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  <row Id="1" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:30:14.687" Score="25" ViewCount="1335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking around for some paper for watercolour painting. Watercolour paper can be over double the price of sketch paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes watercolour paper better? Should I invest the money, and buy the watercolour paper, or save my money and take a chance on the cheaper option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T19:26:38.457" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T09:33:01.950" Title="What are the advantages of watercolour paper over sketch paper?" Tags="|paper|watercolor|sketching|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="69" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:30:40.023" Score="19" ViewCount="8647" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking to sew a piece of fabric, what factors are looked at to determine the correct stitch length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T03:23:25.067" Title="How do you choose a stitch length when straight stitching an arbitrary fabric?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:32:04.370" Score="23" ViewCount="7326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do amateur make up for a local theater group. We have a few of our actors and extras that have latex allergies. Generally I simply avoid using prosthetics on them since I do not have a good solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are good options for people that can not tolerate liquid latex?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T14:25:52.273" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T14:25:52.273" Title="I have a model with a latex allergy: what are my other options?" Tags="|safety|makeup|allergies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="273" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:33:38.370" Score="14" ViewCount="5364" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular coating that I should be using to protect a watercolor painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what is the best storage option for preserving paintings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-06T08:13:37.647" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T08:13:37.647" Title="How to protect &amp; preserve water color paintings" Tags="|preservation|watercolor|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:35:09.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That really depends on the paper itself. Usually, sketch paper will be too thin for watercolors to come out in a satisfactory manner. That being said, it all depends on what your final outcome is. Where the piece will be displayed, and what effects you are trying to get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:35:09.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:36:24.183" Score="12" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when applying the final varnish on a miniature, it ends up going opaque / frosting.  What causes this to happen, and how can it be prevented?  I have seen this occur with both Vallejo and Liquitex gloss varnish, while using a brush to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:05:33.577" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T02:05:33.577" Title="What causes frosting when applying a varnish?" Tags="|preservation|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:40:33.463" Score="14" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knitting needles are available in wooden, metal and plastic materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are certain needles more forgiving of mistakes? Does the material itself have any effect on the process or product, besides just how it feels in your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one has an impact on technique, please help me understand how it impacts it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="63" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T13:57:56.480" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T10:03:20.800" Title="Does knitting needle material make a difference in knitting?" Tags="|knitting|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:47:52.667" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The theory behind stitch length is pretty straight forward. The shorter the stitches, the more will be packed into each inch of stitching, creating a tighter seam. The longer the stitches, the fewer within each inch, therefore, the looser the seam. Short equals tight; long equals loose. Another way to think about it is: short equals stronger and permanent, long equals weaker and temporary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/setting-stitch-length-quick-look-how-and-why&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; very helpful in understanding the basics of choosing stitch length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T01:45:32.237" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T01:45:32.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:48:57.450" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watercolor paper is, normally, quite a bit heavier and made from cotton. Basic watercolor paper, 140lb, is okay for practice and will tend to buckle unless stretched. The expensive 300lb paper is where professionals tend to land. In any case, the paint pools and absorbs differently than normal paper, and gives you options around blending, washes, etc. that you can't otherwise get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional paper, made from wood fibers, is much thinner and absorbs the pigment faster, will generally buckle and warp rapidly and is much more likely to rip and tear when wet. It's just not designed for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any event, sheet watercolor paper can be had and you can always cut it into smaller sizes for practice, which is pretty common anyways. The cheaper option will only frustrate and disappoint, it's already a challenging medium, don't make it hard on yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:48:57.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:55:23.340" Score="17" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different products to finish your projects with. What types are food safe and what should one look out for when finishing a project that needs to be food safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T02:54:59.647" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T02:54:59.647" Title="What are food safe finishes for woodworking projects, e.g. turned bowls?" Tags="|woodworking|food-safe|finishing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="679" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:56:08.690" Score="20" ViewCount="1229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally use the Faber-Castell Colored Pencils, which are vegetable oil based, but I also use PrismaColor Premier from time to time. I normally use Odorless Mineral Spirits to blend, but it is a toxic substance and so not something I normally want to travel with. What are some other possibilities for blending that can be used, especially for those that want to work on their art when traveling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T11:11:42.357" Title="What are good options in colored pencil blending, especially for a traveller?" Tags="|blending|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:59:23.937" Score="42" ViewCount="33052" Body="&lt;p&gt;When papercutting, one often has to cut very small circles, like below. When I do that, I often break my blade. How should I cut small circles or other small holes? Think about ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I apply pressure or not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I only turn the knife on its place or really move it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I hold the knife vertically or diagonally on the paper?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VkYIP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T07:49:43.943" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T22:26:59.277" Title="How to cut a tiny circle in paper?" Tags="|paper|papercutting|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:06:04.823" Score="4" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's grandmother is a locally celebrated artist.  She recently was forced to move to a retirement home and she has gifted us with several of her original works.  They are mostly watercolor on some sort of high quality paper, along with a few Acrylic on Canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I doubt these works will ever become highly valuable like a Warhol or Dali, they are very beautiful and are incredibly meaningful to my wife and I.  I would like to protect them and be able to pass them on to family in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to have them professionally matted and framed(probably at Michaels) but is there any thing I should do or have done to them first?  I do not think that the artist did anything to preserve them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T20:06:04.823" Title="What needs to be done to original art before having it framed" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-27T10:11:24.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:22:22.777" Score="9" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use a variety of pens, nibs and papers and want a general all-round ink I can use for all (or most) of these cases. From a beginners perspective—which calligraphy inks would be easiest to work with in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I am looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal or no preparation of the ink (no need to dilute the ink, for example).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ink doesn't clot or dry too quickly (mid-use or in the bottle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An even spread of ink on paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No excessive running or bleeding of ink on paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to clean pens, nibs, spills etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want is to be able to focus on the calligraphy, not if my ink is clogging up my pen, wether I need to dilute my bottle some more or if the ink is going to soak through my paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are dye-based inks and pigment-based inks, apart from differences in specific brands what features should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T20:58:54.587" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T19:09:55.983" Title="As a calligraphy beginner, what features should I look for in an ink?" Tags="|calligraphy|ink|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:26:19.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started knitting last winter, and have since made about a million hats. In my experience, wooden/bamboo knitting needles are great for beginners because they are not quite as a smooth and slick as metal knitting needles. Metal knitting needles allow you to knit faster, but also make it easier to drop stitches. Additionally, both wooden/bamboo and plastic knitting needles are less expensive than metal knitting needles, allowing you to try out a variety of sizes and types (DPNs, circular, traditional) without breaking the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T10:03:20.800" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T10:03:20.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:33:28.853" Score="35" ViewCount="80652" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my projects, I often wish to affix a piece of paper to a more rigid material, like cardboard, and to do so using relatively large sheets of paper (say, around a square foot or two). However, I find that it is very difficult to get the paper to lay flat after placing glue on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there specific types of adhesives or techniques for applying glue that minimize the amount of wrinkling caused?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the wrinkles are caused by the paper expanding when it is exposed to moisture. Thus, I've tried to minimize the amount of glue I use, as well as tried letting the paper sit for a bit with the glue before placing in against the other surface to give an opportunity to expand beforehand, but still haven't gotten a good result. I've tried using wallpaper paste, PVA glue, and wood glue for this purpose, but the results seem very similar with each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T23:21:12.840" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T20:34:42.863" Title="How can paper be glued to cardboard without creating wrinkles?" Tags="|paper|adhesives|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:41:56.003" Score="14" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in 2014, I made a &quot;wand&quot; out of a wooden dowel, and some glue gun glue for the handle. The &quot;wand&quot; part was a single pre-made colour, but for the handle, I mixed together a few different colours to create a nice brown-ish colour. Once I was satisfied, I began to happily paint the handle, unaware that I had not mixed enough of the colour. Once I began to run out, I attempted to re-mix the colours in roughly the same ratio as best I could remember, but obviously it wasn't exact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up having to do this at least twice, as far as I remember. I managed to get the colour pretty close, almost indistinguishable, but by the third time, I simply mixed a massive amount and painted over what I had already done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this was not the end of the world, it dawned on me that there must be a better way than simply eyeballing amounts and relying on memory to determine ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would a more experienced crafter/painter ensure that, if they needed to mix a new batch of a custom colour, they mixed colours in the proper ratios each time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T23:37:24.347" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T23:37:24.347" Title="When mixing paint colours, what is a good technique for ensuring consistent ratios each time a new batch needs to be created?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:47:27.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Items that when ready for normal use will not have a toxic residue that could affect someone using it to prepare or eat food or drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:34:41.047" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:34:41.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:47:27.150" Score="0" Body="Selecting and using materials that are safe for use around food without introducing foodborne illnesses or other non-indigestible chemicals." OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T11:34:17.177" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T11:34:17.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:50:13.233" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small project where I make name blocks for kids. I basically glue some paper to a painted 2x4 (craft paper, wallpaper samples... I reuse what ever I find). I had a similar problem. No matter what paper I was using. My process involves using Mod Podge as my adhesive agent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do now to try and stop the wrinkles is hang the paper from a line or string and use an acrylic spray to stiffen the paper. One light coat on both sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when I glue that to my block it doesn't buckle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T04:51:03.810" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T04:51:03.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:51:42.587" Score="17" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the winter I'm big on making detailed,  six-sided paper snowflakes. I use crafting knife to cut everything out. Usually I use printer paper or origami paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue is when cutting inside angles.  If the cut isn't exact, I have to either tear out the piece and get those fiber tufts, or I have to cut slightly beyond the design (which causes other issues). I have the problem when I begin the last cut from the corner, or end it in that corner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to use fresh blades, which doesn't help. I try to remove the tufts with the knives, but they just bend or pull. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I prevent the tufts without affecting my design, or, failing that, completely remove them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T15:24:36.420" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T04:11:42.390" Title="How to prevent &quot;tufts&quot; in paper when cutting fine details?" Tags="|paper|papercutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:57:10.370" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to know the order of magnitude of your volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I paint miniatures and so milliliters are often enough. In this case my paints are in dropper bottles and I count the droplets I add to the mix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bigger volumes I would use a transparent bottle and make a level mark for each colour I add. So next time the marks could be reused in the same bottle to get the same ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="70" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T21:20:10.123" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T21:20:10.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="166" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:57:32.040" Score="25" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few calligraphy kits, with an assortment of some 20 nibs among them. I believe most are Manuscript brand. They all take the cartridges, and are not dip pens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of the box, none of them are laying down ink evenly for the full width of the nib. They also stop and stutter often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried new inks, different types of paper, cleaning the nibs, and even attempting to bend the tips of my duplicate nibs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I troubleshoot why the nibs don't work, and go about fixing the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As requested, here are some examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before cleaning. I did some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/combatting-inkflow-problems-with-your-calligraphy-.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;flow&quot; techniques I read&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3nj2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3nj2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is after cleaning. Cleaning took a considerable amount of time. I finished with an acetone bath/scrub. The paper here is different, but the results were the same on all paper.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPOf3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPOf3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have more success with perfect verticals, applying an even but firm pressure and keeping the nib perfectly level. But, even then I'll have swaths where there's 0 ink flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found a single nib yet that's working proper, and most are completely unused due to frustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set the pen down for a few minutes, it stops working completely until I spend a minute doing the flow techniques again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T00:44:13.507" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T22:26:11.090" Title="Calligraphy pens not laying ink evenly" Tags="|calligraphy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2016-04-26T20:59:47.617" Score="31" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Punch it&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the size of the holes you are doing this might not seem like useful advice but I would bet that this is what the artist in the picture did, as those are not perfect circles. Outside of this you could use a small punch to get a perfect circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ACxj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ACxj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;small punches&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you get that to work is put a lot of paper (or some other thick material) underneath so that the &quot;work&quot; paper will be less likely to tear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;For larger holes or if punches are not available&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you need to do that feels comfortable so that you can do &lt;strong&gt;one continuous cut&lt;/strong&gt;. As with all cutting make sure you are using tools that are sharp!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I only turn the knife on its place or really move it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the work stationary for me is a problem especially for circles, as you are moving your wrist and arm around more, which could put strain (cramping from repetition) on you faster (which in turn is asking for small mistakes). This can also reduce your control of the cut. I am in favour of moving both the work and your hand at the same time. I find this makes the motions easier and they take less time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I hold the knife vertically or diagonally on the paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the cut would naturally be at a slight angle with what I am describing, I would try to avoid doing so and try to cut as vertically as possible. Cutting on a diagonal can weaken the edges of the cuts making more susceptible to damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is definitely important to try and do the cut in one pass. Hesitation or multiple cuts can create nibs or stray fibers. This is fixable of course but you have to remove more material which can affect the shape. However if done right corrections like that can be hidden as most people won't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I apply pressure or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure of the best answer to this other than not too much. You want the knife to do the work. As long as your tool is sharp you should not have to put too much force into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="29" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T01:20:11.523" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T01:20:11.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:02:57.577" Score="15" ViewCount="11651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several types of action figures that need minor repairs (small details broken off) and major repairs (limbs broken). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these parts are soft, flexible plastic, some hard, and some are right on pressure/articulation points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I go about deciding which type of adhesive, bonding agent or sculpting material would be best suited for repairs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:47:14.903" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T17:47:14.903" Title="How do I choose which adhesive or material to repair action figures?" Tags="|adhesives|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="41" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:05:25.667" Score="14" ViewCount="24259" Body="&lt;p&gt;My roommate is a bit of a pack rat and has several old TV and computer monitor boxes with Styrofoam supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of cutting the Styrofoam into little &amp;quot;bricks&amp;quot; and building a small house out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick or special tool to make clean cuts without making a mess of little Styrofoam bits everywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-26T21:53:02.607" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T21:53:02.607" Title="Is there a way to cleanly cut Styrofoam?" Tags="|styrofoam|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:11:13.823" Score="10" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All the liquid calligraphy inks I know of are ready to use, no dilution required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pigmented ink must be well mixed before use for the pigment to be uniformly dispersed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I find acrylic ink sometimes hard to remove from the nibs if not immediately cleaned&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Iron Gall ink flows well and is a pleasure to use but requires an acid free paper. The ink will look very clear at first but will darken when drying.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;India Ink (what's called 'encre de chine' in French) is probably the easiest to find and to use. A good one size fits all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chinese calligraphy sometimes uses solid ink stock which is diluted in water on an ink stone. It's OK for brush painting but not easily usable in pens and nibs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For pens the main factor is what can you put in them. If it's a cartridge system you're more or less limited to what is available in those. (I have seen refillable cartridges before, but they looked like a mess to fill.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T20:44:54.220" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:44:54.220" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:15:15.990" Score="10" ViewCount="2137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an issue that I've always faced when trying to cut something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, when cutting a piece of paper with scissors, it goes on well. I cut a straight line. When I have to change the direction of the line, it becomes difficult. Often, I'm not able to continue the line perfectly, as I now have this &quot;Y&quot; shaped cut with one that just finishes. Here's an image to demonstrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While cutting: I'm changing the direction of the cut here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/62PAU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/62PAU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Changing direction on the line&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the cut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAPIQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAPIQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After the cut that is somewhat &amp;quot;Y&amp;quot; shaped&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to stop these &quot;Y&quot;s? Any tips or techniques to prevent that, or stop it altogether? I'm hoping not to bend the paper just to get the end if I don't have to as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T02:09:44.717" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T02:09:44.717" Title="How can I cleanly cut the inside of a paper on a different angle?" Tags="|paper|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:15:55.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An X-Acto knife is probably going to be your best bet for the least cleanup of loose Styrofoam. Cut firmly but not so deep as to tear the Styrofoam.  Basically just the tip each pass and make multiple passes. It will be slow and tedious, but if you do it right, it won't be messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzgJc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzgJc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;X-Acto Knife&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A faster method is to use a scroll saw with a vacuum attachment. This will create more pieces of Styrofoam but most of them should end up in the vacuum receptacle, reducing the amount of clean up. This will be a lot faster at the cost of a bit more clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFtJ3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFtJ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scroll saw on a workbench&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2022-10-26T14:11:33.093" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T14:11:33.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:16:38.467" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;A big factor to this would be to make sure your cuts are straight and not at an angle. If your cuts meet on top but are not completely vertical then a tuft would appear on the bottom of the paper, for example. This can be hard to work with since the blade of a craft knife is already at an angle. This leads into one possible solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you are willing to get away with as far as quality or experience, one surefire way to try and address this is to over-cut your lines just a bit. When trying to meet at an edge or a corner it sounds like you are coming a bit short. That is what is creating the tufts. If you over-cut the line just a bit that should account for that and make the corner or edge clean. Problem with this approach is if done wrong you can cut too far in which can ruin the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't even have to do it too much. Just enough to account for my first paragraph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure you are already doing this but for the sake of completeness your cutting surface plays a role here. Something simple like a self healing cutting mat will help prevent your paper from moving too much. Sometimes changes in hand pressure can move the paper enough that it starts to pull away from the cut line. A proper mat should help immobilize the work more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Usually I use printer paper or origami paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the best advice, as it could be tedious to consider, but common computer/printer paper has a grain direction. If you look at a common 8 1/2 x 11 you should see that the fibers are lined up from top to bottom. You can also &quot;feel&quot; this when you bow the paper in opposite directions. Folding it from top to bottom has a little more resistance that it does from the left and right sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point being if you are making cuts it is that second cut that will be an issue. If you can make it so the second cut is the one that cross the grain of the paper it is less likely to tear off. Holding the paper behind the cut can also help mitigate this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut out a lot of names printed from fancy fonts and this happens to me as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="29" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T02:11:18.350" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T02:11:18.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="684" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:20:45.673" Score="15" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to compare the &lt;strong&gt;durability&lt;/strong&gt; of different methods for designing T-shirts (printing/drawing), where I would like to restrict myself to print methods that can be achieved at home (with a little practice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T-shirt marker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat transfer foil (single colour)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screen-printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T-shirt paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ink-jet printed &quot;T-shirt transfer film&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these (e.g. screen-printing) will allow very detailed designs, some of these will have very sharp edges (foil), others will have to be drawn free-hand. For the purpose of this question I ignore these differences and would like to ask only about durability of the paint for a number of wash cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After many wash cycles, the ink will fade or become brittle and break. Which method lasts the longest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T12:20:13.307" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T17:04:14.913" Title="Durable T-shirt design methods" Tags="|clothing|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:22:33.767" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using scissors, as you have pictured, would be a contributing factor here. Using a craft knife or something similar would most certainly be the go-to tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to try to do the cutting in one motion - to not lift the blade from the paper and, if possible, not change the pressure you are exerting on the scissors. So if you were cutting this on a mat (without scissors of course), when you need to change direction you can rotate the paper accordingly. Craft knives have fine points so turning it is not likely to damage too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the specific Y, using a craft knife, I would also consider the starting point of the cuts to be the intersection shown and then cut away from that point. That approach is more case-by-case and really is dependent on your overall design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on using scissors, the only tip I have to offer is to try and keep cutting as you are turning the paper. Try and finish the whole cut in one motion of the scissors. That would help stop the start of a tear. Hands and the tool itself can make that hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T03:57:43.540" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T03:57:43.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:26:17.703" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What system are you using? Airbrush or bottle spray?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have experienced a lot of frosting when applying varnish in humid environments. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have observed more frosting with spray bottles compared to airbrush (I dilute the varnish for airbrushing with Vallejo airbrush thinner).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only apply a very thin layer of varnish at a time. I have observed frosting when I put too much varnish at once, especially with spray bottles. If more is needed, several thin layers may be applied.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="29" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T10:26:31.837" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T10:26:31.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:38:26.030" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really does depend on how big the circle is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;For tiny circles&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend not using the knife at all. Find a pair of compasses (or, in a pinch, a dried-up pen or sharp pencil will do), and use that to punch a hole in the paper. Of course, you can also use the knife in much the same way, by poking the hole with the tip of the knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this solution is for &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt; circles, i.e. less than a millimetre's diameter. You will more often need a solution...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;For slightly bigger circles&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can fold the paper at all, a hole punch is a good solution (yes, I know I'm cheating). Use it to punch half a hole, and when you open the paper back out you have one complete hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to use the knife for this, you can - I tend to keep the knife still and move the paper, as I find it gives me more precise control over where exactly the cut is made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T21:42:31.170" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T21:42:31.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="36" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:46:30.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will probably work well for decently-small sized holes that are around 2 mm in diameter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cu1TO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cu1TO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hole Puncher - Normally used for paper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These things can be pretty useful. You often see them in paper cutting three of them at a time, so you can put them into your binders and duo tangs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got a decent quality hole punch, you should be able to make clean cut holes without any bending - and there you have it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastEditorUserId="58" LastEditDate="2016-11-16T23:58:01.033" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T23:58:01.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="37" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26" CreationDate="2016-04-26T21:59:49.957" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what you want out of the repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for longevity and quality of repair, an &lt;strong&gt;epoxy&lt;/strong&gt; (resin) is your best bet. They tend to create the best seams and are difficult to break. The downside of these is that you get one shot - getting it wrong quite often either gets the parts stuck in the wrong place, or you very messy. Some epoxy glues also require mixing of two ingredients, which is definitely messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For quick-and-dirty repairs, it can be better to use superglue (&lt;strong&gt;acrylate&lt;/strong&gt;-based glues). This takes longer to set, in general, and won't last as long, but can be useful for repairs that won't see much stress or that don't matter too much. Be aware that you can't use superglue on all materials - notably, acrylic won't take well to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Information from my own knowledge, supplemented by the information available &lt;a href=&quot;http://info.craftechind.com/blog/bid/323475/Stick-to-it-A-Guide-to-the-Best-Glue-for-Plastic&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T21:59:49.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="38" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:15:09.593" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you removed the protective (oil) coating of your nibs? Some people burn their nibs (over a candle, for example), but doing this they also re-temper the metal of the nib. (Don't do this if your nib is attached to plastic, of course.) I'd recommend to remove the coating with a Q-tip soaked in nail polish remover (acetone) (you can even try lemon/lime juice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some reviews of Manuscript calligraphy kits are pretty bad. If nothing works, maybe try a better nib (e.g. Brause dip nibs with Indian ink).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T22:15:09.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="39" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="73" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:18:18.463" Score="15" ViewCount="1648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am painting in oils, and I normally paint on cotton canvas. I've often wondered what the difference is between cotton and linen canvases - linen canvases appear to have a slightly different texture, but is there anything else that differentiates them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T00:03:05.797" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T18:55:40.197" Title="What is the difference between linen and cotton canvas?" Tags="|painting|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="40" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:23:32.870" Score="9" ViewCount="3883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I paint with Winton oil paints, and I usually 'work back' into a layer of paint after a couple of days, using a bit of white spirit to do so. How long do I have before the oil paint dries to the point that this is no longer possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T16:32:44.560" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T16:09:31.197" Title="For how long can oil paint be worked into?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="41" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:24:14.817" Score="16" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick or special tool to make clean cuts without making a mess of little Styrofoam bits everywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's called &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot-wire_foam_cutter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hot-wire (foam) cutter&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; which can be bought starting at prices of about $20, or you can also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hot+wire+foam+cutter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;make one yourself&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/02/Styrofoam_Cutter_crop_color.JPG/320px-Styrofoam_Cutter_crop_color.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;foam cutter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot wire melts the Styrofoam, releasing toxic fumes (styrene), so it's best to use it in a well-aerated room or outside. (See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.terragenesis.com/infopages/page173.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; for more safety advice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will work on Styrofoam, but probably not very well on soft foams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-26T21:51:45.540" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T21:51:45.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="42" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:24:18.710" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question cannot really be answered.  And the answer to why is both easy and complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: Start with one kind of needles, it doesn't really matter which kind, preferably one you can borrow, or some cheap ones, and decide after that if it feels right or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like someone already said, knitting needles are made of many different materials, the most common are wood/bamboo, metal and plastic.  But you will find other kinds if you look, like carbon, ivory, bone...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood/bamboo needles are usually less smooth and slick, it means that the yarn is less likely to fall of them by accident (their smoothness are relative to how fine their varnish is and has been polished);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal needles are very smooth and slick, which means the yarn slides more easily on them, and can be more sharp at the end (because metal can be shaped more easily and is much harder);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic are about between wood and metal in smoothness;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon needles are quite smooth, they usually have metal tips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find whole sets of wooden knitting needles for less than $5. They are fine for beginners, mostly because they are cheap, and will give you an idea of what you like and dislike in needles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; love knitting with metal needles, because they can be more sharp, which helps a lot for fine lace work, and the yarn slides more smoothly on them and you can knit faster. A good friend of mine hates metal needles because they are cold and it hurts her fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But all of this does not really matter. A beginner needs to begin, so, a beginner will get a ball of yarn, and read the label to know what size of needles they need for this. They will then get a pair of needles of that size and learn how to do a slip knot, a knit stitch, a purl stitch, and they will be on their way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as per why this does not really matter, well, &lt;strong&gt;everyone knits differently&lt;/strong&gt;. I see it in every class I teach. I always have all my students do the same thing: cast on 15 stitches, do a few rows of knit stitch (which is called garter stitch), and then alternate knit rows and purl rows (giving you stockinette), and while they are all doing the same number of stitches, and rows, their little knitted pieces are all of different sizes. This is because we all hold our needles and yarn differently, we all have a different tension on the yarn, and in the end, our stitches are not all of the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A loose knitter will not be able to knit using metal needles because the stitches will keep falling off, since their knitting is very loose. They will often prefer wooden needles, because they are less smooth, and the stitches are less likely to fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tight knitter, on the other hand, will have a hard time using wooden needles because the stitches will not want to move easily on the needles, and they will be forced to slide their stitches so that they can continue knitting. They will most likely prefer metal or carbon needles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T10:02:01.803" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T10:02:01.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:25:26.437" Score="8" ViewCount="1152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of several methods of joining a new ball of yarn, but I have trouble with some long-repeat colored yarns available as singles, be it thin ones like Amitola or even thick ones like Schoppel Reggae. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knots show up, especially in lace or reversible knits. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russian, braided, etc. joins require at least two strands of yarn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Spit and rub&quot; is the traditional method for lace, but only works with feltable yarns. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;taking the two ends together has never worked well for me. The ends slide against each other, creating too small an overlap, and the overlap knits up really thick and noticeable. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leaving a tail and weaving in the ends works somewhat, but the stitches around the change become very loose, and the weaved ends are visible in some kinds of knitting (lace, rib). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I am missing? How can I join the yarn invisibly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastActivityDate="2023-04-28T02:13:25.220" Title="How to invisibly join superwash singles yarn?" Tags="|knitting|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="45" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2129" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:25:41.103" Score="4" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to put some gold stars on the ceiling of my bathroom using a gold-leaf-like material. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cassart.co.uk/craft/craft_accessories/gilding/gedeo_gilding_paste_75ml.htm?nosto=productpage-nosto-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gilding paste&lt;/a&gt; that is recommended for it is water soluble, and I'm worried that after applying the stars they will not survive in the damp environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it be ok? Is there another substance I can use if not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T20:54:16.817" Title="Can gold/replacement leaf be water/damp proof?" Tags="|gold-leaf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="46" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="54" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:31:34.667" Score="19" ViewCount="2139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Winton oil paint that I get for £8 for a 200ml tube (for any colour). Some tubes from other ranges (from the same shop) cost up to £160 for a tube the same size - and there is different pricing for different colours. There are several different ranges in between at different prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why the huge disparity in pricing for paint, and what do you get in the more expensive ranges that you don't in the cheap stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T15:08:37.583" Title="What is the difference between cheaper oil paints and more expensive ones?" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="47" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="53" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:37:11.837" Score="16" ViewCount="3201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy pre-made canvases, and they always come with a little packet of wooden things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZgJ3J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZgJ3J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Canvas wooden things&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are they for? How should I use them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T04:00:16.910" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:45:32.793" Title="What are the little pieces of wood that come with pre-made canvas for?" Tags="|painting|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="48" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="63" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:39:15.690" Score="16" ViewCount="12356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was drawing onto my primed canvas in pencil, in preparation to paint over the top in oils, but a friend told me that I shouldn't do that, since over time the graphite will rise to the surface of the painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I use instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T09:29:29.097" LastActivityDate="2021-02-17T15:33:48.813" Title="What should I use to draw under oil paint?" Tags="|oil-paint|drawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="49" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:40:25.697" Score="9" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some small pieces of Australian lightning ridge opal I'd like to make into cabochons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, I'd use jeweler's wax from my electronic dop pot, but I've heard that opal is very heat sensitive, and can very quickly lose play of color if it overheats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use black dop wax, which I think has a lower melting point, is it safe to use on the opal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a safer way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T01:08:10.777" Title="How can I dop opal for cabbing?" Tags="|lapidary|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="50" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:49:05.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Superwash single is a somewhat tough one, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In those case, I usually start ten or so stitches before I change the yarn, I use the same technique as when doing jacquard to have the new yarn follow in the back of the work, I knit one stitch with both yarns, and knitting with the new yarn, I have the old yarn follow the stitches on the back for like ten stitches.&#xA;On the next row, I try to have the loose yarn follow on the back, so that it holds more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T22:49:05.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="51" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:55:13.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many adhesives will work on plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With toys and things like this you first want to consider the age of people handling them.  If a child will chew on it, be sure to avoid resins that are known to be toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid superglue and low-surface-tension adhesives.  &quot;low surface tension&quot; means that it slips down into cracks easy.  Sometimes people call this a &quot;thin&quot; liquid.  It causes the liquid to 'wet' surfaces easily.. meaning that it runs into new areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to avoid superglue because it is more likely to 'leak' outside of the surfaces that you want to adhere.  It does this because it 'wets' surfaces easily.  When superglue does this, it can cause two main issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;superglue is usually shiny when dry, and will probably be a different shininess than the thing you repaired.   This makes the glue very visible when you look at the action figure, and it will reduce your enjoyment of it.  If you're trying to sell the action figure, it will lower its value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the thing that is being repaired may stick to the table or paper towel where you left it to dry / set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use an epoxy that is thicker, this will prevent the wetting.  Some epoxies come with a thickening agent.  Do not add your own 'thickening agent' thinking that it will get the results you want — thickening agents that come with the kit have specially formulated chemistry.  You may only be left with a bigger mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test on other plastics in order to confirm it will work the way you want.  You can always take a scrap from something you're throwing out, or find around a trash site — break it, and then try to repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T22:55:13.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="52" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="49" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:04:31.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opals from the Lightning Ridge area of Australian are known for being very high-water-content.  Unfortunately, this makes them the most susceptible to heat cracking and related damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger is not just in color loss — you can crack or crumble stones from this region much more easily than opal from other regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read the same in &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=vGewAkLkmvIC&amp;amp;pg=PA12&amp;amp;lpg=PA12&amp;amp;dq=opal%20heat%20sensitivity%20temperature%20range&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=Lc3pkls5kr&amp;amp;sig=_y6oT9ta2o7HgKaifTD3k6QzbqM&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwimiYm3s63MAhXDaT4KHSbOAt8Q6AEIMjAD#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=opal%20heat%20sensitivity%20temperature%20range&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eckert's &quot;World of Opals&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to make a business decision regarding how much of your inventory you can practice on, in order to learn how to work opal from this region.  How much can you lose before the cost is identical to selling your inventory to someone who has practice cutting, and buy pre-cut from them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T23:04:31.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="53" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="47" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:13:34.223" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://painting.about.com/od/paintingforbeginners/a/canvaskeys.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;canvas keys&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The are shimmed into the corners of the canvas to maintain the tautness of the canvas.  This generally happens only on machine-assembled frames, or on mass-produced frames that have low-quality inspection standards (for cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T22:45:32.793" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:45:32.793" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="54" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:17:04.583" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many things that can set apart great paints from others:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;working-qualities of the oil &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;specific source of the oil &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chemical pigments &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pure-mineral pigments &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;colorfastness of the pigments &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;metals in the pigment &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;consistency of pigment grain-size &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pigment density / fillers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these can mean different things to the rest of the materials you will use in producing your painting, which is a bit beyond the scope of this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T23:17:04.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="55" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:40:38.150" Score="6" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never made doublets before, but I'd like to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that I don't have a flat lap.  I only have a trim saw, and a 6-wheel Diamond Pacific Genie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to attach the dome to a backing without using a flat lap to grind them smooth?  If so, how do I ensure a proper fit before applying the epoxy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be able to use a variety of materials for the doublets, ranging from very soft (like opal) to hard (like agates) (e.g. opal with quartz domes, plume agates with turquoise backings, etc.).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T14:09:06.730" Title="Can I make doublets with a Genie and a trim saw?" Tags="|lapidary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="56" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:44:39.040" Score="6" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to learn flint knapping, and I keep seeing references to abrading the edge while working the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of doing this?  How do I know when an edge should be abraded, and how do I know when I have abraded it sufficiently to go back to pressure flaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T11:58:11.453" Title="What is the purpose of an abrader in flint knapping?" Tags="|lapidary|knapping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="57" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:46:56.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/stones&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;stones&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;stones&lt;/a&gt; - Use this tag when your question is about the use, selection, cleaning, or handling of all kinds of natural stones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/jewelry&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;jewelry&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;jewelry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T13:27:49.027" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T13:27:49.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="58" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:46:56.650" Score="0" Body="Cutting, shaping, setting, polishing, or otherwise working with stones, gems, glass, or other minerals." OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T01:45:19.987" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T01:45:19.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="59" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:47:54.650" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T23:47:54.650" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T23:47:54.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="60" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:47:54.650" Score="0" Body="Working flint, chert, obsidian, and other knappable materials into tools or artistic forms" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T01:45:16.330" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T01:45:16.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="61" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6391" CreationDate="2016-04-26T23:50:19.573" Score="9" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some rough flowering tube onyx.  The material is beautiful, with fantastic patterns, and I'd like to slab it and cab it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, like most specimens of this type, the material has a lot of fractures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is an effective way to stabilize the material for slabbing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T02:45:50.470" Title="How can I stabilize flowering tube onyx?" Tags="|lapidary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="62" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="165" CreationDate="2016-04-27T00:00:43.600" Score="15" ViewCount="22324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watercolor paper comes in various weights and the lighter variants can buckle (also known as cockling) when they get wet. How can I prevent or reduce this from happening? Is there a preferred technique or should I just buy the really heavy paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T13:58:34.637" LastActivityDate="2021-06-13T19:36:40.857" Title="How can I prevent watercolor paper from buckling?" Tags="|paper|watercolor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="63" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2016-04-27T00:04:37.977" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If using graphite make sure to spray a few coats of fixative over the graphite drawing prior to painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What should I use instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;charcoal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water color pencils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diluted ink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T00:04:37.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="64" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2016-04-27T00:09:19.620" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you can use graphite or charcoal pencils for drawing on canvas, but they should be sealed with a fixative or a very thin layer of gesso before applying oil over top of them. That will prevent any bleed as a result of blending with the paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to do that, then I would use paint, just very thin (thinned with thinner) and fine. Mind you, it's not the same feel as using a pencil, but then you also don't have the worry about layering on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T00:09:19.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="65" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="207" CreationDate="2016-04-27T00:10:59.187" Score="11" ViewCount="3027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a deep blue sky and a bright yellow sunset setting over a nature scene, but when painting in the yellow sunset and fading it to the blue sky I end up with a lot of bold greens that are noticeably out of place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you fade colors without getting the combined color? I'd like to fade a yellow to a blue without getting green in the middle. I assume the concept would apply to any two colors, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not be the best example image, but here you see very bold blues, and very bold yellows without mixing into a bold forest green anywhere in the sky.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3C8Bg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3C8Bg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T12:59:49.067" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T12:42:51.913" Title="How do you fade one color to another with oil paint without getting the mixed color?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="66" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T01:15:27.290" Score="10" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm used to crocheting with worsted weight yarn, mostly making amigurumi and stuffed animals. So, when I picked up a ball of fuzzy yarn to make a zebra mane a while ago, I really struggled to find my stitches in the mess of threads. I couldn't see them and I while I could feel them, I had a hard time getting the right loops to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to better see what I'm doing, instead of crocheting half-blindly and taking forever to follow a simple pattern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T16:34:55.540" LastActivityDate="2023-04-28T10:15:30.547" Title="How can I keep track of my stitches when crocheting with fuzzy yarn?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="68" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2016-04-27T02:31:24.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000XAHF7S&quot;&gt;Glue Tape&lt;/a&gt; it is not really wet like standard glue its more of a thin gel strip.  This works wonderfully.  If you have to glue a large number and in a huge area this is probably not cost effective but if you are just doing a few and don't really need a lot of adhesive this is the crafter's sliced bread!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your project I suspect it will be perfect.  You can find them anywhere that sells craft supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T02:31:24.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="69" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2016-04-27T02:42:49.327" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-sewing-partner.com/sewing-stitch-adjustments.html&quot;&gt;Stitching lengths:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2mm is the short stitch length that should be used for lightweight&#xA;  fabrics, for satin stitching, and decorative stitching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.5 - 3mm is the average stitch length range that should be used for medium weight fabrics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 - 5mm is the long stitch length range that should be used for&#xA;  basting and topstitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/making-machine-stitches-work-for-you.html&quot;&gt;Stitches for Dummies puts it this way:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The average stitch length for mid-weight fabrics is 2.5 to 3 mm/10 to 12 spi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The average stitch length for fine fabrics is 2 mm/13 to 20 spi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;For heavier fabrics, basting, or topstitching, use 4 to 5 mm/5 to 6 spi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I baste by hand and use a shorter length stitch for strength when necessary. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howcast.com/videos/454064-how-to-select-stitch-length-sewing-lessons/&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; explains where I am coming from! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T22:54:12.030" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T22:54:12.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="70" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T03:02:47.910" Score="8" ViewCount="8674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a class set (I am a teacher) of standard hard bristle paint brushes in a Elmer's white glue and water mixture. Despite washing them numerous times with water and hand soap, they are still rock solid when dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T23:24:05.437" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T23:26:54.713" Title="How can I get dried Elmer's white glue out of hard bristle paint brushes?" Tags="|adhesives|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="71" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="70" CreationDate="2016-04-27T03:38:59.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soaking them in warm/hot water is the common procedure for removing Elmer's glue.  Elmer's glue is specifically water-soluble — so if it isn't coming out then maybe it is not Elmer's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the water is warm/hot throughout the soaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to peel-off the outer layers of glue, first, and then re-soak to loosen the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T03:38:59.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="72" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="70" CreationDate="2016-04-27T03:44:18.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this &lt;a href=&quot;http://elmers.com/about/faqs/clean-up-solutions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; is for the removal of Elmer's Glue from clothing and fabrics, the basic principles can be applied to paint brushes too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to remove glue from clothing and fabric:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When dry, do not use hot water, dry cleaning solvents, a hot drum dryer or iron before the removal of the adhesive is complete, as they can fuse the adhesive film irreversibly, making removal impossible. Soaking in room temperature water for 24 hours or longer will help to redisperse or soften the film. After soaking, wash the fabric in a normal wash cycle and allow it to dry at room temperature. Check for discoloration and stiffness on drying. If so, repeat the process until the item is cleaned to your satisfaction. Watch the video &lt;a href=&quot;http://elmers.com/videos/video/elmers-glue-faq-how-to-remove-elmers-school-glue-and-glue-all-from-clothing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;How to Remove Elmer's Glue and Glue-All from Clothing&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; to learn more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a jar filled with water to put my brushes in when using Elmer's Glue in order to avoid this very problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T23:26:54.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="73" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="39" CreationDate="2016-04-27T04:16:20.377" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/tips-and-techniques/other-tips-and-techniques/difference-between-canvas-and-linen&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Understanding the difference canvas and linen&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Canvas can mean different things to different people. In the context of painting, the word ‘canvas’ means a fabric used as a painting surface. The difference is that sometimes the canvas is made from cotton fibres and other times from linen fibres. Each material is worth looking at in more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Cotton&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cotton is a soft, fluffy fibers that grows in a boll or protective capsule around the seeds of cotton plants. The plant is native to the Americas, Africa and India and is most often spun into yarn or thread to create a soft, breathable textile - the chances are you are wearing some cotton right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The advantage of cotton to you as an artist is that it is affordable and it stretches very easily. A properly prepared cotton canvas will last a long time and is the most popular surface for oil and acrylic painting, especially for students, although it is considered too flexible for very large paintings. It is classified according to its weight and surface texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When it comes to tightness, cotton comes out on top. It is possible to stretch cotton tighter than linen without straining the wooden support around the canvas, and a heavy-grade cotton can make up for its lack of strength and weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Linen&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Linen is strong and durable, and remains the preferred surface for many artists but it is expensive. It is made from the fibers of the flax plant and top quality flax is harvested mainly in Western Europe. If you want your painting to last then a linen canvas is a sound investment. The threads that make up linen, known as the warp and weft threads, weigh the same, which means they are less prone to expansion or contraction due to moisture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Linen retains its natural oils, which helps to preserve the fibre’s flexibility and stops the canvas from going brittle. It is also regarded as having a more ‘natural’ weaved finish than cotton – a variety of textures and weights are available in both rough and smooth finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because of its strength linen holds up to a heavy painting hand and does not become slack as easily as cotton canvas.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="84" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T10:54:49.163" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T10:54:49.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="74" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T04:28:33.260" Score="10" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur when it comes to crocheting. I was making some simple king's crowns for my kids and myself of course. I had planned on making changes to the pattern to adjust for the different sizes however my inconsistency with my stitch sizes made it so that was not a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was following the same pattern without adjusting for size. I ended up with Goldilocks problem as the first one I made too loose and it fit my head. To compensate I made my stitches tighter on my next one. The end result was small enough to fit my 3 year old's head. I then compensated and made one that was in the middle of the two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I made 3 of the same thing I got a decent gauge of what I was doing but if I was making something from a pattern with no concrete concept of the end result I worry that I will make it too tight or too loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any general tips in this regard? At a minimum I will assume it is a matter of experience but perhaps there is more to it. Most of the things I do will be in the size range or 4.5 to 6 if it matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T01:26:42.310" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T10:35:58.147" Title="Are there any tips as to how to set the tightness of my stiches?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="75" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="66" CreationDate="2016-04-27T04:38:01.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;An easy solution is to use stitch markers. There are several commercial options available and DIY ones are conceptually easy as well. Most that you see though won't be particularity useful for amigurumi. In that case I would suggest small safety pins, rings or feed in some floss as you move your rows. Anything you can do to mark where a particular stitch is so that you don't have to remember its location relative to where you are working. I would post a picture but there are too many styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You obviously need to be keeping count of what you are doing so it might be a good idea to at least mark the end of the row with stitch counters or something similar. Your other projects sound small so this might be good enough as long as you don't take breaks in between rows (Every time I do it i forget my numbers and have to pull back and start over). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rows are longer then you could use a stitch counter every 10 stitches for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people are really adverse to using markers and think they are more of a hassle so your mileage may vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T00:53:58.320" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T00:53:58.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="76" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T04:53:58.433" Score="9" ViewCount="22993" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am using Mod Podge as a finish on something small, like 2x4 letter blocks, I apply the adhesive with a paint brush. When it dries, I can clearly see the brush strokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the brush I am using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just something that happens when using Mod Podge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:04:10.873" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T12:18:20.547" Title="What can I do to avoid brush strokes in my Mod Podge?" Tags="|decoupage-glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="77" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="346" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:24:09.253" Score="7" ViewCount="1050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cut these butterflies, and hands out of paper, spread gum on them and sprinkled glitter.&#xA;Then I pasted them on these CDs with Fevicol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQffD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQffD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I did not fold them at all. They were straight the day I made them.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deformation started the next day. I stuck the big hand's finger on wall with a tape&#xA;since that was the one that bent forward the next day. Now, after nearly 5 months all of &#xA;the hands are deeply curved, so are the butterflies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticking them to the wall has the demerit that it makes the craft immobile (I live in a &#xA;rented house).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why did they deform? What all choices do I have now for such future projects?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-09-12T03:56:18.020" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T16:57:50.833" Title="Why have my paper crafts hung on the wall deformed and what can be done to prevent this?" Tags="|paper|preservation|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="79" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="92" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:30:52.583" Score="16" ViewCount="7612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into buying an airbrush for painting miniatures, but one thing I can't figure out is if it's safe to use it inside and if I need to use any protection for breathing if I'm going to spray inside. Do I have to set up some kind of ventilation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint I'm going to spray will be acrylics and a few mediums like varnishes etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="109" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T14:55:23.200" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:55:23.200" Title="Can I use an airbrush inside?" Tags="|airbrush|acrylic-paint|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="80" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="173" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:33:03.643" Score="7" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, I colour a leaf green with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_pastel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oil pastel&lt;/a&gt;. Then I want to spread &#xA;that green colour of the leaf edges, outside. For this, I use my thumb. I put my&#xA;thumb on the leaf edge on the paper and them push my thumb forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works, but it also make my thumb dirty. It also means that I will have to wash my &#xA;thumb with soap every time I want to spread a different colour. &#xA;Also because my thumb is big, I cannot spread colours of small areas effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T16:32:58.547" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T16:32:58.547" Title="Which kind of tool can be used to spread one oil pastel colour over another?" Tags="|oil-pastels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="81" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="103" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:34:44.230" Score="6" ViewCount="1564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into buying an airbrush for miniature painting. For this I need a compressor. I would be using this in the house and would like to do so without the noise disturbing the rest of the family too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with how loud this equipment is, and whether the noise would generally be in the range of other household noises.  People who use an airbrush in the house will have a sense of how loud and disturbing it is, and perhaps have gotten feedback from family members about whether the noise level is objectionable and disruptive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do at least some models have a noise level in a range that is reasonable for use inside without bothering other people?  I'm aiming for a mid level type, and I'm willing to pay some extra for quietness.  I realize that situations differ as to how much noise is bothersome to different people.  But noise levels can be compared to other household appliances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="109" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-06-22T21:13:29.590" LastActivityDate="2022-06-22T21:13:29.590" Title="How much noise does an airbrush compressor make?" Tags="|airbrush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="82" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="153" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:36:13.003" Score="7" ViewCount="9627" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I want to draw a shadow of X. How do I know what should be the EXACT &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size of the shadow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;direction of the shadow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;transparency of the shadow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it all depends on the light source. But how do I &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;calculate&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have to be some formulae and measurements, because every time&#xA;with the same light source in the same position, exactly the same shadow will&#xA;be created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how to calculate the shadow direction, size, and transparency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is about drawing. I intend to draw a shadow of an object on paper.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can assume a simple light source like a candle in your answer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Diagrams will be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T04:03:47.670" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T00:17:01.523" Title="How to calculate the shadow direction, size, and transparency?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="83" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1936" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:37:47.827" Score="9" ViewCount="1926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some fairly expensive brushes (Newton &amp;amp; Windsor series 7 with kolinsky saber). If I use alcohol based paints with these brushes, will they be ruined, or can I just clean them out with turpentine and all will be ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="109" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T19:10:29.577" Title="Will alcohol based paint ruin my brushes?" Tags="|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="84" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="145" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:38:07.047" Score="6" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time it happened was 15 years back, and that time I was in a painting exam.&#xA;That time I didn't dare to do anything for the fear of making it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best course of action when I accidentally get some paint on an existing watercolor painting on a paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While answering, please consider the cases when the painting's paint is already dry, totally wet, and when is it somewhat wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T17:00:05.630" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T17:00:05.630" Title="How to remove paint fallen on an existing watercolor painting with the least damage to the painting?" Tags="|watercolor|preservation|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="85" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="94" CreationDate="2016-04-27T05:47:14.250" Score="9" ViewCount="6093" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paper cutting craft shown here - &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/13/how-to-cut-a-small-circle-in-paper&quot;&gt;How to cut a tiny circle in paper?&lt;/a&gt; does not seem to be done by folding paper (there are no wrinkles). Doesn't seem to come under origami.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I wish to learn that kind of paper cutting art, I wish to know what is that craft called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T06:14:14.770" Title="What is the paper cutting art called which does not involve folding?" Tags="|papercutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="86" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="107" CreationDate="2016-04-27T06:49:12.957" Score="10" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crochet tension is a real problem for me. In order to keep it even I have a very tight stitch meaning I have to go up in hook size to get the correct tension for the piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a technique that I am missing to get a proper consistent tension without being too tight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T14:07:54.510" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T02:13:30.470" Title="What is the technique to get a proper consistent crochet tension without being too tight?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-28T18:13:15.927" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="87" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="144" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:00:45.400" Score="18" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between crochet, knitting, and tunisian crochet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day it seems to me that all three crafts results in similar knitted texture fabrics. What makes the key difference(s) between these crafts, if anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-06-18T15:03:21.753" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T15:03:21.753" Title="What's the difference between crochet, knitting, and tunisian crochet?" Tags="|crocheting|knitting|tunisian-crochet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="88" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:03:48.930" Score="4" ViewCount="7847" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the reasons to choose one fibre over another - are there advantages and disadvantages for each type of fibre? If I have a pattern that specifies wool, is it usually safe to substitute for cotton, or vice versa? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:55:44.083" Title="Fibre choice: Why choose wool, cotton, bamboo, acrylic, etc. when crocheting / knitting? Does it make a difference?" Tags="|yarn|crocheting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-27T17:48:15.370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="89" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="85" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:13:20.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Japanese tradition, Origami is the art to fold (&lt;strong&gt;ori&lt;/strong&gt;) paper (&lt;strong&gt;gami&lt;/strong&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for could be &lt;strong&gt;kirigami&lt;/strong&gt;, the art to cut (&lt;strong&gt;kiri&lt;/strong&gt;) paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% sure that kirigami is what you are looking for because kirigami, from what I know, usually involves folding the paper in two to achieve beautiful 3d images through cutting and folding paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can search kirigami on google to get access to a lot of images, sites and video tutorials and how-to. I have done some kirigami projects in the past: you must be very careful on where you cut, but the results are amazing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user117" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T14:07:35.603" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:07:35.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="90" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="76" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:13:56.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When applying the Mod Podge, use a soft, wide brush and as few brush strokes as possible, as it begins to set quickly. If you can brush it on with only one or two strokes, that is best. Use very thin coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, use a different medium. I think part of the problem is just the Mod Podge itself. I no longer use it because I think it has a haze when it dries. I like to use Delta Ceramcoat Varnish or Annie Howes Glamour Seal. The Glamour Seal can also be used as an adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="114" LastEditorUserId="114" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T07:23:52.640" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T07:23:52.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="91" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:19:34.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good quality patterns, especially for clothes, have information about 'gauge'. These numbers will tell you the tightness that the creator of the pattern intended: how many stitches fit horizontally and vertically in a square of 10x10cm (4x4 inches) or 1x1 inch (2,5x2,5cm). Before you start working on the piece itself, you should crochet a sample: a small piece of fabric using the pattern. When you reach a bit more than 10x10cm in size, measure the gauge of your sample and compare with the pattern. Crocheting a sample is especially useful if the pattern calls for a certain brand of yarn and you want to use a different one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gauge is partly determined by the weight of your yarn and the size of your hook. All yarn skeins should have labels with information on suggested hook size and expected gauge. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; has a table of all commonly used yarn weights descriptions and their adequate hook size and gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gauge information may look for example like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJaZG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJaZG.png&quot; alt=&quot;example from http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/asymmetrical-jacket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Suggested yarn is the brand the creator used, but you should be able to use this pattern with any other Aran weight yarn (checking &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the page mentioned earlier&lt;/a&gt; you can see that it's also called Worsted, 4, medium etc.) and a 6mm hook. Your sample should have 12 stitches horizontally in 10cm (4in), but there is no information on vertical gauge. In this case you can just crochet 4-5 rows of single crochets and check if the tightness is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T07:19:34.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="92" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="79" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:26:50.930" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you would rather use it indoors, that's fine as long as you wear a mask. If you're doing a lot, consider one of the heavy-duty ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ASvxk.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ASvxk.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can generally buy these anywhere you can buy spray paint or airbrush supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that your lungs might not be the only place you don't want paint ending up when you're indoors - cover anything you want to remain paint-free with a cloth!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T07:26:50.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="93" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2016-04-27T07:31:20.483" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/EU-HomeLeisure/Home/ProdInfo/MountingFastening/SprayAdhesives/&quot;&gt;SprayMount&lt;/a&gt;, or similar - it is formulated for exactly this purpose: fixing paper to cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do is place your artwork face down on a piece of newspaper, spray a single, thin coat on the back, then place it onto the cardboard. It dries almost instantly, so there is no wrinkling, while still giving very good, invisible adhesion. There are some varieties which are repositionable/removable too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T07:31:20.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="94" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="85" CreationDate="2016-04-27T08:22:11.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may simply be called papercutting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papercutting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Papercutting&lt;/a&gt; on Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Papercutting or paper cutting is the art of cutting paper designs. The&#xA;  art has evolved uniquely all over the world to adapt to different&#xA;  cultural styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Silhouette can refer to the art of cutting outlines or portraits out&#xA;  of black paper. [...] Contemporary papercutting is also sometimes&#xA;  associated with the art of stenciling, itself being derived from&#xA;  techniques used in graffiti art. The use of hand-cut stencils in&#xA;  graffiti art has received international attention in recent years due&#xA;  in part to the artist Banksy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also more information on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_paper_cutting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chinese paper cutting&lt;/a&gt;, although I can't verify the accuracy of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;[L]ong before the paper was invented... people used thin materials,&#xA;  like leaves, silver foil, silk and even leather, to carve hollowed&#xA;  patterns for beauty. Later, when paper was invented, people realized&#xA;  that this material was easy to cut, store and discard. Thus paper&#xA;  became the major material for them to use, and people habitually&#xA;  called this artistry paper-cutting, or Jianzhi in Chinese.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jewish_paper_cutting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jewish paper cutting&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Jewish paper cutting is a traditional form of Jewish folk art made by&#xA;  cutting figures and sentences in paper or parchment. It is connected&#xA;  with various customs and ceremonies, and associated with holidays and&#xA;  family life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AtzUl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AtzUl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The cover of the family tree book created by Yehudit Shadur&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4nSz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4nSz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chinese papercutting. Paper-cut for Dog Year celebrating.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T08:22:11.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="95" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T08:30:13.847" Score="17" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have inherited a sewing machine from my grandmother and have just started sewing. How do I tell that my machine needs a service? Is there a recommended schedule or some tell-tale sign that it's time for one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user18" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T07:22:03.003" Title="How do I know when my sewing machine needs a service?" Tags="|sewing|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="96" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="62" CreationDate="2016-04-27T10:44:09.023" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When paper gets wet, it expands. Apply wet watercolour to only part of the paper, and only part of the paper will expand, causing the paper to buckle. If there are no constraints on the paper, the paper will dry buckled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This effect will be less noticeable the thicker the paper is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Before you paint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase blocks of paper where every page is attached to the sides, and thus stretches the paper while it dries, causing it to dry pretty flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can achieve the same effect (although less effective) by taping loose sheets to a board with masking tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method is to immerse the paper (should be at least about 180 g/m²) in water completely before painting. This way the paper expands uniformly in all directions and dries pretty flat as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;After you paint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sandwich your paper face down between two layers of cotton fabric and steam-iron your paper (in all directions). Put a board and some weights (heavy books) on to dry. If you look to frame your painting, you will probably want to do this step, regardless how flat the paper dried with the above methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T11:21:28.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="97" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="120" CreationDate="2016-04-27T12:46:55.997" Score="5" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making polymer clay sculptures, I often end up with pieces of varying thickness (e.g. thin at the edges, thick in the middle). How do I select an appropriate baking time to avoid burning delicate details, but still ensuring thicker parts are solidified?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a general formula, or do I have to rely on instinct -- &quot;hmm, it's starting to smell really burnt, I should turn off the oven&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T02:39:49.247" Title="How do I determine optimal bake time for a polymer clay sculpture?" Tags="|polymer-clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="98" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2016-04-27T12:48:44.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/top10qa.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;From the Craft Yarn Council:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Can I substitute one yarn weight for another yarn weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, each project is designed to be made with a specific weight of yarn. Changing the yarn weight will change the size and appearance of the finished project as well as change the amount of yarn required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I substitute different yarn brands of the same yarn weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but be sure to test the “gauge” to make sure that an adjustment is not necessary as you substitute one yarn for another. See question # 8 to learn more about “gauge.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for some of the differences between various yarns this &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_yarns_for_crochet_and_knitting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia link&lt;/a&gt; shows some difference from the various types of yarn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cottons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;All varieties of cotton have a dull finish unless mercerized. Cotton yarn has minimal elasticity unless blended with other fibers. Pure cotton is useful for projects that require structure such as purses and tote bags, placemats, and other utilitarian items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Description&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Egyptian cotton Longest cotton fiber, smoother and softer than other cottons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pima cotton Cross between Egyptian and American cottons. Intermediate properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American cotton Medium-long fiber, readily takes on dye. Available in widest variety of colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other plant fibers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linen Strong fiber, good for warm weather items. Wrinkles easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bamboo bast Similar to ramie, possesses an elegant sheen. Not to be confused with the more common bamboo rayon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Animal based fibers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Description&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Merino wool Softer than cotton, tends to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pill_(textile)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pill.&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Icelandic wool Strong but scratchy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mohair Lofty and luxurious, best used as an outer layer. May feel scratchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cashmere Soft, luxurious, expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alpaca Very warm. Suitable for accessories such as scarves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Angora Very soft, tends to shed. Best used in pure form as an accent material, or blended with other fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silk Exceptionally strong, lustrous, and shiny. Good for summer wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synthetic fibers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Description&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic Washes well, inexpensive. Good choice for beginners and for items designed for babies or pets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nylon Strong, elastic, washes well. Not ideal for garments unless blended with other fibers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rayon Made from processed cellulose (e.g. wood pulp, bamboo, seaweed) extruded into threads. Inexpensive and highly absorbent, natural sheen.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T12:55:31.853" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T12:55:31.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="99" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="79" CreationDate="2016-04-27T12:50:08.880" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As said by Tom, you should use a mask to spray indoor. It is quite convenient when you are alone but that does not protect your environment. Also don't forget that if you should be wearing a mask in a room, all the other breathing beings in that same room should do the same...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative (or complement) is a spray booth which will catch the particles before they goes everywhere in your room. They are not too expensive (&amp;lt;100$), however, they take some space. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16XGv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16XGv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of a spray booth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course to be effective, you need that the exhaust tube to go outside... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other downside is they are quite noisy. But if you already have your compressor running, it might not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T13:13:09.423" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:13:09.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="83" CreationDate="2016-04-27T12:58:30.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depend on your brushes and if :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they contain glue or not to hold the hair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the hair are in synthetic material (should not be your case since you have kolinsky sable brushes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both case I would not use turpentine or other solvent on the brush since it will damage the glue and hair will go out and if the hairs are synthetic it will damage them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safest would be to have an old brush of the same brand of the one you intend to wash and make a test on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T12:58:30.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:00:39.917" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different kinds of finishes that are food safe. It turns out most finishes once &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westbaywoodturners.com/tutorial/food_safe_finishes.html&quot;&gt;dried or cured are food safe&lt;/a&gt; to one level or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most finishes that cure are only food safe after they have finished curing which, sometimes can take quite a while, days, weeks, for some months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the food oil finishes are very food safe, peanut and walnut oils for example.  However, these are not hypoallergenic, since people with nut oils can react to the finish in the wood.  Though people with extreme allergies could even react to the walnut wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural waxes are excellent food safe finishes that are also hypoallergenic.  Bees wax is a good one and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/is-your-finish-food-safe/&quot;&gt;apparently paraffin is also a good one&lt;/a&gt;, even recommended for cutting boards, which means with the knife in contact with the top it, you are sure to get some mixed in with the food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite wax is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnauba_wax&quot;&gt;Carnuba wax&lt;/a&gt;, it is claimed to be the most hypoallergenic wax out there and it is also the strongest/toughest natural wax known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:00:39.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="118" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:01:18.667" Score="10" ViewCount="3493" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son loves making animals and monsters with Play Doh (an air-drying dough). However, his sculptures tend to crumble and deform and crack while drying, which annoys him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a technique to preserve Play Doh projects that we could try? Or should I help him switch to using different, more durable clays?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T13:50:31.623" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T16:11:43.267" Title="Can air-drying clay projects be preserved?" Tags="|preservation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:12:25.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is almost impossible to answer, since we don't know how much noise will disturb your family (small baby sleeping? kids running around? partner concentrating on a difficult math problem?). But &lt;em&gt;normally&lt;/em&gt; the sound level is shown on compressors and here is some references to help you imagine how much it means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0dB Weakest sound heard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30dB Whisper Quiet Library at 6'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;60-65dB Normal conversation at 3'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80dB Telephone dial tone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;85dB City Traffic (inside car)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;90dB Train whistle at 500', Truck Traffic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;95dB Jackhammer at 50'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;95dB Subway train at 200'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;90 - 95dB Level at which sustained exposure may result in hearing loss&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;98dB Hand Drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/loudness.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Relationship of Voltage, Loudness, Power and Decibels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also be interested in this article on quiet compressor: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aircompressorbase.com/quite-air-compressor-some-facts-you-need-to-know/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quiet Air Compressor – Some Facts You May Want To Know&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T21:32:09.343" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T21:32:09.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:19:35.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Matt's answer which explains how to avoid tufts, here is what I do when a tuft is made anyway:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a brand-new blade (should be as sharp as possible for this), go &lt;em&gt;from the other side&lt;/em&gt; of the paper and scrape switfly along the tuft. You should of course make sure the paper cannot move. Don't try to cut, because the cut will not be continuous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mostly working with thicker paper than you, but perhaps it can still be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:19:35.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:25:13.413" Score="16" ViewCount="2560" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you drill holes in glass bottles (safely)?  Do you need special drill bits, or tools?  High speed drill or extra slow?  I tried once on my drill press and I shattered the bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen really cool things done with empty wine bottles that I wanted to try, but it's a mess to cleaning up the failures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T17:59:25.737" Title="What is a good technique for drilling holes in glass bottles?" Tags="|glass|safety|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="105" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:31:58.193" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be done, but the difference can have more to do with the type of glass than the method. From personal experience, tempered glass is inherently stressed and is almost impossible to work with. Areas towards the necks of bottles have similar issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest fresh masonry bits for their cost effectivenss. Too slow can cause stress from the pressure of the bit, too fast can create too much heat. Keeping the work cool and lubricated is easy in this case (water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have even had some success using a HSS drill bit run in reverse (suggestion from my father). Although, this tended to produce a rougher hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be intricate and fancy (aka small and detailed) I would opt to using something like a diamond burr in a handheld rotary tool, like a dremel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:31:58.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:52:19.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem does not seem so strange to me: I do the same with needles whenever I knit. That is the main reason why instructions contain the &lt;strong&gt;Gauge&lt;/strong&gt; part, so you can choose the right yarn and hook to get the right size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I found written on a shawl crochet pattern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CHECK YOUR GAUGE. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, don't be too worried about &quot;even&quot; stitches while crocheting at first, but let the thread slide quite easily through your fingers while you work, otherwise the final result will be too stiff. The more you get used to crocheting, the more regular your stitches will become.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this can help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user117" LastEditorDisplayName="user117" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T15:10:55.777" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:10:55.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="88" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:55:44.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each type of fiber has unique characteristics that must be taken into account when considering substitution (which is pretty much a pattern-by-pattern process). Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Machine Washability&lt;/strong&gt; Silk and pure wool arn't machine washable, cotton and most synthetics are, linen is actually improved by being machine washed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Breathability&lt;/strong&gt; All of the natural fibers (wool, silk, cotton, linen, etc.) breathe, but the synthetics (acrylic, polyester, etc.) don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Stickiness&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; Certain techniques (drop stitches, felting) require the built-in self-gripping of wool and similar animal fibers. This also impacts things like cotton's known tendency to droop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elasticity&lt;/strong&gt; This is the fiber's ability to stretch and contract, which affects an item's ability to regain its orignial shape as well as how wearing the yarn is to knit with (hand fatigue). Animal fibers and some synthetics are stretchy, while plant fibers aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allergies &amp;amp; Sensitivities&lt;/strong&gt; Wool is the infamous one in both these categories, though synthetics can be problematic, too. Plant fibers do better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the closer you stick to the recommended fiber type, the more predictable the results will be (replacing cotton with wool is riskier than replacing it with linen). If you really want a specific substitution,  you can try contacting the designer for their thoughts; also, if you're on something like Ravelry, you can see if anybody else has tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:55:44.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="109" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:14:18.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watercolor - in which the paints are made of pigments suspended in a water-based solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watercolor_painting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The traditional and most common support—material&lt;/a&gt; to which the paint is applied—for watercolor paintings is paper. Other supports include papyrus, bark papers, plastics, vellum, or leather, fabric, wood, and canvas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T14:56:48.693" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:56:48.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="110" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:14:18.243" Score="0" Body="Watercolor is a painting medium made from suspending pigment in water. There are a variety of materials it's used on, such as canvas, watercolor paper, and vellum. Questions are about using watercolor, selecting the right materials, preserving it and more." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:30:34.917" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:30:34.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="234" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:15:16.960" Score="7" ViewCount="1540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a knitter who's allergic to nickel. Are there any circular knitting needles made without nickel, chrome, or stainless steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T15:32:05.087" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T01:58:19.240" Title="What circular knitting needles can I use if I am allergic to nickel?" Tags="|knitting|allergies|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="111" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:19:56.957" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-metal circular knitting needles (wood or bamboo) are also available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of bamboo needles with a plastic cord connecting them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PqiE2.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PqiE2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:19:56.957" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="115" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:25:05.500" Score="11" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm allergic to wool. Is it still possible for me to knit/crochet/spin/weave?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T03:00:03.703" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T07:43:01.823" Title="What fiber crafts can I do when I am allergic to wool?" Tags="|fiber-crafts|allergies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:25:05.500" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, while you may lose some techniques that depend on wool's specific properties (like felting), there are a variety of fibers still available to the wool-allergic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Animal Fibers&lt;/strong&gt; Alpaca is the most common - but there are also other, more exotic ones - which may be tolerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plant Fibers&lt;/strong&gt; Cotton, linen, hemp. Should be completely tolerable even to the most wool allergic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synthetics&lt;/strong&gt; Acrylic. Like plants, no crossover with wool, so should be safe. (This one may not apply to spinning, however, since synthetic yarns aren't made the same way as natural fiber ones.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's been at least one book written specifically for wool-allergic knitters (&quot;No Sheep For You&quot;) and if you're on Ravelry, you can search the pattern database for patters written for non-wool fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:25:05.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="117" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:45:27.150" Score="6" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting together a knitted sweater. Should I graft the shoulders together or seam them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T14:52:48.123" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:52:48.123" Title="Should I use a graft or a seam when attaching sweater shoulders?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="116" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:45:27.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seam. The shoulders of a sweater are a high-stress area; the entire weight of the sweater hangs from them. A nice, solid seam gives a sturdy structure for that hanging. A graft - which is designed to be stretchy, just like the main fabric of the sweater - can result in droopy shoulders and stretched necklines. The excellent Techknitter wrote an &lt;a href=&quot;http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2011/09/my-sweater-slips-off-my-shoulders.html&quot;&gt;illustrated article&lt;/a&gt; about the importance of seaming sweater shoulders, with lots of detail and tips for different types of necklines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T14:45:27.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="102" CreationDate="2016-04-27T14:53:53.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using Play-Doh specifically, Hasbro's FAQ tells you this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play-Doh compound is designed to use over and over again. If allowed to harden (to preserve a creation) it will most likely crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Look for oven curable clay at your local craft stores to make long lasting creations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which isn't helpful, since it essentially says &quot;you can't&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can attempt to bake and seal it. Drawing some information from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_8601446_harden-play-dough.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this guide&lt;/a&gt;, we can get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start by preheating your oven to 200°F or 90°C. Make sure your Play-Doh sculpture is stable, and place it on a sheet of aluminum foil on top of a cookie sheet or something comparable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bake the sculpture for 10&amp;ndash;15 minutes. If you have thicker parts on the sculpture, you'll have to bake for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I recommend making some test sculpture, like simple tubes, of different thicknesses. By baking these, you can test out how long it takes in your particular oven. You can test if the bake was long enough by breaking the test tube in half and making sure the moisture is gone from the center. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After it's baked, you'll need to apply a varnish to seal the sculpture. You'll want a product that's water proof, and most will do that. Avoid spray varnishes, because the propellant chemicals may affect the sculpture over time. There are varnishes specifically for sculptures, but some people have had success with sculpture by using clear wood finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you apply the varnish, make sure you get every spot. Use a fine brush to get into crevices. After the first coat dries, go back over to get the bottom of the sculpture and wherever you held it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that should do it. Of course, I would test it with a lump, first, to make sure the varnish you're using doesn't result in a sticky texture or soften the Play-Doh as you apply it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="29" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T16:11:43.267" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T16:11:43.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="102" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:08:43.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additionally to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/118/135&quot;&gt;CreationEdge's answer&lt;/a&gt; you might want to look for polymer clay(e.g. Fimo) which is intended to be preserved by baking and handle mostly like Play-Doh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:08:43.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="97" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:25:14.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you burn your clay your oven is too hot. So turn down the heat a bit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can also put your creation into a box made from aluminium foil pans. This will protect it from direct heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also bake the clay multiple times. So create the bigger pieces first, bake them, add the details and bake everything again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to bake everything separately and put it together using glue or even the varnish for small details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="135" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:25:14.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="126" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:28:31.940" Score="11" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently finished my first crochet blanket, and when I was done I needed to weave all the ends in because I had switched colors quite a bit. Even though the finished product is done the ends stick out at various points even though they've been &quot;weaved in&quot;. Is there a technique to getting ends hidden in a &quot;finished&quot; way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="74" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T16:28:33.427" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T17:30:28.487" Title="How can I hide ends that have been woven in on a crochet project?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="122" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:30:15.167" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T15:30:15.167" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:30:15.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="123" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:30:15.167" Score="0" Body="Paper cutting  or papercutting refers to the art of cutting paper into designs, and not just the act of cutting paper for any purpose. A variety of papers and tools, such as craft knives, are used to achieve this. This also covers questions about preserving papercutting pieces. " OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:30:41.653" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:30:41.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="124" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:33:55.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is for questions about the art of drawing. Examples of suitable &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drawing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drawing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drawing&lt;/a&gt; questions might be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I achieve this effect when drawing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which tool/paper should I use for drawing in this scenario?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would I go about drawing this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be used together with e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pencils&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pencils&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pencils&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/erasers&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;erasers&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;erasers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:14:11.027" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:14:11.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="125" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:33:55.703" Score="0" Body="For questions about the use of pens, pencils, chalk, etc. to create images or patterns on a 2-D surface." OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:14:08.260" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:14:08.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="121" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:34:31.997" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First it is important to leave a long enough tails so that you have enough to weave in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually just use a plastic needle and work inside and out of stitches to try and wrap around yarn. In the places where I know part of the ends are to be seen you would try to force those on the bottom of the work or where people wont see (like the inside of a hat.) Working into where your row ends also works since it is usually visually different anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not weave in one loop at a time but try to pull many stitches close together and try to work the tail into all of them at once. Once I am sure I have covered enough ground I would relax the work and that will pull the tail back into the piece. Then after you might just need to either tuck in that last tuft or cut it off it need be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming this is something that you want to wash and is made of washable material then you can put this through and it should stay together. Not forever obviously but it won't fall apart instantly if done right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T15:46:00.303" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:46:00.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="127" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:37:41.540" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T15:37:41.540" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:37:41.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="128" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:37:41.540" Score="0" Body="Decorative handwritten lettering, produced with ink and a pen or brush" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T11:34:09.847" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T11:34:09.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="133" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:40:04.657" Score="4" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question refers to this kind of design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VkYIP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the example is from another question here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/13/how-to-cut-a-tiny-circle-in-paper&quot;&gt;How to cut a tiny circle in paper?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose first I will have to draw that design on paper, then I will cut it. If I draw with a pencil, pencil marks may show through the cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all I have to cut by holding the blade in my hand, I cannot expect machine level perfection soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What medium should I use to make an initial design on paper for paper cutting such that no marks are shown after I am done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-15T02:06:33.267" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T02:06:33.267" Title="What medium should I use to make an initial design on paper for paper cutting?" Tags="|drawing|papercutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="130" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:40:11.407" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T15:40:11.407" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T15:40:11.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="131" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:40:11.407" Score="0" Body="Oil paint is a medium made from suspending pigment in a type of oil. Questions can be about working with the oil, preserving it, selecting the right type, using the paint on different surfaces and more." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:30:20.433" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:30:20.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="129" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:03:04.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use two different methods to accomplish this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will create a template piece out of a stiff piece of paper. This paper has my design drawn on it with pencil or whatever.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I cut out the design on that paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once done, you lay the template over your final paper, and secure it with some type of clips. You want to make sure the template doesn't slip around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, you cut out the design just as you would use a pencil with a stencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's no need to create the &lt;em&gt;entire&lt;/em&gt; design in your template piece. You can create small pieces, just as you would use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_curve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;French curve&lt;/a&gt;, eraser shield, or stencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I simply draw the design &lt;em&gt;in reverse&lt;/em&gt; on the back of the paper you're using, if it's meant to be viewed only from one side. Use a light pencil and make your cuts. The final product will not have the lines visible, as they're on the back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Erasing marks afterwards has not been successful for me. It often leads to tearing of the paper, without erasing much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-15T02:06:29.357" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T02:06:29.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="135" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:12:21.373" Score="6" ViewCount="2231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished my first sock but the top is too tight to go over my heel. I used the long-tail cast-on, should I have used a different one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T15:32:38.747" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T01:53:23.423" Title="What is a stretchy cast-on for top down socks?" Tags="|knitting|casting-on|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="134" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:12:21.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The long-tail cast-on is a sturdy one, excellent for when you need structure, but not so much when you need stretchy. Better choices, in turns of stretch, include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2006/12/casting-on-by-knitting-on-method-also.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cabled cast-on&lt;/a&gt; (super easy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/01/provisional-tail-method-of-1-x-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tubular cast-on&lt;/a&gt; (to go with 1-1 ribbing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2011/11/stretchiest-and-easiest-cast-on-and.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rolled edge&lt;/a&gt; (easy, durable, and would let you still use the long-tail method)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The links are for TECHknitting, but these are well known techniques and a web search will bring up lots of resources for any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T16:12:21.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="137" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:27:44.120" Score="9" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have unnaturally warm hands, which heat up very quickly as I use them, to the point of sweating when playing video games or sculpting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This affects my polymer clay, because my hands make it too soft to work with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using a desk fan blowing on my hands, which works, but it often cools the clay as well, making it too stiff!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? Are there methods of cooling my hands that won't cool the sculpture? Are there tools I can use that suitably substitute for my fingers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T17:06:21.063" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T17:06:21.063" Title="How can I keep my warm hands from making polymer clay too soft?" Tags="|polymer-clay|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="136" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:38:11.477" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might try two things, one handle the clay as little as required, the less you touch it the less heat it will absorb.  And maybe try something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aquacoolkeeper.com/gb/cooling-for-people/cooling-wristband.html&quot;&gt;Wristband coolers&lt;/a&gt;.  The link is to one brand, but the idea is that you can cool down your whole body with these.  It is a band that wraps your wrist (where you have a lot blood vessels).  I'll run my wrists under cool water on hot summer days and it will cool me off just as well as a bucket over the head, without the mess. So being able to cool down your hands should be possible and might work well enough to get you where you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T16:38:11.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:54:36.957" Score="21" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small craft knife (almost like a scalpel, really) that's become rather blunt over the years. It's no longer safe to use because it's so blunt, so I need to sharpen it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the safest ways to do this, considering its small size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blade itself is about 2.5cm / 1in long&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The knife is made of stainless steel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T03:10:36.423" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T16:49:55.793" Title="How can I safely sharpen a small craft knife?" Tags="|safety|sharpening|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="139" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:58:45.717" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T16:58:45.717" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T16:58:45.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="140" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:58:45.717" Score="0" Body="For questions about modeling clay made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) that is malleable until baked to harden. Popular brands include Sculpey and Kato" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T23:00:26.230" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:00:26.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:17:24.600" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Lucia already stated, practising helps a lot. &#xA;Then, there are different ways to hold your yarn, try and find the way that works best for you.&#xA;Take a look at &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crochetguru.com/hold-yarn-for-crochet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.crochetguru.com/hold-yarn-for-crochet.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;for images and instructions.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to hold the yarn, is loop the yarn around your little finger, then over your ringfinger, middle finger and index finger. &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A loose way to hold your yarn is without the loop around your little finger, just the thread betweeen little finger and ringfinger, and over your ringfinger, middle finger and index finger. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;If that's too loose, you could loop the thread around your index finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T02:13:30.470" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T02:13:30.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:25:19.017" Score="15" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;The UK and US use numbered or lettered hook sizes in their patterns rather than a standardized measurement. What are the conversions between the hook sizes depending on whether I'm using US or UK patterns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T15:24:25.063" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T20:22:14.547" Title="What is the conversion for UK and US crochet hooks to mm?" Tags="|crocheting|crochet-hooks|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="142" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:25:19.017" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;For hook sizes, it's always best to refer to the size of the hook in mm, if possible. This should be standard across all countries. Metric sizes are used in many countries including Australia and New Zealand. UK sizes are generally used in the UK and Canada. US sizes are generally used only in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equivalents (when applicable) are below. Note that some sites give different size conversions for the same hook and not all mm sizes are available in every system, which is why some sizes are listed under more than one mm size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crochet Hook Conversions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Metric&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;US&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;UK&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;14&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.25 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1/B&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;13&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.50 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;12&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.75 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2/C&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;11/12&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;11&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3.25 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3/D&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;10&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3.50 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4/E&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;9&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3.75 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5/F&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;9&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6/G&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;8&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4.50 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;7&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;7&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;8/H&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5.50 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;9/I&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;10/J&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6.50 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;10½/K&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;7.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;n/a&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;7.50 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;n/a&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;8.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;11/L&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;9.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;13/M/N&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;00&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;10.0 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;15/N/P&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;000&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;15.0 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;P/Q&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;n/a&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;16.0 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Q&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;n/a&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;19.0 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;S&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;n/a&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-10-14T20:22:14.547" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T20:22:14.547" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="87" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:29:29.130" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The distinction between the crafts are the tools used and how many stitches are held at the same time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crochet&lt;/strong&gt; is done with a single hooked needle and typically only a few stitches are held at one time before being crocheted off. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knitting&lt;/strong&gt; is done with two or more needles, and rows of stitches are held open before being knitted off.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Afghan/Tunisian crocheting&lt;/strong&gt; used a single hooked needle, but keeps an entire row of stitches held open on the needle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T16:51:14.473" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T16:51:14.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:34:26.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to act quickly, and absorb the paint with either a cloth or (nearly) dry brush. You can remove most of the spilled paint that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, depending on what's still visible, you might want to wet the edges of the stain, to soften the colour transition. &#xA;You might also want to repaint a part of the existing painting, or if you're really creative, give the stain a purpose in your painting. Like, when your painting is a still life with flowers, the unwanted drop of paint may become a bug or a hole in one of the leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T17:34:26.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="138" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:38:21.963" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the knife is really that blunt, I recommend taking it to be professionally sharpened. Many craft stores offer this service either as part of their regular services or on a part-time basis (once or twice a month). Otherwise, you may have a knife sharpener in your city who would be able to do it. The cost is generally based on the length of the blade, so should not be very high for your knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a good-quality mechanical sharpener at home and know how to use it well - or have learned how to use a whetstone and steel, it will be difficult for you to return the knife to the necessary level of sharpness for crafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honers can only realign the blade slightly and are for daily knife maintenance, they can not actually sharpen a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T17:38:21.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="147" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:57:13.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knitting is &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric; [it] may be done by hand or by machine&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, as defined by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/yarn&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;yarn&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;yarn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fiber-crafts&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fiber-crafts&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fiber-crafts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/embroidery&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;embroidery&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;embroidery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/weaving&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;weaving&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;weaving&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T08:49:40.767" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T08:49:40.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="148" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:57:13.130" Score="0" Body="Questions about materials, tools, and techniques specific to the craft of knitting. Those questions that apply to knitting but aren't specific to it may fit better in the [yarn] or [fiber-crafts] tags." OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T08:50:28.433" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T08:50:28.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="150" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:00:41.417" Score="5" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;When casting on to circular needles is there a technique to not making it too tight or too loose? I realize the first row after casting is hard, but I've really struggled casting on partly because the loops on the needle part are super loose but the loops, when they end up on the cable part of the circular needle are very loose. (If this is too vague or confusing please let me know)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T01:27:16.500" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T01:27:16.500" Title="When casting onto circular needles how can I make certain that the tightness is correct?" Tags="|knitting|casting-on|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:28:38.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting a circular cast-on up and running can indeed be tricky. Fortunately, there are several techniques that can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a sturdy cast-on&lt;/strong&gt; The long-tail cast-on is a good one for this as it basically includes the first row of knitting. Be careful if you need stretch, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add some weight to the cast-on&lt;/strong&gt; This can be done by putting some stitch markers in the cast-on (helps get the number of stitches right, too!) or by knitting a short provisional section flat and then joining (you go back later, unravel the provisional section, and use that yarn to cast-off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try DPNs&lt;/strong&gt; If the cable part is what grieves you, you might try casting on with double-point needles, instead. They can have their own fussiness, but it works for some folks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practice&lt;/strong&gt; Yeah, nobody likes to hear this one, but it's so very true. Even after more than a decade of knitting, it still sometimes takes me a few tries to get a circular cast-on going well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/01/circular-knitting-3-in-1-techjoin_26.html&quot;&gt;TECHknitter's 3-in-1 circular join&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41253330/Dee&amp;#39;s%20No-Twist%20Circular%20Knitting%20Cast%20On%20Tutorial.pdf&quot;&gt;Dee's No-Twist Circular Knitting Cast-On Tutorial&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:28:38.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:29:16.920" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;PrismaColor has a colorless blender pencil.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Further, you could layer colours (start with the darkest) and use a (near) white pencil to burnish the colours. Make sure the tip of your pencil is sharp and apply the colour in small circular motions to get an even result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:29:16.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="586" CreationDate="2016-04-27T19:06:19.933" Score="12" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only had experience dry-folding. The one and only time I attempted to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wet-folding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wet fold&lt;/a&gt;, the paper disintegrated.  How do I know when the paper's absorbed the appropriate amount of moisture for wetfolding, where it won't tear along the folds, yet remain pliable long enough to get through the entire model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum: I've been using typing/printer paper, given that I knew I was liable to screw up a lot at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T17:13:26.700" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T21:04:55.087" Title="How do I know I've got the right amount of moisture in the paper to wet-fold origami?" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2016-04-27T19:27:31.340" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be a somewhat complicated process, to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.architecturerevived.com/shadow-in-perspective-drawing-art-technique/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;draw shadows in perspective&lt;/a&gt;. There are many great resources, but I'll show a simple demo here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is using a single light source and a simple box form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7gXj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7gXj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the construction steps I used to create that final image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay down your horizon line and choose your vanishing points (VP). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw your shape (here the blue box) in perspective. Use standard perspective technique, connecting points on your shape to the relevant VP. Make sure you draw the hidden part of the object (the back), because that can affect the shadow shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign a place for your Light Source. This is up to up. The horizontal distance from your object will determine the rotation of the shadow. The vertical distance from the horizon will affect the length of the shadow, with greater distance shortening shadows (just like at high noon). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From your light source, draw Shadow Perspective Lines to the top vertex points of your shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From your Horizon Light Point (AKA light vanishing point) draw the Shadow Perspective Lines connecting to the bottom points corresponding to the points from step 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the intersection of the SPLs from vertexes connected by common edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect these SPL intersections. They are the boundaries of your shadow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the remaning SPL intersections to the ground-level vertex of the object by following your SPL to the horizon light vanishing point. (Usually, you don't have to think about it and just connected it to the logical corner.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shade in between those boundaries you just made.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things get more complicated as your shape gets more complicated, is not resting on the ground, or has curves. The guide I linked to earlier has information on casting shadows from the air, and onto other objects instead of the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cast shadows of curved objects by creating a shadow map of the box you could draw around your perspective object. &lt;a href=&quot;http://thevirtualinstructor.com/how-to-draw-paint-cast-shadows.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Virtual Instructor&lt;/a&gt; has some examples of shadows of circular and spherical objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information, you'll want to find resources regarding drawing in perspective, and especially shadows in perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple light sources and ambient light will further complicate your drawing. Getting this done correctly may be less a matter of calculation and more a case for studying how shadows work in the real world. Observation and reference will be your best friend there, especially as you learn about how light and shade works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T19:27:31.340" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="95" CreationDate="2016-04-27T19:30:15.013" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It never hurts to take a machine that is new to you in for a servicing, because you don't really know how it's been treated, and what it may need.  At that time, it's not a bad idea to talk to the person servicing the machine.  Different models and brands of machines may need different work, and different usage levels and types of projects may require more regular servicing than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty irregular at getting my machines serviced - and my Viking has held up very well to my abuse.  But it's always good take it in for service if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thread is getting stuck or breaking frequently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you are breaking lots of needles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the machine's engine does not sound like a regular repeatable sound &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you see signs of oil anywhere on your fabric or your hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the thread will not catch (so the machine won't sew)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that service schedules may not be instantaneous.. at least near me, the folks who can service a sewing machine are getting rarer.  So I plan at least 2 weeks of service time if my machine is acting funny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T19:30:15.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="155" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:41:18.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For methods and techniques to safely perform different tasks while producing art and crafts.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What sort of ventilation should I have when painting miniatures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I use a glass cutter safely?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to minimize hazards associated with an art or craft item. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to minimize sharp edges?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to make the item less flammable or non-toxic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to avoid the risk of a heavy piece falling?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to make the item child-safe?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/allergies&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;allergies&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;allergies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/food-safe&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;food-safe&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;food-safe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T20:11:59.893" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T20:11:59.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="156" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T20:41:18.290" Score="0" Body="How to use equipment or chemicals in a safe manner, or minimize hazards associated with an art or craft item, including making it child-safe." OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T08:47:36.983" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T08:47:36.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="157" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:08:32.583" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T21:08:32.583" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T21:08:32.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="158" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:08:32.583" Score="0" Body="For questions about working with fiber from all sources (animal, plant, and synthetic) in its raw form or finished products (like yarn), as well as the crafts that use these fibers. Questions specific to a single fiber-craft should also use a tag specific to that craft." OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:51:59.573" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:51:59.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="159" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:14:07.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Origami (&lt;em&gt;ori&lt;/em&gt;: fold; &lt;em&gt;kami&lt;/em&gt;: paper) questions should be about paper folding techniques, materials, and tools. Origami subjects that should use this tag can include (but are not limited to):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper selection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crease patterns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Folding techniques (e.g., wet-folding)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Folding tools&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Model design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Help with a specific diagram step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Randlett-Yoshizawa notation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unit origami&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tesselation origami&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Money origami&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abstract and freeform origami&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper airplanes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine if this is the right tag for your question, ask yourself &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;is the &lt;em&gt;main&lt;/em&gt; form of paper manipulation folding?&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. If yes, then it falls under origami.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Subjects that should NOT be tagged with origami include:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kirigami — a &amp;quot;pop-up art&amp;quot; technique that includes both cutting and folding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Papercutting or silhouettes — creating artworks from paper only by cutting (use the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/papercutting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;papercutting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;papercutting&lt;/a&gt; tag).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Papercraft — creating artworks by cutting, folding, and gluing pieces of paper together into 3D models.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Papier-mâché (use the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper-mache&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper-mache&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper-mache&lt;/a&gt; tag).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper sculpture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Subjects that are off-topic would be:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Model instruction requests (i.e., &amp;quot;How can I fold an elephant?&amp;quot;). This is too broad to be covered in a simple answer if someone were to give you a fold-by-fold. And there is no single &amp;quot;right&amp;quot; answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Model diagram requests.  Same reasons as above with the addition that link-only answers are bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Questions about the mathematical theory behind origami are better served on &lt;a href=&quot;https://math.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;math.SE&lt;/a&gt;, where they have &lt;a href=&quot;http://math.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/origami&quot;&gt;a number of questions already tagged with [origami]&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pepakura&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pepakura&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pepakura&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/papercraft&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;papercraft&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;papercraft&lt;/a&gt; - For questions about modeling paper where the use of glue and cutting is allowed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/action-origami&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;action-origami&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;action-origami&lt;/a&gt; - For animated origami.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/papercutting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;papercutting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;papercutting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper-cutter&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper-cutter&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper-cutter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper-mache&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper-mache&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper-mache&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T18:11:32.327" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T18:11:32.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="160" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:14:07.563" Score="0" Body="The art of folding paper to create shapes and figures. Use this tag for questions about folding techniques, materials, and tools.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;If folding is not the only/main form of manipulating the paper, do not use this tag." OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T11:11:59.497" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T11:11:59.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="161" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:18:18.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/safety&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;safety&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;safety&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/food-safe&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;food-safe&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;food-safe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T20:11:49.017" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T20:11:49.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="162" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:18:18.693" Score="0" Body="For questions that focus on issues related to avoiding or substituting materials or tools due to allergic reactions, including but not limited to wool (and other natural fibers), nickel, latex, etc." OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:30:48.590" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:30:48.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="164" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:23:02.533" Score="22" ViewCount="23491" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pencils seem to have different types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/btzCQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/btzCQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen, there's a few types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2HB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between all the different pencils? When do I use one or the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T16:49:31.313" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T15:07:42.503" Title="Differences between HB pencils" Tags="|pencils|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="163" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:38:32.013" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;H and B relate to the hardness or softness of the pencil's graphite. &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; stands for &amp;quot;hard&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;B&amp;quot; stands for &amp;quot;black&amp;quot; with &amp;quot;F&amp;quot; right in the middle between HB and H... though, the source of the lettering seems to be debatable according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pencil#Grading_and_classification&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; - H stands for &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koh-i-Noor_Hardtmuth&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hardtmuth&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (the surname of the owner of an art supply company) and B stands for &amp;quot;Budweis&amp;quot;, the town the pencil company was relocated to but &amp;quot;hard&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;black&amp;quot; are probably more useful to remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;number 2 pencil&amp;quot; as we (in the US) are often told to use for filling out multiple choice answers on Scantron sheets, is right in the middle, the equivalent of &amp;quot;HB&amp;quot;... though, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://pencils.com/hb-graphite-grading-scale/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;, there's no &amp;quot;industry standard&amp;quot; so one company's HB may not be the same as another's. This is also explained in the Wikipedia article linked above, which notes that on some scales, the US equivalent of HB is a #2 pencil, while other manufacturers use the equivalent HB=2½.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general explanation of the differences between the grades, pencils.com shows the following image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8J8T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8J8T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lead hardness/softness&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the image, the higher the H value, the lighter the result but the finer the point, while at the other end, the higher the B value, the darker the blackness of the graphite and wider the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jetpens.com/blog/picking-the-perfect-pencil-hardness-grade/pt/475&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; has some great guidance on what the benefits of each are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H leads are extremely smudge-resistant and give cleaner lines, making them useful for things such as outlines, technical drawings, light sketches, and even watercolors. Left-handed pencil users can also take advantage of smudge-resistant H leads. On the downside, hard leads tend to be scratchy, especially as you move up the scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B leads are smooth to write and draw with. They smudge easily, but are readily erased. They're perfect for pencil drawings as artists can take advantage of the brush-like expressions, especially in the higher B grades. Animators in particular enjoy using 10B over animator paper because it writes like butter, creating nice, quick, heavy lines with no friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T22:42:55.057" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="62" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:01:20.510" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;To prevent the paper buckling/cockling you pre-stretch it, That is you wet the paper and tape it down to a rigid board with gum strip. I generally use a wooden drawing board that I made in work shop practice 50 odd years ago. Note masking tape does not work as well as gum-strip for this as it does not adhere very well to wet paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You paint onto the stretched paper and only cut it free from the gum-strip when finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavier paper (say 300+ grams per square meter) usually does not cockle when you paint on it using water colour technique (do not regard this as a challenge, I'm sure you could get it to cockle with a wet enough technique).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T22:01:20.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:13:03.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inkflow with any liquid-ink pen has to do with capillary action and liquid/air exchange. If a pen is skipping, the flow is being interrupted. Check that there are no obstructions along the nib or nib slit(s), and then check the feed (the plastic bit against the nib) of the pen.  It could simply be an air gap that's fixed by flushing, or the feed may be too tight against the nib. Air has to get &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the cartridge for the ink to get out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T22:26:11.090" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T22:26:11.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="260" CreationDate="2016-04-27T22:43:01.207" Score="8" ViewCount="44181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start on a project made of felt. I'm making caterpillar segments out of felt, and I need to mark alphabet letters on the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This project is for kids. They'll make their caterpillar by putting the alphabet in order or spelling words. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of marker will best show so that it will not fade and be clear enough for the kids? (For instance, fine tip won't work). I'm using light colored felt patterns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking fabric markers may be okay, but the color assortment is expensive. On the other hand, there are permanent markers (cheap and on hand) and paint markers. I'd test it out myself, but I'm on a budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T23:08:29.140" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T23:31:31.997" Title="Do certain markers work better on felt?" Tags="|felt|markers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="168" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:02:51.140" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T23:02:51.140" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T23:02:51.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="169" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:02:51.140" Score="0" Body="Questions about working with felt, for both the material itself and tools or products to use with it." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:30:53.670" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:30:53.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="171" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:22:09.117" Score="15" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to keep the label that comes with the yarn I buy but I do have a few balls of yarn where the label has disappeared and I don't have an additional, unused ball (that would still have the label).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to tell what fiber(s) a yarn has if I've lost all the documentation for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T18:32:43.507" Title="Is there a way to determine the fiber content of a yarn if I've lost the label?" Tags="|yarn|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="170" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:22:09.117" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Maggie Righetti in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0312353537&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knitting in Plain English&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, there are a couple of methods you can use to narrow down the possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Burn Test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a small length of the yarn and hold a flame to one end of it. Take safety precautions when doing this. Don't perform this test near anything else that's flammable and be prepared for the yarn to burn or melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Animal Fibers - These will burn slightly but will not sustain a fire once the source of the flame is removed. There will also be a smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plant Fibers - These will sustain a fire once lit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Man-made - These will melt when exposed to high heat or flame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Rub Test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rub a few strands of the yarn between two fingers 8 - 10 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cashmere and some acrylics - These fibers will start to pill or ball when rubbed together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Resistance Test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold 3 inches of a single strand of yarn between your hands. Pull the strand firmly, then quickly release the tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good wool, some acrylics - Will &quot;stretch and snap back&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cotton, linen, and silk - These have poor elasticity and will not snap back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting Mixed Results&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you seem to get results that imply the yarn is multiple things, it probably is. Many yarns are a mixture of different fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;Righetti, M. (2007). Chapter 3: Don't Get All Balled Up About Yarn. In &lt;em&gt;Knitting in Plain English&lt;/em&gt;. New York City, NY: St. Martin's Press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="46" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T18:32:43.507" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T18:32:43.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="80" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:35:30.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With oil pastels, I've actually found that using an eraser will help smudge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a fine eraser, that's decently thin, you should be able to use it to smudge in small areas. When you want to move on to another colour, you may need to eraser the tip off, but it lasts a good while and it's always given me great results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to find an eraser with a small tip. The refillable ones generally have small tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HiVsS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HiVsS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSKW2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSKW2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could use a pencil tip, even if it might not last as long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T23:35:30.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="80" CreationDate="2016-04-27T23:47:34.700" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to simply keep your thumb clean is to wrap it in a paper towel or cloth. This doesn't really resolve the problem of thumb size, however -- indeed, it makes your thumb &lt;em&gt;larger&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For finer detail work, a &lt;strong&gt;tortillion&lt;/strong&gt; would be better. This is a rolled-up piece of paper that tapers to a point. This is much like &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/172/30&quot;&gt;Zizouz212's suggestion of an eraser&lt;/a&gt;, but perhaps less expensive -- you can purchase tortillions, but it's also possible to simply roll your own from whatever paper you have on hand (&lt;a href=&quot;http://edelric666.deviantart.com/art/How-to-make-a-tortillion-150648384&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's one tutorial&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T23:47:34.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="182" CreationDate="2016-04-28T00:12:41.367" Score="9" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make some small wooden &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuboctahedron&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cuboctahedron&lt;/a&gt;, that is something of this shape:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6BygCm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6BygCm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They should be about 2cm high. So, my idea is to take a long wooden piece (2cm x 2cm x 200cm) and cut some small cube of 2x2x2 cm. I have a jigsaw to cut the cubes. However, I'm not sure about a good way to &quot;cut the triangles&quot; (the jigsaw feels dangerous for my fingers):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3XoYWm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3XoYWm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T11:09:07.033" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T12:53:30.803" Title="How can I safely cut pieces off a small wooden cube?" Tags="|woodworking|wood|wood-carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="178" CreationDate="2016-04-28T01:52:04.143" Score="10" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when working on a drawing or painting at home, the final result will look incorrect when shown outside or in different light. How can I ensure color correctness when working on my art?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T07:51:43.980" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T07:51:43.980" Title="When working in a visual medium, how do I avoid incorrect color?" Tags="|color|lighting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T01:57:02.277" Score="9" ViewCount="15087" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you mix a great color using your palette but then you have to put your work aside for the evening or even longer. So, how can you preserve the colors on your palette until you're ready to use them again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T10:19:11.670" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T18:29:13.880" Title="How can you preserve oil paints on your palette between sessions?" Tags="|preservation|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="179" CreationDate="2016-04-28T01:59:41.777" Score="6" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I'm painting with oils, I often layer new colors over older parts of the canvas. This generally works fine, but sometimes the upper layer can crack as it starts to dry. Why is this and what can I do to prevent it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T12:20:46.030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T12:20:46.030" Title="Why are the top layers of my oil painting cracking when it starts to dry?" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="175" CreationDate="2016-04-28T02:14:30.187" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As photographers know, the color of light is usually &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; white, and when working in your home, you're often working under tungsten bulbs (or similar) which have a warm tone to the light or with fluorescent which have a green cast. Because your brain is pretty good at making what you think should be white look like white, these lights can cause your eyes to see the colors differently and, as a result, change the way you mix or blend in your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with photography, we can control the light we use and select for what our eyes naturally tend to, which is daylight. Where possible, you should light your work with dedicated lamps using daylight balanced light bulbs with a color temperature in and around 5500K. The packaging should specify the color temperature, which is more reliable than if it merely says daylight on the package, so avoid those that don't or that claim a temperature way off that number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really recommend getting some decent swing-arm desk lamps and LED bulbs. Not only are these lamps cheaper, but they're usually a lot brighter and much easier to position, especially with easels. LEDs are really efficient and they don't heat you up when working in close quarters, making for a more comfortable experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T02:14:30.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2016-04-28T07:25:57.943" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the golden rule when layering oil paint is to work &lt;strong&gt;lean to fat&lt;/strong&gt; (or fat over lean).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this actually mean? Lean paint is paint that is diluted with white-spirit or turpentine. It is 'watery', and dries quickly. Typically underpaintings are done in this way, as it's quick and easy to correct mistakes. As you then build up subsequent layers, use less spirits and more medium (typically linseed oil) - the oil being the 'fat'. These layers dry more slowly as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this ensures that the lower layers dry more quickly than the upper layers. Cracking happens when the top layers dry first, then the lower layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other considerations: cheaper paint will have more varied drying time between different colours. If you notice some particular colours cracking this may be the cause. Information about drying times is usually available on the manufacturer's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastEditorUserId="84" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T10:28:11.747" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T10:28:11.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="175" CreationDate="2016-04-28T07:32:13.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: replace North with South if you are in the Southern hemisphere&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking: aim to draw or paint in &lt;strong&gt;North light&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North light is that which comes from windows facing North. If you're able, block out light from other windows. But why? Well, the sun is in the South, so windows facing in other directions will have variable light during the day, and the properties of it will change significantly as the sun moves across the sky. The North light will obviously still vary in intensity, but will otherwise be relatively constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finearttips.com/2010/01/why-how-to-turn-your-window-into-instant-north-light/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a bit more information and history on North light&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T07:32:13.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="176" CreationDate="2016-04-28T07:35:09.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're working with oil paint? Nothing is needed! Paints on a palette will remain workable without any further interaction for a couple of days. Longer than this, consider putting some cling film carefully over the top. If the paints have gone a bit stiff when you come back to them, simply work them carefully with a bit of white spirit or turpentine to loosen them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T10:25:21.210" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T10:25:21.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="174" CreationDate="2016-04-28T10:35:37.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jigsaw is a poor choice of tool for this given the size of the finished product and that it is a roughing tool more designed for cutting sheet goods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tools to consider&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bandsaw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the polyhedron was a little larger and your valued the tolerance of the finished product I would most certainly suggest the bandsaw as you can use a mitre slide and a custom sled with a proper angle to get all of the cuts accurately. However the tiny size hinders the success of that size you cannot clamp that small and that is too close for the fingers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coping saw and/or sandpaper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might take a little practice but if you are up to using hand tools then I would suggest a coping saw and sandpaper. Use the saw to get the larger sides cut and then just sandpaper to get the triangle faces done. It is small enough to not take too much effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Notes on mass production&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the comments it looks like you are going to try and mass produce these. I still think sanding would be safer but I suppose you could use a disk sander to speed up the process. Just keep in mind that it is still a power tool that can hurt you so always be mindful of that. Don't sacrifice in an attempt to increase efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider making a small ramp of jig that would give you a 60 degree angle. Looking at an edge view from the wiki that can help ensure the best angles when sanding. You can try and use a set of small squeeze clamps to help keep your fingers out of harms way. Those might become less useful as you form your cube since the sides will be made smaller and there will be less to grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Perhaps this product already exists if you are interested&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need that many I would look to see if someone already has these machined and sells them. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/237121215/100pcs-natural-polyhedron-faceted-cube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I found this seller on Etsy that makes what appears to be the correct polyhedral&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/215501287/geometric-wooden-beads-natural-20mm-pack?ref=market&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one as well&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BG7xqm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BG7xqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like a bead supplier could have these and they could likely be finished as well with varnish too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Woodworking.SE&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do nail down a process/procedure based on tools available but still need more help consider coming over to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;woodworking.se&lt;/a&gt; and asking there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.167" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T12:53:30.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="190" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:06:13.393" Score="8" ViewCount="1810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to cover some books with adhesive contact paper. Although I try to do it slowly and with the help of a ruler, I systematically get some bubbles between the book and the cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good trick to do that properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jhtzs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jhtzs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2022-05-12T17:04:38.770" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T13:35:18.883" Title="How can I laminate with contact paper without leaving bubbles?" Tags="|paper|lamination|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="152" CreationDate="2016-04-28T12:52:26.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giladorigami.com/Articles_Wetfolding.html&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; explaining step by step how to do wet folding origami.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important part related to your question is this. (they recommend using a spray bottle for dampening the paper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The technique is called &quot;wet-folding&quot;, yet you don't want to wet the paper, but rather to only moisten it. Spray the sheet with a fine mist from about 30cm away, wipe the paper with the cloth to spread moisture evenly, and quickly repeat on the other side of the sheet, before it curls. The paper should not be wet! It should only be slightly damp, not shiny with water. You should feel how it gives less resistant to manipulation, a little like a piece of leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T12:52:26.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2016-04-28T13:43:25.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never personally done this with books but in concept there are a few things you need to keep in mind that will help make this process easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove all debris from the cover of the book.&lt;/strong&gt; Dust particles and hair will make this a near impossible process. Small particles that you cant see and wont show up until you make contact. This is something you likely are already mindful of but you need to be sure of your cleaning medium as well. Something with paper fibers like Kleenex or paper towels would leave behind stuff as well. Dust in the air as well won't be helping this so need to pick a good location&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your surface needs to be flat.&lt;/strong&gt; I mean this both as your working surface and the book itself. You might be having an issue if you are working the adhesive sheet from the top to the bottom of the book. The binding would make the book sit not perfectly flat. You might have more luck moving from left to right or more accurately start at the binding and work away from it. Working from top to bottom might cause the book pages to slide as you progress.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T13:43:25.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2037" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:15:12.923" Score="6" ViewCount="2065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a wooden box using box joints. The box should be cube-shaped with sides of around 10cm and one side open. This is my first time to make box joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the box to be as light as possible, so thin wood would be better - however, I can imagine that with thin wood, the joints would be smaller and thus more tedious to get right. Or would this not be such a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If thin wood is not a real option, what types of light (weight-wise) wood could I consider? For example, I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/types-of-wood-for-woodworking.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that pine wood is easy to shape and stain. Would this be an advantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colour is not an issue, but cheaper wood is preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T07:43:04.040" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T07:43:04.040" Title="What type of thin or light wood is suitable for making box joints?" Tags="|material-selection|woodworking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="186" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:19:06.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plywood is ultimately the answer. When making box joints or finger joints you need to have dimensionally uniform and preferably stable wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood comes in many sizes and I would imagine something like 8mm would be fine. If you are OK with something larger like 16mm then you would have stronger joints as there would be more surface area.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is dependent on what tools you have. A box joint jig on a table saw would make this a breeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I read here that pine wood is easy to shape and stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine is cheap. That is its main advantage. Most softwood is easy to shape by nature. Easy to stain is inaccurate as pine (and other woods) is susceptible to blotching. Blotching meaning a non-uniform stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Real wood will almost always certainly look better. On box joints you are going to see the plys more so you need to know if that is something you are comfortable with aesthetically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T17:05:25.083" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T17:05:25.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="186" CreationDate="2016-04-28T14:38:43.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Matt said, plywood is likely the simplest and most stable wood material to use to make this box.  Though pine tends to be lighter than plywood of the same dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine is easy to shape and will actually be easier for a beginner than plywood, since plywood (at least in my experience) likes to splinter easy around cuts.  It has to do with the thin layers glued together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High quality (veneered) plywood has nice face that looks good, and even can 'look' much nicer, however when using box joints the edges will be visible and you will be able to see the ply's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pine will likely look better on the box joints.  So it's cheap, it's easy to shape, it's light, and it can look fine with just a finish coat on it.  As Matt pointed out, pine does tend to be blotchy with staining, so extra work will be need there.  Though a lot of veneer plywood is birch plywood, which is also a blotchy wood, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T14:38:43.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:12:38.647" Score="10" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pen turning is a fairly common focus for people wanting to learn to turn wood.  Pens are small and 'appear' easy to make.  Having the right equipment can make it a simpler process.  So what kind of a lathe would one need to be able to turn pens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T16:48:34.413" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T17:59:09.163" Title="What kind of lathe would I need if I want to turn pens?" Tags="|woodworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:24:16.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try removing the paper off the plastic foil during the process, not before like removing a little bit of foil, sticking it on the edge, then pulling away the paper flat on the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T15:45:59.147" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T15:45:59.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="189" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:38:06.727" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several basic groups of wood turning lathes based on size.  There are the pen/mini lathes, the midi lathes and your full sized lathes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=pen%20lathe&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS603US603&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1080&amp;amp;bih=1859&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjjifPV0bHMAhVJsIMKHeAZC80Q_AUICCgD&amp;amp;dpr=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pen/mini lathes&lt;/a&gt; are the smallest. These are almost always bench top models have a small foot print and smaller swing often 8-10&quot;.  Bed lengths vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=midi%20lathe%20wood&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS603US603&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1080&amp;amp;bih=1859&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj2lNrk1LHMAhXhxIMKHTtGBCEQ_AUICCgD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Midi Lathes&lt;/a&gt; are larger than mini's and tend to have a 10-12&quot; swing, longer beds and most are bench top models, however some have stands.  They tend to be more powerful, since they can handle larger pieces than the mini's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full sized lathes are the largest, tend to be floor models (but not always) and have the largest swings, often starting about 14&quot; and up into the 20's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality you can turn a pen on any of them.  However, full sized lathes are overkill for size, power and price.  Midi's are reasonable to use especially if you turn things other than small items like pens.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves the pen/mini's as the likely option.  They are the cheapest of the bunch, allowing more money for buying pen stock, the are the smallest, allowing for a small work space/shop, and they are designed for this type of work, which means it should have smaller error tolerances as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the comments, these lathes can also be used with resin stocks and other similar materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T17:59:09.163" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T17:59:09.163" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2016-04-28T15:47:46.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the ideas given in other answers I found two tricks to make the process easier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can try to remove bubbles with the help of a pin pressing them slightly and then smoothing them out. But this is more of a remedy for when you already have the bubbles than a solution for your problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.essentialbaby.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/497316-how-to-cover-school-books-without-getting-bubbles/#entry6641880&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is suggested that you spray a bit of water in the non-adhesive side of the contact paper and your surface before putting the book over the contact. I haven't tried it myself but it is worth a try.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="138" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T16:12:36.073" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T16:12:36.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T16:03:01.640" Score="8" ViewCount="2059" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you are yarning away and your yarn starts to get away from you. Now you have to stop what you are doing, possibly forgetting my many runs or stitches you were doing, pick up your yarn, roll it back together and continue on your way. Worst case you could end up with something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cn46J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cn46J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://velmaknits.blogspot.ca/2010_04_01_archive.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;velmaknits.blogspot.ca&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to stop my yarn from rolling around while still keeping control to feed as needed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T16:15:39.427" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T22:10:44.330" Title="How can I keep my yarn relatively stationary while working?" Tags="|knitting|crocheting|yarn|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="193" CreationDate="2016-04-28T16:03:01.640" Score="12" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yarn Bowl&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKWbwm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKWbwm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of a yarn bowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the easiest suggestion I can think of. You just need a bowl or &lt;em&gt;bowl like object&lt;/em&gt; with a hole or path for the yarn to come out. The hole is large enough for the yarn but small enough to stop the ball from moving around. The weight of the bowl is important as well since you will be pulling on it. Having it close to yourself would help that anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are oodles of commercial options but avid crafters would &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Bamboo-Yarn-Bowl/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;make their own&lt;/a&gt; following the basic criteria above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T17:33:54.963" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T17:33:54.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="193" CreationDate="2016-04-28T16:16:17.280" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is put your yarn in a container of some sort. It should be wide enough that the yarn can roll around a bit (don't want it to rub hard against the sides) and deep enough that the yarn can't easily jump out, but other than that the sky's the limit. Containers I've used and/or heard about include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yarn bowls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;baskets (be careful with wicker, it can snag)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drawers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bags (hung on door knobs or chair backs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plastic storage tubs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T16:16:17.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="193" CreationDate="2016-04-28T16:40:10.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that can help on its own or even &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/194/44&quot;&gt;partner with the concept of the bowl&lt;/a&gt; is to work the yarn from the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works better for skeins but what you do is reach inside the skein and pull out the small ball of yarn that is inside. That is the end of the whole roll. If you can get that out, the yarn will feed from the inside and it won't roll the skein around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also called pulling the center out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_I_1yz1yvU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video showing the procedure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T20:49:58.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="193" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:31:42.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to buy a yarn bowl, you could also use a colander, and have the yarn run through one of the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T17:31:42.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="584" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:34:47.050" Score="5" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the &lt;em&gt;theory&lt;/em&gt; behind learning to fold a model from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.langorigami.com/crease-patterns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crease pattern&lt;/a&gt;, but given that CPs are more a tool for designers than folders, there doesn't seem to be much intermediate ground between trivial &quot;here, do a bird base...&quot; lessons or &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.giladnaor.com/2008/08/folding-from-crease-patterns.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;just do it&quot;&lt;/a&gt; basic advice; and people posting triumphs about solving some super-complex Kamiya CP.  But given that some of the more prolific and complex designers don't have the time/energy to spend on diagrams for many of their models, but are still willing to publish a CP, this is a skill I'd like to master.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the learning resources I've found, it's all frustratingly lacking in hard advice or practice pieces in the middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do I need to look for in a CP to judge its difficulty level?&lt;/strong&gt;  I don't want to get so frustrated that I give up all together, but neither do I want it to be so trivial as to be boring. Is it just how dark the grey value of the printed CP is? :) Is there a good learning resource for bridging this middle ground to CP mastery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T18:35:20.913" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T20:36:39.527" Title="How do I determine if an origami crease pattern is at the intermediate level of difficulty?" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="176" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:40:41.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil paint dries because of air and light (UV), so if you want to slow down the drying process, put it in a dark place without ventilation. You probably want to cover it with something too, just to expose it even less to air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T17:40:41.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-28T18:54:34.820" Score="6" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some woodless colored pencils (Art Stix) and they have a waxy coating around them. This makes them hard to start using and to use them on their side like you would pastels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my woodless pencils, I can use a utility knife and shave it off. But the colored pencil sticks are too thin and lead to breaking, especially since some of them have started to bend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I remove this protective coating without breaking or wasting my woodless colored pencils? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T15:00:15.093" Title="How can I effectively remove the coating from woodless colored pencils?" Tags="|colored-pencils|preparation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="202" CreationDate="2016-04-28T19:38:54.930" Score="9" ViewCount="24000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently decided to take up sewing, but the stitches I use to hold two pieces of fabric together (like the side seams of a shirt for example) is a simple lock stitch. My machine (like most I've seen) has several different styles of stitches but none of them even remotely compare to the stitching I find on commercial grade clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of stitch is this? My simple sewing machine stitches are nowhere near as sturdy as the stitching I am used to seeing on clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best picture I could find online (without knowing what I'm searching for) can be seen in this picture. The stitch holding the sleeve onto the body of the shirt is much fancier than anything my sewing machine seems to offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRf8X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRf8X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;T-Shirt stiching&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livelaughlovepin.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LoveLaughPin.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T20:04:55.133" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T23:28:57.060" Title="What kind of stitch makes up t-shirt seams on commercial grade clothing?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="201" CreationDate="2016-04-28T20:03:07.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stitches that you typically see on commercial t-shirt seams are an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlock&quot;&gt;overlock stitch&lt;/a&gt;, which typically requires a special type of sewing machine specifically for this purpose (e.g., a serger). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T20:03:07.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="200" CreationDate="2016-04-28T20:25:57.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish I could test this personally but I do not have those pencils. Have you tried plastic or steel wire brushes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOLSGm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOLSGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0079G2WC2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steel(metal in general) ones might remove too much material. This could largely depend on technique. So the plastic one might be effective but so much as to remove too much material. You can keep the pencil on the &quot;table&quot; and run the brush up and down the length. Then rotate to get to the other side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have suggested sandpaper or fine steel wool (#0000) but that requires more handling that risks breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you could make that work though is to take a piece of wood and cut it so that there is a channel that would perfectly fit the contour of the pencil. Also have to be short enough so that you can hold the pencil at each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ox6Xm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ox6Xm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to glue some fine sandpaper to this block you can then work the pencil inside it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T14:58:19.447" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T14:58:19.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2016-04-28T20:31:29.300" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your models cannot be in contact with latex you can use alternatives. Since Latex comes in many forms it's not entirely clear which form you're using but I assume you're mainly referring to latex prosthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Latex&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the most common alternative would be to use silicone. Silicone is a man-made alternative to the more natural latex, and it generally ages better so silicone appliances can be stored and used later and will keep better than a latex appliance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liquid Latex&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for alternatives to liquid latex, you can use Elmer's Glue or spirit gum if you're using it as an adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found this cool site which shows you how to make a faux version of latex from home which considering your amateur nature may be appealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diypics.com/how-make-latex-fx-makeup/&quot;&gt;http://www.diypics.com/how-make-latex-fx-makeup/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T20:31:29.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1981" CreationDate="2016-04-28T20:53:39.010" Score="9" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some printed material that I would like to touch up.  These are not collectables, per se, so I'm not worried about altering the value of an antique or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not asking about any specific pen/pencil/etc brand or product.  That will just get dated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking how I can determine whether any given pen/paint/ink/etc will not change color over long times?  (e.g. many decades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:18:38.763" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T02:18:38.763" Title="Are there markers, paints, pencils, etc that are known to not change color over time?" Tags="|preservation|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2016-04-28T21:13:02.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything fades over time unless you protect it.  Primarily from light.  Sunlight is particularly damaging to colors.  So it is more preserving the item than finding something that will last.  Cave art has lasted so long because it is in a cave and generally protected from sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you also have other things to worry about.  the medium makes a difference too!  A lot of paper has a mild acid that will slowly work on the colors and break down the components that make up the pigments.  So if you have an option, you will generally want to go with acid free paper to help preserve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T21:29:04.507" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T21:29:04.507" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2016-04-28T21:25:35.503" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are green areas in the photo, although they are not bold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe your solution would be not to fade but to juxtapose bold colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yet, if you want to fade, &lt;strong&gt;painting by layers&lt;/strong&gt; will have a cleaner mix than painting in impasto (glaze a very thin blue over the yellow). Also you could use dots of each color next to each other for a vibrant optical blending (like impressionism or pointillism).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, first &lt;strong&gt;fade the colors toward grey before fading&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the ways to desaturate the colors is going into non complementary biases, like fade from a blue-green (cyan, phtalo, Prussian), into a blue-red (ultramarine, cobalt), fade that to a yellow-red (azo, cadmium) then a yellow-green (lemon yellow, Aureolin). The intermediary color will be greenish but muted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to &lt;strong&gt;use ochres and earth tones&lt;/strong&gt; (transitioning with a Venetian or yellow ochre, or muting the green color with green-earth or another greenish brown paint), and yet another way is to &lt;strong&gt;use opposite colors&lt;/strong&gt; to mute the intermediary color (i.e. mute the green with a glaze of red).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think the best way to achieve a clean contrast with high colors is to &lt;strong&gt;mix as little as possible&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T09:35:22.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="40" CreationDate="2016-04-28T21:54:50.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no simple answer, it depends on many factors like the temperature of where you live, sun and wind exposure, the amount and type of oil, the thickness of the paint, the color pigment itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the more you wait the harder it will be, but within a week should be fine. White spirit is not recommended as it will attack and unsaturate the color, so you better use a painting medium. You also run the risk of violating the lean over fat rule by using a variable quantity of white spirit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also mediums that delay the drying time, but the easiest way is to use oil as a medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-28T16:09:31.197" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T16:09:31.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="176" CreationDate="2016-04-28T22:14:28.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Light, Air, AND Temperature. After restricting the air flow like by putting the palette into a container you can put it in the fridge or even the freezer for a longer period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some painters immerse the working palette into a recipient of water in the fridge for the best air restriction, because it is oil based the paint is not altered and is workable within an hour of removing from water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;read &lt;a href=&quot;http://painting.about.com/od/oilpaintingfaq/f/freezing-oils.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://painting.about.com/od/oilpaintingfaq/f/freezing-oils.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's fine to store your oils in the freezer if you're taking a break. The cold temperature will slow the rate of oxidation and evaporation, preserving the paint.(...) &quot;...by early Renaissance times professional supplies of pigments existed ... Prepared oil paints were kept in the studio under water to prevent them from drying out.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using left over paint within &quot; the evening or even longer&quot; should not require any special method.&#xA;Otherwise, if you add oil to the paint before setting the palette aside it will be work able for days longer, and even longer with a slow dry medium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way is still to use paint little by little so not to have too much left over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T22:20:58.617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T22:20:58.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2016-04-28T22:42:52.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally a silver pen was used. see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.naturalpigments.com/art-supply-education/silverpoint-technique-art/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.naturalpigments.com/art-supply-education/silverpoint-technique-art/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the modern alternatives is the use of fixative over a graphite drawing but it is a controversial method with no longevity evidence. Charcoal will muddy the paint even worse than graphite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can paint the drawing and underpaint with any water based medium, acrylic offers a good base paint for oils if you are using a gesso primed canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still the best way is to stay within the oil family and use a thin wash of oil paint or oil based pastels washed with a thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T22:42:52.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2016-04-28T22:51:44.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always buy the best you can afford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer can get complicated, but generally the lower priced brand use only cheap manufactured pigments and fill the tubes with cheapo filler, over diluting them . The same is true for &quot;student grade&quot; version of good enough brands like W &amp;amp; N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost always &lt;strong&gt;the cheaper paints are actually more expensive than quality paints&lt;/strong&gt;, in view of the amount of actual pigments used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More expensive brands have a broader palette because they use some pigments that are more expensive to produce and some natural pigments that are more costly to acquire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T15:08:37.583" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T15:08:37.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T02:34:42.743" Score="6" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Haven't done it in a while but I used to bind my own books so that I didn't have to pay extra for really cool ones. Mostly printed computer paper from 150 for 300 pages for the contents. This is what I did as far as the spine is concerned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the pages together by gently knocking them on the table and rotating it so that I was knocking consistently in all directions. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brace the spine on either side with clamps and paint stick so that only a millimetre or two was exposed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the paper to ruffle up the fibres. Theory for that is more surface area for the glue to bind. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slighty dampen the paper on the spine to help the glue penetrate more. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added a little cheese cloth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using contact cement apply a couple of coats (separated by about day to be sure). I had tried Gorrila Glue a couple of time thinking the expansion would help but it just made the spine larger and I had to remove the curve it created.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that did work and I made about 20 books successfully. However I wasn't 100% happy with the product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes there would be single pages that did not get an equal amount of glue. So I would be using the book and open a page and turn it just to have it pop out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gauged the strength of the book by trying to lift it up by one of the pages. For the smaller ones like 50 to 100 pages this was fine. Larger one I lost the page. This might have been an unrealistic test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that one folly is that I didn't make the book in booklets where the pages were grouped together by 16 or 32 pages like you would see in conventional books. At the time this was not really available to me. Now it is more likely but I would like to know if there is a way to improve on my process above without making drastic changes. If drastic is needed so be it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps my choice of glue was bad. It needs to be strong yet flexible and preferable penetrate easy. Contact cement seemed to work fine outside of the issues I mentioned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2023-03-29T11:34:06.927" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T11:34:06.927" Title="How can I improve my binding process to get a better result?" Tags="|adhesives|paper|book-binding|technique-application|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="238" CreationDate="2016-04-29T02:41:03.213" Score="9" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a huge gamer and love pixel art in general. My friend turned me onto crocheting a while ago and one of the first things I asked about was pixel art. Her response and my own limited experience tells me that it is not realistic to do. At least not ones that have many colours. I see more pixel art with knitting which I am not sure I have room for in my creative suite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible or even advised to do pixel art by crocheting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I have a single stitch one colour while having all the ones surrounding different? Is that just too many tails to deal with and would the project be weaker as a result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T18:38:13.727" Title="Is it possible to frequently change colours while crocheting?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="229" CreationDate="2016-04-29T02:57:03.970" Score="12" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a gifted amateur when it comes to sewing - at least with a blanket stitch. Never touched a sewing machine in my life and do it all by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My kids are naturally rough with toys and their clothes. Some are better designed than others. I hate throwing things out that I know I can repair and I will sew broken seams frequently just to get a little more time out of everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that when I am mending something like a toy, when I get to the end I can't work the needle inside anymore, I end up with a stiff line that does not look good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do when I am finishing a seam and can't reach the other side? What stitch or stitches should I be using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:38:41.363" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T17:38:41.363" Title="How can I finish stitching those last few inches?" Tags="|sewing|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T03:11:26.793" Score="6" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;As discussed in the question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/201/what-kind-of-stitch-makes-up-t-shirt-seams-on-commercial-grade-clothing&quot;&gt;What kind of stitch makes up t-shirt seams on commercial grade clothing?&lt;/a&gt; we can now identify the overlock stitch. A cursory look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiki for that stitch&lt;/a&gt; shows that is way too complicated (or at least seems that way) for someone to do by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When repairing a seam on clothing what would be a good stitch to consider that can be done by hand? I mostly use blanket stitches. However, those perform poorly under stress and you can see all sorts of gaps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T18:55:00.810" Title="What stitches are strong for clothing seams when done by hand?" Tags="|sewing|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2016-04-29T03:53:23.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After stage 3 saw shallow slots across the spine, then glue strings (cords) into the slots. I would use PVA glue myself, but maybe contact cement works better for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also glue a backing onto the spine over the first layers of glue and the cords. I have used fabric but have also used cartridge paper both successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said the above I will add that printing signatures using booklet form and sewing the signatures together (then gluing and adding reinforcing ...) is far more robust than the above, and more likely to open flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T03:53:23.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="227" CreationDate="2016-04-29T04:32:51.840" Score="5" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/13/how-to-cut-a-tiny-circle-in-paper&quot;&gt;How to cut a tiny circle in paper?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did link to that question but here I am not talking about circles. I am talking about other parts of that crafts which involve curved and straight lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My family normally uses &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/Feather-Double-Blades-30-Ct/dp/B002OCANQI/ref=asc_df_B002OCANQI/?tag=googleshopdes-21&amp;amp;linkCode=df0&amp;amp;hvadid=397009518715&amp;amp;hvpos=&amp;amp;hvnetw=g&amp;amp;hvrand=9063550286563393387&amp;amp;hvpone=&amp;amp;hvptwo=&amp;amp;hvqmt=&amp;amp;hvdev=c&amp;amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;amp;hvlocint=&amp;amp;hvlocphy=1007765&amp;amp;hvtargid=pla-568539484502&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;ext_vrnc=hi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shaving blade&lt;/a&gt; for such cuttings, probably because that is the only tool readily available and crafts weren't a hobby of many of us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what is the proper tool for such kind of paper cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T13:10:14.213" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T13:10:14.213" Title="What is a proper tool for papercutting?" Tags="|papercutting|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="231" CreationDate="2016-04-29T04:37:15.130" Score="9" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Natural conclusion that we can draw from &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/13/how-to-cut-a-tiny-circle-in-paper&quot;&gt;this question about cutting small circles&lt;/a&gt; is that it is obvious the cutting tool or implement would need to be very sharp to be effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to use cemented floor for placing the paper for such papercutting when I was a child.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the tools would be that sharp they are going to affect the working surface below the paper. Another concern would be the paper moving around on that working medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the above factors, what medium should be kept &lt;em&gt;beneath&lt;/em&gt; the paper when papercutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T02:13:00.230" Title="What medium should be kept beneath the paper for papercutting?" Tags="|tool-selection|papercutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="301" CreationDate="2016-04-29T05:03:29.977" Score="6" ViewCount="1860" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assumption:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; I have painted a bird with water colours. Now I want to colour the background green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will start painting from the edges of the bird's body and take my strokes outwards. My problem with this approach is that the brush stroke directions will be visible. Also, if I get too close to the bird's body, I fear some colour will get on the bird as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover in the following painting, the painter has used different colours for the background, yet no strokes are visible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the technique to achieve such result?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the kind of paint make a difference here?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I supposed to first paint the background, then paint the bird?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDmMu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDmMu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jesuspaintings.com/bluebird_of_happiness.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-12-26T13:09:27.303" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T10:30:25.593" Title="How to paint the background of a portrait painting?" Tags="|painting|technique-identification|watercolor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="237" CreationDate="2016-04-29T05:26:22.117" Score="3" ViewCount="777" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different types of shading techniques like criss cross, straight lines, circular shading, blending, scribbling, and dot shading (drawing dots close to each other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are not hard and fast rules in drawing, but there are guidelines. Hence the question - on what factors does choosing shading technique depend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T03:47:49.740" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T12:43:48.203" Title="On what factors does choosing pencil shading technique depend?" Tags="|drawing|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="236" CreationDate="2016-04-29T05:56:30.563" Score="6" ViewCount="22090" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; For shading, I have &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;soft&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; charcoal pencil, and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;8B&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; graphite pencil.  The charcoal pencil I have does not have a specific label except the word &quot;soft&quot; written on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of them are known for dark strokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the guidelines for deciding which one to prefer for shading a flower pot among the above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does types of paper also play a role in choosing between these two types? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T22:21:21.883" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T22:25:32.867" Title="How do hard, soft, and medium charcoal pencils compare against their counterparts in graphite?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|charcoal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="243" CreationDate="2016-04-29T06:21:07.803" Score="6" ViewCount="3812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that in the following picture there are at least 3 kinds of charcoal pencils:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wooden charcoal pencil with just the word soft written on it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper wrapped charcoal pencil with 600-H written on it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;White charcoal pencil with 558 written on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there more varieties of charcoal pencils? What are their properties that make them different from each other? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does paper wrapping effect the charcoal pencil as compared to wood?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why would there be specific number written on paper wrapped pencil but not on wooden one? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrkS4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrkS4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thevirtualinstructor.com/draw-with-charcoal-pencils.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://thevirtualinstructor.com/draw-with-charcoal-pencils.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T06:29:00.360" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T17:14:53.760" Title="What are the types of charcoal pencils and how do they differ from each other?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|charcoal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="226" CreationDate="2016-04-29T08:49:23.893" Score="7" ViewCount="22078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a piece of work with chalk pastels recently. Sadly, I left it unattended on an occasion and my cats ended up approaching my sketchbook. Some of my work was smudged. On another occasion when I brought it to school for my exam, two students came to see it on two random occasions, tried to see if it's &quot;real&quot; by smudging it with their finger. By the time I tried to tell them not to, they had already done it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to protect the chalk pastel from getting smudged? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do take in mind that I am not looking forward to ideas about covering the work with another sheet of paper, primarily because of the situation I spoke of above. Rather than preventing hazards from getting to my work, I want to know if I can stop my work from smudging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T09:17:29.890" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T09:17:29.890" Title="How do I prevent chalk pastel from getting smudged?" Tags="|preservation|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="224" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-29T08:52:37.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is for questions about the art of crocheting. Examples of suitable &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/crocheting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;crocheting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;crocheting&lt;/a&gt; questions might be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I make the piece so it is not tight? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which tool/yarn should I use for crocheting this project?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be used together with e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material-selection&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/crochet-hooks&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;crochet-hooks&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;crochet-hooks&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/yarn&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;yarn&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;yarn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2495" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-08-22T13:43:10.887" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T13:43:10.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="225" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-29T08:52:37.817" Score="0" Body="The process of creating fabric through interlocking loops of material strands using a hook." OwnerUserId="65" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-08-22T13:43:10.887" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T13:43:10.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="223" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:03:13.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you've finished your work, if you need to protect it from being smudged, use &lt;strong&gt;Fixative Spray&lt;/strong&gt; that is made for specifically this purpose. Hairspray will also work in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only do this once you're finished though - since it will make it near impossible to add more chalk once it's done. If you need to transport unfinished work, do so in a tight folder, with another blank piece of paper placed carefully over the top of your work (with a bit of masking tape around the edges for extra security).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T09:03:13.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="217" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:07:47.093" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Blade&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to have a sharp knife with a sharp angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I found this image &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/oxidation-color-mobile-phone-film-graver-sharpener-knife-knife-papercut-circuit-board-cutter/32219358201.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Aliexpress&lt;/a&gt; but don't know about this particular store. The left blade is more stable than the right one, in my experience, but is also more difficult to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the blades can be replaced. This should be done rather often. Especially for fine details you need a sharp blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/oxidation-color-mobile-phone-film-graver-sharpener-knife-knife-papercut-circuit-board-cutter/32219358201.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSIRx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use a stanley knife or standard hobby knife like here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artifolk.co.uk/accessories/cutting-and-sticking/linex-hobby-craft-knives.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ck0N1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need the sharper angle of the first picture to cut sharp turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally use a much smaller blade (though with the same angle), because I have found that the big blades bend too much under pressure and therefore break earlier. Also, with a smaller blade, your hand is more close to the paper, which I find comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qd1Bm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qd1Bm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit difficult to see because of the shadow, but it has a normal end (like the right one on the first picture). We don't need the extra stability on such a small blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My knife is the SDI0491. I got it as a present, so I don't know where it was bought, but if you search for the serial number you can find it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parinenterprises.com/sdi/cutter-knives.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; seems to be the producer's page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My snap blades are called BD-100 NT Cutter Spare Blades and you can find them &lt;a href=&quot;http://hobeca.co/View-A-Product?id=38052&amp;amp;ProductName=BD-100%20Snap-Off%20Blades%209mm%20Blade%20Pack%20of%205%20%28D100%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (unfortunately, I can't find any other page than shops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Terminology&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The knife I'm using (last picture) is sometimes called a D type cutter. You can find a product overview of some producer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lion-office.com/products/nt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (I haven't tried these knifes, but they look similar). It seems characteristic to D type to have a smaller blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Haft&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have, like on the first and third pictures above, a haft with a rough surface around the place where you hold it, for better grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer a plastic haft over a metal haft because I have the impression that with metal hafts your hand can get a bit sweaty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T09:42:41.743" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T09:42:41.743" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3268" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:17:41.367" Score="11" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried making some figurines from tin by casting them in hand-carved forms in plaster. The tin was bubbling and the surface came out extremely uneven, with bubbles covering it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone off-handedly commented I failed to bake my casts, but I never got any info how to do it. What temperature, what time, what other preparations? I heard plaster becomes very brittle after thorough drying too; how to prevent that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T18:52:27.080" Title="How do I prepare plaster casts for casting tin figurines?" Tags="|sculpting|metalworking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="214" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:41:31.410" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two options: Prettier - the Ladder Stitch, and Stronger - the Baseball Stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.metroidhat.com/mother/materialstechniques.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ladder Stitch&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KcPP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KcPP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting the linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First, poke your threaded and knotted needle through the bad side of one cloth, ensuring that the knot is on the inside of the plushie. Next, pass the needle partway through the good side of the other piece of cloth at the closest location where the pieces meet. Don't pull the thread too tightly; you'll need space to perform the next step. Now that the tip of your needle is on the inside of the plushie, pass it through to the outside and pull the whole needle out. Repeat. Remember to pull the earlier stitches tight at some point, once you don't need the wiggle room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one, when pulled taut, closes neatly, holding the two halves pretty much flush with each other and looking very neat, but it isn't quite as strong as the latter, and when mistreated, it will just pull apart, revealing the needlework, crumpling the cloth laterally, and losing the whole appeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://stardustshoes.blogspot.com/2009/04/baseball-stitch.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Baseball Stitch&lt;/a&gt; - same as on a baseball ball, except pulled taut such that it forces the material to fold and crumple, is much stronger, but when pulled taut, the sides don't form such a neat, flush connection, but form a shallow groove, and the needlework may be visible if one peers into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5UEe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5UEe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just push the needle from the inner side of the material onto the outer, and cross to the other side, repeating, inner to outer. When pulled taut, it crumples the material left inside into two &quot;bars&quot;, which provide tension to the stitch preventing it from coming apart, and pressing against each other pull it inside, forming the characteristic groove. It requires much more force to break and doesn't crumple the visible surface of the cloth when strained, but if it does come apart somewhat, due to abuse, the needlework will show more, and even perfectly new it will form a deeper and more visible groove than the Ladder stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me add that in your situation, where you're repairing items that were already subjected to abuse and likely will continue to, the baseball stitch is a better choice, as despite worse initial appearance, it doesn't degrade nearly as much when abused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T17:03:35.153" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:03:35.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="213" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:59:08.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely a single stitch per pixel is too high a resolution. Think more in terms of at least 3, preferably more stitches per pixel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is that you don't cut or tie off each time you change the color - you just hold all the colors you need in continuous yarn threads and switch to a new yarn when color changes, leaving all the connections between patches of various colors on the inner side - which will be a criss-crossing mess of threads running from point to point. It's going to be tricky to keep the joint points from stretching with all the loose yarn left, so you might consider easier tasks first, if that's &quot;one of the first things&quot; you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T09:59:08.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="218" CreationDate="2016-04-29T10:38:08.977" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Self healing cutting mat&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyJkV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyJkVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this for all my craft cutting. You want to be sure that the surface you are cutting on is completely uniform so as to not cause your cutting hand to hesitate or jump. These mats are for just that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also has the added feature of not cutting up your parent's table. They are usually textured on both side to prevent both the mat and the work from moving around. This also allows the mat to be flipped over and use the other side thus extending the life of the mat. It will eventually wear out though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can usually find these in a variety of sizes to suit your need. Some companies make ones small enough that you can keep in a book if you travel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There appears to be, or at least used to be, a small mystery about what these mats are actually made of. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cutting-mats.net/self-healing-cutting-mats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One manufacturer describes it as:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;unique composite PVC vinyl material&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T12:14:40.913" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T12:14:40.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T11:42:37.603" Score="6" ViewCount="4277" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was in junior high school (long time ago), I won a drawing contest and the prize was a set of oil pastels. Never used them much over the years, but I ran into them recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone, either me or my parents at the time, threw out the original packaging and placed all my pastels in a freezer bag. While they were protected from the elements they were not protected from themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the original packaging is lost, what storage strategy can I consider for my pastels. I am thinking about container as well as long term storage concerns. For instance: How is temperature a factor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T16:55:50.913" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T16:55:50.913" Title="How can I store my oil pastels?" Tags="|oil-pastels|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="228" CreationDate="2016-04-29T12:00:01.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need to minimise bubbles in the plaster of Paris mould. I do this by mixing the plaster of Paris in a rather runny state and after pouring into the former for the plaster tapping it to release any bubbles that have formed. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plaster sets relatively quickly but even after setting is still wet and in thick sections takes a long time to dry adequately, which is why baking might be a good idea if you can't leave the mould to dry thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The mould will need a riser channel, in addition to the channel you are going to pour the metal into, to let the metal flow properly through the mould (and so you can see that it is properly filled). It will also need breather channels to let the air out of awkward corners and re-entrants.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally after the metal is poured into the mould, if it can be done safely, the mould should be tapped to help air escape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to consider is keying the parts of the mould together so that they properly align. Normally I do this by making circular/conical depressions in the first part of the mould to be formed, so the second poured onto it forms keys with these features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T15:21:09.530" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T15:21:09.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="111" CreationDate="2016-04-29T13:26:04.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of non-nickel options available, though the good ones tend to be more expensive than the mainstream options and the inexpensive ones of poorer quality. The most established options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Signature Needle Arts makes aluminum needles. These are very good (sharp points, flexible cables), but pricey and only available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boye also makes aluminum needles. These are reasonably good and reasonably priced and are probably the sweet spot for nickel-free circulars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clover makes bamboo circulars. They are inexpensive, but suffer from dull points and terrible cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New Hue Handspuns sells carbon fiber circulars. I have no personal experience with this brand, but the points and cables look at least reasonable, probably on par with Boye. Only available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addi offers plastic circulars. These are similar to bamboo in terms of price (low) and quality (meh).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T15:31:26.833" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T15:31:26.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="232" CreationDate="2016-04-29T13:53:53.167" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the main considerations for storing oil pastels are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The individual pastels are kept separate, so that they do not bleed into one another&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They are kept reasonably cool (room temperature, ~20ºC is fine)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the latter is a problem, just keep them in the fridge (although you'll want to allow them to warm up a bit before using them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the former, if you've lost the original packaging, that is a bit of a pain. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artbin.com/en/crafts/products/storage%20essentials&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Artbin&lt;/a&gt; make art supplies storage boxes of many varieties, there will probably be at least one type of box that fits your needs. There are also plenty of places that sell slightly more expensive wooden pastel boxes - these might be overkill though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a pinch, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qly4n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tray from a box of chocolate fingers&lt;/a&gt; might do too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T13:53:53.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2016-04-29T14:12:49.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used both charcoal and graphite for art projects. I have personally never combined the two in a single project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Charcoal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charcoal is generally much darker, bolder and messier. It's easy to fade charcoal or wipe it off the paper entirely if you make mistakes. Charcoal, due to its brittle nature is also easy to smudge or gently wipe to assist in your shading efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charcoal artwork needs to be treated after you're finished with the work as the particles (essentially dust) will fall from the artwork over time and may either leave dark streaks on the artwork or just cause the art to fade as the particles fall over the art or off of it all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Graphite&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphite is a slightly harder to shade with, and doesn't usually get as dark as charcoal. Some of the darker graphites, like an 8B, tend to look glossy and reflective when used over large areas. This is something charcoal does not do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphite can be easily shaded with the help of tortilons, though, and varying pressure in combination with pencil grades can give you a very wide range of shades to work with. Graphite also lasts on the paper without particles falling off and can remain in-tact for years as long as its not being touched or rubbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper you use plays a big role on the art itself. Some papers, like newsprint are great for quick charcoal sketching and practice. Charcoal easily wipes from newsprint and it's cheap, while graphite is hardly visible. Higher quality papers are less forgiving of errors, but the finished product will look nicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T14:12:49.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2016-04-29T14:21:24.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shading techniques you mentioned are generally used in pen and ink artwork. This is commonly visible in comic strips (printed in newspapers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need for these techniques in pencil, since graphite is easily smoothed into a steady transition from one color to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ink does not smear the way graphite does and you cannot effectively shade an object in pen without the use of the various shading techniques you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as which one you should use, it's all a matter of preference. Some artists choose to combine the different styles in a single work, while others pride themselves in completing an entire art project with a single style of shading (stippling is my favorite).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, you would be hard pressed to find this style of shading done in pencil, it's primarily for mediums which don't allow you to fade from one color to the other without some sort of illusion helping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T14:21:24.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="213" CreationDate="2016-04-29T16:42:54.053" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try a method called &quot;Corner to corner&quot; crochet (C2C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be relatively &quot;new&quot; and was something I was really intrigued to find out about. It's often used for making diagonal-style blankets but there are certainly examples of it being used for pixel-style art work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the benefit of being dual-sided and it does allow for semi-regular changing of yarns. Creating your own patterns should be relatively simple with some graph paper and colored pencils/markers. Here's what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.repeatcrafterme.com/2015/08/crochet-christmas-tree-pixel-square.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHIptm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Christmas Tree C2C crochet example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;click image to view project&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it does a pretty awesome job with pixel-style art and does allow for regular changing of colors. Here's a work-in-progress image for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OYT0S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OYT0S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Christmast Tree C2C work in progress&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a very in-depth video of how the basic concept of C2C crochet works on &lt;a href=&quot;http://thecrochetcrowd.com/cornertocorner/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Crochet Crowd&lt;/a&gt;. It doesn't explain the more regular color changing process but I think that's something that can be figured out using the instructions for projects like this Christmas tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best part is that the only stitches needed are chains, slip stitches and double crochets, so this should be extremely simple, regardless of skill level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that, if you're interested in really small scale, you could probably go crazy with this using steel hooks (under 2mm) and cobweb-weight yarn or embroidery floss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T17:48:37.613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:48:37.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="241" CreationDate="2016-04-29T16:47:59.820" Score="7" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm beginning to work with color, after a decade of using blacks and grays only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are helpful tools, such as gray/value finder cards that you hold up to your subject to get a good feel for which shade/tint to use. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UhMy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UhMy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reliable method to find the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_color_(visual_art)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;local color&lt;/a&gt; of a subject, using a tool or method, when bright white light is not available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T23:44:29.477" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T23:44:29.477" Title="Reliably identify the local color of a subject in non-white light?" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="246" CreationDate="2016-04-29T17:44:11.573" Score="13" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was liberating some old hand tools from my grandfather's shop again, before grandma throws them in the garbage, and found some more interesting things. This cutting tool was one of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Olu4.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Olu4.png&quot; alt=&quot;small cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is a picture of the blade removed. The cutting edge when assembled faces inside the tool. The other is the underside of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dZntS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dZntS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely designed to be hand held and has a blade with the cutting edge facing towards my hand in the picture. There is an adjustable guide that would allow cutting &quot;stock&quot; to 3 mm up to 18 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hunch is that you could trim veneer or cut of inlay stock by drawing the tool on a sheet edge but I am not sure. I can't go on anything but a hunch as there are no markings (that I can see) on the tool. &lt;strong&gt;It is possible that it is even not a wood working tool.&lt;/strong&gt; My grandfather was also an electrician but this does not seem to fit for that profession. It was also in a wood working drawer and he was pretty organized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this called, and more importantly what is it used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T01:36:28.467" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T01:45:04.473" Title="What is this small hand held cutter?" Tags="|cutting|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="239" CreationDate="2016-04-29T17:54:04.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless I am misunderstanding your question, the answer is embedded in the question itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of a good gray-scale card is to give you a &lt;strong&gt;standardized point of reference&lt;/strong&gt; for what is &lt;em&gt;true black&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;true white&lt;/em&gt;, and the intermediate shades of &lt;em&gt;gray&lt;/em&gt; in between. So if you hold that card up to your subject, the card will be illuminated under the same lighting conditions as your subject&amp;hellip; so it will experience the same color shifts that your local lighting conditions produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example, if the white in your subject looks a bit yellow under incandescent lights, the true-white (value 10) on the card will look a bit yellow, too. But as long as your subject and the value on the card look the same, you know the color of the subject is &lt;em&gt;truly&lt;/em&gt; &quot;true white.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:54:04.903" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2016-04-29T18:10:05.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how the scales are named:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HB &amp;amp; Hard (Not shown) will be your lightest B-scale. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2B &amp;amp; Medium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4B &amp;amp; Soft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6B &amp;amp; Extra Soft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find in-between values, and up to 9B, but this gives you the general idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charcoals will generally be darker, and they will be in blacks. Pencils will be lighter, and in grays. There's not a 1 to 1 relationship between the values of the charcoal scale and the graphite scale. The scale is based on the &lt;em&gt;hardness&lt;/em&gt; of the material, not by the value it produces (even though we select which one to use based on the value it gives).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pencil charcoal will leave a rougher texture and show the texture of your underlying material, and sometimes have a bit more dusting. Compressed charcoal will be much smoother in texture, more like graphite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Willow charcoal will tend to be a little more gray and smoky colored than pencil or compressed charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick and dirty comparison between some of the common types of soft scaled charcoals and pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umFbQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umFbQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, quick and dirty. (I'm working on a larger-scale version, but I need time to break in some pencils I don't use often). These were made by laying down the lightest value I could with each type. Lighting conditions were not ideal, but you can see the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T22:25:32.867" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T22:25:32.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="222" CreationDate="2016-04-29T18:42:35.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These charcoal pencils are just a demonstration of the styles of pencil you might encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wooden Coated Charcoal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first pencil, labeled &quot;soft&quot; is a softer charcoal pencil, coated in wood. Wooden charcoal pencils are generally cheaper and require a sharp blade (ex exacto knife) to sharpen them. They would not easily sharpen in a traditional pencil sharpener as the charcoal is so soft that a regular sharpener would grind and break the charcoal during the sharpening process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper Coated Charcoal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second pencil is coated in paper. Paper coated pencils are generally more expensive, but provide the ease of being able to reveal more of the charcoal by simply pulling the string and unraveling the paper rather than sharpening the pencil with a blade. The 600-H identification on the pencil is just Prang's model number for that pencil and means nothing with respect to the charcoal grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;White Charcoal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 558 is General's line of white charcoal pencil and, like the 600-H is proprietary to the company and has no real meaning with respect to the charcoal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White charcoal is obviously different from black charcoal but is used in much the same way, but in reverse. White charcoal is a great way to come back after the work is finished to really bring out highlights and shines to be a &quot;whiter than white&quot; which brings contrast and boldness to an image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White charcoal &lt;a href=&quot;http://vitruvianstudio.com/what-the-heck-is-white-charcoal/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;really isn't charcoal at all&lt;/a&gt;, but a type of pastel or Conté, often chalky and meant to be used with charcoal. It can be made from mixing white pigment with some type of binder, but the exact makings are generally proprietary and not disclosed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T19:54:52.900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T19:54:52.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="244" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-30T00:42:19.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paper is a material which comes in thin sheets typically made from wood pulp. It can be used for drawing on, folding, or creating interesting shapes. Use this tag for questions which are specifically about paper and its use in arts and crafts. Related tags include &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drawing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drawing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drawing&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/origami&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;origami&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;origami&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/papercutting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;papercutting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;papercutting&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:13:19.367" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:13:19.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="245" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-30T00:42:19.160" Score="0" Body="For questions about the selection, use and characteristics of paper in arts and crafts." OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T12:54:00.190" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T12:54:00.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="240" CreationDate="2016-04-30T01:33:27.810" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I had a hunch that this was a leather-working tool, but could only find a similar &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7JWi8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tool for twine cutting&lt;/a&gt;, until I got a nudge in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called a strand cutter, or lace cutter, or even just strander. This particular version is a vintage/antique made out of what appears to be cast iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use this, you would adjust the width of the lace you want using the knob at the top. Then, you put the flat of the adjustable piece flush against your piece of leather and pull towards you. As long as the blade is sharp, and you keep the tool flush, you'll get even strands of leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another such tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dyddo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dyddo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a modern alternative, called he Australian Strander:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3rIdAm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3rIdAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern tool performs the exact same function, except it's made from chrome-plated steel and takes replaceable carbon steel blades, so you don't have to sharpen it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVccwOlTQNo&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=54s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tandy Leather has a demonstration video here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T01:45:04.473" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T01:45:04.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="262" CreationDate="2016-04-30T04:41:07.317" Score="7" ViewCount="1033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a big issue sharpening pastel and charcoal pencils. I've tried using a traditional pencil sharpener on pastel pencils but the lead keeps breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried using a razorblade and exactoknife on the charcoal pencil but this leads to really uneven lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a pencil sharpener made for pencils with brittle leads like these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm using Conte a Paris pastel pencils and general's charcoal pencils if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-03T18:11:17.233" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T18:11:17.233" Title="Sharpener for Pastel and Charcoal Pencils" Tags="|pencils|charcoal|chalk-pastels|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="252" CreationDate="2016-04-30T04:46:34.677" Score="6" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to store a lot of charcoal and pastel drawings as I've recently gotten back into drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't afford a proper solution such as a flat file at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried about stacking the drawings on top of each that can lead to possible damage on the drawings. I also don't want to leave them exposed to dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a cheap solution that I can place between and on top of the drawings for the moment until I can afford a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T08:33:48.570" Title="Charcoal and Pastel Drawing Storage" Tags="|charcoal|chalk-pastels|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="251" CreationDate="2016-04-30T04:51:49.930" Score="9" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also see a weight associated with the art paper I buy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: &#xA;I have Bristol Board that is marked 100lbs, Pastel Paper marked 98lb, Sketch Paper marked 50lbs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T16:11:14.767" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T10:21:11.043" Title="What is Paper Weight?" Tags="|paper|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="393" CreationDate="2016-04-30T05:01:15.230" Score="9" ViewCount="1487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Copic markers for a while and realize they are alcohol based markers. However, I've recently acquired some Winsor &amp;amp; Newton Pigment Markers which seem to be something different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it's ok to use both types of markers on the same artwork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to risk trying to find out if it can potentially damage what are very expensive markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T15:58:34.080" Title="Mixing Winsor &amp; Newton Pigment Markers &amp; Copic Markers" Tags="|markers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2016-04-30T07:57:23.720" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weight is the weight of a ream (500 sheets) in the unit of uncut size, which varies with the stock type (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oki.com/us/printing/support/understanding-paper-weight/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more consistent measure of paper weight is the grams per sq metre value (gsm) which is what it says, the mass of 1 square metre of the paper, which is the area density of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-10-06T10:21:11.043" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T10:21:11.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="248" CreationDate="2016-04-30T12:37:29.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would lean toward using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;keywords=acid%20free%20tissue%20paper%20roll&amp;amp;tag=googhydr-20&amp;amp;index=aps&amp;amp;hvadid=31126742810&amp;amp;hvpos=1t2&amp;amp;hvexid=&amp;amp;hvnetw=g&amp;amp;hvrand=8990099204723022482&amp;amp;hvpone=&amp;amp;hvptwo=&amp;amp;hvqmt=b&amp;amp;hvdev=c&amp;amp;ref=pd_sl_4qnhfgi1k1_b&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;acid-free tissue paper&lt;/a&gt;.  It comes in all sizes and you can cut out sheets large enough to separate your drawings.  I think this is similar to what my sisters use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course one of the things that could help preserve them is &lt;a href=&quot;http://drawsketch.about.com/cs/howtoindex/ht/sprayfixative.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;spray a fixative&lt;/a&gt; on them, to help keep them from smudging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last if you need a physical container, there are plenty of different shaped plastic boxes, many big box stores have different options for $5-10 a piece.  Combined with the acid-free tissue paper you can store quite a few drawings in a safe location away from the elements, dust etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T12:37:29.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T16:35:09.803" Score="6" ViewCount="1626" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main things that I am looking for in a protective mask are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filter efficiency: the less chemicals I breath in, the better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comfortable and lightweight: I need to wear it for several hours straight without taking it off, having little to none odors inside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strongly positioned: i.e. an occasional touch by my arm will not make it fall off or open gaps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wonder if full-face masks and/or respirators are preferable in this case. If I am missing some key points, I'd like to read details from the more experienced users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-12-30T14:38:27.140" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T14:38:27.140" Title="What kind of mask effectively protects from spray or turpentine/solvents chemicals?" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="213" CreationDate="2016-04-30T18:38:13.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For small areas that change colors frequently, some knitters use &quot;duplicate stitch&quot;--using yarn threaded onto a darning needle to mimic one or more stitches. (TECHknitting &lt;a href=&quot;http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2016/04/duplicate-stitching-on-knitting-how-to-plus-tricks.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;describes it&lt;/a&gt; well.) For crochet it would be a bit trickier but still feasible, depending upon the stitch to mimic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use short lengths instead of letting the ends cross on the back side, or if you're finished with a color, it's possible to tuck the yarn ends into the next few stitches as you go--one end on the current row, one end on the next one when you come around to it. This works best when the crochet stitches form a solid ground (all US single = UK double or all US double = UK triple). I don't have a link; it's common when making amigurumi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T18:38:13.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2016-04-30T18:40:26.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The looseness or tightness has some effect from how close one cast-on loop is to its neighbor. I tend to cast on too tightly and have sometimes held a circular needle together with a narrower double-point. If experimenting with where you place each loop doesn't change things, you might cast on to a smaller needle than you use for the rest of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T18:40:26.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2016-04-30T18:55:00.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you looked at the Alabama Chanin books? I've read only the &lt;a href=&quot;http://alabamachanin.com/alabama-studio-sewing-patterns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sewing patterns&lt;/a&gt; one, which is meant to help readers make the stuff that A. Chanin makes and sells. It's worth a mention for the clear photos and instructions for sewing seams by hand in cotton jersey. They suggest &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Back_stitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;backstitch&lt;/a&gt;, plus hand-sewn &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zigzag_stitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;zigzag&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blanket_stitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blanket&lt;/a&gt; stitch to catch the cut edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For repairing a formerly serged hem, I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.embroidery.rocksea.org/stitch/herringbone-stitch/herringbone-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;herringbone&lt;/a&gt; or straight-up cross stitch. For side seams that aren't visible on the public side, I use backstitch. Pockets are trickier because they bear weight; I follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://tomofholland.com/category/darning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tom van Deijnen&lt;/a&gt; there and accept that some patching can be visible intentionally, and lovely in its visibility. Which sorts of seams do you have in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T18:55:00.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="134" CreationDate="2016-04-30T20:15:37.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the issue is not the cast-on but the number of stitches and the way that the sock and leg are shaped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have knitted several top-down (and toe-up) socks based on my foot circumference, which is how most patterns are measured, and been unable to fit them over the heel as written. What helps there is to plan for a few more stitches at the cuff and adjust the decreases after turning the heel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you knit a swatch or gauge sample in the round before you start the sock, it'll be easy to see how many more stitches are needed at the cuff: measure your leg's circumference at the height you'd like the sock to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another potential constraint is the height and depth of the sock heel itself. Lengthening the heel flap may help, or if you're knitting a sock with a short-row heel, consider adding short rows (which can be tricky for the heel's overall shape). Two heels with more depth, or easily adjustable depth, relative to a standard short-row heel are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fish-lips-kiss-heel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fish lips kiss&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRc3309JUyc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sweet tomato&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T20:15:37.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T20:24:30.447" Score="2" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently tried crocheting a snowflake, and the finished piece is soft and furls, as if there are way too many stitches in each subsequent row. There is only a vague resemblance between mine and the photo that came with the pattern.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I know that starching will make it firm, but will it help with the furling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I do the starching? What are the proportions of water and starch? Do I iron the snowflake after soaking in starch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T08:02:55.033" Title="How to starch crochet snowflakes (and other lace items)?" Tags="|crocheting|knitting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2016-04-30T21:26:26.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried an experiment on a square of random tan felt I had sitting around. I chose the letter &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt; because it has a good mix of straight and curved lines, so I could also get an idea of how easy a particular marker was to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clockwise, from top left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Permament Marker (Sharpie)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Washable Marker (Faber Castell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fabric Marker (Marvy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fabric Paint (Tulip)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLCHF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLCHF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Square of felt fabric with multiple marker tests&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Permanence:&lt;/strong&gt; The washable marker easily transferred color from fabric to finger. To my surprise, even the permanent marker could be smeared if rubbed with a thumb. The fabric paint and fabric marker didn't transfer color to my fingers, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional note: Because of the nature of felt, the surface threads can be rubbed around in such a way that the letter looks smeared -- even the fabric marker version. The fabric paint, however, also &quot;glued&quot; the threads in place and so the letter couldn't be distorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ease of Use:&lt;/strong&gt; This was sort of a tie. The fabric paint was the easiest, because I only needed one pass for each line I made. &lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, the felt really wicks up paint, and so it took a couple attempts to figure out how much to apply (a thin paint line expands and becomes thicker as it dries). See the purple blob to the left of the letter? That was attempt #1 :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bleedthrough:&lt;/strong&gt; Fabric paint and permanent marker showed through the most; all could be seen to some extent, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YE50E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YE50E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;backside of test swatch to compare bleedthrough&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T23:31:31.997" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T23:31:31.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="265" CreationDate="2016-04-30T22:09:54.743" Score="9" ViewCount="10410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to create wire and wire-wrapped jewelry. I know what gauge wire is appropriate for the size of the piece, but I keep buying wire that is too pliable and won't hold its shape like I would want for thin rings, ear wires, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What factors can tell me if a type of wire will be the right stiffness (aside from actually testing it in a store)? Is there anything I can do to make my wire more or less pliable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T23:13:01.820" Title="How do I get my jewelry wire to be the right stiffness?" Tags="|jewelry|wire|wire-wrapping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="247" CreationDate="2016-04-30T22:16:08.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're on the right track using a craft knife or utility knife. They get you started, but you need to finish them off with another tool to make them smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your blade is extra sharp. If you have to put too much pressure to cut down the point, you'll be stressing the insides of the pencil. It may not break charcoal &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; time, but stress fractures could make a future sharpening very frustrating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got a suitable length of your charcoal/pastel/graphite, you finish it off with a lead pointer or sanding stone. The only difference between graphite and the more brittle materials, from what I found, is how lightly you need to sand them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a pointer that's almost identical to the one I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f0JvW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f0JvW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make one yourself very easily if you have fine sandpaper lying around. It's just several sheets of sanding paper layered, so that you can peel them away when they get worn out. (Don't toss them just because they get dark/colored, as that can be tapped or blown out. I toss mine when they loose their grain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy small sanding stones, which is what they use in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxKsEJYthec&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video about sharpening General's charcoal pencils&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By sanding it, you'll be able to develop the exact tip you want. You can make it very pointed and conical, or you can sand it to be a sharp wedge, or whatever you need for your strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T22:16:08.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="264" CreationDate="2016-05-01T00:58:12.423" Score="9" ViewCount="3387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-photo_blue&quot;&gt;non-photo blue pencils&lt;/a&gt; in the pencil section all the time, and I'm wondering what their purpose is for modern artists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need one if I want to scan in drawings where I've sketched the underlying framework? Or can I just use any color that's not my final color and use my digital art program to remove it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With modern scanners, cameras and digital editors, do I still need to have a non-photo blue pencil in my artist's armory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T04:44:53.220" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T04:44:53.220" Title="Do I need a non-photo blue pencil for scanning drawings?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="263" CreationDate="2016-05-01T02:06:50.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern scanners, cameras, and digital editors pick up the non-photo blue pencil marks that earlier scanners did not. However, this color is still easily removed from the scanned image by switching to grey scale and altering the brightness and contrast. You could do this with another colored pencil pretty easily as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question depends on what type of scanner and what type of digital art programs you use. If you have a modern scanner with a modern digital art program (Photoshop, Illustrator, etc.) you could likely achieve the same result with a normal colored pencil, as long as it was different from your final inking color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T18:58:32.080" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T18:58:32.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2016-05-01T11:50:10.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three grades of hardness in jewellery wire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full-hard&lt;/strong&gt;, which is tempered wire that is very stiff. It's rarely used, because it's just &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; stiff for most jewellery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Half-hard&lt;/strong&gt;, which is hardened during manufacture but is not fully tempered and is not so hard. It's pliable by hand, but you need to use some force to do it and pliers are often easier. This is the stuff you want for most jewellery (excluding things that need to bend such as necklaces (though you should be looking at chain for those anyway)).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dead-soft&lt;/strong&gt;, which is just plain wire that hasn't been at all hardened. This needs minimal force from your hands to bend. I suspect you've been buying this kind of stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardness also depends to an extent on the material - the cheaper stuff like copper and brass is generally manufactured at softer grades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that you can also harden existing soft wire by either applying heat to it (i.e. a blow-torch or other high-intensity heat - a match won't do it) and then quenching it (drop it straight into cold water), or applying pressure to it (hammer it - just remember that this also reduces the diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ask when you're buying the wire what grade it is, or look on whatever packaging it comes in to see if it's marked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T12:23:21.657" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T12:23:21.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="253" CreationDate="2016-05-01T12:02:04.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've tried to make sure what's in this answer is accurate. However, when doing any work that can affect your own safety, always carry out your own risk assessment and consult a professional about what protective equipment you need. &lt;strong&gt;This is not professional advice.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're looking at three major types of respiratory protection (well, 4 if you really go down the serious end). They're illustrated nicely by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safetysupplies.co.uk/trolleyed/respiratory-protection/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dust masks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These are basically large-particulate filters. They're good at filtering out dust, sawdust and chippings, but you should &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; use these for chemical work - the filter just won't catch them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fine-filter half-masks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These vary much more. They're essentially the modern-day equivalent of a gas attack-mask. If you're buying one of these, talk to the store personnel about what protection it offers - some are large-particulate filter-based, others are fine-filter-based and will filter out smaller stuff, even down to chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Powered respirators&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These actively filter what's in the air to remove harmful substances. Again, the quality varies, as does the battery life.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, for if you're doing really dangerous work (such as work with airborne toxins) or you're paranoid about breathing chemicals, you can get a full oxygen system such as that used by firefighters or divers. That has the advantage that if the mask is intact, you get ~100% filtering; it has the disadvantage of being clumsy, heavy, and difficult to fit correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever equipment you get, make sure you get it from a competent reputable supplier, such as 3M.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, when doing work with chemicals, you need to look for eye protection too - many of the chemicals that can damage your respiratory system can also damage your eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T12:11:48.463" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T12:11:48.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="345" CreationDate="2016-05-01T12:13:20.960" Score="4" ViewCount="1861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to fabricate my own gesso to do gold leaf gilding on a calligraphy work to give some volume to the gilded areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a traditional recipe to prepare it at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-06T07:47:31.290" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T07:47:31.290" Title="Recipe for Gesso used in gold leaf gilding" Tags="|material-selection|gold-leaf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2016-05-01T17:18:40.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In it's basic form you are looking to choose your shading technique based on what you want your end result to look like. I only draw in pencil and usually that is a mechanical pencil or a basic HB2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of what I will refer to here is the first drawing book I really read and used: &lt;a href=&quot;http://admin.walterfoster.com/books-kits/products/learn-to-draw/Drawing-Dragons/HT295.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dragons: Learn to draw step by step&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are different types of shading techniques like criss cross, straight lines, circular shading, and dot shading&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other names for those are crosshatching (criss cross), hatching (straight lines), circular strokes (circular shading), stippling (dot shading). You also forgot to mention blending and basic scribbling. I am sure there are some other but I think that covers the basics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following picture from the book shows some of those shading techniques, done in pencil, in action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRGTg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRGTgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pencil shading techniques&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click image to enlarge and see finer detail&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these techniques are used with pen and ink they are not exclusive to those tools (Blending not so much). Since pen and ink are more permanent then say pencil some guides recommend that you do you rough drawing in pencil anyway. That would include shading as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using pencil is a simple way to get a soft and subtle appearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[W]hat factors does choosing shading technique depend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing really other than your desired end effect. As you can see in the above picture it is still a dragon regardless of the shading technique used. Personal preference would play a large role in this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a combination of cross and regular hatching as a means of having different levels of darkness but that is not the sole way of doing it. In the end it does not matter and pick whichever one would compliment the work best or whatever you think would look better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T01:10:42.340" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T01:10:42.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="267" CreationDate="2016-05-01T17:21:39.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of different recipes in the internet but they are all based in the same ingredients: white glue, white paint, talcum powder and water. The idea is just to mix the first three ingredients and then to add water until you get the desired consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take a look at different recipes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ourdailycraft.com/2015/02/10/gesso-make-gesso/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.outlook8studio.com/2014/01/16/homemade-gesso-primer-for-canvas-or-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://pixiedustscrapping.blogspot.com.es/2013/04/homemade-gesso-good-and-bad-plus-link.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="138" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T17:21:39.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1857" CreationDate="2016-05-01T17:51:25.887" Score="10" ViewCount="1243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a standard sewing machine, not a serger, so I use a zig-zag stitch when sewing knits. Typically, I just use trial and error on scrap pieces to figure out a good size of zig-zag stitch for however stretchy I want the seams to be. This can take a few tries, and I'm never quite sure if I'm doing it &quot;right&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a better way? Are there any standard sizes or rules of thumb?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When would I want a wider or narrower stitch? What about longer vs. shorter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T18:45:17.320" Title="How do I determine what size zig-zag stitch to use?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="271" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:00:51.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about selecting tools or narrowing the selection based on guidelines and criteria for your project. It can be helpful if you include your desired end result as well as other tools you might have tried. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="2" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:33:22.307" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:33:22.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="272" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:00:51.793" Score="0" Body="Selecting a tool based on requirements of a specific application or project." OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T18:31:28.747" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T18:31:28.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:10:22.083" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things that will definitely work to help preserve displayed paintings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint quality. If you want the paint to remain vibrant over time, then you get what you pay for. Artist/professional grade paints are substantially more lightfast than student or children's paints. So, if you want it to stick around better, get the good paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultraviolet light protection. If you're going to display your work, display under UV filtering glass. This helps to preserve the colors from damaging light and, as an added bonus, protects from the touch of errant fingers. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get UV archival fixative sprays that are suitable for watercolor work. It's not terribly common to do that, but becoming more prevalent amongst those that don't want glass in front of their painting. My general take is that if the paper gets dusty over time, dulling the color, it's harder to clean than glass... Mind you, for storage long term, it makes a lot of sense to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T19:10:22.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="274" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:14:35.797" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T19:14:35.797" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T19:14:35.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="275" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:14:35.797" Score="0" Body="Taking wood or lumber and making it into a variety of things from carvings to furniture. Woodworking encapsulates many more specific genres like carving, joinery, carpentry, cabinetry and furniture making. Questions are welcome about the wood, tools and skills associated to working wood. " OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:31:17.967" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:31:17.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="176" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:20:11.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For longer storage, you can seal the paint inside of an empty paint tube if the amount is fairly large. These can be purchased at better art stores for a couple of dollars and basically lets you work with it like it was any other paint in a tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For smaller amounts, you can go your own with aluminum foil. Basically, create a small pouch, doubling up to give it strength, fill it with your paint, then seal it off from the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T19:20:11.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="277" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:30:31.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tools inevitable wear out or become more susceptible to wear and other problems that prevent the tool from working efficiently. Proper maintenance and the questions surrounding that keep everything working properly and for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pencil-maintenance&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pencil-maintenance&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pencil-maintenance&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;pencil-maintenance-container&quot;&gt;pencil-maintenance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sharpening&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sharpening&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sharpening&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;sharpening-container&quot;&gt;sharpening&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T03:08:45.400" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T03:08:45.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="278" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:30:31.077" Score="0" Body="For questions about preventive or corrective maintenance of art or crafting tools that is normally performed by the end-user. Repairs normally requiring factory service are likely out-of-scope. For questions about changing, adapting, or improving tools, use [tool-modification] instead. For questions about maintaining pencils, use [pencil-maintenance] instead. For questions about sharpening, use [sharpening] instead." OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T03:08:45.400" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T03:08:45.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="324" CreationDate="2016-05-01T19:50:17.127" Score="11" ViewCount="1491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bag full of yarn from miscellaneous projects. In error, I never kept the labels for the yarn because &quot;Why would I need to keep those?&quot;. If I am going to work on a project and need a yarn of a specific worsted weight, for example, how can I match the requirement to one of my balls or skeins of yarn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn#Measurement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;small Wiki article about yarn characteristics&lt;/a&gt; I realize this might be hard to do and might just be a matter of guessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some of the names for the various weights of yarn from finest to thickest are called lace, fingering, sport, double-knit (or DK), worsted, aran (or heavy worsted), bulky, and super-bulky. This naming convention is more descriptive than precise; fibre artists disagree about where on the continuum each lies, and the precise relationships between the sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="1544" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T01:19:25.073" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T01:19:25.073" Title="How can I determine a yarn's weight?" Tags="|yarn|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="286" CreationDate="2016-05-01T20:41:29.957" Score="11" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I don't knit every day, I'd say my knitting level is intermediate to advanced. The results that I get are good, but I feel I can improve my knitting speed. (And that 'just practice more' won't help.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what techniques are used by people who can knit very fast?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'd like to find out if there is something I can do as well, to improve my knitting speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm knitting continental style (and am right handed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="2994" LastEditDate="2017-12-12T18:54:16.403" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T18:20:09.640" Title="How can I knit faster?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="287" CreationDate="2016-05-01T21:03:31.497" Score="4" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been learning to knit and crochet by looking at various tutorials online. In the pictures and/or videos, the fingers are often positioned with respect to the needles or yarn in ways that don't feel comfortable or natural to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the relative position of fingers, yarn, and needles very important to get stitches right, or is this more of a recommendation and I should find my own way to get the loops where they need to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T01:27:08.983" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T01:27:08.983" Title="How important is hand/finger position in fiber crafts?" Tags="|knitting|crocheting|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="288" CreationDate="2016-05-01T23:56:12.973" Score="9" ViewCount="47599" Body="&lt;p&gt;We often use craft sticks in kids projects, but I have issues whenever I need to cut them. They'll often split down the grain, all the way through the stick, making it useless. This happens no matter which direction I'm cutting, but it's only useful if I'm trying to split them lengthwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can cut these sticks reliably, without tossing every other one out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T13:18:21.253" Title="How can I cut popsicle craft sticks without splitting them?" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:20:15.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a scroll saw, band saw, or copping saw.  No warranties, given or implied.  Use this set of suggestions at your own risk.  Use proper ear and eye protection.  Make sure you have proper current prescription glasses if needed. Stacking and taping them may make them more stable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've thought this over again, my ONLY recommendation would be to make a jig, on a scroll saw. Use the finest blade you may have, even perhaps a metal cutting blade, with the smallest curf (spread of the teeth/width of the cut). After proper adjustment, you should be able to make exact center cuts! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T18:08:03.397" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T18:08:03.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:25:29.833" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple suggestions.  If you knit in the French Method, try the German Method. If you knit in the German Method, try the French Method.  Try a peg loom knitting.  Or even machine knit. Else Weave &amp;amp; Sew, an entirely new topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knitting with the yarn in the hand opposite the working needle (i.e. the left hand if the knitter is right-handed) is commonly referred to as Continental knitting, German knitting, European knitting, or left-hand knitting. The term 'left-hand knitting', however, is discouraged by left-handed knitters because it leads to misunderstandings. Unlike English knitting, the tip of the working needle is used to hook the yarn and bring it forward; the motion is thus sometimes known as picking. Continental knitting can be done at a greater rate than English knitting, as the stitches are formed closer to the needle points and the yarn has a shorter travel...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;English knitting, also known as right-hand knitting or throwing, is a style of Western knitting where the yarn to be knit into the fabric is carried in the right hand. This style is prevalent throughout the English-speaking world, though it is by no means universal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other Western knitting styles include continental knitting (also known as &quot;left-hand knitting&quot;) and combined knitting. Despite the names, choice of knitting style has little to do with the handedness of the knitter; plenty of left-handed individuals use the English style, and plenty of right-handed knitters use Continental. Various non-Western styles also exist, many of which are substantially similar to these, but which twist each stitch, making for a subtly different-looking fabric... but this can also be called French Knitting... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T02:41:55.193" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T02:41:55.193" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="281" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:44:41.180" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The finger positioning—actually the way the yarn loops around the fingers—controls the overall tension of the yarn. Think of it like the path the thread takes on a sewing machine—all those ups, downs and arounds between the thread spool and the needle to make a nice even stitch on the fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately the yarn path around the fingers is much more forgiving than the thread path on a sewing machine—get that wrong and…yikes, thread ball and swear words! If you find a finger/yarn position that you're comfortable with while you're learnings knit or crochet, go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was learning to knit and crochet the finger positions never made any sense to me either, I just kept getting all tangled up! My solution was to hold the yarn out of the way between my index and middle fingers until I learned to get all the loops in the right place. Not very elegant but it worked for me because I had some tension control as the yarn ran between two fingers. Eventually I naturally settled into the &quot;proper&quot; finger position as my stitch technique improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T00:44:41.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:47:31.410" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Craft sticks and Popsicle sticks are not known for their quality when it comes to grain and warping. So when you are cutting them, the stress is released in the easiest way possible which is along the grain. This is especially true because of how thin they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the following methods should work. They are both related in that I am suggesting multiple cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Scoring&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to do one cut you should try and score your sticks first. Scoring will help guide the break and prevent it from going through the rest of the stick. So, score it once then do the rest of the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Multiple shallow cuts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially scoring all the way though. The slower safer method is cut though the sticks in several successive cuts. Use a ruler to help cut straight so you can focus more on your depth of cut. Put more sticks under the ruler to help keep it flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you need a thin and sharp blade. You want to &lt;em&gt;cut&lt;/em&gt; the fibres of the sticks and not &lt;em&gt;push&lt;/em&gt; them apart. So something like standard scissors would be a bad choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T18:06:39.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:55:42.607" Score="6" ViewCount="1493" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/286/44&quot;&gt;an answer to a question about knitting faster&lt;/a&gt;, there is a reference to knitting methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a couple suggestions. If you knit in the French Method, try the German Method. If you knit in the German Method, try the French Method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the German method?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the French method?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the common methods go in modern knitting with two standard sized needles, is that all or is there more? I don't know if standard is the right word but I mean neither small nor exorbitantly large independent needles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2018-02-17T15:58:40.507" Title="What are the different methods of knitting with two needles?" Tags="|knitting|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2016-05-02T01:36:32.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the wire I see in the stores today is mostly copper or something bonded to copper and it's usually dead soft. Here are some tips and tricks I have learned over time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hammering:&lt;/strong&gt; A regular jewelry hammer will change the shape of the wire unless you use a jewelry hammer with a rubber or nylon head. It really only works on flat pieces and is kind of time intensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nylon Jaw Pliers:&lt;/strong&gt; Pulling the wire through nylon jaw pliers one or more times before you work with it will not only work-harden the wire, it will also straighten out any kinks or bumps in the wire. Use pliers with replaceable nylon pads because they do wear out eventually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steel Wool:&lt;/strong&gt; Pulling uncoated (copper, sterling silver, fine silver, brass, gold-fill, etc) through fine steel wool (#000 or #0000 if I recall) will not only clean and straighten the wire but will work harden it a bit as well depending on how many times you pull it through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tumbling with Jewelry Shot:&lt;/strong&gt; Placing the finished piece in a jewelry tumbler (assuming any stones used are safe to tumble) with jewelry shot, water, and a little soap is a favorite of mine since the whole finished piece gets thrown in. After several hours the finished piece is hardened and much shinier as well! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buying Harder Wire:&lt;/strong&gt; Make small rings, earwires, and smaller items with half-hard wire. My personal favorite is 21-gauge half-hard for earwires for earrings that aren't very heavy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buy Ready-Made Components:&lt;/strong&gt; I like working with copper wire but I don't like it for ear wires for a number of reasons, it really is too soft and there are some metal sensitivity concerns for some people. I will often finish off copper earrings with purchased rose gold or rose gold plated ear wires. The color still matches and they're much harder than I can ever work harden copper wire. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list is probably not complete but contains things that I have done and have worked for me. Some things may work for your piece and some may not. You might have to experiment to see what works for the particular type of wire you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T01:36:32.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="291" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-02T01:52:03.843" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T01:52:03.843" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T01:52:03.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="292" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-02T01:52:03.843" Score="0" Body="Questions about selecting and applying adhesive agents on your projects. " OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:35:22.160" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:35:22.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T02:41:38.730" Score="7" ViewCount="5166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a woodworker and I really like turning.  While I've made some beautiful goblets on my lathe, I'm always a little leery about recommending them for actual drinking.  On top of that many of them do crack because of flaws in the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've seen where people will buy fairly cheap wine glasses and cut the stem off, and attach them to some hand turned base.  This can look nice and opens up a host of possibilities.  However, I don't know the what method would work to hold the two materials together securely.  Epoxy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T23:39:04.557" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T17:20:24.940" Title="What are good methods to attach glass to wood?" Tags="|wood|glass|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T02:45:30.763" Score="-1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to have long, straight, wire that is coated.  I cannot think of a way to put a thin (electrically insulating) coating on a wire, while also allowing that the wire will be long a straight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long, in this case, is 16&quot; to 36&quot;.  &quot;Thin&quot; probably means the wire is 1-2mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to twine two of these wires (thinner?), so they are stronger together.  This will require I get them straight again.  Not sure how to do that without lots of effort.  If I got the twining tight enough, maybe I could re-coat it so that it looked more smooth despite the twining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I'm open to how to accomplish this, and any degree of hand-making or pre-bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="63" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T03:02:12.327" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T13:06:29.060" Title="Is there a way that I can have two long straight wires that are coated?" Tags="|wire|wire-wrapping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-05-02T17:12:39.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="293" CreationDate="2016-05-02T03:01:53.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Epoxies are the essential answer to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are affixing two materials that can expand or contract quote a bit, you need to choose an epoxy that will not shrink and risk cracking the glass.  The wood should be ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here, the answer would turn into a bevy of brand recommendations.  I think you should look for what is available to you, and decide one that matches your 'mechanical properties', color, hardening process, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used &quot;Acraglas&quot; for a nearly-identical purpose.  It only comes in brown color, from what I know.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T03:01:53.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="310" CreationDate="2016-05-02T03:43:28.643" Score="2" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;Type of paper may have an effect on the medium of drawing used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which kind of paper should be preferred for graphite, charcoal, and pencil colors, respectively?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, please mention the standard name for said paper type. (This will be helpful while purchasing the paper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:28:11.930" Title="Which kind of paper should be selected for graphite, charcoal, and pencil colors?" Tags="|paper|drawing|pencils|charcoal|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-02T19:32:49.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="298" CreationDate="2016-05-02T03:53:48.507" Score="11" ViewCount="2745" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different types of shading techniques like criss cross, straight lines, circular shading, blending, scribbling, and dot shading (drawing dots close to each other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I draw and shade everything by holding the pencil the same way I hold it for writing simply because I don't know better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does holding the pencil in a particular way for particular types of shading result in better outputs? If yes, then please guide how to hold the pencil for different kinds of shading methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:40:33.890" Title="Do I need to hold the pencil in different ways for different kinds of shading methods?" Tags="|drawing|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="297" CreationDate="2016-05-02T05:19:02.700" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Standard Tripod&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're working on a horizontal plane, such as a flat desktop, you're probably using the standard grip (also known as the writing grip or tripod grip) for your pencil. This grip is good at doing fine detailed work and short strokes. &lt;strong&gt;That makes it very helpful for doing all the methods you mentioned, &lt;em&gt;when the scale is small&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. That is to say, when the strokes you're making are small and detailed. You can do very fine crosshatching on a very large piece, or do large crosshatching on the same piece. When drawing at an incline, such as on an easel or drafting table, this grip is generally only used for detail work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Paintbrush/brush Grip&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This grip has you hold the pencil further up the shaft and along your index finger (see pictures). This grip makes it easier to apply lighter strokes to your piece. &lt;strong&gt;If your shading method requires you to apply strokes of different pressure, this grip may help you more.&lt;/strong&gt; Building up your values one &amp;quot;layer&amp;quot; of shading at a time is a very common method, used with or without the aid of blending. &lt;strong&gt;The standard grip makes it easy to press too hard, often making the brush grip a better choice for building up value.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can combine the pressure control with any of the methods you listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgHnP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgHnP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXJRKm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXJRKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Underhand grip&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I call this one underhand, but I've seen it called violin bow grip and also drumstick grip. Basically, you hold the pencil between the tips of your thumb and index finger, but your palm faces up (see picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chiseledrocks.com/main/musings/topics/how_to_hold_the_pencil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The site I used for the picture&lt;/a&gt; already has a great explanation of what kinds of shading this is used for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This grip is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; preferable basic drawing grip. It does not need a propped arm, and the motion range is limited only by your arm span; it produces flowing, economical sweeping line and is ideal for rough sketching, &lt;strong&gt;hatching and tonal work with the side of lead&lt;/strong&gt;. It works best on big page and a near-vertical plane (paper pinned to board), and is the preferred grip in academic drawing. It enables working with the lead’s side, for darker flowing lines and shading. It cannot be used with Wacom stylus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This really is the best grip for using the side of the lead, especially when you're using a properly-sharpened pencil. &lt;em&gt;Using the side of the lead allows you to lay down varying widths of solid tone. That makes this grip ideal for certain types of blending.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This grip also allows you to make fairly detailed hatch/crosshatch marks, although not as detailed as the standard grip. Generally, when you use this grip you keep your wrist stiff and move the pencil with your shoulder and elbow. However, you can flick your wrist to get some consistent, finely detailed lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of this grip hinted at in the quote: you can't use it when drawing on a horizontal surface. You need an incline and room for your elbow to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd find it pretty hard to do detailed work with this grip, or do any sort of stippling/dotting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXonC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXonC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other grips&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other grips out there, but the point here isn't to list the pros and cons of them all. These are the 3 basic grips, and the rest are essentially variations of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T05:19:02.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="294" CreationDate="2016-05-02T13:06:29.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well home electrical wire is already prewrapped and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/wire-gauge-vs-dia.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;14 gauge wire&lt;/a&gt; is 1.6mm in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTMBe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTMBe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House wire has 3 single wires (4 if 3-way) running through the main housing, and it will have one bare wire and 2 (or 3) wires individually coated.  Granted your colors are limited to black, white and red but you can get some very straight coated wires this way.  Just get a length of the wire you need and then strip off the outer shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/34Pjk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/34Pjk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T13:06:29.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="305" CreationDate="2016-05-02T13:45:23.860" Score="3" ViewCount="27511" Body="&lt;p&gt;This probably comes up more often than people would like, but how does one clean spray adhesive (at least the 3M brand) from various materials? In particular fabric or self-healing cutting mats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T03:58:55.127" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T18:43:29.250" Title="How to clean off spray adhesive?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="219" CreationDate="2016-05-02T13:53:36.017" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paint does make a difference in whether or not you can easily paint over the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watercolor, for example, does not easily cover other art and you would need to use a different technique for the background if you used this medium. Most other paints (like acrylics or oil) are thick enough that you can easily paint over the background without any effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thicker paints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With thicker paints you should paint the background of the image, get it as you like it, and then paint your subject over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has the down-side of not being very forgiving should you make mistakes to your main subject, fixing the background after touch-ups will be challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thinner mediums&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With thinner mediums like Watercolor you would want to paint them independent of each other and not overlap them. I, personally, would paint the subject first and then follow with a watercolor background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With watercolor you can use a common technique where you apply water to the paper before using any color. Carefully outline the dry subject with a wet brush and once the paper is wet, carefully apply your color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water will pull the color out of the brush and disperse it to the wet areas neatly without spillage. If you make a mistake with the wet brush, simply let it dry and try again before applying color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T13:53:36.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T13:58:04.160" Score="6" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to print a motif on a polyester felt. I have the motif drawn in a vector graphic file on my computer, and would like to transfer it on the felt. What techniques are available to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T18:06:21.190" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T15:38:44.967" Title="Printing a motif on felt" Tags="|felt|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="297" CreationDate="2016-05-02T14:15:23.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shading Techniques&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the shading techniques you mentioned are primarily used for pen-and-ink projects and are not commonly used when shading with a pencil. Special techniques like the ones you mentioned are required for pen and ink projects because pens don't naturally provide a way to fade from light to dark the way graphite does. Since an area is either black or white when using a pen, special techniques are used to demonstrate the illusion of shade when in fact it's all jet black or stark white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LC5ID.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LC5ID.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pencil Shading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for shading with a pencil, I find the sharpness of the edge to be more important than the angle of the stroke. If you are using a freshly sharpened pencil you'll likely wind up with dark hard lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a rounded or dull tip allows you to shade more evenly and smoothly without the need to hold the pencil at an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have softer strokes (from using a rounded or dull pencil), they can easily be blended together with a tortillon. A tortillon is rolled paper, designed to help smooth the strokes of a pencil and improve the smoothness of your shading. A properly shaded sphere in pencil is depicted below with the use of a tortillon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TzGs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TzGs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:40:33.890" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:40:33.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T14:31:58.417" Score="32" ViewCount="12844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grew up using normal desks in school and drawing in art class on tables. I have drawn on tables for most of my projects, but every artists desk has a lift to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of the varying angles of lift to the desk? Is this just a matter of ergonomics or is there some advantage to the artist to drawing on an angle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were an ergonomic consideration you'd think a writer's desk would look the same, but almost all other desks are flat with the exception of drawing desks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xEtWd.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xEtWd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:29:12.540" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T19:14:49.013" Title="What is the advantage of having an angled drawing desk?" Tags="|drawing|tool-selection|sketching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="300" CreationDate="2016-05-02T15:01:37.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Always make sure to test any solvents on a piece that you don't mind ruining first&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Man-made fibers and plastics can interact quite unexpectedly with solvents. Since most 3M spray adhesives aren't water soluable (per the MSDS), solvents are going to be the trick for removing overspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.perfectfit.com/24783/155885/Upholstery-Adhesives/3M-Super-77-Super-Spray-Adhesive.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PerfectFit.com&lt;/a&gt; has some good suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removing overspray&lt;/strong&gt;. Adhesive overspray is always better prevented than&#xA;  removed. But several common solvents can help clean it off, including&#xA;  mineral spirits, turpentine, citrus-based cleaners or 3M™ Adhesive&#xA;  Remover. Be sure to follow proper precautionary measures when using&#xA;  solvents!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On hands&lt;/strong&gt;, apply baby oil, cooking or vegetable oil, followed by soap and water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On furniture&lt;/strong&gt;, use a furniture polish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On fabrics and carpet&lt;/strong&gt;, first remove as much glue as possible with masking tape. Then dab the surface with a cloth dampened with one of&#xA;  the solvents listed above. &#xA;  Or spraythe surface directly with 3M™ Adhesive Remover or a citrus-based cleaner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Always test solvents and cleaners on inconspicuous areas of fabric or&#xA;  carpet first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T15:20:56.337" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:20:56.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="306" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-02T15:49:59.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Efficient storage makes crafting easier to manage and can help keep materials and tools in better shape for future work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T16:38:28.713" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T16:38:28.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="307" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-02T15:49:59.287" Score="0" Body="Storage is the method or space used to store tools, materials, and (finished) projects. Use this tag if your question is about the selection, construction, or maintenance of storage." OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T19:33:48.777" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T19:33:48.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="304" CreationDate="2016-05-02T16:11:01.943" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several advantages!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ergonomics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'll start with the one you mentioned. If you regularly draw on a horizontal surface, you'll spend a lot of time with your head down. This is terrible for your neck! It can lead to sore, tight muscles. Or, if you have neck problems (like I do), it can be downright painful to even try to draw like that for any length of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Perspective&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the desk at an incline allows you to have a better vantage point of your work. You can more or less have your eyes even with the center of the work piece. This means you're less likely to distort your drawing with perspective problems. When you're head down on a flat surface, your visual focal point is generally aligned to a single spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand what I mean, take a look at this sidewalk chalk art.&#xA;This is how it actually looks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RUNxkm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RUNxkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it looks from a specific vantage point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QzGPym.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QzGPym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of drawing on a flat plane, you may end up drawing a distorted, stretched out image, but your mind perceives it as perfectly proportional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can avoid that by using measurements and taking breaks to look at the piece from different angles, but it's a little more work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Drawing grip&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, this can be the biggest advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having an inclined plane allows you to use an underhand or paint brush grip with ease. These grips allow you to control your pencil by using your shoulder and elbow, instead of your wrist. Long, even, consistent lines are possible when using your whole arm. These grips, and your lines, will have a more natural and relaxed feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these grips aren't necessarily a benefit for all types of drawing. Generally, I'll use them for life drawings and similar work, but not for small character sketches. I still use an inclined drafting desk or tabletop easel whenever I can, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T16:11:01.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="259" CreationDate="2016-05-02T18:20:48.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is difficult to answer without knowing exactly what your finished unstarched piece looks like. Even with a lot of &quot;extra&quot; stitches in each row you should be able to eventually create a flat piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't made snowflakes in years so I don't remember the exact process but if I were to do one today I would probably do something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet the finished piece with water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On an ironing board (because the cover/padding is soft) I would lay the damp (or wet, doesn't matter) piece out as flat as I could and then using straight sewing pins I would start stretching and &quot;anchoring&quot; all the the edges by poking the pins down into the ironing board padding. If you have a fancy ironing board cover you might want to rethink making pin holes in it but a fabric cover is okay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once your piece is stretched out and evenly anchored with pins let it air dry (it should hold its shape).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your iron and turn it on to a heat setting appropriate for the type of yarn/thread you used, hopefully your thread can tolerate at least the lowest steam setting. You will be pressing the snowflake &lt;em&gt;before starching&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now with your iron heated up (and hopefully steaming) carefully remove the pins &lt;em&gt;from one point only&lt;/em&gt; of the snowflake and gently press the iron onto that point. You might want to use a thin cloth or pressing cloth between the iron and the snowflake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat for all of the snowflake points and gently press with the iron. You should now have a nice flat snowflake. Allow it to fully cool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is point where you mix the starch. If I recall I used &lt;em&gt;Lacy's Stiff Stuff&lt;/em&gt; (available at U.S. craft stores). I would think that &lt;em&gt;Mod Podge&lt;/em&gt; could also be used but I haven't tried that. The consistency should be just thin enough to soak into the fiber without gooping up on the surface. You want it to be able to penetrate but not puddle too much underneath.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully place the flattened, cooled snowflake on a piece of waxed or parchment paper and carefully apply the stiffener/starch with a craft brush, allowing the starch to soak into the fibers of the snowflake. Get as much stiffener as you can to soak in without it pooling underneath.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While the stiffener is still wet I like to add a bit of superfine iridescent glitter because I'm crafty. Allow the snowflake to fully dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully peel the snowflake from the waxed paper and admire your handiwork!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's just one way to do it. As I was typing I realized that you could skip the ironing step entirely and just soak the newly-crocheted piece in the stiffener until it is saturated then place it on the waxed paper and &quot;coax&quot; it into shape as it dries with your fingers and/or pins as above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you use waxed (or parchment) paper between the snowflake and the ironing board (or other pinnable surface) if you're using pins. Let it dry fully and you have the same result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used both methods. Going through the ironing steps at least let me know what the finished product would look like and if it's even going to look good before wasting stiffener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T18:20:48.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2016-05-02T19:28:11.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many types of paper finishes and each have their own unique characteristics you, the artist, can decide which you want to use. With that in mind, there are some guidelines you can use to select the best paper for your project:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper for Graphite&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smooth Bristol (Strathmore) papers are ideal for graphite drawings. They provide a smooth surface ideal for pencil drawings. some others include &lt;em&gt;Stonehenge&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Pastel Paper (Strathmore)&lt;/em&gt;, and Strathmore 400 and 500 series drawing paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Stonehenge Paper:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iHii.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iHii.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper for Colored Pencils&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colored pencils require a little texture to the paper to effectively draw and blend colored pencils. There is a much wider variety of viable papers in this category, but some include: &lt;em&gt;Stonehenge&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Illustration Board&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Suede&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Artagian&lt;/em&gt; paper (Strathmore).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper for Charcoal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charcoal is a chalky and generally messy medium. It requires a porous or textured paper to effectively hold the charcoal particles on the paper. Simple quick charcoal sketches are often done on Newsprint paper due to its lightly porous nature, and its low cost (sketching can burn through paper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vilJN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vilJN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For finished works using Charcoal there is &lt;strong&gt;Laid Paper&lt;/strong&gt; which has an old &quot;hand made&quot; style and feel to it. This finish contains horizontal and vertical lines on the paper which create small grooves that are good at catching bits of charcoal and keeping charcoal on the page where it was placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w7SHl.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w7SHl.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:28:11.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="311" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-02T19:30:51.873" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T19:30:51.873" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T19:30:51.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="312" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-02T19:30:51.873" Score="0" Body="A process to achieve desired results." OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T20:55:11.733" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T20:55:11.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T20:08:26.350" Score="16" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the basic concept of how a sewing machine works. I also know there are many varieties of sewing machines e.g. they are capable of doing their own sets of stitches and what not, supporting different materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was going to pick up a modern unit second hand what should I be paying attention for i.e. Any particular things I need to be looking for or testing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Narrowing down my criteria I would say, I am looking for a machine which would help me do basic stitches and hems on clothing and other thin materials.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T10:53:03.453" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T15:04:33.133" Title="What criteria should I be considering when looking at a second hand sewing machine?" Tags="|sewing|tool-selection|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="313" CreationDate="2016-05-02T21:09:34.107" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Basic requirements&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a basic sewing machine that does hems and maybe some simple garment sewing... I'd look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basic stitches - running stitch, zig zag, blind hem stitch &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjustable tension - to accommodate lighter fabrics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjustable stitch length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reverse (almost all modern machines have it, it's just handy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Choices&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to sew buttons you also may want to know how the button holing works.  Technically you can make a button hole with what I just described, but many machines have slick ways to make the process easier or to make the button holes come out nicer.  If you think button holes will be a frequent task, make sure you like and understand how this feature works on this model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bobbin winding - every machine will have a way to wind the bobbin, but how easy/hard it is can be a real point of satisfaction for the user.  Make sure you like and understand how this process works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needle threading - most modern machines have a light near the needle to make this easier.  But also - how do you thread the machine - it's always more than sticking the thread in the eye of the needle.  If learning to thread the machine makes you want to cry, this is not the machine for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bobbin winding and needle threading are steps you'll do almost every time you sew (sometimes more than that!) so if you hate the steps or find them really hard, it's worth it to keep looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly - every machine will have a presser foot and a way of lifting/dropping the needle - there's no right or wrong, but it's a comfort issue... like going on a test drive of a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Quality checks when buying&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be sure you can sew with the machine.  Unless you really like a good mystery, get a test drive of the machine.  Not only does it clarify the choices, but it lets you make sure the machine works.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know and check that you've got all the feet and any other &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/blog/beginners-guide-sewing-sewing-machine-parts-reference-guide/&quot;&gt;parts&lt;/a&gt; - check online what the model was sold with.  Be sure the parts are there: presser feet, button holing add-ons, the foot pedal controller and all wires, darning plate and any add-ons, spool pins or other add-ons for holding various types of thread and bobbins.  Personally, I wouldn't sweat a missing instruction book, but I'd verify I could get a copy online if I were a more novice seamstress.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at the shape of the machine - it should have a regular and even hum and the needle should go up and down easily without breaking, or slipping gears.  The needle should be able to catch thread in the bobbin easily, and not slam into the darning plate.  Changing settings should produce an obvious change in the outcome when sewing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T00:30:00.820" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T00:30:00.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="316" CreationDate="2016-05-03T11:53:10.060" Score="9" ViewCount="2718" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are good tools to carve in corks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjBUZm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjBUZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Actually, I'm using a simple kitchen knife but I guess there are better choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to carve some chess pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T12:16:00.290" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T15:45:17.280" Title="What are good tools for carving in cork?" Tags="|tool-selection|carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="315" CreationDate="2016-05-03T12:19:53.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would lean toward scalples/X-Acto knives.  They a are very sharp, and the blades lend themselves to carving small details well.  They are designed for detailed work unlike kitchen knives which are designed to cut things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/of2Yt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/of2Yt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Camil pointed out in the comments, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/19-Hobby-Knife-Blade-TE01-193/41739432&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;heftier blade&lt;/a&gt; might be needed to start with the larger roughing cuts so it doesn't snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T12:32:09.863" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T12:32:09.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="281" CreationDate="2016-05-03T14:15:51.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why reinvent what others have already worked out, if you don't have to? :) That said, it is definitely possible to learn to keep tension on the yarn or thread with nonstandard finger positions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a person has hypermobile joints (as I do), it may not be possible to get the fingers into the &quot;correct&quot; positions for knit or crochet. (Or tat, but I haven't adapted tatting motions for myself yet.) In that case, full speed ahead on determining what works idiosyncratically! If the hand or wrists cramp or become shaky after a few minutes of practice, it's worth troubleshooting what may have caused it and which alternative motions/holds avoid it, instead of trying and trying to emulate what's &quot;correct.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple &quot;correct&quot; positions for knit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omgheart.com/2011/04/05/need-for-speed-a-study-in-knitting-positions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OMG! Heart&lt;/a&gt; links to several videos with examples and analyzes them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T14:15:51.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2016-05-03T14:21:43.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only yarn thickness but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/11/determining-yarn-weights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wraps per inch&lt;/a&gt;, whether the yarn has been spun &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woolen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;woolen&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worsted&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;worsted&lt;/a&gt; style (nothing to do with the weight), and the type(s) of fiber matter for matching. In plainer words, it seems fairly obvious: if two yarns have the same labeled weight (&quot;DK,&quot; let's say) but one is 100% wool, worsted spun, and the other is 50/50 wool/tencel, they will look and feel different, with different densities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wraps per inch are more accurate than &quot;sport&quot; versus &quot;DK&quot; and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T14:21:43.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:27:02.897" Score="9" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that the names of stitches are different between the US and UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a pattern from the UK, how do I convert it to the US terms or vice versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:27:02.897" Title="What are the equivalents between US crochet stitch terms and UK terms?" Tags="|crocheting|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="319" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:27:02.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, if you are familiar with reading charted patterns, the icons are the same, so the only issue is if you don't know how to read charts or if you prefer to read written out patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of the terms are the same - &amp;quot;chain stitch&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;slip stitch&amp;quot;. Most of the rest can be somewhat easy to remember if you can remind yourself that the UK has no &amp;quot;single crochet&amp;quot;, so most of the numbers are incremented up one in the UK version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;US Term ----------------------- UK Term&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;chain ----------------------- chain&#xA;slip stitch ----------------- slip stitch&#xA;single crochet -------------- double crochet&#xA;half double crochet --------- half treble crochet&#xA;double crochet -------------- treble crochet&#xA;treble crochet -------------- double treble crochet&#xA;double treble crochet ------- triple treble crochet&#xA;front post double crochet --- raised front treble crochet&#xA;back post double crochet ---- raised back treble crochet&#xA;fasten off/bind off --------- cast off&#xA;skip ------------------------ miss&#xA;gauge ----------------------- tension&#xA;yarn over ------------------- yarn over hook&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T19:27:02.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="335" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:30:04.217" Score="9" ViewCount="2233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace some nibs I ruined, and in the meantime I need to store what's left for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about preparing them for storage? Is there a difference between storing cartridge pen and dip pen nibs I should know? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T06:54:00.693" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T12:18:10.363" Title="How should I store my nibs for long periods?" Tags="|calligraphy|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="325" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:53:03.687" Score="3" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I almost never see patterns sold with yarn or those online using the long forms of stitch and technique names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, most proper beginner tutorials almost always have a legend for this sort of thing but not always. The intermediate to advanced ones I would think expect you have learned this by now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the common stitch and actions abbreviations that are found in patterns and what are the long forms of them? Are there any distinctions when it comes to US/UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T22:21:05.337" Title="What are the common abbreviations in crochet patterns and more importantly what do they mean?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="331" CreationDate="2016-05-03T20:10:29.803" Score="6" ViewCount="1629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that ink in fountain pen cartridges is a bit thinner. Can I still use it for dip pens if I squeeze it out of the cartridges? I have an excessive amount of this ink, and might not go back to using cartridge fountain pens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't work right out of the cartridge, can I mix something in it to make it usable? Or evaporate it somehow? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T14:52:36.677" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T06:50:06.833" Title="Can I use cartridge ink for dip fountain pens?" Tags="|calligraphy|ink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2016-05-03T21:20:48.660" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are apparently several different methods for finding &lt;strong&gt;about&lt;/strong&gt; what weight you're dealing with. All of these can have their own downsides but they're worth considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, realistically, if you can't tell whether something is &amp;quot;sport&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;DK&amp;quot; but you know it's one of the two, it's probably not going to throw you off too badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the US and the UK have different terms for the same weights of yarn but that since stores sell yarn from around the world, you're likely to run into all of them regardless of where you live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Wrapping&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/11/determining-yarn-weights/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wrapping&lt;/a&gt; is a method of testing the weight by seeing how many widths of yarn fit in an inch of space. It looks a bit like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqbZB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqbZB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wrapping to measure yarn weight&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can wrap around the ruler itself or around something else like a pencil. The fewer widths of yarn that fit in an inch, the heavier the yarn is. Note that for thicker yarns, you might want to wrap more than an inch and divide to get a better count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of this is that not everyone wraps the same and yarn is squishy. They yarn in the image is very neatly wrapped but you could easily squash it together and get another 3-4 wraps in that inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Ply or strands&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Generally&lt;/em&gt; heavier-weight yarns have more strands. This can be finicky with smaller weight yarns and it won't always give you the information you need because there's no real standard but if your yarn only has 2-3 strands, it's probably really light weight and if it's worsted it's probably 10 or 12 ply. So, if you use this in combination with wrapping (or some common sense) it will probably help you. There's a list of the ply to weight name chart on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ravelry.com/help/yarn/weights&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ravelry&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;By Gauge&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can determine whether an unknown ball of yarn will work for your project by making a gauge swatch. This requires that you are pretty comfortable with your stitching and are consistent but it should help. Use the recommended sized hook or needle for the project and follow the instructions for determining gauge for the project (if it includes those instructions) or use a base guide like the one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If the stitch count per four inch swatch is really off, then it won't work. If it's good and it looks the way you expect, then go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, you should adjust for your own stitch style. If you know that you normally need to crochet with a 5.5 mm hook when the recommended size is 6.5, then crochet the sample with the 5.5 mm hook rather than the recommended one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;By Weight&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have really good scales. If you measure how long your yarn is and then weigh it (in grams) you should be able to find out the weight... because everyone wants to spend hours measuring the length of their yarn. The better your scale is (and heavier the weight), the shorter the length of yarn you can weigh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend that you weigh at least 10-20 grams worth of yarn and then figure out the length. Note that you don't have to cut the yarn to do this, just let the remainder hang off the scale and mark the measurement stop point with a small slip knot. It shouldn't affect the measurement too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have your weight to length measurement, you should be able to compare it to other known yarns and get an idea of what the &amp;quot;weight&amp;quot; group is. Though, note that the material your yarn is made of can affect its density so if you don't know what it's made of (which is likely since you don't have the label any more), you might want to try to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/170/is-there-a-way-to-determine-the-fiber-content-of-a-yarn-if-ive-lost-the-label&quot;&gt;figure that out&lt;/a&gt;, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, labels are annoying to hold on to plus the cat probably ran off with them or ate them... but I recommend that you avoid getting into this situation by logging your yarn purchases somewhere. Either keep track of your receipts (if they give identifying info about the yarn) or, even better, track your purchases on a site like Ravelry. This is great because it often has everything uploaded already, so you don't have to manually enter any of the data except (if you want) color name and dye lot. The section you're looking for is called &amp;quot;stash&amp;quot; under &amp;quot;my notebook&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T21:20:48.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2016-05-03T22:21:05.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are about nine or ten main stitches that are the most commonly used and, of them, four or five are probably used the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Most common US stitch abbreviations:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ch - chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bpsc (or bpdc, bptc) - back post single crochet (double crochet, triple crochet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dc - double crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dtr - double treble crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hdc - half double crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fpsc (or fpdc, fptc) - front post single crochet (double crochet, triple crochet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sc - single crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sl st or ss - slip stitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tc - treble crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trtc - triple treble crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Most common UK stitch abbreviations:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ch - chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dc - double crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dtr - double treble crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;htr - half treble crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rtrb - raised treble back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rtrf - raised treble front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ss - slip stitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tr - treble crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other standard, non-stitch related abbreviations:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These may be used on their own or in conjunction with the abbreviations above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bp - back post&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dec - decrease&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fp - front post&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inc - increase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rep - repeat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rnd(s) - round(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RS - right side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;st - stitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tog - together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WS - wrong side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yo/yoh - yarn over/yarn over hook&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, many patterns use an asterisk (*) to mark a repeated section of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other terms that some sites may define like pc (popcorn) or cl (cluster) but these should be defined in your pattern because what each pattern considers a popcorn stitch or cluster will vary greatly. They are non-standard, so look for a section in the instructsion that breaks up these terms into their smaller parts for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T22:21:05.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="329" CreationDate="2016-05-03T23:46:19.953" Score="5" ViewCount="15375" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main adhesives used for poster projects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue stick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Liquid glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I use each of those adhesives for something I'm trying to put on a poster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="199" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T00:27:36.363" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T00:27:36.363" Title="Which type of adhesive should I use on posters, and when?" Tags="|tool-selection|adhesives|posters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2016-05-03T23:55:43.147" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One piece of advice I've seen consistently in articles and videos on this subject is to make whatever knitting technique you use highly efficient. You want to make your movements as small as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you'll want to do is try to use pair the yarn fiber/type you're using with a needle material that will allow you to knit with relative ease. If you pair a slippery yarn with a smooth knitting needle, it will be harder to keep the stitches from sliding away from you. You'll likely have to grip your work harder to keep it in place and that will slow you down. On the other hand, if you pair a rough yarn with a rough knitting needle, it can be hard to move the stitches at all. Extra effort to move the knitting along the needle will also slow you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T23:55:43.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="326" CreationDate="2016-05-04T02:01:28.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're trying to affix things to poster board paper, here are some things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Glue sticks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't set super fast, which is a pro and con:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can adjust your placement if you make a mistake, and have a fair amount of time to do this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to wait until it's 100% set, being careful not to push or slide it around &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't have the best sticking power, and items may fall off over time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can apply it to either the board or the object you're placing very easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It works best on flat, non-porous surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be removed very easily if you accidentally put it somewhere, with a quick wipe of a dry or slighty-moist towel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It comes in colored varieties that dry clear, now, which helps you make sure you've applied it properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't wrinkle thin paper as much as liquid glue, if at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use glue sticks if you want to put things up quick, have leeway with mistakes, and need a steadfastness in the sticking power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Liquid glues&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're applying it out of the bottle, and not using a brush&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They take a bit of time to set, but have much better sticking power than glue sticks once dried&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't easily adjust a misplaced item without smearing the glue around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are more easily applied to the board, on a flat surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can work on porous materials, such as felt, and odd shapes such as pasta&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If too much is used, they will bleed through the felt and make it stiff on the opposite side &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a bit harder to clean up if you put a drop in the wrong spot, as it wiping will spread it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They dry clear, generally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're applying thin materials, like tissue paper, magazine pages or printer paper, then it's very likely to cause some wrinkles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use liquid glues when you want your project to stay together longer, have some time and space to wait for it to dry, or want to use a variety of materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tape&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming Scotch tape/cello tape, for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sets instantly! Apply it and you're done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you make a mistake placing your object, you have to risk tearing the paper to pull it off ad try again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sticking power usually depends on the length of tape you apply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can fold a strip onto itself to create a double-sided tape, so the strips don't show on the outside&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This takes more time and material and makes the tape easier to remove (a good and bad thing, depending)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The object you're sticking needs to be flat and thin, if applying it from the outside, otherwise it may pull of or not stick at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It works best on clean edges, and not the kind made with decorate edge scissors, such as zig zags&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can find a variety of similar products, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cutetape.com/creative/blog/2012/6/what-is-washi-tape&quot;&gt;washi tape&lt;/a&gt;, to spruce up your project&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't wrinkle your papers, but you have to avoid getting wrinkles in it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use plain tape when you want something up fast and are willing to risk some tearing (that might end up hidden) on parts of your project and don't mind the obvious appearance of tap when using it on the outside. On the other hand, if you want to add quick, decorative borders, you can use washi tape or other products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double-sided tape is available, if you're using it under the object your applying, but it doesn't necessarily have extra sticking power than rolled up regular tape. Yet, it tends to be more expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative to tape is stickers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T02:01:28.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T03:00:33.747" Score="9" ViewCount="825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been collecting used keyboards for a while. Mostly to get the plastic circuit map underneath for making wallets and what not. Recently I ran into this picture of a suit made of keyboard keys:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tomsguide.com/us/keyboard-jacket-keyboard-vest-high-tech-clothes,news-10611.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYfwN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Keyboard key suit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tomsguide.com/us/keyboard-jacket-keyboard-vest-high-tech-clothes,news-10611.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TomsGuide.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is I can't figure out how the keys are attached to the suit. Most keyboard keys don't lend themselves well to be attached to anything other than the keyboard itself (obviously). If you look at the bottom of most keys there is not much surface area to work with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techgage.com/article/logitech_g710_mechanical_gaming_keyboard_review/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YEjoGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under a keyboard key&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://techgage.com/article/logitech_g710_mechanical_gaming_keyboard_review/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;techgage.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's not like I can sew this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to attach keyboard keys to clothing. In particular a suit jacket like the one pictured above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T03:44:02.987" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T22:40:26.360" Title="How can I affix keyboard keys to a suit jacket?" Tags="|clothing|upcycling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="323" CreationDate="2016-05-04T04:35:46.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the many different kind of quill pens nib designs, I don't think any definitive yes-no answer is possible here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, ink will flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of writing you want to do will have much influence on the decision about whether you use it.  Probably the best choice is to experiment by having a few controlled dips, and creating a few controlled strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dip to a fixed-depth, and the draw the pen nib down a page until it is exhausted.  Make multiple strokes as needed.  Repeat this for varied dip depths.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then try letter-writing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And / or, try other common nib-strokes related to the kind of purpose you will employ the pen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find a writing style comfortable enough — problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T04:35:46.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2016-05-04T04:38:19.973" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be untested, as I've never done such a thing, but I think my theory is sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take a rotary tool, such as a Dremel, with a fine drill bit. Then I'd drill two holes at a shallow angle on opposite sides of the key's center support. Do all four sides if you want to sew them more like 4-hole buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here, I'd recommend a curved sewing needle, except that they're too fat! So, instead, I'd use some pliers to give a small needle the curve you need to fit through the holes. Then sew away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A problem you may run into is the assortment of keys you have. The ones you pictured are actually from a mechanical keyboard (in fact, the same exact model that I own), and so they have strong, uniform central posts. Those posts also have hollow centers, because the switch fits into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most keyboard keys you'll probably have will look more like this underneath:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gWf7Cm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gWf7Cm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are keys from standard membrane keyboards. They have posts of varying widths and shapes, and they aren't always hollow all the way through. Sometimes the post, like in the image above, will stick out beyond the key, which makes drilling easier. If not, it may be a little more difficult to line up the separate drill holes so that there's a clean path the entire way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T04:38:19.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2016-05-04T06:53:09.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By cartridge I presume you mean cartridge calligraphy pens and/or their nibs. The main difference when it comes to storage of nibs is that usually cartridge (fountain) calligraphy pen nibs are stainless steel and dip pen nibs are not. So the main concern will be with moisture/damp as the dip pen nibs will try to corrode, but I would store both in a dry place anyway. If the storage is likely to be for an extended period I would do what the manufacturers do and oil the dip pen nibs before storage (and remember to remove the oil before using).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume you will have cleaned and dried dip nibs after use. If not, remove from holder soak and use a tooth brush to remove any residual ink. If you have dried ink residue that does not loosen on soaking in water you need to use an appropriate solvent, usually some form of alcohol, in the UK methylated spirit would be my first choice, isopropyl alcohol my next ... Then dry after cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One really ought to do the same with the nib and feed of a cartridge pen, but it is more troublesome to pull the nib and feed for cleaning. Also flushing a cartridge pen (if you have the materials to do it) will not remove all of the ink residue from the nib and feed, so before long term storage you should pull the nib and feed for cleaning. (There should be no need to oil a stainless steel nib.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a used fountain pen that had been stored inked and it had serious corrosion on the back of the nib, even though it was stainless steel, and nasty deposits blocking the feed. Fortunately I could junk both as I had bought it as a new home for a custom grind italic nib with feed that had lost their original home :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a trend to put manga G dip pen nibs in fountain/cartridge pens among some fountain/cartridge pen users. If you have such a pen the nib should be treated as a dip pen nib for storage purposes, and probably should be pulled and cleaned between every use anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T07:50:21.797" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T07:50:21.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2016-05-04T08:50:44.373" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest approach is a hot needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold a rather thick needle with pincers (pretty much any kind) and heat it up - stove fire will take seconds to make it glowing hot, but a candle flame should suffice. Melt the hole through both sides of the stubs. The needle should be considerably thicker than the one you'll use for sewing because the holes close up a bit when you remove the needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T08:50:44.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2016-05-04T12:08:21.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things you need to consider &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; we look at storage options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ensure your nibs are clean&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are done using your nibs you should ensure that you medium is removed and clean before you store it. Most people suggest just using &lt;em&gt;room temperature&lt;/em&gt; water or more specifically distilled water (that would have less mineral build up that would being stuck inside the workings of the pen). Ink is obviously easier to clean before it has set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on this from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.levenger.com/maintaining-a-fountain-pen-1216.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Levenger.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rust and corrosion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that rust begets rust. You want to be sure that the nibs / cartridge nibs are free of rust before you go to store them. This is especially true if you intend to store your nibs together in close proximity. Enough rust will render the nib useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baking Soda Paste&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For simple surface rust you can make a paste from baking soda and water and use a toothbrush to gently work the surface to remove the rust. Again, using water to clean the surface one done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more tactics to removing rust, like vinegar or a molasses bath, but given that there are hard to restore if the rust is bad you should only have to worry about simple surface rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Storage&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One area where people seem a little divided is on storage of nibs. Particularity when it comes to storing nibs together where they can touch or completely segregated from each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Storage options are numerous. Some styles worth mentioning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple tins cans (think Altoids)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small plastic containers. These are favoured as you can store the nibs vertically. This is done, in theory, to prevent ink build up on the split and tip. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tackle box / craft box. Any partitioned storage box really. Multiple nibs that are related to each other are stored together. Since the partitions are configurable or at least different sizes your cartridges would fit in here as well as your pens. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cardboard. If you like keeping the nibs separate then this would be a preferred method as each nib would get its own slot. As long as you can keep the board itself in a safe location this also prevents the nibs from moving around which could damage the tips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other storage considerations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut up small straw lengths that you can either feed down the split (If you have to force it don't do it.) or place on the tip for additional protection. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silica gel packets: You save these right? If humidity is an issue for your storage then consider sticking in one or two of these in with your nibs. It will help keep a moisture, and therefore rust, free environment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your are fine with storing nibs together make sure at least they cannot come into contact with anything heavier or harder than themselves. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T12:18:10.363" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T12:18:10.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="336" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-04T14:06:24.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upcycling is a huge crafting movement that is all about taking all kinds of materials like plastics, paper products, clothing etc. and using those as materials for other projects ranging from decorations, clothing, jewelry and many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag should be used as a meta tag with other tags. Your &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/clothing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;clothing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;clothing&lt;/a&gt; project could be using recycled goods for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T00:53:24.727" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T00:53:24.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="337" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-04T14:06:24.117" Score="0" Body="Taking something that would be otherwise thrown away and using it to make something beautiful. This tag is a better partner with others like clothing." OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T00:53:21.773" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T00:53:21.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="338" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-04T14:47:19.570" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T14:47:19.570" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T14:47:19.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="339" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-04T14:47:19.570" Score="0" Body="For questions about creating, mending, altering various types of apparel, or using clothing as part of another project." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T00:53:50.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T00:53:50.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="340" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-04T14:49:10.883" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T14:49:10.883" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T14:49:10.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="341" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-04T14:49:10.883" Score="0" Body="Cutting or trimming materials with scissors or knife. This tag is best used in combination with a more specific tag about the material being cut and/or tool being used." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T03:53:26.940" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T03:53:26.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="302" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:38:44.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Screen printing can be done successfully on felt, but it takes a little bit of experimentation due to the rougher texture of the fabric. Screen printing is also useful for making multiple copies of an image - unsure if you plan to make just one or multiple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T15:38:44.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="315" CreationDate="2016-05-04T15:45:17.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the level of detail you are trying to achieve, linoleum cutting tools may work well for you. I would highly suggest practicing on some spare cork first however - I have used these tools for linoleum printing and it takes a while to get the hang of things and avoid cutting yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOSZs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOSZs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T15:45:17.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="267" CreationDate="2016-05-04T17:45:26.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the recipes I've seen online are for acrylic gesso to prime canvases before painting. I'm not sure they would work the same for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I did locate one recipe specifically for gilding from an SCA member's website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 part sugar water (the sticky part that allows the gold to adhere)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 parts liquitex acrylic gesso (adds the bulk to your gesso)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;5 parts liquitex gloss varnish medium (keeps the gesso together,    hardening with a smooth finish)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Color to suit (red for work with gold and blue for silver)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to give instructions for the gilding process as well, including how to use the gesso:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lay the Gesso&lt;/strong&gt; – Start your area of gesso in the middle of your design&#xA;  and pull it outwards towards the edges*.  It is ideal to let this&#xA;  gesso dry for 6-8 hours. DO NOT to get air bubbles in your gesso when&#xA;  you stir. Gently fold your gesso to remix it.  If you do have air&#xA;  bubbles in your laid gesso there will be pits in the surface after it&#xA;  dries.  To remove the bubbles from gesso that you’ve just laid take a&#xA;  pin and gently pop them before it begins to dry.  It has been my&#xA;  experience that the key to beautiful raised gilding is an even surface&#xA;  tension to the &quot;bubble&quot; of gesso that you lay down.  To create an even&#xA;  surface tension to your gesso you should first drop a large puddle of&#xA;  the gesso into the space you will be gilding, then using your brush&#xA;  pull the edges of the puddle outwards to the fill your designed space.&#xA;  This gesso is not designed for flat gilding and your design should be&#xA;  filled in with puddles of the gesso that create small domes on your&#xA;  page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.insightbb.com/~denevell_books/gilding.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Scribal Art of Elizabth de Nevell&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="197" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T17:45:26.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="77" CreationDate="2016-05-04T18:17:54.343" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a couple reasons why your paper curled like that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertically displayed paper has a tendency to curl more in my experience, especially when it has no support. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gum/glue itself may be causing or aggravating the curling. Some adhesives and coatings draw, or shrink inward, as they dry. (You see this in nail polish, too, when some thicker top coats cause the color to pull away from the tips.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To counteract the curling, you could try a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coat both sides of the paper with the gum/glue, or a varnish. The drawing affect would be lessened as it would be trying to curl in both directions at once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tape the paper down while working and allow to dry thoroughly, leaving it overnight to 'cure' before removing the tape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a stiffer material as a backing. Thin sheets of metal or wood would be the most stable. But, chipboard or even a heavy cardstock would afford some further support.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="197" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T18:17:54.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="360" CreationDate="2016-05-05T01:05:58.160" Score="9" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;You see loads of people make their own chain mail. I can only assume they have some process with which to make the loops to make the process less tedious. There are loads of tutorials out there but some assume you already have the loops for the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfAkom.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfAkom.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AMQPY5I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I already have an appropriately gauged wire of a proper material how can I process it to create the thousands of loops/ rings required for a suit of mail? A starter project, that might be easier, would be a chain mail dice bag or diaper cover for my young one! That sounds less frustrating and more realistic to finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2017-10-12T15:27:39.090" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T15:27:39.090" Title="How can I efficiently make the loops for chain mail or small chain crafts?" Tags="|tool-selection|wire|chain-mail|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2016-05-05T01:49:15.297" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;there are a few ways to make rings/loops on your own. If you're just starting out you might want to consider buying ready-made rings in the appropriate size and gauge in a project kit. You would be surprised at how many rings even a small project like a dice bag will require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to get this out of the way, (and from personal experience) if you're going to cut rings &lt;strong&gt;wear eye protection&lt;/strong&gt; of some sort, and not just your normal glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First create a coil of wire around some kind of cylinder. I actually have &quot;jump ring mandrels&quot; that fit into the chuck of a drill so I can wind massive amounts of wire if I want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Slowest Way:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm currently making rings from some wire spool ends and I'm cutting them by hand using flush cut pliers. I just snip the rings one at a time from the coil then turn the cutters and nip the non-flat part of the cut with the flat edge of the flush-cutters. Depending on how much wire you nip off where the ends join it can change the size/shape of your ring overall so this is only good for scraps and if you need a few rings. An important note is to make sure your cutting pliers can handle the thickness/gauge of the wire you are cutting. I broke cutters and sent the broken blade careening toward my eyeball, hence the eye protection warning. I was wearing glasses and yes, they got chipped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Slow Way:&lt;/strong&gt; I was at a glass and jewelry show and met a nice couple that made their own rings but hand-cut them with a jeweler's saw. This is a small saw frame that takes super-thin blades. If I recall I was told to use some of the smallest blades available (8/0 I believe). They suggested holding the coil in one hand while wearing heavy leather gloves. There are much better ways of holding the coil if cutting by hand, one of them involves using a jeweler's bench pin, but you might still want to wear heavy gloves. There is also something called &quot;coil cutting pliers&quot; that are made and sold by BeadSmith. They're meant to be used with a jeweler's saw as well. I have these pliers but haven't tried them yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Fast Way:&lt;/strong&gt; (My expertise is running out here) There are some wonderful systems out there that have an apparatus to wind the wire, hold the wire, and then have an attachment that fits on a rotary tool (like a Dremel) or a regular drill with a cutting blade. I believe the names are &quot;Jump Ringer&quot; and &quot;Koil Kutter&quot;. I'm sure there are others by now. They are rather expensive, at least a couple hundred dollars, but can't be beat for large volumes of rings. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also bears mentioning that with any cutting method used there might be little burrs at the wire ends where they were cut. If you don't want little burr ends catching and snagging on skin, clothing, etc., you probably need to file all those little rough ends or tumble polish the rings to smooth them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a jump ring expert but I've made a lot of jump rings by hand (and I still do) and I've finished a few maille pieces. I might have missed something and hope someone can add to what I've mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T02:16:37.067" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T02:16:37.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="353" CreationDate="2016-05-05T02:24:45.710" Score="9" ViewCount="6974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some simple jewelry designs made out of wire, which I'd like to replicate. These designs are made from a single piece of wire bent into a variety of shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For portions of the design, the wire is still perfectly round. However, some parts are smoothly flatted. By smoothly, I mean that there are no creases or hammer marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of what I'm describing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWfJSm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWfJSm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I achieve this effect? Can I use steel wire, or does it need to be something softer, such as aluminum wire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T13:57:53.450" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T10:26:08.337" Title="How can I smoothly flatten select parts of a wire design?" Tags="|tool-selection|wire|metalworking|jewelry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2016-05-05T02:33:50.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a local yarn store you can go to? Most of the stores by me have &quot;drop-in&quot; sessions of classes at a reasonable cost, and you could ask for the teacher to watch you knit for a few minutes and then give you suggestions to improve your technique, or ways to change your technique to improve your speed. My local yarn store owner is well versed in multiple ways of knitting and can explain what works best for knitting fast and why. I'm sure any local yarn store owner could help you out too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="203" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T02:33:50.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="354" CreationDate="2016-05-05T02:37:36.643" Score="10" ViewCount="1554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into pen nib preventative maintenance and found a couple of pictures that I didn't understand. The first we see the nib on top is not the same as the rest as it has a crooked body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqmcfm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqmcfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;some pen nibs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://linktoink.wordpress.com/2010/08/19/6-simple-ways-to-care-for-your-calligraphy-nibs/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;linktoink.wordpress.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you have this pen which look like you get the same effect as the nib but the pen is specialized and normal nibs are used. This image was part of a &quot;pointed pen&quot; image. Searching for that did not help. So I know it is called something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGutam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGutam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Special pen&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Calligraphy/comments/3ektam/pointed_pen_practice/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these called and what are they used for? Is this something that is easy to handle for some?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T20:32:10.253" Title="What is the name of these &quot;offset&quot; nibs and pens?" Tags="|calligraphy|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2016-05-05T03:19:14.403" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flat parts of the wire are achieved by using a &lt;em&gt;curved face chasing hammer&lt;/em&gt; and a &lt;em&gt;hammering block&lt;/em&gt;. The chasing hammer has a slightly convex surface that makes those nice smooth transitions from the flat part of the wire to the regular rounded part of the wire. &lt;em&gt;If the hammer surface is too flat you'll see hammer marks on the wire&lt;/em&gt;. Visually check the hammer face before buying to make sure that it is convex (slightly domed) and not fully flat or worse, concave.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what one looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FHogvm.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FHogvm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The [my] hammering block is a smooth square of heavy steel about 4&quot; x 4&quot; square and quite heavy. The goal is to have a heavy and very smooth surface that's harder than the wire or metal being hammered so the surface doesn't get marked up opposite the side being hammered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel wire is very hard to hammer and may be as hard or harder than the hammering block. Aluminum wire might be softer but I've heard it's brittle and might not take hammering well. Most of my experience has been with sterling silver, fine silver, brass, and copper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example photo is lovely but I was taught that it wasn't a good idea to hammer where wires cross as this makes weak spots in the finished piece. Maybe something has changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="192" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T15:05:06.593" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T15:05:06.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="352" CreationDate="2016-05-05T09:38:33.417" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is called an &lt;strong&gt;Oblique Calligraphy Pen&lt;/strong&gt;. It is used because it makes it much easier to hold the nib pointing in angles that are otherwise very hard to achieve if you're right handed (oblique angles):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sXT1W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sXT1W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T09:38:33.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T16:08:04.697" Score="7" ViewCount="10758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just moved into a new place, and plan on creating a desk that can be used as a computer desk, quilting desk, and drawing/drafting table. While often it will be a flat surface parallel with the floor, I would like to be able to angle the surface for drawing, painting, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific angle used for drawing and drafting, or is it purely personal preference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="95" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T17:05:47.443" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T22:12:19.627" Title="Is there a standard angle to use for drawing and drafting tables?" Tags="|drawing|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="612" CreationDate="2016-05-05T18:38:39.677" Score="10" ViewCount="6083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of stepping up to folding complex origami models, such as those by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.folders.jp/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;KAMIYA Satoshi&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://origami.gr.jp/~hojyo/004phototop.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HOJYO Takashi&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.langorigami.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robert Lang&lt;/a&gt;, but obviously 10&quot; origami paper (kami) isn't going to cut it, as you typically need much larger paper (60cm x 60cm being not uncommon a requirement).  What should I look for (thickness, weight, fiber types, sizing) when hunting up paper sources for this kind of model?  I'm not interested in making my own  or other DIY solutions (e.g., methyl cellulose, foil tissue, etc.), or going super-expensive high end, like Origamido paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have to buy paper over the internet that I can't touch/feel, how can I judge if it's suitable for folding complex models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T18:19:12.807" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T01:23:07.423" Title="What should I look for in a paper for a complex origami model?" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2016-05-05T20:54:06.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It hugely depends on you. Typical setups are around 30-40 degrees, but personal preference is paramount. Find an angle that you are comfortable with, and stick with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I prefer a flat desk, but some people I know aren't happy unless it's closer to 45 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that whilst learning, some teachers will encourage you to change your angle if you are having problems with distorting your proportions. It will force you to look at the drawing differently whilst you draw it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T20:54:06.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2016-05-05T22:12:19.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a somewhat supplement to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/355/is-there-a-standard-angle-to-use-for-drawing-and-drafting-tables/358#358&quot;&gt;Johnathan's existing answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height of your chair or stool will likely affect the angle you set your table to. If you're sitting low compared to the desk, you'll likely need the surface more upright in order to have the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/308/24&quot;&gt;reach and perspective&lt;/a&gt; you'll need. If you are sitting much higher than your desk, then a less inclined surface could work fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things I try to shoot for is having a comfortable eye line with the center of my piece. I don't want to lean too far forward or tilt my neck uncomfortably. So, I prefer to put my desk as far upright as it goes, and adjust my seat accordingly. This is the most comfortable set up, in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, the more upright you go, the more likely you are to need some sort of clip or way to affix your paper to the desk. If it's a large sheet, it'll probably rest on the bottom ridge. But if you want to place a smaller sheet, such as printer paper, in the center of the desk, it'll (obviously) slide without some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T22:12:19.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2016-05-05T22:12:54.377" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I took jewelry making classes, we used the saw method mentioned in Kellerra's answer section &quot;the slow way&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start by wrapping your desired wire around something round like a dowel to make a &quot;spring&quot; of circles and then you cut them apart with a saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best setup I found was to have something... either a dowel or steel bar... with a notch cut in the end as a &quot;guide&quot; for your saw blade with the far end held in a giant clamp attached to a table. Here's an image I found that shows what I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4jBu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4jBu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jump ring cutting rig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use tension in your off-hand to pull the rings towards the blade notch... note that as you cut through each ring, it will drop, so you want something to catch them unless you want to spend an hour finding where they rolled on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saws are pretty easy to use once you get the hang of them... but you will probably break tons of blades when you first start out because you're going to have to figure out the right amount of pressure to use that will cut the metal without snapping the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, once you get used to the saw, this is actually pretty fast. Granted, it's not as fast as some of the machined methods which, if you're really that interested in speed and you can afford it, are a good option... as is simply buying the rings premade, which isn't as expensive as you might fear if you buy in bulk, though it is more expensive than buying the wire alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find the cuts to be quite a bit cleaner with this method than with a lot of other methods around, particularly using wire cutters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T23:08:18.613" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T23:08:18.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="396" CreationDate="2016-05-06T01:55:10.553" Score="4" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was looking at a piece of origami on display or somewhere where I cannot feel it, how could I identify the type of paper being used? I do not need specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="199" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T02:59:08.253" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T20:13:45.137" Title="How would I identify the type of paper being used in a folded origami?" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="362" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-06T02:53:30.603" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T02:53:30.603" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T02:53:30.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="363" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-06T02:53:30.603" Score="0" Body="For questions asking for help figuring out the name of or purpose of a known tool. Images are recommended." OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T16:45:38.503" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T16:45:38.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="381" CreationDate="2016-05-06T08:58:46.973" Score="7" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked an artist to paint on a table. So, I have now a wooden board (90x150cm) with a nice drawing/painting (he used different types of paints, pens, sprays, etc.)&#xA;Since it is a &lt;em&gt;table&lt;/em&gt; I'd like to use it (don't know yet if it will be a kitchen table or an office table).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I protect this masterpiece so that I can use my board as a normal table?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been thinking about glass (heavy and not very handy) or lacquerware (nice but is it really food safe?). What are some other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some additional context:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;So, I looked for the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://jacquesalaindemont.strikingly.com/#peinture&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;website of the artist&lt;/a&gt; and discovered that the tables are listed there together with the painting materials used: aquarelle, ink, acrylic and wood varnish.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c38n2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c38n2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7Btgm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7Btgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So apparently they are already varnished but my question still holds: is it safe enough for the masterpiece? Is it food safe? Should I consider other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T15:24:56.290" LastActivityDate="2021-09-11T11:51:12.613" Title="How can I protect the mixed-media surface of my table?" Tags="|woodworking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="402" CreationDate="2016-05-06T10:53:38.973" Score="6" ViewCount="5102" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling washes the color down, and baking polymer clay in a classic oven is troublesome in my situation. Can I use a microwave though? If so, what settings? Any precautions needed? (say, a glass of water to create a &quot;load&quot; for the microwave)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T19:29:16.627" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T10:25:46.820" Title="Can I microwave polymer clay to harden it?" Tags="|polymer-clay|sculpting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="373" CreationDate="2016-05-06T20:43:44.470" Score="7" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old set of wood carving knives, my wife's actually, and parts of the blades are pretty rusty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, we have a sharpener for them. If I sharpen them, are they still safe to use? Or is there a possibility that the blades are completely weakened and I should just replace the set, to be safe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to risk a blade chipping or something while using it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-11T18:37:58.717" LastActivityDate="2022-11-12T18:16:24.800" Title="Does rust matter on my wood carving knives if I sharpen them?" Tags="|wood-carving|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="367" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:21:51.730" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T22:21:51.730" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:21:51.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="368" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:21:51.730" Score="0" Body="The primary tool for crocheting, this tag should be used for questions about selecting, using, and caring for crochet hooks." OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T00:57:06.953" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T00:57:06.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="369" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:27:23.320" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T22:27:23.320" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:27:23.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="370" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:27:23.320" Score="0" Body="The craft of connecting two things using a needle and thread. This tag can cover all methods from hand-sewing to machine sewing. Questions specifically about specialty &quot;sewing&quot; crafts like embroidery or cross stitch should use those tags instead." OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-08-22T16:44:38.690" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T16:44:38.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="372" CreationDate="2016-05-07T00:09:50.030" Score="4" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this kind of embroidery stitch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdL6T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdL6T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kollabora.com/projects/free-leaf-embroidery-pattern]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kollabora.com/projects/free-leaf-embroidery-pattern]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T15:56:55.060" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T15:56:55.060" Title="What is the name of the embroidery stitch which looks like tiny lines with gaps betweeen them?" Tags="|embroidery|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="371" CreationDate="2016-05-07T00:22:23.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.embroidery.rocksea.org/stitch/running-stitch/darning-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this encyclopedia of embroidery stitches&lt;/a&gt;, it looks like this is a &amp;quot;darning stitch&amp;quot;, which is in the running stitch family.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The darning stitch is about making rows of straight running stitches near each other. The technique of darning is used to mend  torn clothes, especially socks and looks like a woven patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sites corroborate this terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia page for &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Running_stitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;running stitch&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; defines the darning stitch as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Darning stitches are closely spaced parallel rows of running stitches used to fill or reinforce worn areas of a textile, or as decoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T00:22:23.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2016-05-07T01:08:02.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on how deep the rust is. Rust weakens the bonds in the metal, but unless it is rusted right through, it's probably recoverable. Basically, you want to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the rust, likely a soak in vinegar for a day or so will do the main job.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sand off any remaining rust using something like steel wool or fine grit sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sharpen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polish to restore finish.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People restore old kitchen and pocket knives all the time and you can find lots of different techniques online. Unless the knife has been rusting for a lot longer than we've been alive, I think you're good once you've removed the rust and stopped the oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T01:08:02.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="445" CreationDate="2016-05-07T05:35:56.267" Score="9" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fiber craft patterns always give a yarn weight. I've seen things like medium and light, but also &quot;worsted yarn&quot; or &quot;DK yarn&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:09:32.257" Title="What is yarn weight?" Tags="|yarn|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T05:46:11.707" Score="10" ViewCount="14872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had these two small wooden heart magnets given to me a year ago, but over time, both hearts have fallen off their magnets. They seem to be attached by a thing sheet of some kind of clear glue that obviously can't hold in the long run (it's taken them both several months to fall off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there a particular kind of glue I can use to make the magnets hold together for good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uddal.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uddal.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two small wooden hearts and a smaller magnet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T23:20:02.077" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T20:19:16.603" Title="What kind of glue to make a magnet adhere to wood?" Tags="|wood|adhesives|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="377" CreationDate="2016-05-07T05:58:42.980" Score="24" ViewCount="45493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new at drawing. I'm not very good at pencil types yet, but it seems like whichever pencil I use (I have a set of 12 ranging from 6B to 5H), I end up with smudges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to reduce the number of smudges I make? Or should I resign myself to them and just try to not make really awful ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T19:04:32.357" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T06:36:10.657" Title="How can I avoid smudging my pencil drawings?" Tags="|drawing|preservation|pencils|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="376" CreationDate="2016-05-07T13:04:07.480" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most common techniques to avoid this problem is using an extra sheet of paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the paper so it's under your drawing hand and on top of the part of your drawing you're not working on. Be careful not to move it around too much, using masking tape to stick it to your desk if necessary. If you use tracing paper, you'll still be able to see where you're headed through the sheet, instead of blocking off your view of the piece as a whole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also start to build up your hand control. The smudging happens, generally, because your drawing hand is resting completely on the paper. On a horizontal desk, this in natural, but leads to smudging. Instead of resting your hand on its whole side, try using one of your pinky knuckles as a the only place your hand touches the page. This will minimize contact with the paper and reduce the chance of smearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're on an inclined desk or easel, you can change to an alternative drawing grip. The underhand grip, for instance, should keep your hand completely off the page. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I'd suggest just being careful about watching your hands. Making sure your drawing hand isn't making contact with the paper where you've already drawn while you're drawing, and that your free hand isn't gripping the page on the penciled parts. Change your paper or hand angle as necessary to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note, pencils in the B range are softer and will smudge more and more obviously, so be extra careful with them. 4H and higher shouldn't smear very much at all, but they give you much lighter values. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you meant the smudge after you finish them, I would recommend you purchase some fixative spray. It can be used for graphite, charcoal and pastel. Essentially, it adds a protective layer over the piece. There's also fixatives to use while working on them. I have no idea about these, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/380/24&quot;&gt;John Cavan does&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerosol hair spray does the same in a pinch, but will damage your work over the long term. However, if you're just going to scan it or take a picture of it, you may not care. The only time I've done it has been for keeping things from smudging long enough to get a digital copy for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T00:34:57.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="375" CreationDate="2016-05-07T13:14:51.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use either Elmer's wood glue, it takes 12~ hours to dry. Or I use one of the thicker &quot;super glues&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T03:20:58.870" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T03:20:58.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2016-05-07T13:19:45.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it requires baking to set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a polymer clay only &quot;toaster oven&quot;. It was designed for just using that medium. Look at your local craft store, or online &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T17:47:30.077" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T17:47:30.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="376" CreationDate="2016-05-07T13:57:19.287" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the suggestions by @user24, you can get &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00023JE7U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;workable fixative&lt;/a&gt; that allows you to continue to work on drawings after spraying it. This is handy if you can't finish the piece in the whole session and want to protect it against accidental smudging, especially if it's in a sketchbook, until you can work on it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll still want to apply a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0027A7DBA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;final fixative&lt;/a&gt; at the end, but make sure not to mix them up if you want to keep working. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixatives, for the curious, are protective sprays designed to prevent accidental damage to drawings, think of them similar to varnishing a painting. Any serious art store, and some not-so-serious, are going to carry these and they're not very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Workable fixative is also really useful with colored pencil drawings as a way of gaining additional tooth after many layers. It's not perfect, but can help add a few more layers when you're otherwise unable to lay down color anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-30T09:14:24.467" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T09:14:24.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="364" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:39:28.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;-Note-: I started this answer before there was mention of potential of varnish on the table. This answer would hold outside of that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can usually epoxy over almost anything if you already have a varnished surface you might not need to bother. &quot;Varnish&quot; a little vague so it would be hard to be exactly sure. I would like to think the artist is aware of this so it should not be an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think one of the better choices here would be epoxy resin. You could also call it a bar-top finish. They are essentially the same thing. I had some initial hesitation in offering this suggestion until I saw multiple artists used epoxy resin to give a glass finish to their own acrylic paintings. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPEbPgE7RGAS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;One such example&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are meant for strength and longevity. However they are more susceptible to sunlight and UV rays then other finishes. You see this in other crafts as well like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=penny%20table&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;penny tables&lt;/a&gt;. Epoxy resin is usually food safe once fully cured check your individual product information to be sure. . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you have never done this before this should not be your first large project with epoxy resin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to work in an area that would be relatively free of dust and debris. Epoxies come as two liquids that need to be mixed together: a resin and a hardener. Most require a mix of 1:1.  Hard to say exactly how much you would need to cover your entire surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can remove the legs off your table I would do that and then use some small blocks or other objects to prop the table off the ground. Epoxy resin is self leveling so &lt;em&gt;it is imperative&lt;/em&gt; that you ensure your table is level before application. Use a level or series of level to help ensure that. At the same time you need to put down something under the table so that the resin has something to drip onto. This is supposed to happen to ensure an even finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix/stir your epoxy resin and pour over the table. You can use a brush to help the resin get around the whole surface. You are not &quot;painting&quot; the surface but helping the resin get complete coverage. Again, it will drip over the edges and that is fine as it helps coat the edges. You have a few minutes so if you need to add more resin to your surface you have a small window to add more without harming it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubbles are bound to happen so have a blow torch or heat gun handy to help pop them before the resin starts to cure. I even heard breathing (not blowing) on them helps them pop. This can especially be an issue for a mixed media table as there will be plenty of places for air to hide. Make sure that whatever you are using that you don't want near surface contact and stay in motion. You don't want to burn it or cause wrinkles if the epoxy is starting to cure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sometimes thin your epoxy to give it a longer curing time which both allows it to seep better and gives you more time. Note this can affect its overall strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your surface coated and bubbles removed then you typically would leave it to cure over a couple of days to be sure. If you have the means to tent the table this will help keep dust off. Be sure whatever you do that there is no risk of the blankets or what not falling onto the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy resins can be a complex subject if you want them to be. There is a lot of scenarios that would be too hard to cover hear. Do you research and always pay attention to product labels. So, if you are curious about this I would recommend reading up on it more. If you wanted to explore this in more detail I would recommend asking specific questions about your particular quandary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artresin.com/pages/how-to-videos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Art-Resin has some starting videos on the subject.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T17:39:28.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="375" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:42:33.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there a particular kind of glue I can use to make the magnets hold together for good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For good could be tough sell but like &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/378/44&quot;&gt;Joel Huebner says&lt;/a&gt; super/crazy glues would work just fine for this. For something this small that would be bearing much stress of weight it should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really wanted to you could use some 2 part epoxy from an applicator but I don't think that is necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that some of the wood you might be using would have a finish on it. If you intend to use glue for any surface you might get a better bond if you sand off the finish and get to bare wood. Smooth it off and then glue it. The glue should soak into the grain of the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T03:19:21.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="376" CreationDate="2016-05-07T18:29:09.450" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use an artist's bridge as well. It's basically a long metal ruler with either rubber feet at either end or a thin foam on the bottom. You can easily make your own out of a sturdy ruler as well. These are used by illustrators but could be useful to the fine artist as well. Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9lun.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9lun.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNy0hm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNy0hm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bridge is great for horizontal work but for easel work you can take a page from Salvador Dali's playbook and use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://painting.about.com/od/artglossarym/g/defmahlstick.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mahl stick&lt;/a&gt;. A stick with a ball of leather or rubber is a mahl stick. For the right-hander, the stick is held in the left, the ball is placed at upper right, either on the work surface or edge of easel. Some artists use a leather thong or nail to secure. You now have a movable bridge to keep your hand off the work surface. I use a yardstick with a ball of rags and tape at one end. You can easily make different lengths based on the scale you work at. Side note: see John Cusack demonstrate the use of a mini mahl stick in &quot;Being John Malkovich&quot;. Try a wooden dowel with a tennis ball or solid rubber ball at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is the issue of oils on the hand. To battle this use thin cotton gloves to handle paper. You used to be able to get these at photo supply stores. Cut all fingers off but the pinky for drawing hand. Again, this really just depends on how much you care about preservation of the white of the paper. For illustrators this is huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I add the following for thoroughness and the OCD tendencies in some of us. Use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frisket&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;frisket film&lt;/a&gt; to protect areas you want crisp and white. I've used this for charcoal and the effect is quite profound. Sharp crisp edges, perfect, immaculate whites contrasted with loose charcoal painting and drawing is almost magical. Tedious? yes ....worth it? I leave that as an exercise for the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For simplicity and ease of use, the extra piece of paper suggestions are great. Just adding my 2 cents for completeness. May I just add that tracing paper is great for this due to its lack of tooth and slippery surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="208" LastEditorUserId="208" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T21:44:47.703" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T21:44:47.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="385" CreationDate="2016-05-07T20:50:00.760" Score="9" ViewCount="17181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still working on developing a game plan for repair and customization of some action figures, and I'm wondering about making the broken parts a single piece again without the use of epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue with the epoxies is that the they need more surface to stick on, and some of these pieces have very thin surface areas where the break occurred. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I could melt or reform the separate pieces into one, problem solved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T05:20:47.453" Title="Can I melt or weld broken ABS plastic back together?" Tags="|plastic|abs|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2016-05-07T22:17:04.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in my University days I worked at a place that used to modify vending machines to allow 12oz cans to be vended in 16oz machines. They did this by adding ABS blocks to the racks using a very liquid substance that lightly melted the ABS and allowed the bond to form. It was a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; tight bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest I've found to that, and probably your best bet if you don't mind buying it, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Plastruct-Plastic-Weld-Cement-p/pls-00002.htm&quot;&gt;Plastruct Plastic Weld&lt;/a&gt;. This may even be the hobby version of the stuff I used back in the day, the effect is the same based on the description. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also understand that acetone (otherwise known as nail polish remover) can have a similar effect on plastics of various sorts. If you have some junk plastic to test with, this is worth trying. You're not using a lot, you just need to dip the parts to be bonded in or brush it on with a non-plastic brush or cotton swab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T22:17:04.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="375" CreationDate="2016-05-07T22:25:50.483" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magnets are notoriously glue-resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are sticky soft magnets used e.g. for refrigerator magnets, which would kinda work on the glue front, but they are pathetically weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try two-ingredient epoxy for other magnets; it tends to stick really well to pretty much everything and if it won't, you can practically encase anything with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I believe the best solution would be to forgo the glues and obtain some tiny neodymium magnets with a hole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bSgCz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bSgCz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are very strong, so even a tiny one can support your heart, and they can be affixed to a surface with a nail or a screw, making a very strong connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T22:25:50.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="387" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-08T12:59:40.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions that relate to techniques or means to preserve works of art from light fading, fingerprints, smudges, and other forms of damage that can happen over time or during the creation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T12:27:43.997" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T12:27:43.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="388" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-08T12:59:40.493" Score="0" Body="Protecting an art or craft to reduce damage over time, and/or during the creation process." OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T18:31:08.293" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T18:31:08.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="394" CreationDate="2016-05-08T15:29:06.833" Score="8" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a blender for a present, and its body is black plastic. Because of a family joke, we'd like to paint some purple decorations on it. This is inspired by very artistic hand painted stand mixers have seen, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://unamore.jalbum.net/Floral/slides/IMG_7261.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mixer with floral design painted on&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what type of paint to use for this project. What will smoothly and cleanly cover appliance plastic, and not wear away over time (considering it may be regularly handled, and also need light washing on occasion)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.270" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T19:49:42.980" Title="What type of paint should I use to decorate a kitchen appliance?" Tags="|paint|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="585" CreationDate="2016-05-09T17:39:39.503" Score="9" ViewCount="1684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was Googling about, and saw some images of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.graficaobscura.com/huffman/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dr. David Huffman's models&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://erikdemaine.org/curved/Kentucky/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the work of the Demaines&lt;/a&gt;, and was curious how one makes curved freehand folds with any precision.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So much of origami is taught as straight-line, corner-to-corner, or edge-to-edge straight folding. How do you make smooth, curved folds along predetermined lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T00:11:05.920" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T00:11:05.920" Title="How do you make curved folds in origami?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="399" CreationDate="2016-05-09T18:10:31.477" Score="12" ViewCount="6148" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given large pieces of freshly purchased fabric, how should I wash/dry them before using them to create things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every book, article, and other piece of advice I've heard is to always wash your fabric before cutting/sewing. I personally only use natural fabrics (usually cotton, rayon, linen), and look at what the care instructions are for the given fabrics online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've often had the cut ends of the fabric unravel and get tangled up to turn the large uncut piece into a ball of wet mess. The selvage is normally just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I prevent this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T14:40:59.730" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T02:25:41.300" Title="How can I pre-wash/dry bolts of fabric in a way that will prevent the cut ends from unraveling?" Tags="|fabric|preparation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="390" CreationDate="2016-05-09T20:09:03.403" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're really creases, not true &quot;folds&quot; so the secret I've found is to not try and form them on a flat surface the way you would a straight fold but, instead, fold them in mid-air using your fingers (and nails if you have them) to support and shape the creases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start a crease in the direction you want (mountain or valley) by bending the paper in the desired direction but do not attempt to fold it flush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use your thumb and forefinger above the paper to create a crease with the middle finger in the crease below it to keep the paper from collapsing completely. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shape the curve as you move along the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go slow and be patient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make really detailed shapes, consider etching the creases in first with a tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it was easier to start in the center of the curve and work outwards in both directions to achieve the curved shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_vLzTloCiQ&quot;&gt;Here's a video&lt;/a&gt; showing the process... note that, in this case, the creases are pre-etched in since this is a purpose-made piece of paper but you should be able to use the same method without the pre-etching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T20:09:03.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="250" CreationDate="2016-05-09T23:05:53.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;About damaging the Markers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t see how you could, at most, just clean the tip afterwards if you use both types toghether. Just keep in mind, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B017LYNAA4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a smooth surface is important so as to no damage the nibs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;About using both types together.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winsornewton.com/row/shop/graphic-markers/pigment-marker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Winsor &amp;amp; Newton Pigment Marker page&lt;/a&gt; only states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I use Pigment Marker with other media, like water colour or oil?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  This is not recommended. The binder used in the formula of any given paint will block the Pigment Marker nib. However, Pigment Marker works with graphite pencils, and further experimentation is always encouraged. &#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Will Winsor &amp;amp; Newton Pigment Marker™ work on standard bleedproof marker paper?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  Bleedproof paper is designed for dye-alcohol markers, which are extremely fast-drying and bleed through paper. Pigment Marker does not bleed through and is slower-drying; therefore, performance will be compromised due the paper’s high absorbency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you should not use the same paper than the alcohol based markers the point is inferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-pigment-markers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blick seller of the W&amp;amp;N markers &lt;/a&gt; has definitive specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Usage Note — &lt;strong&gt;Do not use with alcohol-based markers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However i found a Customer Review on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B015ZF36UU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fantastic. I use this marker with alcohol based markers like copic/prismacolor as a way to add strong highlights. The texture of this marker is basically a paint consistency, so I have to be careful when using it this way. It works well for what I need, blends beautifully. Would recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, maybe you can try dual using the markers in non-essential works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my advice would be not to do it. Even within the same medium it is often problematic to use different brands because of the myriad of proprietary chemicals that could potentially interact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T20:29:42.110" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T20:29:42.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="389" CreationDate="2016-05-10T15:09:45.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are special paints for plastic. If there is nothing in the colour you want, you may use plastic paint as primer/undercoat and use acrylic paint on top of that.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Be aware that plastic has a very smooth surface, so you have to sand it first in order to give the paint some texture to hold.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You may also want to apply a layer of lacquer as a finish, for extra durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T15:09:45.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="398" CreationDate="2016-05-10T15:28:40.923" Score="9" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 'translucent' polymer clay, which more looks like white than translucent. I hoped the baking process turned the clay translucent or transparent, but no luck. I made some very small objects, baked them for approx. 30 minutes at probably slightly more than 100°C/212°F, and took them out of the oven when the 30 minutes passed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I have done something different to get the clay translucent (it was not much different from before it was baked)? Or is it simply not possible at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="137" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T17:31:34.030" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T11:20:31.363" Title="How can 'translucent' polymer clay become really translucent, if possible at all?" Tags="|polymer-clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2016-05-10T20:13:45.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You pretty much can't, unless it's specifically listed in the description of the piece.  The sheer variety of papers used worldwide, and the fact that some creators, like Michael LaFosse, &lt;em&gt;make their own paper&lt;/em&gt; specifically for the model they're folding, means that your chances of accurately identifying the paper used is going to be very very tough, especially if you can't judge the thickness, sizing, or the fiber content by touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the appearance of some papers is very characteristic, and if you have experience with kami, elephant hide, Canson watercolor paper, various craft papers, tissue foil, etc., some of those may be self-evident. Every origami folder tends to be intimately familiar with kami (so-called &quot;origami paper&quot;) and can usually identify it on sight both from appearance and usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Characteristics of the paper that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; lead to identification would be the surface texture being shiny or matte (surface &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sizing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sizing&lt;/a&gt;), fiber appearance/color, thickness/weight, and, of course, the size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T20:13:45.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="400" CreationDate="2016-05-10T20:27:25.243" Score="4" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to learn how to fold &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/wonparkorigami/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Won Park&lt;/a&gt;'s dollar-bill koi, but even with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2wyZQv_pJ4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;his Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; correcting his diagramming mistakes and the series of videos demonstrating how to fold it, I'm not getting anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make a complex model easier to fold during the learning phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T20:43:51.860" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T20:43:51.860" Title="Is there a way to make a complex model easier to fold during the learning phase?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="395" CreationDate="2016-05-10T23:15:55.020" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://thebluebottletree.com/which-is-the-clearest-translucent-polymer-clay/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt; about comparing the various brands of translucent polymer clay, it sounds like the translucent is only apparent when the clay is incredibly thin. The author prepares the clay by running it through a pasta machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I compared every polymer clay brand’s translucent that I could find. I conditioned each clay, carefully avoiding the introduction of bubbles. I rolled sample sheets in the thickest setting (#1) on my Atlas pasta machine and the thinnest (#8) that I could make (the machine goes to a #9, but I’ve never had clay come through that alive). The thick setting is about 1/8″ (3mm) and the thinnest is about the thickness of a playing card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thick setting, when baked, makes the clay barely translucent in all brands, so if your figures are more than 1/8&quot; (3mm) thick, you aren't going to notice the translucency at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cRQk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cRQkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thick setting of translucent clay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the image, you can just barely make out that there is text behind the clay... which is much more visible in the thin clay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hNWH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hNWHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thinnest setting for translucent clay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T17:28:58.900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T17:28:58.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="391" CreationDate="2016-05-11T15:20:01.997" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;To prevent fraying, use a z-stitch (zig-zag stitch) with a standard sewing machine or serge the ends of the fabric before you wash it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently read a lot of guides about washing fabric before sewing and, while they often disagree about whether washing is necessary or not - generally depending on the type of fabric and the end use, the one thing they pretty much universally agree on if you &lt;strong&gt;are&lt;/strong&gt; washing fabric, is that if you want to prevent fraying, stitch the cut ends. Some sites don't seem to be bothered by fraying and recommend simply cutting the strings off afterwards but this seems like a great way to get your fabric tied up in knots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madeeveryday.com/2012/05/ask-dana-prewashing-fabrics-and-overwhelmed-with-projects.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide notes&lt;/a&gt; to consider the weave tightness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, remember that fabrics will fray depending on how tightly they are woven.  Loosely woven fabrics like Linen and some cottons can fray a 1/2 inch or so.  But some cottons and polyesters with a tighter weave might only frizz out on the ends.  And knit fabrics won’t fray at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other common notes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wash the fabric in large pieces rather than small ones as the small pieces can be sucked into the machine's agitator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wash the fabric in the same method you plan to wash the garment - so (as an example) if you're planning to dry clean your wool, dry clean the fabric rather than machine washing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note, with all methods, your results may vary. This quilting site has a forum with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1/prewashing-fraying-t140851.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;topic&lt;/a&gt; where many quilters are discussing preventing fraying and the results are mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different methods mentioned include clipping the corners, using pinking shears, sewing/serging, and simply not doing anything at all because fraying is inevitable... so the top suggestion is to always make sure you have extra fabric to allow for losing an inch or two to fraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few of the comments I thought seemed helpful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;auntpiggylpn&lt;/strong&gt;: I also tried the &amp;quot;Clip the Corners&amp;quot; method and my fabrics still frayed, didn't seem to be any less or more than if I did nothing to the edges. This was also LQS type fabric. I tried the pinking shears trick and it didn't stop the fraying. I've also sewed along the edges prior to washing but it still frayed. Some fabrics don't fray at all and then some others I will loose at least an inch off the total cut. I ALWAYS was in cold on a delicate cycle and only put in the dryer until damp them iron. sorry, I don't have any positive answers for you!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MaryAnnMc&lt;/strong&gt;: I agree, everything I've tried still frays. But I've decided to stick with pinking: it does cut down on the fraying considerably, and I can always tell which fabrics in my stash have been washed. that alone is a good reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;M.I.Late&lt;/strong&gt;:I also just let it fray and just rip off the threads. When I wash fabric, I open it all the way up. I find that some manufacturers don't get it rolled on the bolt completely straight. So, I open it up completely, wash and dry it, refold it so there are no diagonal waves when held selvage to selvage, (I usually lose 1-2 inches here - but it has been as much as 3.) Then I trim it with the rotary cutter and iron it and it gets either used then or stashed for future use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;bearisgray&lt;/strong&gt;: I finally learned to either serge the raw edge or overcast the raw edge with a long, narrow zigzag stitch before washing. I lose - at the most - about 1/8 inch of fabric when I zigzag the edges - none when I overcast if I remove the stitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T18:37:00.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2016-05-11T18:07:24.307" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of things that come to mind:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't try to run if you cannot walk yet. In other words: do some simple projects first. You obviously like the finished results of the more complex ones better. But by trying easier ones first, you gain experience on how to read the diagrams, and you're practising the techniques for precise folds. Plus: better a nicely finished 'easy' project and the feeling that you succeeded, than a complex ball of paper and you giving up completely, don't you think?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger paper makes things easier to see and to fold. I know dollar bills come in only one size, so you'll need to cut your own piece of paper. Make sure the proportions match.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you insist on folding the complex item, try to figure out till which point you still understand the steps; you must absolutely be sure whether folds go up or down, or maybe between two parts of the paper. Your result may look similar, but if it's not completely the same, you'll find out sooner or later. So, check and double check and maybe ask someone else if they notice any differences.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, wishing you a lot of fish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T18:07:24.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-11T20:44:47.483" Score="12" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am inheriting an old electric kiln. It has three stackable heating elements and the data plates on each stacking ring says &quot;Petterson Multi-Unit Kiln&quot;, I can't seem to find much about this on Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The data plates each specify a maximum temperature of 1950°F (1065°C), and are rated at 250V, with 10A, 10A, and 9A current ratings (each with its own cord). When all three are used together, would this kiln be capable of getting hotter than 1950°F, such as to fire stoneware or porcelain (cone 6 to 10)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there a preferred way to test the kiln to ensure it is functioning correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="220" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T03:55:06.423" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T17:02:25.243" Title="Multi-unit pottery kiln - how hot can it go?" Tags="|ceramics|kiln|pottery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2016-05-12T17:21:25.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Maybe, but it's probably not a good idea.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one thing, the package says not to do it. The manufacturer isn't just saying that because they want you to buy a toaster oven -- putting it in the microwave will result in burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because microwaves don’t heat evenly, parts of the mass will begin to&#xA;  cure and harden while others remain soft. Microwave ovens heat the&#xA;  inside of clay just as much as the outside, so as the cooking&#xA;  continues, parts of the mass will begin to superheat, melt, and&#xA;  actually bubble and boil while other parts of the polymer clay mass&#xA;  will merely begin to harden.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://thebluebottletree.com/bake-polymer-clay-microwave/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can you Bake Polymer Clay in the Microwave?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only will that ruin the project, it releases fumes which at best smell terrible, and at worst can cause respiratory distress and damage. For health and safety reasons, you shouldn't microwave polymer clay on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some crafters do say you can microwave polymer clay as long as it is completely submerged in water. Basically, this is boiling the item to heat it and cure it, but in a microwave rather than on a stovetop.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Sources: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artist-how-to.com/MicrowavePC.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;[1]&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garieinternational.com.sg/clay/shop/microwave.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;[2]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, some crafters say you still shouldn't -- the quality of the final piece will suffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some people advocate using a microwave to boil water which contains&#xA;  the polymer clay. The problem with this is that ... boiling water&#xA;  never heats above 212°F (100°C) ... [below] the proper curing&#xA;  temperatures of most brands of polymer clay. While you may find that&#xA;  the item is hard after boiling, it will be incompletely cured and will&#xA;  be weak and easily broken. (This is true for stove-top curing as&#xA;  well.) Some brands of polymer clay will get an icky white residue when&#xA;  boiled... I think there’s room for experimentation there, but it’s&#xA;  very difficult to control the amount of heat the items would be&#xA;  receiving.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://thebluebottletree.com/bake-polymer-clay-microwave/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can you Bake Polymer Clay in the Microwave?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T17:21:25.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="49" CreationDate="2016-05-13T18:34:53.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based upon discussion with some other opal cutters, what I've wound up doing is to use simple white glue to dop the opal (frequently to the head of a nail, instead of a wooden dowel, but for larger opals a dowel works well enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then apply a thin seal of instant glue (&quot;crazy glue&quot;) as a seal around the base of the opal, to protect the white glue from the water while I'm cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I'm done, I dip the opal into turpentine briefly, to dissolve the instant glue seal.  Then soaking it in water for a minute or two dissolves the white glue, releasing the finished cab from the dop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brief immersion in turpentine seems to do no harm to the opal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T18:34:53.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T19:03:00.103" Score="5" ViewCount="1927" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to cutting glass, the simplest thing is cutting straight lines and - arguably - it should be one of the first things to learn. I want to take some glass and cut it into a different size for a custom frame I made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to tools what are my options? When it comes to techniques, with those tools, what should I keep in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T19:16:59.703" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T18:00:21.790" Title="What are the general guidelines for cutting glass with straight lines?" Tags="|tool-selection|glass|stained-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="404" CreationDate="2016-05-13T19:03:00.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This approach will focus on using handheld glass cutters. Much of what is covered here applies to curves as well, however, I will only focus on cutting straight lines. This is one such cutter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Red-Devil-106370-Glass-Cutter/dp/B00004YNNP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DwT5Fm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simple hand held cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Red-Devil-106370-Glass-Cutter/dp/B00004YNNP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most basic and versatile tool for cutting glass is the glass cutter. There are different styles and features, but all will have a cutting wheel. There are different grips, ones with multiple rotating cutters and many have a ball or similar on the opposite end of the tool (Which is used for tapping the glass)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Prepping your work surface&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should, in general, be cutting glass on a hard surface that is clean of debris. While you might be tempted to cut on carpet or softer surface, this would be counter productive. The pressure you exert with the tool on the glass is the most important factor, so you don't want the glass to move at all unless by your own hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool, when used properly, will come into contact with this surface so if you have something hard like a metal top, then you might want to put something down like thin cardboard or a self healing mat so as to not damage your cutter prematurely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean glass debris between your breaks. It does not take much to scratch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Scoring the glass&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass cutting with hand tools relies on scoring the glass. You are placing a shallow cut/fissure into the glass to guide the eventual break. Getting the perfect score &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be difficult to get perfect, but following some basic guidelines, it can be done. If your tool is not self lubricating then you should make sure you lubricate the wheel. This will prevent it from getting locked up with glass shards and binding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want the score to be deep enough that it cuts into the glass but not so deep that it starts throwing off chips. The sound the glass is making while your a cutting is important. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAlrlFyEAt4&amp;amp;t=4m29s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;It should sound like a light zipper&lt;/a&gt; and the sound should be continuous from the start to the finish of the cut. Always start and end the score off the glass and avoid hesitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Break the glass&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a good score line you should be able to break the glass with ease. These are general approaches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Score away from the edge of the glass&lt;/strong&gt;: Most cuts you should be able to do with your hand as long as there is room. Place your thumbs close on both sides of the score line. Start applying leverage like you want to bend it in half. Much in the same way you break a chocolate bar. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Score near the edge&lt;/strong&gt;: If you are having issues getting a hold with your hand then you can use glass pliers or running pliers. Basically pliers with curved jaws with a rubber-like covering to protect the glass. The curved jaws work the glass the same as your hands, using the score line like a fulcrum. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freepatternsforstainedglass.com/running-pliers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOtc6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Running Pliers on glass&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freepatternsforstainedglass.com/running-pliers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;freepatternsforstainedglass.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other variations of hand and tool positions exist. It's a matter of applying pressure close to the score line to encourage a break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are having issues getting the break to start you might not have a good score line, the glass might be thick, or you might need to exert more pressure to start the break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the ball of the cutter to tap near the score line &lt;em&gt;on the other side&lt;/em&gt;. Run the ball at the edge of the glass and follow the score line along. You likely can see the glass start to break when it gets easier to see. Once that is done you can come back to hands or pliers and try to break again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your score is weak &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; try to score on the same line again. It can damage the tool and will create an unpredictable breaking score line. Instead try scoring again on the other side of the glass. While this still could have problems, it is a better 2nd chance approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of several good videos that covers this and similar topic &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAlrlFyEAt4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAlrlFyEAt4&amp;amp;t=4m29s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listen to the sound the glass makes when scoring properly&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T18:00:21.790" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T18:00:21.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="420" CreationDate="2016-05-13T20:09:31.133" Score="10" ViewCount="6868" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've all been there.  You think it's a square. It looks like a square. You fold it into a bird base, and well, it's that tiny bit off.  And that error multiplies as you go farther and farther down the line to the finished model, until all the compounding inaccuracies keep you from having neatly finished details and your model looks messy.  Or you've used a guillotine cutter that looks like its edge guide would be accurate, but isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you start with the perfect square? Are the recommendations for the types of cutters (guillotine, rotary, straight-edge &amp;amp; knife) to use?  Is there a way of guaranteeing a perfectly proportioned square for folding? Especially for larger squares for complex models you may be cutting from rolls of paper, rather than sheets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T22:56:35.000" Title="How do I cut a perfect square out of paper for origami folding?" Tags="|paper|origami|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T21:14:35.307" Score="13" ViewCount="32449" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not too long ago, my family’s dog was put down and we spread the ashes on one of her favourite (or so we assume) walkies routes. I want to create some kind of tombstone for her. I was thinking of painting a stone and then placing it at the side of the path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the location is in the outside at the edge of a forest, the stone would be subject to weather influences: rain, snow, frost, sunshine. Naturally, I want the stone’s paint to survive these conditions. Also, wildlife may pass. I want the paint to be as harmless as possible to the surrounding nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of paint should I go looking for that satisfies the conditions highlighted in the paragraph above? And in case that paint may require specific handling, please also highlight some relevant points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="223" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T23:56:27.670" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T20:46:06.473" Title="What type of paint should I use for stone painting meant for outside" Tags="|paint|stones|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="406" CreationDate="2016-05-14T00:22:15.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This works better if at least two of the sides are parallel. It is required that one corner is at a right angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am trying to get perfect squares in paper I fold the paper in half diagonally. Not across the center exactly but more so that the two sides that make up one corner are brought together. Any paper that sticks out after that is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcGawm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcGawm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Crude example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above image the paper is fold from the bottom left into the upper right so that the top edge has no overlap. The grey is what would be waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting rid of that excess paper can be challenging as there is usually only a sliver at times. What I do is put a metal ruler down along the edge and use a craft knife. Start where the paper is thicker. Avoid moving the ruler even after the first cut is done. If you have to get rid of left over slivers or tufts you can usually take a few short passes without ruining the new edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T00:22:15.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2016-05-14T00:52:56.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The German method is also called Continental Knitting. &#xA;It is a method of knitting with 2 needles, and a type of style of how you hold your yarn and needles. You would hold the yarn in your &lt;strong&gt;left&lt;/strong&gt; hand and your right hand will be on your working needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/the-knit-stitch-continental-continental&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/the-knit-stitch-continental-continental&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another style is called English Knitting, also known as right-hand knitting or throwing. The yarn is carried in your &lt;strong&gt;right&lt;/strong&gt; hand instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/the-knit-stitch-english-english&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/the-knit-stitch-english-english&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the main difference between the two is the way the yarn is wrapped around the right needle before it’s pulled through to knit a stitch. The choice between them though is merely preference for the most part as they both create the same resulting fabric. But here is more detailed post explaining the differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/02/english-vs-continental-knitting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/02/english-vs-continental-knitting/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for French knitting, as far as I know it is a type of tubular knitting, not 2 needles, which requires a knitting spool instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="225" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T00:52:56.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T00:54:06.573" Score="9" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm stuck on Step 70 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://origami.gr.jp/~hojyo/103buddha.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hojyo Takashi's Buddha&lt;/a&gt; (the one in the 6th Tanteidan Convention book), and I don't read Japanese:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOAiP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOAiP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tanteidan 6th Convention diagram for Step 70 of Hojyo&amp;#39;s Buddha&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, from Step 71, I'm pulling paper around to cover the front of the wrist, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to flip the paper around and leave the rest of the hand the same.  What am I missing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Closeup of the Japanese text for the Step 70 description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dIiX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dIiX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Step 70 text close-up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing Japanese OCR, hand-fixing the scanos, and running it through Google translate has been &lt;em&gt;no help at all.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T16:02:17.850" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T07:17:08.097" Title="I'm stuck on Step 70 of HOJYO Takashi's Buddha... what does the diagram mean?" Tags="|origami|yoshizawa-randlett|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="412" CreationDate="2016-05-14T00:58:29.060" Score="15" ViewCount="7874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't draw much and can't even call myself an amateur yet. As a result I make a lot of mistakes and also many test strokes when drawing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small touch ups and mistakes the eraser is my best friend. However, my big white eraser does not help much when I need to only make small corrections. It can remove larger areas around where I am erasing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I am talking about erasing small areas less than a centimeter in diameter. What can I do to make my erasing more targeted and only affect the areas I want to remove?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T01:26:53.637" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T19:39:23.527" Title="What can I do to ensure I only erase the smaller details without affecting the area around it?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2016-05-14T02:27:44.790" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehappyevercrafter.com/blog/little-known-lettering-tool-eraser-shield/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;erasing shield/stencil&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C7pj2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C7pj2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An erasing shield is a metal stencil that can mask off the parts of your drawing you want to protect, while exposing only the area you want to erase, so you can erase with more precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2021-09-30T19:39:23.527" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T19:39:23.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="415" CreationDate="2016-05-14T02:33:34.880" Score="5" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm really getting tired of repeatedly having to measure out and draw guide and slope lines for lettering or calligraphy with a ruler.  Is there a faster, easier, more consistent way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T14:16:35.240" Title="How can I quickly and easily pencil in guide and slant lines for lettering/calligraphy?" Tags="|tool-selection|calligraphy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2016-05-14T04:34:02.820" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would first suggest a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kneaded_eraser&quot;&gt;kneaded eraser&lt;/a&gt;, if you don't use one already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A kneaded eraser can be shaped like putty. This means you can form points, lines, and a variety of other erasing surfaces with it. This allows you to easily erase just the place you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it doesn't erase the same way as your rubber or Mars plastic (polymer) erasers, which leave bits behind and may wear down you paper. It actually lifts up your graphite or charcoal marks. This means you don't have to brush or blow the residue away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This property also allows you to only partially erase something. For instance, you may have placed a large swath of grey that's a couple shades too dark. You can pat at the dark area to lighten it, instead of erasing it and starting over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried and own eraser shields, but they don't work very well with erasers that have lost their edges. When I do use them, it's with my kneaded erasers and not my polymer erasers. In that case, they work very well as stencils for the point you knead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the points, you need to roll them thick and shallow instead of thin and steep, in order to have enough strength in the tip to hold up. I generally just make a ball, pinch part, and make a cone out of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you want to erase very finely, such as adding highlights to hair. In that case, you can leave the point long and thin, and it will gently lift up fine lines of pencil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you start using kneaded erasers, you'll find that they're really an entirely new implement, quite unlike regular erasers. Since you can adjust the amount you erase by changing pressure and eraser shape and even the &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; you apply pressure (standard erasing motion, patting, rolling, stippling!), you can get very fine control over what you're doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you don't have to worry about erasing holes in your paper! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to be fair, kneaded erasers have downsides. The harder your lead (4H and up), the less effective I find these. Likewise, the harder you press with your pencil, the less effective they are, because they can't pick up the graphite dust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the kneaded eraser won't do it, use a polymer eraser (I throw out rubber erasers). You can always use a craft knife to &quot;sharpen&quot; them into a point or chisel. Sharpening polymer erasers makes them work much better with eraser shields, too! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T16:05:00.680" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:05:00.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="413" CreationDate="2016-05-14T05:43:06.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you're using a straight-edge table, and get yourself a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-square&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;T-Square&lt;/a&gt;, and an Ames lettering guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZUWa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZUWa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel on the Ames lettering guide rotates, so you can adjust the size between the lines, and the different hole sets account for different ascender/descender/height spacings for different styles of lettering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your paper is taped down, and straight with regards to the T-square (in a pinch you can use a ruler), and then simply put your pencil in the appropriate holes, and slide the letter guide across the t-square's edge.  Sliding the T-square up and down along the desk edge lets you do different sets of lines quickly and easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ames also allows for drawing slant lines at 68º. For other angles, you can use drafting triangles, either fixed or adjustable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thepensivepen.com/2013/12/guidelines.html#scales&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thepensivepen.com/2013/12/guidelines.html#scales&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T05:43:06.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="323" CreationDate="2016-05-14T06:50:06.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I understand that ink in fountain pen cartridges is a bit thinner. Can I still use it for dip pens if I squeeze it out of the cartridges? ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, a syringe typically works best for extracting or injecting inks into cartridges than squeezing. It's extraordinarily easy to buy blunt-needled syringes these days (walmart.com lists a set of four for &amp;lt;$3) because they're used by folks who want to refill their inkjet printer cartridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fountain pen inks are &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; water-soluble dyes. This is to make sure that you can always unclog a fountain pen by simply soaking or rinsing with water.  The vast majority of fountain pen inks actually use the same commercial dyes that are used on cloth—I think only a handful of brands mix their own (J. Herbin, Noodlers, Private Reserve). So, you could probably just leave the ink uncovered for a while to get some of the water to evaporate which will concentrate the dye. But it won't get any more viscous or less transparent, because it's water based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some fountain pen inks (such as Private Reserve) are known to be harbingers of fungus. So if the ink that came out of the cartridge was sludgy or gel-like, rather than liquid, dump it. It's more trouble than it's worth at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dip pen nibs, unlike fountain pens, have no hard-to-reach areas, and being metal are safe to use with solvents, so opaque pigment-based inks like india ink can be used with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T06:50:06.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="413" CreationDate="2016-05-14T11:23:56.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; This is a more expensive, albeit an efficient method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Requirements:&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bright lightbox, or lightpad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A grid printout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative would be to &lt;strong&gt;get a lightbox/lightpad&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;place gridded paper beneath&lt;/strong&gt; the sheet you are drawing to. When illuminated, the grid should be visible through your worksheet (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;this depends on the brightness of your lightpad, and the thickness of the paper you are writing on&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tested my own lightpad with 300gsm watercolour paper and it shines through quite well (it's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IZQZXTE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Huoin&lt;/a&gt;, though there are similar products available on Amazon. Make sure your lightpad is bright enough to shine through your desired paper! My lightpad's brightness is advertised as &quot;1758 cd/ m2, luminous flux: 1800~2100 mcd&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grid that you use will depend on the size of the letters and your choice of calligraphy style. A quick google image search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ie/search?q=lettering%20grid&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;client=firefox-b-ab&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj-6vixu9nMAhXKfRoKHdoHCFkQsAQIJQ&amp;amp;biw=1333&amp;amp;bih=658#safe=off&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=calligraphy%20grid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;calligraphy grid&quot;&lt;/a&gt; yields plenty of useful grids, including italicized grid lines for italic scripts. A simple printout of the grid is all you need, printed at the scale you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method allows you to work at a faster pace, and reuse the paper grids again and again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastEditorUserId="72" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T14:16:35.240" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T14:16:35.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T12:15:19.070" Score="8" ViewCount="758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to create some sculptures using &lt;strong&gt;papercraft &amp;amp; kirigami techniques&lt;/strong&gt;, however I am looking for an &lt;strong&gt;alternative (stronger) material to paper&lt;/strong&gt; with some/all of the following properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easily cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flexible/foldable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stronger/more durable than paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat resistant (in the case of lampshade designs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All comments/suggestions are welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:59:48.687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:59:48.687" Title="A stronger material than paper for Kirigami or papercraft-inspired designs?" Tags="|paper|papercutting|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2016-05-14T17:44:10.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One strong contender is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyvek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tyvek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be cut like paper, but is much tougher, water resistant, and has a class A flammability rating, according to Wikipedia. The problem is keeping it folded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kirigami-made-of-tyvek links I'm finding are scientific papers that mention bonding the tyvek to a heat-shrink plastic (presumably on the valley fold side of each fold), and then baking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://scientific-kirigami.blogspot.com/p/movies.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://scientific-kirigami.blogspot.com/p/movies.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://arxiv.org/pdf/1408.6480.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Making the Cut: Lattice Kirigami Rules (PDF link)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-05-14T22:29:53.953" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T22:29:53.953" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="406" CreationDate="2016-05-14T19:24:37.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get a square from any shape of paper, makes sure you have a protective cutting surface, a straight edge, and a way of making straight cuts on paper all of which are large enough to accommodate the size of the piece of paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make a straight fold halfway across the paper (corner to corner, if there are discernible corners, will reduce wastage).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fold the paper in half again, lining up the folded edge with itself. You should have four layers, and a right angle corner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Travel down the edge to where you know you still have all four layers, and mark it with a small crease.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark the same length down the other side of the right angle. You can take a measurement, or fold crease-to-crease to mark the other side. Make sure you're back to the quartered/right angle fold before the next steps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;[optional] Mark, emboss, or fold a straight line from one mark to the other. You should now have a folded 45º-90º-45º right triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut the paper on a straight line between the two marks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unfold your perfect square.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T19:24:37.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-15T15:12:13.013" Score="6" ViewCount="2038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a standard sewing machine, but am thinking about buying a machine that is better suited to knits. I thought they were are all just &quot;sergers&quot; but after doing some research I've heard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;serger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coverstitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coverlock / overlock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences in function between these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T22:28:33.267" Title="What is the difference between serger, coverstitch, and overlock machines?" Tags="|tool-selection|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="481" CreationDate="2016-05-15T16:31:46.610" Score="12" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about doing a knitted project with beads. I am wondering if there is a difference in stability between prestringing the beads and placing the beads. I would like for the beads to move as little as possible in the finished object. (If it matters, the finished object is likely to be a shawl.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of this question, please assume that the beads in question are large enough in relation to the yarn that both techniques are possible. My smallest crochet hook is a size 5/1.90mm. Purchasing a smaller one is not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prestringing = Placing all of the beads onto the yarn and then knitting with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Placing a bead = Adding the bead when you knit the stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T00:08:49.110" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T00:08:49.110" Title="Is there a difference in stability between prestringing and placing a bead?" Tags="|knitting|beads|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="391" CreationDate="2016-05-16T02:45:06.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is best to wash every fabric you use in the same method you would use to wash it after you use it.  You don't want to spend time making something that shrinks to unusable proportions after cleaning it.   If you never intend to wash it, don't bother.  If your going to need to dry clean it dry-clean it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to dry-clean it you should do a loose zig-zag stitch over the ends.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For stuff that you will wash later that home, clip each corner at a 45 degree angle (just cut the corners off the fabric, I usually clip about 2 inches) then toss it into the laundry with a few clean towels that have been washed so many times that there is no chance the colour will run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T23:58:22.993" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T23:58:22.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2016-05-16T02:59:22.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a dowel in the diameter you want, drill a hole in one end and put the wire in it, attach the other end to the chuck of a drill and press go!  Make sure its operated slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't take the spring you made off the dowel at this point.  Take a dremmel and just cut down the side.  If you are making tonnes, you might want to make a jig to make this faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T10:30:04.203" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T10:30:04.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="426" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:05:58.483" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T15:05:58.483" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T15:05:58.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="427" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:05:58.483" Score="0" Body="Primarily for questions involving graphite pencils as a medium. Also for general pencil questions that are medium independent, such as grip. Use the colored pencil and charcoal tags for those specific mediums." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T22:47:07.803" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:47:07.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="428" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:55:35.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, and ropemaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the top question could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of yarn I most use for this project?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be used together with e.g.&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/crocheting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;crocheting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;crocheting&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sewing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sewing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2495" LastEditorUserId="2495" LastEditDate="2017-08-22T13:42:26.880" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T13:42:26.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="429" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-16T15:55:35.560" Score="0" Body="Questions about the use, properties and selection of yarn. " OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T22:45:39.780" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:45:39.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="430" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-16T16:35:20.607" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T10:55:59.217" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T10:55:59.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="431" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-16T16:35:20.607" Score="0" Body="For questions about the general nature of color and color theories, but not about the process of applying color to works. For the latter, use the specific medium tag (e.g. [watercolor], [oil-paint], [chalk-pastels])." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T10:55:59.217" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T10:55:59.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="432" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-16T16:47:02.267" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T16:47:02.267" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T16:47:02.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="433" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-16T16:47:02.267" Score="0" Body="For questions about working with ABS plastic (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene), either molding it personally or working with existing ABS objects." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T22:45:56.873" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:45:56.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="421" CreationDate="2016-05-16T20:41:57.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dug around a bit and found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shwinandshwin.com/2014/03/knits-102-cover-stitch-and-overlock.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From Knits 102&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;cover stitch&lt;/strong&gt; is the double (or triple) stitch used for hemming knits or topstitching seams that need stretch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zWFxy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zWFxym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Knits 102 image of the coverstitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is - double stitch on one side and the chain stitch on the back side which allows for the stretching of the seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Serger stitch - wraps around the edge of the fabric and is invisible on the top side of the fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HGyw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HGywm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Serger Stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems from what I'm reading to be synonymous with an overlock stitch - From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onelittleminuteblog.com/2013/01/serger-and-coverstitch-techniques-stretch-yourself/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OneLittleMinute Blog&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OVERLOCK STITCH: This is the basic serger stitch. It can be sewn with 2-5 threads, but the most basic uses either 3 or 4. It is called an overlock stitch because the threads are cast over the raw edge of the fabric, locking it into a finish that won’t unravel or fray. When using a serger for basic overlocking, you can sew even when there is not fabric under the needles. This is called “chaining”. It makes it really easy, because you can put your foot on the pedal and start serging, feed the fabric through to create your seam, and then chain right off the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fashion-incubator.com/flatlocking-compared-to-cover-stitching-and-overlocking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fashion Incubator&lt;/a&gt; suggests that a coverstitch machine does less than a serger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't gotten into buying a serger yet, but my quick poking suggests that a serger can be a somewhat generic name - and it's worth it to learn exactly what stitches - overlock, cover stitch, and flatlock - it does.  As ever, also, be sure to learn how it works for hems and blindhems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T22:28:33.267" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T22:28:33.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T00:49:44.483" Score="5" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife bought a Santa ornament at a craft show. It is painted wood with a thick rough material that makes up his beard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VtpaF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VtpaFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Santa Ornament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click image to enlarge&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For whatever reason he took a fall from the hibiscus he was hanging from. He beard was brittle and broke into dozens of pieces. I used epoxy to attached the larger segments back together but there we too many small ones that would just look ugly if I continued that way. Here is a close up of the end of his beard if it helps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0Gdm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K0Gdm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;santas beard tip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a guess as to what was used to create Santa's beard? If nothing else I was going try and use drywall compound and paint white. Not sure how well that will work and I would prefer not ruining it if it can be avoided. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T03:51:12.690" Title="What is Santa's beard made from?" Tags="|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="436" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-17T00:51:06.327" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T00:51:06.327" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T00:51:06.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="437" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-17T00:51:06.327" Score="0" Body="When you are not sure what material to use as a base for your project or task, such as type of fabric, paper or metal. Try to be as specific as possible to help narrow down choices. " OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T14:35:27.140" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T14:35:27.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="438" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-17T00:52:45.653" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T00:52:45.653" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T00:52:45.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="439" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-17T00:52:45.653" Score="0" Body="Defining, explaining or finding terms used for the tools, materials or techniques used in crafting." OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T22:47:19.803" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:47:19.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="440" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-17T00:54:42.357" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T00:54:42.357" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T00:54:42.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="441" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-17T00:54:42.357" Score="0" Body="Specifically for questions about crafts primarily using wood." OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T22:46:53.597" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:46:53.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T01:27:08.140" Score="7" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was making some clip on ties for work for me to wear on casual Fridays. I could not wear regular ties with t-shirts as that would just look odd. I picked up some second hand ties to make into clip on ties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fairly easy thing to do but the issue came when I had to shorten the tail of the tie. I needed to but about 5-8 inches off and sewing them back together was difficult. The fibers used in the ties are very frail especially when cut. I had to sew deeper into the tie to get it to close even a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result was less than satisfactory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhK5f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhK5fm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bad tie splice&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Click image to enlarge&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make sewing this back together by hand a cleaner venture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T00:27:20.227" Title="How can I splice the tail of my tie and have it not look terrible?" Tags="|sewing|clothing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2016-05-17T01:27:08.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to stiffen the fibres so that the thread does not tear though them while you are sewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Clear nail polish&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up buying a small container and applied in all along the edges of the tie tail. About a 1/4 inch all around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After letting it dry it gave something for the thread to hold onto. Made it loads easier to get cleaner results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJziK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJziK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Better done tie splice&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T01:27:08.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="435" CreationDate="2016-05-17T03:51:12.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to know for sure, but it looks to me like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plaster#Gypsum_plaster_.28plaster_of_Paris.29&quot;&gt;plaster of Paris&lt;/a&gt;, also known sometimes as craft plaster when sold in craft stores, which is basically just gypsum plaster. Since it is real plaster, it would be fairly brittle and prone to breaking, especially when applied in a thin layer, as it seems to be on your Santa. It also generally dries white, which would explain the lack of brush stroke on the beard - no paint seems to have been applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried adding plaster on top of already dried plaster, so I don't know if it would stick well. Plaster of Paris also generally comes in packages of at least one pound of powder, so if patching the beard is all you would do with it, it might not be worth it. Drywall compound would likely work fine for patching and might not end up all that different, since it is also made primarily of gypsum powder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T03:51:12.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="374" CreationDate="2016-05-17T16:09:32.257" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yarn weight is basically the thickness of a given yarn. There are several ways to refer to yarn weight, but the category, the number of plies, the number of wraps per inch and the gauge range (for both knitting and crocheting) are the most commonly used. The weight of your yarn will affect the size of your finished product, and the size of the needles or hook you will have the most ease to work with. You will always it on your skein package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LouGj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LouGj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Yarn label featuring category and gauge range&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 8 categories of yarn as defined by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craft Yarn Council&lt;/a&gt;: Lace, Super Fine, Fine, Light, Medium, Bulky, Super Bulky and Jumbo. Each category refers to a specific range of the measurements methods. Some categories will sometimes be substituted for a type of yarn, like Worsted for Medium or DK (Double Knitting) for Light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of plies is nowadays probably the least consistent way to talk about yarn weight. Back in the day when knitting was done with actual sheep wool, yarn was measured by the number of single wool yarns in the finished yarn, but with synthetic yarn, it's more difficult to be consistent. For example, a 5 ply yarn in Australia will be called a 6 ply yarn in Germany, but not be standardized in the UK. Yarns below 5 ply are generally pretty consistent though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wraps per inch (wpi) is the the number of times you can fit a yarn within an inch. The thicker the yarn is, the lower its wpi will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gauge range is the number of stitches you can make in a 4 inch or 10 centimeter swatch. This measurement is always double, once for knitting and once for crocheting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a table I made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJEQp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJEQp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Yarn weight table&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T16:09:32.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="450" CreationDate="2016-05-17T16:54:51.283" Score="4" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like the hatching technique especially with pens, or 'calligraphy pens' but I cant seem to get the style correct, I try to hatch but it ends up not looking properly done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any techniques that could help me hatch correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="230" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T18:29:40.290" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T18:43:36.370" Title="How can I do the hatching shading technique properly?" Tags="|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="407" CreationDate="2016-05-17T16:56:07.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, painting stone is not recommended. Having it placed outside, moisture is the condition that will break the bond of any paint.  Your specifications would call for a water based acrylic paint (aka &quot;rubberized&quot;).  I would personally contact a monument company and see what they offer. Alternately, use a cedar board, painted (oil based is best) on all six sides, add black fine brush oil based for lettering.  Stake it in the ground using &quot;green treated&quot; stakes. I had one on a cedar 1x12 last 20 years before it needed repainting.  The monument company is your best bet, if you must have stone. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T13:30:20.277" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T13:30:20.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="389" CreationDate="2016-05-17T17:01:41.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, epoxy is the indestructible, and permanent,  it is difficult to use, an expensive.  But it is the best solution.  IMHO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T17:01:41.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T17:36:39.767" Score="6" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand there are many different kinds of clay, so maybe you could offer advice for clays that will be typical to beginners, or other otherwise buying from common arts stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that red and grey clays are different in this regard, but maybe not?  I know that bubbles are an obvious issue, as is insufficient mixing of add-ins, and large inclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T17:51:14.153" Title="Are there tell-tale signs that clay will crack when fired?" Tags="|ceramics|kiln|clay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="446" CreationDate="2016-05-17T18:43:36.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What are hatching and cross-hatching?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asllinea.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Hatching_2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; from the Drawing Magazine explains the basic idea of hatching and cross-hatching:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At its most basic, &lt;em&gt;hatching&lt;/em&gt;, also called &lt;em&gt;hachure&lt;/em&gt;, refers to setting down a pattern of short, rhythmic, parallel lines close together and evenly spaced in order to darken a passage or increase the sense of form in a drawing. The initial “screen” of hatching may be overlaid with subsequent series of lines drawn at contrasting angles, creating crosshatching&#xA;and further darkening the value of the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... as well as what they can be used for in art:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic illusion of hatching is that a sequence of separate lines will read as a solid value from a slight distance. With hachure a draftsman can evoke a middle tone, a core or cast shadow or the atmosphere around a figure, as well as provide a means by which disparate elements of a drawing are unified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Objectives, techniques, and variations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thevirtualinstructor.com/hatchingcrosshatching.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This online tutorial&lt;/a&gt; with pictures and videos tells you some of the basic techniques and variations of the art of hatching and cross-hatching. I'll provide some of the most useful quotes for introductory guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hatching&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hatching is created when non-crossing lines are used to indicate the value on or around an object. The value added to the object is dependent on the location of a light source. &lt;strong&gt;More marks are added in the areas of core shadow and cast shadow, while less marks should exist in lighter areas.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When hatching is used, &lt;strong&gt;the lines drawn generally go in the same direction and are mostly parallel with each other&lt;/strong&gt;. Sometimes, the lines may curve slightly or even a great bit depending on the contours of the object. Lines of this nature are referred to as cross contour lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When used correctly, cross contour lines can further the illusion of form by giving the viewer information about the actual 3-dimensional qualities of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By changing the frequency of the use of line, and the amount of space between the lines, the artist can create a full range of value in the drawing. Assuming that an artist is working on white paper, &lt;strong&gt;more space between the lines (more paper showing) will lead to lighter values in the drawing. Less space between lines will naturally lead to darker values in the drawing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cross hatching&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cross hatching is used, the artist may begin adding value as hatching, but then allow the lines to cross over each other. &lt;strong&gt;The more that the lines cross over each other, the darker the value becomes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many artists approach the addition of crossing lines as a science, following a &lt;strong&gt;specific order of vertical lines, followed by horizontal lines, followed by diagonal lines, and so on.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This method produces very deliberate and controlled marks that are very exact and precise. Others simply cross the lines at random leading to “looser” drawings.&lt;/strong&gt; Neither way is better, per se. Some looser approaches work better for some subjects, while more rigid approaches are suitable for other subjects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more visual way of learning how to do hatching and cross-hatching, there are various tutorial videos online. Here's one using a calligraphic pen and ink:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHoqh27vQRw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHoqh27vQRw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another one using a pencil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxZwO_tIpns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxZwO_tIpns&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T18:43:36.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="452" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-17T23:18:54.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T23:18:54.983" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T23:18:54.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="453" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-17T23:18:54.983" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding general glues, pastes and tapes. " OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T22:46:02.360" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T22:46:02.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="463" CreationDate="2016-05-17T23:33:51.670" Score="6" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many years ago, I made some small model people and animals out of fabric, wool, old toilet roll tubes, etc. Their heads were usually made out of &lt;strong&gt;pom-poms&lt;/strong&gt; perhaps 5-10 cm in diameter, as you can see in this model of a witch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CpmC5m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CpmC5m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pom-poms&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/77nafm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/77nafm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pom-poms&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a nice simple way of making these pom-poms, which I found in a book (a Ladybird children's book - &lt;em&gt;ah, nostalgia&lt;/em&gt;), but now I can't remember how it went.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I make a pom-pom of this kind?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T20:27:39.577" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T06:40:31.817" Title="How to make a pom-pom?" Tags="|yarn|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="459" CreationDate="2016-05-18T03:49:14.600" Score="10" ViewCount="3517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sharpen my drawing pencils the &quot;proper&quot; way, with a knife. This leaves a large portion of exposed material (graphite, colored pencil, charcoal), usually 3/4 in. to 1.5 in. long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue is finding a way to keep the leads from breaking while I'm taking them from place to place. When I'm just working from home, I keep them point-up in a cup, or laying flat in a tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the pencils in a hard case hasn't helped exactly how I want, because I still feel the need to be overly gentle so that the tips don't get smashed into the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a more reliable way to get my pencils from place to place without sweating about breaking the leads and needing to resharpen them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, I'd like to be able to transport them in a backpack, so long as I'm gentle about setting it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T04:04:33.183" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T11:58:27.513" Title="Keep pencil leads from breaking during transportation?" Tags="|pencils|pencil-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2016-05-18T04:03:37.347" Score="13" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Other options:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Eraser pencils:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a  pencil that is filled with eraser instead of graphite - that's an eraser pencil. Some models have a small brush on the back end for getting rid of eraser dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/sanford-magic-rub-peel-off-eraser-pencil/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sanford Magic Rub Peel-Off Eraser Pencil&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the eraser equivalent of a peel-off &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_pencil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;grease pencil&lt;/a&gt;.  The eraser core is wrapped in paper, and as you wear down the tip, you peel off more paper to expose more eraser.  The eraser can be cut with an exacto knife to make a fine tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltEYEm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltEYEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zIUThm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zIUThm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0026T68FO&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sanford Magic Rub Peel-Off Eraser Pencil&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Faber-Castell Perfection Eraser Pencils:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You sharpen it in a pencil sharpener, just like a normal pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ODMOSm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ODMOSm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/faber-castell-perfection-eraser-pencil/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Faber-Castell Perfection Eraser Pencil, plain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oLgnsm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oLgnsm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/faber-castell-perfection-eraser-pencil/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Faber-Castell Perfection Eraser Pencil, brush tip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mechanical erasers:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They work the same way as mechanical pencils, but instead of graphite, you have a fine point eraser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tombow MONO Zero Eraser:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fine point, pen-style housing, refillable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8G3h1m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8G3h1m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B005IQHCHK&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tombow MONO Zero Eraser, Round 2.3 mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9M4pxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9M4pxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B005IQHCKM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tombow MONO Zero Eraser, Rectangle 2.5 mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sanford Tuff Stuff Eraser Stick:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger point, pen-style housing, refillable (like the Tombow), but the eraser stick is much firmer than the Tombow is, so you can cut the tip into any shape you need with a razor blade or exacto knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4l4wpm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4l4wpm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0006HXI74&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sanford Paper Mate Tuff Stuff Eraser Stick&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Electrical erasers:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The eraser tip spins, allowing you to sharpen it to a tiny point by holding it on a piece of sandpaper at an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toadhollowstudio.com/wp_blog/erasers-for-graphite-pencil/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sakura Cordless Eraser&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85qgZm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/85qgZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001E27CTA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sakura SE2000 Electric Eraser Kit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T04:37:37.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="469" CreationDate="2016-05-18T10:09:17.277" Score="37" ViewCount="11857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't aware that there could be a proper or improper way to sharpen a pencil till I read this (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/455/keep-pencil-leads-from-breaking-during-transportation&quot;&gt;Keep pencil leads from breaking during transportation?&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I sharpen my drawing pencils the &quot;proper&quot; way, with a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is sharpening with a knife considered better than sharpening with a sharpener?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-03T05:14:06.437" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T05:14:06.437" Title="What is the proper way to sharpen a pencil?" Tags="|pencils|sharpening|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2016-05-18T10:55:58.933" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word &quot;proper&quot; is in quotations for a reason: many artists share that opinion, but it's opinion. The proper way depends on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for knife sharpening of pencils is so that you're able to expose more lead at once to facilitate different shading techniques and to minimize lead wastage from standard sharpeners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for colored pencils, many just use really good classic hand sharpeners. This is because many of them are quite fragile and would break too easily if too much of the lead was exposed. Prismacolors, which are very popular, break very easily and so you generally want less of the lead exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the tl;dr response to your question is: no, but many do based on their techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T12:55:50.940" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T12:55:50.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="455" CreationDate="2016-05-18T11:32:38.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A colleague of mine carries her 100+ colored pencil collection in a fabric &lt;strong&gt;pencil roll&lt;/strong&gt;. The pencils slot into little rectangles or elastic along a rectangle of fabric, and then the rectangle is rolled up. It ends up about the size of a water bottle, and fits easily in purse, shoulder bag, or backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While most of these I've seen are for colored pencils (due to the large number that are often transported at once), they should also work for graphite or charcoal pencils. For more delicate exposed tips, a layer of reinforcement or padding can be added to further reduce chance of breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are available commercially made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ckzbg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ckzbg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/yasutomo-niji-roll&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image from Blick&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also find a number of tutorials online to make your own (or ask a crafty friend with a sewing machine to help you out):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05LSr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05LSr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.lovemesew.co.uk/2013/09/27/how-to-make-a-coloured-pencil-roll/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image from Love me Sew pencil roll tutorial&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T11:32:38.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="454" CreationDate="2016-05-18T11:43:48.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The method I learned in grade school goes like this. I'll try to get some pictures of this later to better illustrate the technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find yarn in the color(s) you want in your pom-pom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loop it around your fingers repeatedly. The more fingers you use, the &quot;fatter&quot; the final pom-pom will be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the loops off your fingers, and tie (a separate piece of yarn) firmly around the center of the loop group. It should now look like an 8 or ∞.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut through the loops on each end, so you've got a bunch of yarn strands tied in the middle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fluff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T11:43:48.967" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="455" CreationDate="2016-05-18T11:49:31.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You either need to immobilize the pencil in a separate container or put something on the end of the pencil to absorb the impact of being hit. &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/459/44&quot;&gt;Erica covers immobilizing the pencils well&lt;/a&gt; so I will focus on impact protections. Several products will be shown here. I am not endorsing any in particular but showcasing some different designs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pencil caps&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see several commercial options in the form of caps. Many variations of materials e.g. metal, plastic and leather as well as more complete products like you would see in a normal pen cap (the enclosure plus the clip to give you an example). In theory, quality and longevity play a part in selection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://choosingkeeping.com/products/4-aluminium-pencil-caps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6c885m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://choosingkeeping.com/products/4-aluminium-pencil-caps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;choosingkeeping.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with most of those caps comes from the length of the point you are protecting. Also, some rely on pressure exerted on the shaft of the pencil. The end fans out as you push it on the pencil. Keep a good grip but you could argue that it mars the shaft if you push too hard or too far. This is more an issue with the metal varieties but you could still get some compression on the plastic ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all work like that though&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mochithings.com/products/5791&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHZNHm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mochithings.com/products/5791&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mochithings.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what those look like on the inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caps would be more beneficial if there was fewer pencils you were transporting / keeping at one time. This also allows you to keep the implements in the same case as other related tools like erasers and sharpeners if you don't already have a means of doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are DIY options like making your own from a small piece of leather or tape and paper in quick fix but those are less useful when it some to long exposed graphite and cores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T11:58:27.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="449" CreationDate="2016-05-18T11:59:26.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Look out for &quot;veins&quot; in the clay as it is altered and manipulated from its original resting state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Veins might also look like threads or mini cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T17:30:05.763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T17:30:05.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="454" CreationDate="2016-05-18T12:17:23.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A variation on &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/460/44&quot;&gt;Erica's answer&lt;/a&gt; there are a couple of things you can do differently if making &lt;em&gt;smaller&lt;/em&gt; pom poms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap the yarn around a common fork. Using more yarn (more loops) will give you a more uniform/spherical appearance. If possible leave a small space between the tines of the fork and body of the fork. This makes the next step easier. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a single strand of yarn and tie it around the loops. You can place it in-between the fork tines in order to get around the yarn loops. Make it tight. (You could also just use a pipe cleaner depending on how you plan to use them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the loops out just the same. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can fluff up the end of the pompom by using something &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; a wire brush. Using the brush all around the surface will fray the ends creating a more solid appearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clonesnclowns.com/2013/10/23/diy-how-to-make-faux-fur-pompoms/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wLgwtm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Wool yarn brushed. Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clonesnclowns.com/2013/10/23/diy-how-to-make-faux-fur-pompoms/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clonesnclowns.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using small scissors, like sewing scissors, to clean up if some of the frays got out of control. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjxJFcm16r0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video showing the use of the above process minus the brush&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cardboard Disc Method&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make larger poms or to try and help make ones different sized ones consistently then you can try using a pair of cardboard discs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following will consist of stills from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EULHNtikVxg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; that outlines this procedure nicely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make two cardboard discs. They will be shaped like a doughnut with pie slice removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgLNtm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgLNtm.png&quot; alt=&quot;The discs&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place a small tail of yarn in between those discs. You will be using this to tie of later much in the same way as the other method above. This is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; important part as this will be used to hold the whole pom together. You need to always be aware of where this string is during the process and not lose in inside the yarn wraps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your yarn is weak and prone to snapping under tension you should use something stronger. Wire work here as well if these will be part of a larger project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlNFem.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlNFem.png&quot; alt=&quot;The center yarn&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Starting wrapping as much yarn as you deem necessary around the doughnut/circle. The more you use the tighter your pom will be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x2ARjm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x2ARjm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Start wrapping&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get scissors and cut the yarn in between the discs. Again, be aware of the location of the yarn tail so as to not cut it or lose it. You will have to hold the center of the discs to keep them together until you tie off. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the tail and tie around the cut yarn. You should be able to remove the disc now. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that the rest is the same. Fluff up the yarn to make your ball. Trim to get a more spherical shape. Use a brush if that effect is desired.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Disc Variation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is at least one other variation to the cardboard disc method that uses specialized templates. It claims to be 5 times faster. If you are making more than a fair share of these it would be worth considering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homemade-gifts-made-easy.com/how-to-make-pom-poms.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGiyNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;disc variation template&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homemade-gifts-made-easy.com/how-to-make-pom-poms.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homemade-gifts-made-easy.com&lt;/a&gt;. Two of them, wrapped with yarn, would be used to make a pom&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T18:25:56.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="422" CreationDate="2016-05-18T13:53:24.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience in doing both, I largely prefer to place the beads. Pre-strung causes a whole host of issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharp Beads may fray or cut your yarn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beads (especially glass beads) can easily break. You will have to string extras to account for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The aggravation of having to move potentially hundreds (or more for a more complecated design) of beads down your yarn with each pull from the skein or ball. This can put additional stress on the yarn, causing halos or fuzzing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For others that may not have a small enough crochet hook, a small piece of wire or dental floss can be used to &quot;hook&quot; the yarn, and pull it through the bead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T13:53:24.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="465" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-18T14:08:34.933" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T14:08:34.933" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T14:08:34.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="466" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-18T14:08:34.933" Score="0" Body="A liquid substance spread over a surface to apply color. Use for general questions about paint, or when trying to select an appropriate paint for a project. For the process of applying paint, the &quot;painting&quot; tag instead." OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:04:45.490" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T02:04:45.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="467" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-18T15:53:26.347" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T15:53:26.347" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T15:53:26.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="468" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-18T15:53:26.347" Score="0" Body="For questions about selecting the media to be applied to a project, such as what type of paint, pencil or adhesive." OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:25:29.897" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T02:25:29.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2016-05-18T16:14:16.990" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, full disclaimer. I wrote that original comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sharpen my drawing pencils the &amp;quot;proper&amp;quot; way, with a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was intending to be tongue-in-cheek, because you may find a lot of comments or tutorials online insisting that this is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; right way to sharpen a pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that it's the case, but I've now written a little tutorial about the &amp;quot;proper&amp;quot; way to sharpen a pencil, and also some pointers about sharpening pencils in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why use a knife?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a knife to sharpen your pencil allows you to control the length and the shape of the exposed core. This, then, gives you more control over the types of strokes you'll be able to make. Longer points mean you can lay down wider lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A knife is very helpful for sharpening graphite, charcoal, and pastel pencils. These types of materials hold up to the process better, and wider lines are more likely to be sought from them. As &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/458/24&quot;&gt;John Cavan&lt;/a&gt; pointed out, colored pencils don't really hold up to the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What you'll need:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLbxHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLbxHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A sandpaper pad or block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pencil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A very sharp knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quick way to get rid of the shavings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The knife needs to be very sharp, because you don't want to apply much pressure to the pencil at all. The more pressure you have to apply, the more likely you are to break the exposed core &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; cause internal stress fractures that don't show up until much later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the knife is very sharp, please be careful. I prefer to use a utility knife, as shown, because the blades are sharp and easily replaceable when dull. I have used pocket knives before, but sharpening them is a whole other process. If you've never used a utility knife before, be aware that they generally come with spare blades inside them, so you don't have to buy extras right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've only just started sharpening pencils this way, &lt;strong&gt;please use cheap pencils&lt;/strong&gt;. It's very common to break pencils until you get the hang of this. Practice the technique on something you're fine with throwing away. That said, be aware that some cheaper pencils use really cheap wood, which may be harder or more prone to splitting. You generally won't have that problem with actual art pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually sharpen directly over a small trash can, but today I'm doing it over some scrap paper I can just pick up and shake out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1. Starting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Always hold the knife with the blade facing away from you. If you're concerned about the shavings flying into your eye, wear safety goggles.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l291hm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l291hm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold the knife at about a 90 degree angle to your pencil, with the blade laying nearly flat against the wood. With the hand holding the pencil, put your thumb against the back of the blade and apply a slight pressure. You will start sharpening by pushing against the knife with your thumb, but &lt;strong&gt;holding the knife completely still&lt;/strong&gt;. The hand with the pencil will do all the work, adjusting the speed and pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do shallow but long strokes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dpzrxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dpzrxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5qhym.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5qhym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should end up with plenty of shavings, as you can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2. Refining the tip&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you start to expose the core, be careful not to nick it. At first you'll start with only a small bit exposed, but then slowly work your way to exposing the full length you want. Make sure you're not just taking wood off the very front, but going back further up the pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bwIoLm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bwIoLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jga5Im.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jga5Im.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As picture above, I started by exposing only a small amount, but then shaved portions away from the entire tip to have more lead exposed. If you only work towards the front, the cone of the wood will be too short and increase the likelihood of breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I have what I feel is about the correct length, I test the angle of the wood against a flat surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7len7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7len7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can't get the wood flush with the surface, that's no good. The purpose of this type of sharpening is to allow for strokes using the full flat of the lead. If the wood is curved inwards (as seen above) or too short, then trying to use the flat may cause breakage. If the slope doesn't flow well into your actual core, then trying to lay the flat of the pencil down may only yield strokes with part of the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't happy with my slope, so I worked at it some more. At this point, I do small, quick shavings while rotating the pencil. I'll do this by using the knife to do the work, instead of pushing with my thumb, as it's much faster. However, I've practiced on a bunch of pencils and I'm confident I won't gouge my wood or break the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up with a much smoother slope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/USIPY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/USIPY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3. Perfecting the point&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you may have noticed, my point is still blunt! You don't need to sharpen that with the knife, as that's where the sanding pad comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwCAvm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwCAvm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold the pencil between your thumb and two fingers and roll it so that pencil rotates. You'll do this while rubbing the lead point along the sandpaper. Make steady, even strokes. Like before, &lt;strong&gt;only the pencil should move&lt;/strong&gt;, and not the sandpaper. As you roll the pencil, the goal is to get a full 360 degree rotation, or close, in one full stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this rotation is that it keeps the point centered in the core and keeps it conical. If you don't rotate enough, you may end up with more of a wedge or oblong shape. Those can be quite useful, if it's your goal, but generally you don't want those other shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also sharpen the point by sanding with your strokes following the length of the pencil, instead of perpendicular to the pencil. (I think of it as &amp;quot;up and down&amp;quot; instead of &amp;quot;side to side&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbgqmm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbgqmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lets you more easily match the point to the slope of the wood, if that's you're intent. You still need to rotate the pencil as you do this. I spent time making my slope nice, so I used a combination of strokes to get the point to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I made a nice, long point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSqZam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSqZam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you practice, you may end up making short or longer points, depending on your preference (or skill). The longer the point, the wider the strokes you can make, but also the more likely you are to have breaks while sharpening, using or storing your pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;4. Clean up&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your sandpaper pad may look pretty grim after this. But if you bang it on your table or inside your bin, a fair amount of dust will come off. You can use one sheet for a considerable number of pencils, so don't throw it away too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDhVam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDhVam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Before&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uX7SOm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uX7SOm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;After&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, &lt;strong&gt;before actually using the pencil, you need to clean it off&lt;/strong&gt;, too. I typically make a bunch of test strokes, and even rub just the wooden part on the paper. A lot of the dust from your core will laying on the surface, and if you don't wipe it off you may end up laying down some accidental, very dark lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a cloth for this, but I usually just use scratch paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUYKwm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUYKwm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The proper way, in general&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keys to a sharp pencil, without breakage, are generally the same whether you're using a knife or a hand sharpener:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a sharp blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the pencil, not the blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a handful of sharpeners just like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73RVjm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73RVjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They work great for me. I just keep it steady in my offhand, and turn the pencil with my other. The blades are replaceable, but I have so many sharpeners that I haven't had to do that, yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I only sharpen one set of by 9B - 9H range of pencils with a knife, and the rest get the hand sharpener treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I avoid electric sharpeners for anything but writing pencils. They violate one of my guidelines, because the blade moves and not the pencil, so I already distrust them. Something about the process seems to increase the chance that the lead cracks internally, and I just end up sharpening them over and over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also get gummed up by colored pencils. Some companies make electric sharpeners just for colored pencils, but I haven't tried them so I can't comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T15:06:17.560" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2016-05-18T16:47:54.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could punch holes through the leaves, and sew, using an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traditional_Chinese_bookbinding&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;asian-style bind&lt;/a&gt;, or use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alvenh.com/misc/projects/bookbinding/overcastsewing/step1.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;overcast sewing&lt;/a&gt; before binding. You will need an awl, or drill/drill press to punch holes through the paper before sewing, though, and of course, you're losing more of the edge of the paper than using folded signatures and the book won't open flat.  But you will have a proper sewn binding that doesn't rely on glue to keep the pages in, and will be more archival in quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T19:31:27.167" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T19:31:27.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2016-05-18T17:39:59.680" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To prevent (actually: to minimise) fraying, you can use &lt;strong&gt;zig zag scissors&lt;/strong&gt; known as pinking shears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CADkU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CADkU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;zig zag scissors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And you can use &lt;strong&gt;non-woven interfacing&lt;/strong&gt;. Make sure you choose a type that has a pre-glued side. You can iron it to fabric. It prevents fraying and deforming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T00:27:20.227" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T00:27:20.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2016-05-18T21:30:57.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at the images, you'll see the keys seem to float above the surface of the jacket a bit.  I don't see an evidence of the keys being sewn directly to the fabric with side-holes, although I agree it is a good approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest sewing regular buttons onto the fabric and then gluing the keys to the buttons.  Since they are both hard plastic, the glue bond can potentially be very strong, and the sewing is a little more straightforward since you can use familiar (or a least well documented) techniques for buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that sewing from the center helps give the keys their flexible, and random appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this is not the only jacket of its kind.  Another artist, &lt;a href=&quot;http://jessicalatorre.prosite.com/74057/657483/costume-design/keyboard-suit-jacket&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jessica Latorre&lt;/a&gt; also created a keyboard jacket (image not inserted because her site specifically asks not to reproduce).  The key density seems higher than the Julien David jacket, and the more rigid pattern looks like it could be glued or possible edge-sewn.  I'd lean towards glue because it's in the &quot;Prop Design&quot; section of her website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image searches show pictures of each suit mixed up and attributed to the wrong artists.  Julien David made the jacket with the white lapels, and Jessica Latorre's is all black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="256" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T21:30:57.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T21:40:11.400" Score="5" ViewCount="23291" Body="&lt;p&gt;For craft use I am looking for a cheap alternative to linseed oil medium to use with oil paints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only oil mediums I seem to find are all “artist grade” and hence expensive. Cooked “cheap” industrial linseed oil is not available where I live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, are there any cheap drying oil alternatives, preferably easy to find, like in a supermarket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T00:23:38.017" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T00:23:38.017" Title="Are there any cheap alternatives to linseed oil?" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T21:47:59.030" Score="4" ViewCount="8985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I admire the glass-like smoothness of some classical paints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know to polish the gesso until it's smooth like eggshells, not to leave brush marks by mixing stroke directions, and using thin paint and glazes extensively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other ways to achieve that glass effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T00:22:46.263" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T19:14:35.010" Title="How to achieve a smooth finish in oils?" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="474" CreationDate="2016-05-18T22:16:49.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really, really, don't care about lightfastness, paint permanence, and brittleness, then you have a few choices out of the local supermarket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safflower oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sunflower oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walnut oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these have either been used historically or are becoming more common in oil paints, but will have been refined much better than what you'll get in the store. Either way, I would experiment with your paints a bit with these and see what works best and then cook with what doesn't. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T22:16:49.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="478" CreationDate="2016-05-19T01:04:51.703" Score="8" ViewCount="25487" Body="&lt;p&gt;Supply stores sell drawing paper, sketching paper, and all sorts of bound pads and books of the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes this paper different than regular notebook or printer paper? How is it better suited for drawing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes the charcoal paper different than drawing paper, when both are used for drawing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T06:53:54.753" Title="What's the difference between drawing paper and regular paper?" Tags="|paper|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="477" CreationDate="2016-05-19T02:26:05.437" Score="16" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, printer paper is not designed to last long and is intended to hold ink rather than graphite, charcoal, paint, etc.  The same is more or less true of notebook paper.  Printer and notebook paper have very little &lt;strong&gt;tooth&lt;/strong&gt; (roughness); lack &lt;strong&gt;weight&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e., the sheets are thin); and have relatively high acid content, which means they will yellow and become brittle over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Different Kinds of Drawing Paper:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The main differences:  Tooth and Weight&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Weight:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Weight&amp;quot; is basically (as the term implies) a measure of how thick and heavy each sheet of paper is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thicker or heavier papers can handle more water or paint without buckling, curling, or falling apart. Traditionally, papers are measured by the weight in pounds of one ream, approximately 500 sheets. If a paper comes in different sizes, its weight will vary even though the thickness has not changed. Each paper type uses a certain size as its &amp;quot;standard.&amp;quot; A ream of standard 22&amp;quot; x 30&amp;quot; watercolor paper (500 sheets) would weigh 300 lbs. The very same thickness paper in a 40&amp;quot; x 60&amp;quot; sheet would have a weight of 1,114 lbs. for the ream of paper. Its weight changed due to the size of the sheets, not the paper's thickness, but the paper is still designated as 300-lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inconsistency of this traditional method has led to the use of metric measurements or grams per square meter or gsm. When paper is measured in gsm, its weight will not change with the size of the sheet. The same 22&amp;quot; x 30&amp;quot; sheet of watercolor paper described above would weigh 640gsm, meaning that a square meter of this paper would weigh 640 grams. Larger size sheets of that same paper, like a 40&amp;quot; x 60&amp;quot; size sheet, also would weigh 640gsm. While different sizes, the square meter remains constant, as does the thickness of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/productinfo/learn/paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dick Blick&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weights (relating to thickness) of paper are standardized and defined by the International Organization for Standardization and are often listed in grams per square meter (gsm), or in pounds, the standard of measurement more familiar to most artists in the U.S.  Following are some of the most common weights of paper found in sketchbooks and drawing pads (all measurements are approximate):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25 lb (approx 40 gsm):  tracing paper&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;30-35 lb (approx 45-50 gsm):  newsprint&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;50-60 lb (approx 75-90 gsm):  sketching or practice paper — thick enough to work on with pencils, charcoal, or pastels, but usually too thin for ink or most markers, which may bleed through.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;70-80 lb (approx 100-130 gsm): drawing paper suitable for finished artwork in most media.  Paper any lighter than 70lb will usually be thin enough to see through to drawings or materials underneath.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;90-110 lb (approx 180-260 gsm):  heavy-weight drawing paper, bristol, multi-media papers.  Weight in this range is similar to card stock or light poster board.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Heavier papers, up to 140 lb (approx 300 gsm) or more, are most often used for painting rather than drawing.  When found in sketchbooks, they are usually rougher papers intended as watercolor journals or to remove for painting on individual sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.museartanddesign.com/sketchbooks-surfaces-and-weights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Muse Art and Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sketch paper&lt;/strong&gt; is the thinnest, lightest paper, varying from 30 to 60 lbs. It isn't meant to be used for finished drawings, as most will discolor and degrade quickly. However, it's economical and perfect for short studies, thumbnails, compositional sketches, and working out ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watercolor or printmaking paper&lt;/strong&gt; has to be the thickest, heaviest paper because it must withstand the moisture from the water media applied to it. It usually weighs between 90 and 140 lbs. (The smoother, hot press watercolor papers can be great for drawing, also!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Graphite or charcoal&lt;/strong&gt; drawing paper doesn't need the durability of watercolor or printmaking paper, but is heavier than sketch paper. It usually weighs between 70 and 100 lbs. The weight you choose should depend on how you work with your medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thedrawingsource.com/drawing-paper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawing Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tooth:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Tooth&amp;quot; is a measure of how rough or smooth the paper's surface texture is.  The more tooth a paper has, the rougher it is, and the better it will take soft art media like charcoal and pastels.  The less tooth it has, the smoother it is, and the better it will be for fine detail work, harder graphite, pen and ink, etc.  Wet media (ink, watercolors, etc) will be more likely to bleed on a toothier paper;  dry media (charcoal, pastels, etc) will be more likely to slough off of a paper with less tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surfaces are described as having more or less “tooth,” or roughness in texture. The more toothy the paper, the rougher its surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rougher surfaces&lt;/strong&gt; are generally found more in thicker papers. &lt;em&gt;Thick, toothy surfaces hold on to more of the drawing or painting medium and are better for high contrast and lower detail works. Toothier papers are well suited to charcoal, crayon and pastels, ink washes and watercolor&lt;/em&gt;, or any work that utilizes the texture of the paper for aesthetic effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smoother surfaces&lt;/strong&gt; take up less media and are better suited to more detailed work. Very lightweight papers like tissue paper and lightweight sketch paper are usually smooth, but thicker papers like bristol and some painting paper are also smooth. &lt;em&gt;Smoother surfaces are ideal for graphite pencil, colored pencil, and ink pens&lt;/em&gt;. Smoother papers are also more likely to be bleed-proof, meaning that ink or color washes won’t spread and “feather” across the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.museartanddesign.com/sketchbooks-surfaces-and-weights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Muse Art and Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rough paper&lt;/strong&gt; is chosen for its definite texture. It is the natural result when a sheet is allowed to air dry without smoothing or pressing. Rough surface paper is a good choice for transparent watercolors used in a bold and immediate style, as it allows the pigment of color washes to settle into the hollows of the paper. Pastel artists also generally prefer a paper with &amp;quot;tooth&amp;quot; or texture to grab onto the pastel pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold Press paper&lt;/strong&gt;, which is the most popular and versatile, has a slight texture. Handmade papers achieve this by re-pressing a new wet sheet, which smoothes the surface to some degree. Machine-made papers get a similar effect by placing the wet sheets between cold metal rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not/Cold Press&lt;/strong&gt;: A &amp;quot;Not&amp;quot; sheet means it is &amp;quot;not hot press,&amp;quot; and the term is often used instead of cold press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hot Press paper&lt;/strong&gt; is very smooth. It is made by running a freshly formed sheet through heated metal rollers or plates. Much like a clothes iron, this smoothes out any texture left by the earlier stages and creates a flat, hard, featureless surface. A good choice for highly detailed illustrations, it is also used for printmaking, etching, drafting, sketching, and drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/productinfo/learn/paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dick Blick&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Secondary considerations:  Fiber and Sizing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Fiber (and acidity):&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper is made from a variety of plant sources. Whether the fibers come from cotton or other plants such as linen, flax, jute, hemp, bamboo, rice straw, or rattan, they all provide cellulose fibers or plant cells of varying dimensions. A sheet of paper is basically a thin layer of mingled cellulose fibers. Most commonly, three types of fibers are used to produce papers for drawing and painting: cotton, cellulose, and a combination of fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cotton papers&lt;/strong&gt;, made from the longest cotton fibers, are &lt;em&gt;generally considered the highest quality&lt;/em&gt;. They are referred to as being 100% cotton rag and &lt;em&gt;can handle heavy erasing and working without tearing or showing wear&lt;/em&gt;. High-quality 100% cotton paper can last more than 100 years. However, not all cotton papers are the same. Those made from the lesser-quality, shorter cotton fibers can get fuzzy with reworking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cellulose papers&lt;/strong&gt; are usually made of wood pulp and &lt;em&gt;naturally have an acid content that will destroy the paper over time. The more acidic a paper is, the shorter its life expectancy&lt;/em&gt;. Buffers can be added to make the paper neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/productinfo/learn/paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dick Blick&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many papers are acid-free. This designation means that the paper has a neutral pH (around 7). Acid-free papers should be selected for work intended to last for long periods of time because papers with higher acid content will deteriorate much faster. For most cellulose-based papers, acid-free also means that lignin and sulfur have been removed from the paper. These are the ingredients in wood-based papers that fade ink and turn paper yellow over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cotton and cotton-rag paper&lt;/strong&gt; do not contain cellulose and are naturally acid-free. Cotton-based papers are also stronger, often thicker, hold up better to a lot of erasing, and perform well for wet media such as watercolor or ink washes. Cotton is often blended with cellulose to add strength and durability to paper. Premium archival papers will often list a ratio of cotton and wood fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.museartanddesign.com/sketchbooks-paper-quality/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Muse Art and Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;pH neutral&lt;/strong&gt; means that the paper had a neutral pH (7) at the time that it was made, but may still contain ingredients that can become acidic over time (for example, the size used to seal the paper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** Acid-free** means that nothing acidic (and nothing that can become acidic) was introduced to the paper at any point in the paper-making process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers (such as Strathmore) take further precautions and make paper at a slightly basic pH of 7.2 to 7.5.  This provides an alkaline buffer to help counter anything acidic that it may come into contact with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thedrawingsource.com/drawing-paper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawing Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rate and severity of deterioration result from internal and external factors: most importantly, the composition of the paper and the conditions under which the paper is stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper is made of cellulose -- a repeating chain of glucose molecules -- derived from plant cell walls. One measure of paper quality is how long the cellulose chains, and subsequently the paper fibers, are: long-fibered paper is stronger, more flexible, and durable than short-fibered paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the presence of moisture, acids from the environment (e.g., air pollution, poor-quality enclosures), or from within the paper (e.g., from the raw materials, manufacturing process, deterioration products), repeatedly cut the glucose chains into shorter lengths. This acid hydrolysis reaction produces more acids, feeding further, continued degradation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical pulping produces paper with the shortest fiber length and does not remove lignin from the wood, which promotes acid hydrolysis. Newspapers are printed on mechanically pulped paper. Chemical pulping removes lignin and does not cut up the cellulose chains as thoroughly as mechanical pulping, yielding a comparatively stronger paper, but which is still not as durable as rag paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood pulp paper from before the 1980s also tends to be acidic from alum-rosin sizing (added to the paper to reduce absorbency and minimize bleeding of inks), which, in the presence of moisture, generates sulfuric acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acids also form in paper by the absorption of pollutants -- mainly sulfur and nitrogen oxides. Book leaves that are more brown and brittle along the edges than in the center clearly illustrate this absorption of pollutants from the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research by the Library of Congress has demonstrated that cellulose itself generates acids as it ages, including formic, acetic, lactic, and oxalic acids. Measurable quantities of these acids were observed to form under ambient conditions within weeks of the paper's manufacture. Moreover, paper does not readily release these acids due to strong intermolecular bonding. This explains why pH-neutral papers become increasingly acidic as they age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.loc.gov/preservation/care/deterioratebrochure.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;U.S. Library of Congress&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sizing/Absorbency:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Sizing&amp;quot; is an additive that makes the paper more resistant to moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Papers intended for wet media (paints or inks) are made with sizing, starch, or gelatin that is either included in the paper pulp during the paper-making process or is applied to the surface of the paper.  Sizing prevents liquid from absorbing too quickly into the paper, allowing some working time to lift, lighten, or move paints or inks by applying more water.  Sizing also helps protect the paper from getting too soggy, which can result in tearing and wrinkling.  Sizing can also help prevent finer ink or paint lines from spreading and feathering.  Sketchbooks intended for wet media should indicate on the cover that the paper is sized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.museartanddesign.com/sketchbooks-surfaces-and-weights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Muse Art and Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sizing is added to make the paper more water-resistant. It keeps the paper from absorbing too much moisture or pigment and helps to keep watercolors or inks brilliant. It also keeps lines and edges looking crisp. It is less important for papers used for dry media. Sizing also can factor into a paper's archival qualities - whether it will sustain or deteriorate over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Internal sizing&lt;/strong&gt; is added while the paper pulp is still in a liquid state and is maintained in the matter of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External, Surface or Tub sizing&lt;/strong&gt; is applied to the surface of the paper after the sheet is formed and dried. Some paper is both internally and surface-sized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/productinfo/learn/paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dick Blick&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other considerations:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Binding:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a matter of mere personal preference, sometimes a matter of necessity, &amp;quot;binding&amp;quot; refers to how - and whether - the sheets of paper are connected to one another:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hard-bound&lt;/strong&gt; sketchbooks have a hardcover and a sewn joint, just like a hard-bound book. These sketchbooks generally contain medium-weight paper, about 70 lb. Hard-bound sketchbooks are the toughest and sometimes the expensive. They take more wear and tear and generally survive longer than spiral or tape-bound books. Depending on the quality and method of binding, hard-bound sketchbooks often do not lay flat when opened all the way, so they can be difficult to use for larger drawings or for writing. Hard-bound sketchbooks are also less likely to have perforated pages, so they’re better thought of as real archival sketchbooks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spiral-bound&lt;/strong&gt; sketchbooks sometimes have hardcovers but their covers often consist of a hardback cover and a thick paper front. Because of this construction, spiral-bound books are a little less hardy than hard-bound sketchbooks. Spiral-bound sketchbooks open flat when put on a surface, so they can be good for ink and paint washes. Spiral-bound sketchbooks often have perforated pages, so pages are easy to remove and have a clean edge for presentation, duplication, mounting, or framing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tape-bound&lt;/strong&gt; sketchbooks generally have fewer pages than hard-bound and spiral-bound sketchbooks and do not have substantial covers. Tape-bound sketchbooks are not rugged, long-lasting sketchbooks. Sketchbooks bound in this manner come in a wide variety of surface types and weights, ranging from very thin tissue and tracing paper to heavy Bristol and vellum papers. Sometimes, tape-bound sketchbook pages are perforated, but often the pages are held in by a line of adhesive so it is not difficult to pull them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.museartanddesign.com/sketchbooks-binging-and-perforation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Muse Art and Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Single sheets&lt;/strong&gt; are a great way to experiment with a limited quantity of paper. They will often require stretching and taping to remain flat if wet media is being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blocks&lt;/strong&gt; are a stack of paper glued or bound together on all four sides and mounted on a backing board. A block keeps the paper stretched as you paint. Once the painting is dry, the sheet is removed by inserting a knife between the sheets and gently breaking the binding. Blocks are a good choice for working wet, outdoors or while traveling. The disadvantage is that you can only use one sheet at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/productinfo/learn/paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dick Blick&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Printer Paper:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to drawing paper, printer paper is cheaper, lower weight, more acidic, has less tooth, can't handle wet media, doesn't take much dry media, can't handle wet media, and is generally crappy in every important respect.  It works for doodling, but if you want to make something really beautiful and long-lived, you need a quality paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="239" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2021-06-03T06:53:54.753" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T06:53:54.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="479" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-19T02:58:50.933" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T02:58:50.933" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T02:58:50.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="480" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-19T02:58:50.933" Score="0" Body="The initial step of knitting is &quot;casting on&quot; stitches to a needle to begin a project." OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T11:34:52.383" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T11:34:52.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="422" CreationDate="2016-05-19T09:14:12.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of pros and cons to both methods of placing beads into your knitting, but when looking only at stability there is a difference between prestrung and placed beads. Having used both methods, I find the placed beads stay precisely where you put them whereas the prestrung beads can slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you place a bead you put it on precisely the stitch required. It can't shift anywhere because the two yarns going through it split and go in different directions. When you knit a prestrung bead into your work, it can travel along the yarn. Generally this means if, for example, you place the bead on the vertical leg of a stitch, it could slip up or down to rest on the horizontal bar of the stitch. This sometimes means it slips to the back of the work. The looser the gauge, the more this problem will occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T09:14:12.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2016-05-19T16:13:56.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use any kind of sharpener to get some of the outer wood off and expose the graphite.  I create the tip with sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="271" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T16:13:56.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="583" CreationDate="2016-05-19T18:03:33.307" Score="8" ViewCount="987" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Envelopener is a letter opener/paper cutter that's favored by origami folders because it cuts along folds precisely, there's no way you're gonna injure yourself, and it's highly portable. It's sold on multiple origami sites.  You can see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPxcJ99N1Xo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a video of it in action on Youtube&lt;/a&gt;. There's no brand name on it, and you can apparently &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nickrobinson.info/origami/wp_ori/the-origami-tool-you-can-use-and-yet-retain-your-credibility/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get these things branded yourself&lt;/a&gt;. It appears to be of European manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works like a dream.  &lt;em&gt;Most&lt;/em&gt; of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are the times it stubbornly sticks and won't cut at all. The cutter basically has a fixed exacto knife blade in it, and plastic guides that separate the layers of paper around the blade.  But sometimes, both layers can go through the same channel (so no cuts), or the paper binds up against something in the channels (so sticks).  Any ideas on fixes or techniques to get around these two issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T12:57:16.320" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T18:22:45.780" Title="How do I get my Envelopener to cut cleanly every time?" Tags="|origami|paper-cutter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2016-05-19T18:35:35.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used this tool, but I have used loose razor blades to cut paper.  The &quot;getting stuck&quot; phenomenon just seems to happen sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once grabbed a new blade that had a light coat of oil on it, and I had much better luck using it for a while.  Assuming the oil had something to do with it, I sprayed the blade with some silicon lubricant and that also seemed to work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A razor blade (and any blade, really) isn't totally smooth.  There are small nicks and defects, and these spots can grab individual paper fibers which can accumulate and make &quot;sticking&quot; more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, two pieces of advice:  Keep the blade clean by blowing it off every so often, and try to lubricate the blade.  Putting oil on a paper towel and running it through the device could work, or a spray lubricant that will mostly evaporate.  The trick will be getting just enough oil so there's no excess to stain your paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="256" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T19:10:17.700" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T19:10:17.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-19T18:56:49.597" Score="7" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are drawing you inevitably make mistakes. Erasing therefore is a large part of drawing. Not just for mistakes either. They can aid in shading and detail work, like hair, and other fine details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Erasers are obviously important. What kinds are out there when it comes to pencil drawing? I see many of similar colours, styles and hardness. What characteristics make them unique and, at a broad level, what are they designed to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T18:47:57.610" Title="What are the different kinds of erasers used in graphite drawing?" Tags="|drawing|erasers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="485" CreationDate="2016-05-19T18:56:49.597" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there are different manufacturers and styles there is finite number of basic modern erasers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pencil End or Rubber&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a commonly found eraser outside the drawing community. Usually pink in colour and rough in texture (due to the abrasive). This is the same eraser type that would be found on pencils with erasers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These remove graphite by shredding themselves over the paper leaving bits behind. If used incorrectly they can damage your drawing surface by tearing the paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also black and white erasers of similar firmness, but erase slightly more like the vinyl/polymer erasers. They are still abrasive, but less prone to tearing or wearing away your paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YLJs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YLJs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.heartclasses.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;heartclass.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Gum&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually large an brown in appearance. Can also be blue or transparent. They are generally softer to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will fall apart or crumble, in larger bits than other erasers that function this way, as they are used. This is by design and why most are larger, compared to other typical erasers. The bits help pull and hold the graphite. Because of how they function and the fact they are softer allows them to be used more easily over large areas and don't generally damage the paper. This also means they have a shorter life span. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Ou1a.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Ou1a.png&quot; alt=&quot;ArtGum eraser&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0006ZELR2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Vinyl / White Plastic&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are white and the usually the toughest of the erasers discussed here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are adept are removing a greater portion of the pencil and getting you back to paper. Graphite will stick to the eraser portion so one needs to be careful as you can accidentally transfer pencil to another spot on the page. There rigid shape allow you to cut them to remove used portions if you wanted or to create shapes and contours for more specialized removal. They come in multiple colors, but their function is identical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAdP0.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAdP0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vinyl Eraser&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNTeK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNTeK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artstuff.net/Staedtler-Mars-White-Vinyl-Eraser_p_1295.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;artstuff.net&lt;/a&gt; and currys.com&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Kneaded&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all artists will have a kneaded eraser in their arsenal. They are very soft, mold-able and usually grey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are designed to conform to most any shape for detailed adjustment and a ergonomic hold if need be. They actually lift the graphite from the page to the eraser. Once that part of the eraser is not working as efficiently you would fold it back into the eraser to expose more unused surface. The picture below shows a new eraser to formed and then a used form (which is darker from graphite). There is next to no risk to the drawing surface when using these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YsdLP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YsdLP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kneaded eraser&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://helloartsy.com/erasers-you-need/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;helloartsy.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Eraser Pencil and Stick&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are straight forward pencil with an eraser core. However the core can be like the pink eraser or a plastic vinyl one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they can be sharpened to a point and are for fine or detail work. A slightly larger variation of this is an eraser stick which has a long eraser core which gets pushed out in the same way you would a mechanical pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGRTi.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGRTi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Eraser Pencil&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gHPHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gHPHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Eraser Stick&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Images from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cultpens.com/i/q/FC05454/faber-castell-perfection-eraser-pencil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cultpens.com&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dick-blick.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dick-blick.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Electric&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are also simple to identify. Looking much like a hand held rotary tool with an eraser bit in the collar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While they might seem like a novelty they are good at what they do. Since the eraser is rotating during function is take very little pressure to get good results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hoDD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hoDD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Electric Eraser&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.currys.com/catalogpc.htm?Category=DERWENT_ELECTRIC_ERASER&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;currys.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, there are off course many different styles, manufactures and variations of what is pictured above but that should give you a good sense of what is out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T18:47:57.610" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T18:47:57.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2016-05-19T19:09:00.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used this tool either but there are a couple of conclusions that should be easy to draw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool is a fairly cheap one (in price not necessarily quality) so it would not be a stretch to think low quality steel or other metals might have been used. I would expect this to wear out and be more susceptible to damage then something like a craft knife. Both of which could contribute to a poor cut. This is more of a concern long term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;both layers can go through the same channel (so no cuts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible how you prep the paper before the cut would play a role in this. No hard creases will help the cutter get a grip as well as stop the paper from trying to part around the blade (which you might be experiencing). Another reason is that hard crease can cause the paper to weaken and throw off fuzz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or the paper binds up against something in the channels (so sticks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pulling the paper though you want to keep it as taut as possible. You will notice in the video you linked the fingers are holding the paper while the cutting pulls in the opposite direction. While that is not the only way this can be done the point is still the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when not cutting you can easily get debris in here. Regardless where  this is stored is a small space that can be a haven for dust and other particles that might be there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep it clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the cutter periodically&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use hard creases when cutting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the paper relatively taut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nickrobinson.info/origami/wp_ori/the-origami-tool-you-can-use-and-yet-retain-your-credibility/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A comment from a owner of such a tool:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They do have a tendency not to work every time, but a 90% success rate is good enough for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is not just you that has this experience&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T00:06:12.670" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T00:06:12.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="492" CreationDate="2016-05-19T19:29:07.873" Score="10" ViewCount="10869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue where the point and core of my colored pencils will fall out when using them or sharpening them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pieces can be up to an inch long. As they're primarily Prismacolors, they're expensive to wear through so quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are they breaking inside and falling out? I take care and &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/469/24&quot;&gt;sharpen with sharp blades&lt;/a&gt;.  They stay stored in their original hard box when not in use, and aren't used often. I feel like they've been cracked inside for awhile, and can't pinpoint how it happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even new ones I've bought individually have done it, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T07:33:07.217" LastActivityDate="2021-02-27T19:42:27.443" Title="What can I do to stop my colored pencils from falling apart?" Tags="|colored-pencils|pencil-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="494" CreationDate="2016-05-19T20:21:03.433" Score="5" ViewCount="6070" Body="&lt;p&gt;Floral Styrofoam comes in some shapes perfect for a craft I'm working on (colorful noodle dinosaurs), but I'm having a really difficult time getting anything to stick because it's so porous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of foam:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://factorydirectcraft.com/pimages/20050813095903-227599/small_styrofoam_cone_1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter link description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a type of paint or primer I can apply, first, so they decorative paint and glue stick to that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a certain glue I should use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T09:42:35.410" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T02:55:36.513" Title="Paint or glue porous floral Styrofoam?" Tags="|adhesives|paint|styrofoam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="497" CreationDate="2016-05-19T20:25:14.487" Score="9" ViewCount="6735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm gluing dyed pasta to paper with my son, but it's hard to get it to stick without an obscene amount of glue (Elmer's liquid) or decoupage (Mod Podge). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using cardstock paper, so the glue doesn't soak through or wrinkle. Should I use a different paper with more tooth? Noodles and paper are both fairly smooth. Is there an adhesive that works better for smooth on smooth? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm preferably looking for a kid-safe solution, but it's not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:03:57.217" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T21:53:58.580" Title="Gluing pasta to paper?" Tags="|paper|adhesives|pasta|kids-crafts|decoupage-glue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="499" CreationDate="2016-05-19T22:10:16.413" Score="9" ViewCount="2275" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter needs to dress as Anne Boleyn for a school history report. We're basing her costume off this portrait:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N7XO3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N7XO3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1534 portrait of Anne Boleyn&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We found a cheap long sleeve black shirt to modify with a lace/pearl edging to emulate Anne's dress. However, it's a v-neck shirt, deep enough that it is inappropriate to wear to school (or really anywhere) if I simply cut a rectangle down to that length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I modify the shirt to pull the point of the V higher and make a rectangle neck that matches the desired look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T19:37:22.443" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:37:22.443" Title="How can I convert a V-neck shirt to a square neck?" Tags="|sewing|costume-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2016-05-20T00:38:43.987" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prismacolor pencils are &lt;em&gt;notorious&lt;/em&gt; for lead breakage, but the creamy lay down keeps folks coming back. However, there are some things you can do to moderate the problem, in general (I'm going to answer a bit beyond the question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pencil Selection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pencils that tend to break more easily have off-center cores. If you're buying open stock, take a look at the bottom of the pencil and ensure that the core of it is in the center of the pencil body and not askew. None of mine are in this state, or I'd post a picture, but it's really obvious when you see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpening Technique&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little counter-intuitive, but I've found that instead of rotating the pencil in the sharpener, going the other way works better. In this scenario, hold your pencil in your &quot;off&quot; hand and then using your normal hand, rotate a very sharp sharpener around. This should be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; sharp, the wood should shave off in a long, continuous strip. If it doesn't then it's time to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, don't create a long point. Smaller amounts of exposed core tend to be less fragile and so don't break as often. Find a sharpener that lends itself to that or allows you to control the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fix It Up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prismas are wax based and can sometimes be fixed by heating the core to fuse it together again. Prismacolor doesn't recommend the microwave, rather a sunny window spot, but many use the microwave. Just keep it short, seconds at a time. After all, you're not looking to make it runny, just softened enough to fuse again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handle With Care&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the lead is fragile, avoiding drops and bangs is a must. The problem, of course, is that transportation to your supplier probably banged and bashed them around, causing the odd one to break even before you got it. To that end, I really recommend going with open stock since you can check the pencils there and, as I noted above, you can confirm that it's not askew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Change 'em Up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day, the price of Prisma feel is the weakness of the lead. If you're reaching the point that it's too much, then there are alternatives. Faber-Castell and Caran d'Ache make great pencils and they don't have the breakage issue. That's partly because they're vegetable oil based rather than wax, but also the lead is bonded to the wood, so even if there is a break inside, all is not lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any event, I have no familiarity with Caran d'Ache pencils to use, but the Faber-Castell Polychromos are really very good and also available in open stock. For me, open stock is a must. So, I have the full Polychromos set and a select bunch of Prismacolors (I generally prefer the white Prisma). They work together just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T00:38:43.987" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-20T02:11:06.490" Score="11" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a paper box of Prismacolor coloured pencils. I avoid using them since I think my drawing doesn't deserve them. The odd time I do use them and make mistakes I have a hard time erasing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prismacolor.com/faqs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;their FAQ&lt;/a&gt; I realize this is the nature of the beast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Why is it so hard to erase a Prismacolor colored pencil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; The Premier Soft Core and Premier Verithin® Colored Pencils are wax based pencils, thus they are not designed to be erased easily. If you’re looking for a medium that is designed to be erased, try out Col-Erase® Colored Pencils and erase away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What erasers or corrective tools can I use with wax coloured pencils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2021-10-28T11:49:19.893" Title="What eraser can I use with wax core coloured pencils" Tags="|drawing|colored-pencils|erasers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="489" CreationDate="2016-05-20T02:44:12.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to create the initial surface coat that can both smooth the rough surface of the Styrofoam and create a surface for further material adhesion. There are actually a number of safe and simple approaches that you can do which all have a similar outcome. First though you need to be aware of what you should not do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Be wary of products that will dissolve styrofoam&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of products that react to Styrofoam on a chemical level and cause it to melt. Many spray paints can do this as well and products that contain paint thinner. Many product labels will mention what materials they are and are not designed for. If you are not sure sticking with one of the suggestion below would be advised or at least test in a controlled and well ventilated environment if you must. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Initial coating options&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not need to be any sort of heavy coating but something that will try and provide a more uniform surface. In no particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mod Podge / decoupage&lt;/strong&gt;: Mod podge will work on its own with one or two layers built up. Some light sanding in between layers will help create a smoother surface. You don't need to use the glue alone. You can decoupage as well. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper mache&lt;/strong&gt;: Using the foam as a base paper mache onto it. I would likely do the entire object (all sides) as this might not adhere to the foam well or at least not long term. Doing all sides would give it no where to go. Not my first choice but this is a fun option for kids. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Styrofoam safe paints&lt;/strong&gt;: I don't have any specific suggestion here. You will have a hard time using a brush given the rough surface. You might need to use a cloth or something similar to work the paint into all the holes. Let it dry and repeat the process. It will get easier each time as it gets smoother. Water and Acrylic paints apparently work just fine here. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plaster of Paris / Geeso / Drywall compound&lt;/strong&gt;: These should be easy to apply to the surface. Don't put it on too think. Much like other approaches Let dry and sand. Drywall compound would be the last choice of these options as it would be brittle. Should still work though. I am putting Geeso in this list as I think it works almost the same although I have no experience with it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commercial Options&lt;/strong&gt;: There is a specific product called Foam Finish which is marketed for use with Styrofoam and related foam products. Likely there are similar products under different names.  Consulting a hobby store will help you get the variants. From the container you can see it would work well in this situation and you can read more at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=I2300465&amp;amp;pid=I2300464&amp;amp;img=l&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one supplier's site&lt;/a&gt;. :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Repairs dents &amp;amp; nicks in all foam including Depron EPP, EPO, Styrofoam &amp;amp; more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Helps make foam stronger with virtually no extra weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Creates a smooth surface for decals or paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In almost all cases the key is to keep your initial coats thin and build up to strength and uniformity you desire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these should get you a good working surface that you can paint whatever you want. You should be able to glue object as well to the new surface of your foam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T02:55:36.513" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T02:55:36.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="493" CreationDate="2016-05-20T03:12:06.477" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lifting something like the Prismacolor line with a hand-held eraser is going to require a lot of elbow grease. So, when the need arises, either for a misplaced line or trying to get an effect, then the best answer is an electric eraser. There are a few options out there, Sakura makes one that is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/sakura-cordless-electric-eraser/&quot;&gt;quite popular&lt;/a&gt; and I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/derwent-battery-operated-eraser/&quot;&gt;Derwent&lt;/a&gt; model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they perfect? No. Lighter colors lift easier, but the electric is going to do far better regardless. The only thing to bear in mind is that you're going to take some paper surface with you when you do this. For a small area, once, not a problem, but multiple times in the same place is probably unwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other option is to not erase at all. This means layers, layers, and more layers. Basically, the goal is to get enough color down that the mistake is, effectively, covered. How easy that is depends on the paper. Mine tends to be heavier and some colored pencil artists even go for watercolor paper. However, if your layers have gotten to the point when color no longer takes, a shot of workable fixative can give you back some tooth for adding more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T03:12:06.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2016-05-20T04:19:03.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might seem very odd... like very odd... but I tried doing the same thing, and how I got it to work was, glue and water solution.. like 80% glue and 20% water, then you apply it to one side of the pasta, you lay the paper flat onto the ground/table and then leave it to dry, as I live in a fairly hot country so it dried up pretty fast, but as impatient as I am, I just blasted it with hair dryer and setting the max heat and low air force(as in more heat and less air) on my dryer, this dried up very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold the dryer directly on top of the paper, vertically, and keep it a little farther from the paper because if it is near the pasta goes flying !. hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="279" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T04:19:03.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2016-05-20T16:46:32.077" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yellow carpenters/wood glue or white craft glue should both work fine for kids projects. I found yellow glue to be a little stronger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is important to give the glue time to cure / dry. Following the instructions on the bottle would be important to ensure you are using the glue properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When gluing macaroni make sure the entire surface, where the noodle is contacting the paper, is also covered in glue for best adhesion (No exposed ends). You don't want to hide the glue. A good dollop of glue that also surrounds the noodle works best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it's hard to get it to stick without an obscene amount of glue or decoupage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am actually not sure why you had issues. That being said I don't know what you consider obscene and what glues you used and your specific paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forward&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not a comprehensive experiment as I was testing with products and materials that I had available. I do think between the two of these you should have a good basis for choice though. My breakage tests also are slightly flawed as I don't have the tools to measure pressure exerted nor the ability to make each break with the exact same circumstances. There are other glues that I could have used, however, given my findings, I think the issues would have been the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glues not tested&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are things that I could not test with and choose not use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think a glue stick or glue dots would be good for this. Hot glue gun could work and even double sided tape. In the case of the latter you might have an aesthetics issue. Gorilla glue or PVA's would also work. Gorilla Glue is an expands while it dries, which I know from experience, so it might not be what you want to use here as it might warp the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Test materials and setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested with 3 different paper stocks. Canvas paper, thin cardstock and printer paper. For glues I used carpenters glue (Yellow) and white craft glue. These glues can be considered kid safe and non-toxic. Consult product labels to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used brand-less macaroni that I purchased specifically to do macaroni art. The glue was applied with different consistencies to see if the amount of glue was important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each piece of paper I logically divided it into 8 parts. Each glue was given an indicator box and 3 spots where the glue was applied lightly, heavy and an in-between consistency. The white glue had nozzle so I was able to apply it easily. My yellow glue nozzle broke ages ago so I used a craft stick to apply it. The two below pictures show how much of each glue was applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBjk3.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBjk3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Glue samples&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then proceeded to add one piece of macaroni to each glue site. I made sure that the macaroni was lying flat to the paper to increase the gluing surface area. This picture shows the tests in a completed a drying state. The glue is still wet as this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIs0Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIs0Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Glue samples&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drying times for each glue was 30-35 minutes. The carpenters glue recommended 24 to allow a full cure. I waited 12 hours before I tested and I think that is fair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strength test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mentioned earlier that this needs to be taken with a grain of salt so I don't suggest using this as a thesis source. This also doesn't cover long term durability&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. Here is a picture of the macaronis after I put in effort to remove them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lEYwr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lEYwr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Noodle massacre&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From left to right: printer paper, light cardstock, canvas paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the noodles I used my thumb and pushed from the side of the noodles. There were some that I could not remove like that an had to grab from the end. If the end was not glue I was able to grab under it and pull. If the end were completely glued I would not have been able to do that and it should have been harder to pull off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Findings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the yellow caprenters glue to be better than the white craft glue but not by much. In all cases the glue held and the &lt;em&gt;paper&lt;/em&gt; failed. As you can see in some pictures the noodles actually broke. I found the canvas paper to hold onto the noodles better. Likely that is because it was thicker and had a textured surface. The printer paper failed easier. In the printer paper's defense the glue still help to the paper rather well. Still, it was the weakest as I expected it to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glues warped the printer paper significantly and the cardstock somewhat. While I do notice that the other side of the canvas was wet the overall shape was not change i.e. it remained flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short if I was to choose, based on best results, my option would be yellow glue with the canvas paper. I would use enough glue to cover the entire noodle and have enough to sightly pool around it (My heavy option pictured above). The cardstock I used was perfectly fine though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: I do have a tangential case I can refer to for this though. 3 years previous to this post I made a anniversary gift for my wife that was macaroni art. I used the exact same macaroni (from the same box) and yellow carpenters glue. This was applied to a small section of wood. My wife displays this in our living room as she thinks its funny. After 3 years none of the pieces have fallen off (This has not been in direct sunlight the entire time). A couple noodles shattered from a fall a while back but the macaroni portion that was glued did not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T16:46:32.077" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="502" CreationDate="2016-05-20T21:39:03.050" Score="7" ViewCount="5192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to attach some plastic beads (&quot;pearls&quot;) to a satin headband. What will work for this -- hot glue? fabric glue? some other adhesive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T12:42:53.917" Title="What glues can attach plastic to satin?" Tags="|adhesives|costume-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2016-05-20T22:08:05.353" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you ignore the depth of the V in your v-neck shirt and cut the square where you want it to be (allowing for seams, obviously). Then, using the cut-out material, you can use it as a modesty panel to fill in the space where the tip of the V is to make a full square neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do with this notch is up to you. You can try to make it blend in by stitching it flat or you can use some of your embellishments to make it an accent to the center of the square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final result would be something similar to the neckline here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV5L9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV5L9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;square neck blouse with v-neck accent&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, I'm guessing the V left over is going to be shallower than this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious benefit here is that you don't have to muck with how the shirt fits. It's not been recut. All you've changed is the neckline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T22:13:08.337" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T22:13:08.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="505" CreationDate="2016-05-21T02:12:24.740" Score="8" ViewCount="3210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that the standard craft brushes, which you can buy cheaply for school supplies or children, are rather terrible for advanced art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are much more expensive brushes, but I don't know where to begin evaluating them outside of the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the different materials they use, and what benefits and issues do these materials have when it comes to painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T17:20:21.703" Title="What are the different type of paint brush bristles?" Tags="|painting|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="500" CreationDate="2016-05-21T07:44:27.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally soft brushes have been quirrel (targeted at children/schools) and sable. For watercolor-like techniques squirrel is terrible as it does not retain its form when wet, unlike sable, which forms a nice point and remains more or less straight. The main disadvantage of sable is its price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even cheap modern synthetic soft brushes are much better than squirrel and the best are very good. Also, they are usually much cheaper than sable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a recommendation I will say avoid squirrel (these days often seen in multi-brush packs originating in the far east). Most synthetic brushes (even &amp;quot;craft&amp;quot; brushes) are satisfactory. The retailer might let you try dipping the brush in water to make sure it springs back into shape after painting some of the water onto a surface, and that it points properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For oil-like techniques bristle has been the traditional material for stiff brushes, and as far as I am aware still is. For soft brushes I would suggest log handles synthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T17:20:21.703" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T17:20:21.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2016-05-21T12:42:53.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crystalandglassbeads.com/blog/2012/the-ultimate-adhesive-guide-for-swarovski-flat-backs-and-fabric.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a good article&lt;/a&gt; which considers various different glues and compares their performances when used to glue small crystals to various different types of material. It appears to be an updated version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crystalandglassbeads.com/blog/2012/swarovski-crystals-flatbacks-glue.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this slightly older article&lt;/a&gt; from the same website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither article mentions satin specifically, but the later one considers some similar materials, and the author does mention satin in response to queries in the comments sections of both articles (Ctrl+F &quot;satin&quot; on either page if you want to check). The advice given there is that either &lt;strong&gt;Gemtac&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;E6000&lt;/strong&gt; would be the best glue to use for satin. E6000 is stronger and better, but has very strong fumes, while Gemtac is non-toxic and thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/az66s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/az66s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this is the kind of answer you're looking for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T12:42:53.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="503" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-21T12:59:57.167" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T12:59:57.167" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T12:59:57.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="504" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-21T12:59:57.167" Score="0" Body="Paper-cutters are any tools specifically designed to cut paper, such as guillotine cutters, sliding trimmers, or handheld devices with razors." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T00:14:28.167" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T00:14:28.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="500" CreationDate="2016-05-21T16:14:13.693" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Natural vs synthetic&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a bit of research into this and found that there are two main kinds of paintbrush bristles: &lt;strong&gt;natural&lt;/strong&gt; (usually made from animal hair) and &lt;strong&gt;synthetic&lt;/strong&gt; (usually made from some combination of nylon and polyester). Each of these has its own advantages and disadvantages according to what kind of paint you're using. The TL;DR is that &lt;strong&gt;natural bristles are better for oil-based paint while synthetic bristles are better for water-based or latex paint&lt;/strong&gt;. For more details, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to/a7647/which-paintbrush-should-you-use/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;. As a bonus, it also gives some information on the &lt;em&gt;shape&lt;/em&gt; as well as the material of paintbrush bristles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bristle Shape:&lt;/strong&gt; Most paintbrushes available today are square-cut brushes. They're perfect for holding and laying paint onto virtually any surface. However, square-cut brushes don't provide as much control when painting into corners, up to adjacent surfaces, or along narrow edges or surfaces. For more precise control, use a sash brush, which has its bristles cut at a slight angle. Sash brushes are particularly well-suited for cutting in around the perimeter of a room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bristle Tips:&lt;/strong&gt; Better quality brushes have bristles with flagged, or split, ends. Flagged bristles hold more paint and spread paint more smoothly. Some brushes, especially sash brushes, have tipped ends, which should not be confused with flagged ends. Tipped brushes come to a point; they're not cut flat and straight, as is a standard brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Professional painters favor tipped brushes because they provide greater control and allow you to apply paint more precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;More details on different types&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/info/brushhair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This list&lt;/a&gt; goes into more detail on the usages of synthetic and various types of natural bristles, although it doesn't distinguish between different types of synthetic material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Badger&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For blending oil paint on canvas, Badger Hair is an age-old tradtion. It comes from various parts of the world and is more readily available than most animal hair, although the quality varies greatly. Badger hair is thickest at the point, and relatively thin at the root, so it has a distinctive &quot;bushy&quot; appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: oil&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Camel Hair&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Camel Hair does not come from camels at all. It is found in watercolor and lettering brushes and usually is made of squirrel, goat, ox, pony or a blend of several hairs, depending on the desired softness and intended cost of the brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: lettering, tempera, watercolor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hog Bristle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hog Bristle is obtained from hogs in several parts of the world, the most sought after coming from China. Bristle is unlike any other natural filler in that it forms a V-shaped split or &quot;flag&quot; at the tip and tends to have a natural curve. A brush with &quot;interlocked&quot; bristles, with the curves formed inward to the ferrule, has a natural resistance to fraying and spreads medium to thick paints smoothly and evenly. A selection of pure hog bristle brushes is recommended for oil and acrylic painting, and is a far less expensive alternative to good-quality softer hairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: acrylic, oil&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kevrin/Mongoose Hair&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Kevrin/Mongoose Hair is strong, resilient, and makes a good long-wearing, medium to professional quality brush for oil and acrylic painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: acrylic, oil&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kolinsky Sable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Kolinsky Sable is not really from a sable at all, but comes from the tail of a species of mink that is a member of the weasel family found in Siberia and northeastern China. It is generally conceded to be the best material for oil and watercolor brushes due to its strength, spring and ability to retain its shape (&quot;snap&quot;). It holds a very fine point or edge. This is considered a professional grade of hair, and if properly cared for, Kolinsky will last for many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA, oil, watercolor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ox Hair&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The best quality comes from the ears of cattle or oxen. The Ox Hair has a very strong body with silken texture, is very resilient, has good &quot;snap&quot;, but lacks a fine tip. Therefore, it is most useful in medium gradewash brushes, or flat shaped brushes. Frequently, ox hair is blended with other natural hair to increase the resiliency of a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: lettering, watercolor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pony Hair&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pony Hair is soft but strong, from mature animals at least 2 years of age. It is primarily used for scholastic grade brushes, but often blended with other hairs for inexpensive watercolor and touch-up brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: acrylic, scholastic, tempera, watercolor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Red Sable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Red Sable is obtained from any member of the weasel family with &quot;red&quot; hair, not at all from the animal known as the sable. It is found in a variety of brush styles for many varied mediums, with quality and characteristics varying greatly. A good quality pure Red Sable is a good alternative to the more expensive Kolinsky, with similar performance and durability. Often, weasel hair is blended with ox hair to make a more economical brush, but the fine point is sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: oil, watercolor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sabeline&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sabeline is actually select, light-colored ox hair dyed to resembled red sable. Lettering and watercolor brushes often use Sabeline mixed with Sable to lower the cost of a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: lettering, watercolor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Squirrel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gray Squirrel (Talayoutky), most highly in demand for lettering brushes and quills, is native to Russia and nearly always fell in short supply. Brown squirrel (Kazan) is more readily available, and is used mainly for medium quality and scholastic watercolor brushes. A very fine, thin hair, taken from squirrel tails, it points as well as Kolinsky, but has very little &quot;snap&quot; because the hair is not very resilient. It works best with liquid paints and inks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: lettering, watercolor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synthetic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Synthetics are man-made of either nylon or polyester filaments. They can be tapered, tipped, flagged, abraded or etched to increase color carrying ability. Often, synthetic filaments are dyed and baked to make them softer and more absorbent. The common name for this filament is &quot;Taklon&quot;. Advantages of synthetic brushes are: 1) They are less prone to damage from solvents, insects or paints. 2) They are easier to keep clean than animal hair brushes because the filaments don't have animal scale structures to trap paint. 3) They are less prone to breakage and are durable on many different surfaces. 4) They are better suited for painting with acrylics because a synthetic filament will withstand the caustic nature of acrylic paints with less damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIA: all&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gordonbrush.com/material_descriptions.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this list&lt;/a&gt; goes into even greater detail on a huge variety of types of bristle, falling into four main families: &lt;strong&gt;animal hair&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;vegetable fibre&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;synthetic&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;wire brush&lt;/strong&gt;. Within each of these families, several different materials are described and compared. It's too long to copy it all here, but should be useful as further reading if the above isn't detailed enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T11:40:21.817" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T11:40:21.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T16:44:34.240" Score="10" ViewCount="1843" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the famous spice tours on Zanzibar, the locals make various nice presents (e.g. hats, frogs, ties, and handbags) by palm weaving. Since there are so many different plants on a spice farm, I don’t remember what kind of palm they use for palm weaving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leads me to my questions: What kind of palm leaves are originally used for palm weaving? What substitute material (that is easily available in Central Europe) can be used instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user234" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T12:14:43.433" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T00:54:06.150" Title="What kind of palm leaves or other material can be used for palm weaving?" Tags="|material-selection|weaving|plants|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T17:25:02.093" Score="6" ViewCount="1525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have small, square, plastic keychains that I've mounted tiny, cross-stitched pieces to. I want to seal them with something that will both keep the stitching from falling off and also keep it free from dirt etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally use something like Mod Podge for this, but it takes forever to dry, and this is how they currently turn out: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oI4Xr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oI4Xr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not very tidy, and it ends up bumpy and bubbly and doesn't always dry clear. Is there a better way to seal these, or a different method I should be using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keychains are actually meant to hold photos - so they have the square part in the picture and then another clear plastic square that is meant to be placed over a photo to hold it in (I assume with some glue). I take out those squares, and put the construction paper/cross stitch in. There's a little bit of a lip around the edge of the keychain, but the cross stitch ends up sitting higher than this lip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user23" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T00:05:36.277" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T00:05:36.277" Title="How can I seal cross-stitched keychains?" Tags="|cross-stitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="506" CreationDate="2016-05-21T18:21:02.130" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various kinds of material can be used for this, including &lt;strong&gt;palm&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;banana&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;coconut&lt;/strong&gt; leaves. In Zanzibar specifically, according to the website &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zanzibartribalart.com/AboutZuluBaskets.htm&quot;&gt;Zanzibar Tribal Art&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;grass&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;ilala palm&lt;/strong&gt; are used in their weaving:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The products of grass and ilala palm weaving (such things as sleeping mats) and basketry are associated with the widest possible range of activities throughout a Zulu’s lifetime, touching virtually every domestic, social, and religious function.  These baskets are evidence of the expertise of these artisans and their ingenuity for using indigenous plants.  Traditionally Zulu women weave the African Zulu baskets using age-old, time-honored methods that are passed on from mother to child.  The patterns, each with their own meaning, vary from decorative bands to intricate triangles, diamonds, zig-zags, and checkerboard motifs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how easy such materials would be to find in Central Europe, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.italiansrus.com/palms/palmpatterns.htm&quot;&gt;apparently&lt;/a&gt; it's a strong tradition in Italy, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.folladorprosecco.de/italian-traditions/&quot;&gt;where&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All over Italy you will find decorative palms that have been exchanged as gifts, hung above doors or been placed in homes for good fortune. The art of palm weaving itself involves twisting the palm leaves into elaborate decorative designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, it's a Catholic custom, and done in Catholic communities of various countries including Germany and Poland. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://amandarosehelen.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/palm-weaving.html&quot;&gt;this blogger&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keeping braided palms around the house&lt;/strong&gt; is part of this Catholic culture, and I continue to practice it just as my parents and grandparents did. When I was younger, I tended to associate this tradition with yet another oddly rural thing my family still observed, but in reality it is not so much rural as it &lt;strong&gt;is a German and Polish Catholic tradition&lt;/strong&gt;, which makes sense why my family did it. Sadly, it is starting to become a lost art. That is the thing with traditions; they are only continued if they are passed down to the next generation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks as though palm leaves suitable for weaving should be reasonably easy to acquire in various European countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T18:21:02.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2016-05-21T19:15:00.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to experiment on my behalf my suggestion would be to use 2 part epoxy resin. It is self leveling, and dries hard, clear, and smooth (if done well). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people use resin for larger projects so instead of buying large containers of the stuff for small projects like this you might be able to get away with the smaller ones that you would find in dollar stores and hobby shops. The are advertised as a repairing glue. Small container with 2 tubes that keep the resin and hardener separate. A single plunger extrudes both at the same time. You would have to glue down the stitch to the frame separately in case it tried to escape as it dried (Most recommend 24-48 hours)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do try this make sure you mix the compound &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you apply it to the final product i.e don't dispense right into the frame using the plunger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only potential issues I see here is from the height of the recess in the keychain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There's a little bit of a lip around the edge of the keychain, but the cross stitch ends up sitting higher than this lip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might not be an issue. If done well and if the height difference is not too large, the resin can raise over a little without going over the edge. (This is called surface tension. It is what liquids do when you fill a cup too high). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could consider replacing the construction paper with something else like paint or marker. The paper likely does a better job of covering the back of the cross stitch, though. You might fare better with a lightweight card stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this applies to the think Mod Podge as it is setting but you could try to remove bubbles with a little non-direct heat like that from a hair dryer or heat gun used at a distance. Another simple trick that would be easier is to exhale (Not blow) over. These work for removing bubble for curing resin. Would not be surprised if they apply here as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T04:29:59.290" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T04:29:59.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="407" CreationDate="2016-05-21T19:58:20.290" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need is &lt;strong&gt;exterior masonry paint&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which specific kind of exterior masonry paint may depend on what sort of stone you're using. &lt;a href=&quot;https://decoratingadvice.co.uk/paint/exterior-masonry-paints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; from a decorating advice site tells you which kind of paint to use in which context. It's written from the point of view of painting walls of a building, but some of it may still be useful to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, mineral-based or lime-based paint should fit your criterion of being eco-friendly, and &lt;strong&gt;limewash&lt;/strong&gt; looks like the best choice for your situation: it's simple to make, relatively cheap, looks natural, and is eco-friendly. The following quoted text taken from the above link even provides you with possibilities for where to buy it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mineral Based Exterior Paints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put simply,  mineral paints are made with a silicate binder which reacts with the surface of the wall to form a long-lasting bond, unlike traditional paints which simply form a skin. They are naturally alkaline, so inhibit mould growth and carbonation; mineral paints also have the added advantage of being eco-friendly too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The disadvantage is that they require more thorough preparation, special primers and are, initially, much more expensive – although the increased performance should pay back over the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are a few specialist manufacturers of mineral based paints – the main two being &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keimpaints.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keim&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beeck.com/en/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beeck&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each have their own detailed specifications for different kinds of wall surface and these must be followed to the letter in order to enjoy the maximum performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lime Rendered Walls&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For old buildings with a lime based render or lime based pointing a traditional Limewash is ideal. Limewash is simply a paint made from lime powder and water together with a colourant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The main advantages of limewash are they bind to the surface very well and are totally breathable – another benefit is that they are relatively inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Care needs to be taken with application and sometimes additional binders need to be added to aid adhesion.The finished result can be very striking though – looking much more natural than a traditional paint finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Limewash paints are available from a number of sources including &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecosorganicpaints.co.uk/store/limewash-paint-uk/prod_108.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ecos&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lime.org.uk/products/wall-paints/limewash/ty-mawr-limewash/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ty-Mawr&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.littlegreene.com/paint/finish/limewash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Little Greene&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.farrow-ball.com/pws/client/images/content/advicesheets/UK_Limewash.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Farrow &amp;amp; Ball&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ECO Paints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Technically, an ECO paint is simply a paint which has a very low or zero volume of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volatile_organic_compound&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Volatile Organic Compounds&lt;/a&gt;. While some ECO paints are obviously superior to others there isn’t any case for suggesting that an ECO paint will perform any better or worse than any other form of exterior paint – it will simply be a matter of personal choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It’s worth noting, however, that mineral and lime based finishes, mentioned above, are by their very nature eco-friendly – so would make a good choice if you wanted to be as environmentally friendly as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;I also found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artline.co.nz/our-process/repaintprintable/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;detailed instructions&lt;/a&gt; on how to repaint a gravestone. They recommend using oil-based paint, assuming a granite headstone. If you're thinking more along the lines of smaller stones or pebbles, then &lt;a href=&quot;https://feltmagnet.com/crafts/PAINTING-AND-DRAWING-ON-STONES&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; recommends using acrylic paint, with a sealer on top at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T04:59:14.250" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T04:59:14.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T00:43:51.417" Score="0" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to look up what these are, to no avail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TDMf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TDMf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fuzz balls&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: this was the closest thing I could find&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are balls of wool, cut into small pieces, with a rubber band stuck in the middle holding it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I could describe them as is &quot;fuzz ball&quot;, but that's too general. I'm trying to create one. I need to search a tutorial for it but that is difficult when I am not sure what this is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="199" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T04:13:27.120" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T04:19:36.547" Title="What are these balls of wool bound together with a rubber band?" Tags="|fiber-crafts|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2016-05-23T13:15:53.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="511" CreationDate="2016-05-22T05:28:47.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are just pom poms on elastic  bands. Those particular ones appear to be made from rabbit fur. That is, according to the less that useful description given from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://detail.1688.com/offer/42835438463.html?spm=a261b.2187593.1998088710.155.4hFbIe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;site where this image came from&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Korea cute fashion real rabbit fur ball hair ring hair rope single ball wholesale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt; Page appears to be in Chinese Simplified and that is what I got from Google Translate&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones pictured are used as decoration or as an accessory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coincidentally we had another user ask about how to make those recently. Have a look at the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/454/how-to-make-a-pom-pom&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and you should get an idea of what to do. The only thing that is different is the presence of the elastic band. If you do want that it would just be a matter of attaching that into the pom pom as it is being created. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T04:19:36.547" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="163" CreationDate="2016-05-22T15:07:42.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This answer is partly based on product information from &lt;em&gt;Faber-Castell;&lt;/em&gt; thus, it may not be without bias.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood-cased pencil was invented following the discovery of a large graphite deposit in Borrowdale, England in 1564. The substance was so soft and brittle that it required a holder. (Originally, the grey metallic-sheened substance was thought to be a form of lead ore. Hence, the words for ‘pencil’ in several languages literally mean ‘lead pen’. It was not until 1789 that the chemist Carl Wilhelm Scheele proved that graphite and lead sulfide were two different minerals, and the geologist Abraham Gottlob Werner coined the name graphite, which stems from ‘gráphein’, meaning ‘to write’ or ‘to draw’ in Greek.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the supply of natural graphite from Borrowdale ran short, the graphite was thinned down with other materials. In 1794, Nicholas-Jaques Conté and Joseph Hardtmuth independently discovered almost at the same time that by mixing graphite with clay it was possible to produce leads with different degrees of hardness, which would preserve the graphite deposits and also accommodate a variety of applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graphite-clay mixing process was improved by Lothar von Faber in 1839. It was at that time that the hardness grade scale was established. Today, the scale encompasses 17 grades of hardness: 8B–B, HB, F, H–7H. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Ullmann’s &lt;em&gt;Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry,&lt;/em&gt; the clay content varies from 15 % in the softest lead to ca. 60 % in the hardest. A mixture of about 2 parts of graphite and 1 part of clay gives the usual HB or 2 1/2 degrees of hardness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following image is adapted from product information for the &lt;em&gt;Castell 9000,&lt;/em&gt; which is available in 16 degrees of hardness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Wx2P.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Wx2P.png&quot; alt=&quot;degrees of hardness&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same scale of hardness is used in ISO standards (for example for the determination of film hardness of paints by pencil test; in this test method, calibrated pencils of known hardness are pushed over the film). The hardness scale in use in the United States employs only numbers. The most important grades in the two scales approximately have the following relationship:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3B – 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2B – 1 1/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B – 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HB – 2 1/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;F – 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;H – 3 1/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2H – 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3H – 4 1/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4H – 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user234" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T15:07:42.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="514" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-22T18:12:48.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yoshizawa-Randlett notation was developed by Akira Yoshizawa in the 1950s to record origami model steps, and was further refined by Samual Randlett and Robert Harbin.  The development and standardization of this notation led to an explosion of models of increasing complexity, since retaining and communicating a design no longer relied solely on the folder's memory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main notation uses dashed lines to represent valley folds, and dashed-and-dotted lines to represent mountain folds. Thick lines represent paper edges; thin lines represent creases, and dotted lines represent hidden layers. Various arrow types indicate folds, turning the paper over, repeating steps, sinking, rotating the paper, and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more detailed information, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yoshizawa%E2%80%93Randlett_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Wikipedia entry on Yoshizawa-Randlett notation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:59:40.843" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:59:40.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="515" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-22T18:12:48.060" Score="0" Body="For questions about origami diagrams that use the Yoshizawa-Randlett notation, the standard origami notation for folding and handling paper." OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T15:39:51.853" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T15:39:51.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="516" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-22T18:58:32.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use this tag for any questions relating directly to charcoal, e.g. charcoal pencils (in which case, also use the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pencils&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pencils&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pencils&lt;/a&gt; tag) or powdered, compressed, willow, or vine charcoal sticks. Often used together with the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drawing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drawing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drawing&lt;/a&gt; tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T03:17:34.573" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T03:17:34.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="517" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-22T18:58:32.810" Score="0" Body="For questions about arts and crafts specifically related to charcoal, most commonly its use in drawing implements." OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T03:17:38.917" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T03:17:38.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="518" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:00:16.430" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:00:16.430" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:00:16.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="519" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:00:16.430" Score="0" Body="For general questions about wire, or when the type of wire material isn't known. Also use specific tags if the type of metal is known, such as [aluminum] or [steel]. For electrical wiring, also tag with [electronics]." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T18:58:10.330" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:58:10.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="520" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:02:41.507" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:02:41.507" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:02:41.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="521" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:02:41.507" Score="0" Body="Creating three-dimensional visual pieces with a variety of media, commonly clays and metals. Use specific tags for the media or methods, if known, such as polymer-clay or carving." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:13:27.507" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:13:27.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="522" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:05:52.240" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:05:52.240" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:05:52.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="523" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:05:52.240" Score="0" Body="A type of glue primarily used for paper crafts that acts as a glue, sealant and a finish. Commonly known brands are Mod Podge and DecoArt Decoupage Glue." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:14:20.590" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:14:20.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="524" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:08:14.427" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:08:14.427" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:08:14.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="525" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:08:14.427" Score="0" Body="A high-temperature oven used to dry, harden and glaze clay and ceramics. They can also be used in smelting and brickworks. " OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:13:44.197" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:13:44.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="526" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:10:02.077" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T19:10:02.077" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T19:10:02.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="527" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:10:02.077" Score="0" Body="Working and shaping metals with hand tools or machines to create sculptures, jewelry, functional pieces and more." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:13:54.337" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:13:54.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="557" CreationDate="2016-05-22T20:17:42.960" Score="7" ViewCount="11240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some paper just yellows over time, especially if left out somewhere where it sees sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acid-free paper is a partial solution, but not terribly budget-friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else I can do in order to ensure the longevity of my work? I'd be using a variety of pencils and pastels, including charcoal. Is there something I can apply to the paper before or after drawing on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T17:35:12.013" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T20:23:40.857" Title="How can I prevent my drawings and paper from yellowing over time?" Tags="|paper|drawing|preservation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T22:29:59.863" Score="4" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing colors as black and white values is an essential skill in classical paintings. Yet art manuals and instructors usually only recommend to squint and, at most, to buy a grey scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lame!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in the form of a Q&amp;amp;A, where art meets craft, though I would appreciate any other contributions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how do you easily see grey values in color?&#xA;Or train yourself to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T12:23:19.233" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T19:21:44.123" Title="How to best judge grey values for paintings?" Tags="|oil-paint|painting|color|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2016-05-22T22:33:04.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some of my solutions &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Red filter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything seen though red is unsaturated; this is the easiest way particularly to see the scene to paint as a whole. Some DIY glasses have red lenses, some photo filters and gels too, cellophane plastic, plexiglass, tinted glass, or red light bulbs to light the scene. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest and easiest way by far is to buy a sheet of red-colored acetate plastic. You can just hold it to your face or fashion a simple visor &#xA;with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grey scale&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical photo grey scales go from white to black, with indentures on top. If you need gradations you don’t need extremes, forget highlights and darkest shadows, if you use a typical grey scale you will end up with 2-3 gradations dominant in the painting. Moreover, the gradations are machine made and may not reflect the reality of the values you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way is to paint a grey-scale yourself with at lest 7 gradations that are needed. You can also paint several of them varying dark tones, light tones, and colors scales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel grey scale.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical grey scales are rectangular with indentation on top. That doesn’t really work because you see the values of all of the other colors above it. Visually, the values of colors change when seen next to each others. To get an accurate value of a specific part, that color must be seen independently from the other colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest and easiest way is to use an old camembert wheel box for the disk. You need a hole in the center, only big enough to see through. Divide the wheel into parts 8 or 12 quadrants and paint the scale on it. Also, you can paint the back of the disk mat black so you can see and judge the color from the other side without distractions or white reflections. You can glue the disk to a thin handle to easily vary the distance from you eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T22:45:09.927" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T22:45:09.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="500" CreationDate="2016-05-22T23:31:07.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap brushes mostly shed hair on your painting and lose shape and become useless very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is mostly due to cheap hair, bad assembly, poor glue. the other factors are  users' abuse and medium and cleaning agents effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good quality brush that is handled correctly, cleaned and stored properly lasts for life...for cheap bruses i have seen some, even some cheap red sables, disintegrate after a single use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until your skill level warants using $50 plus sable brushes, buy synthetics. Even synthetics have a greet range of quality and price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For good brushes generaly avoid cheap chinese hog, cheap poney and cheap synthetics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumbs, the &lt;strong&gt;price of a brush should be related to a tube of paints&lt;/strong&gt; you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance to get a genneral idea relatively in euros, £, or in $&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$1 kids paint, $1 poney brushes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$2-4 learner's paint, $ 2-4 bristle, craft grade or cheap synthetics &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$4-10 artist grade, $ 4-10 good synthetic and some hair range like kevrin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$10-50 great fine art paints, $10-50 top of the line brushes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you see supermarket brushes at $1 for 3 brushes pack, or $4 chinese hog bristles 12 set...run away and paint with your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said there are some exeption, some cheap synthetics can sometimes be quite good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T23:42:46.817" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T23:42:46.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="533" CreationDate="2016-05-22T23:40:11.500" Score="16" ViewCount="25520" Body="&lt;p&gt;When drawing pictures with a pencil, I often want to create a more or less solid darker colour in some region. It's easy to shade an area so that it appears a solid dark colour from a distance, e.g. by hatching or cross-hatching, but I'd like to be able to blur the lines in a hatched or cross-hatched area so that the darkness is uniform even when looking at the picture close up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I achieved this using a special eraser I had. As an eraser it was very bad, since instead of rubbing out pencil marks it blurred them and made them spread darkly across a bigger region. This, however, made it perfect for creating uniformly dark areas in pencil drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I don't have that eraser any more (or at least, I don't know where it is to lay my hands on it), I'd like to know a better method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After shading an area with pencil strokes, how can I blur these strokes together to get a uniformly dark region?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T17:00:46.563" LastActivityDate="2024-04-03T17:40:50.030" Title="How do I get a blur (blended) effect in pencil drawings?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|pencil-shading|blending|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="532" CreationDate="2016-05-23T00:02:18.037" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blurring you're talking about sounds like &lt;em&gt;blending&lt;/em&gt;, which is the technique of evening out or gradating values and colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fingers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the simplest way of blending your regions together, whether matching values or values you want to merge together, is by rubbing it with your finger tip! You'll want to make sure your fingertip is clean, and oil-free, so that you don't smudge it with something else. Then, you simply rub. The direction you rub can have an effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have two parallel lines and rub following their direction, you won't get much blending between them. Instead, you'll end up just blurring the lines, instead of having sharp edges. This technique is often used to blur the curved lines when shading spheres, on of the most common shading practice exercises for beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Blending at angles away from the lines will great a smudge of sorts that causes a gradation from the lines value to a light grey. The closer the lines, the less likely you'll run into greys. You can see this by just drawing a dark area on a blank page and smearing away, to see how your pencil and pencil pressure have affected it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need to avoid back-and-forth strokes if you want a gradation. Always start your stroke from the darkest value and move outward.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can also blend in circles or back and forth, which may be the most helpful for trying to get a single area to be one value that's smoothed out, so the strokes don't show.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there's also tools made specifically for this, called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tortillon&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tortillons&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stump_(drawing)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blending stumps&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're made of tightly-wound paper. Tortillons being less tight than stumps, likely hollow, and you can clearly see the layers of paper, like the tip of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_pencil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;grease pencil&lt;/a&gt;. Blending stumps are so tightly wound that the seem more like a solid chunk of the paper with a point sanded off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ML2V0m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ML2V0m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iDpUkm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iDpUkm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tortillon and stump&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Left: Pic courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;http://rapidfireart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rapidfireart.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Right: The top is the back end of the tortillon, where you you can see how it's layered and hollow. The back end of the stump is more stump!&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These give you much more precision over the blending. They come in many sizes, which makes them more adaptable than the five sizes of your fingers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A plus to these is that as they blend, they tend to pick up more of the graphite dust in their fibers, evenly spreading it around the area and getting dust off so you don't need to use a brush or air. Your finger will end up absorbing the graphite or charcoal, but will layer it and compress it from the pressure. These can lead to you smudging dark areas of light ones accidentally if you forget to clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that the tortillons don't really clean up, so if they get too much graphite built up, you'll only want to use them for matching values. To counter this, most tortillons you can purchase have the ability to peel away the outside layer. Failing that, you can use a sandpaper pad, similar to what you can use to sharpen a pencil, to rub off the rough edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, tortillons, both bought and homemade, tend to give a softer blend than stumps. I've made my own tortillons by wrapping up old drawing paper (possibly with a bad sketch on the inside) and taping the end seam. These homemade tortillons have given me the softest blends, as the dull point often frays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFcfum.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFcfum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;My homemade tortillon, not a weird cigarette. Notice the curved, feathery tip.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a comparison of the four tools I mentioned, using an HB pencil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gzqy6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gzqy6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first column is blending a solid area, mostly back and forth (not against the strokes, which would blend more evenly).&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stump and homemade tool hide the strokes the best, in this case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second column is a few tight lines, stroking along them. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Notice the finger smudged well outside it (oops!), and the others were more precise. However, the homemade one had much &quot;fuzzier&quot; edges, which can be nice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The last column is gradating out from dark.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you go down the column, you'll see each tool, in this case, was better and blending from the dark line, so there's not so much of a hard edge between the dark and light. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other thing to notice is that the strokes are almost invisible on the finger patch, and much less visible on the homemade stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't blend any two values together for this demo. You will probably not just lay down a single dark line and blend outward, like my last column. Instead, you'd create a gradation yourself by using pencil pressure and different hardness pencils, then blend those values together with your tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T19:37:45.120" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T19:37:45.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="534" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-23T02:08:35.920" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T02:08:35.920" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T02:08:35.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="535" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-23T02:08:35.920" Score="0" Body="Specifically for questions about crafts primarily involving ceramics." OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T03:36:45.513" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T03:36:45.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="536" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-23T02:11:15.250" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T02:11:15.250" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T02:11:15.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="537" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-23T02:11:15.250" Score="0" Body="For questions about canvas and crafts specifically involving canvas." OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T21:44:27.783" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T21:44:27.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="538" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-23T02:16:06.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt; should be used when asking general questions about the act or process of painting itself (verb form), to specify materials are going to be used for a painting project or existing painting, or when asking questions about an existing painting (noun form).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt; should also be used with specific media tags, if the question is about the process of painting with that medium. Just as you would use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drawing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drawing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drawing&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pencils&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pencils&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pencils&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drawing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drawing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drawing&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/charcoal&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;charcoal&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;charcoal&lt;/a&gt;, you can use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/oil-paint&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;oil-paint&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;oil-paint&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/watercoloring&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;watercoloring&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;watercoloring&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dye&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dye&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dye&lt;/a&gt; - Use this tag when your question is related to the colouring of fabrics, paper, or other media.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/oil-paint&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;oil-paint&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;oil-paint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/acrylic-paint&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;acrylic-paint&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;acrylic-paint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/watercoloring&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;watercoloring&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;watercoloring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T11:23:30.847" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T11:23:30.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="539" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-23T02:16:06.467" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used when asking general questions about the act or process of painting itself (verb form) - i.e. applying paints in a controlled manner, usually with brushes or similar tools - to specify materials that are going to be used for a painting project or existing painting, or when asking questions about an existing painting (noun form)." OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T15:33:45.420" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T15:33:45.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T04:11:20.390" Score="8" ViewCount="1987" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually something I have observed with my wife's pinatas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that as it dries it should shrink &lt;em&gt;a little&lt;/em&gt; but I have seen papier mache balloons shrink leaving a wrinkled mass. I have also, on separate projects, seen it split down the side in between putting down layers. In this case the balloon inside does not appear to be getting smaller but large.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing my wife's papier mache balloons to change size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Her process involves using long strips of newspaper. Near identical to the following picture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/utusLm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/utusLm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Initial layer on balloon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between layers she leaves the balloon alone and propped up in a bowl to keep it vertical. As it dries she will turn it upside down to allow the other side to dry as well. Not all of the pinatas have this issue. Just from time to time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T19:34:23.617" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T01:40:34.110" Title="Why is my papier mache balloon changing size between layers?" Tags="|papier-mache|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2016-05-23T04:11:20.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Temperature in the environment&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would answer both cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Balloon shrinking: causing the papier mache to wrinkle as the form it was set on changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Balloon expanding: causing the papier mache to expand and crack while setting as the balloon is getting larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important for the project to dry in the same environment (temperature) in which is was created. This might seem obvious but small changes can affect this. Time of day for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion and Contraction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If working indoors the sun might not be directly on the project initially. If left for many hours &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt;, layers may dried with heat from direct sunlight that could make the balloon inside expand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opposite could apply as well. If the project was in direct sunlight while the layer was being applied it could have then cooled while it was still setting. When the base you are forming your project on moved it will set in unexpected ways (turning into a raisin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The balloon shrinking is less of an issue after several layers. Having 2-3 already dried layers gives a good base so the balloon shrinking would be a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also could happen if you take the balloon outside for example to have it set faster. A change in the environment while the balloon is drying is likely causing this to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the project in the same place and avoid changes in temperature. This is more crucial for the first few layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wrinkled balloon can usually be ignored by adding more layers, assuming the project calls for it. As layers get added the imperfections are hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A busted seam (or join) can also be fixed by patching with more papier maché. In the case of the piñata, this might be less than ideal, as it introduces a weak point. Setting layers with the paper strips perpendicular to each other can help fix that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T15:48:37.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2078" CreationDate="2016-05-23T11:01:09.163" Score="12" ViewCount="122526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a collection of many small stones and shells of different shapes and sizes picked up from various beaches, and it'd be nice to glue some of them together to make some sort of arty model. But these are unusual materials and I'm not sure what type of glue would work best on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What sort of adhesive works best for sticking together stones and shells?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm implicitly assuming the same sort will work for both stones and shells, but if not, I'd be grateful for an answer covering both materials.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T13:17:19.907" Title="What kind of glue works for stones and shells?" Tags="|adhesives|stones|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T14:25:36.470" Score="7" ViewCount="24234" Body="&lt;p&gt;For several applications, I don’t like the cool look of modern bright white paper. For some valuable prints, I prefer natural white paper without optical brightening agents. In some cases, however, I also want the paper to look old. Therefore, I am looking for a technique to age paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper should look like a page in an old book, not just yellow like paper with optical brightening agents that was exposed to the sun. The result of artificial aging should resemble naturally aged paper. However, the “forged document” does not have to stand up to forensic analysis. Preferably, the process should not leave any residue that isn’t naturally found in old paper. Thus, I don’t want to simply stain or dye the paper (e.g. with coffee, tea, or brown watercolour). The use of volatile chemicals would be acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The artificial aging should not unnecessarily damage the paper. The paper should not become warped and wavy (cockled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The content of the paper is written or printed in black (calligraphy ink, woodcut, letterpress printing, or laser printing). Some fading or discoloration of the black content would be acceptable or could be even desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(Note that the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/528/234&quot;&gt;“How can I prevent my drawings and paper from yellowing over time?”&lt;/a&gt; is about the opposite situation.)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user234" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T04:16:47.333" Title="How can I artificially age paper without staining or dyeing?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="549" CreationDate="2016-05-23T17:27:34.810" Score="19" ViewCount="39641" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently at a party, I saw empty wine bottles that had the base cut off so it could be placed over a candle. It made an elegant and interesting centerpiece, and I have some very pretty wine bottles that I'd love to convert to candle covers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I cleanly and safely cut the base off a glass bottle? I'd like a reliable method so I don't risk destroying the bottles (I don't have many of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T13:28:13.807" Title="How do I cut the bottom off a glass wine bottle?" Tags="|glass|upcycling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="568" CreationDate="2016-05-23T17:31:45.147" Score="12" ViewCount="4476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pondering a project to make candle holders from wine bottles. I'd like to paint a &quot;stained glass&quot; style pattern on the outside, so it looks like a much more complex project than it actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What paint will provide color for the &quot;panes&quot;, but still be translucent? What paint should I use for the &quot;lead&quot; borders (not translucent)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T17:35:13.733" Title="What paint works for &quot;mock&quot; stained glass?" Tags="|paint|glass|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="553" CreationDate="2016-05-23T17:44:44.347" Score="12" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son wants to have a treasure hunt themed birthday party (we'll be geocaching at a local park). For the invitations, he wants pirate treasure maps to tell guests where to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be typing up the directions and information and map and printing multiple copies. What paper should I use (compatible with a printer or copier), and what dye could I apply (presumably after printing) to make these &quot;maps&quot; look aged, handled by many generations of pirates? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T20:04:28.587" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T12:05:02.410" Title="What material can I use to dye paper to look older?" Tags="|paper|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T17:45:59.017" Score="6" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last summer I made a pallet style table for a friend. I made my own custom chalk paint using drywall compound and one litre of white latex paint. I followed the instructions &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homehardware.ca/en/index/home-experts/bev-bell/all-projects/fall-projects/chalk-it-up.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mix 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup drywall compound into the paint. The amount of drywall compound depends on how thick you want the paint. &lt;strong&gt;Do not exceed 1/2 cup&lt;/strong&gt;. The first coat is normally straight paint with no drywall compound added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put emphasis on the portion that I paid attention to. I didn't add too much as I figured it would be too thick or clumpy so it would not apply well. I stirred it well enough that the drywall compound was mixed into the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/viaoC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/viaoC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the end result would be textured but it painted fairly flat. I then distressed it and it did turn out well but I feel the effort in making the paint didn't yield any results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it about chalk paint that makes it popular? Is there something I might have done wrong with my paint mixture that cause less than ideal results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="725" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T18:22:56.130" LastActivityDate="2017-08-30T07:31:25.797" Title="What are the strengths of chalk paint?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="544" CreationDate="2016-05-23T18:07:31.910" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few different ways to do this, but most of them involve extremes of temperature: first &lt;strong&gt;intense heat along the line where you want to cut the bottle&lt;/strong&gt;, and then &lt;strong&gt;submerging in cold water&lt;/strong&gt;, repeated several times if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;A Song of Water and Fire&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method assumes you have a tool with which to score the glass, for instance a glass drill bit or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_cutter&quot;&gt;glass cutter&lt;/a&gt;, both of which should be reasonably inexpensive to get hold of. First use this to mark the line along which you want to cut the bottle. Then &lt;strong&gt;apply heat to this line&lt;/strong&gt;; you can do this in a couple of different ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;by rotating the bottle slowly over an open flame, making sure the flame is directly under the score line so that it doesn't heat too broad an area of the bottle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;by pouring a thin stream of boiling water onto the score line from above, again trying not to let it cover too wide an area&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After heating the bottle up along the score line, &lt;strong&gt;dunk it in a pail of cold water&lt;/strong&gt; (which you should have prepared beforehand). The shock of passing from heat to cold should weaken the bottle and make it likely to crack along the existing score line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that the bottle won't break the first time you do this, but keep repeating the process multiple times (heat, cold water, heat, cold water) and eventually the bottle should snap in the right place.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;String and nail polish remover&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again the basic idea is to alternate extreme heat with extreme cold, but this time you don't need to have a scoring tool because you'll be using a piece of string. You also need something containing &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone&quot;&gt;acetone&lt;/a&gt;, the most commonly used example being nail polish remover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a piece of string, &lt;strong&gt;soak it in nail polish remover&lt;/strong&gt; (or anything else acetoney), and wrap it around the place where you want to cut the bottle. Then &lt;strong&gt;set the string on fire&lt;/strong&gt;, which will apply intense heat to the narrow area on the bottle around where the string is tied. (Obviously, you need to take care that the string doesn't slip to a different position on the bottle. Even more obviosuly, make sure you don't have any of the acetone on your fingers and that the bottle of nail polish remover is placed well away from the flame.) When the flame burns out or you feel enough heat has been applied, &lt;strong&gt;dunk the bottle in a pail of cold water&lt;/strong&gt; as before to provide the stress necessary to crack it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is unlikely to work the first time, but you can keep repeating the process, either re-soaking the string to light it again or replacing it by a new piece of string if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever method you use, the bottle may not snap completely cleanly, so you should use some sandpaper to smooth off the edge of the broken bottle before using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see pictures and videos of the process &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-cut-a-bottle-with-string-and-nail-polish-re/?ALLSTEPS&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Cut-a-Glass-Bottle&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I'll try to add some images and hopefully gifs to this answer later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;There's also an urban myth that you can cut glass underwater with just an ordinary pair of scissors. I'm not sure whether or not this is true, and I haven't gone to research it, simply because it wouldn't be relevant for your problem anyway. A rigid object in the shape of a hollow cylinder can't be cut with a pair of scissors whatever material it's made of; the underwater cutting, it true, would only work for flat panes of glass.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T00:12:51.500" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T00:12:51.500" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="544" CreationDate="2016-05-23T18:30:53.267" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certainly several methods to be found online however most of them can have mixed results where you edges are concerned. This can be done rather well with a scoring jig, regular glass cutter and water. Depending on how often you are going to be doing this will influence the tools and jig. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Scoring&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting glass, so that it breaks predictably, can be done well with a glass cutter, or similar tool, and the right pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The jig&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be able to move the bottle around and apply consistent pressure with the cutting tool. Again, you will find oodles of options for these jigs but a simple one involves some wood and casters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIH7km.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIH7km.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame needs a base with a tool rest and a back where the bottle bottom will rest. At least four casters will help the bottle rotate while you score the outside (I also saw two mounted rolling pins for this). The jig picture above has a dedicated adjustable cutter. This is helpful but not required. Using the side of the jig as a tool rest you can rotate the bottle with one hand while using the other to set the cutting pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commercial products&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several commercial products that can do this as well if you are more comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ji8qjm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ji8qjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small apparatus that you can buy&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In use it would look like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0awGPm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0awGPm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have glass cutting experience but have never used a product like that. Videos of them used look very promising though if you are willing to spend the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Break&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a good score line then it is just a matter of encouraging the glass to break. This is surprisingly easy with some boiling water and cold tap water. You basically need to rapidly change the temperature of the glass near the score. You don't need extreme temperature for this though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This likely has to be repeated a couple of times. Pour over boiling water slowly and rotate the bottle while pouring. After about 10 seconds of this you can take the bottle to the cold water from the tap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change in temperature should put enough stress on the bottle and it should fall apart. If you score line was good there is minimal clean up required and some light sanding would give you a smooth surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also give you both ends of the bottle in a usable state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T01:47:56.017" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T01:47:56.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="545" CreationDate="2016-05-23T18:34:04.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use glass paint, it is meant especially for glass.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could also experiment with acrylics, they come in different opacities. I've painted with acrylics on translucent plastic. I know it's not glass, but at least it holds, and when applied in a thin layer, it's even translucent.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here's the result I got:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m9QVt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m9QVt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;acrylic paint on plastic&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even though I didn't use translucent paint, some light can shine through (especially the sky and the windows).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T18:34:04.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="545" CreationDate="2016-05-23T19:05:00.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the sites I've found on the internet recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://decoart.com/glasspaint/glass-stains&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deco Art&lt;/a&gt; for buying glass-staining paint. They sell specialised paint for use on glass, both transparent and pearlescent, as well as an opaque variety to use for leading. Unfortunately their website (or at least the page I linked to, listing their products) doesn't give a great deal of detail on what kinds of paint these are or what's in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.everything-stained-glass.com/painting-glass.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; tells us more about the makeup of glass paint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What exactly &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; glass paint?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Often called enamels or vitreous enamels, they are a mixture of metallic oxide pigments, flux and ground glass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;They are used for surface decoration, and are fired on permanently in a kiln.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Their colour and opacity depends on the type of metal oxide used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also discuss the difference between opaque and transparent paint, but that's less relevant to you since you only want the transparent kind.&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;For the leading, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Came_glasswork#Lead&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;what's traditionally used&lt;/a&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;lead came&lt;/strong&gt;, thin soft metal strips which can be fixed onto the glass. You can find detailed instructions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.everything-stained-glass.com/stained-glass-making.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on how to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Came&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lead came&lt;/a&gt;. Alternatively, you can just use a different kind of paint, which is essentially glass-staining paint of the same kind as above except opaque and in a black or dark grey colour:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m1LgK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m1LgK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leading paint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T19:05:00.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="544" CreationDate="2016-05-23T21:09:02.720" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is yet another, more elegant solution, requiring no cutting tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Safety goggles or glasses. Protect your eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gather the following materials: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large metal bowl (common kitchen bowl)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass to Cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooking oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;piece of iron, to be held by tongs or pliers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighter, torch, or gas stove top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill the glass container up to the place that you want it cut. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set the glass container in the metal bowl, and fill the bowl up with water to match (or be just a smidge below) the level of water in the glass container.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pour oil into the water of the metal bowl. It will float on top, and there should be enough oil that the entire surface is covered.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Holding the piece of iron (or similar metal) with the pliers or tongs, heat it until red hot with a torch, lighter, or gas stove.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Holding the piece of iron (or similar metal) with the pliers or tongs, dip it (and keep holding it) into the oil floating in the metal bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voila. Glass cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to wear the goggles, and to keep the heat away from skin and flammables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/videos/comments/4e3olg/how_to_cut_a_glass_bottle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to cut a glass bottle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="308" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T13:28:13.807" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T13:28:13.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="546" CreationDate="2016-05-23T21:24:29.823" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: tea!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yup, that's right, good ole' Lipton (or whatever other type of black tea you happen to have on hand). Diluted coffee can also work, but will smell like, well, coffee-stained paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this shouldn't be used on inkjet printouts, as inkjet ink isn't waterproof. So I would suggest printing out the master map (in black and white) and heading out to your local office supply store to make copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After applying the tea, you can hang up the maps to dry. The paper will get crinkly, but that's actually a good thing for this application. If they get &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; crinkly, apply a cool iron (barely above its lowest setting) to smooth them back out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final step, go out to your garage (or a similar well-ventilated but sheltered spot) and use a candle or a lighter to burn away the edges of the maps. Keep a bucket of water handy, just in case. Don't go overboard - just do the corners and a little bit of a few edges. After blowing out the flames, break off most of the black stuff, leaving only a browned, ragged edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the results will not be archival: tea is acidic. But for a prop for a birthday party, that shouldn't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T21:24:29.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="546" CreationDate="2016-05-23T21:41:41.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dye (coffee, tea), acid (vinegar or lemon juice), and heat (oven baking) are the typical methods for 'aging' paper, but they're also much more liable to make the paper more brittle, so if you are going to go the DIY route, you may want to start with a lighter hand on a few trial sheets and see if you can still run them through the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to consider simply using a parchment-looking paper (most office supply stores have some form of this type of paper) or printing a parchment design on the paper instead, and simply cutting/burning a more ragged edge, if these maps have to stand up to kid-handling for a long period of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T21:41:41.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="559" CreationDate="2016-05-23T21:48:46.343" Score="5" ViewCount="2022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting into bookbinding, and I'd like to make my own sewn signatures, but I'm having problems with finding a good way to use my computer and printer to print out pages so that I can simply fold them in half and sew them into book signatures.  With double-sided printing, this often requires that pages be rotated between the front/back pages on the leaf, and that pages be printed in a stair-step order, so that 1 and 16 are side by side, 2 and 15, and so on and so on, if I'm making four-sheet signatures of 16 pages, folded and sewn down the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to get my computer/printer to print out pages for single-fold and double-fold signatures easily?  I have a laser printer that can handle duplex printing, and I do have the full Pro version of Acrobat, and an InDesign license, but it's an old one, and I don't have any imposition plug-ins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T02:12:52.237" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T11:05:42.903" Title="Is there an easy way to get my computer/printer to do booklet imposition?" Tags="|book-binding|printing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="558" CreationDate="2016-05-23T23:03:41.837" Score="9" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some old watercolor tubes that I inherited (a lot of family gives me art supplies, since I &quot;like art&quot;), and I have few sets of pan watercolors. My wife and I would like to try using them both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How different do they actually appear once on watercolor paper or canvas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, could I use these two types together on the same medium without there being a discernible difference in what type of watercolor they are? A difference along the lines of how you can tell chalk pastels from oil pastels, in that they have a different finish and texture on paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should we stick to one or the other for a given project, to have it look consistent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to clarify that I'm not asking about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://somecallmebeth.com/watercolor-tubes-vs-pans-which-are-better&quot;&gt;general differences&lt;/a&gt;, but they're actual end appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T01:18:00.707" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T00:31:38.297" Title="Is there a discernible difference between tube and pan watercolors?" Tags="|watercolor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="528" CreationDate="2016-05-24T01:19:22.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proper storage is your biggest ally in keeping paper from yellowing. Storing your artwork away from light, where it's cool and dry can drastically extend the life of even newsprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, if you can afford acid-free paper, other archival media (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://shellielewis.wordpress.com/2012/10/30/sharpie-markers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;don't draw with Sharpies&lt;/a&gt;), and storage (mylar envelopes, etc.), that would be the best.  But even just using a good zip-cover portfolio will do a lot to protect your artwork from the ravages of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T01:19:22.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="556" CreationDate="2016-05-24T01:53:29.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There can be more textural/quality difference between two different pigments of the same brand and type of watercolor than there is between, say, a tube of ultramarine blue vs. a pan of ultramarine blue from the same manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the types of watercolors really comes down to technique: the way you use tube colors is quite different from the way you use pan colors. But you can use this to your advantage. For example, you can use the pan colors for light washes, and use the more concentrated tube colors for adding outlines and details. To someone who doesn't know what kind of paint you used, it'll just look like you used more water in some parts and less water in other parts (and if you come right down to it, that'll be exactly what you did).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a huge disparity in quality between the types of paint - for example, if the pan colors are a dollar-store find meant for children, while the tubes are top-of-the-line artist's grade - that difference will probably be apparent in the finished product: the lower quality paints will look washed-out and chalky, and may be under-bound (so they come right off the paper when dry). But if both types are student-grade or better, then a competent artist will have no trouble creating a seamless piece of art using both types. It's just that most artists develop a preference for one over the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T01:53:29.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2016-05-24T02:10:43.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked into this years ago when I was printing out some books to test my leather binding skills. Back then you likely would have used dedicated software to perform this function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Software has changed since then and Adobe Reader DC does this as well as InDesign from what I gather. Depending on your Acrobat version it should be able to do this well. In short form: &lt;a href=&quot;https://helpx.adobe.com/acrobat/kb/print-booklets-acrobat-reader.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the instructions from Adobe Reader DC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the printer dialog select Booklet. This is found under Page Sizing and handling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ik6E1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ik6E1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the Booklet Subset pop-up menu select &quot;Both sides&quot; if you have duplex printer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leave the numbers in the Sheets From boxes as they are.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Select Auto-Rotate Pages to automatically rotate each page for the best fit in the printable area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ik6E1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;InDesign has instructions to do this as well&lt;/a&gt;. That link is for CS6 and other versions might have similar UI or more specific instructions sets. The Indesign wizard for booklets is more in depth than Reader DC's and covers topic like bleeding, page spacing, magins etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible solution is that many modern enterprise copy machines do this natively with their drivers. A place like a copy center likely would do it on the cheap. My old Ricoh at work does this function. It is about 6 years old now and was not top of the line at the time. This might be cheaper depending on your ink/toner costs and size of the book you are making&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T02:10:43.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T02:55:35.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends: are you sketching (with pencils, presumably), or are you painting with watercolors? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're sketching/drawing with pencils and other dry media, the sketching paper is probably to be preferred, because the vast majority of what is available as &quot;watercolor paper&quot; is cold-press, i.e. pebbly/rough surfaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're painting with watercolors, unless you're using a particularly dry technique, the sketch paper will probably simply fall apart on you. You need to use a paper that is designed to withstand watercolor techniques such as washes and blending, which pretty much means using the heaviest-weight watercolor paper you can afford, or using a lighter weight and investing in the equipment to stretch it as it dries. Either way, though, a paper that tears when wet will not cut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you're doing neither sketching nor watercolors, but, say, pen and ink drawings, neither sketch paper nor watercolor paper will be particularly satisfactory. Moral of the story: match the paper to the material/technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T02:55:35.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="569" CreationDate="2016-05-24T04:57:19.737" Score="10" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a direct animation project I want to do using super 8mm film, but I'm struggling to find the right kind of film. I am wondering if I can buy some super 8mm film, leave it in bleach so it removes the pictures -- will that leave it clear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done something similar to get blank film?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T12:51:15.020" LastActivityDate="2018-06-15T00:20:29.157" Title="To do direct animation on clear super 8 mm film, can i just bleach some old film?" Tags="|medium-selection|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T13:51:10.147" Score="15" ViewCount="4031" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my future projects involve folding A LOT of origami stars and crane eggs and turn it into a curtain. However, I want to insure that my hard (and very tedious) work do not go to waste by making it waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are images of both the origami star and cranes egg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13DWv.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13DWv.png&quot; alt=&quot;origami stars and cranes eggs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fold these you start with a thin piece of paper about 5/16 - 1/2 inch wide and about 8-11 inch long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Criteria (in order of importance):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproof (enough to withstand some splashes of rain if the window is ever left open accidentally)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;pliable&amp;quot; enough to fold but firm/thick enough to keep the shape of the origami&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come in long strips of about 5/16 - 1/2 inch wide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Able to come in multiple colors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively inexpensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some materials I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waxed paper(used in the kitchen) - These fit the waterproof and inexpensive criteria but needs to be manually trimmed to size. They also don't have enough weight to really hope the shape of the origami too well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Satin ribbon(used in gift wrapping) - These were beautiful and water proof but were too cloth-like and unable to hold the shape of the origami.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laminated strips of paper - These were annoying to prep and too rigid and thick to fold into the origami.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to compromise on one or two criteria if it at least greatly meets three of my criteria. Optimally hoping theres some magical material that perfectly meets my needs though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2021-06-13T02:24:50.633" Title="What are some waterproof materials that meet my criteria for folding origami stars and cranes eggs?" Tags="|origami|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2016-05-24T14:04:02.653" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that immediately came to mind for me was one of my favorite origami papers:  Foil Paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylsZpm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylsZpm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This paper has a metal foil on one side for a great shiny appearance, and has a paper backing to make it easier to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foil layer will provide a degree of water protection, but when making creases, you don't want to fold too &lt;em&gt;tightly&lt;/em&gt; to avoid breaking the foil layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something you will have to try on your own.  Some designs may end up with a lot of crevices that will still be able to hold water or allow water to get to the paper backing.  Even if water does get to the paper, the foil will help hold the shape as the paper dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need longer strips, you can also find gift-wrapping paper that has a foil layer.  It will perform similarly, but foil wrapping paper tends to have a thicker paper layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="256" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T14:04:02.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2016-05-24T14:19:10.247" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using &lt;strong&gt;palm fronds&lt;/strong&gt;, which can be woven to make beautiful stars and patterns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v8t9Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v8t9Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lyeuY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lyeuY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPTqEm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPTqEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more details about the craft of palm weaving, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/506/what-kind-of-palm-leaves-or-other-material-can-be-used-for-palm-weaving&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and the links given in its answer (disclaimer: answer posted by me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're obviously waterproof, since they come from plants which are naturally found in wet conditions. They come in long strips, which are (perhaps surprisingly) pliable enough to be folded into intricate shapes but also strong and tough enough to stay in shape. They should be inexpensive, at least if you're living in the right region (e.g. somewhere there's a strong Catholic community with a tradition of palm-weaving). The only criterion they don't meet is being able to come in multiple colours, but it might be possible to paint the palm fronds before folding them, if you can find a paint that works well on organic material like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T14:19:10.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="565" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-24T14:49:31.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use this tag for questions about glass-related arts and crafts, e.g. glass blowing or decorating or otherwise processing glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:13:48.510" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:13:48.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="566" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-24T14:49:31.780" Score="0" Body="For questions about arts and crafts specifically involving glass." OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T21:13:15.787" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:13:15.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2016-05-24T16:09:19.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get metal foils which are think enough to fold easily but stiff enough to hold their shape. For example copper foil around 0.05mm thick should work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach is to use whatever paper you want and then apply a waterproofing agent afterwards, for example shellac dissolved in alcohol will effectively seal porous materials without having much effect on their surface texture or you could try spray on lacquers or something like scotchguard or a silicone spray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:09:19.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="545" CreationDate="2016-05-24T16:09:22.483" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very simple approach are Window Colour types of paint (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michaels.com/gallery-glass-window-color-value-paint-set/10431855.html?productsource=PDPZ1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They basically produce removable decals. You can either work directly on the glass or - if bottle design and pattern permit - work comfortably on a flat surface, then transfer it to the bottle. (Or combine both and connect pre-made parts on the bottle with fresh paint.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lines / contours are done with opaque paints, they come in &quot;lead grey&quot; explicitly to mimick the lead of stained glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs no curing, but is admittedly less sturdy than classic glass paint. Otoh, I've had one design on a big jar for two decades now, including the occasional hand-washing. It has so solidified over the years that it is no longer removable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gW9tJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gW9tJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T16:31:53.187" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:31:53.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="561" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:16:39.467" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the gray and black light-sensitive chemicals are embedded on the film media and won't simply wash off or &amp;quot;turn clear&amp;quot; in bleach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are trying to do is known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drawn-on-film_animation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draw-on-film animation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, but I've also seen it referred to as cameraless animation, clear leader animation, marker animation, scratch film, and direct animation. I enjoyed trying this in my early experimental-film days. It was a lot of fun and you can create some interesting experimental media projects using various techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Draw-on-Film Animation Media&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically you start with &lt;strong&gt;clear film leader&lt;/strong&gt; (comes in acetate, polyester/mylar) where you essentially draw or paint your animation frame by frame. Folks also &lt;em&gt;scratch&lt;/em&gt; animated pieces into black exposed film and (optionally) add color later. Folks have even added hand-drawn animation &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;over&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; traditional black &amp;amp; white films, so if you have some footage available to you, that's an intriguing option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples and techniques to help get you started:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;YouTube (instructional video) : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cn5e2NvvELI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to do Animation by Drawing on Film&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exploriatium (Instructional PDF): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.exploratorium.edu/pie/downloads/Scratch_Film.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scract Film: Direct Animation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;YouTube (amazing example): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjDzdS-69w4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Process of making direct animation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Search: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=clear+acetate+leader&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clear Acetate Leader&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b39bE.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:16:02.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:31:58.590" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastics comes to mind. I use flexible circuit inside of keyboards to create some fun stuff. Some are made of polyester film. Plastics would come in a variety of colours so that should not be an issue. If you have the right thickness it will hold its form very well. Something like the start could be an issue as non complete creases might try to relax back to flat. A little applied heat could help mitigate that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be waterproof (some metal components of the circuit could rust. I am making a case for plastics more though). Easy to work by hand. Some force would be required for hard creases. Cheap for certain and you should be able to get all sorts of sizes. Cutting with a craft knife to get the shapes you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have known those crane eggs as Toshie's Jewel's. Those are based on the sonobe modules. Proof of my suggestion comes from a icosahedron I have made of 4 inch squared keyboard circuits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZS5e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZS5e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;icosahedron&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without some searching I am not sure how easy this would be to source outside of keyboards but I imagine it would not be too hard to just find plastic sheets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:31:58.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:55:30.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could fold them out of mylar or poly plastic sheets--there are a lot of packaged origami sheets that are made of plastics (holographic, transparent). You can laminate the plastic sheet to foil with spray adhesive if it doesn't hold shape or creases well enough for you on its own. Typical foil papers and home-made tissue foil probably won't do what you want, because the foil layer is typically very thin, and can break along the folds and expose the paper fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind losing edge definition, you could just fold out of paper, and then rubberize the pieces by dipping/spraying them with the rubber dip they make for coating tool handles (e.g., clear Plasti Dip). Or you could coat them with a clear spray acrylic, but that would probably only make them water-resistant, rather than waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T19:18:24.897" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T19:18:24.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2016-05-24T19:20:26.083" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waterproof paper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My company needed to travel with some spec sheets through a rain-forest area. We used waterproof laser printer paper so the sheets wouldn't be ruined by the rain. The product was called Revlar. Here is a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.relyco.com/products/durable-papers/revlar-waterproof-colored-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkJQF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkJQF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="326" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T19:31:58.310" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T19:31:58.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2016-05-24T19:58:05.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm with &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/542/what-kind-of-glue-works-for-stones-and-shells#comment766_542&quot;&gt;BrownRedHawk&lt;/a&gt; in that 2 part epoxy would be good for this job in a general sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It bonds really well to all sorts of materials however there are a number of prerequisites that would hinder good adhesion. You want maximum surface area contact. So the items will need to be cleaned of debris and loose components (like smaller rock fragments or shell shards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rocks are going to be contoured and shells have a variety of shapes. Not only that but 2 part epoxy (and many other glues known for strength) need time to cure or set in order to get a sustaining bond. Pressure is required and clamps or weight perform that duty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So make sure everything is clean and you have a way to put pressure on the glue joint so that it does not move while it is setting. I cannot offer specific advice beyond that since rocks and shells, like I said before, are full of variety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; to go on I would build up walls of books, or other items of similar height,  beside the object you're gluing so you would not have to try and balance weight on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always found hot glue, like the ones found in less specialized craft stores, to be temporary when crafting so I usually reserve it to kids crafts. That is my opinion however and I am sure there are varying degrees of quality when it comes to hot glues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T17:30:41.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="375" CreationDate="2016-05-24T21:22:52.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over at Lifehacks SE I was recently introduced to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sugru.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sugru&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, a play-dough-like silicone clay that sticks to virtually everything, hardens to a kind of rubber and is intended for small hacks, repairs and similar tasks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a whole collection of &lt;a href=&quot;https://sugru.com/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;search=Magnets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;projects with magnets&lt;/a&gt; on their website and your hearts would fit in nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:22:52.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2016-05-25T02:49:15.583" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of finding special paper, you could try a preservation or waterproofing spray that works on paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Krylon makes a product called Preserve It that does just that. Using it on your paper should be suitable for holding up against some rain. I found a mention that one user uses paper sticker labels on jars and washes the jars without issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this type of product, you could just spray your paper of choice beforehand and fold away. Then you don't need to worry about working with an unfamiliar material or a limited color/design selection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus, since you'll be putting your project in windows, a spray like this will help protect against UV rays, so your colors won't fade so quickly in the sunlight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also be able to reapply it as time goes on, at least to the surface of the finished product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T02:49:15.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2016-05-25T03:28:20.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/fabrics-fibers-nonwovens/protective-fabrics/brands/tyvek.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tyvek?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's mostly used to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/construction-materials/building-envelope-systems.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;weatherproof buildings&lt;/a&gt; and in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/personal-protective-equipment/chemical-protective-garments/brands/tyvek-protective-apparel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;protective clothes&lt;/a&gt;, but it's also available in sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's waterproof.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It feels just like paper (you can buy an envelope made of the stuff to try it out without buying a hundred yards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some suppliers will cut it for you to whatever width you'd like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a little expensive, &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.materialconcepts.com/products/4-x-200-yard-tyvek-10g.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;04&quot; x 200yd = $28.00&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not sold in color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="331" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T03:28:20.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2016-05-25T10:26:32.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way you're going to be able to &quot;forge a document&quot; to look natural, without leaving any artificial residue that isn't naturally found in old paper, is by letting it age naturally over time. You might be able to speed the process slightly with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;direct sunlight &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat (maybe by leaving it in a closed up car on the dash)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smoke&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;natural oils/dirt from being handled frequently without gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dust from places like attic storage &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small spots of water damage on a corner or two of the paper that one may get from basement storage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An old paper could get its look from being folded repeatedly, or having the edges of it rubbed on a rough surface. Older documents and paper also have a certain smell to them from coming into contact with all of these different environmental &quot;toxins&quot;, it's a musty sort of wet/moldy scent. I've seen a lot of paperwork age quite quickly from not being cared for or protected from the natural elements, in these ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T02:59:01.913" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T02:59:01.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="580" CreationDate="2016-05-25T13:20:52.180" Score="12" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sitting at work and my pant cuff started unraveling. Luckily I have a needle and thread in my purse, and I would like to repair this while I'm on a conference call with little else to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these are work pants, I don't want to see the hem after the repair is done. What sort of stitch am I trying to do, and is it something I can do by hand (at least sturdily enough to get through the day)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:07:27.030" Title="How can I hand-sew an &quot;invisible&quot; hem?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="579" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:05:59.823" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, what you need is called a &lt;strong&gt;blind stitch&lt;/strong&gt; to create a &lt;strong&gt;blind hem&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;hellip; and it can definitely be sewn by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, hemming pants while you are wearing them is a bit more difficult, and it will never look quite as &lt;em&gt;finished&lt;/em&gt; without an iron. But in an emergency, this will work great and the stitches will remain virtually unseen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by folding your cuff under to the correct length (wrong-side to wrong-side) and crease the fold as best you can with your fingers. Now grab the entire cuff (two layers of fabric) and fold the hem back to the right side so it leaves just a little bit of overhang (~1/4&quot; or so). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHWkB.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now sew along your hemline through the three layers so the stitches will catch only a very small piece on each side of the fold. Run the stitches around the entire circumference of the cuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNpTe.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfNRM.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you turn the hem right-side out, you will have a virtually invisible seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4uRd.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an emergency quick tack, you probably wont need so many stitches. The tighter stitches assure you won't catch a toe and rip the stitches out when you put the pants on, but in the situation you are describing, one stitch every inch or so (or even every few inches) should be enough to get you through the day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastEditorUserId="2" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T18:07:27.030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:07:27.030" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="579" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:07:19.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is always to have ideally all visible stitches at the back of the fabric. Common denominator is that in all single-layer parts of the seam only a few threads of the fabric are picked up or a short length of fabric is visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a single fold, the hem stich (German term &quot;Hexenstich&quot;, will research the English term) that stitches &lt;em&gt;against&lt;/em&gt; the general sewing direction works best, especially for a fast fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxlTF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxlTF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4993/sewing-lycra-blends/page/all&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right-handed instruction (reverse for left-handed users):  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix your thread on the left side of the un-unraveled seam (fold pointing towards you).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a small stitch &lt;em&gt;from right to left&lt;/em&gt; (=&quot;backwards&quot;) 1/4 to 1/2 inch diagonally to the right over the starting point. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the next backwards stitch diagonally down in the seam fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the thread tight, but not so tight that the fabric puckers or creates waves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every few stitches, secure the thread with a backstitch or two in the seam fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish as usual at the end of the unravelled piece, taking care to do the stitching only on the folded part of the fabric to remain invisible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a reasonably matching thread, you should get an invisible seam in quite short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T16:07:19.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="76" CreationDate="2016-05-25T17:51:11.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mod Podge does love to be streaky, but there are ways to lessen the extent of streakiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to use a wide foam brush when applying Mod Podge. Also, there are spray varieties of Mod Podge - the same ol' Mod Podge you know and love, but in an aerosol can like spray paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try applying multiple layers, with brush strokes in different directions between layers to try to fill in the gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; don't want streaks, you can sand between Mod Podge coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T17:51:11.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="483" CreationDate="2016-05-25T20:18:04.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use envelopeners a lot and indeed prefer them to any other means of cutting paper in almost all cases. Here are some tips from my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the cutting tool itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First of all, envelopeners are consumables: they will become blunt over time and there's not much you can do about it. Since they are cheap, simply replace them once in a while, especially if you start running into issues more often than you used to. Your mileage may vary depending on how often and what types of paper you cut, but mine last less than half a year.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blade which sits inside the tool is pressed between two halves of the plastic case. You can open the case by inserting a fingernail or a screwdriver blade into the narrow gap between the two halves. This will allow you to:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the blade from paper residue which gathers around it. Some envelopeners have a shaft which is supposed to allow the lint to escape from the blade but this does not always work perfectly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When closing the case, press the two pieces of the case firmly together. Sometimes the two halves become a little loose, causing the blade to not be mounted in a fully symmetric manner, which can cause both parts of the paper to move around a single side of blade instead of getting the blade exactly in between them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the cutting technique:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The envelope opener works best if the crease along which you cut is perpendicular to the paper edge. So, it's good for cutting squares but much worse for cutting hexagons. Personally, I use a Swiss Army knife or scissors for cutting hexagons since the envelopener doesn't handle them well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes you run into problems such as splitting the sheet into layers instead of cutting along the edge when trying to cut thick paper and the crease along which you cut is pressed too firmly (e.g. using a bone folder). So, sometimes it helps to either not make the crease that sharp, or to fold it in the reverse direction after folding, which also results in a somewhat less sharp fold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As mentioned above, an envelope opener consists of two plastics casing parts with the blade fixed in the middle right between them. These two halves of the case do not always perfectly fit together and there may be a small gap between them. Sometimes when you start cutting, you may press the paper too deep inside the casing, which causes the creased part of the paper to get stuck in this narrow gap. The solution is to check that you are not inserting the paper too deep.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these tips do not guarantee a 100% success rate, and I still occasionally make a bad cut, I think that I have become better at using the envelopener over time, so I hope they are helpful for others, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: I summarized these tips and some more in &lt;a href=&quot;http://michal.kosmulski.org/origami/envelopener-origami-usage.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an article on my homepage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastEditorUserId="344" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T18:22:45.780" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T18:22:45.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="198" CreationDate="2016-05-25T20:36:39.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there is no surefire way to know, some cues may indicate a simpler or a more complex model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's a box-pleating model or the CP is otherwise based around a grid, the size of the grid is usually correlated to the model's complexity. As a rule of thumb, something that uses a 16×16 grid will usually be simpler than something based around an 48×48 grid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The complexity of line intersections in the CP may indicate how many layers of paper there are in different parts of the model which in turn may indicate the complexity to fold. So intersections where a larger number of creases meet may indicate a more complex model. There will, of course be exceptions, as a simple mountain fold over multiple layers may have the same CP (except for fold orientation) as a complex closed sink along the same line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at the finished model. The amount of detail will often indicate the complexity. Bad surprises do happen, however.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look around forums for people writing about the model — either the folders themselves or people commenting their work will often mention the model's complexity, especially if it is high. Don't be afraid to ask, either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some experience by folding simple designs first. Even if you do not intend to fold tessellations in the future, they may be a good starting point into Crease Patterns since tessellations are often published in the form of CPs but at the same time the complexity of these CPs is usually much lower than that of animal model CPs. As you gain experience by folding simple Crease Patterns, you will become more proficient in judging the complexity of a CP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T20:36:39.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="390" CreationDate="2016-05-25T20:43:27.260" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from just carefully folding along the curve with your fingers, following techniques get used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Embossing the line with a pointed object or (better) a used-up ballpoint pen. Folding along such an embossed line results in a relatively smooth fold even if the curve is complex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For some models (mostly the organic-looking ones), wet folding can allow very smooth lines to be folded. This is sometimes combined with scoring the paper using your fingernails. Daniel Chang uses such a technique for folding his realistic human faces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Robert J. Lang famously uses a laser tool to score the crease pattern into the paper. I was able to fold from such paper in one of his workshops and the scored line looks a row of tiny perforations which weaken the paper and guide your hand when you fold along the line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some folders (e.g. Ekaterina Lukasheva) use digital plotter-like tools for embossing the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Machine-embossed lines (the latter two examples) are of course much more precise than those made by hand, but even a line manually scored using a ball point pen can be surprisingly precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T20:43:27.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="152" CreationDate="2016-05-25T21:04:55.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of water to use will very much depend on the kind of paper you use. Thick watercolor paper can absorb a lot of water and still stay intact while copy paper will disintegrate or at least tear with even a little moisture. This behavior depends on the paper's thickness, fibre length and sizing. Most wet folding tips found on the web (e.g. about using a spray bottle) apply to thicker paper and not to copy paper. Personally, I have never been able to wet fold copy paper and be happy about the result - it comes apart with even very little water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, first of all, I suggest you get some watercolor paper, 160-300 gsm for a start. Such papers are widely available in artist supply stores and not terribly expensive. Canson Mi-Teintes is a popular brand that comes in many colors but others should do as well. Then, retry your folding sequence and you should see a huge difference compared to copy paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact amount of water to use is unfortunately a matter of practice, but when I started wet folding, I always used too much rather than too little. It is easier to re-moisten paper than to dry it quickly, so better start with a smaller amount. You have to remoisten as you fold anyway. For most models, your paper should be damp but not soaking. While 160 or 300 gsm paper feels very stiff and almost not foldable at all when dry, with the right amount of water added it should feel leathery and be able to roll along a smooth curve easily. For some models, you only moisten a certain area of the paper at a time rather than the whole sheet. Also note that moisture takes some time to penetrate the paper, so you should wait a few seconds before applying moisture and checking if the paper has the right properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest is a matter of experience, so start with thicker paper and give it a try once more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T21:04:55.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2033" CreationDate="2016-05-25T22:55:00.673" Score="7" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the context, I am a self-taught painter. Consequently I often find myself mixing the same shade more than one time, painting different regions in no logical order etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what the golden progress rules ares, for instance, here is my guess at it, please help me improve it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash- diluted version of the the main color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill- the actual color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadows and Highlights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Details &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coloring aside, what is a good progression for painting, say a frog? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of the frog I painted, if I were to do it again, would I start from the limbs, then paint the body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnXqX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnXqX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Painting of frog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T07:27:29.290" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T07:27:29.290" Title="What is a good work-flow for a water-color painting?" Tags="|painting|watercolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T23:10:03.797" Score="12" ViewCount="1309" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, carbon pencils give a more &lt;em&gt;matte-like texture&lt;/em&gt; than graphite, and are a &lt;em&gt;drier media - similar to charcoal&lt;/em&gt;. Graphite can become reflective when photographed and scanned so I'm surprised that carbon pencils aren't more popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do carbon pencils need to be &lt;strong&gt;blended differently&lt;/strong&gt; for a smooth gradation of tone (like willow charcoal does), or is it more similar to graphite shading?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are carbon pencils &lt;strong&gt;messy, or can a precise line be achieved&lt;/strong&gt; with it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any &lt;strong&gt;disadvantages&lt;/strong&gt; to drawing with Carbon instead of Graphite?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not too much trouble, imagery for comparison is very welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-03-13T11:22:29.777" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T21:14:40.200" Title="How does shading &amp; blending with carbon pencils differ from graphite pencils?" Tags="|drawing|tool-selection|pencil-shading|blending|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="556" CreationDate="2016-05-26T00:31:38.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking of appearance only, pan colors tend to be more washed, so think runny light watercolor. Tubes tend to be more opaque, especially in cheap &quot;gouache&quot; type that is more closely related to egg tempera and acrylics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For quality aquarelles the differences vanish and become more a question of preference, portability, lightness of touch, working methods, brushes…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T00:31:38.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="591" CreationDate="2016-05-26T01:46:19.523" Score="8" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started making a functional fan, and I was wondering what kind of wood or bamboo (I prefer bamboo) I should use to make the body of the fan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kinda searched around using words like &quot;thin&quot;, but the kind of thin in woodworking is not really what I'm looking for. Here's the drawing I made for now (I'll probably redraw it), any feedback/ideas are appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13087289_1032293783490594_1394629441345763502_n.jpg?oh=9a36af39066fbd805db6e3e9bf1ab2f0&amp;amp;oe=579D1C0C&quot; alt=&quot;a fan&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T12:21:46.903" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T12:21:46.903" Title="What kind of bamboo should I use for making a Chinese fan?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="590" CreationDate="2016-05-26T03:44:36.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bamboogrove.com/bamboo-species.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bamboogrove.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are many different opinions on how many species of bamboo that there are. Some experts say there are approximately 1000 species of bamboo, while others say there are more than 1600 species on the planet growing naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be hard to make any specific recommendation on bamboo species as there are so many and I am not sure of your local. I have no real opinion on what is available in North America other than the kind that grows at my parents place, in Ontario, is weak and not good for much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see things like bamboo poles for fencing. You could split those with a knife fairly easily to get the lengthwise strips that you would need for this. Buying an entire fence seems excessive though. However for where and what it is used for it should be more than sufficient for what your are doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have better luck if this is a one off project by using something simpler like a bamboo placemat. You should be able to find one of these easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUVgfm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUVgfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take that apart and get (almost?) the lengths you need and there should be enough strength in there to get the job done. Also would not have to finish or cut it yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T03:44:36.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2016-05-26T13:17:30.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;On one hand there is the general quality of the paint such as the formulation of the base, density and particle size of the pigment as well as the consistency of quality from one batch to the next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the pigment itself. Traditional pigments can vary hugely in price depending on the source and although there are inexpensive synthetic equivalents of any colour you might want specific pigments may be desirable for more subtle and specific qualities of transparency and luminosity. One example is real ultramarine which is made from ground lapis lazuli and is very expensive indeed, the dry pigment powder almost seems to glow in daylight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More traditional pigments may also be desirable for reasons or historical authenticity or for reproducing specific techniques and effects. A lot of mineral pigments are metal oxides and may be toxic and so tend to be much more expensive to process and get hold of in the context of modern consumer safety regulations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice this often comes down to how the pigment itself reflects light. Many oil painting techniques rely on building up many semi-transparent layers to achieve sophisticated lighting effects, especially for things like skin tones and atmospheric effects which you obviously can't do if the paint has a lot of opaque filler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T17:35:00.220" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T17:35:00.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T13:47:05.227" Score="10" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roses are expensive. At least they are where I live. When I buy them I would like to try and keep them for longer. So I dry them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually just hang them flower down from a coat hanger and leave them for a couple of weeks. Sometimes they don't dry properly and smell or just fall apart at the lightest touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to my rose drying process to increase my success rate? I am sure the odd issue will happen but I am also sure there are things I can do to try and make the process better beyond &quot;just hang em'&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once they are dried properly is there anything else I can do to them to help them last longer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T14:20:06.237" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T21:47:04.077" Title="How can I dry my roses properly?" Tags="|flowers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T14:47:16.040" Score="27" ViewCount="6167" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass jars or bottles provide a great base material for many crafts, but the least expensive option (reusing food jars or wine bottles that would otherwise be discarded) require me to do some surface preparation. Specifically, I need to get the labels off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, I'm just peeling and scraping the labels with a crappy old kitchen knife. But many labels are &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; well attached and there is a lot of glue and paper left. It seems like I can spend hours scraping and still have a sticky, dull, unappealing surface, which doesn't lend itself well to (e.g.) &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/544/how-do-i-cut-the-bottom-off-a-glass-wine-bottle&quot;&gt;a clean, clear candle holder&lt;/a&gt;. Do I just need more elbow grease, or is there a method which helps remove labels and glue more quickly and cleanly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T21:15:39.070" Title="How do I remove labels from glass jars/bottles?" Tags="|glass|upcycling|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-26T15:13:24.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ours is the low-tech, slow method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An overnight soak in soapy water (start it out hot) usually helps the glue release pretty nicely and softens the paper so that it's easy to scrape. If the first soak doesn't do the job a second shorter soak without the paper usually will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use the plastic scraper (from our juicer) to scrape the surface of the bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ifs5x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ifs5x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Breville Juicer cleaner&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We actually use this thing more often than we use the juicer... it's that useful. The scrubby end is great for cleaning our garlic press and the scraping end is great for removing labels from bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, some bottles have the horridly thick blobby glue and we haven't found an efficient way to clean this off... but it's not as common for us as the thin layer of glues on glass bottles/jars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is also less effective for jars with plastic labels, which aren't susceptible to the soaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T15:13:24.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-26T17:38:18.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have particularly tough to remove labels, I have found Goo Gone to be very effective. Apply a bit to the label and let it sit for a couple of minutes. The label should come off really easily. Apply a little more to a paper towel and rub off the remaining adhesive left on the bottle. Then wash with hot water and soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00006IBNJ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goo Gone&lt;/a&gt; isn't very expensive and is really useful for cleaning other household messes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Di9iG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Di9iG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T17:38:18.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="611" CreationDate="2016-05-26T17:50:58.767" Score="11" ViewCount="7040" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a proper way to store tins of turpentine? I have attached a picture of the type of container my turpentine comes in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tXGAP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tXGAP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past where ever I store the container, turpentine smell would inevitably leak out and it's not really a pleasant smell. Initially I had stored it in the corner of my bedroom closet. I quickly moved it to a storage closet built into the stairwell. It's dark and cooler than room temperature usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also made the mistake of putting the tin of turpentine inside several plastic bags. This helped with the smell that leaked out but when I took the tin out of the plastic bags, the whole tin was sticky with what I assume is the dried turpentine gas trapped inside the plastic bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="33" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T19:29:53.590" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T00:20:49.247" Title="How do you properly store tins of turpentine?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-26T20:00:49.550" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting glasses or bottles in a dishwasher usually removes most labels. If it doesn't work the first time, simply repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="355" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T20:00:49.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-26T20:16:02.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I homebrew, so on occasion end up removing labels from previously-enjoyed beer bottles before reusing for bottling my own beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that soaking overnight in a water solution of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_percarbonate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sodium percarbonate&lt;/a&gt; releases the majority of labels/glues.  A couple of scoops (each about a cup) in a 5 gallon bucket of water seems to be a good dilution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodium percarbonate is the main active ingredient in many non-chlorine bleach laundry products such as OxyBoost and OxiClean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some of the more expensive brands advertised on TV tend to have scents added.  If you are using your de-labeled jars for food, I would recommend finding an off-brand equivalent which is likely to be cheaper and not scented.  If you use a scented one, you'll need to be far more thorough about rinsing (in warm/hot water) after label removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its also worth noting that some labels have a plasticy sheen to them.  This can simply be peeled off before soaking so the solution can more easily soak into the paper part of the label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the label is all-plastic, it will likely have a much gooey-er glue (not water soluble) which will likely need much harsher removal treatments.  I typically discard these ones in favour of the paper-based labels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="357" LastEditorUserId="357" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T20:26:04.137" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T20:26:04.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="594" CreationDate="2016-05-26T21:47:04.077" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things to keep in mind, starting with which rose to pick for drying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roses that are too old, too wide open or about to loose their petals will have a higher tendency to fall apart after drying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wide open flower heads will collapse during drying. Also the then clumped-together petals have a higher risk of staying moist too long and getting musty or moldy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flower buds will stay very compact, again with a risk of mold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not all colours dry well - whites and light yellows tend to develop brown spots, very dark reds become blackish. As a rule of thumb, colours get darker during drying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a semi-open rose in a medium pink, orange or red is a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drying, the main issue is to ensure a good airflow and low humidity. Cooler is actually often better than hot and humid. By all means, keep the flowers out of direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be tempting to take that bouquet and just hang it upside down (and it sometimes works), but taking it apart and hanging individual flowers is the safer way to go. Whether you use pieces of string or clip them with clothespins on your laundry rack is up to you. Also, think about removing the lower leaves, they tend to get in the way or crumble when arranging the dry flowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some prefer to spray the blooms with hairspray or laquer, but while it preserves the colour, it can increase brittleness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T21:47:04.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-26T22:25:48.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Method for effortless removing labels and glue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill the bottle with boiling water and wait a few minutes. High temperature should weaken the adhesive, so the labels can be peeled in one piece.&#xA;Use a kitchen funnel and  baking glove to avoid hand burns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adhesive will remain on the bottle. To wash it of use kitchen steel wool and ordinary vegetable cooking oil, then wash the oil from the bottle with warm soapy water or in the dishwasher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIPS:&#xA;1.) If the temperature of the bottle with boiling water is not enough to peel off the labels (to thick glass), you can put a few bottles already filled with hot water to a large pot. Then boil them for a while in it (thus you sterilize them inside for future drinking reuse)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vegetable oil should work for  most of the typical labels adhesives, but if not, you can use stronger solvent - acetone (or acetone based nail polish remover).&#xA;Keep in mind that acetone fumes emit a strong, unpleasant odor and is highly flammable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is soaking the labeled bottles (about one hour) in a mixture of water with baking soda. Then scrubbing with steel wool, and washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="361" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T22:25:48.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-26T22:28:27.953" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;There usually two different kinds of glue you commonly find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One will come off if you just soak the label under water over night. Doesn't have to be soapy. It helps to score the surface of the label with a cross hatching with a razor. Some labels are waterproof. You need the water to get through to the glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other kind of glue will come off with VM&amp;amp;P Naphtha (common solvent at a hardware store) You can also use Ronsonol Lighter Fluid, which is basically the same thing, but a little bit more refined and clean. Both are far superior and cheaper than &quot;Goo Gone&quot; or &quot;Goof Off&quot;. With Naphtha you pour a liberal amount at the edge of a sticker. Use a plastic scraper to get under the edge of the label. As you lift the Naphtha will be able to get under the label and loosen more of the glue. Keep adding more Naphtha. Peel slowly. Let the solvent glide the sticker off. Don't force it. Naphtha has a strong smell, but it evaporates quickly leaving no odor. It can be used to remove stickers from paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are removing a sticker from something valuable then I would use the Ronsonol Lighter Fluid. It almost exactly the same stuff as VM&amp;amp;P Naphtha but it's refined to be a little cleaner and less smelly (after all, it's designed to sit in a wick lighter in your pocket). Some people blanch at the idea of dumping lighter fluid on a book to remove a sticker, but after a few minutes the fluid will be gone. Test first. Only very rarely have I found that the lighter fluid will dissolve ink or paint. It's actually pretty neat how well it targets sticker glue without harming anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="362" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T23:04:08.037" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T23:04:08.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-26T23:02:03.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are specialised chemical sprays, available reasonably cheaply, for doing exactly this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/csPC1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/csPC1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnbNX.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnbNX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-label-remover-200ml-n63an&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Maplins one&lt;/a&gt;. It comes in an aerosol spray bottle and with a long thin tube to attach to the aerosol so as to direct the spray very precisely if required. I've found it fast and effective at removing labels from not only glass but also plastic and metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T23:02:03.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-27T00:29:40.200" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;strong&gt;2 kinds of glue&lt;/strong&gt; used in bottles (as far as I'm aware):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water based glue;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil based glue;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To remove&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For water based&lt;/strong&gt; Leave the bottle soaking overnight and scrub it next day. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For oil based&lt;/strong&gt; As oil is more expensive than water and soaking in oil would take up a lot of it, I just put oil in my hands and spread the oil on the label. Make sure the label is soaked with the oil. It can be any general cooking oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the label has soaked for some hours, try scrubbing it under running water. Sometimes with the oil ones I have to soak it again if the whole thing didn't soak enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finding out glue type&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just try the water method. If it doesn't work, go with the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This has worked for every label I tried (and managed) to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="364" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T00:29:40.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T00:58:48.843" Score="7" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few references to speeding up the process of drying flowers using ceramic tiles (apparently ones for this purpose) and a microwave, but not many of the videos and guides are very specific about the length of time and power of the microwave that works best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this also depends on the type of flowers, but I am wondering if there are some tips that are useful while someone is trying to experiment and work out the best settings and parameters to set for doing something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="365" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T18:22:48.327" Title="Tips for pressing flowers using a microwave" Tags="|flowers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-27T04:17:34.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Vinegar&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had never found just water alone to work. I usually felt the need to remove most of the label before I recycled it. But now I have tried vinegar to much success. Here is the bottle I tested with before:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJRWym.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJRWym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ugly label bottle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it has not been mentioned, I thought I would go into a little detail by doing an experiment. After removing what I could of the label and adhesive by hand, I placed the label in a shallow pool of vinegar. I had read that you can simply brush it on, so the amount I used might have been overkill. I left it for just under an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I picked it up, I was able to peel off the label and nearly all the adhesive. I used a scrub cloth to remove what little remained. While there does &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; to be some residual adhesive, the glass is no longer tacky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgjoLm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgjoLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Near labelless bottle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, Matt, vinegar smells! If that is the case, then you can mix in some lemon juice. The smell will work itself out regardless in short time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T21:15:39.070" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T21:15:39.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-27T09:26:23.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For labels not affected by the dishwasher I found that WD-40 removes most glues, and it has the advantage that it is easily absorbed by paper labels so just spraying it on the label and waiting is usually enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic labels are easier to peel off, a cloth or paper towel with WD-40 is usually enough to clean the remaining glue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="370" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T09:26:23.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="598" CreationDate="2016-05-27T13:15:13.550" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a general sense it is a very good practice to refer to the material safety data sheets (MSDS) for products like this. The product labels, in theory, should also contain similar information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MSDSs will always contain more information though. They will break down all the information needed about the product when it comes to safety. It should be safe to assume that &lt;a href=&quot;https://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&amp;amp;id=16025026&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov&lt;/a&gt; is a good source of this information. I located the sheet for your specific product. Most other MSDS's for turps cover the exact same sentiment as far as storage and handling is concerned. For completeness sake I have also included some basic handling as well in the information quoted below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;HANDLING:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Isolate from oxidizers, heat, sparks, electric equipment &amp;amp; open flame. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Use only with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing of vapor or spray mist. Avoid prolonged or repeated contact with skin. Wear OSHA Standard goggles or face shield. Consult Safety Equipment Supplier. Wear gloves, apron &amp;amp; footwear impervious to this material. Wash clothing before reuse. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Avoid free fall of liquid. Ground containers when transferring. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Do not flame cut, saw, drill, braze, or weld. &lt;strong&gt;Empty container very hazardous! Continue all label precautions!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;STORAGE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Keep in &lt;strong&gt;fireproof surroundings&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep separated from strong oxidants, incompatible materials. Keep cool. Keep inside a well-ventilated room&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Keep &lt;strong&gt;container tightly closed &amp;amp; upright&lt;/strong&gt; when not in use to prevent leakage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Text is copied as is. Formatting and emphasis is my own.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it cool, ventilated and away from sources of oxidants and sources of ignition. Ensure the container is seal and cleaned between uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about the cause of the leaking. &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/618/44&quot;&gt;Chris Johns has a good theory though.&lt;/a&gt; Assuming you follow the instructions above it should not happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1139512&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;discussion between users and the smells created by turpentine like yours and artist grade&lt;/a&gt;. Consensus is that the &quot;cheap&quot; stuff has a more offending odor &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T19:31:17.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="356" CreationDate="2016-05-27T13:15:27.697" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;When rejecting DIY solutions, you are limiting your choice a lot. Methylcellulose (MC)-glued double and triple tissue and well as self-made tissue foil are very popular and relatively inexpensive materials for folding exactly the kind of models you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation is not hopeless, however. There are ready-made papers which may suit your needs, but you will usually have to pay dearly for the benefit of not having to prepare paper yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For practice, Kraft paper is often very good. It is widely available, strong, and you can get it in a range of thicknesses, including thin (e.g. 40 gsm). It does not look too good, but its folding properties are quite nice and it is inexpensive. You can usually get some variant in a local art supply store and save on shipping fees. This kind of paper often comes in rolls in which case you can get large formats, even above 1 m, easily (you have to cut the square yourself in such case, though).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.origami-shop.com/en/origamipapertissuefoil60x60greenscrapbookingorigamishopcom-xml-219_346_349-1510.html&quot;&gt;Nicolas Terry Tissue Foil&lt;/a&gt; is a ready-to-use replacement for self-made tissue foil and seems to be thinner than what you can make yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various mulberry papers can be good for this sort of models. They are available online and sometimes in art supply stores (depending on where you live).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A broad range of Washi papers are suitable for complex models. Be careful, however as Washi can mean a lot of different things, from very thin to rather thick. Be sure to check the weight / thickness of the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A number of hand made papers may be suitable but since they are all unique, and often do not even have an official weight rating, it may be hard to find the right one without touching it or having a qualified seller who knows origami choose one for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And of course at the high end there's some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.origami-shop.com/en/origamido-paper-xml-207_215_657_285-2000.html&quot;&gt;Origamido available online&lt;/a&gt;. That's what Robert Lang often uses for his best models, though it comes with a price tag of €13 per sheet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were some specific paper types which may (or may not) fit your model. Note that each particular model may have different requirements on thickness and stiffness of the paper. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/origami-artist-galen/23735114470/&quot;&gt;Shuki Kato's elephant&lt;/a&gt; can certainly be considered a complex model (196 steps) but it can be, and very often is, folded from Elephant Hide paper (110 gsm) which is an absolute no go for most insect models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, think about a particular model. What you can do is search flickr or other places where lots of origami models are displayed for your model. People will often add the paper type and weight to the model's description and this can help you choose paper for your own folding. When you buy online at a specialist origami store, you can also ask the shop about particular paper's suitability for certain kinds of models. No one can guarantee you a good fold (it depends very much on your own work), but they can give you hints which paper may be good and which you should avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ilan Garibi has a series of &lt;a href=&quot;https://origamiusa.org/thefold/keywords/278&quot;&gt;paper reviews on OrigamiUSA&lt;/a&gt; where he has reviewed a number of commercially available papers. I have found these reviews to be very helpful when I started to get interested in origami papers myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, here are some properties of the paper you should look for. Generally, you want your paper to be thin, yet strong and crisp. In more detail, this means paying attention to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper weight, usually expressed in gsm (grams per square meter). These values are only approximate ratings but they give you an idea of how thick the paper is. 80 gsm is the weight of standard copy paper and is too much for many complex models, for which you should look for 40-60 gsm paper. Some very fine papers used for insects go as low as 20 gsm. Elephant Hide, a thick and stiff paper, is rated at 110 gsm. Papers around 160-300 gsm are suitable for wet folding but hardly foldable dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fibre types: hand-made papers have long fibres which is usually a good thing. Longer fibres make the paper stronger and make it behave better when you need to wet fold some detail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crispness: it should be possible to make a sharp, well-defined crease at exactly the place you want it and paper should hold the crease well. This is especially important for complex folds like sinks where you precrease a line and then collapse along it. Soft paper has its benefits too, but too soft may make folding difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aging: one of the reasons I started using better papers was I noticed I had to throw away a number of old models which had faded and become very ugly. If you invest a lot of time into folding a complex model, you want it to stay looking fresh for a long time. Chlorine-free and acid-free papers are expected to last longer than those with the extra additives. Hand made papers often avoid these chemicals and age quite well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://origamiusa.org/thefold/article/paper-review-1-elephant-hide&quot;&gt;first paper review by Ilan Garibi&lt;/a&gt; describes these and many more properties which affect how origami paper behaves when you fold it and which make it suitable or not for particular model types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T13:15:27.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-27T13:40:50.917" Score="4" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might have made this too broad but I think this applies to all intersecting plane models. Simplest example, and the one I have actually tried, is the XYZ square. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rn7ZK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rn7ZK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Completed XYZ Square&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.happyfolding.com/gallery-ow-xyz_square&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;happyfolding.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even see the yellow component face towards you has wrinkles.  I would conclude that was the last one inserted to complete the model. Also the red paper pouch is a little bowed out from the insertion process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a tough time getting the last module in and ended up having to use implements to hold parts open so that I could try and slide in the last piece. I usually also use scissors to make the flaps (that you will see below) smaller to insert it easier. Instructions for this specific model can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nickrobinson.info/clients/owrigami/show_diagram.php?diagram=xyz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In the instructions the last steps are apply described: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[A]ssembling the first 4 units is easy, last two are difficult&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks bad when it is done by me. It is possible the paper has something to do with it. I made my model from 4&quot; square origami paper stock.  Is there more advice I could head for models like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T21:09:48.900" Title="What can I do to finish intersecting plane models with minimal buckling?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-27T13:49:44.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know, depending on the type of label, there's nothing wrong with letting the bottles sit in hot soapy water for awhile (half an hour or so), which will soften up the label and glue, and you should be able to remove most of it pretty easily after that.  Whatever remains will come off with a soapy sponge and hot water.  Simple, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="374" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T13:49:44.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="410" CreationDate="2016-05-27T14:10:27.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you found yourself Google Translate was not particularly helpful in this matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By overlaying the more because What is the other side &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;` Ru to one representing the thumb of muscle &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To SenWataru and ho stick base of Ne亢layers of trout&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although a state of twisted without breaking the non- g was Li &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only to cowpea in the following figure around the hand of Saki珊 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Become good long as )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And using the camera-based Google Translate, we get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To represent the muscles of the thumb by overlaying more flipping and to the opposite side (but better at the root of this layer is to state that twisted without breaking the perfect interfere with the base looks like the following figure only the peripheral of the hands of the tip it is sufficient)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/transcript/message/29942772#29942772&quot;&gt;I approached the users in Japanese.SE chat&lt;/a&gt; for help with this. This is a wiki since the work was done by &lt;a href=&quot;https://japanese.stackexchange.com/users/7810/broccoli-forest&quot;&gt;broccoli forest&lt;/a&gt; who is a user over there. It was translated as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;roll up a layer and cover up opposite side with it so that visualize thumb's muscle &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note though, by that users admission, he is not familiar with origami.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:43:49.810" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T18:49:55.830" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-05-27T14:10:27.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="219" CreationDate="2016-05-27T15:52:49.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try applying a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frisket#Frisket&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;frisket&lt;/a&gt; to the bird and flowers first (to isolate and protect your lighter more detailed areas) before beginning painting your background.  Once your background color/colors have dried you can remove the frisket from the next area you want to paint by rubbing with an eraser. You can remove as much or as little frisket as you need to paint the next area (to isolate the following color) or remove it entirely (so colors can blend) before proceeding with the bird and flower areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="382" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T18:51:15.807" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T18:51:15.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2016-05-27T19:00:45.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that thinking purely in terms of grey scale may be placing an artificial restriction on yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like what you are really interested in is to train your ability to make the connection between shade and three dimensional form with reference to depth and lighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that the best way to do this is to do a lot of monochrome drawing exercises, particularly of arbitrary shapes (such as randomly draped cloth) where you don't have any prior knowledge to inform you of what the form 'should' be. Similarly doing similar exercises under very directional or monochrome lighting may also help. Here it can help to force yourself to tackle subjects which seem impossible to draw such as piles of rice or pasta, bundles or rags, screwed up paper etc etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be useful to do as bit of basic sculpture in a plastic medium such as clay just to help to reinforce the link in your brain between the form that you see and the form that you are reproducing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately life painting, drawing or sculpture is about finding a method of translating what you see onto a piece of paper, canvas or whatever and this applies just as much to more abstract and expressive approaches as traditional representational painting and this translation process is what defines your individuality as an artist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T19:00:45.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="598" CreationDate="2016-05-27T19:10:23.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually tins like this will be fairly well sealed if you re-close them properly, however there will often be a bit of overspill which collects around the top of the  tin from pouring out the contents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind it will help a lot of you take the time to wipe up any spills from around the tin before you store it and for anything which leaves a dry residue take special care to clean the threads/ sealing surfaces of the lid as any solid residue may impair the seal (an also make it difficult to open again). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to bear in mind that anything which contains volatile solvents is a substantial fire risk both because their vapours can catch light very easily and because they can dramatically accelerate any fire which does start near them. So storing them in your bedroom may not be ideal from a safety perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have problems with leaked from the supplied containers there are some more robust industrial  type containers available for volatile and flammable liquids which you could consider transferring them to, especially if you have no choice but to store them at home. These may also make it easier to dispense them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T19:23:43.020" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T19:23:43.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="613" CreationDate="2016-05-27T21:09:48.900" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, paper may play a role here. Typical Kami paper (I assume this is what you mean by &quot;square origami paper stock&quot;) is rather thin which means it is easy for the outer, visible layer to become crumpled and embossed with the pattern of the layers below when you squeeze multiple layers together. An example is visible as a diagonal line on the yellow unit in the picture. Thin paper may also wrinkle and deform as you force the flaps inside pockets. In my opinion even plain colored copy paper is often better since it's somewhat thicker and stiffer. You could also try stiffer papers such as Tant or Elephant Hide. They will make it harder to leave marks on the paper as you move it around, but on the other hand the extra stiffness may make connecting the units even harder as it's harder to bend the units as you wrestle with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other important aspect is technique. With tightly-knit models it is usually really hard to insert the last unit or two, so some level of imperfection is probably unavoidable. But there are some things you can do to reduce visible artifacts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strive for more symmetry as you fold. Instead of just inserting the last flap into its pocket when everything else is already in place, try to close the last vertex where three modules meet in a single step. So instead of two tabs fully inserted and one not at all, try to start with a loose assembly where all three flaps are just barely inserted into their pockets. Then, slowly try to tighten it, inserting the flaps deeper and deeper, all at the same time and trying to keep is as symmetric as possible. At one point the flaps should snap and all fall into their positions simultaneously. This technique requires at least moderately stiff paper and might not work with Kami (but give it a try). It may require a lot of coordination but often this technique allows one to close corners which would be impossible to close by manipulating just a single flap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When folding, sometimes you have to make inexact folds on purpose in order to accommodate paper thickness. Diagrams are sometimes drawn with &quot;perfect&quot;, zero-thickness paper in mind. Actual paper has non-negligible thickness and when you fold five layers, they are about ½ mm thick which can already be significant. So sometimes when you fold an edge to a point, you should actually fold a little bit before it so that it gets into the right place later when more paper layers accumulate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice. Some tricks are just muscle memory and hard to explain to others but you will come up with such tricks yourself and develop techniques that suit you well as you fold more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheat. Sometimes you can leave out the last flap by folding it back below the unit instead of into its pocket, and no one will notice. In a model with strong locks, one missing lock will not significantly affect the model's stability and may not be easy to spot visually, either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T21:09:48.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="621" CreationDate="2016-05-28T13:49:30.283" Score="3" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Talking about the designs on the papers from left to right, first column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://paintspot.ca/54-things-you-can-make-with-handmade-papers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://paintspot.ca/54-things-you-can-make-with-handmade-papers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3uPvc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3uPvc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have oil pastels, water colours and poster colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a practical way to produce such abstract designs on the paper without creating a mess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the type of color matter? What kind of color should be prefered? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the type of paper matter? What kind of paper should be preferred?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to hang the results on a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T20:44:26.323" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T20:44:26.323" Title="How to make abstract /marbled designs on a paper?" Tags="|paper|dye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2016-05-28T18:32:36.363" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of techniques to do something called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_marbling&quot;&gt;paper marbling&lt;/a&gt;, and some of them may suit your needs and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basics of the process come down to putting something in a painting tray, such as water or a foam (usually shaving cream), adding some paint, and then laying the paper on top to absorb the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean up may involve removing excess materials, and generally allowing the paper to completely dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the paint is mixed with something to help keep it sitting on top of the water, where your paper will be. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rookiemag.com/2013/01/diy-paper-marbling/&quot;&gt;This Rookie Mag tutorial&lt;/a&gt; suggests using a little turpentine. Then you can use some sticks to marble the paint together. The tutorial linked has a special device made, but most demonstrations show someone using a single spare piece of plastic or wood to get it done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get some really neat effects due to the way the oil repels the water. Adding drops of plain water to an area of paint will create a circle of empty space. Add a drop of paint inside it and you'll make a ring. You can repeat this to get as many nested rings as you'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are an amazing number of tutorials already out there to cover this, and a lot of different methods. If this technique is suitable for you, then you should be able to find a step-by-step guide that walks you through getting this done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, a similar technique is used for &quot;hydro dipping&quot;, a popular way to give a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59NQdsUlISghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59NQdsUlISg&quot;&gt;tie dye effect on animal skulls&lt;/a&gt;. The concept is the same, and so watching the many tutorial videos about it may help give you some idea of the requirements and capabilities of the technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T18:32:36.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-29T00:58:17.533" Score="5" ViewCount="2891" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I have never heard of one outside of this stack I was curious and looked into the use of the hot wire cutter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most to the instructional video that use it either don't discuss, or glaze over, safety features of the tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What need I be aware of when using this tool? What safety precautions should I observe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure there are different manufacturers and tools variants but the advice should be the same mostly all around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T01:14:10.847" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T01:40:17.887" Title="What safety precautions should I observe while using a hot wire cutter?" Tags="|safety|hot-wire-cutter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="622" CreationDate="2016-05-29T01:40:17.887" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The majority of the safety recommendations relate to the fact that this is a &lt;em&gt;hot&lt;/em&gt; wire cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use caution near the wire. It is hot and can burn you. Keep fingers and hands out of the way. (I was once stupidly holding the wire section of my hot wire cutter while chatting to another student, and the cutter got plugged in. I had an very straight burn across all my fingers and a fun story to share in safety discussions.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If setting the hot wire cutter down between cuts, make sure it is not on a flammable surface (e.g., paper, plastic, oily rags...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After you're done using it, unplug and make sure it is completely cool before putting it away. (This happens quite quickly, though. The extremely small volume of the wire means it heats quickly, and cools quickly.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the foams cut with hot wire cutters or hot knives produces smelly, irritating &lt;a href=&quot;http://gallery.hotwirefoamfactory.com/faqs/faqs-foam/&quot;&gt;smoke and fumes when heated&lt;/a&gt; (and some can be toxic). So, it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://terragenesis.co.uk/infopages/page173.html&quot;&gt;important to have adequate ventilation&lt;/a&gt;. This means outdoors, or with windows/doors open, or with specialized equipment (e.g. a fume hood). Always research any material that you work with (e.g., by requesting and reading the MSDS) and understand the risks involved and suggested remedies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T01:40:17.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="595" CreationDate="2016-05-29T07:01:17.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many labels that won't just soak off can be removed with a heat gun or hair dryer. Just heat up the label, starting with the corner you want to start at, and they'll usually peel off nicely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to get it REALLY hot, just really warm it up. If I don't have a heat gun or hair dryer handy, or don't want to bother with it, I'll hold it over the flame on a gas stove, sometimes even slightly in the flame, rotating it. After 5 or 10 seconds, it starts to peel off easily.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T07:01:17.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="641" CreationDate="2016-05-29T13:35:31.133" Score="6" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, for coloring narrow drawings like branches of a tree, I think we need to layer a dark color on a light color, and then scratch off the top layer from the branches area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is how would I see the underlying sketch to know where are the branches exactly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T09:42:23.247" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T19:16:55.117" Title="Since oil pastels require layering of colors on the top of each other, how am I supposed to see the underlying sketch?" Tags="|oil-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="532" CreationDate="2016-05-29T22:39:32.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also use different grades of pencils to change the tone of the work - also known as blending &lt;em&gt;(an introduction to art techniques, glossary).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To accomplish this sort of blending you use different &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pencil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pencil grades.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best example of shading and tone transition that I've seen is in &lt;em&gt;The Art of Pencil Drawing, by Gene Franks.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He uses an H, F, HB, B, 3B, and 5B pencil to achieve a full range of tone. Start light make the H go as hard as you can comfortably get it then pick up the F and overlap continue as such with remaining pencils and various hand positions/techniques while drawing. Practice is recommended in his instruction of achieving tone. He says, &quot;practice this as a musician would practice scales.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Personally I use and have used as many grades as I can get my hands on. I tend to stay with graphite, turn away from the F's, and by far consider the 12B pencil to be my all time favorite. Dark, soft, hard to find.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphite, I read once, is supposed to be water soluble and create a sort of &quot;water color&quot; look to the pencil when water is applied. I've never quite got the look or hand of it. I find that a blending stump is most effective and comfortable when trying to soften up a sketch. That or my fingers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q-tips, erasers, water, and tortillions have been unpredictable; no matter the support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastEditorUserId="396" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T22:49:38.890" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T22:49:38.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2002" CreationDate="2016-05-29T23:22:49.823" Score="12" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used to frequent art-critique forums, I would often hear senior artists advise people to &quot;push values&quot;, generally with little to no explanation beyond that. I gathered that in many cases it meant to make darks darker, but that's as far as I got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this phrase mean in a drawing/painting context?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T15:31:30.053" Title="What does it mean to &quot;push your values&quot;?" Tags="|drawing|painting|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="682" CreationDate="2016-05-30T09:41:51.070" Score="10" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following video shows that it is possible to color tiny parts of a drawing with oil pastels, without layering and then scraping the top layer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuQ4xkb6Q88&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuQ4xkb6Q88&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to know how is that done? Oil pastels by default do not have sharp edge. They are thick and round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are we expected to sharpen them like a pencil? I guess that would waste a lot of color.&#xA;Or is there a way to sharpen the oil pastels without much wastage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the way to color tiny parts of a picture with oil pastels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T14:11:33.440" Title="What is the way to color tiny parts of a picture with oil pastels?" Tags="|oil-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="632" CreationDate="2016-05-30T10:15:07.557" Score="8" ViewCount="4837" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are good materials to neatly glue mug pieces together?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, the final object should be:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - waterproof,&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - food-safe and&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - heat proof&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(as stated by @SF, this last requirement makes things more difficult).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By neatly I mean that one should see the crack as less as possible. By heat proof, I mean that I wish that my final object should be able to contain at least a tea or a coffee and I'd like to be able to put it in the dish-washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember my father repairing broken flower pots with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Araldite&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Araldite&lt;/a&gt; but I'm fearing that this is absolutely not food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T15:40:52.333" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T15:47:38.990" Title="How to glue mug pieces" Tags="|adhesives|pottery|food-safe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2016-05-30T11:59:39.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most 2 part epoxies are food safe &lt;em&gt;once fully cured&lt;/em&gt;. You can see these used in kitchen applications like counter tops and bread boards. There are some that advertise as being food safe grade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.masterbond.com/properties/food-safe-adhesives-sealants-coatings-encapsulation-compounds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Masterbond.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading the product labels both on the product itself and online will help. Some will even reference FDA compliance when it comes to food safety. If you find something that does not quote it, err on the side of caution and consider a different product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many epoxies, once cured, can handle high temperatures. So it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be fine to use to glue your mug pieces. Ratings of different products will vary so be sure to make an informed purchase e.g: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Scotch-Weld-Epoxy-Adhesive-EC-2216-Gray-43-mL-12-per-case?N=5582857+6081606+3294872000&amp;amp;rt=rud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Epoxy Adhesive EC-2216&lt;/a&gt;: Rated to -423°F/-252°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.masterbond.com/tds/ep21tdcht&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Masterbond EP21TDCHT&lt;/a&gt;: Rated to -100°F/-73°C to +350°F/176°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.lepagesupsup-epoxy-gel.1000406795.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LePage® Epoxy Gel&lt;/a&gt;: Rated to -9°F/-23°C to 120°F/49°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; the latter is not rated for something like boiling water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can take from 24 hours to a couple of days (usually for larger applications). I recently used epoxy to fix my hand made ceramic renaissance mug handle which broke in 4 places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T15:47:38.990" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T15:47:38.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T14:32:25.243" Score="6" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old straw hat that suits me really well. However, after years of use the front of the crown is worn out. It's a little hard to see in the photo below, but a hole has developed that I could fit my finger through. Is there some way in which a worn out part of a straw hat can be repaired or patched up, or is this a lost cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be preferable to restore the original appearance if possible, but I'd be OK with anything that looks neat. (I previously tried stitching it up with straw-coloured string, but the stitches needed to be quite big and I couldn't get them even, so it didn't look good at all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lZsox.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lZsox.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-12-09T00:27:16.067" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T00:27:16.067" Title="Can I patch up a straw hat?" Tags="|clothing|hats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2046" CreationDate="2016-05-30T14:34:56.193" Score="7" ViewCount="4160" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;em&gt;so many types of foam&lt;/em&gt; and of as many different chemical compositions. Not that this should be taken as standard but &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot-wire_foam_cutter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the wiki for hot wire cutter&lt;/a&gt; has this for the first sentence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A hot-wire foam cutter is a tool used to cut &lt;strong&gt;polystyrene foam and similar materials&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Emphasis mine&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard pink crafting foams appear to be made from polystyrene as well. Polystyrene is a really broad plastic and it is used in lots of things though. Standard expanded packing foam (the white bubble stuff) is made from polystyrene. So I should be able to work with any of those? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep foam packing materials in case I need to return products. I need a way to identify foams that are safe to use a hot-wire cutter on. I think a smaller list to limit myself to certain foams as supposed to listing which ones I should avoid (assuming there are any?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping to the actual foam variants: Is that what I should limit myself to? Polystyrene? Some fumes can more toxic than others. Some foams might be more flammable than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T02:03:43.777" Title="Are there certain types of foams I should not be cutting?" Tags="|hot-wire-cutter|foam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T15:40:32.297" Score="16" ViewCount="13758" Body="&lt;p&gt;For simple perspective drawings, you don't really need to get into having a station point (or vantage point, not vanishing point) at all. As I'm looking at more complex methods, a station point becomes necessary to map your plan to to perspective layout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there guidelines for determining where to place the station point? Is it arbitrary? I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://guidetodrawing.com/linear-perspective/two-point-perspective/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial&lt;/a&gt; that explains that it relates to how far the viewer is from the object, and that moving it vertically adjusts that apparent distance. Yet, it says to always place directly below a certain point, which I'm not sure is necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how its vertical distance from the horizon line and/or picture plane, or its horizontal distance from the vanishing points, might affect the level of distortion of the object in perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T07:21:14.703" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T22:57:26.257" Title="Determining a station point for a perspective drawing" Tags="|drawing|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="636" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-30T15:48:08.700" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T15:48:08.700" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T15:48:08.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="637" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-30T15:48:08.700" Score="0" Body="For questions about constructing linear perspectives and using perspective techniques." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T15:48:08.700" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T15:48:08.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="629" CreationDate="2016-05-30T20:47:18.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means to build up the painting from black and white values, this helps create shape and depth. This is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/529/how-to-best-judge-grey-values-for-paintings&quot;&gt;How to best judge grey values for paintings?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many sites on this; like &lt;a href=&quot;http://lizwiltzen.blogspot.com/2013/04/learning-to-design-with-value.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Learning to Design with Value”&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a painting is done you can adjust values using glazes to modify a layer. That is what is meant by critics about pushing values; expend the value range. Apart from making things darker and lighter it is also essential to have a temperature range by contrasting warm and cool shades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T20:49:07.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2016-05-31T07:19:24.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A small tip when you buy a new color pencil, if it has a round shape and it is the case of the prismacolor, you can make them roll on a plane surface. If one does not roll as the well as the others it is likely that the core of this pencil is broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you want to protect them, some pencil cases exists (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00A6WL0RO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link to amazon&lt;/a&gt;), it protects the pencils in a better way that the original box, because the pencils can't move since they are fixed individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T07:19:24.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="654" CreationDate="2016-05-31T08:31:44.503" Score="11" ViewCount="10003" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is a kind follow up to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/631/how-to-glue-mug-pieces&quot;&gt;this other question&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Indeed, now that I know how to glue pieces of mugs, I'd like to know how to cut them. The idea is to get some cheap IKEA mugs with various colors such as this one:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60143992/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5SZb.png&quot; alt=&quot;IKEA cup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then I'd like to cut them into pieces (preferably not too many, say 3) so that I can reassemble them (by gluing the pieces). The goal is obviously to stick mug pieces of different colors together. For example, the cut should be along the red lines of one of the picture below:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9jwRcs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9jwRcs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VhGwks.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VhGwks.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJqCfs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJqCfs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open for other cutting lines if it makes the process easier. I'm also open to consider a different type of mugs but should say that minimizing the price is important as I potentially would like to make several of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: &lt;strong&gt;Is cutting a mug as above possible and if yes, how?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T05:50:21.370" Title="How to cut a mug without breaking it?" Tags="|tool-selection|pottery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="626" CreationDate="2016-05-31T11:33:55.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're able, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cassart.co.uk/craft/craft_accessories/lighting/artograph_tracer_projector.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tracer projector&lt;/a&gt; could suit your needs. You place it over a small sketch and it magnifies it. No digital images required. Any other kind of normal digital projector will work too - although the resolution might not be as good. Overhead Projectors (&lt;a href=&quot;http://s3-ap-southeast-2.amazonaws.com/wc-prod-pim/JPEG_1000x1000/AC190059AU_nobo_quantum_2511_overhead_projector_grey.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;) are great too, either sketch onto a transparency, or you can buy special transparencies to print on. You can often pick these up very cheap, or even for free - many schools have piles of them in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these methods will allow you to project your sketch over the top of your work, meaning your sketch will not be obscured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastEditorUserId="84" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T19:16:55.117" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T19:16:55.117" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="645" CreationDate="2016-05-31T18:44:01.040" Score="9" ViewCount="2573" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently created a &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/167/do-certain-markers-work-better-on-felt&quot;&gt;kid's activity out of felt&lt;/a&gt;. It's pretty neat... except for the circles. They're pretty uneven, with a lot of jagged edges or straight parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a technique or tool that will help us create &quot;perfect&quot; circles out of the felt? A swivel blade with a plastic stencil works well on paper and thin fabric, but not so much with the thicker felt material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T13:50:40.347" Title="Cut even circles out of felt" Tags="|cutting|felt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="644" CreationDate="2016-05-31T18:55:13.177" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMTgmBRWhXw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;compass cutter like this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUGLZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUGLZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I find this product rather effective on materials like leather or felt. The only problem could be if your felt is too thin, in this case it could be too flexible and it could move around while you move the compass, but I have only had this problem when I tried to cut household linen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T18:57:22.293" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T18:57:22.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="304" CreationDate="2016-06-01T02:07:29.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A historical reason for having writing desks at an incline was that quill pens work better that way. If you ever tried writing with a quill and ended up with a blotchy mess instead of some nice calligraphy, part of the reason was probably that you were writing on a horizontal surface, and thus were holding the pen pretty close to vertical. The closer to vertical the pen, the better the ink flows, but if the ink flows too quickly, you get blotches. If you raise your writing surface at an incline, your pen flattens out, and it's easier to write evenly and without blotches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main reason for using a slanted surface is ergonomics: instead of curling your head over the paper and holding your pen (or other implement) in a death-grip, a slanted surface brings the paper closer to your face -- thus less neck fatigue -- and makes it easier to write/draw with your arm and shoulder instead of your wrist. (Note that the ergonomic advantage is easily lost if you don't sit at an appropriate distance -- too far and you'll need to bend in odd ways to reach, too close and you'll be cramping your elbow and shoulder.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T02:07:29.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="662" CreationDate="2016-06-01T07:09:53.153" Score="7" ViewCount="10144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.firstcry.com/faber-castell/faber-castell-24-tri-colour-pencils/253734/product-detail?ref=GoogleShopping_10_stationery&amp;amp;gclid=CPnbisaehs0CFREWaAodHS4CmA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Faber Castell colors for school children&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I have tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mh2vcl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mh2vcl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter link description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite after repeatedly coloring the same areas with these pencil colors, I could not get better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I can't afford artist grade pencils of Faber castell, I still wish to get the dark colors as shown in the following drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVFUJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVFUJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Art by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dan-stirling.com/prints/hummingbird/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dan Stirling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to get the desired results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T04:21:09.280" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T12:42:02.583" Title="How to get dark colors on paper through pencil colors?" Tags="|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="650" CreationDate="2016-06-01T08:16:15.957" Score="3" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aim is to get dark colors on paper through student grade pencil colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the specifications of the paper required for pencil color drawings? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for on the label? What GSM paper should be preferred, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T09:06:13.510" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T12:15:53.840" Title="What are the specifications of the paper required for pencil color drawings?" Tags="|paper|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="649" CreationDate="2016-06-01T10:38:44.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several characteristic for a paper that should influence your choice :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The weight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher this value will be the thicker and the studier the paper will be. It is usefull to have a rather high value, because you will be able to erase or burnishing, without completely destroying your paper. Personnaly I thing that having 200 gsm is enough, but maybe if you erase a lot and have hard pencils it would be a good idea to aim higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The tooth&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It designs the microscopic grains on the paper that hold the pigments. Thus a paper with more tooth, will be able to receive more layers. But it is possible to apply several layers on paper with less tooth, but your first will have to be very light, otherwise the paper will saturate fast. On the other hand if the paper is very rough, you will have a different finish than on a smooth surface.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For watercolor papers it depends of the denomiantion from the smoother to the rougher, you have : Hot press, Cold Press, Rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jR7SZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jR7SZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acide free paper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a paper that last longer (less yellowing for example) you can use an acid free paper, but since you use student grade colored pencils, it not really necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Products&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try some hot press watercolor paper, and maybe cold press if you feel like you can't layer as much as you wish. If you have some smooth bristol at home, you can also try to work on this paper. Personnaly my favorite paper is the Stonhenge drawing paper, but it may be expensive. You can also use Canson Mi-Teintes if you want to draw on a colored surface, but becareful one side is too rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find here a comparison of different papers, but the colored pencil used are artist grade. It can give you an idea of the finish of your drawing depending on the paper you chose. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.penciltopics.co.uk/page219.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comparison of papers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T10:38:44.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="653" CreationDate="2016-06-01T10:44:29.563" Score="16" ViewCount="48307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to glue a piece of clear acrylic 2mm thick to a piece of plywood that is 5mm thick. They are both 76mm by 50mm and rectangular in shape. They have some cutouts in the middle. It's supposed to be a keychain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are laser cut pieces, if that is important. They are cut exactly the same but I am sandwiching them together for aesthetics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What adhesives can I use that will cure optically clear, i.e. does not discolor or remain noticeable in the acrylic-wood sandwich? Cheap and quick curing options would be great but I understand you can't have the best of them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="408" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T15:37:28.863" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T02:23:10.480" Title="How do you bond clear acrylic to wood?" Tags="|adhesives|wood|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2016-06-01T11:56:40.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for clear epoxies, sometimes sold for encapsulating.  They'll stick fairly well to both materials, though presumably not as well as epoxy sold as glue. You have a lot of contact area so the bond will be strong anyway.  A two part epoxy should be quite cheap - if you can get an appropriate size pack, and I'd expect curing over a few hours though you might be able to get quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have it as clear as possible, you need to make sure that you apply enough to fill the gap and get all the air out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bonded two sheets of clear plastic (one acrylic, one unknown) using ordinary glue epoxy (i.e. not meant to be transparent). That was good but not good enough for your needs. It was very slightly milky, and it cured before I had time to make a jig that would apply enough so I had a few bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to sand and even polish (with fine wet-or-dry paper) cured epoxy, so it could be used to seal the edges as well.  This might be too much work though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T12:23:43.913" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T12:23:43.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2016-06-01T11:57:55.733" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a clear-drying epoxy. Note that not all epoxies are equal. In a general sense they can bond different materials together with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an earlier epoxy advertisement where &lt;a href=&quot;http://go-araldite.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;they glued a car to a billboard with an epoxy resin.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SewZh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SewZh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1983 a visual stunt presentation was set up to show the strength of Araldite by gluing a yellow Ford Cortina to a billboard on Cromwell Road, London, with the tagline &quot;It also sticks handles to teapots&quot;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can usually get 2 part epoxies in a dual syringe form and they are very economical. Depending how often you do this you might want to try a smaller one first as the shelf life of the product varies once used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cheap and quick curing options would be great but I understand you can't have the best of them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only part about this that does not meet your requirements is that they have a longer curing time then something like a craft glue. Setting inside an hour but fully curing over several days is needed in some cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resin and hardener are kept separately as liquids, hence the dual syringe. In larger applications they would be two separate containers. I would suggest not applying directly to your project from the syringe but onto a disposable piece of cardboard or similar. That way you can manually mix the liquids together (usually 1:1 ratio) to ensure an effective reaction. Then use an applicator (craft sticks) to apply to the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to want to clamp this down with decent pressure. There would be the issue of seepage while setting you need to be aware of. Depending on how intricate your cuts are the solution will come out of the wood acrylic sandwich. You want to try and wipe that off &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt;  it sets. Epoxy resins dry really hard so if you have to cut part of it off it will no longer show clear on the cut. You can polish the edges once it cures with extra fine sand paper and / or a polishing compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A long term issue is that set epoxies can yellow over time because of UV radiation. That is likely a moot point as you are making a key chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T13:20:14.983" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T13:20:14.983" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2016-06-01T12:01:12.437" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drapertools.com/product/19328/300mm-Tungsten-Carbide-Grit-Edged-Hacksaw-Blade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;grit edged hacksaw blade&lt;/a&gt; (random example) would be the &lt;em&gt;hand&lt;/em&gt; tool for the job.  It would be a bit of a slow job but not unreasonable (given the rate these things go through tiles).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest making/modifying a jig based on a mitre box to go with it, if you want repeatable, straight cuts. The jig itself might be a bit tricky as it sounds like you want straight, repeatable cuts. You should be able to cast modelling clay, plaster (or even hot glue) around a mug to around half depth using cooking oil as a mould release, all inside a home made or cheap mitre box. Then clamping the workpiece down would be a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like with power tools, work wet.  Unlike power tools you need frequent (rather than continuous) water delivery -- though the latter would do no harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T05:50:21.370" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T05:50:21.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="656" CreationDate="2016-06-01T12:25:09.723" Score="9" ViewCount="1544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told in the other question that cold press paper means paper having tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I want to know - are there any levels of tooth in papers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have paper in the house. It is not glazed. I want to know how much tooth it has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google search resulted in tooth decay information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T16:41:53.143" Title="Does paper have tooth levels?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="655" CreationDate="2016-06-01T12:45:19.627" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! Different papers have different &quot;tooth&quot; -- this is another term for the &lt;em&gt;roughness&lt;/em&gt; of the paper. The smoother a piece of paper feels, the less tooth; the rougher, the more tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most writing or copier/printer paper has very little tooth. It's not common for a tooth &quot;value&quot; to be shown on a package of paper, but different levels of tooth are sold for different purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HQf65.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HQf65.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://helloartsy.com/how-to-choose-quality-drawing-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hello Artsy: How to choose quality drawing paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T12:45:19.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="660" CreationDate="2016-06-01T13:15:20.097" Score="6" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 145 gsm Cartridge paper in my house. I want to know whether it is great for colored pencil drawing or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am told that toothed paper is great for colored pencils. So, I want to know how to find what level of tooth the paper has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the way to find out whether it is the best, good, or worst for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T14:52:12.213" LastActivityDate="2020-03-19T13:19:22.953" Title="How to identify the level of tooth a paper has?" Tags="|paper|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2016-06-01T13:49:23.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of epoxy, an alternative is using peg mounts, similar to sword hilts/knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about the epoxy yellowing, you can drill two holes and insert pegs to secure the acrylic to the wood. It would still be aesthetically pleasing to look at while securing the two pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most craft stores sell pegs in all sizes. Or you can make you own pegs depending on how big you want the hole size to be. For something like a key chain, you could use a 1/16 drill bit and then insert pegs for a clean look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="411" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T16:13:36.510" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T16:13:36.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="657" CreationDate="2016-06-01T13:52:00.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This paper is fine for colored pencils. But its weight is maybe a bit low, so do not erase too much. Also you will probably have the grain still apparent even after several layers. But it is not necessarily a drawback, if it is the finish you want for your drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test your paper you can try to color little surfaces with different pressures, thus you will find the optimal pressure for your type of paper and colored pencils. Also you can try to layer different colors, in order to see after how many layers the paper starts to saturate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T11:53:31.183" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T11:53:31.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="663" CreationDate="2016-06-01T15:21:22.440" Score="4" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a name for the mixture you get upon mixing sand and clay together? As from what I believe, you use something like it in sand casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T02:34:28.937" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T02:34:28.937" Title="Is there a name for sand-clay mixture?" Tags="|terminology|material-identification|clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="648" CreationDate="2016-06-01T15:56:42.900" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the drawing of the hummingbird you posted, darker colored pencils are being used. Children's sets usually have bright, basic colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you may have some luck getting darker colors by layering what you have. Read up on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_theory&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;color theory&lt;/a&gt; and combine colors to give the illusion of overall darker hues. The section on tints &amp;amp; shades from the wiki article is particularly helpful, and includes reasoning as to why you should avoid darkening colors with black or lightening them with white:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is common among some painters to darken a paint color by adding&#xA;  black paint—producing colors called shades—or lighten a color by&#xA;  adding white—producing colors called tints. However it is not always&#xA;  the best way for representational painting, as an unfortunate result&#xA;  is for colors to also shift in hue. [...] Lightening a&#xA;  color by adding white can cause a shift towards blue when mixed with&#xA;  reds and oranges. Another practice when darkening a color is to use&#xA;  its opposite, or complementary, color (e.g. purplish-red added to&#xA;  yellowish-green) in order to neutralize it without a shift in hue, and&#xA;  darken it if the additive color is darker than the parent color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T15:20:22.687" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T15:20:22.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="661" CreationDate="2016-06-01T17:37:51.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clay-sand mixture used in casting is known as &lt;strong&gt;green sand&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;foundry sand&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;molding sand&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Green sand is an aggregate of sand, bentonite clay, pulverized coal and water. Its principal use is in making molds for metal casting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sub&gt;via &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molding_sand&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different proportions of sand, clay, and other compounds &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand_casting#Green_sand&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;result in slightly different properties&lt;/a&gt;, but green sand can be packed tightly to hold its shape and therefore not move when molten metal is poured into a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A walkthrough of the sand casting process can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://foundry101.com/new_page_7.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Foundry 101: Step-by-Step Sand Casting Instructions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T17:37:51.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2016-06-01T23:17:35.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used West Systems wood epoxies with great results. They are strictly professional grade and have a huge range of products. Here is their clear product and it addresses the UV issue as well. (As I recall their system is a two-part epoxy with interchangeable Fillers and Hardeners.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westsystem.com/ss/207-special-clear-hardener&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;West Systems 207 clear hardener&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from the description: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;105/207 has strong physical properties, so it can be used as a structural adhesive for gluing and laminating. It has excellent compatibility with paints and varnishes. An ultraviolet inhibitor in 207 helps provide a beautiful, long lasting finish when used with quality UV filtering varnish. 105/207 cures clear and colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T02:37:12.187" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T02:37:12.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="667" CreationDate="2016-06-02T09:32:12.663" Score="7" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mandala drawings: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandala&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandala&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color pencils are not strong enough to hide the normal pencil. Example: Orange color pencil will not hide the underlying HB graphite pencil &lt;em&gt;outline&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to draw mandala when I intend to color it with pencil colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T06:28:14.247" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T06:28:14.247" Title="How to draw mandala when I intend to color it with pencil colors?" Tags="|drawing|colored-pencils|mandala|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="665" CreationDate="2016-06-02T12:45:02.390" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only think of a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about masking or hiding the sketch. Make bold, dark outlines on purpose. Sketch the pattern you want in graphite, then draw the lines very dark (in graphite, or even ink). This does give the final result something of a &quot;coloring book&quot; feel, which may not be what you're wanting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sketch outlines in the color of their section, or in some very light color (e.g. yellow, pale blue), instead of with graphite. This requires more planning of what colors will go in what part of the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw the outlines dark and bold, and put a second sheet of paper over top to trace those dark lines in the lighter colors of the final drawing. This is easier if you have a light board, but still possible even on a tabletop with sufficiently thin paper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T12:45:02.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="640" CreationDate="2016-06-02T18:41:40.987" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forward&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this answer might seem long it is unfortunately not as in depth as I want. I have not cut any ceramics with the tools and techniques I am going to suggest. Given the desired end result I feel that this would be an approach to consider though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This might be difficult depending on your level of expected precision and tool availability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a suggestion but it involves tools that could be expensive to acquire and potentially a difficult process (I have thoughts on that as well near the bottom). The cuts you propose and the shape of your mugs will affect this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consider wet tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to cutting materials like glass or ceramics with power tools, wet tools are always advised. You don't want these material fragments stuck to your cutting instruments. Nor do you want the inside of the machine to be exposed to them. Aside from hand tools, that would not have this issue, I would suggest that any power tool you consider be a wet tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy tools to comes by for this type of task would be a wet tile saw or a ring saw. Both are for cutting ceramics and glass (as well as some other materials). However neither common variety will have the thickness clearance of your average mug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore a wet band-saw would be a good suggestion here. While there are not too many of these available from what I could tell the real issue is trying to get precision cuts with one of these devices. Of the 4 common ones that showed up in my research they had mostly plastic frames (Likely due to the use of water) and only a couple had what I might consider a mitre slot (Which would be useful for making custom bandsaw sleds). This is important part of the precision I think you would need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLfSv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLfSvm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mitre Slot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The above picture is not a wet bandsaw. It is used to highlight the presence of a mitre slot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following related video where a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiMurfOL8EM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bottle is cut with a wet bandsaw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jigs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with mugs is, depending on your cuts, you cannot make them perfectly straight free hand. At least not without practice experience. This is a major factor here since you intend to reassemble them after. This is also a hard topic to expand on as every mug and every style of cut might need a specialized jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the features of this jig\sled on a bandsaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R3vRL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R3vRLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mitre sled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood in the picture is being held against two fences. Rear fence holds the work 90 degrees to the blade and the other fence is adjustable (see the wheel) to help move the cut in or away from the blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your cups are not flat (at least not the one pictured) so you will need to modify this design. When cutting into curves you need to prevent the cup from rolling around so an easy way to get that is to have two blocks angled into each other (like chucks on a car or plane wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZn7U.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZn7U.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Made in sketchup to illustrate the design&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cup has somewhere to rest and the adjustable fence will give you something to push against to make sure the cut is straight. That design only covers your first cut examples though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting mugs of a uniform width makes this part so much easier to mitigate. A jig would be useful if you were using power tools or not. The idea is to place the cut in a certain position where it will not move unpredictably while you are cutting it. If you are doing it with hand tools then clamps would help as well. Clamps would be good for power tools as well but their position could be awkward and you don't want to risk damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blade kerf&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of your cutting tool, powered or not, you are going to have an issue with the kerf(width of the cut) of blade. Let say that you cut the mug down the exact middle of two identical mugs. Lets assume that your blade kerf is 1/8&quot;. When you go to put that mug together it will now be ~1/8&quot; smaller so the edges of the mugs won't line up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the end of the world obviously. You can address this but cutting off center on your mugs. On one mug you could cut a kerfs width to the right of the cut line and the other a kerfs width to the left. This also means you could have to cuts extra mugs to get the pieces you need. This also assumes your level of perfection your are trying to achieve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are cutting make sure you cut slow. Make sure you cut slow as to not force the blade askew or cause any burning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is doable with power tools but unless I am way off the mark there would be some work involved in getting the right environment to do this properly . If you are willing to concede on some degree of perfection and willing to practice I think hand tools might be the way to go like &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/654/44&quot;&gt;Chris H suggests&lt;/a&gt;. Several caveats above would still apply. You might, in either case, consider food safe grout to make up for any size consistencies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is still feasible though how I describe.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Access to tools/workspace&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are locations that are set up for you to have access to industrial tools. So if purchasing them outright is not in the budget or you are just curious to test; look for something like this in your area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R3vRL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TechShop&lt;/a&gt; is one of these public workshops that, with a membership, gives you access to tools and work space. They have locations all across the United States (which is obviously not useful for all). There are other places like this that exist for the purpose of tool rental and tutorials beyond what you would get from something like a big box store. TechShop is just an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T19:01:51.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="676" CreationDate="2016-06-03T03:18:47.077" Score="6" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was thinking about starting some simple cross stitching projects. I can usually pick up some cheap embroidery skeins in a large pack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I have had in the past, and from what I have seen of other thread collections, is that once you take the paper off a few of them is that they get all tangled up in a mess. Makes you just want to throw out the lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some storage solutions that I could use to keep my thread preferably  together in the same container?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T03:29:19.397" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T12:17:08.380" Title="What can I do to store and segregate my embroidery thread?" Tags="|storage|embroidery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="665" CreationDate="2016-06-03T05:05:00.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to do your drawing with a graphite pencil, but you need to take with an xH hardness grade where x refers to a number. The higher this number will be, the harder the writing core will be and thus the lighter the mark left on the paper will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to pay attention how hard you press on the pencil, even if the pencil lead is soft. A light pressure is advised otherwise you will flatten the tooth of your paper, and you won't be able to color this part of your drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a comparison of strokes with different graphite pencils, depending on their graphite scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oy2da.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oy2da.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="400" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T10:45:17.020" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T10:45:17.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="669" CreationDate="2016-06-03T05:24:25.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mother once owned an embroidery business, and the way she dealt with her thread was to pre-cut it to length, then twist or braid it back into skeins. With the cut-to-length skeins, you can remove a single strand of thread while leaving the rest of the skein intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that this method works best for perle cotton, i.e. the type of embroidery thread that's already twisted into, well, threads, instead of individual strands of floss. If you use it for stranded floss, you need to be careful to remove an entire six-strand thread at once, and only separate out the number of strands you want &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you've removed it from the skein.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/71GBqm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/71GBqm.png&quot; alt=&quot;antique skein winder with four arms&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A skein winder can be very useful for this purpose, but in a pinch, an appropriately-sized piece of cardboard can work just as well. You remove the paper from a skein, find the end, and re-wind the thread, either around the skein winder or around your cardboard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's all wound, you tie a small piece of string around the threads at one of the arms (or one edge of the cardboard), and then you cut the skein in half opposite the tie. Now you can either twist the two halves together -- twist each part clockwise, then twist the parts together counter-clockwise -- or you can re-divide the skein into three parts and braid them together. Don't twist or braid too tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firmly tie off the ends of the braid/twist with an elastic, so it'll continue to hold together as the skein gets smaller. When you need a thread, grab it at the fold and pull it out. The skein will get all accordion-pleated and scary-looking as you're doing this, but it'll smooth right back out after you have your thread.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T05:24:25.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="686" CreationDate="2016-06-03T09:35:23.727" Score="7" ViewCount="4002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy drawing head portraits in pencil, but I've found that sketching an outline of the prominent features often lead me astray. For example, due to shadows my eye is sometimes approximating the feature boundaries. This then impacts shading, and may lead to an amateurish feel and mean having to rework large portions of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the best portraits I've seen are not necessarily precise but instantly identifiable as the person and also capture their 'look'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to start the portrait than trying to capture the outline of the features? Should I be trying to plot the shadows/shapes or start in detail in one area and work out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T01:40:48.643" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T17:04:10.083" Title="How to start a pencil portrait without using an outline of features?" Tags="|drawing|pencil-shading|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="673" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-03T10:33:28.520" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T10:33:28.520" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T10:33:28.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="674" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-03T10:33:28.520" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to materials and techniques used to create gradated tones with pencils to simulate volume or the working of light (e.g. smudging, hatching, or stippling)." OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T13:28:00.850" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T13:28:00.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1723" CreationDate="2016-06-03T10:34:00.753" Score="2" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to study the composition techniques used in following drawings found from a Google search.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for in Google to read about this drawing pattern/technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0l6FI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0l6FI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MeQZl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MeQZl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T18:17:26.473" Title="What is the name of the drawing having free hand shapes of animals, birds, flowers combined together to form a pattern/story?" Tags="|drawing|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="669" CreationDate="2016-06-03T10:59:54.793" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal floss storage method is &lt;strong&gt;floss bobbins&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gdgXA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gdgXA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michaels.com/dmc-floss-bobbins-metal-ring/10151803.html#q=floss+bobbin&amp;amp;start=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Michaels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are typically available in any craft store that sells embroidery floss, in the same aisle as the floss. They're available in either thin plastic or cardstock, and typically have little notches at the top or bottom that lightly hold the floss in place as you wind it (and for storage). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling crafty, you can get free templates (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://redgatestitchery.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/printable-bobbin-for-magnets.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) to print and cut out your own -- either the more traditional &quot;spool&quot; profile, or more interesting/adorable shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKKXw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKKXw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;via &lt;a href=&quot;http://little-white-whale.com/2013/09/diy-string-organizers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Little White Whale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the floss bobbins all stored together, there are a lot of possible storage methods. The above floss bobbin set has an included ring to hold the bobbins together. You can put them all in a plastic bag. You can build a custom box to hold them all in neat little rows. (The biggest limitation is your personal creativity.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rG1XG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rG1XG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;via &lt;a href=&quot;http://katthecraft.blogspot.com/2015/06/diy-embroidery-floss-bobbins-and.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kat the Craft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Always&lt;/em&gt; write the floss color number on the tab&lt;/strong&gt; so you know what color it is after the paper is gone! This does require a little up-front organizational work, but it's less effort than throwing out the tangled mass of thread and driving to the store for more :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T12:44:34.010" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T12:44:34.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="677" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-03T12:42:20.140" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T12:42:20.140" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T12:42:20.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="678" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-03T12:42:20.140" Score="0" Body="For questions about the selection, maintenance, and use of pencils of different colours. Often used together with the [pencils] tag." OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T13:47:15.250" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T13:47:15.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2016-06-03T13:21:01.157" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to travel with watercolour pencils. I have recently started to use them, and the blending solvent is water (obviously!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pencils can be used dry—like normal colored pencils—or they can be applied &amp;quot;wet&amp;quot; to get the desired watercolor effect. In wet application, the artist first lays down the dry pigment and then follows up with a damp paintbrush to intensify and spread the colors. This technique can also be used to blend colors together, and many artists will apply both techniques in one art piece. Artist-grade watercolor pencils typically come in 60 or 72 colors with a few 120 color assortments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colored_pencil#Watercolor_pencils&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faber-Castell and Curan D'Ache have beautiful sets, but as I'm only starting out I'm currently using Derwent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T16:02:38.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1711" CreationDate="2016-06-03T13:47:15.647" Score="6" ViewCount="2781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased 7 A3 prints from my good friend, in order to liven up my house. However, having not thought this through, I am unsure how to best frame them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not wish for the quality of the print to degrade quickly. Is it preferential to use glass in my frame? Are there any hazards that a newbie such as I will overlook?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My prints are backed on some sort of thin textured card. They are posters, although I am unsure how the art prints have been applied to the card. The prints will likely be situated away from direct sunlight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T19:48:06.947" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T20:40:20.067" Title="Framing A3 Print" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1700" CreationDate="2016-06-03T14:08:07.740" Score="8" ViewCount="2102" Body="&lt;p&gt;After gold leafing part a piece of IKEA furniture, I'm going a little gold leaf crazy. I'd like to leaf part of my phone case, which is a flexible matte plastic. Will the adhesive stick to it? I would test if I could, but I unfortunately only have the one case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00MBS1NA0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is the listing for the case. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tpu-cases.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=104_105&amp;amp;products_id=396&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manufacturer's website&lt;/a&gt; the case is made from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic_polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thermoplastic polyurethane&lt;/a&gt; or TPU. According to the wiki it has the following common properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;high abrasion resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;low-temperature performance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;high shear strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;high elasticity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;transparency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;oil and grease resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using ArtMinds gold leaf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T21:06:58.730" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T15:43:26.810" Title="Will gold leaf adhesive work on flexible TPU plastic?" Tags="|adhesives|gold-leaf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="630" CreationDate="2016-06-03T14:11:33.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One method is to use a small piece of the pastel and some solvent to create an 'oil paint' and with a brush complete the high detail components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Oil pastel pigment can be manipulated with a brush moistened in white spirit, turpentine, linseed oil, or another type of vegetable oil or solvent. Alternatively, the drawing surface can be oiled before drawing or the pastel itself can be dipped in oil.&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_pastel#use&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally haven't used this method, but I watched my Great Auntie finish some of her pastel work with a brush and solvent. Here is a good explanation of how to use solvents and oil pastels: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.explore-oil-pastels-with-robert-sloan.com/thinner-wash.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robert Sloan - Thinner Wash&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T14:11:33.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2016-06-03T14:32:27.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creating detailed outlines of features and then fleshing them out can often lead you to draw yourself into a corner - you'll put a lot of detail into a particular spot and find that it's off (I've done this countless of times, it never gets any less frustrating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked if you should try to plot shadows and shapes and this is a great way to work -- instead of trying to find the outline of a face for portraits, which can be difficult with severe or unusual lighting, it can be far more helpful to hatch out shadows, thus more easily capturing the overall shape of whatever face you happen to be drawing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T14:32:27.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32" CreationDate="2016-06-03T15:39:24.123" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an article that I have posted on my website for quite some time. I hope you find it helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Plastisol / Screen Printed Transfers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These are transfers that are screen printed by an outside transfer company or by yourself with the use of screen printing equipment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Durability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Very Good, often outlasts the life of the garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Look/Feel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Identical to screen printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ideal For&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Higher quantities, where a repetition of one design is to be printed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ease of use&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Excellent, just order in transfers and then heat apply with a heat press for the specified time, temperature and pressure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Advantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Allows the user to create a screen printed look and feel with just a heat press.  Also will allow you to maintain a blank shirt inventory and apply transfers to size, style and color per order as opposed to the preprinted inventory that is associated with traditional screen printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – There is a turn time associated with your custom screen printed transfer order.  And if you decide to offer stock images, like many beach/boardwalk shops, you can potentially have a large transfer inventory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall Rating: A&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Inkjet/Laser Transfer Paper&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Paper that can be printed through a desktop inkjet printer or laser printer/copier, then heat applied to your garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Durability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Average to Above Average.  For the money, this is one of the best options and is easy to maintain.  Remember to wash the item in cold water, inside out for the first few washes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Look/Feel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – This varies with the brand of paper.  Light color paper is traditionally a softer feel than opaque or dark color paper.  Each has a bit of a plastic like feel to it, right off the bat.  The “box effect” will surround your design with most papers unless you trim around your design with scissors or a vinyl cutter.  We recommend only buying Heat Press Heroes transfer paper, which is designed for our presses to have the best quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ideal For&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Lower quantities and personalization, photo realistic prints where durability is not in high demand (ie. tourist destinations, mall kiosks, fairs, flea markets, family reunions, 1 time wear – promotional).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ease of use&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Average. When dealing with inks and transfer papers knowledge of color correction, dpi, drying time and proper application must be obtained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Advantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Quick, inexpensive photo quality prints can be created and transferred over to your garment in a matter of minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – This process is not the most durable over the long term.  Also in most cases the paper needs to be trimmed around with scissors or an optic eye cutter after being printed to eliminate having a box/window around your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall Rating – B+&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heat Transfer Vinyl&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Vinyl material that can be reverse cut on a vinyl cutter, then weeded and heat applied to a garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Durability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Excellent, when properly applied the heat transfer vinyl will outlast the life of the garment without cracking, peeling, or fading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Look/Feel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Ranges per material.  Some materials offer a very soft finish that is matte or dull, while other materials are thick and glossy on the garment.  Specialized materials such as flock have their own characteristics as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ideal For&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Lower quantities and personalization, used a lot for names and numbers on sports uniforms, some materials offer a real nice feel for use on fashionable apparel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ease of use&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Good, the general process involves cutting, weeding and then heating.  The most detailed portion of this process is weeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Advantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Excellent durability and a professional look, a garment can be created very quickly and the process can prove to be profitable on as little as one unique garment.  Can be heat applied virtually anywhere on the garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – No photo quality or color gradients can be achieved.  Doing more than 3 layered colors can become labor intensive.  Intricate detail can be labor intensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall Rating – A&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Digital Print/Cut Media&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Media that can be printed and cut out on a solvent based printer/cutter, and then weeded and heat applied to your garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Durability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Very Good, when properly applied some print/cut medias will outlast the life of the garment without cracking, peeling, or fading.  The concern with this process is the ink.  However, when printed with the right type of solvent-based inks the durability can last for a life cycle of a garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Look/Feel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Ranges per material.  Some materials offer a very soft finish that is matte or dull, while other materials are thick and glossy on the garment.  Specialized materials such as glitters have their own characteristics as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ideal For&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Lower quantities and personalization, used a lot for full color graphics, some materials can be applied to practically any type of fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ease of use&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Average, the general process involves printing, cutting, masking, weeding and then heating.  With proper training and the right equipment this process can be very easy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Advantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Very good durability and an extremely professional look, combines the durability of the heat transfer vinyl method with the photo-realism of a printer.  This process can offer an excellent solution for dark colored garments or tough to do fabrics, as well as basic t-shirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Cost of equipment and the learning curve (some machines do come with training).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall Rating – A+&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sublimation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A process that involves the printing of a design with special type of sublimation ink and then heat application to a “compatible” garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Durability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Excellent, this process will often outlast the garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Look/Feel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Excellent, the process involves the dyeing of fabric, so there is virtually no feel to the transferred image.  Very high photo quality results and detail can be achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ideal For&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Lower quantities and personalization, photo realistic prints where durability is in high demand.  Yields very professional results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ease of use&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Below Average, when dealing with inks, especially sublimation inks, knowledge of color correction, dpi, and proper application are critical.  The very nature of the aftermarket inks being loaded into the recommended Epson printer can create problems with clogging if strict instruction isn’t followed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Advantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Highly detailed, photo quality prints can be created and transferred over to your garment in a matter of minutes.  The feel and durability are second to none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; – Cost of inks.  The process of sublimation is also restricted to application onto light colored garments.  Another disadvantages is that these garments must be comprised of at least 65% polyester in content.  Blanks can often be hard to find and/or expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall Rating – B&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To view article on my website, &lt;a href=&quot;http://conceptdesignstudios.com/2010/12/14/durability-of-different-shirt-making-methods/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;click here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="431" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T18:17:56.360" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T18:17:56.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="675" CreationDate="2016-06-03T19:18:10.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would classify these images as &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line art&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With line art you will see clear lines defining forms and shapes, and sometimes where color and light would be, but the color and shading won't be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definition is enhanced in compositions such as the ones posted by varying the line weight and and stroke. The thicker lines make parts stand out, and also help define depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the line weights vary in these examples, they may have been drawn using some type of ink (presuming they weren't digitally produced). Pen and marker tips allow for more variation in line weight than a typical pencil, although it's possible to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/469/24https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/469/24&quot;&gt;sharpen a pencil&lt;/a&gt; in such away to allow for more variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Line art itself isn't going to be subject to less rules of composition than other 2D visual arts. An understanding of composition in general is going to be helpful, although outside the scope of this answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, certain techniques or media may be more helpful to practice with, if the end goal is this type of art: Drawing in general, inking or other practice to help with line weights, and making clean lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making clean lines can be achieved by learning how to use such tools as French curves, templates, stencils and compasses: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of some French curves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3Fvqm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3Fvqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T19:18:10.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2016-06-03T19:46:16.763" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would begin by constructing the form and mass of the head, as often seen in figure drawing construction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUhzkm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUhzkm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thxZom.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thxZom.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Images from Andrew Loomis's &quot;Drawing the Head and Hands&quot;. Loomis is a very well-known figure artist and illustrator with a variety of instructional books that are very helpful.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This construction, in drawing from the mind, is usually done by understanding some sort of system of proportions and then altering features to add character. Proportions would compare head height to width, or divide head height into sections to place features (seen in the images above), but it can get much more complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By understanding these general relationships of constructing a figure, you begin to see how real heads and faces compare and vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One popular method of achieving this development of form is called &lt;strong&gt;blocking-in&lt;/strong&gt;. You can see a quality example of &lt;a href=&quot;http://georgetownatelier.com/tutorials/introductory-tutorials/color-temperaturefigure-drawing-part-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blocking-in using the Atelier method&lt;/a&gt; at &lt;a href=&quot;http://georgetownatelier.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GeorgetownAtelier.com&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;sub&gt;Depiction of bust of bare derriere in spoiler block, from that website.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtBxQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtBxQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can start your base block-in similar to drawing an initial outline. But, instead of just focusing on the silhouette, think about the form in 3D. The outline will guide you on the proportions to use as you develop your other planes and shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then slowly add details, keeping your sketch light. You can measure placements of features, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where is the top arch of the eyebrow compare to the ears?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you draw a straight vertical line on the side of the nostril wing, how far is the corner of the eye? (Or vice-versa)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compared to the length of the nose, what's the distance between the tip of the nose to the bottom of the chin?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What degree of angle is it from the outside corner of the eye to the tip of the nose?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you draw a straight vertical line on corner of the mouth, how does it compare to the center of the eye?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are pretty limited examples. The key to getting an accurate portrait of a real person is by getting the proportions and placements correct for &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; anatomy. Since you can start with height or width, you can scale the other dimensions based on that, and then scale every other proportion on others you know you did &quot;right&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more you analyze the geometry, the more accurate you'll be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring this way can be done with classical techniques such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drawinghowtodraw.com/stepbystepdrawinglessons/2010/01/how-to-find-measurements-proportions-and-angles-to-draw-with-pencil-thumb-method/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;using your pencil as a measuring stick&lt;/a&gt;, which can also be aided by a &lt;a href=&quot;http://drawingacademy.com/use-of-plumb-line-in-drawing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plumb line&lt;/a&gt; for getting objective verticals. Or, if you working from a 2D source, such as a photo, you can take accurate measurements of distances and angles using rulers and protractors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T00:05:00.277" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T00:05:00.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-03T22:32:27.983" Score="7" ViewCount="2652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to paint acrylic sheet (Plexiglass) with acrylic paint.  Both the sheet and the paint are opaque (black or white); single color all over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What kinds of paint should I use? What kinds of paint should I avoid?&#xA;Are all acrylic paints created equal? My local home improvement store&#xA;carries acrylic paint, and they can make a variety of colors on the&#xA;spot; would that paint work?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How to prepare surface? Do I need to apply primer first?  If so, what&#xA;kind of primer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What can I use as varnish on top of the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put this question into perspective, painting is only the 1st stage of the process.  In the 2nd stage, I will burn off the paint with a laser.  So, if I've got black acrylic with white paint, and I ablate the paint selectively, then I will have black details on white background.  (This is not unlike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rowmark.com/laser/LaserMAX/lasermax.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LaserMax&lt;/a&gt; sheets.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to do the laser.  I don't know how to do the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:42:22.990" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T19:45:14.020" Title="Materials and procedures for painting acrylic (Plexiglass) sheet" Tags="|paint|plastic|surface-preparation|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-04T13:48:23.177" Score="2" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a arcade style joystick and I'm wanting a poster on the top panel to make it look good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do this bearing in mind it will get a lot of wear? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T19:52:17.357" Title="Fit poster to wood" Tags="|posters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-06-04T19:47:27.213" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2016-06-04T15:15:26.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lamination#Paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;laminate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; your sheets before framing them. This basically means encasing them in a very thin layer of transparent plastic film, which protects the paper from damage without reducing the visibility of the pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIapA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIapA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;demonstrative picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get this done quite cheaply at most stationery stores (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ryman.co.uk/laminate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;). Alternatively, if you think you might be doing a lot of lamination, you can buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.staples.co.uk/laminating-machines/cbs/427449.html?price=incvat&amp;amp;cm_mmc=SEM_PLA-_-google-_-serp-pla&amp;amp;mcode=SEM_PLA-google-serp-pla&amp;amp;gclid=CI330ezSjs0CFY4y0wodWDsEQQ&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a laminating machine&lt;/a&gt; - which is actually rather less expensive than I was expecting - to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend laminating rather than glass for framing ordinary paper, simply because it's so thin and glass seems like overkill. The plastic normally goes beyond the edges of the paper, so you have something to clip the frame onto without obscuring any of the painting. For how to secure the laminated poster to the frame, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/21348/what-kind-of-glue-can-i-use-to-attach-a-laminated-poster-to-a-wood-frame&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; on another Stack Exchange site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Catija &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/680/framing-a3-print/689#comment1035_689&quot;&gt;notes&lt;/a&gt;, this process is &lt;strong&gt;permanent&lt;/strong&gt;: you won't be able to unlaminate paper after you've laminated it. Something to bear in mind when deciding whether or not this is what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T15:22:34.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-04T19:40:26.670" Score="9" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a book which acquired mold damage / coloration after a storage mishap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under high magnification, it looks like the printed lettering is more raised (has structure / dimension) than the mold coloration. Based on this I do not think that abrasion can reliably remove the color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a bleaching process that I can try?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a specific kind of bleach that may work better here?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I tell if the paper has been coated in any way, which may alter my choice of treatment?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Images:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eMkge.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eMkge.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;around lettering&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUmZl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUmZl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;open area&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNX1s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNX1s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;orange-ing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hqdyL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hqdyL.png&quot; width=&quot;299&quot; alt=&quot;sol&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-05T12:52:51.273" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T19:48:12.500" Title="Correcting mold damage to paper" Tags="|paper|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="688" CreationDate="2016-06-04T19:52:17.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably want to think about two pieces of material: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The poster that you will print, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a clear protective layer over top of it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This protective layer may be printed or fused directly on top of the poster, or it may be a separate sheet which is mounted overtop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were going to mount it as an overlay without bonding it to the poster, then you will need to be sure that it is rigid and does not raise or move during play. I think that this is unlikely, and you Will need to fuse it altogether with a glue, but I wanted to mention the option.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to get the fusion of poster and protective layer is to have it printed by a professional service. They will have access to clear plastic / coatings which are bonded with heat or UV curing.  I.E. a process that you would spend more time and effort to source and execute on your own, vs. using a service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adhering the poster to the wood backing, be sure first to test your bonding agent by using some of the poster-material extra and spare wood from your main board.  Watch for bleed-though and other alterations.  To perform the best test, be sure to print your poster with a wide bleed area, and file the unused space with graphic overprints, so that you have complex images/color that will demonstrate possible damage from adhesives.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T19:52:17.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="692" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:25:51.430" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:25:51.430" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:25:51.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="693" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:25:51.430" Score="0" Body="For questions concerning methods to restore damaged or time-worn works and materials." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:25:51.430" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:25:51.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="694" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:27:04.547" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:27:04.547" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:27:04.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="695" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:27:04.547" Score="0" Body="For questions about the use of oil pastels, works made using oil pastels in part or whole, and general questions about oil pastels." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:27:04.547" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:27:04.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="696" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:37:54.357" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:37:54.357" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:37:54.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="697" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:37:54.357" Score="0" Body="For questions about sketching techniques and materials. Sketching is a type of drawing meant to be an unfinished work, whether for practice or making underlays for other works." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:37:54.357" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:37:54.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="698" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:44:15.360" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:44:15.360" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:44:15.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="699" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:44:15.360" Score="0" Body="For questions about working with acrylic glass such as the popular brand Plexiglass." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:44:15.360" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:44:15.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="700" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:46:56.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/graffiti&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;graffiti&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;graffiti&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T18:34:44.357" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T18:34:44.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="701" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-05T00:46:56.540" Score="0" Body="For questions about working with acrylic paint, whether in a current project or an existing work. Questions could be about techniques, mixing colors, cleaning it up, preserving it, and more." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T00:46:56.540" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T00:46:56.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1770" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:03:49.850" Score="7" ViewCount="4214" Body="&lt;p&gt;In school, I once made a subtractive sculpture from a plaster block. Actually, the block was in the shape of the large yogurt container it set up in (about 4 inches in diameter at the top, at least 4 inches tall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used knives and files to slowly make an abstract sculpture that I really loved, but the preparation for the plaster was done completely by the instructor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some searching on plaster, but the mixing information was generally about creating plaster to put on something else to create a mold. It wasn't about simply creating a piece to carve from. I'm not sure of search terms to use to narrow it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just mix the entire thing in the container I want to use for the block shape? Do I mix it in a larger container and then pour it into the final one? Do I add less water since I won't be pouring it over an object?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of what I'd like to be able to do again. Although my block started quite large, I made this quite small piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rE7CLm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rE7CLm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ipt26m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ipt26m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtmN7m.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtmN7m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Eternity by CreationEdge 2005&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T19:34:28.880" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T19:33:36.917" Title="What steps do I take to prepare a plaster block?" Tags="|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1693" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:11:37.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Arts &amp;amp; Crafts Stack Exchange&lt;/b&gt; is for artists and crafters, from professionals to hobbyists, who are interested in creating handmade, tangible works. It's built and run &lt;i&gt;by you&lt;/i&gt; as part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;Stack Exchange&lt;/a&gt; network of Q&amp;amp;A sites. With your help, we're working together to build a library of detailed answers to every question about traditional artwork and handmade items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T19:11:37.487" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:11:37.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1694" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:31:19.973" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T19:31:19.973" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:31:19.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1695" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:31:19.973" Score="0" Body="For questions about using pasta or noodles for crafts, such as gluing, dyeing or painting them." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T19:31:19.973" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:31:19.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1696" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:36:53.613" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T19:36:53.613" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:36:53.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1697" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-05T19:36:53.613" Score="0" Body="For questions about designing and creating costumes, whether it's for plays, special events, games or cosplay. Questions may be about techniques or materials to use for the intended effect or function of the costume." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T19:36:53.613" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T19:36:53.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="376" CreationDate="2016-06-06T03:58:59.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides using a &quot;cover slip&quot; (a piece of paper under your hand) and periodic hand washing, another simple technique that works amazingly well is to start at the upper left and work to the right and down (left handlers start in the upper right). This avoids the need to place your hand on completed parts of your drawing, and thereby prevents smudging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T03:58:59.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="648" CreationDate="2016-06-06T11:50:40.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The color set you have used is actually not suitable to produce such fine art on paper like the bird. Rather you would better understand if you take a look on the leaves (greenish bulgings),  the color has not been equally distributed. This happens when the pencil is pushed forward and backward with pressure and the nip of the pencil breaks in small portions. This happens with everyone, at least when they have just started their art. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now going back to your point. If you want to have darker arts with your current set of pencils here's a trick you can apply. Take two drops of water in a pallete or container. Take your pencil and use it as a brush. Just plunge it for 2 seconds on that drop and apply on paper. The first 2-3 shades will be darker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or for better results: try using darker shares of colors and merge it as it seems fit. Like with dark green you might apply brown or black there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or change your color pencil set. (&lt;strong&gt;not preferred if you are a novice&lt;/strong&gt;). Many pro people grab Staedtler/Maped/Copic. Although the first two color brands are available on medium range. The third one is definitely heavy on pocket. So if you can compromise with accuracy, you surely will get precise results with your current set of colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T12:42:02.583" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T12:42:02.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2016-06-06T15:43:26.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never tried to gild a phone case before, so take this with a grain of salt...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using the same methods you'd use for exterior gilding: prime the surface with several layers of primer, sanding in between; apply an exterior-grade gold size (also called &quot;oil size&quot; or &quot;solvent-based size&quot;); wait for the size to dry to the appropriate level of tackiness; apply the metal leaf; after a bit more drying, brush off any loose gold; after allowing the size to &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; cure (could take a week or more), apply a sealer to prevent tarnishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to go to such extremes (trying to buy oil size in quantities small enough for your purposes would probably be difficult), it might be sufficient to use primer + your existing gold adhesive (probably PVA-type) + leaf + varnish/sealer. For the primer, try to find a paint that's specifically meant for plastic: you want something that's guaranteed to stick to the plastic, and then your gold adhesive will stick to the paint (or at least it should), and then the metal leaf will stick to the gold adhesive, and then (after everything has cured as fully as it ever will, but before oxidation has set in) seal the metal leaf both to protect it from abrasion and to prevent tarnishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what specific steps you follow, you may end up with a phone case that's noticeably thicker than it was before. Make sure to mask off any areas that shouldn't get thicker, i.e. any prongs/thingamabobs that make the case stay on the phone, the inside of the case, the holes for the camera/power cord/headphones/switches and buttons, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other caveat is that, unlike IKEA furniture, your phone case is probably not flat. This means that you will be gilding around a curve, which is more difficult than just covering a rectangular flat area. You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; end up with gaps, and even after doing your best to fill them in, you'll see the seams, and some gaps will just be too small to fill but not small enough to be invisible. (This is where genuine gold leaf would make things easier: it will stick to itself, allowing you to fill in gaps totally invisibly.) Depending on the effect you want to achieve, choose your primer and/or adhesive color to either contrast with the gold (a red Armenian bole color is traditional for this) or blend in as much as possible (i.e. yellow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T15:43:26.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1728" CreationDate="2016-06-06T16:18:17.603" Score="9" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1c8z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1c8z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1699/96&quot;&gt;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1699/96&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rather you would better understand if you take a look on the leaves (greenish bulgings), the color has not been equally distributed. This happens when the pencil is pushed forward and backward with pressure and the nip of the pencil breaks in small portions. This happens with everyone, at least when they have just started their art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the way to fill areas with pencil colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I use Faber Castell's student grade pencil colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T10:39:25.930" Title="What are the preferred ways to fill areas with pencil colors in 2d drawings?" Tags="|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="687" CreationDate="2016-06-06T17:27:59.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the underlying panel will not flex, yes, you can use normal acrylic paints, but a primer is required, and the recommended method is to fine sand the plexiglass to a slight roughness, then cover with primer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic polymer varnish is ideally suited to varnishing over acrylic paint, and I'm pretty certain you can use other varnishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T17:27:59.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1708" CreationDate="2016-06-06T17:49:43.283" Score="5" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a metal bracelet with inlaid strips of wood approximately 0.5mm thick. Unfortunately I have lost one, so am planning to replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIE5tm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIE5tm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two challenges I have (aside from sourcing wood that matches - but that's a separate issue) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cutting the piece accurately - how can I transfer the shape to the wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gluing the piece securely - I have asked a &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/1706/358&quot;&gt;separate question&lt;/a&gt; regarding the glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T00:59:50.573" Title="How do I approach cutting a new marquetry inlay to fit the space in a metal bracelet" Tags="|woodworking|marquetry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="690" CreationDate="2016-06-06T17:57:23.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rather superficial &lt;a href=&quot;https://moldblogger.com/how-to-remove-mold-from-books/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog article&lt;/a&gt; on removing mold from books suggests a light bleach/water wipe, but a book conservator in the comments threads wrote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some notes from a book conservator, just hoping to avert any disasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleach, while it kills mold, contains chlorine which forms an acid and will damage the paper. It will remain in the paper and continue to damage it over time. Conservators never use chlorine bleach on books. Sunlight is the best thing, even though it may cause some bleaching. If the paper turns dark in the sun, it’s probably because it contains acidic materials, stains, lignin … many times the paper or printing will fade. Test a relatively unimportant page to see before doing the whole book. Alcohol and water are very dangerous for leather and may cause it to blacken, so test in an inconspicuous place. And while some people have had success with microwaving books to kill mold, other have totally destroyed the books and even started fires. Depends on what the book is made of. I would only nuke a book if I was willing to throw it out otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other hints you can glean across the interwebz include HEPA vacuuming, and wiping with alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. But the overall objective is first to isolate the moldy books from uncontaminated ones, then to dry them out and kill and remove the mold, or at least find some way to store the books hermetically so they don't contaminate the others.  Staining seems to be the least of anyone's concerns when it comes to moldy books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the gold lettering looks to have some form of metallic ink in it, I wouldn't recommend microwaving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T17:57:23.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1707" CreationDate="2016-06-06T18:34:30.737" Score="9" ViewCount="3813" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/1704/358&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; I'm needing to glue a wood veneer inlay into a metal bracelet, but don't know what type of glue to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a tube of Gorilla Glue, which I know is suitable for wood - should I source something else that can cope with wood and metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T03:47:24.653" Title="What type of glue will work well on wood and metal?" Tags="|adhesives|wood|metal|marquetry|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2016-06-06T19:19:46.877" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;2-part epoxy is my usual recommendation when it comes to mating different kinds of materials together. That is usually one of the selling points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would caution with the use of Gorilla Glue for this. While is might be a viable choice you need to be careful of its expansion properties. If you do try to use it make sure you clamp appropriately and clean any excess that seeps out. That is general advice for gluing in general but you really don't want warping in the final product here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of the veneer and how it is prepared there is a chance for small pockets to exist where the glue could expand. As long as you clamp firmly for the duration of the setting time you should be fine though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T19:19:46.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1704" CreationDate="2016-06-06T19:22:07.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that a great way to transfer the shape to the wood would be to use a rubbing to create an outline of the space which you can then cut out of the paper and transfer to the wood. This is sort of reminiscent of how Indiana Jones saved the instructions for finding the grail from the shield under the library:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KC4m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KC4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of rubbing from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use either a crayon or chalk or pastel or some similar flat-sided medium and a piece of thin paper like tracing paper or tissue paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the paper on the side of the bracelet where the opening is and hold it in place firmly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rub the crayon on its flat side along the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high points on the bracelet should be colored in and the relief area you're trying to fill with wood should stay either white or be much lighter in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've held it still enough, you should have the exact shape you need. At this point, you might want to make a copy or two of your rubbing so that you can cut it out of slightly thicker paper and preserve the rubbing so you don't have to redo it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut out the white area and test it to see if it's a good fit inside the space (it should be).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the cut-out as a pattern to trace onto your wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be certain to cut it out slightly larger than necessary so that you can allow for final shaping to be done as you're sanding after cutting out the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take your time, you should get an excellent fit out of your wood inlay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T19:22:07.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1704" CreationDate="2016-06-07T00:59:50.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't want to focus on creating the shape outline as &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1708/44&quot;&gt;Catija's answer&lt;/a&gt; is a very simple approach for something like this. If this was a little bit different then other options might be viable as well. Perhaps using Plasticine or silicone to create a mold of the void. It would allow you to trace around the mold you create and get a gauge on depth. Unless you plan on repeating this those options are not very efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cutting the veneer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When creating the veneer you have a couple of options. You could cut out the shape from an existing veneer piece or cut your shape from larger stock and slice the veneer off of that. If you are just cutting preexisting veneer a craft knife might be enough. Warning if you go that route to not attempt to cut all way though at once. The knife could catch and follow the grain potentially ruining the cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bandsaw would be a well rounded tool in either case. Using a fine tooth it will make easy work of the template and reduce the amount of sanding potentially required. Beware of the kerf when cutting your veneer. Cut outside the line you made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make your own veneer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have veneer or the veneer you have does not fit inside the void perfectly then you might have better luck cutting your own veneer (too large is fixable by sanding but too small is harder to recover from.). Use stock large enough so that you can maneuver around the bandsaw with your hand comfortably away from the blade. First, bring the fence ~0.5mm from the blade and push through. Consider making it a little thicker and sanding the face because I cannot tell from the photo if the wood is perfectly flat or contoured. With your new perfectly size veneer you can now cut it to shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Help prevent sanding an sizing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get cleaner cuts on your veneer when using power tools like the bandsaw you can always sandwich the veneer inside some sacrificial wood. This will reduce the tear-out on the veneer to nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pay attention to the direction of wood grain&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One major point about cutting your veneer is make sure the length of the shape you are making follows the grain of the wood. If you cut it against the grain is will weaken the wood making it easier to break in half. Notice the grain direction in one of the other partitions of the bracelet. You should cut the veneer the same. While it might be fine once set you will notice a difference if you are sanding it or maneuvering the veneer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZF7H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZF7Hm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Showing grain direction&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click image to enlarge&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T00:59:50.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T03:19:09.703" Score="10" ViewCount="2046" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens frequently. I make something like a scarf, my hook case or more recently my knight's helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any place that I have something like a 90 degree corner my work curls up. Not the end of the world, but it can ruin a good effect if it is needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am doing wrong that is making my corners curl up? Is there something I can do &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the fact to fix it? Looking this up mostly leads me to curling work on purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T07:38:00.127" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T18:14:39.017" Title="Why are the corners of my work curling?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2016-06-07T05:50:36.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I worked in a frame shop for several years and there are a few different ways to go about it, but some general guidelines...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want prints to be touching the glass.  You should either mat them, or make sure to request that the framer put in spacers.  Spacers are just little pieces of plastic that sit between the glass and the picture.  They are completely invisible in the finished product and you won't even know they're there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to use backing on top of the board behind the prints or want to use mats, make sure you only use acid-free or archival quality materials.  Things like regular paper mats will give the print's edges a yellowish tint and make the paper more brittle.  Any frame shop you go to should sell acid-free materials, even the cheaper chain ones like Michael's and Hobby Lobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV resistant glass is a good option.  Even if it's not in direct sunlight, if you really want to protect the prints (and have the option of moving them to other places in the future) it does help preserve the ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also steer clear of buying any premade frames.  They're typically made out of very cheap materials, most of which an actual frame shop would never even use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="448" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T05:50:36.853" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1701" CreationDate="2016-06-07T11:32:46.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would rather try to explain the answer with reference to my first mechanical engineering drawing (ME-191) class in university. The first day our teacher said if you have put your first mark on paper, starting from point A to point B,  &lt;strong&gt;Don't trace back from point B to A&lt;/strong&gt;, because not only it makes the thing untidy but the accuracy or in this case value of that line gets lost. Rather he said draw a line from point A to B again draw a line from point A to B. (however for mechanical drawing only one is correct). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest if it's a closed shape, like an oval, circle or square, take a side (in case of oval / circle, assume a chord distance) and maintain each stroke from one fixed direction to other (only point A to B &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; B to A) . Well yes, it will take little more time than what's required but the drawing will be neat and clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the actual answer to your question is it depends on the purpose for which you are using it, in case if you are sketching it for some rough work then it doesn't matter whether strokes are perfect or not, but if it's something for which cleanliness matters then definitely you can try the aforementioned method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T11:41:45.133" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T11:41:45.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1714" CreationDate="2016-06-07T12:31:10.473" Score="8" ViewCount="1184" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I travel, I like to walk around, collect some natural objects (shells, coconuts, leafs, etc.) and put them together to produce some kind of &quot;sculpture&quot;. I always have in mind that the object should be as much biodegradable and natural as possible. So, to stick stuff together I use some wax (it has also the big advantage that candles can be found more or less everywhere). However, it is difficult to get a neat result because 1) it isn't very strong and 2) it's hard to canalize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are alternative adhesives for such projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples made in India:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDciYm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDciYm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1EvmCm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1EvmCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9CFHim.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9CFHim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T11:58:53.920" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T11:58:53.920" Title="Biodegradable adhesives" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1713" CreationDate="2016-06-07T12:55:50.320" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking &quot;India&quot; into account, you could surely find jackfruit or mango tree. I would suggest you could use the white sticky latex of jackfruit/ green mango. While eating, I find extreme difficulty in removing the gum like plant excreta from hands,  I am sure it would work as a mantra as far as natural gum is concerned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, in Indian villages you could see loads of mud house decorated with cow dung. Natives throw the just released cow dung to the mud wall even half roasted bricks wall to dry them. So that later on, they could easily take it from there, break it and use it as fuel. As it has a sticky power, I believe it could easily stick with something. If you're joining two halves of coconut shell, use the just released cow dung and symmetrically spread it over the edge. Then simply put the other one over that and let it rest. It will work as a very natural adhesive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T13:39:12.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T13:39:12.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2016-06-07T13:08:01.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that you have too much tension on the corners. Make sure not to pull your stitches too tight when you are turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible this is just the natural pull of the material, and you aren't necessarily doing anything wrong. This is fairly common in knitting, but no reason it couldn't happen with crochet stitches too. The process of reshaping a finished article is called &lt;strong&gt;blocking&lt;/strong&gt;. There are a few standard techniques you could try, depending on what type of yarn you used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;natural fibers&lt;/strong&gt;, the basic idea is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet the piece&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stretch and shape to the desired size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air dry (optionally while pinned to a blocking board; a cheap and common substitute is foam floor squares, like those used for play mats)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of wetting and drying will lock the fibers into place, similarly to felting. There are three main ways to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wet blocking is done by completely soaking the piece. Then, lay it on a towel and roll it up, squeezing out the excess water. After the water is wrung out, shape the article and let dry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Steam blocking is done by placing a wet washcloth over the (dry) item, and ironing over top of it while gently shaping the article.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spray blocking wets the article by spraying with room-temperature water, rather than soaking or steaming.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever you choose, you will have to re-block the item after washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acrylic yarn&lt;/strong&gt; doesn't work with wet or spray blocking, since the fibers don't absorb water. Instead, you can use heat to melt the fibers enough to stay in place. There are two ways to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steam blocking with a low setting, and pressing with up and down motions rather than side-to-side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Ironing&quot; from a few inches away - &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; place the iron directly on the yarn, it will melt!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always err on the side of caution! The extreme is to &quot;kill&quot; the yarn - melting it so much that it loses elasticity and cannot be frogged. Sometimes this is done on purpose, as the resulting material has a nice sheen and drape. If you want to do this, steam block with a higher setting until it achieves the desired properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blocking acrylic with heat is permanent, and it will keep its shape after washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2016-12-09T13:46:33.270" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T13:46:33.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1718" CreationDate="2016-06-07T13:28:20.747" Score="3" ViewCount="7140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently finished a cross-stitch for a gift, and would like to frame it in a way that will preserve it reasonably well. I was under time constraints to present it to the recipient and there was only one frame the right size, so it's currently sandwiched between two panes of glass. However, I have a cross stitch from my grandmother in a matted frame with no glass which seems to have held up well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is glass or no glass preferred for framing cross-stitches? What else should I consider for preservation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T06:36:41.337" Title="How to frame a cross-stitch?" Tags="|framing|cross-stitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2016-06-07T13:53:41.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Derwent also has a blender pencil, but they also have blender pens. &#xA;They don't smell like alchoholic based pens and the are very good at blending. They're also not very expensive. I paid 7 euros for two 2 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="450" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T13:53:41.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1716" CreationDate="2016-06-07T13:58:45.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend leaving your cross stitched projects sandwiched between glass. This compresses/flattens the stitches which can make them look odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the piece to a reputable framing shop is probably the best idea unless you make a lot of projects and want to learn how to do it yourself or if the project is relatively small. A good shop should know how to properly block the cloth to keep it square but check with them to be certain they have experience with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps for framing yourself are generally laid out in an article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/framing-cross-stitch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and a similar one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artecy.com/framing-cross-stitch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The basic process is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare the piece&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash the piece to remove oils - be careful of running colors, particularly if you didn't prewash the thread.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iron to remove wrinkles - from the back, on soft cloth to prevent flattening stitches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount the piece. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block it onto an acid-free foam core board using straight pins, keeping some tension as you go around to keep the piece flat - use the lines of the fabric to help keep things straight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fold the edges around the back of the foam and secure with pins or stitching.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, they simply recommend putting it in a frame either with or without glass... but I strongly encourage you to go a couple of steps further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend glass as it will prevent incidental dust and oils from getting on the piece. You just spent hours making it - protect it! The glass (if you get UV glass), can prevent the piece from fading, which is very important as the dyes used may not all fade at the same rates. Reds are well known to fade more quickly than other colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend adding at least one matting layer to put some space between the work and the glass, again, to prevent the stitches from being flattened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T13:58:45.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1716" CreationDate="2016-06-08T06:36:41.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take it to a frame shop, they'll basically do what Catija has posted.  However, there are two things I would like to add.  The first being that it's not a good idea to just tack it to the board, those could become loose, another option is 'sewing' the piece.  You don't actually sew it to the board, but rather pin it around the board and then sew the edges to themselves around the board.  The other tutorial touches this, but if you're interested in seeing it, steps 6 and 7 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Frame-a-Cross-Stitch/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt; will show you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other point I'd like to add is that if you use a mat, make sure it's acid free, paper mats can damage fabric just as they can prints.  If you want glass but don't want a mat, you can also use spacers instead which are invisible in the finished product, but will leave enough breathing room between the glass and the artwork so as to prevent damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="448" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T06:36:41.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2016-06-08T07:14:44.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibilities for blending depend on the extent and/or stylistic appearance of the blending you want to achieve. You can blend mechanically by using readily available tools that are small and lightweight: &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your fingers, bare or wrapped with a small cloth or tissue, are always with you.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blending stumps or tortillions allow more precise blending than with your fingers.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A kneaded eraser also allows more precision blending as well as a way to pick up media, creating highlights. They are extremely effective when using graphite pencils/powder and with charcoal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can utilize Impressionist techniques of laying down various colors that then blend in the eye and brain of the observer. Georges Seurat and his pointillism technique are good examples of that. An oldie but a goodie.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never be afraid to experiment - you can do so before you leave to increase your confidence. Also don't forget to experiment with various types of papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some links that illustrate and explain the use of these blending tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rapidfireart.com/2015/05/08/detailed-guide-how-to-use-a-blending-stump/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blending stumps and tortillions.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rapidfireart.com/2015/05/14/what-is-a-kneaded-eraser-and-how-do-you-use-one/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kneaded erasers.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'll enjoy sketching your way around the globe:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The materials are lighter, less bulky, and more rugged than carrying an expensive camera and lenses.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Others will be interested in what you are doing: this is an excellent way to meet new people and exchange information with them.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You never have to worry about locking your materials in a safe when you leave your room, like you would a camera.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your materials are lost, they are relatively quick and inexpensive to replace.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can remove completed drawings from a sketchbook and mail them home as you go along. They will then be immune to theft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have many good trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastEditorUserId="456" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T11:44:57.017" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T11:44:57.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1725" CreationDate="2016-06-08T08:35:58.390" Score="6" ViewCount="3704" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are good paints for painting on (thin) nylon fabrics?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to paint an umbrella so there are some additional constraints. The paint should:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be &lt;em&gt;waterproof&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep the &lt;em&gt;flexibility&lt;/em&gt; of the nylon fabric (i.e. it should at least still be possible to close the umbrella).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T14:29:01.127" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T18:06:02.757" Title="What paints could I use on nylon fabric?" Tags="|paint|plastic|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2016-06-08T09:31:15.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, for prints, I'd recommend clip frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKpLb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKpLb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They look neat, don't draw attention away from the piece, they are easy to use (you can easily do the framing yourself), easy to clean/maintain, and they are quite inexpensive. They don't offer exceptional protection, but if these are just decorative prints, and not some expensive art pieces you want to pass as heritage to your descendants, the lifetime of ~20 years should be aplenty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either go with ones that match the print size exactly, or somewhat bigger ones - in that case add a layer of white or colored paper as a mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T09:31:15.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="675" CreationDate="2016-06-08T11:07:41.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A basic foundation in compositional concepts will apply to all types of art, from scrape-booking to sculpture and architecture. It would seem to be especially valuable when a drawing has so many elements as these do. Without compositional aides, a drawing could become a confusing visual blur or a flat pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decide what elements you want to focus on - the main idea. There can also be secondary foci, so that your eye moves across a drawing. In the lower drawing, with the birds and butterflies, romanticized flight/wings seem to be the theme here. The top butterfly and bird seem to be &lt;strong&gt;focal point&lt;/strong&gt;s along with the bottom butterfly. The groupings &lt;strong&gt;balance&lt;/strong&gt; each other, giving weight and focus to both the top and bottom of the drawing, in spite of the fancifully airy nature of the drawing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Techniques that add dimensional depth are clearly seen here. &lt;strong&gt;Perspective&lt;/strong&gt; makes it appear as though the elements are spiraling downwards away from us and disappearing towards the center of the page. Perspective is summoned in several ways: overlapping, line weight, and the paleness of the more &quot;distant&quot; objects. When objects &lt;strong&gt;overlap&lt;/strong&gt;, even in a drawing, our brains interpret the partially blocked objects as being behind the others and therefore, farther away. For example, on the outer edge of the drawing, rhododendron-like flowers overlap the vines. This makes the flowers pop towards us while in the center, one bird overlaps another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The line weights vary across the drawing. Darker lines do two things here - they denote object boundaries in space and denote atmospheric perspective. Where a line marks the &lt;strong&gt;boundary between an object and open space&lt;/strong&gt;, it's darker, like in the body outline of the upper right bird. Lines on the bird's body that relate detail, but are not free-standing in space, were given a lighter weight, as in the feathers. When you observe a panoramic landscape, you see that the lines (and colors) that are closer to you have more weight and vibrancy, while as space recedes, the lines and colors become less vibrant, more pale, and more greyed-out. This is called &lt;strong&gt;atmospheric perspective&lt;/strong&gt;. Compare the heavy lies of those rhododendron-like flowers that pop out towards us with the soft, thin lines of the terminal tip of the vine at the center of the drawing. That tip fades into the distance, contributing to an impression of depth in the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proportion&lt;/strong&gt; also aides the impression of depth. Unfortunately, it's less obvious here. Two similar objects (species of bird, flower, or butterfly) should be about the same size unless one is &quot;farther away&quot; to it's twin. The only object that really does that here is the spiraling vine. Along the outer edge of the drawing, the vines are drawn with more line weight showing the boundary between solid and space, that they are closer to us than the terminal tip in the center is, and the diameter of those vines are proportionally thicker at the outer edge than those tender terminals that seem farther away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link provides a brief discussion of common compositional concepts: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/the-design-elements-of-composing-a-drawing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Drawing for Dummies&quot;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T11:07:41.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1713" CreationDate="2016-06-08T13:06:59.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;PVA Glues&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you read PVA glues (usually what you see as white or yellow glues) are considered biodegradable. Elmer's is mentioned in this conversation but I didn't find anything official from the manufacturer claiming it as biodegradable. It should break down in water but PVA glue is based on a synthetic petroleum based polymer so likely this isn't &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what your going for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Animal/Hide Glue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[S]hould be as much biodegradable and &lt;strong&gt;natural&lt;/strong&gt; as possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choice of words leads me to believe you are looking for something else anyway so I would like to introduce you to hide/animal glue. The names are considered synonyms where this glue is concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hide glue is an adhesive made out of the connective tissues, bones and hides of animals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of the earliest known glues in existence. Today it is predominately used in wood working but does have other applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In France, there is proof the Neanderthal used glue in their paint so that the cave paintings were protected somewhat from moisture. Animal glues from things like horse teeth can be dated back 6000 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nordicneedle.net/guides/stitching-materials-guides/glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nordicneedle.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note all hide glues are the same. There are hot and liquid versions and many individual variations sold commercially. I am speaking more of the &lt;strong&gt;hot glues&lt;/strong&gt; that are sold as pellets and you have to melt them before use (Some liquids are mixed with other substances. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lddavis.com/glue-products/hide-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Not all are except from your criteria though&lt;/a&gt;). Hide glue has a good set of features and some drawbacks depending on how your application&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number one being that it is non-toxic. It is a forgiving glue as you can reheat it once it has set to move or adjust what you are making or repairing in some cases. Since it is made from animal proprieties it is biodegradable. Its sets rather quickly which can be both a pro and a con. One major draw back is that it is water soluble and affected by humidity so this is &lt;em&gt;not for outdoor use&lt;/em&gt; which may be a draw back here given your pictures. Some also have an off putting odor but that can be very subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hide glues is a rather engrossing subject and we are only glazing the surface here but I thought it was good enough to at least suggest. You can read more about its use in wood working (mostly to understand the process) you can read more at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leevalley.com/US/newsletters/Woodworking/4/6/article2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LeeValley&lt;/a&gt;. There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lddavis.com/glue-products/hide-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer that praises itself on its eco-friendly hide glues.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T14:18:25.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1721" CreationDate="2016-06-08T13:32:35.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have specific experience painting nylon fabric, but as a starting place for you, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dharmatrading.com/techniques/silkpaint/silk-painting-for-beginners.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dharma Trading Company&lt;/a&gt; has a tutorial for painting and/or dying silk that may apply to your project. They sell several lines of fabric paints and dyes. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/categories/fabricdecoration/#silkpainting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dick Blick&lt;/a&gt; has silk/fabric paints and dyes. There are videos on YouTube for painting fabrics. Go to the manufacturer's home pages to check for compatibility with nylon and don't hesitate to ask for their suggestions. Be aware that many fabric paints require being setting with heat, like an iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, consider going that retro route and using painted and/or dyed silk. It can be exquisitely beautiful. Waxed or oiled silk, lacquered papers, leather, feathers, and palm leaves have all been used by various cultures over time for their umbrellas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="456" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T13:32:35.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-08T18:13:20.233" Score="9" ViewCount="1425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a number of pants and shorts that I'd love to be able to carry my phone in, especially a couple of running shorts. But, they were (inconsiderately!) designed with no pockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of too-small pockets, I've sometimes modified the garment to enlarge the pocket by cutting the inside and adding more fabric. But how should I go about adding a pocket if there's no pre-existing opening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to have a pocket approximately the dimensions of a smartphone, and wouldn't put anything heavier than the smartphone (and maybe one car key) in it. There's no liner, just one layer of fabric (spandex) with a hem at the side of the legs. The waistband is a separate piece sewn on top, not a fold-and-sewn waistband.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T23:10:20.567" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T23:10:20.567" Title="How can I add an internal pocket to pants that don't have one?" Tags="|sewing|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1701" CreationDate="2016-06-08T19:33:17.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recommended method of filling in space with colored pencils is by using small circular strokes. This way, the color is applied evenly and with minimal gaps or streaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Demietra's method will be effective in quickly filling in spaces, ideal for a sketch or other rough work, but it will leave streaks that you may not want in your final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T19:33:17.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1701" CreationDate="2016-06-09T07:28:08.123" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the OP of this thread. Following is what I tried again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the color pencils are same, but the drawing sheet is different (145 GSM) and the technique is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time instead of drawing any kind of back and forth line, I started drawing extremely small circles, joined together and overlapping each other tightly, with the color pencils. These circles were drawn like the text of cursive handwriting where we do not pick up hand from the paper till the word is complete and all the alphabets are joined to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was done with an extreme light hand. Virtually zero pressure applied.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then I repeated the procedure on the same area with the same color 4 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5th time, I applied pressure, and the 6th time I applied heavier pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the following &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;smooth&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; coloring is the result of 6 layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken this photo with a macro lens so you can see the tooth of paper also. The light in the room was dim, hence the dark photo, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though the colors are still the same student grade, but the results are different and stunning. I believe if I use a high quality paper with better tooth, I will be able to apply more color which may result in darker coloring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xqrov.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xqrov.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T10:39:25.930" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T10:39:25.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T13:15:51.950" Score="2" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to participate in a painting competition and I want to blend the light and dark blue to make the sky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What blending options do I have with colored pencils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user462" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T13:28:19.937" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T13:28:19.937" Title="What are my options to blend to pencil colors?" Tags="|colored-pencils|blending|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-06-10T04:07:34.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1731" CreationDate="2016-06-09T13:21:53.803" Score="19" ViewCount="10593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intend to draw nested circles for a Mandala drawing. When the compass point is placed on the paper, it creates a tiny hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I keep the point from damaging the paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T09:32:20.300" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T16:35:32.210" Title="How to prevent the paper from getting damaged due to a steel compass?" Tags="|paper|preservation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1730" CreationDate="2016-06-09T13:47:57.180" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to rest the point of the compass onto some other object first i.e. one that won't damage the paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some sort of disc&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A felt or rubber disc comes to mind. Something thin with enough friction so that the point and disc won't move about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also just take a cut of eraser and jab it on the point as well. This has a small disadvantage of erasing while you rotate but could have it place in your techniques. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a product called a center disc that also serves this purpose. It has the added bonus of being transparent allowing you to center the point on its target &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; not damage the paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jh93dm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jh93dm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;center disc&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://art-design-glossary.musabi.ac.jp/compass/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;art-design-glossary.musabi.ac.jp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear plastic has the added advantage of letting you see your work and centering your circle easier. So using a sufficiently thick plastic and cutting some small shapes would work just as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do make your own practice with them first to be sure the compass does not penetrate it as well. Or enough that it makes the plastic stick out as a point either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Consider a different tool&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tangential answer to your question would be to use a plastic flat compass that bypasses this issue completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v75SJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v75SJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Protractor compass&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Safe-T-46110-mmArc-Protractor-Compass/dp/B00GBG7GKE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;amazon.ca&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This protractor compass has many holes littered along its length. You just need to grab your drawing implement of choice and insert it into the desired hole. Then rotate around like a normal compass.  Pressure from your opposite hand (as seen in the photo from the users left hand) will ensure the tool remains rotating from a fixed point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the below zoomed in image of the above tool. You will notice the measurement markings which denotes the precise nature of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rW9zH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rW9zHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;zoomed in compass protractor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click image to enlarge&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T11:40:51.820" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T11:40:51.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T19:17:05.703" Score="6" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a small saddle stitched booklet. The concept involves a relatively hard-ish, see-through cover. The first time around I used 36 pages of 120gsm offset paper in a single booklet. I simply folded a sheet of polypropylene and sewed everything together. This way the finished product doesn't stay completely closed/flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I could execute this that would result in a more elegant product; one that stays closed? I'm thinking something where I sew the pages together, then make and/or attach the harder cover somehow differently. How might I accomplish my goal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="467" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T19:57:54.207" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T20:33:45.110" Title="What is a good technique for binding a saddle stitch booklet with a hard-ish cover?" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T22:59:43.757" Score="5" ViewCount="2334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm terrible at using my supplies in a timely manner (maybe a couple years late... sometimes more, sometimes less), so my polymer clay (generally Sculpey III or Super Sculpey) get a bit dried out, even though it's sealed in original packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to get it back to being workable? I tried mineral oil once, but couldn't find a ratio that was effective. I ended up with very sticky clay, or clay that was virtually unchanged. I've used both hands and pasta rollers to try and do this, but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's something else I could use as an additive, or a certain way I should try mixing it in? Is there a good ratio of additive (such as oil) to clay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T01:34:00.563" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T20:36:56.790" Title="How can I reconstitute old polymer clay?" Tags="|polymer-clay|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1740" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:04:39.983" Score="6" ViewCount="7100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen many sculpting tutorials and recordings of works where the artist uses aluminum wire for the armature, with aluminum foil used where bulk is needed for the form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as a beginner, aluminum wire is too expensive for me to essentially waste on practice projects. I've tried steel wire, but the thicker gauges are practically unworkable. Almost every hobby and craft store I've been to only sells aluminum wire in the floral section, at very high prices per foot, and online stores sell much more than I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a cheaper alternative aluminum? It doesn't need to be as flexible, but sturdy enough to hold the clay and be safe in the oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T21:22:45.083" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T21:22:45.083" Title="Is there a cheaper alternative to aluminum wire for armatures?" Tags="|metalworking|metal|sculpting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1741" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:20:14.707" Score="6" ViewCount="5820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have drinking straws like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ip7gJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ip7gJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are thicker, reusable straws, probably PVC. They're the thickness you generally find in tumblers that come with their own straw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it'd be neat and cute to cut them down and make a fun panflute for my kids!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cut needs to be clean, without breaking, splitting or damaging the rest of the straw (which rules out my bolt cutters). I not only need to cut them to size, but also make the holes where the air comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be purely decorative, and given to children, so it needs to have no sharp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T00:23:42.650" Title="How can I cleanly cut thick plastic straws?" Tags="|cutting|plastic|pvc|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:32:04.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did not tried it but that's how I would proceed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the cut:&lt;/strong&gt;  (to make a pan flute)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solution 1: My guess is that cutting the straw with a heated knife will be very messy and gives a bad result. So I'd simply use a serrated knife. Something like this one:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfDBOm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfDBOm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;and saw the straw with it. Pay attention to really use the sawing part of the knife (this is why the teeth are important), i.e. don't press the knife too firmly against the straw to make sure that you don't break it. You can then smooth the edges of your cut again by using some kind of heating process. In this case, I would even consider having a very hot surface and then simply press (as vertically as possible) the end points of your straw on the surface. Ideally, you have a pencil ready to put it in the straw when the plastic is soft and make sure that the hole is not obstructed by the plastic. &#xA;I'm pretty sure this should work well. In fact, you could also use this knife to get third type of holes in straw (my guess is that different holes will lead to different sounds).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solution 2: This is based on a surprising experiment I made one evening by pure interest. And actually you could consider merging some ideas of this solution with Solution 1. The experiment was easy, take a plastic glass fill it with water and try to make a whole in the glass with a lighter to empty some water: impossible. The plastic above the water will melt exactly until the water level is reached and afterward, no way to go further... (maybe with a blowtorch it could work but this is not the goal here). Moreover, the melted plastic tends to curl outside the glass and does clearly not go where the water is. So you can use this phenomenon at your advantage: Indeed you could stuck one side of the straw (with a chewing gum or something similar), fill it with water at the level you wish and melt the remaining part. If you have to melt 2/3 of your straw this will eventually be long and smoky (and this are the kind of smokes your lungs really want to avoid). So, I would consider first cutting the main part with a knife and then make the last 3-5 millimeters in this way in order to get a very smooth result.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the holes:&lt;/strong&gt;    (to make a regular flute)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Actually I misread the question at first (and forgot about the &quot;pan&quot; part of your flute), so these solutions can be useful if you want to build a regular flute with several holes in the same straw (which IMO could also be an interesting option to consider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Solution 1: Consider a tool like this one (an awl):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDOkem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDOkem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold the extremity above a candle and then make your hole. The heat should (locally) soften the plastic and make a relatively neat hole. Just pay attention to retain your move in order to avoid piercing both sides of the straw :). Note that you could also put something in the straw to stop the awl on the midway. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Solution 2: Another way could be to use sand paper rolled. I would wrap a pencil with sandpaper and use it to make the whole. The advantage is that the whole will be even more clean however you'll get a kind of ellipsoidal hole (which might change the sound of your instrument) and you can certainly not make as small holes as with Solution 1. Another relatively small drawback is that this is very sand paper consuming. Indeed, my experience, is that when rubbing with sandpaper, the plastic will melt a bit on your sandpaper which makes it quickly unusable (but at least sandpaper is quite cheap). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Solution 3: Use the same knife as in the first part of this answer and cut some &quot;V&quot;'s in your straw, something like that (cut along the red lines):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WOiMB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WOiMB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you will get a third type of holes. The problem however (as well as the solution with sandpaper but even worst) is that the different holes will likely be different from each other, so unless you have some other tools to make sure that the cut will be exactly at 45° and not pass the half of the straw, I would avoid this solution.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T15:58:39.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T15:58:39.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1730" CreationDate="2016-06-10T06:53:48.113" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a subject of engineering drawing before and that is my problem also!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What works for me is to use a plastic cover, the transparent one that you commonly used to cover your books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it is transparent you can still clearly see the pointer of your compass while adding an extra layer of protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I go to school I cut many small pieces of it and stick it to the container of my compass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="470" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T06:53:48.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1735" CreationDate="2016-06-10T10:14:44.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of alternatives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, cheap and cheerful, use metal clothes hangers (normally given free from the dry cleaners). However, this would only offer you a limited range of gauges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, pop down to your local DIY/Garden Centre. They will have a large selection of fencing &amp;amp; plant growth materials. You will find all sorts of wire used for fixing trellises, plant growth leads, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final alternative is to strip out the copper conductor from old electrical cable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make sure that the cable is disconnected from any electrical source&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will provide you with a selection of gauges depending on the conductor size. However, once you get above 4mm you find that the conductors aren't solid but in strands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the above, the local DIY/Garden Centre will yield the best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T10:14:44.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2016-06-10T13:52:54.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting, if you feel like taking a trip to your local hardware store, that they make specialty blades that fit boxcutters. Some of these are designed for laminate.&#xA;Most likely, the blades that came in your boxcutter are ok for opening boxes, plastic packagine etc. However, you can buy some designed for cutting laminate, PVC, etc. Look for blades that are thicker and may have a wavy pattern on the edge. These can be especially helpful in working with plastics. The sharper the blade, the less force needed to cut/saw. Like in the kitchen, this is safer than a dull knife that needs lots of force (that ends up slipping into your thumb - Ouch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, rather than &quot;homebrew&quot; a solution, for under $10 you should be able to find a cutoff wheel for your dremel made for plastic. They often are serrated, and may have holes through the wheel that lighten in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are super helpful and will give a great, square cut (often without burrs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch out for any sharp edges if these will be near a child's mouth. A good wash in soap and water should take care of any residual dust. Those would not be &quot;Good Eats&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:52:54.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1746" CreationDate="2016-06-10T14:49:29.817" Score="7" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this art?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What key words could I google to find similar results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Photos credit: The Mesh app on the Apple store )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IndtUm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IndtUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Still from &amp;quot;The Mesh&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlKlpm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlKlpm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Still from &amp;quot;The Mesh&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="473" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T20:23:42.597" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T09:43:40.237" Title="What is the name of this 3D object creation technique?" Tags="|technique-identification|style-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1789" CreationDate="2016-06-10T15:44:58.610" Score="10" ViewCount="22750" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the &quot;correct&quot;, or &lt;strong&gt;most effective way of cleaning a paper tortillon?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up the now, I have been using sand paper to clean the tip, however this often makes the tortillon rugged and lose its point, and in some cases causes it to unravel completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a more effective way of doing this &lt;strong&gt;whilst keeping the stump's point intact?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T16:18:41.483" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T14:45:00.950" Title="How can I clean a tortillon/blending stump and still keep its point intact?" Tags="|maintenance|blending-stump|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1745" CreationDate="2016-06-10T18:13:31.283" Score="12" ViewCount="6553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like my oldest (about 3 1/2 years old right now) to carve something, because of the fun I had with my &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/1692/what-steps-do-i-take-to-prepare-a-plaster-block&quot;&gt;plaster carving&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most carving requires sharp knives and firm materials that are difficult to cut through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like an alternative that is soft enough to work with using just plastic tools (which I may make myself or repurpose from other tools), but not soft like Playdough or modeling clay. That is, I want it to be able to keep its shape during and after carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kid-safe aspect of this is being able to avoid sharp metal objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything out there that would work for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T19:32:24.027" Title="Is there a kid-safe carving material?" Tags="|material-selection|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1744" CreationDate="2016-06-10T19:57:37.280" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are more interested in &lt;em&gt;subtractive sculpting&lt;/em&gt; (removing material rather than adding it like clay), I spent my earliest sculpting days carving &lt;strong&gt;bars of Ivory soap.&lt;/strong&gt; There may be softer brands, but you know Ivory soap is 99-44/100% pure &amp;lt;grin&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KpdF2.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Soap-Carving&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to Make a Soap Carving&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sharp knife is not necessary. Plastic knives, spoons, or Popsicle sticks could also work. But I suggest investing in &lt;strong&gt;a modest set of clay sculpting tools made of wood&lt;/strong&gt; (less than US$5.00). They are tough enough to stand up to the soap without having a tendency to snap like plastic knives or Popsicle sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQZ0S.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product Search:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=clay+sculpting+wood+tools&amp;amp;tbm=shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood Sculpting Tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastEditorUserId="2" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T20:01:30.797" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T20:01:30.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2016-06-10T22:06:00.750" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a relatively new trend in graphical design which is known as &lt;em&gt;low poly design&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;low polygon design&lt;/em&gt;. If you google &amp;quot;low poly design&amp;quot; you'll find plenty of tutorials on how to produce such pictures by yourself (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.digitalartsonline.co.uk/tutorials/adobe-illustrator/create-low-poly-portrait-photoshop-illustrator/#6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;). In (very) short, you take a picture, triangulate it and generates the polygons out of your the induced mesh. Clearly, this is all done by computer. (Somewhat this remembers me of the painting style named &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cubism&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T20:22:53.897" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T20:22:53.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1744" CreationDate="2016-06-11T00:07:20.460" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son, at that age, was crazy for floral foam. It's not especially cheap, but it carves very nicely and can be done with very safe tools like plastic cutlery for picnics. I forget how it was that we had enough for him to indulge his whims with it for a while, but if you can find a cheap supply, it could do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;See the warning below: apparently, floral foam is toxic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastEditorUserId="478" LastEditDate="2017-01-10T19:32:24.027" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T19:32:24.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1744" CreationDate="2016-06-11T00:28:08.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plasticine or molding clay&lt;/strong&gt; would be a great material for something like this. They are not expensive and either would compliment nicely with the wood tools that &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1745/44&quot;&gt;Robert Cartaino suggests&lt;/a&gt; as well. If cared for properly you should be able to put it all away and use it again given that it is a forgiving medium (Assuming you don't want to keep the treasures!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playdoh &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; work as well but the above materials hold there shapes better and would be easier to carve with proper carving tools. In a pinch this would work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loops tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get into other sculpting tools like clean-out or loop tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqMQHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqMQHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Loop tools&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rednebulastudios.com/?page=tools-sculpting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rednebulastudios.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to mention those specifically because, even though purchasing them might be costly, there design is rather simple. You can find tutorials on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEupanJ2Ato&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to make your own&lt;/a&gt;. Here is a link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpfp9_UH97g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another that makes some simple hand sculpting tools&lt;/a&gt;. Kids could find it rather satisfying to carve out chunks to then use in other locations (destruction can be fun!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other tools to consider&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the following video contains a nice introduction of some basic sculpting tools including the loop tool previously mentioned. You could likely find household substitutes for some of these. At least the ones you want your children using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZnF8DjIq_E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/FZnF8DjIq_E/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pottery Tool Kit Demo on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tools are more geared towards sculpting but some of the same techniques will apply to carving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T03:39:27.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2016-06-11T02:29:22.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the images you provided are most likely computer-generated or digital paintings, there is a traditional craft that can achieve similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some papercrafting models use a similar concept of simplifying objects into geometric planes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fubiz.net/2015/01/09/papercraft-animal-figurines/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fubiz.net has a wide variety of examples:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/urH1P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/urH1P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mc32z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mc32z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes this type of papercraft is specifically called a paper model, distinguishing it from other crafts such as origami. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The designs for them may even be done using digital software to start. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Certain programs&lt;/a&gt; allow you to convert a 3D model into directions/steps for making a tangible paper model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best search terms to get results like these are &lt;code&gt;papercraft model&lt;/code&gt; or more specific things like &lt;code&gt;papercraft animals&lt;/code&gt;. You can find images, and also templates/instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you search &lt;code&gt;3D papercraft&lt;/code&gt;, you may get even more results in your style. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.feeldesain.com/paper-craft-animals-paperwolf.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article about artist Wolfram Kampffmeyer’s&lt;/a&gt;, including some of his beautiful creations, which are actually made from cardboard. Perhaps my favorite, and one closest to your images, is this wonderful red fox:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/icvfp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/icvfp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T02:29:22.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1765" CreationDate="2016-06-11T07:39:20.753" Score="12" ViewCount="34090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building sets and props for an outdoor performance. We must use recycled materials as much as possible, and will thus use cardboard a lot since it is readily available. We plan on painting or sticking on some decor to build the props, where they will then be mounted on frames/sticks to stand or to be puppetted by stagehands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the performance is outdoors, the pieces will inevitably face the perils of water (tropical climate; high humidity and precipitation) repeatedly due to rehearsals and accidents. I am concerned about the cardboard pieces falling apart from water damage. Most of the cardboard is 1-ply, if that is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you cost-effectively waterproof large pieces of cardboard with paint on them and protect them from getting soggy?&lt;/strong&gt; They will be on the order of 0.25 to 16 m^2 in surface area per piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="408" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T19:42:00.873" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T23:58:58.140" Title="What is an easy way to waterproof large pieces of cardboard?" Tags="|preservation|paint|cardboard|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-11T12:37:18.933" Score="12" ViewCount="1828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once saw on TV a type of craft work that used the shapes and colours of leaves arranged carefully in between folded white canvas cloth and beaten with a small hammer. The result was a beautiful copy of the leaf, showing the intricate detail of the veins. Not to mention the colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall on the TV programme that it was some type of Japanese art/craft but I cannot remember the name. Does anyone know of this type of hand craft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would like to find out more about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="480" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-10-07T15:44:53.980" LastActivityDate="2020-10-07T19:18:42.760" Title="What is the name of Japanese printing which uses hammered leaves on white cloth?" Tags="|technique-identification|printing|fabric|hammered-leaf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1751" CreationDate="2016-06-11T14:46:29.157" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a hammered leaf print, or sometimes called a transfer. Flowers are also used. The Japanese name for this art is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://kindlingplayandtraining.blogspot.com/2011/10/hapa-zome-beating-up-leaves-with.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;hapa zome&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. It's categorized as a type of dyeing process, and &lt;em&gt;hapa zome&lt;/em&gt; roughly translates to &quot;leaf dye&quot; (according to the Internet. I don't know any Japanese).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique is similar to the classic &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nature_printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;nature printing&lt;/a&gt;, which uses a roller to press the leaf into the plate receiving the transfer. For hammering, you are applying the pressure much more manually, and aren't creating an engraving that's used make additional copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a cheap way to do this on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Hammered-leaf-and-flower-prints/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables&lt;/a&gt;. Here is a picture of such are done on watercolor paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5xIJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5xIJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hammered leaf art&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T16:36:42.643" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T16:36:42.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-11T20:27:34.823" Score="6" ViewCount="3702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a macrame belt, so I need pretty long threads for my project. How can I handle those, without them getting tangled?&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already tried two different things:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just leave them as they are, and treat the project carefully. The amount of tangled threads is workable, but it takes about forever to form a knot and pull the whole thread through it.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use 'knitting fishes' to wind the threads: &lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErUUy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErUUym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Knitting fishes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;This way the project won't get completely tangled, but you constantly need to push/pull a rather large thing through each knot. Not convenient either.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make working with those long threads easier? I'm looking for answers that include either better tools or techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2017-04-14T13:51:15.683" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T13:51:15.683" Title="Is there a good technique or tool to keep long macrame threads from getting tangled?" Tags="|knots|string|macrame|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1726" CreationDate="2016-06-11T20:50:57.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could sew a passepoil pocket (I don't know if there is a more common way to call it in English), and maybe use a zipper to close it. If there is a seam at the side, you might want to use that as the location for the pocket.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Anyways, for instructions (in Dutch, but with a lot of pictures) you can check &lt;a href=&quot;http://fromfabrictofashion.nl/diy-de-paspelzak/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://fromfabrictofashion.nl/diy-de-paspelzak/&lt;/a&gt; . If anybody knows an English site, please feel free to edit!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Basically it's about sewing a rectangle to the right side of the fabric, then cut through both layers of fabric, and pull the rectangle through the hole. You can attach the pocket to that rectangle. Or, if you make the rectangle large enough, that could already be the pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T20:50:57.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1755" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-12T14:37:59.270" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T14:37:59.270" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T14:37:59.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1756" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-12T14:37:59.270" Score="0" Body="For questions about the selection, use and characteristics of cardboard in arts and crafts." OwnerUserId="408" LastEditorUserId="408" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T17:06:21.150" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T17:06:21.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T00:14:06.340" Score="9" ViewCount="2852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning how to draw, and I'm trying to find the name of my favorite style so I can find more resources about it. The style is reasonably minimalistic, using only the necessary detail to make recognizable portraits (as opposed to hyperrealism) and largely ignoring physical flaws in a way that basically makes anyone attractive. However, the eyes and other areas are allowed additional detail to make the subject as attractive as possible. It's sort of an extension on sketching with relatively little shading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you name the style, and maybe even provide some resources for working on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few examples, the first one by far the closest to what I'm looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUbFP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUbFP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Girl facing left&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QP2pn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QP2pn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Girl facing camera&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbOxf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbOxf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="486" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T09:32:41.370" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T09:32:41.370" Title="What's the term for the opposite drawing style to hyperrealism?" Tags="|drawing|portrait-drawing|sketching|style-identification|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2016-06-13T03:25:26.923" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are simply portrait &lt;em&gt;sketches&lt;/em&gt;. There's not, to the best of my knowledge, a specific term for the technique other than &quot;sketching&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sketching doesn't just mean an unfinished work, a doodle, or lack of detail. I think this phrasing from &lt;a href=&quot;http://painting.about.com/od/artglossarys/g/defsketch.htm&quot;&gt;Painting.About.Com&lt;/a&gt; defines it well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A sketch is painting or drawing &lt;strong&gt;capturing the essence of an object or scene&lt;/strong&gt;, giving an idea or outline of it or simply a part thereof. How quickly or slowly a sketch is completed depends on the individual artist. Some work very quickly and roughly, others slowly and in great detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in these portraits, capture the eyes and certain features is just part of getting that essence of the person. Eyes are a very defining facial feature, and they're very humanizing and expressive. Adding detail to them is an easy way to make the drawing &quot;pop&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three examples you've given are distinctly different personal styles. As you seen in the top, it's more defined by outlines, hatching and cross-hatching.  The second works more with fluid lines and varying tones. The last one is kept very loose, using &quot;scribbles&quot; and high-energy lines that go outside of the bounds for the hair, contrasted with well-defined edges and hatching for the face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't really consider any of these the &lt;em&gt;opposite&lt;/em&gt; of hyperrealism, either. You can go much further away from that, such as gesture drawing and cartooning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a specific term for this, I've never heard anyone use it. This is the type of art I'm most interested in, so I've seen a lot of it and followed artists for years with no mention. I've also not heard anything used in any art class or tutorial I've taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At most, I think you'll be able to break down some individual techniques or concepts, somewhat like I did a couple paragraphs ago. If you're particularly focused on the beauty aspect of them, you may think of them as fashion, beauty or glamour portraits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As a side note, the first one you've listed is actually the &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; detailed of the three, which is especially obvious if you look at the lips, but there's many more details than that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T03:25:26.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2016-06-13T04:35:36.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In architecture school, we termed it freehand sketching - i.e., no drawing tools other than the pencil are permitted.  We practiced by drawing while looking at the subject(s), and NOT looking at the paper, to practice improving the hand-eye coordination.  We learned that it is important to know what is important to be able to be left out, to give a particular impression or emphasis, or intentional lack of emphasis, that the viewer's imagination fills in. often a mere hint of shadow in the nose area gives a person the sense of the nose, with almost no detail at all.  Subtle differences in line weight with different pressures are also important.  There's a lot of art in this kind of sketching, and the presentation of light and shadow can gives a real sense of three dimensional form to a simple 2-D drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T04:35:36.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1762" CreationDate="2016-06-13T09:21:31.490" Score="5" ViewCount="3550" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since water will have to be applied on the colored area, the color will not remain too bright unless the pigment is high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it so? If yes, then do water color pencils have richer pigments as compared to their dry counterparts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does it mean that dry coloring with water color pencils will be brighter than the coloring of normal color pencils?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, then does it make sense to use water color pencils instead of normal color pencils for dry coloring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20090302203128/https://www.faber-castell.in/35235/Products/PlayingLearning/Colour-Pencils/default_news.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.faber-castell.in/35235/Products/PlayingLearning/Colour-Pencils/default_news.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I use the color pencils with the parrot on the cover, currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Not referring to the artist grade colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-11T19:08:41.197" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T19:08:41.197" Title="Does it make sense to use water color pencils instead of normal color pencils for dry coloring?" Tags="|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:24:25.007" Score="3" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://bottlecrafters.com/collections/bottle-lamps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, they propose some &quot;bottle-lamps&quot;, e.g. this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aCSnpm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aCSnpm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I like the idea and would like to reproduce something similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the product can be improved by painting the bottle. So here's my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are paints with following properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It &lt;em&gt;sticks on glass&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;translucent&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, note that the LEDs will produce a bit of heat inside the bottle, so this might be taken in consideration. But I guess this will not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SIDE-NOTE: I think this can be done by &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/105/what-is-a-good-technique-for-drilling-holes-in-glass-bottles&quot;&gt;drilling a whole in the bottle&lt;/a&gt; and then simply fill the bottle with some LEDs guirlande. A workaround to avoid drilling, would be to turn the bottle upside down and make a kind of plinth to hold it. Then one can use the normal whole of the bottle to fill it with LEDs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T12:31:04.210" Title="What paints can I use on glass?" Tags="|paint|medium-selection|glass|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-06-13T12:32:26.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:46:54.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Student vs professional is usually a difference in pigment and pigment amounts, the binders are typically the same. So, from that respect, I wouldn't expect a lot of difference in the important aspect of their behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, watercolor pencils are designed to be used dry on dry or as a wet medium, so there's no inherent reason not to use them for dry coloring, they just have different characteristics versus more traditional colored pencil medium and you can learn to take advantage of those just as easily. This is true in &quot;normal&quot; options as well, the behavior of wax-based is different that oil-based, and you can use that to your advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of getting brighter, this is also true of wax/oil pencils when blended with a blender. You're dissolving the binder, leaving behind the pigment, and that usually results in a brighter look. Binder differences can result in a difference of brightness dry, but that doesn't necessarily mean the pigments are richer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference, in my still limited observation working with Polychromos and Albrecht Dürer pencils, is that the watercolors blend together much, much, easier and I need far less layering to achieve coverage once I activate with water. In fact, for a single color, one is generally enough. It's a different look though, as it's not opaque, but that's the fun part of watercolors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, sure, you can use the watercolor pencils for dry coloring. Just remember that if you want to use them wet, the paper matters. Normal dry paper is probably not going to hold up that well to applying water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T10:46:54.643" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2016-06-13T12:40:21.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first two examples I would define as &lt;em&gt;portrait sketches&lt;/em&gt;. And I would gauge that they are to be finished pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third example I would describe as a &lt;em&gt;preliminary sketch&lt;/em&gt; possibly with &lt;em&gt;pushed values&lt;/em&gt;. The reasoning stems from the lack of care around boundaries and the heavy contrast between shading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pushed Values&lt;/strong&gt;: build a preliminary piece from black and white values to help create shape and depth for the final piece&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;See this previous answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/629/what-does-it-mean-to-push-your-values&quot;&gt;push your values&lt;/a&gt; for further detail &amp;amp; links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be a counter argument against the &lt;em&gt;pushed values&lt;/em&gt;, due to the detail around eyes, lips, and nose. But as these are normally the aspects of a portrait that have the highest detail, getting the shading right requires the greater focus, and therefore there greater care in a preliminary sketch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T16:03:19.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1766" CreationDate="2016-06-13T13:06:16.843" Score="6" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/263/do-i-need-a-non-photo-blue-pencil-for-scanning-drawings?rq=1&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about non-photo blue pencils, it is implied that non-photo blue pencil marks will not show up when scanning, or photographing, art pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, could I just use any blue pencil, or does it have to be a specific shade, or does it have to be a 'special' pencil specifically for that job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T14:23:40.563" Title="What is a non-photo blue pencil?" Tags="|colored-pencils|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1750" CreationDate="2016-06-13T13:14:50.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Waterproof paint for the flat parts, tape for the edges.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any kind of spreadable waterproof fluid will do for the large faces of the cardboard sheets. &lt;strong&gt;Paint&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;glue&lt;/strong&gt; could both work, but paint is probably more cost-effective. There are many types of waterproof paint (acrylic, enamel, anything listed as exterior-grade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The edges will be harder to deal with using paint. Even if you managed to paint the edge itself successfully, water could still trickle down the corrugated part to the inner parts where your paintbrush couldn't reach and destroy the cardboard from the inside out. But the edges can be covered using waterproof &lt;strong&gt;tape&lt;/strong&gt;. Duct tape would be best for strength and durability, but if you don't want it to be visible and spoil the image of your painted props, you could use a strong clear tape instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-make-cardboard-waterproof&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Quora article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are various ways you could seal cardboard but basically you'll have to cover &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; part of it that would ever come in contact with water or even humidity, and do that &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; and without even tiny gaps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So you could seal it with waterproof (or at least water-resistant) liquids, or with waterproof tapes (duct tape, clear packing tape, etc), or by using something like shrink-wrap plastic or other solid but flexible plastics, or with flexible metals like aluminum foil, or even just by enclosing it inside a waterproof acrylic or glass display box or dome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most water&quot;proof&quot; liquids would be permanent paints (acrylics, latex, enamels) or clear finishes like polyurethane and epoxy resins and even less waterproof ones like thinned-down PVA glues** and acrylic mediums, etc.&#xA;  (Many other pasty, etc, materials that are thicker or not intended as finishes/paints could work too but they wouldn't usually be as smooth or thin.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;** aka permanent white glues, craft glues, etc --Elmer's GlueAll is most commonly used or book binding glue-- and &quot;decoupage mediums&quot; like Mod Podge which are already thinned down white glues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T13:14:50.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1764" CreationDate="2016-06-13T13:32:41.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It has to be a particular shade of blue.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-photo_blue&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, it is apparent that non-photo blue refers to a particular colour rather than a particular kind of pencil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Non-photo blue is a particular shade of blue that cannot be detected by graphic arts camera film. This allows layout editors to write notes to the printer on the print flat (the image that is to be photographed and sent to print) which will not show in the final form. It also allows artists to lay down sketch lines without the need to erase after inking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the code for this colour under various systems (also taken from Wikipedia):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hex triplet&lt;/em&gt;:    #A4DDED&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;sRGB&lt;/em&gt;:   (164, 221, 237)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;HSV&lt;/em&gt;:    (193°, 67%, 79%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's the colour itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0drmwm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0drmwm.png&quot; alt=&quot;non-photo blue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T13:32:41.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T13:42:09.297" Score="5" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make rounded corners. Unfortunately, the only ones available in my country punch additional patterns besides rounding the corner. I purchased a punch that has the following result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JhUGum.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JhUGum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cut out template&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxFlj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxFljm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hearts are solid pieces of metal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D47eu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D47eum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I modify this to make a regular corner punch? Or how might I bypass the heart feature in another way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="467" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T15:06:11.560" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T15:06:11.560" Title="How can I make a regular corner punch from a fancy one?" Tags="|cutting|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1767" CreationDate="2016-06-13T14:25:20.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are just trying to remove the hearts feature, or any feature for that matter, from the punch then you would have more luck &lt;strong&gt;disassembling the punch and cutting off those portions&lt;/strong&gt;. I don't know how your particular one comes apart but some are designed to be reassembled. Consider the following one where you are able to remove the cutter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8xml.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8xml.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could do now is use a hacksaw or rotary tools to remove the areas that you do not need. Vises or clamps can help keep the cutter stationary while you are cutting. Be safe and use eye protection when doing metal work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might risk small indentations from the heart recesses but I don't think, if it does happen, that it will be significant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could just use a rotary tool while the cutter is depressed but that would be more difficult and would damage the surface of the punch as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T14:25:20.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1713" CreationDate="2016-06-13T14:27:08.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.survival-manual.com/pine-pitch-glue.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resins obtained from pine trees&lt;/a&gt; etc can be effective adhesives. There are many recipes but most involve heating to melt the resin and adding powdered charcoal to stabilise it. Waxes, fats and solvents can also be added to modify its properties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also lots of natural gums and resins with various different properties which have at various times been used as adhesives, binders etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another variation is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;shellac&lt;/a&gt; which is reasonably widely available. Again it can be compounded with powders and waxes to various plastic-like materials and can be dissolved in alcohol to make a varnish or sealant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned natural latex is a fairly effective adhesive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T14:27:08.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1692" CreationDate="2016-06-13T14:47:44.617" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to bear in mind is that different grades of plaster have different properties. They can broadly be divided into (harder) alpha plasters and (softer) beta plasters. Obviously for carving there is a compromise between how easy it will be to work and how strong the finished article will be. A softer plaster will obviously be easier to carve but a harder one will allow you to create finer detail and be stronger overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there is also a large rage of specific formulations in between hard and soft. Specifically &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tomps.com/herculite-2-casting-plaster-1kg-to-25kg-bags-herculite-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Herculite&lt;/a&gt; may be a good compromise for carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to use the correct ratio of water  to plaster, follow the manufacturers instructions and take the time to measure out the quantities accurately.  You can also get various polymer additives which strengthen the plaster further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that mixing even quite small quantities of plaster can be a messy business. It's not especially hazardous, but as with any fine dust avoid breathing it in too much and prolonged exposure can dry out your skin a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a good idea to keep a bucket of water handy for washing utensils as plaster is an excellent way to block a sink. Rubber mixing bowls can easily be cleaned by knocking the plaster out, rigid containers are much harder to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sieve the plaster before you mix it that will help to prevent any lumps in the mix. It's usually easiest to mix moderate quantities by hand as this allows you to feel any lumps, wear rubber gloves if you wish. Hand mixing also tends to introduce less air. Make sure that your mixing bowl is thoroughly clean, any traces of set plaster in the mix can cause lumps and hard spots in your casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably best to mix it in a separate container from  the one you mould it in as you will get a neater mould. Try to make up the correct amount as pouring a new batch onto setting plaster can cause problems. Once the mould is poured and before it sets gentry tap it a few times to help release any bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to colour the plaster it's usually best to colour the water with a water soluble dye or pigment before you mix it, if you want to obtain an even colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as casting into a mould you can let the plaster set a bit and then mould it by hand like clay. A few minutes after mixing it goes from a fluid to something a bit like soft cheese. At this point it will hold a shape reasonably well and can be formed into shapes without needing a mould. You do need to work quickly as you will only have a few minutes before it sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-03-09T19:33:36.917" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T19:33:36.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2016-06-13T18:07:02.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hat has a very open structure, so, to fix a hole invisibly is hard/impossible, as you need to weave in material where it's missing, but then you got a double amount of material at the edge of the hole.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, since you 'just' want to make it look nice, you could&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reweave the hat (with either straw, wool, or any other material of thead) about as thick as the original material. It's obviously a lot of work and you loose the open structure. But you don't have to reweave the complete hat, you could skip the rim, or any other parts without holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stitch/embroider a ribbon along the edge of the crown, using whip stitch (If you don't know this stitch, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://nl.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Sew+a+Whip+Stitch/21025&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://nl.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Sew+a+Whip+Stitch/21025&lt;/a&gt;) Make the stitches large, and be sure to cover the hole with the ribbon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick a flower in the hole, and attach it in a creative way. :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T18:07:02.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1744" CreationDate="2016-06-15T08:17:29.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1745/30&quot;&gt;the answer of Robert Cartaino&lt;/a&gt; is probably the best, I think that another alternative could be candle carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/PIAimages/72865_PE189116_S5.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j9Imam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;white candles, via Ikea&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the &lt;em&gt;loop tools&lt;/em&gt; proposed by @Matt, that are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.candlesandsupplies.net/Candle-Making/Carving-Tools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;apparently&lt;/a&gt; also used to carve candles, I would consider using different types metallic spoons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.papstar-products.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hXt1h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oneida.com/media/catalog/product/2/2/2273sfr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBlDo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.fr/itm/3-Cuilleres-a-soupe-CHRISTOFLE-Style-L-Philippe-ou-vieux-Paris-met-argente-/260998997282&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhq7Mm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can use &lt;em&gt;both sides&lt;/em&gt; of the spoon, and although they are metallic, they are definitely not sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like the pedagogic side of using &quot;homebrewed tools&quot; instead of &quot;professional tools&quot; because:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This will push the creativity of the kid. My experience is: the less you have, the more creative you have to be to get the desired result.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will improve their dexterity. If they can do something nice with a spoon, imagine what they will be able to do with an additional simple knife. Moreover, I'm sure they will have a huge pleasure in discovering the new possibilities offered by new tools later on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T11:14:07.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1735" CreationDate="2016-06-15T08:41:25.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I asked a Tinsmith friend and he suggested the followings:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iron wire: it is cheap and has the big advantage that it can be fold at the same place several times without breaking. So you can reuse it.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chicken Wire:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B0182BTZKO?psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vkfWem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This solution might be particularly interesting for you as it allows to make some more complicated complicated structures and, it is also cheap (I guess because they are massively produced). You can also consider variation of this idea with a different mesh shape or different thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T16:28:53.093" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T16:28:53.093" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2016-06-15T12:35:26.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to work with cord that spans the length of your entire project&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a couple of options that depend on what aesthetic you are trying to achieve and what you are willing to accept as far as look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Adding cord with knots&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a family of knots used to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.free-macrame-patterns.com/adding-cords.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;add in new cords to your project&lt;/a&gt;. Mostly suggested as a means of adding more colours or something like a handle. Regardless this is to show that you can make changes on the fly. Something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.free-macrame-patterns.com/linked-overhand-knots.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fisherman's knot&lt;/a&gt; you could use to start and stop cords.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6R5d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6R5d.png&quot; alt=&quot;fisherman's knot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.free-macrame-patterns.com/adding-cords.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linked page above&lt;/a&gt; you will see many other knots. I only showcased the fisherman's as I am familiar with it as far as connecting two cords goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Beads&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only issue with adding cords is that you still have to hide the ends. None of the knots I found that are used in this way were accompanied with end hiding instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand beads are used for flair. However you could easily hide ends inside the beads as well. If you tie a bead close enough to neighboring knots the bead will not be able to slide around. Then you can hide cord ends inside the bead(s). Gluing it inside the bead could also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Splice your ends&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better solution would be to &lt;a href=&quot;https://thisyearsdozen.wordpress.com/2009/09/24/how-to-extend-add-on-macrame-cord-ends/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;splice your ends&lt;/a&gt;. You can do this with either sewing thread or, preferably, strands of the cords you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If sewing: pin the cords ends with their butts facing each other to prevent them from moving and get proper alignment when completed. Get the first few stitches in, for stability, and remove the pins so you can finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/owElG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/owElG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thread sewn ends&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's same principle using the cord in the project. Pull out a strand and use that to bind the cord ends. Since you are using the same material you can hide the connection easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbpkN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbpkN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cord sewn ends&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case you should stagger the cuts so that they don't all stop at the same point. This will help with the overall strength. Also, it will be easier to hide individual splices inside other larger knots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T20:10:36.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="105" CreationDate="2016-06-15T15:50:51.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Always wear safety glasses!&lt;/strong&gt; (It's a good idea with any drilling, but especially when drilling through glass.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specialty &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/projects/woodworking-and-crafts/drill-bits-buying-guide/article&quot;&gt;bits&lt;/a&gt; made for drilling through glass that can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Glass-and-Tile-Drill-Bit-Set-4-Piece-GT2000/202242753&quot;&gt;found at most hardware stores&lt;/a&gt;. A standard drill will work fine. &lt;strong&gt;Don't use a hammer drill!&lt;/strong&gt; Keep your drill speed low (if it is variable) especially if you wind up using a diamond bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate the hole. Otherwise, you will probably crack your work piece through thermal stress. There are specialty oils sold as a glass drilling lubricant, but WD-40 works just fine and is easy to apply (with the included straw applicator). I've never used water, but I'm told it can work, too. Whatever lubricant you use, make sure you don't get it on your drill. Don't overapply it, but replace what runs off/evaporates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting a piece of tape over your starting point can help keep your bit from sliding out of place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are done, let the piece &lt;strong&gt;thoroughly cool&lt;/strong&gt; before cleaning it or it can crack. Even if it feels cool to the touch, it might still be enough of a rapid temperature change to cause a crack. (Cleaning will remove small bits of glass and whatever lubricant you used - so it's a good idea.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T15:50:51.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1784" CreationDate="2016-06-15T16:03:36.287" Score="9" ViewCount="27116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited a painting from a relative. It has some cracks so I assume it's oil, not acrylic or watercolor. I also do not know the age, but it is not new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought a frame to fit it (since it didn't have one), the frame came with a pane of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I damage the painting if I place it in the frame behind the glass? (Because I already did. &lt;em&gt;It's been there for a couple of years&lt;/em&gt;.) If so, what can I do to mitigate the damage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no visible damage to the painting, I'm just concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="443" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T10:10:34.723" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T20:00:57.463" Title="Will putting an oil painting under glass cause damage?" Tags="|preservation|oil-paint|framing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2016-06-15T20:40:10.930" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tortillons and stumps are pretty much disposable items. I never clean then (although I admit I don't use them often anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T20:40:10.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2016-06-15T22:33:37.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the painted surface is not in contact with the glass you should be OK. But why leave the glass in, can't you just take it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC most of the oils in the Hermitage are under glass - makes them difficult to view properly, but I assume they know what they are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T22:33:37.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1786" CreationDate="2016-06-16T01:01:00.140" Score="7" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing OverWatch and saw these guys in an arcade box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y8fhP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y8fhP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Turnip looking things&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started making the green and white parts. What my wife now calls the cute turnip. I am going to use felt for the facial features. Here is what I have so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSfGJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSfGJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crocheted turnip thing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering a large swatch of white for the face and affix the black eyes and mouth on top of that. The white would take up a large contoured surface. Even if I get talked out of doing it this way it would be nice to know what my options are. Gluing comes to mind but there is not a good gluing surface behind it for a good bond. Sewing has a similar issue with not enough to sew into. Ideally I would like to hid how it is attached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help me make my silly turnip thing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T15:43:55.057" Title="What are my options when trying to adhere felt to a 3D crocheted surface?" Tags="|yarn|felt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="259" CreationDate="2016-06-16T03:45:24.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good results using plain white craft glue diluted 50/50 with water.  'White school glue', 'white glue', 'PVA glue' etc. should all be chemically similar and will be grouped together in a craft shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make up a little bowl of it and dip your finished snowflake in. Get it properly soaked in the solution, and then gently squeeze it out a bit. After that, pin it flat, stretched into shape, on a cork-board or something similar, and leave it for a day or two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once its dry, it should be quite rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="501" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T01:46:20.307" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T01:46:20.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1790" CreationDate="2016-06-16T04:07:54.153" Score="9" ViewCount="2558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've taken art classes in high/middle school where I did a couple of grid drawings and I've even done a couple on my own. I also had an art class in college last semester and everyone there loved my grid drawings and said they were highly detailed or had a photographic quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know though if it actually helps, as I'm not sure if it's helping me improve on drawing from imagination. I want to try figure drawing and do concept and anime art, but my skills in that field are like a 50/50 hit or miss and I want to get into more dynamic poses that look good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would using grid drawing to draw people and poses help me achieve these goals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="502" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T01:44:15.547" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T01:44:15.547" Title="Does grid drawing help with drawing from imagination?" Tags="|drawing|sketching|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2016-06-16T07:10:19.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, oil paintings actually take years to fully dry. It is a good idea to avoid glass on an oil painting the first few years of it's life for that reason. Beyond that, it's perfectly fine to use glass. It does not harm the artwork. However, no matter what you're framing, you should never allow the glass to touch the artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikihow actually has a good guide for framing oil paintings with store bought frames: &lt;a href=&quot;http://m.wikihow.com/Frame-an-Oil-Painting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://m.wikihow.com/Frame-an-Oil-Painting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="448" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T07:10:19.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2016-06-16T07:23:00.143" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the Painting isn’t recently painted, within 6-12 months, then there isn’t a general consensus and the answer is: It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the delay after the painting is finished is that it can take this long for the painting to fully 'dry'. In your case, this isn't a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest threats to your oil painting is the environment: dust, air pollution, UV rays, smoke, pet hair, kids with crayons, red wine splashes. The list is endless. Canvas is porous and if left open to room air, it actually acts like a filter for that air, absorbing chemical and particulate pollution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conservationregister.com/PIcon-careoilpainting.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;British Conservation Register&lt;/a&gt; on cleaning without glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dust can be removed using a very soft brush with metal elements protected so that they cannot be a cause of damage. Avoid feather dusters, sheep skin dusters, however soft, as they catch. You must be careful to check that there is no paint flaking before dusting. Do not attempt any dusting if the surface appears unstable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an example of flaking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNvws.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNvws.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of flaking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further examples of flaking can be found on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paintingconservationstudio.co.uk/images/flaking-paint.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Painting Conservation Studio&lt;/a&gt; website, from where the above image came.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is much easier to clean the glass or acrylic than to pay for an expert conservator to restore your painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to keep the glass, make sure that the glass is spaced so it does not touch the artwork. A professional picture framer can advise you in this regard, as well as recommend a quality UV protecting glass that will preserve the clarity of the painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further advice from the British Conservation Register on cleaning the glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Always spray glass cleaner onto the cloth, not the glass. Spray well away from your painting. The use of backboards is recommended as a preventive conservation measure to protect against the accumulation of dust and dirt, as well as against knocks and accidental damage. A conservator can fit backboards to your paintings for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When deciding what to do, ask yourself these questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this canvas artwork hold great sentimental value to me?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I keeping the artwork to enjoy for a long time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I eventually want to resell the artwork?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is yes to any of these questions, and the work is older than 1 year, then keeping glass will probably be a good long term choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T09:56:13.480" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T09:56:13.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1835" CreationDate="2016-06-16T07:46:41.640" Score="9" ViewCount="51038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have now built up a small portfolio of pencil/charcoal drawings. Most of the time they are kept in my folders, but sometimes they are viewed by friends and relatives. And on the odd occasion displayed at the local community hall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've started to notice finger marks and tiny smudges on the artwork. As none of pieces are permanently displayed I don't want to frame them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way of preserving and protecting my pencil/charcoal art without having to put them behind glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my friends said that you could use hairspray? Is that the right way to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T19:04:24.657" Title="How can I protect my pencil &amp; charcoal drawings once complete?" Tags="|drawing|preservation|pencils|charcoal|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1780" CreationDate="2016-06-16T07:58:00.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like a perfect use case for &lt;strong&gt;needle felting&lt;/strong&gt;. Instead of using ready-made sheets of felt, use the loose fibers of rowing or batting to create the felted face right on the spot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of practise you can achieve colour effects similar to painting by layering and mixing different colours, like the blushing cheeks in your turnips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions abound on the net. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.feltalive.com/links.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Felt Alive's&lt;/a&gt; seems pretty exhaustive, covering many aspects and with ambitious projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lilblueboo.com/2012/02/basic-needle-felting-a-tutorial.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LilBlueBoo.com&lt;/a&gt; shows how to make a face on a base and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/12/needle-felting-for-beginners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craftsy.com&lt;/a&gt; has an image on a knit base, similar to your project:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5g9G2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5g9G2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Butterfly felted on mittens&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T15:39:16.063" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T15:39:16.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2016-06-16T09:03:00.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hairspray definitely works, but I'm not sure whether or not it will yellow over time. You can also buy fixative spray that is artist's quality and presumably tested for its pH and other qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T01:48:22.083" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T01:48:22.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1782" CreationDate="2016-06-16T09:10:15.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best way I know is just making a cross on both the original and lightly on the paper you will be drawing onto. That stops you getting too technical, and forces you to look at spaces and shapes, which is what drawing is really about. If you start in the middle (for example) and work outwards, copying SHAPES, without trying to identify them as e.g. &quot;nose&quot;, &quot;eye&quot; etc, you find that you will get a better likeness. You can do that with photos, but it's not really possible to draw from life like that. The practice should help you start to see like an artist, which side of the Brain, its great, but you have to DO it, not just read about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="504" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T09:34:19.620" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T09:34:19.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2016-06-16T16:35:31.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using sandpaper and then tidying up with craft knife is the generally accepted way of cleaning tortillon. However, it's possible that you might be using sandpaper with a low grit level (under 120) for too long. This would be almost ripping the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start with a 100 grit sandpaper to get rid of the graphite\charcoal staining, then use a craft knife to clean up the really rough bits and shape. Finally I use a 180 grit, or greater, sandpaper to smooth out. I find it much easier to have the sandpaper on the work surface and move the tortillon on the sandpaper. It provides much better control and helps maintain the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A really good tip is to get yourself a pack of double sided emery boards (nail file boards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNBa0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNBa0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Double Sided Emery Boards&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get boards with 100 grit on one side &amp;amp; 180 grit on the other in most pharmacies, supermarkets, and online shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T18:10:00.800" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T18:10:00.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1782" CreationDate="2016-06-16T23:44:06.880" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the main benefit of grid drawing is the accuracy it lets you achieve, but it also helps train your eye to see what's actually there, as opposed to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apophenia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;what your brain thinks is there&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you analyze the contents of each individual square, you're forced to focus more on the lines and spaces that make up the subject. It helps guides you through measuring those angles and proportions, like I mention in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/672/how-to-start-a-pencil-portrait-without-using-an-outline-of-features/686#686&quot;&gt;this answer about portrait drawing&lt;/a&gt;. Instead of comparing lines simply to themselves, you can compare lengths and angles to your clear, consistent grid lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtodrawjourney.com/grid-drawing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;helps you to get a better understanding of scale&lt;/a&gt; and proportion, especially when dealing with perspective and foreshortening. Your brain may know that a leg is longer than an arm, but in 2D representation this is not always the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while drawing from imagination you may think &quot;I know the leg will be shorter than usual at this angle&quot;, you may over/under-estimate how much to adjust the limb for foreshortening. However, drawing from the grid will give you experience to help you make a more accurate decision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These skills will be applicable to &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; drawing you're doing from reference, but also help train your eye to see what's right/wrong about things you draw from imagination. It's just another way to build up your ability to critically analyze what's &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's just one component that will help you in your drawing from imagination. For figure drawing in particular, it's helpful to learn how to construct figures using some type of method, such as blocks-and-cylinders. Drawing from life, in general, is going to give you a better understanding how the world actually looks and works. For instance, you may be able to construct great mannequins, but without having a good mental repository of real facial features and body types, you'll likely have very stale figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your focus is drawing people and poses from imagination, I personally would pursue other forms of practice over grid drawing. If I were to compare drawing by grid to drawing from materials by artistic anatomy masters such Jenó Barcsay and Stephen Rogers Peck, I'd pick artistic anatomy as a clear winner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T01:42:32.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:50:10.797" Score="-1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The best way would be to heat laminate the work which doesn't yellow out and also is easy and cheap to get it done.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Framing it in a good double glass frame is another way to keep it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could protect the finished work with thin film tapes that are available for mobile lamination which not just protects the work but also will be flexible for carrying just like a paper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Simply covering it tight with a food wrapping film will protect it too. but it sure needs another level of protection over it like a glass frame or so as the film itself is very soft.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T10:12:20.493" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T10:12:20.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="607" CreationDate="2016-06-17T08:56:14.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using microwave doesn't actually dry, but either burns or cooks the flower. I tried different levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way is to let it dry by its own. I use a box I custom made with glass, and the box is left with a small gap at the bottom for the moisture to escape. The box is to be kept outside in direct sunlight, which naturally dries the flower. It takes less than a day to finish the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T11:17:23.837" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T11:17:23.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1734" CreationDate="2016-06-17T09:05:30.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I have faced issues like this too...And I actually found a way to fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I did was to cook the clay...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah you read it right, I literally cooked the clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On heating the clay it gets back its softness, just make sure you don't use too much heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure of the level of heat to use either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't add anything like oil or things similar, that actually changes the property and nature of the clay later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the clay became hard on time is coz the moisture in it is evaporated in time and if you see oil doesn't  evaporate like any other normal liquid that easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So All I do is use my pressure cooker and pour a glass of water into it and take the clay and place on a small metal plate and cook it for a min or so, in pressure along with the water the clay absorbs the water required. Just take the clay and wait for it to cool, and voila the clay is back to form ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Just make sure while you cook the clay is kept on a small metal plate or something coz its gonna melt and get struck to that. If you don't use it, you might end up cleaning the cooker :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T09:05:30.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2016-06-17T09:08:50.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Place the paper you want to make look old between 2 pieces of glass, and put it in open sunlight. The paper gets its old look within days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="511" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T10:55:18.470" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T10:55:18.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1797" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-17T10:35:48.883" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T10:35:48.883" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T10:35:48.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1798" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-17T10:35:48.883" Score="0" Body="A cylindrical drawing tool, usually made of rolled paper, used to smudge or blend marks made with charcoal, crayon, pastels, pencil or other drawing utensils. Distinct from a Blending Stump as the paper layers are less compact and visible." OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T11:18:07.837" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T11:18:07.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1799" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-17T10:39:48.517" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T10:39:48.517" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T10:39:48.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1800" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-17T10:39:48.517" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to a Blending-Stump. A Blending-Stump is a cylindrical drawing tool, tapered at the ends and usually made of rolled paper, used to smudge or blend marks made with charcoal, crayon, pastels, pencil or other drawing utensils. Distinct from a Tortillon as the paper layers are very compact and cannot be distinguished." OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T11:17:39.867" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T11:17:39.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1802" CreationDate="2016-06-17T13:21:41.220" Score="11" ViewCount="4908" Body="&lt;p&gt;As discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1784/44&quot;&gt;an answer&lt;/a&gt; to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/1777/will-putting-a-probably-oil-painting-under-glass-cause-damage&quot;&gt;question about putting an oil paint behind glass&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reason for the delay after the painting is finished is that it can take this long for the painting to fully 'dry'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1783/44&quot;&gt;another answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, oil paintings actually take years to fully dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was also mentioned that there is no consensus about putting it behind glass &lt;em&gt;while&lt;/em&gt; it is drying. Waiting until it is dried could be a safe bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are factors beyond time that would affect this e.g. environmental factors, thickness of paint used etc. If the painting being dry is important for whatever reason (like storage) it would be useful to know when the painting is free of moisture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if an oil painting is dry? Or perhaps it does not really matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T00:51:50.477" Title="How can you tell if an oil painting is dry?" Tags="|preservation|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1801" CreationDate="2016-06-17T15:58:50.547" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before providing a way to test the oil painting is dry, it's useful to know how the &lt;em&gt;drying&lt;/em&gt; process works and why it is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does oil paint dry (cure)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil Paint doesn’t really dry, rather it cures. The pigment is dispersed in oil (typically linseed) and generally contains a solvent (methylated/white spirit). The solvent evaporates away leaving the oil and the pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then over a period of time the oil &amp;amp; pigment slowly become less malleable through a process of oxidisation. The oil hasn’t evaporated away (&lt;em&gt;dried&lt;/em&gt;) it has become hard (&lt;em&gt;cured&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can cause differences in the drying time?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have mentioned in your question there are several things that can affect the curing time of the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Application thickness of the paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pigment colour:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Earth colours require less oil (ochre etc.), so cure quicker&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZhsS.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZhsS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Earth Colours&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primary colours require more oil (crimson etc.), so cure slower&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFLZr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFLZr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Primary Colours&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brand/type of paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Environmental factors such as temperature, humidity, airflow &amp;amp; sunlight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most paint suppliers offer good advice on how long their paints take to dry. But some general guidelines are that most paints will be &lt;em&gt;touch dry after 10-14 days&lt;/em&gt; and should be &lt;em&gt;fully cured within 6 months&lt;/em&gt;. However, for those pieces where the artist has used a liberal impasto technique, then upto 2 years is possible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why wait?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the artist intends to &lt;em&gt;varnish&lt;/em&gt;, and there are several reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring richness &amp;amp; vibrancy to colour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of cleaning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so before the paint has cured could lead to cracking and also it might not allow the paint to fully cure, and this can lead to weakness between layers. And, therefore, flaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When framing it is less important that the painting is fully cured. But there are risks as the piece could be knocked during the process and cause indenting, or squashing, of the paint. Also, it can slow down the curing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer the actual question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you know that the oil painting is dry?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very simple test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a lint-free rag and dip it into white spirit. Pick an inconspicuous area and gently rub. If any colour shows on the rag, it requires further drying time before varnishing or framing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wouldn’t suggest doing this on your newly acquired Gerhard Richter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T16:08:16.063" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T16:08:16.063" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1805" CreationDate="2016-06-17T21:51:25.590" Score="10" ViewCount="13317" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This was posted after a discussion of whether assassins' questions about deadly weapons would be on-topic here.&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;If I wanted to make a sword, say as a prop for a theatrical production, what would be the best material to use that satisfies the following criteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It must be &lt;strong&gt;relatively easy to make&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can be made at home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;requiring only materials and tools which are relatively easy to procure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shouldn't take too long to make&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It should also be &lt;strong&gt;realistic&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rigid, not bending or flopping about even when it strikes a solid object&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the same colour and appearance as a real sword would be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;preferably reasonably heavy, so that it feels as well as looks realistic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about making such a 'weapon'?&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Edit for clarification:&lt;/strong&gt; the type of sword I'm imagining would probably be classed as a broadsword: not thin and pin-shaped like a rapier, but not a massive greatsword either. Example pictures (randomly picked off the internet - it doesn't have to look exactly like either of these):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYzTXm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYzTXm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hmbN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hmbN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T11:49:49.717" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:54:26.833" Title="What material to use for a prop sword?" Tags="|material-selection|prop-weapons|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1803" CreationDate="2016-06-17T23:55:48.933" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood. Adam Savage (whose non mythbuster stuff I love to bits) has a tendancy of making them - see his &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcDCZ2TmTck&quot;&gt;hellboy sword&lt;/a&gt;. He used thin plywood for a base and shaped it with bondo, covering it with aluminum ducting tape. He has another video where he shows process of making a &lt;em&gt;shiny&lt;/em&gt; not weathered 'metal' sword from a solid wood sword - the process where he covers the sword in tape starts &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/O1--0DLJv-8?t=1156&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but the whole video is awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's actually a precedent for this with solid boken, and many modern sword shaping techniques might work with wooden swords. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="398" LastEditorUserId="398" LastEditDate="2016-06-18T06:50:05.613" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T06:50:05.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1803" CreationDate="2016-06-18T02:59:23.533" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PVC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating PVC with a heat gun will soften it, so you can flatten it between boards with clamps/weight to make the blade. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=PVC%20swords&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a multitude of YouTube videos&lt;/a&gt; from folks building cosplay swords out of PVC pipes and fittings.  PVC is a bit hardier than wood and can stand up to whacking a bit better. While it won't look completely metallic, you can sand and paint it.  Again, YouTube videos abound on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/hil37bdvNHg?t=226&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; that demonstrates making the entire sword from PVC pipe. It's queued to 3:46, where the sword blade is heated and flattened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/hil37bdvNHg?t=226&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPhcKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screengrab from Youtube video&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4OZWrw50CY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; mentions that if you plan on using it as a training sword and need it to have a more realistic weight, you can just seal the end and fill it with water or sand. It is PVC pipe, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T19:54:26.833" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:54:26.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1803" CreationDate="2016-06-18T04:24:56.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/4&quot; lauan plywood from the hardware store. Easily worked with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Sand rough edges, and 'break' any corner. Paint it a black-grey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the &quot;blade&quot; continue past the cross-guard to the end of the grip. Build up the grip with a few strips of plywood, then sand the corners off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the cross guard from plywood... you get the idea. This is probably 10 total pieces to cut out, 6 of which are identical (for the grip).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid the urge to put a point on it, or real edges. The point would simply be an eye-poker. Sharp edges are fragile and will raise splinters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="517" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T11:51:52.857" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T11:51:52.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-19T13:29:00.503" Score="0" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mehndi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mehndi/Henna designs&lt;/a&gt; result when I search about line art in Google.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I intend to draw such designs on paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not find any &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composition_%28visual_arts%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;composition guidelines&lt;/a&gt; regarding such designs in Google search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the following as an example what composition guidelines apply here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mf2bE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mf2bE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot; Easter floral henna design&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Easter floral henna design taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canstockphoto.com/easter-floral-henna-design-8852710.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can Stock Photo.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T07:32:18.087" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T08:22:18.903" Title="What are the composition guidelines to be followed in line art of type Mehndi designs?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-06-27T13:44:53.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:38:48.550" Score="3" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently getting economic hand held felting needles in my area is hard. I can get single felting needles easy though. While I can purchase what I want online I would like to see what it would take to make my own rubber-like handles. I was looking to see how something like this could have been made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnyJO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnyJO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had thought about experimenting with hot glue or perhaps even epoxy. I thought of hot glue when I saw what looked to be bubbles in the casts above. Either way these ideas could lead to the ruin of my needles so I am hesitant. The colour is not important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use to make the grips on felting needles that are like what is pictured above? Best I get from searching is something called Plasti-Dip but I don't think that will work here. I am aware that I can try and make a wooden style handle but I am trying to see how these are made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T03:19:42.240" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T09:44:16.103" Title="What can I use to make grips for my felting needles?" Tags="|tool-fabrication|felting-needles|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1809" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:50:24.553" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T01:50:24.553" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T01:50:24.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1810" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:50:24.553" Score="0" Body="Use when you need advice on the design or the creation of tools. This should be partnered with the tag of the tool you are trying to create. " OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-18T08:28:21.910" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T08:28:21.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1811" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:57:44.153" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T01:57:44.153" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T01:57:44.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1812" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:57:44.153" Score="0" Body="Tools used in needle felting. Questions should be about the use and selection of these as it applies to needle felting. " OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T04:08:02.133" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T04:08:02.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1813" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-20T02:06:41.533" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T02:06:41.533" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T02:06:41.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1814" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-20T02:06:41.533" Score="0" Body="For questions about the tools, materials or design of prop / cosplay weapons. This tag should not be used for questions about real weapons. " OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T04:08:44.010" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T04:08:44.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1808" CreationDate="2016-06-20T02:32:04.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An option that would be firmer than rubber is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;polycaprolactone&lt;/strong&gt; (PCL)&lt;/a&gt;. This is a polyester that melts at relatively low temperature (~60°C), meaning it can be melted in very hot water. Once melted, it can be shaped into almost any shape (e.g. a handle) you like, and other things (e.g. the needles) can be inserted into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T02:32:04.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1808" CreationDate="2016-06-20T06:15:39.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered &lt;a href=&quot;https://sugru.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sugru&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A silicone-based rubber for lots of &quot;hacks&quot;, adding ergonomic grips or softening handles being one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zW7Kn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zW7Kn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUWEi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUWEi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Image source: manufacturer's website)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material can be removed from all non-porous surfaces, so your single needles won't be harmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T06:21:12.073" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T06:21:12.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1818" CreationDate="2016-06-20T16:39:32.673" Score="10" ViewCount="4414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a melted-crayon decorative candle idea, but I can't figure out the last step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept is based on melting crayons using the sun &amp;amp; foil, to create art or new crayons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I want to melt crayons inside a small glass, ceramic or plastic container (preferably glass or even ceramic), such as a shot glass. I will warm up the container with a candle warmer or a beverage warmer plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue will be removing the formed candle after it's melted as desired. I don't think it'll just pop out once cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can easily remove the wax, keeping the form intact? Or, is there a way to prep the container beforehand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should be able to test this on existing small candles or tealights we have that are in glass, but it will be some time before I can test other container materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't know if there are different &quot;types&quot; of wax. If there are, please advise what type crayons typically are.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T17:45:30.270" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T14:09:48.140" Title="Cleanly extract homemade candle from glass or plastic mold?" Tags="|wax|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2016-06-20T19:24:04.543" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wax and Glass have very different rates of thermal expansion. Once the liquid wax has cooled and become solid, and you don't think the glass is at a risk of shattering, I would suggest putting the wax filled mold in the freezer. The wax should just pop loose. If it doesn't a quick rinse of the glass in warm water should release the wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This trick also works for wax on tablecloths, napkins, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T19:24:04.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1822" CreationDate="2016-06-20T23:20:13.833" Score="4" ViewCount="707" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy a neoprene case for my new laptop. I'd like to sew on some sequins or patches. Would doing so harm the fabric's ability to keep water off of its precious cargo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T23:46:37.350" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T15:14:48.873" Title="Will sewing onto neoprene compromise its water resistance?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1829" CreationDate="2016-06-21T07:00:03.197" Score="9" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0891348689&quot;&gt;Drawing Realistic Textures in Pencil&lt;/a&gt;, the author says that we should shade according to the contours of an object. As an example he has shown a cone shaped flat bottomed flower pot, which was quite easy to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to understand how to find contours of other 3D objects like a leaf, an apple, or a human face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know where the contours are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T00:06:03.843" Title="How to find the contours of a 3D object?" Tags="|drawing|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="607" CreationDate="2016-06-21T09:26:40.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following might be suboptimal, but it worked several times for me (and is purely empirical):    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the microwave at &lt;em&gt;minimum power&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the flower in a folded &lt;em&gt;paper towel&lt;/em&gt; which you place in a &lt;em&gt;tupperware&lt;/em&gt;.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the tupperware a &lt;em&gt;few seconds&lt;/em&gt; in the microwave.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the tupperware, &lt;em&gt;change&lt;/em&gt; the paper towel and &lt;em&gt;dry&lt;/em&gt; the vapor in the tupperware.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restart at step 3 until you are satisfied.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the number of seconds depends a lot on the type of flower. Typically, I start with 5-10 seconds and then decrease the amount of time. I never did it for flowers with petals, but I guess that you'll have to reduce the time in this case. Note that keeping small times allows a better control on your experiment.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I should admit that I never could get it as dry as after a long &lt;em&gt;natural&lt;/em&gt; process, but you can definitely boost it with this technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T10:29:28.603" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T10:29:28.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1819" CreationDate="2016-06-21T12:16:24.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're starting with waterproof neoprene (which may be closed cell or coated on one side), thread holes will breach this and it will leak.  It would be unlikely to let light rain in but putting it down in a puddle would allow it to leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a neoprene laptop case, and it's not the waterproof type of neoprene, but if any water (rain, or from wet things in the same bag) gets in it's around the stitching.  You're also likely to have to look hard and pay more to get a waterproof case, whether or not it's neoprene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to seal up the holes though, with neoprene repair glue (wetsuit glue, &quot;neoprene queen&quot; is the brand I use).  This may be worth it even on a non-waterproof neoprene case. This is discussed in a question (mine) on outdoors.se &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/q/21026/2529&quot;&gt;How can I adjust a neoprene wrist/neck seal on a drysuit, by cutting and joining?&lt;/a&gt;.  My own answer after trying it has some ideas, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blind_stitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blind stitching&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T15:14:48.873" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T15:14:48.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1803" CreationDate="2016-06-21T12:26:39.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wanted a good &lt;em&gt;sound&lt;/em&gt; on impact, as well as a good weight, the only way to go would be solid metal.  I've made them (in the dim and distant past, though slightly more recently than the middle ages) from steel bar stock, bought as close to the right size as possible and shaped on a bench grinder.  Even with power tools it was tedious.  A wipe over with oil will stop them rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might get away with aluminium which would be much easier to work and lighter, but wouldn't sound as good.  Either way the handle and crossguard should have some strength to them.  The crossguard could be wooden with rather large bolts providing a strong core; when we made them the handle was a continuation of the blade with wooden grips wound with string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without an edge on them, they could do some damage if you hit another actor rather than their sword.  Detailed rehearsals are both important and intersting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T12:26:39.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2016-06-21T14:00:30.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Place the paper in a sealed box or plastic bag together with an open jar with a bit of ammoniac in it and leave it. The fumes will age it (works well with wood too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to bake the paper at around 100 C (200 F). It will give you an even brown colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put some steel wool together with vinegar in a jar and leave it for a week or 2. Then apply it to the paper and let it dry. It will give a nice yellowish colour. This method also works very well for staining wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="533" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T20:18:14.040" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T20:18:14.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2016-06-21T14:09:48.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wax will often shrink a bit while cooling down so with a bit of luck the candle will come out fairly easy. Otherwise you can warm the mould carefully until the candle slides out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="533" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T14:09:48.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2016-06-22T02:49:46.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hairspray will work but will yellow over time. Get the Krylon fixative mentioned above. Any hobby store will carry it.  You can also use clear varnish from the paint department at a big box store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="536" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T02:49:46.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1808" CreationDate="2016-06-22T02:54:54.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what size the ends of the needles are where you grip them.  I was wondering, could you use pen/pencil grips like you can get at office supply stores?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="536" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T02:54:54.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T06:59:04.967" Score="2" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard somewhere that an orange, gray and white &quot;style&quot; has a specific name. I believe that it has &quot;minimalism&quot; in it, but I cannot recall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.lv/search?q=gray%20orange%20white%20design&amp;amp;biw=1536&amp;amp;bih=764&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiprrSOhrvNAhXFVSwKHUY2CJYQ_AUICCgB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is an example of the color scheme&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, but in my case it's more about user interfaces design in software, corporate logo style, corporate branding and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an actual name for this style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="539" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T07:21:00.867" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T07:21:00.867" Title="Is there a name for an orange, gray and white -style pattern?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1820" CreationDate="2016-06-22T11:55:28.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't think of it as &quot;shade according to contour&quot; but think instead as &quot;shade defines contour&quot;. It's the sudtle changes in colour values across the surface of a form which allows the artist to see the true shape of the form. If the value of the shade/shadow remains exactly the same across the entire form then the form would look more like a flat surface then a continuously changing shape. That's the reason art critics comment &quot;a drawing looks flat&quot; is because the artist did not pay close enough attention to the sudtle value changes across a form. Under a fixed light source the values shown on a form will change as the form tilts towards and away from that light source. Value change = Form Change ( so says Scott Robertson) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when looking at your leaf, apple, or face, (or any object) study closely the &quot;value&quot; of the colour. But only study one small spot at a time. Ask your self if that spot is slightly lighter or slighter darker than the spots around it. Slowly you will build up a shadow map of the entire surface of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help learn how to access the value of a colour there is a tool called a grey-scale value checker. It's a card when a series of grey scale values on it. The card has a hole punched out one each value. You place the card in front of your eyes and view the object. Lining up the different values until it matches what you see on the object. Over time you will train your eyes to see the sudtle changes without the need of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very good book, in my opinion, on the subject is &quot;Light for the Artist&quot; by Ted Seth Jacobs, Dover Publications Inc, 1988&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the science of things then I would recommend &quot;Vision and Art, The Biology Of Seeing&quot; by Margaret Livingston, Abrams Books, 2014&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and if you like good videos then check out Darryl Tank's 5PencilMethod &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fivepencilmethod.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjw7qi7BRCvsr3N58GvsTkSJAA3UzLvUE9pbz6cK_2QtH6ZIU3p7h5ptIhu4gyrmu59K-o9uhoC3THw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fivepencilmethod.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjw7qi7BRCvsr3N58GvsTkSJAA3UzLvUE9pbz6cK_2QtH6ZIU3p7h5ptIhu4gyrmu59K-o9uhoC3THw_wcB&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;He's got some great free videos on YouTube as well. I think of him as a Samurai/Master Jedi when it comes to the rendering of values in a drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T14:31:10.320" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T14:31:10.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="635" CreationDate="2016-06-22T18:49:55.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One or two vanishing points are placed on the horizon. If you're drawing with 3 vanishing points, the third will be above or below the horizon.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nae7R.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nae7R.gif&quot; alt=&quot;one, two and three vanishing points&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like the position of the horizon, the vanishing point(s) depend(s) on the perspective, and at what angle you are viewing the object you are drawing. In case of the one-point perspective, the upper and lower edge are parallel and horizontal, so any extra vanishing points would be at an infinite distance away.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In case of two-point perspective, vertical lines are parallel, so this is actually a simplified case of the three-point perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T18:49:55.390" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1828" CreationDate="2016-06-22T20:40:38.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the images you've shown, where the main colors are the shades of grey, I'd call it grayscale with a single accent color, in this specific case, the accent color is orange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also call it black and white with a single accent color but that might lead people to believe that &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; black and white were used rather than shades of gray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something similar can be seen in these ceramic items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JoKbUm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JoKbUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White and grey teapot with orange accents&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcdLHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcdLHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Black and white pot with orange&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were talking more about something like this tea kettle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZmaPMm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZmaPMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Orange kettle with grey accents&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be the opposite - orange with grayscale accents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using multiple shades of the same orange (same color, different amounts of white/black), it would be &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monochromatic_color&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;monochromatic&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, like the image below, which is an underpainting of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artistsnetwork.com/articles/art-demos-techniques/indirect-painting-route-by-michael-chesley-johnson&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;finished painting&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tj9Ic.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tj9Ic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Monochromatic image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T20:40:38.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1820" CreationDate="2016-06-22T21:53:10.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This ultimately comes down to the skills of observation that you acquire through practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the fundamental purposes of life drawing as an exercise is to train yourself to closely observe what is there rather than what you know or expect to be there. Although we tend to think of our vision as being like a camera, in reality a lot of what we 'see' is constructed in our brains in relation to a whole variety of other information. The brain decided what is important in a scene and makes up quite a lot of the rest and in drawing these expectations can get in the way of properly detailed observation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly when we perceive a 3 dimensional object, especially something familiar  getting a sense of its form and volume is automatic and unconscious so unravelling the clues which give us that information and translating them onto paper is not necessarily straightforward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to deal with this is to practice drawing objects or collection of objects where we don't have any good reference points or expectations. In terms of looking at contours consider drawing things like piles of clothes crumpled up paper,  driftwood etc you are looking for subjects where you don't already 'know' what they look like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lighting can also help, try working in a dark room with just one or two sources of light, this will exaggerate contrast and help to make the relationship between tone and contour clearer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't just about being able to accurately reproduce grey values like a robot, the real point is to be able to consciously visualise something in 3 dimensions and be able to express that as marks on paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T21:53:10.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1820" CreationDate="2016-06-23T02:10:48.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I think of &quot;shading with the contours&quot;, I think of having your lines follow the perspective contours of the object. So, in a sphere your strokes or shadow edges will be curved, as the shadow wraps around the surface. On a cube, your strokes can be flat and straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think of your object in wire-frames, it may help to decide which way to place the shading. Keeping those contour lines in mind may help you to visualize when and how much to curve or straighten the strokes or edges of your shading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I'm not able to demo this at the time, but I mainly use mental wire-framing as a visualization technique. It's something that came from me drawing box-and-cylinder mannequins for figure drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can practice visualizing these contours, without doing all the work of shading, with something called &lt;strong&gt;crossed-contour drawing&lt;/strong&gt;. There's a great many search results crossed-contour drawing, so I'd use them! It's one of those things where you have to practice, in order to train both your eyes and your hands to understand what's going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're having too hard of a time figuring out how to make the contours, you can try finding images of wire-frame models, such as &quot;wire-frame face&quot;. You can use these images to see how a wire-frame maps to a real object. One nice thing about this approach is that you can find 3D models for programs such as Maya. &lt;a href=&quot;http://3docean.net/item/green-apple-for-games/16390194&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;These models&lt;/a&gt; are intended for sale, but the sample images generally show the fully rendered (colored &amp;amp; shaded) object &lt;em&gt;plus&lt;/em&gt; the wireframe of the object in the same position. That direct side-by-side may be very helpful for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you don't have your shading follow your contours, you end up with results like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fQQ95.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fQQ95.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The shading on this square has circular contours, like you'd see on a sphere, so it makes the shape seem rounded or bowed, which isn't the effect you want for a flat plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h9fXx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h9fXx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This circle has clear linear gradation, instead of curved contour shading. Instead of looking like a sphere, this looks like a bent coin at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T02:10:48.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1847" CreationDate="2016-06-23T03:05:52.603" Score="12" ViewCount="1067" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working with pen and ink, doing pieces of this style for more than a decade. Many times, I have been asked for a name to describe what I do, and I'm continually left with stating that it is simply &quot;my style.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific style of art that would aptly describe this type of highly-detailed pen-and-ink work that uses small drawings to work together to create the whole of the piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZwuJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZwuJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Abstract Flag Art by Jeffrey Blake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="543" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-21T23:36:57.033" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T19:18:18.020" Title="What name best describes this style of pen-and-ink art?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2016-06-23T13:27:10.020" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pieces are likely to be handled and/or displayed then using fixative sprays is probably the best option. There are two purposely manufactured types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Workable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Workable Fixative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the name suggests, this allows you to add additional layers to your work after the spray has been used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Workable Fixative is a thin solution and it sets up a new toothy (slightly rough) surface for more drawing. You can choose to spray the entire piece or isolated parts. To prevent other areas getting sprayed you can use paper, or frisket, to shield the areas that you don't want to spray. Once the fixative is dry you can continue working on the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it provides new tooth can be an advantage as heavily shaded/worked areas can become smooth making it harder to apply further layers of graphite/colour to the piece. So, you can use a workable fixative every few layers to keep a fresh tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Fixative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This provides a more durable surface than a Workable Fixative, but this should only be applied once you are certain that you don't what to make any further adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a Final Fixative can cause the piece to darken so many artists do not apply the this layer and simply stop at a Workable Fixative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hairspray&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hair Spray has been mentioned as a cheaper alternative to fixative sprays. Below is a &lt;em&gt;summarisation from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/how-to/music-creative-arts/Visual-Arts/Drawing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawing for Dummies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hairspray does contain some of the materials of a Fixative but it only works for the short term, and ultimately damages the drawing - the hairspray yellows over time and ruins the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do not use hairspray.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Applying Fixative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use proper ventilation. Fixatives smells and &lt;em&gt;is hazardous to your health&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shake the can before spraying and test on a scrap piece of paper away from your drawing. The nozzle can clog &amp;amp; will deposit 'lumps' on your drawing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Directions on the generally say to spray 20-25cm (8-10 inches) from drawing. However, I spray 30-40cm (12-15 inches) from drawing. Make sure it is on a flat surface and not drafty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly spray first coat horizontally. Let dry for 15 minutes. Make sure the layer is even and smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly spray second coat vertically. Let dry for 15 minutes. Make sure the layer is even and smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Subsequent layers may be added in alternating directions if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The sprayed areas of your piece will become darker once you have sprayed it and it won't lighten once the fixative has dried.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T13:27:10.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2016-06-23T14:00:35.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When turning wood, I use paraffin blocks to finish the projects. I hold a solid block against the turning piece and make sure that everything is coated. Then I take a clean cloth and buff the turning piece up.&#xA;The only downside in my opinion is that it doesn't penetrated the wood very deep this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="533" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T14:00:35.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1837" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T15:59:18.503" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T15:59:18.503" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T15:59:18.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1838" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T15:59:18.503" Score="0" Body="Use when trying to figure out the name of a technique used in an existing art or craft." OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T15:59:18.503" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T15:59:18.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1841" CreationDate="2016-06-24T10:10:45.457" Score="11" ViewCount="25934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently started using a sewing machine to make simple cushion covers. But I've run into a consistent problem of bunching. Below is an example of what I'm experiencing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GxBW5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GxBW5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thread bunching&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked that my feed dogs are up, that the tension is on, that my bobbin is in the correct way, and that the upper thread is correctly threaded. Is there any other issues I should investigate before getting my machine looked at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T15:28:46.240" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T15:28:46.240" Title="How can I stop my thread from bunching when using a sewing machine?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1839" CreationDate="2016-06-24T13:25:38.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One fix to attempt before taking the machine into the shop is &lt;strong&gt;replacing the needle&lt;/strong&gt;. A slightly bent needle can appear to be sewing correctly, but once you start going at speed it almost inevitably creates one of those nasty tangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T13:25:38.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1839" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:08:47.693" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you absolutely sure the upper thread is threaded correctly, especially through the tension control knob? (I would go ahead and re-thread the machine, since it's cheap to do.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to make sure of (most of which you've already done, but just for completeness' sake):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The presser foot is fully down (on many machines, the tension isn't engaged unless the foot is down)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tension control knob is set correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bobbin is inserted correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bobbin thread is wound in the correct direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bobbin thread is raised correctly (with the presser foot up, pull on the bobbin thread: it should unspool freely with very little resistance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The needle is sharp and straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The feed dogs are engaged/the bobbin winder is not turned on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, something that helped an old finicky machine I used to have was to clean out the bobbin area - the accumulated fuzz seemed to make it more prone to tension issues, somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of that helps, I'm afraid it's time to visit the repair shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T15:58:02.370" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T15:58:02.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1839" CreationDate="2016-06-24T19:17:36.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing you might check is for knotted threads jamming the bobbin area. This happened to me after having consistent birdnesting on my piece, after checking the tension and upon removing the bobbin to check it and noticing the gigantic mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="535" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T19:17:36.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1839" CreationDate="2016-06-24T22:34:26.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time I've had that problem, the bobbin was inserted in the holder the wrong way. What seemed like the right way was the wrong way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="555" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T22:34:26.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1845" CreationDate="2016-06-25T01:42:09.543" Score="3" ViewCount="2029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not very skilled with paper. I'm a video editor looking to achieve &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zls4Ao3GyM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this effect&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j6zBK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mouth&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm well aware that most of it is special effects, and things like articulation are made of wire attached to the hands and arms of the character. Although, the mouth is make by practical effects. Could some good soul give to me a way to create a similar effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="556" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T13:28:21.270" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T13:28:21.270" Title="How is this moving mouth effect done?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1844" CreationDate="2016-06-26T18:40:59.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to make it, I'd do something like this: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R7Omk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R7Omk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Puppet with moving jaw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The face has to go on one piece of paper/cardboard, and the lower jaw is a separate piece. The strip of paper that is attached to the lower jaw, will go through the hole just below the face, so you can hold the strip and move it up and down without your hand being visible.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A large chin can cover the hole, when the mouth is closed. When the mouth is opened, you'll see a part of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T18:40:59.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1834" CreationDate="2016-06-26T22:08:56.530" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first looked at your image my reaction was &amp;quot;mosaic&amp;quot; was the root of the style, and so I did a little digging and came across the concept of &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=doodle%20mosaic%20drawing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;doodle mosaic&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; that really seems to fit.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The other reason that worked for me is that there is a Zen Doodle feel as well, the sense that the sum of the parts are creating a bigger result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-10-17T19:18:18.020" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T19:18:18.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-26T23:53:35.293" Score="7" ViewCount="4758" Body="&lt;p&gt;After carving some soap per the suggestion here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1745/232&quot;&gt;Is there a kid-safe carving material?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a small, but fragile design that I'd like to keep relatively safe. I'm concerned about moisture and physical strength, but also that handling the soap actually affects the shape (for instance, edges get smooth if I accidentally rub them, and it gets soft from the heat of my hands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pahnation.com/how-to-carve-soap-soap-carving-soap-canvas/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This tutorial&lt;/a&gt; mentions using acrylic sealer after painting it, but I wasn't planning on painting my carvings. Will that type of sealant still hold and work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, this was Irish Spring soap, and it's pretty soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T01:09:08.883" Title="Strengthen or preserve a soap carving?" Tags="|preservation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1850" CreationDate="2016-06-27T00:01:22.370" Score="6" ViewCount="10384" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cousin makes this kind of black and white art. He doesn't have any education in art or doing paintings or drawings. He once told me he just sits and draws whatever that comes from within. So, all he makes is really original without any copying. There are some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/Melting-Hallucinations-1601666420072585/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;samples on his page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRiIlm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tRiIlm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if this is any known style of art? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="561" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T09:14:25.560" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T15:12:25.313" Title="What art style does this black and white work represent?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2016-06-27T01:45:13.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that this is &lt;strong&gt;high contrast art&lt;/strong&gt;. The variance of dark and light colours is very high in that picture. While this does not fit all the styles linked it fits enough of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is like what you see in the classic Che Guevara graphic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aLuO2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aLuO2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect is not limited to just black and white but excels in using minimal colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T01:51:13.593" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:51:13.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1807" CreationDate="2016-06-27T04:38:09.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am also from India and i know about mehndi, while creating any mehndi look on hand, you need to have a Top down approach, the creation is started from the top so as to not disturb the wet mehndi you already applied to the hand and you have space at the bottom to rest your hand and create a design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While on paper, there are no rules, it's basically doodling, you can get as creative as you want. The creativity applies to both hand and paper.Also you need to alter your designs based on where you want them, for a hand the diagram you mentioned might not work because a hands shape and size also need to be taken into account. I hope this helps because your question is a little ambiguous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mehndi is a form of doodle art, some examples ad rules can be found at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://drawsketch.about.com/od/doodles/a/Begin-Doodling.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://drawsketch.about.com/od/doodles/a/Begin-Doodling.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/185773553351220298/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/185773553351220298/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkletart.com/rsr/2013/08/doodling-for-beginners.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sparkletart.com/rsr/2013/08/doodling-for-beginners.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/elixaa/henna-on-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.pinterest.com/elixaa/henna-on-paper/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1ub7RR2GNY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1ub7RR2GNY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lifechilli.com/draw-mehndi-designs-step-step/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lifechilli.com/draw-mehndi-designs-step-step/&lt;/a&gt; (for hand, just as a refrence)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="279" LastEditorUserId="279" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T08:22:18.903" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T08:22:18.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1861" CreationDate="2016-06-27T13:11:26.423" Score="7" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to paint my (garden) plastic chairs with nice designs. These are very standard chairs like this one:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fark.all-foreign.net/how-to-clean-plastic-lawn-chairs/plastic-lawn-chairs-pictures/#prettyPhoto&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZDX4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't know their exact composition but a google search make me thinking that this is PVC or Polypropylene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm living in central Europe so the paint should resists different types of weather, i.e. &lt;em&gt;rain&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;sun&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;snow&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are good paints for this purpose?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my google search, I noticed that usually spray is recommended for such works. However, I would like to something like in the following example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nok20.org/painted-high-chair-birthday/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyLF0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;And for such patterns, spray seems very unconvenient (moreover, I'm not really used to work with sprays)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt; Click on the pictures to get redirected to their source on the web &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T13:24:10.037" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T07:09:47.387" Title="What paint to use for outdoor plastic chairs?" Tags="|paint|medium-selection|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-28T01:41:38.037" Score="11" ViewCount="9793" Body="&lt;p&gt;My teenage daughter dances ballet, and on a fairly regular basis we need to get her new pointe shoes. After so many pairs, I've gotten surprisingly good at sewing in the elastic and ribbons that need to go on the new shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I would like to improve on is the ends of the satin ribbons. When they are simply trimmed to length with scissors, they will inevitably fray and unravel over time. This is only somewhat alleviated by cutting a &quot;snake tongue&quot; at the end, an indented &quot;V&quot; shape -- that angle will help the ribbons last a few weeks longer, but I'm trying to find a solution that will last for months (without constantly trimming the ends until there is really nothing left!)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I prevent the ends of satin ribbon from fraying?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T11:04:27.870" Title="How do I keep ribbon ends from fraying?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2016-06-28T03:26:32.637" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to suggest something I was told while &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/443/44&quot;&gt;I was working on my ties&lt;/a&gt;. What you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; do is to use some clear nail polish, not a lot, to stiffen the ends of the ribbon. That should prevent them from fraying at all. It is likely that you could use something like a super glue to accomplish the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need a lot so, while it will darken the ribbon, if used sparingly it should not be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Keep-Ribbon-from-Fraying&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HN0lm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Nail Polish on ribbon ends&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Keep-Ribbon-from-Fraying&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikihow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page that comes from also suggests gluing as well as an alternative. It also covers using heat which &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1855/44&quot;&gt;Stephanie's answer covers better&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, that could also be seen as less then aesthetically pleasing. So to compliment my solution I would then suggest you use some thread and something simple like a tight overcast stitch. The thread will hold around the polish and hopefully distract from its presence. The nail polish alone should be enough to stop it from coming undone for a while. That would all depend on wear and tear at that point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T12:50:36.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2016-06-28T04:09:25.193" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satin&quot;&gt;satin&lt;/a&gt; ribbons are made from polyester or similar &quot;plastic&quot; fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you can use &lt;em&gt;heat&lt;/em&gt; to melt the fibers together: quickly run the flame of a lighter along the fraying edge. My preferred technique is to hold the ribbon in one hand, close to the end, so that the end is more or less horizontal. (For wide ribbons, a slight 'U' bend increases stability.) Then with the other hand I sweep the flame along the end, repeating if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest practising with some scrap ribbon, because each type of ribbon needs a slightly different amount of heat, usually more for thicker material. If done right, the sealed end will look just like the rest and, important in this case, be totally flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your first attempts aren't perfect yet, you will be hiding the ends under the second ankle wrap, so it remains invisible. And if anything should go wrong, you can always re-seal the ends (in the worst case cutting a very narrow bit of ribbon off first) without the need of drying time or stitches. Put a lighter in your dance bag and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T04:09:25.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2016-06-28T04:55:04.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try car filler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mix 2 components to create an epoxy. It's not expensive, easy to handle and sets quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just tried it on 2 random pebbles without preparing them and it gave a good result. However, the pink color could be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T09:19:36.270" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T09:19:36.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="270" CreationDate="2016-06-28T18:45:17.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is indeed a matter of preferences, although some generic things can be said about it.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wider the stitch, the stretchier the result. Imagine a zig zag stitch of width 0 (which is actually a straight stitch of course), and the result will be as stretchy as the sewing thread.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As for the length, my advice is to make them not too small in order to avoid wobbly edges. Something else may help here: a wobbly edge is the result of the fabric being stretched while you're sewing. You could stick some tape on top of the fabric and sew right next to it. &lt;br&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beware: don't use duct tape or something with a very strong glue, as you want to remove the tape afterwards without damaging your project!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T18:45:17.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1848" CreationDate="2016-06-28T23:07:25.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you weren't planning on painting your carvings, how about varnish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A transparent and colourless lacquer should be almost invisible after it's dried on the finished product, but will adhere to the soap and preserve your carvings as well as keeping the moisture inside the bar and preventing it from cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From J. C. Rich, &lt;em&gt;The Materials and Methods of Sculpture&lt;/em&gt;, p. 357 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Soap is an inexpensive, readily available and easily worked material that is steadily gaining in popularity as a wholesome and interesting avocational carving medium. (See Plate 62.) &lt;strong&gt;The major disadvantage of the substance is its marked lack of durability.&lt;/strong&gt; A work in soap is subject to a degree of physical shrinkage as it dries out and this may result in the development of fine surface cracks, which may in time fracture through the entire piece. As a soap mass dries out there is also a resultant change in appearance, from the soft and attractive surface the block has while it is fresh and possesses an abundance of moisture, to an opaque and dull surface after the bulk of this moisture has naturally evaporated from the mass on exposure to the atmosphere. However, &lt;strong&gt;a finished soap carving can be treated with one or two thin coatings of colorless and transparent lacquer&lt;/strong&gt;, which will serve to prevent the marked evaporation of moisture from the mass. Much of the attractive appearance of a feshly carved block of soap can thereby be preserved, and the permanence of the work substantially increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lds.org/friend/1974/02/soap-carving?lang=eng&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt; from the LDS organisation website tells you what to do after you've finished the carving process (again, emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Set your carving aside to dry for several days and then polish it with soft tissue paper, using your fingertips and palm of your hand to bring out highlights. If you wish, you can preserve your carving with &lt;strong&gt;a coat of transparent lacquer or tempera paint.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(Oh, and just for fun: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.funtrivia.com/askft/Question108811.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Has a prisoner ever escaped by carving a bar of soap to look like a gun, painting it with shoe polish, and then tricking a guard into allowing them to leave the jail; or is this only an urban legend?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T23:07:25.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1860" CreationDate="2016-06-29T08:05:16.697" Score="3" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a staple of draft papers. Typically, these are paper sheets that were printing errors in the sense that the print covers less than 10% of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to reuse them, but I really like to use block notes as drafts for various practical reasons (for example transportability and having my thoughts chronologically attached together). I also like the fact than one can easily take out a sheet from the block if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like the rings (as in the following picture):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinguin-papier.de/images/block_coll_kar.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QN1uzs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because 1) the blocks don't pile evenly and 2) approaching the end of the block, I very often encounter troubles to turn the pages (the sheets tend to pop out of some rings, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to craft a paper block like this one out of paper drafts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://neuland.ch/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/8/1/8102610-1_block.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5KZQqs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt; Click on the pictures to get redirected to their source on the web &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T08:51:21.807" Title="Crafting a block note with draft papers" Tags="|paper|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1859" CreationDate="2016-06-29T08:51:21.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can take a stack of paper and press them together between 2 wooden boards, making sure that one of the short sides sticks out a few mm. &#xA;You then cover the side of the paper that sticks out with bookbinders glue (PVA glue) and let it dry before you unclamp the stack of paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll end up with a nice noteblock with allows you to pull of sheets of paper out of it but is on the hand strong enough to keep the paper sheets in while flipping through the pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this when I was a student and used the backside of printed paper from my fathers office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="533" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T08:51:21.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1852" CreationDate="2016-06-29T10:05:16.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a plastic chair in my workshop. It is spattered with acrylic paint which is very hard to remove. I suggest you use good quality exterior grade acrylic paints. I have painted concrete ornaments with student grade acrylics and then sprayed them with automobile gel coat. It protects the paint and gives a shiny surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T10:05:16.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-29T12:01:42.807" Score="11" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy making origami models out of paper, but the idea of using more natural materials is also an appealing one. Tree leaves, being flat and foldable, seem to be an obvious choice, but the nature of the material is such that it never seems quite right for making models out of, in my experience so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When fresh, the leaves are too moist: they either bend without forming a fold line and then immediately bend back, or they form a fold line which oozes liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After having been left to dry, the leaves are too brittle: they break in half when folded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way of treating leaves, or a particular kind of tree to take them from, so that they fold easily?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They need to be able to fold without either breaking or springing back into place, and to be supple enough to perform the contortions that paper can in the process of making an origami model. I'm also only interested in tree leaves I can find locally (in a temperate climate, specifically northwestern Europe), so &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/506/what-kind-of-palm-leaves-or-other-material-can-be-used-for-palm-weaving&quot;&gt;palm leaves&lt;/a&gt; are out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T01:29:05.597" Title="How to make tree leaves suitable for origami?" Tags="|origami|plants|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1863" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-29T12:13:38.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use this tag for questions about arts or crafts which involve the use of plants or plant materials, e.g. palm weaving, flower pressing, leaf folding, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag should not be used for all questions involving wood, for which &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/wood&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;wood&lt;/a&gt; and associated tags already exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T12:53:15.557" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T12:53:15.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1864" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-29T12:13:38.373" Score="0" Body="Crafts involving plants or plant materials, such as palm weaving, flower pressing, etc." OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T13:07:18.230" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T13:07:18.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1865" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-29T14:13:20.523" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T14:13:20.523" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T14:13:20.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1866" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-29T14:13:20.523" Score="0" Body="Creating fabric, mats, or baskets by interlacing two sets of thread, fabric, or other material." OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T14:13:20.523" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T14:13:20.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2016-06-30T04:16:13.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have cut thick plastic tube using garden secateurs.  Even easier is to use double action tin snips. Hardware shops may sell snips like the picture. They are great for cutting plastic, leather and trimming cat's claws.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZF69.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZF69.png&quot; alt=&quot;general purpose snips&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T04:16:13.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-06-30T13:46:16.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thin out the paint layers and add a little more linseed oil to the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinner you apply the layers the less likely you will leave brushstrokes. The paint will however take longer to dry, some of the colour might yellow over time, and it may need more layers applied to the piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to play around. See what gets you that effect best! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="575" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T17:42:29.427" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T17:42:29.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="588" CreationDate="2016-06-30T13:54:54.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that Carbon Pencils tend to dry out and break easily while I work. If I use carbon, I try buy one which is oil based; they tend to have strong tonal values without the shininess of graphite. You can make a very sharp line with a neatly sharpened pencil. I sometimes wet it with some linseed oil, or saliva, if it looks a bit dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphite is used as a lubricant in some industrial processes. So it applies more smoothly but I find the shine is annoying at times. You should consider the grade of your graphite as well. The ratio of graphite mixed with clay will affect the shininess in some pencil brands. The Staedtler Black Red 7B is an example that doesn't have a shiny gloss compared to other brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="575" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T06:20:40.287" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T06:20:40.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-06-30T17:08:45.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To knock down your paint thickness, texture and take away brush strokes you could scrape the surface with a palette knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a gentle controlled scraping of the paint surface which is intended to leave the softest ghost image of the last layer applied. If you want to achieve soft transitions in your paintings that's one of the techniques to help get you there. Here's an example of the process youtube.com/watch?v=J2aptvHIJIY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T12:13:34.260" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T12:13:34.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2016-06-30T21:53:58.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once made a 50/50 mix of white PVA and wallpaper paste. It provides a quick grip from the paste and then strength from the PVA. The mix stays useable for at least a week if kept in a closed glass jar.&#xA;A kid safe glue could be made from flour and water paste plus school PVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T21:53:58.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1886" CreationDate="2016-07-01T01:14:22.163" Score="4" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kitchen unit in my shed waiting for its final coat of acrylic paint. However, the paint tin says not to use it below 10 degrees centigrade, and it's winter here, with temperatures rarely over 12. At 12 degrees the paint takes ages to dry.&#xA;My solutions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish the job inside the house. But I don't want to risk drips and splatters on walls and carpet. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heat the shed -- too expensive. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait patiently for a warmer day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T19:09:10.700" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T16:58:12.663" Title="Expedite drying acrylic painting in a cold temperature environment" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1877" CreationDate="2016-07-01T12:24:11.733" Score="6" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on some plaster carvings, following the steps in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1770/24&quot;&gt;answer I was given about making plaster&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These blocks dried in their container for about 8 hours, then have been air drying for another 48, as of this morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night, they were fine. As of this morning when I woke up, even the carving that I started has its sharpest edges turning orange. These edges do not match the edges of the initial mold. &lt;strong&gt;They seem to be the most completely dried portions of the plaster.&lt;/strong&gt; The thinness of the edges might have sped up the drying process, which could be part of the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;, about 7 hours later, my WIP carving has started turning white wherever it has dried out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used blue, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/p/assorted-food-color-bottles-4-count-market-pantry/-/A-13168128&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;liquid food coloring dye.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are my edges turning orange? What could I do to prevent it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SUpZm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SUpZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aRoe4m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aRoe4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xua3a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xua3a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;It seems to have stopped turning white as of 72 hours or so. The orange is gone, but blue remains.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T02:29:35.413" Title="Why is my dyed plaster losing its color?" Tags="|plaster|dye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-01T14:01:39.997" Score="9" ViewCount="3642" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter's dollhouse, after years of fairly rough use by many enthusiastic children, needs some fixing up. In particular, the staircase has split in half. Luckily it's a clean break, and I should be able to glue it very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the same wood glue (Elmer's, if it matters) that I'd use for general household repair (e.g., glueing a wooden chair leg back in place) for fixing this lighter craft wood piece? Based on how light it is, I think that it's balsa or a similar wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T16:30:24.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T18:07:42.437" Title="Is regular &quot;wood glue&quot; suitable for lighter woods (e.g. balsa)?" Tags="|adhesives|medium-selection|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1874" CreationDate="2016-07-01T16:27:35.310" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Absolutely.&lt;/strong&gt; An Elmer's-style wood glue (polyvinyl acetate (PVA), generically known as &lt;em&gt;carpenter's interior wood glue&lt;/em&gt;) is an inexpensive glue which is quite effective for holding balsa wood together.  It does not take a lot of wood glue to make a good bond. In fact, too much glue will create a &lt;em&gt;weak&lt;/em&gt; joint, so use it sparingly (&lt;a href=&quot;http://structure.txdi.org/node/44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to use&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ASKj3.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Beiyx.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you already have it on hand, wood glue is a perfectly suitable choice.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to be more thorough, when balsa wood is used in applications like model building, joint strength and minimizing weight might become more of an issue. In those cases, cyanoacrylates (&quot;super glues&quot;) are often a better choice. Glue accelerators are usually mixed with these products to speed cure time in a product that would otherwise be ill-suited to fill spaces (loosely fitted porous materials).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also polyurethane glues (&quot;gorilla glues&quot;) and epoxies that have different properties based on the project's needs and application. There are actually a lot of glues which work well with balsa wood, so here is a list of adhesives showing their properties, pros and cons, and their recommended application:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://structure.txdi.org/node/40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyvinyl acetate&lt;/a&gt; (PVA or White School Glue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://structure.txdi.org/node/44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aliphatic&lt;/a&gt; (Carpenters Glue, Wood Glue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://structure.txdi.org/node/45&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cyanoacrylate&lt;/a&gt; (CA Glue, Super Glue, Krazy Glue, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://structure.txdi.org/node/41&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Epoxy adhesive&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://structure.txdi.org/node/46&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polyurethane Adhesives&lt;/a&gt; (Gorilla Glue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://structure.txdi.org/node/42&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Contact Cement&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://structure.txdi.org/node/43&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Model Airplane Cement&lt;/a&gt; (Testors)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;This list provided courtesy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://structure.txdi.org/node/28&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diary of a Balsa Goddess&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastEditorUserId="2" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T18:07:42.437" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T18:07:42.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1874" CreationDate="2016-07-01T16:27:42.567" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Wood glues are fine for balsa.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are stronger glues, the added strength is usually unnecessary and strong &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt; should be sufficient. It is hard to generalize but &amp;quot;white&amp;quot; glues, like Elmers, are just PVA glues that are advertised as craft or general glues. There are also yellow PVA glues, which Elmers also makes (and the one I generally use for my indoor projects), that are geared more towards wood. However there is many similarities between them and in &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; cases the yellow is just colour added (FYI white vs. yellow is a large debate.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common adage among wood workers is that the glue joint is stronger than the wood itself and that is true. Also true is that balsa is one of the weakest hardwoods but it is ideal for a great deal of applications.  Go ahead and use either white/yellow glue for this. Some people would even use cyanoacrylate or CA glues, like Super/Crazy glue (as well as some other glues),  for their balsa models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What is more important is &lt;em&gt;how you apply&lt;/em&gt; the glue.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said that you had a clean break which is great. Whether or not this is the case for you I would recommend not removing splinters from the break. You want to glue joint to be as free of gaps as possible. Remove splinters from the break can introduce weak points where the glue might not get the best adhesion. Make sure when you put the staircase back together that you apply glue on both sides of the break enough to cover the entire surface area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible you want to clamp the work, or apply pressure in some way as clamps might be excessive for balsa, to force some of the excess glue out from the joint (you don't need a lot in the joint). Clean the extra that does come out. Let it sit for as long as the glue states on the product label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T16:27:42.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1873" CreationDate="2016-07-01T19:59:09.187" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dye you have linked to is known as Blue 1, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brilliant_Blue_FCF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brilliant Blue FCF&lt;/a&gt;, and is, unlike my comments under the question, a synthetic dye. It is a dye that can be consumed by humans. It is not defined as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redox_indicator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;redox dye&lt;/a&gt; (indicator), so should not react to changes in pH, but it is derived from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methylene_blue#Dye_or_stain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Methylene blue&lt;/a&gt; which does change colour from blue to clear in it's reduced form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot provide a definitive answer on why the dye appears to have broken down but the probable causes are a reaction to the plaster, air, sunlight, or a combination. Nor can I suggest how to stop the colour change once it has started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I can suggest is to use dyes purposely manufactured for use with gypsum, limestone, or portland cement plasters. There are quite a few colours available, such as blue, and can be easily obtained from building supply stores and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cemcraft.com/Designer_Pigment_Collection--category--13.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;websites&lt;/a&gt;. The link I provided is for the UK, but I'm certain that they are available world wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T21:50:15.690" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T21:50:15.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-01T20:17:35.393" Score="6" ViewCount="5572" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/1873/why-is-my-dyed-plaster-losing-its-color&quot;&gt;color of my dyed plaster died&lt;/a&gt;. After I finish up the details and smoothing of this piece, I'd like to restore the color with some paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of paint will work well for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need something that will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold fast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work easily on the semi-porous plaster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not seal in moisture in the piece, or add to it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preferably semi-glossy to glossy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not smooth out my fine edges and detailing, or thicken/round them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T07:57:47.863" Title="What type of paint works well on plaster?" Tags="|paint|plaster|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:21:38.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most waxes and oils are, in themselves, food safe in indeed may of them are in fact food ingredients. The complication is that products used for finishing may contain additives and solvents which are potentially toxic although solvents, which by their nature disappear once the finish is cured tend to be less of a issue than drying agents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice is to look for products which are specifically sold as being food safe this can be confirmed by checking their safety data sheets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solid waxes are generally fine as are are unadulterated plant derived oils such as tung oil and linseed (flax) oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paraffin and carnuba waxes are routinely used as coatings and release agents for confectionery etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get food grade finishing ingredients in raw (eg oils and waxes) form fairly easily from craft and catering  suppliers as they are widely used in confectionery and cosmetics and blend these to make the type of finish you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively many wood finish brand have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axminster.co.uk/chestnut-food-safe-oil-ax377292&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specifically food safe products&lt;/a&gt; as there is clearly a high demand for fruit bowls, chopping boards etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T18:11:12.197" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T18:11:12.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1878" CreationDate="2016-07-03T03:59:06.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you don't want to loose any surface detail in your casting and it's a porous material you are wanting to colour, have you considered using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.concretenetwork.com/fix-concrete-color/dyes-vs-stains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dye or stain&lt;/a&gt; instead of a paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dharmatrading.com/home/color-and-dye-chemistry.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dyes&lt;/a&gt;, you chemically change the colour of your material. Adding no thickness to the item being coloured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have much experience with dyes other than colouring Easter eggs. Using melted wax to mask areas allows for ornate designs to be created. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marthastewart.com/275626/egg-dyeing-101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;demonstration of the process&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-04T06:44:31.093" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T06:44:31.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T05:01:48.000" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have switched from soft pastels to oil pastels and I am curious if I should use papers with more teeth or a bit smoother or maybe average teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do oil pastels work better with paper that has more teeth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="598" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T10:41:50.597" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T14:50:22.087" Title="Do oil pastels work better on paper with more teeth?" Tags="|paper|oil-pastels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1882" CreationDate="2016-07-05T10:44:40.597" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil pastels work well on paper with a fairly high tooth level. It helps it &quot;grab&quot; the color -- a &quot;toothier&quot; paper is better than a smoother paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll borrow this diagram I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/656/30&quot;&gt;in a similar answer&lt;/a&gt;. You want pretty rough paper (but not quite the roughest), but somewhat smoother than you might have used for regular pastels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HQf65.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HQf65.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://helloartsy.com/how-to-choose-quality-drawing-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hello Artsy: How to choose quality drawing paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T10:44:40.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T22:47:25.557" Score="9" ViewCount="2808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to sew together a flag and I was wondering what type of fabric would be best to use. I'm looking for something opaque, thin, non-stretchy, and available in various colors. I initially thought cotton or fleece would be good, but cotton is too stretchy and fleece is too thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T23:13:44.833" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T05:03:32.343" Title="What fabric would work well for a flag?" Tags="|sewing|material-selection|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1884" CreationDate="2016-07-06T04:30:32.777" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usflags.com/flagmaterials.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;commercial flags&lt;/a&gt; are made out of nylon. It's lightweight, durable, and dyes well. Specifically, the flags on many sites are made from DuPont SolarMax™, which is supposed to be nicely color safe in the sun. For inside use, you should probably be fine with a ripstop style nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This heavyweight DuPont SolarMax™ nylon is the most popular and versatile flag fabric available. Nylon's combination of strength and brilliant display, along with its quick drying ability, make it suitable for a wide range of applications. Great in rainy areas, its light weight and close weave enable it to fly in the slightest of breeze, giving the fullest visual effect. Nearly every flag we sell is available in nylon material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options include various types of polyester, which is unlikely to stretch the way the cotton you've been using has,rayon (which is a cellulosic fiber like cotton, but does not have the strength of cotton), and the right type of cotton, which is apparently a &quot;2x2-ply mercerized cotton&quot;, which is specially prepared in such a way that it absorbs more dyes, is more lustrous, and stronger, so it is less likely to stretch or deform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorDisplayName="user1798" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T17:36:41.827" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T17:36:41.827" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1872" CreationDate="2016-07-06T18:47:03.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, let's give it a try with some other creative options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint in the shed, make sure the kitchen unit is placed on a surface that can be transported, allow to dry inside the house.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint partially in the shed, touch the unpainted parts for transport to the house, allow to dry inside the house.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover a large area inside the house with huge sheets of plastic and paint inside the house.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint in the shed, use the heat of a hair dryer to dry the paint. Be sure not to blow your paint away while it's still wet!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the kitchen unit is made of metal you may also choose to heat it up before you start painting. Be careful though, as you don't want to ruin the first layer(s) of paint. And you probably have to paint quickly or repeat the heating while painting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The romantic solution:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6. Put candles in the shed for a local and temporal raise of the temperature.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And if all else fails:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; 7. Wait patiently for the paint to dry. (Like your option 3, but now the waiting is after the painting instead of before the painting and it will reduce your waiting time.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T18:47:03.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T01:46:29.310" Score="19" ViewCount="66749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make small frames and boxes and I like to put in mirror and glass in those projects. In trying to avoid dealing with the question I usually frame in the mirror so that no one will see the clean cut but rough and sharp edges of the glass and mirror. That is not a great idea long term and there are some things where I want a floating top for where the edges will be seen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the general approach is sand paper but I would like to get more information from someone that has done this before. I am more concerned about glass dust and how to deal with while working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the tools and techniques I could employ to clean, smooth and/or polish glass and mirror edges to the point there are safe to touch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T16:19:37.493" Title="What can I do to smooth and polish hand cut glass edges?" Tags="|glass|safety|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2016-07-07T09:16:05.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a lot of glass to smooth, you could buy a glass grinder. These units are quite affordable at about &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000L9C314&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$150 for a small tabletop grinder&lt;/a&gt; or even cheaper at some Chinese online stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are great for smaller pieces of glass but not for large ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="533" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T11:35:50.643" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:35:50.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T03:50:36.233" Score="4" ViewCount="1828" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JeHwP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JeHwP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;snips and shears&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool on the left is a Wezsnip. They call it an easy snip utility shear. Almost identical tools on the web are called...&#xA;Craft snip, Multi snip, Garden tools scissors.&#xA;Very similar ones are called...&#xA;Hardware snip, Shop snip.&#xA;I would like to use a non-trade name to describe them uniquely. Any ideas?&#xA;The tool on the right is a Tullen work cutter. A similar tool is called a multi use shear. What is the difference, if any, between shear and snip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following picture shows what my father refered to as tin snips. No good for craft work.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/heKh4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/heKh4.png&quot; alt=&quot;tinsnips&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T20:24:46.610" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T14:36:04.397" Title="What do you call these snips/shears?" Tags="|cutting|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1893" CreationDate="2016-07-08T06:17:58.413" Score="3" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this on the cover page of some book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdSB5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdSB5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as if the colors have been splashed here. What is the way to  make such painting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T08:11:00.140" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T16:55:41.580" Title="What is way to make the painting where it seems as if colors in it have been splashed on it?" Tags="|painting|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1882" CreationDate="2016-07-08T06:22:48.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil pastels work well on many surfaces, so I would suggest you try a variety of papers and other substrates and see which you like best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A usefull site discussing this topic can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.explore-oil-pastels-with-robert-sloan.com/papers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T06:22:48.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1889" CreationDate="2016-07-08T07:42:33.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know these as &lt;strong&gt;Tin Snips&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Tinner(')s Snips&lt;/strong&gt;, and are identifiable as such because of the symmetry of the handles and blades, the wide aperture between the blades, and that the handles are longer than the blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between snips &amp;amp; shears? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Snips are shears that are used for cutting metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a snip is a type of shear. And a shear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is a cutting instrument in which two blades move past each other, like scissors but typically larger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T07:42:33.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1890" CreationDate="2016-07-08T15:35:10.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process is called working wet into wet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wet into wet means the paint medium (be it water colour, acrylic paint, oil paint, ink) is applied to a surface still &quot;wet&quot; with solvent/medium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solvent used to apply the previous layer of paint is still present on the surface where the new layer is being applied. The solvent has not yet evaporated (or the oil oxidized). With the solvent still present on the surface any additional paint added to the surface will dissolve as it makes contact with the solvent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the surface the paint is applied to different effects are achieved. Paper, wood panel and canvas are very different surfaces on which paint can be applied. If the solvent is infused into the painting surface (such as the fibre weave of a canvas or paper) then the paint will, through capillary action, be drawn into the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solvent that only sits on the surface (such as when applied to a hard panel board or onto dried paint surface) will only draw the applied paint to where the solvent is present. The wetter the surface (more solvent present) the paint will dissolve further into the surface. But since it's solvent the paint will be further diluted and thinned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Controlling the wetness of the surface controls how far the applied paint is allowed to diffuse and expand from the point of application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T15:47:29.757" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T15:47:29.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1896" CreationDate="2016-07-08T22:10:27.903" Score="4" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;The art stores generally have pre-made white canvas on small wooden frames. They're not the cheapest, but they're easy to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if this canvas is different than buying canvas by the yard (or however else you'd get it). Is it pre-treated, lower quality? What are the advantages of it besides ease, and what are the drawbacks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T22:14:33.363" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T00:27:08.937" Title="Is the canvas used in pre-made packs the same as plain canvas pieces?" Tags="|medium-selection|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T22:17:18.380" Score="7" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out in rural country, it's pretty easy to come across animal bones, especially skulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to have them on display, or carve them, what's the best way to make sure they're safe to have out? That is, to make sure they're sanitary and won't rot over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T19:41:40.530" Title="How can I safely prepare bones for crafts?" Tags="|safety|preparation|bone|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1894" CreationDate="2016-07-09T00:00:52.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they are the same. But there are &lt;em&gt;A LOT&lt;/em&gt; of different ready made canvases to choose from, prices ranging from pennies a square inch to tens of dollars per square inch. Price depends very much on materials and construction that went into building the pre-stretched canvas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most important thing to know is what your own needs are as an artist. If you like to paint on burlap then buy burlap canvas. If you like the feel of Belgian linen buy Belgian linen. Once you know what your needs are then seek out what will satisfy that need and buy it at the best possible price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get to know the artist you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get to know the prices people will be charging you to be that artist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a list of the things I like to look at when buying store bought ready made pre-stretched canvases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The frame the canvas is sitting on, what material is it made from, how are the corner joints made (are they fixed or free floating), are there cross braces, lap joints on the cross braces? Learn the language of carpentry.&lt;a href=&quot;http://oldsite.justpaint.org/archive/JamesBernstein/NumberFour.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the material stretched across the frame, Burlap, Cotton or Linen? Is this a material I like to paint on? What's the weave pattern and thread count? Did I like the results of my work the last time I painted on this fabric? Learn how to identify fabric weaves.&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tailorstore.com/ca/en/fabricinformation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How was the canvas stretched and fastened? Are the staples (or tacks) on the back (gallery wrap &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallery_wrap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;) or on the sides of the frame? Are the staples stainless or galvanized? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How was the surface sealed and primed? How many layers of primer was put on? What was the primer? Do I like painting on this type of primer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/tips-and-techniques/other-tips-and-techniques/all-about-priming-canvas-us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the canvas on sale and do I have good experience with it? When I bough this canvas the last time did I end up liking the results? What did I pay the last time? And what is the price today? Am I getting screwed or is this a good price? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.investopedia.com/ask/answers/081114/how-does-warren-buffett-choose-what-companies-buy.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a huge draw back buying something you don't like, at a price you could have gotten cheaper elsewhere, that meets none of your likes or needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T00:27:08.937" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T00:27:08.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1889" CreationDate="2016-07-09T06:57:52.347" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A search on the internet reveals that the tool in picture 3 is known as &quot;tin snips&quot; by Fuller, ABM, Harbor, and Shefield.&#xA;Bahco, Ideal, Stanley and TTI equate tin snips with aviation snips.&#xA;There is no currently accepted adjective that describes the first 2 tools above.&#xA;For the time being I propose &quot;craft snips&quot; as nearest to their use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T06:57:52.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2016-07-09T08:06:43.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can relate to your frustration. I often am irritated by poor instructions even in videos. It is important to understand all the terminology, symbols, basic folds, and to make precise as possible folds. I like videos that animate the folds forward and backward for each step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With video instructions, the stop and rewind can be done repeatedly. Watching multiple times has been the only way I got through some projects. I also have thought that it would be most helpful to be shown live. It would have saved me hours of time if I were learning from a live person. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way I have learned more complicated projects is that when I get to a part I am unsure of is to fold it with my best guess and, I soon find out if it works or not. If not I refold to my problem spot and repeat the process of using my best guess until I get it right. Sometimes with the same piece of paper but, it is usually best to use a fresh piece of paper. The more projects you complete though the less you will find yourself having wrong guesses.   I say if you want to run but have barely walked then go ahead and try running because it does not hurt anything but, keep up the walking. Before you know it, you will be able to run with no problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="619" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T03:29:03.237" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T03:29:03.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1900" CreationDate="2016-07-09T08:39:31.063" Score="6" ViewCount="2354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried several types of glue but, have yet to find the perfect glue for my needs. For instance, I'm creating a miniature tree and need to glue multiple small leaves onto a branch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want runny or slow drying glue that the leaves slip off before the glue dries or nearly dries. I often get a few leaves on to have them all fall off as I try placing another leaf. I then wind up having to glue them all back on all over again. I don't want to have to just glue a couple on then wait anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes or more before I can glue anymore on. Sometimes I have to sit and hold on one leaf at a time until it dries enough so that it doesn't slip out of place or come off all together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the glue to dry clear and matte. It will also have to work with card stock, bond paper, brown paper(such as used to wrap packages for mailing). Sometimes painted with acrylics or water color paint. Also I run into the problem of the piece I'm trying to glue sticking to my fingers or instruments as I lift of the piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot glue doesn't work because I have lots of small pieces in one area and it will accumulate to much glue not to mention other issues with it. The glue I want works like this: I put glue on a piece stick it where it goes on 3D objects and it stays put while gluing other pieces next to or on top of that piece. It seems like it would be real simple but, what it seems to be and what it is are 2 different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="619" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T11:55:08.093" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T07:04:37.127" Title="Which glue works best for paper sculptures" Tags="|paper|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1899" CreationDate="2016-07-09T12:05:29.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your criteria the glue I would think should be tried to see if it fits your needs is &lt;strong&gt;cyanoacrylate glue&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;CA glue&lt;/strong&gt;. This can be commonly refereed by brand names like Super glue or Krazy glue as well. They are advertised and being very versatile when it comes to applicable mediums and have very fast drying times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at one brands &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;technical specifications&lt;/a&gt; as a base line we can see that it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dries in 10-45 seconds, no clamping required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most CA glues dry at or near those times as well. Careful working with the stuff as you a likely to get some on your skin and it bonds skin very easily (Recently used it to repair my glasses).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what you could so with this is use it as a placement glue. Using a little just to get the leaf in place so that you can continue with a longer setting glue without concern of the leaf moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Would clamping options apply here?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how your leaves are made nor how they touch the tree but have you tried clamping options instead of looking for a fast setting glue? Some simple like paper clips( which you can mold to conform to shape if need be) or even something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=office+clips&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=1085&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiV95i-q-bNAhVE7SYKHdFmCs0Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=binder+clips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;binder clips&lt;/a&gt;? Perhaps if you have something small and light weight to help hold the leaf in place your choice of adhesive might no longer be a concern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T12:45:06.277" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T12:45:06.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2290" CreationDate="2016-07-09T17:39:22.900" Score="9" ViewCount="8679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried to mimic to translucent technique that people use on really detailed Jack O' Lanterns, such as this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiTab.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiTab.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Death star pumpkin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, whenever I try I either can't get the husk thin enough, or I go too thin and bust through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there certain tools that help with this? I have a lot of carving tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do certain pumpkins work better? How should I select one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is this about lighting? Do I just need brighter candles/lights to shine through the the pumpkin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lighting isn't great here. This was my last attempt last Halloween. I wanted the teeth to be translucent. As you can see, only a couple bottom teeth have any semblance of being see-through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7kdL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7kdLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scary pumpkin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T18:31:23.540" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T12:56:25.060" Title="How can I get that translucent effect on Jack O' Lanterns?" Tags="|carving|pumpkin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1901" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:16:28.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously you need to remove more material in order to allow light to shine though. You know that much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, whenever I try I either can't get the husk thin enough, or I go too thin and bust through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need are depth checkers spaced around the surface of the lantern where you are trying to achieve this effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Toothpicks&lt;/strong&gt; would be an easy suggestion for this. Put the pick in and feel the the inside of the pumpkin for where it is going to come through. You don't want the toothpick protruding the inside. That would negate its purpose as a depth check. You know it is inside enough once you barely feel it with your fingers. Putting it too far through might make it move easier which would again reduce its effectiveness. With enough toothpicks you can then use the portion that is outside of the pumpkin to gauge the thickness near the toothpick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I cannot find a picture of this being done to a pumpkin (yet!) a &lt;em&gt;similar principal&lt;/em&gt; is used when making a quinzee. They use sticks to make sure the whole structure is of the same thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGjyx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGjyx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Building a quinzee with sticks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely, the tactic I described above, is what was used in your first picture.   Look at where you see the pinholes of light coming though. I have used MSPaint with awesome circles to draw attention to the holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcGuy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcGuy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Free hand drawn circles&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T18:28:43.557" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T18:28:43.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:56:40.990" Score="4" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my wife tells me that I have too many t-shirts (she is not wrong) as I don't wear them all fast enough before they get washed. Since I wear my favorites more often some just never see action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally I will give some away but I have been fascinated with the idea of making my own crafts from that material e.g. yarn. I suppose I would just need scissors to cut it up but what can I do to make the longest strands possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good way to determine if the cuts are too thin or not? I ask because the thinner I make it the longer strands I will get but the trade off might be strength. Too wide and it wouldn't make for good yarn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the thickness of the shirt matter? Not all shirts are made from the exact same material thickness. Is this limited to just jersey knit fabrics (That is typically what you see pictured with t-shirt yarn)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T19:04:47.957" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T15:25:25.973" Title="How can I make yarn from an old t-shirt and does the material matter?" Tags="|yarn|clothing|upcycling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1921" CreationDate="2016-07-09T21:17:20.103" Score="6" ViewCount="1793" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine keeps bees, and asked for help cleaning the beeswax he harvested this year. I figured out a solar oven and filtering setup which melts and cleans the wax. However, I've now got a big chunk of (clean) wax solidified in a plastic bowl, and I'm struggling to get it out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a great trial run, but I'm planning to re-melt this to pour into some ice cube trays, in order to have smaller (easier to use) blocks. &lt;strong&gt;How should I prepare the plastic mold so the blocks will release easily?&lt;/strong&gt; I'll hopefully be using the same technique when we eventually make candles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T20:30:13.473" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T20:34:16.630" Title="How do I prepare a plastic mold to easily release beeswax?" Tags="|preparation|wax|mold-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1919" CreationDate="2016-07-09T22:51:59.113" Score="5" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;We tend to save the cardboard tubes from toilet paper and paper towels for crafts, like play binoculars and telescopes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outsides are easy to decorate, the insides not so much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting is maybe doable, but a brush would hit at the wrong angle. Instead, I've thought about decorating paper and rolling it up inside. I'm struggling with how to affix this paper. If I glue the back of it, it'd be tough to get inside without wrinkling. I'd rather not tape along the seam, as it's ugly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to get the decorated paper inside the tube? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T00:37:10.517" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T18:08:02.107" Title="Decorate the inside of a tube?" Tags="|kids-crafts|cardboard|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1906" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-09T22:55:02.570" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T22:55:02.570" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T22:55:02.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1907" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-09T22:55:02.570" Score="0" Body="For questions about crafts that are generally safe and engaging for children because of the materials and tools used, or because of their difficulty level. " OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T22:55:02.570" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T22:55:02.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1908" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-09T22:57:48.443" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T22:57:48.443" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T22:57:48.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1909" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-09T22:57:48.443" Score="0" Body="For questions about utilizing plastic, or materials meant to be used with plastic. Questions about specific types of plastic, such as PVC or ABS, should also use those tags." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T22:57:48.443" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T22:57:48.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1910" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-09T23:00:30.273" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T23:00:30.273" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T23:00:30.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1911" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-09T23:00:30.273" Score="0" Body="Determining the type of material used in an artwork or craft" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-08-22T16:42:59.030" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T16:42:59.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1912" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-09T23:03:06.087" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T23:03:06.087" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T23:03:06.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1913" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-09T23:03:06.087" Score="0" Body="For questions about using pumpkins for crafts, such as decorating or carving Jack O' Lanterns. Examples include choosing tool, preserving the pumpkin and executing a design." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T23:03:06.087" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T23:03:06.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1914" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-09T23:04:57.893" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T23:04:57.893" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T23:04:57.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1915" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-09T23:04:57.893" Score="0" Body="For questions about using legally-acquired bone in projects. They may be about human or animal bone, or even teeth." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T23:04:57.893" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T23:04:57.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1922" CreationDate="2016-07-09T23:17:47.817" Score="4" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a basic kaleidoscope out of cheap materials, such as cardboard tubes and foil confetti and colored beads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I'm not sure how to make the end of the kaleidoscope that would actually hold the objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of using two coins of cheap plastic that I may have to cut myself, but I don't know how to get them to stay inside the tube. For instance, if I used a hot glue gun, it'd would probably build up in the gap between the plastic pieces and prevent the confetti from turning properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what can I do? I'm okay if there's some cheap, pre-made object like this pill case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PqhIrm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PqhIrm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it needs to be transparent, not just translucent. I also don't know how to search effectively for that type of object, or if there's a similar, easy-to-source craft object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't need to make an end that rotates. I'm planning on just having the kids turn the entire tube. I just need the part/parts that hold the confetti.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T15:44:04.043" Title="How to make the end of a kaleidoscope?" Tags="|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1920" CreationDate="2016-07-09T22:49:16.393" Score="2" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Angry Birds birthday party and the honor fell to me to create the giant slingshot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LJCXV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LJCXV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;here it is after paint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ztcaghgk2clkl0x/AAASCwVvGT2cRVvzUJpOjph7a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more pictures&lt;/a&gt; for your pleasure or entertainment (because I may, in fact, be an idiot). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have some sections coming from the back to stabilize it and a piece off the front. I think those are fine. But I pulled back on it a little and the vertical piece came unglued from both the bottom and the top &quot;T&quot; sections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have lost confidence in the 90 degree elbows as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I fasten this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I immediately think of drilling and bolting it but I'm concerned about cracking the pipe. Then I read about a better adhesive I could try called &lt;a href=&quot;https://amzn.com/B000XZTD14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E 6000&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the adhesive site thistothat.com &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&amp;amp;this=Plastic&amp;amp;that=Plastic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mentions&lt;/a&gt; a thing called LePage's 5 Minute Epoxy. Anybody have experience with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need major help! What should I do? Any advice appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also:&lt;/strong&gt; ability to hold water is not of interest to me, obviously (I hope).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Modified Plan&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be removing and re-gluing/replacing some of these with primer and repainting but here is the big idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBqyo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBqyo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swap these pieces. I make the opening pointing down. Then I drive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-5-in-x-1-5-in-x-6-ft-Heavy-Duty-Steel-Green-Painted-Fence-T-Post-901176EB/204331916&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these stakes&lt;/a&gt; in the ground and position the slingshot so that the stakes poke up there into these holes. At least 2' of stake will go up the arms. This should be enough to reinforce while still keeping the look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How it happened&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key lesson learned: Leave time for testing. So my goal was to launch lightweight playground balls from the slingshot into boxes, using a colander as the thing to hold the balls and BigBands (like the kind used to secure the can  liner in a garbage can) for the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So because the launcher was being used in an already muddy area the homeowner (mother-in-law) did not want the stakes. So Me and another family member braced against the post. The glue may have held but the creaking sounds that the pipes gave, made me uneasy about the pipes surviving the tension. I will test with the stakes in my own yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem was the colander with drawer handle was cracked and didn't survive the first three launches. The back up colander was a close fit to the balls so that when pulled on it &quot;ovaled&quot; enough to keep the balls from launching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing was a success in the end because we added a hand towel over the top of the colander, which made the pocket more shallow. It was harder to keep the balls from rolling out but it worked! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also instead of piggies we used real children to bring down the boxes on. It was their idea and all the boxes were empty. So no tears there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am marking the first answer as correct because, well it was true. And thank you for all your suggestions. If I had it to do over again I would start with something that looked more like a soccer goal launching the balls up and through the area where the ball would be kicked in soccer. It wouldn't look as &quot;Angry Birdy&quot; but when you can't anchor your base into the ground it's a better approach. Also it could be used indoors for church events ect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="623" OwnerDisplayName="getthemike" LastEditorUserId="623" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T15:24:00.277" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T15:24:00.277" Title="Giant slingshot made from 2&quot; PVC. Cement insufficient. How to fasten for load?" Tags="|adhesives|pvc|props|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2077" CreationDate="2016-07-10T00:42:43.833" Score="3" ViewCount="2661" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has this small stained glass decoration she made in high school that has been around forever. For almost that same amount of time there are a couple of break in one of the pieces. The pictures below are the same except the second one has arrows to give focus to the breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gF6UI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gF6UI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hanging glass with fractures&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JnFCW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JnFCW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hanging glass with fractures and arrows for focus&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be hard to tell but there is some glass missing in one of the breaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, is there something that can actually be done about this? I suppose I could put some solder on top of it to give the illusion that its more than one piece of glass but there is nothing for it to adhere to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a possibly that the glass could be removed maybe or part of it removed? That might be more effort than it is worth for this project but that does not mean the solution is any less valid here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix or hide this broken glass on my wife project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2019-12-28T23:15:28.673" Title="How can I repair broken glass inside a stained glass project?" Tags="|glass|stained-glass|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1905" CreationDate="2016-07-10T00:57:05.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what you intend to decorate the inside of your tubes with, I think the solution is to apply the adhesive on the &lt;em&gt;inside first&lt;/em&gt; and then decorate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking at a way to get paint brush bristles angled at 90 degrees either via a kludge, like an elastic, or a commercial product but I had issues searching for &quot;90 degree brush head&quot;. What little I did find was either too large or unrealistic for this application. That's when it hit me! There is a simpler solution likely already in your possession or at least cheap to acquire for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7b4ocm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7b4ocm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Toothbrush&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A toothbrush already has the 90 degree angle that would make for easy adhesive application on the inside of a tube. You basic white glue would be fine here for this. Even though it is non toxic I am sure you would prefer to get a dedicated toothbrush as supposed to dual purposing your daily one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get a decent amount of glue inside I would roll up the paper, that you plan on placing inside, smaller than that of the toilet paper roll itself. Gently put it in the tube and once it is inside all the way you should be able to release it. It will open most of the way and a little massaging will help get it in place the rest of the way. This should help keep glue from getting on the paper where it will be seen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using paper that is longer than your tube would be useful as you can adjust it from both ends without having to put your hand in too far. Excess paper can easily be removed with scissors or knives after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to use something other than paper, like glitter for instance, it would just be a matter of sprinkling it inside the tube and letting it stick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T00:57:05.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2016-07-10T03:06:53.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to be the bearer of bad news but 2&quot; PVC will not handle the stress that a working slingshot goes through. The best fix for what you have would be under the comment Aloysius D mentioned about joining the top to the bottom with 45 degree braces. I think it would still want to roll backwards on you on the draw to use it. That's when it will fail at the joints where the vertical meets the base. The joint will be in tension as compared to rolling out of the tee connectors when there are no braces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good old fashioned tree limb in the shape you need bolted to a base and braced might be better, at least cheaper than one made of 2&quot; threaded metal pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T03:06:53.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1904" CreationDate="2016-07-10T11:58:39.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you're looking for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Release_agent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mold release agent&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples of release agents are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pamcookingspray.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pam Cooking Spray&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Olive Oil applied with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Misto-Brushed-Aluminum-Olive-Sprayer/dp/B00004SPZV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spray pump&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Industrial Mold Release Agents such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://mclube.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McLube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above mold release agents are applied in the same manner. Starting with a clean mold, spray on a thin layer of the mold release agent into the mold, covering all the surfaces of the mold. Let it sit for a few minutes before adding your compound to the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Careful not to spray too much mold release as the excess can mix with your casting compound and affect the surface finish of the cast part. A light application is all that is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T20:34:16.630" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T20:34:16.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2016-07-10T15:07:40.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about those small plastic clear round takeaway restaurant containers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qj42Cm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qj42Cm.png&quot; alt=&quot;takeaway restaurant containers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/popular/food-container-disposable-plastic-transparent.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AliExpress&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are clear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a lid (also clear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are wedge shaped (making it easier to insert into the end of the tube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the lid accessed from the outside you could then change what's in the kaleidoscope. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could pre-make different containers with different confetti and glue the lid down. The kids could then swap different containers into the tubes as they want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T15:44:04.043" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T15:44:04.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1925" CreationDate="2016-07-10T19:44:43.333" Score="8" ViewCount="3079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made this flexible geometry toy based on one I saw in a learning store. You can bend it into different shapes, and it's fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, all I had on hand was some yarn to make the inside support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned that the yarn is eventually going to snap, or the knot is going to unravel. It's also not water-proof, so it might not be that great for extended kid use due to the messes they make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like something that: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is strong, so it doesn't snap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has some flex, so the toy can bend like it's supposed to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is somewhat waterproof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can easily be knotted in a way that won't unravel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be able to have at least 3 strands of it threaded through a 4mm wide straw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the toy, to give you an idea of my requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wcg3hm.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wcg3hm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GrPdCm.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GrPdCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vJcNtm.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vJcNtm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T12:02:51.727" Title="What's a flexible, strong string or yarn I can use in this toy?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2016-07-10T19:47:34.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you want to do with the yarn eventually? Just like any kind of yarn that comes in different thicknesses, you can cut your T-shirts in any size you like. So decide on the thickness based on your project, or on the thickness of the (crocheting/knitting) needles that you'll use when you work with your T-shirt yarn.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As for the strenght of the yarn: when you've crafted your project, it's unlikely that one single thread will have to endure a lot of force. And just like your T-shirt didn't fall apart because it has been made of very thin threads, it's unlikely your project will. So you can go as thin as you want, although I don't think it will be easy to find a beginning/end of the original thread and end up with a lot of sewing thread. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T19:47:34.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1923" CreationDate="2016-07-10T19:59:25.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of yarn or thread, would &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fishing_line&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fishing line&lt;/a&gt; work for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different strengths available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is flexible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is made to be in water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be knotted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variety of diameters available. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T10:21:17.773" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T10:21:17.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1923" CreationDate="2016-07-10T22:04:13.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lil drop of superglue on the knot will lock it down, the liquid kind, not a gel. It wicks into the fibers. Superglue, or any cyanoacrylate-based glue works great on fishing line as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe try mason'-s line at a hardware store. It's the string they stretch and place a hanging level on. It usually comes in hot pink or other bright colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="630" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T00:19:17.403" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T00:19:17.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1905" CreationDate="2016-07-10T23:35:45.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a brush years ago that has a bend in the handle (about 45 degrees) that might work for toilet paper tubes (not long enough for paper towel tubes), but it'd be very, very difficult to use with any precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend one of two things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use construction paper or other relatively stiff paper, and curl it up to place inside. You don't need to glue the whole surface.  You could just apply glue or even tape at the ends, and it'll hold fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to affix the whole thing, you'll want to use spray adhesive. Let it dry for a few minutes, and it'll behave like a giant Post-it Note.  Curl it up, sticky-side-out, at a smaller diameter, and then use some sort of dowel or rod to unroll it and burnish it inside the tube.  You could even wrap it around a dowel or tube of a slightly smaller diameter (eg, 3/4&quot; PVC pipe), and then just unwrap / unroll it inside the tube you're decorating.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I noticed that Matt mentioned glitter -- I was actually thinking sand art ... but for that, you just need to smear the glue in there, it doesn't have to be very pretty -- you could wad up a paper towel and push it through with a rod to spread the glue, then pour in colored sand, glitter, confetti, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="631" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T17:39:25.753" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T17:39:25.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2016-07-11T00:00:43.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider a hot wire cutter.  Professional models aren't cheap (although you can rig one up, or even rig up something useful w/ a soldering iron and chunk of flattened coat hanger) , but it works really well for the type of cuts you're looking to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know someone who works with polystyrene foam, they likely have one.  (it's rather common in terrain modelling -- either miniature-based wargamers, or model train folks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="631" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T00:00:43.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1923" CreationDate="2016-07-11T00:16:39.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like nylon cord could be used. If more flex is desirable then a braided rubber cord. Some rubber is of poor quality, becoming brittle after a few years and breaking easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T00:16:39.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2016-07-11T00:23:20.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need 45 degree pipe -- you might be able to reinforce it enough with guy wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be better if the base were an 'H' shape, so that you could go from each corner of the base up to where the rubber tubing would be attached.  What what you have currently, you might still be able to get away attaching two from each upright to the bottom of the 'Y' base, and one each to the top.  Because of how the guy lines would obstruct, you'd likely have to have the top of the Y be towards that target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="631" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T00:23:20.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2016-07-11T00:23:42.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A safety letter opener would hold the straw open and the blade is hidden. Would be a safe way to slice the straws open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYNEi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYNEi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ex. of a safety letter opener slitter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T00:23:42.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22" CreationDate="2016-07-11T04:11:42.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of paper cutting and, I have exstensive experience using a crafting knife. I also love cutting detailed snowflakes. I'm wondering if you have tried using a small pair of really sharp scissors that come to a point and the cutting surface cuts all the way to the tip of the point. It was a god send when I discovered the exsistence of this type of scissor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="619" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T04:11:42.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2016-07-11T06:03:53.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would mark and cut strips 1cm width on the bias ( so diagonally when the t-shirt is laid flat. Alternatively, you could cut on the horizontal to minimise wastage but the yarn produced will not be as stretchy as that cut on the diagonal. Have you any idea what you want to make?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T06:03:53.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="85" CreationDate="2016-07-11T06:14:14.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is known by several names such as paper cutting, paper carving, folk cutting, Wycinanki(Polish),  Schereneschnitte (In German meaning scissor cuts), and Knippen ( by the Dutch). In Japan Mon Kiri involves folding and cutting paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 105CE Chinese invented paper like or simalar to what we call paper. It was considered a valued commodity and wasn't cut until around 600CE. By the 13th century paper cutting was done all around China. They kept the making of paper a secret until around 610CE when monks brought the know how to Japan. When it spread to the Middle East, Bagdad became the first place to build mills ( around 794CE). In the 11th century people in Turkey were cutting paper and by the 16th century they even had paper carver guilds. The Christian churh tried for centuries to boycott the use of paper because they thought Muslims were trying to take over trade and culture through paper. The Jewish living and trading alongside Muslims had easy access to paper and began paper cutting for religious and mystical reasons. In the 15th century when the printing press was invented the Christians changed their view bout paper. Turks and Egyptians sold paper to Europe. It was expensive at first and paper cutting was only done for religeous reasons then. Germans brought paper cutting to America in the late 17th century. So, paper cutting traveled from China to Asia, to Europe, and then to North America. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon has some great books on paper cutting. I reccomend Creative Paper Cutting by Chong-Ah Hwang, Paper Cutting Book: Contemporary Artist, Timeless Crafts by Laura Heyenga, The Book of Paper Cutting by Chris Rich and Scherenschnitte by Susan Schlapfer-Geiser Their are many other books on the subject but, these are a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="619" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T06:14:14.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="83" CreationDate="2016-07-11T09:00:15.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For 10 years I worked with alcohol based paints in my temporary tattoo biz. Besides using an airbrush I often used paint brushes of different quality. I would not use the turpentine to clean your brushes. Use instead isopropyl alcohol. I used it on sable brushes with no ill effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="619" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T19:10:29.577" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T19:10:29.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1942" CreationDate="2016-07-11T11:39:04.600" Score="11" ViewCount="3475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this old colouring book that made pseudo stained glass. You colour it in however you want and then tear the page out and place it on the window. Certainly faster and cheaper then actual stained glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had already finished most of the book so there was nothing for my kids to do. There must be something that I could use in place of whatever material the book was made from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use that I can give to my kids to make fake/faux/pseudo stained glass? What tools would best compliment that suggestion? Pencil crayons, markers etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2021-03-07T23:51:05.333" Title="What materials can I use for faux stained glass?" Tags="|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1937" CreationDate="2016-07-11T11:52:43.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be inclined to use oiled paper.  I suspect you'd want to color it first, then oil it ... but I'm not sure what types of colors would stick best for this application, and/or give the proper translucent effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something with less effort (and possibly mess) -- find a place that sells drafting vellum, and use colored pencil on it (as it doesn't fill 100%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="631" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T11:52:43.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T12:30:01.237" Score="5" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my first set of needles and I plan to start some felting. Going to put a face on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://overwatch.wikia.com/wiki/Pachimari&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pachimari&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needle felting is done by repeatably stabbing felt or roving to tangle fibers. There is risk with those repetitive motions. Now, I have seen tutorials, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbbUbrxWPt4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one that created a felted purse&lt;/a&gt;,  that used a foam pad or brush as a work surface. That seems fine and dandy but what about smaller things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very tempting to pick up the work and use my hands for more control but I am not likely the idea of stabbing myself. Is using the foam pads and/or brushes the only way to accomplish this? If I wanted to make something small like a mushroom...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fyWd.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fyWd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mushroom specimens&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/149392912608751716/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pintrest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I am wrong about how to do felting on that scale my question still stands. What safety precautions should I observe while needle felting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2023-02-26T01:08:14.217" Title="What can I do to protect my hands while felting?" Tags="|safety|felting-needles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1937" CreationDate="2016-07-11T13:58:04.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how realistic some people would like faux stained glass windows to be and what one's budget is, there are several solutions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea is to buy some clear plastic form any arts and crafts store or fabric store. With scissors, one can cut out the size of your desired false window pane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then with a pencil one could measure out or trace the desired patterns to be placed on the false window from colored films, which if desired to could be cut to size to be simply taped to an actual window. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make them realistic one could perhaps use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decorativefilm.com/frosted#Category_50&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;frosted decorated film&lt;/a&gt; in various colors. The cut out pieces are simply ready to be put into place once cut out and pealed freed of their protective backing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some color samples from Decorated Films. My wife actually tried this very idea with these films some years back using clear plastic as a backing and then taped the design over real glass with some scotch tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/570UB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/570UB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Yellow Film&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yellow Frosted Film&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0SsU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0SsU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Green Film&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green Frosted Film&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xK1pH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xK1pH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blue Film&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue Frosted Film&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Free samples are available from the product details for each film. You may order up to 5 different free samples per project. - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decorativefilm.com/faq&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Decorative Films&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T13:58:04.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2016-07-12T01:40:25.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider a small piece of leather.  I've seen leather pot holders that would likely work, but any suitable size piece of suede of sufficient thickness would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also wear a heavy leather glove on the hand that you're holding the piece you're felting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note -- I don't do felting, but I've done plenty of other needlework projects ... including hand-sewing leather, so I know needles don't go easily into it unless it's that thin stuff they use for driving gloves and such)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="631" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T01:40:25.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1937" CreationDate="2016-07-12T04:00:04.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to make something your kids could color with pencils, crayons, or &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; markers, get &lt;strong&gt;tracing paper&lt;/strong&gt; and draw stained-glass designs on it with a &lt;strong&gt;black permanent marker&lt;/strong&gt;. (If you do the coloring with markers, either wait several days between doing the black parts and coloring them in, or flip the tracing paper around: do the black &quot;leading&quot; on one side of the paper, and the coloring on the other side. Otherwise, no matter how &quot;permanent&quot; you permanent marker, the colored markers can cause it to smudge.) The advantage of this method is that it's pretty cheap, and it will probably end up very similar to the coloring book you have, at least if your coloring book is similar to what I've encountered before. The disadvantage of this method is that it doesn't &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; look like stained glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to go to the craft store and visit their &lt;strong&gt;faux stained glass section&lt;/strong&gt;. Yes, there is such a thing. :) It involves clear plastic sheets as a base, a faux leading that's basically black dimensional paint in a squeeze bottle (i.e. you pipe it on almost like cake frosting instead of actually painting with it), and clear acrylic paints to go between your leading lines. Again, the process is to paint/pipe the designs with the &quot;leading&quot;, wait for that to dry, and then paint the designs. The advantage of this method is that it looks very, very similar to actual stained glass without involving cutting glass and soldering and working with actual lead (Pb). The disadvantage is that it gets pretty expensive. You can reduce the expense somewhat if you can find cheaper sources of clear plastic. For example, see if you can find plain clear plastic plates (like from the party goods store).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T19:56:32.967" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:56:32.967" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2016-07-12T13:08:28.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are very similar to notan drawings. Artists use notan drawings to quickly determine whether or not their finished painting will have an interesting pattern of dark and light values. It is a valuable tool for establishing an interesting composition in a painting. Arthur Wesley Dow wrote about notan in the 19th century. His book is out of copyright available for free download from the Internet. Notan originated in Japanese art. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="640" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T13:08:28.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:02:08.053" Score="8" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make an infant-sized version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://us.schachenmayr.com/free-patterns/crystal-ice-dc1015/Crystal%20Ice.pdf&quot;&gt;this hat&lt;/a&gt; (PDF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current pattern (assuming correct gauge) makes a hat with an 18.5&quot; (47cm) circumference. It seems that a common size for a newborn/infant hat is around 12.5&quot; (32cm), which is about 1/3 smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pattern calls for  using a 6.5 mm crochet hook but I'd like to use the same size hook that I'm already using (for the blanket) which is a 5 mm hook. To make this slightly more confusing, the &quot;materials&quot; section calls for a 6.5 mm hook but the &quot;gauge&quot; section calls for 6 mm, so I'm not sure which of the two is actually correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pattern gauge is:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;13 stitches and 11 rows = 4&quot; (10 cm) with a 6 mm hook&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yarn I'm using has the following factory gauge info:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;18 stitches = 4&quot; (10 cm) with a 5 mm hook&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this info (and assuming I crochet perfectly on gauge), do I actually need to adjust the pattern at all or is the hook size/yarn difference sufficient to make it small enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do need to adjust the pattern, the following info may be useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hat is worked in rounds from the brim to the top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each of the first 19 rounds consists of 50 stitches, grouped in 5s, so 10 repeats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decrease rows are where my main concerns lie. It's simple to reduce the main rounds by 5 or 10 or 15 stitches to make the circumference smaller but I'm not sure how this will affect the decreases at the top of the hat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For balance, it seems like I may also need to reduce the number of rounds but, again, this may depend on whether the hook change is sufficient to reduce the size or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T02:29:23.157" Title="How can I resize this crocheted hat pattern for an infant?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2222" CreationDate="2016-07-13T19:54:23.863" Score="5" ViewCount="2617" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make a post card, I like to stick small pieces of paper on a card. I put glue stick on the whole paper, because if the corners don't have enough glue, it will not be strong enough. However, when I stick the paper on the card, often some glue comes from beneath on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tool can be used to remove glue stick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people use a cotton tissue, a toothpick or a craft knife. What are pros and cons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T18:45:59.333" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T13:04:01.033" Title="How to remove excess glue from around the edges of paper?" Tags="|paper|tool-selection|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-13T22:48:41.110" Score="5" ViewCount="2832" Body="&lt;p&gt;(See related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/1949/30&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was given a necklace with a cute geode pendant. Love the color, but it doesn't fit me well -- I don't like the length it hangs at, and I don't like that the stone is horizontal instead of vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a fairly thin silver chain, connected to a couple of loops which connect to embedded rings in the rock itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fc8UI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fc8UI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up picture of pendant&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make this longer? Do I need to replace the full chain (somehow) or can I extend what I've got?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T17:14:07.900" Title="How can I make this necklace longer?" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T17:02:17.043" Score="5" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;(See related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/1947/30&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was given a necklace with a cute geode pendant. Love the color, but I don't like that the stone is horizontal instead of vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain connects to two embedded rings in the rock itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fc8UI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fc8UI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up picture of pendant&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to to re-ring the stone even though it's electroplated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T22:54:16.457" Title="How can I make this pendant vertical?" Tags="|lapidary|jewelry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1944" CreationDate="2016-07-14T21:05:25.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, you need to figure out your gauge (sts &amp;amp; rows) using your #5 hook and the yarn you want. Using your baby inches, see how far off you are from the pattern. Use that as a rough ruler for following the pattern. You'll need to keep to an even or odd # of sts in your baby length, but also notice the group sts and how many sts they take each so you'll have the right # of sts to work into. Does that make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To begin with, I would suggest you reduce the # of rows in the band, so it won't be 1/2 of the hat unless you want to make a cuff with it. You'll have to keep track of the rows so you'll know when to start a new one and when to decrease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell you exactly how to decrease without dealing with the pattern and your gauge. I suggest you see how the first several rows after the band shape up and look at how often the pattern suggests dec. It's not the end of the world if you have to take out a row or 3. It should be pretty quick work; it's not a complicated pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this has been some help. When I increment or decrement a pattern, I just have to wing it beyond a certain point. As I said, taking out some rows won't take long to re-do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="647" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T00:39:19.723" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T00:39:19.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1953" CreationDate="2016-07-15T01:02:48.793" Score="4" ViewCount="12069" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my first time painting a large canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to buy Golden paints but I am not sure how much to get, with some room for experimentation too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T02:52:37.470" LastActivityDate="2018-06-07T17:19:47.030" Title="How much acrylic paint do I need to fill a 2x2 meter canvas?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1952" CreationDate="2016-07-15T02:29:08.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a 10 x 10 centimetre square of your canvas and paint a test piece. Once you are happy with your painting measure the amount of paint that was used and then multiply it by 400. That is how much paint you will need to create the same image on a two by two meter square canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2m = 200 cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;200 cm x 200 cm = 40 000 cm^2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10cm x 10 cm = 100 cm^2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;40 000 cm^2 / 100 cm^2 = 400 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 10 cm^2 canvas is 400 times smaller than your 2 m^2 canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going the other way, you would have to scale the test piece by 400 times for it to be the same size as your desired canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and you can determine the amount of paint used by weighing your canvas (the 10 x 10 cm) one before and after painting. The difference in weight is the amount of weight added by the paint. Multiply that by 400 and you will have a good estimate for the amount needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experienced carpenters add 20% for wastage. Carpenters are smart, they know things will go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a safe number would be 480 times the amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400 x 1.2 = 480&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much actual paint could this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say, it takes the artist the equivalent of a quarter of a 2 fl. oz. tube of paint to cover the 10 cm^2 canvas. That's 0.5 fl. oz. of paint to do the painting with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.25 x 2 fl. oz = 0.5 fl. oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the 2 m^2 canvas is 400 times bigger than the 10 cm ^2 canvas you would need a total of 200 fl. oz. to do the same painting as your test piece on the larger size canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0.5 fl. oz. x 400 = 200 fl. oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means you would have to purchase 100 tubes of the 2 fl. oz. paint tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 x 2 fl. oz. = 200 fl. oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I did say you need to account for wastage. Assuming 20% of your paint gets wasted. then the number of tubes needs to grow by 20%. That's 120 tubes of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 * 1.2 = 120 tubes of 2 fl. oz paint tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now lets say those 2 fl. oz. paint tubes cost $10 USD each. To buy 120 tubes at $10 USD each would cost you a total of $1200 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;120 * $10 USD = $1200 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's $1200 in paint alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time you go to a gallery show and see all those large paintings hanging on the wall know that the artist had to shell out a hell of a lot of money out of their own pocket to get those paintings made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The greatest investment artists make are in themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T23:33:59.790" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T23:33:59.790" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-15T12:00:18.507" Score="9" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paper masks are easy to make and can even be made by kids. However their life is limited to how long the mask will survive being used by children. An example of what I am describing would be this from &lt;a href=&quot;http://herfamilytrends.com/easy-paper-plate-bunny-crafts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HerFamilyTrends.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WZZ5W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WZZ5W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paper mask&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failure is almost always going to occur from the elastic, string or yarn, that wraps behind ones head, at the punched hole. The holes usually wear out from the &quot;string&quot; and the mask falls off and needs to be repaired or discarded sooner. You can use something like scotch tape either before hand or after to make it last longer but the tension from the string will still cut into the tape and the result is still the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, you could use something stronger like duct tape but that stuff is likely to get hair caught which is not comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make the mask stay attached to their respective heads for longer while minimizing the need to repair it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T17:05:23.657" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T19:20:51.800" Title="How can I get children's paper masks to last longer?" Tags="|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2016-07-15T13:02:59.943" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reinforcing your string holes, specifically, I would recommend binder hole reinforcement stickers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51Pzsb04NbL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter link description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are made of a tear-resistant material and you can add them to one or both sides of your holes to keep the string from cutting or tearing the paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also find them in a variety of colors and patterns, to spruce things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T13:02:59.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1959" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:33:55.020" Score="9" ViewCount="17248" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our new house has an ironing board that folds out of the wall. While I love the convenience of this, the ironing board cover is rather old and gross, as well as having some tears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being crafty, I'd like to make my own ironing board cover. What fabrics can I consider that would not be a fire hazard? (Assuming I will never leave the iron just sitting face down on the ironing board, of course.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T16:07:39.043" Title="What fabric is appropriate for an ironing board cover?" Tags="|fabric|heat-resistant|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1960" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:41:17.843" Score="6" ViewCount="899" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine gifted me a paper crane out of regular printer paper, and I'd like to spruce it up if I can do so, without having to just scribble at it with a marker for hours on end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I'd like something that can give it a (mostly) even coat of color without taking more than a half hour, and while maintaining the integrity of the crane. Is spray paint usable for this purpose, or is there a better tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T13:57:51.250" Title="What can I use to quickly color already-folded origami?" Tags="|paint|origami|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2016-07-15T18:49:41.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cotton! My mother made her own iron board covers out of cotton. Since it is natural you don't have to worry about it trapping steam, or melting from the heat of the iron. The heavier the fabric, the better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T18:49:41.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1958" CreationDate="2016-07-15T19:05:14.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is spray paint usable for this purpose, or is there a better tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started reading this spray paint is what came to mind. It seems the best  way to get even coverage with minimal effort. Now that can be considered a broad suggestion given the many varieties of paints out there but most should be more than sufficient for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray paint allows you to reach all the surfaces, contours and crevasses of the model without having to handle it too much. Just sit it on some paper and spray the model from enough distance that you are not saturating it. This should help prevent beading and dripping of the paint. With something like a crane the points should keep it elevated enough to not need help keeping of the ground.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is still a possibly that this could warp the model. Since you are applying a liquid to one side of the paper it could cause the model to curl as it dries. This can happen with almost anything you would apply. Making multiple light coats can mitigate this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always be sure to wear protective gear, like face masks and goggles, and work in an open and well circulated area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T19:13:55.470" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T19:13:55.470" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1895" CreationDate="2016-07-15T19:41:40.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any bones which are obviously clean and free form any residual soft tissue shouldn't be too much of a problem. With skulls you obviously have more cavities to work about but if the outer surface is clean when you find it it is reasonable to amuse that the interior is too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the bones are cleaned of any soil etc a wash with dilute hydrogen peroxide should effectively sterilise them without damaging the bone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously with any organic material of unknown origin you can never say it is 100% safe but equally it is ether practical or desirable to attempt to live in an aseptic world. For carving bones sensible precautions wold include wearing a dust mask (if using abrasives or power tools) and maintaining sensible hygiene in you work area. Similarly sealing your finished carving with oil, wax or lacquer should be effective in making it safe to display. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T19:41:40.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2016-07-15T20:34:43.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could laminate it with wide scotch tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T19:20:51.800" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T19:20:51.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1949" CreationDate="2016-07-16T00:00:46.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just thinking out loud here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotate the pendant 90 degrees.&#xA;Solder hooks on the opposite side mirroring the two on the other side.&#xA;Add the new chain.&#xA;Attach the chains together with loops.&#xA;Done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PwhS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PwhS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T00:00:46.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1958" CreationDate="2016-07-16T19:47:22.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An airbrush seems perfectly suited to this type of work. You'd be able to adjust the flow and target the crevices, to get even coverage without soaking the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the start-up costs of getting an airbrush are considerably more expensive than grabbing a can of spray paint or using some sort of dry brush technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tutorials on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Airbrush/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to make an airbrush&lt;/a&gt; available online. I won't cover them here, because that's a bit beyond my scope. It is an option if you're on a budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Renting an airbrush might not be an option, but there may be studios in your area that let you use their equipment if you pay a cover charge and for supplies. I know many studios, especially on college campuses, allow you to use studios for about $10 and it gives you access to all their equipment, generally pottery wheels and kilns and tools. If this is something you'd want to pursue, I'd call around and see if they have an airbrush available if you pay for some studio time. Then, make sure you bring enough to do or have some other ideas to explore, and make good use of that time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T19:47:22.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1966" CreationDate="2016-07-16T20:25:14.447" Score="5" ViewCount="1489" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all of the knives I used when carving my recent plaster piece have now rusted. Something in the plaster greatly increased the oxidization rate of the tools, which are primarily steel. Some I thought were stainless, but apparently not. The better tools, that are really stainless, are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to keep them from rusting? Is there a solvent or cleaner I can wash them in after use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T17:33:12.473" Title="How can I keep my metal tools from rusting after using them with plaster?" Tags="|plaster|maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1965" CreationDate="2016-07-16T20:58:58.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The grit in your plaster pits the surface of your tools, especially if the plaster still contains moisture while you're carving it. And then when you clean your tools with water the water gets into the pits and if left to sit there it will eat way at the metal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to get the water off your tools as fast as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cleaning your tools with water, dry throughly with a dry cloth and then blow dry the tools to get rid of all the moisture (moisture hidden below the surface residing in the pitted surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are anti-rust sprays. But in your case coating the tools with a rust inhibitor would not be a good idea as the coating material could stain your plaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean and dry quickly is my recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you store your tools in a container with a lid thrown into the container a bag of silica gel desiccant. The desiccant will help absorb any remaining moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T17:33:12.473" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T17:33:12.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T14:15:06.117" Score="10" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a globe of Mars. I've obtained a &quot;sliced&quot; map of Mars that I will print. Then I'll need to cut the slices and glue them onto the globe of Earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The slices won't align perfectly; I can pinch or stretch each a little bit (they do have a bit of overlap) but I don't want to have the last connection off by too much - and my errors will accumulate if I just progress around the globe. How can I avoid it? A glue that allows sliding them around? Some kind of 'hint grid' for pasting them?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They are still somewhat wide; won't align with the spherical surface perfectly. A hint to make the paper more stretchy, or some other medium than paper? or some other tricks to avoid wrinkling along the edges?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How to finish it? Protect the print from dust and environment. Some kind of lacquer?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T01:00:58.287" Title="How to glue a map onto a globe?" Tags="|paper|material-selection|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1965" CreationDate="2016-07-17T16:14:25.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plaster is indeed particularly bad for rusting steel. It helps a lot if you give your tools a light coating of a hard paste wax (eg car polish) before use. This creates a water repelling surface layer which protects them in the short terms and also helps prevent wax from sticking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also good to keep a bucket of water hand to rinse the plaster off them as you go, while it is still wet. apart from preventing rusting this also stops lumps of plaster building up which make the tools less effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immediately after use clean them thoroughly with water and a sponge and then dry them. WD40 is good for this as it actively displaces water (WD stands for Water Dispersant). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also give them a final wipe with an oily cloth or wax paste to give them a bit of protection untill their next use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T16:14:25.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1878" CreationDate="2016-07-17T16:25:18.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most paints don't stick very well to cured plaster so it is often best to seal the surface first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have  a lot of surface detail then shellac can work well as this will seal the surface without obscuring detail. This should take oil and acrylic paints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use polyurethane varnish, this will cure OK on slightly damp materials and will take most paints and finishes but is more prone to streaks, drips and filling in surface texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also consider using tinted waxes, these can be quite good for simulating stone, terracotta and cast metals and tends to look a bit more natural than paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T16:25:18.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1947" CreationDate="2016-07-17T16:41:34.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want it to hang vertically you will need to do a fair amount of reworking of the setting, this is complicated by any soldering runs the risk of damaging the stone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to extend the chain it is probably just as easy to buy a new chain of the correct length and do a direct swap. You can get a huge variety of chains from jewelers supplier or indeed ebay for not too much money, indeed just a waxed cotton or leather thong might be just as good with this piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want it mounted vertically you will need to cut off the existing rings and file them flat to the mount and then add a new ring at one of the narrow ends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you have two practical options, first to get a blank silver mount of the right size and shape and glue the existing piece on with epoxy or you could wrap the whole thing with silver wire to create a sort of 'cage'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T16:41:34.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2016-07-17T16:53:21.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need a specialist hammer, a small ball pein or cabinet makers pin hammer from a hardware store will do the job. However you may need to polish the face as any scratches or defects in it will transfer to the work. Foam backed abrasive pads are good for this as the naturally create a slightly convex face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need something to hammer onto, for soft wires like annealed copper or silver a hard rubber block may be adequate, for steel wire you will want something a bit firmer like end-gain hardwood (e.g. a beech chopping board or 'butchers block) or a polished steel anvil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously your hammering technique is critical your strikes need to be both correctly weighted and accurate and this only comes with practice and the correct weight will depend on the hardness and ductility of the wire you are using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-07-17T17:05:59.727" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T17:05:59.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T22:14:19.867" Score="3" ViewCount="5704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love carving plaster! I have an assortment of tools that I've repurposed for carving plaster, but I'd like to know what else there is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are certain tools better suited to carving or detailing plaster? It can break apart more easily than wood, is harder than clay, and is sometimes prone to chipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T19:48:20.807" Title="What are some good tools to use for carving plaster?" Tags="|tool-selection|plaster|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1972" CreationDate="2016-07-17T22:45:49.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stone carving tools might be good to try, such as rifflers, files rasps. Made for stone they would easily survive being used on plaster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image below is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fine-tools.com/liogier-riffler-rasps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fine-tools.com/liogier-riffler-rasps.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ygYxM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ygYxM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LIOGIER Hand-stitched Riffler Rasps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T22:45:49.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-18T08:30:01.813" Score="6" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/1967/how-to-glue-a-map-onto-a-globe&quot;&gt;Martian Globe&lt;/a&gt; project isn't going according to the plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe &quot;the slices&quot; are too wide, but I know for a fact they were used by some people to create globes. Anyway, I took some test B&amp;amp;W printouts, cut them to shape, wet the paper and tried to lay it over the surface of the globe. And the edges crumple - or the middle rips if I pull the edges more straight. The plain printer paper simply isn't stretchy/compressible enough to follow the curve of the globe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer to avoid the task of making the 'gore map' from scratch, with narrower slices. Never mind the globe I'm using as a base already has Earth map on it, and its slices are exactly the same size, no wrinkling or crumpling, so it must be doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - what material could I get, and have the prints made on it - that would be slightly more stretchy (or compressible) than plain paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T15:18:55.447" Title="A more stretchy printable paper alternative?" Tags="|paper|material-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2016-07-18T10:05:38.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matt correctly identifies the &lt;em&gt;style&lt;/em&gt; as &lt;em&gt;High Contrast Art&lt;/em&gt;. But following the tag &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-identification&lt;/a&gt; - The &lt;em&gt;technique&lt;/em&gt; frequently used to create this kind of art is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linocut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Linocut&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T10:05:38.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2016-07-18T10:26:08.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're aiming at producing more than one-off copy, it may be beneficial to use slanted jaws for a vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just two pieces of aluminum L-profile, which you can put over the vise jaws, with something to slant them a little - a length of wire, or a couple small screws or something like that along the &quot;bottom&quot; side, to make the lower parts to come together sooner than the upper parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwRaX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwRaX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then reliably, smoothly, easily and in a controlled manner flatten the wire without risk of missing the spot with the hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T10:26:08.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1975" CreationDate="2016-07-18T11:09:04.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could print the image onto a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fastballoons.com/14-photo-balloons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;latex balloon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the image out then stretch the latex material onto the surface of your globe. Though it would be very tricky to get the image size right and then holding it in place while the glue dried would be difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you would run into the same trouble as you did with the paper, image would warp because you are trying to &quot;directly&quot; conformal map a square 2d surface to a round 3d surface. The math people say, nay nay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not go old school, like really old school, and draw the map onto the globe by hand? You already have a map and it's broken up into a number of latitudinal divisions. Transfer those divisions onto your globe and map the geography one division at a time lining up the next division as you go. It's an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T16:51:39.923" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T16:51:39.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2027" CreationDate="2016-07-19T00:10:31.600" Score="5" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some wire loop tools like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A05eO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A05eO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found they're working wonderfully for carving plaster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, &lt;em&gt;were&lt;/em&gt;. Now, the edges seem to be a but more blunt and taking too much pressure to remove material. I can't apply more pressure at this point, because my details are too small. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way, or any way, to sharpen these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-07T06:56:38.720" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T06:56:38.720" Title="Is there an easy way to sharpen a wire loop carving tool?" Tags="|maintenance|carving|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-19T01:21:45.777" Score="5" ViewCount="2395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like drawing as a hobby and after practising sketching with a pencil for a year or so I recently started using colour pencils and soft pastels and I was wondering what kind of painting tools would I need to create as beautiful a picture this one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STUG3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STUG3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;English is not my native language and I don't really know about artist`s terms, so please forgive any errors thank you all in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="664" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T02:59:44.130" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T19:12:51.240" Title="What kind of painting tools does one need in order to make these fantasy art drawings?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2016-07-20T00:49:14.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two keywords you need to look for are &lt;strong&gt;lightfast&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;archival&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For US manufacturers, &lt;strong&gt;lightfastness&lt;/strong&gt; is usually given as an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.astm.org/COMMIT/D01_MSkalkaVersion_Final.doc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ASTM rating&lt;/a&gt; (that's American Society for Testing and Materials), which is a roman numeral between I (highest lightfastness) and V (lowest). Generally, ratings of I and II are fine to use for most artworks; any lower than that should mostly only be used for temporary works (e.g. where you plan to scan the art into a computer and then discard the physical version), or for works that will spend most of their life covered (e.g. inside a book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no governing body that defines or determines whether materials are &lt;strong&gt;archival&lt;/strong&gt;, so you have to take claims with a grain of salt, but if you buy from reputable manufacturers, you should be OK. One requirement for being archival is another term you're likely to encounter: &lt;strong&gt;acid-free&lt;/strong&gt;. The acidity of the paper is what makes old printed materials brown and brittle. (I know this sounds like a paper problem, not a paint/pencil problem, but it won't help you that the canvas is guaranteed acid-free if you then paint it with something highly acidic.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;) Other requirements often come under the terms &lt;strong&gt;permanence&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;durability&lt;/strong&gt;. What these terms &lt;em&gt;mean&lt;/em&gt; depends on the manufacturer, but also on the intended purpose of the material: an artist's acrylic (latex) paint isn't going to stand up to the same degree of abrasion as a latex paint meant for walls, but that doesn't mean it's a bad paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good introduction to the subject is the definitions provided by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/resources/composition-permanence&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Winsor &amp;amp; Newton&lt;/a&gt;. Some of the terminology is specific to them (the AA, A, B, C system of permanence rating), but it's informative regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For materials meant to be used by children, for example markers or colored pencils, it can be very hard to find lightfastness or permanence ratings. If you want to use such materials, it can be worth your time to conduct your own lightfastness tests: draw some rectangles on a piece of paper, color them with the material you want to test (making sure to label the colors), get some opaque material such as mat board and cover half of each rectangle, and stick the thing in a sunny window&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;, and forget about it for a while -- several months, at least. When you remove the mat board, you'll see exactly how much each color faded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Well, to a point. The most common type of ink used in the middle ages is iron-gall ink, which by nature is highly acidic. Despite this, documents written with iron-gall ink over a millennium ago are still perfectly preserved and readable. Moral of the story, study the history of the materials you use, and try to use them in the ways that have already stood the tests of time.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; Your car's dashboard/rear ledge is even better: you get both sun and heat.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T00:49:14.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2016-07-20T01:45:46.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the specific example you found turns out to be digital art, the style it's reproducing is oil painting. (And acrylic, but acrylic arose as a way to paint in oils minus the long drying time.)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H2g2xm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H2g2xm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gingerbread Cottage by Thomas Kinkade&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://thomaskinkade.com/art/gingerbread-cottage/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a talented artist can achieve the same effect with watercolors, too:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Tb4Ym.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Tb4Ym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A Cake Walk by Eric Christensen&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ericchristensenart.com/#!a-cake-walk/c21mx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... but IMO such painting is hard enough without pushing your materials to their limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T01:45:46.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1975" CreationDate="2016-07-20T08:22:31.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered &lt;strong&gt;inkjet printable vinyl&lt;/strong&gt;? I've seen it in both static cling and sticker varieties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T08:27:39.873" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T08:27:39.873" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1949" CreationDate="2016-07-20T08:56:09.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with soldering anything to the existing mounting is that you run the risk of the heat damaging the stone, most minerals are both brittle and have poor thermal conductivity so anything other than very slow and even heating is likely to crack them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be better to make up a flat plate the same size as the back of the mount with a loop at one of the narrow ends and fix it with an adhesive or mechanical method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T08:56:09.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T11:44:27.910" Score="6" ViewCount="1080" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any kind of thermochromic material and/or paint that is capable of changing its color in the range from 4-8°C (39-46°F)? I'm trying to paint a glass bottle and want a visual aid for its temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="669" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T15:33:19.610" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T19:30:42.633" Title="Thermochromic material for low temperature?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1967" CreationDate="2016-07-20T16:46:44.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can give two tips, but I don't know how well they'll apply to working with a curved surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When dealing with contact cement, you'll often place dowels or similar down between the items being glued, so they can't make contact until you're ready.  You can then more easily re-position the top item until you stick them together.  You then pull out the sticks one by one, burnishing the surface as you go to make sure you don't end up with bubbles or such.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When applying vinyl decals, you'll often use a craft knife to transfer the decal to the item it's going on.  You get the tip of the knife under the vinyl to lift it up, and then hold the handle of the knife to align the sticker before burnishing it down with your off hand.  (and in this case, if you get bubbles, you poke them with the knife and squeeze the air out).  It might take some practice, but you get much better results than trying to use your hands directly on the stickers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update:&lt;/strong&gt; I should've mentioned for #2 -- the sticker needs to be relatively stiff for this one to work -- if it's too floppy, it's still a bit of a pain.  In those cases, you're often better off positioning it without adhesive, then lifting up one side to apply it, burnish that side down, then lift the other &amp;amp; repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="631" LastEditorUserId="631" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T17:02:19.843" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T17:02:19.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1967" CreationDate="2016-07-20T19:35:52.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope the surface that you're sticking them on, is smooth and not absorbing all the glue.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In that case, I'd do it the same way as applying wallpaper.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- paper that is wet, is a bit stretchy, so it can follow the curves a bit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- wallpaper glue doesn't 'set' immediately, you can still move the pieces around for a while, this allows for better manipulation.&#xA;- where parts of the map overlap, you could glue them overlapping, take a very sharp knife and cut through the two layers of paper. Be sure not to cut through the surface underneath (though a shallow scratch should not be a problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T19:35:52.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1994" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:30:54.890" Score="11" ViewCount="2755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pack of Bristol board with me today at work (I'm using it as a carrier for something), and I happened to read the description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ClgIpt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ClgIpt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bristol&lt;/strong&gt; vellum surface&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Acid free. Heavy weight. For finished artwork - dry media.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;Finished artwork&lt;/em&gt;&quot;? Am I supposed to somehow finish my artwork on some other substrate, and then magically transfer it to the Bristol board only once it's done? That makes no sense, obviously, so I'm thinking &lt;em&gt;finished artwork&lt;/em&gt; must be a &quot;term of art&quot; that means something different than what the words sound like. However, both words are very, very common, so searching for a definition is pretty much hopeless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the context of a label on a pack of paper, what does &quot;&lt;em&gt;for finished artwork&lt;/em&gt;&quot; mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T22:04:41.470" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T22:16:57.397" Title="What does &quot;for finished artwork&quot; mean?" Tags="|paper|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2016-07-21T20:12:50.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the paper industry, &lt;em&gt;paper finishing&lt;/em&gt; refers to the final treatment a paper surface receives to give it the characteristics and properties you want, depending on your desired application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, I believe the label means to indicate that &lt;em&gt;this paper is appropriate for artwork needing a finished surface&lt;/em&gt;, specifically stipulating &lt;em&gt;dry media.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be like going to an art store and picking up a blank canvas where the package labeling might say something like, &lt;em&gt;&quot;for canvas art — oil and water-based media.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T20:12:50.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2016-07-22T21:50:12.830" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 'finished' artwork is a piece that has been worked to a particular level of detail.    There are various levels of 'finish' from a basic outline to a 'finished' sketch, then from a basic drawing to a highly 'finished' piece of work.&#xA;To give an example, an artist might do a rough sketch of an idea and then a more detailed sketch or a colour sketch or even create a study for the whole piece or just a small section of the entire drawing/painting.  From that he/she might create a 'finished' piece for exhibition.  The sketches and studies might be made on cheap paper or canvas (sometimes on the back of an envelope)  but the 'finished' piece would be made on the best quality paper/canvas etc. So in the context of your Bristol board, it is a high quality paper that would be used for 'finished' artwork.  You could make sketches and transfer them to you good quality paper or you could draw directly onto it, it is your choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="680" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T21:50:12.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2016-07-22T22:26:56.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyperrealism is a very 'tightly' drawn 'finished' drawing (or painting).  The nearest term I can think of that would be the opposite of that would be 'Loose' drawing or painting.  The drawings you have there are not really loose sketches but I suspect that is what you need to research in order to take your drawings in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="680" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T22:26:56.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1986" CreationDate="2016-07-23T01:03:30.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a supplier of raw thermochromic pigment active in the temperature range you are looking for. But to make it into paint you would have to add binder yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Company is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://ymjpigment.en.alibaba.com/product/60079015111-800321232/Color_Change_Thermochromic_Pigment_for_Cosmetics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shenzhen Yu Mingjie Pigments Co., Ltd.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd4ojm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd4ojm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has different thermochromic pigments active in the ranges -5C to 78C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to specify the temperature range you are interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T04:52:34.753" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T04:52:34.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2016-07-24T04:09:10.693" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I can help you.  To make a living, I carve glass. Tabletops, door fronts, serving platters, and almost anything else made of glass has seen my efforts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the best tool to use would be a Dremel type rotary tool with either  a diamond burr or a stone grinding bit.  These come in quite a variety of shapes, compound materials and grit levels and are specially suited for this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard particle mask available at your local hardware store will protect your lungs when used properly.  Oiling the glass  with sewing machine or fresh motor oil will almost eliminate any lingering/ flying dust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly which tools are needed to accomplish your task is greatly dependent on exactly what you need to do.  Please visit Dremel.com for details and tutorials.  Great information is also available on YouTube as well.  If you do choose to purchase a rotary tool, you will find it is also very useful for a great many other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use either a 150 grit, cylinder shaped (similar in diameter as a #2 pencil), diamond burr, a silicon carbide grinding stone (same shape/ size) or a chainsaw sharpening stone (the blue one). Information on these bits and others can be found at Dremel.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to wear your mask, oil your glass, and set the tool to a low speed prior to starting. Be gentle and WEAR YOUR EYE PROTECTION.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't say enough about the eye protection thing. Been through many pairs of glasses, but still have both eyes. Undamaged!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T13:12:18.543" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T13:12:18.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="629" CreationDate="2016-07-24T08:33:56.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our eyes can see a vast range of values from the brightest light of looking into the direction of the sun on a clear summer day to the deepest darkest black of and underground cave.  But there is no paint dark enough or light enough to reproduce those values in a painting/drawing. So to make a drawing/painting as realistic as possible it is necessary to 'push' the values to the limits.  So it means to make the darks darker and the lights lighter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the context of composition it is better to keep the shadows and the lights separate, when you push your values it will improve the 3D look of your artwork.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="680" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T08:33:56.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2016-07-24T19:23:51.563" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the sounds of your application, a table-top glass grinder is the right answer.  I'm saying this from a couple assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sounds like you're making many of these and just want a nice edge to your mirrored glass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You probably want minimal effort to accomplish this, for now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; described the need to artistically embellish the edge of the mirror / glass plates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the dremel-related answers address the issue that you may begin to decorate the edges in an artistic manner.  If that's something you'll plan on, then a table-top grinder is probably inappropriate because it serves mostly two purposes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to grind cuts smooth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to round edges and make meager, coarse, bevels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'll only need to do one of the two above, then the glass table grinder is fine.  However, you will need a jig if you want to grind regular angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jig is basically a sloped block that will hold the glass at the angle you want to grind the smooth angle.  See below.  You can create a few of them for the common angles you'll work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's not obvious: the jig is generally a 'free' block and isn't mounted to the table.  It can be mounted, if that's more convenient because you basically have one type of cut that you ever do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times, a table will have a couple holes drilled in them, for the jig to mount into via pegs.  How to handle jigs is probably another question altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/azFKW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/azFKW.png&quot; alt=&quot;jig diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T19:23:51.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="629" CreationDate="2016-07-24T22:16:54.473" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there isn't enough separation in the levels of the values used in rendering an image then the image can look washed out or the shapes poorly defined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone saying, you need to &quot;push the values&quot;, means they think you need to add more separation in the value levels you used to define your shapes and areas in the image as a way to help build greater depth, contrast and image intensity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RYzgQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RYzgQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Squeezing and Pushing Value Scales&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image on the left I limited myself to use values only from the middle range of the value scale (N4 to N7). The image looks hazy as though looking through a fog. I squeezed my values into too tight of a range for the scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the image on the right I expanded the range and pulled from a broader overall range of the value scale. I pushed areas that were originally at N4 to now be at N1. At the other end where I had used N7 i pushed those areas to N10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both images N5 was used to render the table top. I used this value as my anchor point. Squeezing and pushing around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is the image on the right looks more intense and seems to be clearer than the image on the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T15:31:30.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T15:31:30.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2016-07-25T09:49:09.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinning the paint too much  will weaken the binding in oil paint and the paint will likely flake off. Polishing the gesso may also reduce the ability for the paint to adhere to the surface. The best way to get the super smooth finish is to blend the paint very well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fan brushes are the best tool to reduce any brush marks on the surface of your painting. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the brush is dry before using and wipe clean onto a dry rag between strokes.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stroke the brush very gently at a 90 degree angle across the surface in a herringbone type pattern alternating from left to right. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shouldn't disturb the painting but will reduce the brush marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="680" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T15:29:57.563" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T15:29:57.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="40" CreationDate="2016-07-25T10:48:19.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the paint layer has become tacky it is no longer possible to work back into it.  It is not advisable to use white spirit for painting in oils. Mineral spirits is better but even so it should never be used to re-activate oil paint that is partially dry.  By adding more thinner to the paint you will be weakening the paint bonds and the paint will flake off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to work on an area after it is dry to touch you will need to re-paint that area. You can 'oil out' the area to give it a 'couch' to work on and then re-paint. When painting over the first layers you will also need to follow the 'fat over lean' rule, so add less mineral spirits and a little more oil with each layer.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="680" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T15:33:14.453" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T15:33:14.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1937" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:23:01.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also achieved a simple stained glass look with tissue paper glued onto something clear.  Modge-Podge or elmer's glue your cut shapes onto glass, &quot;transparency sheets&quot; or even clear plastic bottles, then brush another coat or two over the top of the project. You can either glue black strips over the edges, or use a black permanent marker when completely dry.  This does take some dexterity, the tissue paper is delicate, and once it's wet it's even more so. But search for tissue paper stained glass and see what comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="694" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T19:23:01.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:38:40.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you're making with it.  When you're dealing with seamless T-shirts, I'd start at the bottom.  Cut the hem off, then go around and around cutting about an inch (2.5cm) in one continuous strip. You can put a little mark on your finger to indicate the measurement so you don't have to draw all those lines, and it won't need to be absolutely exact.  Don't bother with the neck and sleeves.  If you want some uniformity, you'll need to play with different widths.  You'll need narrower strips for heavier fabric.  Maybe make some test strips with the sleeves and make some samples before you start into the body of the shirts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fabric is going to curl onto itself to form a strand instead of staying a flat strip if you stretch it at all.  If it's thin it will probably just do that anyway.  And that might be a good thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="694" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T19:38:40.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1734" CreationDate="2016-07-27T01:38:00.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The generally accepted practice, as I've read on numerous websites and through books, is to break up the dried up clay into small pieces, add a little mineral oil (or baby oil), and massage/work the oil in. (If you're not wearing gloves, this will 'stain' your hands but it will wash off with a little effort). After the smaller pieces are softened, merge them back together and continue to work the larger lump to spread out the oil evenly, as you normally would to soften the clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sculpey.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sculpey&lt;/a&gt; also markets a clay softener that helps with this process, however if too much is used it can affect the color of the clay, or make it slightly translucent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adding oil it is possible to add too much, and this will be evident in the clay. To remove excess oil, wrap the clay in several layers of an absorbent material, such as paper towels, and put it in a ziplock bag. Leave to rest for a day or two, checking the consistency occasionally and replacing the absorbent material, until you have the consistency you desire. This process will tend to wick the oil out of the outer portion of the lump of clay more than the inner portion, so after removing the absorbent materials and massaging the clay again, it will be slightly softer than indicated before massaging (how much will depend on the size of the lump prior to wrapping it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding mineral oil to soften clay also makes it easier to blend different colors to make a custom color, and then remove the excess oil using the process described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T02:58:20.250" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T02:58:20.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1975" CreationDate="2016-07-27T15:18:55.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about tricot? That should be stretchy enough.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could, for instance, print on a T-shirt, if you're fortunate enough to have a printer that can do the job. Or else there are companies offering to print a given image on a T-shirt.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Be aware that edges may fray and/or curl, but good glue should prevent/solve that issue. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make sure the size of the print is not that much different for the size of the globe. The less you have to stretch the tricot, the less you will look through the holes in the fabric, and the less stretched out the details are.&lt;br&gt;I hope this gives you some inspiration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T15:18:55.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2051" CreationDate="2016-07-28T06:17:24.263" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always wanted to make electric guitars myself. However, it seems a bit hard to find the right supply of wood to do so, as musical instruments usually require naturally dried wood pieces for acoustic stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T17:24:06.507" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T16:02:53.693" Title="What are possible sources of wood pieces from for making musical instruments?" Tags="|wood|woodworking|wood-carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-28T21:58:37.183" Score="7" ViewCount="11346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my old (10+ years) pencil art drawings and when I looked at them recently I notice that the paper has yellowed where it is visible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to remove to remove the yellow tint without affecting the drawing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="703" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T00:07:37.197" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T02:31:01.117" Title="How to remove the yellowish color from my old drawings?" Tags="|restoration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2010" CreationDate="2016-07-28T23:42:17.477" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there is a way to remove the yellow staining but there are a lot of methods to keep it from getting any worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason your paper is turning yellow is because of the quality of paper that was used to make the drawing on. Economical paper is made from wood and not cotton. Chances are you have paper made from a wood pulp. Wood is made up of lignin and cellulose. The yellowing in the result of lignin, still present in the fibres of your paper, oxidizing when exposed to sunlight and air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if the paper wasn't washed properly, residual acids from the paper-making process may still be present. These acids help with the oxidation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To save your paper I would recommend two things, 1) Neutralize the residual acids and 2) Seal the paper from contact with the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Krylon makes a spray (Make It Acid-Free), that helps neutralize the acids. Neutralizing the acids slows down the yellowing and aging of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BeczY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BeczY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Krylon also makes a preservative for protecting documents and photos called PreserveIt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neutralize the acids first, then preserve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future if you want your drawings to last longer (say a couple of hundred years), try using paper that is archival safe or acid-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Editor's note: it looks like Make It Acid-Free may no longer be available.  If that's the case, there are a few other similar products, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.unitedmfrs.com/Archival_Mist_p/5372.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Archival Mist&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://archival.com/deacid.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bookkeeper&lt;/a&gt; (which is a liquid used in a hand sprayer).  This is provided only as information; no personal experience with the products.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T02:31:01.117" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T02:31:01.117" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2014" CreationDate="2016-07-29T14:23:53.110" Score="6" ViewCount="6897" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current sculpture encountered an accident and the Giraffe lost a leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I repair the leg? I've got plenty of plaster mix and epoxy, but not sure if applying either will work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sculpture was unfinished. I'd prefer a method that allows me to continue finishing its details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T03:50:09.233" Title="How can I repair a plaster sculpture?" Tags="|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2013" CreationDate="2016-07-29T16:30:54.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would make a slip, made from the same plaster as the model was made from, and use the slip to &quot;glue&quot; my two pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scoring the inner surface slightly giving the slip a bit of a roughened surface to bind to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the two halves are brought together you want to see the slip forced out of the joint. Just wipe off the excess with a damp cloth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see the slip being squeezed from the joint then you didn't use enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using the same material to bind the pieces together as what the sculpture was made from you won't have to worry as much about discolouration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard part will be holding the two pieces together while the slip dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use masking tape! Masking tape will stain your material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go the tape route, use a good quality painters tape as you can leave it for hours, or days, and not worry about it leaving any residue behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick sketch of the steps I would take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a narrow headed screw (such as a flooring screw) and measure its length. We will call that length &quot;d&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drill a pockets slightly larger than the head of the screw into both halves of the plaster cast to a depth of 1/2 d.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill both drilled pockets with your slip compound.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insert the screw into the pocket such that half the length of the screw is sticking out the top of the cast. The part that is sticking out will what will hold the other part of your cast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Align and bring together both halves of the broken cast. And squeeze them together. You want to see the slip squeezing out of the joint. If you don't them you did not use enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the pieces are together you can use a damp cloth to wipe the excess slip from the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bind the two halves and allow to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how big of a piece we are talking about in your case. If it's a lot smaller then instead of the screw you could use a piece of aluminum wire to act as the screw. Remember to form the wire into a loop at both of its ends. Once the slip dries the loops will be anchored into the dried plaster and keep the two pieces from pulling apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HoPY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HoPY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Repairing a break&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T03:50:09.233" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T03:50:09.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2016-07-30T04:37:22.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lay your glass flat on your work table with the edge you want to smooth being even with the edge of your table. Oil the edge of to be finished. (3-in-one oil works quite well for this or even something a bit heaver will do. I use the same oil I put in my Harley.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget your eye protection and particle mask!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using your rotary tool at a slower speed, about 500rpm, gently rub the edge to be smoothed with your stone until the desired effect is achieved.  This method works for any project, whatever the size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="709" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T04:37:22.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2009" CreationDate="2016-07-30T18:58:35.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone with a large enough tree is a potential source -- but you might have to do some more work (square it up to make a blank &amp;amp; dry it to the appropriate humidity to work it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my neighbor had a maple dropped that was about 5' across, someone came up and asked if they could have some of the wood to make a cello. He had said that the trick was to paint the section of tree w/ latex paint to seal in the moisture 'til you're ready to use it. Unfortunately, he couldn't find a large enough section for his needs that didn't have some rot in it (which was why the tree was taken out)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to check with arborists or tree trimming services in your area -- they might be able to save you a suitable sized chunk from trees that they're removing, if the owner doesn't want it for firewood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="631" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T18:58:35.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2021" CreationDate="2016-07-31T13:43:40.810" Score="7" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a leather couch that the seam on the arm split. How can I sew this up without showing the stiches (or least obvious that it was hand sewn)?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/stBql.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/stBql.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of rip&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T16:51:57.023" Title="Sew Hidden Seam" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2020" CreationDate="2016-07-31T14:02:00.380" Score="5" ViewCount="8629" Body="&lt;p&gt;An art show with one artist is a solo show. One featuring many artists is called a group show. What in the generally-accepted industry term for an art show that only has two artists? A dual show? A duo show?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="717" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T17:15:05.337" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T17:15:05.337" Title="What is the term for an art show featuring two artists?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2018" CreationDate="2016-07-31T15:03:21.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;group exposition&quot; or &quot;collective exhibition&quot; could be used to describe a two person art show ... BUT (after searching the internuts a bit) it seems that &lt;em&gt;&quot;Duo Exhibition&quot;&lt;/em&gt; is the most common term for a two artist show. Group Exposition or Collective Exhibition applies to shows which have three artists or more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examples:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macdonaldisland.ca/userfiles/files/2015%20Exhibition%20Guidelines.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exhibition guidelines for the MacDonald Island Community Art Gallery Exhibition&lt;/a&gt; they list three categories of exhibitions which depends on the number of artists showing: Solo, Duo and Collective&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.secilbuyukkan.com/texts.asp?id=7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SEÇİL BÜYÜKKAN gallery discussing the Seçil Büyükkan and Deniz Aktaş &quot;Hande Şarman&quot; show&lt;/a&gt;  refers to the event as a &quot;Duo Exhbibition&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yooreeyang.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/yooreeyang_portfolio-2016.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CV for visual artist Yooree Yang&lt;/a&gt; gives a listing of Solo Exhibition &amp;amp; &quot;Duo Exhibitions&quot; the artist has participated in the past&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T16:47:02.367" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T16:47:02.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2017" CreationDate="2016-07-31T19:58:42.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a thread in the right colour (same as existing thread). Make sure the thread is strong enough to endure some force during the sewing process (and afterwards as well).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the holes that are already in the leather. It gives you the same stitch size, and since you don't have to create new holes, it's easier for you as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the stitches you use, resemble the stitches that have been used before. It looks like at one side, the edges of the leather are folded inwards, while at the other side, the leather looks like as if it's foldeld outwards. So, judge by similar parts (I'm sure the couch has another arm) to see what stitches you need.&lt;br&gt;Good luck, and I hope you can enjoy your couch a long time after the mending.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T19:58:42.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2018" CreationDate="2016-07-31T20:07:49.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often seen &lt;strong&gt;two-person exhibition&lt;/strong&gt; used to describe this kind of show. A simple &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=%22two-person%20exhibition%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;web search on the term&lt;/a&gt; brings up a number of examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T03:55:34.523" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T03:55:34.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2018" CreationDate="2016-08-01T03:18:56.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this really can depend on the artists purpose or goal. I found a Google book called &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.ca/books?id=isGZxZCAPAkC&amp;amp;pg=PT90&amp;amp;lpg=PT90&amp;amp;dq=art+exhibition+with+multiple+artist&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=TSBHuFQi6O&amp;amp;sig=zfDO7nWYSsNuj670aW461QEPwTc&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi2xtnqnJ_OAhXD8YMKHan1BXwQ6AEITzAM#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=art%20exhibition%20with%20multiple%20artist&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fine Art Publicity: The Complete Guide for Galleries and Artists&lt;/a&gt; that talks about this. What little we can see for free that is pertinent talks about creating press release for these refers to them as &lt;strong&gt;Multiple Artist and Theme Exhibitions&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ago.net/ago-to-bring-giants-of-british-art-francis-bacon-and-henry-moore-together-for-major-exhibition-this-spring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An article discussing a (at the time) future exhibition&lt;/a&gt; featuring two artists as just that: An exhibition. The search that led me had the subject: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Francis Bacon &amp;amp; Henry Moore: Terror and Beauty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could argue that it was a themed art exhibit. In this case the two artists were from the same period, drawing on a similar war torn past into their works, but never collaborated together during their lives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we can see in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2020/44&quot;&gt;other&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2022/44&quot;&gt;answers&lt;/a&gt; there are multiple terms in use to describe this. I think the goal of the artists and hosting gallery or venue will drive what terms they would use to describe their exhibition/exhibit. I don't think there is one answer for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T03:44:42.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2017" CreationDate="2016-08-01T03:43:52.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely heed the advice that &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2021/44&quot;&gt;Ji Ugug answer lays out&lt;/a&gt;. I would like to offer a technique that can help hide the stitches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with thread that is &lt;em&gt;way longer&lt;/em&gt; then it needs to be if you were just stitching this when you were not trying to hide it. What you would do is use the existing holes (assuming they are not damaged) and feed the thread through &lt;em&gt;without pulling it taut&lt;/em&gt;. I would also go several stitches before and after the seam rip. Pull the end of the thread through somewhere it cannot be seen (under or beside the seat preferably, or near the back cushion). In the picture the seam seems large enough you could push your hand through a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, pull the thread tight (starting from the far end away from the needle) like a shoe lace. Pull the stitches tight as you go. Once you get to the end you can then try and tie off away from the repaired seem. Careful where you tie off as you can pull too hard and create a dimple in the arm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a bonded leather couch by chance? If yes you might have a harder time threading it as the holes will fail easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T16:51:57.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2010" CreationDate="2016-08-01T08:45:13.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take high quality digital scans or photographs of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That won't undo the damage if some of the drawing is already lost, but digital editing may help make the parts of the art that are still there more visible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="285" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T08:45:13.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1979" CreationDate="2016-08-01T20:04:05.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is not based on first-hand knowledge of sharpening wire loops, but is based on extrapolating what works for paint scrapers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many years ago while performing one of those early-marriage projects that required the removal of paint from second-hand furniture, I decided that my scraper blade needed to be replaced.  Ran over to the local hardware store and the knowledgeable clerk informed me that I did not need a new blade - just sharpen it - doh, really? how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He proceeded to demonstrate and after thirty seconds and two swipes of a file to the cutting edge I went home.  I still have the scraper and blade, though it's much reduced in size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take the same approach with these flat wire loops and use a file to restore the edge.  A few firm swipes should produce a nice edge.  It might also be possible to treat the edges the same way you would sharpen a pocket knife with a whetstone or with a small hand-held stone. It might be a bit tricky on the curved parts, but I think any artisan could handle a file to create a curved edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T20:04:05.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2029" CreationDate="2016-08-01T20:56:44.753" Score="14" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many months ago, I came across an art medium used by painters. I cannot remember the exact term for this medium. It is white, but is transparent once used, I believe... having the consistency and appearance very similar to white liquid Elmer's Glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence (referring to this medium as Medium A), a painter would first sketch their desired image in pencil onto paper... be it typography or any image, really. Any spaces they wanted to remain white in the finished work (like lettering or small details, for example), they would paint and fill in with Medium A. Once medium A has dried, they would paint all over the paper (including over Medium-A-covered areas) with watercolor, typically with multiple colors. After the painting has dried, the artist would peel off Medium A areas from the painting, being careful not to rip up the paper fibers themselves along with Medium A. In essence, it has a resistance effect similar to a white wax crayon drawn underneath watercoloring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of what the result after using Medium A could look like: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1kMThm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1kMThm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is Medium A really referred to as?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="726" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T22:01:33.623" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T01:03:20.580" Title="What do you call &quot;negative&quot; paint?" Tags="|paint|watercolor|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2016-08-01T21:59:08.820" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are looking for is called a &lt;strong&gt;masking fluid&lt;/strong&gt;. It is sometimes also called &lt;strong&gt;liquid frisket&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Masking fluid can be treated like paint which wherever it is applied will protect what is underneath. A feature of most masking fluids is that they are removable once dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some masking fluids are strongly hydrophobic (water repellent), and water will bead on its surface. This can make it tricky to tell when the whole canvas is dry. Trying to remove the masking fluid but having some undried paint pooling on the surface can cause heartbreaking smears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some masking liquids change colour after they dry. This makes it easier to see where you have applied it, and easier to tell if you have removed it all after the work is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Masking fluid is great for creating negative visual effects, like you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4voXam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4voXam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Winsor &amp;amp; Newton Masking Fluid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T01:03:20.580" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T01:03:20.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2031" CreationDate="2016-08-02T10:41:00.923" Score="-2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question&#xA;For example i'm a begginer java programmer &#xA;And i want to built an game in android &#xA;How i can get a anime caracters thats drawing for just my special ,thats mean new anime caracters for my special app &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="731" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:31:31.170" Title="App anime caracters" Tags="|drawing|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-02T11:05:09.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2030" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:31:31.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you would be looking for a &quot;freelance artist for hire&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you are &quot;technically&quot; a small business owner that needs concept designs and character development for a product you are trying to create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would create a design brief describing exactly what it is you are looking for. Any freelance artist who contacts you would request this document and, upon an agreed upon price, would begin the development work in creating the character based on the brief. The brief tells the artist what it is you need. The artist provides their aesthetic skills to bring to life the brief. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn more about this process of hiring and working with illustrators and designers three good people to look up on YouTube are Children's Book Illustrator Will Terry,  Designer Feng Zhu of FDZSchool, and (Artists Pete Mohrbacher and Sam Flegal&quot; of One Fantastic Week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In you case, if cash is tight, you might want to go check out someplace where amature anime artists hang out at, such as local comic cons, gaming stores or school art programs. Find an artist who is looking to take part in a passion project like this. Go out and meet the artists, get to know them and their work. Let them know what you are looking for and what you are offering in exchange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partnerships are hard to create and maintain but they can be incredibly rewarding and fulfilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:31:31.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1905" CreationDate="2016-08-02T13:43:45.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've successfully painted the inside of tubes by pulling sponges through them on strings.  Saturating the sponge with slightly thinned paint worked best for me, but I needed a matte black finish and it took several coats drying in between.  It strikes me that a slightly oversized round piece of sponge with poster paint of different colours applied to it might produce a nice stripy/swirly effect (for the latter use a stick rather than a string and twist as you pull).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVA or similar craft glue should work similarly.  You could then either use this to stick paper (rolled up of insertion) or shake up some glitter/confetti in the tube.  These would also stick to paint if you wanted a base colour with decoration on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T13:43:45.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="587" CreationDate="2016-08-02T16:57:24.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm far from an expert, but here's what I've picked up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important technique for watercolor is to work &lt;strong&gt;light to dark&lt;/strong&gt;. Unlike other types of paint, you can't just paint a lighter color over a dark patch. (You can &lt;em&gt;lift&lt;/em&gt; pigment after, but it typically leaves slight discoloration, and you risk damaging the paper.) Instead, with watercolor you are building up layers of translucent tints to create your image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, let's consider the types of areas that you listed for a generic watercolor painting: wash, fill, shadows, highlights, and details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark out your &lt;strong&gt;highlights&lt;/strong&gt;, because you want to work light-to-dark. You don't want to put pigment on top of an area that is meant to be light.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Washes&lt;/strong&gt; - typically lighter and less saturated than the subject - come next, so that you can paint the details over top of it. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do a background wash later on, if you're careful not to disturb the other parts. However, it's certainly easier to do first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fill&lt;/strong&gt; in the main subject, taking care with your highlights from earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add &lt;strong&gt;details&lt;/strong&gt; and any dark &lt;strong&gt;shadows&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm listing these together, because the exact order will probably depend on the piece. I've done both ways: sometimes details first so they were also shaded, sometimes details last so they'd be sharper. (Or details, shade, touch up details..)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a dark wash but light fill/details in your painting, you could instead try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Paint the light areas, wait to dry, then carefully outline and do the wash.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark the light areas, paint the wash around them. Clean up edges by lifting the pigment, then paint the light areas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your frog painting is a great example for discussing this, since it has a dark background and dark spots on the lighter subject. My approach would be something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the frog limbs and body color (minus black spots). This would include the color variations e.g. at its nose, after laying down the base color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaf base color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lines on leaf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dark spots on frog: outline with a fine brush around the edge and the highlight spots, then fill in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dark background section at top edge (this could be any time after 2 though, really)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadows: probably on frog body first, then on the leaf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is art - everyone has a different preference, experiment with what works best for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T16:57:24.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1905" CreationDate="2016-08-02T18:08:02.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut it up so it's flat, and once you're done, seal it back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="199" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T18:08:02.107" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2035" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-03T00:16:47.197" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T00:16:47.197" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T00:16:47.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2036" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-03T00:16:47.197" Score="0" Body="For questions about using, storing, mixing or selecting a variety of dyes. Dyes may be used on a variety of objects, not just textiles. If the question is specifically about food coloring dye, use a food-coloring tag." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T00:16:47.197" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T00:16:47.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="186" CreationDate="2016-08-03T07:32:30.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end, I went with balsa wood. I didn't like the way you can see all the plies of plywood. Also, pine apparently isn't easily available in Western Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop employee I talked to claimed that balsa wood has little difference between spring and autumn, which makes it very uniform and easy to saw. It is also very light (of weight and colour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the joint before final polishing and varnishing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CyYLC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am satisfied with the result and would use the same wood next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T07:32:30.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2040" CreationDate="2016-08-03T07:42:49.040" Score="6" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a plywood owl lamp similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.denoestwinkel.nl/a-19310536/nachtlampjes/bosuil-wandlamp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. After sawing the pieces and polishing them, I tried painting them using watercolours. The colour looks good, but the wood has become rough on the edges. I am afraid that polishing again will remove the colour (is this correct?). What paint would be good for this job, provided that I want it to be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively transparent, to see the wood through the colour (i.e., no acrylic);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively cheap (i.e. no varnish &amp;ndash; I will use fully transparent varnish at the end, but don't have the budget to buy many different colours of varnish just for this);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not making the edges of the wood rough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wood is simple 3mm plywood. For the rest I don't know any specs, but don't expect it to have any kind of quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKu2A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKu2A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:13:19.137" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T02:13:19.137" Title="How to avoid / deal with rough edges after painting plywood?" Tags="|paint|medium-selection|wood|woodworking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2038" CreationDate="2016-08-03T15:40:05.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a water based paint, you will for certain cause the grain to raise and funny things that look like tear-out on the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this, before painting, I sand, then intentionally raise the grain with water, i.e. I paint it with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I sand again to remove the raised grain and the tear-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I paint it with pigmented paint - in my case watered-down acrylic which does a nice job of letting the grain show through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T15:40:05.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2038" CreationDate="2016-08-03T15:41:28.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you want to hear this but this is better handled &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; finishing as supposed to mitigating after the fact. Either way I think you need to sand the roughness out you have first then do something to prepare the edges for finishing. In your case finishing would be painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Preparing Plywood Edges&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plywood surfaces are usually finish ready. That is not the case with edges. For larger project you can use banding/veneer or solid wood edging. In your case those would not be ideal since you are working 3mm board. What I think you should do is apply some compound along the edges. You have choices here but you can use wood filler/putty or something simple like drywall mud/compound. Your workflow should be something like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Liberally apply compound of choice. This will ensure you get gaps between the plies if they exist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand again to get smooth finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spoke in the comments about the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6/whats-the-purpose-of-raising-the-grain-before-finishing-a-furniture-piece&quot;&gt;raised grain&lt;/a&gt;. This is the wood swelling from moisture contact. This is a normal occurrence and &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1767/finish-raised-the-grain&quot;&gt;can similarly happen in engineered wood products&lt;/a&gt;. This is more dealt with solid wood products. Plywood still contains solid wood though. Read some of those links to Woodworking.SE that cover those topics in more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you raise the grain and go to sand it again you are just trying to remove the raised grain and not sand the surface of the wood. Doing so will expose more grain and you likely will have the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not convinced that is your issue from the picture. The edges of your wood there really look like tear out or blow out from the saw. Even if I am wrong the following suggestions would still be useful for the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prevent Tear-Out&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cutting wood like this you can try to prevent tearing of the wood fibers, on thin wood like this, by having tape on both sides. Something simple like masking or painters tape can help stop that. You still have to sand of course afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to keep in mind is that the family of saws used for this work (coping, fret and others) almost exclusively only work on the forward or back stroke. It depends how you have the blade mounted of course. Don't but force when the teeth are not going to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Paint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I don't have any suggestions about the paint since I usually use acrylic for applications like this. However you could try thinning the paint with water if you want a more opaque effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T15:41:28.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2016-08-03T20:30:41.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;polystyrene foam and similar materials&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Similar materials&quot; are basically other thermo-plastics (melt when heated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever plastic is melted a certain amount of vapor is emitted, but generally not enough to be especially harmful - apparently safer than breathing the air adjacent to a freeway. All thermo-plastics that normally make it to consumers are fine to melt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get to the point where you are melting plastic long-term, you should use breathing protection devices, at least so say the folks who sell such hardware.  In any event it's a good idea to keep the air clear by using an exhaust fan or by&quot; working outdoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plastic is heated to the point of burning and creating black fumes, you are indeed asking for trouble and prolonged exposure can cause health problems, much like smoking cigarettes - occasional exposure is part of life and our bodies take care of us, repeated exposure over a long period of time might prove to be detrimental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T20:30:41.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2043" CreationDate="2016-08-03T21:35:52.653" Score="5" ViewCount="1827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a silk-screen print on a square sheet of paper.  The corners of the printed area are arcs with about a one inch radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to cut a beveled mat for this print with the opening about a half inch larger than the print area, but I cannot come up with a way to cut the corners.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were making a non-beveled mat, I would use a compass with a blade to make the cut, probably making multiple cuts to make it all the way through the mat. I would cut the arcs first, then join them with straight cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to do the beveled arc would be freehand, following a drawn curve, but I know that I don't have the steadiness to pull this off, certainly not so that all four corners would be identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way would be to use a compass as mentioned above, and arrange the swing leg so that it doubles back to cut at a 45 degree angle, but for it to work it would have to be done in one pass. (If done in multiple passes, each pass would be a slightly different angle, or some magic adjustment would have to be made for each pass.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the straight cuts, I have a Logan beveled mat cutter. (in the old days I just made multiple cuts holding the knife a 45 degree angle - of course being freehand after the first pass, each cut was at a slightly different angle from the previous and the results were not always pretty.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping there is some way to cut the corner arcs with a device that would produce clean bevels like I get from my straight line bevel cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone know how to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T19:23:08.730" Title="Cutting circular corners in beveled mat" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2016-08-03T22:05:36.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They actually make tools for this. They're called circle cutters. Some of them have the option to do a beveled opening. They're designed to make full circles or ovals but I'm sure you could use them for partial ones, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.logangraphic.com/product/handheld-mat-cutters/logan-201-oval-circle-mat-cutter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; has excellent reviews on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0018DXHNU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; and is made by the same company as your straight mat cutter but it looks like it may not be small enough as the minimum circle diameter is 4-3/4 inches and you said you wanted a 2 inch diameter circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of a mat cut with this cutter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CvGw9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CvGw9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mat cuts with cutter tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you'd be able to find a similar product with a smaller diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T22:05:36.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2016-08-03T22:23:03.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Option 1: CNC A DIE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a CNC metal milling machine you could machine a die cutter that is the exact size of your print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make it with a CAD program the radii would all be exactly the same and in perfect alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stamp it out in a single go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you yourself don't have a milling machine then a local makerspace might. There is always custom machining shops but it could be expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OPTION 2: VINYL CUTTER&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to feed your prints through a vinyl cutter. These machines are computer guided swivel knives. Let the machine do the cutting for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, if you don't have a vinyl cutter then checkout a local sign making shop or a local makerspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 3: CUTTING GUIDE AND SCALPEL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more option is to use a cutting guide and disposable scalpel (ex. X-ACTO brand scalpels). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cutting guide would be machined, from metal, with a bevel angle like you require and corners rounded to the desired radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of a self sealing mat you would lay your board down. On top of the board you would then place your cutting guide and get it into position. Remembering to position the bevel guide in the right orientation. Once everything is in place heavy weights would be placed into the cutting guide. These weight are what are going to hold the cutting guide in place while you make the cut. Do not hold the guide down with your free hand!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a disposable scalpel you would run the scalpel following the contour of the guide. This scalpel is the reason for using the weights to hold down the guide instead of your free hand. Scalpels are incredibly sharp. They are also very dangerous! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a sketch of what it would look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I think I got the bevel edge backwards. You would probably want to cut the back of the board and not the front. Also by cutting on the back of the board you could spray adhesive to better hold the cutting guide to the board. Still use the weights. The spray adhesive and weights would hold the cutting guide very well with little worry about it slipping during the cutting process. Also by flipping bevel the other way would be easier to see exactly how and at what angle the scalpel is penetrating the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUA1e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUA1e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 4: CNC MAT BOARD CUTTING MACHINE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a framing store in your area that has a computer controlled CNC mat board cutting machine and pay them to cut it for you. These machines can cut any shape and have the ability to do bevel cuts as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Valiani Maximus CNC Board Cutting Machine&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.valiani.com/computerised_detail.php?ID=17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.valiani.com/computerised_detail.php?ID=17&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T19:23:08.730" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T19:23:08.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="547" CreationDate="2016-08-03T23:28:02.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is with the commercial brands (my wife uses and sells them).  The two main advantages that I see are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;that they allow a very smooth finish with a brush.  If you were to paint furniture with latex paint, you'd get a lot more brush strokes than with chalk paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's easy to do the shabby chic thing (distressing, ageing, etc) with chalk paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's damned expensive, compared to regular latex paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't color match like you can with regular paint (where the paint guy scans a color sample and the computer matches it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not a durable surface at all. For furniture and such it has to be sealed or waxed, which is another step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T23:28:02.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="634" CreationDate="2016-08-04T02:03:43.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there are certainly foams you should exercise caution around when cutting. And an easy way to check what cautions you need to take when working with different foams is to look up the foam's specific MSDS report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MSDS stands for Material Safety Data Sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) is a document that contains information on the potential hazards (health, fire, reactivity and environmental) and how to work safely with the chemical product. It is an essential starting point for the development of a complete health and safety program.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definition taken from the Canadian Centre For Occupational Health and Safety&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/legisl/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/legisl/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple of examples for MSDS reports for different &quot;foams&quot;. The first is the MSDS for rigid foam insulation the other is for Polystyrene Foam. The last link is for the rigid pink foam insulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some foams are safe to cut (knife, saw or heated wire) the other foams require personal protective equipment (PPE) just to be around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn the material you want to work with and study its MSDS sheet before doing anything with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kasteel.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/MSDS-Polarfoam-PF-7300-0-Finished-Foam.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kasteel.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/MSDS-Polarfoam-PF-7300-0-Finished-Foam.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.styreneproducts.com/media/files/SPI%20EPS%20MSDS(1).pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.styreneproducts.com/media/files/SPI%20EPS%20MSDS(1).pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://insulation.owenscorning.com/assets/0/428/429/434/896b50d3-24ef-4263-997a-62927ac03237.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://insulation.owenscorning.com/assets/0/428/429/434/896b50d3-24ef-4263-997a-62927ac03237.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there was another question here on the exchange which talks about the importance of MSDS sheets. If someone knows the link then please edit this answer to include that post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T02:03:43.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2016-08-04T03:44:46.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you  find a tension you are most comfortable with. Make a gauge swatch with the yarn you want to use to see how it compares to the size of the gauge in the pattern. And adjust your hook size, not tension. At least that's how I do it. Also, making hotpads/potholders as practice really helps technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="746" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T10:35:58.147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T10:35:58.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2016-08-04T11:31:57.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000YQDX86&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;G-S Hypo Cement&lt;/a&gt; which works excellent it is somewhat expensive. E-6000 is also a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="748" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T11:31:57.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T12:47:27.377" Score="4" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am embarking on a project which will require me to get 50+ meters of heavy organic cotton jersey digitally printed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sourced a print house to do the printing at a reasonable price and they use dupont inks. They have told me that I don't need to pre-treat my fabric (which I am sourcing elsewhere), that dupont inks adhere well and that I won't lose much colour through washing. I'm not sure if this is actually the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone has experience with these types of inks. I am concerned that if I don't pre-treat my fabric, the colour will fade too much. But pre-treating can be a costly endeavour which I would like to avoid if possible. It is important that I use natural fabric and that the print will withstand a lot of washing. I'm working on a limited budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it true that synthetic fabrics hold colour better than naturals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="749" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T14:41:53.587" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T17:10:03.423" Title="Digital textile printing with Dupont inks onto natural fabrics" Tags="|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2009" CreationDate="2016-08-04T13:51:47.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The properties of the wood, especially its density will have a significant effect on the  tone of the instrument but there is quite a wide variety used as well as various laminates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of critical importance is the stability of the wood as even small amounts of warping can seriously affect play-ability, this is especially the case with the neck which needs to be able to resist the tension of the strings without bowing or twisting. Indeed the necks of most steel strung guitars are fitted with internal 'truss rods' which can be adjusted to balance the tension of the strings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly wood used for musical instruments needs to be very well seasoned this takes time and carefully controlled conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One good option for a first project is that there are several companies selling guitar kits in various degrees of completion with a wide variety of body and necks styles and hardware available. If you want to design your own body shape you could either modify an existing style (the kits are usually clones of popular models/brands) of get one with a through neck so you at lest have the crucial mechanical parts done and the material for the rest of the body becomes less critical. Indeed there have been a few 'fantasy' guitars built around a through neck using foam and fibreglass to sculpt the body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to look for salvaged wood. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.groundguitar.com/brian-may-guitars-and-gear/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brian May famously built his own guitar, with his dad, using wood from a fireplace mantle shelf and other sources&lt;/a&gt;. Hardwood tables and bar tops may also be good sources. These also have the advantage that you know that the wood is well seasoned. Chunky shelves and table tops are often made from mahogany which well suited to making a guitar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T16:02:53.693" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T16:02:53.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-05T02:46:38.583" Score="5" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen pictures of scrolls such as this, that contain their material within a larger metal case, and are read by pulling the material out using a tab on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P4UFQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P4UFQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Skyrim: Elder Scroll&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from game: Skyrim&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of them, such as this one, are not actually real. It makes me curious as to whether or not these kinds of scrolls ever existed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supposing that this kind is real, what real life/ historical scrolls exist that are of this style? What are the basic parts that make up the scroll? I am not looking for complete design specifications but more of a basic schematic.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wSrC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wSrC.png&quot; alt=&quot;DS3 Crystal Scroll&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from Dark Souls 3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I've found another picture, from dark souls 3, that is still fictional though it represents what I'm looking to identify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T05:21:35.940" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T05:21:35.940" Title="What components are involved in this kind of scroll?" Tags="|paper|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2016-08-05T10:26:15.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Epoxy is certainly a good default for wood to metal joints, it also has the advantage in this application that it can be used to fill small gaps between the inlay an the surround and can be coloured or filled (eg with sawdust from the same wood or metal powder) to further disguise the join. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One downside of fluid adhesive is that it is quite difficult to completely eliminate excess glue 'escaping'. How much of a problem this is depends on the exact situation, obviously it is more of an issue where you can't do the final finishing with the wood in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One potential alternative is double sided tape, this is fairly commonly used for inlays and veneers and has the advantage of being very clean and convenient to use and can be cut to the exact shape required.  You can get specific marquetry/veneer tape and there are also a variety of general purpose industrial tapes which should do the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T10:26:15.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2016-08-05T10:40:12.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 'grab' type adhesive intended for construction should work well for this. These are generally very viscous and packaged in caulk gun style cartridges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various different formulations but they have broadly similar properties. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/Gripfill/141&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gripfill&lt;/a&gt; is a common brand but there are many others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These has the advantage that they provide immediate adhesion and are reasonably tolerant of 'difficult' surfaces. They also have good gap-filling properties and so work well for regular shapes where you can't get a good flat contact area between the two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One disadvantage is that being very viscous and sticky they can be a bit messy if you aren't careful. It can help in this respect if you dispense some onto a piece of scrap material (wood, card etc) and use a disposable spatula to apply it with more precision than the cartridge gun allows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T10:40:12.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2053" CreationDate="2016-08-05T11:45:16.450" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;These types of scrolls do exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example is called an &quot;Esther&quot; scroll case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.museumsinisrael.gov.il/en/items/Pages/ItemCard.aspx?IdItem=ICMS_IMJ_366069&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.museumsinisrael.gov.il/en/items/Pages/ItemCard.aspx?IdItem=ICMS_IMJ_366069&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magnes.org/collections/museum/jewish-life/synagogue-and-communal-life/esther-scroll-collection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.magnes.org/collections/museum/jewish-life/synagogue-and-communal-life/esther-scroll-collection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imj.org.il/imagine/galleries/viewWallE.asp?case=34&amp;amp;srm=Purim&amp;amp;swl=The%20Esther%20Scroll&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.imj.org.il/imagine/galleries/viewWallE.asp?case=34&amp;amp;srm=Purim&amp;amp;swl=The%20Esther%20Scroll&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And ... if I were to try to make something similar I would break it down to the following parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FKHEE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FKHEE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T22:54:42.683" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T22:54:42.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1986" CreationDate="2016-08-05T19:30:42.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From this web site for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thermographics.com/specialty-ink/thermochromic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hallcrest&lt;/a&gt; is the following excerpt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hallcrest thermochromic formulations are available as a pigment or a liquid crystal screen ink. Colors and temperatures can be customized to your application and printing capability. Thermochromic Temperature Range: -10ºC to 69ºC (14ºF to 156ºF)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have standard activation temperatures of 15°C, 31°C and 47°C, and offer special activation temperatures in the range of -10°C to 69°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For email and telephone go to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thermographics.com/about/contact-us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T19:30:42.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="528" CreationDate="2016-08-06T16:40:44.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I posted an answer to a similar question on this Exchange.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The reason [paper turns] yellow is because the paper is made from wood pulp and not cotton. Wood is made up of lignin and cellulos. The yellowing in the result of lignin, still present in the fibres of your paper, oxidizing when exposed to sunlight and air.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;To save [the] paper I would recommend two things, 1) Neutralize the residual acids and 2) Seal the paper from contact with the air.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2010/how-to-remove-the-yellowish-color-from-my-old-drawings/2011#2011&quot;&gt;How to remove the yellowish color from my old drawings?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T19:58:19.817" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T19:58:19.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2059" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-06T21:41:04.837" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T21:41:04.837" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T21:41:04.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2060" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-06T21:41:04.837" Score="0" Body="For questions about the creation, uses, cutting, gluing of different types of foam. Foam can be floral foam, Styrofoam, spray foams and more. If the question is about a specific foam, such as Styrofoam, use that tag as well." OwnerUserId="725" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T16:26:04.013" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T16:26:04.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2064" CreationDate="2016-08-07T16:49:46.170" Score="9" ViewCount="15413" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I try to make sketches with a fountain pen on printer paper, it keeps smudging, so I have to restart.  What do I do to prevent smudging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this helps, I'm ambidextrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="763" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T00:39:41.987" LastActivityDate="2018-03-20T19:29:28.297" Title="How do I keep my ink from smudging when I draw?" Tags="|drawing|ink|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2061" CreationDate="2016-08-07T20:21:21.130" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are four things I can think of which will help you avoid smudging your inks are: how you hold your hands over your working surface, controlling the amount of ink on your paper, helping the ink dry quicker, and being present at all times in the drawing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep away from wet areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always keep your hand above the surface of the paper, never resetting the edge of the palm on the paper. Only the tip of the pen is allowed to make contact with the paper. If you do need to stabilize your hand, for some fine detail work, you either stabilize your hand using the tip of your pinky balanced in an area free of ink or you use something like a painter's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;maulstick&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; which gives you a stable surface that is balanced from the outer edges of your working area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove any excess ink helps speed drying time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fountain pens can place generous amounts of ink onto the surface of your paper. This pooled ink takes a long time to dry. To help the drying process you can use something called an &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;ink blotter&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. An ink blotter is a special pad of paper used to soak up excess ink from the surface of the paper. Helps to dry the remaining ink faster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Evaporate the moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use heat to help the ink dry quicker. A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;heat gun&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, or blow dryer, passed gently over the surface of your working surface will help remove the moisture from the ink.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stop and think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to get lost in a drawing and forget what areas you have recently gone over. It's those recently drawn areas which have the greatest change of being accidentally smudged. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Be present in the moment&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, slow down your drawing and pay attention where your pen has been recently and where you want to go to next. Knowing what you have drawn and when it was drawn will help you avoid inadvertently running into still wet ink.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T23:46:26.080" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T23:46:26.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2061" CreationDate="2016-08-07T22:13:27.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer paper may not be the ideal substrate for a fountain pen. Can you try different paper - something specifically made for pen and ink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to try is to use a slanted surface. This is actually one of the keys to writing with quills, which deposit ink even quicker than a fountain pen. If your paper is at a slant, you end up holding the pen almost horizontally, so gravity isn't sending large amounts of ink onto your paper. You'll need to play around with the angle to find that sweet spot between &quot;ink doesn't flow&quot; and &quot;ink flows too quickly&quot; for your particular pen, ink, and paper, but 45 degrees is a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's the obvious thing, though we tend to forget it when drawing: work from the top down and left to right (or right to left if you're left-handed). If you need to go backwards -- upwards or away from your writing direction --, wait for your previous lines to dry, or help them along with a blotter or with sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T22:13:27.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2069" CreationDate="2016-08-08T17:17:45.467" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pokemon Go has been a feature in my family, and the world, as of late. I figured it would be fun to make some pokeballs for the kids. The first time I make something I expect there to be flaws. I make mistakes so that I can learn from them. However I have now made two balls which have similar issues that I see when I make spherical objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1IPN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1IPN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tops of my balls&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the tops of the balls have rather open stitching. I don't have this issue with the bottoms, which is where I started working, as they are tight and closed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WMom.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WMom.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottoms of my balls&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Pokeball-Set/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Based on the instructions I was following&lt;/a&gt;, which are pretty much the same for all balls, I just did the reverse of the inc rows using dec's for the top. When I made the first ball the rows stopped leaving a large circular gap at the top. I added some more stitches to round it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I finish the tops of balls and other spheres so that it looks tighter and not obvious that I finished there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T22:11:34.933" Title="How can I finish the tops of my balls so the stitches are not so open in appearance?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T18:03:52.883" Score="4" ViewCount="6706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about making a scarf at some point like the scarf from the 4th Doctor in the Doctor Who series. The original scarf was knitted, which I am not capable of. I like the appearance of the garter stitch that was used and is commonly used in knitting. Single crochet is a simple enough stitch but the appearance is very different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3EEvp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3EEvp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Knitting and crochet stitches&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(Left) Garter stitch (Right) Single crochet&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that an exact match is not possible, but the garter stitch has those nice horizontal thin rows without the &quot;bulk&quot; of the crochet stitches. I don't think I can just slip stitch this, but is there some stitch or stitches that I could use that would be closer to the image on the left?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T18:37:59.237" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T14:12:34.177" Title="What crochet stitch is similar to a garter stitch in knitting?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2067" CreationDate="2016-08-08T22:11:34.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an amazing tutorial for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buddyrumi.com/blog/2013/7/12/light-bulb-closing-3d-amigurumi-pieces.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to close amigurumi shapes&lt;/a&gt;. It's a bit of work but the results are beautiful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, this method works by creating an identical system to your opening &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crochet-world.com/blog/?p=7618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;magic loop&lt;/a&gt; (if you're using the magic loop start), by adding a drawstring to the last circle of stitches. This drawstring can then be pulled until the circle is completely closed and then tied in place and finished off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mb4g9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mb4g9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closing Amigurumi spheres&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As laid out in the tutorial, the steps are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Decrease the opening in your work until you have 6 to 8 stitches or less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Thread a tapestry needle with the tail left from your work. Insert the needle under the next front loop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Repeat for the remaining stitches pulling the yarn lightly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pull the yarn tightly until the hole closes completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Insert the needle under a loop close to the closed hole. Repeat one more time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pull the yarn until creating a loop and insert the needle into the loop. Pull the yarn creating a knot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Insert the needle into the closed hole and make it come out as far as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pull the yarn until the knot disappears into the piece. Cut the yarn close to the piece, the end will disappear inside it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Piece closed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T22:11:34.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2072" CreationDate="2016-08-09T13:37:07.613" Score="7" ViewCount="14038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a couple of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saratogaspringwater.com/products.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;glass Saratoga bottles&lt;/a&gt;, like the one pictured below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yLoP4.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yLoP4.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to remove the paint from them, but I don't want to use paint thinners or similar solvents. What household tools can I use to remove the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T14:52:11.307" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T05:23:40.077" Title="How can I remove paint from glass bottles w/o paint thinner?" Tags="|paint|glass|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2070" CreationDate="2016-08-09T15:20:22.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is probably a razor blade.  You can also buy them with handles as &quot;glass scrapers&quot; with the decorating supplies, for getting paint off windows. Steel wool shouldn't scratch glass unless you really lean on it or i's got grit in it, so may be handy for the last bits.  Heating the bottle first &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; soften the paint (to heat it without the risk of cracking, put it in a cold oven and turn on) but it may just make the paint smell bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes that there's enough of an edge for the blade to bite. It's also possible that the design is etched.  You may need solvents to get the last little bits off - acteone (nail polish remover) is worth a try if that's more acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T15:20:22.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2070" CreationDate="2016-08-09T17:21:40.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The label is probably a silk-screen label called Applied Ceramic Label, which after screening, is baked onto the container.  It's very difficult to remove.  Scraping and scratching might remove it, but your bottle is going to be much the worse for wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/how-to-remove-painted-on-bottle-labels/#YouWillNeed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Clean site&lt;/a&gt; that claims using a brewer's cleaning product, Star San to soak off the label.  It's an acidic product, available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They advise soaking your label in a pan or bucket containing Star San for 24-48 hours and that the printing will just magically begin to fall off when given a bit of a shake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No indication of what this does to the bucket - the stuff is supposed to clean-up brewing supplies in just a couple of minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T17:21:40.247" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="376" CreationDate="2016-08-09T21:55:11.677" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also make use of a piece of carbon paper by covering the entire area of your drawing board with it, then you can rest your hand freely on the carbon paper and no smudge would occur. This is if the artist's bridge is not readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="774" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T20:16:34.470" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T20:16:34.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T00:54:46.353" Score="7" ViewCount="4962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on a collage with some packaging paper that I received in a shipment from somewhere and I'd like to get some more.  There are some pictures of this kind of paper in Google Images and it is referred to as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.123rf.com/photo_36470125_closeup-of-brown-paper-packaging-cut-to-create-a-mesh.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brown Packaging Paper mesh&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7Ox7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7Ox7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brown packing mesh paper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering whether anyone here might have some suggestions as to how I could get some more of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="776" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T15:20:33.783" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T20:30:20.123" Title="Where can I get brown packing paper mesh?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2074" CreationDate="2016-08-10T01:35:30.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I want larger volumes of packing material, I tend to look to two sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Self-storage facilities. A lot of these places offer boxes and other packing/storage material and may offer cardboard options as opposed to traditional bubble wrap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Self-moving companies like U-haul, amongst others, who can supply a lot of the basic packing and storage material for a move.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, office supply like Grand &amp;amp; Toy, Staples, etc. would be next on my list. Actually, given some convenience, they might be first. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T02:22:30.377" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T02:22:30.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1918" CreationDate="2016-08-10T05:04:31.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take it apart&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Desolder the near and far corners of the frame - easier said than done, but just patiently melt the solder and push it away with the tip of the soldering iron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glue the broken glass back together&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once half the frame is removed, the broken pieces will probably still adhere to the foil, but still be flexible to allow the insertion of your favorite glass glue - e.g. Loctite.  Of course this does nothing about patching the missing shard of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Place copper foil patches in the cracks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once half the frame is removed, the broken pieces will have to be removed. If you're lucky the pieces of glass will slip off the foil.  If the foil continues to adhere to the glass, it might be necessary to peel off some of the solder coated foil and replace it.  As for filling in the cracks, the pieces will need to ground down so that cracks become wide enough to accommodate foil.  Foil the pieces, coat with solder on both sides of the piece, and reattach the frame pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do nothing&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repairing with foil is going to look really klutzy. Using glue still leaves a gap where the chip of glass is missing, not much different from doing nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T05:04:31.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:47:03.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As both material are kind of mineral, I think the same glue should work on both. The surface must be clean, in other words free of grease and dust. Ethanol or isopropanol work usually well. It will glue better on rough surface, so if it fits in your work sand paper the surface before cleaning and applying glue. For the shell, depending on the type, maybe some vinegar can make it rough (acidity will attack the calcium of the shell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am gluing small stones on substrate with cyanoacrylate (Superglue). It is a thin glue, so it won't fill the &quot;holes&quot; between the stones but will be almost invisible and should also stick if the contact surface is small. Time for the glue to set is extremely quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to glue and fill the hole at the same time, 2 components epoxy such as Araldit should work and some are transparent. Those glues are usually quite &quot;thick&quot; but you can make them thinner by heating them (with a hair dryer for example) but they will also set faster with the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had success gluing gravel on substrate using PVC glue (wood glue, or &quot;colle blanche&quot; in French), but I don't think it will do if the contact surface is small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:47:03.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2016-08-10T19:21:28.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This image was created digitally (as a few have mentioned) however, that doesn't mean that the same sort of style can't be achieved with traditional mediums. I think what it comes down to in this case is which medium do you feel like you can handle skill-wise and money-wise at this point in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example- you can create the same effects in oil paints, but it can be expensive, and much more time-consuming than dry mediums like pencils. For this, you'd need the oil paints, a variety of oil brushes, a few palette knives, and either turpentine or turpenoid just to get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get similar effects in watercolor paint. For this, get a variety of watercolor brushes (do NOT use the same brushes as you use with oil paints, as the oil and water won't mix), the paints (tubes are great), and make sure the paper you use is specifically made to handle the buckling that happens with watercolor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think a question you can ask yourself if you just started a year ago is do you want to start painting, or do you enjoy dry mediums enough that it can wait until you're more advanced? You can make similar beautiful pieces with the mediums you have already used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://paoloamico87.deviantart.com/art/lost-city-ball-point-pens-on-paper-324433901&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This was created with ballpoint pen.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deviantart.com/art/Footpath-626020923&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This was created with pastels.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not every artist is a painter, and not all beautiful artworks are paintings. In the interest of being well-rounded, painting is certainly a great step, and you can learn a lot doing it, but it's definitely an altogether different ball game than drawing. While the principles are the same, the techniques are completely different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T19:21:28.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2081" CreationDate="2016-08-10T20:02:15.203" Score="3" ViewCount="1473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a very small chest for holding small desk items, the chest itself being small enough to stand on a desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is raw, unfinished wood, though it has been sanded smooth. I'm not sure what sort of wood it is, but it has a light color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to paint it like a replica of one from a video game and would like to make it look old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best paint type to use on  this wood that will be long-lasting?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Will I need to pre-treat the wood at all?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How should I finish it to both make it look old &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; protect the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what the chest looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dyv1Xm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dyv1Xm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small chest&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="778" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T14:04:54.030" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T22:59:43.177" Title="What kind of paints should I use to color / paint on bright wood material?" Tags="|paint|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2080" CreationDate="2016-08-11T02:07:15.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For natural wood that you want to look like wood, think staining, not painting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make that chest look like an old, beaten-up treasure chest, get two colors of stain: one medium-toned one, such as maple or chestnut, and one darker one, like dark walnut or maybe even ebony. For such a small box, you won't need much stain, especially of the darker color, so see if you can get sample sizes. You'll also need some good varnish or polyurethane, not too glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, stain the whole box with your lighter stain, following the instructions on the package. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that's dry, add some realistic-looking damage or weathering: drop the box on its corners a few times to dent/round them off, get something hard and heavy and drop it on top of the box to add dents and gouges, etc.: get creative, but not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; creative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, use the dark stain to add &quot;dirt&quot;: rub the stain over the box, then immediately wipe it off, but don't do too good a job. The dark stain will remain in the dents and gouges, but not on the surface. Leave more dark stain along the edges and around the hardware. Use a toothbrush to flick stain onto the box to imitate mildew spots. Look up some pictures of the type of old chest you're trying to imitate to figure out where the &quot;dirt&quot; should go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the darker stain has dried as well, and you're reasonably satisfied with how it looks, finish the box with a varnish or polyurethane coating. This is what will make it durable; it will also deepen the colors of the stains. If the result starts looking unrealistic, wait for the varnish to dry, then basically sand it off (or mostly off), adjust the stain, let dry, and varnish again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to reproduce the metal strapping of the classical &quot;treasure chest&quot;, you have several options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1, you can get what's called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/pure-metal-tooling-foil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tooling foil&lt;/a&gt;&quot; or &quot;embossing foil&quot; at the craft store. It's basically like aluminum foil, only much heavier than even the heavy-duty foil you can buy for culinary purposes. However, it's still light enough that it can be pretty easily cut with ordinary scissors (well, OK, so don't use your nice Gingher fabric scissors - steal the kids' craft scissors instead). To use it, cut out strips in the shape you want, and glue or nail them to your box. You can then use your wood stain to give the metal a more distressed finish. If the stain doesn't seem to be sticking, rub the metal with steel wool to remove the protective finish, and then try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2, you can try doing the same thing as option 1, just using ordinary heavy-duty aluminum foil and glue. You can even spray-paint the foil with brass-colored paint. The advantage of this, besides being cheaper, is that the thickness of regular aluminum foil is more in proportion with your small box than the 36 gauge stuff, so you can go ahead and, say, wrap the edges of the opening in a realistic-looking manner, without danger of preventing the box from closing properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 3, you can get some brass-colored craft paint and paint on the strapping. Do this after staining but before varnishing, and then varnish everything once both the stain and the paint are dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T22:59:43.177" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T22:59:43.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1972" CreationDate="2016-08-11T18:25:02.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on how hard the plaster is. Plasters are broadly divided into alpha (hard) and beta (soft) plus a range of hybrids of the two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Softer plasters (especially while still a bit damp) can easily be carved with knives and woodwork type chisels (but don't use expensive fine quality ones). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stanleytools.com/en-us/products/hand-tools/woodworking-tools/files-surform/10-in-surform-round-file/21-297&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Microplane/surform&lt;/a&gt; rasps are very effective on plaster, especially for roughing out shapes as they are less prone to clogging than other abrasive files. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single cut rotary burrs can also be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harder plasters, when thoroughly dry can be worked with most abrasives and will take finer detail. It is also possible to seal the surface when it is close to the final form with water based lacquers, varnishes or shellac to get more of a polish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is that any plaster creates fine dust which tends to clog tools quite quickly and, as it also absorbs moisture very readily can also make steel tools corrode very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rough shaping, drills and saws can also be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T19:48:20.807" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T19:48:20.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T00:33:58.967" Score="6" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using air dry clay more precisely Thai clay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to make sure the shape is not disturb while drying? I had made a cornet shape similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8iOel.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8iOel.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cornet shape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I left it to dry overnight the shape distorted and formed a base so that the clay could stand up. However, I don't want it form a base as I want it to keep the circle shape. How can I accomplish that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="659" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T01:44:14.020" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T16:45:38.423" Title="How can I stop my air drying clay from losing its shape as it dries?" Tags="|clay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2090" CreationDate="2016-08-12T02:25:41.817" Score="3" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a subwoofer tube for a DIY guitar amp project I'm working on and it is covered with a kind of &quot;carpet&quot; which seems to be glued on to a very dense cardboard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://m.ebay.com/itm/Nippon-TUBO12-12-Subwoofer-Tube-Box-/141837396321&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IcrsCm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IcrsCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Subwoofer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I remove the flocking/carpet and glue underneath? Or should I remove the glue at all? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to paint or cover the thing with a thick coat of a very shiny black as well as some modifications so would leaving the glue on make a better surface? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very new to this so thanks for any help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T21:20:31.703" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T21:20:31.703" Title="Removing glued on material from this subwoofer" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2084" CreationDate="2016-08-12T02:31:41.843" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a support armature to hold up your sculpture while it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice, in your photo, there is something that looks pink icing. That might be how that artist hid where the armature was inserted to hold up their sculpture. After the sculpture dried the armature was removed and the hole that was left behind was hidden by the icing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T02:31:41.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2016-08-12T03:40:17.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your tube is likely made from something like MDF or Medium Density Fiberboard. It is a common engineered wood product that creates a firm and heavy board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the flocking, if you want to remove it, I think the easier solution would be to using some sort of abrasive. Consider something like steel wool or a hand held sander. I caution the use of sanders as they are likely to clog up quickly with stray flocking. If you do use one be sure to clean the paper and change accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might have a hard time with the glue using this method but using solvents &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be bad choice here and could likely damage the MDF underneath (MDF hates moisture and liquid contact as it makes it swell). That being said many people have had luck just using alcohol, to dissolve the glue, and scrap it of. Sometimes with several passes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should leave you with a rough surface when complete. I would suggest wearing eye and mouth protection to keep the smaller particles out of your eyes and lungs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T03:47:29.203" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T03:47:29.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2085" CreationDate="2016-08-12T17:08:33.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this picture from the same source as the one included in the question.  It shows more of the internal detail and gives a better look at the covering.  I left it at size large so the detail could more easily be seen.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jwZz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jwZz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tube is definitely made of wood, my guess would be either bent plies or straight barrel staves.  In any event it looks durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The covering looks like it is a woven fabric that is skillfully cut and glued to the barrel.  See how it is folded into the opening and reveals some unevenness at the edges where it has been cut to fit the smaller diameter of the inside as compared to the outside of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation for removal of the fabric is to use a heat gun that will soften the glue and allow you to peel off the fabric. Easier said than done because the fabric will quite likely tear and require the use of some sort of scraper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the glue becomes solid after cooling from the heat treatment you can sand it off.  If it remains tacky, you can use some sort of solvent as @matt suggests.  You definitely want to remove the glue because if not, you will have a rough, irregular surface that will be telegraphed through your shiny black paint - even if it's a thick layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T17:08:33.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2101" CreationDate="2016-08-12T19:12:23.480" Score="7" ViewCount="2848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at the stitching on my hammock, wondering what kind of stitch it is and how to do it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see this marketed as a &quot;triple interlocking stitch.&quot; But searching on Google only brings up marketing materials for hammocks. I cannot find info on how to actually sew it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pictures of the frontside and backside of the stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Amolh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Amolh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frontside of triple interlocking stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L8sw2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L8sw2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;backside of triple interlocking stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="788" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T08:18:57.140" Title="What is a &quot;triple interlocking stitch&quot;?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2091" CreationDate="2016-08-14T15:03:44.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a “triple interlocking stitch”?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your sewing machine may or may not have this stitch option. It’s Option #2 on (this) machine out of its seventy-five settings, which makes (one) think it’s fairly common on newer machines. It’s also known as a stretch stitch, or triple stretch stitch. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sewaholic.net/what-is-triple-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sewaholic.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvzK8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvzK8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sewing options&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a triple stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It looks like this on most machines and makes every stitch 3 times over (think more like backstitching, not side by side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So what's the big deal with using this particular stitch?  It's meant for projects that require strength &amp;amp; elasticity and eliminates puckering on knits.  This makes it ideal for t-shirts, shorts and other knit items that are frequently used for appliqué.  I noticed on factory made appliqués, especially those on knits, you typically see stitching like this and that explains why those tend to last longer &amp;amp; look nicer than a lot of DIY versions. - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sewcando.com/2013/06/purr-fectly-easy-applique-method-for.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sew Can Do.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this particular stitch in a project some years ago with a machine that did only one stretch stitch at a time. What I did is folded the edges of both materials in in opposite directions, interlocked the two hems and proceeded to baste the two pieces of fabric together. Once the basting was done, I passed the material through my sewing machine. When the first stitch line was completed, I repeated this stitch a second and a third time. It was not perfect , but it worked very well. I would suggest you go very slowly trying this out and at the same time trying to keep the stitch straight and in horizontal union with the stitch next to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps and that I explained myself clearly enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T21:30:22.187" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T21:30:22.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5936" CreationDate="2016-08-15T16:58:32.487" Score="5" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several animation cels on celluloid. Does anyone have advice or references on how to mount and preserve them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will be on display, so they'll need to be preserved against possible light damage, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T12:41:29.030" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T17:03:20.440" Title="Preservation of Animation Cels" Tags="|preservation|celluloid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2099" CreationDate="2016-08-15T19:40:07.233" Score="7" ViewCount="1022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got some Super Glue on the sole of my shoe, while working on a craft. Luckily, my shoe wasn't on the ground long enough to be glued to the floor, but now, the entire bottle of superglue is stuck to my shoe (it's a small, 5 mL bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get the Super Glue (or CA glues) off my shoe (or other materials, like my hands)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T23:00:15.923" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T09:16:27.390" Title="How can I remove CA glues (e.g. Super Glue) from a material?" Tags="|safety|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2016-08-15T19:40:07.233" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While superglue is strong enough to seal many things, it does have an enemy: acetone. Acetone is able to break down superglue bonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the superglue off of your shoe, try and use nail polish remover (that contains acetone). Be careful though, since acetone is known to be able to dry your hands quickly though. Using this should do the trick. Just remember, take your time, and wash off all the glue and nail polish remover when you are done. As acetone dries your skin, you may want some lotion handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional aside, pointed out by user24, this won't work effectively on plastics, which it destroys, or other materials, such as wood, that may soak up the acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2021-05-30T09:16:27.390" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T09:16:27.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2100" CreationDate="2016-08-16T00:06:14.553" Score="8" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;A continuation of my Poké Ball woes: I want to improve my decrease technique. Consider the image of the tops of my balls (where the balls are finished and tied off):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1IPN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tops of my balls&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; top where the tie-off occurs has already been addressed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2067/how-can-i-finish-the-tops-of-my-balls-so-the-stitches-are-not-so-open-in-appeara&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt;, but that does not help the decreases leading up to the end. The picture hides it more than it appears in real life, but you can easily see the Poly-fil between the stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, this is how I decrease:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert your hook into the next stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert your hook into the next stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yarn over and draw the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is exacerbated with a project where multiple decreases - both beside and on top of each other - occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I do my Poké Ball decreases so they appear tighter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T10:12:05.510" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T10:12:05.510" Title="How can I do my Poké Ball decreases so they appear tighter?" Tags="|crocheting|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2016-08-16T14:06:50.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetone is the well-rounded budget conscious option. &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2097/44&quot;&gt;Zizouz212's answer generally covers this&lt;/a&gt;. It is hardly the only option though. It largely depends on the material the glue is on well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to skin (not a material but certainly somewhere glue ends up) warm soapy water is certainly effective. How long you scrub or immerse depends on the amount of glue. Getting it on your fingers is common and in some cases you can just let it harden and it will peel off. This is where I get CA glue stuck often and I just peel off what I can and wash the remainder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using acetone on plastics, with the intent to remove just the CA glue, is a very bad idea as it can dissolve/damange many of them. Acetone is one of the ingredients used in plastic welding applications if it puts that in perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many commercial debonders that are made for this purpose. An example would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8458__Un_Cure_CA_Debonder_1_oz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Un-Cure CA Debonder&lt;/a&gt;. You should know the materials you are working with to best match your debonder. Depending on your project these can be more effective but, again, have a higher cost then on the shelf acetone/ nail polish remover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood, especially end grain, will actually absorb CA glue. If you actually needed to remove the glue you would have to remove the affected wood. Depending on the project you could use plastic wood filler or glue in new wood. This advice is not specific to CA glue but most glues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clothing is a broad topic as well as there are a multitude of different materials so there is no guaranteed approach. Acetone is generally recommended here but try to test it in a non visible area to ensure that it would damage/stain the fabric. Letting the affected area sit in some water and laundry detergent can also help. Using a toothbrush to massage the area and try to get the glue to flake off. Some debonders also work on fabrics as well keeping in mind the same caveats for clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general CA glue should be easy enough to remove. If there is concern, wear protective clothing and be aware of the specific materials that could come into contact with CA glue so you know the best approach to deal with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T18:13:24.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2098" CreationDate="2016-08-16T16:07:48.337" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll enjoy trying what's called the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.planetjune.com/blog/amigurumi-help/invisible-decrease/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;invisible decrease&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By running through two stitches but not actually making the base of both of them, it tightens up the space and only shows a single stitch. It can actually be challenging to see where the decrease is after it's completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the linked article (there are images included for both right and left-handed users to help if you visit the blog):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (2 loops on hook). DO NOT YARN OVER:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch. To do this, you’ll need to swing the hook down first so you can insert the hook under the front loop. (3 loops on hook)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (2 loops on hook)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. Invisible decrease completed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note, because this is specifically geared towards amigurumi figures, it expects that you're using single crochets. I'm not sure if there's an adjustment that allows this to work with other size stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compare, here are images that show the three options for decreases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These first two images are skipping a stitch and the standard single crochet two together (sc2tog). In both cases, the decrease is pretty obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.planetjune.com/blog/how-to-invisible-decrease/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kR0C4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Standard stitch decreases&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's what the invisible decrease looks like, which is nearly indistinguishable compared to the other two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QUFiD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QUFiD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Invisible Decrease&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T16:07:48.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2091" CreationDate="2016-08-17T08:18:57.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That was made by a triple needle chain stitch machine.  You can tell it was done in one pass with a triple needle machine because the holes align perfectly along the length of the stitch (making it very likely they were all formed at the same time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell it's a chain stitch (as opposed to a lock stitch, which a typical household sewing machine makes) by the way the stitches are formed on the back.  Another common place to see chain stitches in your house is on jeans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of chain stitching (and the reason it is used in commercial applications like this) is that it doesn't require a bobbin.  A home sewing machine is a &lt;em&gt;lock stitch&lt;/em&gt; machine, which means the top thread is twisted around a bottom thread by passing over the bobbin on each stitch.  The bobbin is limited in size because the top thread has to go around it.  A chain stitch machine can sew much longer without interruption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I think I see three threads on the back, which is a double chain stitch.  Those extra threads don't actually add any strength.  More the opposite -- chain stitches can easily be unraveled if the thread breaks, just like pulling apart a row of knitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to recreate that seam, just sew three times with your home machine on straight stitch.  You won't be able to recreate the stitch length (your home machine just won't make stitches that long), which will cause a bit of extra puckering (shortening along the seam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far more important than exactly what stitch you use is to use a good bonded polyester thread or an outdoor item like a hammock will fall apart when the thread rots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you want to see an industrial machine that could do this, Google something like &quot;triple needle six thread chain stitch&quot;.  Six threads because it's a double chain stitch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="808" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T08:18:57.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2123" CreationDate="2016-08-17T21:07:21.193" Score="5" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently making a wool cape for the upcoming winter. The pattern recommends to finish the edges with a leather binding, and I have opted to do so. My main problem is that I know you're not supposed to use pins for leather as it leaves marks, and I don't have many bulldog clips. Plus, I did try one edge and it was the most stressful thing as once i took a clip off to sew a section, I would have to push the binding over the wool, resulting in some missed sections where I sewed the binding together without the wool. Are there any techniques that make this process any easier? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="813" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T22:54:41.053" Title="What's the easiest way to pin and sew leather binding?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2113" CreationDate="2016-08-17T22:19:58.743" Score="6" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if working bare hand when doing bookbinding could be detrimental for the paper, more specifically when binding a sketchbook or paper intended for watercolor painting or calligraphy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those papers are specifically acid free to preserve the pigments. I am wondering if touching, folding and or pressing it with bare hands will not make it more acidic or will leave some residue preventing the good adhesion of color to it? Has anyone experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T22:40:28.537" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T07:32:53.670" Title="Acidity of hands when binding books" Tags="|preservation|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2105" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:10:50.677" Score="-1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious as to whether to think about selling my drawings or not to. The drawings that I have done I've been told look really good and I was wondering about if it would be worth anything. I don't think it will be worth anymore than £5 - £10 as I don't think the are as good as other peoples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T21:41:01.147" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T21:41:01.147" Title="Should I think about selling my drawings? Am I good enough?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-08-18T18:25:32.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2104" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:31:24.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a spot. Setup a booth. Set a price. Take a shower and brush your teeth. Dress well. And sell!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to go through the actions and learn the process: not only the process of creating your art, but also learning the process of selling your art and and selling who you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like making art you won't learn how it's done unless you go forth and do it for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never question whether your art is good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead ask yourself, how do I make my art better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you do that through practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set up the booth and practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T17:31:24.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2102" CreationDate="2016-08-18T19:04:57.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In quilting a binding, we use Clover Wonder clips. These just hold the binding in place and you sew up to the clip and then remove the clip and then keep sewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A product description explains why they would excel in sewing applications&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clip and hold, Clip and Sew right where you need it! Great Holding capacity for different types of crafts. Wonder Clips have a wide opening for holding multiple layers of fabric. It won't damage or distort the fabric. &lt;strong&gt;Wonder Clip base is flat for easy feeding to presser foot&lt;/strong&gt; with 1/4&amp;quot; and 1/2&amp;quot; seam allowance markings on the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Product description from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clover-usa.com/en/accessories/108-wonder-clips-100-pcs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clover USA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T23:21:27.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2109" CreationDate="2016-08-18T22:02:47.780" Score="6" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find a tool I had a long time ago. Uses probably range from locating to measuring. Could be used for anything really, drawing to wood carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The device is expandable. In its initial position it would look almost like a + ; when fully expanded it would look like a square. Basically it is two pieces of L-shaped metal that slide, but are joined with two sliding rivets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/64dTv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/64dTv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(red represents the sliding rivets and the left image represents fully closed, while the right represents an expanded state)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="822" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T13:00:34.143" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T11:14:01.073" Title="What is the name of this sliding collapsing square tool?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2107" CreationDate="2016-08-19T00:57:14.297" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you might be looking for some variant of a &lt;strong&gt;double try square&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Try_square&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;try square&lt;/a&gt; is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a woodworking or a metal working tool used for marking and measuring a piece of wood. The square refers to the tool's primary use of measuring the accuracy of a right angle (90 degrees); to try a surface is to check its straightness or correspondence to an adjoining surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A traditional try square has a broad blade made of steel that is riveted to a wooden handle or &amp;quot;stock&amp;quot;. The inside of the wooden stock usually has a brass strip fixed to it to reduce wear. Some blades also have graduations for measurement. Modern try squares may be all-metal, with stocks that are either die-cast or extruded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find a picture of a &lt;em&gt;double&lt;/em&gt; try square, with two L-shapes linked together, as you're looking for, but here are various images of single try squares taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/tools/measlist.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZOdWm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZOdWm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with handle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UakV4m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UakV4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;many&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8glvSm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8glvSm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;metal&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0k5PVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0k5PVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bevel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second of these is called a &lt;strong&gt;framing square&lt;/strong&gt; and the third a &lt;strong&gt;bevel square&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;machinist square&lt;/strong&gt; is the all-metal equivalent of a try square. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machinist_square&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A machinist square or engineer's square is the metalworkers' equivalent of a try square. It consists of a steel blade inserted and either welded or pinned into a heavier body at an angle of 90°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More pictures, from various sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOBbbm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOBbbm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with handles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKkbzm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKkbzm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;many&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x16Sw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x16Sw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two together&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lX2AGm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lX2AGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;one fancy, one simple&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully at least some of these look similar to what you're hunting for, or at worst will give you some helpful search terms!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T00:57:14.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2107" CreationDate="2016-08-19T01:46:39.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you have is an adjustable viewfinder, a tool used by artists to help frame a scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By sliding the arms along the guides you are able adjust the view of the scene you are trying to capture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Helps the artist to learn how to control the content, design and layout of an image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example from the Derwent company. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fzm30.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DERWENT DRAWING TOOL[1]&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of someone using their fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1y5Dd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1y5Dd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T01:46:39.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2068" CreationDate="2016-08-19T13:50:39.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AFGHAN STITCH CROCHET AKA TUNISIAN CROCHET&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;about.com has some instructions on this stitch. It is a very easy crochet stitch that is similar to knitting. Now, it doesn't look exactly like a garter stitch, but the mechanics can get you closer to knitting. And the garter stitch is the easiest knit stitch to learn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference with this stitch is that you will need a longer crochet hook about 11 - 12 inches long, because you are loading the yarn onto the hook just like in knitting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NEW INFO WITH GRAPHICS&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8FyPM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8FyPM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;purl Tunisian stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Basic instructions for Tunisian Crochet&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fx6as.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fx6as.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tunisian stitch simple&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;Alternate would be the Russian Stitch which does not need the longer hook.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cK39t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cK39t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Russian Stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rose Stitch&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lS3Jx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lS3Jx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/crochet&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;crochet&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;crochet&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T14:12:34.177" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T14:12:34.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2016-08-19T15:58:06.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For other materials, &lt;em&gt;hot&lt;/em&gt; water can do the trick.  Some plastics can handle even boiling water but not acetone, for example, and it may also work better on fabrics when the glue has soaked in.  I used to remove it from glass regularly by bringing a beaker of water to the boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T15:58:06.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2103" CreationDate="2016-08-21T00:13:00.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to do bookbinding for several years and never had any problems  with using bare hands. I only used latex gloves when repairing fragile books and/or paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using new, clean and strong paper, I would not hesitate to recommend using bare hands in your bookbinding process. You should not experience any detrimental effects on the paper you use, I never did. I have better grip without gloves and thus more confidence in folding paper by hand. That said it would be prudent to keep your hands free of excessive perspiration and very clean, especially from dirt, ink and glue.  Wash your hands as often as required and make sure your hands are definitely dry before recommencing your bookbinding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small hint: Do not slide your hands over any ink because it could smear. If you need to make a very crisp fold, I would suggest using a sheet of clear plastic to slide your hands over inked areas. Slide your hands over the plastic and not the ink marked spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T00:13:00.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2114" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-21T03:43:18.877" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T03:43:18.877" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T03:43:18.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2115" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-21T03:43:18.877" Score="0" Body="For questions about celluloid, a type of plastic primarily used in arts for animation cels (cel being short for celluloid)." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T03:43:18.877" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T03:43:18.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2116" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-21T03:48:01.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T03:48:01.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T03:48:01.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2117" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-21T03:48:01.480" Score="0" Body="For questions about writing implements that use a type of ink, including types such as ballpoint, fountain, quill. Use the &quot;ink&quot; tag for questions specifically about ink." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T03:48:01.480" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T03:48:01.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2119" CreationDate="2016-08-22T18:01:21.773" Score="9" ViewCount="5015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make my own perforated edges on paper, so I can tear certain designs instead. I don't like the odds of tears when I just fold back and forth, and I don't want to use cutting in this case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making some small books and I want to take my printed pages and make them easy to tear out. But some pages might have tear-out shapes, as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a tool I can use to easily make perforations instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T04:25:34.827" Title="How can I make my own perforated edge?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2118" CreationDate="2016-08-22T20:24:17.917" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sewing machine without thread does a great job at making a perforation in most paper. Depending on the settings it can be rather coarse, or quite fine. Much of this will depend on what stitch types your machine is capable of. I would not use your nicest needle however, as it will most likely wear prematurely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, there are purpose built perforators available for ordering online, that work much like a rotary paper cutter, with the obvious difference that they do not completely sever the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T20:24:17.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T00:35:46.830" Score="2" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to attach a relatively small piece of ABS plastic to another. The small piece is about 4 mm wide, 1 mm tall, and I can make it between 3-6 mm long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to attach it so that 1 mm of the plastic hangs out over the edge of the other piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This overhang will be subject to regular, small pressure. It's a catch for another piece, to hold it in place. It's not a lot of pressure to hold it, but the pressure of catching and uncatching it can be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYU8z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYU8z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at this diagram, I need to fuse the blue parts, so that the red part can by slid on and off vertically. The red and blue parts that overlap are slightly rounded, and the red has some give, which makes the catching fairly easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, this is for a modification to an action figure. The catch is the kind you'll find on Transformer action figures, which gently hold pieces in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T08:14:29.707" Title="How can I fuse separate, small pieces of ABS plastic that can withstand pressure?" Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="313" CreationDate="2016-08-23T13:59:07.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am looking for a machine which would help me do basic stitches and&#xA;  hems on clothing and other thin materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay away from too much stitch variety. When looking for the basics in a machine, too many stitches mean more complicated electronics, which means more things can go wrong with the machine. The absolute basics of a machine: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;straight stitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;zig zag stitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two stitches will do a majority of the work especially when starting out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any particular things I need to be looking for or testing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test the zig zag at the widest setting to see that the needle is always picking up the bobbin thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tension should be adjustable, functioning and no parts are rusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring fabric samples with you to test the machine, as well as the proper needle size and point for the fabrics. Tension issues always start with the proper needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it clean? Look for build up of lint in the bobbin area - there should be none. Also ask if the machine was routinely oiled. When was the last time the owner brought it to the shop for a tune up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the parts made from: metal or plastic and are they replaceable? This will help you negotiate price, metal parts would be more valuable as they are more durable. Name brand recognition can help you find out if the parts are replaceable and whether there is a local machine repair shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the flywheel move smoothly by hand and foot pedal?&#xA;Are &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; comfortable with the speed? Can you control the needle action using the pedal at both at top speed and slowest speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T14:33:52.653" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T14:33:52.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2102" CreationDate="2016-08-23T18:01:49.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IF your machine is capable, you can't buy the Wonder Clips -which i also recommend, and you haven't stocked up on these items already... Do so! It will all make a difference.. Figure out what clips work best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leather Needles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Required thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double sided leather tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large Paper Clips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clothespins (wooden or plastic - just make sure they are strong)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Research, research, research&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ALWAYS Practice on scraps beforehand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do your best not to stretch the leather as your sewing it. Also, you can pin in a few spots where you'll be sewing, if you must. Just hand feed very slowly while removing the pins. Apparently the leather tape causes less needle gum up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T22:54:41.053" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T22:54:41.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1839" CreationDate="2016-08-23T20:09:14.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've checked that my feed dogs are up, that the tension is on, that my&#xA;  bobbin is in the correct way, and that the upper thread is correctly&#xA;  threaded. Is there any other issues I should investigate before&#xA;  getting my machine looked at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as to not be redundant, since you've checked most of the stuff that would go wrong first I suggest the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needle point is important, be sure when sewing wovens you are using a needle with a sharp point (knits use ball point). The size of the needle is crucial. &#xA;The weight of the thread may be too thick for this woven fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bobbin tension with this thread could be part of the issue. Try a different thread in the bobbin and topstitch with the thicker thread. Sometimes that's a good workaround for thread thickness. Different machines have the option to adjust the tension on bobbin casings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the bobbin holder and the entire bobbin area - no lint whatsoever. Test the machine with this thread and needle using muslin. Is this happening with other woven fabrics and other thread? If so, the timing is probably off. A tune up would be a good way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T20:09:14.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="547" CreationDate="2016-08-24T03:15:53.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole appeal of Chalk Paint is the matte/flat result achieved on a variety of surfaces, requiring little to no prep, fast dry time, opacity control &amp;amp; finishing options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To achieve a textured surface, additional products/tools, techniques and/or a different recipe is needed. The better quality of latex paint &amp;amp; type of finish (flat is recommended), produces slightly different &amp;amp; better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why you chose that particular recipe. Or why the first step says to paint the first layer w/o any drywall compound mixed in... The 3 well tested, popular recipes, use different ingredients, have flexible mix measurements, and instruct to apply directly to the object. I always do TONS of research beforehand when it comes to diy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal to no prep required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to adhere to a variety of surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finishing options&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Muted colors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Matte/Flat finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick dry time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variety of Chalk Paint Brands, now available in store.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finishing work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trend (resulting in large quantities of ruined pieces)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T15:43:53.970" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T15:43:53.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2167" CreationDate="2016-08-25T10:20:16.783" Score="2" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start sculpting to attain a very specific type of result but I'm unsure where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I want to be able to achieve the sculpting of figures. After training, I target two goals : being able to get &lt;a href=&quot;http://goodsmileshop.com/en/CATEGORY-ROOT/WONDERFUL-HOBBY-SELECTION/Harbour-Princess/p/MAX_WHS_WD_00007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this result&lt;/a&gt; as well as being capable of modifying &lt;a href=&quot;http://goodsmileshop.com/en/CATEGORY-ROOT/figma/figma-archetype%3Ashe-flesh-color-ver-%28Re-release%29/p/MAX_FIG_WD_EX01SHE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this figure&lt;/a&gt; to create a custom one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that to achieve such results, I would need molds to pour ABS or PVC and obtain a paintable figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; experience sculpting clay but it was for large creations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's get to the practical part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A family member (sculptor) recommended me some kind of &lt;em&gt;'air-drying'&lt;/em&gt; clay that would allow me to re-use it (when not satisfied by the result) by putting it in water. Did I understand this correctly ? Is it a good place to start ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think that I also need some sculpting tools but I'm not really sure about the one I &lt;strong&gt;absolutely&lt;/strong&gt; need and the ones that are superfluous. Could you enlighten me on this point ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To strengthen the sculpture, I think it is necessary to have a structure holding it. What would you recommend ? Metallic wire ? Wooden sticks ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last but not least, is there a good way to sculpt 'realistic' poses and characters ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think of any thing a beginner should know, don't hesitate to give me advices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if the question is not clear enough or needs correction, please point it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt; : The clay I'd be using would be &lt;em&gt;'air-drying'&lt;/em&gt; (not sure if it's called like that), reuseable (when put in water) clay. I hope that's specific enough. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="843" LastEditorUserId="843" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T17:25:40.370" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T16:17:58.637" Title="What is required to start sculpting clay (tools, experience...)?" Tags="|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="45" CreationDate="2016-08-25T20:42:25.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Water-based&quot; is not equivalent to &quot;water soluble after drying&quot;. I have no idea what this particular (Pebeo brand) gilding size is made out of, but if it's like most others on the market, it's very similar to latex/acrylic paint (or white glue, or a number of other materials): it's water-based in that it can be thinned with water, and it can be cleaned up with plain soap and water while it's still wet. However, once it dries, it's basically insoluble: the only way to remove it is by physical means, i.e. scraping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, unless a glue/paint explicitly says that it's water-resistant once dry, I wouldn't suggest using it in a wet area. It may not dissolve in water, but it may soften, or otherwise not react well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a bathroom ceiling is not where I'd personally recommend using imitation gold leaf: nevermind the glue, the leaf itself will tarnish pretty rapidly with that much moisture around. You'd need to use a sealer to prevent that, and I don't know of any that are meant to be used in damp areas on a plaster/drywall base. (Plus, how would you go about sealing the stars without getting sealer on the rest of the ceiling? Do you really want a shiny ceiling?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to do this, I'd suggest looking into a gilding size and sealer meant to be used outdoors. That'll get you the water-resistance you need in a bathroom, but you'll hit other issues, like possibly discoloring (or worse) the rest of the ceiling, and having to use a respirator to avoid breathing noxious fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to get around all those problems would be to get &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00JLNZULG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;star-shaped wooden&lt;/a&gt; cutouts/plaques, gild those (with an outdoor-rated size and sealer), and glue them to your ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T20:54:16.817" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T20:54:16.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-26T17:28:44.763" Score="6" ViewCount="5224" Body="&lt;p&gt;When crocheting, there are 2 grips for holding the hook: like a knife or like a pen. The choice is - of course - a matter of what you've been taught and what you prefer, but can anything in general be said about the (dis)advantages of both grips? &lt;br&gt;&#xA;For instance, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is any grip better for your finger joints and wrist, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does it help to crochet faster, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it easier when crocheting larger (heavier) projects, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does it allow you to switch yarns more easily or anything else that occasionally needs to be done during crocheting, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if there is another way to hold the hook, please don't hesitate to mention it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T15:52:30.323" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T01:10:14.153" Title="Crocheting: 'knife' grip vs 'pen' grip" Tags="|crocheting|crochet-hooks|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2118" CreationDate="2016-08-27T01:02:56.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the budget you can invest in a cutter/plotter.&#xA;I use a Craft Robo for my papercraft projects, even though it's a bit old now. (Silhouette Cameo is newer model and I imagine there are other similar products out there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They work similar to a printer in the sense that you install a driver and send a file, but imagine the print head is a tiny cutting head. It can cut but also perforate: you can also control how deep the cuts are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you send it a dotted line it will create perforations for you.&#xA;You can initially use a test page with different cutting depths and different distances between the dots to see what works with your paper thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="190" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T01:02:56.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2156" CreationDate="2016-08-27T10:26:45.657" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine you take the left side from graphic 1 and right side from the graphic 2, place them that the left and right side are connected horizontally, then you take the sides left from graphic 1 and 2 and connect those the same way and that results in 2 pairs of connected sides forming two new graphics representing something else than they did when connected with their previous side. Is there a term for these kind of graphics?&#xA;It doesn't strictly have to be left and right sides, it can be top and bottom. The two sides also don't have to be the same size or shape, as long as the connecting side &quot;fits&quot; with the other one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="855" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T16:13:42.060" Title="is there a term for graphics which can replace each other's sections or parts and result in two new graphics?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2133" CreationDate="2016-08-27T19:34:39.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are describing is known as a &quot;tessellating pattern&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most famous practitioner of this art, in my opinion, was the Dutch artist Maurits Cornelis Escher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I can post an image here of Escher's work as it's copyright protected by the Escher foundation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of Escher's work showing the tessellating pattern in action can be seen in the piece titled &lt;em&gt;Regular Division of the Plane III, 1957&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regular_Division_of_the_Plane#/media/File:Escher,_Regular_Division_of_the_Plane_III.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; Escher's work showing the tessellating pattern.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLWmI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLWmI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot; Escher&amp;#39;s work showing the tessellating pattern &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To learn more about M.C. Escher then check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcescher.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M.C. Escher Foundation and The M.C. Escher Company.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T00:51:27.153" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T00:51:27.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T01:31:56.830" Score="8" ViewCount="12125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be tying some elastic cord (the kind that's about 2 mm thick) into circles about 6 inches in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The circles will be subject to a fair amount of stretching, but nothing excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a certain knot and/or glue combination I can use to accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My limitations are that I need to be able to fit up to 3 of these knots &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/1923/whats-a-flexible-strong-string-or-yarn-i-can-use-in-this-toy&quot;&gt;inside of a straw&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T21:02:23.717" Title="How to knot an elastic cord into a circle?" Tags="|adhesives|material-selection|knots|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2145" CreationDate="2016-08-29T01:43:39.300" Score="11" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that this will happen regardless with this kind of relative motion. Especially with smaller models where your hands are constantly trying to keep proper tension of the yarn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still though, this is something that all crocheters must deal with. I suppose the easiest thing to do is take breaks but I wonder if there is more to it than that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, as a crocheter, can I do to help mitigate pain and cramping that I get while working? Perhaps this would apply to knitting as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T01:05:25.653" Title="What can I do to reduce pain while crocheting?" Tags="|crocheting|safety|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2135" CreationDate="2016-08-29T02:18:25.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Fisherman's knot&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I would use if you are looking for a pure knot solution. One of the easiest ones to use as well since it is just two overhands knots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eRiKx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eRiKx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fisherman&amp;#39;s knot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fisherman%27s_knot.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically lay the ends of the elastic along side each other. Then take one end and tie an overhand knot around the other end. Then do the same with the other loose end. (Describing how to tie knots is a hard venture). Once both knots are tied you can pull the elastic away from the knots and that will pull them tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Consider fusing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This really depends on the material the cord is made out of but this works for certain ropes. Use something simple like a lighter (some people use heat guns) to melt the elastic ends together. Assuming that material allows this, fusing &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you put the cord in a knot will help create a stronger bond. you do have to be careful not to overheat the cord as that can damage it or if nothing else reduce its longevity. Might not be worth it for the project you describe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T02:18:25.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1801" CreationDate="2016-08-29T17:54:59.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will never &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; &quot;get dry&quot;. If you paint with raw linseed oil --like many old paintings are painted with-- it might take around 100 years before it is really dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Touch-dry, however --so you can paint another layer--  could take from 1 day to 2 weeks, depends on the oil medium and paint you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light colors dry slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test it with your brush: if no paint comes off, you can paint over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T00:51:50.477" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T00:51:50.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T18:10:09.527" Score="6" ViewCount="5934" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when I paint there is enough linseed oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the kitchen there is always some sunflower oil,&#xA;for cooking of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to work well but I wonder about a few things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is the drying process affected? Will it take longer or shorter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it have any affect on the paint itself?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it affect the color of the paint over time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could you mix it with turpentine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used sunflower oil, like what is used for cooking food, in oil paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T18:34:40.597" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T05:42:56.340" Title="Can I use sunflower oil in oil paint?" Tags="|oil-paint|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-29T19:28:07.363" Score="6" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I keep my paint-brushes fresh and clean, soft and so on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people clean them with soap while others let them lay in oil over night.&#xA;You can save a lot of money by taking good care of you brushes. What should I be doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T19:44:19.543" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T11:42:06.883" Title="How do I maintain my oil paint brushes?" Tags="|oil-paint|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2136" CreationDate="2016-08-29T20:17:51.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with any repetitive strain injury (RSI), rest, moist-heat-then-ice, massage, compression, NSAIDs and, of course, physical therapy can all help. For me, I've generally found that plenty of aerobic exercise to increase circulation through tight sore muscles is what will fix/relieve RSI issues the most quickly for me. YMMV. The main problem is that this is a long-term solution that can take months or years, not days, and healing will go a helluva lot faster if you simply stop the activity that's causing the pain or at least limit how much time you spend on it. But ignoring the pain and working through is liable to increase the injury and severity and frequency of pain. Geek hyperfocus and right-brain loss of time sense are not your friends, here. Slowing down might help, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understand, also, that what hurts may not be pinpointing where the mechanical problem of muscle strain actually lies. You may have pain in your fingers, wrist, forearm, or elbow, but the actual mechanical problem could be in the shoulder, neck, or back. Pay attention to posture, and which muscles are actually in use, and concentrate on finding positions to relax them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, if this begins to bother you outside of the activity, or if you discern nerve damage, medical advice is the best way to go. Keyboard and trackball/pad RSI to the point of nerve damage meant I had to give up knitting altogether, since I still needed to be able to keyboard full time to earn a living. Healing was also, thus, incredibly slow, even wearing splits 24-7 for 9 months. Consider whether or not you can trade in some keyboard time for crochet time, or stay off keyboards outside of business hours. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T17:49:03.337" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T17:49:03.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2146" CreationDate="2016-08-30T12:52:26.150" Score="12" ViewCount="6705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious what people would consider a basic / standard pencil type to have in their toolbox for pencil sketching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a ton of variants I see with different hardness/softness etc and I don't plan to do anything advanced just want to sketch things out but I feel like while a regular pencil is just fine maybe there is a common type that may be more appropriate to learn with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your answer is 'use a regular pencil until you feel it's holding you back' that's fine too, just looking for a little guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to understand how to see things differently (mainly perspective) as coming from a technical and CAD background everything I try to sketch comes out reflecting that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;If it makes a difference I am used to drawing lines firmly on paper.  So based on my understanding a harder pencil may be more appropriate? Or maybe a softer one to teach myself to not try and stab the paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="866" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T07:08:31.887" LastActivityDate="2021-07-30T09:16:17.627" Title="Which kind of pencils should be used by a beginner for drawing?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2136" CreationDate="2016-08-30T18:00:42.863" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm a big knitter and crocheter and a musician with tendinitis for the past 20 years. Aside from the standard advice (NSAIDs, massage, etc) there are a few things that you can do to mitigate the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, make sure that the amount of pressure you're using is the bare minimum amount possible. It may actually take some time to retrain your hands, but it's worth taking the time to do it. You may want to slow down a little bit, focus on using as little effort as possible, and then speed up gradually using the same amount of pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, with knitting and crochet you can also mitigate repetitive strain by making your movements as small as possible. This of course has an added bonus of making your stitches a bit faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, you may want to experiment with different styles and materials of hooks/needles. I can barely use a standard boye aluminum hook, but I find that when the hook has a nice handle, it actually helps a lot. The lightness of the hook and the resistance of the material will also make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last point of advice that I have for you is that if you start to feel any pain at all, stop, stretch, and give yourself a few minutes before you go back to it. It might be kind of tedious at first, but if you avoid damage while retraining your muscles to move lighter, smaller, and with less pressure, you should be able to retrain yourself so that long term you can crochet without any pain at all. It took for me about 3 months to really fully go through the retraining, but it's made a HUGE difference in my ability to do all of the things that I actually want to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="867" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T18:00:42.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2016-08-30T20:18:26.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert but here is what I gathered from my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pencil have different hardness rated as follow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harder (very light strokes) 7H -&gt; ... -&gt; 2H -&gt; HB -&gt; 2B -&gt; ... -&gt; 7B Softer (dark strokes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a 2B or HB to &quot;draw&quot; (contour, shape, ...) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then add a 4B or 6B for your first shadings (I would go with 6B to widen the range of shade you can achieve). Do the lighter tones with your &quot;first&quot; pencil and the darker with this new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want &quot;real black&quot; instead of the grey provided by graphite pencil you can add a charcoal pencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;completed with 3B, 4B, 5B etc. depending where you think there is a value (grey level) you can't achieve with what you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T20:18:26.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2142" CreationDate="2016-08-30T21:24:12.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm done painting, this is how I clean up. I've kept some brushes for years like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak the brush in white spirit for a minute or so&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gently massage the bristles to loosen the paint and make sure as much as possible is dissolved in the spirits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a good dollop of liquid soap onto the bristles, and gently scrub into a lather with a bit of warm water (not hot), separating the bristles to get as much paint out as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse out with warm water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the flow of water is always from handle to tip, make sure you're never pushing paint up towards the handle as it can collect there where it's almost impossible to get out, and it will harden and splay the bristles over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T21:24:12.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2016-08-31T01:04:07.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a Lefty but I crochet Right handed and hold the hook between my thumb and first two fingers, like a knife I suppose.  I've tried holding it like a pen but it feels weird and awkward. I'd say hold the hook however it feels most comfortable to you.  Try a couple of different ways, do sample pieces and see what works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="869" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T01:04:07.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1862" CreationDate="2016-08-31T01:29:05.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a sewing store.  Ask for lightweight fusible interfacing.  This is a lightweight nonwoven textile generally used to,provide body between two layers of fabric (like in a shirt collar).  Iron it onto a leaf and see what happens. Buy enough to experiment and make some mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fused silk onto the back of patterned origami paper with good results, but the leaf will be tricky as it dries out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="869" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T01:29:05.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2016-08-31T10:27:24.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A must have in my toolbox is 2B, as you may tend for more &quot;tech&quot; way of drawing i would add an HB to that. In addition to that i'm carrying a one softer pencil 4B-5B. To summerize - my toolbox = HB, 2B, 4B/5B. To feel shadows i usually use 8B allthough i never carry them with me because the graphite inside easly &quot;break&quot; and they are very annoying to use afterwards ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T10:27:24.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2016-08-31T10:34:28.337" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adhesive pick-up squares are great tool for maintaining a perfect effect. I used them a lot during my art school years. They cost around a $1-2 USD, so they're very cheap. You can find them in most art supply stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T23:57:15.353" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T23:57:15.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T16:55:40.730" Score="6" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very interested in Fine Art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken a course on pencil sketching for about 3 months. So now I can draw faces of people from photos with the help of grid method. I am able to draw the faces or various shapes quite well with 100 percent likeness so that they look just like they are copied from the photos themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I can't draw &lt;em&gt;live&lt;/em&gt; sketches or portraits from looking at the people's faces. I tried to draw but I couldn't get the likeness that I would get from my static drawings. So I want to learn live sketching just like a street artist who can draw in person. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any special rules or techniques to learn to draw live portraits? Or is it something innate quality of a person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="871" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T05:32:52.840" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T08:41:56.053" Title="I am having trouble transitioning from sketching photos to live models" Tags="|sketching|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2170" CreationDate="2016-08-31T17:39:54.673" Score="5" ViewCount="6705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering starting to make beads with polymer clay; and would like to be able to bake it with out a new oven. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyhow, what (if any) health risks would there be from baking polymer clay in the same oven that I bake food in? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T15:11:56.020" Title="How toxic is baking polymer clay?" Tags="|safety|polymer-clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-31T17:42:35.087" Score="6" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a powdery, dry medium similar to a chalk pencil. However I notice that &lt;strong&gt;not all chalk pencils are pure white and often exhibit a yellowy tinge.&lt;/strong&gt; I have seen &quot;white charcoal&quot; products advertised, but I believe these are a patented synthetic material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I would like to add &lt;strong&gt;pure white highlights&lt;/strong&gt; to studio marker illustrations, &amp;amp; charcoal illustrations on toned paper. I would like a non waxy/oily pencil that can be smudged/blended like charcoal. The last pencil I tried was a Stabilo Carbothello white chalk pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any pencils similar to chalk that are pure white? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T17:04:45.463" Title="Looking for a (non-yellowy) white chalk pencil for marker illustration highlights" Tags="|tool-selection|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2133" CreationDate="2016-08-31T18:29:51.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The surrealist technique of combining sections of different images in order to create a unique composition is referred to as &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Exquisite Corpse&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Cadavre Exquis&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; (Ambrose &amp;amp; Harris, 2011). By aligning the sections creatively or along a similar outline, one can achieve very unexpected results, as in the following example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuPzg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuPzg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these cup designs by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.core77.com/posts/23856/Surrealist-Ceramics-Exquisite-Cups-by-Chloe-Lee-Carson&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chloe Lee Carson&lt;/a&gt;, sections of different illustrations have been combined to create unique characters.&#xA;Note that despite the name of this technique, Cadavre Exquis is not limited to animal or human imagery. In fact, it began as a word game where sentences were constructed in a similar unxexpected fashion. According to the Tate &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/breton-eluard-hugo-exquisite-corpse-t12005/text-summary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;, the technique's name is derived from one of the first games that resulted in: &lt;em&gt;‘Le cadavre exquis boira le vin nouveau’ (‘The exquisite corpse will drink the young wine’).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Reference:&#xA;Harris, P. &amp;amp; Ambrose G. (2011), Basics Design 02 - Layout, AVA Publishing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastEditorUserId="72" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T16:13:42.060" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T16:13:42.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2153" CreationDate="2016-08-31T22:48:06.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are on the right path. You just need to take the next step and draw with a larger grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When people first start to draw the grid method helps the artist develop their ability to see what is in front of them. The mind has a habit of playing tricks on how we perceive an image, the brain places greater emphasis on what it &quot;thinks&quot; is important and less emphasis of on those things it doesn't care about. That's the reason why when people draw the human face they enlarge some parts, like the eyes, and make other parts smaller, like the distance from the brown to the top of the head. The brain likes to look at eyes. It doesn't care about the forehead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grid method trains the brain to more accurately measure distances between features. With the grid method you learn what the actual size of the features are with respect to all the other features. No guessing. The distance from the brow to the top of the head is not assumed or guessed at. To get the true distance of this feature all you need to do is count the grid spacing and you then know &quot;exactly&quot; what the distance is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your case, like I said at the beginning, you are on the right path and all you need to do is take the next step by making your grid smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time you do a study try making your grid twice as big, meaning less squares than there were before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slowly over time the grid will become bigger and bigger until at the end there is only one square and it frames your whole image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do is instead of drawing from photos is to drawn using real people. And you can still use the grid method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might be assuming, wrongly, but from your description it sounds like you are taking photos and outlining a grid on the photo. Instead of putting the grid directly on a photo put that same grid onto a transparency or a sheet of plexiglass. Put the grid on anything that you can see through. Once the grid is drawn on the transparency hold that transparency up in front of you and look at the living model. Use the grid method to teach your brain the measure of the real features of a real person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And again, slowly over time, make the grid bigger and bigger until you no longer need the grid to draw from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the grid is gone you will then have taught your brain how to see what real people really look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of using the grid method to help draw a portraiture. Grid size increased over time as artist's ability to perceive features improves.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozzzC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozzzC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of using the grid method to help draw a portraiture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T23:42:29.053" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T23:42:29.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T04:45:52.777" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking forward to buying a drill for my crafts when I found this under the drill's photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6fGN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6fGN.png&quot; alt=&quot;specifications&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what do the metrics under the brick, wood and steel refer to? At first, I thought it was the maximum depth I can drill in these materials, but then I thought that this depended on the drill size and that it couldn't differ among different materials, so what are those numbers really for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="875" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T12:03:26.880" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T18:32:19.080" Title="What do those material measurement metrics for a drill represent?" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2159" CreationDate="2016-09-01T08:13:26.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thats the maximum bit &lt;em&gt;diameter&lt;/em&gt;.  There are a couple of limits that are relevant: the outside of a large drill bit moves fast, so you may have to slow the drill down, but then it becomes less powerful and could stall. An optimised drill bit is assumed (e.g. using an HSS bit in wood is fine for many tasks, but at the large end it won't work). In practice you can often go a little bigger than they say with &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Spade_bits.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flat wood bits&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYXAi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYXAi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flat wood bits (via wikimedia commons)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or hole saws if you're gentle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many applications it's possible to have a drill with a shank that's smaller than the cutting end, hence the chuck size is less of a limitation. For example &lt;em&gt;step drills&lt;/em&gt; are used for drilling sheet material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnnjK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnnjK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Step drill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This one has a shank of about 10mm and a maximum hole size of 26mm, mainly for metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Reduced shank drills&lt;/em&gt; (or blacksmith drills) are used for deeper holes, again mainly in metals. These are a 16mm and a 25mm, with 13mm shanks:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OQ11S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OQ11S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blacksmith drills&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T18:32:19.080" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T18:32:19.080" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2159" CreationDate="2016-09-01T11:24:56.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The numbers shown represent the maximum recommended drill bit diameter for the material shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Max diameter &quot;masonry&quot; drill bit is 32 millimetre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Max diameter &quot;wood&quot; drill bit is 42 millimetre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Max diameter &quot;steel&quot; drill bit is 13 millimetre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T12:35:04.770" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T12:35:04.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T17:20:41.697" Score="5" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small wood pencil holder that I want to paint on the bottom with blue and then stain and varnish the top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how do I go about the varnish?  Can I varnish over the paint or do I use blue tape to block off the painted portion and varnish after I've painted then remove the blue tape (which will ruin the varnish right?)?  Or do I just varnish very carefully?  Or do I paint after I varnish and possible paint over the bottom of the varnish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="877" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:05:53.393" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T02:05:53.393" Title="How to add paint to the bottom and stain/varnish to the top of a wood project?" Tags="|paint|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-01T22:11:20.613" Score="6" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to screen print a positive silhouette of some physical objects such as leaves and sticks.  I plan to lay the items on the screen and spray on the block out or filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only been able to find brush-on and pen-applicator screen filler.  Is there such a thing as spray filler?  Or would something else work, like maybe a heavy application of ordinary spray paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="878" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T21:19:50.000" Title="Aerosol block out/filler for screen printing?" Tags="|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2153" CreationDate="2016-09-01T22:39:54.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big difference is that when you draw from a photo the image is already flattened onto a 2 dimensional plane, however when drawing from life you have to deal with translating 3D to 2D yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way we see in 3 dimensions is rather more complex than you might imagine and the way we understand and visualise an object is very different from a photograph. When you first start life drawing there is a conflict between what you 'know' to be there and how to represent that on a flat surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially true for portraits as most humans are innately good at automatically recognising faces but in the context of drawing this can get in the way of seeing the detail and structure of what is actually there because the recognition is an unconscious process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to approach this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drawing figures it can help a lot to have some understanding of anatomy, this will help you break down the complexities of the human form into their underlying structures of bone and muscle a particular pose can be easier to interpret and helps to start to see faces as a form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly practicing drawing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thedrawingsource.com/proportions-of-the-face.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;'standard' proportioned faces&lt;/a&gt; can give you a reference point to see how a specific face differs from an idealised one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also help to practice drawing complex structures which are less familiar or even totally unrecognizable. This means that you no longer have your expectations of what is there to fall back on and you are forced to look very carefully at the subject. Things like piles of cloth, crumpled paper, driftwood, piles of stones are all common exercises. The point is that because there is no regular structure to them to fall back on you are forced to get all of your information by looking at the subject. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also drawing portraits with extreme lighting can help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In life drawing practice the real skill is not so much the actual technicalities of drawing as the ability to look properly at a scene and consciously identify its component parts and how they relate to each other. This is a very different skill from copying an existing image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T01:45:16.900" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T01:45:16.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-02T09:30:25.237" Score="15" ViewCount="4262" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am drawing, I have a lot of good ideas to use, but I always have trouble envisioning the drawing I want to make! I end up starting to draw and then erasing it countless times before I get close to making the picture in a satisfactory way, and even then there are times when I see the finished product and think it's not the way I wanted it to look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I completely plan out a drawing before I start so I know what I'm doing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always wish I had an image of my future drawing in my head instead of only a general idea and could just transfer it to the paper without trying &lt;em&gt;so many&lt;/em&gt; times. Why is this so hard for me to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T07:02:31.657" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T09:16:01.530" Title="How to plan a drawing?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2141" CreationDate="2016-09-02T10:49:33.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooking oil certainly isn't a direct substitute for linseed oil. Oils used for paint and treating wood are so called 'drying oils' this means that they naturally polymerise when exposed to air, forming a dry flexible material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All vegetable oils will do this to some extent but for something like sunflower oil it will take a very long time and you will end up with a gummy sticky mess long before it actually dries. It is also likely that during this time it will end up being colonised by bacteria, turning it rancid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also many drying oils are further treated by steaming (ie boiled linseed oil) and/or adding drying agents to speed up the drying process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T10:49:33.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2126" CreationDate="2016-09-02T12:49:42.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few different options for sculpting materials that fall withing the broad definition of 'clay' &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water based clays&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are essentially the same stuff used for pottery and are widely used for 'fine art' type sculpture. The big advantage of water based clay is that its plasticity and hardness can be controlled according to how wet it is so you can use wet clay  to quickly rough out a form and then allow it to dry a bit to firm up to allow you to refine surface detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their disadvantage is that they tend not to be very string when wet and usually need some sort of internal support armature to support their own weight. You can get clays filled with paper or nylon fibres which are a bit stronger when dry but, in my experience aren't that nice to work with as the fibres can interfere with the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil based Clays&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also known as 'Plasticine' common professional brands are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chavant.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chavant&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monstermakers.com/product/monster-clay-premium-grade-html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Monster Clay&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are available in a range of hardness and, unlike some cheaper brands can be used with RVT silicone to make moulds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tend to be a bit firmer than water based clay and as such lend themselves well to small, finely detailed models and is also a bit cleaner to work with. It has reasonable strength and tends to be less reliant on internal armatures. The downside of this is that it can be more time consuming to build up the bulk of the model and tends not to be so good for sweeping organic surfaces, although then can be softened a bit with heat and the professional brands can be melted and cast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These give very good detail and can be smoothed very effectively. They also don't dry out and as such can be worked into and reused more or less indefinitely (although they will gradually decline in quality over time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modelling Putty&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This includes epoxy putties like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milliput.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;milliput&lt;/a&gt; these are mixed from 2 parts to a firm putty and will dry hard after a few hours. This has the advantage that they are hard and string enough to be used as a finished piece and a such are frequently used for converting and modifying existing miniatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the downside of this is that you only have a few hours to sculpt it before it sets, although you can still drill, sand and carve it once it has set which can be useful in some situations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wax&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of sculpting waxes available. Their big advantage is that their harness can be controlled easily by both heating and blending different wax grades. They can be both sculpted and carved depending on relative hardness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waxes especially harder ones tend to be good for getting very crisp detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few broad categories of sculpting tools &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whiterosetools.com/Am-Tech-R0330?gclid=CIbRqYnZ8M4CFUu6GwodfBQPxg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wax carving/dental  tools&lt;/a&gt; : these tend to be stainless steel and are good for fine detail. I would say that a set of these is a good starting point. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bathpotters.co.uk/wooden-double-ended-ball-tool-set-of-3-wbts/p5974&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ball stylus tools&lt;/a&gt; : designed for creating consistent fillets but can also be useful for sculpting fine detail and undercuts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bathpotters.co.uk/hardwood-modelling-tools/c113&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hardwood clay tools&lt;/a&gt; :  these tend to be geared more towards larger pieces in relatively soft media. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://miniatures.about.com/od/toolsforminiatures/gr/clayshapers.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silicone tipped shapers&lt;/a&gt; : best suited to final smoothing and polishing, specifically in conjunction with solvents and/or lubricants. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;etc etc &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tool selection is really a case of what works for you but all of the above are likely to be potentially useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casting&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting is a whole separate subject in itself....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone rubber is probably the most versatile mould material and is reasonably easy to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small scale casting you are really looking at catalysed or 2 part resins which include Polyester, Epoxy and Acrylic. In general PU resins are a good bet as they cast well, aren't too expensive, have good mechanical properties and are reasonably easy to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figurine casting also tends to use resin with powder fillers added. Different fillers give different properties to the casting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVC and ABS need to be extruded or injection moulded and aren't really practical for small scale casting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General Advice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest starting out with a relatively soft medium such as water based clay or the softest grades of oil clay. These are easy to work with and will let you 'sketch' figures reasonably quickly to get a feel for working in 3 dimensions. As you progress you may want to try harder grades to allow you to get a smoother finish and crisper detail. As your style evolves you will start to learn exactly what properties you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T16:17:58.637" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T16:17:58.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2016-09-02T18:57:21.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A key issue here is that the way that we visualize things in our minds is very different from a two dimensional image and bridging the gap between the two is a difficult  task and a big part of why the job of an artist or illustrator is different from a pure draughtsman. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process is not just about simply transferring your ideas onto paper, rather the drawing process is  a way of testing and refining your ideas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to study this is to look at the sketches of historic and contemporary artists &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eg: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eyeris.eu/sketchbooks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sketchbooks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.italian-renaissance-art.com/Michelangelo-Drawings.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Michelangelo Drawings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T20:01:50.730" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T20:01:50.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2016-09-02T19:37:41.893" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common practice is to first create a &lt;a href=&quot;http://drawsketch.about.com/library/bl-thumbnail-sketching.htm&quot;&gt;thumbnail&lt;/a&gt;. You can do this when drawing from real life or from imagination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to get a rough, small, quick concept of what you're going to be working on down on paper. This lets you get the idea out and reference it later as you're working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When drawing from imagination, you can utilize multiple thumbnails, then decide on which pose/style you'd like to move forward with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example can be found on Niklas Jannsan's website: &lt;a href=&quot;https://androidarts.com/doctorwho/doctorwho.htm&quot;&gt;Android Arts Doctor Who project&lt;/a&gt;. The first image has some thumbnails of a moth-like creature, and then the final image incorporates the concepts laid-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When drawing from life or an image reference, a thumbnail is helpful to evaluate proportions. Before starting to draw on the entire page, you can draw a small rectangle in the corner or on another page. If you divide that rectangle up (into 1/4ths or 1/8ths), then draw your thumbnail, you made yourself a handy map and proportion guide. Just be careful that in your thumbnail you didn't exaggerate some proportions too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your thumbnail, you can build up your rough sketches, laying down shapes and forms and building your line-art, but my advice would to be start with the thumbnail and then go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get your idea out, make variations, work from there. Be willing to make changes, and don't enforce perfectionism in your first drafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, a common problem I've seen, and that I face, is knowing that something is &quot;wrong&quot; with a picture, and then erasing it to fix it. However, there's usually not a clear idea of what is &lt;em&gt;making&lt;/em&gt; it wrong, or how precisely to fix it. Before you erase to start making changes, you should analyze the part that's wrong to really understand what the problem is. Proportions? Angle? Size? Shape? If you don't know what's broke, you can't fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T19:37:41.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2154" CreationDate="2016-09-02T22:46:08.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert on this subject, by any means, but I can share the information that is available so that you can at least make a more informed decision yourself. Polymer clay, just like most other materials and chemicals, comes with an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet). This sheet lists all the potential hazards and risks when using the material. All the different types of polymer clay will have their own; however, they are basically very similar. The principal risk associated with polymer clay is that it can release hazardous fumes if it is overheated (hydrogen chloride vapor is one of the vapors). These vapors are irritants and should be avoided. Mainly, you need to make sure you do not overbake or burn the clays. The clay itself is considered non-toxic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see for yourself an example of the information provided in the MSDS for Kato polymer clay  at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vanaken.com/msds/MSDS%20Kato%20Polyclay.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Kato Polymer Clay MSDS&quot;&gt;Kato Polymer Clay MSDS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an excellent article at The Artful Crafter, about the safety of polymer clays that addresses the use of kitchen ovens for curing polymer clay and can be accessed at &lt;a href=&quot;http://theartfulcrafter.com/blog/tips-four.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Polymer Clay Safety Tips&quot;&gt;The Artful Crafter - Polymer Clay Safety Tips&lt;/a&gt;. This article states that it is safe to use your kitchen oven to bake polymer clay and discusses some precautions if you are a heavy user of polymer clay. There are other similar articles on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My clay oven is quite small so I have used my own kitchen oven on several occasions with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="574" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T22:46:08.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2172" CreationDate="2016-09-03T05:32:33.533" Score="5" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the most effective way to blend Artist's Loft colored pencils? I have tried using my fingers and also bathroom tissue, but my colors never look very smooth or well-blended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-05T13:48:01.670" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T16:27:27.347" Title="How do I effectively blend with Artist's Loft colored pencils?" Tags="|colored-pencils|blending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2171" CreationDate="2016-09-03T13:25:27.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common technique for pencil blending is to use either a colorless blender pencil (they make one for this brand) or to use solvents to blend, normally something like Mona Lisa odorless mineral spirits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For blending pencils, I'm pretty sure the Artist's Loft line is wax based and so the blenders for Prismacolor should also work. The thing to remember with this technique is that you won't be able to layer more color after, so do it last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try the solvent option, use it in &lt;em&gt;very small&lt;/em&gt; amounts on a cheap, small, paint brush as you really do not need a lot. Make sure you have a few layers of pencil on first, that's how you'll get the best look. You can then layer more, when it's dry, and do more blending. It will dry very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper also matters. Higher quality paper will allow for more pigment to be laid down and make blending easier. Some people even use 140lb &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hot press&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; watercolor paper for this (check labeling to be sure), especially if they use solvent blending. You can only do so much with lower-end paper before you destroy the tooth of it or even rip through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at the end of the day, these are low-end, student-grade, pencils and you're simply not going to get the same smooth blending that a professional grade pencil is going to get you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick edit note:&lt;/strong&gt; You don't need to buy high-end watercolor paper if you want to try that route. Student grade should be fine, the main difference with student to professional is the sizing and cotton content which, in this use case, isn't as important. Just make sure it is acid free (should say so on packaging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="34" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T15:55:46.380" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T15:55:46.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2016-09-03T18:18:00.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have this problem too. And I was either stuck with drawing one peculiar detail over and over or I just lost proportion. What I found out is you have to create some space on the paper. Doesn't have to be done with very light strokes, what's important is that your strokes are confident. Don't think about it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm usually going with curved lines and bounded shapes, although most of the people I know used cubes and tetrahedrons. This is important - not only to create space in your drawing but as well for you to get sense of proportion. And as you draw, always remember to look at the drawing as &quot;a whole&quot; from time to time. Put it into another perspective or stand up and look at it from afar - and see if it holds, how the composition is - where you might want to weight it out better. You might in addition already mark where the light comes from. Adding some darker areas or shadows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's very hard to do at the beginning - mostly to achieve this certain &quot;confidence&quot; in your stroke/line. But every drawing brings you closer to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for an exercise - consider this. Draw a bundle of curved lines and some strokes - care for their variability but keep the value of the drawing more or less on the same range. Then - look at it and try to draw something on this matrix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2017-04-17T18:30:05.380" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T18:30:05.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2016-09-03T22:17:32.913" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with user24 and you should practice creating thumbnails for your future works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I create thumbnails, I also think in layers of objects. I draw using a light box, so I draw separated pieces to stack later using an image editor, like Gimp or PS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="887" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-30T09:16:01.530" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T09:16:01.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-05T06:00:45.733" Score="5" ViewCount="1233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I frequently find myself sketching scenes that have dark lighting, but I'm never quite sure how to go about shading the subjects of the drawing when it's supposed to look dark, especially things like hair and clothing, things that are supposed to be light colored (say, snow or white sheets) and faces- it always looks quite messy.&lt;br&gt; For example, if I'm drawing two people in an unlit hallway, I will end up just shading along their outlines and putting random shadows where I think they &quot;look right,&quot; such as along the side of the face, on the front of the shirt and wherever on the pants.&lt;br&gt; How can I realistically shade sketches of dark scenes?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T02:45:14.697" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T12:35:28.050" Title="Shading dark scenes" Tags="|drawing|pencil-shading|sketching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2016-09-05T12:29:13.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are numerous type of pencils , for the  lighter shadingn 2B, for little darker, 4B, at last 6B  when you want put black effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="894" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T12:29:13.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-06T01:34:30.060" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a large poster to display my original Pokemon cards, but because of the size of the cards and the way I wanted them to be laid out, store bought frames are out of the question.  The poster is not 100% done so I am not sure what the final measurements will be once I trim down the poster board, but it probably will be 49 inches by 29 inches. All of the cards are in sleeves, but I still want something over all of it to keep the cards flat against the poster.  What kind of plastic or vinyl or glass (though I don't know how I'd cut it) would be cost effective (at most $25), easy enough to cut to size, and not a pain to apply (like with phone screen protectors, it is hard to get the bubbles out).  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="897" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-09-06T16:00:10.277" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T18:07:18.217" Title="Plastic/Glass for a very large, custom frame" Tags="|glass|plastic|framing|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2177" CreationDate="2016-09-06T02:14:52.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A clear Mylar sheet could work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear, moisture resistant, acid free and archival.&#xA;And available in the size and price range you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example available on Amazon &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0027A3HKG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027A3HKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1473127673&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;amp;keywords=clear+mylar+roll&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=31N50Emps-L&amp;amp;ref=plSrch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T02:14:52.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2182" CreationDate="2016-09-06T20:48:32.827" Score="7" ViewCount="6214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting into book binding, and want to try binding something with faux leather. However, I want to bump up the quality of the binding, and don't want to use cardboard as a backbone in holding the faux together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering about a material that I could use in its place. I was thinking possibly Solid Bleach Board, or chipboard. I do like the look of chipboard, though i'm worried it may be &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; rigid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any types of cardboard that are simply loosely compressed, and uncorrugated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="904" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T14:59:34.927" LastActivityDate="2022-10-19T08:25:20.730" Title="What material can I use for hardcover book panels when binding?" Tags="|material-selection|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2181" CreationDate="2016-09-07T10:46:53.230" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strongly consider what is usually used for covers in these types of books. Hardboard or millboard. They are both similar materials that I would suggest for this. Unfortunately their names are sometimes used interchangeably so I would like to clarify a little what they are. Then you should be able to make a informed choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Millboard&lt;/strong&gt; is what you would find if you were to take a simple binder or traditional hardcover book apart. It is also heavier than millboard so keep that in mind. Side Note: Doing just that is a great way to get perfectly sized materials!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hardboard&lt;/strong&gt; is, like its name suggests, a very hard rigid and dense board. It is similar to both MDF and particle board. These come in thin sheets that would be perfect for binding. I talk about hardboard a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; more over at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1528/how-can-i-identify-some-of-the-common-engineered-boards-panels/1529#1529&quot;&gt;Woodworking.SE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would lean towards millboard as it is more forgiving to bending than hardboard. Hardboard will hardly move at all. Both are perfectly adequate for binding leather. I have made 5 books that were leather bound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, I want to bump up the quality of the binding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to do something else to bump up your game I would suggest using actual leather for you book covers. It is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; easy to come by if you are no picky about colours. Local secondhand stores are usually where I source my leathers. Jackets might be tempting for their size but they are usually too expensive. Skirts are the best best at being both cheap and containing large enough swatches to cover your book panels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:02.167" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T19:14:57.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-06T21:33:46.257" Score="5" ViewCount="3653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a prop that consists of a box with casters on the bottom. The bottom of the box is 1/4&quot; plywood. The casters are attached with machine screws; the nut and top of the screw are hidden by fabric sewn to the inside of the box. The fabric does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have any way for me to remove it for easy access to the plywood board on the bottom of the box; it's sewn in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the casters got tired of the abuse I put it to, and broke off. (The plate that attaches to the box is still fine, but I'm going to have to remove it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   |X|     nut&#xA;}}}}X{{{{  wood&#xA;   _X____  caster plate&#xA;   XXX     head of screw&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I attach new casters to the bottom of this box without ripping out the fabric on the inside? I have some Molly bolts, but they're not good for attaching to 1/4&quot; thick boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the box looks like this. You can just see one of the casters peeking out from under the missing legs on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uGWt2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uGWt2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a replace these casters without having access to the inside of the box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Usage:&lt;/strong&gt; I drag this thing around city streets and buildings. It's following me via fishing line, which means that for most bumps, curbs, sidewalk seams, and doorjambs, I'm just walking forward and assuming the box will keep up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="919" OwnerDisplayName="Paul Marshall" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T12:33:38.020" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T23:32:21.993" Title="How can I attach casters to a 1/4&quot; plywood board when I only have access to one side?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2183" CreationDate="2016-09-06T21:58:38.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A butterfly anchor (also called a toggle bolt) allows you to drill into the plywood and insert the toggle from the accessible side. Then tighten and the bolt will hold very tight. Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3wy5B.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="personal privacy advocate" LastEditorUserId="2" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T12:37:41.603" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T12:37:41.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2183" CreationDate="2016-09-07T16:05:15.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a thing called a T-Nut you can use, that has prongs and fits into a drilled hole.  You could back it up with some epoxy if you're paranoid, since it can pull out from the inserted side if not pounded in.  You're left with a threaded hole that you can put a rod-topped caster into, and it's a very strong connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PeSZW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PeSZW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to match the threads on the t-nut to the threads on the caster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Joe Makes Things" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T16:05:15.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2198" CreationDate="2016-09-07T19:39:01.120" Score="4" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joann.com/cling-vinyl-9inx12in-sheets/8258790.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some non-Cricut window cling&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://us.cricut.com/home/learn/machines/explore-family&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cricut Explore&lt;/a&gt;.  Cricut also sells &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.cricut.com/en_us/supplies/cutting-materials/window-cling/window-cling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their own window cling&lt;/a&gt;, but I have none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any harm in using non-Cricut brand materials for a project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="909" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T01:32:42.817" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T02:07:28.847" Title="Can I use other brands of window cling in a cricut?" Tags="|material-selection|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2162" CreationDate="2016-09-08T04:04:17.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have crossed this situation where clients want to stain their banisters and paint the spindles. In such cases, we stain first, then tape off the banister and paint the spindles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4Mr7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4Mr7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; You can stain (light colors / not solid) over paint and it will adhere, giving it an antique look. Example photo below of stain over paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/auB5p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/auB5p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="911" LastEditorUserId="911" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T04:11:30.710" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T04:11:30.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2121" CreationDate="2016-09-08T04:59:56.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PlasticWeld is a hand-mixable, fast-setting epoxy putty that forms a durable bond to most major plastic types. *After mixing, it forms a polymer compound that can be molded or used to build up and repair just about anything made from plastic. When cured, it can be sawed, drilled, carved, sanded and painted. PlasticWeld has a 20-25 minute work life; functional cure occurs in 2-3 hours. PlasticWeld cures to an off-white color, is rated at a tensile strength of 350 PSI. Does not adhere to polyethylene, polypropylene or some other plastics. Test for adhesion first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Great for&lt;/strong&gt;: &#xA;Rigid &amp;amp; Semi-flexible Plastic&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;ABS&lt;/strong&gt;, PVC &amp;amp; CPVC Pipes&#xA;Automotive Trim &amp;amp; Bumpers&#xA;Fiberglass Parts&#xA;Vinyl Siding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found at most automotive and hardware stores:&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/JBW0/8237/N2548.oap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Products link to O'Reilly's&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DETAILED DESCRIPTION&#xA;Repair and rebuild any rigid and semi-flexible plastic including ABS, PVC and CPVC&#xA;Bonds instantly&#xA;Superior strength&#xA;Will not shrink or pull away&#xA;Rebuild automotive trim, fiberglass parts and vinyl siding&#xA;ADDITIONAL DETAILS&#xA;Set Time (hr): 0.25 Hour&#xA;Cure Time (hr): 3 Hour&#xA;Volume (ml): 60ml&#xA;Volume (Oz): 2 Ounce&#xA;Cure Color: Off White&#xA;Material: Epoxy Resin&#xA;Color: Off White&#xA;Solvent Resistant: Yes&#xA;Temperature Range (Deg F): -67 To 300 Degree&#xA;Strength Rating (psi): 350 psi&#xA;Strength Rating At 400 Degrees (F): 350 psi&#xA;Water Resistant: Yes&#xA;Waterproof: Yes&#xA;Weatherproof: Yes&#xA;Type: Epoxy Stick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFX22.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFX22.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: Adding instructions here so it is not lost in comments.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;INSTRUCTIONS&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;CUT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Remove required amount of putty.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;MIX:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Thoroughly knead putty with fingers to a uniform color.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;APPLY:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Press putty firmly to the surface to be repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="911" LastEditorUserId="911" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T08:14:29.707" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T08:14:29.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2183" CreationDate="2016-09-09T08:26:31.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a caster wheel with a plate that you can screw to the bottom. First I would glue the plate to the bottom with strong construction kit and then add some screws for extra strength.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kI17K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kI17K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="533" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T08:26:31.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="95" CreationDate="2016-09-09T22:05:28.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making an assumption this is a treadle, but correct me.  I will try to make my answer &amp;quot;power neutral&amp;quot;. Any of the following would prompt me to service the unit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the belt slips, or is very much cracked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the bobbin winding wheel (usually a rubber ring) is very cracked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it has been sitting unused for more than 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If something pulls hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you start using it, find a manual for the machine. Look at the manual for the type of Oil, and other Lubricants. I'm personally able to keep mine happy &amp;amp; lubricated &amp;amp; adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 27-3  Singer, does have a bearing/slider, that must have been locked up for many many years.  It has 3/8&amp;quot; of the 1/2&amp;quot; round slider, just FLAT.  I keep it lubed, but I do have a replacement part, for when I'm in the mood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T01:29:03.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1819" CreationDate="2016-09-09T22:11:18.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would have to seal the stitches, just like you do on a tent, to keep it water proof.  I'm unfamiliar with neoprene, but a substance like it, may have a &quot;patch kit&quot; much like for a bike tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine, you'd do both, use the patch kit, plus seal the seam stitches in the inside of the patch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T00:10:09.167" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T00:10:09.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="313" CreationDate="2016-09-09T22:26:50.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little more nostalgic, I would prefer a machine that will &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; wear out, and can always be repaired. I'm a person that prefers treadle machines.  There are attachments to the machine that will do everything but a reverse.  Newer-Old Singers I believe can do the reverse. The most popular is the &quot;Feather Weight&quot; model 22, and the slightly larger model 99. These machines were sold by the &lt;strong&gt;millions&lt;/strong&gt; after WW2.  When they did come out with the multi stitch machines in the 60's, they did not want to leave the older machines behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a blind hem attachment.&#xA;There is a Button Hole Attachment.  There are different &quot;keys&quot; for different sized button holes.  My spouse had &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; seen a better buttonhole!  I have over 40 keys. &#xA;The zig zag attachment has a total of 20 different stitches. Plus you can adjust stitch length.  There are 2 sets of Red Cams, 1 set of White, 1 set of Yellow, 1 set of Blue.  Each set has 4 stitch cams in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are other attachments, but these are easily available, usually, on eBay.  I saw all 5 sets within a couple months, &amp;amp; haven't seen a blue or white in a couple years.  All in the wind.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T16:42:19.413" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T16:42:19.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1839" CreationDate="2016-09-09T22:30:17.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will take some trial &amp;amp; error, you need more top tension.  Period.&#xA;I don't usually mess with bobbin tension.  Only let a machine expert do that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each type of fabric may need different,  I usually take a couple 2&quot; strips of the fabric and sample run, until it is the way I want it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T00:11:50.630" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T00:11:50.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2016-09-09T22:36:14.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either very small bead of superglue applied with the item sitting on plastic wrap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or clear nail polish, applied over plastic wrap also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T22:36:14.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2186" CreationDate="2016-09-10T02:07:28.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cling material is vinyl and there is nothing special about the product on which Cricut puts its name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go too far afield in acquiring non-brand name supplies you might want to pay attention to the thickness and adjust the material setting for your machine accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T02:07:28.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2016-09-11T18:57:29.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember that white only looks white when there is 'white' light (light containing a wide range of wavelengths, I won't go into details here) that it can reflect. Even snow can look dark.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For realistic shading, you have to know what the subject you are drawing, looks like. So, find examples. Look at yourself in a mirror when it's dark outside, use a lamp to create shadows the way you want them in your drawing, pay attention to the shapes. Draw what you see. Of course, you can also use images from the internet, but then you can't see the changes in the shapes of the shadows when you tilt your head a bit more.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In short: draw what you see. With practise, you can 'see' those things in your imagination and you don't need a reference image for everything you want to draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="137" LastEditDate="2016-09-11T19:03:31.653" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T19:03:31.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2211" CreationDate="2016-09-12T03:54:08.897" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a very dusty area. The only feasible way for me to protect the crafts from dust is to wrap them in transparent polythene sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These crafts are placed on the table and some are hung on the walls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the way to keep them in the polythene sheets without making them look shabby?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intension here is that it shouldn't be obvious to the onlookers that the thing is in polythene just to avoid dust!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T17:28:50.057" Title="How to wrap the polythene around the crafts to protect them from dust without destroying their appeal?" Tags="|preservation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2204" CreationDate="2016-09-12T21:55:05.503" Score="6" ViewCount="16472" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I try to look up videos or tips for painting with acrylic, I always see them dipping the paintbrush into water to clean.  But every time I paint with acrylic paint, it seems there is a never ending supply of paint in my brush. Am I worrying too much about over-cleaning it? I don't try to add too much paint and I dip my brush in water to make it a little thinner so it isn't so gloopy. At least that is what I have been told to do when working with acrylic. I've been told paint thinner isn't necessary. Is there a technique I can use to clean my paintbrushes fast and effectively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I should add, I don't mean after I'm done using them. What I really am aiming at is needing to use the same size brush but with a different color. For example, my whole background is red. Well, then I have to clean out all the red because I need to use that same paintbrush for another color like yellow. I want my red brush to clean quickly so that I can get into the yellow and paint a different area. But cleaning the red out seems to take FOREVER! I dip in water, try to clean, squeeze out into a paper towel, and then use some construction paper to see how clean it is.  Basically, it looks like I'm painting with just a slightly thinner coat of paint. I'd like to clean my brush without having to clean it several different times. This leads also into the fact that I would like to paint more than clean my brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="930" LastEditorUserId="930" LastEditDate="2016-09-12T22:30:01.730" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T20:26:45.543" Title="How can I clean a paintbrush used in acrylic paint?" Tags="|paint-brushes|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2201" CreationDate="2016-09-12T22:05:51.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean them &lt;em&gt;fast&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; Acryclic paint dries quickly, so it's important to clean your paintbrushes as soon as possible after you've finished using them, so that the paint doesn't get the chance to start drying and hardening on the brush.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Massage the bristles thoroughly.&lt;/strong&gt; Don't just dip the paintbrush into water and wiggle it around, and don't leave it standing in a pot of water for ages either. Hold the brush under running water and massage it with your fingers - tease apart the individual bristles, push and rub the brush against your palm, and keep on doing this until the water runs clear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could back this answer up with extensive links to and quotes from &lt;a href=&quot;https://feltmagnet.com/painting/How-to-Clean-up-Acrylic-Paints&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt; advice &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/Clean-Stubborn-Acrylic-Paint-out-of-your-Paint-Brushes-/10000000001903492/g.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;and&lt;/a&gt; tutorials, but from your question it sounds like you've already found some of these, so I'll keep it short and sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T22:05:51.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2201" CreationDate="2016-09-13T06:32:06.943" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dipping your brush into water isn't going to do anything other than get your brush wet. To actually clean a brush, you need physical agitation, and I don't mean &quot;swish it around in the water jar a few times&quot; agitation, but &quot;mash it back and forth against your other hand while holding it under running water&quot; agitation. Use some paint brush soap (or plain old hand soap) and really work up a lather. Rinse and repeat until the lather bears no trace of the pigment you were using, then rinse thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this sounds like too much work when all you want to do is switch pigments, there are two things that will help. &lt;strong&gt;One&lt;/strong&gt;, don't put so much paint on your brush: put the paint on just the tip, not the whole thing. Of course, that's not a terribly effective way to paint a large area such as a background, which brings me to: &lt;strong&gt;Two&lt;/strong&gt;, get more brushes. Basically, use one brush per color, or at least per color family. If you're switching between, say, vermilion and cadmium red, you can get away with just swishing the brush around in the water jar and wiping on a paper towel. You still need to do the thorough washing as soon as possible after you're done, though, since acrylic paint can dry on a brush even if it's sitting in water (plus, sitting in water is itself a bad thing for a brush).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T06:32:06.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-15T02:22:37.637" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already explored &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/313/what-criteria-should-i-be-considering-when-looking-at-a-second-hand-sewing-machi&quot;&gt;getting a &lt;em&gt;modern&lt;/em&gt; sewing machine second hand in this question&lt;/a&gt;. Now I would like to consider a treadle as well. I quite enjoy traditional tools where muscle power is used over electricity. It give me a more accomplished feeling at times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see lots of treadle machines online at second hand sites. Likes most things the descriptions are vague and the prices vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do, test and or feel for when looking at these machines? I'm sure there should be a general list of things to be aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T00:11:23.810" Title="What should I look for when getting a treadle sewing machine second hand?" Tags="|tool-selection|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-16T03:23:17.007" Score="5" ViewCount="1995" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started out I thought that the tools for crocheting were pretty cheap to acquire. Anytime I needed another hook ( or lost one ) I would just head over to the dollar store and get one for usually under 2 bucks. I also never understood why so many had grips or otherwise larger handles. They &lt;em&gt;seemed&lt;/em&gt; uncomfortable and awkward. At the time I was doing just fine with the hooks I had...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uf9C7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uf9C7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I am crocheting more, I am starting to pay more attention to my hands and how they are feeling while I am working. If it's a possibility, I would like larger grips on my hooks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the minimal investment thus far with my hooks I was curious about what I could do to add a cushion, cushion-like attachment or make them larger so that they would, in theory, be more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had considered something like a pencil grip but those were designed for pencils obviously. I had also considered Sugru (since it has come up a few times at Crafts.SE) but was shying against it because that would be a permanent addition to the hooks (So I could not put them back easily in my wicked case!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use on my hooks instead, that is preferably removable? My thinner hooks are steel but I have a couple size 6 plastics if it matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T13:02:09.650" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T13:02:09.650" Title="What can I do to make my simple hooks more comfortable?" Tags="|crochet-hooks|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-16T11:38:51.680" Score="7" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked a similar question to this recently (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2175/shading-dark-scenes&quot;&gt;Shading dark scenes&lt;/a&gt;) but this time I want to know how I can get a colored pencil drawing to look very shadowy and dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I color the picture where it looks like the figure is somewhere with very dim lighting? (For example, in a room with only a few candles lit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find this next to impossible, but really want to know how to pull it off because it's an effect I always find myself wanting in particular drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:35:13.417" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:35:13.417" Title="Dim lighting with colored pencils" Tags="|drawing|color|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2205" CreationDate="2016-09-16T12:40:33.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brand, Model, Functionality and Missing Parts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Singer is first choice, White second, and other brands should be&#xA;purchased only if complete (check for bobbins, presence of operating&#xA;manual, and condition of moving parts). Singers are more numerous&#xA;and, therefore, parts for them are more readily available ...  if&#xA;not from dealers, then from other old machines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Singer made various models, and accessories are not equally easy to&#xA;find in all cases. If the machine you're considering comes with only&#xA;one or two bobbins, for instance, make sure they're the disc variety&#xA;rather than the scarcer long type.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look over the machine carefully. A few small parts may be missing,&#xA;but such pieces are generally replaceable. Major hardware, however,&#xA;is more difficult to obtain or repair. Move the treadle to be sure&#xA;it functions, and check the rods that connect it to the wheel. See&#xA;if the skirt guard — a handy item — is in place. And, no matter what&#xA;its condition, if you come on an unusable machine for free or a&#xA;couple of dollars, take it. It may be a fine source of parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're at an auction and overhear some woman saying that she&#xA;wants a treadle operated sewer because the cast iron base makes a&#xA;nice table or the drawers make pretty flower boxes, outbid her if&#xA;you can. This sort of thing is being done far too often, and it's a&#xA;terrible waste of good sewing machines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="911" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T12:40:33.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-15T18:11:46.590" Score="3" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I paint my acoustic guitar like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I695e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I695e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9sJTm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9sJTmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Rodrigo Nader" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-16T14:34:01.960" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T14:34:01.960" Title="How to paint my acoustic guitar?" Tags="|material-selection|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2209" CreationDate="2016-09-15T18:43:54.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second example (&quot;No me llores&quot;) looks airbrushed to me. The first... frankly, I think that you could achieve it with nothing more than a wood stain, correcting fluid and a pocket-knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be aware, however, that both paintjobs are likely to impair the tone of the instrument. The first one, especially, looks like a number of no-skill, homebrew paintjobs that I've seen over the years. They do very little for a guitar as guitar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tone of an acoustic guitar depends greatly on how the soundbox vibrates. Applying a ham-fisted paintjob onto the soundboard, especially, &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; change its sonic characteristics. What is worse, heavy-handed painting will make it nigh impossible to repair the damage, once it is done (you might simply find it impossible to be rid of the paint without having to sand off a whole layer of wood that it has seeped into, which introduces its own set of problems). This is the reason acoustic guitars are given only a thin coat of soft paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend doing anything like this to anything other than a cheap and already sub-par guitar - unless you have no intention of ever playing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solid-body electric guitars are much more amenable to crazy paintjobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Faza" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T18:43:54.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2200" CreationDate="2016-09-16T17:28:50.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrapping anything in polythene is inevitably going to have a profound effect on its appearance, there is no way around that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better solution is to display them in a closed case or cabinet with glass (or similar)  sides or windows, these vary in design from very modern looking all perspex cases to more antique looking wooden framed ones (google 'display case' for countless examples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other similar solutions, you can get glass or acrylic &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=bell%20jar&amp;amp;rlz=1C1GIWA_enGB625GB625&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1440&amp;amp;bih=815&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjXg-7Vs5TPAhWLLcAKHUJ-AZIQ_AUIBygC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bell jars&lt;/a&gt; reasonably inexpensively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two dimensional work can be framed behind glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T17:28:50.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:48:51.157" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the light is coming from a candle, or group of candles, you're going to have very dramatic &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiaroscuro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chiaroscuro&lt;/a&gt; lighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shadows should be very black, with not a lot of grey tones.  Keep in mind that only the elements very close to the candles are going to be visible.  Also, candles have yellow light, so basically all colors are a shade of yellow or orange.  Blues and purples will be just about black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="949" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-12-25T15:29:45.713" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T15:29:45.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:52:46.247" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your paper is thick enough, you can water down liquid glue and spread it with a brush.  That's worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="949" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T20:52:46.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-17T03:52:29.923" Score="6" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work a lot with younger children, and we do a lot of crafts. Of course, after using markers, we always end up with destroyed marker tips, like shown: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AG9rv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AG9rv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that's a problem. Not only does everyone no longer get to use the marker, but to have to replace markers eventually gets fairly expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to seek a solution to this. Are there any techniques that I, from a teacher perspective, can do or use to help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevent students from destroying the marker tip;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or to recover a destroyed marker tip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in the alternative where there isn't any where to get back my markers, are there any products that offer coloured collections of markers that can win in the marker tip war against children? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Oh, and I'm looking for coloured markers like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/8f718009-5d8c-4c63-98b1-9fefae4a4971_1.69a23b2d3c06f2970c699316d6d74bee.jpeg?odnHeight=450&amp;amp;odnWidth=450&amp;amp;odnBg=FFFFFF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, not dry erase markers like in the picture)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T07:27:05.130" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T07:27:05.130" Title="How can I ensure my marker tips don't get destroyed?" Tags="|tool-selection|markers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2216" CreationDate="2016-09-17T05:14:02.690" Score="9" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a box of ~1000 (void) gift cards of various colors from my old job because I expressed interest in making a mosaic from the colorful plastic bits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how to cut them? I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kitchen Shears: the dull edge is perfect for a plant stem, but it just chews up the tough plastic. It even gets a little opaque white where the cut stresses the material, which ruins the color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper Cutter: good for one precise cut at a time. Takes a long time and dulls the blade rather quickly (and I don't know how to sharpen it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper shredder with credit card attachment: Starts off pretty good, but the blades visibly dulled after a dozen and only cuts in one direction, which necessitates another method anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of specialty cutter for plastic I could co-opt for my project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T03:18:12.523" Title="How to cut gift cards in order to make a mosaic?" Tags="|cutting|plastic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2215" CreationDate="2016-09-17T14:04:24.120" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always found one of the appeals of mosaic to be creating non-uniform / random shapes for your art. Both of these options can help capture that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Score the card&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you score one surface of the card, with something like a craft knife, you should be able to make it snap along the score line. In general straighter will be easier to snap off. By all means, you can do curve but if they are too extreme or change directions you will have a tougher time removing them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this will be faster than what you are already doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Freeze the card&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that freezing the card and making it brittle will make it so that you can hit it and it should shatter into easy random shapes. I am not sure if a conventional freezer will get the card cold enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just tried it with my old health card and it did work rather well. It snapped in my hands. However, I handled it too much so it warmed up and started to bend more than break. I would try keeping in the freezer longer. After some time, wrap it in a cloth and quickly hit it again on a hard surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One method to expedite this process would be to wrap the cards inside wet paper towel. Once the water on the towel freezes it should make it easier to process. Again, not sure if this is worth the effort or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="2335" LastEditDate="2019-05-14T20:17:13.730" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T20:17:13.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="546" CreationDate="2016-09-17T22:06:04.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tea or coffee will dye it brown, but it won't look that realistic.  You can try burning the edges, but that looks fake, and you can easily burn off too much.  I've found that brushing paper with vinegar and baking it at 250º F for about half an hour works well, although it had a slightly funky smell to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your going this route, you should make sure to do any sort of writing &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt;, because it can ruin your pens if you write on it after baking with acid.  Also, don't use water-based pens— they will smear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper will be acidic.  It will not be archival.  If you want something archival, you should probably get out some watercolors and go that route, which gives you much more control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T22:06:04.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2214" CreationDate="2016-09-17T22:22:37.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen children grasp markers in a clenched fist and vigorously fill in large swaths of the drawing area with colour. It's the vigour with which the children fill the area that destroys the marker's tip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is what you are seeing then there are a couple of things you can try to help the children learn focus and finesse when making art ... and protect the markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h3&gt;Break up large areas into smaller ones&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never have an image which requires to be filled in all with the same colour. Say for example, an all blue table cloth is instead made to have a checker pattern. The smaller checker pattern forces the artist to focus on a smaller area. The strokes become more controlled and the child's hand movement is slowed. You see this being done in the adult colouring books where the image is intricate requiring the grown up to slow down, focus and concentrate in order to stay within the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h3&gt;Teach them to hold the marker like a brush and not a pen ... or ice pick&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teaching the children to hold the marker as a painter would hold a brush will teach them a gentler way of applying colour to a surface. By changing the way the marker is held will reduce the amount of force being applied to the tip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you could try is to have the children draw at easels instead of tables. Harder for the child to bear down overtop of the marker and drive it into the drawing surface.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h3&gt;Less abrasive paper&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heavy tooth paper should be avoided as it will abrade the markers foam tip over time. Try finding a paper with a slicker surface. One that will allow the marker to glide freely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-17T23:07:39.570" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T23:07:39.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2215" CreationDate="2016-09-18T05:11:23.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are acrylic/plexiglass cutters you could try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They essentially score the material repeatedly until you cut through it or can snap it. Here's one in use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/AsBrJRNvdyA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/AsBrJRNvdyA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since credit cards/gift cards are so thin, it shouldn't be much work to cut them. Just make sure you have something to protect your work surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curves probably aren't likely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a number of brands and grip types you can find the plastic cutters in. Many are only a few dollars, and more likely found at a hardware store (or online) than an art store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T05:11:23.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-19T07:35:08.783" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before computers, to blend two pictures into one, I'd imagine the painter would have used some sort of mirror setup to reflect the one picture onto a mirror containing the reflection of the other picture. Does that sound right? &#xA;What about different blending modes that Photoshop has, like &quot;Difference,&quot; &quot;Pin Light,&quot; etc. What are the pre-computer origins of these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://image.slidesharecdn.com/blendmodesforopengl-140213092122-phpapp02/95/blend-modes-for-opengl-3-638.jpg?cb=1392283377&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Example of blending modes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="960" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T10:27:37.110" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T04:53:10.403" Title="What is the pre-computer version of Photoshop's blending modes?" Tags="|blending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-09-22T08:23:46.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="389" CreationDate="2016-09-19T10:30:38.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could make a stencil using cardboard and then buy cheap ceramic spray paint cans. ceramic spray is perfect &amp;amp; stencils are fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T10:30:38.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2016-09-19T12:43:58.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cotton tissue&lt;/strong&gt;: I find this to be the most messy option, since it's difficult to regulate where the glue ends up, which means you might get glue on places where you do not want it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a toothpick&lt;/strong&gt;: The sharp point might damage your paper if you press too hard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;craft knife&lt;/strong&gt;: might make your knife dull!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly use thick scrap paper (or craft sticks) to scrape the glue off and haven't had any problems with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T13:04:01.033" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T13:04:01.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2016-09-19T12:50:32.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Binding it using e.g. coptic stitch is of course more robust, but takes a lot more time and practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An option might be to fold the pages once and place all pages on top of each other with the folded sides on one side. Then you glue and bind the book as normal. This way, there is a larger surface for the glue to bind. The disadvantage is that if you lose pages, you will now lose 2 instead of 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T12:50:32.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2016-09-19T12:54:44.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally feel like the knife grip means you have to move your wrist less, which is why it might be better for your wrist joints. As for speed, it would be the grip where you could make the smallest moves, which would also be the knife grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T12:54:44.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-19T12:57:49.910" Score="5" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a number of misprinted business cards and I plan on using them to test a card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be gluing prints(Normal low grade printer paper) to the cards, but I am worried the business cards will show through the thin paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can 'white over' the print to make sure nothing shows through the paper glued to the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T04:59:17.770" Title="Covering business cards?" Tags="|adhesives|cardboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2225" CreationDate="2016-09-19T13:18:01.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can paint (spray paint if you want to be quick) all cards before gluing the paper. Black spray paint will make everything even and often only needs one coat, white spray paint often needs 2-3 coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T13:18:01.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1733" CreationDate="2016-09-19T15:53:40.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using 120 grams paper, it's best to use several signatures/booklets of 4 pages each. Then you can sew these together using a bookbinding technique (I like coptic binding - YouTube has great tutorials). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to use a different bookbinding technique, you can make your booklet flatter by folding all the folded pieces separately and making sure you have a sharp fold before putting everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-12-24T20:33:45.110" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T20:33:45.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2016-09-19T15:59:05.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pencil grips work! If they don't fit because your crochet hook is too thin, you can wrap your hook handle with tape (masking tape is easy to remove) or paper (but you have to use glue then) up to the thumb rest (the flat part in the middle of most hooks).&#xA;And if you want something permanent you can use polymer clay, I believe that is cheaper than sugru.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T15:59:05.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="77" CreationDate="2016-09-19T16:57:50.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you live in a humid climate it could also be the humidity. I used to live in Miami and anything that wasn't in a frame would warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="867" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T16:57:50.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2220" CreationDate="2016-09-20T04:53:10.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the origins lie in many places. In photograms and photocompositing, each image component is &lt;em&gt;burned-in&lt;/em&gt; over the initially white surface and the edges can be blended by using to &lt;em&gt;umbra&lt;/em&gt; of the shadow of the hands or stencil controlling the burn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blending tones is an important technique in drawing with pastels. I think a lot of the blending tools come from the &lt;em&gt;color blending&lt;/em&gt; realm, perhaps even more than from the &lt;em&gt;collage and photogram&lt;/em&gt; realm. So even things liking mixing paints have their computer analogue, which can then be applied to edges due to the converge of the two sub-topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="296" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T04:53:10.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-20T12:36:05.893" Score="3" ViewCount="1244" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my sewing machine (Brother CS6000i) has started acting up, such that the lower stitches are pulled through to the top, and the top thread is so taut that the fabric puckers or bunches up. I was able to un-gather the fabric every few inches by pulling more thread through, but that's far from an ideal solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the tension on the upper thread is way too high. If I try to gently pull the thread through the needle, for instance, it takes much more force than usual. However, I hadn't changed my tension dial before this started happening, and cycling through the settings didn't seem to make a difference. This is happening consistently and on all fabric types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it first started, I swept out and jiggled various things, which got it working again for a short time, but since then no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea how to fix this issue? Do I need to get it serviced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T22:22:34.740" Title="How do I fix upper thread tension being too high?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2237" CreationDate="2016-09-21T03:17:52.823" Score="8" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: I am a mathematician who is attempting to build some simple visual aids to assist in the presentation of my research. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To build the desired models, I need two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exceptionally springy wire.  By springy, I mean that it should quite difficult to put a permanent bend in it.  Guitar wire seems like it could be a possible candidate here, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A way to fuse this wire together.  It could be soldering, crimping, etcetera—I simply need to be able connect two loose ends together in a permanent way.  (Note: Any sort of connection that allows the wire to twist will not suit my purposes.  I need to maintain torsional pressure on the wire.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already managed to build models of what I want using the wire manufactured for high tensile cattle fence (you can get crimps that go with that wire), but the wire is so stiff that my models are too big to travel with.  Does anyone know of any potential material and/or methods I could use in place of the fence wire and crimps?  I'm at somewhat of a loss, so any advice here is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the most professional pictures, but this is what I have right now (banana for context):&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tNykn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tNykn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="968" LastEditorUserId="968" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T22:27:28.317" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T11:55:27.153" Title="Building closed loops with springy wire" Tags="|wire|metalworking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2245" CreationDate="2016-09-21T14:46:34.707" Score="9" ViewCount="4607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RTW (ready-to-wear, aka store-bought) dress which fits me well, and I'd like to sew a copy of it. I've done this before with loosely fitted tops, like t-shirts which only have minimal shaping, by doing a &quot;rubbing&quot; - lying the garment flat, tracing the seams on to tissue paper, and using that as a pattern base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bodice of this dress has darts on the side, so obviously lying it flat to trace will not work. I'm also concerned that the difference in stiffness between tissue paper and the dress fabric (a drapey knit) will cause inaccuracies if I try to e.g. make creases in the paper until it &quot;looks right&quot;. I don't want to pick the seams of the dress and take it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good technique to trace the piece with the dart? Or, how can I reverse-engineer how much of an angle was used for the dart? I do have a dress form, so answers which involve that are welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T11:17:06.527" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T17:34:38.463" Title="How can I trace a pattern from a top with darts?" Tags="|sewing|clothing|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2234" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-21T15:16:55.753" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T15:16:55.753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T15:16:55.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2235" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-21T15:16:55.753" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding creating patterns, most often associated with sewn apparel." OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T21:08:01.180" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T21:08:01.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2232" CreationDate="2016-09-21T16:42:31.963" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is called &lt;strong&gt;spring steel&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;spring-tempered wire.&lt;/strong&gt; Tempering is a process where the wire is hardened by heating which allows the resulting spring steel to return to its original shape, despite significant deflection or twisting. When you bend a spring wire, it will maintain a strong, circular loop without kinking anywhere along its circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R7m54.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product Search: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=spring+tempered+wire&amp;amp;tbm=shop&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spring Tempered Wire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To close the the loop, you can use a &lt;strong&gt;wire crimp sleeve&lt;/strong&gt;. They come in many many lengths and diameters, so it shouldn't be too difficult to find one that fits your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RYSDU.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxMbd.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product Search &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#tbm=shop&amp;amp;q=wire+crimp+sleeves&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wire Crimp Sleeve&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T16:42:31.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2232" CreationDate="2016-09-21T23:30:33.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also use bicycle brake-cable wire— it's very bendy, tough, and virtually impossible to permanently fold.  If you know any bikers, they might have old brake cables you could get for free.  You should join it with crimp sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T23:30:33.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2238" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-22T11:18:34.087" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T11:18:34.087" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T11:18:34.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2239" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-22T11:18:34.087" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding creating patterns, most often associated with sewn apparel." OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T11:27:12.380" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T11:27:12.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2016-09-22T19:54:17.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using the correct needle point and size for the fabric? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ball points for knits &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight points for woven fabric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the needle just needs to be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problem could be the thread holder, are you using a spool or cone? How is it attached or docked to your machine or the table? &lt;BR&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5hH2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5hH2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spool adapter image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;If it is a spool that is loaded sideways, the thread might be getting caught in the spool's edges and you just need the slide on piece (spool cap) that holds the spool in place. This may also help on a vertical holder. &lt;BR&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3mvb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3mvb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spool cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a cone, check to see if the thread is not releasing, sometimes it can get caught up underneath. You may want to get a spool holder and mount it to your table near the back of the machine. &lt;BR&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfARC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfARC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cone holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T19:54:17.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2243" CreationDate="2016-09-23T05:24:36.823" Score="16" ViewCount="30178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see black patches on my kneaded eraser. What is the right way to clean the kneaded eraser so that it doesn't leave any marks on the paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T12:59:53.290" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T12:59:53.290" Title="What is the way to clean a kneaded eraser?" Tags="|maintenance|erasers|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2242" CreationDate="2016-09-23T10:38:56.233" Score="21" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can see black patches on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a part of normal use. Those black marks are graphite, charcoal and etc. that the eraser picked up from your working surface. That is the eraser doing its job as intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are supposed to do is fold / knead away those &quot;dirty&quot; parts back into the eraser so that non-black (the erasers original colour) parts are exposed so that you don't get unwanted or inefficient transfer. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://rapidfireart.com/2015/05/14/what-is-a-kneaded-eraser-and-how-do-you-use-one/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rapidfireart.com on How to Clean a Kneaded Eraser&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because kneaded erasers absorb graphite, they will become dirtier with use. To clean a kneaded eraser, you can stretch and knead it until the color turns light grey. Eventually they will become too dirty to use as graphite, charcoal, dust or other particles accumulate in the eraser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at some point, you won't be able to keep using it and then it will be time to seek a replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-23T16:35:29.907" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T16:35:29.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2233" CreationDate="2016-09-23T18:39:04.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the dress is ready for replacement, you can remove the seams. You don't have to remove all of them, just the ones so the fabric can be layed down flat. I wouldn't recommend removing seams if you still want to wear the dress.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another option is measuring: draw the pieces of your dress on paper as good as you can. Cut them out. Then put on your dress and see if the pieces you've cut out of paper, cover your dress. If you've done well, you'll also have the dart on the right place. When the doesn't fit correctly yet, cut off what's too large and add paper where your pattern is too smal. You can just attach a strip of paper with some tape, no need to redo the whole piece.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If all else fails, you could try to find a pre-made pattern that resembles your dress, and maybe adjust some parts (e.g. length, neckline).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T18:39:04.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-24T04:25:18.003" Score="5" ViewCount="8698" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I build pixel-esque bead arts for people for gifts and such. But when I need to send them places, they sometimes fall apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LrG0x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LrG0x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pixel Art&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gragola.deviantart.com/art/Charizard-Pixel-Bead-Art-325327191&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charizard Pixel Bead Art &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Example above is not my work. Belongs to another artist.)&#xA;It is just a referential image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I am just wondering how to strengthen the bonds between the beads to make them more durable without changing how it looks since it is meant as an image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would really appreciate some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="984" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-24T14:22:02.167" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T08:39:24.390" Title="How can I strengthen my melted bead art?" Tags="|preservation|beads|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2246" CreationDate="2016-09-24T17:06:21.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things I can think of:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make sure the design is not fragile. The dragon of your example looks strong enough, but if you create a deer with thin legs, for example, I think it's more likely to break. Especially if you'd attach a large flower to one of the legs, so there is a thin connection between two heavier parts.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, be aware that letters and parcels are not being treated carefully during transport, so make sure you protect your art when you mail it. Do you put it between two pieces of strong cardboard, with some plastic wrap around it, for instance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T17:06:21.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2016-09-24T17:18:34.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not (easily) removable, but you can give it any shape you want: polymer clay.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Baking temperature is not extremely hot, so I think your hooks can handle it, and then you can put the clay in the oven together with the hooks. Otherwise, you have to find a way to get the grip off the hook before you bake it. In that case, you can easily remove the grip, but you have to find a way to maintain its shape while baking, and a way to keep it on the hook while you're crocheting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T17:18:34.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2246" CreationDate="2016-09-25T06:45:26.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into the type of plastic these are (LPTE?) and found a comparison of different fuse beads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://houseofgeekiness.blogspot.com/p/not-all-beads-are-created-equal-when-it.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://houseofgeekiness.blogspot.com/p/not-all-beads-are-created-equal-when-it.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guide casually mentions one technique, also mentioned by Matt in comments: fuse both sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other major factor here is trying out a different brand. The guide recommends Perler, or generally away from the overly cheap beads. Not all plastic is created equally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can try out other brands, that's what I would test first. It's something artists tend to do with supplies, anyway. Different brands give different feels or effects, and some just stink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tactic is to make sure you're melting consistently. If you use a plastic ironing sheet, instead of a paper one, you can eyeball the level of melt in any given section of the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need both sides of the image to be on display, then I would simply adhere something stiff to the back. It might be possible to use thin, clear plastic sheets, if you can find an adhesive that works and dries clear / without streaks. If so, that would let you add external strength while still viewing both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T06:45:26.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2016-09-25T22:22:34.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your manual, or download one.  Carefully look at the thread flow, make sure you really have it correct.  Are you using spools or cones of thread. Cones are inexpensive, but you need a cone holder. Did the spool wrap a few rounds on the post that holds it.  My old treadle singers do it all the time.  I use cones. Can you pull the thread &quot;no so easily&quot; through the needle eye? Not too hard, you'll bend/break the needle... if it is sticking.  Take a few feet of white thread &amp;amp; unroll it from a spool.  Put a dot on it every 2&quot; for a few feet.  Now thread &amp;amp; try, where does it stick... dots should help you find it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T22:22:34.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2232" CreationDate="2016-09-25T22:58:21.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hardened wire is difficult to &quot;use in a perpendicular&quot; way.  It really isn't meant to bend, or twist. It is a flowing substance, like for bicycle cables!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guitar strings, you can just buy a set of new ones for a few dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fuse the ends is relatively easy. If you have a Propane Torch, check to see if it is MAPP gas compatible. If you don't know, just got to the Hardware or Lumber Center &amp;amp; ask for a MAPP torch, and maybe an extra &quot;yellow&quot; can of MAPP gas.  Also ask for pre-fluxed brazing rods.  You are almost going to weld, more molecular transfer of one metal to another.  That is what brazing is.  You get the ends positioned so they don't move.  A couple 7&quot; or larger vice Grips should work. Put the vice grips both parallel to the surface you are using for brazing.  An old lawnmower blade will work.  NOT concrete, plastic, wood, or any thing that will catch on fire. Steel or Iron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have &quot;Brazing Safety Glasses&quot;  They are specially tinted, no don't use sun glasses. ... flat surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Position the grips ~2&quot; from the end of the wire, they will still get dangerously HOT. On the parallel part of the blade. Now the fun.  Start the MAPP torch, centered, on the center of the 2 wires.   Back to the torch, it should make the 2 ends &quot;RED HOT&quot; relatively quick, depending on their diameter.  Red, not sparking... sparking means you are trying to weld.  That is another day. The flux covered rod, goes right on the red hot parts of the wire. There is that microscopic bond.  You can take a regular bastard file (yes that is the name of a file) and smooth off any large protuberances!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next question is do you want to bend them to a shape, that stays, or are you doing 2d-3d stuff that the &quot;circle has to go back flat&quot; ?  If that is so, you will just have to make the shape, and get the number of hands needed to hold it.  If you want it static in shape.  Mark the bend points with a marker.  Get that very nice MAPP torch, keep it back a couple inches (not welding, or brazing) as it starts to get red bend it, let it cool and it will stay that shape.  You've taken the temper out of the steel, by relaxing the crystalline structure of the steel. It will not spring back! Do the same for other bend spots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2019-02-11T11:55:27.153" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T11:55:27.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="261" CreationDate="2016-09-25T23:13:01.820" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The final answer is experinmentation.  To harden the hot/red hot wire, quickly quench it in water.  That's try one.  Less heat, more heat, less time in the water, more time in the water. Ask an adult, if there is a bottle of OIL around, you can use. you'll have to add some of it to your beater anyway.  Take it down barely below where the taper goes away. use a pocket knife.  Only if mom says it's ok, use a steak knife &quot;Danger Will Robinson&quot; cut the top off the bottle.  Use OIL to experiment the same way.  You will get different results.   oooooohhhhhh &quot;Dark Arts&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why black smiths in the middle ages were considered to be doing a &quot;dark art&quot; being able to shape steel, to make it soft or hard... on it goes (the dark arts) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T23:13:01.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2016-09-26T04:41:10.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practicing with both common grips is a good strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you will naturally develop a preferred grip for most projects, having a variety of approaches you are functional with will make a much broader range of thread weights and project weights possible for you to accomplish with some ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also being able to alternate approaches will go a long way toward reliving tiredness and joint strain on big projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer:  BOTH in combination are better than either alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sometimes helps to wind a small scrap yarn ball around your hook that will fit comfortably into the V formed by your thumb and index finger metacarpal bones. There are commercially available hook designs that accomplish similar aids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T04:41:10.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2136" CreationDate="2016-09-26T05:01:21.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are pushing yourself to the point of pain, STOP; ...&#xA;if you want to crochet,&#xA;or enjoy ANY repetitive motion craft into advanced age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider setting a timer and schedule multiple,shorter crafting periods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you give up the intense drive to finish projects NOW for the joy of practicing a life long, much loved craft activity, you will preserve both your joints and your crafting activities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T05:01:21.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2257" CreationDate="2016-09-26T13:46:26.523" Score="5" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I randomly stumbled upon this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/TuEBKV6T5aU?t=31s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/TuEBKV6T5aU?t=31s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where a user modded his Nintendo 64 and gave it a &quot;custom paint job.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He mentions that he used 2 types of paint that were NOT compatible with each other in order to form this paint-job.  He said the paints themselves try to separate which causes the cracking effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I really like this, and would like to do something similar with a project I'm working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything wrong with mixing paints that are NOT compatible?  From what he mentions it's just that the paints don't mix and separate from each other, but is there any danger in doing this by mixing things that shouldn't be mixed?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there specific paints that would cause this effect, or would any 2 incompatible paints do this no matter the paint used?  I'm essentially interested in other cool effects that could come about by mixing paints like this, but don't want to encounter any dangers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note:  I'm not sure if this is the right place for this type of question, or if this is more suited for the Chemistry-Stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T14:25:12.337" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T15:36:32.697" Title="Is there anything wrong with mixing incompatible paints?" Tags="|paint|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="293" CreationDate="2016-09-26T17:20:24.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend 3M VHB tape. We used to use it to bond wood Muntins to glass when building custom door units. It is extremely strong, has a peel and stick adhesive, and because it is essentially a thin layer of foam, it will not be a problem with any slight wood movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Applications/~/Bonding-Muntin-Bars-to-Glass?N=8639921+3294737254&amp;amp;rt=rud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Applications/~/Bonding-Muntin-Bars-to-Glass?N=8639921+3294737254&amp;amp;rt=rud&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T17:20:24.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2255" CreationDate="2016-09-26T23:35:18.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, from my experience...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wrong? No. Basically, looking at the major art paint options I can't see any that, when combined, would result in a dangerous mix. Some, however, will mix a bit better together than others.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes and no. The key to the cracking effect is difference in drying times, some paints dry faster than others and when you apply a fast drying paint over a slower one, the result can be that the upper layer will crack. The &quot;no&quot; part of this comes from the ability of some mediums to adhere better or worse to each other. For example, acrylics use water and oils, well, oil. When you try to apply acrylics over oils, it will crack and split (your desired effect), but it will also tend to flake, which is less desirable. In any event, some mixes will probably work better than others, but there's likely to be some trial and error involved.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my suggestion is that if you're going to give a go, do so on some items you don't care about, but that also has the same surface material and try a few combinations using some student-grade paints (much cheaper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T23:35:18.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2440" CreationDate="2016-09-28T18:27:44.260" Score="2" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've completed my first origami magic ball, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EG3GmGZ1Ep8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the youtube videos&lt;/a&gt; I was following end with using blue painter's tape on the inside to join the edges of the waterbomb tessellation together. While it works, it's visible, and not particularly clean or a &quot;purist&quot; (no cuts, no glue) way of forming the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that you can overlap the first and last columns of waterbombs and glue the edges together to get a cleaner look. But is there an origami-purist method (i.e., folding only, no glue, no cuts) to do this that will lock securely enough so that you can still squish the ball without making it fall open? Or is a glue/tape the only option if you want this to be an action origami?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T19:33:25.363" Title="Is there a purist method to join/lock the edges of an origami magic ball so it's still squishable?" Tags="|origami|action-origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2265" CreationDate="2016-09-28T21:54:30.577" Score="4" ViewCount="17058" Body="&lt;p&gt;Home Depot/Lowes, etc., have boiled linseed oil at a much cheaper price than the local art store that I go to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any problem using boiled linseed oil from these home stores for oil painting applications, cleaning brushes etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1006" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-09-07T18:42:26.537" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T18:42:26.537" Title="Can boiled linseed oil from hardware stores be used for oil painting applications or cleaning brushes?" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-28T22:47:45.237" Score="4" ViewCount="2533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of thick-sheet metal that has letters stamped in it that looks like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WIQmL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WIQmL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to which I am looking to cut the lettering out of the metal.  I am curious what tools would work for this?  The metal itself isn't too think, but is thicker than a normal piece of sheet metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a few metal cutting tools, such as snips and nibblers, but they cut through the metal to get to their point of interest, which I only want the lettering to be cut.  I have also read that laser/water-cutting nozzles can get caught in stamped grooves, which could damage the nozzles, so that option is out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally was looking to get one of these tools&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006KLGZJI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/SCRAPER-SC-1000-DEBURRING-TOOL/dp/B006KLGZJI/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1475102130&amp;amp;sr=8-15&amp;amp;keywords=deburring+tool+noga&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and try to shave off little bits of metal alone the way.  This would be the most tedious, but would probably produce great results (I hope).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious if anyone have any recommendations on what tool would be useful for my needs?  I think the grooves would provide good support for this tool so it wont cause mistakes, and I think that since it's stamped, it should be easier to cut through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also am looking to provide additional lettering (non-stamped) and curious if this tool would work if I had some sort of stencil/guide as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T14:40:50.840" Title="How would I cut out lettering from a stamped piece of thick-sheet metal" Tags="|tool-selection|cutting|metal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2016-09-29T09:07:09.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with crochet hooks when crocheting.  Personally, I used foam pencil grips with the addition of some band aids to thicken the hook.&#xA;Alternatively, try using Coban self adhesives to create an extra layer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5ui0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5ui0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Self Adhesive tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Coban-Self-Adherent-Wrap?N=5002385+8707795+8707798+8711017+8711097+8711108+3293321980&amp;amp;rt=rud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to the Coban page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1008" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T11:54:49.610" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T11:54:49.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2016-09-29T16:52:02.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you tagged this as oil-paint, I assume that is your intended use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, the BLO that is sold  in art stores is the same stuff that is peddled in hardware stores, be they large or small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can use the BLO from the gallon cans for anything that you might use the BLO purchased from anywhere else.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that not all linseed oil is &quot;boiled linseed oil&quot;.  BLO is not even actually boiled, but has additives that cause it to dry faster. Raw linseed oil is a slow drying product and may be refined.  Stand oil is heated and is lighter in color.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most hardware stores carry only BLO.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raw linseed oil is harder to find except in specialty stores (e.g. art supply houses).  Art stores are likely to carry multiple forms of linseed oil, but the one with the &quot;Boiled linseed oil&quot; label contains the same stuff as from the hardware stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastEditorUserId="725" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T15:15:19.403" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T15:15:19.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2016-09-29T23:53:09.347" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing about the art store options is that they're being tested by the manufacturers for their impact on the longevity of the painting or color impact to the pigments, so I would divide my response into a couple of parts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brush Cleaning? Sure, presuming that you're doing additional cleaning after. If you're looking to just store the brushes in the oil, between sessions, I would be more hesitant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting? I would pass on it. It may well be perfectly fine, depending on the brand, but as I noted, they're likely not testing for your use case. At the end of the day, if you're looking to make works that last, going too cheap comes with risk. However, all that goes out the window with student grade paint options. If you're already taking a skip on the longevity, then I don't think you're really risking anything here either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you can always test it yourself. Just don't do it on anything you care about until you know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T23:53:09.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-30T03:54:55.140" Score="4" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the summer I tried to do some hammered leaf art. Since I had never done it before I was just grabbing random leaves and plants that I thought would look good if I beat them on some watercolour paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yyrfn.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yyrfn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My beaten leaves and flowers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought a fern and some maple leaves would look really good but alas I has awful results. You can't really see where they were because there was not enough juice in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leaf in the upper left looked really good. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Hammered-leaf-and-flower-prints/&quot;&gt;After reading my first intro to this art&lt;/a&gt; the author said that: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You're looking for things with bright colors that aren't too juicy or too dry. It'll take a little trial and error to find good plants, so grab a variety and play around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that really the only advice when getting into this... trial and error? I understand crafting has a large part of just that but in this case is there more to go on for this when it comes to select leaves to hammer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I find a good leaf can I assume that species of that size and age is a good choice going forward?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a way I can tell visually if a leaf is juicy or dry?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I effectively access a leaf/plant for use in my nature prints or hammered art?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T15:01:25.533" Title="How can I select suitable leaves for hammered leaf art?" Tags="|medium-selection|hammered-leaf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-30T09:46:22.853" Score="5" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create a model of a pair of shoes in paper and I've run into a little problem. I'm trying to shape the toe-piece without creating wrinkles or cuts in the paper - I want it to be shaped as smooth as a real toe cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using this method. First I create a shape of soft cardboard. I then glue a sheet of paper on top of this cardboard to represent the outside vamp of the toe (on a real shoe the leather of the to cap). This is where the problem occurs. I've created an image below to describe what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The three-dimensional representation of the shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The side-representation of the shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front-representation of the shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The top-representation of the shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/asjr2.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/asjr2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red line is the centerline of the toe cap and the blue dot is the critical point where the paper becomes excessive and creates wrinkles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate this on a real shoe it's the edge of the toe (blue dot) that's critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1i66t.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1i66t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the shape isn't flat but bends three-dimensional a part of a paper glued onto it would become excessive at the blue dot. How can I glue the paper onto the shape without creating this excessive paper? I don't want to make a cut in the paper at the red line as I don't want any cut on this surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1013" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T02:58:42.997" Title="How to glue a paper on a three-dimensional shape without creating wrinkles" Tags="|paper|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-30T19:48:35.163" Score="3" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to a spa the other day and purchased a gift card.  The gift card came in an small envelope that had a seal on the back.  The seal felt like it was made out of plastic and had a Chinese character on it.  The lines of the Chinese character was textured so that it extended above the rest of the seal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seal was not made out of wax and it was a sticker.  What do you call this kind of seal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1015" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T16:42:53.453" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T16:55:35.117" Title="What Do You Call Textured Envelope Seals?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-01T02:02:14.020" Score="5" ViewCount="1698" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a fountain pen tip as a dip pen? It's for writing it in general. I do not own a dip pen yet, I have water based ink to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1017" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T02:21:06.153" Title="Fountain pen tip use for dip pen?" Tags="|calligraphy|ink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2269" CreationDate="2016-10-01T16:12:48.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. As there is no place for the fountain pen tip to hold a reservoir of ink through dipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dip pen has a slight concave curvature. This curvature helps to hold, with the help of the surface tension of the ink, a small supply of ink on the backside of the nib.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you draw the dip pen across the surface of the paper the tip of the pen deposits a small amount of ink onto the surface of the paper. The surface tension of the ink and gravity pull more ink from the supply as the pen is dragged along the surface of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the fountain pen there is usually a plastic tunnel at the rear of the pen nib which is the tube through which ink in the storage cartridge is supplied to the pen tip. There is no room for the fountain pen tip to stored any usable amount of ink. Dipping the fountain pen into a pot of ink will cause a glob of ink to form at the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really really want to try it then have a cloth handy. After dipping the fountain pen into the ink pot wipe the convex surface of the fountain pen tip after dipping. The nib will have a bead of ink on it. And you want to get rid of this bead before touching the tip to the surface of your paper. After wipping the drip away. There will be a small amount of ink that will remain on the exposed concave surface at the back of the pen. All depends on how far the plastic tunnel covers the back of your fountain pen nib. It will be a small supply of ink but maybe it will be enough for you to try. You will have to dip and wipe often as the ink will run out quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T16:12:48.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-01T20:29:34.820" Score="8" ViewCount="16371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning an armature for use in stop motion.  I will use 3 steel wires twisted together using a drill.  I am planning to have oven-bake polymer clay (such as Sculpey of Fimo) on the wires.  It would be wrapped around tightly to give some bulk to the upper arms, thighs, chest, head, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clay bakes at 250º Fahrenheit (121º C).  At that temperature, will the strength of the steel wire be compromised if I bake it in the clay?  It is important that the wire is stiff, and is able to bend without breaking.  Will the clay break when fired around the wire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T12:35:40.063" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T17:46:49.850" Title="Will I have problems with wire baked in oven baked clay?" Tags="|polymer-clay|wire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2269" CreationDate="2016-10-01T20:30:12.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the type of fountain pen nib, but yes, you can.  Obviously, you want the right tools, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintagepens.com/pen_repair_donts.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;know-how&lt;/a&gt;, experience, and touch if you plan to dismantle a pen, and it's all at your own risk. Marshall &amp;amp; Oldfield's &lt;em&gt;Pen Repair&lt;/em&gt; is a good guide on how fountain pens go together and come apart if you're completely new to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some pens, you can just wiggle the nib out of the feed/section. Most nibs are simply friction-fit.  Moderns, however, may not be, so be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a vintage fountain pen, the easiest way to remove the nib is to remove the section from the barrel (heating and a gentle touch will keep you from cracking the plastic/hard rubber). Some can be cemented in with a form of resin, so heating will soften the resin--obviously, you want to control the heat so you don't melt/deform the plastic of the barrel/section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, remove any feed tubes (also usually friction fit, but if this is a modern calligraphy/art type fountain pen rather than a writing one, it could be one piece), soak to make sure dried ink isn't gluing everything together, and then either tap the feed+nib out from the back of the section (a wooden nib block with a hole drilled in it big enough for the nib/feed but small enough to hold back the &quot;shoulders&quot; of the feed can be handy for this) or, you can just pull the feed and nib out of the section with your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once removed, the nib can then be inserted into an artist dip-pen holder (if you have one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have one, then removing the nib is unnecessary, and you can just dip the fountain pen in the ink--as long as it's water-based and can be dissolved by water, you're unlikely to do any damage to the fountain pen, since soaking can remove the ink should it dry and gum up the feed channels. I would not, however, recommend using anything like india ink which will destroy a fountain pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fountain pens evolved from dip pens, and the basic nib is still pretty much the same: a piece of metal that comes to a point that is tipped for smooth writing, with a slit for capillary action to take the ink and feed it in a regular manner to the paper. The only difference with a fountain pen nib is that it's designed to fit against a feed to regulate the ink flow from the ink storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, if your fountain pen nib is, say &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leighreyes.com/?p=2357&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;glass&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintagepens.com/stylos.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stylo&lt;/a&gt;, however, no, it won't work to remove it and try and place it in a dip-pen holder. :) :) The glass nib can also be used &lt;em&gt;in situ&lt;/em&gt; in the fountain pen as a dip pen (and will probably hold just as much ink a glass dip pen), but stylos are stylos and they are fountain-pen only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T20:30:12.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2272" CreationDate="2016-10-03T17:46:49.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polymer clay doesn't shrink like real clay, so you don't have to worry about cracks/breaking of the clay while being heated.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most types of metal melt at temperatures way higher than polymer baking temperature, so you don't have to worry about that either.&lt;br&gt; I've made Fimo things with a core of aluminium foil, and no problems at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T17:46:49.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2068" CreationDate="2016-10-03T17:57:36.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At youtube there is a video showing how to do it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/cYlvv03hbaE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/cYlvv03hbaE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Foundation chain: of any amount&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Row 1: 1 sc into second chain from hook, 1 sc into each chain st across, turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Row 2: 1 sl st into each sc across, turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Row 3: ch 1, 1 sc into each sl st across, turn.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The result is something that looks like it has been knitted sideways, but hey, it's done with a crocheting hook!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T17:57:36.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2016-10-03T19:26:25.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What helps me most when drawing is to study a couple inspiration images. I take the time to look very carefully at the colours (for example, when drawing and colouring clouds). In a dim lighting scene, do I really see a darker colour of yellow, or does my brain tell me it is yellow when really the colour looks more blue or gray? &#xA;For you I would suggest playing with your colour pencils to create a 'dim' colour palette in comparison with your inspiration images. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/629/what-does-it-mean-to-push-your-values&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; posted by another user may help you in evaluating your colour palette (i.e. NOT push your values)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for using candles to light the scene, the side closest to the candle should obviously be bright, with three to four different shades blending into each other quickly as you move away from the light source. The faster they fade to a darker colour, the eerier it will look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last piece of advice, I also find it helps to run a few images through a photo editor to see how it deals with the different colours. Something like Prisma will make even breaks between colour changes. This is really helpful for seeing where one colour ends and another begins and how much the colour changes.&#xA;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T17:18:32.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2282" CreationDate="2016-10-03T19:40:12.063" Score="8" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always loved drawing people and my medium of choice has been standard drawing pencils, but I often struggle with hair - specifically long hair. I've come across a couple techniques that have helped me make it look a little bit more three dimensional and given my subjects some body and shine, but I would like to know what you're techniques are for perfecting long hair in a pencil drawing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you draw the hair in large chunks? What are some techniques I can use to make it look realistic e.g.: soft, reflecting the right amount of light, not too perfect, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T19:22:22.477" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T02:19:24.313" Title="How can I draw realistic hair with pencil?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2068" CreationDate="2016-10-03T20:27:45.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two techniques that produce this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tunisian crochet&lt;/strong&gt; looks similar, but only on the left side - the front will look close to weaved fabric and the item will be very thick. One more difference is that left side of tunisian has an additional, raised loop, which is recognisable to trained eyes. If your work is up to 20 stitches wide, you will likely be able to use a regular crochet hook and not buy a specialized one.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here is a sample I made while learning the basic stitches:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9ayD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9ayD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sample left side tunisian&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other technique, and I suspect you will like it more, is &lt;strong&gt;knooking&lt;/strong&gt;. Knooking uses a special hook with an eye at the end and the fabric made is exactly like knit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't yet do this, so here is a sample offered by search engines (which also illustrates how it works):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJXkE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJXkE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T20:27:45.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-04T02:20:53.687" Score="3" ViewCount="2202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to design a real cardboard chair for a project I have in my engineering modeling course. The chair should be able to support a weight of 250 pounds. I think we are free to use any type of cardboard in the project&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I use available cardboard to make suitable legs? Would cylinder tubes be stronger than rectangular box legs made of glue layers of cardboard (possibly corrugated)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience using cardboard in props or floats that would have an idea on what works for supporting heavy weights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1028" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-10-08T23:14:05.227" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T13:47:19.457" Title="How to support heavy weights when constructing chairs with cardboard?" Tags="|cardboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2279" CreationDate="2016-10-04T18:46:41.347" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a natural temptation when drawing hair to think in terms of individual hairs and equate these to pencil lines. However this tends to get in the way as there is no reasonable way to draw every individual hair even in hyper-realistic styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead forget that hair is lots of individual strands and concentrate on what it &lt;em&gt;looks like&lt;/em&gt; as a surface/form/texture and in terms of light and shade. It is often easier to draw smooth, glossy hair as this tends to have more defined highlights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example image you can see distinct bands of light and shade which are far more prominent than individual strands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/amrZY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/amrZY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be useful to look at ways in which hair is represented in sculpture and more abstract graphic styles such as comic strips and art nouvea. This may help you to think in terms of the form and texture rather than the material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also bear in mind that photographic realism is not always the goal in portraiture and often you are trying to capture an impression of a subject rather than just mechanically reproduce an image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T15:23:15.053" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T15:23:15.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2068" CreationDate="2016-10-05T03:48:03.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option, that has the advantage of only using standard crochet hooks, would be to use Slip Stitch Crochet. From the description of the craft this sounds similar to what &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2276/44&quot;&gt;Ji Ugug's answer&lt;/a&gt; is referring to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the basic SS (slip stitch) is just inserting your hook through a loop, YO (yarn over), then pull through the loop you started with - Slip Stitch crochet works by changing the loops you insert your hook through and/or how you are inserting your hook into those loops (front to back or vice versa). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExelDm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExelDm.png&quot; alt=&quot;slip stitch crochet garter stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Slip stitch garter stitch&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmQRRm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmQRRm.png&quot; alt=&quot;slip stitch crochet rib stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Slip stitch rib stitch&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By working rows of slip stitches in front loops you can get the &quot;garter&quot; stitch. By working in the back loops you can get a rib stitch. The ladder of course more resembles its knitting equivalent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read a little more on this from as well as some other slip stitch techniques at &lt;a href=&quot;https://ayarnifiedlife.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ayarnifiedlife&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T03:48:03.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2262" CreationDate="2016-10-05T18:13:00.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A jewelers saw (also known as a piecing saw) should do the job these have very thin, fine toothed blades, almost a like a flattened wire which can handle very intricate cutting jobs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromark.com/jewelers-saw,6747.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Hh4z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jewelers saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.micromark.com/jewelers-saw,6747.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;micromark.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want some needle files to tidy up the cut edges afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to drill a small hole where you want to start the cut. Then you can disconnect one end of the saw blade from the frame, thread it through the hole and reattach it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These saws to take a bit of skill to use effectively but if you get the basic technique right you can achieve good results with care and patience even if you don't have much experience. The big advantage over power tools for something like this is that you have a lot more control over the rate at which you cut so there is less chance of making mistakes. It is also important to use the correct blades for the job, which is largely determined by the thickness of the material. If you use too coarse a blade for the thickness of the material it will tend to snag and jam. For metal around 1.5mm thick you are looking at around 50 teeth per inch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly you need to set the correct blade tension (do this by flexing the frame of the saw against the bench as you attach the blade), it should give a clear 'ping' when you pluck it like a guitar string. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also bear in mind that the teeth are directional and conventionally you should be cutting on the pull stroke (downwards if you are using a bench peg) this means that the work is pulled into the peg, keeping it stable and the blade is only loaded in tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T14:40:50.840" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T14:40:50.840" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2292" CreationDate="2016-10-06T13:30:29.593" Score="20" ViewCount="36798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use a regular pencil to sketch what I would like to paint very faintly, but I find that no matter how light it is, it can still be seen under the painting. Once the paint is dry, I can't seem to erase the pencil marks. Usually I end up drawing outlines over my watercolour in black pen or markers to seem like it was supposed to be like that to cover the pencil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to make the preliminary sketch under a water colour so I don't have to cover it later with black marker?&#xA;Are water colour pencils the better choice? And if I do use watercolour pencils, how do I make sure the colour evens out with the paint application (if the paint layer is thin and watery)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T20:04:00.523" Title="How can I make a sketch under a watercolour painting and have it not be seen?" Tags="|painting|pencils|watercolor|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2268" CreationDate="2016-10-06T16:55:35.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are describing an embossed sticker.&#xA;There are a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/?gfe_rd=cr&amp;amp;ei=SUXRV4KWPMuC8QeehJ7gCw&amp;amp;gws_rd=ssl#q=embossed+sticker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;services&lt;/a&gt; that can custom emboss stickers for you so you can get your own personal 'seals' as you referred to them, to close envelopes or put on certificates and things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are common for companies and individuals to use when they want to make something look fancy. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.papyrusonline.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Papyrus&lt;/a&gt; includes an embossed sticker with every card they sell to give them a more expensive feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/onaif.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/onaif.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Papyrus Sticker on Envelope&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T16:55:35.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-06T18:57:31.650" Score="7" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;My desk chair has started peeling. I think the cat scratched it, and now more comes off after every seating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what the seat shape looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s68IFm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s68IFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking into this a bit more, I realized that &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; the top &amp;amp; front of the seat have this material (the four sections easily seen in the picture). The sides and back of the seat are vinyl. I don't know if this changes much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to do something such as a fitted sheet, but I don't know how to go about measuring a pattern, especially if I plan on elastic edges. I'm also concerned about it sliding or becoming loose. The seat is concave. I don't want to sit on wrinkles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better solution than a fitted sheet? I don't want something I need to adjust all the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not asking for detailed instructions or total walk-throughs. I'm just not sure on what type of solution to use. Once I pick a solution, I'll ask specific questions if I get stuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-15T20:56:00.873" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T08:01:05.117" Title="How can I cover my desk chair's seat?" Tags="|sewing|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1901" CreationDate="2016-10-06T19:17:33.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once did a pumpkin in this fashion of Archie from the comic books. It was a little bit less sophisticated than the above example, so I was able to get the husk thin enough without breaking through simply by feeling my hand along the back wall of the pumpkin while I was carving on the front. When it is thin enough for light to shine through, you start to feel the pressure of your carving tool on your hand. For my simple design, this was plenty of technique to get the desired effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T12:56:25.060" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T12:56:25.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2299" CreationDate="2016-10-06T22:20:37.637" Score="5" ViewCount="2194" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to successfully dye a pumpkin? I want to spice up this year's jack-o-lanterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, to have it have bright or bold colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I'm not sure if the glossiness of the shell would protect it from the dye. I'd prefer not to make a terrible mess to test it out, so I'm hoping someone has dyed pumpkins or gourds before. Also, I'd have no idea about how &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; I'd have to leave them in the dye. (I do have those mini pumpkins on hand to test before using full-size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it makes a difference, I could buy white pumpkins instead of orange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If dyeing the shell is too much work/too hit or miss, then I'd be interested in applying dye with a brush to the portions I &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/1901/how-can-i-get-that-translucent-effect-on-jack-o-lanterns&quot;&gt;carve to be somewhat translucent&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T07:16:19.660" Title="Can I dye a pumpkin?" Tags="|dye|pumpkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2016-10-07T00:17:40.447" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watercolor is, by its very nature, a transparent medium and so it becomes really quite difficult to manage this. However, there are a couple of things you can do to help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw very lightly and then use a kneaded eraser to lift the lines that you have left. The remaining lines will be much more faint than had you just drawn as light as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw on normal drawing paper and then use a lightbox to show the drawing through to your watercolor paper. This way you don't even draw on your final painting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Erase the area you're about to paint. So, do it first, rather than after the fact. If you keep it small enough, you should be able to remember. It's pretty similar to working with kneaded erasers, but you're not making the line fainter, you're removing it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go loose! Don't do an initial drawing at all, but use a reference and simply loosely paint it. That's one of the really neat things about this medium, it lends itself to a free style that's hard to do with other paints.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watercolor pencils won't really work for your purpose in this situation. It's likely that the colors will be slightly different from your paints, so getting an exact match will extremely difficult, especially if you're blending your own colors. Marks from the pencils are hard to blend in a wash situation. However, you just go all watercolor pencil, then you can control your destiny as it were. I'm a fan of the medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, line and wash with the right subjects look really great, so don't necessarily feel like you're making a sacrifice to use a liner pen. If you want it to look better, look at being a little less precise with the lines, break them up a bit, and maybe skip some areas. In other words, use the lines to create variance in the image to your advantage in those conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T00:17:40.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2298" CreationDate="2016-10-07T12:14:22.503" Score="7" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my continued adventures in making pokeballs I have run into another issue that experimenting is not fixing. The balls are made just using single crochet (sc). Typically what I do for sc project row is something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ch 1, sc in same stitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;sc around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;skip last stitch in row and sl st into first sc of row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That works well for me and looks perfectly fine on something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://crazycraftiness.blogspot.ca/2011/02/crazy-little-octopus.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;toilet paper octopus holder&lt;/a&gt;. However once the balls are stuffed in pushes that those stitches out creating a visible raised ridge on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KjGUE.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KjGUE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bottoms of my balls&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Pokeball-Set/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions I was following&lt;/a&gt;, which are pretty much the same for all balls or spheres, clear on this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to try something different to see if I could avoid this I tried the following instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ch 1, skip 1, sc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;sc around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;sl st into first sc of row &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fixed the issue I am describing but the row ends also biased (instead of forming a straight vertical line every row moved over one stitch). Some people might not notice this - but I do!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How else could I be doing me sc in a sphere or ball so that I clean relatively flat row ends that don't bias? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T11:53:25.557" Title="How can I cleanly finish and starts rows, using single crochet, in my pokeballs?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2295" CreationDate="2016-10-07T13:54:04.543" Score="13" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this tool in my sewing kit, and I wanted to know what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vxu3om.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vxu3om.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;small pointed tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a couple of inches (centimetres) long. It has two metal prongs on one end and one of them has a plastic ball protecting the tip. Do you have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T06:49:16.433" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T06:49:16.433" Title="What is this tool in my sewing kit?" Tags="|sewing|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2294" CreationDate="2016-10-07T14:06:10.653" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a seam ripper. You use it to pick up and cut stitches in a seam that you want to &quot;unsew&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use it properly, poke the longer end under the stitch, then push it through so the U part cuts it. Repeat every few stitches, then use either your fingers or the tool to pull out the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use it the quick &amp;amp; dirty way, pull apart the layers of fabric until you can see the stitching &lt;em&gt;on the inside&lt;/em&gt;, position the U part of the tool at the bottom of them, and push up between the layers of fabric to cut the stitches. You'll need to hold the fabric taut while you do this, and there's a danger of cutting the fabric instead of the stitches (hence the &quot;proper&quot; but tedious instructions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T04:10:58.807" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T04:10:58.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2016-10-07T15:48:16.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume by 'normal pencil' you mean you are using a number two/2B graphite pencil, so I'm sorry if that is not the case. It might help to instead use a harder pencil, like a 3H or 4H to draw your sketch in lightly. The lines on harder graphite pencils will be much fainter than a normal pencil, and as long as you are drawing gently should be easier to erase after your first wash dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1044" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T15:48:16.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="401" CreationDate="2016-10-07T17:02:25.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the kiln is rated for 1950 degrees Fahrenheit, then that's about the highest you should fire it to.  The number of rings you use isn't a function of how hot it gets but more a function of how much space the inside of the kiln will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test the kiln, you can just plug it in and turn it on, if it heats up, it works.  As BrownRedHawk stated, you should place some cones in the kiln when it fires to see how hot it gets.  Sounds like your kiln will probably easily fire to cone 06 to 04.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1045" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T17:02:25.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2293" CreationDate="2016-10-08T11:53:25.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Genrally in amigurumi you don't crochet in rows, but in spiral. This way there is no visible seam at all, but you usually need a stitch marker to keep track of where rows begin and end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of a bottom of a bunny I made, to illustrate how it's done and looks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4Ovc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4Ovc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T11:53:25.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2291" CreationDate="2016-10-08T14:34:43.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, yes you can... lots of people &lt;a href=&quot;http://cfabbridesigns.com/holidays/halloween/dyed-pumpkins/#.UGSdPo1mR9u&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dip dye pumpkins&lt;/a&gt; using food coloring, though the outer skin of the pumpkin will not absorb the dyes as well as the flesh of the pumpkin. If you want to enhance the dye absorption on the surface, a very light sanding with a fine-grained sandpaper to lightly score the surface will probably help there. As you have the small ones to test, I'd test both scored and not to see how it works out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T14:34:43.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2301" CreationDate="2016-10-09T02:54:47.377" Score="11" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to art, I see both terms quite frequently, but nobody ever really stops to explain the difference. What, then, is the difference between a pigment and a dye? Is it source? Usage? Or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T04:30:11.323" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T20:07:49.920" Title="What's the difference between a pigment and a dye?" Tags="|terminology|color|dye|pigments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2300" CreationDate="2016-10-09T04:24:59.163" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple difference is that a pigment is insoluble in the liquid vehicle (water or other liquid carrier). So, when you mix it with water or another liquid, it becomes a suspension. Over time, a suspension will settle, and you'll have to mix it back up. Or, if the liquid were to evaporate, the pigment would remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dye is generally soluble in the liquid vehicle, or already a liquid. It doesn't settle. Historically, dyes came from natural sources such as mashed berries, boiled plants, bugs and various vegetation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site contains a more scientific comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.duraamen.com/blog/differences-between-dyes-and-pigments/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.duraamen.com/blog/differences-between-dyes-and-pigments/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also find some encyclopedic definitions on Wikipedia, which get into the way the compounds and molecules interact on a more fundamental level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-12-28T20:07:49.920" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T20:07:49.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2303" CreationDate="2016-10-09T20:40:15.323" Score="5" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to give definition to the x, y and z axes in terms of projection. Everywhere around the web, I see complicated definitions. Some use world coordinate space and some say they represent the three dimensions of this world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way I can define the axes in such a way that is accurate and understood by kids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1049" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T00:54:59.600" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T00:54:59.600" Title="How can I define the three axes and their purpose in an isometric projection?" Tags="|drawing|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2016-10-10T00:37:04.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's imagine we are going to paint this bowl of fruits on the table that contains an apple, a banana and a pineapple. To help us with the borders, we put this wooden frame around the bowl. As you can see the whole bowl with all the nice fruit can be seen within the frame. If you close one of your eyes, you will even be able to see the picture that we are supposed to paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, have both of your eyes open again and you see the real bowl of fruit within the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get up close on the frame and see that the banana is actually extending out of the frame and towards us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the axis of projection. The X and Y are parts of the frame. X is the long bottom part. Y is the left/right shorter parts, the verticals, going up from the bottom to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third axis is how the banana is protruding against us. We could put a ruler in the left lowermost corner of the frame corners just to be able to measure how far the banana or the pineapple leaves are protruding at different places. That ruler is Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T06:52:46.830" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T06:52:46.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2016-10-10T00:51:37.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spread out your hands, that's the x-axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand tall, that's your y-axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick out your stomach, that's your z-axis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T00:51:37.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2305" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-10T07:25:10.357" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T07:25:10.357" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T07:25:10.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2306" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-10T07:25:10.357" Score="0" Body="For questions about art pigments, such as those used to mix custom paint." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T07:25:10.357" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T07:25:10.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2307" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-10T07:26:17.233" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T07:26:17.233" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T07:26:17.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2308" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-10T07:26:17.233" Score="0" Body="For questions about hammered leaf, or hapa zome, art." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T07:26:17.233" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T07:26:17.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2311" CreationDate="2016-10-10T11:15:13.683" Score="6" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time planning designs for reduction printing (carving a block for printing, carving more away for each colour). At the moment I draw the basic design on the block, but I keep cutting away bits on the first pass that I want darker on the next layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a method people use to make this easier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1052" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T13:57:07.040" Title="How should I be planning my reduction print designs?" Tags="|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2016-10-10T13:10:03.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer using the knife grip. I find it more comfortable when I'm holding my hook and faster to do. It also means I can see what I'm doing clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's each to their own really, whatever feels comfortable for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1053" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T14:26:01.167" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T14:26:01.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2309" CreationDate="2016-10-10T16:10:48.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the have a computer drawing program such as Photoshop, gimp or Inkscape you could use those programs layering ability to simulate the different cut and colour &quot;layers&quot; you are looking to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each layer would correspond to a cut and color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different pen tools could also be used to simulate different cutting tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the zoom feature would allow you to assess the graphic presentation and design quality at various scales. Software scale able thumbnail feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T16:10:48.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-11T00:18:10.563" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for brands/types of plastic that are more &quot;clear&quot; than others.  I am not sure if there are any differences between types i.e., acrylic, plexiglass, etc, but I would assume that some are more suited for certain situations, and are made in certain ways, with certain materials.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am essentially looking to replace a couple of computer &quot;side panels&quot; so I would like materials that are very clear, and wont get beat up i.e., scratches and smudges such as one review I had read on Amazon that claimed their &quot;Lexan&quot; was full of non-removable smudges which sounds like a defect to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastEditorUserId="996" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T20:21:22.760" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T13:07:56.110" Title="Are there specific types of plastic that are more &quot;Clear&quot; than others?" Tags="|plastic|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2314" CreationDate="2016-10-11T00:24:32.553" Score="3" ViewCount="5259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to bend a piece of plastic/acrylic (not really sure what I'm getting yet), for a craft project I am working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched this video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkpqfcg1W_o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkpqfcg1W_o&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where they heat and bends a piece of acrylic, with a propane, or some other type of torch. To me, it seems like a really bad idea using a torch. He is also inside, which also seems like a really bad idea, unless he had a very good ventilation system...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using a hair-dryer, but I'm not sure if it would get hot enough, as well as doing this outside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious if this seems like a bad idea? I would assume with proper ventilation I should be fine? I also do think that the torch overheated the acrylic in the video, which would not be a problem with a hair-dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T00:59:12.477" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T14:47:40.447" Title="Are there toxic concerns with using a heatgun/torch on plastic/acrylic?" Tags="|safety|plastic|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2313" CreationDate="2016-10-11T15:25:20.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you overheat it, most thermo-plastics will give off dangerous gases when heated above a certain temperature. For bending, you need somewhere between 100C - 170C (212&amp;deg;F - 338&amp;deg;F). Cast acrylic needs higher temperatures than extruded (due to the higher molecular weight), and thicker sheet need slightly higher temperature than thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But do not go above&lt;/strong&gt; 170C (338&amp;deg;F) for extruded acrylic or 190C (374&amp;deg;F) for casted. Just start off low and heat it slowly until the material will bend as you need it. It's only the bubbling and scorching caused by &lt;em&gt;excessive&lt;/em&gt; heating that gives off the nasty fumes when burnt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my post on &lt;a href=&quot;https://lifehacks.stackexchange.com/a/9975/80&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lifehacks &amp;mdash; Working with acrilyc/plexiglass&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, electric strip heaters are generally recommended (depending on what you are trying to do), but any electric indirect infrared source can be improvised for occasional use. BBQ starters, heat guns, hair dryers, and even light bulbs have been used, but toaster ovens are a bit more problematic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, low and slow is the key. You have to have a controllable heating source, so be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:51:43.187" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T14:47:40.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2315" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-11T16:42:36.540" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T16:42:36.540" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T16:42:36.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2316" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-11T16:42:36.540" Score="0" Body="Meant for questions regarding the intricacies and difficulties associated with drawing or painting anything that has as face. For medium specific questions, please tag that medium. " OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T04:52:49.817" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T04:52:49.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2163" CreationDate="2016-10-11T16:51:01.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any spray on screen filler but you may want to look into trying some light sensitive photo emulsion.  Its kind of like taking a photograph, basically you cover the screen with the emulsion, let it dry, place the leaves on top of the emulsion, and expose it to light.  The light will harden the emulsion all over the screen except where the leaves have blocked out the light.  You wash/scrub the remaining emulsion out of unexposed spots.  Since the emulsion is light sensitive, you'll need to keep it in the dark until your ready to expose it, any room with out windows, or with the light completely blocked out will work.  You'll also need to use a red light while working with the emulsion in the dark.  I've used Diazo photo emulsion but there are plenty of brands out there.  You can find it online or at one of the chain arts and crafts stores.  Its not too tough to do, this is how I make my screens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to more detailed instructions from the manufacturer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jerrysartarama.com/DOWNLOADS/INSTRUCTIONS/DIAZO%20Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jerrysartarama.com/DOWNLOADS/INSTRUCTIONS/DIAZO%20Instructions.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1045" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T16:51:01.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2016-10-11T17:10:03.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the inks your referring to specifically but given your concern about too much fading, you may want to consider pre-treating your fabric and being done with it, esp. if you don't trust your print shop or its very important it is to my customer that the design not fade.  My perspective is more of from that of a professional artist/craftsman working on a project, although I would want to spend as little as possible, I would need to weigh the cost of doing it once well against the cost of having to redo something that didn't work out.  I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1045" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T17:10:03.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2322" CreationDate="2016-10-11T17:56:18.460" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;In high school, I used to print images, draw grids over them and carry them around in my sketch book. Now, I have my smartphone with me all the time and am almost never near a cheap and easy printer. Needless to say, I usually use my phone to find art projects or inspiration images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a software or website that can quickly draw a grid (of my chosen size) over an image on my smartphone that can be saved to my device? It would make my art projects and sketching from a photo a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T02:24:46.040" Title="How to draw a grid over and image that won't be printed?" Tags="|drawing|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2016-10-11T18:34:17.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A low tech solution is to print a grid onto acetate, cut it out and just lay it over the image you want to copy. This has the advantage that it will work on any medium and is quick and easy to use once you have made your grid. You could also have different grid spacing for different applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also glue it into a card mount to make sure it lays flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T23:41:57.067" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T23:41:57.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2016-10-11T20:05:50.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few grid drawings apps for the iPhone that I know of. Look up &quot;drawing grid&quot; and &quot;artist grid drawing tool&quot;. Some are free with ads, some of them cost a couple of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T23:42:17.180" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T23:42:17.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2016-10-12T02:24:46.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jacksonsart.com/artgrid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jackson's ArtGrid&lt;/a&gt; which is available for IOS and Android. You have the ability to control the grid dimensions, style of grid, etc. It also has a greyscale function which is really nice for working out the tonal ranges in an image. Finally, you can save, share, and print the result which can be edited and tweaked later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not bad, I like it. The interface could be a bit better, but it does the job and does it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T02:24:46.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1901" CreationDate="2016-10-12T07:19:31.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have owned and used a pumpkin carving tip on my dremmel before. It only takes away some of the layers of pumpkin peel and creates the effect!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1059" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T07:19:31.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2325" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-12T11:52:49.380" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T11:52:49.380" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T11:52:49.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2326" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-12T11:52:49.380" Score="0" Body="For questions pertaining to the care, quality and usage of paint brushes. For techniques related to painting, please tag 'painting' instead. " OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T04:48:22.163" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T04:48:22.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2327" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-12T11:55:07.270" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T11:55:07.270" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T11:55:07.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2328" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-12T11:55:07.270" Score="0" Body="For questions on the care for, usage of, and selection erasers meant for art, drawing and writing. For questions about erasing a certain medium, also tag that medium." OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T04:57:47.447" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T04:57:47.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2329" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-12T11:57:04.910" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T11:57:04.910" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T11:57:04.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2330" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-12T11:57:04.910" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use of actual fresh or dried flowers, stems and petals as a medium or part of a craft." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T04:46:22.850" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T04:46:22.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2341" CreationDate="2016-10-12T12:10:18.840" Score="7" ViewCount="2921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy knitting, and most of my family and friends seem to enjoy receiving my good projects as gifts, but every project from me comes with intricately weaved dog hair. My dog's hair is long(ish) and white. I usually end up sitting there and picking it all out as I go. I'm wondering if there is an easier or more efficient way to do this. Maybe there is some sort of protection for my ball of yarn that I could use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically everything I find on the internet had to do with &lt;em&gt;making&lt;/em&gt; yarn out of your dogs hair, so any suggestion is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T14:10:13.103" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T16:40:59.870" Title="Is there an easy way to remove pet hair from knitting projects?" Tags="|knitting|yarn|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="193" CreationDate="2016-10-12T13:51:11.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to say that I love the look of those yarn bowls and would love to have one, but my method is a little bit different from the suggestions. I wanted something that would allow my yarn to unspool as I worked, but that I could also transport easily. A friend made me a bag that had a super smooth (I would say it is satin) interior so the yarn could move around within the bag. It looked like a nice purse so I could also easily bring it on the bus and knit on the go! The yarn just comes out of the top of the bag. This way I could also store my project in the same container that I worked from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T13:51:11.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2334" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-12T14:12:15.870" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T14:12:15.870" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T14:12:15.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2335" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-12T14:12:15.870" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T14:12:15.870" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T14:12:15.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1780" CreationDate="2016-10-12T15:43:55.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Embroider or chrochet the face on it, then put the whole thing in the washing machine, so it is felted completely. Though you've already stuffed it, and you probably don't want that to be felted as well. So this is probably an idea if you can remove the filling, or if you're planning to make another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T15:43:55.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-12T20:44:15.773" Score="2" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;From this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2262/how-would-i-cut-out-lettering-from-a-stamped-piece-of-thick-sheet-metal/2285#2285&quot;&gt;How would I cut out lettering from a stamped piece of thick-sheet metal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to use a Jeweler's saw to cut through a piece of what I believe is stainless steel.  According to my measurement it was measured at about 1/32 of an inch which according to Google is 0.79375mm.  Essentially it was sized at one of the little notches on my tape measure which I believe was 1/32 of an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious what blade sizes would be recommended?  From what I have seen from some charts online that the thickness of the blade could make the hole bigger, but I want as thin a cut as possible, while being able to cut nicely through this material and cut the letters properly and with precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been checking out these charts &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=jewelry+saw+blade+chart&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;gbv=2&amp;amp;sei=F5T-V97jBcLRmwGM54TgBg#imgrc=Xum-J5TEfM8JxM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=jewelry+saw+blade+chart&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;gbv=2&amp;amp;sei=F5T-V97jBcLRmwGM54TgBg#imgrc=Xum-J5TEfM8JxM%3A&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But don't really understand which materials need which blade, except the one chart that discusses materials, except for metals, which is what I have.&#xA;Some charts discuss ability to cut precise cuts and such like that, so I want to make sure I'm working with the correct blades.  I believe I got 1/0 to 8/0 blades with my saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AS mentioned in the above topic, I am looking to cut out letters in this material such as this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WIQmL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WIQmL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE:  The Jewelers saw failed as it's not tall enough, bought a Fretsaw and Coping Saw to replace it, hopefully that does better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T01:23:07.877" Title="What size saw blade should I look into for cutting letters out of a 1/32&quot; sheet of metal (I think steel) with a saw" Tags="|tool-selection|cutting|metalworking|metal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2331" CreationDate="2016-10-13T01:19:18.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joann.com/search?q=yarn+container&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jo-Ann's lists &quot;Yarn Containers&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, essentially closed jars with a hole for the yarn to come out, that look like they might work to keep your yarn dog hair free while you work on a project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also make a similar container out of something like an oatmeal box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T21:31:13.613" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T21:31:13.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2424" CreationDate="2016-10-13T12:50:08.237" Score="9" ViewCount="3741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was introduced to scratch-art in high school and have loved it ever since. The problem I repeatedly encounter is in keeping the surface of the paper unmarked where I want it to remain black. I have tried a number of solutions as far as a storage is concerned, like keeping it between two pieces of paper and even buying a folder carrier for my projects to keep them protected. I don't wear jewellery when I work and that helps a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find though, that my faint pencil sketch I do before starting often shows up and is difficult to erase. the pencil is very shiny and reflects a lot more light than the paper does. The eraser makes more ugly marks than the pencil does. Further, I haven't figured out what to do if I do make a mistake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have tips for preventing ugly marks on scratchboard paper or fixing them once they've occurred?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a suggested medium to sketch with on this sort of paper to lay out the outline of a design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of one of my projects:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiCVC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiCVC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scratch art rope knot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2023-04-26T10:30:07.623" Title="How to keep scratch art paper clean and free of pencil and eraser marks?" Tags="|paper|tool-selection|erasers|scratch-art|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2331" CreationDate="2016-10-13T17:25:08.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can find/create a yarn bowl with a lid?&lt;br&gt;Maybe you can use some tape and see if the hairs stick to it. Duct tape is probably too strong for that.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; If all else fails, you either have to pick out the hair by hand, or restrict your choice of yarn to white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="137" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T14:02:59.757" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T14:02:59.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2289" CreationDate="2016-10-13T17:47:45.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to turn the chair over and unscrew the seat part. If the cover doesn't come off (probable), you'll need to trim the loose pieces and make patterns for each section. If you don't want wrinkles, you need to cut fabric out in the pattern of the original seat. You need to allow for seams and fold over the edge (measure the edge into the plate that screws the seat to the chair. An easier option without the pieces is to use a stretchy woven or a firm knit, but in time they will sag.&#xA;You can probably just use duct tape to attach the fabric under the seat plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="647" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T17:47:45.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5636" CreationDate="2016-10-14T16:48:42.783" Score="3" ViewCount="1032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to carve something out of juniper cut down last week.  I intend to make something like a hiking stick or some small decoration pieces, so nothing big or critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should the wood dry before I can start to work with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1070" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-10-15T14:41:50.820" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T12:40:32.110" Title="How long to dry juniper before working with it?" Tags="|woodworking|wood-carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="644" CreationDate="2016-10-14T19:53:37.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your circle have a limited variety of diameter and the felt is firm enough you can consider the use of a puncher like the ones used in scrapbooking or leather puncher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have those available currently, but here is a little equivalent experiment with an office puncher: One sees that the punched disk will stick to the main piece on one side (right) but with a firm pull the resulting disk is quite nice (left)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8lVy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8lVy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="70" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T15:13:18.533" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T15:13:18.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2289" CreationDate="2016-10-15T21:58:21.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duct tape is your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weave duct tape over the surface of the cushion as a new covering.&#xA;Different colours are available which would allow you to create the colour and pattern of your choosing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9sLl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9sLl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T21:58:21.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2350" CreationDate="2016-10-17T15:26:16.920" Score="6" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love to find and learn Origami toys, but I can't memorize the steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often manage to learn models or just while playing with papers I discover a new model; if I stop practicing them for a few weeks, I forget them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, how do artists memorize the origami steps? Do they repeat one model again and again and again?&lt;/strong&gt; I can recall, once, quite accidentally I made (own, new) a butterfly which can be hung on wall-hook in 'wings open' formation. It can also be inserted at a slit as 'wing closed' formation. But just a few days later I had to almost completely re-discover the steps. To make it fluent, I had to repeatedly practice it again and again, on several (3 or 4) days; and I still need a revision at an interval of a few months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm able to feel to-some-extent the symmetry, patterns and 'fit'-s. But when level of complication goes slightly up, I can't hold them at mind together, and I need to enter cramming or rote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, I've seen, many people &lt;strong&gt;including cheerful tiny kids&lt;/strong&gt;, can effortlessly memorize the fold sequences for long times. &lt;strong&gt;So I guess; I'm doing something wrong way&lt;/strong&gt;. (And I've seen in any subject or fields I've to apply any rote memorization or cramming, I did very bad, accumulate some headache, and forget all informations within minutes). &lt;strong&gt;So I guess those peoples (including cheerful kids) not using rote memorization. Am I right?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or rote learning (cramming) is the way kids do? Could it be  method that artists uses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have problems with mental arithmetic, and have a very lousy short term memory. I fail to hold multiple bits of information at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1091" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-15T03:54:07.733" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T03:54:07.733" Title="What is the right method to practice origami? Is rote-memorization correct method?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2016-10-17T18:44:24.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's because you are still at a stage of learning where you are simply memorizing a series of steps, without really understanding the more nuanced principles of and techniques of origami and how these forms are constructed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In neuroscience, it's called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=what+is+chunking&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;'chunking'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, and it's a crucial part of becoming proficient at any skill, and it only comes with repetition, study, and practice. With more nuanced learning, instead of memorizing the simple mechanics (&quot;fold this, then this half way, flip over and tuck back&quot;), you'll start thinking in the patterns and techniques that combine a relatively simple variety of folds to make increasingly intricate designs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it like cooking. You can follow (or memorize) a recipe and cook a chicken dish that you can prepare over and over without any real understanding or context. But once you learn the more intricate principles and science &lt;em&gt;behind&lt;/em&gt; cooking, you start to understand &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; things are done that way &amp;mdash; so now you are no longer blindly following a series of steps, but following the patterns and techniques you learned to achieve the desired result. Now when it comes time to &quot;memorize&quot; yet &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; recipe (or come up with a creation of your own), you'll already know about 90% of it before you even begin. That is how you build a repertoire of dozens, sometimes hundreds, of &quot;recipes&quot; without having to memorize each step of each individual creation without context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for the techniques of origami. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T18:44:24.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-17T23:12:36.330" Score="7" ViewCount="17647" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example: Is there a significant difference between a 15.75 mm crochet hook and a 16 mm crochet hook? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pattern that calls for a 16 mm crochet hook, but all I was able to find was a 15.75 mm crochet hook. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T03:36:30.740" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T16:18:41.300" Title="Does a minimal difference in hook sizes really change the outcome of a project?" Tags="|tool-selection|crochet-hooks|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2351" CreationDate="2016-10-18T02:06:17.710" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll probably be fine. One quarter of a millimeter isn't a huge difference, particularly considering how large the hook is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality is that the hook size is just a suggestion. Different crocheters will need to use different hook sizes depending on their tension. Someone who crochets very loose will need to use a smaller hook for the same project while someone who crochets tight will need to use a larger one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assessing gauge is necessary when starting many projects. Some are pickier than others. A shawl/blanket/scarf is unlikely to need you to find your gauge first as you're not working to size anything. Hook size and yarn weight is much more flexible in these projects. On the other hand, clothing (like a sweater) will require you to use the proper gauge for you to get the item sized properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If gauge matters for this project, work a test swatch using your hook and compare it to the recommended size. If your pattern says that 8 stitches is an inch and your test swatch gets only 7 stitches to the inch, you need a smaller hook. If, however, you get 9 stitches, you'll need a bigger hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T02:06:17.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3022" CreationDate="2016-10-18T02:36:05.483" Score="3" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just browsing in Pinterest and I found this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/454511787378322393/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/454511787378322393/&lt;/a&gt; and If you can't see it, I'll upload the image here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoG5z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoG5z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my question is: what is that? is it possible to make one of those that prints the brand in the papel craft? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1094" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T03:18:27.170" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T15:48:08.830" Title="What is the easiest/cheapest way to seal/stamp a brand in craft paper?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2016-10-18T09:51:01.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer a mixture of knife ( /blade) and sharpener (instead only sharpener) mainly for economy purpose.  (For safety and better-grip, visitors could use knife, not blade)&#xA;for the following causes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most pencils (here), especially the branded ones (!) , doesn't have the lead at exact central axis of the pencil. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YLjs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YLjs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Theoretical and practical&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; A: what should it be theoretically. B. What happens practically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, after sharpening the pencil, the open-portion of lead obtained, is un-uniform as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVtyM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVtyM.png&quot; alt=&quot;oblique&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;these leads breaks down frequently (may be due to un-even supports) while use, and very-frequently when being sharpened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, sometimes the wood/ polymer quality varies. Sometimes, if a wooden-pencil left for few years, the wood become quite more cracky. these add-up to breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I easily avoid this problem by using a blade or knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secondly, a Pencil sharpener gives 1 specific, conical shape to the lead (which is expected for education purpose). But when it is art; various-other tip-shape could be required such as chisel or dome shapes etc, where the knife is more helpful.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r81XE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r81XE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chisel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, for thicker-lead pencils, making a pointed cone using a sharpener means lot of wastage. A knife helps to reach a pointed tip losing much lesser amount of graphite; so that the pencil could be utilized for longer time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some very thick pencil doesn't enter into the sharpener at all. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However for first 2 cases, since sharpener works much faster (especially when it is educational purpose); at-first I little sharpen it, and stops before it reaches the lead. Then with a blade I cut-out adequate-amount of lead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1091" LastEditorDisplayName="user1091" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T15:30:13.987" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T15:30:13.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-18T21:29:58.223" Score="-6" ViewCount="1754" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find a list of skin color names? There's gotta be something more detailed than just night, porcelain, cadaver, and peach, kickin' around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, Brazil, (?), at some point had a partial list. Other countries will/might have their own, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure useful, in composing a painting, choosing colors to make up faces is an important necessity, especially if we want the painting to be realistic: :-| .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T20:56:55.930" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T20:56:55.930" Title="Skin tone color names" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2016-10-18T23:02:15.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure what your question is asking, but if you want names for different colors of skin tone, &lt;a href=&quot;http://writingwithcolor.tumblr.com/post/96830966357/writing-with-color-description-guide-words-for&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macmillandictionary.com/thesaurus-category/american/words-used-to-describe-skin-color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; have some names you might be interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, looking at the tags on your question, it seems like what you want is colors of art media, whether it be oil-paint, colored pencils, chalk, or oil pastels.  In that case, I would recommend mixing colors instead of trying to find media that matches your desired color exactly.  To get a skin tone, I would recommend mixing any combination of brown, &quot;peach&quot;, orange, red, yellow, or any other colors you want.  This will allow you to more closely match the color you have in your mind.  For each medium, there are different strategies for mixing colors, but that's a completely different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T23:02:15.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2371" CreationDate="2016-10-19T09:49:38.857" Score="5" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about buying a small milling machine for home usage. I have worked with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zaininger-wzm.de/images/Fraesmaschinen/deckel-fp2-rsfdigi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; during an internship and really liked it. It is a bit too large and too heavy though, to put in my small flat ;)&#xA;Does anyone have recommendations on specs for a milling machine to have? What I should look out for? Things like speed, size of tools, etc. What features are reasonable and don't make it too expensive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to make small metal projects, but it should be able to hold at least a 10mm-sized tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1070" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T16:51:46.183" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T12:52:24.530" Title="What specs should I look for in a hobby milling machine?" Tags="|tool-selection|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-19T12:28:20.840" Score="9" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a piece that mixes a drawing on paper, with a flower collage (or flat bouquet?) on top and put it in a frame. I know dried flowers don't last forever, but what is their post-dried life expectancy? Is there a way to make them last longer for display? I would ideally like to use real flowers, but if they only last a couple years I will have to use fake flowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few sources I found on the internet say to spray them with hairspray &#xA;(cheap option), or get them professionally dried and preserved (expensive option) like you would do for your wedding bouquet. I don't want to spend a lot of money ( more than 30$ or 40$).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece will be behind glass like a shadow box. I don't want them to decay. They will not be open to be touched, but I don't want them to crumble, loose colour or generally disintegrate. I want the piece to remain aesthetically pleasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Project Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up using folded paper flowers for the project and it turned out quite lovely. Thank you everyone for your feedback, but the dried flowers were not working out as expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T17:00:37.300" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T17:00:37.300" Title="How to maximize the post-dried life expectancy of flowers?" Tags="|preservation|flowers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2016-10-19T19:16:57.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why not use diagrams?&lt;/strong&gt; Have you learned &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yoshizawa%E2%80%93Randlett_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yoshizawa-Randlett notation&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might make sense, as with a recipe, to simply write down/draw the steps as you go, so you don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to memorize it, but can look it up at need.  Similarly, designers often use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.langorigami.com/crease-patterns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crease patterns&lt;/a&gt; to keep a shorthand all-in-one record of base designs. And as long as you have a model to observe and unfold/refold, you do have a record of the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this isn't the same as actually memorizing the folding sequence, but some sequences can be especially long and complex and don't lend themselves to memorization well, while others may be easier to grasp and remember.  And everybody's memorization skills and techniques are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Memorizing a model and learning origami are actually two different goals, in my experience. And while memorizing models can help you learn some origami fundamentals, it's much like the difference between memorizing a piece of music for performance, and learning to compose music.  If your goal is to be a designer/composer, than possibly rote memorization isn't actually going to aid your explorations of design principals as much as being able to notate and record your designs and design variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.langorigami.com/article/origami-diagramming-conventions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Robert Lang's &quot;Origami Diagramming Conventions&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T16:41:11.663" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T16:41:11.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2016-10-20T04:31:09.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What thing is called as 'skin-colour' in my oil-pastel box surprised me because it was white+orange (later I knew it matches Europeans' skin's colour whereas we were brown.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However its etymology is just tradition, and I think anyone shouldn't take it in sensible way. Its just as simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artists are usually never obsessed with packaging-name of the colour... but they show obsession to the look or sense of the shade of colour. They effortlessly imitate a natural-colour by mixing more than one colors in their palette... just on eye-gaze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make the proper shade of someone's skin's colour; you could try different available shades of yellows, browns, oranges, reds, whites, blacks, greys or even little proportion of greens or blues may require. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As some hints, could use ochre-yellow, burnt sienna, raw umber, crimson-red, scarlette red, gamboge yellow etc. from your colour-set, in proportions as required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P. S. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the colour-shade varies from country to country/ brand to brand/ medium-to-medium; the difference is probably not so drastic . For say if you get 2 shades of yellow ochre; possibly the different is not so drastic that one is totally brown and another is totally yellow. With slight color-mixing the desired shade could be easily derived. Seemingly you could easily do that, (because since you're using oil-painting that means previously you've learned drawing many years with someother media). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More-over, if you have the accurate shade that matches to desired-one's skin; still you have to mix some-other colour since you want 'realistic' thing. To make the dark, bright and highlighted portions of the picture of same-person; you must need mix colour in complex way otherwise everything will look flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1091" LastEditorDisplayName="user1091" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T11:51:18.767" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T11:51:18.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2362" CreationDate="2016-10-20T05:37:04.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a flattened flower is okay for your purpose; you could adopt techniques from herbarium-sheet preparation. Keep the flowers in a fold of a diary or hardbound old notebook. Change their position every day (if flower is larger or jucier, you could use newspapers since entire papers should be changed at few to 6 hours interval at start days, latter intervals will increase gradually). At first day the flower (or anyother plant matter) would become soft and weak. Gradually it would become hardened like potato chips. Sunlight in way is very helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After completion, paste them with fevicol or such polymer glue in thin-amount ((since your work is permanent, feel free to fevicol or such. Botanists use  gum or glue instead so that specimen could be taken out later-on and dissected)), and some simple biology box tools like a pair of needles, a forceps and a scalpel with neat and clean, gently stretched way. (if don't have biology box, don't worry, other art tools and household things could be used). After completion of your artwork, dry it under hard sunlight. could take help of hair dryer. but never a iron. Any spray or coat is not used in a herbarium sheet, but if you wish to spray laquar or such; please make sure it is properly dried. Because if the water is locked it will ensure quick deteroration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish make it insect-proof; could use book-binding gum with copper sulfate... but that is toxic as well as gums and glues may take more time to get dried, so isn't preferable. If you wish, could wish clothings-naphthalene but then you have to keep it out of reach of children. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in a herbarium-sheet preparation technique; the flower-colour is not retained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Herbarium sheet preparation technique already used by students for beautiful artworks especially with ferns, sedges etc. but rarely with flowers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1091" LastEditorDisplayName="user1091" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T09:54:10.303" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T09:54:10.303" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2409" CreationDate="2016-10-20T16:36:37.473" Score="9" ViewCount="14452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7100&quot;&gt;this jacket pattern&lt;/a&gt;. In case it's relevant, I'll be making it in a medium weight twill. I'm also adding a lightweight silky lining to give it a nice finish and make it easy to put on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In planning my jacket, I thought perhaps I could make it warmer by adding some sort of fill in between the outer and lining, but I've never made a puffy jacket like that before and don't know what to use. Most search results just discuss how to select a coat for purchase, not how to make one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some poly fill that I've used in pillows and stuffed animals - is that suitable for apparel also? What about batting, like for quilts? Or is there something else that is typically used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T18:09:53.420" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T06:29:57.317" Title="What materials can be used to fill a puffy jacket?" Tags="|material-selection|sewing|clothing|stuffing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2361" CreationDate="2016-10-20T18:41:03.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most hobby machine tools are made by a couple of Chinese manufacturers (notably Seig) and branded by the importer. However, while the basic machines are pretty similar the detailed specifications do vary and some brands will make a few key modifications and may provide more rigorous quality control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to bear in mind is that, while you can do a lot with a fairly flimsy lathe, milling machines tend to need to be a bit more robust to be useful, unless you are only ever working with very light materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of very good hobby forums and blogs  which specialise in getting the most out of economy machine tools and these are well worth a look and often have long lists of modifications of varying complexity to improve their performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The budget imported machines tend to be fundamentally sound but often lack somewhat in attention to detail in their design and construction so you can get a lot of benefits from a few simple mods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth pointing out that the machine itself is the bare bones of what you need and so it is wise to set aside a reasonable budget for tooling and accessories. For milling work holding is particularly important ie how you attach the work to the bed and things like indexible rotary heads can get quite expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also say that on this sort of micro scale for hobby work I wouldn't necessarily consider a milling machine to be essential and you can do a surprising amount (as well as achieving good dimensional accuracy) with good quality hand tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my advice would be to set up a workbench and start with a hand tools and learn what machines you really &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt;. I would also recommend that you read &lt;a href=&quot;https://wordery.com/the-art-of-blacksmithing-alex-w-bealer-9780785803959?currency=GBP&amp;amp;gtrck=VXgrOTB5aHlFOHduWHg3NlBHZGVMbWZMTkUvUDF0Zk93aHp2dXUwcTBWYnB5UkcxL0JGNUt0aDBRbkxCU0hwMmdNNzQxTWgwQndaUHJwT29XaHNUZ0E9PQ&amp;amp;gclid=CJvJj-SD6s8CFQYo0wodoGUMJA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this book&lt;/a&gt; despite the title it covers a huge spectrum of metalworking  techniques with an emphasis on basic traditional techniques. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T12:52:24.530" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T12:52:24.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2376" CreationDate="2016-10-21T15:54:42.900" Score="4" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to glue cut-out pieces from a shiny silvery Bristol board onto scratch art paper (or scratchboard). I also want to adhere flowers (I haven't figured out whether to used dried or fake yet) to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm facing is that the scratchboard has a very smooth painted surface. Without the rough texture of paper, I'm worried my items will not properly adhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a type of glue, or technique for gluing items to a very smooth surface like scratch board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T17:57:15.143" Title="How can I effectively adhere things to scratchboard?" Tags="|adhesives|scratch-art|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2374" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-21T15:58:01.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;scratchboard&lt;/em&gt;: craft paper that is black on one side and white on the other. The black coating is layered on top of smooth white paper and, with the use of tools, can be scratched away to reveal the white paper below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;scratch art&lt;/em&gt;: arts and crafts which utilize scratchboard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T17:32:51.457" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T17:32:51.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2375" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-21T15:58:01.287" Score="0" Body="Art form in a layer (typically black) is &quot;scratched&quot; away to reveal a second layer underneath (typically white)" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T17:30:28.103" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T17:30:28.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2373" CreationDate="2016-10-21T17:57:15.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find a &lt;strong&gt;hot glue gun&lt;/strong&gt; very versatile and forgiving for these types of applications. And it works phenomenally well for sticking irregularly-shaped items to smooth surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/if9ZF.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product Search: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=hot+glue+gun&amp;amp;biw=2558&amp;amp;bih=1437&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwier9DjuuzPAhXKbj4KHRJmCT8Q_AUIBigB&amp;amp;dpr=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hot Glue Gun&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T17:57:15.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-23T00:03:41.443" Score="2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a pirate outfit. I need to make a simple spyglass for it. I am opting for no sew but if I have to I will sew stuff I need for the outfit. This isn't for Halloween, just for fun and I like pirates so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have cardboard and paper and fabric(I suppose I cold knit myself a square and tie it or something since I do have yarn) and the only source I have of cardboard tubes is toilet paper and paper towels. I don't want to waste them simply to get my tubes needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I will store these tubes in a box so that I can use them. I have tape and glue to stick them on with. So how many cardboard tubes will I need to make the telescope and of what sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1121" LastEditorUserId="955" LastEditDate="2016-10-24T03:16:41.213" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T06:38:36.023" Title="Making a telescope for a pirate costume" Tags="|costume-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2377" CreationDate="2016-10-23T08:50:38.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A retracting telescope typically has 3 or 4 segments that retract into one another,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.ytimg.com/vi/QRUy_Q3HJp8/maxresdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pirate with 4 section collapsing telescope&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;although the insecure pirate may feel the need to get a longer one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.ytimg.com/vi/7NZft1r6Scw/hqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Captain Jack Sparrow in a telescope competition, holding a ridiculously long telescope&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key features of the section diameters is that they slide easily past one another but will not fall apart when extended. In other words, you need a &quot;stop&quot; that prevents the larger segment from completely sliding off the next smaller one that's inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a method for building that stop, the tubes should ideally have a diameter difference of 1-10mm. A set of tubes with larger size gaps can still be used, but the extended telescope might look sloppier (the cumulative gap will cause more drooping, as in Jack Sparrow's overly long telescope above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T08:50:38.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2016-10-23T13:40:22.990" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy &quot;heat-resistant fabric&quot; by the yard at large fabric stores in the utility fabrics section (literally called &quot;ironing board fabric&quot; at a popular chain) or online (several sources came up on a search), for about the same price as cotton duck or canvas, often for less. Measure the board and be sure to allow fabric to tuck under and attach to the bottom in the same way as the original cover. It is strong but not bulky or very stiff, silver-gray, and easy to work with, also often used for potholders. If needed, you should replace the cotton padding while you are at it, with cotton batting, from the same sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1122" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T13:40:22.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2384" CreationDate="2016-10-24T07:14:23.560" Score="-1" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there white ink ballpoint pens (not felt or fountain pens) that write on black paper, in a way that is close to frictionless and noiseless, with ink that dries fast and won't blotch the paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there hues of white ink that are easily readable (high contrast) on white paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer cheap, but good, factory-made white ink pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the pens I want. I want ink ballpoint pens, not gel pens, which I believe are lower in quality, as they run out of ink quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love Schneider, Faber Castell / Corvina, and Bic pens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNzmF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNzmF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of mentioned pens&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-14T11:04:55.720" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T02:51:27.430" Title="How can I write in white ballpoint pen ink on black paper?" Tags="|ink|pens|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2380" CreationDate="2016-10-24T11:06:36.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many possible arts &amp;amp; crafts uses for white ink, so it's definitely possible to buy pens with white ink/paint. Look for a &quot;gel&quot; pen with white ink, and it should meet all the requirements that you have outlined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asking at your local arts &amp;amp; crafts store is the fastest way to find a good source of such implements, but there are also plenty of online suppliers (here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jetpens.com/blog/guide-to-choosing-white-gel-ink-pens-and-markers/pt/340&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Guide to Choosing White Gel Pens and Markers&lt;/a&gt; from one example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T16:06:53.623" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T16:06:53.623" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2312" CreationDate="2016-10-24T21:33:34.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably looking for acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Computer case manufacturers often use acrylic. For a recent example, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002732&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thermaltake core P5 atx&lt;/a&gt; case uses acrylic. Also, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hydrosight.com/acrylic-vs-polycarbonate-a-quantitative-and-qualitative-comparison/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this datasheet&lt;/a&gt; acrylic has higher optical clarity than polycarbonate and can be restored to full clarity by polishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, acrylic sheets can be sourced easily, can be cut with a scorer, and are light and strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T21:33:34.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2312" CreationDate="2016-10-26T13:07:56.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as clear plastics are concerned the only plastics that you can go for are acrylic plastics. They come in wide variety of colors as well as thickness and can be opaque or transparent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily purchase them from the market. They are available in rod, sheets, and tube. They are quite strong and even stable in sunlight. So, as per your requirements, they are the best ones to go for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1102" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T13:07:56.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2380" CreationDate="2016-10-26T13:33:17.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;White pens and colors are often used to lighten up the shade in art and crafts. Apart from that they have limited uses. As per your requirements, I would suggest you to either go for either a white gel pen or a marker. Unfortunately, ball point pens that have white ink are not easily available and they will not provide the results you are looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to go with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jetpens.com/Uni-ball-Signo-Broad-UM-153-Gel-Pen-White-Ink/pd/380&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Uni-Ball Signo Broad Gel Pen.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1102" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T13:33:17.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-26T14:28:59.810" Score="9" ViewCount="12620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently working on a project that would require me to glue several acrylic pieces to an acrylic base plate. The pieces would be laying flat on the base plate. The problem is that the acrylic pieces are transparent and have been laser engraved and I want to be able to see the engraving clearly, without seeing globs of glue that are between the two pieces. The laser engraving is on the back of the pieces. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can make this work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZEshJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZEshJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;example of engraving&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of the type of engraving. The engraving is also rough to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1132" LastEditorUserId="1132" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T15:25:49.573" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T01:02:58.930" Title="What type of glue is used for gluing acrylic pieces together?" Tags="|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2385" CreationDate="2016-10-26T14:41:39.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is such a thing as acrylic cement and it can be purchased on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;. I'm sure it can also be found in some plumbing or home improvement stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Glue-Acrylic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WikiHow&lt;/a&gt; on safely gluing acrylics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the main points are to have properly prepared acrylic pieces and be in a well ventilated area when using the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T18:43:46.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2289" CreationDate="2016-10-26T15:36:00.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My process would be to make a drawstring pouch for each part (back, seat) of the chair - but then I'm very comfortable with a sewing machine and with odd patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my basic approach - assuming you are comfortable or have help with sewing machines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pick a fabric - You want something heavy duty, but also something that will drape OK.  Upholstery fabric would be the classic choice, but make sure it isn't so thick that it's hard to bend or drape over the chair. You could go as light weight as a thick cotton, or a stretchy knit fabric, but it may stand up less to wear and tear.  I suspect you want 3 yards, just to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're at the store, also grab either a thick strong cord, or a thick strong elastic cord.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Measure the fabric by draping it over each cushion.  Fold it around the cushion like you're wrapping present, leaving 2-3&quot; where it overlaps with any base (probably made of plastic).  Make sure that the fabric is nice and smooth and well positioned from top to bottom and side to side -- if the fabric has a pattern, make sure it's aligned.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark the width and height of the fabric with a chalk pen or a pin.  It also helps to mark the corners.  Make sure you have left 2-3&quot; of overlap, even at the corners, so you can gather it all together.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut where you've marked.  You may want to round corners a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;double check it again on the cushion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;serge or zigzag stitch the edges of the fabric&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;fold down the 2-3&quot; extra to make a casing.  Sew it down, leaving a 2-3&quot; unsewn gap somewhere in the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;thread the cord through the gap and into the casing, I generally use a safety pin attached to the end of the cord to assist me in threading.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;fit the pouch over the cushion, draw the cord tight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;tie or sew the cord ends together &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat 2-10 for both the seat and back cushions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your skill with draping and sewing this could create some weird puckers on the corners or hard to drape bits - especially if you have very stiff fabric.  Stretch fabric can be eased and stretched quite a bit, but I'm not sure how it will wear on something as hard working as the seat of a chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution would be redraping the fabric and re-sewing the casing until it looks the way you want it do, and possibly adding darts to the fabric to reduce the bunching up of odd areas.  How much fussing like this you do is linked to your standards for perfection vs. time expenditure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-12-24T17:11:48.333" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T17:11:48.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2370" CreationDate="2016-10-26T15:53:13.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made historic jackets from warmish climates, but nothing as puffy as what I think you're considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect you want to plan for the warmth you desire... I found a few sites when googling &quot;jacket filling&quot; that speak to the differences in temperature control that are provided by down vs. various types of synthetic fibers - so my first thought is to research modern jackets and see what level of warmth vs. weight vs. volume you want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/gear-geek/down-vs.-synthetic-whats-the-difference-between-down-and-synthetic-insulati&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/gear-geek/down-vs.-synthetic-whats-the-difference-between-down-and-synthetic-insulati&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sierratradingpost.com/lp2/down-vs-synthetic-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sierratradingpost.com/lp2/down-vs-synthetic-guide/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I found that I could find some links to some of those options...for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/80-20-loose-down-feather-filling-3-lb-.htm?gclid=CO6_28Ho-M8CFY1ahgoduzID6A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/80-20-loose-down-feather-filling-3-lb-.htm?gclid=CO6_28Ho-M8CFY1ahgoduzID6A&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/kapok-fill-5-lb-.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/kapok-fill-5-lb-.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had less luck getting traction on the brands of synthetic filling, googling for thinsulate filling for example, only got me stuff that has thinsulate in it, rather than access to a place that would ship a bunch of thinsulate in non-clothing form.  I didn't try an exhaustive search though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T15:53:13.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2377" CreationDate="2016-10-26T16:00:25.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could get &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004RJ7TZY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a science toy cardboard telescope kit&lt;/a&gt; and decorate it to suit your pirate theme.  It would actually work then, but more importantly for you the tubes are sized just right to slide.  I've got something very similar which was part of a bigger kit and so effectively cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd use a pale wood-brown paint with darker varnish for the grain, and brass effect paint for rings at the end of the sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T16:00:25.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2385" CreationDate="2016-10-27T01:02:58.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to expand on &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/users/1026/emrobeau&quot;&gt;EmRoBeau's answer&lt;/a&gt; a little. Acrylic cement is the common product used when trying to merge pieces of acrylic together. It is important to note that while it is commonly referred to as a glue it does not function as one. It is actually a solvent that fuses or welds the plastics components together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; important that your pieces lie together and flat with no seems or gaps. This could also be called perfectly mated. Acrylic cement only makes a strong bond when there is no space between the merged acrylic and the actual fluid. Since you are not joining on edges since, in theory, should be of less concern as the sheets should be manufactured flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would caution that you try this on progressively larger pieces though. If an incorrect amount of fluid is used it will make for a poor weld and the project would be potentially ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good primer video would be one from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6Ow_cBTps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tap Plastics&lt;/a&gt;. While it does promote a product there is more useful information beyond that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6Ow_cBTps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/hT6Ow_cBTps/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Introduction to acrylic cement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the product you are working with is a chemical solvent use the proper protection measures as described on the labeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T01:02:58.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="546" CreationDate="2016-10-27T13:03:15.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a teabag to about 1/2 cup hot water and wait a few minutes for the water           to darken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a paintbrush, paint the paper with the tea&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry the paper using a blow drier. This way you can blow the tea around a     bit which makes the paper look more &amp;quot;naturally&amp;quot; aged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may choose to do another coat of tea if you are wanting to darken the color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the look you are going for gently burn the edges with a lighter. Blowing the flame out resulted in the best effect. But just in case have a wet cloth (with excess water squeezed out) on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once completely dry, the paper is ready to write/draw on just like normal paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tips:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When burning the edges, holding the paper at different angles to slightly smoke stain it also helps complete the look. (Of course be careful you don't set the entire piece of paper on fire.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find burning most of the edges but leaving some parts not burnt looked quite good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1135" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T12:05:02.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2370" CreationDate="2016-10-27T13:12:22.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polyfil. If you want puffy filling, go with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joann.com/32oz-poly-fil-premium-polyester-fiberfill/7400203.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;polyfil.&lt;/a&gt; You've already used it; it's a great filling for a puffy jacket. Since you're using a bomber jacket pattern (by the way - the picture makes it look more like a letterman than a bomber?) typically there would be some degree of 'puff' to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My grandfather's bomber jacket - an actual bomber jacket, he was a WWII pilot - uses wool. It's also an excellent option, but not quite as easily obtainable. If you have access to a fabric store, there'll be a wealth of options there - but for ease of use, there's nothing wrong with polyfil. Unless that's too puffy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T13:12:22.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2394" CreationDate="2016-10-27T14:27:34.673" Score="3" ViewCount="13390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I frequently make cards for my friends and family instead of purchasing them, which I very much enjoy, but the bane of my existence is gluing all the pieces together. It is always a struggle to decide which glue to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; in this context, thin paper means sketching or drawing paper, construction paper and tissue paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A synopsis of my glue usage:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue sticks leave awkward bumps unless they go on perfectly smooth (which they never do) and they eventually dry up ad stop adhering, so I don't really like using them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic white craft glue is what I use the most often and I spread it thin with a popsicle stick to eliminate big soggy patches. This works really well for thicker paper like cardstock, but cannot be used for anything lighter weight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray glue is something I love in concept, but hate in actual applications. I find that spraying for even a second longer than you should causes the glue to soak through the paper so both sides end up super sticky... which sucks. And there is a lot of prep work (laying down newspaper or standing outside in the  cold)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot glue does not work well when making cards because the card gets too lumpy and thick, so they don't fit well inside envelopes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a glue that is best suited for thin paper so that it does not get soggy or lumpy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T19:51:23.237" Title="Which glue should be used for adhering thin paper?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2393" CreationDate="2016-10-27T15:42:14.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest it sounds like you might be being a bit heavy handed with all of the adhesives you mention it is often the case with adhesives that less is more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White glue : you will get the most control if you apply it with a brush, if you just squirt it onto the paper and then spread it around it will soak though. You could try getting some cheap nylon brushes (the flat type are best) and use the glue from a small pot rather then direct from the tube and keep a piece of scrap card to make a few strokes with the brush onto to make sure that the glue is evenly distributed on the brush and take off any excess. You only need a really thin film to get a good joint, ideally it should be thin enough to look  transparent rather than white. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray Mount : again you only need a very light mist for it to work, try spraying from further away and just use one quick pass over the paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is double sided tape, this tends to be a very neat and clean solution although there is a bit more effort involved in cutting it to the right shape. Usually the best approach for complex shapes is to apply it to what you want to stick before you cut it out so you cut the cutout and the tape at the same time (obviously leave the backing on the reverse side while you do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T15:42:14.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2400" CreationDate="2016-10-27T17:17:16.340" Score="1" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;What sorts of paint are suitable to apply to kids' faces and hands, for events such as carnival or just for classroom use to play games - obviously non-toxic stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:12:33.583" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T02:12:33.583" Title="Paint for kids' skin: what is suitable?" Tags="|paint|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-27T20:29:54.513" Score="2" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to the store to get a couple packs of party horns for a Bible story in Sunday school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ImHPs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ImHPs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I did not realize that they were actually party blowers that did not make any noise until I got home, which is not as entertaining for the kids and is irrelevant to the story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to modify these to make noise? I know they are really cheap, but I'm the kind of guy that will sand cast and weld jewelry before going to James Avery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1137" LastEditorUserId="1137" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T20:45:41.263" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T19:40:24.690" Title="Party Blowers to Noisemakers?" Tags="|plastic|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2377" CreationDate="2016-10-27T20:55:28.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think paper towel rolls are your best option. Though, you can use straight cardboard to replace the paper towel inerards if you can't wait for them to be used and thrown out. With the roll, start out with the original diameter and use a small ring cut out to fit around the external edge of the front, and internal edge on the back, use another roll and cut down the side so it will fit inside the other; do the same thing with the ends as the prior. Repeat this 3 or 4 times. You should end up with something like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLUBt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLUBt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make a paper towel roll substitute by crimping the length of one side of a straight cardboard piece until it is round enough. It would also be stronger then a normal roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1137" LastEditorUserId="1137" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T06:38:36.023" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T06:38:36.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-28T03:28:31.947" Score="8" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a maker/craft project making a kaleidoscope out of three mirrors and a badminton shuttlecock tube (sawn in half).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be a project for a class of school kids aged 8-12, so we'll have to teach them to make the item by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is hot glue (handled by teachers only) the best way to secure the glass triangle inside the tube, or is there a better, long-lasting secure way to fix it in place without risk of dropping out from the tube after several months? Kids safety in mind here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3x mirrors measuring 2in x 6in each&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sawn shuttlecock tube length is just under 8 inches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XxjpJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XxjpJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1139" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T20:22:28.750" Title="How to fix glass kaleidoscope inside cardboard tube" Tags="|adhesives|glass|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2395" CreationDate="2016-10-28T13:06:41.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy non-toxic &quot;face paints&quot; or &quot;body paints&quot; specifically made for this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product Search: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#tbm=shop&amp;amp;q=face+paint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Face Paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make them yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Face paints (typically) are not a &quot;type of paint&quot; per se, but a mixture of food coloring or other non-toxic dye mixed with a base material to give it opacity. A lot of costume makers, face and body painters mix this up on their own with a combination of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Food coloring or non-toxic dye (for color)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clay, corn starch, or arrowroot (for thickness and opacity)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Face lotion, vegetable oil or shortening, or zinc cream (diaper cream)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many recipes for face paint on the Internet based on what ingredients you have on hand and how effective/durable you need it to be, but I hesitate to list one here for having not tried any of them myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=homemade+OR+diy+face+paint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DIY or Homemade Face Paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastEditorUserId="2" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T13:31:13.770" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T13:31:13.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-28T21:19:11.693" Score="4" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create some stamps or dies that kind of look like cookie cutters. I intend on cutting mostly layers of cloth, felt, and maybe a single layer of leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any one know of a good process to make these dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Ace" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T15:30:08.783" Title="Metal Dies for Cloth or Leather" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2407" CreationDate="2016-10-29T02:21:40.193" Score="8" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm binding a sketch book as a birthday present. This is my first experience in book-binding. I've bought 16 A4 sheets of 160g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; black paper and I wonder how big should be one signature of sheets. I was planning to bind four pages in one, so the book will consist of 4 signatures of 4 sheets each, but they may be too thick to be folded after binding in such bundles. So should I do 8 signatures of 2 sheets instead? Or maybe I just have to fold or bind them a bit differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1142" LastEditorUserId="1142" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T02:37:01.417" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T09:08:41.573" Title="How many two-page spreads (160gsm A4 paper) should be bound together in one signature?" Tags="|paper|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2401" CreationDate="2016-10-29T15:28:16.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are talking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_(manufacturing)#Steel-rule_die&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;steel rule dies&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These use a flexible or semi-flexible strip of steel sharpened along one edge. This is embedded in a backing (sometimess fibre/particle board) usually sitting in a thin profile-cut slot which supports the steel cutting edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy the prepared steel stock and make the dies yourself and there are also manufacturers who will make custom dies to your specification and they are relatively inexpnsive, at least by the standard of dies in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are quite well suited to cutting resonably soft materials like paper, leather, and textiles. They work best when used with some sort of press. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made these myself in the past with some success when used with an arbour press. I cut the profile out of MDF with a fine coping saw and used thin shim stock to make the blades. This isn't quite as hard as the proper die stock but will just about work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T15:30:08.783" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T15:30:08.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2408" CreationDate="2016-10-28T06:45:27.360" Score="9" ViewCount="2650" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is not only about using both hands simultaneously, it's about being able to use either of your hands in general. By practical, I mean advantages and disadvantages in terms of drawing. In other words I'm not talking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://cogsci.stackexchange.com/a/4528&quot;&gt;cut of aggression level&lt;/a&gt; etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've started learning to draw recently using &lt;a href=&quot;http://drawabox.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Draw a Box&lt;/a&gt; lessons and wondering whether I should do the offered exercises with both hands or just focus on my dominant hand. I read somewhere that some professional painters use their non-dominant hand for less skill demanding tasks, so their dominant hand gets less worn out or tired. Others say that they learn to use their non-dominant hand so they can use it for work in case they injure their dominant one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1144" OwnerDisplayName="Leonid Vasilyev" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:56:17.260" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T20:23:33.980" Title="What are practical advantages and disadvantages of learning to use both hands to draw?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2405" CreationDate="2016-10-28T07:54:31.750" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;well it depends on what hands are you comfortable using.&#xA;sometime it may be awkward to use left hand to draw.but it also has a advantage when it comes to draw curves.&#xA;well main catch is if you are not used to drawing with left hand you cannot learn now and draw...&#xA;well try it ...cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Harshith" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T07:54:31.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2402" CreationDate="2016-10-31T09:08:41.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Normal&quot; signatures are often 4 pages, but with 160grams paper, I prefer signatures of 2 since it makes the book lay more flat. It also helps to make a very sharp fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T09:08:41.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2405" CreationDate="2016-10-31T13:09:11.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already identified the fact that being equally proficient with both hands gives you some redundancy in case of injury although there are plenty of other potential injuries or illnesses which could hamper you working so I'm not sure that is a very compelling reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a better reason is that it potentially offers more versatility in your technique and there may well be circumstances where working right to left as opposed to left to right is an advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly trying to draw with both hands my free up your technique a bit and help you develop more of a personal and expressive style as well as forcing you to focus more on the subject and less on the mechanical process of reproducing an image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-12-03T23:56:21.123" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T23:56:21.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2370" CreationDate="2016-10-31T15:34:34.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;After asking around, I had suggestions for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poly fill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flannel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poly fill and down seem suitable for &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Yv5l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very puffy jackets&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jcrew.com/girls_category/jacketsouterwear/puffer/PRDOVR%7EA9091/A9091.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;), but didn't fit my vision of this particular one - might be &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; puffy, plus the lining would have to be more complicated to keep it distributed evenly. Flannel and wool would be warm, but they have no fluff at all, and I thought they might make the jacket feel too heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves batting, which has both desired properties: fluffy, and can be easily quilted to only the lining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The particular material I got was Soft n Crafty 80/20 batting, which is advertised as: &lt;strong&gt;low-loft&lt;/strong&gt;, with a &lt;strong&gt;soft drape&lt;/strong&gt;, and specifically mentions &lt;strong&gt;garments&lt;/strong&gt; as an application! It's just a little puffy, and not as heavy as wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally came across this in a store, so it was sheer luck to find exactly what I was looking for. Now that I know what it is, the key words appear to be &amp;quot;low loft&amp;quot; or even &amp;quot;ultra low loft&amp;quot; - searching on this gives me more product results, as well as some posts about sewing with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-28T06:29:57.317" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T06:29:57.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-02T01:55:54.600" Score="5" ViewCount="11024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to paint a white pumpkin, and I'm having some issues with applying the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using acrylic paint, craft-grade not art-grade, and applying it with brushes. I clean the surface off, first, but nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is that the paint applies too thinly, because it would rather stick to the brush than the pumpkin. When applying additional layers, if they aren't sufficiently wet/heavy then the initial layer occasionally rubs off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for my principal work area I laid down a couple coats of white. This had the unfortunate side-effect of covering up my sketch/under drawing, and it still doesn't resolve the rubbing away issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T22:00:50.863" Title="How can I prep a pumpkin for painting?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|pumpkin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2016-11-02T02:55:56.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic paint is soluble in water and pumpkins have a lot of water in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a paint primer that is water resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint primer is an intermediary paint that coats a surface and once dry it allows another paint to be painted overtop of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case I would try an epoxy primer to coat the surface of the pumpkin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy primers are water resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before applying your acrylic paint you need to first coat the dried expoxy primer with a sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the epoxy primer is sealed you can then apply your acrylic paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T02:55:56.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2405" CreationDate="2016-11-02T11:42:25.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I meet with a small group once a month to &quot;do art&quot;. Each month one of us is in charge of the lesson. We just did pencil sketches using our dominant and then non dominant hand. We were all amazed- everyone liked the non dominant drawings better. You are more detail oriented and try to draw to perfection w your dominant hand. The non dominant  drawings were looser and more free. It is considered a good practice to do to increase your awareness to detail, your drawing skills and good for your brain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1159" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T11:42:25.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2136" CreationDate="2016-11-05T04:19:45.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gloves mentioned in the comments are typically fingerless. Here's an example of some specifically designed for yarn-crafters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lionbrand.com/lion-brand-yarn-stress-relief-gloves.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lionbrand.com/lion-brand-yarn-stress-relief-gloves.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1180" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T04:19:45.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2016-11-05T04:31:54.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use knife grip for most stitches, but for a few, such as crab stitch (reverse single crochet), the pen grip works much better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1180" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T04:31:54.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2016-11-05T15:02:18.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to John's answer, there are some options in the art supply world. In particular, Qor makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.qorcolors.com/groundsapp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;watercolor ground&lt;/a&gt; that is good for watercolor, inks, and acrylics. The idea is similar to gesso and provides a base for painting on surfaces not otherwise usable for water-based media.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T15:02:18.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-07T14:19:17.393" Score="6" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I make rose scented incense from unscented &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myrrh&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;myrrh&lt;/a&gt; resin drops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some of natural scented myrrh resin drops and would like to be able to be able to give it a rose scent when using it for incense. I do have a mortar and pestle at my disposal, as well as various sizes of mason jars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking that perhaps I could somehow use the myrrh grains in mason jars and then putting in either rose scented &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;perfume&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essential_oil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;essential oil&lt;/a&gt; to impregnate the grains to take on the scent of roses. Do I need to use a carrier oil (like olive oil) for the perfume or essential oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience in doing this at all, so any suggestions on what to do would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T04:03:05.467" Title="How can I make rose scented myrrh incense?" Tags="|incense|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2445" CreationDate="2016-11-07T17:28:23.293" Score="9" ViewCount="4133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting started with an airbrush and I plan to spend some time practicing basic techniques (dots, straight lines, curves, etc.) using cheap acrylic paints which I will dilute down to airbrush paint consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually plan to use my (yet to be developed) airbrush skills on smooth non-porous surfaces like metal and hard plastic.   At that time, I will move up to real airbrush paints, but I hope to have developed comfortable control of the brush before then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question: What cheap paper types are appropriate for beginner-level airbrush practice?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that &quot;low-absorption&quot; and &quot;extremely smooth&quot; are traits which I should be looking for, but beyond that, I don't have a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if there are non-paper mediums that would serve better, (I am currently using those red-plastic disposable plates)... please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T01:28:14.410" Title="What kind of paper to use for airbrush practice?" Tags="|paper|medium-selection|airbrush|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2342" CreationDate="2016-11-08T00:28:16.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not done any sort of serious scratch-board art, but here are some suggestions, to answer your two part question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use black colored pencil instead of regular pencil.&lt;/strong&gt;— it isn't as reflective as regular pencil, so you will just barely be able to see it while you're working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint over the nicks/stray pencil marks&lt;/strong&gt;— If you paint over the scratches and stray pencil marks with ink, it will probably cover it up and not show.  You should try this on a scrap piece of paper first, to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T00:28:16.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-08T14:38:53.913" Score="7" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if its possible to do a photo transfer (using a laser printed photo) to wood without mod podge or using something cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to do some transfers for my cub scout den but it would require a lot of mod podge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1190" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T11:40:24.520" Title="Photo transfer on wood" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2425" CreationDate="2016-11-08T14:55:29.903" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If cost control is important to you, and if you have access to an ink-jet printer instead of a laser, then you might want to try using the left over wax backing sheets from standard printable mailing labels like Avery 5160.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ink jet ink doesn't dry as quickly as normal on the waxed paper, so right after printing, you can flip the paper over and press it against any flat surface.  The still wet ink will quickly leave the wax and settle upon whatever you have pressed it to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a little practice to learn to apply it without smudging, but I've used the technique multiple times and have gotten some excellent (and a few horrible) results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woodenpalletprojects.com/6-ways-how-to-transfer-photos-to-wood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a link to a more detailed description of this technique, along with a few others on WoodenPalletProjects.com.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T22:08:06.843" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T22:08:06.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2425" CreationDate="2016-11-09T16:58:24.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a technique called &quot;toner transfer&quot; for making printed circuit board masks on copper. It should work onto wood as well.  There are a few versions so you should google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did was take &lt;em&gt;inkjet&lt;/em&gt; photo paper, and mirror image print with a &lt;em&gt;laser&lt;/em&gt; printer.  Then flip onto the desired substrate and iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest testing with offcuts and cheap photo paper.  As I've seen photo paper for £1 (probably $1/€1 as well) then if you've already got the printer and some scrap wood it won't cost much at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T16:58:24.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2309" CreationDate="2016-11-10T13:57:07.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004LOHW6G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;foam sheets&lt;/a&gt; to design each layer of your block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw your original design on a foam sheet and then cut it out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use that cutout as a template to draw your design on a second foam sheet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modify that second drawing as needed for the new color layer, then cut it out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 2 and 3 until all your layers are cut out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you encounter a design error at any layer, redo that layer to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all of the layers are working the way you want, you can either transcribe your effort onto the wooden block, or just use the foam cutouts as your stamps instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T13:57:07.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2422" CreationDate="2016-11-11T21:38:51.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new in the hobby and newer with my airbrush, sometimes I use plastic bottles and aluminium cans. I try draw to draw the patterns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-11-12T16:18:37.977" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T16:18:37.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2118" CreationDate="2016-11-13T10:45:00.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pattern tracing (or roulette spacing) wheel. Every sewing box that I ever inherited from lil old lady seamstresses had one. It's a wooden handle with a spinning gear type mechanism at the tip. Never used it for sewing but it makes perfectly perforated lines. Well, I guess not as perfect as the ones on stamps and such but close, especially seeing as they are less than a few dollars. I see that there's expensive machines that do it for you. Try the sewing store first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1216" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-11-14T04:25:34.827" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T04:25:34.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2016-11-13T18:37:10.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using a sewing needle or dressmaker's pin, repeatedly pricking the paper along the circumference of the circle. That would effectively result in a very closely perforated circle. Then lightly press against the circle using some other blunt-tipped tool, and it should eventually pop out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1219" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-11-16T03:20:57.037" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T03:20:57.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2342" CreationDate="2016-11-14T18:34:49.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest to draw your sketch on a different sheet of paper, something rather thin and inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you can use carbon paper to transfer your drawing to the scratchboard paper. Carbon paper is paper with a layer of carbon, this side is placed on top of the scratch board, the carbon side facing down. Now, lay your sketch on top of that. Trace the lines of your design with a pencil or even a ballpoint pen that doesn't write anymore. The design is now visible on your scratchboard in carbon lines, so you only get the lines that you will scratch away anyways.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(If you've placed the carbon paper upside down, then you get your design at the back side of your original sketch. :-) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This YouTube video shows someone using this technique to transfer a design to wood, but it still applies to scratchboard (or any number of surfaces): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYDsvkPkHl8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Transferring Graphics to Wood or Furniture - Part 3 - Carbon Paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T18:37:58.547" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T18:37:58.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-15T11:35:24.607" Score="5" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a bag for a 3D printer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The 3D printer is at least 10KG if not more so it has to be very strong fabric that won't rip apart under stress.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ideally abrasion resistant. Take some beating as the aluminum used on the printer has sharp edges&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Completely and fully water proof&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Easily machinable on your average consumer £100 sewing machine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1230" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T13:52:02.720" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T16:52:26.560" Title="Robust fabric for making a bag for a 3d printer" Tags="|material-selection|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2437" CreationDate="2016-11-15T14:11:35.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need to combine different materials to get all the qualities you're looking for. Here are some ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Canvas&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;denim&lt;/strong&gt; are strong, abrasion-resistant fabrics. Another option is &lt;strong&gt;ripstop nylon&lt;/strong&gt;, which is manufactured to be strong, lightweight, and resist rips and tears. The weight of your fabric will determine how strong it is. For additional strength, make sure to reinforce your seams (and again at stress points).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For protection from sharp edges, consider a quilted lining, or leather (pleather, vinyl) sewn in corners or other stress points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can waterproof canvas-like fabrics by &lt;strong&gt;waxing&lt;/strong&gt;, or buy already waxed canvas. You can also buy commercial &lt;strong&gt;waterproofing spray&lt;/strong&gt;, typically sold in outdoor stores. Even with waterproof fabrics, you'll need to seal the seams after sewing to make sure it is fully waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other waterproof fabrics include &lt;strong&gt;oilcloth&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;laminated cotton&lt;/strong&gt;, but these are probably not sturdy enough on their own to carry a heavy device. Instead, you could consider sewing an inner case out of the sturdy fabric, and an outer waterproof case out of the oilcloth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could consider vinyl / PVC for this as well (personally, I think it'd be difficult to get a good seal on the corners, but I've never sewn with it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ripstop nylon is generally at least water-&lt;em&gt;resistant&lt;/em&gt;; check the particular brand to be sure and spray where necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All of these materials are sewable on your standard machine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure to use a sharp, appropriately sized needle, and don't sew too fast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Denim and canvas will be fine as long as you don't sew too many layers at once&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same for &lt;em&gt;garment-weight&lt;/em&gt; leather (although small bits would be easy enough to do by hand if you're worried)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oilcloth, laminated cotton, and nylon tend to &quot;stick&quot;, so it's recommended to use a teflon foot. You can also place a piece of tissue paper underneath the fabric if it is sticking to the feed dogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After researching these options, I would probably try ripstop nylon, leather-like corner reinforcements, and waterproofing spray. Camping forums (&quot;make your own gear&quot;) are good sources of info and product recommendations for ripstop nylon, as it is often used in camping gear and hammocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2016-11-17T16:52:26.560" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T16:52:26.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2260" CreationDate="2016-11-16T19:33:25.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For certain corrugations which are &quot;rolled&quot; in order to get an object with rotational symmetry, you can overlap the two edges of the paper and have the model keep its shape. However, I doubt this would work with the magic ball since it's an action model. Its point is to be squishable and just arranging the layers one over the other prevents this in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squishing introduces a lot of tension which just arranging two corrugated edges above each other can not withstand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overlapping multiple layers introduces some asymmetry: if you overlap just a single row of the corrugation, you create a stripe which has two layers of paper while other places have just one. This will cause any deformation to not be laid out equally over the whole model, and this will not only look bad but also locally increase the tension which makes the model come apart. Using more rows than just one in order to make a stronger lock only increases this effect. Perhaps if you use a sheet twice as wide as the original in order to get exactly two layers of paper over the whole surface, it might be enough to withstand some squishing, but the layers would come apart along the free edge anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if there is a long free edge, this technique might work for static models, but not for a squishy ball. So, the only way forward would be to get rid of the long free edge. Imagine we were not folding a corrugation but just forming a cylinder out of the sheet and wanted it to stay in one piece. You might try to make pleats around the perimeter of the cylinder so that there are many short spans of free edge instead of one long span. The wall of your cylinder would then look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    |&#xA;  ^ |&#xA;  |||&#xA;  |V&#xA;^ |&#xA;|||&#xA;|V&#xA;|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joining two edges when the walls have such pleats would probably work. Now imagine treating this pleated paper as if it were a plain sheet and folding the corrugation on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried this in practice but it might work.I am, however, afraid, that in practice these extra layers would change the behavior of the structure, and in practice you would still get noticeable artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T19:33:25.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-17T00:41:35.163" Score="17" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make pretend coins out of sand, so that they are solid enough say, to hold it by the edge and it not bend, but brittle with so that if I crushed it in my hand it'd crumble back into sand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the minute I'm trying to do this by mixing various consistencies of pva glue and sand, and am getting close but it's just not as brittle or as solid as I'd like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd like it to be in similar consistency to say that of a cracker or ryvita - which I would use for this project except that after it is crushed it should appear as close to sand as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some extra details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using sand bought for arts and crafts that I bought on eBay, so the sand is very fine. As for ratios / consistencies, I've tried with PVA glue and rubber cement (seperately) with 2:1, 1:1 and 1:2 ratios with the sand (roughly). Too little PVA and the sand doesn't stick, too much and it becomes a bit 'floppy'. I didn't know if there was a different type of glue I should try, or with a mixture of something else. I've also tried with kinetic sand, but that doesn't break as well as normal sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My most recent attempt I used a lot of PVA glue to sand, which worked but was slightly floppy - however I then coated it in metallic spray paint which seems to have made it hold together solidly. I haven't tried crushing it yet to see if thats even possible, but could the spray paint on its own potentially be a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1238" LastEditorUserId="1238" LastEditDate="2016-11-17T11:46:37.660" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T00:30:19.230" Title="Making thin brittle sand design that holds together" Tags="|adhesives|costume-design|props|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2441" CreationDate="2016-11-17T18:07:28.300" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fascinating project. The solution was right in your question; make it like a cracker &amp;mdash; &lt;strong&gt;flour.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're essentially making a sturdy paste instead of a glue. I mixed: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 parts sand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 part all-purpose or bread flour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water, just enough to wet the sand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drained off any excess water, packed it into a mold and let it dry in the sun (1-2 hours?). I guessed at the proportions empirically, but it worked great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/re9t0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;The disc to the right is a failed experiment with cornstarch&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coin was pretty solid&amp;hellip; yet &lt;em&gt;breakable.&lt;/em&gt; I could carry it around and drop it from a few feet without breaking it, yet I could snap the disc with a bit of deliberate force, and crush it down into sand by pounding it or working it between my fingers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;hellip;after it is crushed it should appear as close to sand as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus that you're not adding anything permanent or inorganic to the sand. I could not &lt;em&gt;see&lt;/em&gt; any flour when I crushed the coins back into sand, and dropping it into a cup of water broke it down completely (which makes it easy to pour off the flour-silt, if that's important to you). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastEditorUserId="2" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T00:30:19.230" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T00:30:19.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2820" CreationDate="2016-11-19T10:07:06.073" Score="9" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYrBa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYrBa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Potential firepot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; I have bought a cast iron grill or furnace and saw the top part had a nice shape for a possible firepot. The bodywork under the pan and grill is entirely hollow and looks like a pot. The hollow bodywork could help construct a tuyere inside. For airflow I have created a separate system that outputs an adjustable airflow through a 3.5 inch tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how feasible this is in terms of efficiency, as I am worried this will be as effective as a brake drum forge, which I don't find a good choice. The top bowl and grill can also be removed separately. Would it be possible to construct an efficient firepot with this or is it just not the right design or shape? If it's not the right choice, would that mean this is completely unusable as blacksmithing implement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1249" LastEditorUserId="1249" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T17:13:29.593" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T12:16:42.540" Title="Can I turn this cast iron grill into a usable firepot with possible tuyere?" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2068" CreationDate="2016-11-21T16:56:40.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a not very used crochet style called &quot;camel crochet&quot; that does look quite a bit like knitting.  Maybe that would be something that would work well for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1254" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T16:56:40.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2422" CreationDate="2016-11-21T17:40:56.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paper you are looking for is &quot;Bond&quot; which has a smooth plate surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use Hard Press or Hot Press water color paper but that will be more absorbent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T17:40:56.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2016-11-21T17:55:28.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically the problem you are facing is that the pumpkin surface is glossy and non-porous. There is nothing for your paint to adhere to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try lightly sanding the areas you are going to paint with a fairly fine sandpaper. That will add 'tooth' to the surface, like the roughness of paper, that will hold the paint. Then you may be able to skip having to apply any ground at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T22:00:50.863" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T22:00:50.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-23T00:34:19.107" Score="6" ViewCount="7367" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I apply diamond dust to a canvas or photo?   I've searched the web but can't find any information about it. I've used photo spray glue but it's too sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1261" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T20:35:52.030" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T14:48:18.470" Title="How to apply diamond dust to a canvas?" Tags="|paper|adhesives|diamond-dust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2448" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-11-23T19:51:28.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Incense is a biological material that releases a fragrant aroma when burned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incense is composed of aromatic plant materials, often enhanced with essential oils that can be used for aromatherapy or mood alteration depending on the combination chosen. The most common form of incense is direct-burning, which requires that the incense be lit directly by a flame and then fanned or blown out, leaving behind a smouldering ember that releases the material's fragrance into the air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1264" LastEditorUserId="1264" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T00:08:45.033" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T00:08:45.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2449" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-11-23T19:51:28.080" Score="0" Body="Incense is a biological material that releases a fragrant or aromatic aroma when burned. " OwnerUserId="1264" LastEditorUserId="1264" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T00:08:31.653" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T00:08:31.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2451" CreationDate="2016-11-25T03:56:56.277" Score="8" ViewCount="538" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the pitcher plant drawing &lt;a href=&quot;http://drawabox.com/lesson/3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, where they have actually drawn the wireframe first (see image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will I gain by drawing the wireframe first? Why not draw the outer lines directly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJJ9A.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJJ9A.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T09:21:23.433" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T08:06:19.743" Title="To draw anything, is it necessary to draw its wireframe first?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2450" CreationDate="2016-11-25T08:36:05.560" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for drawing wire frames, or any construction method, is to properly develop the forms of the object. By laying out the underlying structure, you can get a better sense of volume, proportions and arrangement of the 3D object you're trying to map into a 2D art form. This lets you get the foundation ready before laying down time-consuming details that may be hard to fix later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you focus first on the outline, you might recognize the plant as a plant, but you'll lose out on the understanding of the curved blades that make the leaves, or the cylindrical shape of the pot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, if you start from the edges, the following mistakes become common: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect proportions, as the base layout wasn't developed first&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor impression of depth, since outer lines become over emphasized compared to spatial relationships &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much time spent on making the outline &quot;perfect&quot; leads to slow progression and hyper focus on small areas and not the larger image&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These problems can leave the drawing looking dimensionless and misshapen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, as you practice construction of real objects, you develop your natural understanding of how objects work. This allows you to become increasingly capable of constructing objects from imagination, or filling in blanks of objects you can't fully see. This is a skill that only comes about with practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there are methods of practice and application where you focus on drawing the outline. One exercise is &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/3rBbZDca-XA&quot;&gt;drawing the negative space&lt;/a&gt; around an object, effectively leaving you with a silhouette or outline. In such a case, you focus strongly on the relationship of angles and distances between empty spaces. Here, you're also training your eye to interpret 3D objects as 2D forms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also an essential skill. So to answer your question about whether it's always &lt;em&gt;necessary&lt;/em&gt; to draw the wireframe first, I would say no. Specifically, learning to draw negative space is highly valuable, and can be combined with your understanding of construction to make believable objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T08:36:05.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2457" CreationDate="2016-11-25T08:51:01.983" Score="6" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKaH2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKaH2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wireframe plant drawing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image of pitcher plant from &lt;a href=&quot;http://drawabox.com/lesson/3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;drawbox.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to learn how to visualize and draw wireframes like that for any object.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I searched Google with term &lt;em&gt;&quot;drawing wireframes&quot;&lt;/em&gt; but didn't get what I was looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What term should I search in Google to learn how to visualize and draw the kind of wireframe shown in that link?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T13:13:53.790" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T06:53:43.167" Title="What is the term for drawing wireframes which are drawn before drawing the actual object?" Tags="|drawing|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2452" CreationDate="2016-11-25T17:57:36.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are your &lt;strong&gt;construction lines&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be advised that this term is also used for 3D modeling, and you may need to filter CAD out of any web searches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can also be called &lt;strong&gt;guidelines&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When drawing figures, they're often called &lt;strong&gt;mannequins&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These terms can be a bit generic. What will help find tutorials or guides is a combination of &lt;code&gt;construction drawing&lt;/code&gt; + your art type, such as &lt;code&gt;figure&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;still life&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find success looking at contour lines, as another answer suggests, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=contour+lines+drawing&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;contour lines&lt;/a&gt; typically have a different connotation in drawing. Contours describe the &lt;em&gt;visible&lt;/em&gt; surface and outlines. They don't describe the wireframe/unseen surfaces as seen in the tutorial you mentioned. Just be wary in looking for contour drawings, as that will lead you to a different type of exercise/drawing technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T06:53:43.167" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T06:53:43.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2452" CreationDate="2016-11-25T21:21:00.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A book that gives great instructions for planning out guidelines and mannequins for drawings is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1560100842&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Preston Blair's book &quot;Cartoon Animation&quot;.&lt;/a&gt;  Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://desgraff.com/downloads/prestonblair.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a pdf&lt;/a&gt; of the whole book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His book is centered more around drawing in a traditional Disney 2D cartoonish style, but his ideas apply to all styles of figure drawing, really.  Here are some images to give you a sense of the frames instructed in that book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eli5k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eli5k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pRZ5O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pRZ5Om.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GsEKU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GsEKUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T15:22:41.297" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T15:22:41.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2459" CreationDate="2016-11-26T04:39:01.320" Score="7" ViewCount="4562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to start a cross stitch project soon using one of the online cross stitch pattern creators so that I can use an image of my choice instead of finding an existing pattern that I like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pattern creator wants me to fill in the white space with actual white stitches rather than leaving the spaces empty, which is what I usually see in cross stitch patterns. I'm guessing that it may be due to a failure in the pattern maker - it is programmed to fill in all spaces - but I wanted to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of filling in all of the white space, if any? Is it even standard practice ever or is it actually more common to leave the space white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that not filling it in will save me a ton of time but if there's a compelling reason to do it, I might consider it more seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2020-11-22T13:18:50.863" Title="Is it standard to fill in every cross stitch square or is it acceptable/preferable to leave some blank?" Tags="|cross-stitch|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2452" CreationDate="2016-11-26T16:54:03.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drawing in your link is a &lt;strong&gt;sketch&lt;/strong&gt; with &lt;strong&gt;contour lines&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;the circles that define the 3D quality of the drawing.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This style is often used in Product Design - so I suggest searching for &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Product Design sketching&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; or &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Industrial Design sketching&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;; There is a wealth of information in that field on this way of drawing. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T16:54:03.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2456" CreationDate="2016-11-26T23:21:21.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a cross-stitcher, my sister is, but the thing that would make me hesitate to not fill in the white is really tied to appearance in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The thread rises above the surface of the canvas and so not filling in where it is white will tend to create a &quot;bald&quot; appearance as a result of light, with apparent shadows. I've noticed this with partial works my sister has on the go.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sheen. Thread typically has a different sheen than the canvas material used as the base. With the light, as above, it's not going to look like the surrounding areas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the last comment I would make is to decide if time is really what's important here. I'm assuming it a bit, but I would hazard you're doing this to not only produced some nice works but to also enjoy and relax. If so, just enjoy and relax with the white thread too. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T23:21:21.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2456" CreationDate="2016-11-27T14:42:19.800" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the cross stich projects I've done did &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; fill in the background with a solid color. This is typical in embroidery -- the design itself is stitched in, and the base fabric is used as the background. Not only is this faster and simpler for the crafter, it helps the design stand out from the background both texturally and visually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L29AA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L29AA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1805 sampler by Catharine Ann Speel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sampler by Catharine Ann Speel, photo from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/65490.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Philadelphia Museum of Art&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception I can imagine to this is a pillow or other item that might be handled; if you want to have a smoother feel to the finished project, fill in every square (particularly since cross stich canvas is often quite stiff). Again, though, this isn't &lt;em&gt;necessary&lt;/em&gt; -- the two pillows I made that included a cross stitch pattern were much more for display than cuddling, and therefore the background was left unstitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T14:05:32.197" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T14:05:32.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-27T17:09:21.143" Score="6" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a bottle for acrylic gesso. I had enough practice with acrylics, now I want to switch to oil paint. Will the acrylic gesso work if I use it to prepare a board or a piece of wood? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1279" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T18:44:31.173" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T18:44:31.173" Title="Can you use acrylic gesso for oil paint?" Tags="|oil-paint|preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2016-11-27T18:43:04.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is yes, you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer is that there is a some uncertainty around using an acrylic gesso for oil, but it's clear that doing it right makes a real difference here. If you take the appropriate steps and properly prepare for oils, it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artistsnetwork.com/medium/acrylic/can-acrylic-gesso-support-your-oils&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Artist's Network&lt;/a&gt; has a really good article on the topic and the essentials really boil down getting the right level of tooth in the final result so as to maximize the ability of the oil to adhere to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T18:43:04.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-28T17:36:58.633" Score="8" ViewCount="2928" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldsewingear.com/blog/whats-so-great-about-a-slant-needle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slant-needle sewing machines&lt;/a&gt; used to be all the rage, and it's easy to see why: being able to see what you're sewing better is great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But nobody makes them anymore. Instead, most modern machines have a big chunky arm hanging right over your work area, forcing you to bend your neck down to see. Why is that? Were there problems with the slanted design? Which?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1282" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T12:39:10.243" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T03:01:05.457" Title="What happened to slant-needle sewing machines?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2465" CreationDate="2016-11-30T04:02:33.157" Score="8" ViewCount="4109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at building out a gouache palette and I came across the term &quot;split primary&quot; palette. What is that and why would I want to have that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T20:12:04.217" Title="What is a split primary palette?" Tags="|color|color-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2464" CreationDate="2016-11-30T06:24:45.930" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;A split primary color palette is a slight derivation of the artist primary color palette, which is composed of &lt;strong&gt;red, yellow and blue&lt;/strong&gt;. The &lt;em&gt;split&lt;/em&gt; comes from taking those three colors and splitting them into warm and cool versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drawingandpaintinglessons.com/Painting-Lessons/Split-Primary-Colors.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKM9Zm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click for source website&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in the example above, the palette is often visualized with strong lines splitting the primary colors. The rest of the palette is developed by mixing the colors that are in the same divisional section. The &amp;quot;formula&amp;quot; comes out to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Warm Yellow + Warm Red -&amp;gt; Orange Secondary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cool Yellow + Cool Blue -&amp;gt; Green Secondary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Warm Blue + Cool Red -&amp;gt; Purple Secondary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try mixing across these lines, such as Warm Red + Warm Blue, the pigment interaction can cause the colors to become washed out or muddy. The same is true with your Secondaries. Don't mix your Purple with your Cool Blue. Sticking to the formula above and only mixing colors in the same 1/3rd sections keeps colors looking bright and intense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example that shows how crossing the boundaries creates muddy colors (the center 3 colors):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.huevaluechroma.com/062.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhMiKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click for source website&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from more vibrant colors, this type of palette allows you to more easily mix a full spectrum of colors. This is in part because the &lt;strong&gt;Cool Blue, Cool Red, and Cool Yellow are closer in value to Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow&lt;/strong&gt;, the Subtractive Primaries (as seen in CMYK color standards). CMYK works better for mixing paint, because the paint gets its colors from pigment which &amp;quot;absorbs&amp;quot; light (and only reflects back the wavelength we perceive). The absorption is where the term subtractive comes into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a physics standpoint, when you mix colors across your splits, you're mixing pigments that end up absorbing more wavelengths, instead of just more of the same wavelengths. For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warm Red reflects back Red, which is Magenta + Yellow, meaning it absorbs Cyan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warm Blue reflects back something closer to Cyan, which means it absorbs Magenta + Yellow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you combine those two together you have a color that absorbs Cyan &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; Magenta &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; Yellow, which is why it leaves you with a muddy brown or black (depending on your paint). Here's a diagram I made that shows this a little more clearly by comparing it directly to CMYK:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yn6a9.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yn6a9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how the Cool Yellow and Cool Red mix to make something closer to Red? And then mixing that with the Cool Blue leads to brown (pretty dark here, but compare it to the black center in the CMY set).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional benefit to using this type of palette is that it helps train you to naturally understand how mixing RBY/CMY works as you practice, while helping you avoid those mixes that lead to dim, muddied colors. As a plus, it could also save you some money by avoiding wasted paint!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T18:08:27.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2464" CreationDate="2016-11-30T07:03:07.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A split primary palette is one that consists of two shades of each primary color: a &quot;warm&quot; one and a &quot;cool&quot; one. The idea is to produce mixtures that are less muddy by reducing contamination from the third primary color. For example, if you want to mix a green that doesn't tend towards brown, you choose a slightly-greenish blue and a slightly-greenish yellow, so that the mixture has very little red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, at least in my experience, no matter how carefully you choose your primary colors, a mixed green is never going to be as vibrant as an actual green pigment. Purple is marginally easier to mix, but you're still better off with a purple pigment. Orange is really the only color that can be mixed reliably. (Well, that and brown, but even with brown it can be hard to achieve just the right shade.) That said, for most people a split-primary palette is probably more cost-effective than a single-primaries-plus-single-secondaries one, because few people paint in only primaries and secondaries&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; -- you always want slightly-this or slightly-that shades. Yes, you also have black and white at your disposal, but that gets you pastels and mud, not the gradients you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1 I just came to the realization that I do indeed often paint in only primaries and secondaries. Heh. No wonder I've never bothered with a split-primary palette. :)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T07:03:07.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1923" CreationDate="2016-11-30T14:11:41.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TARp3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TARp3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Baker&amp;#39;s twine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; String from the baker, the kind they wrap around the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T14:11:41.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2469" CreationDate="2016-11-30T14:18:36.113" Score="9" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used the &quot;potholder&quot; method of making a quilt out of t-shirts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to cut the shirt (front and back) and batting at once into a square, then quilt the single square. Not sure whether to bind each square or not at this point. Then, once I have all the squares ready, I'd like to attach them into the big quilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please send some suggestions of how to connect them nicely.&#xA;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edited January 2019&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z5gBF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z5gBF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;potholder quilt begins &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is part one. Just wanted to share that it has been an interesting challenge. It’s double sided and has been fun to quilt and then bind each square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;I’m using a zigzag stitch on the black border to attach the squares. The plan is to do the build onto this four square using the Log Cabin technique.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: finished &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4UCVM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4UCVM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finished quilt &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And i can still add more rows!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2019-03-04T01:14:52.463" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T01:47:43.107" Title="Can I use the potholder quilting technique to make a quilt out of t-shirts?" Tags="|sewing|quilting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2016-11-30T14:48:04.160" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20161020232654/http://pamweeksquilts.com/1/post/2013/12/potholder-101.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;traditional &lt;strong&gt;potholder quilt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; would use pre-assembled blocks, with the block edges finished (won't fray) and then sewn together to assemble the quilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blocks can be finished in one of several ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;either with strips of fabric, or woven tape;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bringing the front fabric to the back and over-casting it to the backing;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;by using a knife edge finish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160702004245/http://quilterinmotion.net/quilt-as-you-go-is-not-a-new-technique/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quilter who has made a potholder quilt&lt;/a&gt; suggests first whipstitching on the back, and then finishing with a more decorative stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is whipstitched on the back connecting all four blocks.  Now it’s&#xA;time to do the decorative stitch.  I decided to do a feather stitch&#xA;with the machine, using a pale yellow thread to tie in with the&#xA;background color of the squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9xJZH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9xJZH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;potholder quilt blocks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a simpler, probably more modern version of a potholder quilt known as a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://so-sew-easy.com/how-to-make-a-rag-quilt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rag quilt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Individual same-size blocks are constructed as &amp;quot;sandwiches&amp;quot; (fabric on top and bottom, with batting in between), and then sewn together. The raw edges are left facing out on one side of the quilt, and snipped to encourage fraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works particularly well with flannel fabric, leaving a soft, fuzzy border around each block. I could picture it working with knit fabric like T-shirts, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/beh9v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/beh9v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of a rag quilt, with frayed edging between blocks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="5870" LastEditDate="2023-12-08T01:47:43.107" LastActivityDate="2023-12-08T01:47:43.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2534" CreationDate="2016-12-01T22:20:43.793" Score="7" ViewCount="5698" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that one should block 100% wool by soaking in hot water and reshaping to dry, which will felt the fibers enough to keep its shape. Acrylic, on the other hand, does not felt, so instead you steam-block it and/or &quot;kill&quot; the fibers (ever-so-slightly melt them together) by holding an iron at a distance, so that it does not &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; melt the yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I am knitting with a blend of wool and acrylic? Assume this is a wearable article that I would like to remain soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Steam blocking for wool is another method I've seen, but since this is done by placing the iron directly on a sheet/towel on the yarn, rather than holding it at a distance as for acrylic, I'm assuming that would not be a good idea for a blend.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sub-questions I have about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does the fiber content (say, 25% wool vs. 50/50 vs. 75% wool) affect what method(s) to use, and the result?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the acrylic method of steam blocking (from a distance) effective on wool?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there other blocking techniques that would work on both types?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T17:38:55.497" Title="How can I block acrylic / wool blend yarn?" Tags="|yarn|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2450" CreationDate="2016-12-03T22:51:21.113" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is not necessary.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can draw anything without any manual compositional planning whatsoever! However...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Freehand Drawing is &lt;em&gt;HARD&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can sit back comfortably, keeping your whole panel in view during the drawing process, have an excellent eye and a highly practiced hand, have a lot of talent and experience, and just a little luck, you can avoid mistakes. (Or at least cover up the little ones) This is not easy, requiring decades of practice to be done consistently. Thus, it is far more practical to first manually plan one's composition using guidelines, contour lines, line of action, perspective, and other forms of composition construction lines. It bypasses the demand of practicing freehand for 15+ years, allowing the artist to become technically competent within weeks of dedicated practice, ensuring consistent results. There are also really only two reasons to practice freehand drawing: performance art, and ink drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a final product, nobody can tell whether you drew it freehand or used guidelines to construct your composition. (Except for crazy art lovers, but many of those people actively &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to see traces of the construction in the finished work) As such, the only reason you would want to do freehand a drawing with dry media, is if someone is watching you draw it and you want to be committing every mark to a final product. Freehanding can be very impressive to watch, and can earn good tips. As such, it's pretty much only used by street artists, like caricaturists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, when working with ink, (and some other permanent media, like metalpoint) it can be detrimental to the finished product to use guidelines. Ink does not stick to graphite well. Colored inks will mix with charcoal. Anything between an ink and the paper can cause it to fail to bind correctly, and even make localized changes in bleed. Careless guidelining can damage the paper's tooth, affecting the appearance of the ink mark. Erasers ruin the altered surface. Some inks include a lacquer in their binder, which traps your guidelines and exposes them forever. If you're working in brushed ink, particularly in an eastern calligraphy tradition, the idea of guidelines goes against the very philosophy of the art form. There are ways around these issues, but they require intimate understanding of the physical properties of your media and paper, and result in serious restrictions on material selection. In these media, technical mastery depends on one learning to freehand with a permanent mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastEditorUserId="1309" LastEditDate="2016-12-03T22:57:59.810" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T22:57:59.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2016-12-03T23:09:44.183" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to cut a tiny hole using a knife:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This method requires a very steady hand and caution.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draw the hole.&lt;/strong&gt; You can use whatever technique you want. If you want to avoid people seeing marks, you can draw and cut the hole from the reverse side. I have also used a scoring tool instead, as this leaves no marks afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use the  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smallhousemodels.com/exactoknives/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;correct blade&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; I use blade 11 for exacto knives. You need something very fine and very sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perforate the outline.&lt;/strong&gt; Lining up the blade with the direction of the line, repeatedly puncture the outline. Work your way around the circumference, leaving a gap between each puncture which is smaller than the average length of each puncture. Go around a second time, this time puncturing the gaps between each mark, separating the interior from the exterior and completing the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T23:09:44.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2405" CreationDate="2016-12-03T23:27:36.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand fatigue is usually a pretty minor thing. Being ambidextrous won't prevent it either. Often, just shifting your grip regularly is enough to prevent it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most things which would prevent you from using one hand will affect both, like arthritis. Practicing such a difficult skill to have a backup seems excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ambidextrous artist can use whichever hand will produce a desired mark best. No matter what, there will be differences between the marks produced by each hand. Even if they were perfectly physically symmetrical, (which they never are) the very fact that they are mirrors of each other means certain directional marks will be easier to make with one hand or another. Our hands move in natural ways easiest. Having an opposite hand which can do the &quot;unnatural&quot; direction for the other would be a good thing. Also, because the two hands will have subtle structural differences, it is likely they would have their own unique marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ambidextrous artist can reach into their composition from any direction. Many mistakes come down to the artist's palm, wrist, or arm interfering with the work. Often, we cover our composition, partially blinding ourselves while we work. Sometimes, we smudge our work while we draw somewhere else on the page. An ambidextrous artist could always take the path which minimizes the negative effects of having arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ambidextrous artist could, if the page is fixed in place, use both hands to create combined marks that nobody else can make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T23:27:36.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2016-12-04T08:34:34.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In practice, there are two main approaches to drawing light with a permanent medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Negative Light.&lt;/strong&gt; This is most likely what you're trying to do, because the supplies are much more available. For dark scenes, this is the hard road. Here, you are starting from a white ground, typically the color of the paper. This means you want the whitest, brightest page you can find, as this gives you access to the widest range of contrast available. In negative light, you are drawing darkness. You are, layer by layer, blotting out the white of the page, and replacing it with variations, shades, tints, tones, and hues. Wherever you want more light, simply let more page through by touching that point less. If you want a light source to seem brighter, subtly and evenly darken everything around it. It's all about contrast. The light is negative space in this approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The negative light method demands, above all, restraint. The ability to look at your subject, (before you or in your mind) and color each point only to the darkness it must be. Going too far sucks the life out of the page, making the light harsh and stiff to the eye, while not going far enough leaves the projection faded and washed out, like some faint dream. The darker the scene becomes, the harder the work will be. To draw a true, void-like black, you'll need colored pencils which can easily layer or blend together. A true black makes a good base, and additional blended layers of a navy blue and a tonally equal brown will give it a sense of depth without adding any appreciable light. A second layer of true black over this blend will darken it further and blot out any remaining ground from the tooth which may have escaped your mark three times already. Because getting so dark in this method requires so much effort, it can be very difficult to remain sensitive to your light, making it easy to accidentally go too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Positive Light.&lt;/strong&gt; This is the shortcut, in an opaque permanent medium, to drawing very dark scenes. Note that this technique requires really strong, high-pigment, opaque colored pencils. Some wax pencils simply lack the opacity to do this. Start from a black ground, most likely black paper. If you work in a paper with a special tooth or weight, it can be hard to find this material. You may need to carefully dye a page black if you are dead-set on it. Start with the brightest opaque colored pencil relevant to the image, and work your way down to black from there. Having a very large palette is an asset here. The brightest color in each hue is your maximum upper limit for light in these works. Here, you are actively adding the light to the page, building the image from the reflections and refraction of your light sources. The darkness is negative space, it is truly the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method requires a very gentle touch, subtlety is key. This method allows one to very carefully sculpt shadows in the dimmest darkness, in ways which are only vaguely susceptible to the human eye. We often don't notice when we are in the dark, but we often do see far more than absolute darkness, it's just that our minds ignore and generalize most of it. Even if we don't think about what we see though, we still see it, and it still has subconscious value to us. This method gives the artist the easiest access to taking advantage of true expressive darkness through even the most delicate of marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T08:34:34.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2016-12-04T10:33:43.703" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Work in Layers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're already starting to learn this. You're talking about planning your composition. After envisioning your work, composition planning is the second step. The third step, and your first layer, is when you build your composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Planning a Composition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, you need to have some idea of what you want the finished picture to look like. Not the image on the page, but the picture as an object, page and all. If you're drawing from life, this is that thing artists are doing when they hold up their fingers in little 'L' shapes to draw a box in front of their vision and close one eye. They are manually flattening their subject and enclosing it in the boundaries of their composition. They are trying to look at the finished work before it has even begun. This lets them figure out what parts can be included or excluded in the finished work. (Ex: &quot;Maybe I like that storefront behind the lady, but including it would force me to pull back in perspective and include other ugly parts of the scene, so I can't use it... but when I zoom in, I don't get a full view of her dress and the bottom of the page cuts off at her belt...&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method, and this is used more predominantly in cartooning, design, and illustration, is to do preliminary sketches. Some people do miniature sketches called thumbnails, but this isn't necessary; work at whatever scale is comfortable to you. People tend to work smaller when planning because it takes less time and makes it easier to contain the whole image in the center of their vision all at once as they draw. (This is advantageous; most of the time, when working on a finished piece, you are only really able to look at &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; parts of the composition, while the rest is in periphery or covered by your sleeve.) In your sketches, focus on arranging the information clearly within the confines of your page. It doesn't need to look like a finished work. It doesn't even need to be recognizable or understandable to anyone but you. This isn't being made for anyone else. You are the audience for your own prep work: make it work for you. The most important thing though, is that your sketches be of a format in proportion to that of your finished work. (If your planning is done in squares and your finished work is a rectangle, your planning won't have done you much good.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For imaginary subjects, in addition to planning the overall composition, you may need to do a lot of preliminary design work. Understanding how your subject is built in a physical way, even if it is not a real thing, goes a long way toward being able to describe it clearly within a composition. Importantly, you need to understand its proportions in perspective. Design is a whole other field of study though, you could take a whole year-long drawing course learning just about that and still have more to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Constructing a Composition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collectively, the tools we use to build our composition on the page are called construction lines. Some older American artists call them plan lines. There's a wide variety of construction lines, but they all do the same thing: tell you where to draw. And that's key, because composition construction has very little to do with &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; you are drawing, so much as &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; you will draw it. When drawing construction marks you need to be sure that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They can be removed or covered up in the finished work without meaningful impact.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The marking and removal process will not alter the media. That means it should not damage the tooth of the paper or prevent your medium from adhering to the paper. This is why it is not advised to plan charcoal, pastel, or chalk drawings with graphite: basically nothing sticks to graphite except more graphite.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can see the marks, even as the piece progresses to much more finished states. They should not become lost in confused marking or be forgotten by contrast. Some artists disagree with me on this. Feel free to disagree with me about this. There are strong arguments for never even removing your construction work if it is subtle enough. I feel this is far too restrictive for the young artist who, through inexperience, lacks such subtlety.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=line+of+action&amp;amp;client=ms-android-bell-ca&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjQxKqXmtrQAhXH7IMKHY9fDvUQ_AUIBygB&amp;amp;biw=360&amp;amp;bih=560#imgrc=m_oSDjNt59xcRM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Line of Action.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Though the image linked is from a (very good) cartooning guide book, the line of action is one of the most very basic of construction lines. While cartoonists build their composition around it, life artists and designers seek to find the natural line of action in their real(istic) subject. It may not always be as clear or as flashy as what we see in cartoons, but it is always there. Often, in Figure drawing, a line of action will be your first mark, immediately capturing the emotion of the pose in that first moment of striking the page. A line of action is about the &quot;feeling&quot; of your subject more than its actual appearance. Certainly, it follows the most abstract directionality of what you're looking at, but it also expresses the tension or movement of that subject. A fat, saggy tree, even with a perfectly straight trunk, may evoke a mostly straight, but pot-bellied line of action, possibly with a greater line breadth near its base to emphasize weight. A line of action has an anthropomorphic effect on your work, allowing you to breathe your life as an artist into your work, by imbuing it with your emotional investment in the subject. Certainly not every little thing should be reduced to an abstract line on the page, just the main subject matter, those one, two, or three objects which the image is &quot;about&quot;. Lines of action are best at plotting the position and pose of living things. Inanimate things often have bland and arbitrary lines which give us little to no useful information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Guidelines.&lt;/em&gt; Guidelines are an abstraction of design within a composition. Basically, you are simplifying a subject down to its most fundamental structures and drawing only those, then elaborating upon that initial state in layers of increasing detail. An airplane might start as nothing more than a triangle drawn in perspective. A tree might be nothing more than a venn diagram with a stem. A person might be less than a stick-man. A lot of how-to-draw books start here, as if this is all you need to know to build a good composition. The honest truth is that if you make a compositional mistake at this step and don't correct it, you will waste your time finishing a mistake. When drawing guidelines, &lt;em&gt;stop and look at the total work before you move on to the next step&lt;/em&gt;. Know what your guidelines represent and envision what the finished work will look like if you follow them as they are now, not what you want them to be. Be brutally honest with yourself here: guidelines are easily moved, and unworked paper is cheap. It'll hurt less to correct things for the better now, than to accept a total loss later. Now, as for what your guidelines should look like? That's a much harder question to answer. There's generally three styles, but there's endless variations unique to each artist. First, you have the ever-popular how-to-draw guidelines, called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=line+of+action&amp;amp;client=ms-android-bell-ca&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjQxKqXmtrQAhXH7IMKHY9fDvUQ_AUIBygB&amp;amp;biw=360&amp;amp;bih=560#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=drawing+guidelines&amp;amp;imgrc=PgHCju3TBg0WUM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;modelling&lt;/a&gt; or &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=line+of+action&amp;amp;client=ms-android-bell-ca&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjQxKqXmtrQAhXH7IMKHY9fDvUQ_AUIBygB&amp;amp;biw=360&amp;amp;bih=560#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=drawing+guidelines&amp;amp;imgrc=r2PU5z9X0k2XnM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sausage drawing&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. This generalizes things down into simple geometric blocks or blobs. Some artists draw 3d blocks. Others just draw flat shapes. This method focuses on the contour, or silhouette of the subject, without saying anything about details. This is why this method is so popular among cartoonists: When making an iconic image, silhouette is everything. If you use vaguely 3d block shapes, you can tell yourself information about the subject's relation to perspective, or even draw parts of the subject &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; perspective while planning. Then you have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=line+of+action&amp;amp;client=ms-android-bell-ca&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjQxKqXmtrQAhXH7IMKHY9fDvUQ_AUIBygB&amp;amp;biw=360&amp;amp;bih=560#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=drawing+guidelines&amp;amp;imgrc=QWtzmHmrNqR8_M%3A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;skeleton&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=line+of+action&amp;amp;client=ms-android-bell-ca&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjQxKqXmtrQAhXH7IMKHY9fDvUQ_AUIBygB&amp;amp;biw=360&amp;amp;bih=560#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=drawing+guidelines&amp;amp;imgrc=eZc9v2bSJ1oEoM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wire frame&lt;/a&gt; drawing. This method summarizes the subject down to just a few lines showing the arrangement of its parts in proportion to each other and (somewhat) in perspective, but offers little to little information about contour or volume. Wire frame techniques often show the proportional relationships between fine details. You will most often see it on heads, hands, and feet, as they are very complicated things. Finally, you have points. This reduces a subject to nothing more than a collection of dots on the page. This is very uncommon, and also very hard to show clearly. I cannot find any examples to link you to. Basically, each dot represents something different and important, known only to the artist. A dot could represent a start or end of a line, a boundary for a contour, a vanishing point, the extreme end of an object, the center of a thing... the list goes on. While guiding dots tell the audience nothing, in the mind of an artist who tends toward this method, they mean everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wide variety of guidelines exists because guidelines are all personal mental work. They are not the finished product. They are &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; tools to make that product. Every mind, every hand, every artist is different, so every artist will need to develop unique tools to help them achieve their goals. While watching and imitating other artists tevhniques can lead you in the right direction, the correct path is the one you cut yourself. Do what you understand best, what feels best, and what works best. Nobody will ever see any of this to judge you by it anyways, so all that matters is its utility to you and your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Perspective.&lt;/em&gt; This is a whole field of drawing. Drawing in perspective is not easy. It is a complicated, analytical skill. That said, if you learn it, you should use it, (or at least abuse it) it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; benefit your work. Generally though, perspective is a geometry trick used to create the impression of depth by drawing all marks relative to 1-3 &quot;vanishing points&quot; representing the absolute infinite distance ahead. This can be &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=perspective+drawing&amp;amp;client=ms-android-bell-ca&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwifiqr_o9rQAhXJ44MKHZcbAk0Q_AUIBygB&amp;amp;biw=360&amp;amp;bih=560#imgrc=imdlMqLZhi_KoM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;simple&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=perspective+drawing&amp;amp;client=ms-android-bell-ca&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwifiqr_o9rQAhXJ44MKHZcbAk0Q_AUIBygB&amp;amp;biw=360&amp;amp;bih=560#imgrc=dVchAFe4BZgHdM%3A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bloody complicated&lt;/a&gt;, depending on your subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chunking.&lt;/em&gt; OK, so I made that up. There isn't a word for this, because nobody talks about it, but I've seen countless other artists do this, and I do it myself. Chuncking is the technique of taking a big problem and breaking it down into smaller ones. In college art courses, you're likely to run into this philosophy that all artworks are like a problem to be solved. The problem is the &quot;how&quot; of turning an idea into a thing. The easiest way to &quot;solve&quot; the problem of a drawing is to take apart that blank sheet of paper, dismantle it into smaller, more easily managed pieces, and work on them incrementally and sequentially. Really, all forms of construction lines are part of this chunking process. We draw a circle as a placeholder for the head; a cross as a placeholder for a face; some curvy tetrahedrons as placeholders for the shape of her hair, etc. Chunking, when done in isolation of any other construction technique, deals with the page itself. You draw as if with a knife, slicing up the page into sections. The tall skinny kite is the person I'm drawing. This box is a house. This line is the horizon. This circle is a tree. Etc. We summarize the scene and assign some of our page to each element it contains, divvying up the page as if a resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Next Step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, once you have completed your construction and you think the composition is sound enough to make a finished work, it's time to begin the finishing process. Add general details first, and apply that small level of change to every chunk of the page. Start from the beginning again and add another level, this time get a little more detailed. Do this over and over again. As guidelines become irrelevant because the drawing can stand on its own, replace them. Just keep going until it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T10:33:43.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2016-12-04T22:39:01.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a beginner, I would recommend a generic, cheap mechanical pencil, like a Bic brand mechanical pencil. They produce a reliable and mostly consistent line without need of sharpening. Because the line is usually the same, it is easier for the beginner to practice replicating a mark they like over and over again. The stability of the tool makes it easier to practice your mark, focusing on the skill, rather than the medium. Mechanical pencil leads are often quite soft, making it much easier to make and remove fine marks without careful and frequent sharpening. Mechanical pencils do not require sharpening, and so do not regularly interrupt the drawing process. Mechanical pencil leads are fragile, and helps to teach gentleness of hand, encouraging the beginner to learn how to position the pencil such to put force into a line without damaging the tool. With practice in a mechanical pencil, it is easy to adapt one's hand to all other varieties of more variable dry drawing media, such as standard pencils, wax pencils, watercolor pencils, bricks, sticks, lead holders, charcoal, chalk, and many others. Skill with a mechanical pencil remains useful long into experienced work, both as a tool for finished work, and more importantly as a tool for impromptu sketching and planning. Finally, mechanical pencils are cheap, widely available, easily maintained, portable, and a single one could last you a lifetime if you never lose it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastEditorUserId="1309" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T03:25:42.690" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T03:25:42.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2016-12-05T02:44:45.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend getting a small range of hardnesses, specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HB/#2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2H&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4H&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure they're all the same brand, so that you have consistency of scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend a range, but this small one, because it's important to introduce yourself to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/164/24&quot;&gt;effect of hardness&lt;/a&gt; on the mark a pencil makes. Harder graphite (higher H) makes lighter marks, and the lead doesn't smudge as easily. Softer graphite (higher B for black) makes darker marks that can smudge more easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're used to drawing firmly, like I am, you might be inclined to use the 4H pencils, because it will help keep your marks lighter despite your heavy hand. However, the harder lead also means that if you press harder you're going to leave impressions in the paper that can't erase. Essentially lines of compression, almost like scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The B range are harder to erase completely, but they don't usually gouge your paper, even if you draw more firmly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The HB/#2 pencil is probably what you, or most beginners, are familiar with using, as it's the standard technical/academic/office pencil. Padding it out with a couple pencil on either side of the scale gives you a taste of what the hardness levels can do, and lets you experiment without investing money in the entire range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T02:44:45.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-07T01:58:28.997" Score="10" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about learning to sew and would like to get to the point where I could possibly make a dress (and try to invent one with pockets). I've repaired buttons and rips by hand but guess that won't cut it for anything bigger to start off in getting started I need a sewing machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to spend too much to start but don't want something that the lack of quality makes life difficult in it self. Also with the machine what else would bee needed (other than fabric)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1257" LastEditorUserId="6118" LastEditDate="2018-09-21T20:35:44.650" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T21:54:01.237" Title="What to look for in a good beginner's sewing machine?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2486" CreationDate="2016-12-07T08:13:21.877" Score="6" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of the art form where a translucent material (could be cylindrical) is carved on the inside and lit from within so the image is rendered in brightness determined by how thick the remaining material is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1323" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T16:31:02.213" Title="Name of internally lit translucent carved art" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2482" CreationDate="2016-12-07T16:51:43.147" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most entry-level sewing machines should do fine for sewing apparel, and can even  handle a few thicknesses of denim (reviews are good for this sort of info). I would recommend going for a well-known brand rather than e.g. a vintage secondhand machine. That way if you have any issues, it will be easier to get support at a local sewing shop, from the manufacturer, when buying parts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic features and stitches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running stitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zig zag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjustable tension and stitch length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backstitch function&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zipper foot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance kit (brushes, tweezers, screwdriver, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These should be standard for any modern machine. You probably will want a buttonhole function and a rolled hem presser foot (huge time-savers IMO). Other specialty presser feet (clear, teflon, etc.) can typically be bought aftermarket - another benefit of buying a well-known-brand, but these should get you through most of your projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've brought it home, don't forget to read the manual and give it a cleaning regularly! It's also a good idea to keep it covered when not in use, to prevent dust buildup - some machines come with a cover or case, but you could always make your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With the machine what else would be needed (other than fabric)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread (in spools, or cones if you have a cone holder - cones are often cheaper per yard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Empty bobbins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needles (ballpoint for knit, universal for most everything else; the machine will likely come with a few, but you'll need to replace them as they get dull)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some general sewing tools, which you probably already have some of if you've been hand-sewing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fabric scissors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seam ripper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chalk or disappearing marker for transferring pattern markings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand-sewing needles for finishing touches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iron (ok, it's not strictly &lt;em&gt;necessary&lt;/em&gt;, but it will make your results look much more professional if you press everything)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other sewing accessories out there to play with, but those are the important ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note - steer clear of &quot;hand-held&quot; or &quot;travel&quot; sewing machines. These are small and cheap, typically intended for quick repairs. You don't have to spend a fortune (the model I have is currently $140 on Amazon), but going &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; cheap and ending up with a finicky, flimsy machine might turn you off from sewing altogether!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T16:51:43.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2016-12-08T05:23:08.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the equipment, you can use a projector and computer to project a digital sketch or plan on to your work without leaving any traces of the planning process. This works best with larger images, as it can be very difficult to project onto a small surface area, depending on your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T05:23:08.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2483" CreationDate="2016-12-08T08:12:53.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With thanks to Chris Meyer from Sector67:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithophane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lithophane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry I wasn't clever enough to check with the source in the first place, but thanks for asking the question that triggered that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1323" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2016-12-08T16:31:02.213" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T16:31:02.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15" CreationDate="2016-12-08T19:09:55.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the best advice for newbies is that which educates them toward nolonger being newbies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The qualities of an ink are based on its composition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ink is composed of 3 parts which, together, define how it will behave. The general ingredient types are pigments, binders, and the medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color is usually a pigment or dye. I usually refer to this ingredient as the &quot;pigment&quot; but this is just me not liking the word color as a descriptor of an ingredient. Pigments are a suspension, and will tend to separate a bit, so you need to mix them. If the bottle says &quot;shake before use&quot;, it's a pigment. These can clog pens. Dyes are usually a solution, and rarely separate. Because they are much finer, dyes are less likely to clog a pen. Most black inks are just carbon powder, usually the product of some sort of burning and refining process- basically, liquid charcoal. Other pigments come from all sorts of interesting places. Pigments react to the acidity of a page and UV light. Some Pigments react more than others. Knowing how they react (and what your ink actually contains) takes research. There's no simple way around it. If you want to know, you need to take the effort to go out and find out yourself for each individual one. Higher opacity inks usually have more pigment, and also tend to be thicker, making them less appropriate for pens. In pen work, you want a thin ink with a fine, bold dye. Avoid anything significantly more viscous than water or alcohol. Places which have samples to try an ink are the best to do quick research into products with poor labeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The binder adheres your pigment to the paper's fibers as the medium evaporates. It's basically a type of glue. Different binders have all sorts of different qualities. Some are like a lacquer which barely absorb into the page, sitting on the surface and sealing the ink under a shiny, hard, crusty layer. India ink is an example of an ink with this sort of strong, rigid binding agent. Because such a binder is mostly a surface treatment, it can crack, crumble, and otherwise degrade over time. It also causes the ink to take much longer to dry, as there is a curing process in addition to the evaporation of the binder. Lacquer binders are the worst ink to use in a pen. They are extremely hard to remove from a nib once dried, requiring mechanical abbrasion, and they destroy the inner workings of fountain and technical pens if not thoroughly cleaned immediately following use. These kinds of heavy-duty binders are much harder to find, especially in colored inks. Most binders absorb into the paper and prevent the pigment from separating from the medium, keeping an even color distribution. These binders preserve more of the paper's qualities, and are more commonly available in most inks. These are usually fine to use in a pen. Some binders significantly alter the viscosity of the ink, causing it to be thicker, more like an oil, changing the way it flows and pools on a page. Higher viscosity inks generally take longer to dry, as the pooling reduces the air-exposed surface area, and prevents absorption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The medium is the liquid carrying the dye and the binder. It is almost always water. Less common are spirit (alcohol) based inks, and even more rare are oil based inks. If an ink doesn't say &quot;spirit&quot; or &quot;oil&quot; on the packaging, it's a reasonable assumption that the ink is water based. Without additional ingredients, the drying time is based on this ingredient, and air-exposed surface area. The lower the viscosity, the more the ink will spread out and absorb into the page, increasing the surface area and speeding drying time. In calligraphy, you generally want as thin of an ink as possible, so your ink will dry faster. Generally, of the three, spirit based inks dry the fastest, and oils the slowest. However, additional ingredients are sometimes added to an ink which will speed the drying process and alter the viscosity. Water based inks are by far the most used because they are as close to being chemically neutral as possible, and so will generally last longer. If an ink is &quot;archival&quot;, it is likely water based. Spirits, though thinner and faster drying, are highly acidic, and so generally give the work a much shorter lifespan. Spirit based inks also tend to be too thin for use on low weight paper. They soak in much easier, and so tend to also soak &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; much easier. Finally, they aren't very good for dip pen use, as an open bottle of spirit based ink will lose as much as 30% of its volume to the air over the course of its total usage, as alcohol is more volatile and evaporates much more easily than water. You're much more likely to encounter spirit based inks in contained pens- sharpies being the most famous example. Do not use oil based inks in a pen. They are insoluble in water, making them nearly impossible to clean. Being both thick and slow drying also makes them especially unsuited to calligraphy. They clog pens and cause headaches. Also, and this may or may not affect preference, but spirit and oil based inks usually &lt;em&gt;STINK&lt;/em&gt;, as in they smell very bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In practice, the behavior of an ink also depends on the paper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the qualities you're asking for depend more on the paper you'll be writing on, and how the ink interacts with it. The absorbency, weight, tooth, and finish of a paper will dramatically alter the way ink behaves when applied to it. You say you're planning on using many different papers. Some are good for this, and others should just be avoided. Using India ink as a baseline example, because it is widely available...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A high tooth paper will interfere with pen travel and, if it is toothy enough, have visible ridges or texture rising from the mark, while a low tooth paper will allow smooth, uninterrupted marks and even distribution. Cartridge paper, letterhead, vellum, and most craft store card stock are good examples of the kinds of paper you should aim for when doing ink work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A loose, highly absorbent paper will result in marks soaking into the page like it's paper towel, causing marks to become blobby, fuzzy, or blurry. A dense, tight, low absorbency paper will allow the ink to sit on the surface, but might fail to allow the ink to bind to the fibers well. The less ink absorbed by the paper, the more it pools, and the longer it will take to dry. Machine pressed papers, like craft papers and printer papers, tend to be really tight and sturdy. Watch out for hand-made papers, which can vary wildly, and construction paper, which is often very loose and soft. News print is another example of soft, absorbent paper. Recycled papers should also generally be avoided here, as they tend to have inconsistent absorbency across their surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fine, low-weight paper will warp and buckle, possibly even dissolve, under the moisture of the ink, causing excess ink to run and pool into troughs as the page distorts. Fine paper also tends to allow much more bleed, as there's nowhere for excess absorbed ink to go, but outward from the mark. A heavy weight paper will hold up to moisture much better, will exhibit little to no rippling, and gives the absorbed ink somewhere to go within your mark area. Anything thicker than printer paper is better. The thicker the paper, the better for your mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gloss-finished paper often has a coating, such as wax or kaolin. These tight, non-porous finishing treatments cause the paper to become hydrophobic, preventing any meaningful inkwork. Magazine pages and wrapping paper are examples of kaolinated finishes. Packaging paper, that brown stuff, is often coated with an oily, plastic, or waxy finish. Foils will also repel moisture and generally refuse the binding agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want non-acidic paper. Acidic paper will chemically react with the ink's ingredients over time, and change its properties. The pigment may change color, the binder may degrade, the paper may dissolve. While some inks are less reactive, this merely slows the effect. If you're doing temporary works, feel free to ignore this advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T19:09:55.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2493" CreationDate="2016-12-08T22:40:59.567" Score="9" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to draw a certain design from a stencil and fill it in evenly in black, but using any drawing utensil I know of, like markers, sharpies, colored pencils, paints, etc., I will inevitably be able to see the strokes. I want it to be uniformly dark and not see the strokes. Does anyone know of a special paint or other coloring utensil that I could use that can do this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T05:28:07.737" Title="How to color with an even darkness?" Tags="|drawing|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2016-12-08T22:54:21.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Air brush or spray paint&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not limiting yourself to drawing implements then I would think aerosol / air brush painting techniques would be an easy way to accomplish what you are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what kind of stencil you are using it should be able to use it to keep the paint only in the negative spaces. Or you may need to mask your drawing area with tape to prevent contamination / bleeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T22:54:21.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2490" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-12-09T00:30:13.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use this tag for questions about arts and crafts which relate somehow to hats. For example, questions about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to make a particular kind of hat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to preserve a particular kind of hat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to mend a hat after it's been damaged somehow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-12-09T20:26:52.467" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T20:26:52.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2491" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-12-09T00:30:13.370" Score="0" Body="For questions about arts and crafts specifically involving hats, e.g. about making, mending, or maintaining hats." OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2016-12-09T20:26:45.810" LastActivityDate="2016-12-09T20:26:45.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-09T03:08:22.470" Score="4" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a Martha Stewart catalogue in my office that I made into a &amp;quot;tree&amp;quot; over the course of several lunch breaks. My co-workers have turned it into the local menu holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePdCz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePdCz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Magazine tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that these things need a large number of pages to be successful and mine was just under 300 pages if I recall correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the back end of the tree, where the first and last pages of the magazine would meet, has less uniform pages distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAu9E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAu9E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;back of the magazine tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure I would have to glue or tape the first and last page together but that would not fix the issue. The spine of the book pulls the pages back. If I break it I would expect the tree to fall apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what to do with this if I intend for the whole tree to be seen? I am not looking for perfection just something better then what I have pictured. It is possible that I would need more pages or just picked a bad magazine for this. It's my first day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How I made mine&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created this from visually from looking at one in a display. I did find some images to help with the explanation. It is basically folding each page twice. First grab the top right corner to the inside and crease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjjUh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjjUh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fold top corner to inside&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fold again from the outside so that the fold you created in the previous step comes to the inside making a triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRX1T.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRX1T.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fold again to the inside&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Images from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rd.com/home/decorating/crafty-christmas-tree-out-of-readers-digest-magazines-photos/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RD.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small triangle section will stick out from the bottom. That can be optionally folded up (I chose to in mine for a flat bottom tree). You basically just need to repeat those steps for every page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen mention of removing the front and back cover pages. Doing so would not have changed my issue here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T05:35:36.473" Title="How can I fan out my magazine tree more evenly?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2016-12-09T07:47:56.907" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue is half medium, half technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, your medium. You need something with high opacity. In wet media, we're talking black ink, and probably a wet one. Examples of Black inks which can be easily manipulated to produce an even distribution are sharpie markers, India ink, the proprietary uni-ball brand's ink pens, and Copic markers of the darkest black. For dry media, you want something soft and easily blended, with a really dark color. You want charcoal, or the softest B graphite you can find. I have found that eyeliner pens also work, as weird as that sounds. I'll talk about watercolor pencils at the very end. In either case, even the best tool is not enough. A mark which shows no hand in its production is a very difficult thing to create in traditional drawing media. My own college level instructors told me it was so difficult, it wasn't even worth chasing. (I disagree with them. Mastery of material and technique is always worth pursuing.) It is much easier in painting and printmaking techniques. Doing it with drawing media just takes practice and patience, but using the right tools for the task will make it easier. Black is always the best choice in this regard, as it is usually the most opaque pigment on any palette. The more translucent the pigment is, the harder this becomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The technique:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, this technique takes a long time to practice and master. It requires a ton of patience and endurance. It is a meditative task, in that it is slow, repetitive, boring, and more than a little uncomfortable. It is a trial of tolerance, and demanding of a quieted but focused mind. I would not do this in a place where you are likely to be distracted. Learning this technique is how I learned what it means to meditate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Be gentle&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Press just hard enough to apply the pigment, and absolutely no harder. The weight of the tool alone should be more than enough. Most of an artist's hand is exposed by the damage it does to the paper. By preserving the finish of the paper, you hide your mark. Love your paper: that original finish is why you are doing this in the first place, after all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Go slow&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is especially important with inks, but just as important with dry media. Go just fast enough to leave your mark. Going too fast will pull at the texture of the paper laterally, changing the way light reflects off of it. With ink, you still need to keep a decent pace; the slower you go, the more ink soaks into the page, and the more it bleeds outward. If you're using ink, draw from where you know your bled edge &lt;em&gt;will be&lt;/em&gt;, not where the edge of your nib &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt;. Having a really tightly packed paper, something machine-pressed, with poor absorption, is a good thing here, as more ink will sit on the surface, making the mark take longer to dry, and getting you a darker result. For dry media, you'll want something stiff and toothy, something that can carve out your marking tool like sand paper. You won't always get to choose the best paper for the job, but if you have the choice to use the best, then you should make the choice to use the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Full length strokes&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In even, straight lines, at a constant pace, scan from one edge of the shape to the other. Do not break this line until you arrive at the opposite edge. Be careful to make the ends of each mark flush with the edges of your shape. The ends of a mark have subtle differences due to minute changes in pressure and timing as your physical hand changes direction. You want to &quot;hide&quot; these subtle marks by putting them in the edges of your shape. If you make the mistake of coloring a large shape in &quot;blocks&quot;, then the mark ends line up and the series of subtle marks become a visible line of their own. If you color at random, the many marks form a texture which telegraphs your hand to the audience. So, while it is painfully slow, color it one line at a time, scanning back and forth like a computer printer. Your hand &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; cramp. Adjust your grip slightly with each mark to delay and reduce discomfort. If you are using dry media, you can rest your hand every few marks, but ink is far, far less forgiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Overlap&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Each mark you make, make sure you overlap the previous mark by slightly more than 50%. The thicker your mark, the easier this is to do. This is &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; important with ink, as the repeated overlap ensures maximum deposition of ink at the surface, helping to hide the effects of drying time differences from one mark to the next. This is why ink is so much less forgiving. You want to finish each mark before the previous one has finished drying. The faster the ink dries, the harder this becomes without damaging the paper. Slower drying inks, like dip inks, are often preferred. This urgency imposed by the drying time for inks makes this technique rather stressful if you are not comfortable with the ink and paper yet. Reactivating inks, (like copics) which begin bleeding again when exposed to their wet medium, are a very good option, because the overlapping marks will bleed together somewhat, reducing the need of good mark timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5. Two coats&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Go over the work a second time, angling the strokes of the second coat by about 30°. Be even more gentle than the first pass, as you have already weakened the paper's finish. Ink will have significantly altered the absorption rate of the paper, as the dried ink will have infused its binding agent into the fibers, and your technique will need to adjust accordingly. If you are working in a gloss-finishing medium, like metal point or graphite, the smooth deposit of material is effectively a new finish for the page, and it will change how the next layer is deposited, no matter how soft your pencil is. The main purpose of this step is to get maximum color at the surface. In dry media, because you are being so gentle, you likely won't produce a very dark surface. You'll need to go over it several times, possibly many, many times if the paper is very soft or thin, depositing pigment in many thin, even layers, until the surface is completely coated, blotting out the paper fully. In ink, you always lose some color to absorption. After the initial coat, the fibers are generally clogged with dried binding agent, so the second coat is usually almost perfectly the same color as the dry pigment alone, as most of the ink will dry on the surface, rather than as a stain in the paper. In both cases, with media which blend easily, (charcoal and copics) the second layer allows loose material to blend, obscuring your mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why not some other angle, like 90°?&lt;/em&gt; You want a slight angle for one purpose only: crushing any subtle damage your initial marks made. Provided your second coat is just as gentle, the slight angle will maximally wipe out variance from the first coat. Think of it as polishing the finish, only much more gentle. At the commonly proposed 90° angle, your second coat would create the same kind of damage as your first coat, but will intersect with the initial damage in highly concentrated points, arranged in an even pattern, forming a checkered texture. Using a slight angle spreads out the intersections, and creates a broader, less even pattern, making it much harder to see.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6. Blend it if you can&lt;/strong&gt;: This only applies to media which can be blended and worked after application. (So, pretty much just dry media, with the special inclusion of Copic markers) Using a tortillion, makeup brush, finger, or other blending tool, gently swirl the pigment in a soft, &quot;fluffing&quot; gesture. This moves any loose material around, allowing you to carefully even out its distribution. (With copics, you need a 0 ink pen, that's the one containing nothing but binder and medium. Just make quick, feathery full-length strokes back and forth across the area at a slight angle to your last coat. After quite a bit of work, the marks will begin to bleed together even more. Not all reactivating inks are available in an unpigmented form- in fact, Copic is the only brand I've seen that does it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dry Media: The Other Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my classmates called it cottonballing. I think she just made that up herself, but it's appropriate. That's what it feels like while you're doing it: soft and fluffy. Using a soft, dark, dry material, such as charcoal, begin coloring in your shape with a very light, gentle mark. Be careful to preserve the finish. Do not lift your tool. Color the whole shape in one long, slow, gentle, ponderously meandering mark. It is, in essence, the most delicate form that scribbling can take. Make no sharp angles or straight paths, always be curving, and do not stop moving. Keep your whole shape in sight, watching for an even distribution, and take whatever arbitrary path leads you through the uneven spots most frequently. Don't watch your tool tip, allow your subconscious take care of that while you focus on the work as a whole. To quote Bob Ross, &quot;Think like water. Let it flow.&quot; Eventually, you will have applied a thick enough layer that the surface is completely coated, and cannot possibly get any darker. As long as you avoided patterns like the plague, and preserved the paper's surface, no discernible hand will be visible. Head to an edge and feather it off, following the contour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watercolor Pencils&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to use this tool, use appropriate paper that can stand up to localized moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tools are kind of a gray-area hybrid between watercolor painting and traditional drawing. They are pencils containing dried, brick-form watercolor paint as a lead, plus some additional ingredients to make them less brittle and a little stronger so they draw smoothly. Unfortunately, there is considerable variation in WC pencil hardness, and manufacturers have not thought to advertise their relative pencil hardness. Some brands actually have different hardness from one pencil to another depending on the pigment! Find a set with a very soft black. (Actually, in general, find a set with the softest pencils you can find; they react to water activation better, as they apply as a loose dust rather than a dense accretion.) Use one of the methods from above for dry media to color normally, as though it were just a pencil. Now get out the water and use a damp brush to carefully soak the surface. You want to activate the medium and take up as little as possible. A shorter-bristled brush with a wide surface works best here, as they have less of a belly for pigment. Work the surface until all of the paint has been evenly activated and blended while wet. Let it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If this sounds like it sucks:&lt;/strong&gt; You could always do what my teachers suggested: take up printmaking. I wasn't satisfied with that answer. Other artists have their own techniques for hiding their hand. It's something of a technical mastery &quot;magic trick&quot; in the arts. These techniques are mostly found among hyper-realists and photo reproduction artists. If you know any of them, or meet one, and notice that they do a good job of obliterating their hand from the finished work, ask them how they do it in a polite way. Most artists are pretty down to chat about technique- especially if you buy a commission off of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-12-10T05:28:07.737" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T05:28:07.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-09T16:01:09.663" Score="3" ViewCount="1976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to paint a small metal smoking pipe. All of the paint I can find that's &quot;high heat&quot; / heat resistant says it can go up to 1200F, but apparently a regular bic lighter can get up to 3500F!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any paints that can withstand this? Or perhaps a special coating to go over the paint? Or perhaps the paint part doesn't get as hot and in worrying for nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has to be an answer as I've seen pipes with paint on them before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1336" LastEditorUserId="1336" LastEditDate="2016-12-09T16:59:16.553" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T01:14:43.593" Title="Heat resistant paints for metal smoking pipe" Tags="|paint|heat-resistant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2494" CreationDate="2016-12-09T19:30:10.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking into a few options that you might have already seen I think this will be a safety concern for yourself that you should best avoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not insinuating what you do with the pipe but this discussion has come up before on a few forums about pipe smoking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/opinion-on-spray-painting-metal-pipe.292188/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grasscity - Opinion on spray painting metal pipe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drugs-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190810&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drug Forum - Paint/Color a Metal One-Hitter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marijuana.com/community/threads/metal-pipe-paint-overly-paranoid.207644/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marijuana.com - Metal Pipe Paint -- Overly Paranoid?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consensus is don't risk doing it. From a general standpoint you cannot guarantee that the paint, once sealed/cured/dried etc, wont react in some way once heated regardless of the temperature limit. I know this does not meet your threshold but consider the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/7778830.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MSDS for Rustoleum High Heat Spray&lt;/a&gt; which is designed for resistance extreme temperatures (1200ºF). It list several chemicals that are known carcinogens&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. It is also worth noting these types of paints were not meant for direct flame contact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure you might not paint near the bowl.. but why risk it anyway? If you are trying to personalize it it might just be better to buy one that already has what you are looking for. I don't know what the motivation for painting it though. Personalization was just a guess &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1. I understand those chemicals are listed as present in the can before sprayed but surely enough of them are still present in the paint and have the potential to be released later.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2. This forum post goes a little off topic but the sentiment of not painting a metal pipe is shared.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-12-10T06:10:17.097" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T06:10:17.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-13T12:10:06.167" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to choose which paper to use for aquarelle practicing. I plan to use this paper for practicing only, no need to care about the future of the painting (I can buy different paper for the final versions). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I do not want it to limit or slow the development of my skills, or start developing skills specific to low quality paper only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prices very dramatically. Looks like paper weight is between significant parameters, other parameters may be important. Would it be possible to know the minimal requirements for paper that has no negative impact on the aquarelle  learning process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1303" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-15T03:54:00.453" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T03:54:00.453" Title="Basic requirements for paper to practice aquarelle" Tags="|material-selection|painting|watercolor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-13T20:31:45.640" Score="4" ViewCount="1317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at drill bits, and I have found so many kinds that I am overwhelmed on what I will need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly I found a few types.  Regular drill bits, step drill bits, countersink bits, spade drill bits, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found, on the regular drill bits, that they come in different coating i/e titanium, cobalt, diamond, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to cut into a 1/32&quot; or so piece of stainless steel sheet metal, and have been doing okay with using regular metal (I think metal, hopefully not wood) bits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that Step Drill Bits were recommended for &quot;Sheet metal&quot; but I am scared I will cut too much with that and make too big of a hole?  In the drill bits I noticed there are different kinds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dewalt had some &quot;Pilot&quot; type bits, but had titanium and cobalt coating.  Apparently the Cobalt is used for thicker/stronger metals, and requires a lubricant?  I am not looking to go crazy with some super bits and lube, I just want to make sure I can clean cut without breaking the bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated with this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T04:01:39.617" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T20:23:27.910" Title="Confused on what kind of drill bit I need for my sheet metal project" Tags="|tool-selection|metal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2501" CreationDate="2016-12-13T22:01:34.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine with regular drill bits but make sure you run the drill at a fairly slow speed and cool the drill bit with a few drops of water or oil around/in the hole you're drilling.  These type of drill bits are made from something called high speed steel or HSS, which is fine for drilling steel unless it's high carbon steel (you'd know if it was).  You could also use a TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) drill bit, which has a harder tip. Don't use a diamond bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1351" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T22:01:34.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2501" CreationDate="2016-12-13T23:20:50.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For small holes in stainless ordinary HSS twist drills are fine, but avoid the very cheap ones. Stainless steel is quite abrasive on tools and conducts heat relatively poorly and cutting tools can tend to get hot, so the better quality HSS grades containing cobalt (eg M42) will tend to perform better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get solid carbide drills which can be used for drilling very hard metals eg high alloy and tool steels. But these are brittle and easy to break so best suited for drilling machins with rigidly supported work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conventional spade bits aren't generally suitable for metalwork as they don't have the correct geometry although you can get counterbores for metal which perfom a similar function (ie producing a flat botomed hole). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diamond coated tools are generally intended for very hard and brittle, friable materials like concrete, stone and ceramics, using them on ductile metals (like steels) will clog the diamond abrasive very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coatings are primarily there to reduce friction and improve surface hardness of the drill, this is only really significant in deeper holes where chip clearance and binding in the hole are important factors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricant will help when drilling most metals (the main exception being cast iron), usually any light oil is fine although you can get specific cutting oils and pastes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule of thumb twist drills are fine for holes of diameter up to about twice the thickness of the material being drilled. For much larger holes a step drill may perform better, although you need to take care not to allow a step drill to overheat, especially in stainless. For very large holes (more than about 20mm) a hole saw or sheet metal punch will give better results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For thin sheet backing the hole with plywood or similar will help prevent the drill from tearing through the metal and jamming or forming a ragged hole as it breaks through the back side of the metal. Centre punching the hole location before you drill will also help to prevent the drill form wandering and reduces the risk of breaking bits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind also that with drills smaller than a few mm you are likely to break them fairly regularly so if you have a lot of one size to drill it is worth getting a pack of several of the same size. If you can find a specialist engineering tool retailer online these are often not very expensive for reasonable quality bits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drill speed should be matched to the diameter of the drill and the material being drilled, the easiest way to do this is to consult a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/metalworking/drilling-techniques-and-speed-charts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reference chart&lt;/a&gt; although bear in mind that these figures can vary a bit depending on the precise conditions. For thin material you generally want to apply light pressure and use a failry high drill speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All twist drills will leave a slightly burred edge whatever you do, for the neatest results these can be cleaned up with a countersinking tool or a conical burr. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T20:23:27.910" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T20:23:27.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2500" CreationDate="2016-12-14T04:08:03.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to watercolor, the one place I really recommend avoiding going student grade on is the paper. There are some really excellent student paints, but for paper, meh...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that front, the biggest names in paper are Arches and Fabriano, but what you're really looking for is &lt;strong&gt;100% cotton rag&lt;/strong&gt; at 140 lbs in any brand. Some are, really, better than others, but it gets a bit more marginal in the higher end. The key, though, is that is 100% cotton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why? Well, the behavior of the paper is important. Lower quality paper is usually more absorbent, has less sizing, and is much more likely to buckle and warp. In other words, the behavior of the water and paint on the surface is going to be very different when compared to professional grade alternatives. Given that watercolor is already a challenging medium, why make it even harder? Practice on the best you can afford, especially if you want the same techniques to apply to the final copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T04:08:03.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2505" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-12-14T06:44:45.463" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T06:44:45.463" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T06:44:45.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2506" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-12-14T06:44:45.463" Score="0" Body="For questions on the process of book binding, including preparing covers and pages, assembly, and using book binding tools." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T06:44:45.463" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T06:44:45.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2507" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-12-14T06:54:56.753" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T06:54:56.753" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T06:54:56.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2508" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-12-14T06:54:56.753" Score="0" Body="For questions about all types of fabric and textiles. Use with the specific fabric material, such as felt, if known." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T06:54:56.753" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T06:54:56.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2510" CreationDate="2016-12-14T17:55:23.667" Score="6" ViewCount="18673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a male and I get a hole in the crotch of my jeans all the time. It happens in about 6-12 months of owning the jeans. It always happens in the same spot. I have tried many different brands now and it happens to all of them. What is causing this? What can I do to prevent it? How do I fix it if it already has holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1356" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T21:05:57.190" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T18:03:05.123" Title="How can I fix or prevent getting holes in my jeans near the crotch?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2509" CreationDate="2016-12-14T20:08:34.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely caused by the friction of your inner thighs rubbing together causing the material to wear in that spot quicker (especially because there are a few seams right there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can also be exacerbated by wearing pants that are too tight so that it's relatively tight around the upper leg or ones you shrunk by washing in hot water and running them in a dryer. If you're going to dry them you should wash them in cold water and dry them on low to minimize shrinkage. I have shrunk great jeans before and had to get rid of them because I made them too small. Finding a different pant cut may alleviate this, however, this will probably happen to any jean if you wear and wash them too much so if you can have more pairs of jeans and wash them a bit less they'll probably last a little longer, but it's pretty much always going to happen eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; fix them by sewing a jean patch on (cut up a different pair of jeans or buy a patch from the store) but you have to remember you're going to add more seams and a patch of jean that's either a different color or older/newer jean material and it probably is not going to last all that long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T21:04:13.717" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T21:04:13.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2500" CreationDate="2016-12-14T21:01:32.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on how much work you want to put into setup. If you just want to grab a sheet and paint, I agree with John Cavan's answer absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you just want something cheap in bulk, the works aren't going to be kept, you don't care about them lasting, and you don't mind a little prep, you can use pretty much any paper you want if you &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9c6OWKyYNKI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stretch&lt;/a&gt; it first. (The video calls it &quot;gummed craft tape&quot;, but it's really just butcher's tape)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still use printer paper for most of my watercolor applications, because I usually scan my works into digital form and dispose of the originals, so paper weight and tooth have little importance to my finished works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as a paper which will not interfere with the learning process? I think you may be looking at this from a slightly skewed perspective. &lt;em&gt;Every&lt;/em&gt; paper is its own learning process. They all have their own unique qualities which alter the work, and none of them are especially easier or harder than any others. If you want to focus on learning technique only, I'd aim for something with a smooth finish, not glossy mind you, just with a very fine tooth. Seeing how your paints interact on a plain surface is useful when you start learning how it behaves on toothier papers. The tooth of the paper will concentrate the surface liquid and alter how much absorption happens around it, affecting bleed and all sorts of other things. Beyond that, I'd recommend getting as many different papers as you can and practicing the same techniques with all of them to learn how the nature of the paper changes the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T21:01:32.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2501" CreationDate="2016-12-15T08:28:36.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different drill types for metal, wood and substances like bricks or concrete. But this should be written down on the packing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see no reasons why a metal drill would not drill an ordinary sheet metal for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a bigger project and you can afford, buy few different metal drills of the same diameter, over the range of prices, to check which suits for you the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1303" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T08:28:36.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2509" CreationDate="2016-12-15T10:48:10.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an engineer, I’d suggest reenforcing that specific area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get an &lt;strong&gt;iron-on patch&lt;/strong&gt; and cut a shape out of it, and apply that to the &lt;strong&gt;inside&lt;/strong&gt;. That way it won’t show any extra seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do that with military-grade duck tape (like Gorilla  brand) which will survive many washings, but is meant to be put on temporarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it breaks adjecent to the seam, I think it’s not friction/wear like some have suggested, but is too tight there.  Some motions will stretch the faberic more than it can handle and damage accumulates.  Where it was sewn is actually weaker, and the join can cause stresses to concentrate in that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, make that specific spot more resistant to being pulled open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T10:48:10.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-15T10:53:32.183" Score="4" ViewCount="2062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of silk pajama pants that have come apart along one seam on the leg.  There’s no damage to the cloth and it’s spreading very slowly, so there was just some flaw and that bit of seam was not fastened properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix it, what kind of thread and needle should be used?  I’m leery of using the generic thread from a wardrobe repair kit (a couple dozen miniature spools in different colors) without at least checking first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-12-15T13:25:24.897" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T21:41:32.240" Title="Thread for sewing silk?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-15T10:55:21.273" Score="5" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've painted regular white mugs and want to varnish them too. But my varnish has the following specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gloss varnish based on alkyd resin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flash point: Above 40 degrees Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to varnish on some sections of the painting on the outside of a mug? Or will it catch fire if microwaved to boil water or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no background in chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1357" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:06:18.593" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T16:13:39.187" Title="Varnish with flash point over 40 °C — safe on painted mugs when heated?" Tags="|paint|safety|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2509" CreationDate="2016-12-15T15:25:35.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it okay to offer up a brand of jeans that you may want to try? There is a &lt;strong&gt;company*&lt;/strong&gt; in the US that manufactures jeans that feature a gusseted crotch, they are well made and last years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Darning is one of the best ways to repair denim. You can do this by hand or machine; with or without a patch. Same way you darn socks or holes in a shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple pics I found online:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ehsmf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ehsmf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;darn with patch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;you can see that this was machine sewn.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/394t9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/394t9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;machine darn&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; this is machine sewn and is a great example of how nicely you can darn a hole so it is not visible. Notice the sewing foot that was used due to the hole being so near the seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*As a doting customer for more than a decade&lt;/strong&gt;, Diamond Gusset Jeans are worth the investment. The main reason this falls under this topic, is the design. All of their jeans (including women's) have the gusset in the crotch. This design along with the quality of denim make for years of daily wear. My husband still wears his first pair and he wears jeans every day. They are no longer black, more like charcoal grey, but, no holes in the knees or crotch. On the other hand, my jeans have begun to wear in the crotch seam this past year, but as a curved woman whose shorts and pants have always worn first at the crotch, they surpass my expectations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2016-12-15T18:03:05.123" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T18:03:05.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2517" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-12-16T02:10:45.623" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:10:45.623" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T02:10:45.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2518" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-12-16T02:10:45.623" Score="0" Body="For questions about the usage of all varieties of varnish, including lacquer and shellac. If possible, also tag what's being varnished, such as paint or wood." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T02:10:45.623" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T02:10:45.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-16T06:39:30.747" Score="2" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to ask this because I have been having problems with this. This there a proper way to use 4 or more colors in a crochet project? Like for example, if you wanted to crochet a portrait or a something that includes shading and you need at least 4 colors to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know how to prevent the project from shrinking on itself and tightening from switching to one color to another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1361" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T02:17:39.383" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T17:31:52.907" Title="How do you properly use more than 3 colors in a crochet project?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2515" CreationDate="2016-12-16T15:38:49.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, you should be using glaze and not varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get that you're just trying to protect a painting outside the mug, but even if you just wash it by hand, a varnish is likely going to break down much, much faster (especially with heating it) than a food safe glaze which can be applied to the whole mug creating a seal to protect everything and can often be washed in the dishwasher and heated even in an oven if you so desire and it won't damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caveat is that it probably would need to be kiln fired, but considering the prevalence of paint-and-take ceramic shops nowadays, you can probably find one that'll let you pay a fee to glaze and fire it for you so you don't even have to buy the glaze for one project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1350" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T15:38:49.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-16T16:22:32.707" Score="2" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Singer Overlock 14SH754 Sewing Machine but I'm not sure that my thread is routed correctly, as the tension seems off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I confirm that the thread routes through the &quot;tension discs&quot; in-between the metal discs, and not between the plastic dial and metal disc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfiJJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfiJJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1366" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T03:37:42.937" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T21:45:05.453" Title="Overlocker tension discs threading" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2522" CreationDate="2016-12-16T16:54:00.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have confirmed that I was right and that the thread should go between the metal discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1366" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-17T02:12:04.407" LastActivityDate="2016-12-17T02:12:04.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-19T06:23:11.343" Score="3" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know if there are any stitches that only be achieved through knitting as well as any stitches that can achieve through crocheting only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1361" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T16:15:58.850" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T00:39:18.493" Title="Are there any stitches that are specific to knitting/crocheting only?" Tags="|crocheting|knitting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2538" CreationDate="2016-12-19T08:01:32.117" Score="7" ViewCount="889" Body="&lt;p&gt;What strategy shall I use to cross stitch a pattern which has a lot of single points/cross like the one below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wbvj1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wbvj1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pattern example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a lots of video about the parking method, but it seems to be always demonstrated on big fixed &quot;looms&quot;, which seems to prevent the parked thread from tangling, and on patterns with at least several contiguous points for each color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this method also good when working on a portable hoop and on patterns with a lot of single points? Are there other strategies that would be more fitted to this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="70" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T19:29:17.497" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T09:20:23.887" Title="Is a parking method a good strategy to cross stitch a pattern with many single points?" Tags="|cross-stitch|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-19T23:17:01.750" Score="8" ViewCount="1685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to make a ladder-like structure completely out of fishing line. I'm trying to avoid any extra materials such as rings, hooks or crimping sleeves because I want this to be as low-visibility as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The project will consist long vertical sections connected by horizontal segments at regular intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a diagram of a portion of what I have in mind:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xu1qs.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xu1qs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black circles here would be knots, and I need to be able to space them the same vertical distance apart each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red sections connect the two verticals, and I need to be able to tie them to the the bottoms of each vertical section. Again, each segment should be the same length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem comes in being able to keep the distance between knots equal. I tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfYSkpu8AKk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a double slip knot&lt;/a&gt;, but I can't seem to control the length well enough since I need a knot at both ends of the segment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to get them evenly spaced, within about 1/8th inch tolerance? It doesn't need to be the same knot at either end of the segment, if that helps. I'm not sure if there's a specific knot combination I need to use, or some technique/trick (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.satincord.com/knots/knot_spacing_tip.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like using straws on thicker material&lt;/a&gt;) that will help me space whichever knots I go with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ends don't have to be tight knots, but could be open loops, as long as I can make the length from end of loop to end of loop consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This project will end up supporting weights which will hang from the horizontal sections, so it's important that the knots withstand the weight. There'll be about 1 pound per horizontal segment. This means that if I make 5 sections, the top will support all the weight (5 lbs) and the bottom will only support the last pound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T06:32:55.000" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T20:46:22.227" Title="How do I evenly space my knots for my hanging craft project?" Tags="|knots|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-20T15:53:36.470" Score="7" ViewCount="848" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife recently went crazy for wet felting and bought a fair chunk of wool roving in a variety of colours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely it will take a while to get through it all and I want to be sure that it is still usable for a while. Currently it is just being stored in sealed plastic bags. They do not appear to be air tight. She did try to vacuum seal the bags, which I am not sure is good or bad, but since they are not air tight it didn't take. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I store wool roving to maximize its shelf life in my home? I will assume there are considerations for temperature, humidity etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Southern Ontario Canada. I get dry winters and humid summers. While the house is regulated, in general, every nook and cranny is not e.g. basement, closets etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="137" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T16:05:35.753" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T16:22:18.637" Title="What should I keep in mind for storing wool roving?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2525" CreationDate="2016-12-20T19:07:36.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the pattern you posted, I would look at which stitches are rather close together, and 'hop' from island to island, taking a route so that the thread at the back doesn't form loops that are too large.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When there are single stitches or small groups that are further apart, I reason as follows: are the stitches/groups so far apart that it takes less thread to bind off and start again? If not, I make the thread go underneath one or two of some stitches in between (make sure it doesn't show at the front side, so don't push through completely), so the loops at the back side of your embroidery work are not that large.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If there are no stitches in between yet, you can always secure a large loop when you get there (with another colour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T19:07:36.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2016-12-21T00:04:52.723" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;When I am drawing, I have a lot of good ideas to use, but I always have trouble envisioning the drawing I want to make! I end up starting to draw and then erasing it countless times before I get close to making the picture in a satisfactory way, and even then there are times when I see the finished product and think it's not the way I wanted it to look.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1st&lt;/strong&gt; - Focus for the detail/ Unfocus your eyes for the &quot;forest&quot; (the global drawing) - Do this all the time when drawing;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2nd&lt;/strong&gt; - Erase ?!? Why ? Make the drawing directly on pen/ ink - no pencil - that is what i do since.. forever actually;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3rd&lt;/strong&gt; - Try to achieve the same image that is in your head - another mistake: art is dream (unless you are doing scientific drawing or hiper realistic);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4rd&lt;/strong&gt; - &quot;Art doesn´t express the visible - it makes visible&quot; / &quot;To draw is to take a line for a walk&quot; - both quotes from Paul Klee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;How do I completely plan out a drawing before I start so I know what I'm doing?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oh, then you think that to &lt;em&gt;know how to draw is to plan everything&lt;/em&gt; ? In my view it is exactly the opposite..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I always wish I had an image of my future drawing in my head instead of only a general idea and could just transfer it to the paper without trying so many times. Why is this so hard for me to do?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;People that try to explain paintings are &quot;barking&quot; to the wrong tree&quot; - Pablo Picasso. I´m sorry for the language but i think i am being accurate in what were his exact words. Listen: art is what it does not exist yet ! It is an adventure, a leap into the unknown. You seem to want the impossible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I´m sorry but that isn´t art - it is just called &lt;em&gt;technique&lt;/em&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Antoni Tàpies has a book called &quot;Art against aestetics&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a broader view of art - painting - drawing - sculpture - conceptual - abstract, etc would be good for your artistic path at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1383" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T00:04:52.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-21T14:40:19.133" Score="10" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can make a winged sonobe cube and the winged sonobe piece. I learnt to do this from our origami book. The book states you can use twelve pieces to make an octahedron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have spent quite some time trying to puzzle out how to do this without success. I then tried to google a tutorial but can only find tutorials for the normal sonobe piece octahedrons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to build an octahedron from the winged sonobe pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1385" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-12-24T20:41:39.977" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T05:00:38.850" Title="Winged Sonobe octahedron assembly" Tags="|origami|unit-origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2527" CreationDate="2016-12-21T16:22:18.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it comes to wool, I think the biggest issue is moths. You don't want the wool to be eaten, so to store it somewhere where the moths cannot come, is a good idea to start with.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, constant moderate temperature and humidity sound like a good idea as you don't want the wool to dry out, become less soft, those kind of things. You're mentioning that the wool has a variety of colours, so I assume that it's painted and not all natural colours in different shades of white and brown? In that case, the wool grease has probably been removed, and drying out is less of a problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I myself have a lot of raw wool (including grease, dirt, pieces of grass and sometimes a dead beetle) for at least 10 years and I actually never did anything special to store it. The wool gets less greasy over time, but as long as there are no moths in the wool, you can do with it whatever you want.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(P.S.: Be aware that felt is a moth magnet!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T16:22:18.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2472" CreationDate="2016-12-21T17:38:55.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Data point: I successfully blocked a mixed-fiber scarf by soaking in warm water! It was made of fingering weight yarn, content: 75% superwash merino / 25% nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an arbitrary mixture, the safest method would definitely be to make a test swatch and see how it responds... but since I don't always swatch, the next best thing is to try blocking in order of least to most potential for damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Block by soaking and letting dry&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This will only be effective on the natural fibers in the yarn. This will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have any effect on the plastic fibers, but will not damage them either. In my case - 75% natural fiber - this was sufficient to retain the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steam block&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This will affect both types of fibers, so it should be effective. The danger here is that you over-heat and melt the plastic fibers. This is permanent! So I would only use this if the previous step did not work, and on low heat. Wool and other natural fibers won't be damaged by that either.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T17:38:55.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2526" CreationDate="2016-12-21T17:51:24.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing that comes to my mind, why don't you try it in the same way as bobbin lace? In your case, that means a large cushion (maybe a(n old) mattress), as stiff as possible, and use pins to get/keep the knots in the right places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T17:51:24.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2526" CreationDate="2016-12-21T19:48:44.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see you use the word fishing line and the tag monofilament.&#xA;If so the string will be hard to control and it will need knots with a few extra turns to make them stick without moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll start with describing the knot as slipping knots is the most common problem in tying evenly spaced knots in monofilament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first try would be a bowline kind of knot but with a double round turn for the verticals and if needed also a double round turn for the connecting bits. The red in the drawing is going through the double loop twice before being tied off in whatever method you are familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwHiH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwHiH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drawing of knot described in answer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Drawing by Willeke for the knot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will still be good to use a jig (being your pillow and pins/wood and nails or whatever) to spread the knots.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Close the knots by pulling them agains your jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your string has a very strong mind of its own, three of more turns might be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you do not use a jig, having a ruler or spacer at hand is a good way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also look into netting, although netting with just one row of square mesh is very unsual and might require doubled line which you want to avoid.&#xA;But the methods of tying bowlines around a mesh stick might work for you even without the whole of the net structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2023-10-16T20:46:22.227" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T20:46:22.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2525" CreationDate="2016-12-21T20:11:00.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When starting out I would try to get some of the bigger areas, so you have a bit of a body to anchor the rest of the work in. Like the red diagonal markers which are at the top third of your picture.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once you have a big island you can start working on the smaller islands and only then fill in the single stitches in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you would that method you will see that you do not need as much parking, you will have more enbroidered space to use to move your working thread around to where you need it.&#xA;As in the other answer, move to where you need it if it costs less length than stopping and starting again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few parked threads can find a spot in a small portable loop.&#xA;If you need more than those, bring the thread outside the ring and pull it through the fabric and take the needle off. It might be needed to do that within and outside the loop to make it stick where you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T20:11:00.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2524" CreationDate="2016-12-21T20:24:06.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not completely.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can get the same effects or the same journey of the thread/string while using other methods to construct the fabric.&#xA;Knot tyers often use the basic knitting stitches when making fenders out of rope, but constructed completely different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when working with string or rope you can copy almost all knitting and crochetting stitches. But in most cases it is not worth the work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Specially crochetting is hard to copy and not worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing both knitting and crochetting you will find that the stitches are unique to one or the other, and it is almost never possible to create the effect of stitches in one while doing the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few stitches which need both knitting and crochetting. But you need both to make them, you can not make them with either one alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a creative knot tyer and do knit, crochet and other crafts. And I am good in seeing/recognizing patterns. Most people will not know about the patterns cropping up across other crafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T20:24:06.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2540" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-12-21T20:50:51.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word knot is mostly used as general word covering knots, bends and hitches which are used to tie string or rope to itself or other objects. In the stricter sense, it is just used to describe connections within one length of rope or string and for connections between very small size string and yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T03:01:15.770" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T03:01:15.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2541" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-12-21T20:50:51.600" Score="0" Body="This tag is to be used for questions about tying knots in or between string or rope, or other strands of material" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T03:02:47.860" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T03:02:47.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2522" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:45:05.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overlock machines (aka sergers) can be very fickle depending on the fabric that you are using. It is a &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; to have your manual near by and scraps of fabric to sample before starting your project. Especially since a serger will cut the fabric edges when the knife is in place. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your manual will give you alternate settings and tips for the tension knobs that you show in your picture as well as the feed dog tension. You can also play with the tension to make the serged edges ruffle, especially with knits.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ALSO, be careful with knits! They can really mess up a machine - don't pull or push the fabric in, always let the feed dogs take the knit material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T21:45:05.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2524" CreationDate="2016-12-21T21:46:20.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest intersection of knitting and crocheting that I know of is Tunisian crochet, where you use only one needle that looks like a knitting needle base with a crochet-hook tip. You start with a chain of crochet stitches as you would with any crochet project, but you hold stitches/loops on the needle as you start a row (left to right) and release the stitches as you finish the row (right to left). It's been a long time since I've done it, and I wish I knew better how to describe what is happening technically, but it's possible to do almost all the knit/purl stitches and combinations thereof in this manner using only one needle. In that sense, there are no knit stitches that are exclusive to knitting, at least as long as you concede that Tunisian crochet and &quot;regular&quot; crochet are the same thing (which I'm not sure I'm willing to concede). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1176" LastEditorUserId="1176" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T14:21:34.073" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T14:21:34.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2016-12-22T17:38:16.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use more than three colours the same way you use three colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the different patches of colour are close together you can leave the thread idle while working till you need it again.&#xA;When slightly wider apart you can lock the idle yarn under a stitch or wind it around a different thread that is handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the distance is big, tie off and start with the colour again when you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the actual style of crochetting yarn taken along under the stitches might show or be hidden.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If hidden, it is the best way to move the idle yarn for a few stitches, not only locking the lengths away but also strengthening the colour changes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can also use this method to anchor the end where you take out a colour and the start of use of a new colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2016-12-24T20:27:13.280" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T20:27:13.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-22T17:47:32.043" Score="6" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a glass sheet that is porous and I am looking for tips on my kiln cycle program. I have soda lime glass beads that I crushed into a powder and I am planning on pouring them into a glass frit mold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to do a gentle tack fuse such that the powder forms a cake that moves as a single piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on hold temps/time and heating/cooling rates would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastEditorUserId="1390" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T14:00:24.973" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T04:06:28.147" Title="How to tack fuse glass frit and keep pores in glass" Tags="|glass|kiln|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2514" CreationDate="2016-12-22T17:47:33.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 4 inch repair I would use the yarn and needle in the repair kit, and do it now before it spreads further. &#xA;Use the most matching colour and the finest thread if you have several options, and as thin/fine a needle as you can handle for the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When sewing a whole project, it is good to get good quality thread and needles, but for a small repair you use what is at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While silk thread is available, it is expensive and many people will still use polyester or cotton for the hidden seams and only buy silk if there is top stitching where it shows. When you do buy it for the top stitching you might well use it for the rest of the sewing as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T17:47:33.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2492" CreationDate="2016-12-22T17:56:20.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to do the whole tree one more set of folds, you can fold the pages into narrower triangles which will each be thicker and as such will fill out the tree more.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It might be best not to do all pages but skip three and do it a second time for the middle of the three left if more work is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will alter the look of your tree, making it narrower, or making it less even all over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative that does not change the part of the tree you see is to add a trianglar block in the back, to fill the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T17:56:20.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2016-12-23T20:35:47.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many macrame projects you mostly tie with only a part of the ends, the rest are just there waiting for their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your knitting fish work well for the 'waiting' ends, making the few that work at the time less likely to get in tangles.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or, if you do not have those fish, bundle the string and tie the end around it or use a small elastic band.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working knots where one string goes side to side of the work, you can teach yourself to only use one string, by tying in reverse and flipping the knot if the other one should have been used.&#xA;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://knopen.ismijnhobby.nl/images/ck-3.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;double half hitch&lt;/a&gt; is such a knot.&#xA;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://knopen.ismijnhobby.nl/tables/square_knot_table.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;square knots&lt;/a&gt; (also known as Portuguese sinnet, Soloman bar, and many other names) you seem to work with two strings and have two in the middle you tie around.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But most people tie with one string, having to pull through only one string, again you can work in such a way that you use just the same string all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a belt where the design is for string running the whole length of the belt, you should always use string which is long enough to run that whole length, substituting new string will almost always show and can sometimes fail. If you do run out of string unexpectedly or when string breaks you can try out the tricks in the other answer, but I would not plan on doing so unless needed.&#xA;It is not easy but it is worth the extra work for the full length strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T20:35:47.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2550" CreationDate="2016-12-24T04:22:01.573" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;After i installed a filter adapter and a filter on my fuji x70 camera, the lens part is now longer so the lens cap no longer hold itself on the camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please refer to the picture, there is a lens cap holder but given that the lens is now longer the cap doesnt reach the holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of attach some foam tape inside the lens cap so it fits better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any better idea would be appreciated. It should be soft so that it doesnt scratch the outler lens case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afk5Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afk5Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQ1yd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQ1yd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXd9B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXd9B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1393" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T13:11:38.480" Title="Modding lens cap on camera?" Tags="|tool-modification|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-12-24T16:36:05.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2549" CreationDate="2016-12-24T12:10:55.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do agree with needing a layer of something on the inside of the lens cap.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But it needs to be rather firm, not squizy or easily distorted. Most foams would just not do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can get hold of professional packaging foams that are smooth and rather sturdy on the surface and allow compression from the top (when the sheet lays flat on the table.) Those would do the job if you can get the edge to sit wider than the outside of the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my view easier is using sticky tape on the inside rim of the filter. You can add that one layer at a time and cut to the right dimensions, so not sticking out of the cap, when you have enough layers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many kinds of sticky tape will do, I would go for the paper kind that people use when painting the house, which is crepe like in structure.&#xA;It gives a better hold than most of the plastic tapes and it is kinder, as in not scratching the outside of the filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever tape you use, add one layer at a time and test between adding.&#xA;Make sure you take away any glue that may be pushed out from under or between the layers of tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you need several layers and having added them one at a time made the thing untidy, take all out and apply the number of layers you ended up using. Specially overlap or gaps where the layer meets going round it likely to mesh up tidy fit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You might find it easier to stick a layer or a few layers of tape on the outer ring of the filter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easier option is to go to a camera shop and get a new lens cap from them, which has worked several times for me. For use of filters and for lost lenscaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2016-12-24T13:11:38.480" LastActivityDate="2016-12-24T13:11:38.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2016-12-26T10:50:51.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that your most important step is the sanding of the binding edge. You want to &quot;ruffle up the fibres,&quot; adding surface area for the glue to stick to, but most importantly, you want to sand the edges enough so that they are &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; affected evenly--to the point that all of the signature edges are part of the same plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, in commercial binderies we usually used a white, &quot;Elmer's-type&quot; glue for a cold binding glue (for &quot;perfect-bound&quot; books we used a hot melt glue that would look ugly but be concealed by a &quot;wrap&quot; cover that you don't(?) have). &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.uline.com/BL_1273/Padding-Compound?pricode=WA0343&amp;amp;AdKeyword=%2Bpadding%20%2Badhesive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is an example.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheesecloth is a great strengthener. You should &quot;fan out&quot; the binding edge after it's been ground well (kind of like flipping through a deck of cards) to expedite the glue up between the pages, then soak 1/16&quot; to 1/8&quot; of the spine in the glue. Then, add the cheesecloth (the glue will hold it there. Let it partially dry, like 5 or 10 minutes, then add 1 or 2 more coats of glue on top of that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2016-12-26T22:59:54.863" LastActivityDate="2016-12-26T22:59:54.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2553" CreationDate="2016-12-26T22:25:00.420" Score="3" ViewCount="1752" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are looking to add a bit of &quot;bling&quot; to a the bar in a nano-brewery tasting room. The front of the bar (where your legs go if you are sitting at the bar) is 8&quot; tongue-and-groove with a V-groove at each joint. The material is Eastern White Pine (a softwood) and will be finished with a light stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to add visual interest by affixing a length of 8-gauge copper wire within each of the V-groves. The wire needs to be attached securely enough that it will not come free if someone's leg or foot hits the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what to use to attach the wire. My first thought is some sort of rounded copper staples. I actually have some staples that fit one of my staplers that would be perfect, but they are steel. I have not (yet) been able to find small copper staples, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other alternative suggestions for attaching the wire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1404" LastEditorUserId="725" LastEditDate="2016-12-27T13:23:16.877" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T13:23:16.877" Title="How to attach copper wire (8 gauge) to wood (Eastern White Pine)?" Tags="|adhesives|wood|metal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2552" CreationDate="2016-12-27T01:02:56.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copper grounding clamps have a nice industrial look to them and they come in all shapes and sizes, easily handle the 8awg requirement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though the copper staples would be a far more economical solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Acme staples company carries copper staples. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acmestaple.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.acmestaple.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T01:02:56.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2016-12-27T13:04:25.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have seen in printed drawings, like in newspaper cartoons, it make a dark shadow close to where your light source is, but add less colour farther away.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That way you will not need to fill the whole sheet of paper with dark intense pencil lines but you still get the contrast around your light focus bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As EmRoBeau I do advice you to experiment. Take a sheet and draw many a small drawing on it. I have learned to do it with fields (squares or rectangles) with a line around them. But you can also be more free.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fill some of your fields all the way to the line, in others just fade the shade further from the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The all over dark, as in the paintings of Rembrandt, is very hard to achieve with pencils and often does not look good as the amount of colour makes it shiny rather than dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T13:04:25.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2399" CreationDate="2016-12-27T16:32:38.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the size of the mirrors is such, that it's already (sort-of) tight fitting in the tube, then you don't need much force to keep things in place. You may consider a kneadable adhesive like blu-tack.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An Internet search also leads to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.splitcoaststampers.com/forums/general-stamping-talk-f17/strong-glue-safe-kids-use-no-gluestick-glue-gun-t95466.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;someone mentioning dimensional glue dots&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gluedots.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glue Dots&lt;/a&gt; are a name brand adhesive, sort of like stickers except the stickers are double-sided tape pieces, but also refers generically to similar products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, you can stick to the hot glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T20:22:28.750" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T20:22:28.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-28T01:00:07.747" Score="9" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this pillow for sale and would like to make it with my own fabric, in a different color. How can I replicate this look? I have a sewing machine and moderate confidence in my by-hand skills as well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ot4hm.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ot4hm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;orange ridged pillow fabric&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T19:05:49.673" Title="Can I replicate this &quot;bumpy&quot; fabric on a pillow?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2557" CreationDate="2016-12-28T05:34:24.053" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't sew fabric like that from normal flat fabric.  If you have the fabric, you can sew it together as a pillow.  But your question seems to be about making the fabric itself.  To make fabric like that, you would need to weave it on a loom.  (If you have never woven, my answer will make no sense at all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cast on a very sparse warp; about 3 threads per inch by the looks of it.  These are the thin threads running horizontal in your picture. The weave you would do is called a log cabin weave.  For your weft, get two different kinds of bulky yarn.  You will alternate in a pattern like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pedal: go left with the first color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B pedal: go left with the second color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pedal: go right with the first color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B pedal: go right with the second color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat this pattern throughout the whole fabric. Make sure not to beat the weft down too hard.  This is a very loose weave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2020-07-26T15:34:07.720" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T15:34:07.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2557" CreationDate="2016-12-28T14:21:16.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2558/92&quot;&gt;margalo's assessment&lt;/a&gt; that this pillow was most likely created with a specially woven bumpy fabric, rather than sewn from flat fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the spirit of craftiness -- you could try creating a similar bump pattern with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smocking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;smocking&lt;/a&gt;. This won't look exactly the same, but it is a way to create a 3D texture from flat fabric by sewing. Smocking is typically done by hand, by marking a grid on fabric and then drawing the points together in a particular pattern with thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bobbyscushions.blogspot.com/2006/02/bobble-cushion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bobble cushion&lt;/a&gt; has some of the elements you are looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C91d6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C91d6.png&quot; alt=&quot;smocked cushion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smocking is usually done with lightweight wovens and gives them crisp and even gathers. For this pillow, I would suggest trying a thicker, soft fabric. You might even be able to use a (stable) knit. This is because the original pillow is uneven and bumpy, with thicker bobbles (plus, it will probably feel nicer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I know you asked about sewing, but if you are willing to crochet or knit, a third option would be to alternate rows/columns of bobbles and rows/columns of flat stitches. Again, not exact duplicate, but a similar texture on the large scale could be achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T14:21:16.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2557" CreationDate="2016-12-28T17:18:45.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it looks like a weave with an extra think yarn for the bumpy bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to replicate it by taking a loose weave fabric and using embroidering to work the thick yarn in. (For which you will need to make space by pushing the other yarn of the basic fabric out of the way.)&#xA;You will have to experiment how to get the same effect in the embroidering, I guess it is over 2, under 1, over 5, under 2, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you can sew the fabric onto the cushion as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not bother, just getting a new fabric that you like will be much faster and less likely to go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2016-12-28T17:23:32.177" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T17:23:32.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2447" CreationDate="2016-12-28T17:34:09.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Diamond dust&quot; refers to glitter than is actually composed of crushed glass instead of the traditional shiny flecks of plastic. This differs from glitter in that it is composed of larger pieces and therefore has more problems with adhesion. My guess, based on the limited information, is that Summer Rose is having a hard time because the glitter is leaving gaps where the adhesion shows through and is too sticky?&#xA;To avoid this, there are a couple options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Use a better glue&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For glitter like this that is both heavier and larger, a more robust glue is needed. Instead of spray glue, try using PVA glue or hot glue. If you find these adhesives do not dry completely clear and do not offer the desired effect, there is diamond dust specific glue called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diamondglaze.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diamond Glaze&lt;/a&gt; which seems to be popular among crafters if you'll be using diamond dust frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Use traditional glitter instead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional glitter is cheap and super easy to use. It can be adhered with nearly any liquid glue. Just don't accidentally drop it on yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.splitcoaststampers.com/forums/techniques-f11/how-apply-diamond-dust-t301896.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This forum on diamond dust&lt;/a&gt; also might be helpful to you where a similar question is asked. It's lengthy, but you might get some good tips outs of it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T17:34:09.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2016-12-29T05:55:50.763" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to know the thickness/density of your paper. The specifics, grades, etc. are beyond your question. However, you can look at the cover of your pad or pack, refer to your supplier if you buy singly, or do some experimenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of your question, I'll refer to the standard labeling of 90 lb, 140 lb and 300 lb. 90 being very thin (think card stock), 140 being heavy card stock and 300 being visibly thick, about the thickness of a slice of average supermarket pre-sliced cheese. These are very general terms. Look you what you use and prefer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with increased density comes increased opacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thickness:&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;Grade&quot; your paper on a scale of one to three (given the general descriptions above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Texture:&lt;/strong&gt; Your paper may be as smooth as silk (which could affect the issue—harder to &quot;hide&quot; pencil marks on smoother paper, harder to erase on heavy paper—though this isn't a hard-and-fast rule because I don't know your style (which is also a factor in being able to really help you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Style:&lt;/strong&gt; Watery? Dense? How do you prepare your paper (if at all?). There aren't too many rules with watercolor - except those you need for a specific style or goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solutions/steps: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First/always, miniaturize your problem. Use small pieces of the paper you prefer (don't get something different) and try these things out. You may come up with a better process than anything I've thought of): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create the trace/transfer line image in deep dark Sharpie (or graphite) on tracing paper or vellum depending on which of my methods you choose, your style, materials, etc. The darker your trace, the more exact your composition will be. This image will either be backwards or not. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Transfer your outline on the BACK of your paper in favorable conditions so that you can see the outline through when you are looking at side you're going to paint on. If this works, tape the line drawing to the back carefully. You do NOT want it to slip. In fact, this can be done in sections, depending on your style and skill. Light tables can be fairly weak, a really sunny window can be better sometimes. Important: you may need a drape or turn out indoor lights to see enough detail, even with a lightbox. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; If you wet/tape your paper first, don't use anything water soluble to make your trace. If you do not wet/stretch first, experiment on small chips of paper to see what works best for you. Keep them for reference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stop using lines, at least at first. Think connect-the-dot pictures. If you can see your image through the back well enough, no pencils needed. Put the faintest &quot;markers&quot; on the front of your paper using extremely faint paint, let this dry. Use as little paint as possible. Let your dots, or hints dry. If you can't see them well enough, make sure you have a good light, tilt your paper, make your guiding dots a shade darker. Use the colors you'll be using. I have found that the faintest of lines can be seen (after drying) to guide me. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draftsmen often use a type of pencil, a non-photo blue pencil. Try frisket to block paint from going where it shouldn't. Also a sharp chalk pencil (dove grey) if you must trace onto your surface is a possibility. Experiment on small pieces of the paper and paint you use (paint quality matters, too).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Projectors can be handy and time saving I guess, but good ones are pricey.  Using printable watercolor paper could be worth a try if the quality has advanced at all. I DO use the computer to print out 8 X 10 sections of a large piece if it has to be an exact likeness. Whatever method works best for you, USE it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use heavy paper and all the methods I've described with success. &#xA;Again, Everything depends on your style and materials. If you care to be a little more specific on these, all of our questions would be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In closing, using most watercolor paper weights will allow you to be exacting in your art without touching a pencil to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1418" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T20:19:46.147" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T20:19:46.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2016-12-29T12:44:32.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't specify what kind of processing is permitted on the cardboard, if any, but if you have relatively free rein I'd recommend investigating papier mache - it has been used historically for furniture making so could represent a very viable option for making chairs out of cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options range from a very basic and functional version made from essentially cardboard tubes glued together, to very ornate items such as seen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mi0c7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mi0c7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.papiermache.co.uk/articles/victorian-papier-mache/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From papiermache.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the most complex end of the scale, paper and cardboard can be glued in layers to make a material which is almost as strong as wood, and can be cut, carved and sanded in much the same way.  This is very time consuming and can require specialist equipment so it's not particularly practical for hobby applications, but it goes to show the kind of strength that can be obtained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2019-01-06T13:47:19.457" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T13:47:19.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2016-12-29T13:41:25.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look into the several cardboard stools which are commercially available. &#xA;And read the limitations on those as far as weight is concerned.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A google images search 'cardboard stool' will reveal many stools and several chairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.werbecenter-onlineshop.de/WebRoot/Store/Shops/Werbecenter_Berlin/55DC/65FB/E9DC/C3A8/94C4/4DEB/AE2D/974E/pappart_hocker__komplett___1000x1000px.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link leads to a stool on a commercial site&lt;/a&gt;, very basic two sheets of cardboard crossing and a third sheet on top as seat, they rate it to 150 kg (330 pounds), and adults rather than just kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have plenty cardboard you can do a couple of tests with heavy weights but as long as you have the card board in its strongest position (vertical) and with enough body (thick corrugated board or folded and used with more fields thinner corrugated boards) you will be good for your weight limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I remember a box as people use to move house will rate about the strength when just folded shut, adding tape or glue to fix the shape will add strength and you might be able to cut away part of the sides opening up the structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other approach would be to stack cardboard, any kind, to the needed height and use that for the base. Cutting out parts of the sheets will give the impression of legs while still keeping enough strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commerically made cardboard tubes will be strong enough for a chair, even fairly thin ones, but the problem will be how to attach them to a seat or frame for the top of the chair.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In work we use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stretch_wrap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stretch wrap film&lt;/a&gt; that goes around pallets when loaded and that comes on tubes of about 2&quot;(5 cm) diameter, about 20&quot; lengths (50 cm) (From memory, might be off a bit) and those will make sturdy legs if you can fit them into your frame or seat strongly enough.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Those tubes should be available from any company near you that wraps their loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just using glue to attach a tube to a plain flat field of cardboard is likely going to result in a failure while using or even already in the building stages.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You are more likely to get it working when you carve a connection out of the cardboard of the seat or build up a core where the tube/leg slips around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2016-12-31T20:35:58.010" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T20:35:58.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2016-12-29T13:53:53.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are special pencils to be used with water, the lines of which will dissolve in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watercolour pencils&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  These are designed for use with watercolour techniques. The pencils can be used by themselves for sharp, bold lines. Strokes made by the pencil can also be saturated with water and spread with brushes.[70]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pencil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia page about pencils&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That might be enough for you, keeping the same lines you are used to but them fading into the paint.&#xA;But I guess you may still need to make your lines as light as possible and maybe remove them with a soft eraser, to leave the least colour before you are starting to paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can use the pencil line as your source of colour instead of the paint you use now.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Experimenting will teach you what works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But where you need to have some gear for the lines behind the paper methods, the water colour pencils will allow you to work everywhere with just one small set of pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T23:14:51.277" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T23:14:51.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2569" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-12-29T14:36:33.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diamond Dust, is a glitter-like material composed of bits of glass instead of cut pieces of plastic or paper. This makes the individual pieces larger, but gives a more brilliant sparkle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T20:14:38.110" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T20:14:38.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2570" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-12-29T14:36:33.003" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use of diamond dust in arts and crafts, not meant for questions about glitter." OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T20:14:45.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T20:14:45.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2399" CreationDate="2016-12-29T15:10:43.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering you're working with glass, have you thought about using window putty to secure the mirrors in the tube?  Children that age should be sensible enough to work with it safely (i.e. they're not likely to eat it etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see a guide for using it to secure a window here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://snapguide.com/guides/use-putty-for-window-glazing-simple-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://snapguide.com/guides/use-putty-for-window-glazing-simple-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://snapguide.com/guides/use-putty-for-window-glazing-simple-guide/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once dried it should last a long time, certainly until the kids are grown up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T15:10:43.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2016-12-29T15:41:26.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answers already here are great, but I want to call out one specific point that I haven't seen addressed yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tend to think of faces as being 'made up' of the collection of features, and so when most people start drawing faces, they focus on putting the features onto the face first, in the correct places, and only relatively late in the drawing do they start shading the cheeks, jawbone etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the work of artists who are more advanced, you will find that they most likely don't outline the features at all - instead they focus on the shapes and shadows, which makes it more realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The human brain has an amazing ability to detect faces and will see them even in random patterns, so don't worry about making your drawing look face-like.  It's finding the patterns of light and shade that are unique to &lt;em&gt;this specific face&lt;/em&gt; that will help you create a true likeness of a particular person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T15:41:26.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2016-12-29T21:23:55.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a LaTeX distribution on your computer and are not afraid of using a terminal the programme &lt;code&gt;pdfjam&lt;/code&gt; is quite handy for creating booklets from PDF files. You can choose the signature size and get as output a pdf file containing all pages ordered in a way so that when printed contains the pages for all the signatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information about this tool can be found via the following link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/rrthomas/pdfjam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/rrthomas/pdfjam&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="804" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2021-03-06T11:05:42.903" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T11:05:42.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2492" CreationDate="2016-12-30T05:35:36.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spine of the book pulls the pages back. If I break it I would expect the tree to fall apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are working with a single magazine that would be the source of your issue. The spine is holding the magazine together. You &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to break it. If not done with excessive force the back of the cover should still hold the magazine as one piece. Multiple breaks might be required if the magazine is large. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marthastewart.com/269354/magazine-christmas-trees&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions from Martha Stewart on making these&lt;/a&gt; lists this as the first step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open magazine and bend to break spine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Consider more than one magazine as well&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have at least two magazines with a similar number of pages you can put them back to back. You don't necessarily need to break the spine on it either for this to work. Although it might be better to do it before you work the magazine. Using two, or more, will help give a &amp;quot;full&amp;quot; appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T05:35:36.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2607" CreationDate="2016-12-30T07:30:32.780" Score="9" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time experimenting with resin. What &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2579/how-can-i-make-my-flowers-glow-in-the-dark?noredirect=1&amp;amp;lq=1&quot;&gt;I want to create is a glow in the dark version of preserved flower&lt;/a&gt; in resin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://chemistry.about.com/od/glowingprojects/a/Glowing-Flower.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;, it's possible to create glow in the dark flowers. So, in order to keep it lasting a long time I am planned to make an ornament like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L1EhUm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L1EhUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flower ornament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I want to use a glow in the dark flower instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, given my condition, getting my hands on the materials such as resin and the glow in the dark paint is not easy, so waste (or do &quot;let's just try it first&quot;) them is hardly an option. Therefore, I want to make sure that every step that I'll take basically works as I can't afford to experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is an amateur resin casting project I want to do this with as basic items as I can. I've been exploring the internet, but it seems the most common item do cast a resin is a silicone mold. Can it be done with either of these containers?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aqogA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aqogA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small Plastic Tub&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ddmg9m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ddmg9m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tupperware container&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because so far the only limitation that I have found (based on my limited research) is &quot;don't use a wax container&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1426" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-05-10T22:02:37.920" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T22:02:37.920" Title="Can I cast a glow in the dark flower in resin?" Tags="|preservation|flowers|mold-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7719" CreationDate="2016-12-30T11:48:25.023" Score="10" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of knitting a jumper 'freehand', i.e. without a pattern.  I started from the bottom edge, knit in the round up to the armholes, split the knitting, continued to the top of the shoulders, and then did a three-needle bind off to join them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that now I've got that far, I can clearly see a flaw in the earliest part of the jumper which wasn't apparent before.  For the first ball of yarn, I was knitting much more loosely, so the first few inches bell out a bit, sort of like a skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5Ne6CldQhfZJ0cWiQWvmBbVQLOhRheK68oBYtkKfvAbrqMSJJmNrkVLAipOkAF7XKo7WI0h0c24IefWrH_RTNriJR8IjdYQLMW5DPooXkRneuMuzRjneN98xqYtK0t_HFARSIA&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious solution is to unravel the offending portion and re-knit.  I have plenty of yarn, so wastage isn't an issue.  Normally I make socks or lace, so large pieces like this are less familiar to me and I did a bit of research to make sure I don't mess it up.  It seems I have two main options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Option 1:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Cut the bottom piece off just above where it flares out, re-knit the entire bottom portion as a separate piece, and graft it back on.  In one sense this is the simplest since it involves repeating the steps I've already done, except for the grafting.  I really don't like grafting, and the yarn I'm using is very fluffy and hard to read the stitches, so I can see this being a real nightmare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Option 2:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Again cut off the bottom piece, but just pick up the raw stitches and knit downwards until it's long enough.  I prefer this idea, but I know that this technique means that the new knitting will be offset by half a stitch.  The pattern is k2p2 rib, and I'm worried that there will be a visible line at the join.  I did try knitting a swatch to test it and I couldn't see a noticeable join, but like I said the yarn is very fluffy and it hides a lot of the detail so it's possible it would only be visible after I finished and it was hanging down, just like the original problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a lot of searching for the answer to this, and it's possible that I'm missing some search terms which would help find it, but so far I've had no success.  The closest I've found can be seen in this article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tricksyknitter.com/how-to-undo-your-knitting/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to undo your knitting&lt;/a&gt; - it does call out the problem of the offset stitches but doesn't specifically address how rib will behave in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry if this question is too long, I wanted to be sure it was clear enough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2016-12-30T14:00:30.417" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T12:00:10.143" Title="Will there be a noticeable offset if knitting rib from an unravelled edge?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2599" CreationDate="2016-12-30T13:08:10.090" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alekoproducts.com/ALEKO-SGM01-Heavy-Duty-Hand-Press-p/grommetset-ap.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aleko SGM01&lt;/a&gt; press with 5 grommet dies but I was also looking for a punch / cutting die set to put the holes in the fabric.  I have hammer-type punches now and would like to get away from that, is there anything out there?  Even if it's for another press I can look to see if the threads are teh same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1430" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T00:52:09.060" Title="Looking for a punch / cutting die set for Aleko SGM01 Press" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2576" CreationDate="2016-12-30T13:19:03.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're correct in that the fluffiness of the yarn and the colour of the jumper should hide the offset to some degree. Most people won't pick up on the change unless they are looking really closely (and really -- who does that?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techknitting.blogspot.ca/2012/12/grafting-ribbing-without-12-stitch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TECHknitting did a series on grafting that addressed ways to disguise this particular dilemma&lt;/a&gt;. If you haven't already read it, you may find it helpful. Between these tricks and the yarn itself, no one will ever know :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1264" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-12-30T13:56:24.973" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T13:56:24.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2608" CreationDate="2016-12-30T13:31:13.690" Score="7" ViewCount="1625" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the follow-up to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2575/amateur-question-of-resin-casting?noredirect=1#comment2530_2575&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know if there is any limitation or specific liquid characteristics on making a glow-in-the-dark flowers by imitating the techniques &lt;a href=&quot;http://chemistry.about.com/od/glowingprojects/a/Glowing-Flower.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on this thread&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j4rNF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j4rNF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Glow in the dark flowers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The available options are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;solution of phosphorous paint + water, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;solution of phosphorous powder mixed with water. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one of these options will work better or are there any other solutions to consider?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1426" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T20:17:56.487" Title="How can I make my flowers glow in the dark?" Tags="|flowers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-30T14:31:07.343" Score="6" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use nail polish in several of my crafting endeavors. Example would be its use in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/442/how-can-i-splice-the-tail-of-my-tie-and-have-it-not-look-terrible&quot;&gt;converting my ties to clip-on&lt;/a&gt; or even to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1854/44&quot;&gt;stop ribbons from fraying&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I was making construction paper jewels for my kids and testing finishes. I pullout my clear nail polish that I use and it was tacky. It didn't make for a great finish and was hard to apply. I cleaned the brush with acetone to remove the gum from there but it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I could add to the polish to thin it out or something I could do to give it more life? Yes, I &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; just buy some more but I am not a fan of waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T19:44:21.897" Title="How can I extend the life of clear nail polish?" Tags="|preservation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2016-12-30T14:36:35.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people use acetone to thin down their nail polish to its original consistency, but this is not recommended since it will cause it to dry out more quickly after application and can cause cracking in the finished result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of products available on the market; they are intended for extending the life of normal nail polish but I'm not aware of any reason they wouldn't work for clear nail polish also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dbeauty&amp;amp;field-keywords=nail+polish+thinner&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;search for 'nail polish thinner'&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be aware that shaking the bottle or pumping the brush in and out will cause it to thicken more quickly.  Ideally you should roll it between your palms before use instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1423" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-12-30T14:39:30.790" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T14:39:30.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2576" CreationDate="2016-12-30T17:17:57.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no problem with either strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1), this is what I did on my last jumper. I had miscalculated the row height and knitted it too long, so to shorten it, I cut it through, unravelled 5 cm and grafted back the old (ribbed) bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUd8L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUd8L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grafting was done about 3 rows from the rib. It is somewhat more visible in reality than on that bad quality picture, but it is still very good and not really noticeable when wearing it. It is certainly less noticeable than the Russian joins throughout the jumper. This is Norwegian wool (not merino), a fluffier yarn will be even more forgiving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 2), this happens all the time in machine knitting. Ribs are done on a different machine or by hand, and then grafted onto both the top and bottom part of flat knits, or live stitches on the bottom picked up and knitted in rib by hand. A very experienced knitter will be able to tell the difference after close inspection, but it is not inherently ugly even when noticed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option would be to do nothing. Many patterns have an intentional A-line fit or a waist-nipped fit, and your ribbed sweater will snug onto your body anyway, so it will be already wider at the hips. Sure, these fits are normally done by reducing stitches, but changing the needle size is also a legitimate way to do it. In your case, it was loose knitting instead of larger needles, but nobody can tell the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't forget - when you walk through the streets, maybe about 5% of the people you meet are even aware that sweaters can be raglan or set-in sleeves, and even among those, most will take no note of your jumper. And that's for a fairly visible clothing construction characteristic. If you feel self-conscious wearing a sweater with an offset rib, remember how insignificant it is for those who see you in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T17:17:57.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-30T18:00:13.520" Score="5" ViewCount="1750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started to draw and paint this famous historical picture of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raising_a_flag_over_the_Reichstag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raising a flag over the Reichstag Berlin 1945&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, and I am stuck with the red flag and blue haze in the far background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7uMIw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raising a flag over the Reichstag Berlin 1945&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using FaberCastell Polychromos 120 pencils:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xrgt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FaberCastell Polychromos 120&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have spent hours of trial and error, using GIMP on Mac OS X, but continue to have difficulty with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the entire red flag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the blue and gray haze in the far background&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering whether someone could help me choose the right colors.  Any advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1431" LastEditorUserId="4758" LastEditDate="2018-06-17T13:59:30.277" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T21:49:40.073" Title="What Faber-Castell Polychromos color codes do I need to paint this?" Tags="|painting|colored-pencils|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2016-12-30T18:38:08.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of ways that you can go about matching...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is trial and error testing on scrap paper. It's tried and true, really, because all you do is look at the color options in your set and get close, then work with additional blending with other colors to match up. Take notes. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more &quot;scientific&quot; way is to use an application like Photoshop, The GIMP, or similar that you can use to color sample. Use the color sampler tool to get the value of the color and match it up with this chart: &lt;a href=&quot;http://colour.granjow.net/fabercastell-polychromos.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://colour.granjow.net/fabercastell-polychromos.html&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;test the result&lt;/strong&gt; on scrap paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that in many cases, you're likely to be layering one color over another, so the sampler may not always be accurate. Test and use your own judgement, always, before applying to your art piece. Make sure your scrap paper is the same as the paper you're using for your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T18:38:08.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-30T19:02:45.860" Score="5" ViewCount="7366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently looking into make some snow globes and I would like to bond the acrylic insert of the snow globe with the metal top. Does anyone know a glue that can bond these two materials together? I have tried superglue and it did not hold when I put the cap on the globe. I have acrylic epoxy but it says that is dangerous to come in contact with metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1132" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T15:13:06.503" Title="Is there a special glue to use to bond acrylic and metal together?" Tags="|acrylic-glass|metal|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2585" CreationDate="2016-12-30T20:17:42.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a &lt;strong&gt;hot glue gun&lt;/strong&gt; for gluing these very dissimilar materials. Hot glue gives you a bit of work time to get the pieces situated correctly, and it works phenomenally well for holding tight even if the two materials may not mate together perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/if9ZF.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product Search: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=hot+glue+gun&amp;amp;biw=2558&amp;amp;bih=1437&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwier9DjuuzPAhXKbj4KHRJmCT8Q_AUIBigB&amp;amp;dpr=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hot Glue Gun&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never built a snow globe from scratch, but I've repaired a few, and this is exactly what I used to re-afix a snow globe that came lose from its stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2" LastEditorUserId="2" LastEditDate="2016-12-30T22:06:52.483" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T22:06:52.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-31T13:10:11.550" Score="7" ViewCount="12331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a finished wooden walking stick. I'd like to mount a few polished gemstones to it. What is the best product to use for mounting stones to wood surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1432" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2016-12-31T22:26:47.767" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T09:32:58.003" Title="How can I mount a polished stone to wood?" Tags="|adhesives|woodworking|stones|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2587" CreationDate="2016-12-31T14:56:13.183" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the Gorilla Glue(tm) product line.&#xA;The reason I like Glorilla Glue is its ability to bind dissimilar materials. &#xA;For me that meant I was able to fix my eye glasses when the frame broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorillatough.com/product-info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gorillatough.com/product-info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2016-12-31T15:23:45.910" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T15:23:45.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2587" CreationDate="2017-01-01T03:59:57.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Epoxy resin&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the stuff for the same reason &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2588/44&quot;&gt;John Vukelic's answer does&lt;/a&gt; so I would recommend it here as well. Even some of the cheap 2 parts should work perfectly fine for this. It is very good at bonding different material even when the surfaces are not perfectly mated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two parts about Gorilla Glue that need to be cautioned here is that it has expansive properties and is (as far as my experience with it goes) not a clear product once cured. These can both be mitigated with proper clamping and proper application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prep your surfaces&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are infinite ways I imagine that you could place your rocks so it would be hard to cover all angles of advice here but there are a couple of things I want you to look out for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Try&lt;/em&gt; and mate the surface of the stones and wood as best you can. Glues will fill the gaps but if you can keep the spaces as small as possible you can help prevent air and moisture pockets which could lead to complications in the future. Again... not a huge risk but worth putting in the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid crevasses where moisture will sit. Follow up from the last point be sure there is few places for water to sit or seep in. Depending on where your stick gets used and lives you don't want moisture build up to weaken the wood underneath. The wood is going to fail before the glue does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T03:59:57.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2603" CreationDate="2017-01-01T16:36:59.957" Score="8" ViewCount="4629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a very novice knitter trying to do a small blanket with a basic knit stitch. I am working with 100% cotton yarn and I have 16 inch bamboo needles. I cast on fine and where I am getting stuck is on the knit stitch. I do the first stitch and as I pull the loop onto the second needle I develop this slack in my piece. between the two needles that worsens with each stitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see  the image below, I am developing slack after the first stitch that grows with each iteration. I have just pulled the loop off my non working needle. I make my loops fairly tight as well so I do not think the slack is coming from there. After I put my working needle through the leg in the knit direction I pull the thread through and I tighten the thread going towards my yarn ball. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am beginner but this is preventing me from even getting a scrap knit together let alone a real project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the topic of yarn and needle size, I have really long needles and made the amateur move of just grabbing a set and throwing out the wrapping so I cannot give you a diameter either. The yarn brand is Sugar 'n Cream 100% cotton, it does not list a needle size on the package. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for the advice thus far... I am determined to get something going eventually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CArP1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CArP1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of Problem after first stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastEditorUserId="1390" LastEditDate="2017-01-02T18:25:33.727" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T01:29:59.280" Title="Keep yarn slack from developing in my work as I perform a basic knit stitch" Tags="|knitting|yarn|casting-on|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2590" CreationDate="2017-01-01T21:58:03.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slack in the work between the needles will even out with the next stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slack in the yarn you are using to make the new stitches should be pulled tight when you make your stitch. While your attention is on it you will find that your new stitches might look different from the one you made before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is mostly better to knit a small piece that is not going to be used for anything before starting a proper project.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In that trial piece you can make all beginners mistakes and work till your stitches are even.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then there is time to start your first real project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with Belle that your yarn is not in scale with your needles.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think you will feel better if you get a thick wool or fake wool in a light or bright colour, you do not need much, the smallest amount they sell.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Second hand shops, charity shops, trift shops often have some that people donated, new and with the wrapper. Get one that ask for the size of needles you have.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And start with no more than 20 stitches to get to know knitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slack as is in your picture is what I would expect in my own knitting, in the next row I would not let it grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you do not make it easy on yourself with your choice of yarn and needles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-01-02T19:08:38.963" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T19:08:38.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2590" CreationDate="2017-01-02T10:15:45.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What Willeke says is good advice. Also: make sure you use the right size needle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your yarn will indicate what needle size you should use. This can either be in mm, UK sizes or US sizes. My current yarn says 7-8mm needles for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different people have different knitting styles. I personally like knitting tight. I will prefer the larger size in the range. Actually, I even went up to 10mm for my project, to create a more open effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing the right size needle will make your knitting feel more natural. Experiment a few rows with your needles until you feel you have the right ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1436" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T10:15:45.703" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2594" CreationDate="2017-01-02T10:39:17.837" Score="5" ViewCount="5722" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4s5L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4s5L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to figure out what is a mural or what is street art and the difference between the two (if there is one). What is the difference between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be such kind of art be labelled ? Graffiti, street art or something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1437" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-01-02T14:03:07.830" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T12:13:55.027" Title="What is the difference between a mural and street-art?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2593" CreationDate="2017-01-02T14:42:03.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;mural&lt;/strong&gt; is visual art that is applied directly to a wall. (While most art ends up &lt;em&gt;hanging&lt;/em&gt; on a wall, a mural is &lt;em&gt;integral&lt;/em&gt; to the wall and can't be, say, moved to a different wall.) Typically it involves paint, but can also be mixed media (e.g., a mosaic). It can be inside or outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Street art&lt;/strong&gt; refers to a work of art that is in a public place, often executed without official permission. It may or may not have a political message associated with it (the work in your Question, for example, conveys a message).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A painting on a wall can be both mural and street art! But a mural might not be street art (if the artist is paid by the city), and street art might not be a mural (it could be on a sidewalk, it could be a sculpture, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unsanctioned nature of street art means there is some overlap with &lt;strong&gt;graffiti&lt;/strong&gt;, which is drawing or painting or engraving that is done without permission. A bored teenager who tags my mailbox is performing vandalism, not art. Depending on aesthetic or political preference, some street art may be designated graffiti by some viewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T14:42:03.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2585" CreationDate="2017-01-02T16:35:08.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a product called pl. I don't actually know of something it wont hold together. Finding a craft friendly applicator might be tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*additional note: they have a spray product that I haven't personally used, but could be worth a shot.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/14/17/a_cntct_high/overview/Loctite-High-Performance-Spray-Adhesive.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/14/17/a_cntct_high/overview/Loctite-High-Performance-Spray-Adhesive.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1439" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T16:35:08.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2593" CreationDate="2017-01-02T18:44:21.840" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, a mural is any art which is applied directly to a wall, often a painting or drawing although the term can also be applied to sculptural reliefs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Street art is a bit more general and is usually used for art which takes place in public spaces. As well as semi-permanent media like murals, this can also apply to performances or temporary media like pavement drawing. The term can also be applied to things like portrait drawing which take place on the street, although in this sort of context, the term 'street artist' might be more appropriate than street art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically, graffiti generally implies casual drawing or painting on public or private structures, often without permission. However, it is also associated with a set of painting styles using aerosol cans, often on quite a large scale. As with all definitions of art, what is and is not intended as 'art' is debatable and mutable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many western cultures, street art has associations with urban subcultures and political protest, although again, it is becoming increasingly mainstream, and there are a few examples, notably &lt;a href=&quot;http://banksy.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Banksy&lt;/a&gt;, where it is pretty much part of the mainstream elite art market...although again what this actually &lt;em&gt;means&lt;/em&gt; is a whole other debate in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual style and medium can vary a lot. From the context of the question, it seems like you are thinking mostly about images painted on walls, etc., but most cultural forms, dance, poetry, music, theatre, etc., have some 'street' version which may be either more or less 'underground' or be part of more mainstream cultural as seasonal or festival events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn_bombing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yarn Bombing&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guerrilla_gardening&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guerrilla Gardening&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also some overlap with &lt;em&gt;public art&lt;/em&gt; (typically large scale sculpture), although &lt;em&gt;street art&lt;/em&gt; implies something less formal and less permanent. Similarly 'street' tends to imply a more urban setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-12-28T19:17:30.897" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T19:17:30.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2577" CreationDate="2017-01-02T20:09:03.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are hole-punching dies for grommet machines. Specifically, they're sold as cutting dies for grommet machines, as you've mentioned, and also hole-piercing dies. They screw in to the press the same way the grommet dies do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the threading for the attachment of the die to the press is not universal, there can be differences between brands according to user reports. On top of that, ALEKO doesn't include any specs to go by (or even a product manual), making it more difficult to answer if Stimpson-compatible dies, for instance, will work with this product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cutting die for your size (#2 for instance), will work, in theory, on your press, but you may have to try to obtain one from different manufacturers. ALEKO themselves do not supply anything other than the 5 grommet dies #0-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkpzXtXJ9pE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I have asked ALEKO&lt;/a&gt;, on the only outlet where it seems they reply publicly to users, whether or not additional dies are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-01-03T00:52:09.060" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T00:52:09.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-02T23:34:44.020" Score="6" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how to get the velvet-texture soft furry finish that is seen on some toys. A good example of this would be the Sylvanian Families toys (as pictured.) What materials and techniques are used and how could they be made without factory equipment if possible?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CmmB2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CmmB2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1443" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:39:22.550" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T17:39:22.550" Title="How to get velvety soft finish on hard toys?" Tags="|medium-selection|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2600" CreationDate="2017-01-03T02:18:28.980" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Flocking&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, flocking is the application of thousands of miniature fibers onto a surface. I'm fairly certain this is the general approach for what you are seeing on those dolls pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flocking is used to give something that velvety/soft appearance and feel. It's also very easy to do and gives your project a professional look. Flocking is used in a variety of different crafting genres, other than dolls, as well e.g. miniature terrain and bandsaw boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tools and materials&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this you only really need a few tools. Flocking fibres, some sort of applicator (optional but it really helps with uniform distribution) and a work space to contain free fibres. A very basic explanation is you paint or glue a surface and &lt;em&gt;before it dries&lt;/em&gt; apply flocking fibres to the surface. Using paint of the same colour as your flocking can help give a uniform appearance and help hide the colour of the working surface and gaps in the adhered flocking fibres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically flocking is applied as a single colour. For the sections that have multiple colours you would need to try and mask the areas you don't want to colour. An easier solution is to paint, where you already applied flock, in your desired colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mKGxEuXHLM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some people even make their own flocking to help keep costs down.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T01:37:53.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2017-01-03T11:43:29.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have (or can export) pdf format, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pdflabs.com/tools/pdftk-server/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pdftk (server)&lt;/a&gt; is designed for generic pdf page manipulation.  It's a commandline tool and for what you want you mainly need to feed it a list of page numbers, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michaelm.info/blog/?p=1375&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as shown here&lt;/a&gt;.  You could easily script the page number sequencing (I'd use python) for large numbers of pages, though I'm sure this has been done before (but I can't find it at the moment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T11:43:29.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2590" CreationDate="2017-01-03T21:21:32.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the image you've shown it looks like you're on the first row of knitting after casting on, and it also looks like you've used a loop (a.k.a. backwards loop) cast-on method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's common to get an ever-increasing amount of slack on the first row when using this kind of cast-on. A loop cast-on is easy to do, but hard to do well because the tension used when casting on is fiddly. If you keep knitting this piece the knit stitches will even out, but they might not even out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend starting with a long tail cast-on. It will take a little longer to get the hang of, but you won't have the slack problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1197" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-01-04T01:29:59.280" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T01:29:59.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2615" CreationDate="2017-01-04T12:07:01.143" Score="6" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a homemade rerooting tool as found on google somewhere. It's an exacto knife with the blade removed, filled with some cork and a needle stuck in with the sharp end. I cut the eye of the needle to form an irregular V shape. I let the needle stick out so that I have room to push through the holes in the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is the needle keeps breaking. I need quite a small needle to make sure the cut eye fits in the holes in the head, but the smaller the needle the thinner the needle. Some of the smaller holes require more pressure, causing the needle to break. I went through a full pack of needles already and I need some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to keep my needle from breaking?&#xA;Would wrapping it with something like ductape, paper, fabric or anything give it some extra strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can add a picture later if I am able to buy some more needles.&#xA;I made a sketch for now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I had for the current length&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Lk9N.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Lk9N.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I think the next one should be a little shorter:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cob3v.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cob3v.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-01-04T16:44:04.937" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T18:08:40.250" Title="Rerooting dolls; needle keeps breaking?" Tags="|tool-selection|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2575" CreationDate="2017-01-05T16:13:45.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few comments about the problem as a whole, before I address your specific question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are attempting to encapsulate something in a clear resin shell.  That shell lacks any distinct shape, being comprised of flat planes and soft organic curves.  It does not contain any sharply detailed features or surface textures.  In short, the shell probably does not contain any aspects which need to be captured by an advanced casting medium like silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIj_I6mW5QQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Casting a mold using a mixture of Gelatin/Glycerin&lt;/a&gt;.  This avoids much of the cost of casting silicone.  Silicone is better in my experience for capturing details, but for your project, gelatin will probably work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a different subject, clear resins are notorious for capturing air bubbles which may detract from the look that you are pursuing.  There are techniques for reducing those bubbles but the only way to completely eliminate them is to use a vacuum chamber.  Here are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/make-a-manual-vacuum-pump-for-under-$20-by-convert/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions on creating a cheap vacuum chamber&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for your actual question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The containers which you show are suitable for holding your mold.  I prefer the red Wall's container because it seems to widen near the top.  That will make removing the mold from the container easier and leave the container intact between castings.  That way, once you have cut your original out of the mold, you can return the empty mold to the container to support its original shape during the application and curing of the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2019-07-22T21:11:45.803" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T21:11:45.803" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2579" CreationDate="2017-01-06T20:17:56.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lack both the chemistry and botany knowledge to address you question directly.  @ChrisH's comment suggests that your phosphorus pigments won't wick up through the stems like the compounds in the referenced article do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you considered applying the pigment directly to the flower petals using either a paintbrush or airbrush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are planning to encapsulate the flower in clear resin, you don't have to worry about the paint rubbing off of the petals.  How it gets to where you want it is less important that how it looks once it is in place.  To that end, I would recommend a very light (high-air) spray of a very dilute pigment using an airbrush with a high-number needle and nozzle (3 or above).  Mist the flower with the glowing paint and test the results in darkness after each coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skipping that idea, there is an immersion technique at the end of the referenced article which might work even if the stem-based approach fails with the pigment you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-01-06T20:17:56.487" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2610" CreationDate="2017-01-08T17:13:27.957" Score="6" ViewCount="1063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make a quilt with a design such as the one in the picture:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2SZ5n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2SZ5n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that normally, when a quilt is just made up of squares or rectangles, you can just stitch a bunch of lines up and down and across it to attach the backing and it will still look good because the geometry doesn't get broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not so sure that it will work with a design like this. The stray vertical and horizontal lines would look awkward here (I feel like) ... I know that another way is to just stitch again along where all the pieces connect. My question here would be as follows. If the backing is black, would it be better to use black thread to go over along the edges of all the pieces when connecting the backing? This way there wouldn't be an awkward design on the back of the quilt, but there would be ugly black thread on the front. Or, should i use the same color thread as on one of the neighboring pieces? This way the front would still look ok, but the back would have a strange colorful design...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other (better) ways to do this?&#xA;Is it possible to not attach the backing at all, other than around the perimeter or would that not work so well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1469" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-01-10T15:05:20.250" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T19:26:55.200" Title="What is the best way to attach backing on a quilt with irregular pattern?" Tags="|sewing|quilting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2017-01-08T18:00:03.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a perfect example for 'depending on your taste'.&#xA;I agree with you that vertical and horizontal lines don't do justice to the pattern, but then again, others may disagree.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That said, if I were to sew backing, I'd follow (some of) the contours of the cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If the backing is black, would it be better to use black thread to go over along the edges of all the pieces when connecting the backing? Or, should i use the same color thread as on one of the neighboring pieces?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you're sewing with a sewing machine, you can use two different colours of yarn, one for the front, one for the back. When sewing by hand... I'd choose a colour matching the front side for that's the side you see most. And make sure the stitches at the back side are as small as possible so the cat shape would be more apparent than the colour of the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are there any other (better) ways to do this? Is it possible to not attach the backing at all, other than around the perimeter or would that not work so well?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Depends on the size of the quilt. But since this is a free form quilt pattern, why not attach the backing free form as well? Either by random 'squiggles' or a more regular pattern. Do an internet search for 'quilt free form backing pattern' to get some inspiration. You could also just fill the black background with a free form pattern and follow the outlines of the pieces that form the cat itself. Or use a different (free form) pattern for the cat. The possibilities are endless&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T18:00:03.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2557" CreationDate="2017-01-08T21:05:39.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be woven of three different &quot;diameters&quot; of material.  Two of these &quot;diameters&quot; appears to be similar to what one would create by taking two different widths of material, as is the method in creating rag-rolled rugs.  The third &quot;diameter&quot; appears to be multi-strand yarn being used to bind the other two together into rows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T21:05:39.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2456" CreationDate="2017-01-08T21:35:45.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allowing the underlying material to remain exposed is largely a matter of preference.  Generally, a low count Aida, will look unfinished if not completely cross-stitched, whereas, a high count Aida, decorative canvases, and linens will tend to look more &quot;finished&quot; without a cross-stitched background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T21:35:45.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2017-01-09T04:20:09.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to recommend an alternate, decorative option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Quilting&quot; is specifically the process of stitching together the different layers of fabric to form the finished &quot;quilt&quot;. While it's true that many quilts obscure this stitching, some of my favorite quilts emphasize it and have fun with it. I had an animal quilt when I was a baby where different creatures were hidden in the quilting. While this is &quot;easier&quot; to do by hand than with a machine, depending on the type of machine you have, you might be able to do this, at least in simple patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at this pillow, which is similar to your design. While it doesn't have hidden animals the way my quilt as a child did, you can see that they've had fun with the quilting and have emphasized it with a lighter color thread and actually made it part of the fun of this pillow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9YXk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9YXk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cat Friends Pillow&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ohfransson.com/all-projects/cat-friends-pillow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be more work than you're looking to do (provided you don't have one of those fancy quilting sewing machines) but I'd bet it would look really awesome. Since it's a blanket, you could certainly do a larger pattern but it might be an interesting option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T04:20:09.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2605" CreationDate="2017-01-09T18:08:40.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try a long, somewhat flexible needle for basting beads. I think it's less likely to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T18:08:40.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="598" CreationDate="2017-01-09T23:45:47.443" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Store any very vaporise liquid at Cold temperatures.  Temperature effects vaporization.  For turpentine a freezer is best. I'd advise any one to first switch it to  another container of known high quality. Off the shelf products may have been damaged in transit from factory to the shelf. I think glass is better than metal cans. No leaky seams. Only fill about 3/4 full. If food stuff is also stored in the freezer a double layer, inner enclosed in an outer container should be used for the chemical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="1473" LastEditDate="2017-01-14T18:32:13.087" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T18:32:13.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2017-01-10T19:55:38.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also clear on invisible thread you could use on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By following the lines on the top you &quot;stitch in the ditch&quot; also referred to as SID.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also fill in a triangle, for example w/ sequentially smaller and&#xA;smaller triangles that &quot;echo&quot; the main triangle &quot;ear&quot;, shall we say.  Or, echo&#xA;quilt all the shapes by going 1/4&quot; smaller (or whatever you choose) each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this is called FMQ-ing or Free Motion Quilting.  Put that in Google and see the tens of thousands of ideas.  SID is frequently done by beginners (which I kind of still am).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1480" LastActivityDate="2017-01-10T19:55:38.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-12T10:35:48.847" Score="7" ViewCount="890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w7oHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pyramid made out of empty toiler paper rolls&lt;/a&gt;. I'm creating the pyramid as a bunch of rows, with the first row being a singe tube, the second one has two tubes connected, etc. (When it falls over this makes it a lot easier to reassemble, and makes it more portable (although at 36 rows it's sort of impossible to move.).)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w7oHmm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w7oHmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of Tubes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click link in first sentence for full-sized image.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I need something good to keep the rows together. I've tried using&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Staples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these was insufficient in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tape&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMMo1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMMo1m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tape application&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was easily the worst, and also my first. I took two rolls, and a length of tape, and put the tape on the ends, the thin part. Sort of like &lt;code&gt;[/][\]&lt;/code&gt;. On both sides.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This didn't work well, as the tape didn't always stick. It also got dirty and fell off. And when the pyramid fell, the tape would often fall off, defeating the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2bhWc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2bhWcm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Glue Application&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was okay (my second try). I glued the rolls to each other by the sides, sort of like &lt;code&gt;[]|[]&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This worked... meh. The glue took a long time to dry. When the pyramid fell over, the rows would sometimes snap. Not often, but as the glue got older, it started to break more often. And it was very, very, hard to move the position after it dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Staples&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WHBbT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WHBbTm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Staples Application&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be the best so far. I staple them twice, like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[]-[]&#xA;[]-[]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(that's two tubes, not four)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't take that much effort, and they usually hold. But they tend to fall out/bend if I leave the row bent for any length of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there something else that I can use that&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;will hold if the row is bent&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;is easy to apply&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;is readily available&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;won't make a mess?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1482" LastEditorUserId="1482" LastEditDate="2017-01-14T20:43:08.817" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T20:43:08.817" Title="What should I use to connect my empty toilet paper rolls?" Tags="|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2618" CreationDate="2017-01-12T12:41:24.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can tie them by using thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[--][--][--][--][--][--][--][--]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1483" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T16:33:40.560" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T16:33:40.560" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2609" CreationDate="2017-01-12T21:48:05.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is a bit confusing--you use the term &quot;backing,&quot; which actually refers to the BACK of the quilt--a lining--as well as what is on the front but not the main design, which would be BACKGROUND. The answer is different for the 2 processes. Also, you need to differentiate between PIECING--sewing various sections of fabric together--and QUILTING, which is the sewing done after piecing to hold the 3 layers of front, padding, and backing together. It also depends on how the quilt will be used, how big it will be and the fact that you've never done this before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is to be used in an everyday manner, you will need to QUILT closely on the FRONT or the padding may bunch up when it is laundered. That also means you need to use machine-washable fabric that is pre-washed before you begin piecing the front. If you want a black BACKGROUND surrounding the cat design, it can be pieced to the cat or the cat can be appliqueed onto the background. If you want the QUILTING lines to show up on the FRONT or BACK, use a contrasting color to the color of fabric, which could be any color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a pattern? This is not an easy design, even for someone who is experienced with a sewing machine and quilting; it's a lot of difficult, time-consuming piecing and it all must lie flat for the quilt to work. If you want to do a cat's head, I suggest something much simpler, like the illustration in a previous answer. To make it even easier--and doable--make it as a small wall-hanging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't you pick a 3-4 piece section of the cat, sew it and make it lie flat to see whether you can do this?&#xA;You need to attach a backing more than just around the edge because the pieced cat is heavier than the backing and the background and will pouch and sag when washed. The fabric may also shrink making the cat look odd. How big will it be? It needs to be quilted every 3-4&quot; at minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="647" LastEditorUserId="647" LastEditDate="2017-01-14T19:26:55.200" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T19:26:55.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2618" CreationDate="2017-01-13T03:10:37.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Hot Glue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think a hot glue gun should work fairly easy for this. It would be simple and quick to apply to the tubes. Dries fairly fast e.i. minutes instead of hours compared to the time the white glue would have taken. You wouldn't need to apply too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a gun and sticks easily from craft stores and even dollar stores for cheaper. Even the cheap ones should be fine for this. There are better glue stick out there so depending on how permanent you want this structure to be you might want to opt for better glues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside to this would be that some glue guns tend to leave glue wisps or tails after applying. I could see this being annoying but it would not change the outcome of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have time in the near future I will try an make a smaller scale model of what you are going for there in case there is any trepidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T03:23:34.887" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2618" CreationDate="2017-01-13T15:15:05.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paperclips (even if just from behind, though from both front and behind would be sturdier; each tube would be clipped to all the tubes adjacent to it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit: oh, btw, the ends of the paperclips should penetrate through the adjacent walls of the tubes for greater stability of the lower rows as the pyramid gets taller]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1465" LastEditorUserId="1465" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T15:42:30.640" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T15:42:30.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2618" CreationDate="2017-01-13T18:13:12.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Brass fastener / split pin might do the job. Probably similar to staples, but as they're thicker, maybe they're less likely to bend and fall out.&lt;br&gt; And of course, you can combine any of the mentioned methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T18:13:12.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="330" CreationDate="2017-01-14T22:26:37.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being someone who is always experimenting with new ideas on out-of-the-ordinary crafting / sewing projects such as this awesome one you have chosen, I have some thoughts.  In this situation I would think about drilling into the back outside edge of the key button itself, perhaps just two holes, on each on opposite sides of the square.  It seems to me that {a} the back edge would be much easier to drill into accurately than trying to get a decent hole in those little inner fins and tubes, and {b} edge holes would be much more accessible for sewing the keys onto a flat surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with most projects, a huge percentage of success is having the right tools.  I think in your case, it will be important to have a small clamp-on crafter's vise, such as this one, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/product_view/TDSONLINESTORE/11216024/clamp_on_mini_crafters_vise_cast_iron_opens_2_1_8_inch/indie_supplies/tools?gclid=CjwKEAiAtefDBRDTnbDnvM735xISJABlvGOv6kBQeC60xh47jK8Q7rfW4e-dBeNib3p_uxLuLpS1eRoCdMzw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;which is a model available at Etsy,&lt;/a&gt; and similarly should be readily available at your local craft store:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyLro.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyLro.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To safely drill holes in such small objects: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark with a pencil where you want the holes, at least 1/8&quot; from the edge for a 1/16&quot; hole, or 3/16&quot; from the edge for a 1/8&quot; hole.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place some protective padding such as felt over the vise ends, so as not to scratch your keys.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear safety goggles while drilling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure the key in a vise with the desired edge facing up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a sharp object such as a nail, awl or center punch, carefully carve a tiny dimple at the mark, to keep the drill bit from wandering as you begin to drill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill using a 1/16&quot; or 1/8&quot; bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a very small rat-tail file to smooth out burrs and sharp edges. (If you can't find one that small at your local hardware store, try a local beading shop.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thread choice will be an important consideration, and in this method would depend on how smoothly the edges of the holes end up to be. If they seem fairly smooth, I would just go with good old quilting thread.  Light weight fish line or transparent nylon sewing thread could be a more abrasion-resistant alternative. The advantage of quilting thread of course would be the ability to match the thread color to the background fabric.  Fish line being transparent could also be considered an advantage.  The choice of thread would somewhat depend on your sewing skills for making the stitches invisible, and how invisible you feel the stitches need to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that sewing the keys to strips of fabric which match the background fabric, then attaching the strips to the garment, could be the most efficient way to apply the keys to the garment.  Looking closely at Julien David jacket, most of the keys do appear to be aligned in rows, so this method might have been part of their approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be so interested to see what you end up finding to be the best method of attachment, and how your project turns out!  I am new to StackExchange, so I don't know about such things, but I hope you can post some sort of outcome report with pics?  At any rate, it looks like an extremely fun and creative project: happy sewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2017-01-14T22:40:26.360" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T22:40:26.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2524" CreationDate="2017-01-15T00:33:45.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to my best understanding of your question, you're looking for whether there is overlap between the stitches that you can perform between the two different techniques. The answer to this question is, no, there isn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stitches you commonly perform in knitting: &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Casting on - not done in crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knit stitch - not done in crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purl stitch - not done in crochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yarn over - technically you could say that you do this in crochet, as you have to wrap the yarn over the hook to do, say, a double crochet, but the result is completely different.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stitches you commonly perform in crochet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Chain stitch - technically possible but inefficient in knitting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single crochet - not done in knitting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double crochet - not done in knitting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treble crochet - not done in knitting&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Etc. (There are many different stitches in crochet that are not able to be performed in knitting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since crochet is done on one hook and knitting is done on two needles, the skill set for one doesn't overlap very much to the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a basic compare and contrast between the two, here's my two cents: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Crochet&lt;/b&gt;: pros: goes faster, has greater variety of stitches, easier to change colors&#xA;Cons: harder on your wrists, makes a stiffer, more bulky fabric, can't fix a mistake several rows down without ripping it all out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Knitting&lt;/b&gt;: pros: can do by feel (in the dark or with eyes closed), easier on wrists (less repetitive movement), can correct a mistake many rows down by undoing just that section and knitting it back up, makes a softer fabric that conforms better to the body for hats, sweaters, gloves, socks, etc. &#xA;Cons: slower than crochet, takes longer to master&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both: can make any shape, can make lace, can work with color&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, both techniques can to some extent replicate the look created by the other, but never to the extent that someone who knew both techniques couldn't instantly look at a piece and tell if it was knitted or crocheted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this was helpful to you. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1489" LastEditorUserId="1489" LastEditDate="2017-01-15T00:39:18.493" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T00:39:18.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2061" CreationDate="2017-01-15T02:53:00.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I try to make sketches with a fountain pen on printer paper, it keeps smudging&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the pleasures and annoyances of fountain pens is that your writing (or drawing) experience is quite customizable.  Specifically, the &lt;em&gt;particular&lt;/em&gt; pen, ink, and paper all matter in this subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nibs come in a wide variety of sizes.  An extra fine nib lets out much less ink than a stub nib, and more ink can mean more time to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different inks have different physical properties, so some dry quicker than others.  They can also absorb into the paper easier, which helps prevent smudging (but may produce feathering you don't want).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And paper changes smudgeability quite a bit too; if it's glossier, the ink will stay on the surface more, and thus get smudged easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment with different combinations of all these, and you may find something that acts more like you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1490" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T02:53:00.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2628" CreationDate="2017-01-15T17:58:37.050" Score="11" ViewCount="2438" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I find out how to weave my own shoelaces. I presume it must be some sub-field of either macrame or lace making. In fact, the word alone shoe-LACE would suggest that lace is involved. My limited understanding of lace making is that it is a knot-making science like crochet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, the types of shoelace I would be wanting to make would be thick round strings, which I guess would be made by weaving a yarn in a tube around a core of some kind, or perhaps the core is woven, too. I don't know. How do I get started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-10-10T03:37:30.540" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T19:17:22.377" Title="How can I braid my own shoelaces?" Tags="|weaving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2627" CreationDate="2017-01-15T18:11:47.060" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The name and way of making&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The English word &lt;strong&gt;shoelace&lt;/strong&gt; is a bit old fashioned, from the time strips of leather were used, which are still called lace in the knotting world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most shoelaces are braided these days.&#xA;The American shoestring is more appropriate, as long as you take braided string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern shoelaces are braided, in the round, around a core for the round ones and without a core for the flat ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Braiding by hand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://knopen.ismijnhobby.nl.bales.id.au/tables/8round_table.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here (my own site, not commercial)&lt;/a&gt; you find instructions how to braid with 8 strands, in the round. This is not the only site online with those instructions. If you want different ones, (or if the site is down) you can google for instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beginner braider you will likely not be able to braid that many strands out of the hand, even as an experienced braider I have to work up to it.&#xA;If you want to work up to it, &lt;a href=&quot;http://knopen.ismijnhobby.nl.bales.id.au/tables/braid-text_table.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here you find several easier braids with which to work up to it.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Machines do not use just 8 strands, 16 strands are more likely, often 16 groups of two or more strands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want to braid 'proper' shoe laces by hand, you may want to look into working on a disk.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The disks are available under the name of Kumihimo disks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;'Proper' Kumihimo is done on a wooden frame in the shape of a stool.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumihimo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; has a good photo of a traditional set-up as well as a good basic description of what the different items are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And even with kumihimo disks or frames you will have to work up to a braid as intricate as shoelaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4W3W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4W3W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;young boy braiding on a kumihimo frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJrzL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJrzL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;second photo of same boy braiding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Braiding on a kumihimo frame by a young boy.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Photos cropped to protect anonimity. Photos by Willeke, free to use for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Making it fat and round&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Whatever way you shape the braid, for the fat round laces you will also have to learn to braid around a core. This is a string of the right diameter or, more often used in commercial braids, a bunch of thin string that are kept together at the top of the braid and often suspended above or below for you to braid around.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the photos there would be a set of strands suspended above the frame and allowed to drop into the braid at the same speed as braiding.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With a braiding disk you would hold the strands and move them around as you are braiding.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And with hand-held braids you would tie the core with the outer layer to your fixed point and braid around them. In the first link I give the core is mentioned in the instructions and is part of the pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weaving&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Braiding with this many strands is closely related to weaving, the resulting string is a weave, but in the round with the strands on the diagonal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you would twist a series of strands around a tube, spiralling one way, you would be able to weave the other spiral in, by going over one, under one, all the way.&#xA;It will be hard to get it tight and neath and you would likely have to tighten the weave later.&#xA;The core would go through or instead of the tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having done the kind of work, I have to say that learning to braid is much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aglets, the hard bits at the ends&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For 'real' shoelaces you also need to add &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/agletrepair.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;aglets, I direct you to the site of Ian Fieggen&lt;/a&gt; to find out how to make them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Would I do it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would not make my own shoelaces, even though I have the knowledge and skills. Laces in the shops are relatively cheap, durable and available in many different variations and designs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Making your own is going to be a lot of work, likely to result in lower quality and lower durability.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In fact, it is the other way around, I use commercially made shoelaces to train myself in braiding, they are very handy for that. Come in many nice colours and have aglets, the hard bits at the end that protect the ends and aid in feeding through strands to test the weaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I know&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am a member of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.igkt.net/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;International Guild of Knot Tyers&lt;/a&gt;, whom do include braiding as part of our field of interest. My personal interest in braiding goes back at least 40 years, likely longer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is also an &lt;a href=&quot;https://thebraidsociety.wildapricot.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;international organization for braiders, the Braid Society&lt;/a&gt; I am not a member but I do know several people who are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS, while I do not make my own shoe laces, I know people who make their own out of commercial string, see my answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/18800/15142&quot;&gt;The Great Outdoors.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T11:43:07.700" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T11:43:07.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1967" CreationDate="2017-01-16T00:44:20.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you haven't yet printed the map, I can still make my suggestion: have you thought of printing it onto fabric, instead of paper?  Fabric, depending on what type you choose, has a certain amount of stretch, and is far less likely to tear when wet and being handled, than paper.  I wouldn't go so far as to print it onto a knit fabric, but perhaps a lightweight woven cotton.  It would likely involve quite a bit experimentation before committing, but fabric for a craft such as this should not be expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tutorials all over the internet on this.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Inkjet-Printing-on-Fabric/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is one over at Instructables.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, sounds like a very cool project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2017-01-16T01:00:58.287" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T01:00:58.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="193" CreationDate="2017-01-16T04:15:32.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One simple skill every fiber artist needs in their bailiwik is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;how to wind a center-pull ball of yarn - see the gorgeous one in the bottom photo&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is &lt;em&gt;Highly Recommended&lt;/em&gt; as a necessity, or at a minimum, very helpful, when {a} your yarn purchase is in the form of a loose skein (problems with this are explained by the photos below) rather than wound at the factory ready to pull from the center already (such as a cake or center-pull skein); {b} you are recovering or neatening leftover yarn or are gleaning / re-purposing yarn which needs to be wound; {c} any of the above &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; your knitting environs require that you keep the yarn closer to your person, that is, when it is not practical to use a yarn bowl or yarn bowl alternative (e.g. one of many possible examples is knitting while walking.)  Or {d} like myself, you just enjoy knitting from a center-pull ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what a plain skein of yarn, straight off the spinner, looks like (image ala Craftsy): you cannot knit/crochet straight from this skein, unless you wind it into a ball, or knit/crochet with it straight off a swift (an option not covered in this post):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RW8BF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RW8BF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is that same plain skein of yarn, with label and keeper-ties removed, ready to wind into a ball (photo again ala Craftsy):&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Q1j5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Q1j5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been winding center pull balls from plain skeins somewhat successfuly for years, using the following age-old method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BASIC METHOD: HOW TO WIND A BALL OF YARN&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carefully remove the label from the skein and un-twist / un-knot the skein until it is a long loose loop. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have someone hold the skein stretched somewhat tautly on extended arms / hands (as shown in the second photo above), or place it over the back of a chair, while you wind the yarn into a ball.  The yarn must not fall off the person's hands, or the chair, or you will have quite a tangled mess.  (Or, the best of all worlds would be to use a yarn swift... That would have to be covered in a separate article...)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carefully, snip the keeper-ties, and find the two loose ends of yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decide which of the two loose ends seems to come off the skein easiest, and (for right handed people) hold a few inches of that end in your left hand, then begin winding the yarn loosely around two extended fingers of your left hand, until you have created a little ball.  Make sure that throughout this process you do not lose that yarn-end, as it is the whole idea behind a center-pull ball.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull your fingers out of the little ball, and continue to wind the rest of the yarn, evenly and somewhat more tightly but not &lt;em&gt;overly&lt;/em&gt; tightly, onto the small ball you started. Change angles frequently, which will help the ball be stable and nicely round. When you reach the end of the yarn, wind it several times horizontally around the ball, somewhat tightly, and tie it off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You should easily be able to pull the yarn from the center of the ball for your knitting or crocheting project.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/08/wind-yarn-into-a-ball/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a photo tutorial of this basic ball-winding method, at Craftsy.com&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This basic method is a great start, but I was often frustrated by the balls producing tangled clumps, when the yarn was supposed to pull out smoothly.  I recently refined my technique after finding &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/IKA07iB0KFo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;this extremely helpful youtube, the second half of which shows how to wind a ball of yarn using a medicine bottle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MEDICINE-BOTTLE VARIATION FOR WINDING A CENTER-PULL YARN BALL:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The steps for using a medicine bottle are the same as for the basic method described above, with the following changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Step 4: Instead of just holding onto the starting end of the yarn, you place several inches of that starting end into an empty, clean small-size (up to an inch in diameter) plastic medicine bottle. Place the lid back on the bottle, effectively trapping the starting end of the yarn inside.  Now, begin winding your yarn around that little bottle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Step 5: Don't pull the bottle out, as you did your fingers in the Basic Method; just keep winding a nice firm ball onto the bottle, until you get near the end, then wind firmly horizontally around the ball and tie it off, the same as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Step 6:  Push the bottle out of the ball, remove the cap, and Presto! You have the starting end of your yarn ball, and it will pull &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more smoothly because the core of the ball was created on a smooth shape and doesn't completely collapse when the bottle is removed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will never go back to winding my yarn the old way, as I have not had a single tangled clump to deal with since using this medicine-bottle method!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This last photo credit goes to the producers of the referenced YouTube, Interweave Craft.  Links to all credits and references are below.)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqewT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqewT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/08/wind-yarn-into-a-ball/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craftsy Knitting Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/IKA07iB0KFo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You-Tube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2017-01-16T09:00:04.943" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T09:00:04.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2017-01-16T07:52:19.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Matt: You are onto a question which seems quite straightforward at first, yet can sometimes be a bit more complex. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Catija reviewed above, there are many good ways to get a general idea of what your yarn weight is.  These methods, along with experience, will usually get you quickly to that 'good-enough' answer about yarn weight and thus yarn yardage, so that your project can proceed as smoothly as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, problems can arise sometimes when you are figuring out yardage for similar-appearing yarns with very different &lt;em&gt;densities&lt;/em&gt;. In the example previously mentioned, worsted spun and woolen spun yarns of similar circumferences can appear to weigh about the same - and yet they can actually have quite different weights - woolen spun being fluffy, and worsted spun dense. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a nice discussion on this difference, ala The Natural Fibre Co.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if while figuring out available yardage for a mystery yarn, you need a more exact yarn weight answer, there is one other option: &lt;a href=&quot;http://woolery.com/yarn-balance-calculate-your-yardage.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a &quot;Yarn Balance&quot;.&lt;/a&gt; This brilliant little tool can very accurately tell you the number of yards per pound of yarn, using a sample of the yarn several inches long.  The link above has an excellent photo tutorial.  (Photo from The Woolery:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xyeyv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xyeyv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Natural Fibre Co.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://woolery.com/yarn-balance-calculate-your-yardage.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Woolery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T02:29:48.823" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T02:29:48.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="111" CreationDate="2017-01-16T07:56:05.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Addi, famous for their exquisitely smooth nickel needles, also makes two other styles involving &lt;em&gt;brass instead of nickel&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Addi Turbo Lace Knitting needles: the entire needle is made of brass (top needle in below photo):&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Addi Natura Bamboo Knitting needles: the connector is made of brass (bottom needle in below photo):&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNe04.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNe04.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally have used all three of the above Addi circular models extensively, and find them to be wonderful choices when matched to the yarn and project properly.  The &quot;Natura&quot; bamboo model is especially great for very slippery yarns such as silk or alpaca.  The Lace model has a more pointed tip, extremely helpful for those pesky ssk and k2togbtl stitches involved in lacework.  I have found the join to be just as smooth as claimed, for all of the Addi models.  It looks like Addi / Skacel have recently released an olive wood circular line which also features a brass connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;top photo: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camillavalleyfarm.com/pics/needles/additips.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Camilla Valley Farm (via Google image search)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addi website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.additurbos.com/#addinatura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A comparison of their styles of circular knitting needles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T01:05:01.990" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T01:05:01.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-16T18:23:47.453" Score="5" ViewCount="1800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a costume that will require some accent lighting. I plan to accomplish this with a few small circuits to power white LEDs behind some diffused acrylic cutouts, so that the cutouts will glow. The problem I'm encountering is that the accent lights are blue- I was initially thinking I could get away with using clear/white/uncolored diffused acrylic and using blue LEDs behind it so that the light is blue, but then realized that the pieces will look white if the lights aren't turned on, or if I'm in bright lighting. So I have to use white LEDs with blue acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not seeing many options in the color that I want (I need maybe a 1/16 thick sheet in a saturated cyan-blue color- think cyborg!) but the few options for that color that I see are either too thick or too much (it should be about 1/16 thick, and I don't need more than about a square foot at most). I'm thinking my best option is to get clear/white diffused acrylic and then paint behind it with some kind of transparent paint or varnish so that the light can still shine through, but the whole thing will be colored. I'm thinking something like what stained glass kits use. What kind of paint should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1495" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-05-14T18:35:00.357" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T18:35:00.357" Title="Transparent paint to change color of diffused acrylic sheet?" Tags="|paint|acrylic-glass|costume-design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2421" CreationDate="2017-01-17T02:44:49.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a perfumer of any class, even amateur.  Because I have an interest in and have dabbled with essential oils for health benefits, I am intrigued by your question and interested in doing a bit of research on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most pertinent resource I found, the beautiful Blog &lt;em&gt;'The Scent of Love: Ancient Perfumes - How to make your own perfumes just like the ancient Greeks and Romans did'&lt;/em&gt;, discusses how &lt;strong&gt;rose and myrrh&lt;/strong&gt; can be blended, with the ultimate idea that you can make a reproduction of a typical ancient perfume for yourself.  Starting with a carrier oil (she uses olive oil), she adds a base note from several choices, including &lt;strong&gt;myrrh&lt;/strong&gt; resin, which is ground with mortar and pestal.  Mid-notes are then added, among others, &lt;strong&gt;rose petals&lt;/strong&gt;, which are placed directly into the oil. Last they added top notes which consisted mostly of kitchen spices.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;A favorite recipe of many was &lt;strong&gt;myrrh, rose&lt;/strong&gt;, styrax, and marjoram for a warm, sweet perfume.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.getty.edu/iris/the-scent-of-love-ancient-perfumes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[The Scent of Love: Ancient Perfumes]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In describing how to finish the perfume, once ingrediants have been added to the carrier oil, she says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;To complete your perfume, heat your oil mixture by pouring the oil and other materials into a glass or ceramic dish, heating water in a pot to boiling, turning the heat off and sitting the dish with the oil into the water as it cools.  This process draws the essential oils from the materials and can be repeated more than once. The mixture should then steep for at least 24 hours, at which point it can be strained—cheesecloth lets you wring the oil out while keeping all bits of ground materials out of the final mixture.&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.getty.edu/iris/the-scent-of-love-ancient-perfumes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[The Scent of Love: Ancient Perfumes]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Scent of Love&lt;/em&gt; Blogger, Erin Branham, even offers a printable PDF with complete instructions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an image she featured in her story, which is very descriptive of the ancient perfume-making process which Branham describes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpMpQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpMpQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wall Fragment with Cupids and Psyche Making Perfume, Roman, A.D. 75–100. Plaster and pigment, 14 15/16 x 22 1/16 in.  *Used by permission of Getty Images*&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Wall Fragment with Cupids and Psyche Making Perfume, Roman, A.D. 75–100. Plaster and pigment, 14 15/16 x 22 1/16 in. A group of cupids tend a perfume shop in this picture. At right, a cupid holds up an alabastron  filled with perfume, while Psyche (Cupid’s beloved) lifts her arm to smell the scent. Image used by permission of Getty Images&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I took a gander at a Fragrantica.com, an online encyclopedia of perfumes, a perfume magazine and a community of perfume lovers. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Myrrh-98.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page goes into great detail about all things &lt;strong&gt;myrrh&lt;/strong&gt;, right down to harvesting.&lt;/a&gt;  At the bottom is an impressive array of around 150 tiny perfume bottles, each one a link to detailed information on a &lt;strong&gt;&quot;myrrh perfume&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.  It only took me 8 tries to find one which also contains &lt;strong&gt;rose&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Myrrh-98.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[Frangratica.com]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T03:10:50.087" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T03:10:50.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2634" CreationDate="2017-01-17T02:50:01.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than paint, which might peel weirdly on you, another option is to use inkjet transparency film and print the color you want on it and then affix it the acrylic. Walmart sells, and there's likely other sources, an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ink-Jet-Adhesive-Film-8.5X11-6-Pkg-Clear/10881037&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adhesive inkjet printable transparency film&lt;/a&gt; that might do the trick. A lot less fussy too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T02:50:01.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="66" CreationDate="2017-01-17T19:00:33.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you can't tell if you're using the correct loops then nobody else will be able to tell if you did it correctly, or not, either.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For projects like this it's often completely okay to work along as you can, perhaps counting the stitches so you get the right amount per row, and not worrying about where exactly they're going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2017-01-18T19:44:46.600" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T19:44:46.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-19T04:16:58.553" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some beer glasses with decal-like decorations that I assume are some kind of plastic or maybe even glass/faience. How are these made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4kSPY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4kSPY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-01-19T15:51:46.087" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T15:51:46.087" Title="Lacquer on glassware" Tags="|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2638" CreationDate="2017-01-19T13:02:17.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is most likely an &lt;strong&gt;applied ceramic label&lt;/strong&gt;. It's an industrial process that can't be achieved in a typical handmade craft setting (e.g., your garage), requiring &lt;a href=&quot;https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_ceramic_ink.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ceramic inks&lt;/a&gt; or enamels, screen printing to apply the design, and high-temperature baking to set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you're considering removing an ACL to decorate the beer glass differently, the verdict is apparently that it isn't really removable (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2072/30&quot;&gt;see related Q/A&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T13:02:17.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1878" CreationDate="2017-01-19T13:52:54.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest solution is to paint with an emulsion, such as those used on interior household walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bare plaster needs to be suitably sealed before painting begins otherwise the paint will sit on the surface and come off very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this either by applying a couple of emulsion &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;mist coats&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dilute an initial solution of 60:40 water to emulsion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then a second mist coat with the ratios reversed, to thicken the coverage but still watery enough to allow it to continue to sink into the plaster below&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you can buy a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manomano.co.uk/stabiliser-sealer-and-stabilising-primer/dulux-sealer-for-plaster-2294083?product_generic_id=2294084&amp;amp;referer_id=537135&amp;amp;gclid=CN78i_KsztECFY8Q0wodZHcGtw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;purpose made primer&lt;/a&gt;. The link is for a UK site, but is very likely to be a product available worldwide. If the plaster is overly polished, this latter option will be the best, as the plaster will not allow the mist coat to seep in and adhere properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the hour, the piece will be ready for the second mist coat. Apply this in the same order as the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can now apply the final coats (&lt;em&gt;either silk or matt are suitable finishes - but silk is a more reflective surface that draws the eye but can accentuate any imperfections&lt;/em&gt;). Depending on how intricate the piece is will depend on how many coats you might want to apply. The more coats, the more the details will be smoothed out by the paint thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2017-01-25T07:57:47.863" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T07:57:47.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-19T23:43:54.867" Score="4" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a lions head sculpture, but I am having trouble. It is very hard to distinguish the defining facial features of a lion (except for the mane of course). I'm ending up making my piece look like a cougar, panther, or tiger, but since they are all similar felines, it's hard for me to tell the differences that make each type of animal unique, especially since I'm working with a three dimensional medium. Are there any artists that have tips or techniques I can use to help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-01-20T05:50:36.477" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T11:25:52.570" Title="Sculpting details to clearly distinguish a lion from other large cats" Tags="|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2646" CreationDate="2017-01-22T08:22:58.813" Score="6" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how to calculate how much thread I need for a pattern when I know how many points I have for each colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that it is highly dependent on how the points are spread on the pattern and how many time I have to stop the tread. But I am looking at a base value when all the points are contiguous, to use it as base for estimation of more complex design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-17T19:29:16.220" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T16:18:12.077" Title="How much thread do I need when cross-stitching a pattern?" Tags="|cross-stitch|measurements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-22T19:39:16.897" Score="5" ViewCount="7296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to glitter a photo canvas. Just an all over sparkle over the picture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you diamond dust a canvas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1512" LastEditorUserId="1512" LastEditDate="2017-01-23T08:23:10.150" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T21:37:24.170" Title="Help? How to glitter a photo canvas" Tags="|diamond-dust|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-23T03:39:29.690" Score="7" ViewCount="1063" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what a winged sonobe polyhedral looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJ64p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJ64pm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Winged sonobe polyhedral&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://piplup-fangirl66.deviantart.com/art/winged-sonobe-187692620&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DeviantArt&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://piplup-fangirl66.deviantart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Piplup-fangirl66&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should not be that hard but I cannot, for the life of me, find a resource online that tells me how to make this without making a purchase. &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2532/winged-sonobe-octahedron-assembly&quot;&gt;Another question&lt;/a&gt; on this topic mentions about a book called: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.booktopia.com.au/zap-origami-creations-matthew-gardiner/prod9781488925450.html;jsessionid=TYQLXdeFHLNQ7pud-KQSQsN4.undefined&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Zap! Origami Creations&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; which I do not own, nor can find a reference to what I am looking for. There is even a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vn4F6WXoHPA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video which &quot;explains&quot; how to make one&lt;/a&gt; but it ends up just being a fake out involving useless folds and a magic reveal. (I only include it to show what I have looked for. I would not waste your time watching it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hard copy of a great book: &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.ca/books/about/Modular_Origami_Polyhedra.html?id=xeK7AQAAQBAJ&amp;amp;source=kp_cover&amp;amp;redir_esc=y&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Modular Origami Polyhedra&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; but it does not cover this unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that this could be found with a different name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to avoid having to buy a book to get the fold instructions. Surely this is something that is shareable with proper attribution? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T07:53:17.650" Title="How do you make the winged sonobe module?" Tags="|origami|unit-origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2643" CreationDate="2017-01-23T13:44:42.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The method I use is a clear glaze which also acts as a strong adhesive. And, coincidently, the best product I have found is something called Diamond Glaze which is a type of varnish. It is used predominantly in card &amp;amp; jewellery making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of manufacturers and it seems universally available. When it dries it provides a completely clear varnish with virtually no opacity or hue. And it is very strong adhesive. Below is an example of one manufacturer (no connection):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGcUy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGcUy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Judikins Diamond Glaze&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_2_9?url=search-alias%3Darts-crafts&amp;amp;field-keywords=diamond%20glaze&amp;amp;sprefix=Diamond%20g%2Caps%2C194&amp;amp;crid=1HA2K3FLLXT06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Judikins Diamond Glaze on Amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is water soluble, when wet, you can also add inks or dyes to provide different effects. But once dry, about 2-3 hours, it is exceptionally difficult to remove and provides about as permanent adhesive as you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to be careful when applying to media that is water soluble, as it can bleed. So it is best to test it out first. But I've successfully used it on fully dried acrylic paints without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="426" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T13:44:42.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2642" CreationDate="2017-01-23T14:25:14.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my knitting experience, the empirical way to find out would be a swatch - make N stitches, then rip it out. Measure how much thread you used and divide by N to get a rough estimate of thread per stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to calculate it from first principles, you also need to take into account the fabric count. For example, 14-count Aida has 14 holes per inch. That means each &quot;X&quot; is made inside a block which is 1/14&quot; on each side. So the diagonal of the square is then &lt;code&gt;sqrt(2)/14&lt;/code&gt; inches, so an X is &lt;code&gt;2 * sqrt(2)/14&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you aren't just stitching the front of the &quot;X&quot;. This is where the way you arrange stitches makes a difference. You may want to adjust this based on your method, but for contiguous areas I usually end up with a couple horizontal lines on the back. This corresponds to another 2/14&quot; of thread (edges of the square your &quot;X&quot; is stitched into).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting it all together, for a fabric count &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; and number points &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;N * (2*sqrt(2)/C + 2/C)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you note in your question, I would of course add more length depending on how complicated the areas are, and to allow for weaving in ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T14:25:14.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T05:55:37.693" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I an interested in enameling on silver. Ideally I would like some of the regions of my piece to be backlit, but I am not sure how to achieve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If drill through the silver after the enameling is complete and install the light, then the color of the enamel will not be consistent, because the part over the light will look different than the parts over silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea was to try to add a layer of cloudy glass below which would diffuse the light and give a consistent background, but I don't know if such a thing exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T05:13:18.097" Title="Backlighting enamel" Tags="|stained-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T07:13:48.667" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I notice that Laliques famous plique à jour pieces have remarkable clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical modern works, or those examples I see being done by artisans on YouTube are always much more cloudy or translucent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is that Lalique was able to get such pure transparency in his cells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2017-01-24T17:55:11.197" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T19:04:54.027" Title="Method for high clarity plique à jour" Tags="|technique-identification|stained-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T10:12:01.143" Score="-3" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago I did a work, it was possible thanks to the colors, I retried to achieve the same effect but did not worked so far. I have only this low-resolution photo. And I don't remember the colors. Can you recognize some of the bottles in it? I need to order again (and this time I'll keep a notice with the manufaturer and color type information).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkSXW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkSXW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1515" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2017-01-24T13:13:22.230" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T13:55:06.740" Title="Can you recognize the exact color bottles?" Tags="|paint|painting|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2017-01-27T07:46:17.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T16:36:07.733" Score="3" ViewCount="1913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to attach PVC pipe to the side of my Nerf gun for decorative (steampunk) purposes. What is the best adhesive to use for this? It doesnt have to be water tight, just strong enough to survive light impact. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1517" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2017-01-24T17:56:01.653" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T15:33:40.977" Title="How to attach PVC piping to a flat surface" Tags="|adhesives|pvc|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-24T22:12:27.600" Score="7" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a simple lampshade design, on the picture is made out of paper:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBZVtm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBZVtm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's a basic truncated cone from a single sheet of paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to join sides of paper with interlocking cuts, like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ov0Wsm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ov0Wsm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dcscM.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dcscM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdH5q.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdH5q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or like in IQ lamp:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kkj0Wm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kkj0Wm.png&quot; alt=&quot;puzzle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I go about designing a cut for this single-curvature shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1520" LastEditorUserId="1520" LastEditDate="2017-11-13T14:24:02.830" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T20:00:50.727" Title="Interlocking cuts for a truncated cone" Tags="|papercutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2649" CreationDate="2017-01-25T09:57:53.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally found!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;APA COLOR. Still missing the gold bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4LYZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4LYZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1515" LastEditorUserId="1515" LastEditDate="2017-01-25T13:55:06.740" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T13:55:06.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2650" CreationDate="2017-01-25T15:33:40.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest Plasticweld epoxy putty. It's designed to work with most plastics, including PVC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it's a putty, it's moldable and can be used to attach to a greater amount of surface area of the pipe to the gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll be most successful by sanding the portion of the pipe and gun where you plan to use the adhesive, giving the putty a better sticking area. I would also wipe clean with some rubbing alcohol to remove  dust particles (alcohol because it dries quickly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the putty will be flat against the gun surface, but U-shaped against the pipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The putty can also be sanded, drilled, painted, etc. once dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T15:33:40.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2658" CreationDate="2017-01-26T15:43:04.357" Score="-1" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have looked all over the interwebs for how to make (or buy) a paper-backed adhesive plastic package with a retail-friendly hang tab.  This is exactly what I'm looking for, except that I'd like to print my own info on the paper backing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UalB2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UalB2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to buy/make this en masse?  Thanks so much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1529" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T01:09:35.717" Title="How to make retail-friendly adhesive hang tab packaging" Tags="|paper|adhesives|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2017-01-26T19:54:15.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the most reliable method is creating a gauge swatch. Other methods such as wrapping or weighing may give you insight into whether your yarn matches the pattern, but it tells you nothing about how the yarn will perform when you attempt to use it to make the pattern. Every yarn crafter has differences in their yarn tension, which can make the same yarn appear bulkier or thinner in the finished piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best practice is to eyeball your intended yarn (it should be obvious that a super bulky yarn won't work for a lace doily) and then follow the instructions in the pattern to make a swatch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also create a small swatch in a standard size whenever you buy a new yarn, and safety pin the swatch to the ball or skein. Except for patterns that use special stitches, this mini swatch should work universally to judge the gauge, and it's less likely to get lost than the paper wrapper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1531" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T19:54:15.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2655" CreationDate="2017-01-27T01:06:25.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of package you're looking at is called a &lt;strong&gt;clamshell package&lt;/strong&gt; or a &lt;strong&gt;clamshell blister package&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in a variety of sizes. Suppliers will have different dimensions for height and width of the whole package, plus height/width/depth of the &quot;blister&quot; area where the product can actually sit. This lets you choose how much space you want to give to product and how much you want for branding materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick look at several different bulk suppliers, and estimates of buying bulk amounts of small quantities, shows that these packages will run you $200-300+ USD for the minimum 1,000 quantity you require. Perhaps you can find lower prices if you search more thoroughly than I did. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you obtain the packages, you can measure the exact dimensions for the print you want to insert. You could possibly print the design at home on a printer, even using adhesive-backed printing paper, or you could take it to a shop and have it done. You'd provide them the file you want printed, dimension specs, and quantity and they'd take care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use normal cardstock, and don't want it to shift, you could glue it to the back of the clamshell yourself. However, most items in clamshells that I've ever purchased haven't ever bothered to adhere the insert to the plastic. So, it comes out, which can actually be helpful if it includes instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T01:06:25.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2655" CreationDate="2017-01-27T01:09:35.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The terminology that you're missing is &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blister_pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blister packaging&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. This is specific to a molded plastic front with a cardboard backing.  The kind in your image is heat sealed in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also &quot;slide blister packaging&quot; which has a two-part construction with a plastic front that has flanges that hold the cardboard in place on three sides and a staple (usually) keeps it from sliding out of place in the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aapack.com/products-and-solutions/thermoformed-packaging/blister-packaging/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt; of a company who makes them and the sorts of packs they offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thermoformed blisters can be:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Sealed to the front of a graphics card (seal blister)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Trapped between two graphics cards (trapped or captive blister)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Given flanges for a card to slide into (slide blister)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Welded to another blister with a finished appearance (welded blister)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Placed inside a carton, box or clamshell (tray)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Stacked on top of identical blisters to transport parts within or between manufacturing facilities (returnable tray)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Sealed to a lidstock material that can be peeled or punctured (pharmaceutical blister)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AwDQr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AwDQr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thermoformed Blister Pack&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T01:09:35.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2663" CreationDate="2017-01-27T13:49:26.173" Score="3" ViewCount="2655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a college project which involves blacklight. I know about the blacklight sensitive paint which glows when exposed to the blacklight. I also know that some papers are sensitive as well. I want to know if there are any specific types of paper that are sensitive to blacklight. Or is it just based on the colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T02:01:42.483" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T02:01:42.483" Title="Blacklight sensitive paper" Tags="|paper|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-27T15:44:03.400" Score="9" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I can sew on a sewing machine, I've never created a pattern myself, and only seldom worked with them. Now we decided to create a jacket or a nightdress for our teddy bear. The problem is how to create a pattern for it, which we obviously have to prepare ourselves. It can be very simple, of course, but teddy bears have a bit bulky body, primarily oriented to be sitting, which further complicated things. Any ideas where to start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UPhCq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UPhCq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Teddy bear&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1534" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:46:57.547" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T17:46:57.547" Title="How should I go about designing clothing for a teddy bear?" Tags="|sewing|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2660" CreationDate="2017-01-27T17:44:00.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a simple night dress, you can make a tube out of fabric which is just wide enough to go around the body of the bear, from just under the front legs down to as long as you like it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Attach straps to go over the shoulders.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would go for separate straps on the front and back, tied on the shoulder, for simplicity. If you want to make a once on never off you can also sew the straps in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less simple but still rather basic is a T-shirt shaped item.&#xA;You will need flexible fabric, as the bear will not be able to move much to help you and it likely has a rather big head.&#xA;I would not close the shoulders. For a once on and leave, you can hand sew the shoulders by hand or finish off the shoulders and neck like baby clothing and use snaps to close (and re-open) it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the patterns, take the measurements, cut the pieces out of paper and try them on the bear. That way you can adjust before even starting to cut the fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple jacket is made like that, tube for body and smaller tubes for arms, and 'cut' the front of the tube. &#xA;It might be possible to get it on by moving the arms or even bending them (if just stuffed and not moving) but if that is not impossible you can sew (by hand) it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are patterns for dolls and stuffed animals clothing online, you could use some of that for inspiration and adjust the pattern parts to the measurements of your bear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run an internet search on these words and several collections pop-up:&#xA;-patterns for teddy bear clothes free-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It looks like your bear has very flexible arms, the kind you can push through sleeves in T-shirt shaped clothing, and a relatively small head (compared to other teddies) so a regular T-shirt with a wide neck will already be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure I would take a tape measure (or a bit of string which you put to the ruler later) just under its arms as well as just above its legs where the tummy seems to be on its biggest.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unlike T-shirts for humans, for your little fellow you want the sleeves a bit forward, measure the difference between the distance over the back and the front, I guess it may be as much as 2/3 against 1/3.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the size of the sleeves, measure on the lower end, where they are wider.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the fabric is flexible, you can make the sleeves a bit narrower further up, but stiff fabrics will not let the paws through if the tube is narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These same measurements will hold for your jacket. With a fellow as flexible as this, you can use almost any fabric, as long as you are happy to sew it. Just remember to make the sleeves wide enough for the paws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T09:32:55.537" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T09:32:55.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2660" CreationDate="2017-01-27T18:51:31.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One easy way to create a pattern would be to base it off existing clothes for the bear. If you have some, you can trace the sections onto paper and modify from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have any templates like that, you'll need some basic measurements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size around the bear's body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torso length (to bottom, or where you want the hem to fall)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arm circumference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance from armpit to end of sleeve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use these measurements to make basic pattern pieces for a top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two rectangles (front and back), with cut outs for neckline and arm holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two sleeves, tapered from shoulder to wrist, with a &quot;U&quot; shaped end to fit into the arm hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your teddy bear clothes will likely be similar to doll clothes, so perhaps you can find patterns for similarly-shaped dolls to use for examples. The trickiest part will be figuring out the shape of the arm hole, aka armscye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can work it out yourself by making a paper pattern. I recommend tissue paper since it is most flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a piece and tape it around the bear's torso&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take another piece and tape it around the arm, as loose as you want the sleeve to be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a marker to trace where you want the shoulder seam to be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should end up with shapes that look roughly &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gap8B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; - a scoop from the sides of the torso, and a curve on the end of the sleeve. There's lots of resources on how to shape these for people clothes. For a bear, I wouldn't sweat it, since it will have its arms in the same position most of the time and won't complain if it's a little off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The neckline hole is also important. Whether you can get it over the bear's head will depend on how &quot;squishy&quot; your bear is and how much the fabric can stretch. You can either plan to make the hole big enough that the bear's head will fit through, or make a slit to accommodate it. A lot of my doll's shirts are fastened with velcro in the back, for instance. Either way I would start by cutting a hole to fit the neck circumference, and using trial-and-error to enlarge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a basic shirt pattern worked out, you can do the variations you mention. A night dress would just be like an extra-long shirt. For a jacket, you would cut the front pattern piece in half and add width for overlap and seam allowances, and add a collar or a hood (google pattern pieces for the shape, or use the tissue paper method again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T18:51:31.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2017-01-29T08:17:10.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paper brighteners used in modern papers contain fluorescent materials that make the paper glow under a black light. Bright white paper will actually glow fairly well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any paper that's been treated with these types of brighteners will glow under a black light. Typically, you'll see that neon colors are going to be the &quot;brightest&quot;, and so they will glow the best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, it's not anything to do with what the material is made from, but how it's colored/treated. The chemicals are called Optical Brightening Agents, and are used in a wide variety of products to add fluorescence. Think of any neon/fluorescent paint, crayons, safety vests, etc. The OBAs work by reflecting invisible (to us) UV light as just-visible blue light, which is why they glow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T08:17:10.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-29T21:21:40.457" Score="6" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the pinewood derby cars I've ever seen have very crude designs and simple shapes that can easily be cut with a saw. I thought it would be cool if I made a pinewood derby car that looked like a super car, like the LaFerrari, but I have no idea how to approach something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of CNC type machines that can carve wood, but getting a single car cut from a service would cost hundreds of dollars, way out of my price range. Any cheap ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastEditorUserId="606" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T18:29:04.937" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T19:06:05.850" Title="How to cut a pinewood derby car to look like a super car" Tags="|tool-selection|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-01-30T02:09:12.277" Score="3" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dragon pendant that I am sure is 10k gold. I have had for at least 15 years. The tail of the dragon is exposed so it bends from time to time. Some time in the past a small fracture started. I do not wear it anymore since the fracture is quite large (in comparison to the width of the tail ~3mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been in a box for the longest time. I &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; take it to a jeweler but that is not something easily found in my town. It would be nice to know what is involved in the repair of this tail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, assuming I am correct about it being 10k gold, what tools and materials should I use to try and repair this? I have an old micro electronics soldering iron and some flux and solder but I dare not risk using them on something like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very likely that I will not be comfortable to do the repairs myself. It still would be nice to know what I can do though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T05:07:10.527" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T16:51:05.563" Title="At a minimum what would I need to repair a fracture in a gold pendant?" Tags="|tool-selection|metalworking|jewelry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2664" CreationDate="2017-01-30T21:37:23.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a block of wood, like you receive as a pinewood derby blank, into a complex shape, there are a few ways you can go about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowest tech way is to hand carve, using wood carving tools such as chisels and mallets, scrapers, and knives. You'll want some sandpaper in different grits to finish smoothing the shape as you go. Sketch out what you want to achieve on the surface, make rough cuts first with a saw if needed, and then refine using your hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info on carving can be found online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make something more complex and have access to a CNC cutting machine which can work with wood, you can use that once you have been trained to use it. Most of the machines I've seen only work on one face of the wood at a time, so you would have to make multiple passes to carve out each side as you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to learn and use a 3D modeling software package that is compatible with the CNC machine you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be a makerspace or community workshop near you where you can learn more about all of this. Finding a mentor in person will help guide your craft more quickly than reading about it. Try a search online for makerspaces or hackerspaces near you. Here's a map to get you started: &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/List_of_Hacker_Spaces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/List_of_Hacker_Spaces&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1544" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T21:37:23.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3562" CreationDate="2017-01-30T23:10:56.487" Score="5" ViewCount="4955" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing some resin casting and bought a 10 liter (2.6 gallon) pressure pot - wondering how big the compressor chamber must be. Any other tips would be great too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T22:35:01.733" Title="Resin Casting - How large must the compressor be to quickly fill a 10 Liter/2.6 gallon pressure pot at 60 psi?" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2017-01-31T04:25:47.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my jewelry making course way back in 2000, heating metal for soldering required actual flame... a torch. You wouldn't want to do this with the equipment you have at all. It's a totally different process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two different soldering methods in jewelry making: soft solder and hard solder. While many craft-y projects can be assembled using soft solder (that is, solder that can be melted using a soldering iron), working with silver and gold requires hard solder and a torch. There's a guide to it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rings-things.com/Learn/Soldering-101/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Hard&quot; solders are alloys that melt at slightly lower temperatures than the corresponding metal pieces to be fused. Silver and gold jewelry require hard soldering. Copper, brass, and bronze components can also be fused with hard solders. In addition to requiring flux, hard solders generally also require the use of pickling solutions to clean and remove surface oxidation from the finished piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This matches my experience pretty much exactly. While we largely worked with base metals - copper, brass, nickel silver, etc - we did all of our soldering using a torch setup, flux, and pickling solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Metal workers typically use oxy/propane or oxy/acetylene torches with hard solder, but many soldering tasks can also be achieved with butane torches. Use a butane torch to solder jump rings, create ball-end head pins, make custom wire links and chain, create small bezels, fuse together small metal components, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your little project, based on this section, I'd guess that you could get away with using a butane torch but you'd also need to buy gold solder (to match the color), flux, pickling solution... which was always kept warm in an old Crock Pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T04:25:47.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2641" CreationDate="2017-01-31T11:25:52.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately sculpting is as much about your ability to observe your subject as your  technical ability to manipulate the medium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may help you to do some preparatory sketches. Unless you have a zoo or wildlife park near you you will probably be stuck with sketching from photos rather than life but you will certainly want to look at a range of material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to look at two pictures of say a lion and a leopard side by side, ideally from similar angles as this will make the anatomical differences more obvious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key here is to develop the ability to look at the details of your subject and put aside your prior knowledge of what you 'know' it looks like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing in particular which may help is to look at the proportions of your subject, this goes for both humans and animals. For a face you might want to look at things like, eye spacing and height, head length and width width of the nose etc etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T11:25:52.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2702" CreationDate="2017-02-01T15:04:27.260" Score="4" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I created this paper mache rose.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MchSB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MchSB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;paper mache mini rose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwyoH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwyoH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;paper mache mini rose&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;As you can see, it's not very large. As you also can see, it still has the colour of newspaper. Now, roses in newspaper colour aren't very pretty, so I'd like to change that. What is the best approach to apply some paint? What type of paint would work best?&lt;br&gt;Several things to take into account:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint is wet, and I want to apply it without changing (ruining) the shape of the rose completely.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The petals of the rose don't have much space between them; still I want to cover as much as possible with paint.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would dipping be an option? Should I apply a different approach for the flower, and the leaves and stem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T19:43:34.663" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T15:13:55.897" Title="How to paint paper mache rose" Tags="|paint|medium-selection|papier-mache|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2557" CreationDate="2017-02-03T00:51:16.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This fabric is definitely created by weaving, but it really shouldn't be that difficult to create something similar even as a beginning weaver. First, turn your picture 90 degrees.  The thin thread that goes from the top to the bottom is called the &amp;quot;warp&amp;quot;.  The two thicker &amp;quot;yarns&amp;quot; that go from side to side are called the &amp;quot;weft.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could create something similar to this with a picture frame loom (go out and buy a cheap wooden picture frame without any glass in it) or a cardboard loom. Basically, the way weaving works is that you anchor multiple strands of your warp thread at the top and bottom of a loom (called &amp;quot;warping&amp;quot; the loom), and then once you have those strands in place, you weave over and under the warp threads with your weft yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the thin warp yarn, wrap it around the picture frame like is shown here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlVV3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlVV3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your weaving will be done by alternating the two different types of weft yarn--both of which look to be made by using strips of fabric.  You could make something like the thinner strips with t-shirt yarn, which is basically made by taking a stretch knit fabric, cutting it into long strips and pulling it at each end, which will cause it to roll into a little tube&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thicker weft looks like wider strips of a lightweight fabric (maybe a cotton gauze) that has been bunched together to make something that resembles a cord/ribbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZwO7j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZwO7j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start weaving across with your t-shirt yarn, and try and keep the tension even all the way across, so that the yarn seems to lay fairly flat all the way across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the next row, use your gauze fabric yarn, going under where you went over on the last row, etc.  This time, though, don't pull this &amp;quot;yarn&amp;quot; tight as you go.  You want the tension to vary, so that you get the uneven bumps (sometimes you pull this yarn flatter between each strand of warp yarn, and sometimes you leave a larger puff of fabric).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest googling &amp;quot;weaving on a picture frame loom,&amp;quot; or a &amp;quot;weaving on a cardboard loom&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;making t-shirt yarn.&amp;quot;  I would add some links, but I need to build up my reputation first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May still seem like a lot of work, but it really is a beginner weaving project, and the lumpy bumpy nature of the fabric will hide most of the mistakes that beginning weavers usually make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of additional comments--whenever you remove a piece of cloth from a loom, it pulls in on the sides.  You will need to make sure that your warp is wide enough that your finished piece will be the width you want for your pillow, plus seam allowances and selvedge.  You will have to experiment a bit to determine how much wider that should be, as the draw-in is completely dependent on the materials used and the specific weaver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your cloth is woven, use a zigzag stitch or double stitching to sew around the edges of the finished piece, like you would do when stay stitching a collar.  This will stabilize your piece and you can cut outside of the stitching to make a square that is the size you want for your pillow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T00:38:28.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2017-02-03T00:56:28.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using soft pastel sticks, and then finishing with a spray sealer afterwards.  Pastel sticks are not wet, so they won't cause that problem, and you can use your fingers to smooth the color into the smaller spaces. You could also use Q-tips or a toothpick to add pigment into the interior regions of the rose--but it would be difficult to make the coverage even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading the post about airbrushing above sparked another idea that you could try. What about adding another layer of papier mache using colored tissue paper? It will still be very difficult to get color into the interior sections, but it could allow for some interesting layering of color for shadowing, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T21:51:44.663" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T21:51:44.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-03T03:57:01.033" Score="7" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the bottom hem of pants/slacks gets frayed there are various ways to re-sew the hems or cuffs so that the frayed material is no longer exposed.  Presumably there are ways to optimize/extend the longevity of a pair of pants by following a sequence of re-cuffing/re-hemming that maximize the number of opportunities for repair to do so before running out of fabric.  I recall seeing in a sewing book years ago a strategy that allowed three or four significant repairs to frayed hems that started with a traditional cuff and ultimately ended in a plain hem once all material was exhausted.  Sadly I don't remember the book (or the proposed sequence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some optimal strategies/sequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="656" LastEditorUserId="656" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T15:57:03.090" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T08:27:33.197" Title="Cuff strategy to maximize longevity of pants" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2648" CreationDate="2017-02-03T16:38:05.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is completely a guess on my part...but I know that when I was taking a jewelry design class in the early 1990s, my instructor had to eliminate the enameling section of the class because the &quot;ingredients&quot; and techniques had just been determined too toxic to teach, and she hadn't worked with the new resins enough to be comfortable teaching with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, maybe the big difference is our current scientific knowledge about the levels of toxicity that limits our access to the same raw materials that Lalique was using.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T19:04:54.027" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T19:04:54.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2665" CreationDate="2017-02-03T16:51:05.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, working with solder and precious metals like gold requires the use of a torch, not just a soldering iron.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree completely with Catija's response, but in my jewelry making course way back in the 1990s (&lt;em&gt;grin&lt;/em&gt;) I distinctly remember my instructor pointing out that solder cannot fill holes in material.  So, it is good when you have a two flat pieces of metal and you want one of them to lie on top of the other...but you don't use solder to close jump rings (for example).  Although you can use a butane torch for this task, you are actually fusing the rings by melting the silver itself just enough for it to form a closed circle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is a jeweler would most likely bring the two edges of your piece together as closely as possible, and then add a bit of new material to the section to be joined, to provide additional support and strength.  Then once they fused these sections together, they would file and polish it to match the original finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would take someone with a decent amount of experience working with precious metal jewelry to achieve a decent looking repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T16:51:05.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2017-02-03T17:03:20.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a dual-action airbrush and a volatile pigment like alcohol inks, you can spray the rose from a distance at low pressure with a high air-to-paint ratio.  The low pressure will keep the air jet from damaging the rose while the distance and high air-to-paint ration would allow the volatile ink to be almost dry by the time it hits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment with this technique by trying to paint tissue paper without ripping it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low tech equivalent to this technique would be spray paint at double the prescribed distance with a strong tail wind or electric fan running behind you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T17:03:20.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="364" CreationDate="2017-02-03T22:20:02.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that you yourself mentioned glass and listed the downsides, but there are also a couple of advantages that I wanted to point out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My kids elementary school has an annual holiday boutique, and each classroom does an arts&amp;amp;crafts project which is sold at the boutique (adoring parents make a captive audience).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One year, one of the classrooms did a similar project, where they adhered a collage made of the children's artwork to a small side table.  One of the room parents then tried treating the surface (I am not sure what product they used), and had all sorts of issues getting a satisfactory finish on the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, the parents involved sanded down the table's surface and readhered the artwork (luckily they had the foresight to use copies for the project, not the actual original artwork).  Then they went to a local glass manufacturer/supplier, and had them fabricate a top for the table. The glass used was quite thick (~1.5-2&quot;), and the glass was cut slightly wider than the actual table top and then the glass supplier ground the inner section down so that the glass top fit over the table top and had a small lip around the edges to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table was purchased and donated back to the school, and was used in the main office. Because this was an elementary school, the table was frequently subjected to cleaning and disinfection with a bleach &amp;amp; water solution, which could have a long-term impact on other chemical finishes. It also held up very well to scratches and gouges caused by less than skilled hands using scissors and metal utensils on top of the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you decide against applying a finish, maybe my good experience with glass will lead you to rethink a glass top.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T22:20:02.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1949" CreationDate="2017-02-03T22:54:16.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old question, but another option that you might consider is sawing off the existing rings with a jeweler's saw, smoothing the side, and then setting the entire stone with the existing electroplated bezel into a new setting. @Chris Johns is right...you can't resolder the piece because of the potential for damage to the stone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sometimes use certain stones safely with precious metal clay which is going to be finished in a kiln, but the fractures inherent to a geode would not fare well. So you really need some sort of cold setting option, which led me to thinking about bezel setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you create a custom bezel setting for this piece, you could encapsulate the entire old setting within the new bezel. You could create a bezel in the traditional manner, with silver plate, bezel wire and a ring, and solder all of the pieces together, then insert the stone and old bezel into the new bezel. You could also make a new bezel out of precious metal clay (just make sure to account for the shrinkage that is inherent with PMC). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of these methods allow you to use high heat for the metal itself, without any impact on the stone.  You probably won't be able to use the burnishing process with this piece because the stone's face is so rough, but you could use an adhesive like E-2000 to attach it into the new bezel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T22:54:16.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1923" CreationDate="2017-02-04T23:39:33.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also use beading wire, like SoftFlex. It is designed to be knotted and has a nylon coating that will protect it from moisture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However @martha is correct that you will have issues with the line cutting through the straws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very thin paracord might work, but you may still have issues with mustiness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And regarding securing your knots...there is a knot called the fisherman's knot for a reason. Fishing cord can be super slick. Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2135/how-to-knot-an-elastic-cord-into-a-circle&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; out for instructions. (I just noticed that you asked the question that I linked to, so maybe the fishermans knot didn't actually work for you. Sorry about that). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a lot of great tutorials about knot tying on-line, and they will often break the different knot types down by usage. Look for knots specifically used for fishing, and you should find some good knots for securing fishing line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:58.053" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T23:46:35.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-05T18:13:58.613" Score="-2" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came from an estate sale and I plan on making a skirt from it to sell on Etsy. It's cotton &amp;amp; has no markings indicating maker or date. Anyone seen it &amp;amp; know when it's from?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0lpva.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0lpva.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T21:45:04.440" Title="When was this fabric made" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-02-07T23:28:59.273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="201" CreationDate="2017-02-06T09:14:11.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a &quot;serger&quot; sewing machine try sewing a straight stitch and then zig zag close to the stitch. I use a &quot;ball point&quot; needle used for knits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T09:14:11.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2017-02-06T09:18:37.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get &quot;fray check&quot; from your local fabric store. This is applied to keep fabric and ribbons from fraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T09:18:37.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2587" CreationDate="2017-02-06T09:32:58.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;E6000 glue ( comes in small tubes and large tubes)&#xA;Gorilla glue takes a long time to set and it spreads beyond the area; use very little and don't cover the whole area you want to adhere. E6000 works better; you don't have to worry about the excessive spreading of Gorilla glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1574" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T09:32:58.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-06T20:15:24.297" Score="3" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;A colleague of mine has a kid in junior high school (she is 13 for context). She has a project where she needs to make a simulation of cell structure and components. &lt;em&gt;Similar&lt;/em&gt; to the example image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIs1O.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIs1O.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of Cell Biology&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://notes.tyrocity.com/cell-biology/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tyrocity.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What she wants to do is make something where she can suspend objects inside a transparent medium. That medium should be able to be handled and not fall apart easily (or at all). The material should support a mold so that the shape of the end result can be controlled (&lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; a muffin tray or cake pan). Since this is for a kids project cost will be a factor as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jello or gelatin seems like a simple choice except for the fact that it would be too fragile to handle. I had initially thought about resins but the cost would be a factor for a simple project like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the loose criteria above what could we use to make a &quot;cell&quot; and suspend some object &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; it. (She was going to use candy to represent the various parts!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T16:52:50.437" Title="What materials can I use in a kids project to simulate simple cell biology?" Tags="|material-selection|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2017-02-06T20:40:30.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gummy bears! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stronger than gelatin, yet &quot;flexible&quot; to handle the other requirements. Various colors for those willing to sort an entire bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One heats the gummy bears in a double boiler to avoid burning them and when liquid, pours the goop into the mold. You could use plastic strip material taped into the desired shapes, perhaps held on the outside by cardboard cut-outs, akin to the old Operation game. If you need a bone-shaped cell, cut a bone shape in the cardboard and hot glue strips of acetate or similar material to the inside of the cut-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you would be able to find appropriately shaped candies for some of the internal items in the cell, as it would be challenging to construct tiny molds of suitable shape for those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a 3D printer, creating molds is limited only to one's creative talent with the 3D modeling software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you keep the students (and adults) from eating the results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T20:40:30.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2017-02-06T23:15:03.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is seems like a good application of DIY &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teachpreschool.org/2011/08/01/bright-and-colorful-sensory-bags-for-preschool/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sensory bags&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You fill a zip bag with hair gel, whatever objects you want inside, and food coloring if desired. We seal the tops of the bag with colored tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've filled them with toys, beads, glitter and whatever plastic or waterproof objects we have on hand. Even cut off pieces of drinking straws can work. In this case, whatever resembles cell anatomy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can double bag them for more durability. They're able to withstand most handling, except for certain bites from toddlers (so teens should have no issue). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T18:03:08.967" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T18:03:08.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="201" CreationDate="2017-02-06T23:23:54.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to sewing seams on a t-shirt (or on anything made in a stretchy knit fabric for that matter) is that the stitch needs to be able to stretch just like the fabric stretches.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zigzag stitches are often recommended for use if you don't have a serger, but what you really need is a stretch stitch.  And, many modern machines, even less expensive models have a stretch stitch.  If you have icons to show the stitch types on your machine, this is the icon to look for:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kf4s9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kf4s9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your machine doesn't offer this stitch, you might try looking in your owner's manual for information about sewing with knits...it should tell you the best stitch to use on your particular machine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are used to sewing with woven material (like quilter's cotton), sewing with knits can be a bit challenging because the fabric will stretch while sewing, the edges will roll up, and regular pins and sewing machine needles can cause snags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily there are tons of tutorials on-line about sewing with knits, so just google &quot;sewing with knits on a sewing machine&quot; and find the tutorial that works best for you.  Here's a couple to get you started &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jenniferlaurenvintage.com/2014/06/sewing-machine-settings-for-knits-if.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jenniferlaurenvintage.com/2014/06/sewing-machine-settings-for-knits-if.html&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2015/06/knits-without-a-serger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2015/06/knits-without-a-serger&lt;/a&gt; (at a glance these both look useful, but I haven't read them, so I can't vouch for their accuracy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW--if you can't find your machine's owners manual, I highly recommend searching for a copy on-line. Don't pay for one unless you absolutely can't find it anywhere for free.  Try the manufacturer's website first, and if your particular model is not available, reach out to them and ask for one.  Also, lots of people on the interwebs have been kind enough to scan and upload their manuals and will share them for free.  I like doing this because I can save it somewhere (on my hard drive, in cloud storage, etc.) and I can always track it down again when I inevitably lose the hard copy version.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T23:28:57.060" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T23:28:57.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2017-02-06T23:48:10.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; use gelatin, just prepare it to be more durable.  I would suggest using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knoxgelatine.com/ChildsPlay/KB2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe&lt;/a&gt; for Knox Blox from the Knox website, and just leave out the &quot;fruit flavor jelly powder.&quot; Or search for DIY gummy bears--probably any of those recipes will work.  If you use a recipe that calls for fruit juice as a flavoring, leave the juice out and replace it with plain water--just make sure you maintain the proportion of gelatin to liquid as is given in the final recipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would experiment a bit--I wouldn't suggest pouring the gelatin directly over the candy that you have set into the mold, because you use boiling water to dissolve the gelatin and that might cause the candy to melt.  I would try pouring the gelatin mixture into the mold, let it set up just a tiny bit--maybe 1/2 hour (this is where the experimentation comes in) and then place the candies into their proper positions, and let the gelatin finish setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T23:48:10.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2017-02-07T00:37:03.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that all of your yarn is the same thickness and is shrinks the same amount in the wash (best achieved by buying the same brand of yarn for each color), the reason that your piece &quot;shrinks&quot; is most likely because there is not enough slack in the yarn you carry from one section to another to spread across the distance between each usage of that particular color.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easier to find information and illustrative images for knitting, so I will use those, but the concepts are the same for both knitting and crochet. When your piece has individual patches of color surrounded by other colors, it is called &quot;intarsia.&quot;  If you have multiple colors interspersed throughout the piece, that is called &quot;stranded&quot; work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a knitted piece made with intarsia: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YgdqG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YgdqG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closely, the person has worked the pink yarn across to where the tan begins, then s/he has worked the tan yarn for however many stitches, and then restarted with a new source of pink yarn. When you are working this way, you end up with a bunch of long ends of yarn hanging from the back of your piece waiting until you get back to where you are ready to use them again.  Frequently, this yarn will be wound around a bobbin to allow you to unravel just enough yarn to be able to work that section and then shorten the length again to avoid tangling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this type of bobbin best&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCU6V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCU6V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but you can also use this type&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeYme.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeYme.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are working a stranded piece, then you won't stop and start the colors, but will carry them across the reverse side of your piece until you are ready to use them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of a stranded piece:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEGdh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEGdh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see, at the bottom, how there are strands of the white yarn that are being carried along at the back of the piece across the span of two or three stitches. Not leaving enough slack in these strands is what will cause your piece to shrink or pucker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb for stranded pieces is not to carry your yarn across more than three stitches (and I often reduce this to two stitches) before tacking it down somehow.  This allows you to have better control and ensure that you have enough slack to keep the final piece even.  The way you &quot;tack&quot; the yarn is, before starting the next stitch, move your active yarn to the reverse side of the work, below the stranded yarn, then wrap it around the strand so that the active yarn is now above the strand and then work your next stitch. This will form a little loop around the stranded yarn and will hold it in place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when doing the wrapping process, any time you strand across too long a section of your piece, you run the risk of causing pull-in or puckering.  So, in general, when I am faced with stranding across more than about 5-6 stitches, I will usually consider working that section in intarsia.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need more help, try googling &quot;stranded crochet&quot; or &quot;crochet intarsia.&quot;  I saw quite a few good resources with both searches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @willeke pointed out, knitting and crochet are worked differently.  So, here is an image of how to carry yarn and wrap yarn in crochet from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/crafts/crocheting/how-to-carry-yarn-in-crochet/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;.  The concept is the same, except that you will lay the stranded yarn along the top of the crochet stitches that you are working, instead of behind the work, like you do in knitting.  You still want to make sure and wrap every two or three stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XyMLi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XyMLi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T17:57:57.773" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T17:57:57.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2136" CreationDate="2017-02-07T01:05:25.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old post, but I thought I would chime in with a couple of additional ideas. I prefer knitting to crochet, and I was having the same issue with knitting. One solution I found was to adjust my technique. It is easy to find information about different knitting techniques (continental knitting, throwing/English style, using knitting pins).  Each of them requires slightly different movements of your hands, and can allow you to continue switch techniques if you start feeling pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find much on alternate crochet techniques, but one that I did run across was &lt;a href=&quot;http://yarnstylist.typepad.com/.a/6a0120a5968293970c019b048cba98970d-pi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;crocheting left-handed&lt;/a&gt;.  If you normally crochet right handed, teach yourself to crochet left-handed as well, and then you can switch off when one hand gets tired.  Just make sure not to work on the same project when you switch hands...I speak from experience when I say that your gauge will be completely different when you use a different technique, so you probably want to stick to one technique for an entire project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other suggestions--try using different yarn. Cotton/linen/hemp and silk yarns are noted for limited stretch. Polyester yarn can also be less stretchy. If you are using one of these fibers, try switching to a wool yarn and see if it is easier on your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try crafting in a different location--your posture can impact your wrists and hands in unexpected ways.  Pain from tight shoulders or neck can radiate into your hands and wrists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't waste your money on those stress-relief gloves...they have never done anything for me, or for anyone else I know who has tried them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T01:05:25.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2686" CreationDate="2017-02-07T21:45:04.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cloth appears to be printed for a run of calendar tea towels, circa late 1960's to the late 1970's.  I notice, for example, that September 1st fell upon a Thursday in the year that the cloth was printed, so there should your quest begin...  start your search engines!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1580" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T21:45:04.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2701" CreationDate="2017-02-08T05:07:28.263" Score="4" ViewCount="2144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need to do this for my art project. I tried using a normal wire cutter but the wood just doesnt break&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T16:19:32.510" LastActivityDate="2023-02-27T04:49:23.667" Title="How do I cut a popsicle stick lengthwise?" Tags="|cutting|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2703" CreationDate="2017-02-08T05:54:10.263" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not any artist education, but I'm interested in drawing, especially in comic strip's drawing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Where can I find information, materials about this drawing for beginners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="137" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T14:59:41.753" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T17:11:23.857" Title="How to become comic strip artist?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-02-10T23:21:24.853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2952" CreationDate="2017-02-08T08:19:31.533" Score="2" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a detailed hard casting plaster, like Ultracal or Hydrocal. However I can't find a distributor of these two in Europe (England, Germany...)&#xA;Besides some overlypriced bags, sold by individuals on Amazon (however they usually have only one or two bags).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an alternative to these Materials that Europeans use? Because I can hardly imagine that they don't make plaster/stone castings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard, that you could use something like dental plaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T07:37:25.313" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T10:52:44.840" Title="Hydrocal/Ultracal (plaster) alternative in Europe" Tags="|plaster|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2698" CreationDate="2017-02-08T10:51:28.587" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is limited by not having an indication of the resources available to you. One of the better tools would be a scroll saw, often called a jig saw. The tabletop versions are well suited to light duty cuts such as popsicle sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suitable tool, somewhat unwieldy, is the rotary hobby tool, often called a dremel tool, from the brand name frequently associated with this type of item. There are various bits available for this device, but it would be challenging to handle safely for such small pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only recently, there appears on the 'net a number of videos showing people using either a rotary tool such as the dremel, or a hand drill and even a right-angle disc grinder. The latter is seriously overpowered for this application, but the key feature is that the cutting &quot;bit&quot; is a circle of paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple circles of the same diameter are cut, glued together using ordinary adhesive and attached to the rotary device. The faster the speed one can manage, the better the results. Even wood as thick as 25 mm (1 inch) is shown being cut with a paper disc!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used The YouTube, searched for &quot;cutting with paper&quot; and found a number of returns. One of them shows the rotary tool at the very start. I did not view the entire video, having seen others representative of this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJU75uXOIBE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cutting with paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: An additional method of attacking the sticks would be to use a box knife or similar sharp instrument. Place a solid straight edge on the stick and score repeatedly along the edge. Use as much force as necessary to cut into the surface, but not so much as to crack the stick along grain lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can ensure exact positioning, consider to score one side then the other before attempting to split the stick in two. It may be necessary to alternate sides when scoring in order to slice completely through the stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T14:26:42.297" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T14:26:42.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2673" CreationDate="2017-02-08T15:13:55.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I don't have an airbrush, I gave dipping a try. It is risky, I know!&lt;br&gt; But I did, a very quick dip At first, the rose had no problems to keep its shape, but after - say - half a minute, the paper was thoroughly soaked (and it still had some drops hanging on it as well!), so the outermost petals started to 'unwind' a bit. (I created a scalloping strip of paper, and wound it round the stem to form the petals.) Support of an absorbing cloth helped. The rose is too small to loose its shape completely, so when I put it on the cloth, I could leave it to dry. I made sure that the shape when I left it drying, was the shape that I wanted, for once it's dry I cannot change it easily anymore.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Once the red paint was dry, I applied some green (acrylic) paint.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the result of my efforts:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xdT5q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xdT5q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small rose - painted&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T15:13:55.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2699" CreationDate="2017-02-08T17:11:23.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just do it, develop your own style.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can check out other peoples work and develop your own style from that.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But you will have to develop your own style and not stick in copying others.&#xA;When looking at published cartoons you will see a very wide range of styles but also a lot of cartoons that are not well drawn, just enough of a drawing style combined with 'story lines' or 'insight' that makes you come back to the comic every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are over 13 and not making comic strips all the time, I doubt you will ever be a professional.  When you are 16 or over, send samples of your work to all places that publish comic strips and see if you can get them to answer you.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you just want to do it for your own fun, you can use all kinds of books or online drawing teaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to google a site for you but the search did show up so many results that you will need to do the search yourself so you can select those that attract you or those that you feel are styles you can master.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start a search with 'drawing comic' and follow one of the sugestions the search sites offers. I followed 'drawing comic book style' &#xA;You will get a series of options in videos, in sites that teach you 'all you need to know' as well as sites that combine further options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T17:11:23.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2163" CreationDate="2017-02-08T21:11:28.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical silk screen &quot;engineering&quot; is performed in such a manner as to provide very high resolution and high fidelity to the original artwork. For the project you describe, dealing with three dimensional objects, you are not going to achieve such fidelity, nor would I expect your objective includes that aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use an ordinary spray paint if you do not require to later remove the material from the screen, as is commonly done with conventional silk screening. You should consider to use water based paint to ensure the solvents will not dissolve the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, one can purchase an atomizer type or pressure type spray device and use the liquid mask, again making certain that the materials are not going to react with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use any type of spray method, flatten your items as much as possible, unless &quot;fuzzy edges&quot; are part of the art work. Use light coats multiple times rather than few heavy ones. You'd want to keep a constant angle from the spray to the art pieces to the screen, in order to reduce the under-spray which would result from spraying under the overhangs of the items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned branches (sticks) in the piece. If you care to increase the level of success, consider to sand flat the portion of the branch contacting the screen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T21:11:28.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2450" CreationDate="2017-02-09T14:25:15.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;A&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are basically two ways to draw an object:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drawing what you &lt;em&gt;see&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing from reality as you see it can result in strikingly &quot;photorealistic&quot; renderings. But it has two fundamental disadvantages: You cannot draw what you cannot see. For example, a dragon cannot be drawn from reality, but any other object will prove equally undrawable, if you don't have it in your vicinity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And sometimes reality is not as &quot;attractive&quot; or &quot;ideal&quot; as you might want your finished artwork to look. In fact, sometimes reality looks plain wrong and viewers of your artworks will tell you that you made a mistake, when what you drew looks exactly like it does on a photograph you took at the same time and from the same angle. For example, many poses in nude figure drawing look as if you cannot draw when you draw them exactly as they appear in front of you, because we are so used to the idealization in highly selected and professionally posed and lit nude photography and aren't very familiar with real naked persons at all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drawing what you &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing from the imagination can result in beautifully elegant renderings. But is has two fundamental disadvantages: You cannot draw what you do not understand. For example, a complex tangle of branches might prove too difficult (or time consuming) to construct convincingly. And purely constructed renderings will often appear stiff and lifeless. For example, a constructed figure may appear unbalanced or as if it does not interact with its environment (e.g. the flesh does not adapt to the chair).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;B&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, both approaches eventually lead to the same skill: that of being able to draw from your imagination by referring to references from reality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;constructing&quot; approach will provide you with knowledge quickly (i.e. you learn proportions and other constructing principles that you can immediately apply) – which makes it appear as the faster and better (and sometimes the only correct) approach to some students –, but it has to be constantly checked against reality so that your drawings don't look like stacked cubes and spheres but have the dynamic and force of real persons, animals, and objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;observing&quot; approach will provide you with motor skills quickly (i.e. you learn how to move your hand to create a line that gives the impression of something real), but it has to be abstracted so that you may escape the limitations of perceivable reality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence, you always do both things. When you draw from reality, you either explicitly/consciously or implicity/unconsciously begin to form an understanding of the structural principles of the objects you draw. If you draw from life long enough, you will eventually know what people etc. look like and be able to draw them from your mind without every having learned proportion or wireframes. You can speed up this learning process by not only drawing what you see, but by consciously attempting to draw the abstractions. There are many kinds of exercises for this, and drawing wireframes is one of them. (Another is redrawing what you have drawn from life from your mind, which will force your mind to &lt;em&gt;create&lt;/em&gt; its own abstractions and its own structural principles. This is the approach I prefer to learning someone else's abstractions, which, I have found, usually do not fit my personality and thinking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you construct from structural principles, which you correct against real life references, you will eventually incorporate reality into your abstract knowledge. The danger in learning to construct first is that you learn only the construction and check your art against the constructing principle (e.g. schemata of proportions) or the work of other artists (e.g. the comic fan copies comics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;C&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finally answer your question, it does not matter whether you draw the wireframe (that is, the constructing principle) first or the outline (that is, what you see). You can even do one or the other exclusively for a long period of time. The important part is that you keep drawing (this is the most important part, actually, and how you draw matters to a lesser degree), and that you eventually begin to see the limitations of whichever approach you chose and begin to supplement it by doing the other thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, if you construct, construct from life. And if you draw from life, find the general abstract construction principles underlying reality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1587" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T14:25:15.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2708" CreationDate="2017-02-09T19:08:43.790" Score="7" ViewCount="2166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to draw circles and ellipses more accurately without relying on a compass (or spinning my paper around). This seems like a simple google-searchable question, but most of the results are flooded with click-bait &quot;amazing circle drawing trick!&quot; results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you draw a near-perfect circle without using or mimicking a compass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T21:09:37.357" Title="What are other techniques to draw a circle besides using or mimicking a compass tool?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2707" CreationDate="2017-02-09T19:20:29.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know whether you see a pin and a bit of string as a compass mimicking method, it is likely a very old alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do elipses by using two pins and a bit of string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you an use circular items and draw a line around it, just like you draw a straight line along a ruler.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are special tools which have a series of circular holes to allow to make quickly draw several sizes of circles, if you search on -circle template ruler- you will see several different options. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i2.wp.com/www.draftingsuppliesdew.com/resize/images/RapidDesign/40R.jpg?lr=t&amp;amp;bw=800&amp;amp;bh=800&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Here is a link to a commercial site which shows one.)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best method without any tools is training.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The more you do it, the better you will become.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sit with a piece of paper in front of you and draw as many circles as you can, look critical and try to improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several methods of drawing which may work for you.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One is one flowing line, no options to improve once started but a very strong result when done right.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A second one is to build up the circle from tiny fragments. Like for a circle with 10 cm/4&quot; diameter you draw little lines about 1 cm/ 1/2&quot; long and overlap them at least one third, maybe two thirds. With this method you can stop and consider, re-adjust and change the shape while working on it. Even in the best outcome it will not show as strong as the single line approach but I find it an easier way to get near the perfect circle. (I never really get it right out of hand, I prefer the computer to make perfect circles for me.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Maybe it will help you to have a perfect circle of about the right size near while training yourself to draw one. This can be any simple item which is circular. Samples include coins, saucers, tops or bottoms of glasses or even the rings left by a wet glas and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other training exercise might be that you use a circle made by one of the mechanical ways (compass tool or drawn around an object, or again the ring left by a glass) and draw your training circle around or inside (or both and several on each 'side'.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will be able to draw almost perfect circles by hand, without much training, others will never learn it. You have to try to find out how good you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-02-13T17:31:55.240" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T17:31:55.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2707" CreationDate="2017-02-09T19:37:33.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a half-circle or full-circle protractor if you have one available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rig up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/make-and-measure-circle-without-pattern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pencil and string&lt;/a&gt; to make your own compass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trace around a circular object, like a drinking glass, or a bowl &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for large circles, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyN9qAtYsi0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; tutorial is quick and easy to execute&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1590" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T19:37:33.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2017-02-09T19:48:54.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agonized over this decision myself!  I've tried a lot of different options for tiny areas and fine detail and finally settled on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00JNVWEUQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tombow Mono&lt;/a&gt; erasers.  They last a while too, not like some erasers where you scrub them down to nothing after a couple uses. Good for when you need to erase very thin lines in tight spaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working with paper that is fragile or liable to scrub away with too much erasing, use a standard kneaded eraser.  No eraser &quot;crumbs&quot; to clean up, and you can break off a small chunk and twiddle it to a very fine point.  Rather than scrubbing back and forth with this type of eraser, you would kind of dab it on the paper repeatedly.  It sticks to the graphite particles and pulls them up, and then somehow doesn't transfer back onto the paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drawing, I would advise staying away from the &quot;eraser pencil&quot; options.  They're horrendous and either smudge/smear your work, or leave weird un-erasable grease marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1590" LastEditorUserId="1590" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T20:08:10.340" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T20:08:10.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-10T14:19:04.317" Score="5" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be 'printing' with a baking soda and water solution. I need to apply the solution to a surface that will hold it long enough to lay a piece of paper on it and saturate particular areas of the paper, the letter forms. What is the best surface to use. I've contemplated sponge, but am not sure if the sponge will gather enough solution intact to leave residue of the letter form or whole word on the paper when it dries. I'll find that out by experiment but would love any help that might improve my chances of success. This is for a college typography class.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I've cut the letter forms out of sponge and adhered them to a sheet of Plexiglas. I originally wanted the sponge to sit in the bicarbonate solution and continuously wick it to the top of each sponge letter form. I've done some trials already however on this smaller version I've put the solution on the sponge letters, first with a brush, and recently with an eye dropper. I'm letting the paper dry at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm printing a form of 'Secret Ink'for a graphic design class. If I go with this project I'll have to make 28 posters, minimum 18&quot; x 24&quot; or larger this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for taking the time to contemplate the problem and come up with solutions.I'll post pics of the results if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1600" OwnerDisplayName="Jacqueline Johnson" LastEditorUserId="1600" LastEditDate="2017-02-12T00:08:38.907" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T16:33:53.157" Title="Printing with Sodium bicarbonate" Tags="|printing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2017-02-11T00:03:26.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand the physics of the project you are describing, you want a surface wetted with a baking soda and water solution. You plan to place paper on that surface to transfer the solution to the paper. A sponge of &quot;typical&quot; thickness will likely wick the solution away from the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should consider a non-permeable surface such as a flat countertop or piece of glass or hard plastic, as long as it is flat enough for your purpose. Place a thin absorbent material on the hard flat surface and soak it with the solution. You'll have to experiment on the quantity of liquid, and you'll want the baking soda to be fully dissolved before applying any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T00:03:26.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2017-02-11T12:21:25.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a midpoint between sponge and a non-permeable surface, you might consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/CORK-STAMPS/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cork&lt;/a&gt;.  I think it would remain &quot;wetter&quot; than a sponge while being carve-able, which a harder surface might not be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001ACNW48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sheet of cork&lt;/a&gt; and carve your letter forms as a base-relief, so the letters are raised above the carved away background parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then lightly adhere the cork to one rigid surface and your paper to another. Two flat sheets of wood or metal could serve as these rigid surfaces.  The purpose of these rigid sheets is to keep the ink-bearing cork surface and the ink-receiving paper surface completely flat when they come into contact with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, it is just a question of painting the raised portions of the cork with your baking soda solution and then &quot;gently&quot; touching the two surfaces together with a minimum of vibration or slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T12:21:25.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2717" CreationDate="2017-02-12T04:50:04.557" Score="7" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a way to do the following. &#xA;1. Arrange a pattern of semi-precious stones.&#xA;2. Embed it in a transparent medium so that it can be hung up, say in front of a window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone suggested I use ClearCast epoxy in a silicone mold. I sort of like this idea, but the problem is that if I just pour epoxy over the stones, the whole thing will have exposed stones on one side. I'd like to have it smooth on both sides. Another thing that occurred to me is to lay the stones on a sheet of glass, and then pour the epoxy over that, but I don't know how well that would work. How well would the epoxy bond to the glass? Also, what would be a good way of keeping a rectangular shape on the sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to do two pours. After pouring onto the stones and letting it harden, I could turn it over and then pour a second layer. Any ideas on how well the second pour would bond to the first, and also would I expect a visible fault plane in the middle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Feel free to alter the tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1601" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T17:29:03.693" Title="Method for embedding rock mosaic in transparent material" Tags="|adhesives|glass|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-13T06:25:56.620" Score="6" ViewCount="5423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for ideas on how to cut small raw gemstones (1&quot; or less in diameter) in half without damaging the crystals and preferably without spending hundreds on a lapidary saw. I've been told tile saws and dremels aren't appropriate for this application. I've also been told the stone and blade must stay wet through the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done this at home or have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-02-13T14:37:51.817" LastActivityDate="2023-03-25T13:44:07.887" Title="How can I cut gemstones in half without a lapidary saw?" Tags="|tool-selection|cutting|lapidary|stones|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2714" CreationDate="2017-02-13T17:05:27.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another option would be to do two pours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be what I would have tried/suggested with epoxy resin. Make the first pour and let it harden. Do your best to try and remove bubbles during both pours obviously. You don't want to pour to fill half but slightly less then that so your object appear suspended in the middle of the finished piece. This will be harder to accomplish if your objects are of greatly different thicknesses. What works against you here is that most epoxies are self leveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the first pour has hardened you can start the next one. Depending on the contours of your rocks you will need to be wary of trapped air bubbles. You could either put the rocks in first and pour or place the rocks mid pour. The ladder should mitigate the epoxy moving your rocks around during the pour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two+ pours method is used frequently with painting to create the illusion of 3 dimensions. One example is this video showing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSvWMUZCjRc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;artist filling the bottom of the box with resin and a painted goldfish&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSvWMUZCjRc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/dSvWMUZCjRc/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Emil Hauge - Painting 3D fish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While looking for something else I found another &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxmq3Yh3GnU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video showing how to make a rock embedded coaster with resin and a silicone mold&lt;/a&gt;. Seems to line up with the suggestions given above. Only difference being the rocks were set before the first pour cured completely. If you want your rocks to be suspended it might be better if you wait until it has hardened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, what would be a good way of keeping a rectangular shape on the sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using some sort of mold would be your best option. You see them commonly used in resin jewelry. Large rectangular molds do exist. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Square-Jewelry-Epoxy-Resin-Molds-Cast-Moulds-/360456065581&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A cursory search found a 7 inch square mold that was 3/4 inches deep&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw someone use a mini red solo cup as a mold and it worked perfectly. You would need to test your resin first to see how it reacts. Not all resin products are created equally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure of other materials or home brew options for molds. It would have to be something non permeable. This could easily be another question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-02-13T17:29:03.693" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T17:29:03.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2707" CreationDate="2017-02-14T20:16:26.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.First, draw a rectangle. In which you imagine your circle or ellipse to be     fitting in.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;2.Next, mark the mid-points of all four sides.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;3.Keeping in mind that the sides are tangents and mid-points are where tangents meet the curve start to draw curve near the four midpints.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;4.You'll see a rough ellipse emerging. It should be easy hereafter.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Later on, when you've enough practice you can do steps 1, 2 and 3 in your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1614" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T20:16:26.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2017-02-15T09:19:29.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't erase. &#xA;One of the biggest challenges for a beginning artist to overcome is this idea of a &quot;mistake.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a stray mark during the execution of your work, leave it. These imperfections not only add character to your work, but they also establish the work's authenticity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you continue to develop as an artist, your execution will improve and these stray marks will decrease. You will develop great skill at executing without &quot;mistakes.&quot; But the best part, is that you will have generated a large body of works which have remained unedited. This will provide you with a resource to look back over the years and see just where your skills have improved and how fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, scientists do not erase their mistakes, they carefully document them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastEditorUserId="725" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T10:51:39.517" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T10:51:39.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2267" CreationDate="2017-02-15T13:40:13.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material of the shoe has been stretched and shaped. It is made of materials that are more flexible than paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to soak the paper, then lay it on the shoe and position it, ever so gently. Allow it to dry in place, and it will be come rigid. If you want it to stick to the shoe after it has dried into the proper shape, you can now spray a sticky adhesive to the paper and hold it to the shoe. However, the shoe surface is likely to resist the adhesive properties, because it lacks sufficient tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps there is a better solution. May I ask, why are you interested in doing this? What exactly is your end goal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastEditorUserId="1615" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T02:58:42.997" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T02:58:42.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2266" CreationDate="2017-02-15T13:51:24.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I did a bit of this the last time we were in Japan. It was very difficult, but also very interesting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the previous answer indicated, experimentation is key here. In fact, I almost think it's the whole point of this technique. Each time you fail miserably, you'll learn a bit more about what doesn't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try everything you come across (it's all free materials anyway). Make notes on what did/didn't work. You can number your papers to correlate with your notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that different plant materials respond better under different hammering techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have developed a feel for it (through experience), you will quickly develop your own signature style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to fail miserably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T15:01:25.533" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T15:01:25.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2698" CreationDate="2017-02-15T14:00:17.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a razor knife and a straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount the straight edge to your popsicle stick so that it creates a hard edge right down the center. You can simply tape it to a metal ruler. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now set the razor knife on the stick and pull it lengthwise down the stick, maintaining a straight line, by keeping it tight to the ruler. You don't need to press hard. Just push it down enough to score the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back over the scored line a few times, lightly pressing the razor knife (scalpel, exacto knife). Eventually it will work it's way through the wood in a very straight, smooth, and controlled manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastEditorUserId="1615" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T07:57:50.487" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T07:57:50.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2017-02-15T16:33:53.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you limited to a mixture of baking soda and water?  If you add a thickener (like agar gum) to the mixture to give it a bit more &quot;stickiness,&quot; then you should be able to use rubber stamps (or foam cut-outs, etc...just google &quot;DIY rubber stamps&quot; for alternatives).  Use a foam brush to apply the liquid mixture to the stamp and apply to your paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to experiment with different thickeners (agar gum was just the first one that came to my mind) and amounts to determine what will work best with the baking soda and water mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T16:33:53.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-15T22:20:25.620" Score="4" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a special kind of cutter for cardboard? I know I could use a laser cutter, but I don't want to spend thousands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need an automatic shear of some kind, ideally with an adjustable kerf, so that I can control the width of the material removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fabric shears are not heavy duty enough to cut large amounts of cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the machining world there are devices called nibblers for nibbling sheet metal. The look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/34R8Mm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/34R8Mm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could use this, but it is really for sheet metal. I am looking for something more for cardboard with an adjustable cutter. Does that exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T13:51:31.820" Title="Machine shear for cardboard?" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-16T16:12:52.060" Score="5" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were painting a lantern, when someone spilled dark paint over a yellow part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process for creating is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You stretch the cloth over a wooden frame. (ca 2.5m x 2.5m/ 8foot by 8 foot)&#xA;The cloth is then coated in multiple layers of gelatin.&#xA;The gelatin tightens the cloth, and hardens it a bit, so you can paint on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, that it is lit from the back, so you can't overpaint it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were drawing with watercolor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can put a bit of water on it, however, too much will remove the gelatin, which makes us unable to paint there. Rubbing too much will remove the gelatin as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Bf1Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Bf1Qm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this photo is from the inside of the lantern&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;This photo is from the inside of the lantern. Click image to enlarge&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to remove some color, by not destroying the rest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would the restoration process look like, when the painting was old?&#xA;Maybe I could adapt this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T20:15:23.713" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T18:02:06.690" Title="How to remove water-based paint?" Tags="|paint|painting|watercolor|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2017-02-16T18:59:29.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Color has no name. I painted portraits for more than a decade, so skin is kinda a familiar subject for me. Anyway, I have made several very indepth videos on the subject of color theory for painters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the one that I think speaks more specifically to your question:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/CLkRYBwnnz0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;color has no name&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video is a brief overview on the concept of color (from the perspective of an artist). Other videos in the collection deal specificaly with color theory, paint mixing, and common misconceptions among artists regarding such things. But this particular video deals with &quot;the color of skin&quot; in particular, as well as the matter of available paint color options found in art supply stores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short video is of me talking about this subject. The only way that I can &quot;sum up&quot; this very short video is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I mention that no skin tone is a single color (without going into a great amount of detail on &quot;why&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The color of anything is greatly influenced by the color of the light falling upon it and the color of the reflected light bouncing off adjacent objects in proximity to the skin and reflecting back upn the shadowed areas of the skin surface.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I'm going to sit here and type it all up anyway, I might as well take the opportunity to elaborate on the &quot;why&quot; no skintone is consistent? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's because all skin is translucent to some degree. The cartilage, musculature, and blood all contribute to the color we see at the surface of the skin. However, the video actualy takes the time to demonstrate the subject of light, and adjacent objects, whuch I can not do here in writing.  I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastEditorUserId="1615" LastEditDate="2017-02-18T09:41:23.117" LastActivityDate="2017-02-18T09:41:23.117" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2741" CreationDate="2017-02-18T07:57:30.740" Score="7" ViewCount="1112" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all of my art classes, and virtually anywhere I encounter new artists, the number one obstacle I see holding them back is a &quot;fear of imperfection.&quot; So I'd like to submit this question to any/all established artists, what tips/advice do you have for &quot;new artists&quot; to overcome their fears of imperfection (which are, afterall, inevitable for any student)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T23:02:25.343" Title="How to overcome the fear of imperfection?" Tags="|drawing|painting|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2735" CreationDate="2017-02-18T08:39:56.433" Score="5" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very fist step in traditional art painting, drawing, sculpting, and such is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine the scale of the work!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The painter must select their canvas, a drawing requires the right size sheet of paper, and a chisled statue requires the right size stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how do you decide?&#xA;And does the scale affect the composition of the work being executed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastEditorUserId="1615" LastEditDate="2017-02-18T09:02:03.350" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T18:07:11.910" Title="How to determine the &quot;correct&quot; scale for your art project?" Tags="|drawing|painting|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2736" CreationDate="2017-02-18T10:07:01.183" Score="3" ViewCount="4266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder what's the name of the style of drawing of the pictures shown below.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I know it's some kind of digital painting, but if I want to draw characters like this with a pencil, can I find references using the keyword 'cartoon', or 'realistic'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rossdraws.deviantart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zU5B5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rossdraws.deviantart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZWafy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Artwork appears to be by &lt;a href=&quot;http://rossdraws.deviantart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ross Tran&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-23T07:35:43.350" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T01:10:19.037" Title="What is the name of this drawing style?" Tags="|style-identification|illustration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2730" CreationDate="2017-02-18T18:37:12.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deciding on the scale is part of the design process&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you decide to make a piece of art its size is part of the design process.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is a huge difference between a miniature and a way more than lifesize piece of art in the materials and tools needed and in the structure which may not be seen but is needed to build the item, but not in how you design the piece of art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the size is decided by how much money the artist has to spend on the project or whether someone is sponsoring, has given a commission or guaranties the cost of the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even huge artworks mostly have a smaller sample made, either as sketch or as miniature to show and get financing or as a way to work out technical difficulties. And most of those models can handle two or more out of those in one small version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the more modest items, where the 'smaller' scale will be about 50% of the 'larger' scale, it is still a case of money, preference and availability.&#xA;Many people get lessons as part of their art education, teachers usually set the size as well as the subject and medium.&#xA;Or at least talk it through with the student to get the best result for the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are self taught, you will have to experiment as much as your purse allows you.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I find in almost all crafts and arts, I go for smaller once I know how to do the technical side.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Others I have met or know about do go for bigger and huge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each person has to find his/her own way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About scale influencing the design&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Basically the design should be independent of the scale. The smaller you work, the smaller the details should be. The bigger the scale, the more likely you will not put in small details but you will still be able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at huge canvasses of old masters, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rembrandt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rembrandt van Rijn&lt;/a&gt; for example, you will see that most of the work is wide strokes of the brush or whatever tool they used. There might be some details, but most of those will not stand out when you are at a distance to appreciate the whole of the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That goes even more when you go for more than lifesize sculpture.&#xA;Take as an example the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angel_of_the_North&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angel of the North.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The huge statue does not have more details than the man sized marquettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can decide to make a 4 by 3 meter painting with as much detail per cm as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Miniatures_NMW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;miniature paintings&lt;/a&gt;, but that is a design decision, not something that comes from the scale used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T18:07:11.910" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T18:07:11.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2732" CreationDate="2017-02-19T04:47:03.357" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each artist is going to develop their own style. So, those images are examples of &lt;strong&gt;Ross Tran-style digital figure illustrations&lt;/strong&gt;, notable for their vivid palettes and fantasy and sci-fi themes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you're not necessarily going to be able classify every type of figure or portrait drawing into a &quot;style&quot; that is anything beyond the &quot;semi-realistic&quot; term that you found, or perhaps &lt;strong&gt;&quot;slightly stylized&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;. And unfortunately, neither of those terms hold much value. For instance, &lt;em&gt;semi-realistic&lt;/em&gt; is a term coined by artists that simply means &quot;I'm not trying for realism&quot;, which describes a great majority of art. It's sort of akin to referring to the Romanticism, Abstract, Pop art and all these other eras combined as the Semi-realism periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it seems you're trying to analyze how to convert these images from digital to traditional media, it may help you to think of them in gray scale. Or, if you have access to digital tools or a black and white printer, to &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; convert them to gray scale. That way you'll be looking at the stroke for their values and not getting confused by their &quot;hues&quot;. Ross Tran's vibrant hues may remind you of cartoons, but I believe you'll think differently once you see the images in black-and-white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point to make is that knowing the name of the style, in this case, doesn't really help in learning to draw it. What's going to help is finding examples of what you'd like to draw, and drawing them. And also just drawing everything else. While I can't speak to this artist's journey, &lt;strong&gt;many start by learning how to draw as realistically as possible&lt;/strong&gt;, practicing and studying artistic anatomy and live models. As their expertise grows, they're able to bend the &quot;rules&quot; of anatomy and develop their own style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T20:02:02.463" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T20:02:02.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2740" CreationDate="2017-02-21T07:43:16.520" Score="6" ViewCount="4361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like, in order to prevent frays, to glue the sides and the thread stops of a finished work. The work should then be washable, since it is for a baby toy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sides of the work will be tucked inside and not accessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which kind of glue should l use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-23T12:07:29.753" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T20:50:50.493" Title="Glue for sides of cross stitch work" Tags="|sewing|safety|cross-stitch|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2017-02-21T12:41:37.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, it's been three days so I will propose a solution that I learned many years ago.  I was taking art classes and quickly developed a friendship with some of the other students in the class. This friendship resulted in after class &quot;informal study groups&quot; where we would just get together and work on our individual art etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, just being around other artists can be a bit intimidating (i.e. eyes peering over your shoulder), so I had become a little apprehensive and froze in front of my blank canvas. It didn't take long for my inaction to catch the attention of one of my classmates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He asked me what was the hold up? and I told him I had &quot;artist block&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, he put his tools down and told me to come over to his work. He told me to look at it and get a feeling from it (where is it going? What ideas does it inspire in your mind? etc... ), because sometimes it's easier to critique someone else's work, than to be detached and objective about your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then he said: &quot;if you don't already have something specific in mind, would you mind if I went over to your canvas and just put down a few marks?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was shocked! And as I stood there dumbfounded, he motioned to his work and said, &quot;feel free to implement any ideas you might have for my piece, while I take a crack at yours. Then when you get back to your work, you can just continue where I left off, and I will do the same when I get back to my own.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I asked: &quot;But aren't you worried that I might ruin it?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And he said, &quot;How could you possibly ruin it? The canvas was completely blank when I started. Anyway, feel free to 'ruin' it as much as you think you are able. Consider it a challenge. You 'ruin' it, so that I can get some practice 'fixing' it. What could be more inspiring than that?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that experience, I never had a fear of imperfection again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T12:41:37.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2017-02-21T14:58:28.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try &lt;strong&gt;fray check&lt;/strong&gt;. These glues tend to be thinner, which would give you a less noticeable and stiff edge. They are usually clear, but may yellow over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that isn't strong enough, you could try &lt;strong&gt;fabric glue&lt;/strong&gt;, which as the name suggests, is specifically made for bonding fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also finish the back of your piece without glue! After mounting on a board or in a hoop, fold the raw edges under and stitch across from one side to another, keeping the fabric taut and in place. You can then cover up the back by sewing on another piece of fabric. This is often done with felt which does not fray, but you could use any fabric as long as you tuck the raw edges under.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T14:58:28.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2017-02-21T15:30:50.167" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a famous story about a ceramics professor who separated his class into two groups of students. The students in Group A were graded solely on a single pot they presented at the end of the semester, whereas the students in Group B were graded on how many pots they produced during the semester: quality vs. quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the course of the semester, the Group A students were agonizing over perfecting the minutest details of their pot, while Group B was furiously churning out pots left and right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end, the professor examined everyone's pots, and Group B had higher quality work - even though they were only being graded on quantity! The Group A students, though they had been trying to achieve high quality, simply did not have the same amount of experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moral of the story is, &lt;strong&gt;practice makes perfect&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution to your &quot;artist's block&quot; is not unlike writer's block. You can find prompts and assignments to force yourself to do something until inspiration strikes again. Most of all, you must accept that your early drafts will suck, and &lt;em&gt;make them anyways&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found it very inspirational looking at re-makes or progression pictures from artists, to see how their technique and style have evolved over the years. To me, it underscores that making art is a learned skill, not some innate talent that you either have or don't have. Sadly too many people believe this, and simply give up on art because their skills are still grade school level and they haven't grown them since. But if you put in the work you will get better and better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T15:30:50.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-21T20:36:10.050" Score="5" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently installed LIFX colored light bulbs in my room.  However, my wall is currently painted a fairly saturated blue, against which some of the bulb colors strike me at least initially as unpleasant. For unrelated reasons, my room will be painted soon, but the new bulb acquisition will surely influence my paint color decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably a very neutral, unsaturated, light paint color would look best with the widest range of bulb color settings. Do colored bulb owners typically opt for straight, untinted white wall paint, or would some sort of neutral off white/khaki/gray/etc. work as well? What range of paint colors would be commonly considered viable for such a room?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1638" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T08:02:07.233" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T08:02:07.233" Title="What range of wall color options would be generally considered aesthetically viable for a room with colored light bulbs?" Tags="|paint|color-theory|lighting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-02-22T20:17:38.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2017-02-21T20:44:59.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will re-state that practice makes perfect. How do you 'churn out drawings' as quickly as possible? You stop revising/editing your work. My grandmother was an art teacher and she told me that for the most part, I should avoid using an eraser if using a pencil or to just use a pen. Gain confidence in yourself by removing the possibility of 'mistakes'. If you can't erase a mark it's meant to be there, if it really isn't meant to be there draw it again. Instead of focusing on a 'mistake' or making part of a drawing 'just right' you keep on drawing until you finish. Then if you want you can re-draw the piece again to improve it. Nothing will happen if you don't start drawing or if you keep erasing 'mistakes' so don't use an eraser, just draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T20:44:59.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2017-02-22T09:15:21.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer, I don't own such a bulb. This is straight color theory and design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LED bulbs such as your smart bulb use additive color. They operate by combining Red/Green/Blue light at varying intensities to create the 16 million combinations given in the specs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your wall paint works with subtractive color or pigments. They work by absorbing some R/G/B light and reflecting the rest. So your blue wall actually absorbs mostly red and green, reflecting  blue back to your eye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that when your LED is adding colors that more heavily rely on red and green (yellows and oranges), they won't look as appealing on your blue wall. This is because little if any blue is emitted, so little if any blue is reflected. On top of this, the wall still reflects some red and green as usual, and mixing it altogether leads to unattractive browns and greys. You can test this by changing your bulb to pure green and shining it on a red object, such as an apple, with no other light. The apple will likely look unattractive and greyish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change your wall to any other color, and the same thing will happen, except you've just adjusted which portion of the color wheel is affected. Darker walls will be more adversely affected because dark walls, by nature, already reflect less or absorb more of the light coming at them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if your goal is to have your walls look pleasant under any of the 16 million color possibilities, assuming they're all pleasant, then lighter neutral shades or white are your best bet. This is because they will reflect back the most even light. The goal is to not have the pigment of the wall muddy the color by unevenly absorbing and reflecting the light shone on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, 16 million colors is quite a color palette to try and coordinate a room around, and walls are not the only points of color. Furniture, decor and other accents may also play a factor in your decision. If you'd like to use a certain color palette in your decorating, then you may want to consider limiting your use of the LED's spectrum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, you could venture into some wall colors that take advantage of the spectrum you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; use. For instance, if you decide to eliminate yellow from the LIFX, then there's a wider variety of blue wall hues that'd look pleasant under the remaining lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T09:15:21.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2017-02-22T15:53:28.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;White is the best option for colored bulbs. Anything else would be more limiting. I have a video about this subject, but I have recieved complaints on this site for posting links to my videos, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway CreationEdge is absolutley correct about the difference of additive vs subtractive rules of color theory. However, they have neglected the question of human perception of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humans decern &quot;3 primary colors&quot; because we perceive color variation through cone cells in our eyeballs. We have three different types of cone cells, each type is receptive to a very specific range of light waves. When light waves are presented to our eyes that stimulate different types of cone cells, we see compound colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to the issue of &quot;how colors make us feel,&quot; and why are some colors brighter than others (e.g. Lime green vs violet), things get much more interesting. This is due to the fact that between the 3 different types of cone cells in our eyes (short, medium, and long), we do not have an even distribution of cone cells. Therefore, cone cells that are in great abundance, will be sending much more signal to the brain when stimulated, than cone cells which are fewer in number (like the ones receptive to &quot;blue&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's the issue of cellular stimulation fatige. So for example, when you stare at &quot;red&quot;, you see it very quickly and brightly, it stands out (which is why we use that color for alerts), because the cone cell type responsible for perception of this wave lenghth of ligh is in great abundance. But these cells get quicky fatigued, and eventually the &quot;red&quot; object begins to appear &quot;green&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to your original question, concerning colored light reflecting off a colored object, there is no greater resource than Leonardo Da Vinci &quot;On Painting.&quot; He discuses in great detail, the subject of reflected light. I also recommend Joseph Albers' book (the title of which escapes me at the moment) and Goeth &quot;Optics&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1615" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T15:53:28.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2749" CreationDate="2017-02-23T16:22:34.277" Score="7" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy crafting leather armour. As part of an Orc design I am going for, I would like to buy some animal fur to complete the brutish/primal look. I have bought several faux furs off ebay, but they either look incredibly cheap, or they &quot;shed&quot; a lot of hair. So I turned to authentic animal furs, which definitely look much better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to google around and see whether some furs are the byproduct of keeping an animal for other purposes such as consumption- i.e. I am trying not to support any farms that hold animals just for pelts. A lot of the furs on ebay are rabbit fur. In some of the item descriptions, the sellers explain what the rabbits are kept for and it seems harmless to buy some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I remain unsure of the practice of selling fur and whether it might be unfairly demonised (and is actually not that bad), or whether there is no such thing as &quot;ethical fur&quot;. So I relay that question to other crafts(wo)men that may have used fur in the past or have some more experience with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1654" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-02-23T16:26:20.797" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T19:44:59.870" Title="Is it possible to buy 'ethical fur'?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2746" CreationDate="2017-02-23T16:58:52.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll note that I've not used these products myself. I'm neither vegan nor anti-fur, so the information is based on my understanding of the fur/leather issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're already making &lt;strong&gt;leather&lt;/strong&gt; armor. Many of the people who are anti-fur are often also anti-leather because they're technically the same thing. While you might certainly attract a few other people (if only for marketing reasons) by offering &amp;quot;ethical&amp;quot; fur that was a byproduct of food rabbits production, I doubt that you're &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; going to attract that many additional people. You also have to consider that the variety of rabbit used for food and those used for fur may not be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2015/feb/15/is-wearing-leather-less-moral-than-wearing-fur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;interesting point of view&lt;/a&gt; from The Guardian:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is worse? If this were the Ethical Olympics, leather would win on a technicality, being a byproduct of the meat industry. In the minds of many, this makes it OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps because we sanction most leathers, we haven’t come up with a convincing alternative: pleather jostles for space with less impactful versions of real leather, like e-leather (made from scraps), Lite leather (which uses less energy to produce) and even vegetable-tanned leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if leather wins on a technicality, I guess fur from food rabbits would fall into the same category. Other products that might be in this similar group would be sheepskin and (possibly) goat. Angora goats are often used for fibers in the same way sheep wool is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another solution. Have you really looked at a wide variety of faux fur products? Some of them must be pretty good if &lt;a href=&quot;http://eluxemagazine.com/fashion/friends-of-faux-our-top-8-faux-fur-designers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;major brand designers&lt;/a&gt; are using them.  I strongly recommend that you not find them on Ebay... most sellers on Ebay are Chinese companies selling low-quality product. Do some research and find quality sellers, hopefully someone who will even send you samples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T16:58:52.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2746" CreationDate="2017-02-23T19:53:56.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was in New Zealand they sold &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_brushtail_possum_in_New_Zealand&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;possum&lt;/a&gt; fur as 'doing your thing to make our country better.' Possums being a pest and without predators in the country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are likely other countries with animals which are a real pest and get hunted, skinned and prepared as fur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do happen to know people who hunt for food, who prepare their pelts and are willing to sell or share, you might be able to get a much wider range of fur than you would by just going to shops.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I live in a country where only very few people hunt, so I only know this from books and internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-02-24T19:44:59.870" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T19:44:59.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2746" CreationDate="2017-02-23T21:41:51.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rework an antique fur coat!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My grandmother keeps encouraging me to take hers, which I really don't want -- but the point is there may be many other such coats that used to be valued and sought after, but are now of very little interest to most potential wearers. Asking around thrift stores or estate sale agents may give some leads; even if they would typically discard such items due to probable disinterest, letting them know you're interested means they could inform you next time an old coat is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's significantly damaged (moths, mold, just old age), all the better: it is unlikely to have any further use as a &lt;em&gt;coat&lt;/em&gt;, but could readily be repurposed into &lt;em&gt;accents on a costume&lt;/em&gt;. This is perhaps the most ethical use of all: you're not resulting in any new animals dying (even if humanely raised and slaughtered), but instead salvaging something that would otherwise end up in a landfill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But like anything ethical, it's sort of down to your personal perspective and comfort level. There's also an argument to be made that if it wasn't humane and ethical in the first place, it isn't now just because decades passed between the animal's demise and your use of its pelt.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2017-02-23T21:41:51.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-24T06:04:28.487" Score="5" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is for a research paper and I used the term richness to refer to saturation and value. Is this a valid term to use for the combination of the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1658" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T02:51:59.903" Title="What does a pigment's richness refer to?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2754" CreationDate="2017-02-24T14:33:38.173" Score="4" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was gifted a small set of quality markers (think Copic, not Crayola). The last time I used markers to color was as a kid where I just scribbled in solid colors. The ink was always a little uneven and you could see where the strokes overlap. Since these are nice, I want to make sure I'm  using them properly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with techniques for acrylic paints, watercolors, and colored pencil. I suspect watercolor techniques are the most similar to markers, as far as layering colors, but there's obviously quite a few differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some basic techniques for using markers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T16:11:31.923" Title="Techniques for markers" Tags="|markers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2753" CreationDate="2017-02-24T16:41:02.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of artists online who use Copic markers or a mix of Copic, other brands and even other media like pencils to create texture or white ink for highlights. Often a lot of cool images you see online are actually a mix media of markers and other materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets start at the beginning though... You mentioned markers you used to use had uneven coloring. Most basic markers or kids markers will do this. Markers like Copic, ProMarkers etc are alcohol based, they don't dry as quickly on the page, allowing you to create a nice block of color or to blend two colors together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be careful when coloring though, your color edge can dry and then you'll be left with a visible seam in your color block. Always follow the wet edge of color adding to it each time before it dries, and even go back over your colors so you get a solid block of ink down if that's what you're looking for, as the first pass might be a bit uneven depending on your paper type. &#xA;This video will help explain what I mean if you're like me and like to learn visually: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZpBpAdQliU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZpBpAdQliU&lt;/a&gt;.  That YouTube channel actually has a good amount of information on Copics that may help you get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a great way to start is to practice blending colours together if that's your style. I suggest diving in and using the markers to get a feel for them, I used promarkers for a long time and it took be a little while to get used to them at the beginning because they were very different from what I was used to (Faber Castell / Crayola etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper is always an important factor to me. Specifically designed marker paper (Daler&amp;amp;Rowney, Letraset, Copic etc all make it) helps maintain control over the ink flow. For me anyway, drawing on regular paper or cardstock meant going too close to the edge of my ink outline risked it leaking beyond - Marker paper was amazing for this and reduced bleed a huge amount for me. It may all depend on your style and what kind of pieces you want to make. Don't just stick with one paper type, try a few and experiment, you'll probably find you prefer different papers for different styles and quickly choose a favorite.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from blending another great way to use these types of markers is by layering in blocks. Rather than constantly trying to blend seams together, you can make great pieces by being hard and direct with your strokes, or make pieces that feel dynamic and full of motion by being loose and rough. Terrance_Unchained on Instagram is a great example of this. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/terrance_unchained/?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instagram.com/terrance_unchained/?hl=en&lt;/a&gt;. He uses chisel tipped copics a lot of the time to layer down blocks of color. If you follow the link in his profile he does a tutorial on his style. He also uses other inks and pencils etc to highlight and texture areas like I mentioned at the start. One of my favorite techniques of his that gave me an &quot;omg that's genius moment&quot; is when he's finishing up a picture, he'll go over the whole thing with the one color to tie all the tones together - I've yet to try this myself but it looks really cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this all this helps! Good luck with your Marker adventure!&#xA;Clare &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-02-26T16:11:31.923" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T16:11:31.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2017-02-24T16:52:50.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about using clear or tinted slime? Like the kind you can get in kids tubs. That will conform to a clear tub happily making it seem like a petri-dish. You can also then remove most of the part representations or separate them out if you need to for separate lessons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good way to show a membrane too. Allows items in and to pass though, but also holds itself together rather well. Unless stretched out by students of course! Only negative side is you might find it absorbs a lot of dirt if passed around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make your own slime with borax too, no need to buy. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qAqtYpi2wQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qAqtYpi2wQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T16:52:50.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2017-02-24T19:56:44.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also try using fusible hemming tape or fusible interfacing. You could then prepare the edges either by laying the hemming tape about 1/2&quot; from the edges of your cross stitch fabric, and then folding the edge down and adhering the whole thing with your iron (follow the instructions for hemming tape, and you will see what I mean.  Or you could use a wide strip of fusible interfacing and fold it over the edge of the cross stitch fabric, so that the fold in the interfacing is protecting the edge.  Both of these types of material are designed to remain fixed in place with washing, and I don't trust fabric glue quite as much.  It does mean that your cross stitch fabric has to be able to withstand an iron--if it is standard Aida cloth it should be fine, but if you are using fabric with some sort of coating, I would test a little bit before ironing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way...I have never tried this, but there is no reason you couldn't fix the edges in this way before beginning to work your cross stitch pattern.  As long as you are using interfacing or tape that is the correct weight for your fabric (slightly lighter weight than the fabric itself), it shouldn't interfere with using an embroidery hoop, and will keep the edges neater throughout the project.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T19:56:44.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2405" CreationDate="2017-02-24T20:23:33.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this can be considered an answer or not, but when I was a kid my friends and I spent a lot of time drawing horses.  I always drew my horses with the head on the left side of the page and the tail on the right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point, we decided to all try drawing with our non-dominant hand. I am right-handed, so I started drawing with my left hand.  What was interesting at the time (and even more fascinating now that I think of it as an adult), is that I could only draw horses facing the opposite direction--i.e. with their heads on the right side of the page and their tails to the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I find it so interesting thinking back on it, is that it offers some insight into how your brain works differently when you are using your different hands. I would guess if you made a practice of this, once you got past the phase where you were simply developing your ability to use your non-dominant hand, you might find that your style is very different depending on which hand you use, or that you can render certain things more effectively with one hand versus the other.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T20:23:33.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2753" CreationDate="2017-02-24T20:56:03.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to start using markers again and confronted the same issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution was to try stippling and cross-hatching. My markers are super cheap  but I'm thrilled with the effects of stippling. It's not for the faint of heart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check out some the details on my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/trhonda/?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instagram&lt;/a&gt;. Notice in the &quot;Treasure&quot; dragon to the extreme left I used hatching for a red jewel. I did not like the effect as well as stippling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stippling allows you to mix colors, vary tones and values, create transparency and texture effects, and is very forgiving. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dezFy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dezFy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;detail of &amp;quot;Peacock&amp;quot; dragon stippled with cheap markers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1670" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T20:56:03.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2643" CreationDate="2017-02-24T21:37:24.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your photo is printed on a home inkjet or laser printer, a liquid medium will cause the image to bleed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a professionally printed image just make sure to not overwork any liquid medium. Try using a Popsicle stick to evenly distribute a thin layer of the glue quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also try a gloss or matt spray finish. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.krylon.com/products/preserve-it-digital-photo-paper-protectant/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Krylon makes one specifically for digitally printed photos&lt;/a&gt; but I'm sure it would work for professional photos as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray a very light coat of finish and then lightly sprinkle your diamond dust. The Krylon says it's dry to the touch in about 10 minutes. This should give you plenty of time to apply the amount of diamond dust you want. (You don't have to have a wet surface for the diamond dust to adhere, just a lightly tacky one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, even though something says &quot;dries clear&quot; doesn't mean it won't affect the intensity of the image. You are putting an additional barrier (albeit super thin) on top of your image. Light now has to travel through that layer to reach the image--some dullness or distortion may result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not use spray glue. That stuff is a nightmare and not intended for delicate jobs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1670" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T21:37:24.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2766" CreationDate="2017-02-25T01:58:13.990" Score="1" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using acrylic boards to make a desktop file organizer. The area of the bottom is 8&quot;x4&quot;, and it has 4 legs. I will use circuit board standoffs(spacers) as the legs. The height of each leg will be between 30mm ~ 50mm. I need to add weight to the bottom of each leg separately to make the bottom heavier. I was thinking about using coins, but would like to know other alternatives that are better and look nicer,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question:&#xA;How to add weight to the bottom of each leg so the bottom is heavier? (I don't want to add a second layer of an acrylic board to the bottom of the legs. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for sharing your ideas. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T23:34:59.440" Title="How to add weights to circuit board standoffs(spacers) of a acrylic board?" Tags="|plastic|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1848" CreationDate="2017-02-25T13:38:29.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made numerous soap carvings over the years, and have learned the following:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used mainly Ivory and Swan soaps, which were available in large bath sizes. The clear finishes I tried tended to deteriorate in time, giving a flaking appearance to the carvings. (Probably not good lacquers.)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaving my carvings untreated resulted in changes in color as they dried, and the resulting tones ranged from light ivory to dark cream. An uncoated 14-piece Nativity set has pieces of different shades.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At my daughter's request, I used ACRYLIC PAINTS to color a carving of the bride and groom for her wedding cake--and the colors (and the soap) have NOT deteriorated with age.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have since used acrylic paints on other carvings, with great success. Acrylics can be applied in a single color, to match (or not) the color of the original soap, or painted in detail if a more realistic result is desired. Though I have not tried it, I suspect that applying any finish to a carving already coated with acrylic paint would be the same as adding the finish to any acrylic painting.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I display some of my favorite carvings under small bell jars, an added way to preserve them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;GLYCERIN soap, however, is a different case. I absolutely love the immediate results of carving it, but I haven't yet learned of a coating that will keep the soap from becoming sticky and melting as it gets older.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my search for a coating to preserve a glycerin soap carving, I contacted a glycerin soap manufacturer, who sympathized with my dilemma and confessed that it took years for the manufacturer just to come up with a secure wrapping to use in marketing this soap!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1673" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-03-05T01:09:08.883" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T01:09:08.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-25T19:03:36.970" Score="5" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SJueG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this pattern step what do I do with the bodice lining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T22:07:46.643" Title="Sewing pattern confusion" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2763" CreationDate="2017-02-25T22:07:46.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, you &lt;strong&gt;get the lining out of the way as much as possible&lt;/strong&gt;. Fold it up as far as it will go without causing the outer layer to wrinkle too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instruction is to sew both skirt layers (outer and lining) to the outer layer of the bodice. The seam allowance gets pressed towards the bodice (upwards, from the finished dress perspective).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be a step (not necessarily the next, but probably soon) where the lining gets placed back to the original position again, the seam allowance folded inwards, ironed and sewn down, so that all excess material is hidded inside the bodice part. This makes the seam look nice from the inside as well and is more comfortable than having the seam allowance bits directly against your skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T22:07:46.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2760" CreationDate="2017-02-25T23:34:59.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, one can expect that more weight, as low as possible, will accomplish your objective. With circuit board standoffs, you have a threaded hole at one end and a threaded stud at the other. This provides for easily attached weights in various forms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've considered coins, which if chosen successfully, can be attractive. Think various sizes of coins from countries around the world, with holes drilled to accept the bolt you'll use to attach to the standoff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US coins are somewhat lightweight and poorly suited for such a project, in my opinion. Masses composed of lead will provide the best weight per volume but lead has its own complications. It's not dangerous to handle but there are some health considerations. I have a cupcake tin that I use to make lead ingots, about 80 mm in diameter and 30 mm thick, probably too large for your purpose. I then dipped them in a product called &lt;a href=&quot;https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PlastiDip&lt;/a&gt; which is also available in spray form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is attractive to you, it's a matter of picking a suitable mold (silicone molds can work) and finding someone to pour. Fishermen will frequently create their own sinkers and avid weapons owners will cast their own rounds, providing at least two resources for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If lead doesn't cut it, steel would be the next available option. Steel washers, both stainless and galvanized forms are available at big box stores and mom-and-pop hardware stores as well. Pick a size for your taste and aim for either the hole size to match the thread size of the hole, or match the hole size to the outside diameter of your stand-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with the possibly-unsightly washer option, you can still apply PlastiDip spray to provide a colorful rubber coating for surface protection and cosmetic appeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-02-25T23:34:59.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2514" CreationDate="2017-02-26T00:34:36.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all thread is equal. Very cheap thread will be fuzzy, hard to thread through a needle eye, knot easily as you sew and break easily due to short fiber length and cheap manufacturing. Cotton thread can also rot over time. Even polyester thread will degrade over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test the thread before you spend a lot of time sewing with it. Pull a bit off of the spool, hold an end in each hand, yank it and if the thread breaks very easily, toss it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make your hand sewing experience a little more hassle free, thread your needle with thread that is about 36 &quot; long. Knot one end. Run the thread through a chunk of beeswax. Iron the thread to soak the wax in. This will discourage the thread from tangling. Don't use wax if you are sewing white fine fabric that will show wax marks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favourite hand sewing thread is Rice's silamide finishing thread but it is not available everywhere: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkZ33TC5k_Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkZ33TC5k_Y&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1675" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T00:34:36.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2017-02-26T02:10:57.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once, in a life drawing session, our instructor had us play musical easels (sort of) We each worked on a sketch for 5-10 minutes and then moved to the easel to the left for another 5-10 minutes and again until we had each worked on all seven sketches (class of 7). It can relax a person to already have work on paper when they start, and it will help  to see what the previous artist saw and how they chose to depict it. While some students disliked the teacher drawing on their sketches, I learned a lot from it and also realized that creating art is NOT about the finished product but the process. Without the process, there cannot be a great work of art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1675" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T02:10:57.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2771" CreationDate="2017-02-26T08:51:28.823" Score="5" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason why many famous paintings and artists use pigments instead of dyes as colorants? Some pigments are quite expensive and I am not sure why artists chose them over dyes, which are usually cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1677" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-03-04T01:08:12.760" LastActivityDate="2022-03-30T17:46:43.010" Title="Why do artists use pigments instead of dyes in paintings?" Tags="|paint|dye|pigments|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2769" CreationDate="2017-02-26T14:05:32.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most artists used the best materials for the job they could afford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While dyes were often cheaper, you would often know that they would lose colour in the next few years, while pigments were often known to hold colour for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But all painters were limited to what they could get and could afford so some would have gone with dyes and their faded pictures might be still on walls.  The well known paintings of old are more likely made with the better materials and withstood the time better and are now more famous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T14:05:32.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2769" CreationDate="2017-02-26T14:46:22.360" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;While more historical artists likely didn't understand the chemical processes behind the behaviors of the two options, the biggest reason is permanence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dyes are organic substances that are either soluble in their medium or in their application. This means the structure of it breaks down as part of the application. The structural breakdown, coupled with the organic state is ultimately why dyes are less permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pigments may be organic or inorganic, but do not break down in their binder or application. Because the structure of the pigment remains intact after application, their application is more permanent assuming it continues to adhere to the surface of the support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that a fair number of artists initially tried dyes over pigments, but in time the knowledge of the behavior differences would have spread from teacher to student. For practice, many may have chosen dyes, but when it came to important works, not likely. Bearing in mind that the expense of many pigments was often born by patrons of a number of the artists, so quality was very likely more important than cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that the extremely expensive pigments, such as lapis lazuli used to make ultramarine, were often reserved for the most important of subjects such as very wealthy nobility or religious works. Less expensive pigments would be mixed for close approximation in other cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2017-02-26T14:46:22.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-26T23:00:33.973" Score="3" ViewCount="2891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an incense holder in Bali made of some kind of light cement-like material which unfortunately broke in our luggage: it's in the shape of a hand, and the pinky finger broke from the top knuckle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems simple enough to repair with glue, but I don't know what type of glue to use for this. It's for indoor use and doesn't bear any load, so obviously does not need to be anything extreme (which is why Googling for an answer to this has not helped - I've mostly found resources about outdoor statues and the like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZeGq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZeGq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1679" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T15:49:43.103" Title="How to glue together this stone-like material?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-26T23:26:42.563" Score="4" ViewCount="1356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to glue twine to a wine bottle and convert it into a lamp/light. Is there a recommended adhesive that will work for this purpose while being safe from the radiant heat of the bulb? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1680" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T00:39:25.927" Title="Is there a heat resistant glue that's appropriate for adhering twine to glass?" Tags="|adhesives|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2773" CreationDate="2017-02-27T00:39:25.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of heat generated by an incandescent light bulb in an enclosure is not particularly great relative to many adhesive types. One can purchase a silicone product known as high temperature RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) which can tolerate temperatures sufficiently high to ignite paper. It's not particularly suited to your project, however, as it is often bright red and would be unsightly if any oozed from between the runs of twine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many epoxies are capable of tolerating high temperatures, especially as they can generate uncomfortable levels during curing. If you scuff up the surface of the bottle with coarse sandpaper prior to applying epoxy, the adhesive will adhere well and provide that much more strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A local hobby shop will carry various types of epoxy. The faster curing versions, frequently called &quot;five minute epoxy&quot; will harden quickly but be weaker than the fifteen minute or thirty minute version. The longer cure types will also tolerate the higher temperatures better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used the 30 minute cure version frequently. It has to be applied when temperatures are at 70°F or above. Some hobbyists also use a heat lamp or incandescent bulb to speed up curing. Heat guns are used, but with temperatures above 450°F from such a device, one risks burning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T00:39:25.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2772" CreationDate="2017-02-27T00:44:23.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The porosity of the material as it appears in the photo would have one aiming for an adhesive with some viscosity. You could have a solid and clean bond with a gel-type super glue. I've recently repaired a similarly irregular break of a less porous substance with Loctite brand gel. It does not seep too deeply into the material, but enough to get a &quot;grip.&quot; Any brand of similar gel super glues would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, a reasonably thick epoxy would accomplish a good bond. Having a break of this nature where the opposing surfaces mate nearly exactly allows for greater surface area, meaning better bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reference the epoxy and gel super glues because I've had good luck in the last few days with both types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is the &quot;goop&quot; type product line, but it's too thick, in my opinion and might not bond into the porous surface as well. Somewhat unsightly at the edges, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The super glue option will give less obvious joins, and the epoxy falls in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T00:44:23.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2772" CreationDate="2017-02-27T15:49:43.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend using standard gorilla glue, the kind that uses water to activate. This foams up a little and works to give good grip between two porous surfaces. You would only need a small amount as the glue foam could leak out and it can be a pain to clean up residue after it has dried. I can't remember exactly off the top of my head but I believe the instructions say you can wipe it off with a damp cloth before it dries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would test it out on other items first so you know what kind of leaking and foaming to expect before you try it on your piece. It also looks like you have incense ash on the hand, make sure the areas you want to join are completely free of dust. It looks like you have a good clean break there, it should go back together without too much hassle but if there are any gaps where chips of stone were lost the foaming glue should fill them in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T15:49:43.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-28T02:03:58.630" Score="0" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife got a small painted white &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beach-glass&lt;/a&gt; (also known as sea glass) pendant while we were travelling out east (Canada) years ago. I got a good size chip on it somehow recently. The chip is about 1cm&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. I thought about just using some epoxy resin but that would dry clear unlike the translucent appearance of beach glass. While I could rough that surface I do not know how it will look with glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have much to experiment with so I was looking for alternate/supporting ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NAX7R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NAX7R.png&quot; alt=&quot;Glass pendant with chip on edge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to try and repair a large clean chip of beach glass while &lt;em&gt;trying&lt;/em&gt; to maintain its normal appearance? I no longer have the shard so gluing it back on is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T17:23:22.043" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T17:37:14.207" Title="What can I use to repair a beach glass pendant?" Tags="|glass|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-28T22:02:12.533" Score="1" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in how I might go about making a neoprene (closed cell) foam rubber case for a clock. The clock looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1bkGF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1bkGF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clock&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clock is about 10 inches wide at the longest dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to get foam rubber. The problem is how to turn it into a case that opens and closes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-10-10T03:36:10.733" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T07:54:43.107" Title="Make foam rubber case" Tags="|foam|rubber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2779" CreationDate="2017-02-28T22:28:57.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you suggest that you are using foam rubber, the term invokes many different types of materials with the same name. The density and stiffness of the various choices provide some challenge to a good design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better options include neoprene and also EVA foam. The latter is relatively inexpensive and can be found in the form of floor cushion squares with puzzle cut edges. It is rigid enough from which you can build a box, yet protective enough for your clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, one can find it in various colors, although grey is most common and probably the least expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foam will melt if you use hot glue to assemble the box. A better choice is a contact cement, specifically a water based product to prevent the foam from dissolving from the cement. Epoxy will also work well, but takes longer to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a lid to open and close, you can secure a piece of thin leather (long lasting, durable, flexible to one edge and the top or front. Embed magnets in the foam edge to match and you'll have a secure closing system as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: with the additional awareness that the foam is neoprene, I've found there is a solvent based contact adhesive specifically for neoprene. Search for &quot;contact adhesive for neoprene rubber&quot; and you'll have plenty of returns. Amazon lists many and I'm sure there are other sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to have thick rubber to make the magnet idea work either. You can bond a magnet inside a flap of rubber in the box and another flap of rubber in the lid. Use as many as needed to ensure a solid closure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One might suggest velcro, aka hook-and-loop, but my experience with that material is that it eventually loses grip, as the loops will pull open over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical clasps can be mounted to thin panels of wood which would be bonded using the aforementioned contact cement, but the flexibility of the enclosure may make that too much of a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2017-02-28T23:24:31.817" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T23:24:31.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-02-28T23:00:22.493" Score="3" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a poor graduate student who is wishing to make a container out of borosilicate. I need pretty tight control over the final shape. Is it possible to work a piece of glass to a specific spec by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a perfect hollow cylinder that will serve as a tank wall, for starters. I have access to a craft center through my school and willingness to learn. I was going to sign up for a class but if this is a pipe dream I will find another means. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a website that has some of the techniques I wish to employ see the following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ilpi.com/glassblowing/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;. I am still wondering how well one can control some of the dimensions. I would be shooting for pretty uniform cross sections. Also they all start with the glass in a tube-like geometry already. How do you even make that from scratch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastEditorUserId="1390" LastEditDate="2017-03-03T17:16:14.810" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T17:16:14.810" Title="How can one blow/work with borosilicate glass to a container of precise dimensions?" Tags="|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2017-03-01T01:05:23.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Borosilicate also goes by the brand name Pyrex. If you perform a search for &quot;borosilicate glass cylinder&quot; you will find some sources of various sizes of tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a sufficient powerful heat source, you can heat the tubing and force it to close. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick bit of research shows the working temperature to be 1245°C, attainable by MAPP gas torches at the consumer level. If you know someone who does gas welding, oxy-acetylene torches will reach the necessary temperatures at a lower cost overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T01:05:23.450" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2647" CreationDate="2017-03-01T20:52:23.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may not be completely understanding your question.  It seems to me that backlighting, by its very nature, is going to change the vibrancy of the enamel color, and thereby change the color itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, assuming I am understanding your question correctly, what you are attempting to do is called &quot;plique a jour&quot; enameling.  Basically, plique a jour enameling mimics the look of stained glass using silver wire (or a silver sheet with sawn holes) and enamel.  There are lots of videos and tutorials on-line--just google &quot;plique a jour enameling.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never done it, but the quick review I did shows that you can lay multiple layers of enamel into the open spaces. I think that you could probably use a clear enamel to fill in your open spaces until the enamel is level with the top of your silver sheet, and then lay a coat of colored enamel over the entire piece, covering the silver and the clear enamel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will that accomplish what you are trying to do?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-03-02T01:26:48.360" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T01:26:48.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2769" CreationDate="2017-03-02T01:24:18.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, dyes work via chemical reactions with the materials around them--the type of carrier liquid, chemicals within that carrier liquid, the material that they are being applied to, the atmosphere, etc. That means that it is much more difficult to ensure that you can get the same color from one day to another with dyes.  You mention indigo--when you first pull something out of a indigo dyepot, it is a sort of yellow-green color, and it has to undergo oxidation to change to blue. I don't know this for sure, but imagine that different carriers with different viscosity (linseed oil vs. water, for example) could impact the oxidation process and limit how well indigo would work with oil painting, for example.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @John Cavan stated in his response, pigments do not break down in their binder, which means that the colors that they produce are much more stable from use to use. I would imagine most artists would prefer that level of predictability when selecting colors for a painting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T01:24:18.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2789" CreationDate="2017-03-02T05:00:55.530" Score="4" ViewCount="7771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 22&quot;x28&quot; posterboard that I'd like to cover in glitter. What can I use to get the glitter to stick to the posterboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1700" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-03T20:15:06.673" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T20:15:06.673" Title="How can I cover a large posterboard with glitter?" Tags="|paper|tool-selection|cardboard|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-02T10:51:05.517" Score="3" ViewCount="2890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to cast a rod out of clear epoxy resin. (I want to make a fake lightsaber.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious way would be to use a hollow cylinder-shaped mold, but I'm wondering if I have options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine there might be some process involving a spinning object that currently eludes me, that would result in a rod with a perfectly smooth surface—smoother than could be achieved by using a mold, due to centrifugal forces and or gravity and such. (&amp;quot;The Force&amp;quot; exempted.) Submerging in some sort of liquid, maybe? Out-of-the-box-thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for molds, suggestions for good molds are welcome too! I was thinking about PVC plumbing pipe, but have no idea how to retrieve the rod (intact) after the epoxy has set. Maybe I could grease the pipe with baking spray prior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1705" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T13:37:21.157" LastActivityDate="2023-06-02T06:21:17.190" Title="Ways to cast a rod shape out of resin?" Tags="|tool-selection|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2634" CreationDate="2017-03-02T10:55:14.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could cast the parts you need with clear acrylic resin and add in some sort of coloring agent. I'm thinking colored ink, but maybe epoxy pigment would do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1705" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T10:55:14.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2786" CreationDate="2017-03-02T13:21:58.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want the poster to be solid glitter, not simply speckled, I would use a &lt;strong&gt;spray adhesive&lt;/strong&gt;, which is best with large surfaces. It also will not add additional weight or bow the the poster like a liquid or paste glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray adhesive and glitter are extremely messy. Work outside with plenty of ground cover (I suggest paper) and a large over-spray zone (don't spray near cars, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend working the entire surface of the poster at once and not in sections. Previously glittered sections will get over-spray and you'll end up with sections of the poster with thicker layers of glitter than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to doing the whole poster will be to follow the directions on the spray glue can and to get a good solid covering of glue on the entire surface before applying glitter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to literally dump a pile of glitter on the sticky poster, pick up the poster and shake the glitter around like you're shifting for gold. When the surface seems covered, turn the poster up facing you and tap the bottom edge a couple of times on the ground to release extra glitter. You should get a good view as to how well it's covered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Above all&lt;/strong&gt;, test your technique! Get a second poster, cut it in quarters, and begin testing your technique until it works the way you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1670" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T13:21:58.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2634" CreationDate="2017-03-02T14:56:33.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get water based glass paints. When I worked in a hobby shop we sold glass paints, and instead of sheets of glass, there were various acrylic shapes or acetate sold with them (I think the brand was Vitrail by LeFranc&amp;amp;Bourgeois). They come in a variety of colors and it may take some mixing to achieve the color you want seen as your LEDs are already blue but a hobby shop should have a wide enough range. Just make sure you buy translucent ones, not opaque - Glass and Tile brands have a mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do practice on spare pieces so you know you can get a nice solid cover without it looking streaky, my memories of the paints are that they're thick like nail varnish. And all the items sold with them were not frosted, they were all smooth. So if your outside edge is not smooth, it may take it the surface a little differently. Alternatively you could airbrush them on to make sure you get an even coating rather than worrying about streaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" LastEditorUserId="1665" LastEditDate="2017-03-03T16:43:25.477" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T16:43:25.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2786" CreationDate="2017-03-02T16:01:49.787" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get stick glue and put it on there, and then just dump your desired amount of glitter on the board before the glue dries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="947" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T16:01:49.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2787" CreationDate="2017-03-02T17:12:20.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of products out there specifically designed for ensuring that items produced in a mold release properly.  They are called (wait for it...) mold release products.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google that and a bunch of different options should pop up for you (I actually googled &quot;mold release for casting&quot; but it might be interesting to see what type of results you get if you leave off the &quot;for casting&quot; part.  Newspaper headline tomorrow:  &lt;strong&gt;Giant mold is released by unknown person, takes over the world!&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now granted, I have never worked with resin, so this is all guesswork on my part. But this is how I would tackle such a project. Saw your piece of PVC pipe in half lengthwise--use the thinnest saw blade possible, and then sand or file the cut edges smooth, so that the two halves come back together snuggly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then line your pipe with something like cling wrap, wax paper, or parchment paper (I would look for an industrial equivalent, so that it won't require so many overlapping individual pieces), making sure to cover the seams between the two pipe halves, so that the liquid will not leak out when you pour.  I think you could probably use something like a glue stick to temporarily adhere the lining to the pipe interior during this process to make it easier to keep the lining in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray the inside of the lining material with the mold release, and then use clamps to reform the pipe into a cylinder.  Pour your resin, and once it has set, you should be able to release the clamps, pull the top half of the pipe off, and remove the liner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that this should work pretty well to eliminate needing to file/smooth the edges where resin could otherwise leak out between the two pipe halves.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T17:12:20.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2787" CreationDate="2017-03-03T17:50:01.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So assuming you want it solid and not hollow. I really think the comment Chris H made about the pre-cast acrylic rod would be a much better option financially and structurally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to go down the route of casting however, the pipe option is one you could do with. If you ensure there's mold release all down the inside of the pipe, giving it a push at the end providing it doesn't decide to fuse with the pipe - lots of people de-mold with air guns too. However, you have to allow for the fact that when resin is curing, it heats up. So even if you make sure you buy the straightest pipe imaginable, you can still run the risk of it warping and trying to fuse with the pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat and general casting also create the other issue - air bubbles. If this is a life size model, then you probably wont find a vaccum chamber to remove the bubbles. You Might get away with it if you have a lot of time to let the air bubbles out - like a resin that cures over a few hours, but if any remain, they will catch any light you throw up though the saber and will stick out like a sore thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast a huge chimney before for a giant replica of the Battersea Power Station. To do this, the blank was made - originally turned by one of the woodworkers on the team, and then detailed ribbing was added. This blank was then cast in silicone rubber using a large pipe it could sit into. This also involved a plug being made too, as the top half was hollow on the inside to reduce weight. Once the silicone jacket was made, before removing the chimney, we removed it from the pipe and created a 3 part (two sides and a bottom) fiber glass jacket which could be bolted together to make sure it kept it's shape. Something that large will not stay straight on it's own. This is the kind of method I think you'd need to use if you want a smooth rod that will be straight and usable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you need to consider is the structural integrity of the rod. A lot of clear resins would not be very shock absorbing if they're cast that long and thin. One bad smack could cause it to break at the hilt - which if you make the mold wouldn't be too bad. An Acrylic Rod would be able to stand up to a bit of abuse, and you can chose to frost it if you want to catch the light better. You can also shape the top so it has a nice dome finish like lightsabers would have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if it's something that's going to take a lot of abuse, no just for display etc. I would recommend getting a Ludosport saber, or at least looking into what kind of polycarbon their lightsabers are made of, as they can withstand a lot and still look rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry I know it sounds fairly negative, and I don't mean to put you off casting if that's what you want to try. I'm just trying to highlight what you're trying to cast is not normally something that would be done when there are other cheaper less time consuming options available. If you want me to go into more detail of how you could use a silicone jacket to make it I can do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" LastActivityDate="2017-03-03T17:50:01.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2798" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-03-04T17:50:36.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is to be used to indicate questions where people look for general information on how to find shops selling what they need.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not for individual shops or even chains of shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T02:23:32.223" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T02:23:32.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2799" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-03-04T17:50:36.443" Score="0" Body="For questions about finding the types of stores that sell the material you need. Not to be used for trying to find particular retailers or shops or specific products." OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T02:25:28.850" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T02:25:28.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-06T06:17:12.763" Score="5" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am crocheting a set of baby booties for an infant using this pattern:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lacycrochet.blogspot.ca/2014/01/crochet-baby-booties-size-0-6-months.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://lacycrochet.blogspot.ca/2014/01/crochet-baby-booties-size-0-6-months.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the booties to be about 3/4 the size for which the pattern is written.  I am using a #3 yarn and a 3.5 mm (E) hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do i adjust the pattern to accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T00:05:03.017" Title="How do I resize (smaller) baby bootie crochet pattern?" Tags="|crocheting|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2808" CreationDate="2017-03-07T13:52:21.313" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a rocket model made of resin. There are two parts I need to adjust and then glue together: one part is a cylinder and the other a cone. (Actually, I've got to do this four times to get four boosters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be as precise as possible here and wonder how I can make sure the sides I'm sanding are leveled. Are there any tricks when sanding a cylinder to ensure the &quot;top&quot; isn't going to incline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that these parts don't have smooth sides so I can't for example stick them into some tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the parts I need to adjust. I drilled holes into the side I need to sand to make sanding quicker (since they're going to be glued together you won't see the holes).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXxqC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXxqCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The parts I need to sand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click to enlarge image&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how they are going to be glued together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPWd3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPWd3m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How the parts are going to be glued together&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click to enlarge image&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1056" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T17:43:58.550" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T18:26:13.520" Title="How to get a precise &quot;top&quot; of a cylinder?" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2726" CreationDate="2017-03-07T16:23:36.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest to remove the stain with water, e.g. rinsing the part of the cloth or using a steam cleaner which has the advantage to be able to clean smaller parts of the cloth. Afterwards the gelatin will have (at least partially) resolved at the respective part of the painting (along with most of the watercolor). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To retain the structure that is needed to paint on the cloth, gelatin has to be added back on to the parts where the stain has been removed. For this the entire cloth has to be damp (not wet) before the gelatin is added to ensure flexibility of the material and to allow it to stretch evenly along the frame once dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove stain by rinsing with water or with a steam cleaner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cautiously dampen the cloth from the side of the cloth you have not drawn on (this will minimize bleed of the colors). This is the most delicate part. The cloth only needs to be so damp that it will have some slack on the frame. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'paint' the part of the cloth where the stain was removed with gelatin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you can repaint the cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T16:23:36.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2778" CreationDate="2017-03-07T16:45:08.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best way will be to use resin and mix it with some pigment. Some &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resellers&lt;/a&gt; even advertise their resin colors and pigments saying that they produce an opaque look similar to sea or beach glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically any pigment of the color of the pendent mixed with some white pigment will work. However some trials are necessary to obtain a coloring matching the pendent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end sanding the surface of the colored epoxy with a very fine grit sandpaper will also provide the surface structure of sea glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-03-07T17:37:14.207" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T17:37:14.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2805" CreationDate="2017-03-07T18:26:13.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a table saw, you can place the cylinder against the miter guide and carefully advance it into the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a non-power-tool related option, a hand saw miter box will provide similar, perhaps easier alignment. The typical hand saw will chew up the ends of the cylinder, but here's the good part. Use rubber cement to attach a sheet of sandpaper of desired grit to the side of the saw blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be necessary to shim the cylinder to place it higher than the saw blade teeth. As you press the cylinder against the front or back of the miter box, you'll also apply pressure toward the sandpaper coated blade. Rotate the cylinder as you sand to avoid irregularities caused by the fore and aft motion of the saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps if you have three hands and especially if you bolt or otherwise clamp the miter box to a solid surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p5Zur.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p5Zur.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;miter box in use&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your skill set, you can construct your miter box, buy a kit or purchase from retail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hobbyist grade milling machine. I can clamp the cylinder in the vise, true it up to a few thousandths of an inch and mill the end true. That's overkill, and also a power tool option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good disk sander will have a miter guide and will be true to the disk plane, but again, expensive power tools may not be your best selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the ability to drill a hole to match your cylinder squarely in a piece of wood, you can insert the cylinder and shave away the off-true portion with a plane, or use a sanding block. This last option is the least-tech, least-equipment method one can use, I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another glance at your images shows that the protrusions on the cylinders may cause some out-of-true results. If you have a continuous line on the side of the cylinder to use as contact point for the miter box, the chance of success is higher. For a miter box to work, you'd have to have two lines clear, ninety degrees apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the hole-in-the-board method, you could get away with slicing into the edge of the hole clearance slots for the protrusions. The remainder of the hole's edges would provide the support and alignment needed for a good result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T18:26:13.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-07T21:40:59.310" Score="3" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner with respect to sewing and I'm wondering how I can use my Brother 847 to accomplish the following seam: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y66rn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y66rn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some context you may check out this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://video.bellroy.com/test.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://video.bellroy.com/test.mp4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this kind of seam/technique have a name I can search for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1731" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T00:35:44.807" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T00:35:44.807" Title="How to sew this seam with a Brother 847 sewing machine?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2809" CreationDate="2017-03-08T13:02:47.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That seam looks like &lt;strong&gt;topstitching&lt;/strong&gt;. It's done using a straight stitch, typically set to a longer stitch length than construction seams. Topstitching can be a decorative finishing technique, but also serves the purpose of keeping seams flat and in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the example is made of a leather-like material - topstitching is very common for that, since the material won't fray and tucking the raw edges under would make seams very bulky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do the stitching for this particular item by machine, you can try holding the pocket out so only the pocket edge is under the presser foot, but you will have to be careful when feeding it through to keep the seam even. This looks possible with the pattern - since you haven't stitched the ends of the wallet yet, it'll be like sewing half of a cuff (only a bit more stubborn depending on how stiff the leather is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be easier to topstitch the pocket &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; assembling, so it's just a flat piece you run through the machine, but that would require changing the pattern so the back section and the pocket sections are separate rather than one continuous piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T13:44:15.580" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T13:44:15.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2813" CreationDate="2017-03-08T16:03:52.913" Score="6" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know how the registration of wood blocks works in the Japanese-style wood block printing method (put registration marks on the block to align the paper: see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKSrgKjevPmNZxCAyTZP5cQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube channel&lt;/a&gt;). Since the woodblock is wet with paste and pigments, the paper adheres to the block and the print can be rubbed off by hand with a barren. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does registration work with European-style wood block printing, where a printing press is used instead of rubbing by hand with a barren? I imagine that, if you don't fix the paper on the block in some way, the paper might shift while you slide the block (and paper) through the press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-11-27T20:17:11.123" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T20:17:11.123" Title="Aligning multi-color woodblock print?" Tags="|wood|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2800" CreationDate="2017-03-08T17:36:29.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest solution is to use a smaller hook. You might also need thinner yarn so your booties aren't too stiff/thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a smaller hook, you'll have to change the pattern. It's hard to tell you exactly how without having crocheted the pattern because a bootie has a fairly complicated shape. One strategy you can try is to make one bootie as written to get a better idea of the construction. It would be a fast job since it's a small item, and once you've completed it you might find you'll have a better idea of how to make it smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1197" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T17:36:29.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2811" CreationDate="2017-03-08T17:54:53.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bachelor's degree was in Fine Arts, with a focus on wood block printing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique I was taught involved marking the center line on the back of the leading edge of the paper. (The end that will feed into the press first.) On the press, lay out a registration paper that clearly marks the location of the block, a corresponding center line, and one or both leading corners. The block is inked and laid on the slab. Then, align the center lines and corner marks, with the other end held high. Slowly &quot;roll&quot; the paper flat onto the block while keeping the leading edge aligned. This minimizes inappropriate contact and ensures a flat lay on the block. The ink will loosely hold the paper in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the paper is laid, heavy felt blankets are usually laid over the entire thing. There is the chance for paper movement here, so again - a careful &quot;rolling&quot; action from the leading edge back is best. Make sure the weight of the blankets is centered over the block as you do this. These blankets then keep the paper in place while printing, as well as enhancing print quality and embossing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensuring that your press is set to the appropriate height is very important too. Too much pressure will cause damage to the paper, or movement of the block and/or the paper. Once printed, the blankets and then paper are removed in a similar but opposite method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T17:54:53.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2823" CreationDate="2017-03-09T15:15:21.557" Score="8" ViewCount="41538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to finish a lamp I made of brazed chain, and so far my reading has uncovered blackening with oil (linseed or motor), or with apple cider vinegar. What is the difference between these two? The vinegar seems to create a thin layer of Ferric Acetate on the steel piece, but how does the oil quench actually function as far as forming the protective layer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For indoor use, are there any other finishes I can do at home worth looking into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1740" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T03:04:01.857" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T03:04:01.857" Title="Blackening steel with oil vs. vinegar - and others?" Tags="|metalworking|finishing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-09T16:36:45.150" Score="3" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the line cutting technique in western wood block printing differ from the one in japanese wood cut? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In japanese wood block printing the line is cut almost exclusively by a sharp pointed knife - the hangi to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/duB91.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/duB91.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Japanese hangi to&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;by cutting at the line and then removing the unwanted area with a chisel or a counter cut (especially when lines are close together). Is this the same way lines are cut in western wood cut tradition, what kind of tools are traditionally used for this purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On youtube(e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/rLIFCUSECNI?t=226&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6iUWwJ02Mc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) and instagram you can often see that some artists cut fine lines using a v-gauge. I feel this is an inferior technique as the line might be damaged or the cut might not be deep enough ( also the the gauge has to be very sharp for this and needs to be resharpened frequently)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T20:22:23.123" Title="Line cutting technique for wood blocks: japanese vs. western" Tags="|wood|printing|wood-carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2814" CreationDate="2017-03-09T19:58:52.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending upon how large and/long the chain is you may wish to use beeswax.  Heat the chain to maybe a few hundred degrees (e.g., place in a container in an oven) then rub the wax on it.  You can 'bake' it further to assure an even coat of wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On steel this gives a very nice black finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1741" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T19:58:52.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2815" CreationDate="2017-03-09T20:22:23.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The knife is more common in Japanese printmaking. I unfortunately can't find any sources comparing the two, but I hypothesize that one reason gauges are more common in Western printmaking is due to the influence of wood engraving. Another reason might be the style differences - Japanese prints are much more likely to have strong clear lines and large blocks of color. Note that gauges are still used in Japanese techniques, but usually to remove areas of the block instead of defining the linework.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://letterpresscommons.com/wood-engraving/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;engraving process&lt;/a&gt; was used to create very realistic images and used a tool called a burin, which is essentially a gauge that's been filled in. Engraving involved much harder woods than typical wood blocks, which necessitated the tool. The gauge is more effective at removing large areas of wood and so may have become more predominant that way also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japanese art started having more influence on European art &lt;a href=&quot;https://kiamaartgallery.wordpress.com/2015/05/07/impressionism-the-influence-of-japonisme/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;during Impressionism&lt;/a&gt;. You can see how Western prints evolved away from complex shadow gradients and into a world of higher-contrast and flattened picture plane.  Their tools may have changed at this time too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2017-03-09T20:22:23.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2822" CreationDate="2017-03-10T04:23:18.427" Score="6" ViewCount="2044" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which one out of &quot;pony hair&quot; and &quot;synthetic hair&quot; painting brushes should be used for water colour paintings and cloth painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is one in any case superior than the other in terms of quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one should be preferred for what? I am asking about these two specifically because where I live these are the only ones available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T18:19:19.783" Title="Pony hair vs synthetic hair painting brushes" Tags="|paint|paint-brushes|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2443" CreationDate="2017-03-10T12:33:27.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will this be mounted inside a larger 'table' made with firebricks, refractory, or something else or do you intend it to be 'free standing' as is?  If free standing it should be suitable for light use (demonstrations and such) but I would keep to hand crank blowers as an air source.  I knew a smith who used a cast iron frying pan as a demonstration forge (he cut a hole in the bottom for the tuyere) and what you have looks similar in thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It certainly could be used as the basis for a blacksmithing forge and IMHO would be no less efficient than a brake drum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1741" LastEditorUserId="1741" LastEditDate="2018-02-26T12:16:42.540" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T12:16:42.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2824" CreationDate="2017-03-11T05:07:57.040" Score="-1" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for where to buy a large plexiglass/acrylic cylinder. The exact dimensions don't matter so much but I would like it to fit abound 5 gallons of water (after I close the bottom of course). This is for an aquarium I'm building. I didn't think it would be very hard to find, but no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the US (California to be exact) but will order from anywhere that will ship it to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's nothing available in the required size I am willing to explore the option of casting it myself, but I have no experience with such things and don't really know how difficult it would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1746" LastEditorUserId="1746" LastEditDate="2017-03-11T17:44:46.077" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T18:42:48.683" Title="Large plexiglass cylinder?" Tags="|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-03-13T14:12:17.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2819" CreationDate="2017-03-11T10:35:03.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the synthetic brush that is available. Generally speaking, pony hair brushes are often used in schools since they are inexpensive, yet strong and soft. However, they do not retain the shape of the brush well when wet. Synthetic brushes on the other hand can be both well suited and terrible for painting with watercolors depending on the quality (which has improved largely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you try both and then decide. Take the brush that can hold its shape best when wet while still being able to hold a good amount of liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the best brushes for water color are usually made from mink hair (generally referred to as Kolinsky sable). For further information look &lt;a href=&quot;https://watercolorpainting.com/brushes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/info/brushhair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-08T18:19:19.783" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T18:19:19.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2814" CreationDate="2017-03-11T15:07:54.690" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Treating with vinegar (or other acids) tends to form a dark grey patina, depending on how it is applied it can also also show variations in shade. More viscous things like mustard and tomato sauce can be dabbled or stippled on to create a distinctly mottled effect. Acids also work well to strip off or at least dull bright zing plating and galvanising. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This finish needs to be dried and sealed with wax, oil, lacquer etc fairly quickly (ie within minutes) or it will start to rust. Also because it is somewhat porous it can be a good base for tinted oils and waxes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil blacking works by polymerising and partly burning the oil. Here the temperature is quite important as the metal needs to be hot enough to blacken the oil without burning it off completely. If you watch the oxide colours as it heats up the point when it goes from deep blue to grey is usually about right. This process is pretty similar to seasoning a cast iron pan. You can either dip the piece in a container of oil or paint it on with a rag (don't use a synthetic brush, it will just melt). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil blacking is reasonably stable and doesn't require any additional sealing, although a layer of hard wax, reapplied every so often will make it a bit more durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using linseed oil or similar rather than motor oil as motor oil (especially used) will contain all sorts of additives that you don't really want to be handling or inhaling. I've found that a mixture of linseed oil and paraffin wax works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to allow the piece to rust and then treat it with a rust converter such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fertan.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fertan&lt;/a&gt;, these are generally phosphoric and/or tannic acid based and will turn the rust a deep blue/black which can then be sealed with wax, oil etc &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2018-01-09T02:02:03.117" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T02:02:03.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2821" CreationDate="2017-03-11T18:42:48.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the risk of answering a nearly closed question and related to your willingness to consider creating your own, it would appear that casting is going to be the only practical solution available, unless you have a tremendous budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick search using The Google for the terms &quot;18 inch acrylic cylinder&quot; and found a number of suppliers. You'd have to do the math for length vs. volume vs. diameter to know the exact or approximate size. One of the vendors lists 0.250 inch wall, 20 inch diameter, US$583.98 per linear foot! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the casting side, which does fall into the crafts aspect, you might consider to purchase a five gallon bucket and use that as the beginning of a mold. If you did not require exactly five gallons, you would pour the casting acrylic liquid into the bottom of the bucket. When the bottom inch has cured, construct an inner mold sleeve, sealing it well to the bottom and fill the outer ring with casting acrylic liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go that route, use caution regarding the volume of acrylic you pour, as it can generate enough heat to melt the plastic bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively and much more expensive is to create a silicone mold to then use to pour the acrylic. You can find silicone mold products which can handle temperatures high enough to cast metal, certainly capable of handing the heat from acrylic reactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a project of some labor, some experimentation and possibly some undesirable results, typically called learning, but is probably going to be less expensive than buying six hundred dollars a foot plastic tube and still having to seal the ends!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a bit more research and discovered that a five gallon cylinder will be 12 inches tall and 11 inches inside diameter. Those numbers confuse me, as a five gallon Home Depot bucket is larger than a foot across and a foot tall. One gallon is 231 cubic inches. Five gallons is 1155 cubic inches. Again with The Google, the formula says 11 inches diameter by 12 inches tall is 1140 cubic inches. That's close enough. Maybe the five gallon buckets are more than five gallons or maybe I'm calling them that and they aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, 12 inch inside diameter, quarter inch wall tubing from San Diego Plastics (the reference I used) is &quot;only&quot; $182.74, far less than the previous figure. Shipping might not be too bad for a foot-square box either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shucks, I preferred the casting method for the learning experience, but it isn't going to be cheaper than the retail purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T18:42:48.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-11T19:39:05.670" Score="6" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased some wall art and I'd like to darken it with a tea stain or synthetic stain but the canvas has a plastic coating. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T21:16:01.393" Title="Distressing purchased wall art" Tags="|medium-selection|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2825" CreationDate="2017-03-11T20:25:35.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it has a frame with glass, or you're not against putting it in such a frame, you may paint a layer of glass paint on the glass, instead of working directly on the canvas.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you ever regret your decision and you want the original art back, no harm is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T20:25:35.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2825" CreationDate="2017-03-11T21:16:01.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's a plastic surface mediums made for use with acrylic paints might be your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are varnishes and glazing mediums specifically made for acrylic painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both mediums start out clear. By tinting the mediums you will have control over the hue and value of the covering layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company Golden caries a line if varnish and glazing medium formulated for acrylic paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example Polymer Varnish&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goldenpaints.com/technicalinfo_polvar&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.goldenpaints.com/technicalinfo_polvar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example Glazing Liquid&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.goldenpaints.com/technicalinfo_glazeliq&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.goldenpaints.com/technicalinfo_glazeliq&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The varnish is removable. The glazing medium is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever method you choose to pursue I would do a test coat in a small area before trying to cover the whole canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or combine this with Ji Ugug idea and apply the medium to the glass (or plexiglass) cover and you won't have to worry about harming your canvas at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2017-03-11T21:16:01.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-13T07:39:34.427" Score="4" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to glue round glass (20 mm) inside a round hole in polycarbonate (tight fit). Only the glass edge (1 mm thick) and polycarbonate edge (1.5 mm) are surfaces that will hold the glue bond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following glue properties are required:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strong elastic bond&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue has to be clear (if possible)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Salt water waterproof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easily removable from glass OR if carefully applied doesn't spill on glass &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1750" LastEditorUserId="1482" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T13:51:13.477" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T14:33:28.287" Title="What glue can I use for glass and polycarbonate bonding?" Tags="|adhesives|medium-selection|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-14T00:43:26.930" Score="5" ViewCount="5533" Body="&lt;p&gt;A craft I'm interested in is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.figurerealm.com/customtutorial&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;action figure customization&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, you can utilize new or old action figures and you take them apart and combine/mix-and-match them while also adding custom sculpts, paint, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem I have with some of the joints I'm working with is that they simply won't &lt;em&gt;move&lt;/em&gt;. Due to time on the shelf, and often paint application between the joints, they get so stiff that the force it takes to &quot;break&quot; the seal actually breaks the joint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a hot water trick, where you can run the figure under hot running water or dip it in a bowl of hot water, but this process also softens the plastic which can lead to bending and stretching in ways that can be permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried adding lubricant, such as mineral oil, to the joints, but some times it's so hard to swivel the joint to even get the lubricant into the space that I'm worried that process will break it just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer a permanent fix. Most of the frozen joints will end up re-used as-is (for instance, a frozen elbow, but the entire arm is being transferred to a new figure), so a solution to initially free up the joint and then steps necessary to keep it free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T21:42:08.770" Title="How can I loosen the joints on my action figures without breaking them?" Tags="|abs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2829" CreationDate="2017-03-14T01:17:32.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD-40 and similar oils contain solvents, which would most likely strip the paint off your model.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;dry&quot; bike-chain oil will do well to reduce friction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the teflon particles are dispersed in a solvent, so it's hard to say how it might effect the paint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go this route, use a toothpick to apply to the inside of the knuckles, for precision without dripping all over the rest of your model.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A light sewing-machine oil should also be suitable. &#xA;They tend to penetrate well without any added solvents.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think a toothpick would be safer than an x-acto knife because the toothpick would &quot;give&quot; if you apply too much pressure, smooshing down before your plastic does.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not strong enough, you can go the X-acto route, or craft pick; a compass point might do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main thought was that the toothpick would hold a drop of oil well, &#xA;like a candlewick does, plus it's fine enough to get inside.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could cut the cotton off a Q-tip at an angle and wedge some oil in there that way if you like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, being softer than the plastic, it should bend before damage is done to your model.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't expect it to crack instantly. Just keep wiggling the oil in there for a while 'till it gives.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right about the hot water trick. If kept low it should be OK. Like 100°F. You know, baby-water warm.  Hot, not scalding.  If you need it in there for a long period of time, maybe set a pot of water on one of those coffee/candle-warmer pads.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put model in a freezer-bag and do it sous-vide style, so it doesn't get completely soaked.  Put something heavy in the bottom of the bag so it doesn't float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1753" LastEditorUserId="1753" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T21:42:08.770" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T21:42:08.770" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2828" CreationDate="2017-03-14T02:06:49.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually like a 50/50 mix of Gorilla super glue gel, &#xA;and Loctite Super Glue Professional Liquid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gel is a little thick, and the other is runny. Mix the two, and you get a great syrupy consistency that would be perfect for what you are trying to accomplish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drip a bit of both on a scrap piece of cardboard, then brush it on your surface with a toothpick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your glue doesn't soak through your cardboard, because you don't want it to stick to the table. You could use a plastic-lid from a throwaway container instead.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1753" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T10:58:28.707" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T10:58:28.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-14T07:50:05.890" Score="3" ViewCount="1300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make some kind of lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to dye (or buy) a piece of white glass or plastic (whatever works best). However, I still want to be able to see through it - I guess about 80% white and 20% transparent. I only need to see through from one side, so a mesh would probably be a good idea, although it is not the preferred solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One side should be dark, the other bright most of the times, and the white side (as perceived from the bright side) should be perceived as white even if the &quot;outer&quot; person is very close to the glass.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The &quot;see-through&quot; from the inner site doesn't have to be as perfect as a two-way mirror. It's okay if the person has to get really close (like the distance of sunglasses), but pinhole glasses won't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;frosted&quot; look probably would let enough light through but is not see-through.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are some electric &quot;foils&quot; that can be put on windows, to change it from clear to opaque (by percentage), but I don't think that this is the thing I'm looking for, because I don't need to change the opacity, and they would make the effect reliant on electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dye could also be the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How could I solve this problem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the airbrushed part of the visor on Robocop by Legacy Effects: could this be a possibility? How would I do this so it remains a little bit transparent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T20:17:11.183" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T20:17:11.183" Title="Creating one-way mirror-like lenses" Tags="|glass|acrylic-glass|dye|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2017-03-14T09:19:22.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you put clear tape on frosted glass it becomes see-through. &#xA;You could try that if it's meant to be a momentary peek-though situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rBIb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rBIb.png&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot showing clear tape on frosted glass&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could mostly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.psiloveyouscrapbooking.com/candle-holders-using-adirondack-alcohol-ink-by-tim-holtz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;frost it with white alcohol ink&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;Just leaving enough of an open lattice to achieve a veiled appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd think a decent way to accomplish that would be to &#xA;put on some gloves, wad up a small piece of fabric, &#xA;wet it with the alcohol ink, then dab it on the glass. &#xA;Practice on a scrap piece of clear plastic &#xA;a few times to get the technique down, &#xA;like from a 2-liter bottle that you cut apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember hearing about see-through concrete that had similar properties: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zdnet.com/article/concrete-you-can-see-through&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to article&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1753" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T17:12:33.680" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T17:12:33.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2835" CreationDate="2017-03-14T16:42:40.257" Score="5" ViewCount="6926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make custom, food-grade silicone beads that have a hole down the center for stringing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I google molding silicone or any variation on that, all the results are to make silicone molds! Not for making silicone products or jewelry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any tutorials out there they can point me too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-05-14T19:21:00.367" LastActivityDate="2018-05-14T19:21:00.367" Title="How to cast silicone beads?" Tags="|jewelry|food-safe|mold-making|beads|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2021-03-22T08:52:01.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2834" CreationDate="2017-03-14T17:23:13.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your objective is to create a silicone product, take a different viewpoint of your research thus far. Silicone molds work because silicone sticks to almost nothing other than silicone. If you create a mold using silicone as the foundation, pouring food materials inside means you get food materials out, without sticking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your beads, consider that you want a non-silicone mold. The hole in the center makes things a bit trickier, but not by much. You'd have to make a two-part mold and ensure that you get proper venting when placing the sprue for filling. Alternatively, if you don't mind a seam in the finished product, you can make two molds that can be filled independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't state the diameter of the beads, and I'll adjust this suggestion to focus on small sized beads, as the project gets easier with increased size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One will presume that you have ordinary beads of the size you wish to duplicate. The typical method of creating a non-silicone mold requires that the item be coated with a mold-release substance. Tiny beads are likely to be very challenging in that respect and you cannot expect one hundred percent perfection, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A somewhat step-by-step method would be as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a modeling clay base, leveled as carefully as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Embed the beads in the base to the half-way point, ensuring that the orientation of the through-hole is vertical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Embed also in the base at various locations across the bed alignment points. These points can be clay-formed bumps, pyramids, cones, something tapered for easy release. Tapered depressions will also serve well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coat the beads and the clay surface with mold-release.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Encase the clay bed within an appropriate box-like structure to create a pouring frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a desired resin and fill to cover the beads and alignment points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When cured, remove the clay bed but leave in place or clean and replace the beads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean and apply mold release to the cured mold and the beads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a new pouring frame around the cured mold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour the second half of the mold, allow to cure as before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the mold are split and cleaned, any silicone compound applied will form the beads. Without cutting a sprue or vent, you can fill one mold flush with silicone, allow it to cure. Do not touch the cured surface. Fill the other half of the mold with silicone and place the first half in place atop it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The uncured silicone will bond with the previous pour and create the beads. Depending on the amount of silicone used, there may be thicker seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe small beads can be created using molds involving a sprue and vent. Because the spherical shape of a bead requires a two part mold to release the bead, it is more practical to consider the seam-style creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tricky part will involve ensuring the clay bed fills the bead opening when pressing them in place in the earlier steps. Cleaning the clay from those openings when creating the second mold is equally important. Any points of failure in those items will create a bead without a pass-through hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T20:56:03.327" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T20:56:03.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2834" CreationDate="2017-03-14T22:31:45.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the basic idea of what &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/users/1562/fred-dot-u&quot;&gt;fred-dot-u&lt;/a&gt; mentioned, &#xA;but I'd tweak the method a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your beads on a wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut apart an old coat-hanger with snips and use that. &#xA;This would give you a sprue through all the beads at once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the wire is the same length as the Tupperware that you're gonna use. &#xA;This way your sprue goes all the way through.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use clay as a base. &#xA;I just see that as being too hard to capture detail on such a small item. &#xA;You would get gaps, end up with flash on your beads when you cast 'em.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone is likely to stick, even with release. &#xA;Plus it's brittle, and repeated use may break it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look at an &lt;em&gt;acrylic water kit.&lt;/em&gt; It's a 2 part acrylic cast, &#xA;usually found in the floral arrangement department.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coat your beads-on-a-wire with Vaseline, &#xA;and the inside of your Tupperware dish as well.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fill half a Tupperware with that, drop your beads in. Let it set.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coat the acrylic that's now set with Vaseline, &#xA;top off the Tupperware with a new batch of acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that sets, crack it apart at the jelly line. &#xA;You may have to carve out the ends where the sprue opens up. &#xA;Bevel the opening to make a funnel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that's done, you'd simply spritz your acrylic mold with cooking spray, &#xA;then squirt your silicone inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine filling gaps with a caulking gun, &#xA;but use a marinade injector instead.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The added benefit of using a clear acrylic mold is: &#xA;you can see if you've filled the mold entirely, &#xA;so your beads always turn out decent while casting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1753" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-05-14T23:15:38.180" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T23:15:38.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2839" CreationDate="2017-03-15T00:52:41.550" Score="6" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make beads out of polymer clay. Is it a better idea to form the holes before baking, or drill them after? (I'm concerned about weird shrinkage or other effects around the hole during baking, affecting the size.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T00:55:34.223" Title="Should the hole in polymer clay beads be made before or after baking?" Tags="|polymer-clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2838" CreationDate="2017-03-15T00:55:34.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much simpler if you do it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will always deal with some shrinkage with polymer clay, so just make sure that the hole is a bit larger than you will need it.  If you are really worried, try a couple of samples and measure how much they will shrink.  But it is fairly minimal, so unless you need an exact fit, it is nothing that major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T00:55:34.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2751" CreationDate="2017-03-15T03:40:31.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Rich&quot; usually just means &quot;a lot of&quot;.&#xA;You have to gather from the context what it's describing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A rich cake has a lot of sugar and/or butter.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A rich person has a lot of money.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure while reading a text about color,&#xA;people would gather that you are talking about a lot of color.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't think they'd recognize the connection with value though,&#xA;unless you made a point to specify it in the text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1753" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T20:44:35.537" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T20:44:35.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2017-03-15T17:13:51.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen the book you mentioned, but it seems to me that maximizing the amount of material in the cuff would maximize how many times you could make repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the pants are bought with deliberately too long legs, roll the fabric into the leg space to create an extremely tall invisible cuff.  Pin that cuff in place at a more normal 1/2&quot; to 3/4&quot; height.  This should create the first (most interior) hem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now fold the excess fabric from just above the pins and pull it down so that it once again extends out the bottom of the leg opening.  Darn the top of the interior cuff in multiple places to keep your toes from catching it when putting on the pants in the future.  Recover your pins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, fold the downward pointing excess fabric (outward this time) to wrap up over the first hem and cover it with another layer of cloth.  This will form an exterior cuff which may still be taller than normal, but will be shorter than the previous interior cuff, because some to the fabric is now trapped inside the pant leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have a enough excess height to reach the leg opening again, pin and darn the new cuff at the normal height, then fold the remaining excess fabric outward and roll it downward and then back into the leg opening.  This will form a second interior cuff which you will again need to pin and darn carefully to avoid snagging toes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have enough excess height to create a second interior cuff, fold what excess height you have, inward so that it tucks into the newly created exterior cuff.  Pin and darn the top of the exterior cuff at a few points to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a rough diagram of what I am talking about...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MwFk2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MwFk2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Folds for Multiple sided Cuff&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T21:05:41.067" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T21:05:41.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2017-03-15T20:23:14.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use many erasers for drawing. I actually draw with erasers by taking off areas and texturing. So there are many uses for erasers in drawing. If you draw with only a pencil and include mistakes then that is your version or style of drawing but it is not the true and only way you should draw. The pen eraser is valuable to me because I can cut a clean edge on the tip and erase fine lines to create textures such as weave in cloth. It just depends on your style of drawing. There is no right way or wrong way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1773" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T20:29:51.520" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T20:29:51.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5312" CreationDate="2017-03-16T01:02:33.023" Score="7" ViewCount="2962" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son was making a birdhouse. He asked if he could use the rubber cement (Elmer's), and I said it was okay. I didn't know he was going to use our dining room table as his workspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything appeared fine until I lifted a piece of paper the next morning and a puddle of rubber cement had fully dried in a flat, clear sheet about 5 inches in diameter with the thickness of about 4 sheets of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table: hardwood, sanded, stained, dark finish. I polish every week or two with Old English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a safe way to remove the rubber cement without hurting the table?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1776" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T01:47:58.327" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T16:42:12.310" Title="Oops! Rubber cement on wood cleanup?" Tags="|adhesives|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2846" CreationDate="2017-03-16T06:27:13.163" Score="5" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandala&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandala&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not able to keep the proportion and the distance as desired if I simply pick up the pencil and start drawing the actual design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to draw duplicate items in perfect proportions and equidistant from each other in Mandala drawings as shown in the examples below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to draw by hand not through the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ld0x1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ld0x1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BefcX.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BefcX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T14:35:03.140" Title="How to draw duplicate items in perfect proportions and equidistant from each other in Mandala drawings?" Tags="|drawing|mandala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2844" CreationDate="2017-03-16T20:06:09.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to start with a sketch frame and fill it in from there. You're not going to be able to freehand draw it (without a ton of practice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with a circle, decide how many radials you want (in your last example there are 16) and then sketch them in using a protractor to get them even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start with two perpendicular lines, then do the 45 degree lines (that makes 8) and then split those in half every 22.5 degrees... that gets you the 16. Keep splitting them further in half if you want the sections smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with 16, you'll have something like this (you could probably actually just use this image and trace it or work on a light table):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cYSpNm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cYSpNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Circle divided evenly into 16 sections through the center&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, sketch in a ring everywhere you want a main point to be, say every inch (~2.5 cm). There's no need for them to be equally spaced, though. You can always start with a smaller design 4-6 inch diameter and then add to it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JjaXtm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JjaXtm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Circle with uneven concentric rings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the frame, fill in one of the wedges (or two/three if you want the full mirror effect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the wedge is done, mirror it for the wedge next door. Use the rings to keep the placement. At this point, it's just the matter of filling everything in properly. If you do it correctly, you should have a perfect mandala at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's going to end up being similar to the process of duplicating a photograph or drawing using a grid pattern and filling in the grid rather than trying to draw it from scratch. Here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16uZK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16uZK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Recreating a photo by the grid method&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-03-17T14:35:03.140" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T14:35:03.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2848" CreationDate="2017-03-18T01:44:57.797" Score="10" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to do some homemade &lt;strong&gt;white&lt;/strong&gt; milk paint. I followed the instructions given by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Milk-Paint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;. I may have been very naive but I thought to myself that since I only needed a &lt;em&gt;&quot;whitewash&quot;&lt;/em&gt; version of milk paint, then I did not need to add pigment to the recipe. Therefore I only used hydrated lime. The obtained &quot;paint&quot; definitely looks like in the tutorial (white version). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I applied it on the surface of some clean pine plywood, instead of successfully painting it white, the wood took some strange dark tone (see picture). Now, the thing is that the surface definitely looks like it was painted, not white though. So the idea seems to at least, well, work somehow... &lt;strong&gt;Is a pigment really necessary to obtain white milk paint?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, which one would work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7EZN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7EZN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1796" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T16:08:38.900" Title="Is pigment necessary to obtain white milk paint?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2847" CreationDate="2017-03-18T14:10:26.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, pigment is necessary. The milk solution creates the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;binder&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for the pigment, which is basically the mechanism to deliver the pigment to the support/surface, but it is then intended to mostly evaporate during the drying phase, leaving the pigment behind. What you're seeing now is, basically, an almost transparent darkening of the wood surface which is the remnants of the binder material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to find dry pigment online. You're looking for, in this case, &lt;em&gt;titanium white&lt;/em&gt; which is PW6 and it's generally available. I'm not going to give free advertising, but if you Google &quot;titanium white dry pigment&quot; then you'll find sources very quickly. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2017-03-18T14:10:26.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-18T09:09:50.923" Score="6" ViewCount="1333" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uCWyx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand plaster mold&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My daughter in law gave me two handprints of my twin grandangels. I would like to cut out their faces from a small picture and apply them on ornament.&#xA;Can I do that with Mod Podge? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jeanie Cook" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T02:27:23.970" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T15:37:50.690" Title="Can you take a regular photo and Mod Podge it to Plaster?" Tags="|adhesives|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2857" CreationDate="2017-03-18T21:56:55.550" Score="6" ViewCount="6370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on designing a set for a stop motion animation, and I'd like to have a wall that looks like peeling paint— something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7b/Peeling_paint_1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I would be able to have a plywood board painted one color, which is peeling to reveal another color of paint underneath.  What paints and techniques should I use to make this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="955" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T19:07:58.323" Title="How can I make a peeling paint effect?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2850" CreationDate="2017-03-18T23:16:41.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;that's a tough objective, considering how much work is put into preventing just that problem. One big aspect of such an objective is that time is a portion of the &quot;feature&quot; you seek. One may expect you wish to not wait for weeks to get the peeling paint effect. Alternatively, one could find an old building that meets your visual requirement and offer to purchase a wall panel! Color matching may not be all that easy in this last suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heading toward a solution, I did a quick search using &quot;what causes peeling paint&quot; and found many answers. Many were unsuited to your goal, but one of the links provided a series of causes and possible solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one I like is located here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/ask-sherwin-williams/problem-solver/peeling-cracking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peeling Paint and the Possible Causes&lt;/a&gt; and could be considered a recipe book for how to cause it, as each problem is described in reasonable detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that if you attempt to create your own &quot;model wall,&quot; to accelerate the process with heat and moisture. Enclosing your sample board in a greenhouse would be especially helpful. Lacking a greenhouse, an inverted aquarium or even a plastic storage bin may give you results you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the two color effect, a poorly done initial coat of one color allowed to dry, then painted with the top color and subjected to extreme conditions might also enhance the results. Using excessively thick layers would give excessive shrinkage to help with the poor adhesion to the lower coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for instructions on paint sites regarding proper preparation and do the opposite! Clean and dry? Dirty and damp!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-03-18T23:16:41.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2853" CreationDate="2017-03-18T23:46:11.883" Score="6" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a watercolour that was mounted to a piece of mat board by the artist (over 40 years ago) which needs its framing renewed. After pulling the backing off, I find the mat board is badly warped (part of the reason it needs renewal it turns out.) The mat in front (separating the work from the glass) seems to follow the backer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try to flatten the mounts or just make sure all is secure in the frame? (Or take it to a pro?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1797" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T00:44:56.130" Title="How would I flatten a watercolour mounted on mat board?" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2852" CreationDate="2017-03-19T00:44:56.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, first, I would probably take it to a professional restoration if there was no way I was willing to risk the painting. Likely to be expensive, though, but the safest approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try to flatten the support, you could try slowly wetting the back of matboard with sponged water, don't soak it, wet it, and then flatten under heavy pressure (carefully, you don't want to damage the painting) for a couple of days. This may bring the matboard back into shape, but it's a bit of a long shot really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to be honest, though, if the work was one that I wanted to preserve, I'd be looking to a pro to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T00:44:56.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2514" CreationDate="2017-03-19T05:04:00.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, I sew with good quality polyester thread, e.g., Gutermann, it doesn't create a lot of &quot;dust&quot; from fiber breaking off the thread, and the colors are relatively &quot;duller&quot; (more like natural fibers) than cheaper polyester thread that can be shiney.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I were a quilter, I'd use cotton thread because of the similar hand (feel, touch) and visual aesthetics of the cotton fabric and cotton thread.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A caution with cotton thread especially, is it can become brittle and break easily with age.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So if the thread in your wardrobe repair kit is cotton, do the strength test suggested by the previous answerer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For special fabrics, like silk (which can also become brittle and degrade easily with age), I recommend using thread that is most like the fiber content of the fabric you want to repair, in this case, silk thread for sewing on silk fabric.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For delicate fabrics like silk, a strong cotton or polyester thread will be stronger than the silk fabric and can actually pull and tear the fabric (instead of the seam splitting), when the fabric is stretched or twisted in wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are repairing silk pajamas that you clearly love and want to preserve, only you can decide if you want to spend the money on silk thread, or a good quality polyester thread.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you do a lot of sewing, the price of good thread can be a consideration, but if you plan to buy only one small spool of thread, it will a very small extra expense, and you can take the item you want to repair with you when you shop for thread and get the color that goes the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-03-19T21:41:32.240" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T21:41:32.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2289" CreationDate="2017-03-19T05:23:07.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what the underneath material of the chair bottom is, wood? metal? fiber board? The idea of using a stretchy knit and pulling it tightly over the chair bottom either with elastic or a drawstring in a casing, is good because you will have the best chance of a smooth surface.  But for longevity, you might conside buying a piece of faux leather (easily obtained in any fabric store or online), and smoothing it over the top of the chair bottom, turning the chair over and pulling the fabric as tightly and as smoothly as possible to the underside of the chair and either tacking it or stapling it if the chair bottom is not metal.  Duct tape is an option if the bottom is metal, and it wouldn't be a big deal to retape as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user1798" LastEditDate="2017-03-22T05:32:52.073" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T05:32:52.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1884" CreationDate="2017-03-19T05:36:47.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest looking at the lining fabrics in a fabric store.  These fabrics are usually in a section all together, and grouped by color.  They are most often 100% polyester which is very strong, and for this purpose, light-weight (lining fabrics are an extra layer of fabric inside a clothing item, like a dress or a suit, to add strength or protect from stretching or to prevent see-through).  Lining fabrics come in a broad range of colors from pastels to vivid brights. They are woven fabrics (vs. knits) so they don't stretch.  They are usually very colorfast, and dry quickly if they get wet.  They may be thinner than what you are looking for, but they will flap nicely in a breeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T05:36:47.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2850" CreationDate="2017-03-20T02:25:57.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basics of this can be pretty easy if you want it to be. Getting the exact desired effect, much like anything in crafting, will take some experimentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In its simplest form put down you base paint i.e. the colour you want to see below the peeling, distress and etc. Then put down something to help prevent the next layer of paint from binding. White glue works well for this. You would not necessarily use glue on your entire surface but where you want the cracking / peeling to occur. In your case you can try and target it along a line to simulate broken wall or foundation or something. How long you let the glue dry before you put on the next layer of paint is subjective. Most seem to wait until it is tacky to the touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you would put on your top layer of paint. The choice of paint should not matter here to much either. A milk paint lends easier to distressing or chipping. You see milk paint used a lot in &quot;antiquing&quot; furniture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that paint is dry it should have cracked on its own while drying. If that is not to your satisfaction you could use some tools to help it along. Utility knives, putty knives would be obvious tools of choice. Again, you would need to experiment to get your desired effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the above or possibly in conjunction I have also seen people accelerate the drying process with something like a heat gun / hair dryer. This will definitely help the peeling process via bubbling. Take caution as to not burn or melt the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T18:20:47.083" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T18:20:47.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2233" CreationDate="2017-03-20T17:34:38.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All good ideas in Ji Ugug's answer, but I always start with the &quot;if all else fails&quot; idea:  If I have a garment I want to replicate, I sit down at the pattern books and find an item with the most important elements I want to replicate, e.g., a square neckline and a fitted bodice (including darts), or sleeveless dress with a vee neck, etc. Then I modify the paper pattern as needed.  This way I can be pretty sure the sizing (and dart placement) will be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T17:34:38.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1848" CreationDate="2017-03-20T18:52:58.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never tried this, but another approach that hasn't been mentioned would be to make a plaster cast. You could make a latex mold (as described here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://m.wikihow.com/Make-a-Latex-Mold&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://m.wikihow.com/Make-a-Latex-Mold&lt;/a&gt;) and then use the mold to create a plaster replica of the original carving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T18:52:58.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2017-03-21T03:23:25.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the good answers by other responders, I want to add that with a short stitch, you also increase the possibility of puckering, sometimes a longer stitch gives a much smoother appearance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the stitch length is very short, yes, you can achieve some seam strength, but if the fabric is light-weight and/or has some stretch and the seam has none (short stitch length used), the fabric can tear away from the seam, or the thread in the seam can even break if pulled hard enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are so many variables with the fabric you are using, its weight, density, stretchiness, etc., that it's always good practice to do a quick test on a small piece of your fabric (including linings and interfacings if used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most newer machines have very good User's Guides with a lot of useful information, including tables showing best stitch lengths for different types of fabrics, best needle size, what foot to use to achieve a certain stitch, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T03:23:25.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2864" CreationDate="2017-03-21T06:01:52.170" Score="4" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.in/Brustro-Watercolour-Papers-Pack-Sheets/dp/B01GCTAI3G/ref=pd_cp_229_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=189Z7J81YG0QFSEP23BX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These seem to be toothed&lt;/a&gt; as well as they have a great GSM.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it has been mentioned there that they are for water colors. Since toothed paper is required for holding pencil colors, will these be suitable for pencil colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-03-21T22:21:21.263" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T22:21:21.263" Title="Should 300 GSM toothed water color paper be used for pencil colors?" Tags="|paper|medium-selection|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2863" CreationDate="2017-03-21T10:57:00.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of color pencil artists use watercolor paper for their work because solvent blending is less likely to damage the paper from any moisture that may be added and the paper can take a lot of abuse since it is so sturdy. However, most of the ones I follow use hot press rather than cold press or rough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's true that you want tooth, but cold press or rough has a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of tooth and it can be really tricky to get color into the valleys of the surface. This may lead to needing a lot more pressure to fill and wear harder on your pencils, requiring more frequent sharpening to maintain a sufficiently sharp point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, not all papers are the same, so if you have some and want to try it, you may appreciate the look you get and prefer it. In the end, there is nothing that says you can't!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T10:57:00.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2943" CreationDate="2017-03-21T22:37:16.703" Score="3" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired some leather that seems to have been made to be in vehicle interior. I want to use it to bind books with some tooling done to it. This leather seems to be thin compared to the hide that is normally used to bind books. This makes me think that a substrate is needed to allow the leather to be tooled. What sort of material works best? I was thinking of using compressed paper Machee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the leather for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IcnY9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IcnY9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="904" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T00:34:53.330" Title="Using leather to bind books with substrate" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-22T00:24:33.087" Score="6" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making butted maille out if 1.6mm stainless steel wire. Cutting the rings myself. This stuff is strong and heavy! It looks and feels great! The wire is a little pricey at 11quid per 30ms. I was still curious to hear what other materials people were using. What other gauges of wire ect. I've heard that weaker steel can stretch at the crown or on the shoulders and I'd like to avoid that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1815" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2017-10-12T20:43:26.970" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T20:43:26.970" Title="What wire other than 1.6 mm stainless will work for chain mail?" Tags="|clothing|metalworking|chain-mail|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2866" CreationDate="2017-03-22T13:45:55.923" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a butted link hauberk some years ago out of galvanized steel wire (the stuff I got was used in repairing fences - 20 gauge).  Not as shiny as other materials but I felt it was more authentic looking.  It is fairly easy to form and cut.  The mandrel I used to form the links was 3/8&quot; diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When completed there were some 40,000 links in it and it weighs around 40 pounds.  I wore it over a gambeson I also made.  The hauberk comes to about the groin (worn with a belt to adjust the weight somewhat) and to a few inches above  the elbow (I'm 5'10&quot;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wore it numerous times to SCA type events and reenactments but never did much mock combat with it.  I never had an issue with links stretching or popping out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5fGY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5fGY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1741" LastEditorUserId="1741" LastEditDate="2017-04-04T11:38:22.003" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T11:38:22.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2872" CreationDate="2017-03-22T16:53:26.727" Score="3" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLMOs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLMOs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see it clearly if you zoom on the torn sleeve.&#xA;It doesn't look like gabardine or corduroy to me, so I'm a bit confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The screenshot is from 2015's TomorrowLand, in case that helps.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T19:05:18.330" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T19:06:49.910" Title="What material is this jacket made of?" Tags="|clothing|material-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2868" CreationDate="2017-03-22T21:02:11.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jacket appears to have at least two different types of woven fabric.&#xA;The lower lighter khaki color looks like a twill fabric that has a dot overprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper dark brown fabric over the shoulders looks like a rib.&#xA;There may be a hoody underneath, either separate or as part of the jacket. In that case, the hoody fabric will likely be a Jersey knit construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to tell from the photo what the fiber contents of the separate fabrics are, i.e., are the fabrics cotton, wool, polyester, a blend?  That would require testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested either in patching the torn sleeve or replicating the jacket, you will have the best chance of getting close to a match (I doubt very much you'll be able to get an exact match), by taking the jacket to a fabric store and looking for something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to describe the jacket for a print ad (for example), this assessment of the fabric construction will be as close as I can get without actually seeing the jacket, but you will also need to tell readers what the fiber content is.  Big differences between the fiber content possibilities as far as look, feel, and care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T21:02:11.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2849" CreationDate="2017-03-23T13:06:26.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start by asking are you 100% sure it's plaster? I kind of looks like paper clay to me, but that could be the effect of the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If it is plaster:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plaster likes to absorb all the water it can - from what I remember Modge Podge is rather watery in comparison to other glues. But I believe it can be used on plaster as it is basically a type of PVA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll stick to the plaster, but will sit on top of the surface like a varnish. Moisture will be absorbed into the plaster, the plastic part of the glue will remain on top. Make sure your photo isn't going to bleed when it gets damp (Do NOT use inkjet photos). Those colors will likely sink into the plaster if they run and your photo will be ruined. If you want to protect the whole piece from absorbing finger grease and various other stains that tend to make their way to ornaments despite it being kept in a clean place - you could coat the plaster in it entirely using it as a sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just double checked the MP website. They say before using it on plaster, wipe plaster down with a damp cloth - likely to remove any dust - I wouldn't go too damp however. If you saturate your piece too much it might become delicate depending on plaster type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-03-23T15:37:50.690" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T15:37:50.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2868" CreationDate="2017-03-23T14:48:40.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.therpf.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The RPF&lt;/a&gt; is a fandom forum for people who craft costumes and props from movies. They usually know where to purchase street clothes used in movies but even they have not been able to identify the manufacturer of this jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ul8D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ul8D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at several pictures (especially the right shoulder in this picture) I'd say it is a light denim. Abbie is correct when she says it looks ribbed. The dotted fabric could be twill but, in this picture it looks ribbed as well, my guess is they are both a light weight denim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fray on the sleeve is consistent with frayed denim and to get elastic stitched into the hem, the denim would have to be light weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have never identified the material in Alexey's picture as denim. It looks so much more like a satin or nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUrWr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUrWr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture shows that the jacket has a black and khaki lining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NU5f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NU5f.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This close up would leave me to believe that the aqua hoodie is sleeveless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1670" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T19:06:49.910" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T19:06:49.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-24T01:37:14.683" Score="7" ViewCount="3305" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking for images of nutshells in order to make a &lt;s&gt;witty&lt;/s&gt; snarky reply to CreationEdge♦ in chat, I came across some wonderful pictures of pistachio-shell decorations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/exfStm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/exfStm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Decorations made from pistachio shells&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How inspiring and beautiful these things are! Next time I eat pistachios, I might keep the shells and try to make some decorations out of them. But I've never tried gluing nutshells together before ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How can I make pistachio shells stick together to form decorations?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-03-24T22:50:11.187" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T11:42:58.577" Title="How to make pistachio shells stick together for decorations?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2874" CreationDate="2017-03-24T18:27:51.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, the answer is your old friend the hot glue gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any time you need to glue things that are of odd shapes to get them to stick onto other things that are odd shapes you need a glue that takes up space and bonds well (well, I guess &quot;bonds well&quot; is up for debate but... I don't know you'd be expecting these things to be something you can pass down through the generations)... that pretty much means hot glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is supported in a tutorial &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtoinstructions.org/how-to-make-beautiful-flowers-with-pistachio-shells-step-by-step-diy-tutorial-picture-instructions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theekissoflife.com/2013/09/diy-easy-upcycling-pistachio-crafts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which walk you through the entire process. Also, a YouTube video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCvAOGiKcQY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-03-24T18:31:57.020" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T18:31:57.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2725" CreationDate="2017-03-25T00:25:21.873" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably a band saw with a thin blade that isn't 'teeth based' kind of like a knife. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1727" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T00:25:21.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2725" CreationDate="2017-03-25T10:59:09.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For just about any shape of cut-out, one could use a router bit in a router, but they are typically quite heavy and more powerful than you need for cardboard. More appropriate would be a tool commonly called a Dremel tool. These are rotary multi-feature tools for which one can purchase different attachments and cutting bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjXcW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjXcW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rotary tool and accessories&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A router head for such a tool is going to be smaller than a full size router. Cutting bits are typically around the 1/8&quot;/3 mm size. There are larger diameters but not as much variety as with a full size router.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRfKJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRfKJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rotary tool router base&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools are often variable speed and some are cordless, offering even more flexibility for use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cutting straight lines, one would want to have a guiding device such as a flat board clamped or taped to the cutting surface. For curves and holes, it's going to be mostly eyeball guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are cutting only straight lines, there is available what amounts to a small scale hand-held circular saw, but that loses the ability to change kerf sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H2pdZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H2pdZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;small saw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one shown is again by Dremel, but other manufacturers have similar products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last on the list would be an oscillating cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOBmv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOBmv.png&quot; alt=&quot;oscillating cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many manufacturers, corded and cordless, with multiple tool selections. No kerf adjustment, generally speaking, more easily controlled than a circular cutter but slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not suggest a hobby level CNC cutter as they are expensive and limited to the bed size, which limits your work piece size as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T10:59:09.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2901" CreationDate="2017-03-26T03:06:41.590" Score="9" ViewCount="1924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to create a stencil for the attached image that I edited in Photoshop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K93TO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K93TO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend is a big fan of Bowie's work and her birthday is coming up. My plan is to spray paint the image onto a 3'x'2' piece of MDF board. I am looking for the cheapest way to do this. I am open to all suggestions, including making stencils by hand, or purchasing a machine that will cut the stencils for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1829" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T02:09:00.750" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T02:17:20.827" Title="What is the best way to create a stencil for a large spray paint image?" Tags="|tool-selection|painting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2888" CreationDate="2017-03-26T03:07:15.090" Score="5" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a skirt, and I'd like to attach an applique of a thin satiny fabric to the thicker base fabric. It's going to be in the shape of a city skyline, with the satiny stuff as the buildings. It's a circle skirt, like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWUmq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWUmq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Gotham city skyline skirt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;except the buildings will go all the way around. I'm going to use a bias tape for the bottom hem of the skirt, and I have the waist all figured out too. but I don't know how to attach the top, cut-out edge of the black satin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't be able to take much heat from ironing, and will probably need to be hemmed to keep fraying apart. If I try to glue it on, the glue will probably show through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original plan was to cut the black as one big round and jagged piece, fold over a hem along the top and sew it on with a sewing machine. I'm abandoning this idea due to not having really used a sewing machine in years and because of all the turning and narrow bits and detail required. The project is also too big to be able to keep flat and even in a sewing machine. Furthermore, I'm not sure if I can make a crisp hem with limited ability to iron the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative ideas have been some kind of iron-on stuff to stick them together, or some kind of spray-on sticky stuff, but I don't have any experience with that kind of thing, so I don't know what to choose. Plus, they may require heats greater than what this fabric can stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique that would probably look best would be to hand sew the entire thing with a small blanket stitch, but that'd be a LOT of sewing- and I only have 2 weeks to finish it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a last case idea was to abandon the satin altogether and use fabric markers or paint to make the buildings, but I would prefer the look of the fabric.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="186" LastEditorUserId="186" LastEditDate="2017-03-26T03:13:29.347" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T20:48:40.970" Title="How can I attach a large satin applique to a skirt?" Tags="|adhesives|sewing|clothing|fabric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2885" CreationDate="2017-03-26T05:31:55.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered what your skyline design will look like when the skirt is on and all that fabric drapes and folds down?  I fear your design will be indecipherable, and you will have spent so much time on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design would be better seen as you imagine it if you placed it on a straight or an a-line skirt, although I realize that may not be the look you are going for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did opt for a straight or an a-line skirt, the amount of hand sewing you would need to do to attach the applique would be significantly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you could cut out a negative-space stencil of the pattern, put double-edged tape on the cut edges, place the stencil on the skirt base fabric, and either paint the positive space (the bare fabric) with a brush or spray paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T05:31:55.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2884" CreationDate="2017-03-26T10:28:07.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best first step is to convert your image into a vector format from the current raster image. Vector format images are composed of &quot;descriptions&quot; that could be considered as a road map of the image. As an example, a square can be defined as four points and four lines. The vector image can be easily processed by laser cutter, vinyl cutter and CNC router if you have access to these machines or are in an area with a makerspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need only one use of the image, you could have it cut in vinyl, apply it to the surface, cast your media and remove the vinyl. I suspect that it would be less expensive to have a stencil cut rather than vinyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search for &quot;stencil cutting services&quot; shows me there are many resources in that respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will be creating this stencil for multi-color results, you will have to have a color separation of the vector image, with registration marks as part of the output. That is to say, you would have a set of openings on one stencil for the black, another stencil for the red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One critical consideration is the detail and resolution of your image. The image you've posted shows dithering. This is the area where small dots appear in one color with another color as the background. This can be challenging for the cutter, if you do not perform the raster to vector conversion yourself. If you do the conversion, you will also find it challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider how your image will appear if the dithering is removed or converted to solid colors. Will that be acceptable? Also consider to search using the terms &quot;david bowie vector image&quot; for a better choice of your stencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I found this as a result of the search:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tYjwB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tYjwB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;David Bowie Vector Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the edges are crisp and solid. Two colors means a single stencil, more easily accomplished for a reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another caution. This image and almost any you find will have floaters in the stencil. These are sections that have no attachment to the edge of the stencil. Stencil fonts always have the floaters secured to the edges. Art work cannot have the luxury and attain the desired result. As such, it may be necessary to resort to one-shot vinyl, as the stencil remains attached to transfer tape until applied to the surface, keeping the floaters in place until peeled from the surface. Bowie's right eye is an example if you consider that the stencil material is black and the medium is white paint. Curiously, in this example, it would appear that only his eye and nostril are floaters and the rest of the stencil is well secured by the neck area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some stencils can be secured by very thin strips of edited lines but have to be treated carefully in handling to avoid breaking those attachment points. In the example image, one could create a connection from the left edge of his eye to the outside and another from the right edge of the eyebrow to the right side, a thin uni-brow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your post, you suggest a 3' x 2' poster, which would require tiling of the stencils, I expect. You would be able to find a service that can cut the entire full size, but it might not be inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the most difficult part of your project would be to find a satisfactory vector image and the remainder is simply money or labor. If you have a good vector image and good stencil material, you could print the image in tiles, cut the vector lines with a hobby knife and create it on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you create your own, you can also consider to apply spray adhesive to the tiles, attach the uncut stencil to the MDF and begin the cutting process. This also removes the problem of floating sections, as the adhesive will secure them. Some spray adhesive will release relatively easily, as will rubber cement when properly applied. MDF doesn't hold well with such adhesives, but will hold well enough for stencil cutting purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T01:05:47.217" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T01:05:47.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2885" CreationDate="2017-03-26T15:05:55.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;iron-on stuff to stick them together&quot; that you'd heard about is called &lt;strong&gt;fusible interfacing.&lt;/strong&gt; For satin, you will be looking for a &quot;lightweight&quot; or &quot;feather&quot; interfacing that has heat-activated adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only needs a second or less of contact with an iron to melt to fabric, and  will not bleed through like glue. I recently used it to attach lace to satin, and it performed beatifully. Satin to a thicker base fabric should be similarly successful. Just make sure your iron isn't on the hottest setting -- neither the fabric nor the interfacing need that much heat :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T15:05:55.340" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2847" CreationDate="2017-03-26T16:08:38.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main question has already been answered. But the user also wants to know which white pigments would work. To my knowledge, there are at least 3 options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Titanium Dioxide&lt;/strong&gt; white is most widely used but you should be aware that in the State of California, every product containing it is marked with: &lt;em&gt;&quot;known to the State of California to cause cancer or reproductive toxicity&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. That cannot be good and such pigment cannot be completely harmless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Zinc Oxide&lt;/strong&gt; white is also widely used and although more opaque than Titanium Dioxide, it is not labeled as causing cancer anywhere to my knowledge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calcium Carbonate&lt;/strong&gt; is also a solution and even though less refined than Titanium Dioxide, it can be very cheap because you can simply use &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;chalk&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; instead (chalk is calcium carbonate). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could still mention &lt;em&gt;lead white pigments&lt;/em&gt; (lead carbonate and such), but as with any lead based pigment, they are widely known to be toxic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tested lead pigments with milk paint but any of the first 3 pigments I mentioned definitely work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1724" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T16:08:38.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2017-03-27T15:25:25.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three sources of T-shirt stretch - fiber, yarn, and fabric construction.  In the case of a cotton T-shirt, the most significant stretch comes from fabric construction (knit), yarn is second, fiber third.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinner your strips, the stretchier they will be, and the more loose yarn and fiber that will &quot;shed.&quot; Also, the thinner your strips, the more impact of the knit unraveling during handling, wear, and care.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you cut up all your shirts, I suggest testing different widths for strength, stretch, and fiber/yarn loss.  If you plan to knit your strips, give that a test too.  You can increase strength somewhat by washing and drying before you cut.  You might also test the benefits of cutting with pinking shears.  This is a great &quot;repurposing&quot; idea!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T15:25:25.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2017-03-27T23:08:21.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love making my own ironing board covers, you can match the other fabrics in your room, or just be playful with it.  I always use 100% cotton but a tighter weave than canvas, the objective is to achieve as smooth a surface as possible so you don't inadvertently iron in a pattern. In addition to muslin and percales, check out the upholstery section of your fabric store, some good ideas there as well. It's also sometimes cheaper to use an inexpensive twin sheet.  For the padding, I use a couple of layers of wool felt which comes on 60&quot; bolts and is available in most fabric stores in neutral colors.  Wool will not hold moisture as much as cotton will and is also very heat resistant, much more so than foam padding which will yellow and can show through your cotton top. I make a drawstring casing all around and pull a cord through with a safety pin, pull tight, smooth the corners, and tie.  Have fun!  What a space saver that type of fold-out ironing board is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T23:08:21.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2866" CreationDate="2017-03-28T00:23:02.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will reiterate @catija's referral to the Ring Lord website.  I have actually purchased chain mail supplies from them (for jewelry, not actual armor) and they have a great variety of materials, and quite a bit of information about working with those materials as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you poke around their site, you will find lots of finished projects, and free resources.  And, because they sell the loops, most everything will be labelled with the size of the loop and the wire dimensions.  It should give you a good idea of the good materials that offer a good balance between wearability (i.e. weight and fluidity) and still offer some protection.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T00:23:02.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2017-03-28T06:30:52.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do need to use glue, what I would do is use an ice cream stick to evenly spread a layer of glue over the paper, and when sticking it to the cardboard, use another ice cream stick to make sure that it is nice and flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T06:30:52.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3062" CreationDate="2017-03-28T18:17:30.187" Score="6" ViewCount="3551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently in the process of swirl painting one of my guitars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/swirlpaint/swirlpnt.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;swirl painting&lt;/a&gt;, you fabricate a colored film of oil paint on water with borax. The borax is used to better spread the color film. I think it increases the surface tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, since, in Germany, as a private household, you can't get borax any more, I can't get my hands on borax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have an idea of a substitute? My practical chemistry skills have gotten quite rusty after years of theoretical chemistry, so I could use some help here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soap wouldn't help because - I think - it would dissolve the oil paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I use a thinner for the oil paint? Would that give me the same results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would you say borax isn't even needed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1847" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T12:07:40.397" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T12:07:40.397" Title="Borax substitute for swirl painting" Tags="|painting|material-selection|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2895" CreationDate="2017-03-28T22:05:11.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of alternatives to Borax online for making &quot;slime,&quot; but I don't think the rubbery texture will work for you. The closest non-Borax idea I found that might meet your needs is to use either colored Jello or plain powdered gelatin (it's often in the vitamin supplement section of a drug store or pharmacy, or in a grocery store in the baking products aisle), add the amount of boiling water that after mixing well will flow enough for painting, but will dry down enough not to be sticky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably experiment with different amounts of water and /or gelatin, as well as different cooling times, before applying, but this is a really simple, inexpensive, legal &quot;recipe&quot; and has the added benefit of being edible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T23:48:06.400" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T23:48:06.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2898" CreationDate="2017-03-29T06:16:34.027" Score="7" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I see yarn described as 'woolen spun' or 'worsted spun', and it is clearly not about its composition or weight, but I would guess about spinning technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are they? What do they mean for the yarn? What kind of projects are they good or bad for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other such descriptions that I should know about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T12:33:07.747" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T12:33:07.747" Title="What do 'woolen spun' and 'worsted spun' mean?" Tags="|terminology|yarn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2897" CreationDate="2017-03-29T16:00:45.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Woolen spun and worsted spun are references to the way the yarn is actually spun in the spinning process.  Worsted spun yarn includes individual fibers that are facing in many directions, whereas woolen spun has all of the fibers facing in the same direction before the yarn is spun and they remain much more parallel in the final spun singles. The process of spinning the two types of yarn is different as well, but less important to know if you are the end user of the yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Woolen spun tends to incorporate more air between the individual fibers, so a woolen yarn will weigh less than a comparably thick yarn that is worsted spun.  The additional air also helps heat retention, so garments made from woolen spun yarn can be lighter weight and still warmer than those made from a comparably thick worsted yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, because the individual fibers don't overlap each other the way they do in a worsted yarn, woolen spun yarn doesn't hold up over time as well as a worsted spun yarn.  It is also more likely to pill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for when to use which one--well the opinions on that question are all over the place.  I suggest googling &quot;woolen vs. worsted yarn&quot; and you will read a hundred different opinions.  But, in general, I would avoid woolen spun yarns for projects that are going to get alot of rubbing, pulling, tons of wear.  Be cautious about using a woolen spun yarn for something you are going to put on a kid, for example.  But a shawl would be the perfect use for a woolen spun yarn, because you are looking for additional warmth with minimal weight when you make a shawl, AND it is less likely to be subject to the type of usage that will cause pilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One confusing element is that worsted in this context means the fashion in which the fibers are prepared (and spun), whereas worsted is also used in many parts of the world to indicate yarn of a specific thickness. These two definitions have absolutely nothing to do with each other--so you could spin a woolen yarn that is worsted weight, and confuse the heck out of everyone. You could also spin a non-wool fiber using the woolen spin technique (I think--better spinners than I feel free to disagree), and then have a cotton yarn, for example, that is woolen spun.  Super confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important concept--singles vs. plied yarn.  When you first spin fiber into a strand of yarn, you have what is called a single.  The individual fibers are held together by adding twist into them--the amount of twist determines how strong the actual yarn is.  But think about what happens if a child sitting on a swing spins around a bunch of times and puts a twist in the ropes holding the swing.  They actually built up alot of energy in the ropes as they created that twist, and let go, the ropes release that energy by unspinning really quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Singles yarn is called &quot;energized&quot; because it has a similar inherent energy in it.  When you work with singles yarn, your final product will be much less consistent, even and smooth, because even after it is worked, the singles yarn is continually trying to release some of that built-up energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you ply yarn, you take a number of singles (I think three plies is the most common), and twist them together in the opposite direction from the twist you used to combine the fibers into a single strand. The aim when creating a plied yarn is to balance the residual energy from the singles without actually untwisting the yarn and having the individual fibers fall apart. When you ply yarn, you are specifically trying to create yarn that is balanced--you should be able to drop a strand of plied yarn and it will not try to untwist in either direction.  Working with plied yarn tends to create smoother, more even and more regular final products.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last issue I will mention is the directionality or type of twist in your yarn. Yarn can have an S twist or a Z twist.  This describes the direction the yarn was plied (and is compared to the direction of the center element in these two letters). If you hold up a piece of yarn and look closely, you will see that the individual threads (or singles) spin in a direction that either looks like an S (they start at the top left of the strand and move diagonally to the bottom right) or a Z (they start at the top right and move diagonally to the bottom left).  The technique that you use for knitting or crocheting can interact differently with the different twists--some techniques might twist the yarn in such a way that it comes partially untwisted as it is worked.  Because twist is what gives yarn its final strength, this can actually have an impact on the strength of your final piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty complex issue, and I don't know enough about it to be able to explain all of the permutations here.  My suggestion is to try and determine what type of technique you use for knitting (are you a thrower or a picker? Continental vs. English?) and/or crocheting (I don't know the equivalent terminology for crocheting, but I know that as a kid I used to crochet in a way that twisted the yarn less than I do know as an adult).  Once you know what to call your technique, you can start searching for that technique in combination with &quot;S or Z twist&quot; and see what people say about which works better in which situation.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T15:01:30.533" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T15:01:30.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4052" CreationDate="2017-03-30T00:49:13.160" Score="7" ViewCount="3960" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would I go about folding a fortune teller with more than 4 flaps? I already know that it is possible to cut-n-tape two fortune tellers together to get this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRLi6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KWxNv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, how would I go about folding something like this without using tape?&#xA;Also, supercalifragilisticexpialidocious hats off to you if you show how to fold fortune tellers of different sizes. A random example of this could be: if you could explain how to fold fortune tellers with a side number that is a multiple of 4 then that would be amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1854" LastEditorUserId="1854" LastEditDate="2019-04-30T21:11:07.293" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T21:11:07.293" Title="Extended Fortune Teller With &gt; 4 Flaps" Tags="|origami|unit-origami|action-origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2884" CreationDate="2017-03-31T04:29:57.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few specific points to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine what size of stencil you need. If the stencil is going to be large, it is okay to include small details. If the stencil is going to be small, a simpler design should be used.&#xA;Know how many colors you want to include in the stenciled image.These factors will affect the amount of materials you need and the number of stencils you need to create.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw an initial sketch of the image- At this point, you are only trying to develop the image that will become the stencil. You can experiment with patterns or attempt to hone a design that you had intended from the start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the type of stencil material &#xA;cardboard or foam board are good for large, simple stencils on flat surfaces.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper works for a single-use stencil on either flat or rounded surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poster board holds up better than paper and can be used on flat or slightly rounded surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic or clear acetate are good if creating reusable stencils for either flat or rounded surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frisket film, which is a clear film with a slightly sticky backing, is good for flat and rounded surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-03-31T12:07:59.877" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T12:07:59.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2017-03-31T04:45:38.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things you can do to avoid this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spray your paper with Acrylic sealer&lt;/strong&gt; - Spray both sides of the paper several times and allow to dry. sealers acts as a makeshift barrier. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can mist the paper with water&lt;/strong&gt; - This is especially important with thinner papers,then also use a roller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1862" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-03-31T12:06:54.080" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T12:06:54.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-03-31T12:58:43.117" Score="6" ViewCount="720" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the general recommendation as to what to do with the thread from a seam that has been broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this concern when I am repairing stuffed animals, which my kids have a plenty of, that get worn from general play or roughed up by real animals. The following diagram might better illustrate my issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/II3k6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/II3k6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Awesome image of broken seam&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above image the gray material represents the stuffing of the toy and the red is the existing thread from the stitching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally what I do is repair over the thread a small distance to try and trap the existing thread from pulling out further. That does not always work and sometimes it comes out anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Places where the seam only has thread from one end I tie my thread to the tail of the stitch and work away. I can't do that on both ends though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this questions motivation comes from small cheap toys but this would apply as well to some clothing seams as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-03-31T18:19:55.240" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T17:19:25.200" Title="How can I handle the existing thread from a broken seam?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2017-03-31T15:39:04.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always try some Fray Check on the loose threads and then tuck/poke them into the stuffing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T15:39:04.227" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2907" CreationDate="2017-03-31T16:44:17.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the ends of the old thread are long enough and strong enough, finish them off as you would the end of your hand stitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ends are strong enough but very short you can use tricks to tie the ends and tucked out of the way. My most used method is to stick the needle into the fabric close to where the last stitch is.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then I make a loop around the needle and insert into the eye of the needle, in such a way that the thread will make a knot when the needle is pulled through the fabric. If you have enough length, repeat once or twice, to make a more secure finish.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it is the last tuck, have the needle go up and down a few times going through the fabric of or near the seam.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can do this instead of tying onto the new yarn, but your method will also work if the yarn is still strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still stitch the new seam over the old one, making the switchover more secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the yarn is likely to break you may want to replace a bigger part of the stitching, even when the thread is not breaking yet. You can stitch over the old stitching or just next to it, or you can take out the old stitching and replace it with the new seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-04-02T17:19:25.200" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T17:19:25.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2884" CreationDate="2017-03-31T18:51:20.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The really cheapest way to do that is following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Divide your image into A4 pieces. The fastest way is to overlay it with a A4 raster. You can find those easly on the internet, or you create a grid in your graphic program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/suqBS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/suqBS.png&quot; alt=&quot;more divisions you make, the bigger your image will get;)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for your image you want to print it twice. Tape the pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now paint your board white. Add a drop of red to your paint - not to make it pink, but to get rid of the &quot;artificial whiteness&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you want to cut out the red parts. Just use the regular cutter knife.&#xA;Remember to be precise while cutting the lines meeting the white parts of the image. There where red meets with black you just need to get it &quot;round about&quot; as you gonna overlay it in the next step with black. For the background I would even recommend that you don't try to cut it accurate, but more for a sorta kind guideline, what is were. Black but on red would give a much nicer effect there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now for the final step - cut out the black parts. Here you want to be really precise. Add a dash of red to your black. Paint. Or Spray. If you are spraying adding a bit of other colour would be more tricky, but possible. You can experiments, and do some try outs with the mixing on the back of the board or regular cardboard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2017-04-17T18:30:13.157" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T18:30:13.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-01T11:38:46.233" Score="4" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have bought this beautiful piece of ceramic.  We have no idea how it is supposed to be used beyond the obvious decorative purpose. Any idea? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbQ4t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbQ4t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has an opening but we don't think it can be used as a salt (or pepper) shaker since the holes on the windows are too big and too close to the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPrau.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPrau.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1867" LastEditorUserId="1867" LastEditDate="2017-04-03T10:38:07.767" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T19:43:35.917" Title="What is this handmade ceramic good for?" Tags="|ceramics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2911" CreationDate="2017-04-01T13:55:55.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a salt (or pepper) shaker.  It has an opening on the bottom for filling, and the windows are the openings for shaking out the seasoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="221" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T13:55:55.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2911" CreationDate="2017-04-02T16:30:48.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks very much like a potpourri holder. It is certainly a lovely little piece. I would recommend that you look after it carefully, and make sure that it comes to no harm. The ceramicist appears to be Edith Rimington, of Flintshire, Wales, although I have not been able to find out anything about her on the Internet. This is a piece that may appreciate in value, but I would definitely keep it for its simple charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that we should avoid confusing Edith Rimington with the English surrealist artist, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edith_Rimmington&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Edith Rimmington&lt;/a&gt; (1902 – 1986). I doubt if they are the same person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastEditorUserId="874" LastEditDate="2017-04-02T17:25:15.647" LastActivityDate="2017-04-02T17:25:15.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1947" CreationDate="2017-04-03T04:20:48.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have some chain identical to the chain on your necklace, extending the chain is not too hard to do. Since the chain is made up of small metal rings, all you have to do is twist open one ring on the chain and link in the extra chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1872" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T04:20:48.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-03T12:48:34.473" Score="3" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A picture can say a thousand words&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes we have to portray a series of scenes into one single picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wan to make a painting which depicts a series of things into one single element, Currently I am finding it very difficult to portray multiple scenes into on painting, because due to multiple scenes I cannot force user to focus on only particular thing in that painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T16:29:49.693" Title="How to narrate a complete story into a single painting?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-04T15:46:05.093" Score="6" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was finally able to setup a craft space at home and got a Blick cutting mat but after a few days it's warped. I have two culprits in mind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The mat is black and it is right next to a very large window with a SSW orientation, so it gets a lot of sunlight. There is nothing I can do about this, it's the living room, so we need the light and there is really no other location for the craft space. Is there a mat that will handle being in the sun that way or some other precaution I can take?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I do some leatherworking which involves hammering. Could the hammering have caused the warping? What's a good way to prevent that?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1876" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T20:15:41.443" Title="How to prevent my cutting mat from warping?" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2917" CreationDate="2017-04-04T20:15:41.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking each aspect in turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Covering the mat with something white, a sheet of paper, a fabric sheet, a light colored towel, may provide protection from any thermal related warping. If the mat is warping in a manner that causes it to lift upward in the center, generally speaking, you may be getting &quot;top layer&quot; thermal expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hammering is less definitive, unless you can see patterns in the mat. If you are hammering in a regularly visited location, it may be splaying out under the mallet or hammer, causing a sort of bottom layer expansion, which would result in the edges curling upward. It would take substantial hammering in the same location to accomplish this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small sections of localized bending could be the result of hammering. It would result in an irregular form of warping, perhaps dimples in some areas, bumps or moguls in others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-self-healing-cutting-mats/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blick web site&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&quot;If your Blick Cutting Mat should become bent or distorted, simply heat it in sunlight or hot water until it becomes pliable and then lay it flat until cool.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could consider to play a hair dryer over the surface to &quot;relax&quot; the warping or bumps. I would recommend against anything as powerful as a heat gun, as it has the capabilities to melt the surface in a very short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are successful in flattening the mat, shade and cooling air flow are your friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T20:15:41.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2929" CreationDate="2017-04-05T00:29:28.387" Score="5" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to create crystal patterns on a glass like in the following video: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9Kntk47P6k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/e9Kntk47P6k/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Crystal pattern example on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how should I proceed in order to get a snowflake pattern, for instance, or other specific design using the above similar frosting technique? Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1880" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-04-06T18:43:35.040" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T01:15:24.693" Title="Frosting on a glass surface to have specific patterns" Tags="|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-05T14:21:00.670" Score="8" ViewCount="6587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently learned about the existence of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000C0CIR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iron-on transfer papers&lt;/a&gt;, and how it allows someone to transfer a print onto cotton fabrics with any custom design a person can print from their inkjet printers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have not been that lucky when it comes to other kinds of fabric. In particular, I want to transfer a picture to a softshell jacket. I have found online shops that offer the service (unfortunately far from my location and the delivery is not possible or too expensive), but I am wondering if there is a way to do it at home without specialized equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Update replying to the comment:&lt;/strong&gt; I myself am very new to the term as well, and it seems there is no clear consensus on what it is or not softshell. The best approach I have been able to find mentions polyester. But in general I am thinking of a light jacket that is slightly water resistant -not waterproof-, fit for sports like running or riding. I hope this is not too broad of an answer!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Sorry for keep replying to the comments as updates. Unfortunately, merging the account is at the moment a bit impractical for me, and with the guest accounts I do not have yet enough reputation to comment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not ordered a specific jacket yet, as I want to find out first what can be done and which material would be best for my purpose. However, as a reference, I have been looking for something in this direction: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.4imprint.com/tag/382/Soft-Shell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.4imprint.com/tag/382/Soft-Shell&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1886" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T17:10:03.120" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T16:47:23.390" Title="How to do iron-on transfers on a softshell jacket" Tags="|clothing|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2885" CreationDate="2017-04-05T19:03:16.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started doing applique years ago, I used a satin stitch on my machine, this tight zig zag technique was fast and easy albeit very thread heavy. Since then, I'd use a longer stitch which isn't as bulky and still keeps the fabric from fraying. True applique is the slow, turn over and stitch. Satin stitching can be fun. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSQjB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSQjB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;satin stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2017-04-09T20:48:40.970" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T20:48:40.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2017-04-06T13:39:46.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple ways to narrate a story in one painting. Some were already pointed out in the comments to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The comic book way:&lt;/strong&gt; By this I mean the arrangement of the scenes in multiple frames that are all on one painting (a comic that consists of only one page if you will). There are multiple ways to arrange the frames but most commonly the reading order of the intended audience is used. In the western world you narrate from left to right and top to bottom, whereas for manga its right to left and top to bottom. Text may be used to develop the scene, but the distinguishing feature are the multiple frames. Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://wwalterscott.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/08WS2015DirtChapter-768x696.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wendy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by 'in one single element' you mean that you don't want to use multiple frames there are still some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Composition:&lt;/strong&gt; In painting the composition is the most important factor when it comes to telling a story in one picture. Setting up your narration you have to think about where the story begins: this will correspond to a section in the picture the eye of the viewer is immediately drawn to. This can be achieved using size, light, color, or the place in the image (usually a viewer 'reads' the image from the top left to the bottom right). Using a decreasing amount of emphasis for the following scenes, the eyes of the viewer will gaze along the line of your story (look for books about composition and see also &lt;a href=&quot;http://vanseodesign.com/web-design/direct-the-eye/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; mentioned by John Vukelic in the comments).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Format:&lt;/strong&gt; if you use an unusual format for your painting the composition to tell a story might be easier obtained. Taking a really wide format - like for a panorama - the viewer will not be able to capture the entire image with all details in a single glance and thus has to digest the image sequentially, which is ideal. Psychology suggests that most humans will start from the right (e.g. Werner Tübke's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.panorama-museum.de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'Peasants War Panorama'&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another example would be to have a picture whose height is large compared to the width. The movement of the eye will then probably start at eye-height of the viewer and then move up before it goes down again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Put a lot into the image&lt;/strong&gt;. Some pictures of the early (middle European) renaissance will simply contain a lot of scenes connected by landscape or other (most notably the images of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hieronymus_Bosch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hieronymus Bosch&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pieter Bruegel&lt;/a&gt;. With this approach it will be harder to tell a strict-time-line-story without using further tricks, as there is simply too much going on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically everything boils down to the composition of your painting when you want to narrate a chronological story. &lt;strong&gt;Planning carefully and sketching the composition&lt;/strong&gt; is mandatory to get a satisfactory result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://artfivefive.blogspot.de/2011/10/historical-and-contemporary-narrative.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; blog-post about narrative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T13:53:58.897" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T13:53:58.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2928" CreationDate="2017-04-06T23:15:15.177" Score="8" ViewCount="12508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm drawing an image with quite a large range of tones and I plan to draw the darker tones in charcoal. However, I used a graphite pencil for the preparatory drawing. Is it still possible to draw with charcoal even in an area where graphite has been applied, or do I have to prepare the area before adding the charcoal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T10:42:55.937" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T13:23:04.780" Title="Is it possible to combine charcoal and graphite in one image?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|pencil-shading|charcoal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2927" CreationDate="2017-04-07T00:52:45.053" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can mix media. But you need to preserve some of the tooth of your paper's surface to successfully transition from working with graphite to charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tooth of your paper determines how well things will catch and hold to the surface of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you pass your pencil, or charcoal, across the paper's surface little bits of the drawing tool are abraded and deposited onto the drawing surface. Its the abraded pencil material sitting in the grooves of the paper that form the image. Unlike paint that gets absorbed and wicked into the fibres of the paper the abraded dust particles of your pencil are caught and held by the fibres of the paper. Not absorbed but held in place. This is why very smooth paper doesn't take to pencil very well. A smooth piece of paper won't abrade material off the pencil. No deposited material. No image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the problem with pencils is they are made from a material that can fill and smooth the tooth of the paper quite well. The &amp;quot;graphite&amp;quot; in pencils is made from mixture of graphite and clay. Heavily working your pencil over the paper's surface will cause two things to happen: the tooth of the paper will be worn down and there will be a large deposit of graphite and clay filling the remaining voids in the paper. I have had it happen to me where I have overworked a pencil drawing and the surface of the paper has what almost looks like a mirror finish. The burninshing results in a perfectly smooth surface that nothing can grab onto, not charcoal or paint will stick to these burnished areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your case if you have been gentle with the application of graphite to the surface of the paper and retained some of the tooth then you should have no worries about working charcoal onto the surface as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T13:23:04.780" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T13:23:04.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2919" CreationDate="2017-04-07T01:15:24.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL/DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a sponge and cut it to shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loved an excuse for a quick experiment. So, the patterns in the video are made from an Epson salt solution with the following ingredients per the linked video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/2 cup of hot/boiling water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/3 cup of Epson salts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Teaspoon of dishwashing liquid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a few different techniques to make specific patterns. The basic idea is to control the amount of liquid applied. Too much and it will bleed and drip down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Napkin snowflake&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AxS0g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AxS0g.png&quot; alt=&quot;Napking snowflake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Picture taken after solution was applied&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wanted to try something that would hold liquid and not tear easily after it was cut. Most common napkins are frail so I used a heavier duty one. Any absorbent cloth would work but napkins are easier to come by. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSavY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSavY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Napkin on window&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Tried to keep my face and dirty kitchen out of the picture. You don't need more detail to know it looks awful&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This didn't turn out quite good at all. It was hard to get the right amount of liquid applied and keep the detail. Only my first attempt mind you. Read onto sponge for and improved version of what I was trying for here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sponge&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXUL3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VXUL3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sponge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I think you will get the most out of this project. This sponge I used for testing is perforated as you can see. I wanted to test fine details with this application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bMmI3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bMmI3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sponge on window &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Look at the detail!&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The level of detail retained from this application was next to perfect. I would highly recommend sponges for your application. You can pick some up cheap and cut them to shape. This will make it very easy to get applied control and maintain shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Napkin ball&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you are likely looking for more detail oriented designs but for completness sake I wanted to make larger items so I just balled up a napkin to make a heart design. This way my wife should not get made when she sees what I have done to the kitchen windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/845WM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/845WM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Napkin ball on window&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt; I jumped the gun for the photo but it did eventually fill out nice&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This worked as well as I would have hoped. The shape I made is what appeared on the window. It did bleed from the bottom so perhaps too much liquid was used. Easy to clean after the fact though with some water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fingers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much like in the video using fingers would be a useful tool as well. In the video it is shown drawing after the solution was applied to the window. The difference with me is I used my finger to apply the solution to the window surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmgm5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmgm5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fingers on window&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expected results here as well. Design showed well except where some bleeding occurred. I made a happy face which ended up looking more like a horseshoe. Other pictures are a star, the characters A&amp;amp;C and an isometric box (that is not in the picture at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend the sponge for sure because it helps with easy controlled application. Once you get a feel for the amount of liquid you can easily get the design you want without the salt solution creeping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T01:15:24.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2874" CreationDate="2017-04-07T03:00:53.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;In a nutshell&lt;/s&gt; You don't need to limit yourself to only adhesives. There are plenty of pistachio shell and shell art in general that just use thread / wire to connect the project together. The shells on pistachios at least are hard enough that most people just push a pin or nail through the shell to make a small hole. Basically any thin and sharp implement should to the trick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach can be more forgiving than adhesive, in some situations, as it will allow for some movement as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lends better to smaller projects like earrings but can still be applied to different scales. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am fairly certain this was done, at least in part, in the photo you attached. Look closely at the inset in the upper right corner. On the off chance I am wrong about that &quot;sewing&quot; the shells together can still be a valid approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T11:55:12.153" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T11:55:12.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2911" CreationDate="2017-04-07T19:43:35.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me those holes look like something you would see in an incense holder. I used to have one made of terra cotta that looked like an adobe house, that I purchased on my very first trip to Santa Fe, New Mexico.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a quick google search to see if I could find a picture of one like the one that I used to have, and instead I stumbled across the Incense Burner Virtual Museum website (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kandaki.com/BP-Index.php?st=c&amp;amp;shp=Building&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.kandaki.com/BP-Index.php?st=c&amp;amp;shp=Building&lt;/a&gt;).  The one I used to have was similar to the fifth one down on the linked page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, looking at the other items on the page, there were two that specifically reminded me of your item:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1Y9U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1Y9U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SHiV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SHiV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Incense Burner Virtual Museum site describes the usages for each one--the top one is designed for use with a scented pastille, and the bottom one is supposed to be used with perfumed oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that information, my next search took me to this Pinterest page called &amp;quot;Pastille Burners,&amp;quot; which states that these items were &amp;quot;quite popular in aristocratic homes during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I.&amp;quot;  Make sure to go take a look at the page (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/tlight2/pastille-burners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pinterest.com/tlight2/pastille-burners/&lt;/a&gt;); many of the pieces shown remind me of yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T19:43:35.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2927" CreationDate="2017-04-08T04:05:18.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're putting the charcoal &lt;em&gt;over&lt;/em&gt; the graphite, the hardness of the graphite can make a difference in the appearance. Here's a quick example using 4 hardness types. From top to bottom, 6H, 2H, 2B, 6B, overlaid with willow charcoal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RZ947.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RZ947.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image has its contrast boosted a little, to show the differences, but in person it's actually more evident than this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's happened here is two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The harder graphite has created a smoother surface on the paper, because it's &quot;stronger&quot; and the paper gives way to the graphite more than the softer graphite. So, in essence, the harder pencils are more likely to eliminate the tooth of the paper. Without this tooth, the charcoal has less surface to stick to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The harder graphites become more grey than black as they get lighter. This increases the contrast between the dark charcoal and the pencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combined, these two things make the 6H and 2H lines look almost like untouched paper compared to the black charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this next example, I used a 2B compressed stick of graphite and the same willow charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxxgF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxxgF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, where I intentionally pressed very heavily, you can see a strong contrast between the charcoal and the graphite. In the image, it looks a little out of place, but in person it simply looks like I'm using a different tone of black/grey instead. The caveat is that, when viewed from an angle or under certain lighting angles, &lt;strong&gt;the charcoal is matte while the graphite is glossy&lt;/strong&gt;. So, aside from tonal contrast you'll have contrast in the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you don't really see here is that in the spots directly around where I've marked &quot;light&quot; is that I actually had graphite below. &lt;strong&gt;With light enough strokes, I could do a complete underdrawing that would essentially be invisible to viewers once I lay down the charcoal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T04:05:18.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-09T13:24:01.907" Score="4" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cool Ethan Allen wooden entertainment center. A few weeks ago my kids knocked something large and heavy into the front drawer leaving a divot and a loss of veneer for about 2 square inches (12 square cm). The divot seems simple enough to repair with wood fill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The veneer is made from maple, or something similar, and waxed. The color scheme is yellow/tan, orange, and brown stripes for the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What kind of paint should I use to try to match the surrounding veneer?&lt;/strong&gt; Between kids and dust, a damp rag or weak cleaning solution will be used from time to time. My initial instinct is acrylic, but perhaps oil or Duo Aqua would work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1776" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T01:12:03.530" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T01:12:03.530" Title="What type of paint to repair my wooden veneer?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2939" CreationDate="2017-04-09T15:10:17.613" Score="10" ViewCount="2557" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I look at super realistic portrait drawings in charcoal or graphite, I wonder how to draw single hairs against a black background (on white paper, though) like in these pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YfRmp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YfRmp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/p/1dr_tZhOh3/?taken-by=charcoal_n_stuff&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtju6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtju6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;by Emanuele Dascanio&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to erase the fine line out of the black background with a fine eraser or do I have to leave out the line while darkening the background? What is the best way to achieve results similar to those above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T10:29:41.347" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T01:40:09.390" Title="How can I draw single hairs on a black background with charcoal or graphite?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|portrait-drawing|charcoal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2941" CreationDate="2017-04-09T18:52:52.993" Score="6" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to repair a cracked pottery bowl - an epoxy seems like a reasonable choice since there are some gaps of around 1mm width. The material seems fairly porous, and is maybe 3-4mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is only going to be good for display, so I don't need to worry about temperature resistance or toxicity too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is epoxy the best choice here, or am I missing something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="985" OwnerDisplayName="Sean Houlihane" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T22:00:12.167" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T13:07:52.600" Title="Is epoxy a reasonable adhesive choice for repairing pottery?" Tags="|adhesives|epoxy-resin|pottery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2937" CreationDate="2017-04-09T19:26:02.777" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flocculent beauty of the work you show is not that the artists drew a single hair (that would never achieve the effect) the beauty came from the artists layering one drawn hair &quot;over&quot; another and repeating it until the desired depth was achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of two artists on Youtube who demonstrate this layering process (with explanations for their reasoning)&#xA;Darrel Tank &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsEiMe3OiGo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsEiMe3OiGo&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Stan Prokopenko &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHewz3JbKrQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHewz3JbKrQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a simple example of the layering process. This is based on a presentation by Darrel Tank. If you wan to see the complete process in action then check out his video series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this example I will use an HB mechanical pencil, a kneaded eraser and brush. Paper is 400 series strachmore (60lb). I only have white paper and black pencils. Don't focus on the materials. Focus on the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGSx5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGSx5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a couple of simple strokes the first strands of the hair are stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4mSAP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4mSAP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pencil strokes are softened using a brush by gently brushing across the surface. The harder the pencil the more difficult it will be to soften the pencil marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iwlg6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iwlg6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I take a kneaded eraser and form it into a sharp thin edge. Drawing the eraser cross the surface removes some of the pencil markings and leaves behind a negative space creating the illusion of overlapping strands of hair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUXmm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUXmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I go back and restate some of the lines with the pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7CwG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h7CwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again I use the brush to soften the marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFWhO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uFWhO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process is repeated until the desired layering effect is achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfuYx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfuYx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the steps as many times as needed until the desired effect is achieved. Don't be as heavy handed as i was in laying down the layers. The harder you press the more difficult it will be to remove the pencil marks. A light touch is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above was just one example of how to create the layered effect you are looking to achieve. Masking and opaque paints can also be used but they too rely of the layering for the desired effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2017-04-09T19:32:43.553" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T19:32:43.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2936" CreationDate="2017-04-09T20:20:53.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matching paints and colours can be a science in itself. No matter what you do the chances of it match perfectly are close to none. I don't have much advice to offer when it comes to painting. But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not an answer to your exact question but wanted to offer a different suggestion then painting. Why not just patch the veneer? One the first obvious questions would be I can't find something that matches. You don't really need to anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of people who patch veneers are both old an modern furniture whether the end result is meant to be a simple repair or to add an accent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not have to be a simple square patch either. You have the opportunity to make something truly special and unique. In it simplest form find some existing veneers, thin scrap wood etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Severally simplified steps &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;I don't image you are going to do this anyways.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a shape you would like that compliments the damaged area. It is actually preferred that it be &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; thicker than what you are replacing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove any extra remaining veneer are the area. Use the patch you created in the previous step as a template. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the &quot;void&quot; and fill in if damage is severe. (You could use plastic glue in your case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue in place. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand down. Card scrapers are useful here but not something everyone has. Careful around the existing veneer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish as desired.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many tutorial examples out there but here is one where a table with a cigarette burn was patched and finished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jOtgW695LE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://img.youtube.com/vi/5jOtgW695LE/mqdefault.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Video thumbnail&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mid Century Table Veneer Repair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-04-09T20:20:53.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2938" CreationDate="2017-04-09T20:34:33.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;epoxy seems like a reasonable choice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxies are really versatile and can give very strong results. It would have been the first thing I considered as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;since there are some gaps of around 1mm width&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely not an issue but most glues need perfectly mated surfaces for good adhesion. There are expanding glues, like Gorrila Glue, but most? epoxies are not meant to fill gaps. As long as there are sufficiently mated surface area this would be a non issue. If you do end up gluing it, think ahead of how the project will be sitting as it dries. Epoxies and take several hours to cure. If something shifts during that time you might be stuck with it (Ha, I made a pun)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am glad to see you already took some precautionary thought when it came to temperature and toxicity. I would have asked other wise if you had concerns about food safety. Some epoxies are food safe once cured and most have varying temperature tolerances. Read your product documentation carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a cheap 2-part epoxy to repair the handle on my pottery mug that broke in 4 places after I accidentally threw it of my work desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IWEn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5IWEn.png&quot; alt=&quot;My renaissance fair mug &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the handle shifted while curing, as I can see a crack (not very visible on the right hand side of the photo) that should not be there, but it has held strong for over a year now. The &amp;quot;crack&amp;quot; you see in front is a void because I could not find the chip the came from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T13:07:52.600" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T13:07:52.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2937" CreationDate="2017-04-10T00:24:02.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is important to understand the concept of layers. It also depends on the medium. Sometimes a &quot;charcoal drawing&quot; implements other media. Sometimes what appears to be black on white is actually white on black. There is also a process using a &quot;scratch board&quot; where the black surface is scratched away to reveal the white layer underneath. On a plain charcoal drawing though, one might use white chalk as a last step to create highlights. Erasing can be used to some extent, but I find it hard to get back to bright white that way. I had a professor who suggested using white-out or white paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T00:24:02.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2865" CreationDate="2017-04-10T00:34:53.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are very careful with the tools you can do some shallow tooling. Tools with rounded tips would be best. You might be able to just kind of smooth out the texture of the leather in certain areas to create contrast. Even if you back the leather, deeper lines and sharper tools will cut through. You might be able to get creative with some colored leather backings so that when the tool breaks through the color underneath will show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T00:34:53.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="506" CreationDate="2017-04-10T00:54:06.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have local greenhouse or garden center type store they should have some house plant palms. Areca palms have some nice long fronds that may work for you. Date palms have some good fronds for weaving as well, but watch out for the thorns. The end of the frond is best, because there are no thorns there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T00:54:06.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2962" CreationDate="2017-04-10T21:31:44.747" Score="10" ViewCount="10444" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do people get so concerned over antler dust when knife carving. I wear a mask when I work with it. But what if you didn't wear a mask? What would the dangers be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1727" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-04-10T22:50:01.527" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T16:01:51.433" Title="Why is wearing a mask recommended when carving antler?" Tags="|safety|carving|bone|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2949" CreationDate="2017-04-11T00:06:29.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will make a comparison with wood. Ever have a splinter before? They can hurt and bleed and become infected in some cases. Now imagine small microns of bone dust in your lungs. They can cause minute tissue scars inside you that you cannot repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not because of the carving itself so much as the smoothing and finishing with other tools like sand paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood dust is a known carcinogen and I imagine that bone dust is in the same boat for the same reason. Most types of dust are in this category. Once that gets into your lungs it can cause irreparable damage. It takes very little to get into the air and stay there for a while before settling long after the work is done. This increases the exposure time. For more details of what happens you can read &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2962/44&quot;&gt;magerber's answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only should you be wearing a mask and eye protection but you need to be sure you are wearing a mask that is capable of stopping small microns. Something simple like a bandanna or a cheap mask used for simple paint jobs will not be enough. True, you might only be doing this for a short period of time in your life but it is very easy to mitigate the risk of this and getting new lungs is hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at masks or respirators pay attention to the micron size they are rated for. Something in the 5 or lower range would be a good fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T19:00:48.497" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T19:00:48.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-11T03:36:01.707" Score="4" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago, I decided to learn to type with 10 fingers, rather than 2 (two index fingers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I followed a strict prescription of how to place the hand, and where to place each finger, etc.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I learned how to type with 10 fingers, which has significantly improved my typing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am considering to also improve my writing efficiency/effectiveness regarding the more ancient art of written words (pen and paper). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there some method, some set of prescriptions for how to place the hand and move the fingers, for writing neatly, clearly, and quickly with pen and paper?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1918" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T22:31:54.287" Title="How to write neatly with pen and paper?" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2700" CreationDate="2017-04-11T07:24:35.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material you are looking for is sold in europe (or at least in germany) by the chemical name: &lt;strong&gt;calciumhydroxid (ca(OH)2&lt;/strong&gt;. You can purchase it as a paste oder in powder form practically everywhere; your next door pharmacy, home depot store, aquaristic store or online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1919" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T07:24:35.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2017-04-11T10:19:14.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fear of imperfection when drawing is the curse of the left hemisphere of your brain interfering with the creativity inspired by the right-side of your brain activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silencing that problematic inner monologue requires practice, patience and often some tuition and guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own art teacher, &lt;a href=&quot;http://artworks.kiwi/brain-left-right-side-dominated/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kimbra Taylor&lt;/a&gt;, focuses very much on using mindfulness as a tool to realise your full potential as an artist and avoid unhelpful negative self-talk - see the link to her blog for more information on the left / right side of the brain issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1921" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T10:19:14.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2938" CreationDate="2017-04-11T16:19:29.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;By epoxy I presume you mean Araldite etc. Do not use this, it has too much bulk and you will never get a good fit. Use superglue to stick it together to begin with, and then you can fill the gaps with a suitable filler. I have used Polyfiller, which then gets sanded, painted and varnished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried and failed too many times to re-repair items done with epoxy. It takes too long to set, giving plenty of time for the pieces to slip, as you have found out. You cannot then remove the glue for a second chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Superglue will give an almost invisible mend (depending on condition of break) and also sets quickly enough to hold together with the fingers (carefully!). This, combined with filler for any missing splinters, will give a repair plenty good enough for display and probably for restricted use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T15:51:41.187" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T15:51:41.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2142" CreationDate="2017-04-11T16:35:17.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tom is absolutely right, but only if you're a weekend painter. If you paint every or most days it's far too onerous and you'll probably let it slip after a while! Better to wash the brushes in white spirit as best you can and then suspend them in genuine turpentine. You can buy commercial gadgets to do this but an elastic band around the bundle of brushes, a stick of some kind pushed through the bundle below the elastic band, and suspend them in turps in a jam jar works perfectly well and costs nothing. The reason I say use turps is that is your medium, or part of it, so just squeeze out the surplus an away you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T16:35:17.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-12T20:32:48.603" Score="5" ViewCount="2444" Body="&lt;p&gt;While sewing along a nice straight line the thread bunches, I look at the thread path and it is out from between the tension disks or not on the spring or the bobbin thread is out from under the tension. I do not understand what &quot;machine gremlin&quot; is attacking me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1932" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T16:55:09.157" Title="Thread slipping out of tension discs, off spring, upper lever or bobbin thread slips out of tension" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1734" CreationDate="2017-04-12T20:36:56.790" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a heating pad to warm the clay and make it more pliable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1932" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T20:36:56.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2957" CreationDate="2017-04-12T23:11:56.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds frustrating! The easy things to do first are to be sure you are using good quality thread; rethread your machine, both top thread and bobbin thread; replace your needle with a new one and make sure it's inserted all the way and in the right direction (the flat side toward the back is how I insert mine); make sure you have the correct bobbin size, that the bobbin is inserted correctly, and that the bobbin thread was filled correctly (not loose or crooked).  From there, if these haven't solved your problem, you need to check your bobbin and thread tensions.  Most machines have a little screw on the bobbin case that you can loosen or tighten.  Adjusting the top thread tension is different on different machines, but I've used machines with those tension disks you mention and suggest you make sure you start out with the thread between the disks and not to the side. Then adjust the tension by tightening or loosening the disks, there is usually a thumb screw for that.  If you have the User's Guide for your machine, there should be a section about thread and bobbin tension, how to adjust them, and a table showing ranges of tensions for commonly used fabric types.  If you don't have that Guide, you may have to experiment.  You may also have to experiment every time you sew on different thickness and fabric types.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T23:11:56.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-13T10:04:08.723" Score="2" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm modifying a Leatherman Surge, and in the process I'm custom building some new tools to go in it. For this, I need the exact measurements and shape of some of the mechanisms used in the tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The swiveled locking mechanism. I have previously found a website which hosted this information, but it went down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The universal shank that is used to connect jig saw blades to jig saws. This is also used in the Leatherman Surge but I don't think it is proprietary/unique.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A schematic diagram would be most helpful if someone has or can create one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Tom Brown" LastEditorUserId="1938" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T21:17:53.893" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T00:48:27.227" Title="What are the dimensions of the joint between the tools and body on a Leatherman Surge?" Tags="|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2949" CreationDate="2017-04-13T18:01:30.547" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think @matt's response is exactly correct, but I wanted to add a bit more to it. There are two concerns about inhaling dust--the size of the dust particle and the chemical composition of the particle.  There are lots of articles on-line that talk about how dust inhalation causes problems, but I will summarize &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/chemicals/lungs_dust.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; from the Canadian Centre of Occupational Health and Safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, your body has lots of systems designed to move dust particles back out of your lungs when you breathe them in. The first line of defense is a layer of mucus--the dust gets caught in this mucus and then these teeny hairs called cilia all wave together (imagine a crowd doing &quot;The Wave,&quot; or someone crowd surfing at a punk music venue) to move that dusty mucus out of your lungs and into your throat where you can cough it out (or swallow it--blech).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some very small dust particles can get past the mucus and cilia and end up in the very tiny air sacs in your lungs called alveoli. When this happens, your body produces cells called macrophages that surround the dust particles, and physically move it to the cilia so that they can do their job and move the particle out of your lungs. The lungs also produce a protein that neutralizes the dust particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you are inhaling a large amount of dust at one time, or over a long period of time, it can overwhelm your body's ability to produce microphages.  The dust particles accumulate in your lungs and reduce your ability to breath deeply--I imagine it something like a roof drain pipe clogged with leaves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some dust particles are composed of chemicals that interact with your body in nasty ways--apparently cigarette smoke actually paralyzes the cilia--so even if your microphages were working perfectly, it wouldn't matter. And there could be pathogens, bacteria or mold spores in the dust that could make you ill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in general, if you are working on something that is likely to create small dust particles like woodworking, carving antlers, using dye powder to dye fabrics, working with ground glass for fusing, etc., you want to limit the amount of dust that you inhale into your lungs.  Each exposure may not be dangerous on its own, but combined exposures over the course of your life can really build up and cause problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T18:01:30.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2963" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-14T17:02:18.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/yarn&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;yarn&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;yarn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/knots&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;knots&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;knots&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/crocheting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;crocheting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;crocheting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/knitting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;knitting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;knitting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/macrame&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;macrame&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;macrame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-03T20:01:00.820" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T20:01:00.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2964" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-14T17:02:18.803" Score="0" Body="For questions about craft projects that rely on the use of string, twine, cord, or rope." OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-03T20:01:00.820" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T20:01:00.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2965" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-04-14T17:12:36.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also known as Macrame lace, it is a knot technic in which a limited number of knots are used, mostly in a repetitive patern, to form flat as well as three dimensional items, often with an open structure. Knots used include Square knotting, double half hitches (also known as clove hitches if used in a different way) and other combinations of half hitches. Macrame has been in fashion in different period, well known era's are the 19th century and the 1970's, for more information see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macrame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-04-15T15:42:29.450" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T15:42:29.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2966" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-04-14T17:12:36.460" Score="0" Body="A knot of knot work." OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-04-15T15:42:21.163" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T15:42:21.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2205" CreationDate="2017-04-14T18:32:57.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to norcal johnny's excellent advice, the good news about treadles is they are almost indestructible.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Usually a new belt and a good oiling will get you started.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you also want a beautiful machine, that's a different story.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some of the old Singers are in great aethestic shape, but per norcal johnny's comment, you will be competing with people who want to make tables out of them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But you can find some gems if you look around. I've owned both a beautiful old Singer treadle that was a work of art, and a Pfaff industrial treadle that was a workhorse machine but not so gorgeous.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The Pfaff had no gold leaf scrolling, etc., but you could sew anything on it, sails, upholstery, leather and more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So decide in advance what you will be sewing most and why you want the machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-04-16T18:41:24.973" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T18:41:24.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-14T18:33:04.193" Score="8" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are seven friends planning to watch a sports game, and we are trying to get seven t-shirts that have the letters F E D E R E R. Buying them online seems expensive, and where it's cheaper you need to order 100 or more of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the most economical way we can get this done? Any craft/art ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same color t-shirt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Need seven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different letters on each.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1943" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-24T11:01:39.600" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T11:01:39.600" Title="Economical ideas for lettered t-shirts" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2968" CreationDate="2017-04-14T18:38:43.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy plain T-shirts and a (black) marker felt pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put cardboard between the front and back of the shirt when you put the letters on, so it will not bleed through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On coloured shirts you can use white markers as well, but do test that the marker shows up before you spend a lot of money on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-04-14T20:10:58.060" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T20:10:58.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2968" CreationDate="2017-04-14T21:59:20.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go for fusible web (sometimes also called fusible interfacing). Choose the type with paper backing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it as the fabric equivalent of double-sided tape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You iron it to the back of the fabric you want to put on your t-shirts, cut out the shape, peel of the backing, position it where you want and iron again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a dedicated crafter would probably then run the whole thing through the sewing machine and add decorative stitching, but for a tennis match (assuming that's why you want FEDERER) or three, your iron-on letters will be more than sturdy enough. The webbing will prevent fraying and you can wash and probably even tumble-dry the t-shirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage is, that you don't have to worry about which paint or marker will be sufficiently opaque. A few yards of fusible web won't break the bank and you or another of your group probably have some old sheets or similar around, that you can cut up for the letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2017-04-15T12:58:28.370" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T12:58:28.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2968" CreationDate="2017-04-14T22:35:44.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you live near a Joann's Fabric Store?  They have short sleeve T-shirts (including red ones) on sale 4 for $10, and 20% off fabric paints and markers.  You could either paint Federer in freehand (the tubes of paint have applicator tops) or make stencils out of cardboard and then paint.  Not sure what you mean by &quot;different alphabets.&quot; Do you mean different fonts?  In any case, same procedure.  Good luck, sounds like a fun group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user1798" LastEditDate="2017-04-14T23:30:45.433" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T23:30:45.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-15T13:46:15.197" Score="6" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am in bed with the lights out, I see a stream of beautiful imagery across my mind's eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to eventually develop the skills to reproduce this imagery as art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a visual diary next to my bed, and I write down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;subject&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;colors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;details about the composition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when it comes to visually reproducing what I see in my mind's eye onto paper, I can't seem to get it down onto paper in very good form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the gist of what I see, but it's the finer details that I struggle with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve on my visual diary, and what are some best practices for visual diaries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2017-04-15T21:41:36.183" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T01:59:46.827" Title="How can I improve my visual diary?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2972" CreationDate="2017-04-15T21:36:13.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are running into trouble turning words into pictures then add a &quot;scribble&quot; to your notes as well. Later, after waking up and the dream imagery has gone away, you can look for the imagery you describe from your text within the lines of the scribbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of the scribble as a thumbnail sketch of what you think your mind's eye had seen.  Not what you see with your eyes but what your mind had dreamt up moments before while asleep and dreaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The processes is called &lt;em&gt;&quot;Surrealist Automatism&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surrealist Automatism, also known as automatic drawing, is a processes where the artist suppresses conscious control over the drawing process and allows the subconscious to freely take over. The arm is given free control over the drawing instrument. Normally this is extremely hard to do but seeing how you are looking to try this moments after waking it should make the processes easier for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2017-04-15T21:36:13.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2981" CreationDate="2017-04-16T16:23:53.037" Score="0" ViewCount="1097" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know Irezumi are Japanese tattoos. I really like them but I'm not interested in the tattoo part but in the drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to read and see some art book about this style of drawings but I don't know what I should search for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2017-04-25T19:24:42.433" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T19:24:42.433" Title="Art books about Irezumi drawings?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-04-27T06:10:17.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-17T20:16:51.457" Score="3" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;So today I made a metal foundry with a 2/4 plaster 1/4 sand and 1/4 water mix and I put a glass jar in the middle of it to create room. But now the glass jar is stuck and I don't want to break it. Any ideas to get it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1727" LastEditorUserId="1727" LastEditDate="2017-04-17T22:09:39.197" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T09:02:50.873" Title="How do I get a glass jar out of refractory plaster?" Tags="|glass|metalworking|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2961" CreationDate="2017-04-17T22:58:04.147" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend buying a pair of calipers and taking the measurements yourself. If you are making modifications and parts yourself the calipers will be a welcome addition to your tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1954" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T22:58:04.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2884" CreationDate="2017-04-18T01:18:08.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 3' by 2' image the quickest way that is fairly cheap is to buy an art projector. You can find them online from $10 - $70 and at Michaels or Walmart. Then project the image onto some poster board. If you want to keep the colors you need 2 stencils. Trace the black areas on to one poster board and the red on another. You don't have to trace every dot and will have to leave some of the dots out at first. Later when you spray paint some of the dots will come back from over spray. As you are tracing mark the areas of color so you only cut out what you should. Use an Exacto knife to cut out the pieces from the poster board. Remember to keep inner parts connected with a thin bridge of paper or they will fall out. You can connect them back in with tooth picks if you mess up. I suggest doing some small quick tracings with tracing paper first to plan these cuts. One for each color. The stencils can be used more than once so I suggest testing them on something else before you do your final draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2017-04-18T01:18:08.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2975" CreationDate="2017-04-19T11:29:39.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irezumi&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Irezumi&lt;/a&gt; itself is not an art style but rather a technique and a craft - tattooing onto skin which is traditionally done with tools originating from woodblock printmaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The esthetics and imagery you refer to originates from the very famous Japanese art style &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukiyo-e&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ukiyo-e&lt;/a&gt; which developed and rose to fame in conjunction with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodblock_printing_in_Japan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;japanese woodblock printing&lt;/a&gt; in the Edo period (17th-19th century) in Japan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Masters of the art of Ukiyo-e:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshige&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hiroshige&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hokusai&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hokusai&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yoshitoshi&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yoshitoshi&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T11:29:39.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2984" CreationDate="2017-04-19T18:20:55.960" Score="10" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at buying an embroidery machine (or more specifically my partner is). We only have one real hard requirement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The machine must be capable to accepting a pattern from our computer that we can make out of a photograph/image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure we'll need some software to convert the images, but otherwise how should we pick a machine. What are good figures of merit for a sewing and embroidery machine (And why do the prices vary so vastly from around  £300 to £10,000)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example when choosing a processor for a computer a good figure of merit for scientific computing is the number of threads multiplied by the clock speed. It doesn't have to be any fancy combination of specification, but I can't really tell the difference between the low end and the high end so I'm missing something!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1962" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-04-19T19:58:25.700" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T05:27:29.787" Title="How to pick an embroidery machine" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|embroidery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2983" CreationDate="2017-04-19T23:51:52.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't the machine selection that matters so much as the software available for a particular machine and the ability of that software to digitize a photographic image into the the correct form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sister has a couple machines with which I've assisted in the software on multiple instances. One in particular was the conversion of a photograph of a fluffy dog to an embroidery file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software supplied with the machine varied depending on the price paid. She purchased a more-deluxe version and it had the image digitizing feature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be advised that photographs are quite complex and can result in thousands of stitches of various colors. For a single needle machine it will also result in that many changes of colors of threads. Obviously, the number of thread changes will be reduced by a factor directly associated by the needle count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resolution is going to impact your job size as well. The lower resolution image will &quot;print&quot; faster, with fewer color changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aforementioned fluffy dog was reduced to black and white and became somewhat blocky, but was still recognizable as the dog of the person receiving the gift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The price differences for one machine to the next will have to do with the capacity of the computer controlled hoop, the overall speed, the additional features (wifi, display size, etc) and the number of needles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our area (USA) has many sales representatives within retail shops who are frequently happy to sell machines and talk them up a good bit. You will also find it valuable to frequent the forums specific to a machine you are considering and view the problems, questions and solutions others have posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T23:51:52.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2983" CreationDate="2017-04-20T03:31:17.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To build on rfred_dot_u's answer/comments about the complexity of transferring a photograph into an embroidery image: it might be useful to think of this problem as taking your photograph and turning it into a paint-by-numbers image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colored threads do not blend into each other, they are discrete colors (hue, shade, intensity).  From a distance they will appear more “photographic,” but up close, say looking at an embroidered shirt someone is wearing, the image will look more like paint-by-numbers.  And that analogy assumes that these machines have far more thread color capacity than they actually do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the Brother link below.  Brother has some of the best home embroidery machines available, although there are other good ones.  At least this site will familiarize you with types of embroidery machines on the market.  For example, Brother’s top tier machine, Entrepreneur® Pro PR1000e, can use up to ten thread colors (compared to most good machines that can only use 6), and can embroider from 400-1,000 stitches per minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An optional upgrade kit (PRPUGK1), includes Scanning, Color Shuffling™, Auto Density Adjustment and more.  This option kit is available as an additional purchase.  Much more detail and specs are available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brother-usa.com/homesewing/ProductList.aspx?cat=Embroidery&amp;amp;ref=mega&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.brother-usa.com/homesewing/ProductList.aspx?cat=Embroidery&amp;amp;ref=mega&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T03:31:17.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2972" CreationDate="2017-04-21T01:59:46.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;so first of all - don't worry about the final outcome :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;try to synthesize the boudnles of ideas/impressions/emotions coming. Don't describe too much. &#xA;What works for me for example is following: i rethink/review &quot;the inspiration&quot; in my head, without analysing and overthinking, but already with the intention that i want to capture somehow what came to my head in my sketchbook...&#xA;(i guess i let my unconsciouss do the hard work ;-))&#xA;It helps me avoiding this &quot;hovering with my pencil over a blank sheet of paper moment&quot;, when you almost know what you wanted to do... but not quite.&#xA;So the mental &quot;sketching&quot; beforehand would be my second advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) Try to work with simple forms. For example use shapes people are using as symbols sience agaes. Hre is what i mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jr5Cu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jr5Cu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;henry dreyfuss symbol sourcebook&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look how for example Basquiat did that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQ6bf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQ6bf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;basquiat1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdqvH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdqvH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;basquiat2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4) Might be try collage technique. Mixed with your drawings and notes. It's fast and pre-done =&gt; perfekt for echoing the streams of consciousness :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5th and most important advice - enjoy and don't get frustrated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="787" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T01:59:46.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3019" CreationDate="2017-04-21T04:37:29.007" Score="3" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the paper is cold pressed, should I assume that 300 GSM paper will have more teeth than 200 GSM paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does higher GSM mean more teeth for cold pressed paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T11:32:55.190" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T08:04:22.843" Title="Are GSM and teeth related to each other when the paper is cold-pressed?" Tags="|paper|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-22T02:15:22.747" Score="3" ViewCount="1006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to pastel drawing.  I have a few Nupastels that I purchased a few years ago.  I am interested in purchasing more of these, but I read a few posts on the web that Nupastels are not light-fast in reds and blues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether or not Nupastels are actually light-fast, in general or compared to alternate brands, and if different colors matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1973" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T21:05:10.050" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:32:13.733" Title="Light fastness in NuPastel" Tags="|drawing|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2968" CreationDate="2017-04-22T08:37:53.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make shirts, decals, signs, etc for a living. The best way to go is to buy a pack of inkjet shirts transfers (if you have an inkjet printer) If you have a laser printer look for the laser transfers. Staples, Target, Office Depot, etc. carries them. You will need an iron, and of course blank shirts. Blank shirts you can get in a multipack to save money. Make sure to follow the transfer instructions. If you need any help with the letters to print out, just let me know. Also if you go with these transfers you can add more details like a picture or logo. Again, if you need help I will help you out. Free of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1974" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T08:37:53.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2951" CreationDate="2017-04-22T14:36:19.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter has Cerebral Palsy and writes quite well thanks to a few tricks she learned from an Occupational Therapist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a fat pencil or you can get a plastic sleeve that goes over a pencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a soft pencil lead available in many stores, especially art stores.  I recommend HB, or 2B.  It is easier to control a soft pencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rest your forearm on a table when writing, not just the palm of your hand for better control.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works for anyone, not just folks with physical issues.  Now that I am getting older, this works for me, too. Once your brain gets the message, these tricks become less important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1973" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T22:31:54.287" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T22:31:54.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2951" CreationDate="2017-04-22T17:56:25.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old practice, practice and practice some more, practice makes perfect.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Different schools will teach different methods of holding the pencil or pen, and how to hold your hand. Those last two have to work together, if you alter one without altering the other your writing may suffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still remember what your teacher at school have told you, keep doing that. Improve on it by doing it often and for some time each day. Writing for half an hour each day will do much more for your writing than even the best advice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get the writing instruction book or exercise book your school used, so you go back to what you were taught when you were learning to write, specially the level when you were 10 year old or so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not remember what you were taught in school, you might look for a primary school teacher in your area to freshen up your mind.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or get instructions in calligraphy, but in person rather than online, so your teacher can correct your position as well as tell your what you are supposed to do. And do go for a simple style of writing which feels natural to you rather than the more intricate styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T17:56:25.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-23T16:06:10.230" Score="5" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember when I was in school and the teacher gave us just newspaper. We cut words from it and decorated our mug or plate. I don't remember how we glued or adhered to the plate or mug so it was permanent.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Do  you know a way how to fix pieces of (news)paper to a white mug or plate, so it is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;permanent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-toxic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;food-safe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not have to be newspaper specifically, any common household paper (or alternative materials) should work for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1980" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-23T08:18:10.890" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T08:18:10.890" Title="How can I decorate on a mug or plate with paper?" Tags="|paper|adhesives|ceramics|food-safe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2997" CreationDate="2017-04-23T20:21:18.370" Score="6" ViewCount="3950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old stuffed animal, that's eyes are quite rubbed off. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQz4x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQz4x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;animal&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;What kind of paint is suited to repaint them and won't wear off fast? I guess acrylic paint or a black marker are not ideal... do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: it is my animal I have since my childhood. Ofc I don't lick it and there is no child in the house, but it gets cuddled at night, so it is in contact with human skin. Additionally, it is washed very rarely (once every few years) by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1070" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:46:10.657" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T17:46:10.657" Title="Repaint eyes of a stuffed animal" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2996" CreationDate="2017-04-23T22:11:15.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the best thing is the acrylic paint uses for plastic models followed by a couple of coats of gloss acrylic varnish. This will be pretty durable and should give a good result. They paint system sold by Games Workshop is pretty good quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to thoroughly clean the surface before applying the paint alcohol is probably the best thing for this. It will also help of you scuff up the surface with wire wool although this does mean that you will probably need to paint the white parts as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to mask of the fur around the eyes (assuming they aren't removable) you could do this with a piece of thin plastic cut from a drink bottle, food packaging or similar, Cut a large disk and cut a slit in it so you can slip it behind the eye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T22:11:15.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3002" CreationDate="2017-04-24T13:46:02.800" Score="9" ViewCount="18317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an HB pencil, very light, to sketch before drawing with ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Staedtler ink pen and Staedtler plastic eraser ( whit rectangular with blu paper around )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that when i erase the pencil under the ink, the ink seems to fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using the wrong eraser or is the ink quality that fade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T13:25:54.237" Title="How to erase pencil under ink?" Tags="|drawing|ink|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2017-04-24T17:10:18.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a flat carpenters pencil.  They are HB and are thin one way and thick the other way.  They are cheap, won't break in your pocket, and can be easily sharpened with a reasonably sharp pen knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1973" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T17:10:18.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="222" CreationDate="2017-04-24T17:14:53.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the Carbon pencil.  Wolff's Carbon by Royal Sovereign is the brand I have, but there are others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Carbon pencil is a combination of charcoal and graphite.  They draw smoothly, and can be smudged.  There is no grit like charcoal alone.  I use them as a layout for watercolor and pastel work, but I like to see the black outlines in my work.  The Carbon pencil is easily erased with a putty eraser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;dc &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1973" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T17:14:53.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2017-04-24T18:14:45.810" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's just how erasing works, for pencils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Erasers don't really just pick up pencil marks. They work by abrading away a thin layer of the paper, to which the pencil medium (generally graphite) has adhered. The abrasion is a sort of side effect, as the real intent is to disturb the bonds of the graphite to the paper (or cellulose) and allow the erasers to bind instead. Cheaper erasers are less binding, so work more on abrasion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pencil mark is below the ink mark, then removing such a layer of paper will remove a layer with ink on it, as well. The same activity that allows the graphite to bind to the eraser also picks up the ink particles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ink fades, but doesn't vanish, because the nature of the ink means it penetrates further into the paper, rather than just the topmost layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution would be to apply only a basic layer of ink above the pencil, leaving you the opportunity to reapply the ink after erasure. However, if you're not dealing with completely opaque inks then layering this way may affect your end color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to not erase at all, and instead use a light box start out your inked worked on a completely new sheet of paper. (There are also some transferring techniques, where you could convert the pencil sketch to and underlay in ink, but I'm not versed in them enough  to explain, and you could still run into opacity issues with non opaque inks). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T01:12:24.273" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T01:12:24.273" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2017-04-24T19:46:28.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First make sure the eraser is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; abrading the paper, by working a small area several times and then inspecting it carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ink is made from pigment particles, some particles must be loose and able to be picked up in the same manner as the pencil marks.  So, what kind of ink is it?  Traditional &lt;em&gt;India Ink&lt;/em&gt; is lampblack with a little shellac added as well.  A water based ink without a binder may dry back with more particles than are directly stuck to the paper fibers.  There will be different behavior with smaller particle size and dye based inks.  In particular, ink that’s safe for fountain pens will have no binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, try different inks, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also see what’s happening using a kid's microscope or a pocket microscope tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T19:46:28.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3510" CreationDate="2017-04-25T09:12:03.487" Score="4" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to learn painting by mimicking the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/john-worsley-british-1919-2000-the-whisper-4331232-details.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adaption&lt;/a&gt; of The Whisper of Glocken by John Worsley. I just love it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just need to know which techniques does he used there. The link above and the video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=795C7PlyLSk&amp;amp;list=PLBbtRJfuzA0ZGowZBGjAWZnl-nefW1UiF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; (Episode 04, 02:19) describes the artwork as crayon, pen and gouache. But which parts are done with which techniques?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastEditorUserId="1997" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T10:32:54.107" LastActivityDate="2017-09-30T21:39:18.567" Title="The Whisper of Glocken by John Worsley: which painting technique is it?" Tags="|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2874" CreationDate="2017-04-25T09:34:34.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried this craft and it came out really well. I used a small round cardboard piece as the base. And then used hot glue gun for arranging the shells in the desired shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MGJ1x.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MGJ1x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Colorful Flowers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1986" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-04-25T11:42:58.577" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T11:42:58.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-25T11:17:08.450" Score="5" ViewCount="13699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if is possible to print a digital drawing, just the outline, on watercolor paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to do it to test different watercolor result on the same drawing without redraw the same subject and mixing digital drawing with watercolor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum paper size is A4 format. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if ink jet or laser could get a better result more similar to ink and witch one is water-resistant &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T16:15:01.190" Title="Print drawing on water color paper, is it possible?" Tags="|watercolor|ink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3007" CreationDate="2017-04-25T12:21:35.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laser printer toner is water resistant -- more so than most paper.  But the toner doesn't necessarily stick very well to papers other than office paper and specially coated materials. Toner can also look rather shiny.  So this could be a good option for your tests of different effects, but less so for the mixed digital/watercolour pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inkjets have the advantage of using &lt;em&gt;ink&lt;/em&gt; which will look much more like the ink you'd expect especially on watercolour paper.  Some are water resistant, some aren't. I've got an epson that's over 10 years old now; the ink for that doesn't run on normal paper (though it does a little on photo paper).  There's a very slight solvent smell as the print comes out.  Printers I've used in the past have varied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to test on any printer you have in mind.  I suggest that you test on office paper using only the inks you want to use for your project -- probably just black, which would be a good thing as there should be fewer components to run (be sure to print using &quot;black ink only&quot; or a similar option; some printers use black and the coloured inks to produce black. You'll have to further test the printing on your watercolour paper, trying different paper options in the printer software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to &lt;em&gt;buy&lt;/em&gt; a printer to do this, at least try to get a demo print on office paper and see what happens when you wet it.  The availability of T-shirt print transfers might be a minor guide as T shirts have to be washed, but the transfers might bond the ink to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T12:21:35.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3010" CreationDate="2017-04-25T15:37:11.677" Score="7" ViewCount="2643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to bind a few paperbacks whose sheets have gone loose. Let's say I have already removed all the old glue and I have only loose sheets, with their edges trimmed. I have seen several video tutorials and the procedure is - up to a point - apparently clear to me. (I can post the link to the youtube videos if it can help).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have the glue (PVA, ph-neutral for book-binding) but I don't know where to look for the tissue that is used to bind the spine. In some tutorials it appears to be a strip of tissue (not different from a cotton t-shirt). In others they say they use &quot;Japanese tissue&quot;, which I have been unable to find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSxKh.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSxKh.png&quot; alt=&quot;bookbinding tissue&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvAFS.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvAFS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, its the tissue that is placed on the spine after gluing the pages, and sometimes before adding more glue on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am willing to bind several such paperbacks, can you suggest a material that has the desired properties (I guess resistance, ability to absorb glue and bind to it) and has a reasonable quality/price ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not asking for specific commercial products but at least to be able to know where to go to find it (hardware stores? painting stores? bookstores? drug dealers?) and what to ask for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1990" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T19:54:32.940" Title="What material to use for the spine in the binding of a paperback book?" Tags="|material-selection|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3009" CreationDate="2017-04-25T19:54:32.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used both of these when I bound my hardcover books. I am unsure if either of these are what you have pictured though&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Bookbinding cloth&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also known as book cloth or Japanese book cloth. These are paper backed materials, which make it good for applying adhesives, and usually are made special designs. I have use this for just the spine for flair and to make the material last longer (used for more books). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cheese cloth&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is easier to come by, since it is not exclusively a craft item , and works relatively well. These come in a variety of grades and the finer ones would be preferred for this task. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these should fit your criteria&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T19:54:32.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2017-04-25T20:36:58.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly what type of art you are doing. &#xA;but since you are inking over pencil I will assume possibly comic book or manga style. &#xA;If you want an easy way of getting nice inking over pencil sketches. I learned as a tattoo artist one expensive and one cheap method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The cheap way&lt;/strong&gt;: Do your pencil work then place a piece of good quality tracing paper over it and then lay down your ink. no need to even have an eraser. then photo copy or scan the inked art for a nice crisp look.&#xA;I usually run a few pieces of tracing paper over my pencil work and further refine my pencil work prior to inking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The expensive way&lt;/strong&gt;: As above do your pencil work then instead of tracing paper use a clear Mylar sheet and technical pens for the inking. you get perfect professional quality line work once you get used to drawing on plastic. then you will be inking like the pro's.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Koh-I-Noor rapidograph pens and india ink. the Mylar isn't cheap and the pens I use cost $200 for a set. but if you clean them and take care of them they will last forever or until you lose them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ow3ME.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ow3MEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this is a very old drawing I did using the expensive technique. I do digital art now so any recent work would not be a good example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1991" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T16:55:57.457" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T16:55:57.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2017-04-25T23:02:25.343" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the interesting part about painting for me. The trick for me is to simply paint and enjoy the process.  There are no wrong actions.  Everything becomes part of the painting and adds to the underpainting. It's part of the history of the piece.  As I paint abstractly and intuitively I have the luxury, if you will, at being able to turn the work upside down and starting again or continuing. I sit on my thinking chair a lot, take photos, study the work until it starts speaking to me. It starts to give me the confidence to move forward.  Top recommendation is to not worry, you can always paint over it. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1993" LastActivityDate="2017-04-25T23:02:25.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3017" CreationDate="2017-04-26T18:28:18.300" Score="6" ViewCount="71545" Body="&lt;p&gt;A week or two ago, I repainted a mirror (about 2.5ftx3ft) with some less-than-stellar quality spray paint. The paint's smell is still hanging around, and I'd really like to get rid of it. What can I use to eliminate the paint odor without damaging the mirror?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I unfortunately can't leave it outside because I live in an apartment, and I'd prefer cheaper, natural options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2017-04-27T03:15:10.987" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T06:12:16.840" Title="How can I eliminate spray paint odor?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-04-27T02:53:11.840" Score="7" ViewCount="9857" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recent question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/222/what-are-the-types-of-charcoal-pencils-and-how-do-they-differ-from-each-other&quot;&gt;What are the types of charcoal pencils and how do they differ from each other?&lt;/a&gt; had an answer that discussed the relationship of charcoal pencils and carbon. It got me doing a little research in an effort to understand the relationship for myself. It actually left me more confused than anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An answer in the aforementioned question talked about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/wolffs-carbon-pencil/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wolffs carbon pencil's&lt;/a&gt; which at least on that site are described as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carbon pencil is the perfect combination of charcoal and graphite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name carbon, for a pencil, is misleading to me since I know &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/how-can-graphite-and-diam/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;natural graphite is pure carbon&lt;/a&gt;. Should graphite pencils not just be called carbon pencils then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to read a little farther into it and found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://sibleyfineart.com/_blog/tag/graphite-v-carbon/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;page discussing different pencil compositions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Graphite or “lead” pencils:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you probably know, pencil ‘lead’ contains no actual lead, just graphite, so it is non-toxic and very stable, and graphite is a form of pure carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carbon pencils:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are usually made of a mixture of clay and lamp black, but are sometimes blended with charcoal or graphite depending on the darkness and manufacturer. They produce a deeper black than graphite pencils, but are smoother than charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description of carbon there is inline with the Wolff's pencil but suggests there are other materials that can be used as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible the answer is in the question here but if someone more experienced can chime in that would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are they called carbon pencils if that is basically what graphite pencils are? Is it being used as a manufacturer buzz word?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T07:00:29.883" Title="What exactly are carbon pencils?" Tags="|drawing|terminology|pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3014" CreationDate="2017-04-27T07:31:51.553" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for the smell is because of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volatile_organic_compound&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds)&lt;/a&gt; content in paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The best way to avoid breathing in paint fumes is to not have them to begin with. Most indoor and outdoor paints contain volatile organic compounds, or VOCs. These compounds are ingredients in the paint and are responsible for the odors emitted as the paint dries. Low-VOC paint is commonly available. It has less of an odor and is safer for both you and the environment. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pridepainters.ca/article/3-natural-ways-to-get-rid-of-paint-fumes.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether there are low-VOC paints in spray cans I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a cheap and environmentally friendly way to remove the fumes provided by &lt;a href=&quot;http://greenopedia.com/absorb-paint-fumes/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Greenopedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Salt, lemon and vinegar all have the power to soak up paint smells pretty quickly. And because you’re absorbing the chemicals instead of &lt;em&gt;pushing them around&lt;/em&gt; with a fan, they won’t linger in your air ducts or spread to other parts of the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is using onions, as suggested in the link above.  Cut them in half and put the halves around the house or cut them into small pieces into bowls and add some vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grab some bowls and fill them halfway with water.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a few slices of lemon and/or a quarter cup of salt to each bowl&lt;br&gt;Or instead of lemon &amp;amp; salt, fill a few bowls halfway with vinegar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place the bowls around the room and let them sit overnight or until the paint smell is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rinse the salt water or vinegar down the sink and discard lemons in the trash or compost.&lt;br&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not eat or drink them&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why you &lt;strong&gt;MUST NOT&lt;/strong&gt; eat them is because they will become toxic.  They will contain paint solvents as the salt water, vinegar and lemons will have absorbed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T07:31:51.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3014" CreationDate="2017-04-27T07:53:45.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some spray paints are much worse than others for this, but all are solvent-based. Gentle warmth will help the solvents evaporate faster, as well as ventilation to disperse the vapour.  You've said you can't leave it outside (not even a balcony?) but can you leave it inside a south-facing (assuming northern hemisphere) window that's slightly open? Shut the room door if possible to avoid the fumes getting to the rest of your apartment.  Turn off any air conditioning in that room if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a choice I suggest keeping it in a  room where you don't spend a lot of time to avoid breathing the fumes too much. So if you don't have a warm windowsill in a room you can ventilate, the bathroom is a good option.  It tends to be better ventilated than most rooms in apartments (extractor fan even if everything else is sealed up tight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been known to leave things in a parked car for solvents to dry out -- but you have to ventilate the car really well before driving it in case the fumes affect you.  So this is only really an option if you don't drive every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is a mirror, consider where reflected light/heat is going to end up -- or have the direct sunlight fall on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2018-04-17T08:59:12.297" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T08:59:12.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2989" CreationDate="2017-04-27T08:04:22.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The GSM level does not necessarily dictate the tooth of paper.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stuprint.com/news/what-does-gsm-means&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GSM stands for Grams per Square Metre&lt;/a&gt; and refers to the quality of the paper in terms of &lt;strong&gt;thickness&lt;/strong&gt;.  A 1m x 1m sheet of paper at 300 GSM will weigh 300 grams as opposed to 200 grams with 200 GSM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tooth is down to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nitramcharcoal.com/blog/understanding-paper-tooth-what-to-look-for-in-an-artist-charcoal-paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;compression method used&lt;/a&gt; to produce the paper. Cold Press paper is rougher than Hot Press and you would need to try different brands to find your desired tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have paper which has a higher tooth than desired you can follow the advice given in the second link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using the finest sandpaper at your local art store, gently sand the paper until it arrives at your desired smoothness. Be careful to pause in between vigorous sanding sessions, and check that you are not sanding a hole into your paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you probably guessed, for the opposite (to get more tooth), use sandpaper which is more coarse.  Be very careful with this thought as the tooth in patches can become uneven and you won't need to rub much for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T08:04:22.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3016" CreationDate="2017-04-27T16:20:24.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The carbon the pencil producers refer to is to be understood as an abbreviation for 'amorphous carbon' one of the three most common allotropes of Carbon (i.e. stablilized multiatomic structures of atomic carbon) The other well know allotropes are Graphite and Diamond. If you had a diamond pencil you would also have a pencil made of carbon - however a much harder carbon allotrope. Hence it will not produce any line (at least not on paper). See also the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon#Allotropes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia artikle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Carbon pencils' will contain amorphous carbon along with other ingredients to produce a deeper black without the scratchyness of pure charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T16:20:24.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2353" CreationDate="2017-04-28T15:27:00.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put, that is a rubber stamp. That particular one appears to be professionally machine-made given the fine detail in the rendered image e.g. lines in the skull and the typography this would be expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does not mean you are forced to have one made. You can get very good results making your own. Although I doubt you could make the one you pictured without specifically designed machining tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many options for this as well. A &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; simple one would be to cut a stamp from a potato. You only need a potato, ink/paint and a knife for the some simple like a star. If you are curious &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xhHCqigPpE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; would be a good primer. It even shows using cookie cutters to get more precise shapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A realistic option that is more in line with what you show in your question would be to carve your own rubber stamp. Lots of tutorials out there for this one as well. I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://dearhandmadelife.com/how-to-make-a-diy-carved-rubber-stamp/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one from dearhandmadelife.com&lt;/a&gt; to be well written and full of useful pictures of the process. I will provide a basic outline of the process here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to following tools or variations thereof:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carving rubber&lt;/strong&gt;: this is what will become the stamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carving edge Tools&lt;/strong&gt;: Search for rubber carving tools will get you the basic idea. Minimum you are looking for V-groove or U-groove edge tools. These would be better at removing material then your basic craft knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pencil and paper&lt;/strong&gt;: Your initial design will be done in this medium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mounting block&lt;/strong&gt;: Optionally a block of wood, or something similar, to mount the carved rubber to. This will make the stamping process easier and give a uniform appearance to the applied stamp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the paper and pencil to draw what you want the stamp to actually look like. No need to draw it mirrored or anything. Just exactly how you want it to appear. Fill in any space that you want to be stamped. White or blank areas will become the negative space of the stamp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graphite from the pencil should transfer easily to the carving rubber. After that it is just a matter of carving out the blank areas in your rubber deep enough to prevent ink from adhering to it during the stamping process. You will also need to carve away an area outside the stamp as well for the same reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to mount it then cut off any excess rubber and glue it to the block. Stamp all the things! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your choice of ink will depend on your applied medium. Experiment. Standard ink pads should do the trick though. Depending on your product and placement you may need to worry about things like UV and the like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-04-28T15:48:08.830" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T15:48:08.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2996" CreationDate="2017-04-30T22:25:27.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, get glass paint, more specifically black glass paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic is just like a plastic sticker and won't hold up in a washing machine for more than a couple washes, even when varnished; the basic adherence is less than a glass paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put him in a pillow case with lots of fabric conditioner. Tie it up tight, blow-dry him for 5 to 10 minutes when he comes out, paint the glass paint, brush him. Blow dry and comb him after 24 hours, that's the best you'll get besides handing him into a teddy bear hospital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2010" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-04-30T23:52:00.870" LastActivityDate="2017-04-30T23:52:00.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3027" CreationDate="2017-05-01T10:17:42.587" Score="6" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started to use watercolor and got a set of 6 Schmincke Horadam watercolors. I decided to get some more and looking at a color table I found out that colors have a lightfastness categorization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that all artist grade watercolor was at top of lightfastness grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it says &quot;The rating of lightfastness as a 5-star-system is based on blue wool scale. This allows a more precise differentiation especially in the more lightfast categories.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few colors have a 1/2 star on lightfastness scale and some new colors have &quot;Without evaluation of lightfastness.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I consider the lightfastness star when choosing color or bottom line is more than enough? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the minimum star rating I should look for to make sure it has durability over time if kept indoor and not direct sunlight exposition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.schmincke.de/fileadmin/farbkarten/colour_chart__HORADAM_watercolours.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;color table&lt;/a&gt; with lightfastness stars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-05-02T16:40:46.427" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T02:26:38.370" Title="Should I consider lightfastness scale while choosing artist grade watercolor?" Tags="|paint|watercolor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-01T21:32:16.000" Score="0" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to identify the lacing material on these sandals. The photo is of the original Luna Huarache sandal. They call it an &quot;elasticized leather&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNYZZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNYZZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Original Luna Huarache Sandal&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2015" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-11-21T15:49:58.840" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T16:04:00.450" Title="What is the &quot;elasticized leather&quot; lacing shown in this photo?" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3024" CreationDate="2017-05-02T09:00:44.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watercolor is especially susceptible to fading under light. This can be explained by the binder for watercolor and the way watercolor is used. The binder is usually a mixture that contains mostly gum arabic. Due to the usage of watercolor in thin layers the binder will not be able to coat the pigment properly leaving it exposed to light. Lightfastness should therefore definitly be considered when using watercolors. However, it depends on your aim for your drawing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only want to practice to get better at watercolor you might want to look at inexpensive watercolor pigments that might therefore lack in lightfastness. Those works can still be durable if kept in a dark environment such as a folder. Displaying paintings with colors of low lightfastness will result in quick fading (a hint at how quick the fading will appear is given in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lightfastness#Standards_and_measure_scales&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this table&lt;/a&gt;). If you still want to hang a drawing in a well lit place you can use Aquarell-fixatives to improve lightfastness. Those Aquarell-fixatives or finishes come as a spray and allow to apply a UV protective layer that also protects from dust, moisture and other bad influences. Going one step further you can also frame your image behind UV-protective glass to ensure longevity of colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you plan to display or sell your drawing (from the beginning) you should opt for the (more expensive) lighfast pigments and take the above measure in addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T09:00:44.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3032" CreationDate="2017-05-03T11:23:25.580" Score="4" ViewCount="1500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I have to use grout for my mosaics, or would filling in the gaps with thinset mortar (I am using thinset) be sufficient? What is the point of grouting if I can just use mortar to fill in the gaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2021" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T10:01:12.493" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T10:01:12.493" Title="Can I use thinset instead of grout for mosaics?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3033" CreationDate="2017-05-04T04:18:58.600" Score="4" ViewCount="9844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a gold Sharpie marker (regular Sharpie, not the oil-based ones), but it's writing almost clear.  It's not dried up, there's plenty of liquid, but the color is very thinned out and transparent rather than opaque, and shaking it doesn't seem to do anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I just get a dud, or is there some way to get this marker up and running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2023" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T14:51:01.477" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T13:36:42.180" Title="Why is my metallic Sharpie drawing thinned out and transparent lines?" Tags="|markers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-04T21:00:48.440" Score="3" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9T6FM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9T6FM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be able to just find another screw closure just like the one on the necklace, screw it in, and then I would be fine, but I haven't been able to find one.  This is a Gucci necklace, I would prefer not to have to cut off the original closure and add in ball chain.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2025" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T13:33:03.150" Title="How do I lengthen this ball chain with screw closure?" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="454" CreationDate="2017-05-05T06:40:31.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make a pom pom from net follow the steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a fan like structure from the net.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tie a string in middle of your fan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open up from all the sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2028" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T06:40:31.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3028" CreationDate="2017-05-05T11:39:28.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinset Mortar should be sufficient as a mortar &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grout&lt;/a&gt; in your project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thinset (also called thinset mortar, thinset cement, dryset mortar, or drybond mortar) is an adhesive mortar made of cement, fine sand and a water retaining agent such as an alkyl derivative of cellulose. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tiletools.com/mastic-vs-thinset-use/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(1)&lt;/a&gt; It is usually used to attach tile or stone to surfaces such as cement or concrete. It is particularly &lt;strong&gt;popular among mosaicists for outdoor applications&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://mosaicartsupply.com/how-to-use-thinset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(2)&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thinset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thinset (Wikipedia)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you &quot;use a wet toothbrush to scrub your grout joints clean as you are installing your floor (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.floorstransformed.com/choosethinset.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thinset Mortar Selection&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T11:39:28.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3029" CreationDate="2017-05-05T11:47:48.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thinness you are seeing is that your pen is dispensing more of the inks suspension medium than its pigment particles. The &quot;ink&quot; in metallic Sharpies is made up of particles suspended in a medium. It's the separation of particles from medium that is causing the &quot;transparency&quot; of your inked line. Over time, as the &quot;ink&quot; sits stationary, the heavier particles settle to the bottom and the lighter elements float to the top. Think of it as a paint can that has been sitting for a long time and needs to be stirred before use. In your case it sounds like your pen has been sitting in the same position long enough for the pigments to have separated and settled. Before using your pen try shaking it for a few minutes. The shaking with help re-mix the components and the pen will dispense the right amount of pigment suspended in medium based on the pen's design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Shake it like a Polaroid picture&quot; before use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T13:36:42.180" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T13:36:42.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3029" CreationDate="2017-05-05T18:51:55.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marketing copy on the Staples website listing for the silver metallic Sharpies reads (bold mine for emphasis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Achieve beautiful writing with a metallic sheen when you use Sharpie&amp;reg; Metallic Permanent Markers in silver. The mess-free metallic markers don't require shaking or pumping, since the free-flowing, permanent ink already resides in the fine-point tip. &lt;strong&gt;Make sure to store the silver Sharpie&amp;reg; markers tip-down when not in use.&lt;/strong&gt; Each pack includes 36 metallic pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As John stated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/3033/20&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt;, it's a matter of the pigment particles being heavier than the suspension medium. If you store the pens tip up, then the first thing to run into the tip will be suspension medium. Store them tip down, and the pigment will be closest to the point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T18:51:55.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-07T18:08:02.327" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the exact difference between a carbon pencil and a regular graphite pencil? I tried looking it up but nothing really told me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2017-05-07T18:08:02.327" Title="So what exactly is the difference between a carbon pencil and a graphite pencil?" Tags="|pencils|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-05-08T11:37:53.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3030" CreationDate="2017-05-08T13:33:03.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the photos, it looks like there is a spring ring clasp attached to the necklace. You could attach the extender to that instead, since it would just need to have a basic ring ending (easy to find). It might look funny with the screw ends hanging there, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea, if you can't find the same size barrel closure, are you ok with (possibly) permanently modifying the necklace? You could either glue or solder another clasp and/or the extender, using the screw ends as a base. Solder would be sturdiest but probably permanent. Depending on the glue you might be able to remove it later, but you still risk damaging the finish with the chemicals (particularly acetone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T13:33:03.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3043" CreationDate="2017-05-08T23:46:35.930" Score="4" ViewCount="1016" Body="&lt;p&gt;My anime-loving daughter and her friend are attempting a couple of cosplay creations for some convention in the fall. I'm a fairly competent seamstress, so have offered guidance and help with designing the clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, both girls &quot;need&quot; wigs to complete their costume. This is anime hair, it's not expected to be realistic in either color or shape -- but is this something we can expect to do ourselves? Are cosplay wigs generally handmade, or bought and then customized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T11:50:19.150" Title="Can wigs be made by hand?" Tags="|costume-design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3038" CreationDate="2017-05-09T00:42:38.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter is also an active cosplay ((anime) costume play) artist. She buys her wigs on eBay, usually for $10 or so. A quick search there on 'cosplay wig' brings up many alternatives. They tend to come from China, so order early to allow for a couple weeks shipping. She has also ordered one or two from Amazon, I think primarily for quicker delivery (same-ish product, probably more expensive). They might also be available from a costume supply store if you have one locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0RPw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n0RPw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an interesting question on what it would take to make them by hand. I'm sure in special cases (certain characters) that would be required. But so far, the dozen or so characters my daughter has developed costumes for used fairly regular costume wigs, the hair being some sort of synthetic. They always seem to be purple for some reason, but maybe that's just how I remember it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T00:42:38.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3038" CreationDate="2017-05-09T03:18:54.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind the slightly &quot;Raggedy Ann&quot; look of the finished product, yarn wigs are pretty easy and fun.  Here's how I make a yarn wig:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tie one end of the yarn to something (I use a slat in one of our&#xA;dining chairs)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the yarn around the chair (or whatever you're using) until&#xA;the &quot;wig&quot; seems big enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When it seems big enough, hold part of the wig with one hand and cut through all the strands. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tie the wig in a knot in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Voilà!!! Your yarn wig is finished.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nice followup tutorial can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://easypeasycraft.blogspot.com/2011/09/yarn-wig-tutorial.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2048" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-05-25T11:50:19.150" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T11:50:19.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3038" CreationDate="2017-05-09T19:02:27.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cosplay wigs are generally purchased and customized by hand for the character. As noted in other answers there are many online companies that provide all the wacky colors and shapes needed for anime characters. There are a host of ways to style the wigs. Curlers and a hot water dunk, Sharpie markers for color touch ups, hanks of hair added, etc. One friend had to use two wigs to get the look she needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few wig tutorials at cosplay.com and the forums there can be useful for more specific questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T19:02:27.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2664" CreationDate="2017-05-09T19:06:05.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ryan, if you're not already done...one thing that hasn't been mentioned here is a &quot;Dremel&quot; tool (that's the most popular brand name, for a handheld rotary grinder.) They're pretty inexpensive and come with multiple bits/heads for different uses (like, wood versus metal.) It's a faster, easier way to do soft wood shaping (versus carving and hand-sanding.) &#xA;When we made my sons' Pinewood Derby cars, both won for &quot;Best Design&quot;... one looked a lot like the original Batmobile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2049" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T19:06:05.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3038" CreationDate="2017-05-10T01:52:02.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You totally can make your own wigs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are cosplay wigs generally handmade, or bought and then customized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and Yes or a combination of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you need to get a certain style of wig for a character it can be hard to find that perfect wig online or at a costume shop either due to availability or budget. So making your own could be a useful skill you have in your back pocket when cosplaying or costuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but is this something we can expect to do ourselves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like many crafts it is something that requires patience and skill. You can't expect to make a magical, handsome, mysterious, captivating, bagelrific etc. wig your first try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is a &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;really brief&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; tutorial of what you can do for a basic wig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need hair off course (synthetic or otherwise). The hair will typically be assembled into wefts for the portion of the wig. Wefts are assembled &amp;quot;rows&amp;quot; of hair. The units can be sewn or glued together usually to some other material like. You might also know these as hair extensions (which coincidentally make good raw materials for custom wigs). You could make these yourself from existing wigs or &amp;quot;raw&amp;quot; hair or purchase them outright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lwcEJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lwcEJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simple wefts&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://beautybychristinelieu.com/2011/10/one-step-wefts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;beautybychristinelieu.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the overall design you might need to make other constructs, like a ball base for a pony tail or buns or something, but wefts would be a simple start. You could easily ask several questions about making wefts alone. I will move on assuming that your hair has been treated and /or processed so that it is now straightened (if you made your own wefts from fibre stock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These wefts, and other parts, will typically be assembled on a cap e.g what you will actually be wearing on your head. Caps can be commercial products specifically designed for wigs or just material that can be used for a cap base like jersey etc. The caps are important as they need to be comfortable and allow your head to breath. That and something you can sew into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a head model, preferably fake, is almost a necessity for assembly and getting a good idea of what the finished product will look like. Bear in mind, model heads are likely not the same shape and size as your own and that adjustments will need to be made to compensate for the size difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then just need to sew the wefts to the cap. Examples of in progress wigs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPOUDm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPOUDm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of sewing a weft on a cap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://cherishedcrowns.blogspot.ca/2013_08_01_archive.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cherishedcrowns.blogspot.ca&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rOo5m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rOo5m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;In progress cosplay wig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://casualtycosplay.blogspot.ca/2012/06/wig-making-from-scratch.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;casualtycosplay.blogspot.ca&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you progress you will likely need to use a combination of at least water and or heat to help form the wig into shape while also preventing damage to the hair while you work. One of the tips I read is that when sewing don't sew into the weft but into the hair as to not damage the weft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again this was a really simplified overview of a wig making process. Depending on you wig needs things can get pretty crazy but you will still be doing much of the above as your base in most cases. I hope this gives you a little incentive to consider wig making in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Continued reading&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A non extensive list of resources I saw while researching wig making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A really good primer on making your own wigs with ties into other custom wig tutorials: &lt;a href=&quot;http://casualtycosplay.blogspot.ca/2012/06/wig-making-from-scratch.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wig making from scratch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cosplay.com/photo/1079221/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wefting: Getting Started&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yMdcz_aWs0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beginners wig making on YouTube by BeautyCutright&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T01:52:02.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-12T12:49:09.273" Score="9" ViewCount="3750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to make a simple spinner treat dispenser for my Australian shepard. Basically it is plastic container with a rod/dowel suspending them in the air. Treats or food are put inside and the weight holds the bottle down. If the dog uses sufficient force the bottle will spin around and some treats will fall out. There are many different overall designs but it basically looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2bdd3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2bdd3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spinning treat dispenser&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goodshomedesign.com/diy-spinning-plastic-bottle-dog-treat-game/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;goodshomedesign.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am likely overthinking this but would like to know either way. I need to cut out circles from these bottles. Cutting the circles with something like a box cutter seems likely but that is hardly a precise tool. Theoretically I will be applying pressure to force the blade where I need to cut. If the plastic gives I will be putting in hard edges instead of cutting curves. This bothers me since hard edges might prevent the bottle from resting properly in the device, spinning around or could cause it to start prematurely tear the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize it is just plastic bottles and they can be replaced but I think this is something still worth knowing. I suppose I could melt a perfect circle into the bottle but I am not so sure about that. I could score a circle into the bottle first but I still think that might be difficult with a 2L bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I cut a relatively perfect circle out of a plastic bottle like a 2L pop bottle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T19:35:02.707" Title="How can I cut a near perfect circle out of a plastic bottle?" Tags="|tool-selection|plastic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3049" CreationDate="2017-05-12T14:28:34.610" Score="6" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both sleeve ends of a jacket end in this type of stitching, which after a decade, is starting to come apart. The jacket itself is Tyrolean, made of &lt;em&gt;loden&lt;/em&gt;, which is a type of melton wool. I don't know what the yarn used for the hem is, but the thicker one is almost certainly a wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YX1Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YX1Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Outside, mostly intact&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qusyq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qusyq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inside&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xupOb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xupOb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Deterioration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could a novice sewer like me go about replicating and fixing this by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2054" LastEditorUserId="2054" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T15:10:35.773" LastActivityDate="2017-05-24T07:36:30.663" Title="Does this type of hemming have a name, and is it fixable by hand?" Tags="|sewing|clothing|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2017-05-12T17:49:46.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to answer, I want to back up a minute, and explain a bit about how loden fabric is made. Loden is a type of felted/fulled wool fabric, which means that an original fabric is created by weaving or knitting (per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.landauprinceton.com/loden-coats/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, loden fabric is woven). Once the fabric has been created, you basically get the fabric wet and then abuse it mercilessly until the wool yarn attaches itself to its neighboring yarns, and shrinks in size. This creates a dense, fairly waterproof, hard-wearing fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fabric is what is used for the body of your jacket--however, fulled/felted wool fabric is not particularly flexible and so instead of using the felted fabric to make the piping on the edges of your sleeves, the manufacturers used fabric made by knitting the yarn that matches the jacket color in stockinette stitch (they actually used two types of yarn when knitting, matching wool and some sort of embroidery silk or cotton, but I can't really tell what the other yarn type is from this picture).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The knitted fabric was then wrapped around a cord of some sort (it looks dark brown or black in the pictures), and then sewn closed to make piping. Imagine that the inner cord is a hot dog, and the knitted fabric is the hot dog bun. The knitted bun is wrapped around the hot dog and then fastened closed at the top so that you can no longer see the hot dog at all. This piping was then sewn onto the sleeve edges (actually, this is where the hot dog analogy breaks down, unless you can imagine a very long flexible hot dog that is bendy enough to make a circle the exact diameter of the cuffs of your jacket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you will have a very difficult time finding materials that are an exact match to the sleeve that doesn't need repair, so I would recommend doing the same thing on both sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I would take a sharp pair of scissors, and cut the cuffs off of each sleeve. As long as you cut the felted fabric, the edge will remain nice and neat, because felt does not ravel. You can find some woolen fabric that you think will look good with the jacket, and create new piping for the sleeves (there are lots of good tutorials for creating piping--&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thespruce.com/create-your-own-piping-2978445&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's one&lt;/a&gt;).  Then re-sew your piping to the cuffs of the sleeves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also look for pre-made piping and sew that to the sleeve cuffs yourself. However, most pre-made piping is used for home decor, and might not hold up to laundering or look right with the jacket. You could look on a site like Etsy to find someone who makes piping out of a variety of fabrics--maybe you can find someone to make something to your specifications, so that you can use a fabric that is appropriate to your jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few other thoughts that I have about potential repairs, but I think this is going to be your best option for long term durability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited to add:  After reading @Robin L.'s response, I think she is correct that this is not a piped edge treatment, but simply knitted fabric wrapped over the edge of the sleeve.  I think that her suggestion for blanket stitching with a matching yarn is a good option (and much simpler than mine). I actually have a boiled wool jacket myself that has sleeves finished with blanket stitch.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-05-15T14:55:29.377" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T14:55:29.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3044" CreationDate="2017-05-12T19:53:29.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the plastic is quite thin, it will not hold up well to a rotary cutter such as a hole saw or similar cutter. A trammel type cutter would likely be much worse. The only way I can think to make a cutter of that type to function properly would be to create a sandwich of some sort, quite impractical in the case of a bottle. Filling the bottle with sand might provide the necessary internal support, and not damage the cutter too badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuing along that line of thought, consider to fill the bottle with clean sand and use heat in the form of a piece of pipe or tubing, as you reference in your post. The surfaces created by doing so will not likely cause additional problems with your design as shown in the photos. A rolled edge or similar result from melting the edges may provide additional rigidity and additional material to wear longer than a bare edge otherwise created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With sufficient heat, you would not have to have sand inside the bottle. For your project, even a little distortion of the hole will not invalidate the effect or operation of the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Just returned from a few experiments. The first, a hole saw on a similar bottle, perhaps slightly thicker wall than a 2L bottle was illuminating. The pilot bit went in well enough:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgxDx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgxDx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pilot bit hole&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the hole saw caught as the cut was nearly completed and had to be torn from the bottle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9R3g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9R3g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;distorted hole, torn piece&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempting the same with heat was much worse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqTjI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqTjI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these attempts would have fared better with internal support such as sand or similar granular matter. The heat might yet be the best, as the failure on this attempt was mostly due to lack of support from inside. The hole in the last picture that is &quot;around the back&quot; was a failure because I accidentally played the torch on the piece of pipe while in contact with the bottle. The flame melted more of the plastic than the pipe did, making this mistake valid only in the form of what to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T20:06:29.733" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T20:06:29.733" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-13T07:12:52.530" Score="13" ViewCount="10117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with full-body repaints for plastic dolls? I'm working on a repaint/restyle and I need to paint the doll's entire body. I'm creating a fantasy creature but acrylic paint doesn't quite stick the way I need and it doesn't work well on jointed areas of the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using nail polish and acrylic base with a sealer, but these are not permanent. This is the doll I'm working with. I'd like to preserve her mobility and keep the paint from chipping away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03ncP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03ncP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;yoga-barbie picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doll is for a child (age 10) so it will go through some wear and tear and the paint job needs to hold up. Is there a brand/type of paint that will work better than what I'm using? Or maybe a specific type of sealant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2057" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:44:54.940" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T14:30:46.047" Title="What kind of paint best adheres to doll/barbie bodies?" Tags="|paint|plastic|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3045" CreationDate="2017-05-14T06:49:17.260" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Stitching&quot; on the edge of your sleeve, is actually a strip of fabric, that was folded around the raw edge of the loden cloth, and sewn to the loden cloth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strip of fabric is called &quot;Binding&quot;. (it's not piping, because there's no cord running through it. The puffiness comes from the thickness of the boiled wool loden cloth inside it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The binding on your coat has a knit construction, making it flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to fix this coat by hand, I would find some yarn (worsted wool, cotton, or synthetic) that matches the binding (yarn comes in a great range of colors and weights) and sew it over the binding with a close-set blanket stitch. The blanket stitch creates a binding, because it wraps around the edge of the jacket. So it will cover the frayed part of the old binding. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/0a/d3/91/0ad391d598c823cf864f51ff6f30edfc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/0a/d3/91/0ad391d598c823cf864f51ff6f30edfc.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blanket stitch is easy to learn - find a youtube video. Use a heavy crewel embroidery needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fiber choice - For durability, avoid rayon. Nylon and polyester are strongest. Choose yarn or binding that is smooth/firm/tight rather than fuzzy/soft/loose, for dirt and abrasion resistance. (cuff is subject to dirt and abrasion). Avoid eyelash, chenille, and other novelty yarns. Worsted (tightly twisted) wool sheds dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Binding examples&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jute foldover braid&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewing-supplies/home-decor/decorative-accents/trims/44220/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewing-supplies/home-decor/decorative-accents/trims/44220/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foldover braid &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vintagetrims.com/collections/braid-flat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.vintagetrims.com/collections/braid-flat&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knit wool binding&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/485483369/12-wool-ribbon-126-yard-knitted-ribbon?ref=market&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.etsy.com/listing/485483369/12-wool-ribbon-126-yard-knitted-ribbon?ref=market&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worsted wool twill tape &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wmboothdraper.com/TapeLace/indexwithnav.html?tapelace.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wmboothdraper.com/TapeLace/indexwithnav.html?tapelace.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bias tape &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joann.com/wrights-x-wide-double-fold-bias-tape/prd34710.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.joann.com/wrights-x-wide-double-fold-bias-tape/prd34710.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One way to attach bias tape &lt;a href=&quot;http://sewtospeak.blogspot.com/2010/04/how-to-attach-bias-tape-with-mitered.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sewtospeak.blogspot.com/2010/04/how-to-attach-bias-tape-with-mitered.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yarn examples&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsy.com/knitting/supplies/patons-classic-wool-worsted-yarn/46556&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.craftsy.com/knitting/supplies/patons-classic-wool-worsted-yarn/46556&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Brava_Worsted_Yarn__D5420219.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Brava_Worsted_Yarn__D5420219.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastEditorUserId="2060" LastEditDate="2017-05-24T07:36:30.663" LastActivityDate="2017-05-24T07:36:30.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3044" CreationDate="2017-05-14T07:07:59.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic bottles are easy to cut with a sharp scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before cutting your circle, draw your cutting line onto the bottle with a marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you can cut with a scissors, you have to pierce the plastic with a stiletto or knife. That piercing will be messy, so pierce in the center of your marked circle. Then use the scissors to cut from the center to the marked edge of the circle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because your circle is so small, use a small scissors or manicure scissors. Cut counter-clockwise around the circle (unless you are a lefty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastEditorUserId="2060" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T19:35:02.707" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T19:35:02.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2900" CreationDate="2017-05-14T09:08:22.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with a 5-sided piece of paper (as some commenters said). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/we0V0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/we0V0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Before the first set of folds, trim the pentagon so it's kind of a 5-pointed star.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fold the corner points to the center point, like a regular fortune teller. After folding, trim this smaller pentagon into kind of a 5-pointed star.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flip over, and fold the corner points to the center point, as with a regular fortune teller.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flip over again, to see what will be your fortune teller flaps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pf5iB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pf5iB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crease the flaps and mold the shape into a fortune teller as usual. Represented by images 5 &amp;amp; 6&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using 4 fingers and a toe, tell somebody's fortune.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-05-14T20:32:59.147" LastActivityDate="2017-05-14T20:32:59.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-16T22:55:28.057" Score="6" ViewCount="1627" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does clear gesso really show as clear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a large piece of mdf board that I have spray painted black.  I'd like to use clear gesso over it to create a surface to paint with acrylics.  I also have a smaller piece of mdf board that I have painted an image on with acrylics and spray paint.  If I paint over it with clear gesso will it ruin the image or will I be able to paint over it yet still see the image below it? Is there a better alternative than clear Gesso?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1829" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T23:43:05.477" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T01:35:02.030" Title="Painting Clear Gesso Over Acrylics or Spray Paint - is clear gesso really clear?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3053" CreationDate="2017-05-17T01:35:02.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your black piece, a slightly better alternative would be black gesso, since clear gesso is slightly cloudy. Liquitex and Golden make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your smaller piece -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If want to draw on your surface and need a lot of tooth, then clear gesso will help. Clear gesso is very toothy, and too rough for some applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're afraid that your new layer of paint won't stick to the spray paint, then try matte medium, which has a little tooth. Or you could mix matte medium with clear gesso to get the properties you want. Or you could sand the slick parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your previous layer of acrylic paint should not be dissolved or washed away by the gesso or matte medium, unless it's not fully cured, or you thinned the acrylic paint with too much water. Use THIN coats of gesso or matte medium, and minimal brushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might make glossy areas less glossy, and porous areas more wet looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is slightly opaque, but not noticeably cloudy in two thin layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T01:35:02.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2751" CreationDate="2017-05-17T02:04:40.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A paint that is &quot;Rich in pigment&quot; has a higher concentration of pigment (and less white filler). A paint that is rich in crimson or ultramarine pigment has high saturation. A paint that is rich in umber or black pigment has low saturation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the term &quot;rich&quot; can't be consistently translated into the &quot;hue, saturation, value&quot; system of designating colors. Some rich colors have high saturation, and some rich colors have low saturation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastEditorUserId="2060" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T02:51:59.903" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T02:51:59.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3061" CreationDate="2017-05-17T04:58:22.830" Score="5" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this palette knife and need a new one, but I can't find one. What would this palette knife be called? Better yet, do you know who might have made it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAhSD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAhSD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Palette Knife photo 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2mOH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2mOH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Palette Knife photo 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It was a gift, and the label has well and truly worn off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2071" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T12:16:57.140" Title="What is this palette knife called, and where could I find it?" Tags="|painting|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-18T06:03:09.283" Score="3" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble getting decals to stick on action figures. Decals can be a decent alternative to painting, as they take much less skill to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I find certain edges or corners won't stay put, possibly from touching oils on my fingers, first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get those stubborn decals to stay? Is there a liquid or adhesive that would work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decals are foil-based, so they're essentially waterproof, if that matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T13:28:34.037" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T22:24:39.440" Title="Applying custom decals to plastic figures" Tags="|adhesives|plastic|decals|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3058" CreationDate="2017-05-18T22:24:39.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my scale modelling, I use Microscale Industries' Micro Set and Micro Sol which works great for clear decals.  These products increase the adhesion and slightly dissolve the decals which allows them to conform to curved surfaces better.  Once they are dry, I sand any visible decal edges very lightly with a 600 or 1200 grit sponge.  Finally, I repeatedly cover the whole model with light coats of an acrylic clear coat, building the coating up until the decal edges disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the Microscale chemicals will work with foil based decals, but the edge sanding and clear coat should help them stay where you put them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T22:24:39.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3056" CreationDate="2017-05-19T04:16:00.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Painting knives don't seem to have much in the way of naming standards for blades. Most are just numbered in a given series. Some manufacturers do manage to group styles together but the names don't carry between. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can gather the &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; generic name for that is a offset trowel/spatula knife. Offset due to the crocked handle. The tips that are closely shaped to the one you have pictured with similar contours I have seen called flame and raindrop but looking up those would only yield specific manufactures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://oakblade.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a1Enc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Flame style blades&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://oakblade.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oakblade.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diamond shaped blades are very similar but have harder edges and generally less curves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://oakblade.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lsIFm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diamond style blades&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://oakblade.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oakblade.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading one of your comments about it being &quot;leaf&quot; shaped I looked for that as well. The name is fitting but it does not look like any brands use that for their products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a tonne of searching trying to name the thing I did manage to find one manufacturer. It looks like this blade is part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rgm-art.com/n/en/category/24/new_age_line.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RGM New Age line&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rgm-art.com/n/en/category/24/new_age_line.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5RExRm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Leaf shape blade for palette knife&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rgm-art.com/n/en/category/24/new_age_line.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rgm-art.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So good news .... the answer to your question is &lt;strong&gt;it's a 3&lt;/strong&gt;. Can't really tell you where to buy them exactly but you should be able to find a seller if you look for the &quot;new age&quot; line from RGM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did manage to find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theartistsroad.net/articles/excerptundertheknife&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another ones of your knives in the wild&lt;/a&gt;. If you look at the post it is the 3rd knife from the left in the first picture. It actually looks like another knife from the New Age collection (I think No. 2?). I messaged the page owner to see if they could provide some insight as well. They will have more knowledge then I would as they actually paint with these.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Could always make your own&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knives that closely resemble what you are looking are not hard to find. You could buy a knife that has a &quot;flame&quot; blade and use a dremel to bring in the curves on the end of the blade. Some fine sanding will make the new edge a little more gentle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this would damage the finish on the metal. As you see on your knife in the picture that will happen naturally anyway and does little to the effectiveness of the tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-05-19T12:16:57.140" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T12:16:57.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2895" CreationDate="2017-05-19T10:45:15.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gerstaecker.de/Markenwelt/Kreul/KREUL-Magic-Marble-Marmorierfarbe.html?listtype=search&amp;amp;searchparam=oxartnum:43520A&amp;amp;redirected=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paint&lt;/a&gt; that is specifically made for swirl painting in a shop called Gerstaecker (in Germany). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this I didn't need any additives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U4GiXm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U4GiXm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsGzLm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsGzLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it turned out quite well. There is a certain relief structure due to different thickness of the paint, which I quite like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water based transparent finish I used didn't work so well. Maybe I should use some polish, but the finish also breaks apart very easy when scraped with a fingernail, I think it can't bind well to the acryl-based paint. I don't want to remove it entirely out of fear that I will hurt the colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, I am very happy with the result. It's the first time I did something like this and it was a lot of fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1847" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T10:45:15.690" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-19T12:06:16.987" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created some paintings which I wanted to preserve without framing them.&#xA;Is there any way to do so?&#xA;How to keep them as it is?&#xA;And for how long we can keep them as it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2079" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T22:57:18.080" Title="Is there any way to preserve oil painted canvas without framing" Tags="|painting|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3066" CreationDate="2017-05-19T12:31:54.400" Score="4" ViewCount="3385" Body="&lt;p&gt;As we discovered in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/47/what-are-the-little-pieces-of-wood-that-come-with-pre-made-canvas-for?rq=1&quot;&gt;What are the little pieces of wood that come with pre-made canvas for?&lt;/a&gt; those wood pieces are called canvas keys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the answers &lt;a href=&quot;http://painting.about.com/od/paintingforbeginners/a/canvaskeys.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;links to a site that covers installing them&lt;/a&gt;. I don't get how they are working since it states I am supposed to put them in the mitre slots of the canvas. Would that not break the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information seems to suggest that canvas keys only have a place for cheaply manufactured frames. Is there something wrong using them on more expensive frames? Do they get used on larger frames as well (ones that are more than 20ft square)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the conditions that would make you want to install canvas keys? How do you install canvas keys properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-05-19T16:00:59.590" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T21:30:07.013" Title="How do you properly install canvas keys?" Tags="|painting|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-19T12:39:09.423" Score="2" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only painted 3 paintings (at a Paint Nite). I can't imagine this would ever come up but if the canvas started to sag then I would consider installing some canvas keys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that work for all sagging canvases? I have a hard time thinking that would work for larger canvases. The canvas is just stapled to the frame so theoretically you could adjust the canvas by removing it and reinstalling it. That however seems like a bad idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this is just a matter of proper storage and display to mitigate this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are canvas keys the only option with a canvas starts to sag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T21:47:10.650" Title="If a canvas is sagging are canvas keys the only option?" Tags="|painting|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3064" CreationDate="2017-05-19T21:30:07.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Canvas keys work by expanding the mitre joints at the corners of stretcher bars (see sketch below). As the canvas keys are driven into their recessed slots on the stretcher bars the canvas, which is fastened to the stretcher bars, slowly tightens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This action &quot;depends&quot; on the mitre joint of the stretcher bars not having been nailed or stapled together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the joint is glued, nailed, stapled or rigidly fastened then installing canvas keys will not be able to do their job. Actually, as you point out, driving canvas keys into stretcher bars that have been nailed will break the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, once you nail the mitre joint closed you no longer have a stretch, you now have what is called a canvas strainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large painting canvases, ones with cross members, are more the strainer then stretcher variety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of a strainer is you have a large ridge frame onto which to fasten your canvas. Large canvases shrink quite a bit as you work with them. So a rigid strong support is required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sXJw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sXJw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T21:30:07.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3065" CreationDate="2017-05-19T21:47:10.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No there are options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to use canvas keys depends very much on having the right type of stretcher bars to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are alternatives to help tighten a sagging canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One method to help with sagging canvases is to spray the back surface of the canvas with a light spray of water. As the water evaporates the moistened canvas fibres will begin to constrict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T21:47:10.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2017-05-20T10:54:54.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do is use acrylic medium - apply it to BOTH the back of the paper and the cardboard you want to glue the paper on. Then carefully apply &amp;amp; push away bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use gloss medium - and if the result should not be glossy, seal with mat medium at the very end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2085" LastActivityDate="2017-05-20T10:54:54.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-20T14:14:30.520" Score="6" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a tool I could use as watercolor paper press?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, after my drawing dries, the paper buckles. I would like to have some tool to put paper inside like a sandwich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I need to look something made of plastic or acrylic glass possibly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-05-20T17:52:31.023" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T02:09:41.150" Title="Which tool to use as watercolor paper press" Tags="|tool-selection|preservation|watercolor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-21T18:06:23.397" Score="7" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I glued a bunch of origami to a paper lantern, like in the photo below. I plan to hang it near the kitchen. But I'm afraid that grease from cooking will ruin it. Is there a product (preferably spray-on) that would protect against grease or, at least, make the lantern cleanable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote to Krylon, Plasti Dip, and Golden Paints (about their Archival Varnish), but all informed me their products weren't suitable. Plasti Dip said that &quot;the product will soften, and eventually peel away from the surface.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can live with a slight change in color or semi-gloss look, but don't want it to yellow. I'm using an LED light bulb that gets barely warm to the touch, so I feel pretty safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyilL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyilL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My lantern looks like this&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6VmBD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6VmBD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An in-progress photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2091" LastEditorUserId="2091" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T18:23:42.797" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T10:23:59.717" Title="What spray product could protect paper against grease?" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3077" CreationDate="2017-05-22T02:02:29.940" Score="4" ViewCount="6834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to make stencils from vector art, both existing and new. I want to make them in a diversity of sizes and understand no option will be perfect for all sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some searching has shown me that I'll most likely be looking at either a laser cutter or an electronic cutting machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't know is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the trade offs between these two options, laser cutter and electronic cutting machine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And are there other major options for a home stencil maker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-07T07:00:23.453" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T07:00:23.453" Title="Laser cutter versus electronic cutting for stencil making?" Tags="|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3071" CreationDate="2017-05-22T04:19:36.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only speak about one half of information which you are looking for, but my information is very fresh...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night, I was scaling down some of my free-hand air-brush stencils using a Silhouette Cameo 3 on good-quality 80lb. card stock.  The smallest one which worked out included 180 degree curves which were exactly 1/4 of an inch wide.  Those cuts are smooth and flawless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a few which included tighter cuts such as a 3/4 inch wide horse silhouette with separate strands for hairs along the main and tail.  The legs on that little guy are clean and clearly articulated (great detail) but the tail is just a pulverized puff of macerated cardboard.  I think the cutter could have handled that tail if I were working in thin vinyl or transparency film. It was the cardboard that failed, not the cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside to the Silhouette is its cutting speed.  I filled a 12x12 inch page with 16 small stencils, each between 1-4 sq-inch and involving lots of curves and interior openings.  It took the machine about 10 minutes to cut that whole page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have access to a laser cutter, so hopefully another forum participant will give you info on that option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T04:19:36.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3080" CreationDate="2017-05-22T07:29:34.777" Score="7" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some case when I paint small areas the paint seems to go on the borders instead spread in the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually notice this effect after watercolor dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I consider these outlines mistakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm using a brush that is too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually paint on A5 paper and small subjects, like flowers, with a n.6 Kolinsky Sable brush and some times it hold too much water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViN4G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViN4G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T18:48:17.963" Title="Should I consider watercolor wash outlines mistakes?" Tags="|watercolor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3076" CreationDate="2017-05-22T07:41:18.583" Score="5" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at Winsor and Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable brush and found online the standard series and the miniature one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the difference is in the the stable or in the holding part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T18:07:07.967" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T18:07:07.967" Title="What is the difference between miniature and standard brushes?" Tags="|tool-identification|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3074" CreationDate="2017-05-22T10:44:25.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Miniature&quot; is a reference to the length of the tuft of bristles from end of the ferrule to the tip of the brush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no standard to how measurements for artist's brushes are shown. The measurement is usually a number stamped on the side of the brush handle. A company standardize their own number system but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the same number system as compared to another company's number system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handles too are not standardize to length size either. The handle can be any length for standard or miniature ... but in a company's own series of brushes the length of handle, ferrule and tuft decreases as you progress in size from standard to miniature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's things like this nonstandardization why artists spend a lot of time and money experiementing with different equipment and manufacturers to find the best tools that work for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2017-05-22T10:56:06.067" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T10:56:06.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3071" CreationDate="2017-05-22T13:45:22.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having used frequently both a Silhouette Cameo 3 and a reasonably powerful laser cutter, I can perhaps offer up both sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cameo 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quieter in operation, by a huge factor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much less expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to set up/calibrate initially&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can use common software such as Inkscape, Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw to create designs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hobby grade cutters are usually small footprint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slower in cutting &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single sheet capacity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time consuming to attach material to cutting panel and to weed off cut pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commercial grade cutters much more expensive, have tall profile (floor models) and larger footprint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited to mat size provided with hobby machine, not so limited in commercial grade units&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Laser Cutter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extremely fast, especially on thin material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flexible with regards to material choice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once configured for specific job, very fast in swap out for volume creation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Able to cut multiple layers for higher production&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not limited to cutting stencils: engraving glass, acrylic, cutting thin wood veneers, as thick as 6 mm plywood, for example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can handle much thicker material, depending on power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For RDC type controllers, a hugely supportive forum located at &lt;a href=&quot;http://rdworkslab.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RD Works Lab&lt;/a&gt;, highly recommended for pre-purchase perusal and post-purchase support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can use common software such as Inkscape, Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw to create designs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bed sizes are varied, but typically larger than hobby sized cutters &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Almost always expensive, even &quot;cheap&quot; China made models&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support equipment (water pump, chiller, exhaust fan) adds to noise level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can generate unpleasant smoke fumes (exhaust fan mandatory)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;China made models do not work &quot;out of the box&quot; and require calibration, sometimes repair (see 7 above)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-China models often require additional expense for factory technician to install/set up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;China-made models often over-rated, that is, 60 Watt model ad copy for 40-50 Watt laser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typical China-made models include &quot;challenging&quot; software for creating work, but support forums exist to ease the pain. See note 7 (plus) above for balancing point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even small models are larger than Cameo type cutters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feature options (rotary accessory, bed type, bed control) can be confusing, see note 7 (plus) above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-05-22T20:10:39.737" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T20:10:39.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-23T01:55:14.633" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an avid artist, but when I draw, I usually just sketch in pencil because it's such a simple and forgiving drawing tool. I thought I'd try drawing a colored picture, but I'm a bit lost at how to do it. My first instinct is to use colored pencils because it is a somewhat forgiving tool, but it is harder to erase than plain pencil. I also don't know if I should do a basic sketch in pencil, then erase it and go over it in colored pencil. What is the best technique? Are there special art colored pencils that would be significantly better than regular crayolas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T20:29:00.050" Title="What's the best approach to drawing a colored picture" Tags="|drawing|tool-selection|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-06-04T00:21:33.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3073" CreationDate="2017-05-23T16:37:40.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get these outlines when the pigment collects on the edges of the water you have laid down. This happens when you use a lot of water, causing the pigment to float around in the &quot;puddle&quot; and gravitate towards the edges as it dries (if you're interested in the physics, there's even a name for it: the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coffee_ring_effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;coffee ring effect&lt;/a&gt;!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid these outlines, you need to use less water when you lay down the color. You should have enough water to wet the entire area, but not so much that it puddles on the paper. You may find that you need to dilute your pigment more - &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the wash - to achieve the same color. (Note that diluting pigment is not the same as using lots of water to apply it!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will involve some amount of experimenting to get a &quot;feel&quot; for how much water is necessary. Also, consider using a smaller brush since you mention yours sometimes holds too much water. I would recommend trying different ratios on a scrap piece of paper to see what works best with your pigments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T16:37:40.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3044" CreationDate="2017-05-23T17:05:59.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kind of off the wall, but here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill the bottle with water and put it in the freezer until the water becomes solid ice. (best not put the cap on in order to allow for expansion of ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using your drill press or hand held drill make your hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T17:05:59.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3078" CreationDate="2017-05-23T20:29:00.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I also don't know if I should do a basic sketch in pencil, then erase&#xA; it and go over it in colored pencil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You absolutely can do this - try using a harder pencil like a 7H or 5H and keep your lines light so you won't have to cover up as much later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best technique?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is too broad to answer well, but I think your first instinct to try colored pencils is a good one - they are forgiving and familiar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there special art colored pencils that would be significantly better than regular crayolas?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a big difference between Crayola and the higher end colored pencils by Prismacolor, Derwent, etc. At many art supply and craft stores you can buy individual colored pencils if you'd like to see the difference without dropping a lot of money on a full set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1197" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T20:29:00.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3007" CreationDate="2017-05-25T15:46:31.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be very careful about using any type of paper that is not specifically designed for it in a laser printer.  Laser printers do not use ink, they use toner, which is adhered to the surface of the paper with a lot of heat. Paper created to be used inside an inkjet printer usually has a coating of some sort, which can actually melt inside your laser printer and ruin it. Laser printers are pretty expensive to repair after something like this happens (ask me how I know that...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although watercolor paper will not have any sort of coating on it, the toner may not adhere well to the surface of the paper, and the paper may not hold up well to the heat of a laser printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I did a quick Google search to confirm what I was telling you about the coating on inkjet paper, and ran across &lt;a href=&quot;https://pcforms.com/diy-printing-blog/can-you-use-inkjet-paper-in-a-laser-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, which talks about why inkjet paper has a coating. It says &amp;quot;Most inkjet papers have a special coating on them to help the paper absorb the right amount of ink. If the ink is allowed to sink too far into the paper, it can 'feather' or spread out, making the image look fuzzy. High quality inkjet paper is coated to keep the ink at an optimal level for crisp, clean prints from an inkjet printer.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watercolor paper is specifically supposed to be absorbent, but as stated in the quote, inkjet inks are prone to feathering on uncoated paper. I would think this feathering would be even more prominent on a paper that is designed to be absorbent. As you state in your question, you want to explore mixing digital art with watercolors--but I am not sure that watercolor paper would provide you with the crisp line quality that is often meant when someone talks about digital artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I will say that I know a lot of people who run all kinds of things through their inkjet printers--waxed paper, cloth that has been treated with starch, etc.--and it seems to do no harm to the printer itself. So, I think you are probably safe experimenting with an inkjet printer and watercolor paper.  But I would stay away from trying similar experiments with a laser printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-26T16:15:01.190" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T16:15:01.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3048" CreationDate="2017-05-26T13:37:12.770" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I would use outdoor paint. Because it stays on  if you leave the doll outside in the rain!And it stays on and pretty much NEVER chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2111" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T13:37:12.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3090" CreationDate="2017-05-26T18:38:49.310" Score="-1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me the name of this painting? It's by Leonara Carrington but I can't find the name anywhere.&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://payload120.cargocollective.com/1/1/60195/4718266/leonora%20carrington1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://payload120.cargocollective.com/1/1/60195/4718266/leonora%20carrington1.jpg&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2112" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T19:16:45.553" Title="Name of painting by Leonara Carrington" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-05-26T19:43:26.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3089" CreationDate="2017-05-26T19:16:45.553" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could only find a couple of places where it was named (&lt;a href=&quot;http://curiator.com/art/leonora-carrington/el-recital-de-los-suenos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which is pulling the information from &lt;a href=&quot;http://thingsthatquickentheheart.blogspot.fr/2011/05/leonora-carrington-dissolved-into-her.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://ccadvisualculture.blogspot.com/2015/01/surrealism.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), and they both refer to it as &quot;El recital de los sueños.&quot; But, in both of those cases the image link is broken, and I would expect to find more pictures available once I searched on the exact image name, but there weren't many, so I am not sure this information is correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a sculpture that seems related:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6map.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6map.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T19:16:45.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-26T23:26:00.897" Score="3" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best adhesive for glueing these back to back to make a double ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/embuk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2113" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T12:08:27.587" Title="best adhesive for foam" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3093" CreationDate="2017-05-27T10:34:43.200" Score="7" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually enjoy doing things my own way, as it feels more natural. I recently started to take watercolor lessons(this was probably a mistake) and my teacher said my way of sketching was wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when I start to draw a face, I usually start from the hair, then I sketch the cheeks and the chin. Finally I place down eyes, nose, etc. I use very few searching lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My teacher says that the absolute correct way it to draw a circle, and place the face with a lot of searching lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Is there an absolute drawing style I should follow? Is my style outright wrong? I can get the positions of the thing I am trying to draw perfectly with my style. Should I still change it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2115" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T14:37:43.450" Title="Should I follow a specific drawing way?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3092" CreationDate="2017-05-27T12:38:27.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends. There is not one drawing style to follow. But if a learned technique helps you accomplish your task then, sure why not. That's the point of an education. An education teaches you how to use available tools to solve problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Math, Science, History, Literature, Philosophy and Art classes are all there to educate you about what had come before and how people have worked through those problems and come to a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Education in different art styles and techniques is important because that knowledge empowers you by giving you the ability to solve problems you will encounter in your artistic pursuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are sitting in a class and learning a techique think of it as your are adding to your tool set. The tools are there to help you accomplish your goals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your goals can be accomplished by any number of application of techniques, tools and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An education teaches you about the tools available and how others have solved the same, or similar, problems to what you have in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making your art you will run into your own problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finish that work of art you will need to come up with a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An education shows you the tools and how to possibly solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your artistic goals are your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tools are there to serve you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2017-05-27T14:37:43.450" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T14:37:43.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3095" CreationDate="2017-05-27T21:56:42.580" Score="6" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the look and feel of wood, and it is structurally strong, suitable for architecture and furniture-making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to make odd shapes, different from typical woodshop cuts, it either involves more specialized tools, such as lathes and routers, or carving, which involves a lot of skill and waste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose my projects is a piece of furniture where part of it looks like tree roots, but it is a set of roots that I designed, rather than one I found. It would be very hard to make in a traditional wood shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to have a wood-like object, either from a 3-D printed master or a mold, are there materials that I could use in that way, that look and act like wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T22:57:46.507" Title="Moldable/Printable wood-like material?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3094" CreationDate="2017-05-27T22:57:46.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search of the grand ol' internet shows that most people are recommending a wood fiber filler to be added to traditional casting material such as epoxy or polyester resin. There is a PDF available showing how to combine pecan shell flour(!) with resin and post-processing in order to generate a wood grain surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My search results provided a link to an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/answers/I-am-looking-for-a-way-to-quotcastquot-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables comment/query&lt;/a&gt; with a link to the PDF noted above. I've provided the link to that page rather than the PDF, as some of the comments may also be helpful to you. The first link provided in the Instructables article is 404, dead and gone but the second one is still operational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/answers/I-am-looking-for-a-way-to-quotcastquot-wood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;document in PDF form&lt;/a&gt; is now a direct link and references a specific product, Smooth-on 320 resin, likely a product sold by the site hosting the document. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results of my search which were the most promising also referenced pecal shell flour or powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you will get wood-like appearance, but not necessarily wood-grain like appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T22:57:46.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3108" CreationDate="2017-05-28T02:08:10.103" Score="7" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;This here's the angle I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq1zH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq1zH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The face-turned-down-eyes-looking-up angle. It makes for a wide variety of expressions, from innocent to intense to creepy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's something I'd like to master, but it never looks right to me when I draw it, especially from a full front perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's something about the neck\shoulders that I'm doing wrong, but I'm clueless how to adjust it. Here is one of my attempts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Us4aL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Us4aLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My attempt at drawing.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T16:32:08.973" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T18:17:19.197" Title="What can I do to make drawing this angle easier?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-28T03:50:15.057" Score="3" ViewCount="3946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a oval, finished piece of wood, then I covered it with burlap. My issue now is which kind of glue should I use to hold my glass stones and shells on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my glue gun , this what I used to apply my burlap (along with some normal Staples). The glass pieces are the type we all see in any crafts no-show. I bought a bag of them, so you know what I'm describing. The shells are from any beach from L.A./Florida. No doubt the glass is going to be my challenge due to there weight, and being round. Roundness doesn't leave much area to attach glue or anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2118" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-05-28T12:06:01.070" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T07:43:46.837" Title="How to glue stones and shells to burlap-covered wood?" Tags="|adhesives|glass|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3097" CreationDate="2017-05-28T04:13:05.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see a reason why you wouldn't just try hot glue on these. Yes, we are talking about non-mated surfaces but that should not be an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot glue sticks are more than just the one you would find at a discount outlet. Those ones themselves are perfectly fine for basic crafts but know that they make ones more suited for other applications. An off the cuff example / non-specific example would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-hot-glue-sticks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; which are good for bonding to multiple materials or even &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hotmelt.com/products/surebonder-739-high-strength-glue-sticks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; which claim to be used in auto body work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to use these &quot;high end&quot; sticks. I was pointing them out to show that hot glue should be a contender. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Experiment!&lt;/strong&gt; Should not be too hard to grab some scrap wood and left over burlap to try some of your shells and glass to see how it will hold up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T04:13:05.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-29T15:00:51.807" Score="5" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create beautiful knife sheathes, like in the first picture below but I'm having problems with treating leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Tz43.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Tz43.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dyed leather sheath&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sewed a few simple things so far (only using fake leather and very thin and soft leather, but now I have &quot;5-5.5 oz. Natural Veg Tan Cowhide&quot; as it said on EBay. It looks like on picture below here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RmEF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RmEF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rolled vegetable tanned leather&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I have no clue at all, how to treat that kind of leather, how to soften it, how to dye it, how to &quot;wax&quot; (is it even proper word?) it, how to finish edges, how to ...anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard, that Fiebing's dyes are one of the best, you can get, so I'm thinking of buying Fiebing's Leather Dye and Fiebing's Edge Kote. Is that a proper thing for me to buy? Do I wax the leather after? If so, with what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should it be acryl, alcohol, oil based?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-05-30T16:29:50.793" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T16:32:14.553" Title="How can I treat leather with dyes and keep it protected?" Tags="|leather|dyeing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-29T21:42:38.867" Score="1" ViewCount="3625" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gluing shells onto a frame made of wood covered in varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2122" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T07:22:21.397" Title="I want to glue shells onto a mirror frame which is very old, dark wood, varnished. What glue should I use?" Tags="|adhesives|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3104" CreationDate="2017-05-30T04:06:58.970" Score="6" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W96KJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W96KJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Retro dress&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello I am trying to find a sewing pattern that has the same type of style for the chest area of this dress or just the name of the style so that I have something to go on. I'm not too worried about the skirt just the chest.&#xA;Any help would be greatly appriciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2124" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T09:13:33.783" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T09:13:33.783" Title="Trying to find a sewing pattern or style name for this style of dess" Tags="|sewing|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3103" CreationDate="2017-05-30T15:51:31.950" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A company that makes them, Lindy Bop, calls them their &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lindybopusa.com/ophelia-dark-red.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ophelia&lt;/a&gt;&quot; style dress and they have a similar one that's called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lindybopusa.com/sloane-mustard-cotton-swing-dress.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sloane&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. It's a vintage style from the 50s - &quot;Rockabilly swing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description of the bodice they use in various places include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Sweetheart neckline with ruched satin inset  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;a sweetheart neckline with turquoise ruched bust panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;sweetheart neckline with contrasting crossover ruched bust panel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google search returns a fair number of similar dresses when you search for &quot;Rockabilly dress&quot;... including the image that you posted, which is on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rockabillyclothing50s.com/product/acevog-womens-1950s-v-neck-vintage-cut-out-retro-party-cocktail-swing-dresses/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a site here&lt;/a&gt; where they describe it as &quot;ACEVOG Women’s 1950s V Neck Vintage Cut Out Retro Party Cocktail Swing Dresses&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I'm not sure there's a specific name for the style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2017-05-30T15:51:31.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-05-30T20:52:35.937" Score="2" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of preparing a pine wooden box to hold a large number of cardboard wallets for storing a card game collection, but there appears to be some oil or something like it inside the wood itself. When i have left some paper inside the box, it has gone slightly waxy and translucent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried that leaving the cardboard wallets and the cards that will go inside them will also cause some damage to them. I was considering varnishing the box myself anyway, and was wondering if anyone knew if this would prevent any damage to the contents like I've described?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box was made for me as a gift by my brother, and is made out of pine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-05-31T15:26:41.843" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T15:41:51.097" Title="Treating pine to prevent oil leaking" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3101" CreationDate="2017-05-31T11:57:24.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For simplicity and easiest results I would suggest to use a hot glue gun. Works perfectly for both materials (shells and varnished wood). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: I have already produced a very similar mirror frame together with my daughter ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2140" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T11:57:24.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3109" CreationDate="2017-06-01T14:32:43.743" Score="9" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a DIY kit of a plush doll. This is the first time I'm sewing. Per instructions, I'm using a back stitch to sew together two fleece pieces.&#xA;The problem is that the stitches are visible from the outside, and I think they should be invisible.&#xA;Did I sew it in a wrong way? Or is there something else I should have done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how it looks from the inside:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbpeD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbpeDm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inside view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from the outside:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgnN0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgnN0m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;outside view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Click on images to enlarge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2149" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T19:28:53.333" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T19:28:53.333" Title="How to make stitches invisible" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3096" CreationDate="2017-06-01T15:25:10.473" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some key differences I noticed between the reference image and your drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The relative location of the pupils. If the subject is looking up at you, the pupils should be at the top of the eyeball, so there should be more white showing at the bottom of the eye.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The relative locations of the mouth/nose/chin. Since you are viewing the face from an oblique angle, the nose and mouth should be closely spaced and near the chin. The nose line will also seem longer than when faced head-on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The position of the shoulders: in the image, her shoulders intersect at the level of her nose, about halfway up her face. In your drawing, the shoulders are at the level of the chin. Try moving them up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hair line looks good to me! At this angle you will see a lot more hair than usual, since you're viewing most of the top of the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for techniques: When drawing poses like this, I find it very helpful to sketch out a &quot;wireframe&quot; of the head. I use a roughly spherical shape for the cranium (pinched a little where the chin goes, like a rounded teardrop), then place the eyes on the equator line and the nose about 1/3 up from the chin. There are more &quot;formulas&quot; for these and other facial feature proportions you can search for if you're interested, but since your character is already stylized you can probably just eyeball the rest. (Sometimes I even use a wireframe method on the eyeballs themselves, if they are detailed enough! It helps me place and shape the eyelids as well as shade accurately.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The neck and shoulders are probably trickiest to place. Remember that the neck connects at the back of the head near your ears, so when you rotate the head downwards, it will be from that connection point. That is, you're &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; just rotating the head-sphere around its center (and keeping it in the same position relative to the shoulders), you're flopping it forward over the shoulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a very rough example of what I mean (sorry for MS paint.. limited options on my lunch break!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqwBw.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqwBw.png&quot; alt=&quot;wireframe example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial shape is black, guidelines are red, and features added afterwards are blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, I strongly recommend finding reference photos as you have done here, and trying to copy them - not tracing, just studying as you recreate it. The suggestion in the comments to attempt the pose yourself is a very good one too! Many artists (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boredpanda.com/mirror-facial-expression-disney-animator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;animators, famously&lt;/a&gt;) keep a mirror at hand so they can check how a particular expression or pose looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as always, practice makes perfect - as you draw more faces in more poses, you'll develop a better intuition of where to place features without needing to think about it as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T15:25:10.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3107" CreationDate="2017-06-01T16:48:43.643" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get the least visibility when you use the same colour of yarn as your fabric.&#xA;But as a beginner, it will be easier when the yarn stands out from the fabric, which does make for the stitches to be seen a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the blue line in the picture is the line to sew on, if so, sew on that line and not near it. The better the stitches are in one line, the less visible they will be in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember to keep the stitching tight, not drawing the fabric together but many smallish stitches where the yarn is flat on the fabric, so that when you look between the layers of the fabric, the fabric will be close together and there is no space for it to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T16:48:43.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-01T18:51:40.790" Score="1" ViewCount="1099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to make a polymer clay cover for my phone case and have been having a horrible time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The baking directions say 275 but the plastic is melting and warping the case. I want it to be strong on there, so I thought baking directly on it would help. Also with Bake &amp;amp; Bond Sculpey to hold it to the case. Any suggestions to make this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using &quot;Premo&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2153" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-06-05T12:27:11.140" LastActivityDate="2023-06-07T11:12:24.793" Title="Baking polymer clay phone case" Tags="|polymer-clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="259" CreationDate="2017-06-02T09:14:02.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After crocheting a snowflake I pin it into the desired shape onto a piece of cardboard covered in foil.&#xA;Then I use an art paintbrush to 'paint' it with a 50/50 solution of PVA glue and water. A sprinkle of glitter gives it a bit of magic.&#xA;I leave it to dry, usually overnight, and sometimes give it a bit more of a paint if I am not happy with the result.&#xA;Apply the mixture lightly or it may stick to the foil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2157" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T09:14:02.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3110" CreationDate="2017-06-02T12:44:02.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Premo is one of the stronger kinds, so you're making the right choice there. I have only recently started using premo mixed my older sculpey III and have found it can cure as low as 225, but you'll obviously have to bake longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T12:44:02.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3136" CreationDate="2017-06-02T13:24:22.683" Score="5" ViewCount="2052" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the stitches of this doll. It is sewn so that the shift from the upper fabric piece to the lower one is very smooth:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qalk7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Compare it with this kind of sewing: The shift from the two fabric pieces is salient, and looks kind of like &quot;lips&quot;, or a &quot;vally&quot;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hHsRc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd like to know is how to achieve the former sewing style with hand-sewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2149" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T12:15:21.307" Title="How to stitch together two fabric pieces without creating &quot;lips&quot;" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3105" CreationDate="2017-06-02T13:39:29.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diy.com/departments/ronseal-interior-diamond-hard-satin-interior-varnish-250ml/176035_BQ.prd?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;water-based varnish&lt;/a&gt; to seal in resin leaking from pine in a bed base I made.  I applied several coats to the whole surface, but started with a couple of coats over just the sticky areas.  Before the first coat I scraped/sanded the surface and cleaned with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't work well if it's actually &lt;em&gt;oil&lt;/em&gt; that's leaking.  Pine can be oiled, including with vegetable oil for food use.  Most varnishes, even oil-based ones, won't work too well on top of this.  You may be able to remove a lot of the oil with meths though.  Drying it in an oven may also help.  Not too hot, and not if other areas are painted or glued, or have plastic fixings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T13:39:29.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="449" CreationDate="2017-06-02T17:51:14.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no tell-tale signs that a piece will crack, but there are definitely certain things that can lead to a piece cracking when fired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Significant variation in thickness from the thickest to thinnest areas of a piece (a ballpark for this might be if the thickest area is more than twice as thick as the thinnest area). Also, cracks can propagate from thin/sharp edges, so be careful of those.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wide flat pieces tend to crack due in part to friction with the kiln shelf.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pieces that weren't compressed adequately (no visual indicator for this, though) will often get s-cracks in the bases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large or thick pieces that are dried too quickly or not completely. If a piece feels cold to the touch, then it is still evaporating water and needs to sit longer before going in the kiln. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ironically, bubbles are probably the least of your concerns, provided you don't fall into the categories I've listed above (in particular the last one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2158" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T17:51:14.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2995" CreationDate="2017-06-02T17:55:48.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not going to be able to adhere paper to any piece that will be kiln fired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate options include adding those paper clippings to fired pieces and then sealing them with some kind of varnish coating, or creating stencils or screens for screen printing your text/designs. There are places that will create custom screens if this is your desire. As for stencils, for about $300 you can buy a stencil cutter, provided you can import the images you want. You may also be able to find this service online, I've never looked so I can't say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2158" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T17:55:48.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3241" CreationDate="2017-06-03T03:09:24.110" Score="5" ViewCount="737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it easier to use acrylic paint or oil paint? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get into painting and I want to know which one has the best consistency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2159" LastEditorUserId="2313" LastEditDate="2017-08-01T11:50:06.733" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T00:26:38.013" Title="It is easier to learn to use oil paint or acrylic paint?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3117" CreationDate="2017-06-03T07:29:51.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't paint much but my sister does, and according to her, oil paint is a lot fussier and harder to work with than acrylic. Oil takes a little more patience to use, and acrylic (which I've used before) is simpler- it's the kind they market as kiddie paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for consistency, oil is on the thick side, and sort of sticky, while acrylic is more watery and slick. &#xA;Both types yield similar, but definitely not identical results so I think you should probably give both a try see which you not only prefer working with, but prefer the look of.&#xA;Perhaps you'll like both!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="879" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T07:29:51.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3138" CreationDate="2017-06-03T08:29:24.443" Score="3" ViewCount="1897" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got an Arches block of watercolor paper, parer sheets are glues together on 4 sides with a BLACK glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems a really good paper but i can't find a way to remove the black glue on the border once i take the piece of paper off the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They could use transparent glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T10:58:39.243" Title="How to remove black glue from Arches paper border?" Tags="|paper|watercolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-05T14:22:10.343" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to create my own 50th Anniversary invitations for my parents and I'm running into issues where my laser printer won't accept the card stock I got. It said it would, but I've tried and tried and it jam's every time.  SO....my option is to print out on regular paper then glue to the card stock. Question....how can I make the paper stick to the card stock without wrinkles? I read some of other posts and they said to use the spray adhesive glue.  Would that still be the ok and work great for this? I have 100 invitations I'm mailing out. The rest of invites are being done via Facebook, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2172" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T18:39:13.377" Title="Making 50th Anniversary Invitations - Card Stock won't work in printer" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3117" CreationDate="2017-06-06T16:51:26.817" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil paint dries slowly and mixes well on canvas (A thin paint will stick to a thick paint). It also adds texture but shows brush strokes. You are going to want to work in a ventilated area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic dries very quickly and dries flat, diminishing brush stroke visibility. Once dried it remains flexible and can be painted over quite easily. When wet it is soluble to water but becomes insoluble once dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend acrylic as an introduction as it is easier to work with and is more forgiving. Another solution would be to start with water colors like gouache or aquarelle. These mediums are easier to clean and more portable, but can't be painted over like you can do with acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2165" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T16:51:26.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3351" CreationDate="2017-06-06T18:43:43.123" Score="1" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a Winsor &amp;amp; Newton watercolor set, i made a color table to test the colors. I spay the color with water as i do with schmincke ( horadam ) pans but when I tested the color was all so light, kind of the difference between student and professional color, so i double check the paper of the pans and it say Professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do new pans need a lot of time before first activation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T19:13:27.520" Title="How long should I wait for watercolor pan activation?" Tags="|watercolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3048" CreationDate="2017-06-06T19:20:00.393" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sand it, prime it, paint it with an acrylic paint and seal it with a matte acrylic sealer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2165" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T19:20:00.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2017-06-07T00:07:40.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you transfer your sketch to the &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt; of translucent paper using light grey or light tan erasable pencil you can flip the paper over, backlight it, paint, dry fully,  spray with watercolor fixative, dry and then completely erase the pencil on the back. This also leaves no pressure grooves from the pencil lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2178" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T23:15:55.697" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T23:15:55.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-08T11:02:48.917" Score="4" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this piece of &lt;a href=&quot;http://geology.com/rock-tumblers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tumbled&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.crystalvaults.com/crystal-encyclopedia/smoky-quartz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;smoky quartz&lt;/a&gt; (Silicium oxide with entrapped materials giving it its black color). I accidentally left it in my clothes and it ended up in our washing machine. The detergent left a dull residue on the stone, taking the shine away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to clean it with water and afterwards with a dry cloth to rub the residue off, but both to no avail. Could anyone advise me how to &lt;strong&gt;clean my quartz without damaging it&lt;/strong&gt; further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, the washing process may have chemically affected my specimen? The washing detergent is probably basic and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkali%E2%80%93silica_reaction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silica can react with hydroxide&lt;/a&gt;. The temperature was cold to warm (forgot the exact program that was used). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQmft.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQmft.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;smoking quartz&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Two specimens of smoky quartz. The left one is affected by the washing process.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2187" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T15:50:39.600" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T20:20:24.053" Title="How to clean smoky quartz?" Tags="|stones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3063" CreationDate="2017-06-08T20:55:44.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been mentioned in comments, oil paint takes forever to cure and the process can't be hastened. If you need to store it without risk of damage, your only options are hanging, a shelf rack or fixed in a crate/box. As for how long they can be kept unframed, the answer is forever (or as long as the painting exists). Framing does not alter canvas tension or add to frame stability. The frame is an aesthetic addition that can serve as a buffer between the painting surface and large flat surface while stored. Most risks of damage still apply to a framed piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2165" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T20:55:44.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-09T03:00:46.767" Score="4" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to attach some flag patches to my backpack but I don't want to sew or embroider them to the backpack. I saw some video about image transferred to fabric using techniques like mod podge transfer and I really like it. However, I realize this won't work for the patches that have white color background because I can't print white color to paper. Does any one know a better technique that will work with image that has white background color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2190" LastEditorUserId="2190" LastEditDate="2017-06-13T00:45:44.763" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T00:45:44.763" Title="image transferred onto black fabric?" Tags="|paint|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3133" CreationDate="2017-06-09T05:35:49.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert on this technique, but this Instructables may be of help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Iron-on-Transfers-for-T-Shirts-Tote-Bags-and-Oth/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Iron-on-Transfers-for-T-Shirts-Tote-Bags-and-Oth/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the section on making transfers for dark fabrics that seems to overcome your problem of not being able to use white in your image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iron on Transfer Sheets for Dark Fabrics&#xA;&quot;If your shirt or fabric is black, dark gray, dark blue, or another dark color, you'll want to buy iron on transfer sheets for dark fabrics.  They are thicker and have a white backing, allowing the use of white and light colors in the image or design.  The major downfall of this type of transfer paper is that with the background appearing white, you cannot have part of your image appear clear... so you must carefully cut around any letters or other design elements or have a solid background as part of your design.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, here is a YouTube video showing the technique for tranferring onto dark fabrics, with links for buying the paper.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(note: Epson also makes and sells transfer paper for dark fabrics.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xi_2X8sKifY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xi_2X8sKifY&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&quot;In this tutorial we cover the ways to use and the applications which transfer paper for dark fabrics.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources for the paper:&#xA;UK/International Store - &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/MkeowS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/MkeowS&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;USA Store - &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/S0eIFJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/S0eIFJ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user1798" LastEditDate="2017-06-09T05:53:26.773" LastActivityDate="2017-06-09T05:53:26.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3117" CreationDate="2017-06-09T07:18:28.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll have to agree with the others that acrylic is much easier to use. I've done mostly watercolor and acrylic on all my pieces, and have figured out the basic rules to get the best results. But oil, the few times I've dabbled with it, has proved to be a little more difficult. It also requires more than just water to dip it in and clean it off. In fact, you don't use water at all (except for the end process of cleaning) – you have to get oils and turpentine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T01:18:19.870" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T01:18:19.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2017-06-10T03:18:43.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first one is a machine technique known as flat lock stitching. A machine stitch found on a home sewer that could be used as an alternative would be the three part zigzag. &#xA;Many of the hand stitching techniques are being lost due to the speed of the machine stitches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stoating is a technique I have read about and is very challenging to do by hand.&#xA;Here is a link that might be of some interest on stoating: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=k15YAAAAYAAJ&amp;amp;pg=PA343#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=true&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://books.google.com/books?id=k15YAAAAYAAJ&amp;amp;pg=PA343#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=true&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1932" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T03:18:43.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3120" CreationDate="2017-06-12T10:58:39.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will have the same problem with watercolor-blocks that are glued on the edges, only that you see the remains of the glue better when the glue is black. What I usually do to remove the glue is one of the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the edges with a sharp scalpel (or another sharp knive) preferably with the help of a metal ruler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay the paper flat on a hard surface and scratch the edges (e.g. with your nails) until the glue is gone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont think there is a non-invasive way to remove the glue, as it is made for holding the paper to the block really tight - even when wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T10:58:39.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-12T11:58:14.340" Score="3" ViewCount="910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an oil painting paper block that has a nice linen finish (looks like canvas). I want to try acrylic painting on this block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there characteristics of oil painting papers that impede the use of acrylic paint? What characteristics do acrylic painting papers need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T12:04:36.073" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T12:04:36.073" Title="What are the differences between paper intended for oil painting and acrylic painting?" Tags="|paper|oil-paint|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3133" CreationDate="2017-06-12T12:56:59.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to achieve a white background would be to transfer the image on to a white piece of fabric, trim around the image, and then attach that white fabric to your backpack. Depending on the fabric you choose, you may need to hem or seal the edges from unraveling. If you do not want to sew at all, you can buy &quot;fray check&quot; products to apply around the edges. Or if it is a plastic-based backpack you could even (very carefully!) melt the edge. (This might leave it too stiff or brittle, so best to practice on a scrap first.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mention not wanting to sew or iron on the backpack itself, another option is &lt;strong&gt;fabric glue&lt;/strong&gt;! There are many formulas on the market, I would recommend looking for one marketed towards fabric or vinyl depending on the material of your backpack. (I haven't worked with backpacks like this so I won't recommend any here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T12:56:59.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3161" CreationDate="2017-06-12T21:51:49.070" Score="4" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently trying to find a particular methodology with which I can texture the environments in a computer game (stay with me here!). I'm drawn to the clean, low-frequency detailing from a game published in 1995, Delphine's &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/F6lSCQLgWqM?t=295&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fade to Black&lt;/a&gt; (have skipped to the start of the game here). On the PC this game mixed gouraud-shaded polygons for objects and characters with stark, low-resolution textures for most of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always been attracted to low-poly art in CG, and precisionist art in traditional mediums, as seen in the following examples...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaOPC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaOPC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note - hard shadows, distinct blocks of colour with gradients. There are a few games which have borrowed from this style - Ico, Team Fortress 2, Rime (among others) and I think it might work for the game I currently have in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said - the Fade to Black wall texturing seems to my eyes (despite being a low-res texture map) a little more impressionistic/abstract than Sheeler, Smart et al. Details and folds are hinted at with a simple block of dark green, rust is implied with a couple dabs of brown. In fact, there's a touch of the screaming pope to it, to my eyes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnqJp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnqJp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Francis Bacon, Screaming Pope&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously Bacon's work is way more detailed and frantic, but I can't help but think that the impressionistic, low frequency detail of the Fade To Black environment texturing has more in common with Bacon than the totally cool, remote Sheeler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: Does anybody know of a particular style of art which combines precisionism with elements of impressionism, daubs of paint, implying detail etc.? Does anybody have any examples of this that I could investigate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In truth, I'm a bit of a traditional art ignoramus, but I think this might be useful research for my project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T07:27:46.207" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T07:27:46.207" Title="What kind of art style is this?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="352" CreationDate="2017-06-12T22:57:08.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Half answer?  The nib in question in an &quot;oblique nib' vs. a straight nib in an oblique holder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the oblique nib in a straight holder less mechanical than the other, with one less joint. i.e.  one less place to provide wear and a loose connection. ( It's what I was trained with and is just physically tighter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can still find them, buy them ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2206" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T22:57:08.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3130" CreationDate="2017-06-13T20:20:24.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is residue white vinegar should remove it.  Gentle rubbing with wet Bon Ami powder also takes off combination gunk from things like fabric softener.  Laundry detergent isn't usually strongly alkaline enough to etch silicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2181" LastActivityDate="2017-06-13T20:20:24.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3147" CreationDate="2017-06-14T12:52:47.987" Score="1" ViewCount="1563" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common wisdom is to wash your fabric before sewing in the same way you plan to wash the finished project. This way any shrinkage from machine washing will happen before cutting out your pieces, and it won't shrink more after you've sewn it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along those lines, I recently read a sewing blog post about how the author was making a jacket from fabric marked &quot;dry clean only&quot;, so she took the fabric to a dry cleaner before cutting out her pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That got me thinking. What if I &lt;em&gt;didn't&lt;/em&gt; want to take my jacket to a dry cleaner? Could I just pre-wash the fabric in a machine, sew the jacket, and it'd be safe to machine wash? What would the consequences be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2023-12-31T09:32:18.453" Title="What would happen if I machine laundered dry clean only fabric before making it into a garment?" Tags="|fabric|preparation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3145" CreationDate="2017-06-14T14:57:03.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as shrinkage, you'd have to consider the fabric itself.  Would velvet or suede be as aesthetically pleasing, or would the essence of the fibre be lost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2211" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-06-14T18:29:57.733" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T18:29:57.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3145" CreationDate="2017-06-14T16:42:10.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it really depends on the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the manufacturer of the fabric states that it should be dry cleaned, that's probably a signal that they're serious about it. Silk and wool can often be hand-washed in very gentle shampoo as a way of pre-shrinking the fabric... but some fabrics simply don't tolerate washing well. They lose their look or shape when soaked in water, so even pre-washing won't do much for you. Another consideration is colorfastness... apparently some brightly-colored silks can lose their color when washed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a &lt;a href=&quot;http://drycleanersatlanta.com/2013/10/what-fabrics-can-and-cant-be-dry-cleaned/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dry cleaner's website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first determination is whether or not the fabric can be submersed in water. Fabrics such as cashmere and wool are susceptible to losing shape in full submersion and will likely shrink, so typical washing should be avoided. Another gentle fabric is silk. An extremely delicate material, silk can be hand washed; however, it should never be complete submerged nor agitated in a washing machine.  [. . . ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some fabrics may be washed, like certain chiffon, satin, and lace articles, additional care must be taken when ironing. A dry cleaning process offers a safer alternative to typical ironing, making it more effective for a wider variety of products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making a structured jacket and you want to retain the crisp lines and smooth drape, you probably don't want to machine wash your jacket as it may destroy the cut and the work you put into it. Now, if it's a casual jacket that doesn't need to look &amp;quot;neat&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;sharp&amp;quot;, your washing regimen likely won't matter but keep that in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/01/how-to-wash-fabric-before-sewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another quote&lt;/a&gt; that sort of peeved me - it's tangentially related and I thought it might be valuable here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: I was wondering, does it mean all the Big Designer Labels pre-launder all their fabric before production?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graceful Sewing&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;June 1st, 2015&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;No, they do not. That is often the only reason that garments purchased from them have to be dry cleaned. If they had preshrunk the fabric, we could toss it in the washer and it would do fine. But because they skip this step, we are left with huge dry cleaning bills so they could save a few dollars and make us think we are. Also, on clothing that is washable, you will often find the the seams are a just little gathered coming out of the dryer, or that the garment is not quite on grain like it was (that why our garments tend to look old quickly). The best way to handle these is to gently tug on each end of the seams (particularly in knit fabrics) and straighten it out while warm. The lay the garment out flat or neatly fold it without wrinkles and let it set until it cools completely. If the garment is twisted off grain, gently tug on the two shorter corners to pull it back into alignment and then proceed as above. Your clothing won’t have the advantage of custom-made (and preshrunk) does, but it will look better and last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my interpretation here is that, yes, to a degree, if the fabric is pre-washed, it may affect the final outcome's washability... so it's not &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; the fabric type that determines the washing method on store-bought clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another interesting source is on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thelaundress.com/clean-talk-blog/which-dry-clean-only-items-actually-need-to-be-dry-cleaned.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Laundress&lt;/a&gt; where they go through various fabric types and garment styles to hash out what can and can't be washed at home. The ones that relate to fabrics specifically include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wash viscose (it shrinks, often unevenly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wash polyamide blends (they grow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wash &amp;quot;structured&amp;quot; items - ties, blazers with shoulder pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wash suede &amp;amp; leather - if marked &amp;quot;not washable&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Dryclean only&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wash fur with skin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's actually not too much on this list, amusingly... so it seems that, provided you do some research on &lt;strong&gt;how&lt;/strong&gt; to wash anything else properly (&lt;strong&gt;that does not mean you can toss everything in your washer, though&lt;/strong&gt;), you should be able to avoid dry clean only clothes to a large extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T16:42:10.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-14T17:13:32.930" Score="3" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the cheapest paper for sketching, but is also really good for erasing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sketch in my free time and it's getting harder and harder for me to find a good type of paper to use. I currently am using canson XL but I'm looking for other mediums to use as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2159" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T15:51:39.223" Title="Sketching paper for amateur artist" Tags="|paper|sketching|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3145" CreationDate="2017-06-14T18:03:45.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an excellent question, and the time to ask this question is before you cut or sew or wash or dry-clean your fabric, so you are ahead of the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The first thing to keep in mind is that fabrics and garments are quite complex.&lt;/strong&gt;  We think of textiles as simple commonplace things in our everyday world, but each stage of manufacture, from fiber to yarn to fabric to dyeing and finishing and garment construction contributes its own set of physical properties (and chemical properties in the case of dyeing) to the final product.  In many cases, these properties are not evident to the naked eye, and they are interrelated with the properties from earlier stages of textile production.  Example:  even a simple 100% cotton white T shirt is a complex system: cotton fiber is an agricultural product that is harvested, cleaned and bleached and processed into fairly loose yarns (for comfort and breathability and stretch); the yarn is lubricated and knitted into a flexible stretchy fabric; the fabric is cut and sewn to maintain the stretch and comfort of a T shirt.  So where does the comfort and breathability of a cotton T shirt come from?  The answer is: 100% cotton T shirts are “engineered” for comfort and breathability at every stage of manufacture: from fiber to yarn to fabric to garment construction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Below are the primary elements going into the makeup of a textile (fabric or finished garment).&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Your question encompasses elements of both the fabric you buy in the store and your finished garment.  I’ll start by talking about finished garments, highlighting the fabric elements relevant to your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fiber Type&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e., cotton, silk, rayon, wool, polyester, etc.).&#xA;For fabrics (not garments) this is probably the most important element you need to be concerned with.  Most common fibers we wear will machine launder beautifully, e.g cotton and polyester and blends made of these.&#xA;For other fibers, for example, wool, silk, rayon, in general they can be  damaged in laundering and should either receive special care (very gentle hand washing in cool water and not machine dried) or dry cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yarn Type&lt;/strong&gt; (fibers are made into yarns before knitting or weaving).&#xA;Yarns that are very loose can easily be damaged in laundering.  They can shrink or actually fall apart. Tightly made yarns usually wash well assuming the fibers they are made from can withstand washing and drying.  A good example of the “multivariate” nature of a textile is looking at fiber type and yarn type together:&#xA;Cotton knits are more prone to shrinkage than cotton wovens - not because of the cotton fiber, which is stronger when wet than when dry, but  because of the looser knit construction.  On the other hand, wool knits are highly susceptible to shrinkage and damage in laundering, both because the wool fiber itself is very delicate and weaker in water than when dry, and the loose knit structure will allow the delicate fibers to rub against each other and felt and shrink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fabric Type&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In general, woven fabrics withstand laundering better than knits because the fibers in a woven are more “fixed” in place than in a loose knit.  Some nonwoven fabrics (e.g., wool felt) can actually fall apart in laundering, while others such as polyester “felt” (batting or interfacing) will maintain its shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dyeing and Finishing&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Fibers, yarns, fabrics, and garments are usually dyed and finished at some stage of production.  In general, the earlier in the process the dyeing occurs, i.e., at the fiber stage vs. the finished garment stage, the more durable the dye will be.  But this is hard for the end-use consumer to know, so always assume the worst (dye loss, dye transfer to other items, fading, streaking, etc.) Some finishes are temporary or water soluble like starch, while others are meant to be permanent if dry-cleaned - like mechanical &quot;polished&quot; finishes on upholstery fabric.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Embellishments and Construction Details you don't see&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;E.g. pearls and sequins, embroidery, fancy buttons, lace, etc., can be damaged by machine laundering.  These items can often be gently hand washed but not dried in a dryer.  For garments that have interfacing fabrics (stiffening in the collar or cuffs or in tailored suiting, shoulder pads, etc., these are the &quot;unseen&quot; elements of a garment that cannot withstand laundering and must be dry cleaned.  So a 100% cotton jacket may say “dry-clean only” not because of the cotton outer fabric, but because of the construction elements you can’t see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some garments are “over-labeled”&lt;/strong&gt; meaning that the item can be safely hand or machine washed even though the label states it’s dry-clean only, but going against the label is a risk if you don’t take into account all the variables that go into making fabric, and making up fabric into a garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would a manufacturer use a “dry-clean only” care label if the garment can be safely laundered?  In some cases it’s a simple case of the manufacturer protecting itself from any damage claims.  In others, it is because it can be more cost-effective for the manufacturer to have one label to sew into everything they make, and still in others, it may be because there is something about the finished garment that may not to be evident to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My advice:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is always good policy to pre-clean fabric yardage prior to construction, using the method of cleaning you plan to use after your    item is made up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the fiber content, fabric construction, etc., of the fabric you have purchased, and the construction elements of the item you want to construct, I would follow the fabric manufacturer’s instructions for pre-cleaning your fabric. It is the safest way to go to ensure that your efforts are not wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to wash a fabric labeled dry-clean only prior to cutting, I suggest you buy an extra 1/4 yard and wash that before you wash your entire yardage.  That way you can assess fiber damage, shrinkage, dye loss, etc., before you risk your entire fabric investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T18:03:45.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-15T18:01:18.797" Score="4" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was walking past an old building on Canal Street, NYC, and I saw this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GlTCl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/szfegm.png&quot; alt=&quot;peanuty patterned column&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a term for the... peanuty pattern around this column? I can't remember the address of this building, though I am pretty sure &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/240_Centre_Street&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;240 Centre Street&lt;/a&gt; has a similar pattern (can't find a picture where it's visible, unfortunately). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2214" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-06-19T20:00:00.947" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T20:00:00.947" Title="What is this decorative motif called?" Tags="|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3148" CreationDate="2017-06-16T02:15:20.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to &lt;em&gt;cheap&lt;/em&gt; paper for me to do my small- and medium-sized sketches, I've always turned to just buying reams of printer paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's generally bright white, so I see my marks well, and I like how the smoothness interacts with graphite and especially mechanical pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it lacks qualities you'll find in most sketchbook paper. No tooth, not bound, very bright (so it doesn't naturally give you midtones and using white marks for highlights isn't possible on the straight paper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T02:15:20.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3139" CreationDate="2017-06-16T18:08:37.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sure it's fine. It is undoubtedly primed with acrylic gesso; or rather, it is highly unlikely it was sized and primed in a traditional oil technique. In the old days, sizing (protecting the support--the painting surface--from the adverse effects of coming in contact with oils) and priming (painting the surface white for a brighter painting) were two separate steps. The canvas was stretched, sized with an animal glue, allowed to dry and then primed using thinned out (with turpentine) white pigment. If the painting was done on a board, gesso--a mixture of glue, chalk and white pigment--was used. Since the 1950's &lt;em&gt;acrylic&lt;/em&gt; gesso has become popular. Acrylic gesso is a polymer-based liquid which sizes and primes simultaneously. It is appropriate for both oil and acrylic supports and, because it is both cheap and easy to use, is the most likely material used to prime your oil painting block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like, you can paint in acrylics, let them dry, and then paint over them in oils. What you can never, ever do is paint in acrylics over oil paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2219" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T18:08:37.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-17T08:31:14.810" Score="9" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a project I need leaves (apple, to be precise) that have turned into their fall colors. The leaves will be pressed later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a method that creates the color change within a day or two? Or at least a partial change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about placing a branch into the fridge over night and in lukewarm water / a sunny spot during the day. But that's just a stab in the dark based on what induces the change in nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T21:14:18.430" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T21:14:18.430" Title="Artificially accelerating the discolouration of leaves" Tags="|kids-crafts|plants|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-17T23:24:00.580" Score="6" ViewCount="5351" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background story&lt;/strong&gt;: I bought a 3'x5' cotton flag and I painted it as seen in the photo. I made a mockup in photoshop and used a big T-square and pencil to sketch the shape of the numbers. They turned out super parallel, very straight, and very accurately sized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I covered the edges with painters tape and filled in the tricky white areas with painters tape also. I taped down a trash bag on the larger white areas to save time and lots of tape. I then sprayed the flag with spray paint purposed for fabrics. After I peeled off the tape I was disappointed that there were spots I thought had been sealed but paint snuck underneath the tape leaving blue spots on the flag (which I couldn't get rid off). In other places, the tape apparently didn't stick too well to the fabric so paint bled past and ruined my straight lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;: I want to make another flag, but without making these same mistakes. What should I use as a better alternative to painters tape on the edges? Wax paper? I'm open to any ideas that may help me avoid this problem next time I paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elHXa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elHXa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T00:14:59.257" Title="Painting a flag without paint bleeding" Tags="|adhesives|painting|material-selection|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2017-06-18T00:44:22.630" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best option for &quot;precision&quot; may be a craft known as batik. It involves applying melted wax onto the fabric in areas you wish to remain clear of the color currently being created. This effectively creates a stencil for the portion to be colored. Either paint or dye would then seep into the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wax is then removed/washed out and new wax applied over the recently colored areas as well as any others to reject the latest color. As with many things organic and not particularly technological, you will get some less-than-perfect lines, but very likely much cleaner than with paint and tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd known of the process since my early years (so last century) but other than admiring others' work, never explored it. Your query and my resultant searches have me astonished at the development of the craft. Rather than drop a handful of links here in the forum, I suggest that you use your favorite or perhaps your second favorite search engine for &quot;batik methods&quot; and/or &quot;batik supplies.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to pursue some of the links for my own entertainment. Another tool for the toolbox for me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T00:44:22.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2017-06-18T07:20:35.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the paint landing in the wrong place, or landing in the right place and then &quot;blotting&quot; or seeping to the wrong place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be tiny holes in the plastic bag, the paint pools on them and the cloth pulls it through by capillary action.  Try using card instead, cut it to the rough shape and use tape at the edges.  If the tape isn't stying down, try placing small weights - coins, stones - to hold it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build up the colour slowly, make multiple passes and let each one dry before doing the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trial and error, it seems.  If that's your first effort it's not so bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2223" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T07:20:35.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3160" CreationDate="2017-06-18T14:02:49.030" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done few exhibitions few years ago, then I stopped and stayed away from the art scene for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have new work that I would like to submit to galleries but they are asking for an artist biography.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should it include? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T01:12:51.013" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T01:12:51.013" Title="Exhibition preparation - What is an artist biography for someone in the early stage?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-06-23T01:12:18.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3148" CreationDate="2017-06-19T18:27:09.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For sketching newsprint is the art school standard because it's cheap and it has a bit of tooth. Printer paper is very smooth, which makes it less suitable for drawing with graphite or charcoal. The tooth is what holds the graphite and charcoal in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number 2 pencil is very hard, so you have to press firmly to make a darker mark. You should treat yourself to a range of graphite pencils; they are not very expensive. I use a 3B, a 5B, and an 8B most of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that the eraser you're using is not a grey gum eraser. Get one. They are cheap, and they are worth it. You should knead it a bit before use to soften it. These can be shaped, so they are great for erasing weird tiny bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is very common, I'm going to venture that, if not you, at least a few people who read this are artists who try to save time by turning a sketch into a finished drawing. No doubt a sketch can be very beautiful, but it's better to use your sketches as visual references for a finished drawing. If you buy semi-expensive paper, you may become worried about wasting it, and that can prevent you from sketching regularly. On the other hand, sketch pad paper doesn't look very good and is not archival. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people, myself included, don't even bother erasing everything in a sketch. I only erase something if it's visually confusing enough to keep me from finishing the sketch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often hear people bring up Caravaggio at this point. They will point out that he did not do drawings first, and preferred to work everything out on the canvas. For those reading who had this thought, I ask that you consider the difference in the mediums -- it is easy to paint over a mistake in oils, but graphite drawings are more delicate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best drawing paper for using an eraser would be something high quality, archival, and fairly thick. As I mentioned above, a graphite drawing is a fragile work of art. You don't want to be going nuts with your eraser directly on the expensive paper because too much will start to show up. But little bits here and there you can erase with a soft gum eraser, then gently sand with fine grit sandpaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the beauty of a gallery-ready graphite drawing on paper is the illusion of there only being perfect marks on otherwise pristine paper. (Depending on your style, of course. Since you use #2 and mechanical pencils, and you want to use an eraser, it seems like a fair bet you're going for work with a clean and precise look.) And there you have the reason why artists will work it out on newsprint before hand -- unless you're some kind of a savant it's impossible to get this look in the first drawing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of drawing you're doing, you might even want to experiment with cartooning a sketch onto archival paper. (Tape tracing paper to the drawing, trace it. Flip the tracing paper over to the other side, place it on a light-colored surface, and trace it again in a soft charcoal. Gently place the tracing paper in place on the archival paper, charcoal side down, and trace it again. The pressure will transfer the charcoal drawing onto the new surface.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helped! Have fun drawing. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T18:27:09.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3158" CreationDate="2017-06-19T18:46:07.257" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to answer this without knowing the specifics. But what I can say is that a gallery will look for some kind of narrative that ties your experience as an artist together. Generally you should include your most recent/most prestigious shows from the past, and then draw a connection between your former work and your current work using the time you spent not exhibiting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something you studied during the time you weren't showing work that has influenced your current work? Don't dwell on it, but do mention it. I find that art lovers have a positive view of artists with interests outside of the arts, so I'm sure you'll be able to massage some nice sounding narrative out of whatever you were doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T18:46:07.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2017-06-19T19:05:52.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're talking about isn't just one style or school, but it sounds like you may like works coming from: scuola metafisica, surrealism, American modernism, American realism, expressionism, and symbolism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as I said, the characteristics you described don't define any school of fine art in particular, so within those schools there will be works that do and don't fit what you're looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely check out Egon Schiele and Giorgio de Chirico.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T19:05:52.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3117" CreationDate="2017-06-19T19:20:27.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic is easier to start with, yes, absolutely. But unless you're allergic to turpentine I would actually say you should figure out which painters you like and what styles you want to emulate, and decide based on that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you're way into Rococo paintings. In that case, getting the look right would actually be a lot harder if you're using acrylics. Not only will the layered colors not look quite right, but the quick drying time of acrylics will make it very difficult to paint in this style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider too that there is a lot to learn about mediums in acrylics. You can use just water and paints, but you're going to have a better experience if you also at least have some retarder and GAC. I like to use self-leveling gel, and most acrylic painters agree it's good to have a selection of gloss and matt acrylic mediums in a variety of consistencies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water mixable oil paints do exist, and they do get recommended for beginning oil painters. I do /not/ recommend them for learning, because it keeps you from learning about the oil mediums. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T19:20:27.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3150" CreationDate="2017-06-19T19:57:57.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this was intended but after looking for banded column style I ran into rustification or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lookingatbuildings.org.uk/styles/classical/features/rustication.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rustication&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rustication&lt;/strong&gt; is a form of exterior ornamentation particular to buildings in the classical style. It is defined by projecting stones with sunken joints or grooves conveying an air of deliberate roughness and strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not compelling but the article goes on to describe different kinds of rustication. It is a broad definition but a specific style of rustication is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Picked-work or a simple chiselling or chipping of the stone surface to produce a general rough effect &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of the examples on the page do my connection more justice. Click to enlarge in both cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzM8E.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzM8Es.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rustication, York Water Gate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTIO1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTIO1s.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rustication, picked work&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems obvious from the photo in the question that this is not carved but it looks to be emulating picked work rustification. I can almost draw a line of symmetry down the middle of your picture but that might just be looking for a pattern that does not exist.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching for images of rustication yields similar results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T19:57:57.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-20T03:35:32.630" Score="3" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;String and rope are usually composed of a few smaller threads twirled into a larger thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5x7p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5x7p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Twisted string&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes the resultant string to tend to twist itself one direction more than the other.  In addition, when twisted in the direction opposite to the twirl, the string will unravel itself, and the result is ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there string that has been twirled in a chirality-neutral manner (i.e. the string does not have an intrinsic &quot;left/right-handedness&quot;), so that it won't unravel when twisted in either direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling &quot;chirality-neutral string&quot; and &quot;non-handed string&quot; doesn't yield any good results, but obviously I'm not getting the name correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2228" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T16:08:03.173" Title="Chirality-neutral string" Tags="|string|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3165" CreationDate="2017-06-20T04:55:43.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say what you are trying to make or do so I can't help there, but what follows addresses your question about twist in string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;String is technically a yarn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two major classes of yarn are Spun and Filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spun Yarns&lt;/strong&gt; are composed of individual fibers that are &quot;spun&quot; (by various means, manual and mechanical) together into a longitudinal structures called a yarn.  What holds the fibers together? Why doesnt the yarn just fall apart into loose fiber? The physics that hold the loose fibers together is supplied by twist.  Low-twist yarns are looser and less stable than tighter yarns - think of a loose fluffy (low-twist) yarn in a soft sweater vs. a tight (high-twist) yarn that is woven into a smooth dress shirt fabric.  Even sewing thread is technically a yarn and has twist for strength and stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filament Yarns&lt;/strong&gt; are zero-twist yarn structures.  Filament yarn is extruded (again, via various methods) and is not composed of fiber held together with twist.  Examples are synthetic monofilament like fishing line, and the monofilament that is used to weave some outdoor fabrics and furniture, and some types of indoor-outdoor carpeting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The twisted string structure you show in your question looks to be two yarns simply twisted together.  The twist in the red and black yarns holds each of them together individually, but simply twisting the two yarns together does not produce the physical cohesion between the two structures that mimics the twist imposed in a fiber spinning process. That's why ropes and braids will easily unravel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a simple explanation, it's possible to get a material science PhD in the physics of textile spinning, so there is much more info out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T04:55:43.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3154" CreationDate="2017-06-20T12:12:20.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it will work off the plant, but shortening day lengths are a cue.  Further contributors to the autumun leaf processes include &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abscission#Hormonal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ethylene&lt;/a&gt; which is produce by ripe bananas -- so that might give you something else to experiment with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T12:12:20.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3165" CreationDate="2017-06-20T15:40:56.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;(this was too long for a comment…)&#xA;Thanks for the explanation of your project.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest using a yarn called Chenille.  Chenille is not technically a “yarn” in the sense that it is not composed of fiber spun into a yarn with some level of twist as is traditional, but it serves the same purpose in that it can be knitted and crocheted into soft and fluffy items such as sweaters and scarves and baby blankets.  Chenille is an old technology/structure that in the past was used commercially to produce chenille bathrobes or bedspreads, which have been out of style for quite a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following video starts with a good explanation of what a Chenille yarn is, with a comparison to traditional yarn.  Chenille yarn is made like a pipe cleaner - short fiber is attached to a core which anchors the short fibers without requiring twist.  Chenille yarns are very fuzzy, not very strong, and the softness depends on the type of fiber used. Acrylics can be very soft and fluffy.  The drawbacks of Chenille are that it is low strength and can shed (the small fibers fall out of the structure), but for your project, it sounds like you need zero-twist more than you need strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most Chenille yarn for home use is typically large and bulky so that it can be quickly knitted or crocheted into the final product.  Michael’s is a good source for these.  The second link is a source for fine Chenille yarn which looks like it might be the size you are looking for, and is offered in several colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your project - it sounds very cool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkTtIYs38ag&amp;amp;spfreload=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkTtIYs38ag&amp;amp;spfreload=10&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yarn-paradise.com/thin-chenille-emerald-green-fnt2-50467&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.yarn-paradise.com/thin-chenille-emerald-green-fnt2-50467&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T15:40:56.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3165" CreationDate="2017-06-20T16:08:03.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @abbie has explained, yarn is created by using twist to &quot;stick&quot; short fibers (of wool, or cotton, or hemp, or linen, or...) together to make a longer strand. When you spin yarn, you have to add twist to connect all of the shorter individual fibers together into a continuous longer piece of yarn. The more twist you add, the stronger the individual strand of yarn will be. Yarn that is made from one bunch of fiber twisted together is called single-spun, or is known as &quot;singles&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spinners talk about a twist as having energy; imagine a spring--when you push down on the spring you are building up energy, and when you let go, the spring pops back up to its neutral position, releasing that energy. Single-spun yarn with a high-level of twist is called &quot;energized&quot; and will tend to want to kink up on itself, and even after it is knit or woven into a garment, it will create an uneven fabric. This bag was knit with energized singles to, as the blog author put it, &quot;create deeply textured effects.&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hexIu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hexIu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the energy created by twist that leads a cord to want to untwist--it is trying to release the built up energy by untwisting. The way that spinners deal with this is that they twist two singles together in the opposite direction of the first spin. Because you are twisting the two strands in the opposite direction from the original twist, the energy that would go towards untwisting tends to balance out. This process is called plying, and the goal is to create &quot;balanced&quot; yarn. You can tell that a yarn is balanced by letting a loop hang--if it hangs freely, without forming kinks, it is balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention in the comments that you are going to try using a braided cord, as per @whrrgarbl's suggestion. If you can't find a braided yarn that will work for you, another suggestion might be to double the strands that are hanging down--i.e. cut a piece of rope with a distance twice as long as the distance between the ceiling and the top of the lamp. Slide this cord through a hook (either on the lamp or the ceiling) and knot the other end together.  The two strands of the cord should work against each other and keep the cord from untwisting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this goes far beyond what you needed to solve your particular problem, but I wanted to add more detail to better respond to your question about &quot;chirality-neutral&quot; string, and why there really is no way to &quot;twist the yarn in a neutral manner.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T16:08:03.173" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-20T21:41:23.463" Score="4" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would really like to find another pair of trousers like these but I don't know what this fabric is called. It is heavy cotton, and there is a slanted pattern to it. In the picture, I've put a  pencil to give a sense of scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RTDMI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RTDMI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trouser fabric&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2236" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T23:54:14.380" Title="can you identify this fabric" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2017-06-20T23:54:14.380" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a woven rib twill (diagonal pattern) like denim except that in denim the twill pattern is tighter and smaller in scale and the blue yarns in the rib cover the white yarns.  In this fabric the brown and the tan yarns both show. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chinos (khakis) are also a woven twill, although tighter and not as bold as this twill, and both yarns are usually the same pale tan color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fun fact: the reason jeans look whiter over time at high-wear points like knees and hems and the edges of pockets is that as the blue yarns are rubbed away with wear and tear, the white yarns underneath begin to show through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the best way to describe this fabric when looking for another pair is that it's a heavy twill in which there are two colors in the diagonal.  Best yet is to take these with you if you shop in physical stores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, this is a nice fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T23:54:14.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2017-06-21T20:47:02.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Below is a pretty good definition of a soft shell jacket - imo I think of soft shell jackets as anything not waterproof like with a Goretex finish which could (1) be damaged by heat, and/or (2) resist application of the transfer. Most important for you, though, is that they are almost always made of synthetics which can melt from high heat (i.e., from ironing).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be a cotton/synthetic blend, no high-performance finishes, and be sure to test with an iron on a place inside the jacket that no one will see.  Good Luck!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soft-shell Jackets&lt;/strong&gt; are designed for use outdoors as part of the layering system, and can be used alone, ideal for aerobic activity in light weather conditions if they are water repellent and highly breathable, or as an insulating layer under a 'hard shell' outer jacket.&#xA;Guide To Soft-shell Jackets - GO Outdoors&#xA;www.gooutdoors.co.uk/expert-advice/softshell-jackets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&amp;amp;rls=en&amp;amp;q=what+is+the+definition+of+a+shoft+shell+jacket&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;oe=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&amp;amp;rls=en&amp;amp;q=what+is+the+definition+of+a+shoft+shell+jacket&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;oe=UTF-8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit/Additional Information:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The 741 customer reviews &amp;amp; 202 answered questions in the product information link you provide in your question for Avery iron-on transfer papers have a wealth of information and tips for using (or not using) this product. I suggest reading all of them if you haven't already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the first posting of my answer, ironing temperature is a critical element to success and requires some experimenting with the heat settings on your iron and the exact fabric/fiber type of the jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with these type of transfers is with kids'/teens' tee shirts, in 100% cotton or &quot;cotton rich&quot; blends which means mostly cotton with some low percent if polyester (under 50%), or stretch fibers (under 10%), like Lycra.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kids' tee shirts are not a big initial investment and they usually only need to get through one party or school event, and the result doesn't need to be perfect.  This is not the case with a nice jacket, so the stakes are higher for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential issues I see with your project are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are not sure what the fiber and fabric type of the jacket will be&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You won't have extra fabric to test the transfer papers on&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The jacket will likely be an investment and it could be ruined&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you like the idea of the transfer papers, and they are cool.  You might want to buy some fabric and play around with the papers and the process before working on a jacket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't able to access or use a professional apparel printer who can upload your design and print the jacket for you, you could also look into professional embroidering businesses in your area.  Commercial embroiderers can also use your uploaded design file.  A complication with these options is that you usually need to print/embroider a certain number/lot of items to make this financially feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option for you that is less costly and will still let you use the transfer papers, is to purchase some fabric at a fabric store and print on that.  Then cut the printed image out and attach it to your jacket by sewing or gluing with fabric glue.  If you try this, it would be best to buy your background fabric in the same color as the jacket, and made of  approximately the same fiber content and fabric construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a minimum, you could buy one package of the transfer papers and practice on clothing you already have that you can either live without, or live with if the printing isn't perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user1798" LastEditDate="2017-09-20T16:10:20.997" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T16:10:20.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="105" CreationDate="2017-06-22T20:11:21.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen people use a propane torch or even Mapp gas to put holes in glass. Just an fyi the Mapp gas burns much hotter and is a much quicker process, make sure you do this in a well ventilated area and do not allow the glass to cool to quickly because it will crack (so no water or fans). Remember practice makes perfect. Oh yeah make sure to buy a tip that is more centered that way you are only heating the glass where you need your hole to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T20:11:21.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3179" CreationDate="2017-06-24T07:20:17.763" Score="2" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found the following patterns online and am wondering what exactly they are called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MGEj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3MGEj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySHa4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySHa4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2251" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T12:12:56.837" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T16:22:41.313" Title="What is the name of the following kinds of patterns?" Tags="|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-24T23:29:36.133" Score="3" ViewCount="4684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am talking about the belts with stitches along its edges. I read that if I cut it to shorten it at the buckle end, the threads will come loose. What do I do to prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is a picture of the belt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFYij.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFYij.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Belt stitching&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2256" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T13:42:15.630" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:16:14.463" Title="How to cut a stitched leather belt without it unraveling?" Tags="|clothing|leather|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3176" CreationDate="2017-06-25T03:07:27.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without seeing the belt - but having an idea of what it might look like - here's an idea that might work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the buckle end of the belt is pulled through the lower part of the buckle and folded back onto itself and sewn across the edge to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To remove the buckle, carefully cut that stitching open and pull the belt through to the length you want and trim it so that the new edge hits the back of the belt at about the same place as before. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sew across to hold the belt in place.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cut threads along the edge of the belt will now be on the underneath side of the belt.  If you don't fix them in place, they will unravel and eventually show on the outside of the belt. You can use Fray Check (fabric glue found in craft or fabric stores) or superglue to glue the cut threads to the underside of the belt so they won't unravel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can also take the belt to a shoe repair place&lt;/strong&gt; to resew the cut edge, unless you have an awl (sharp hole-maker) to make new holes in the new belt edge that you can hand-sew through to fix the folded-over part to the back of the belt.  Then glue the cut thread as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the sewn edge of your belt is a thin leather&lt;/strong&gt; (&quot;boondoggle&quot;) and not thread, you can try gluing the cut stitches, but you can also have a shoe repair place sew them down when they sew across the new edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  Good for you for trying to fix the belt you like instead of just tossing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user1798" LastEditDate="2017-06-25T03:57:51.763" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T03:57:51.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3175" CreationDate="2017-06-25T06:50:30.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it would be called a tessellated pattern where a single shape is repeated without overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2017-06-25T06:50:30.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3175" CreationDate="2017-06-26T02:49:25.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mathematical term for this kind of pattern would be &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.clarku.edu/~djoyce/wallpaper/wall6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pmm wallpaper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; pattern.  There are seventeen types of repeating planar patterns, and this is one of the simplest ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The characteristics of the pattern are based on it having perpendicular symmetry axes through the centers of each of the tessellation units.  There are also 180 degree rotation symmetries about these centers, with no additional glide reflection symmetries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="221" LastEditorUserId="221" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T13:42:21.033" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T13:42:21.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-26T03:14:46.457" Score="1" ViewCount="2555" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use soda ash when tie-dying, is it safe to dump the liquid down into my septic system or will it kill off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T04:43:34.827" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T01:00:38.007" Title="Is Soda Ash used in Tie Dying septic safe?" Tags="|dye|dyeing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3189" CreationDate="2017-06-26T04:12:55.463" Score="8" ViewCount="18548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed so many people take a brand new skein of yarn, and then they create a ball of yarn. What is the purpose of doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T19:58:40.133" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T02:40:40.550" Title="Why take a skein of yarn and make it into a ball?" Tags="|yarn|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-26T04:53:05.140" Score="5" ViewCount="4932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was introduced to clear gesso the other day. I have always used white gesso, added pigment, and applied it to form the foundation layer. If I did the same thing with the clear gesso, will the foundation be more translucent layer of pigment? Will it start streaking? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="9158" LastEditDate="2020-06-16T17:47:44.073" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T17:47:44.073" Title="Clear Gesso: Does it produce a translucent foundation layer?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|canvas|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3101" CreationDate="2017-06-26T07:22:21.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. (Sorry, it's an engineer's answer.) If you want to keep the original finish with the dark wood, there might be a wax varnish stripper at the hardware store. It you don't want the original finish, I would sand it down first starting with a coarse sand paper working to fine. I would prime/paint it with a matte finish paint, and you could probably get one of those sample size tubs of paint for about $2. The matte paint or even eggshell paint would allow for better adherence. As for glue, there are several options to choose from. There is hot glue, wood glue and construction adhesive. The construction adhesive may turn colors though. Like I said though, it all depends on what you want from that original frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T07:22:21.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3070" CreationDate="2017-06-26T07:30:42.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether you have finished all of your origami work, but I was just introduced to clear gesso. With this movement of Bible journaling, one of the big problems that they were having was either the drawings bleeding through to the next page or the pages were sticking together with decoupage. They discovered that a layer of clear gesso down on the page first prevented the bleeding and staining problems. This would be a solution to use prior to starting your project though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T07:30:42.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2017-06-26T14:07:23.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/153/44&quot;&gt;CreationEdge answer&lt;/a&gt; is technically superb.  For the benefit of your sensitive side consider the diminishing light and introduce reflected color.  The edges of your shadows should not be hard if you intend to present a realistic copy of the subject.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a pencil or charcoal work, soften the edges with your finger, tissue , or preferred tool.  The darkest region will be where the shadow touches the object.  After that, lights ability to bend will alter the degree of darkness and the shadow will fade at the edges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For painting, pastel, or colored pencil, understand that the surface on which the shadow rests and the object itself will reflect some color and contribute to the hew of the shadow.  Next time your out on a sunny day stand next to an object with a distinct primary color, like an automobile, and look for the car's color reflected in the shadow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this answers, at least part of, the transparency element of your query.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2264" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-06-27T00:17:01.523" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T00:17:01.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="376" CreationDate="2017-06-26T14:29:11.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yours is an ancient question!  No doubt in my mind that our ancestors pondered this very point as they rendered charcoal artworks onto cave walls and as the earlier answers have covered most bases I'm left with this, also an ancient suggestion; the mall stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand and conceptualize, picture a broom handle on the table before you.  Now, lift up one side with your left hand.  Then rest you right arm somewhere along the handle between your left hand and the point of rest where the handle touches the table.  Keeping the handle in contact with the table and your right arm with the handle, you are now able to cover most any region by swinging the stick and sliding your arm, and at no time does you drawing hand contact your artwork.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a mall stick from the most convenient object in the studio, I often use a yard stick on edge.  Or, you could purchase a thick 3' dowel from a crafts store.  I recommend tying a padded soft cloth to the table end of the stick so that you can lightly lay one end of the stick onto the work when necessary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T14:29:11.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3148" CreationDate="2017-06-26T15:11:32.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I intend to binge sketch, I use news print and charcoal pencils.  The former is inexpensive and I divide a large pad in two by using a table saw.  The latter save money over standard charcoal because of the life.  Charcoal pencils also create less dust and can be sharpened for detail as easily as graphite and won't tear the newsprint as readily as the #2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, printer paper sketches and ideas often litter my floor and fill my wastebasket.  I cannot recall ever selling or trying to sell one, but the medium is always handy and will take that #2 without gouging and work can be completed with a pen to provide a finished look.  And since the paper is specific to computer printers, I usually create ideas for clients on printer paper and scan the work into a presentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="2265" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T15:23:25.163" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T15:23:25.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3181" CreationDate="2017-06-26T15:16:37.480" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more important to rewind into a center-pull ball of yarn if you are buying some specialty yarns that are basically a loose oval of yarn twisted into a loose figure eight - this structure is called a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hank_(textile)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hank&lt;/a&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCt2n.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCt2n.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hank of yarn both coiled and uncoiled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no need to rewind a typical commercial center-pull skein.  The work of keeping the yarn from tangling has already been done for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rewinding from a loose hank/oval of yarn is usually a two-person job: one person has both hands through the loose oval of yarn holding it open while another person rewinds the yarn into a ball. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need to rewind, it's important not to stretch or pull on the yarn, the yarn should be soft and relaxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Hand-Wind-a-Ball-of-Yarn/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructable&lt;/a&gt; is a good tutorial on rewinding from a hank, and has good pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom Line: no you do not need to rewind your yarn into a ball if you have purchased a regular commercial center-pull skein.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy your knitting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-06-26T20:02:01.163" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T20:02:01.163" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2017-06-26T16:50:10.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order for paint and even markers to be applied and not bleed the surface must be sealed.  Get a clear shellac or spray clear off the paint shelf and coat the surface lightly on both sides. The fabric will remain flexible. The mediums dry quickly and you will be able to paint on the dried surface and retain sharp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are using tape there is another step to take. After tape is laid down spray or paint the edge of the tape with your sealer of choice and it will fill the voids between the tape and the surface that your paint would have otherwise seeped into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="2265" LastEditDate="2017-06-27T18:05:26.880" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T18:05:26.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1872" CreationDate="2017-06-27T18:11:05.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat will cause water molecules to rise to the surface of the paint and then evaporate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were your paint oil based I'd say wait till the glaciers melt but a combination of heat and wind blowing across the surface will expedite drying of water based acrylic paint.  That is, of course, if the paint is not frozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-06-28T16:58:12.663" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T16:58:12.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="219" CreationDate="2017-06-27T18:23:16.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were planning to paint the above blue bird on a blossomed apple branch, I'd lightly but exactly draw the outline of the bird and branch, and then apply rubber cement to the body of the bird and branch, going right to the pencil lines. Then I'd take an air brush or similar tool to apply the back ground color. When the background is dry, peel off the rubber cement in the body of the picture then apply rubber cement to the background, right up to the image. Now paint the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using water colors, look into water color pencils, they will allow you to apply detailed accents in color and, with a little water, blend into the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-12-26T13:11:05.343" LastActivityDate="2023-12-26T13:11:05.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2017-06-27T18:37:48.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every gift, and talent is a gift, comes with suffering.  If you are a detail oriented artist then your torture, albeit an exquisite pain, requires exceptional perspective, memory, focus and dedication.  There are ultra realists who produce works in different mediums that cannot be distinguished from photographs and fantasy artists, the category I'd put your example into, who boggle the mind with detail and imagination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to sound flippant but, maybe consider using a projector and any other aid to give you an absolute detailed drawing before you apply color.  Commercial artists have been projecting since the camera came into the picture. (pun intended) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T18:37:48.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3125" CreationDate="2017-06-27T18:39:13.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good scrapbooking adhesive tape, like Elmer's CraftBond Permanent Tape (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E4006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E4006&lt;/a&gt;) will provide strong adhesion without the mess and wrinkles of glue. I recently used it to stick regular paper into a sketchbook (with thick art paper pages), and it was great. No wrinkles, no mess, and very sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2269" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T18:39:13.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1890" CreationDate="2017-06-27T19:00:52.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you would like to experience the process you wish to know about, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At your Arts &amp;amp; Crafts Store purchase:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inexpensive tubes of water color paints (primary colors blue-red-yellow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a couple of cheap sable brushes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheapest water color pad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water color pencils and a sponge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At home tack or tape one sheet of the paper to a board or table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a paper plate, put a dab of each color you bought to make your pallet and lay out your brushes and pencils if you bought them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet your sponge and saturate your paper to the point of almost causing the fibers to separate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab a glass with water for your brushes, some paper towel, and q-tips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While the paper is still wet pick up some (not a lot) of paint with the tip of a moistened sable and lightly touch the paper.  The paint will want to flow into the water and should travel some distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix your primary colors on your paper plate and continue to repeat step 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll have the idea and with effort you'll capture the wash technique&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As with all projects, stay organized and buy a water color instruction book.  this is a great venue but having a library to research at any hour is better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-06-28T16:55:41.580" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T16:55:41.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2850" CreationDate="2017-06-27T19:07:58.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wallpaper.  Thin paper could be painted on both sides, pre-torn and pasted to the plywood, then easily and gradually lifted along the tear lines for stop motion.  The paper sould be kept wet for the entire sequence or the colors will change as the water evaporates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T19:07:58.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-28T16:33:50.987" Score="5" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought  handmade cushion covers, but what I did not realize to expect was that at the back, they're closed with a row of half an inch wide snap fasteners, and their metallic dome backs protrude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUmzc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUmzc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Metal snap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a typical fabric sofa, this would probably not be a problem, but I meant them for an armchair with quite sensitive faux leather upholstering on the arm rests, and I'm afraid that the metallic caps could end up scratching or even breaking the puffy but relatively thin and elastic leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that I could do about this without having to consider removing the snap fasteners completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2275" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-10-22T09:19:50.000" LastActivityDate="2021-10-22T09:19:50.000" Title="Any ways to damping metallic snap fastener domes afterwards?" Tags="|material-selection|sewing|metal|restoration|fasteners|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3180" CreationDate="2017-06-28T20:22:19.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the resources that I reviewed agree that the amount of soda ash used for home dyeing is safe to pour down the drain. However, I agree that it is important to take extra precautions with a septic system. So I checked the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dharmatrading.com/info/fiber-reactive-dye-general-information.html?lnav=techniques.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dharma Trading Co. website&lt;/a&gt; (a great resource with lots of detailed info about dyeing fabric and fiber), &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One environmental consideration is that if you have added Soda Ash to your dyebath, then it's alkaline (high pH) and can be neutralized by the addition of a little white vinegar (low pH). If you used vinegar or acidic acid in your dyebath, you can add some Soda Ash to neutralize the acid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They go on, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Highly acidic or alkaline waste water maybe could upset the balance in a septic tank. We have pH test paper you can use to test the pH before flushing it down the drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would recommend testing the pH of the leftover liquid, and, if it is overly alkaline, treating it with some white vinegar before you pour it down your drain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-06-29T01:00:38.007" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T01:00:38.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3208" CreationDate="2017-06-29T02:34:22.910" Score="4" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;This art style is very reminiscent of old cartoons. Could you tell me if it has a name? I've become very interested in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B8gEu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B8gEu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zVsH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zVsH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2277" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T12:03:18.343" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T15:07:36.263" Title="What style of art is this?" Tags="|terminology|style-identification|illustration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3201" CreationDate="2017-06-29T04:18:43.753" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FYI, &quot;cartoon&quot; was, for Da Vinci and Michelangelo, the name for what we would call a &quot;preliminary sketch.&quot;  I don't have all the facts but feel good about giving you that bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, today's usage of the word cartoon connotes the image of a humorous or pointed image drawn in a stylized fashion. Lots of other stuff is cartoonish and the word is appropriate for animated material, but we expect cartoons to not be real but to imply reality, which is what, I think, attracts you to these two examples. They imply reality and yet it seems hidden and we are required to search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as naming your examples, nothing but cartoon comes to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another bit of info on closing: Picasso and his contemporaries didn't know they were &quot;cubists&quot; until an &quot;art critic&quot; gave them the title.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-06-01T18:47:41.823" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T18:47:41.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3211" CreationDate="2017-06-29T13:56:58.880" Score="2" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what properties should be considered before choosing a leather type for wallets creation, based on the following facts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The leather should be stitched after cutting;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The margins of the leather should be polished;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible to apply a stamp (for branding) on the leather surface;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1960" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T16:13:01.660" Title="What is the best type of leather for handmade goods (mostly wallets)" Tags="|cutting|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-29T22:18:16.943" Score="0" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two crescent shaped 3&quot; alloy pendants with hollow backs (like a scooped out avocado). I want to fill the hollows, insert a two-pronged hairpin between them and attach the pendants back to back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be best if one material could both fill and adhere, but if this is impossible, what material can be used to fill, and what separate material will glue the two sides together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2181" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-07-04T01:09:28.303" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T23:52:10.163" Title="What will permanently fill the hollow backs of alloy pendants?" Tags="|adhesives|metal|jewelry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-06-30T06:45:12.413" Score="4" ViewCount="2809" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have crocheted projects in the past, I have used all of the same lot number for the yarn even though all looked the same to me. When is using the same lot number really important? Is it only with natural fibers or natural fiber blends? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-06-30T15:43:09.563" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T15:04:57.763" Title="When is Lot Number important for yarn?" Tags="|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3201" CreationDate="2017-06-30T07:06:28.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.internationalposter.com/about-poster-art/style-primer.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; showing different art styles used in posters. To me, it looks like a constructionist poster or a post-modern poster since it seems to be of mixed styles. It could just simply be a mixed-media graphic too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="352" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T15:06:41.977" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T15:06:41.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3205" CreationDate="2017-06-30T15:35:11.987" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very good question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial-sized lot dyeing and computerized color matching have lessened the chance of noticeable lot variation visible to the human eye, which doesn't mean there isn't some color variation.  All manufacturing processes have &quot;acceptable tolerances&quot; which means they don't necessarily hit the nail on the head each time, but that the variation is deemed &quot;acceptable.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, there's less concern about lot-to-lot variation with the big commercial yarn manufacturers such as Bernat or Lion, but with some craft store brands or &quot;off brands&quot; I'd be careful.  Each manufacturer or brand sets their own acceptable color variation tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another watch-out for off-brand yarn is that small resellers can overdye a color that didn't sell, or wasn't up to specifications, or for numerous other reasons.  Over-dyed yarn is something you want to avoid since it has a different color &quot;heritage.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still a good idea to check lot numbers for things that matter - I wouldn't be so worried about lot numbers if I were making children's toys, but would be more careful when making a sweater or blanket - even slight &quot;technical&quot; shade differences may be evident to some people under different light sources. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that natural fibers have inherent differences because of animal-to-animal or plant-to-plant variation due to genetics or weather or dozens of other variables.  For commercial natural yarns, the above comments about acceptable tolerances in color matching still hold.  But for small-lot &quot;artisanal&quot; dyeing, lot number matching is essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that some synthetic yarns and fibers, e.g., acrylics, can be dyed at the slurry stage, in other words, before the fiber or yarn is even formed.  This means the color is inherent to the structure, not something added. These solution-dyed yarns are often used for commercial purposes such as indoor-outdoor fabrics that are expected to withstand excessive wear and exposure to the elements. The color matching information above still holds, it's just an interesting factoid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T15:35:11.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3201" CreationDate="2017-06-30T15:41:38.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The style of 1920s-1930s cartoons is called Inkblot (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/InkblotCartoonStyle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this TV Tropes page&lt;/a&gt; for more details), maybe this could help in your research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two images you posted have both an Inkblot feel, but they are more &amp;quot;graphical&amp;quot;, in a sense of being more graphic illustrations. Probably they're also both vector illustrations, which gives them the feel of being like &amp;quot;plastic&amp;quot;. These are more personal observations, of course, but they might help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2281" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-12-01T15:07:36.263" LastActivityDate="2023-12-01T15:07:36.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3205" CreationDate="2017-06-30T15:53:25.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yarns with the same dye lot number were all dyed at the same time. Because dying is a chemical reaction, many different factors can make items dyed at different times turn out differently, even if the dye &amp;quot;recipe&amp;quot; was identical from one dyeing session to the next. The temperature could be different, there could be slightly more or less pigment in a teaspoon of the dye powder, the water used for the dyes could have more or less chlorine from the water treatment plant, the fiber being dyed could have been scoured with a different type of soap, and any residual elements could interact with the dye.  There is tons of information about this on the interwebs-&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye_lot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is one article from Wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that is to say that it is almost impossible to get an exact match between yarns dyed in different dyeing sessions. It doesn't really matter what the base fiber is, or whether the dyer is an independent dyer working in their own home or a major yarn manufacturer--there will almost always be a slight variation of color between yarns dyed in different dye lots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you are going to be making something where you have a lot of a single color in a block, you usually want to purchase yarn from the same dye lot, otherwise you will probably see a slight (and sometimes not so slight) color demarcation where you have changed yarn. In this picture, someone had to use yarn from a different dyelot to finish the sleeve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HxzpD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HxzpD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sleeve is clearly darker than main garment&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW--if you ever find yourself in a situation where you do have yarns from different dye lots, the best way to minimize the issues with color mismatch are to use the yarns from both dyelots at the same time--knit/crochet two rows with one yarn, and then switch to the other yarn. Carry the unused yarn loosely up the side of the piece until you are ready to use it again.  By limiting the area of one color to a small section, your eyes will make the colors blend together and you are much less likely to notice a distinct color change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1236" LastEditDate="2022-10-26T15:04:57.763" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T15:04:57.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2017-06-30T19:12:51.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems a digital painting to me as well. So to make something like this you would need a graphic tablet (something like Wacom Bamboo, which is cheaper, for new users) and a digital illustration program (something like Photoshop, Paint Tool SAI or if you want something FREE you can start with the GIMP). These programs are not easy to use at first, but the web is full of tutorials that might help you learning the basics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make something like this but with a traditional medium, I think you can do it even with pencils, if you're talented (and you have a good variety/brand of pencils). For example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://morgandavidsonart.tumblr.com/post/155457148338/glowing-rose-colored-pencil-drawing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://morgandavidsonart.tumblr.com/post/155457148338/glowing-rose-colored-pencil-drawing&lt;/a&gt; (I know it's a different subject, but I think the style and use of pencils might be suitable for making art like the one you showed us)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bth5Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bth5Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that in general, you can reach this results with many mediums, but you have to really know the tool you're using (pros, cons and limits).&#xA;If you feel that you cannot do this with pencils right now, don't give up and keep drawing! That's the key to improvement and the FIRST thing that will allow you to achieve your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2281" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T19:12:51.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3203" CreationDate="2017-06-30T20:39:41.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For hand working there are a few broad categories of leather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Vegetable tanned leather: this tends to be fairly thick and hard, usually cowhide. This is the best option for many traditional type leatherworking projects such as knife sheaths, belt pouches etc. It is normally supplied undyed and takes tooling/embossing well and can also be wet formed to hold fairly stiff 3-dimensional shapes. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chrome tanned leather: this is what is most commonly found in garments and furniture. It tends to be fairly thin and supple and is usually pre-dyed and behaves similarly to a fairly heavy woven textile. This type doesn't take forming or embossing very well. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bookbinding leathers: a middle ground between the above types, includes pig, goat and thin cow hides. Depending on the type it can take tooling &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="1960" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T16:13:01.660" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T16:13:01.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3204" CreationDate="2017-07-01T22:13:31.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful if you could determine the exact type of alloy your pendants are made of, and if they are painted or coated in any way (in which case they may require sanding, chemical etching, or a primer to get the best bond). There are many multi-use products that could work, but you will achieve the best result using an adhesive made specifically for the metals in your pendants and for your application. For example, if your pendants will be exposed to water/humidity, or UV light, look for an adhesive made to withstand those conditions, or apply a protective top coat after the adhesive is dry. If you need to retain a certain degree of flex, or if you need the bond to dry clear, look for adhesives with those properties, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2284" LastEditorUserId="2284" LastEditDate="2017-07-03T23:59:24.027" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T23:59:24.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2017-07-02T00:14:59.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;• You will not get a very crisp line using Batik. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Michael's method (above) will work perfectly for you!  Just be sure to use a non-yellowing shellac/sealer.  Even some &quot;clear drying&quot; products can yellow slightly over time and UV exposure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Option 2: Follow Michael's instructions except use paint instead of shellac to seal your fabric. Then apply tape to define your stripes or numbers. Before spraying on the new color, first spray the tape edges with paint matching the existing background color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray flag with white paint (front and back) to seal fabric.*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply tape to mask-out (blue) numbers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray the edge of the tape (or the entire number) with white paint (the background color/the color adjacent to the number color). If any paint seeps under the tape, it won't show - it's the same color as the background. The tape edge is now sealed so no blue paint from the next coat will get under the tape. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray the numbers blue and let dry. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowly peel off the tape as soon as paint is &quot;dry to the touch&quot;, but before it is fully cured. If the tape is left on too long, the bond between the two paints (blue and white) can become stronger than the tape, and the tape will be difficult to remove, and the line may not be as crisp. &#xA;NOTE 1: Use caution when taping over new paint - some tapes will cause paint to lift when removed. &#xA;NOTE 2: Test your fabric. It may not be necessary to spray the back of your flag with paint or shellac. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2284" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T00:14:59.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1899" CreationDate="2017-07-02T03:27:47.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FABRI-TAC Permanent Adhesive -by Beacon Adhesives has the properties you are looking for. You can find it in fabric stores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2284" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T03:27:47.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2017-07-03T00:42:50.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tile cutter with a diamond blade works to smooth the edges of glass. I bought one at a garage sale to cut slate tiles and found it also works to finish glass edges. Mine has a way to tilt the blade also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first lightly run the glass edges at a 90 degree angle against the diamond saw blade, IE, with the blade straight up and down. Next I tilt the blade over and bevel the edges very slightly. I usually end up using a fine diamond sharpening hone to go over the edges after words to be sure there are no sharp edges left anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about the tile saw, it is a wet saw so this keeps the glass dust under control. Small tile saws can be purchased very cheap, but the cheap ones do not have a way to tilt or angle the blade and I do really like that feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2286" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T00:42:50.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3096" CreationDate="2017-07-04T18:17:19.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Angled views of objects are called &quot;fore shortened&quot; and present challenges to understanding that often stymie the artist trying to capture an image. Since you have a picture and probably have a printer, I suggest using a grid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the printed image draw lines across the paper at every inch point.  That will give you an 8.5 x 11 graph over layered onto the face. With a pencil and a lite touch, duplicate an 8.5 x 11 graph onto your canvas or paper and fill the corresponding squares with those on the photograph.  The graph on your canvas may be larger or smaller than the printer copy, as you will have to fit the image to a proportionately different surface.  It's not very hard, even for the math challenged.  Similar techniques have been used for centuries by some very famous artists.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T18:17:19.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3204" CreationDate="2017-07-04T23:52:10.163" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think resin would be the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T23:52:10.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2017-07-04T23:54:15.813" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;elmers glue is the a life saver you have to wait but it will do the job&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T23:54:15.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-06T16:30:26.257" Score="0" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of methods, similar to how some products use a lid to snap onto an object so that it remains clipped to that particular object and snaps into place. However, I want no 3rd party material applications used. Just mechanisms used to combine two objects temporarily into place to become as one structure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry if this doesn't exactly paint the perfect picture in your head and also if didn't use proper terminology to properly describe what I am looking for.. However, any help, lead or point towards a direction to find this would be helpful, even it isn't the whole answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2299" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-07-06T21:31:46.047" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T18:01:56.717" Title="What kind of methods can one use to bind two objects as one, without any adhesive" Tags="|material-selection|plastic|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-07-06T20:17:54.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2017-07-06T19:25:48.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A general term you may find helpful here is &lt;em&gt;fastening&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A search on &lt;em&gt;fastening method&lt;/em&gt; turns up some interesting resources that discuss various fastening methods used in industry. I'd start there with the abstract discussions. Those are likely places to find other general category terms you can use to refine your search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this one interesting for a start: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sme.org/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=73743&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fastening &amp;amp; Assembly&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would indicate what you're looking for may belong to the category &quot;integral fasteners&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2017-07-21T18:01:56.717" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T18:01:56.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-07T17:43:39.833" Score="3" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old flat white colored &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pickguard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pickguard&lt;/a&gt; from my first guitar that I got signed by some guitarists I like with permanent marker. However, with age, the plastic has yellowed somewhat, which normally wouldn't be a problem (it's a nice cream color right now), except now I'd like to have the pickguard framed, and there are parts of it which were covered by the knobs of the guitar that didn't get stained, and I'd like it to all be a consistent color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that you can soak yellowing plastic in hydrogen peroxide, and set it out in sunlight for a bit to restore it to its original color, but I'm concerned that this, and other methods like bleaching the pickguard might also remove the signatures on it. Thus, I was wondering if anyone knew a method that would let me restore the color of the original plastic without removing the signatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Sintrastes" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-07-07T19:24:23.360" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T01:34:49.207" Title="Is it possible to restore the plastic on a pickguard without removing a signature on it?" Tags="|plastic|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3235" CreationDate="2017-07-07T21:14:10.187" Score="3" ViewCount="3854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to use recycled Corona bottles to pack some juice I'm producing, but to put my own logo on these bottles, I want to remove the original printed brand. In my city, and even in my whole country there is no recycling plants so there is basically nowhere to get help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using paint thinner, paint remover, acetone, and brushing, only the last one worked but the bottle was unsuable after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question: &lt;strong&gt;HOW TO REMOVE THE PRINTED BRANDING IN A CORONA BOTTLE?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eBtVj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eBtVj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Empty Corona bottle to be cleaned&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2308" LastEditorUserId="2308" LastEditDate="2017-07-07T21:25:30.893" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T18:41:05.433" Title="How to remove Corona bottle printing?" Tags="|paint|glass|upcycling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-07-11T17:37:54.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3224" CreationDate="2017-07-08T00:38:16.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A commercial paint remover of sufficient potency may solve your problem, although great care should be taken in handling and use. A friend runs a shop using aircraft paint removal chemicals. Once applied and placed in sunlight, the paint bubbles and scrapes off easily. The same chemical burns like a match if even the smallest drop touches skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps slightly safer and possibly as effective would be automotive brake fluid. Every bottle of the stuff has warnings about damage to paint, although there is a possibility that the silicone based stuff would not be as damaging. A quick Google check shows that silicone based brake fluid DOES NOT damage paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-07-08T00:38:16.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2017-07-08T03:57:49.883" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to erase a smaller area without buying additional stuff, it's easy! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a blade or scissors (I prefer blades) and cut out a pointed shape to erase with. If you are scared of wasting erasers, you can just trim the corners or cut it in half or just use the leftovers from the cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have new erasers or you didn't use the bottom corners, use them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the erasers from mechanical pencils or from pencils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2305" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-07-09T02:53:18.010" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T02:53:18.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-08T04:01:23.247" Score="5" ViewCount="2103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print the colour white onto a transfer paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2305" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T21:17:54.103" LastActivityDate="2023-09-22T07:12:11.957" Title="Is there any way to print white colour onto paper?" Tags="|printing|ink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3227" CreationDate="2017-07-10T11:29:05.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is white Trace-it transfer paper from a company called ScratchArt. This would require you to print out your image first then trace over image to make the actual image transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to the idea of carbon paper instead in this case the paper is coated on one side with lose layer of white ink bound with wax. The image is transferred by placing the coated side down gently onto a surface and then scribing the image on the non coated surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="352" LastEditDate="2023-09-22T07:12:11.957" LastActivityDate="2023-09-22T07:12:11.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2155" CreationDate="2017-07-10T17:04:45.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest the Stabilo Carbothello Chalk-Pastel Pencil in Titanium White.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ax50s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ax50s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found one for sale on Amazon for $3.84, here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://a.co/gimVlHQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://a.co/gimVlHQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I'm sure you can find it in most office supply and/or art supply stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several other brands, but I would seek out those pencils labeled, &quot;Titanium White&quot; to prevent the yellow-ish tinge you refer to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium White is known for being bright white. If you're looking for a more transparent, but also clean white, try to find a &quot;Zinc White.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2315" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T17:04:45.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3182" CreationDate="2017-07-10T17:25:54.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used the clear gesso with pigments to create underpainting. Clear gesso mixed with acrylics can achieve a faux watercolor paint effect. (I found an example YouTube video &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/hNAHeEMx9Ho?t=12s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.) I personally did this a little differently. I mixed the clear gesso with the paint in a little cup and added a few drops of water. I dipped my brush in the paint and painted over dry gesso. (It had a similar effect, but I had more control.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question; It is definitely translucent upon drying and would make it more difficult (but not impossible) to achieve an even-toned background. If that is what you are going for, I would definitely stick to the white gesso. But, give the clear gesso a try. I highly suggest experimenting with it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2315" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T17:25:54.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="40" CreationDate="2017-07-10T17:37:45.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winsor Newton has this fantastic guide to show the drying times of various available colors. Here is the info and the link to the full page with additional details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, here is the range:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fast Drying Oil Colors (Around 2 days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medium Drying Oil Colors (Around 5 days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow Drying Oil Colors (More than 5 days - up to around 12 days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Working with oil color allows for a certain degree of flexibility while painting, as it takes longer to dry than other media. Should you&#xA;  want to alter your work days into a project, oil color allows for such&#xA;  changes to be made. Its malleable nature, in addition to the depth,&#xA;  purity, and vibrancy of pigment quality, makes oil color a favorite&#xA;  among some artists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Familiarizing yourself with the properties of various oil colors and&#xA;  their drying rates will help you achieve the best results, in addition&#xA;  to avoiding cracking and other mishaps. Generally, oil colors become&#xA;  ‘touch-dry’ in thin films within two to 12 days, but different&#xA;  reactions of each pigment when mixed with oil results in varying&#xA;  drying times which will affect your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We’ve rounded up critical information about each of our key oil color&#xA;  ranges and the drying rates of various colors for your convenience.&#xA;  Read on and print out the charts when choosing your oil colors of&#xA;  choice for easy reference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For specific color drying times, click &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/tips-and-techniques/oil-colour/understanding-the-drying-times-for-oil-colour-us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For additional tips on working with oil paints, click &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/tips-and-techniques/oil-colour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2315" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T17:37:45.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3224" CreationDate="2017-07-11T05:06:10.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took an 18-gallon plastic tub and stood clean/empty beer bottles upright in the bottom until there was no room for more.  I then filled the tub with water from the hose and of course, the bottles all tried to float.  One by one, I pointed the hose into each bottle until it filled and sank.&#xA;Once the water was above all of the bottle openings,  I poured in about 2 ounces of StarSan sanitizer (which is available at most home brew supply stores).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I put the cover on the tub and left it that way for about a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I opened it up, all of the paper labels were floating on top.  Some of the bottles which had hosted those paper labels still had a little glue on them, but that glue rubbed right off with finger pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (corona and sol) bottles which had not had paper labels still had a little of their original ink on them but again it came off with either finger pressure or under an old tooth brush.  I used a razor blade on the tough spots but soon had about fifty bottles which were almost ready for use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be careful, I ran them all through the dishwasher then dipped them in a fresh batch of starsan and let them air dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea if starsan could have cleaned off the bottles quicker than the one month that I gave it.  I chose that time because that is how long I let my beer mature in the carboy before bottling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One word of caution.  Several of the bottles which I carefully prepared for reuse had screw-on caps.  When I resealed them using a manual capper and crimp-on caps, the seals were not airtight and the beer never carbonated.  The little glass ridges, which help the screw-on caps stay in place, ruin the seal for crimp-on caps.  Only use bottles which have smooth openings at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T05:06:10.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3227" CreationDate="2017-07-11T08:56:01.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- Method 1 -&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fastest and smartest way is, set color as RGB(0,0,1).&#xA;But if you want to print white color permanetly and &lt;strong&gt;want to white color&lt;/strong&gt; following method 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- Method 2 -&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will not get anything on the paper with a basic CMYK inkjet or laser printer. The CMYK color mixing is subtractive, meaning that it requires the base that is being colored to have all colors (i.e., White) So that it can create color variation through subtraction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;White - Cyan - Yellow = Green&#xA;White - Yellow - Magenta = Red&#xA;White - Cyan - Magenta = Blue&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White is represented as 0 cyan, 0 yellow, 0 magenta, and 0 black - effectively, 0 ink for a printer that simply has those four cartridges. This works great when you have white media, as &quot;printing no ink&quot; simply leaves the white exposed, but as you can imagine, this doesn't work for non-white media.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a base color to subtract from (i.e., Black), then it doesn't matter what you subtract from it, you still have the color Black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others are pointing out, there are special printers which can operate in the CMYW color space, or otherwise have a white ink or toner. These can be used to print light colors on top of dark or otherwise non-white media.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also find my answer to a different question about color spaces helpful or informative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;REF : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-to-print-white-onto-black-paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-to-print-white-onto-black-paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2319" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T08:56:01.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3224" CreationDate="2017-07-11T11:18:54.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have posted &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/20565/how-to-remove-corona-bottle-printing/20571?noredirect=1#comment26809_20571&quot;&gt;this question on HomeBrewing SE site&lt;/a&gt; at the same time I did here, and the problem has been solved. I wanted to share the answer for anyone who can find it useful. Thanks for your answers. This was the solution for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydrochloric acid alone worked perfectly&lt;/strong&gt;, the bottle was put into it for less than 10 minutes, and after that it was rinsed with water (almost no rubbing was needed) and everything was removed in less than 10 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTES:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The part of paint remaining on the top, was not inside the acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The &lt;strong&gt;bottle itself was not affected&lt;/strong&gt;. It's still shiny and without a single scratch after the proccess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The paint doesn't disintegrate inside the acid, so &lt;strong&gt;the acid could be used multiple times&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the result here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SX8IP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SX8IP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2308" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-07-04T18:41:05.433" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T18:41:05.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3117" CreationDate="2017-07-13T01:21:18.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, acrylic is a cheaper and more forgiving medium to start with. As mentioned by other respondents, acrylic is fast-drying and can be painted over. You can also use acrylic media, such as glosses, gels, pastes, etc., to adjust the consistency and texture of acrylic paint. I personally use acrylic paste and gels to thicken the paint such that it can be textured like oil paint. You can also use acrylic paint like watercolors by diluting with water if you are painting on a porous surface (like paper). If you're new to painting and haven't decided on a style yet, acrylic paint is a great paint to begin experimenting with because of how versatile it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic is also easier to start with because it doesn't require as much specialized material. Before drying, the paint is water-soluble, so you can clean brushes with water and mild soap. (But make sure you wash your brushes before the paint dries! Once acrylic paint dries, it forms a polymer finish, which is insoluble in water. This also means acrylic paints can work as fabric paint as well. ;]) But with oil paint, you need turpentine for cleaning brushes. And of course, oil for the paint. You also need to learn a proper order for applying paints (&quot;fat over lean&quot;) in order for the colors to show up properly in the end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T01:21:18.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3243" CreationDate="2017-07-14T03:41:31.750" Score="4" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to learn how to draw realistic birds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen many drawing books talking about muscles in humans, bone structure etc.&#xA;I wish to know that to draw realistic birds do I actually have to learn how many muscles they have and where they are placed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that the way to draw realistic birds? or there is some other way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T13:24:20.450" Title="Do I have to know about muscles and their placements while learning to draw realistic birds?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3242" CreationDate="2017-07-14T12:39:06.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knowing the anatomy of your subject will make you a better artist. Here's why...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of four reasons why an artist studies the anatomy of what they intend render into a work of art:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Structure&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The human eye is very sensitive at identifying shapes and proportions. Get the structure wrong and the eye &quot;will&quot; see it. Knowing how something is put together will make it easier for you to reproduce it during the drawing process. You will also be able to critique your own work and know if the image is working or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Invention&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The artist may not have access to a reference photo of the exact pose they are looking to draw. In this case the artist will need to invent the pose by some means. Look up the stick figures of Terryl Whitlatch, or the maquettes of James Gurney. The stick figure and maquette are both tools available to the artist to help them draw better and be more inventive with the pose of their subject. It takes a solid understanding of anatomy to create a useable tools such as these artists use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3)Further Learning&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;When you know the anatomy of the subject it will be easier for you to communicate with others when discussing the subject. Being able to discuss the subject with others will make things clearer in your own mind. As new information comes up you will be better able to catalogue and integrate it with what you already know. Look up Richard Feynman's technique of how to learn anything. Feynman's approach to learning technique works for all subjects, even those subjects important to the artist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4) Spiritual Empathy&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;... this gets into some artsy spiritual stuff ...&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Learning the anatomy of your subject brings you one step closer in developing your connection to what it is you want to draw. Artists look to put their energy into their works and combine it with the energy of their subject. To be able to detect that energy you need to develop a close relationship with your subject. It through this empathetic connection of understanding that you will be able to connect on a soulful level with the energy and spirit of your subject. Better understanding of your subject (anatomy, physiology, philosophy, behaviour, spirit) will make you a better artist of the subject.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2017-07-15T14:20:43.320" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T14:20:43.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2351" CreationDate="2017-07-15T09:16:37.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case of small hooks, especially the tiny steel ones, it makes a difference.&#xA;Look at at a picture (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://manualni.pl/kolejne-szydelkowe-serca-oraz-test-porownawczy-szydelek/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;) of two hearts crocheted using the same pattern, but different hooks:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0AUc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0AUc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two crocheted hearts, using 1mm and 0.75mm hooks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference of a quarter of a milimeter is the same as with your hook and pattern, but for tiny hooks this is in fact a difference of 3 sizes (increments are 0.1mm). The larger heart is twice as large as the smaller one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if your gauge is off using your hook, but you like the fabric it's giving you, remember that you might need a different amount of yarn for your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T09:16:37.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2017-07-15T09:51:24.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I crochet using knife grip, and tried to learn pen grip, since it is considered 'right' in my country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When learning, I found that pen grip allows you smaller hand movements, so it is better joints and wrists. It was also easier when working with fine yarns; when I tried to crochet thicker yarns, my hand would quickly return to knife grip. Additionally my gauge was tighter with pen grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed greatly depends on your proficiency with each grip, so it is not really a point for any of the grips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I returned to knife grip, because I found inserting the hook in a stitch much easier this way - for pen grip I had to twist fabric so that I would have trouble seeing the stitch (I would commonly insert the hook under only front loop or split the back loop), because the hook points somewhat downwards, left and slightly forwards, while with knife grip my hook points left, slightly upwards and parallel to my body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Illustration of this difference:&#xA;Pen hold, pointing downwards&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hhZmR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hhZmR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pen hold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Crocheting using pen hold&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWsN7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWsN7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;using pen hold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Knife hold, pointing upwards&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MLQc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1MLQc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;knife hold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Crocheting using knife hold&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GSrhK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GSrhK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;using knife hold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T09:51:24.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-15T14:25:25.690" Score="3" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an electronics hobbyist. I'd like to put a Wi-Fi module in my garden. It would be awesome if it would be possible to put that electronics into a stone or something similar. It doesn't need to be able to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Things I considered:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.&lt;/strong&gt; There's a rock for hiding keys available on the market:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9IQl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9IQl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jrsAAOSwPh5ZIqe7/s-l1600.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seller says that it's made of synthetic resin. But I'm not sure how to make that in home conditions? This specific product is too small. I'd require something a little bit bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You might just take a watertight hobby box and an adhesive, perhaps like the foam used by pond hobbyists, and 'glue' rocks over the box. – user2448131&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO that wouldn't be ideal enough? I mean you could easily see that it's just a bunch of stones that are glued, right? I think I'm looking for something more plain/consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is good in general but this time I'm looking for something that would cover it from every angle. Such a whim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how to make such a thing like the box for hiding a key or something similar easily at home/garage workshop conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2340" LastEditorUserId="2340" LastEditDate="2017-07-15T15:05:53.237" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T12:39:40.723" Title="How to make a stone (or something similar) and put there electronics?" Tags="|material-selection|stones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3182" CreationDate="2017-07-15T18:59:51.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clear gesso is useful on several ways.  It can also be interchanged with other mediums for other applications.  So for instance, you gesso your canvas as a binder, just the same as you prime walls when you are painting your home  It seals your under surface and it creates a surface your paint can bond to.  If you want a watercolor sort of background &amp;amp; have a white canvas, you can use it like a glaze for sure.  You can also use a standard gesso, and once dry opt for a matte or shine medium, regular gel will give you the same luster as an acrylic paint.  So you can then overcoat your white gesso with using a gel medium or some other extender.  You can also use water if you make sure you use no more than 25%, anything more &amp;amp; you can impact the ability of the paint to bond.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the other use, which is really what makes clear gesso great is in applications that are multimedia.  So you can say, decoupage over a canvas, then coat it in clear gesso (it will end up totally clear) and now you have a surface that paints will bond well with and you can overpaint what is on there without risking bonding issues or smearing what you have below.  You might get &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; smearing with the clear gesso, but typically less than you would on straight acrylics.  I love the effect of doing a pencil sketch, basic or colored pencils, sealing with clear gesso &amp;amp; then using clear gesso to thin my paints to a glaze &amp;amp; overpainting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2343" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T18:59:51.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-16T22:09:05.433" Score="5" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in the perspective of large objects, spanning enough distance that the spherical nature of the earth comes into play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would one do the proper constructions to accurately draw this curvature? See this curve for example. How would one actually accurately represent the red line in a composition?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pneY8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pneY8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2346" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T15:16:36.853" Title="Are there any techniques established for doing perspective on a spherical surface?" Tags="|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3253" CreationDate="2017-07-16T23:49:18.173" Score="9" ViewCount="6756" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife uses Van Gogh watercolor paints in what I think is a really strange way. She squeezes some paint from the tube, lets it dry on the palette for 48 hours, and then uses a wet brush to paint with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've certainly seen lots of information about reusing dry watercolor paint, but I've never encountered anyone intentionally waiting or the paint to dry before starting to use it. She says this is the way to get the right consistency. Waiting two days sounds like a huge pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else encountered this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2347" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T15:20:33.420" Title="Intentionally letting watercolor paints dry before using them?" Tags="|paint|painting|watercolor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2961" CreationDate="2017-07-18T00:48:27.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was one of a few machinists that made the main pivot pin that links the Leatherman tools in the holder. Because the (stainless steel pin) material was very difficult to work down to the +-.0005 dimensions indicated using standard machine tooling, Leatherman made ongoing changes to the dimensions and material for cost effectiveness. The previous post, buy or use an appropriate caliper to measure would be the best if you are custom making your own tools to mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2351" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T00:48:27.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3250" CreationDate="2017-07-18T00:54:47.007" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your wife learned to paint with watercolor paints in pans, and/or learned from someone who only really knew of these types of paints:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HL6cm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HL6cm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;van Gogh watercolor set of 12 pans&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are in a sense the ancestors of the kiddie watercolors you may have struggled with as a child, and thus you might think that they're lower quality than tube paints, but that's not actually the case: they're exactly the same pigments and binders as tube watercolors, with possibly a little bit less glycerin, since they don't have to stay flexible in the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The techniques used for painting with pans can be quite different than the techniques for using tube paints - with the latter, you basically dilute the paint to heavy cream consistency and use it that way, while with the former, you do what your wife (eventually) does, namely use a wet brush to pick up mostly-dry paint. By the end of a painting session, even the pan paints will be at least damp and softened, but you're unlikely to ever end up with the mythical heavy cream consistency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With tube paints, if you diluted more paint than you could use (very, very likely unless you're painting huge landscapes or something), you let it dry in your palette, and then next time you either use it as if it were pan paint (maybe another possible root for your wife's, um, habit), or you go ahead and mix it with enough water to get back to heavy cream consistency, possibly adding a touch more gum arabic if you've gone through several cycles of wet-dry-wet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible root for your wife's method is that often, people will refill their pans from a tube, for instance if there's one particular color that they keep running out of, or if the price point happens to be better for tubes than pans. (It varies by paint manufacturer, pigment, what sales are happening, and various other arcane factors.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, there are paints meant to be used as your wife does (wet brush on dry-ish paint), and there are some use cases which look a lot like your wife's initial preparation (i.e. somehow ending up with dried tube paint in a pan or palette), but doing it from the outset, with no pans to speak of, seems a bit... cargo-cultish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T00:54:47.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-18T07:23:30.407" Score="5" ViewCount="1286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to cut a bunch of interlocking pieces from plywood. As a cheaper alternative to laser cutting (I've got a quote for 90 bucks) I'm exploring my options to do this by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to transfer a schematic with very fine lines onto plywood sheets so I can cut it out with a hobby saw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most options I've seen so far seem very prone to smudging or other distortions. If you're transfering large, rough structures that isn't as critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intuition tells me that probably the most reliable and error-tolerant way would be to print the schematic on paper, cut it out, tape it to the plywood and then carefully saw along the outline...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The parts I'm planning to make are relatively small, a few centimeters, so I should be able to fit a decent number on a single sheet of paper...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2354" LastEditorUserId="2354" LastEditDate="2017-07-19T06:01:45.433" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T15:16:22.280" Title="High accuracy transfer of cutting blueprint onto plywood" Tags="|wood|printing|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2017-07-18T09:42:19.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question. As Wiljago has commented De Chirico is a good fit however I'll add that what unites the examples you've given are not stylistic (formal) similarities but atmospheric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your examples do mainly feature the flat clean (low poly)geometric forms or surfaces you favour but other factors are far more emotionally evocative. Open, empty public spaces, decaying grandeur, isolated figures in stark urban environments all bathed in low raking evening light (long defined shadows). Francis Bacon is notable because while he recognised and strove for a starkness in his work, he also wanted to subvert it with increasingly random marks and splatters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you are working towards an art style for a game I'd suggest you also check out the architect Louis Kahn whose clean minimal grandeur might tie in nicely with the mood you're after. If you address nothing else but the evening lighting (notably absent from &quot;Fade to Black&quot;) however I think you will achieve the atmosphere that unites your sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-07-19T13:38:58.397" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T13:38:58.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3254" CreationDate="2017-07-18T11:10:41.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to cut out the pattern with a saw you could &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;laser etch&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; your schematic onto the surface of your plywood. The laser etched pattern would be extremely precise and it would give you a clear pattern to follow as you cut. Since you are just etching the surface and not cutting all the way through the laser doesn't need to be very powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options available for transferring the image are: do a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;carbon paper&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; transfer directly onto the surface of the plywood, use a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;projector&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (opaque or overhead) and project the image onto the plywood and trace it out or use a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;pantograph&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to create a proportional line drawing on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or keeping things really simple just glue your uncut paper to the plywood and cut out the pattern. Saves you the hassle of cutting the paper with the scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="402" LastEditDate="2017-07-18T11:22:05.390" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T11:22:05.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3254" CreationDate="2017-07-18T12:44:50.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://hackaday.com/2016/09/12/take-your-pcbs-from-good-to-great-toner-transfer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;toner transfer method&lt;/a&gt; of transferring an image onto a PCB should also work on wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you &lt;em&gt;laser&lt;/em&gt; print (a mirror image if you need to work from the front) on suitable paper (I've done this with &lt;em&gt;inkjet&lt;/em&gt; glossy photo paper), then iron onto the material, and you get a nice clean black image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're limited by the size of the print you can make, or your ability to join prints together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stick a paper template onto the wood as you suggest in your question, I recommend repositionable spray mount all over the back of the template.  Taping is less effective once you start cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-07-19T02:17:29.577" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T02:17:29.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3246" CreationDate="2017-07-18T14:57:58.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about Feather Rock? That is lightweight and easy to alter. Or check out some of the hidden outdoor speaker ideas and simply convert them for your project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2332" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T14:57:58.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-18T15:08:17.867" Score="4" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is anyone who has used the inkjet waterslide transfers on glass or bottles as part of a recycling art project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be making some wine bottles as centerpieces for my wedding and I'm wondering if I spray the bottles with acrylic paint first, could I still put the bottle in the oven to set the waterslide decals, over the paint? Or would that be disastrous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to get it wrong as I only have a limited supply of free bottles I've been given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2356" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-07-19T14:48:38.730" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T16:07:12.260" Title="Can I use inkjet waterslide transfers on glass bottles?" Tags="|painting|glass|upcycling|decals|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3242" CreationDate="2017-07-18T19:18:04.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can offer no argument against knowing a subject's anatomy, this is especially true with hairless or shorthaired life forms, where sub-derma structure of bone and mass are visible at the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, birds offer the artist, relatively smooth uninterrupted visual forms.  The feathers provide an envelope covering musculature and simplify the surface into balls and triangles for an initial sketch. This is where the challenge begins.  Proportion and detail, the former being the more important quality from my perspective, must be addressed.  How accurate do you want to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Study your chosen subject and place the anatomical features, like eyes, beak, and, feather placement in their correct location and proportion and you should produce a satisfying image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally have two architectural scales and one engineering to help accurately position features onto the surface.  You could also consider projecting the image.  Measure, sketch or, project, you choose but, from experience, I've found accurate anatomical placement will go far toward giving you a realistic drawing and is more important than detail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to think like an impressionist when I'm burdened by the desire to add detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="2265" LastEditDate="2017-07-19T13:24:20.450" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T13:24:20.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3048" CreationDate="2017-07-18T19:30:56.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastics have become less adaptable to paint and vinyl plastics are often the least receptive.  However, I think if you went to a distributor like Blick and visited the sign painter's paints, &quot;One Shot&quot; being the most prominent, you will find a very palatable product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Palatable in the sense that they mix well, so you can buy a few small jars and blend a skin tone.  And palatable because they just are the best enamel paints ever developed for commercial use.  They are heavily pigmented so they can be reduced and sprayed.  They lay down well and don't leave heavy ridge lines when strokes over lap, should you chose to paint with a brush.  They dry quickly and provide an even gloss finish, which can be flattened if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T19:30:56.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="687" CreationDate="2017-07-18T19:45:14.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Painting on a plexi surface can be challenging! I'd clean with alcohol to prep.&#xA;I'm not a big user of acrylcs but I do know there are quality gradations and I suspect the higher the quality the better the bonding.  Were I in your shoes I'd ask or go buy price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understand that static electricity may play one of those challenging roles.  To combat it, keep a moist/damp rag or paper towel in touch with the plexi sheet. Another problem will be the susceptibility to scratching.  To protect your work a sheet of clear plexi would, in my opinion, be better than a clear spray.  Still, if a clear varnish like cover is what you want, clear spray acrylic, should be available where you buy your paint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T19:45:14.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3254" CreationDate="2017-07-19T02:12:07.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My intuition tells me that probably the most reliable and error-tolerant way would be to print the schematic on paper, cut it out, tape it to the plywood and then carefully saw along the outline&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading the post wondering if you would come to the same conclusion. Yes, I would think that this would be one of the easiest and most budget friendly ways to get your pattern onto the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluing the entire to your surface would not be required but everywhere near where you would be cutting would. If need be reverse the image before you print it and when you cut it the other side will be your intended design. Scraping the paper off after the fact wouldn't be too hard though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/gear/howto.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matthias Wandel uses that technique to make wooden gears (and other things...)&lt;/a&gt;. Depending on the size of your design you could use something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/bigprint/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Big Print&lt;/a&gt; which helps with accuracy on larger mediums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as applying the paper template to the wood...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I always glue it on by putting a very thin coat of wood glue around the edge of the gear and then pressing the paper template on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the template it not going to move you should be able to cut out your design quickly and easily with hand tools like a coping / fret saw or even power tools like a bandsaw or jig saw. Routers with flush trim bits would also work everywhere except for fine detail areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uog48viZUbM&amp;amp;t=7m17s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;great marble music machine uses this technique as well&lt;/a&gt; (I know its another gears example but its really cool!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also for something small I strongly suggest using the same template for each one and not using a &quot;good&quot; one that you made as a template. Small errors will follow you that you might not see at first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-07-19T02:19:50.080" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T02:19:50.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3254" CreationDate="2017-07-19T04:03:37.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another alternative would be to use a home vinyl cutter such as the Silhouette, the Circuit or the Scan-N-Cut to cut out your template on decent quality paper.  I use a silhouette to cut stencils all the time and as long as I use decent quality 40lb paper, the cuts are clean and precise.  Regular card stock tends to get fuzzy in the corners making the resulting stencils unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has a good source for 40lb paper, please list it in the comments.  I've been buying mine at a craft store and even the clearance rack 30 cents per page is killing me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T04:03:37.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3259" CreationDate="2017-07-19T04:09:04.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In scale model building, I apply waterslide decals over acrylic paint all the time.  Obviously, those models are plastic, so I don't cook them.  Instead, I put a light covering of clear coat over them after the paint has dried, then again after the decals are in-place and air-dried.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've left uncovered decals exposed to the air without any trouble in situations where they won't be touched or handled, but whenever I want the application to be durable, a little matte clear coat does the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2017-07-19T14:00:40.297" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T14:00:40.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3246" CreationDate="2017-07-19T12:39:40.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marble and sandstone are two soft natural stone (like) materials.  Both can be easily drilled and filed to create a hidden compartment or pocket.  The pocket can then be closed and even made water resistant by molding a hatch cover from any number of materials available at lowes or home depot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A natural stone will not cause scrutiny from a discerning eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T12:39:40.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3271" CreationDate="2017-07-19T14:01:52.357" Score="8" ViewCount="1537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got few unfinished leather sheaths for knives and axes, but they're all unfinished because of the unfinished edges. I've read forums about finishing edges, but I've read on 20 pages about 20 techniques and all I could sum up from pages is that I shouldn't be using Edge Kote, because someone told me, that &quot;Nothing screams amateurish like Edge Kote.&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I've come with the techniques is, after I sew it together (like my latest axe sheaths in the picture #1 below), I should take off edges with an edger tool (V cut on edges, picture #2) and then use the spinning wood (picture #3), but I didn't get the desired finish as I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any similar problems or it's own technique, which would work better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aNWJc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aNWJc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;latest axe sheaths&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTOEx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTOEx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;v Cut on edges&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OazsA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OazsA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wood on lathe to finish edges&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top view from the axe sheath:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zpjGr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zpjGr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Desired edge finish on leather products:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rpmbX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rpmbX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastEditorUserId="2119" LastEditDate="2017-07-21T13:33:34.537" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T12:20:08.280" Title="Finishing leather edges" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="228" CreationDate="2017-07-19T18:52:27.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plaster comes in quality ranges.  The plaster sold for slip casting is a high quality and, no doubt the site or store will have an answer for the beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, all moisture must be out or near the outer surface of the mold before pouring your metal.  Part of you problem may be that you have a one piece mold.  A two piece mold allows the surface area you wish to reproduce to release moisture and dry when opened to the air, whereas a one piece contains an atmosphere that is usually more populated with water molecules than the outer surface, so the path of least resistance will be the outer surface and water will try to find it and remain in the plaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your oven should be adequate to the task.  Heat it to 350 or whatever the site or store recommends and expect to leave it there for hours, depending on the density and size.  Also, be sure the mold is stabilized with the opening facing up to permit quick venting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pouring your metal into your very dry mold, venting will again have a roll. Picture water shooting from a hose and then picture that hose shooting water into a glass pitcher.  Your molten metal will act like the water when it hits the bottom of the pitcher.  You want as little of that as possible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help prevent the turbulence vents are added. The vents are created by drilling a few small diameter holes directly through the image surface and into the region that will be filled with tin.  Gases, including water vapor, which also cause turbulence, have an escape path and will leave just before the hot metal does. The metal will find them and the escape of some metal will reduce the problem.  These vents need to be chased off, after the mold is removed.  Soft metals are easy to deal with and tin falls into that category.  Hack saw, files, or sand paper should help hide the blemishes created by the removal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T18:52:27.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3254" CreationDate="2017-07-19T20:23:48.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @john vukelic.  I would start by trying to adhere the paper directly to the wood, but if that doesn't work, for whatever reason, a good quality carbon transfer paper should work really well for you.  The type used with receipt books, etc. is easily smeared and can be difficult to remove, but transfer paper specifically designed to use for woodworking (which I have never used personally), or for art or sewing fabric (which I have used) is actually quite precise and can be erased.  It is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=carbon%20paper&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8#q=quality%20carbon%20transfer%20paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;readily available&lt;/a&gt; and not very expensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T20:23:48.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3254" CreationDate="2017-07-20T03:54:49.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Borrow a trick from our sewing friends. They use a spiked wheel to &quot;copy&quot; lines on a pattern on to the fabric with a carbon-copy type paper between. The paper they use comes in different colours so that it's visible on the fabric. It's made for that purpose, so it should be better about smudging than office type carbon-copy paper (though maybe slightly more expensive). The spiked wheel has the advantage that if you apply enough pressure when using it on the plywood it will embed the colour slightly below the surface, making it more smudge-proof than a line drawn on the surface. I doubt, however, that the indents made by the wheel itself, without the coloured paper, would be enough to follow as the plywood is too rough to spot such small holes, but you could try it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2268" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T03:54:49.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3267" CreationDate="2017-07-20T10:51:40.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking great by the way so far!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally when finishing any leather edges, I find the tiniest bit of Eco-flow gum tragacanth (brand not specific but it's just the one I've used) with a quick &#xA;hand burnish with a cloth gives the best finish. Yes, it's a lot harder and you need elbow grease, but I think it's worth it. I don't usually bother with edge colouring as I feel it doesn't much improve the look of the end item...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also recommend spending some time burnishing the leather by hand just in general, using a cloth and light pressure but very quick movements over the edge you want to finish. Then try with different cloths, and dampen them a little, and then try with the tragacanth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! Any other questions I'll try to be sure to come back and check if this helped. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-07-20T22:25:00.360" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T22:25:00.360" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-07-25T05:06:18.403" Score="5" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of being able to dip my brush into the paint and then paint a shape in one shot, without having to go back over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experiments so far I am having to go over each line several times to stop the background colour from showing through the acrylic. Even when the background is only white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am painting on MDF which has been primed with an undercoat of shellac and then some spray paint over that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect I am going for is shown in this video of Keith Haring: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/VWRRQKwtB90?t=2m26s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/VWRRQKwtB90?t=2m26s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He never has to go over his lines because the colour is consistent for as long as he drags his brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I an thinking it largely has to do with the paint and the brush that I am using. But am yet to figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help wold be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2382" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T14:28:00.237" Title="How can I paint consistently coloured lines with acrylic paint?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3285" CreationDate="2017-07-25T19:08:21.463" Score="3" ViewCount="756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know about the process of 'ebonizing' wood (using steel wool + vinegar to turn wood black), and I have seen excellent results using this process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it is possible to use a similar method to stain wood blue instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was copper sulphate, then drying it off and maybe the crystals would form in the wood, making it look blue, but apparently it makes it green instead (understandable based on the green rust of copper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does anyone know of any chemicals that can be used to stain wood blue effectively? I would like to avoid using typical dyes or stains, as I find they can be very expensive and not always have good results, when ebonizing has worked wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2385" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T03:02:50.087" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T03:02:50.087" Title="Staining wood blue with chemicals" Tags="|wood|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3273" CreationDate="2017-07-25T21:47:19.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Asian calligraphers, I'm sure you've witnessed people painting characters or logograms with a brush and ink, make beautiful forms that need no touching up.  In the West we have a kind of painting called &amp;quot;Tole&amp;quot; that also uses multiple single strokes to create images, usually botanical but not limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the calligrapher and the Tole illustrator have common threads.  The brushes are soft and the medium is more liquid than paste.  The trick they master is to lift and lower the brush while making a stroke.  Lowering, or putting pressure on the hairs or bristle end, thickens the stroke and lifting thins.  Moving the brush along the surface determines the length and direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another trick they employ is to twirl the brush while lifting. Doing this with a tapered sable will leave a point where the brush left the paper.  This is a common way to end a letter or character stroke.  Tole painting also uses this technique when making single stroke leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many inexpensive Tole painting books can be found on Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2022-10-03T14:28:00.237" LastActivityDate="2022-10-03T14:28:00.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3281" CreationDate="2017-07-25T22:06:38.897" Score="2" ViewCount="5844" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frosted glass is specifically to diffuse an RGB LED lamp thing I made, so every scratch and other degradation on this thing so far is very prominent. There must be 8 coats of Rustoleum frosted glass spray on it. It's a very thick matte finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all the frosted glass tutorials out there, like on wine glasses, you would think a few of them would post an update that everything came off or otherwise looks terrible after a week, and perhaps a few would have shown how to solve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that whatever enamel or acrylic spray I apply will either add a gloss, or reduce opacity by filling in the surface and eliminating any light refraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only constraint is that I need to be able to buy it nearby at Walmart or Home Depot or something. I won't have time to order it online because it's a gift. Preferably a Rustoleum product because it's cheap. Would the American Accents Ultra Cover Matte Clear work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFLtO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFLtOm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/giQGL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/giQGLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Click on images to view full-sized version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2386" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-07-27T03:33:43.307" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T18:41:30.933" Title="How to protect/seal frosted glass spray" Tags="|painting|glass|preservation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3280" CreationDate="2017-07-25T22:43:45.187" Score="4" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a scarf/wrap, I am following a pattern that says &quot;Gauge: 25 stitches = 4 inches&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I am measuring the width, i.e. the number of stitches cast on, and not the number of rows? I always thought you count the number of rows..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2387" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T21:49:14.017" Title="How to interpret this gauge requirement?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3278" CreationDate="2017-07-26T04:02:05.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, the gauge is given in both stitches and rows, for example &#xA;&quot;Gauge: 10 sts/15 rows = 4 inches in stockinette (regular knit) stitch.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You rightfully care about gauge - and typically should always check it - to insure that your final product will have the correct dimensions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three elements of how to adjust your gauge are: &#xA;(1) needle size&#xA;(2) yarn weight, and &#xA;(3) tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adust any of the above to get the correct gauge.  Usually, the variable you will modify is needle size, since how you knit is just how you knit (the tension of your knitting is characteristic of how you knit).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight of the yarn is not usually something you want to change since you have carefully picked out your yarn in advance (and are making your gauge swatch from it!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your pattern does not stipulate the number of rows in the gauge, I recommend just checking the number of stitches in the row - the horizontal dimension, and adust to obtain the correct width. (note: As one commentator suggested, a scarf is one instance where the length may not matter as much as it would with a structured item like a sweater.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a more detailed, but simple, explanation and a good reference for checking gauge: follow:&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheepandstitch.com/what-is-knitting-gauge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheepandstitch.com/what-is-knitting-gauge/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and happy knitting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user1798" LastEditDate="2017-07-26T04:37:17.243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T04:37:17.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3277" CreationDate="2017-07-27T03:06:02.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your time and store restraints, I would agree with your choice of a rattle-can/spray can of matte clear coat.  I don't know the brands well enough to recommend one over another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the potential that the clear coat will reactivate the frosted coats, even if they are thoroughly dried and cured.  So apply very light coats from twice the recommended distance and allow each coat to dry before adding the next.  If the frosted coat does reactivate, it will mix with the clear coat and thus dilute or distort the frost.  The less of the clear coat you apply in each protective coat, the less chance of ruining your artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be wise to frost up another piece of plastic and after it dries, test the clear coat on it before risking your art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had more time, an art supply shop (or Hobby Lobby), and an airbrush, you would have more options.  Createx Airbrush paints has a product called Intercoat  which would be perfect for this situation.  It provides a non-reactivating layer to protect your existing artwork from the solvents in any paint or clear coat which you might apply over them.  Spraying a layer of Intercoat over your frost paint would lock it in place, allowing you to add a matte clear coat without any risk of reactivation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-07-27T03:12:51.540" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T03:12:51.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1887" CreationDate="2017-07-27T06:33:15.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently cutting bottles for crafts. I used a glass cutter and cut bottles by hand with boiling water and ice. It works if you have time. It was a waste of my time. I went to harbor freight and bought a 4 1/2&quot; tile saw for $50 and a smooth edge 4 inch blade. It cut right through it. I've now cut about 30 bottles on the same blade in about an hour. Smoother than the glass cutter and way quicker. If you have $50 then don't waste your time. Time is money!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2397" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-07-27T15:50:19.277" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T15:50:19.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3275" CreationDate="2017-07-27T08:33:33.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Methylene blue is a very effective water-soluble blue dye and you can buy it on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/25g-Methylene-blue-crystals-quality-Make-minerals-water/dp/B00B4ZRMNS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;amazon&lt;/a&gt; quite cheaply (the pack at that link is probably enough to dye a table and chairs). That might do the trick. It's also used for treating fish in tanks, so is quite benign.  The question becomes one of whether the water raises the grain too much given that the dyed layer is likely to be quite thin. It's also soluble in alcohols (including isopropanol, so surgical spirit/rubbing alcohol) which wouldn't raise the grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a quick test on a bit of scrap softwood using something like a 0.7 mmol/l aqueous solution (0.2 grams per litre of water).  It was brief enough to not raise the grain even where I left it on the longest:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QH3Nj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QH3Nj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've adjusted the colours to look about right on my screen. The wood was quite old and yellowed.  It had just about dried when I took the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left for 1 minute test was meant to simulate dip-coating.  I didn't hold it very steadily, so the unevenness below the &quot;p&quot; in the annotation was casued by the solution running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could work nicely, but you would want to make sure the wood is very white to start with, and stays that way, to keep it really blue instead of turning greenish.  This is probably true for any blue dye. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/get-the-color-out-with-wood-bleach&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article on bleaching wood&lt;/a&gt; implies that you can bleach the original wood with the right wood bleach, then neutralise and rinse and there shouldn't be any bleach left to react. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196995-Bleaching-Hard-Maple&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's some more discussion on bleaching and coating so it doesn't turn yellow&lt;/a&gt;; in summary: use a water-based varnish over the top so the varnish also doesn't turn yellow, though pine will yellow slightly whatever you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, test as much as you can on scrap (and the same type of wood) first, in particular if you decide to bleach then dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T08:33:33.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3335" CreationDate="2017-07-27T15:09:02.033" Score="2" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you know if there's some sort of interlocking plastic (or other material) mats that can be cut to any size and which is less than 1 inch (2.5cm) thick? Ideally probably 1 - 1.5cm thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to use this to hold together hobby electronics/robotics parts. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0ae3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0ae3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took an online class from a Russian instructor on robotics, and in Russia they sell this in their version of one of the electronics/robotics stores called Amperka (our version is called Arduino). However, it hasn't caught on in Western stores yet. I can't easily order it from Russia because of differences in the types of payment/banks they use, not to mention the shipping cost and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to search for this online but I can't find what I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastEditorUserId="2399" LastEditDate="2017-08-12T03:31:40.827" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T10:02:48.623" Title="Interlocking plastic, rubber, or foam product that can be cut to size?" Tags="|material-selection|plastic|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3275" CreationDate="2017-07-28T00:44:41.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there was discussion of indigo up in the comments, but that was based upon going through the entire process of growing the indigo, then fermenting it to use it as a dye.  Although there can be a lot pleasure in going through an entire process like that, there is no reason you would have to.  Indigo dye crystals (both natural and artificial) are inexpensive, readily available and easy to use (as opposed to many other natural dyes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used indigo on plywood, but it does a great job of dying basket reed, and is dark enough to make a blue color even though the reed is not white.  Here is a couple of pictures from an event I where I taught a basketry class.  You can see the color of the material, and a finished basket in the foreground.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Ugtr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Ugtr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of my students dipped their basket in the indigo dye pots (it was a weekend retreat--there were alot of crafty activities occurring).  Here is a picture of two baskets--the one in the foreground was only dipped once, the one that is darker blue was dipped multiple times. Ignore the yucky looking caked on stuff at the bottom--the basket maker was experimenting with the indigo foam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMLGX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMLGX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T00:44:41.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3288" CreationDate="2017-07-29T15:33:39.137" Score="7" ViewCount="2946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to create a metal ring without using any machine or drill. I'd like to use cheap, simple tools. I found two ways for creating it, and they are very simple but it seems like machines are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coin-ring &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEN-iqMlB3Q&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEN-iqMlB3Q&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nut-ring &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mx76zjFQe0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mx76zjFQe0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like you to tell me can I do the same thing without using machines or a drill. I'd like to use only simple and cheap tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is another simple way to create it, I'd love to hear it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2407" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T14:22:45.177" Title="How to create a metal ring?" Tags="|metalworking|metal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3286" CreationDate="2017-07-29T18:14:24.497" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do you need?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can make rings out of all metal that can be bent by hand and all that can be hammered into shape.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Wire comes in many sizes. Unless you have a hobby involving metal wire, you will likely not stock it. But a good metal shop will have a few kinds and can often order more for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No tools to bend:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The 'easy' way is to have wire which is very soft, the disadvantage is that it will not hold shape will when you have your ring.&#xA;Hammering and heat/cold treatment will improve that but it is a lot of extra work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clamps needed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For a cheap and easy ring, get metal that can not be bent easily, get a wooden dowel (or a round metal bar) and fix that into a clamp on a workbench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also clamp one end of the wire, it can be in the same clamp if you can get that working, but if needed you can do it with a second clamp.&#xA;Now take the long end of the wire and pull it round the bar, till you have a round turn and a bit, that is until the wire lays next to itself for at least a few mm and it does not spring open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will make you a ring which will have an opening, which can be closed by soldering or left open, specially if the ends are made showy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can saw through the wire, close the ring into a circle and solder that shut. (Check with the supplier of the wire for what you need to solder it, as different metals need different kinds of solder and chemicals to make them work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are an experienced metal worker you can keep the ends longer than just touching and shape them with whatever you want. (Or you can introduce extra materials like beads or stones, or lumps of metal molten to the ends.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No thick wire?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;With thinner wire you can do a series of full turns, solder them all together and have a ring that is wider than it is thick.  A more involved way to make a ring out of thin wire, not for beginner metal workers nor for beginner knot tyers if without an experienced coach, is a Turks Head Knot. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surreyknots.org.uk/images/53_Turk%27s_Head_4_Bight_X_3_Lead_.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here you find instructions for string.&lt;/a&gt; Search results for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.nl/search?q=knot%20chart%2063%20IKGT&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjz3OCblq_VAhWHJVAKHa0NCSsQ_AUICigB&amp;amp;biw=1299&amp;amp;bih=702#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=turks%20head%20ring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rings, most in silver and gold.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No wire?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Flat metal can be cut to size, hammered around the dowel and then soldered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat treathment (Warning, dangerous hot metal and fire danger):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Place your metal on stone that can take the heat and apply flame till the metal is red hot. Let if cool down naturally/slowly for a soft metal that will take further work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a fire that is hot enough, like when you burn coal to heat your house, you can use that. Even a barbecue at good working heat can be hot enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cool it down as fast as possible by letting it drop into cold water, and it will get harder and less likely to bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No heat?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Hammering will make metal harder but also more brittle and more likely to break if you do it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which metal?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you can afford it, silver will give you very nice results, also because the result will be real jewelry. I fear that gold will be out of reach for a while longer, it is rather expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had nice results with copper to play with but it will colour your skin and you should be aware that it has health risks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you buy metal and solder and so on, discuss it with the staff in the shop (if they are knowledgeable) or research on the Internet whether the metal can be used for day to day wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2020-09-09T14:22:45.177" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T14:22:45.177" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3293" CreationDate="2017-07-31T11:21:00.563" Score="6" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there an 'ideal' size to cut / store fabric for making clothes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do other sewers have an efficient system in place for cutting / preparing their fabric for future sewing projects?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many resources online providing methods of storing fabric stashes in a small living space. The focus of my question is on &lt;strong&gt;cutting, preparation, and planning&lt;/strong&gt;, rather than just storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am starting to build up a large fabric collection, which is a mix of different sizes/areas of material. I have large bolts of fabric (up to 4 metres long), smaller pieces like fat quarters, and also small off-cut scraps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started buying longer bolts of fabric when I realised that it can be tricky to follow patterns for clothing when you only have small scraps of fabric available. For example, when I want to follow a pattern for leggings, I need a length of fabric which is at least as long as the leg shape, plus extra length for hems etc. I purchased a few metres of fabric at a time in one continuous bolt for this reason, but have now realised that I am finding it difficult to store, wash, and cut. (One of the reasons I find the cutting difficult is because I have a small work space and the largest flat surface I have is just under 1m square. I have read about other sewers cutting out fabric on the floor, but the floor of my space is not suitable.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered cutting my large bolts of fabric into smaller pieces to help with storage, and this should also help me with cutting out, because I won't have long pieces of material drooping over the edge of my work space. However, I'm not sure if this is the correct solution, or if this will cause problems later on when I try to sew garments like leggings or trousers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2313" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T20:15:47.370" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T20:15:47.370" Title="Efficient cutting and preparation of fabric for sewing clothing" Tags="|sewing|cutting|clothing|fabric|preparation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3289" CreationDate="2017-07-31T14:29:39.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should keep your fabric in sizes that are at least at big as the &quot;average&quot; size for the type of garment you'll make out of it. Take a look at your patterns or browse a few online to get an idea of how much different projects take. If I'm buying fabric without a particular pattern in mind, my rule of thumb is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tops: 1 - 2 yards (sleeveless top - long sleeve tunic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottoms: 1.5 - 2 yds (depending on how long)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dresses: 3 yds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, these are just estimates -- there are certainly patterns that use less, but having more fabric gives you more options. Also note that you might need more of fabrics with nap or directional patterns to account for matching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; recommend cutting your fabric into smaller pieces. It will still take up the same volume, but now you might not be able to place your pattern pieces as efficiently, or at all if you cut it too small. If storage space is an issue, you could try vacuum-packed bags for fabrics that you won't use for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as cutting out pattern pieces, most sewists without a dedicated space just use the largest flat surface available -- a clean kitchen table or counter, the floor. I've even cut out pieces on my mattress before! You could try laying something on top of your floor or bed, like cardboard or &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KwhFV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;foam tiles&lt;/a&gt;, to make a stable surface. You can roll up the excess fabric to keep it from dragging off the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason for having enough space to lay out the pattern piece is to ensure that your fabric is not wrinkled, distorted, or misaligned. If you are very careful, you could roll it out and pin as you go (kind of like how quilters quilt). But it is easier and less error-prone to get a surface big enough for the biggest piece you will need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T14:29:39.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3289" CreationDate="2017-07-31T15:11:45.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't cut your fabric until you know what you're making out of it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is possible to &quot;piece&quot; fabric when your pattern pieces are larger than your fabric, it's a pain in the neck, and the results are never as nice as an un-pieced garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it can be nice to store your fabric pre-washed, so you can just grab what you need and start sewing, but it's not always practical to wash (and dry!) long lengths of fabric. In that case, it's better to store the fabric unwashed than to cut it into lengths that might then make it impossible to make what you need out of it. (One note from bitter experience: when you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; get around to washing your fabric, zig-zag or otherwise edge-finish the cut ends! It seems like a waste of time until you encounter that piece of fabric that turns into a tangled mess of matted threads in the dryer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as storing fabric, I tend to go by the philosophy that if it works for the fabric store, it should work for my stash, too. This means folding the fabric lengthwise (or leaving it folded that way, if it's such a long length that I haven't washed it), then folding/rolling it as if it were on a bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T15:11:45.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3289" CreationDate="2017-07-31T15:35:11.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would hesitate to cut my fabric into smaller pieces for storage, just because I can pretty much guarantee that as soon as you cut your fabric, the universe will send you the perfect pattern for that particular piece of fabric--but the pattern will require about 1/2 yard longer than your chosen cutting length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the reason I wanted to post an answer is because I just took a sewing class where my instructor insisted on teaching us how to cut fabric when you only have a small cutting surface.  The basic tenets were that you should NEVER let fabric hang over the edge of the table, as this can pull parts of your fabric off grain.  Instead we spent a lot of time folding and refolding unused and/or already pinned sections of fabric as we laid out our patterns in preparation for cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-07-31T15:35:11.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3289" CreationDate="2017-07-31T16:29:37.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; cut long lengths of fabric into shorter pieces for storage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from experience what lengths will be good for how and what I typically sew, and for me 2 yard lengths cover just about anything I need.  For you, it may be 3 yard and/or 4 yard lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wash and dry my fabric before cutting, then iron, cut, and fold for storage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I store my fabric by color family; I love having everything ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, when I didn't have a cutting table, I used my bed.  But be sure not to cut your sheets or bed coverings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two solutions for safely cutting on your bed are:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a thick &lt;strong&gt;plastic dining table protector&lt;/strong&gt; from Bed, Bath &amp;amp; Beyond (for example).  They come in several sizes and are easy to trim if you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These table covers are thick enough to protect your bedding and you can tightly tuck them around your bed to avoid wrinkles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/vinyl-table-pad-in-white/100331?Keyword=table%20pad&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vinyl table pad/cloth example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method is to buy a thick &lt;strong&gt;folding cardboard cutting surface&lt;/strong&gt; (Joanne's, etc.) that will fold open to a long length and the width of your fabric, and fold back up to easily store in your closet or under your bed.  This surface is stiffer and easier to work with than the table covers, but you may need to experiment to see which works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joann.com/prym-dritz-superboard-cutting-board/1025055.html#q=folding%20cutting&amp;amp;prefn1=prod_type&amp;amp;prefv1=Product&amp;amp;start=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Joann.com cutting board example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your fabric stash and happy sewing!  There is an old saying, “She who dies with the most fabric wins.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorUserId="2313" LastEditDate="2017-08-04T11:57:34.517" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T11:57:34.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3286" CreationDate="2017-08-01T17:51:40.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to make rings but they all suggest a tool budget.  I consider copper your best alternative.  It is malleable and soft, so you can hammer and bend.  As Willeke said, it will oxidize and leave green rings on your finger but, that can be prevented by coating with shellac, varnish, or a clear spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper is relatively inexpensive and can be had for free. A good source, for free copper wire, would be #12 or #14 electrical cut offs.  Cut offs can be found at most construction sites or ask an electrical contractor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strip the plastic sheaths from the copper electric  cut offs and play around.  Bend it, hammer it, or solder it and when that's done start designing. Perhaps you'd think about braiding a few inches and then hammering the braid flat. Cut the length appropriate to your finger size, bend it round and solder the ends.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You might also try epoxy resin for joining and maybe even encasing the copper in an epoxy shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T17:51:40.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2017-08-01T18:00:49.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than try to cut out the letters, maybe consider doing the reverse and cut out the background.  Your beer logo would be familiar to all, the mis-steps that will be magnified on cutout letters will diminish greatly with a background cut out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest the use of a drill and get rid of as much material before cutting with a saw.  After drilling as much as possible it becomes a connect the dots exercise.  Should work for letters or background cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T18:00:49.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3289" CreationDate="2017-08-01T18:12:51.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use my cutting board wherever the cutting takes place: table, bed, floor. The boards have numerous markings on them and helps amazingly to keep things aligned. Nothing worse than having fabric go off-grain because the off-grain piece is generally unsalvageable for the project. (Could be used for something else though; scraps are always handy to have.) Cutting boards also keep the fabric clean; I have pets so the floor can be chancy. :D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use my bed to cut out things. Even though I have a sewing room and a table next to a desk for optimum cutting space, at times I have those spaces in use for items that need cooling after heavy steaming on seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cutting using my bed as the cutting board, I always make sure it's &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; space I need because bending over to it will give me a back ache. It is best for wide cuts that require opening the fabric so the fold goes selvage to selvage instead of the usual fold from the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a way to raise it from the bed like with a series of boxes (all same height), that can help. I suppose you could raise the bed also; there are gadgets for that to increase under-bed storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea for cutting space when you have really large pieces to cut (like wedding dresses or evening gowns) is see if you can use the conference room table at your office. Another option is asking your local fabric shop (such as JoAnn Fabric) if they have a classroom you can borrow for an hour or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2420" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T18:12:51.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2017-08-01T18:47:01.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my cross stitch work, I machine stitch the edges all around with a zigzag (preferably a three-step). If by hand, I use a scaled down version of a blanket stitch. For something that will be washed, I would make the stitches closer though not as close as a buttonhole stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for worries about stitches coming loose, I have none. I learned as a youngster how to begin and end a stitching line (seam or embroidery) securely and invisibly (for nearly all items). I leave at least a needle's length of thread under an already stitched area, then stitch over where the needle came up about three times &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; not in the exact same place--angle your hand differently and use a different thread on the fabric each time. (Wish I had a picture; this sounds harder than it is.) I end the same way. I've used this technique on everything from wedding dresses to tents and never lost a bride or a camper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This craftsy link may help with other ways to fasten your thread. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/05/how-to-start-embroidery-without-a-knot/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/05/how-to-start-embroidery-without-a-knot/&lt;/a&gt; These techniques are also fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would stay away from any form of glue or tape. I've tried it in years past and found the results to be far less than satisfactory and unpleasant to work with during the stitching. And glue does deteriorate over time much faster than thread. And the sticky goop it leaves behind makes for a long cleaning story. ugh...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2420" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-23T20:50:50.493" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T20:50:50.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-02T17:14:12.433" Score="0" ViewCount="2700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying or sewing a new hooded garment that I would wear both for everyday occasions as well as general cosplay uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with wearing a robe (a full-length, hooded garment, with sleeves). I've never tried however a cloak (a full-length, hooded garment, without sleeves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What practical and aesthetic reasons exist for desiring or not desiring sleeves on such a garment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-10-24T19:58:09.877" LastActivityDate="2019-11-23T12:17:24.580" Title="What are the pros and cons of wearing a robe vs a cloak (sleeves vs sleeveless)?" Tags="|clothing|costume-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3299" CreationDate="2017-08-03T12:51:11.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/larp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;larp&lt;/a&gt; and always opted for coats/jackets rather than cloaks whenever feasible. Here are the considerations I used to make frequently about outerwear, listed from highest to lowest priority for myself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is easier to add useable pockets (whether hidden or visible)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitted garments with sleeves are less likely to get caught in doors or get accidentally stepped on (eg. when ascending/descending stairs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitted garments are likely to be warmer than a loose cloak in most cases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fastening a jacket/coat etc is easier and more secure than most cloak fastenings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cloaks are unusual in most modern cultures and will draw more attention than a sleeved garment, which may not always be wanted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to add that a lot of these pros/cons rely on subjective opinion and context. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some limited experience with sewing garments that have hoods, and have found it to be quite challenging to get the exact shape of hood that I want! I have found it comparatively easy to produce sleeves, so this is why I have not discussed whether &lt;strong&gt;sewing&lt;/strong&gt; a cloak or sleeved garment would be &lt;strong&gt;easier&lt;/strong&gt;, because in my opinion if you are making a garment with a hood, either option will be about the same difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2313" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T12:51:11.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3148" CreationDate="2017-08-03T15:51:39.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At university my drawing tutor used to encourage us to use the cheapest sketching materials we could find as he said it would encourage us to be more bold and less 'precious' with our work; the idea is that there should be less anxiety over mistakes because you haven't 'ruined' an expensive canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newsprint was great for me, mainly using charcoal (either pencils or sticks) in combination with white chalk. Additionally I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000RN3EOE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brown parcel wrapping paper&lt;/a&gt; as you can buy it in rolls and it has an interesting texture. These days I also save the scrunched up paper that sometimes gets used as packing materials when ordering products online (Amazon is great for this in the UK). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weirdest thing I ever used for drawing material was the inside of a cereal box. Once you're done with the cereal, carefully peel the glued edges of the box apart, without tearing it. Turn the box inside out and you have a really nice cardboard surface on which to draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2313" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T15:51:39.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3100" CreationDate="2017-08-03T16:32:14.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general order for treating leather, or at least the one which I use, is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cut and shape the raw leather.&lt;/strong&gt; As enderland pointed out, untreated (veg tanned) leather becomes quite supple when soaked and will retain it's form when dry (this technique is known as wet forming, and is probably how the sheath in your picture was shaped). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dye the leather.&lt;/strong&gt; For veg tanned leather water based dye will work just fine. I don't know much about other brands, but Fiebing's dyes have always worked well for me. Remember to wear gloves, as leather dye is unsurprisingly good at staining skin. &#xA;First soak the leather in water, then apply the dye with a rag or sponge. Soaking the leather first will help the dye to penetrate the leather deeper, instead of just staining the surface. This step is of course optional.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finish the leather.&lt;/strong&gt; There are different ways to do this, but the general idea is to work oils into the leather to stop moisture soaking in and rotting it. The traditional method (and the one which I use) is to polish with dubbin, a mixture of oil and beeswax. You'll find that the leather softens a great deal when the dubbin is worked in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finish the edges.&lt;/strong&gt; You can use Edge Kote, but burnishing with dubbin/pure beeswax and an edge slicker also works. This step is also optional, and you can do it before finishing the leather if you want to - it makes no difference. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assemble.&lt;/strong&gt; Leaving assembly until after all the parts are treated makes it much easier to ensure that you've definitely got into all the nooks and crannies of whatever you're making. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pair of images below show before and after photos of this process, from a recent project of mine. I'd post more (and links to other resources) but I don't have enough reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My leather is probably darker than yours, but that won't be an issue. I used Fiebing's Cordovan dye, undiluted, and dubbin to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TEna.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TEna.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Before&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjqFf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjqFf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T16:32:14.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3308" CreationDate="2017-08-05T10:06:40.527" Score="9" ViewCount="2799" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I got interested in painting in oil and acrylics (and other covering techniques), I came across the term 'underpainting', i.e. a painting under the actual painting, that sometimes exhibits color, and sometimes only the tonality of the image to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the underpainting is almost always completely covered once the painting is finished. So what is the purpose of an underpainting when you could also directly paint on the real image (supposing that I sketched out my design with graphite or charcoal)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T09:10:34.517" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T09:13:46.947" Title="What is the purpose of an underpainting?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-05T20:28:35.240" Score="7" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been drawing on canvas using Posca, Molotow, Montana Cans and MTN markers. I like to draw using black markers and applying colors afterwards. For the background colors, I use Ecoline, both with brushes or with and airbrush to create gradients. The good thing about water-based Ecoline is that it will cover only the white/raw portion of the canvas, keeping black traces 'untouched'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well the issue with Ecoline seems to be that it won't last/sustain over time. In my case, after three months of keeping the canvas (picture below) in a bright varanda without direct sun light, colors are almost 100% gone. I knew this could happen, but didn't know the impact of light would be so quick and severe. It is worth mentioning that a thin layer of varnish had been applied, but apparently it wasn't effective as a means of protecting/safeguarding colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are: considering my style of drawing (tracing with markers first, applying colors afterwards), are there any types of inks that I could use that will be more sustainable over time than Ecoline with the same characteristics (covering white or light portions of the canvas only)? In case so, what is it and would it also work with airbrushes? Are there types of varnish or other products that could 'lock' the colors on canvas more effectively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I have to change my style and apply color first using durable ink (like acrylic), and then drawing on top of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBX80.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBX80.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2433" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T21:20:41.023" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T21:20:41.023" Title="Water based ink durability on canvas" Tags="|medium-selection|watercolor|canvas|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-06T16:55:20.297" Score="3" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a floam recipe that will dry to a relative sturdy shape. I'm working on a puppet and I want to rough out the dimensions and proportions, and I want something cheap and light-weight. If the quality is high enough, I might just use it for the final build, but for now, I basically want to 'sketch' in three-dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a number of &lt;a href=&quot;http://parentingchaos.com/diy-floam/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;floam recipes&lt;/a&gt; on the web, but they are aimed at kids' entertainment, so they are advertised as basically non-drying when sealed away. I want one that dries, so that I don't deform the shape when I'm done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone offer a floam recipe that dries, and will be sturdy enough to carry around once finished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T21:51:59.167" Title="Drying floam for sculpting" Tags="|sculpting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3309" CreationDate="2017-08-07T10:53:55.013" Score="3" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to glue pieces of leather together, but I am looking for a glue that won't burn the leather or make it rigid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue will be applied on the edges, for a few millimeters long(4-5mm).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a brand of glue which fits the described scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1960" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T15:26:23.267" Title="Glue for leather parts" Tags="|adhesives|leather|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2017-08-07T14:06:57.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use under painting for a variety of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conventionally, it is useful for extremely faint variations in color, implied-texture or reflectivity.  In this respect, it is similar to adding a wash over a portion of the dominant color, as it subtly affects the final appearance without adding distinct brush strokes or delineations.   I find under painting to be slightly easier to control than washes because the pigments which I use for under painting are less dilute and therefore quicker drying than their wash equivalents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A less conventional usage is to mark the center point of a zone or to layout a grid upon an area which will ultimately be invisible in the final product, but is useful for determining proportions prior to the addition of the outer obscuring layers.  For example, when laying down shadows which are being cast by multiple identical objects and at nearly identical angles to the light source, it is helpful to have an almost invisible grid (like graph paper) present.  It helps me be more consistent and to adjust the angles with uniform variation between each of a series of shadow-casting objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final use for under painting is for low risk experimentation.  Laying out a rust pattern or a dirty spot on an otherwise pristine rendered subject is daunting.  You've finally got the thing looking exactly like you want and now you just need to scuff it up a bit to make it look more real.  But a little too much or even a little in the wrong spot will ruin your hard won rendering.  These are the moments that make brush hands quiver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is why I design my rust and scuffing before hand, to get it right before I add all the pretty paint and shine.  Then, if I have to go back and strengthen the abused area after it has become too pretty, I have the still barely visible tone of the under painting ( or at least my memory of it ) to guide my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2017-08-07T14:43:02.767" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T14:43:02.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2017-08-07T17:27:52.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;strong&gt;specialist leather glues&lt;/strong&gt; available that are ideal for this application (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=leather%20glue&amp;amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aleather%20glue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Amazon, for example&lt;/a&gt;), but if you don't want to buy glue just for one small join then ordinary &lt;strong&gt;contact adhesive&lt;/strong&gt; will do a good job. &lt;strong&gt;Epoxy resin&lt;/strong&gt; will also join the leather, but is less flexible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people also swear by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bargeadhesive.com/products.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Barge cement&lt;/a&gt;, but I've not used either so can't really comment as to their effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid superglue and PVA, which will both do a poor job of sticking the leather together and will make it brittle (superglue moreso than PVA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, bear in mind that gluing is normally not as strong as stitching or riveting; if you expect the join to be under any kind of tension I would recommend that you stitch or rivet it instead. (thanks to Matt for reminding me of this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources: experience, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hunker.com/13414949/how-to-glue-leather-to-leather&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.leathercraftlibrary.com/2015/02/04/adhesives-what-to-use-when-and-why/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/57007-best-glue-for-leather-on-leather/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2017-08-08T11:41:16.490" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T11:41:16.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3306" CreationDate="2017-08-07T19:21:34.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.miniscience.com/kits/slime/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;, adding more borax, starch or talcum powder will make the slime more rigid.  Also kneading the slime repeatedly with dry hands will extract moisture, further adding to the slime's ability to maintain its shape while air drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-08-07T19:21:34.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2017-08-08T07:04:28.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reasons I like to use underpainting when doing art in oil or acrylic are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes having small/subtle areas where the underpainting shows through can add interest to the painting. Some of the underpainting my not be so subtle, it can be vivid or even bright.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More layers of paint help the finished look. It can make your painting look cheap if it seems you are being skimpy with your paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a good way to build texture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper, unappealing, or leftover mixed colors can be used up first, which means saving money and is more environmentally conscious than throwing it away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending upon your support (canvas, wood, etc.) and its finish, meaning how porous it is, can determine how much paint will be sucked up. If you don't or can't add a layer of gesso, the underpainting can help seal the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once a painting is blocked in with an underpainting, details are easier to imagine and build on. This is especially true when it comes to the composition, shadows, and proportion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should regularly step away from your art to take a break and see it from a good viewing distance, which depends on the size, but at least 10 ft or more and the underpainting is easier to see, then the first step of a simple outline drawing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's good to practice, helps to figure out which brushes are working for that particular painting, and is way easier to make changes to both.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2442" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T07:04:28.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3317" CreationDate="2017-08-08T12:38:45.060" Score="14" ViewCount="47760" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making things that go in bottles (primarily beer), I want to add labels to the bottles. I like the look of matte paper labels such as those found on fancy wine bottles, but I'm having difficulty attaching the paper to the glass. Superglue and PVA soak through the paper and somewhat spoil the effect, while glue sticks don't do a good job of adhering to the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which glue should I use to attach paper to glass?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at all possible I'd like to avoid the need to rough up the surface of the glass. I could just use sticky labels, but they don't look nearly as nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T17:42:56.313" Title="Which glue should I use to attach paper to glass?" Tags="|paper|adhesives|glass|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3471" CreationDate="2017-08-08T13:16:36.930" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a sequin naïf.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sewing sequins on one at a time is laborious.  I see that one can use glue but I am sure the sequins shed like mad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can one use a pop rivet gun to attach sequins?  Are there special tiny rivets?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2446" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T16:46:42.783" Title="Sequins and pop rivets" Tags="|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3318" CreationDate="2017-08-08T14:48:47.437" Score="4" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make the head band in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5khPDgYkAn8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. It's not in English and I'm not familiar with that knitting style as I'm a beginner. Could somebody tell me the name of the knit stitch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2447" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-08-08T16:12:27.327" LastActivityDate="2017-10-09T15:44:08.807" Title="What is the name of this knit stitch?" Tags="|knitting|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3329" CreationDate="2017-08-08T14:51:45.857" Score="9" ViewCount="16019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am drawing a room, which is 10m x 10m (or whatever units). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am drawing it in one point perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I determine exactly where to draw the back wall? As in, how far back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhHXz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HhHXz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2448" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-08-08T16:02:27.370" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T02:43:15.443" Title="How to measure the distance to horizon line one-point perspective?" Tags="|drawing|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3313" CreationDate="2017-08-08T16:17:33.083" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;We make beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We occasionally make labels for that beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest, best cheapest way to attach the labels is... ready for this... you sure??? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know why, don't ask why. It works. You won't be able to wash the bottles without the label coming off but if you're brewing, by the time you're washing the bottle, you probably &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; the label to come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you're getting the entire label wet, it will evenly discolor but I haven't had major issues with the colors running or smearing. There's a helpful guide for it on &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onlinelabels.com/Articles/should-you-use-milk-to-stick-your-bottle-labels.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OnlineLabels.com&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. They even have a comparison photo of a sticker label next to a milk-application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4TAJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4TAJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Comparison of sticker to milk application&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, they want you to buy their labels, so they make it sound onerous to do the application process. We've done a full 5 gallon batch pretty easily, so don't be too concerned about it. And if you try it once and hate it, well... you could switch to sticker paper. Apparently a lot of people use Avery brand sticker labels (the ones you might use for mailing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on their instructions, they have you dip the paper in the milk... we found it was much easier to use a basting brush (or a cheap 1-inch chip brush from the hardware store) than to try to dip the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other options, see the related/identical question to this on our Homebrewing site - &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/questions/135/how-do-you-label-your-bottles&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://homebrew.stackexchange.com/a/6224/12387&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt;, specifically, talks about using milk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-08-08T18:18:44.737" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T18:18:44.737" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2017-08-08T17:36:43.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This pattern is done in moss stitch/seed stitch, which are two names for the same stitch.  There are plenty of resources on line for learning it, but it is really very simple:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast on an odd number of stitches (the odd number is really&#xA;important) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each row will be worked the same--start knit 1, purl 1, and repeat to the end of the row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you cast on an odd number of stitches, each row ends with a knit 1.  When you turn it around to work in the other direction, you work a knit right on top of the last knit stitch, and a purl on top of a purl stitch.  This creates this bumpy texture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zg9Fc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zg9Fc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knit stitches make a sort of V-shape on the front of the fabric.  Purl stitches make a horizontal line on the front of the fabric.  If you look at the picture closely, you can see that this fabric is made up of horizontal lines with Vs sitting directly on top of the lines. It is actually much easier to see the line of knit &quot;V&quot;s, if you look at a ribbed pattern*:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0uOp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0uOp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ribbing is made the same way as moss stitch, but you start out by casting on an even number of stitches. In this case, when you finish a row, you end with a purl stitch, and when you go back in the other direction, you work a knit stitch on top of that purl stitch, and then a purl on top of a knit stitch, all the way across. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ribbed piece has a lot of stretch to it, so it is often used for sweater cuffs, or the bottom of hats, etc. Moss/seed stitch does not stretch much, and will also make the fabric lay flat, rather than the curling you often get with stockinette stitch (all knit stitches in one direction, all purl in the other). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick hint I will add for newbies working moss/seed stitch.  When you get to the end of the row, and turn your work, your yarn will be in front of the work, in position for a purl stitch.  In order to work a knit stitch, you have to get the yarn to the back of the work, which you do by carrying the yarn underneath the needle to the back of the piece.  A problem that many new knitters run into is that they actually wrap the yarn over the top of the knitting needles to get it to the back of the work, and then when they work back to that end, they accidentally work this additional loop as if it was a stitch. This is also an issue when working the knit stitch in both directions (called garter stitch), and is the most common reason so many new knitters find that their pieces get wider as they work (and have holes at the edges). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Please note that the second picture actually shows a piece knit using brioche stitch, but it does such a good job of illustrating the ribbing pattern that I used it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ETA:&lt;/strong&gt;  As @jkadlubowska pointed out, the picture labeled Moss Stitch actually shows double moss stitch, meaning that you can actually see are two knit &quot;Vs&quot; and two purl bumps.  But just like the brioche stitch sample, I think it easier to see the knit Vs and purl bumps in this picture, so I am leaving it as is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-10-09T15:44:08.807" LastActivityDate="2017-10-09T15:44:08.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2707" CreationDate="2017-08-08T21:10:05.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of household items that are circular.  Consider the coins in your pocket, the cans on your shelf, the plates in the cupboard, any and all of these can be set onto your paper or canvas and traced around the edges to create circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wooden ruler can provide accurate diameters by using a push pin set at a desired distance and placing your pencil point on the outside edge and in line with your pin.  Much like the string but more manageable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ellipses and ovals are more challenging.  There are few if any lying around the house to trace, but there are multitudes on the internet you can call on, print and trace or transfer with carbon paper or graphite.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you want an ellipse to capture an image from life or an oval to make a decorative form increases or decreases the complexity.  Using downloaded oval prints will make a flying saucer unreal, but hoop earrings in a portrait will pass as will a wall paper design.  The viewer wants to believe the saucer picture and will detect a problem with perspective, whereas the earrings in a drawing are easily overlooked and the ovals on wallpaper design are subject to the artist's discretion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A circle on edge is a line and the higher the line is lifted the more elliptical the circle appears.  To prove this, draw a diameter line on a paper plate. Then place the plate flat on a table, diameter line down. With you looking directly at it's edge, lift the side closest to you and capture the image in your mind's eye.  At no point can I see a perfect ellipse as perspective brings the diameter line closer to you until the plate is perpendicular and becomes circular.  As you continue to flip the plate on edge, the diameter line will now move away from your eye and yet you still have an ellipse, but not an oval&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is this, unless you want a mathematically perfect oval your problems are multitude, but not impassable. Still,&quot;There ain't no easy way out!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T21:10:05.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-08T21:18:34.370" Score="5" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine is celebrating her birthday next week, and since she is kind of an art person, and I love giving hand made gifts, I decided to add some color to a white, plain umbrella. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched the web for instructions and one such can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/UMBRELLA-PAINTING/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables&lt;/a&gt;. Here the maker suggests using acrylic paint, which I believe would be prone to cracking due to folding the umbrella. After much research I however did find what seems to be the  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cosplay.com/showthread.php?t=261290&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solution&lt;/a&gt;. Here a user suggests using fabric paint, which is much more elastic. I have found a local dealer which sells Iberia fabric paint. I had in mind to use waterproof markers to outline the design I will be putting on the umbrella, then fill it with color using the above mentioned fabric paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have suggestions on other kinds of paint that are both waterproof and durable that could be used for this little project of mine? If I do end up using the fabric paint, do I still have to add a protective, waterproof layer on top of the fabric paint? If so, please feel free to leave any suggestion you might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2450" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:15:53.060" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:15:53.060" Title="Adding a custom paint job to an umbrella" Tags="|painting|paint|fabric|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3320" CreationDate="2017-08-08T21:36:16.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's an imaginative gift!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silk screen industry has been applying paint to fabric (umbrellas included) for some time. You might be able to by a small amount from a local shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inks (paints) used are reducible to some degree and may be your answer, as they are both flexible and impervious to water. Your timeline is problematic though, as it does not allow for experimentation and I will not give you a guarantee that one can paint with the medium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T21:36:16.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3306" CreationDate="2017-08-08T21:51:59.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Insulation foam expands to fill and has the qualities of lightness, rigidity, and low cost.  I believe it is also paintable. The drawbacks are messiness and the need to contain the foam.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were you planning to carve features?  If so, then simply fill a paper or styro foam cup, let dry and go to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also model a face in clay then make a two part plaster mold.  Remember to size the inside of the mold and apply a release, then fill the void with insulation foam.  No carving and the possibility of an army of puppets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I haven't overreached here, as I am not familiar with the &quot;floam&quot; material.  Please forgive any indiscretion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-08-08T21:51:59.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3097" CreationDate="2017-08-09T07:43:46.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working with all different types of glass on a daily basis for over 20 years, stained, frosted, fused, etc. I create mosaic art pieces using all sorts of different backings. For example: Glass on glass, glass on wood, glass on metal, glass on ceramic, glass on plastic, and the piece I'm working  on now is glass on egg shells. Yes, glass on blown out egg shells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years  I have tried everything from Elmer's school glue to contact cement, to hot glue guns and I have found that the best adhesive to attach any type of glass to any surface is &quot;Weldbond&quot;. It is the strongest, weather and water proof, a little goes a long way, dries clear glue. And best of all it's inexpensive. You can find it in any craft store for around $8.0o. I swear by it, I wont use anything else my glass pieces. I promise you wont be disappointed. Here are a few links, check it out for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Weldbond-All-Purpose-Glue/47657022&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Weldbond-All-Purpose-Glue/47657022&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00P94NRDE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Weldbond-8-50160-Universal-Adhesive-5-4/dp/B00P94NRDE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1502264340&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=weldbond+glue+mosaic+adhesive&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2455" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T07:43:46.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2017-08-09T15:26:23.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of stresses that the joined edges will be subject to, may determine your glue. Are you joining the leather end to end or like pages in a book?  Are you seeking whole cloth with one or two sides visible?  A fabric store will possibly carry your target product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you are attempting to join two edges to make whole cloth and if you  expect only one side to be visible then there is a strong yet flexible option.  Take a piece of nylon cloth or other sturdy fabric and cut it to length with a measurable amount of overlap on both sides.  Join the edges snuggly then apply your glue to the overlap and compress the binding strip for the drying time and you should have whole cloth with the binding on the reverse not being visible.   The glue will seep into the crevice created by the joint and will serve to hold the edges. To much glue will seep beyond the crevice and contaminate the finish side, so be cautious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T15:26:23.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3278" CreationDate="2017-08-09T21:49:14.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it does mean that you measure the width(stitches per inch) and ignore the height(rows per inch) when you check your gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, patterns that give a stitch gauge but don't give a row gauge will include how long/high to go before moving on to the next section. For instance the instructions for a hat might say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cast on 100 st., join in the round. &lt;strong&gt;Work in rib for 1-1/2 inches. Continue in stockinette until the work is 6 inches from the start.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1197" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T21:49:14.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3327" CreationDate="2017-08-10T15:47:38.773" Score="4" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a costume for an upcoming convention and the character that I am recreating has bandages that wrap all the way from his hands up to his shoulder (see image below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3A8z.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3A8z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer not to just wrap bandages all the way up my arm every time I wanted to use the costume and so was wondering if anyone had any experience or advice on sewing bandages, as I've found that they don't sew or hold together very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence I'm just looking to know what the best way of creating a reusable bandage sleeve would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2464" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T19:06:15.713" Title="Advice on sewing bandages?" Tags="|sewing|costume-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3326" CreationDate="2017-08-10T18:55:48.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple options appear for your objective. Substitute sewing with fabric glue and apply sparsely. Most bandages of the sort you have pictured are elastic and would not take well to sewing, as you've noted. By the same token, they would also not take well to heavy adhesive application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One would apply dots of adhesive spaced along the edges where overlapped, allowing the stretchy part to stretch, while keeping the glued portions small and spaced closely enough to avoid gaps but not so close as to eat up the stretch required for a good fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One would desire to keep the stretch forces to a minimum while applying the bandages on a suitable model arm and secure the bandages as needed with tape or similar products while the glue cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing would be desirable to determine how much stretch the glue can handle before failing, then adjust spacing accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to use a carrier sleeve and glove, perhaps slightly oversized if such a factor is not a problem. The sleeve would reduce or prevent the stretching while either stitching or adhesive would secure the bandages in the desired locations. A suitable model would accelerate the process, as noted above. I don't believe it would be a simple matter to machine stitch on a sleeve and hand-stitching would require patience and determination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T18:55:48.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3316" CreationDate="2017-08-10T23:26:05.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the following explanation I had to make some assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Room is 10 x 10 x 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had to assume a distance (station point) for the observer a fixed distance from the object. Need to know how far the observer is from the object being viewed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are looking for a one point perspective solution for where to place the back wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is modified from the book &quot;Anatomy, Perspective and Composition for the Artist&quot; by Stan Smith, Dover Publications Inc., 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxEW7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxEW7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T23:26:05.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3316" CreationDate="2017-08-11T00:30:44.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This solution will work any shape of room you have. Cubic, rectangular (as I demonstrate), and even rooms you aren't looking at from straight on (in which case you rotate the top elevation, a common perspective technique).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Click on any image for a larger view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Layout the general lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) You need three horizontal lines: your horizon line, a ground line (somewhere below the horizon), and a vantage line. In this example, my vantage line is below the ground line. &lt;strong&gt;The vantage line represents the distance of the viewer from the horizon.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b) You also need to choose a &lt;strong&gt;vanishing point&lt;/strong&gt; somewhere on the horizon line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c) You can pick a vantage point, but in this case its only purpose is to establish where to put vantage line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;d) Draw the &lt;strong&gt;front elevation&lt;/strong&gt; of your room, with the scale dimensions. The front elevation needs to rest its &lt;em&gt;bottom&lt;/em&gt;-most line (or point, if rotated for 2-point perspective) on the Ground Line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;e) Draw the &lt;strong&gt;top elevation&lt;/strong&gt; of your room, with the scale dimensions. The top elevation needs to be under the Vantage Line, with its &lt;em&gt;top&lt;/em&gt;-most line (or point, if rotated for 2-point perspective) on the Vantage Line.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;f) Draw the front view of your room, aligned with both the front and top elevations&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g5z3V.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g5z3Vm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The real trick to this technique is mapping the angles between corners to the &lt;strong&gt;Measuring Points&lt;/strong&gt; on the Horizon Line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) From a bottom corner of your top elevation, draw a line going through the &lt;em&gt;opposite&lt;/em&gt; corner (such as bottom-left to top-right) and continue that line all the way to the Horizon Line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b) Where those lines intersect, mark that point as a Measuring Point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c) Repeat for the other bottom corner&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wjuze.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wjuzem.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw your normal perspective lines on your room&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) Don't worry about the back wall quite yet, just make sure your perspective lines go either all the way to the vanishing point, or far enough that you can be reasonably sure you have room for your back wall&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f88XQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f88XQm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now the technique comes into play. You'll use the Measuring Points to map a &lt;strong&gt;projection&lt;/strong&gt; to tell you where the back wall begins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) From a bottom corner of your perspective room, draw a line to the matching Measuring Point. So, if you pick the bottom-right corner, draw a line towards the Measuring Point that connects to the bottom-right corner of your top elevation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b) Where this new line intersects your normal floor perspective lines represents the corner of your back wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c) You don't need to map the other bottom corner, unless you're drawing a room/shape that doesn't have parallel front and back walls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;d) Draw a horizontal line from the back corner you measured to the other side of the floor&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmJJE.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmJJEm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Standard perspective techniques will give you the top of the back wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) Draw vertical lines from the bottom corners, and the points where they intercept are your ceiling's back corners&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDaPF.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDaPFm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go over your final guidelines and clean it up!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) You're done!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sxuYj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sxuYjm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-08-11T01:15:19.803" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T01:15:19.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3336" CreationDate="2017-08-11T16:14:02.230" Score="2" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;So Halloween is approaching, and I'm thinking about sitting on the porch to pass out candy, except wearing a &lt;a href=&quot;http://forgottenrealms.wikia.com/wiki/Mind_flayer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mindflayer&lt;/a&gt; costume, because there is only one day a year when scaring other peoples kids is acceptable (but only if you give them candy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of starting with this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00K82SMQO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ood mask from dr who&lt;/a&gt; and fabricating extra tentacles out of rubber snake toys, but I also want the mask to look like it's covered in slime like a regular octopus would be. I had entertained the idea of using petroleum jelly, but that would be gross and greasy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I cover the mask with so that it looks wet and oozy while still being at least somewhat comfortable and dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2472" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T11:16:06.107" Title="What sort of materials can I use to make a latex mask look wet without actually being wet?" Tags="|material-selection|costume-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3333" CreationDate="2017-08-11T18:43:08.700" Score="5" ViewCount="1856" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What would be a good darning or embroidery technique for fixing the frayed/missing edges on the sleeves of a machine-knitted cardigan?&lt;/strong&gt; The cardigan material is 100% wool (see picture below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JKcIb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JKcIb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detail of sleeve fraying damage on 100% wool cardigan &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that techniques exist for using knitting or crochet to fix holes in knitted garments, but I am not skilled in these techniques, whereas I do have experience with embroidery. I am looking for a type of stitch or technique that will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prevent the sleeves from fraying further&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;straighten out the edge of the sleeve so it looks less uneven / ragged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be creative / aesthetically pleasing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first idea was to use something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.embroidery.rocksea.org/stitch/blanket-stitch/blanket-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blanket stitch&lt;/a&gt;, but I anticipate that this will preserve the ragged edge to the sleeve, as in the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13pJE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13pJE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Estimate of how a blanket stitch would look along the edge of a frayed sleeve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a technique that would 'fill in' the missing material, similar to darning. However, most examples of darning I can find work with a hole that is surrounded by material, whereas I want to fill in a missing edge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oKLu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oKLu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2313" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T13:20:57.633" Title="Creative embroidery technique to fix a damaged knitted sleeve" Tags="|sewing|clothing|upcycling|embroidery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3331" CreationDate="2017-08-11T23:31:08.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is not an embroidery solution per se, but what about binding the edges of the sleeve with something like a light weight felt (use real wool felt, not the kind you played with as a kid), and sewing the binding in place using a saddle stitch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about losing the elasticity in the cuffs, you could also use knit bias tape, which should allow you to retain some of the stretch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still hunting for a picture that shows something similar to what I am imagining. If I find one, I will add it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, hunting for photos led to another possibility when I stumbled on this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tX1pa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tX1pa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously that is a lot more embroidery than you are talking about--but what if you did some sort of embroidered embellishment around the sleeve edges to disguise the uneven edges?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before starting either of these options, I suggest sewing a line of stay stitching about 1/2 inch from the cuff edges to help prevent additional raveling.  If you have access to a sewing machine, I would use that, as it will be more consistent, but you could also use a line of running stitches done by hand to accomplish the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA:  Still no pictures of a bound sleeve, but here is another idea.  What about using a beaded blanket stitch, something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8tG7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8tG7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beads will be irregular anyway, so the unevenness of the edge should be much less noticeable. I would use larger beads and a heavier thread/embroidery floss.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still not able to find a picture of exactly what I am talking about, but I did find a picture of a similar type of treatment that could also work.  This woman was sewing a boiled wool jacket (you can find her blog entry &lt;a href=&quot;http://fitforartpatterns.com/helpful-hints/boiled-wool-sweater-jacket/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), and wanted to add some embellishment to the sleeve cuffs.  So, she cut a strip of fabric the correct length to go around the cuff and used decorative stitches to topstitch the new fabric to the outside of the jacket cuff. Because boiled wool/felt won't ravel, you don't have to worry about the edges of this additional piece.  You could do something similar with your sweater cuffs-creating an outer cuff of felt and attaching that to the outside of your sweater cuffs to hid the raveled edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cfg4A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cfg4A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-10-03T14:41:36.603" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T14:41:36.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3316" CreationDate="2017-08-12T02:43:15.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this technique is different enough from my other answer, I felt it warranted a separate answer. This technique allows for more accurate control over distances from the object, making it easier to get a feel for the space you'll be creating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/od9tB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/od9tB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay down your &lt;strong&gt;horizon line&lt;/strong&gt; and pick a point on it to be the &lt;strong&gt;vanishing point&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly draw the &lt;strong&gt;center of vision&lt;/strong&gt; by marking a vertical line from your vanishing point down to the bottom of the page&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly draw your horizontal &lt;strong&gt;ground line&lt;/strong&gt; at some point below the horizon&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything on this ground line is at the scale you decide, and determines the measurements of all other lengths at different distances&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deciding where to put this line is up to you composition, so if you want a room 20 feet wide and 15 feet high to take up half the width of the page, and with the ceiling above the horizon, position the line accordingly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw your horizontal &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Picture_plane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; somewhere below your ground line&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This can be drawn at any arbitrary distance from the ground line, even on another sheet of paper temporarily attached to the bottom of your drawing proper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As long as you're able to align the center of vision across your workspace, it doesn't matter how far off from the main drawing surface that you work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a scaled-down &lt;strong&gt;top elevation&lt;/strong&gt; view of your room below the measuring point&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The top elevation is scaled based on the distance you want the observer to be from the object&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Essentially, base this scale on the amount of space you have to work with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark a point for your &lt;strong&gt;vantage point/station point&lt;/strong&gt; below the picture plane, below your top elevation, and on the center of vision&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The distance of the vantage point to the picture plane determines the observer's distance from the object in perspective&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the example, I measured at a distance of two scaled room lengths from the &#xA;picture plane, to demonstrate that the distances below the picture plane are all at a separate scale from those above the picture plane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw lines connection opposing corners of your top elevation, in order to determine their angles for your &lt;strong&gt;projection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw lines parallel to the lines you just drew, but start from the vantage point and end where they intercept the picture plane, and mark these points as your &lt;strong&gt;measuring points&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a perfect cube, you simply draw 45° angles from the vantage point, but for other shapes you need to use the actual angle found by connecting opposite corners &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the example, a room twice as long as it is wide has an angle of 63.435°, but you don’t need to know the angle, as long as your measuring line from the vantage point is parallel to line you can draw between corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the only thing that matters is that angle, you this means you can draw your top elevation anywhere below the picture plane where it's convenient to get the parallel lines (I happened to position mine centered along the center of vision, on top of the vantage point, but it's not necessary)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;9&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly draw a vertical guideline from each measuring point to the horizon line to determine your &lt;strong&gt;angular vanishing points&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Of note, all similar angles in your drawing will have these same measuring lines, so you only need to determine the points once per unique angle (all objects twice as long as wide will use the same points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw as much of your perspective object as you can, which at this point is the face and the vanishing lines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From one corner of your object, draw a line connecting it to the matching vanishing point you just determined to mark your &lt;strong&gt;angular vanishing line&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where this angular vanishing line intersects the vanishing line for the face of the opposite side is where your back wall will begin&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You only need to determine one such point, if your back wall is similar and parallel to your front, since you can derive all other corners from it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T02:43:15.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3284" CreationDate="2017-08-12T10:02:48.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that Matt's suggestion of what is called plastic mesh is likely to be the best find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktDno.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktDno.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;plastic mesh&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image above shows a typical product known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.consumercrafts.com/store/details/catalog/basics-plastic-canvas/33418-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7 mesh plastic canvas&lt;/a&gt;, for 7 holes per inch and lists as being 13.5 by 10.5 inches without a thickness reference. I've seen this material in the past and found it to be about 2 mm, perhaps slightly thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another site has similar material, a wide selection, including some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.everythingplasticcanvas.com/plastic-canvas-5-mesh-1325-x-22-mrp-p20123.aspx?k2=y2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5 mesh plastic canvas&lt;/a&gt;. That particular product must have rather large openings, allowing for an approximate 5 mm between holes! As such, it's likely to be stiffer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T10:02:48.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3330" CreationDate="2017-08-14T11:16:06.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main things that make objects look wet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The glossy, reflective finish that water has&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shape and depth of the water - you can see not just the surface of the water, but the surface of the object below it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything that satisfies these properties will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you probably want the tentacles to remain flexible, I would recommend &lt;strong&gt;clear silicone sealant&lt;/strong&gt; to make the volume of the ooze, adding drops to the end of tentacles etc, followed by a coat of &lt;strong&gt;flexible gloss varnish&lt;/strong&gt; for the reflective finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T11:16:06.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3338" CreationDate="2017-08-14T16:27:51.747" Score="7" ViewCount="44473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/search?q=melted%20bottle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these cheese plates, art, spoonrests etc.&lt;/a&gt; are made of melted glass bottles. Is it possible to melt these in a normal household oven? Or do you need something like a kiln?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is possible is it safe and how many hours would it take? Has anyone done it before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T00:08:23.503" Title="Is it possible to melt a glass bottle without a kiln?" Tags="|glass|kiln|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3337" CreationDate="2017-08-14T16:55:59.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass has a melting temperature of around 1400-1600°C (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://hypertextbook.com/facts/2002/SaiLee.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; ), and most household ovens top out at around 200-250°C so &lt;strong&gt;no, you cannot melt glass in a normal home oven.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T16:55:59.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-14T18:56:14.987" Score="4" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Canon All-In-One Photosmart printer can't be repaired and I still have ink in the cartridges. Can I use the ink from the Photosmart inkjet cartridges for my dip calligraphy pens or with paint brushes?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2484" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T19:08:17.200" Title="Can I use the ink from the Photosmart inkjet cartridges for my dip calligraphy pens?" Tags="|painting|calligraphy|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2017-08-14T23:21:14.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of your set you can use the colours themselves I don't have a blender and even though I use caren d'ache I prefer to use a white pencil apposed to water I find this easier than buying a blender as well and doesn't compromise the colour like water might. I have previously found that blenders are very hard to use so by building up the colors in layers you can blend them with each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2485" LastEditorUserId="2485" LastEditDate="2017-08-18T11:11:42.357" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T11:11:42.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3343" CreationDate="2017-08-15T16:25:46.083" Score="6" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner artist, and have been exploring the medium of soft pastel for some time now and I absolutely love it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I was looking into different kinds of easels and which one to buy. But I noticed that the tripod easels (even the ones that are specifically made for pastels) don't come with any boards, they just come with an horizontal metal or wooden piece to place the canvas on it, and a top piece to hold the canvas in place. But this does not really work for me since I paint on soft pastel paper and need to apply some pressure on it, so I will need some support for the back of the paper like a board or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00JMNQPSW&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is the easel I want to buy on amazon, it is cheap and sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is how do pastelists use such tripod easels for their art, and what can I do to make this easel fulfill my requirements?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2488" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-08-16T00:58:19.160" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T00:58:19.160" Title="How can I use soft pastels with an easel?" Tags="|tool-selection|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2017-08-15T16:47:53.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use a drawing board. When I was in high school we used these for our drawings and paintings all the time whether using an easel or sitting at a table. It allows you to easily move the paper around without touching it as much and gives you something to hold onto. I remember we taped the paper down to the board to keep it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01K224UQK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; an example of a similar easel on Amazon and it includes an image of a drawing board to illustrate how it's used (it doesn't include the board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BKBsx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BKBsx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Easel with drawing board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T16:47:53.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3346" CreationDate="2017-08-16T12:40:33.200" Score="2" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always wanted to craft a small bag out of leather for myself, and I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=leather+tools&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiH6fjg4tvVAhWCJCYKHSGRCJUQ_AUICygC&amp;amp;biw=1855&amp;amp;bih=953&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;so many different tools&lt;/a&gt; to use for leather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a beginner, what types of tools would you recommend? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any great beginner tool sets that you know of that aren't very expensive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T16:51:05.703" Title="What is a good set of tools for a beginner in leather working?" Tags="|tool-selection|tool-identification|leather|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-16T15:01:39.980" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to print my own custom vinyl stickers at home and don't want to spend the money for an expensive printer exclusively for printing on vinyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other solutions for printing vinyl stickers that don't require purchasing a specific printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2464" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-10-10T15:09:44.377" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T15:22:07.517" Title="Are there any cheap tools available for printing custom vinyl stickers?" Tags="|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-10-11T22:30:53.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3344" CreationDate="2017-08-16T15:06:50.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specific tools you need will depend on exactly what you want to do and the material you're working with; the list below covers both the tasks required to make a bag and the tools necessary to complete them, and assumes that you're using normal, veg-tanned, undyed leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Task: Cutting&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need some way of cutting the leather to shape. I like to use an &lt;strong&gt;ordinary scalpel&lt;/strong&gt;, with a fresh blade, but a &lt;strong&gt;craft knife&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Stanley knife&lt;/strong&gt; will also do. You'll also need &lt;strong&gt;something to cut on&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;steel ruler&lt;/strong&gt; to keep your lines straight. For thin (&amp;lt;2mm) leather, chunky fabric scissors will also work but won't leave as neat an edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Shaping&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Veg tanned leather can be moulded by soaking it in &lt;strong&gt;water&lt;/strong&gt; (which I assume you have access to) and forming it to the desired shape. No additional tools needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Task: Sewing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To attach your bits of leather you'll either need to sew or rivet it together. If you're sewing you'll need a &lt;strong&gt;pricking iron&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;awl&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;stitch punch&lt;/strong&gt; to make holes in the leather (you can't just sew straight through with a needle like you can with fabric) and a thick &lt;strong&gt;needle&lt;/strong&gt; and strong &lt;strong&gt;thread&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want a &lt;strong&gt;stitch groover&lt;/strong&gt; to make a groove for the stitching to sit in. This keeps it from sticking out above the surface of the leather, which helps protect the stitching from wear and tear (think the stitching on the soles of shoes, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Task: Riveting&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead you want to rivet the leather, you'll need an appropriately sized &lt;strong&gt;hole punch&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;hammer&lt;/strong&gt;, or a pair of &lt;strong&gt;punch pliers&lt;/strong&gt; to make the holes for the rivets to go through. You'll then need &lt;strong&gt;rivets&lt;/strong&gt; to go in these holes and a &lt;strong&gt;rivet setter&lt;/strong&gt; or pair of &lt;strong&gt;rivet setting pliers&lt;/strong&gt; to fix them in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above tools are all that are strictly necessary for a functional item; those below will help make it look better and last longer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Task: Finishing &amp;amp; Dyeing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of different ways of finishing leather, but most come down to some combination of &lt;strong&gt;dyes&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;oil based finish&lt;/strong&gt;. For more information, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3100/how-can-i-treat-leather-with-dyes-and-keep-it-protected?rq=1&quot;&gt;this previous question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Task: Edge Finishing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's normal to bevel and slick the edges of a piece of leather using &lt;strong&gt;edge bevellers&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;edge slickers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Task: Embossing &amp;amp; Carving&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To emboss (technically deboss, as the design is lowered not raised) you'll need &lt;strong&gt;stamps&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;hammer&lt;/strong&gt;. Carving can be done with any kind of &lt;strong&gt;knife&lt;/strong&gt;, but there are specialist knives specifically designed for it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Task: Lining&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to line your bag with a layer of fabric, then you'll need &lt;strong&gt;fabric scissors&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;needle &amp;amp; thread&lt;/strong&gt; as a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where you live, so can't recommend any brands to you, but I personally buy from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leprevo.co.uk/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LeProvo&lt;/a&gt; here in the UK. Their site also contains pictures of all the tools listed above, which should help you to match their names to their forms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T15:06:50.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3344" CreationDate="2017-08-16T16:51:05.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on whether you are a beginner who expects to continue and is starting to build up a collection of tools, or whether you are a beginner who wants to make a single item and does not expect to do more in leather for several (or many) years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that last, making one item only, you do not need much.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After you have chosen your leather you can find the tools you need in your house as far as there and only buy the bare essentials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pair of scissors or a knife that can handle the leather.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Something to make holes for your stitching. (Depending on the kind of stitching and the leather it can even be the needle you are sewing with.)&#xA;Yarn (or string, leather strip or whatever you want to sew with.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Helpful can be a couple of clothes pegs or other items that can hold the leather together without making holes, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binder_clip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;binder clips.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to sew with yarn, you will need a needle that is up to the work. The special leather needles, with the triangular sharp points, are likely the best. But if you punch holes with an other tool, any needle that fits through the holes and can hold the yarn you need is good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stitching_awl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A (stitching) awl&lt;/a&gt; is the tool mostly used to make small holes in leather, as well as in other materials, some people have tools in the house that can do the same job. At work we have a small former schrewdriver which has been ground to a point. Would do the work in leather that is not too hard.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When working with yarn in leather, it is good to pull your string over a piece of wax, or a wax candle, but you can do without if you do not have it. The wax will make the yarn stronger and get less damaged in sewing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stitch with leather laces, you will need to make holes which are big enough for your lace.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you do an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.nl/search?q=leather%20punch&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj3uZC5mdzVAhUmC8AKHd97B0EQ_AUICigB&amp;amp;biw=1299&amp;amp;bih=702&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image search on 'leather punch'&lt;/a&gt; you will find a series of pictures, if you need to make many holes, I would use one that works with a hammer rather than the kind that looks like pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to use a tool once, like to add a closure to the bag, you can think of going to a place that has them, like a shoe repair shop or a saddlery. Or a well equiped school crafts room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T16:51:05.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3249" CreationDate="2017-08-16T18:11:28.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vanishing point, provided the parallel lines are on the ground plane, is on the horizon and it will always be eye-level . The horizon can be looked at as the sum of all of the vanishing points. For someone standing at 5'7&quot; the horizon is 2.9 miles away from the viewer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is possible the curve you see above is because the ground is not flat (relative to the curve of the earth,) ie. there is a slight hill there, or the line of the shore is not perfectly straight. The curve of the Earth is so gradual you will not see its effect from the ground. So unless those shacks are over 2000 feet apart the horizon is not 2.9 miles away in this image. Keep in mind the camera lens has a big part in how distorted the perspective becomes. Think of a picture from a fish-eye lens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to get the kind of perspective effect you are talking about, where you are fitting an exaggerated perspective onto the drawing plane, you &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; use curved lines. This is called Spherical or Curvilinear Perspective. M.C. Escher is a great artist to study to see this technique in action. The fish-eye lens distortion previously mentioned is a perfect example of spherical perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curvilinear_perspective&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia entry for Curvilinear Perspective&lt;/a&gt; is a bit dry. But &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treeshark.com/treeblog/?p=301&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is a nice artistic perspective&lt;/a&gt; on it, pun intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2017-08-16T18:20:01.427" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T18:20:01.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2634" CreationDate="2017-08-16T18:41:23.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use light gels (clear colored film that is used to add color to spotlights and such) layered behind clear acrylic. Not sure what glue to use to attach but spray mount would probably work. Gels come in a huge range of super saturated colors, can withstand the heat of lamps, are flexible and easy to work with and are relatively cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T18:41:23.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3326" CreationDate="2017-08-16T19:06:15.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a reusable costume some kind of support underneath the 'bandages' would be a prerequisite. It could be a neutral color that matches, or something sheer if you want to show skin under wrappings. That would overcome the fragility of the bandage material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mummy like wrappings cheese cloth might work better than ace bandages, but any kind of cotton gauze should work. Since the gauze is a very loose weave, tacking the material using hand stitching should be fairly quick and forgiving... or perhaps a widely spaced machine stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: just had a thought. You could paint muscles or bones or something onto the support before sewing on the bandages to add a level of gore/spookiness to the sleeve as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T19:06:15.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3127" CreationDate="2017-08-16T19:13:27.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you add water to the pans you should agitate it a bit with the brush to get more color into suspension. There is no time delay, it is just a matter of how much pigment gets mixed with the water before you apply it to paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T19:13:27.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3069" CreationDate="2017-08-16T19:22:55.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is to pre-stretch the paper before painting, and leave it stretched until dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pre-stretch, wet the paper evenly, then tack down the corners to a drawing board with some slight tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using water activated tape (paper tape) tape the edges of the paper to the board with 1/4&quot; to 3/8&quot;s overlap on the paper smoothing out the tension as you go. You may need to reposition the pins as the paper flattens to the board. Regular art tape or masking tape will not work since the water undoes the adhesive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it is taped down let it all dry, and be sure to let the work dry after its done before removing it from the board. It should remain flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem I have found with this is getting the paper tape off the edges of the water color paper. Sometimes it snaps off nicely, more often it remains behind so I just cut it off the board at the papers edge. If someone has a solution for this that gets the tape off and leaves a nice clean edge I would love to hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T19:22:55.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3337" CreationDate="2017-08-16T19:36:23.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to slump glass into a form then, your oven, which can reach temperatures of 500 degrees may not be the answer.  That said you could use your oven to raise the temp of the glass, remove it and use a propane torch with mapp gas to complete the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a convoluted and potentially harmful/dangerous method, so plan your strategy well, WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR, AND BE SAFE!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T19:36:23.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="389" CreationDate="2017-08-16T19:49:42.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick to painting on plastic, is to reduce the static electricity.  This can be done with a damp rag leaning against the object.  Once the static charge is controlled you can paint with enamels. Enamel finish will be semi-permanent, need no primer, washable, and glossy.  You'll also have a variety of colors which mix and blend readily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T19:49:42.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-16T23:04:07.780" Score="3" ViewCount="2796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make decorative &quot;flower&quot; plates layering different shapes &amp;amp; sizes to be hung on a wall or attached to a post in the garden, Each weighs approx 4- 5 lbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use either metal heavy duty picture hangars or PVC pipe elbow. I'm having trouble adhering both to the backs of glazed ceramic dishes.  I've tried E6000 clear glue, GE clear silicone for Windows &amp;amp; doors, Fuze It &amp;amp; PL500 landscaping construction adhesive. All cure for 48 hours and fail to stay on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21w4k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21w4k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2497" OwnerDisplayName="Susan M" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-08-17T12:17:06.463" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T03:19:28.920" Title="How to adhere adhesive to glazed ceramic?" Tags="|adhesives|ceramics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3355" CreationDate="2017-08-17T00:01:04.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google &quot;structural epoxy for glass&quot;. I use structural epoxies weekly, and it's hard to find something they can't permanently adhere to. I'd give product recommendations, but I don't think it's allowed, and you'll want to find something local anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="NPM" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T00:01:04.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2017-08-17T06:03:56.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The underpainting is for glazing. You put transparent pure color very thinly over your underpainting, dry, glaze, dry, glaze. These thin washes add volume without eliminating or covering up the underpainting. If you use white paint with any colors, it's no longer translucent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2493" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T06:03:56.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-17T10:52:08.233" Score="2" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been given a set of unused standard straight-sided coffee mugs with an out-of-date brand on them. &#xA;The branding appears to have been screen-printed on then fired, so its impossible to remove (It's made from glaze)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to either cover this up with another brand or remove it. &#xA;the new finish must be dishwasher safe, or removable (a sleeve?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible? What with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2494" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T14:23:35.103" Title="Re-branding ceramic tea/coffee mugs" Tags="|ceramics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3358" CreationDate="2017-08-17T14:23:35.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a vinyl cutter, or are patient enough and talented enough to manually cut out your new brand from adhesive vinyl, there are several which are both dish-washer and food safe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also dish-washer safe acrylic paints but I don't know how food safe they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T14:23:35.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2519" CreationDate="2017-08-17T17:31:52.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I use two or more colors, &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;first:&lt;/strong&gt; I use the same kind of yarn, if one yarn is thinner than another that is a problem, and the project can shrink. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Second:&lt;/strong&gt; I make the las point with the next color that I´m going to use.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;For example:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I am using the red color, and I am making squares, the last point (the last movement) I make it with the blue color. Yo can see it &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-a1A2BZ1i0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this youtube video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2495" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T17:31:52.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2017-08-17T18:28:19.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glossiness in oil paintings is achieved through the painting medium used. The mixture of varnish(es) with the linseed oil and turps determines how the paint will look when dry. There are a number of premixed mediums you can buy, and you can make your own from recipes in artist reference books. Linseed oil on its own does not have the gloss or weight to settle into a smooth surface, that is the job of the varnish (or other kind or resin.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another major factor in eliminating brush strokes is the choice of brush you use when painting. White bristles are firmer and will leave brush marks, the softer (red) sable brushes and fans will be smooth. Painting with a soft brush and then lightly flicking over that with a fan brush to blend is a classic technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a mixture of medium and brush technique that gives you that super smooth finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: to downvoter, could you explain why? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T19:14:35.010" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T19:14:35.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3355" CreationDate="2017-08-17T20:37:00.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also consider sanding the smoothness off of the back of the dish using a coarse sand paper or even a dremel.  That would give your current glues a better chance to adhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it appears that the dish in your picture has a rather tall circular base.  You might be able to drill two opposing holes in that circle using a very thin micro drill bit.  Then run a thin wire between the holes to act as a hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything you do choose to do should be done to the plate before you add your artwork.  Get the dangerous, potentially dish damaging moves out of the way before you invest your artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-08-17T20:37:00.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3355" CreationDate="2017-08-18T03:19:28.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much, unfortunately I already did the &quot;pretty side&quot; since I need to know how much weight it will have when testing the hangar.  I will try sanding &amp;amp; got a gorilla glue 2 part opoxy that says it fills surfaces as the plate is not flat.  Last resort is wire plate hangar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2496" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T03:19:28.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3365" CreationDate="2017-08-19T17:59:00.807" Score="6" ViewCount="51817" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to take spray paint, spray it in a cup, and use it to hand paint with? I have a bottle of it, but no other paint and I want this hue. Just wondering if I can use this temporarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastActivityDate="2021-06-20T00:45:47.597" Title="Hand painting with spray paint?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3364" CreationDate="2017-08-19T23:21:12.073" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray paint, by design is in a pressurized container, to belabor the obvious. When used, the material is converted to an aerosol by the pressure, which then travels some distance at a good speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are attempting to spray it in a cup, a good portion of that force will result in back-spray, pushing the paint out of the cup. This is undesirable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple methods can be used to mitigate this problem. One is to use a large container, not a cup, something bucket sized and hold the nozzle near the edge of the bucket. Spray in a direction to cause rotation of the pressure as well as angled slightly downward, to keep the spray in the bucket. A portion of the spray will be wasted by coating the side of the bucket, making this a less than optimum method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to find a nozzle from a product using &quot;spray straws&quot; that direct the substance. Common sources are compressed air cans, also known as computer dusters, lubricants such as WD-40 and others. If the nozzle and straw come from such products, be sure to clean the material thoroughly to avoid paint contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suitable receptacle for this method might be a tall soft drink can or even a wide mouth tallish jar. Position the spray straw in a manner similar to the bucket method, pointing slightly downward and in a rotational manner. You will get some back spray, as the pressure has to go somewhere. You can reduce that problem by spraying under a rag or similar open-weave cloth or through a hole in the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray paint is also more volatile, and you will likely have shorter working time with the paint that collects before it dries or becomes too thick to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-08-19T23:21:12.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2017-08-20T06:05:47.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the U.K. we often join household plumbing pipes together with a solvent glue something akin to the plastic model aircraft glue. It bonds the joint in seconds and causes a melting and fusing of the plastic local onto the break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from personal experience (and the wording on the back of the pot I have) that it's excellent at joining ABS plastics. The pot I have is actually from a &quot;pipes built into the walls&quot; vacuum cleaner system, popular in other countries more so than in the U.K. so some variation on the solvent plumbing theme in your country is likely to be available from a builders or plumbing merchant that tradesmen use, if not from the general home diy store that the &quot;weekend warrior&quot; DIY crowd head to..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In similar fashion, for other kind of plastics such as car headlight lenses I've been able to find generic &quot;hard plastics glue&quot; on eBay. The last one was delivered from Poland, had a long list of unpronounceable and possibly highly toxic ingredients, but it did a good fast job of bonding a couple of ABS parts I had. The headlight lens took considerably longer but formed an acceptable bond eventually. A good glue to have a small amount of kicking around - the name of it was Technicqll R327 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2502" LastEditorUserId="2502" LastEditDate="2017-08-20T06:11:31.790" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T06:11:31.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-20T06:50:45.750" Score="4" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large rectangular plaster tile with an interesting relief pattern of bumps, dips and waves, but it's broken and I need to make a copy of it. It's not a bad break, 3 clean snaps making 4 pieces that go back together easily&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a wooden frame around it, a few inches higher than the highest relief and lined with a strong plastic membrane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paint it with several layers of latex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;talc coat and peel this latex off and then lay it back on so it's loosely on the original&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mix up some normal drywall plastering plaster (I've got loads kicking around, too old for plastering the wall with) or sand/cement mortar mix&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pour this into the mould on top of the latex and let set to form a supportive reverse mould&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lift off the plaster/latex reverse mould and separate the latex/plaster from each other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flip the whole thing over and reassemble the reverse+latex+frame and set about filling it with plaster of Paris and maybe some gauze/mesh/glass fiber weave that I have to add a bit of reinforcement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;separate the newly cast panel from the mould, peel the latex off it and repeat if I need more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I thought of everything? Will the latex separate easily from drywall plaster/plaster of Paris? Do I need a release agent? Will my chosen materials suffer any shrinkage or warping (they don't seem to when left in a bucket after a plastering job; it'd be a lot easier to clean if they did!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2502" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T23:41:04.853" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T23:41:04.853" Title="Copying a large plaster tile by latex moulding it; is my plan correct?" Tags="|sculpting|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3390" CreationDate="2017-08-20T18:09:53.193" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm translating a set of sewing instructions from German to English. I don't know a lot of sewing vocabulary, and I'm having trouble finding some of it in dictionaries, Wikipedia and so on. The term I'm asking for here is &lt;em&gt;Wendeöffnung&lt;/em&gt; - literally &quot;turn opening&quot; - the hole you leave unstitched when sewing something inside-out so that you can turn it right-side-out. What is that usually called in English? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2508" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T10:40:28.073" Title="Name for the turning opening" Tags="|sewing|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3339" CreationDate="2017-08-20T19:08:17.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, inkjet ink works with brushes. It's thinner than the usual ink for dip pens, but give it a try. I haven't broken open cartridges to get it, but used the ink from a refill kit. Because they're pure, primary colours, you can theoretically mix any other colour from them, just as the printer does. You can certainly get strong, saturated shades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2508" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T19:08:17.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3373" CreationDate="2017-08-21T11:00:11.920" Score="4" ViewCount="2431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a wooden locket, and I've got everything together, two halves hinges and everything, but I can't for the life of me find anything about what sort of clasp I should use to close the halves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything I search about jewelry clasps, regardless of whether I include the word &quot;locket&quot;, only ever returns info about bracelet and necklace clasps. I'm assuming the word &quot;clasp&quot; is probably incorrect in this context, but I don't know the right term to use; searching with &quot;closure&quot; instead seems to yeild similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints? One thing I should mention is that plain magnets embedded in the halves are a no go for my locket; I'm really looking for a clip or clasp to attach to the side opposite the hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="551" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T19:36:17.133" Title="What clasps are used for closing lockets?" Tags="|terminology|jewelry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3370" CreationDate="2017-08-21T15:16:07.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know what you mean about terminology being the key. My quick pop of research shows me that you might want to use &quot;friction clasp&quot; as the search terms, especially as a number of sites which return from this have direct reference to locket construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The publisher of &lt;a href=&quot;http://createjewelry.gr/blog/single/working_on_the_heart_locket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; attempted a friction clasp closure for the locket and was not happy/successful in the result and created an alternative, which may also suit your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SgH7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SgH7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rejected friction clasp image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The selected solution is shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NgIBf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NgIBf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;selected friction clasp image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can see the pin was removed from the first attempt and the hole was not filled in. I believe one can still refer to the solution as a friction clasp, from a mechanical standpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ganoksin.com/article/how-to-make-your-own-locket/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another site&lt;/a&gt; goes into great detail regarding making a locket including the creation of a friction clasp, which appears some distance down the page. It appears that the process results in the rejected design of the first page I've listed, yet I suppose it's personal taste and ability split down the middle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RyiNG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RyiNG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;creation image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T15:16:07.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3367" CreationDate="2017-08-21T17:25:28.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're on the right path; the only things I would change in your plan would be not to remove the latex mould (often known as a &lt;strong&gt;print mould&lt;/strong&gt;) before adding the supportive plaster mould (known as an &lt;strong&gt;overmould&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;mother mould&lt;/strong&gt;). &lt;a href=&quot;http://protagonist4hire.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/prop-building-101-making-one-sided.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shawn Thorsson's blog&lt;/a&gt; has a good tutorial on one piece moulds - he works in silicone rubber and plastic, but the principles are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plaster* and latex don't stick together much, so you shouldn't have any issues without applying talc or another release agent as long as you let the plaster dry for long enough, but there's no harm in applying one - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hirstarts.com/casting/advanced.html#surfactant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Hirst Arts website&lt;/a&gt; has a good guide to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both latex and plaster do shrink a little, so consider applying multiple coats of latex to get the correct thickness when building the mould. Since you're doing a one piece mould, you can deal with the plaster shrinkage by over filling it and then scraping off the excess. Once again, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hirstarts.com/casting/casting.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hirst Arts&lt;/a&gt; has a good tutorial on casting one piece plaster moulds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Admittedly my casting experience is solely with dental stone, which may be less 'sticky' than drywall plaster. Your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T17:25:28.987" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3370" CreationDate="2017-08-21T19:36:17.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a Google search which led me to a Pinterest page called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/Nivifer/jewelry-cold-connections-clasps-bails-lockets-hing/?lp=true&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jewelry : cold connections : clasps, bails, lockets, hinges, rivets&lt;/a&gt;.&quot; Looking at the pictures led me to some potential search terms and other ideas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for a hook and eye type clasp, but there were no pictures of the exact concept I was thinking of--but it would be a riff on this type of clasp: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0T9ky.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0T9ky.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this image labeled &quot;latch backing.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndH0w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndH0w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would guess that you will have the most luck searching for a &quot;figure eight safety clasp,&quot; or &quot;safety clasp.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FtYe9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FtYe9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this is an illustration of a faulty clasp, it does a pretty good job of showing how this type of clasp should work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/giyax.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/giyax.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to see if you can find a bead store that offers jewelry classes somewhere near you.  If you take some of these pictures in to show them, they can either help you identify a clasp that will work, or they might be able to point you to someone who does metal work that can make something for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T19:36:17.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3378" CreationDate="2017-08-22T17:12:54.657" Score="3" ViewCount="5828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to cut letters &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;INTO&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a piece of cloth, but - I would like to &quot;fold&quot; the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; edge under itself to make a nicer edge, (perhaps helping prevent it from unravelling/tearing in the future ...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, when you fold the fabric under itself, you either have to cut slits into it, creating a tear vulnerability, or - you create folds into the fabric ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there a best way for sewing up &quot;cut-outs&quot;, (the shapes or letters you cut INTO fabric)?  Or, maybe - Is there any way to create the &quot;folds/wrinkles&quot; evenly?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please help reword this if you know the proper terms that I am missing!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2516" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T15:27:48.710" Title="How to Sew Up &quot;Cut Outs&quot;, (Shapes Cut Into Fabrics)?" Tags="|sewing|cutting|fabric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2017-08-22T19:39:44.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; very difficult to cut out the letters and fold the edges under as you describe.  The first reason is as you state, you will likely have either wrinkles or slits that can fray.  The second reason is the shape of the letters as you have cut them will likely change once you start folding under the fabric.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to accomplish what you want is to trace the letters in the size you want (not adding any material for folding under), and then machine stitch around the tracing.  Most sewing machines have basic decorative stitches that you could use, even just a small zig-zag stitch might work.  Then cut the letters out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way would be to trace your letters with Fray Check (fabric glue) which you can find online or in fabric stores.  Once it dries, cut out the letters along the sealed edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T19:39:44.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-22T22:23:21.053" Score="4" ViewCount="1549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to create molds for food-safe silicone beads (like the ones babies use for teething). From &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2834/how-to-cast-silicone-beads&quot;&gt;another question here&lt;/a&gt;, I guess I can't use silicone to make silicone beads. Is there another food-safe product to create a mold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen clay and acrylic water kits suggested, but I am concerned with the food safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Regarding the linked question: I'm concerned that if I use the suggested materials for casting (clay or water acrylic resin) the silicone beads would no longer be properly safe. Now I'm wondering if I should just clean the beads well once cast. I'm nervous because these are meant to go in the mouths of babes, so I was hoping someone had done this before successfully.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2517" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T08:55:28.960" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T08:55:28.960" Title="Creating food-safe silicone beads" Tags="|jewelry|mold-making|food-safe|beads|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-22T22:41:39.883" Score="4" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a clay (plasticine) positive of a human figure standing 5' tall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next step is making a rubber mold for the lost wax process and a bronze positive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May I use the rubber mold for slip after the wax positive is made, plaster is to fragile and not at all charming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is Raku the answer for drying, if I can make a slip positive &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would someone discuss the basics here?  Any pointers are welcomed, if they reference the project!  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The actual mold has multiple pieces that will be joined to form a container into which the slip may be poured and later poured out when the piece reaches the desired thickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suggestions on thickness and etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideas other than plaster or slip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastEditorUserId="2265" LastEditDate="2017-08-24T20:48:24.077" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T07:02:50.250" Title="Can large pieces of slipware be dried without a kiln?" Tags="|ceramics|clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2021-05-06T08:54:07.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2017-08-23T00:37:57.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some additional details on the sewing and gluing methods mentioned in my first answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sewing a Satin Stitch&#xA;either by hand or by machine: a satin stitch is lots of horizontal stitches (vs. vertical) all very close together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnYG7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnYG7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a YouTube video showing both methods of satin stitching, by hand and by machine: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTurIxJlFg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTurIxJlFg&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  the video shows how to sew (fasten) cut out letters onto another piece of fabric; you are cutting out your letters from the piece of fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Satin stitch along the outline of your letters before you cut the letters out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZpl2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fZpl2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Fabric Glue (one brand is Fray Check): &#xA;use the fabric glue bottle like a pen, squeeze a thin line along the outline of your letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the glue dry for about 15 minutes, and then cut your letters out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  I’m not sure what the iron is for (the advice you got at the store).  You don’t need to use an iron with a fabric glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.  Good luck with your project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T15:07:43.180" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T15:07:43.180" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3535" CreationDate="2017-08-23T01:46:39.830" Score="1" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically draw on Stonehenge paper from rolls, cut size: 48&quot; x 60+&quot;. I like working big but it's horribly expensive to frame anything that large so I have been looking into various plastic drafting films which are less fragile than paper and can be exhibited without framing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest types of plastics I could use? I have also been wondering about rigid sheet plastic too – that will stand up to being installed, moved, etc. That would be ideal. I use oil stick (which dries in 10,000 years, apparently), so I would likely have to adjust my medium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T13:23:28.030" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T17:40:35.880" Title="What types of large plastic sheets can I draw/paint on?" Tags="|drawing|medium-selection|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8216" CreationDate="2017-08-23T14:13:54.690" Score="0" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like mechanical graphite pencils (e.g. 0.5 mm), because they are sharp, they do not contain wood (are eco-friendly and do not generate any waste) and they do not require sharpening which can consume the pastel core as well. And I like pastel pencils because I like drawing small and detailed images. But why there are no best from the both worlds - mechanical pastel pencils? Or maybe there are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some 30-40 years ago the Soviet Union existed and I remember that they had mechanical pencils with wider cores, I don't know exactly, but they may have even 1-2mm cores and the cores could be graphite or something similar to colourful chemical pencils (watercolor pencils). I am not sure whether it was mass product and whether they were just exploring the technologies. Well - Soviet Union used lot of such pencils in postal work and so on, they had not printed labels and small-printing, that is why the writing devices should have been made and they did as they could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2461" LastEditorUserId="2461" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-06-07T15:08:37.497" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T14:55:13.690" Title="Why aren't there mechanical pastel pencils?" Tags="|pencils|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2017-08-23T15:27:48.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abbie's answers are great and should work! However I wanted to provide a couple other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Folding the edges under&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; work. When you cut out your letters, add a seam allowance to all edges. Clip the curves and cut the corners with nice sharp scissors, then fold under and stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipped corners, done properly, shouldn't fray a lot. A crisp cut will give the fabric flexibility to fold under neatly, and you can roll it a tiny bit more to hide the clipped spot. However, you can always add a dot of fray check to the clipped points if you are worried about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make a facing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The preparation is similar to folding the edges under, except you are attaching a separate piece of fabric to the edges and folding &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; under instead. To do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before cutting, add seam allowances to the edges of the letters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the cutouts along the edges (with seam allowance added), both on your visible layer of fabric, and on the facing fabric (will end up on the back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sew the facing to the front along the cutouts, right sides together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clip facing, turn, press; optionally topstitch along openings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can finish the edges of the facing fabric however you like since they won't be visible. However, this technique wouldn't work well with sheer or thin fabrics, as the facing could add visible bulk. This will also mean the finished piece is not reversible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bind the edges&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get or make some binding, depending on if you want it to match or contrast. Woven binding tape is cut on the bias, which allows it to stretch a little around curves. However, on corners you will either have to make miters or folds. It can be tricky to apply properly, so you may want to practice first if you haven't worked with binding before. This will add a little bulk on the edges and (if you are careful with your stitching!) can result in a reversible piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T15:27:48.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3380" CreationDate="2017-08-23T18:56:27.720" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about pastel pencils--so there could be something like a mechanical pastel pencil out there, and if so, hopefully someone will answer this question with information about such a pencil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I have a hunch that they don't exist because of the different composition of the &quot;lead&quot; in a pastel pencil vs. that in a mechanical pencil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only ever used pastel sticks, so I had to look up the details of how a pastel pencil is created.  I found this description of the Caran d'Ache brand of pastel pencils on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/caran-dache-pastel-pencils/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dick Blick website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Caran d'Ache Pastel Pencils are made from pure raw materials to create a pastel pencil paste that is fed by hand into round moulding dies, oven-dried in special baskets, carefully glued between two strips of the finest California cedar, and cut into lengths to produce several pencils....As a final step, the pencils are sharpened in a double-cone process, a &lt;strong&gt;particularly delicate operation for such a fragile product&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;em&gt;I added the emphasis to the last line&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me as if the ingredients that make up the &quot;pastel pencil paste&quot; simply don't have the structural integrity to hold together as individual sticks of lead without being enclosed inside a protective shell. Manufacturers might be able to make the pastel sticks of the appropriate shape and diameter to work inside a mechanical pencil, but those sticks might be too delicate to be transported to customers.  They could also be too delicate to be able to function with the type of mechanism that advances the lead in a mechanical pencil; depending on the softness of the actual pastel lead, the compression mechanism that advances the lead in a standard mechanical pencil might actually crack/shatter/smoosh (that last is a scientific term) the pastel lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, for example, that my regular pencil sharpener does not work well to sharpen my colored pencils, which are wax based--I actually have a special sharpener designed to work with colored pencils that is MUCH more effective.  My guess is that there is something similar going on with the pastel pencils that mean that they simply cannot work with the mechanisms in a mechanical pencil.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-08-23T20:29:12.127" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T20:29:12.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-23T21:32:30.677" Score="3" ViewCount="1709" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Closely Related:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;- &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-to-sew-up-cut-outs-shapes-cut-into-fabrics&quot;&gt;How to Sew Up &amp;quot;Cut Outs&amp;quot;, (Shapes Cut Into Fabrics)?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-to-sew-up-cut-outs-shapes-cut-into-fabrics&quot;&gt;In the related question&lt;/a&gt;, there are solutions for prevent frayed edges in fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, could you avoid the complexity of sealing, folding, or stitching those edges - by intentionally leaving &quot;nice&quot; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;pre-frayed edges&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example:&lt;/em&gt; If you were to cut a circle &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the fabric, and stitched closely (1cm??) from the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;curved edge&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - what methods could be used to leave a &quot;consistently&quot; frayed edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the fabric's &quot;weave&quot;, &quot;thread-count&quot;, or other factors, important for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2516" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T23:05:03.593" Title="How to intentionally fray curved edges in fabric?" Tags="|sewing|cutting|fabric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3383" CreationDate="2017-08-23T23:52:40.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the right idea. Sewing near the edge but leaving the actual edge raw will achieve a frayed edge. Things to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This will only work on a woven fabric, not a knit. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most importantly, not all edges will fray equally on a circle shape. Because of the nature of a woven fabric, the threads are horizontal and vertical. Certain places around the circle (mostly when you hit the bias area), the fraying will change or may not show up at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weave does matter. If the fabric has a very open weave, it may not have a very frayed look, but look like loose threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2517" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-08-24T13:24:59.607" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T13:24:59.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3368" CreationDate="2017-08-23T23:55:03.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the comments.  &quot;Leave a gap or space&quot; would work, instead of a trying to use a single specific word. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2517" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-08-24T19:21:41.983" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T19:21:41.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-24T00:03:57.333" Score="4" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner artist, and have been exploring the medium of soft pastel and the &lt;em&gt;different surfaces&lt;/em&gt; for some time now. Not long ago i came across the Uart sanded pastel paper; once i experienced the higher quality of the paper i was no longer able to paint on the cheaper Canson Mi-Teintes. The latter only takes two or three layers of pastel and the texture is rough and it gives the painting an unfinished look. The Uart paper, on the other hand, takes on many many layers of pastel, and the texture is so smooth and it makes your drawing look fantastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only problem with the Uart is, that the are &lt;strong&gt;sooo expensive&lt;/strong&gt;! I looked for a cheaper line of sanded pastel paper, but alas there is nothing cheaper. The colourfix and Sennelier are all in the same range of 25-30$ for a pack of 10 sheets of 9x12 (which i think is very very expensive). Since i am only a beginner and still learning through trial and error i think it is a waste to spend so much money on such a small amount of paper. On the other hand if i don't practice i'll never get better, and practicing on the cheaper Canson Mi-teintes is really not a solution for me (since it is so different than sanded pastel paper). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So i'm looking here for any suggestions on how i could practice my pastel art without spending too much money on the paper (mainly sanded pastel paper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions will be appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2488" LastEditorUserId="2488" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T01:17:59.717" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T14:28:06.720" Title="Cheap sanded pastel paper?" Tags="|paper|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-24T22:10:26.597" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently commissioned by two of my 11th grade teachers to paint them wall murals in their plain classrooms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is not very specific with what they want, and the other is overly specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Chem. teacher wants a few of his walls painted, how long does that mean I'll have to stay after school to get that done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2159" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T18:27:48.820" Title="Murals in the classroom" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3387" CreationDate="2017-08-25T00:59:44.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This is too long for a comment.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not asking for opinions, but I am a teacher, and I worry that these commissions will affect your school work (staying late after school several hours a day for what could be several weeks).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may also affect your relationships with your teachers - especially with the teacher who is being overly specific.  What happens if this teacher is not satisfied with the job you do, will you need to start again?  Will the teachers pay for your supplies as well as your time?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are very complimentary requests, obviously you are very talented and your teachers are acknowledging that, which is wonderful. I just think these commissions would be better done over a summer break, not at the beginning of the school year.  Have you asked your parents or another trusted adult what they think?  I suggest that's a good next step if you haven't. Good luck to you, you sound like a very thoughtful and talented person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T00:59:44.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-25T10:32:47.207" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MipnS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MipnS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;50/6, 34/6&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;When shopping for yarn I noted numbers like: 50/6 or 34/6.  I am looking for a chart of similar numbers to understand the system.  Else, to know what these specific numbers mean.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1008" LastEditorUserId="1008" LastEditDate="2017-08-27T19:29:13.370" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T19:29:13.370" Title="knitting and crochet yarn gauge" Tags="|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3368" CreationDate="2017-08-25T10:40:28.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience I know that when translating it is sometimes better to go the long way around a term to make it understandable rather than provide an &quot;exact&quot; word-to-word translation which will not help at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1008" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T10:40:28.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3389" CreationDate="2017-08-25T15:55:59.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These numbers tell you the size of the yarn and how many plies it has. It's called the &quot;count system&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first number is the &lt;strong&gt;size&lt;/strong&gt; - the larger the number, the finer the yarn. (The physical sizes can vary for different fiber types, but they always follow that rule.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second number is the &lt;strong&gt;ply&lt;/strong&gt;, how many singles make up the yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So both of your examples are six-ply yarns, but the 50/6 yarn will be finer than the 34/6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you spin yarn, these numbers will tell you how much fiber you need to make a certain length. Fibers have a count associated with them (also different for each fiber type - for instance, cotton is 840 but linen is 300). That number is how long a single ply of yarn would be, spun at size 1, if you used 1 lb of fiber. So 1 lb of a 1/1 cotton would be 840 yds long. However, if you wanted to make 10/2 cotton, you would multiply by the fraction: &lt;code&gt;(10 / 2) * 840&lt;/code&gt; or 4200 yds of yarn, from the same weight. This value (yards per pound) is called the &quot;grist&quot;, and is directly correlated with the count system number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.interweave.com/article/spinning/yarn-numbers-mean-weaving-yarns/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reference&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T15:55:59.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3389" CreationDate="2017-08-25T16:16:34.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I know a heck of a lot about yarn and gauge, but I have never seen numbers like 50/6 or 34/6.  Can you post a picture of where you see these numbers?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general though, when you see numbers referring to gauge on yarn it refers to how many stitches per inch (or cm) using a particular size knitting needle or crochet hook. Here's an example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQTBZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQTBZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The square in the middle is telling you that using US size 8 knitting needles (5 mm needles), a 4x4 inch (10x10 cm) square of material should contain 20 stitches and 23 rows if knit in stockinette stitch. Or, for crocheting, if you use a size I-9 hook (5.5 mm) the same 4x4 inch square should include 16 single crochets in length and 18 rows of single crochet in height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The format of numbers that you are showing does not look like the way yarn makers designate sizes for yarn made specifically for knitting/crochet. Instead the format of one number/another number looks like the way sizes are designated for yarn designed to be used for weaving (which is generally much finer that what is used for hand knitting/crochet). Even so, as I said, those numbers don't make alot of sense to me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a chart that shows how many strands of yarn you should use across the width of a weaving loom for a close-spaced/medium-spaced/widely-spaced woven pieces. Notice the column down the left hand side shows many sizes in the same format that you mention in your question (although none of them match the numbers you use).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1YVQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1YVQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't easily find any images that show a comparison of sizes of weaving yarn and knitting yarn, nor any that show the yarn with a coin or something so you can get a sense of the actual width, but here are a couple of pictures for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k474E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k474E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KqPe7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KqPe7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with the pictures, though, it is hard to understand the actual size of the yarn if you were looking at it--and it can be tough to find any references that make the comparison for you.  However, I was able to find a post in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.weavolution.com/group/home-built-equipment/weaving-thread-sizes-19960&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; (scroll down to the posting by Sally Orgren) that states &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some folks think 20/2 looks like sewing thread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that, you can see that the weaving yarns tend to be pretty fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-08-25T16:16:34.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3396" CreationDate="2017-08-27T17:32:15.090" Score="6" ViewCount="3850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to the seaside at the weekend, and I plan on using my watercolours while I'm there as a way to relax. I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pentel-Aquash-Water-Brush-Assorted/dp/B002JIN2Q0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1503854666&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=pentel+watercolour+brushes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; brushes that can store water in the end of them so I don't need to bring a water pot. However, if the water runs out, I want to know if it's okay to refill them with water from the sea. That way, I don't have to worry about bringing extra water with me. I'd like to know if using the sea water would have an effect on the quality of both the paint and if it'll damage the brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="813" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T04:38:21.523" Title="Can I use salt water with watercolours?" Tags="|watercolor|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3395" CreationDate="2017-08-27T19:54:54.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use salt water with water colours. But remember, table salt (or salt water) is highly hydrophilic. Salt attracts water. Anywhere salt is present on your paper it will attract water from the area. The water colour pigments floating in your solution will concentrate around the salt particles. As the water is drawn closer by the salt you will get concentrated areas of pigments in those areas where salt particles are present. So if you are looking to achieve a spotted texture on the surface of your water colour painting salt is a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an experiment try sprinkling some table salt on the surface of your water colour painting, the sprinkled salt will create a more pronounced effect as the larger salt crystals in the table salt will attract a larger amount of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When done painting clean your brush with regular tap water. This will keep a layer of salt from precipitating out on the hairs of your brush as the salt water dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-20T04:38:21.523" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T04:38:21.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2201" CreationDate="2017-08-28T17:28:00.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quickly clean between color changes, I put a kitchen sponge in an old mushroom container, fill it with hot water and use it to wash the brush by dragging it back and forth over the hot, damp sponge. I then swish and rinse the brush in a large jar of cold water. This is usually enough for a clean color change using one brush. Of course, you do need to keep the water with the sponge in it hot and the swish and rinse water clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2536" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T14:21:39.647" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T14:21:39.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3069" CreationDate="2017-08-28T23:13:24.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a way to flatten the paper after the fact if you did not pre-stretch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've completed the painting and the paint has dried completely (it's really important that it must be absolutely dry), put the painting face-down on a clean dry table. Gradually moisten the back of the paper with a damp sponge to relax it. Ensure that you moisten all over the back of the paper and do so evenly with no puddles anywhere. Carefully pick up the paper (do not let any water drips get onto the right side of the paper) and lay it face-down on a sheet of drywall, ensuring that it lies completely flat with no wrinkles. Then place another sheet of drywall on top of the paper. Then add some weight on the top sheet of drywall (e.g. more sheets of drywall, a stack of books, whatever). Leave the painting sandwiched between the two sheets of drywall for a few days to dry completely. Finally, lift the top sheet of drywall and carefully remove the sheet of watercolor paper. It should be nice and flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T23:13:24.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3387" CreationDate="2017-08-29T18:27:48.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a teacher, but I too am impressed with your willingness to commit.. Do not take this as permissive, but my belief is that your education begins with your interests and the rest can be garnered in college, where you can apply yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to be an artist, then this is your launching pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time is always a problem when stepping into a new endeavor.  Please consider using a grid and transferring the entire image, in pencil or chalk, onto your surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you can google all you'll need to know about using a grid for reproducing an image onto a wall, so I won't elaborate to much here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sketch your idea or use a commercial photo.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then overlay clear velum, glass, plastic, or draw a grid pattern directly onto the sketch.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With a chalk snap line, make a larger grid on the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now, imagine each square on your sketch or photo being copied onto the corresponding chalk line square on the wall, then draw it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will save you an enormous amount of time in every step of the mural process.  Designing, transferring, and painting can all be done on your sketch, and preparation, the key to success, is covered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-08-29T18:27:48.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-31T00:04:40.690" Score="3" ViewCount="3285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly good at sharpening graphite pencils with a knife using the technique in the answer in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/457/what-is-the-proper-way-to-sharpen-a-pencil&quot;&gt;What is the proper way to sharpen a pencil?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm always breaking the points when I try to sharpen charcoal pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I expose the charcoal from the wood when sharpening with a knife without breaking it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques can I use to sharpen charcoal pencils without breaking the points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-03T18:04:30.863" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T18:04:35.687" Title="How do I keep from breaking charcoal pencil leads when I sharpen them with a knife?" Tags="|drawing|charcoal|sharpening|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3428" CreationDate="2017-08-31T01:13:45.480" Score="1" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told that casein paints are great to use but that they will spoil over time, unlike acrylics and oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long will casein paints last in the tube?  Is there any way to extend their shelf life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T14:48:24.800" Title="Casein Paint Shelf Life" Tags="|paint|watercolor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3401" CreationDate="2017-08-31T10:42:21.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, IMHO the best way to sharpen charcoal pencils is by using sandpaper (100 grit). Works really, really well and the result is perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start by just rough-shaping it slowly and with a lot of caution with a good sharpener. I usually keep a very small layer of wood over the tip and then move the pencil over the sandpaper which I place on a blanket on my desk. I remove the last little bit of wood like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is demonstrated in this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Df6L-2sB9Ow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Df6L-2sB9Ow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2140" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-03T18:04:35.687" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T18:04:35.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-08-31T16:33:02.963" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been drawing portraits for some time, both realistic and stylized.  I can draw from imagination for profile, 3/4 and face-forward views.  But I want to be able to draw from imagination all views: from below, from above, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have a little plastic head maquette that I use for reference when I do this.  How do I learn to do this from imagination? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T17:17:27.740" Title="How to draw a head from all angles from imagination?" Tags="|drawing|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3407" CreationDate="2017-08-31T18:45:34.590" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am quite a long way through a picture I am producing using Faber and Castell India ink Pitt artist pens. Last night I accidentally dropped one of the darker brown pens onto the picture, leaving a line about an inch and a half in an area that is supposed to left uncoloured. The picture is on thick white card with an ever-so-slightly shiny finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing my plans to mask/hide the line with another colour is not an option. Is something I can do to remove the line or mask it somehow so that it appears white?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T02:48:59.460" Title="Correcting an error when using a Faber and Castell Pitt artist pen" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2017-08-31T21:10:39.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand what you are attempting to accomplish, this is exactly the right type of project for a jeweler's saw.  You use a technique called piercing to cut out those type of interior shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found what looks like a pretty good tutorial &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Sheet-Metal-Jewelry-Basics-Saw-File-Sand-Polish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but the basics are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a very fine drill bit, create a pilot hole somewhere inside of the shape that you want to cut out.  Make sure that the pilot hole is large enough that your saw blade will be able to fit through the hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach your saw blade to the handle at the bottom, but leave it unattached at the top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed your saw blade through the hole in your piece of metal, and then attach it to the upper part of the saw handle.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Begin sawing towards the outer edge of the shape (in this case a letter), and once you have reached the edge, saw around the outline until you have removed all of the interior material.  In this picture, you can see her pilot hole, the straight cut to the outline of her shape, and her continued cut line around the perimeter of her shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DVrtK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DVrtK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One big challenge with your particular project however--jeweler's saw blades are extremely thin and easily broken. You need to be very careful not to bend them at all, but instead always keep your saw frame in basically the same orientation to your body--i.e., the blade is always facing in the same direction, and you are always sawing away from your body.  This means that you need to move the piece of metal around as you cut out a shape.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F55/L6GR/IWWFGZQR/F55L6GRIWWFGZQR.ANIMATED.LARGE.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; gif illustrates how to move the metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the piece you want to cut may be too large to move it in this way. You might be able to follow this exact process using a really deep fret saw frame instead of a jeweler's saw frame. I have never used one, so I don't know if they can handle blades as fine as a jeweler's saw blade, but they have a much deeper frame, which might work better for a larger piece of metal like the one you show here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fretsaw:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZ7o3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZ7o3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know what all of these saws are, but the two saws at the lower right are both jewelers saws, so you can compare the frame depth with the fret saw shown directly to the left.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T4i4J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T4i4J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDITED TO ADD:&lt;/strong&gt;  I completely forgot to answer the actual question about the size of the saw blade. The size of the saw blade is dependent on the narrowest area that you want to cut out.  Since none of the areas in your image are particularly fine (compared to the width of the saw blades), I would use the thickest jeweler's sawblade that you can use, to limit breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="1555" LastEditDate="2017-09-01T01:23:07.877" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T01:23:07.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3405" CreationDate="2017-09-01T02:16:15.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Semi-gloss white paint is probably your best bet.  First color-match the dried paint on a separate scrap of the same paper.  You may need to color-match the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you've used semi-gloss paper, you cannot use a single-edged razor blade to lightly scrape away the ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T02:16:15.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-01T18:21:33.780" Score="5" ViewCount="3832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always used the standard flour+water = paper mache. This often results in a somewhat heavy and fragile object though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a formula for a strong but &lt;strong&gt;light weight&lt;/strong&gt; version. Light-weight being key.&#xA;I'm hoping to create a scaffold of chicken-wire and mache over it to create a smooth surface.&#xA;I've also read that using &quot;blue shop towels&quot; can be better than newspaper so that is what I'll do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end product will be moisture-sealed and mounted to the bathroom wall to hold toilet paper in a decorative way (think &quot;giant sheep&quot; or some other fun shape that involves toilet paper rolls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2552" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T22:36:07.837" Title="Formula for strong but lightweight paper-mache" Tags="|material-selection|papier-mache|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3408" CreationDate="2017-09-02T22:16:59.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always used slightly diluted white PVA glue (just enough water to make it runny enough to soak paper in). Recently tried using kitchen roll, which was durable and held its shape well. Tissue paper (as in artistic, not toilet roll!) is also nice - very lightweight, and can also go directly on top of chicken wire, if you preferred to make a framework with the wire. Careful if you're using dyed paper though; sometimes the colour leeches out of the paper, or just runs everywhere. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmPTl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the photo shows it a bit more clearly. It's pretty tough, and holds paint really well. It smoothed fairly nicely, but we were in a bit of a hurry (and the bobbly texture actually worked quite well with fruit!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastEditorUserId="2558" LastEditDate="2017-09-05T22:36:07.837" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T22:36:07.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3404" CreationDate="2017-09-02T22:20:38.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some manga art books that are helpful - they give guidelines for drawing heads/bodies at all sorts of angles, whether by using skeleton frameworks, or just drawing freehand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you're happy taking a sketchbook around with you, try doing 20-second speed sketches of real people (using pencil, biro, or whatever medium you prefer). Real people don't tend to stand still that long, so you'll have to be quick, but it's a great way of practising natural head positions. (Places like shopping centres or looking out of café windows can be helpful - some places put you below head level, and other put you a storey or two above where people walk). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2017-09-02T22:20:38.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-02T22:50:48.903" Score="3" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im currently working on an art collage project where I want to cause the dyes and inks from magazine cutouts to bleed, smear, and run across their paper. I have tried paint thinner, bleach, vinegar, fire, but nothing is creating this bleed effect that I desire. Is there some household products I can combine to create this effect? Are there chemicals that I can buy that would be relatively safe to use (indoor or outdoor)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2559" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T17:15:03.737" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T11:14:50.660" Title="Creating Color Bleed From Magazine Cutouts" Tags="|paper|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-03T03:16:00.807" Score="2" ViewCount="1944" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the charcoal that's branded with 'soft' the same as the one that's branded with 'light'? Are there any differences between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2562" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T08:58:34.627" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T08:58:34.627" Title="Differences between 'soft' and 'light' charcoal pencils" Tags="|charcoal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2017-09-03T03:24:41.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blocking in features will only take you so far.  Use the Reilly Head Abstraction (also called the Reilly Method) to capture the rhythms and features of the face.  This will give your faces dimensionality and the features will blend with each other harmoniously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LHRc8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LHRc8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Reilly Head Abstraction.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQW3J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQW3J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQ5ZaK1XExE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQ5ZaK1XExE&quot; alt=&quot;A good video demonstrating the Reilly Method.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastEditorUserId="2546" LastEditDate="2017-09-03T03:35:33.503" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T03:35:33.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3412" CreationDate="2017-09-03T15:03:53.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The characteristics between soft charcoal pencil and light charcoal pencil are different. Soft charcoal pencil is darker than medium and hard charcoal pencil, it is a black color.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's easy to crush, and the first time I used it, it became very short in one day. 'Light' charcoal have two meanings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light can mean hard, as 'light, medium, dark' corresponds with 'hard, medium, soft':&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Light = Hard charcoal pencil.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Dark = Soft charcoal pencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light can refer to the white charcoal pencil in some brands, used to draw lighter areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore the second meaning when the brand states &amp;quot;Light, Medium, Dark&amp;quot; - it means the same as HB to 4B, giving good results from light to dark.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When the brand states &amp;quot;Soft, Medium, Hard&amp;quot; (as for example Han Zi, a Chinese brand, does), there is hardly a difference between the light to dark results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But soft charcoal pencils give nice results in drawing, too. Using my soft charcoal pencil results in the center of it being darker than the edges, giving a Photoshop-like blur brush effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2564" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T08:57:19.717" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T08:57:19.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3404" CreationDate="2017-09-03T15:54:47.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having sketch first, and practice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Head rotation sketches like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rebloggy.com/post/drawing-illustration-tutorials-art-reference-how-to-draw-portrait-drawing-figure/138375273741&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt;, know about Anatomy and soild drawing, then you try to sketch up your character, then character design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After design complete, you try to use sketch, then draw your imagination character.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It will be nice, for animation, game concept art, realistic fantasy art and more.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/564638872002860015/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Examples here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If your drawing skill is realistic, character concept art &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=character%20concept%20art&amp;amp;client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiN8NT-sonWAhULMY8KHdhVD5MQ_AUIECgB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2564" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-09-03T17:17:27.740" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T17:17:27.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2017-09-05T23:01:33.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way I've found is to do it with wire cutters (as described &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biglearning.org/craft-sticks/technique-cutting.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pinch/crush the wood at the correct place to weaken the stick (no need to try and cut all the way through), and then bend the cutters back and forth to snap the wood fibres until you've cut right the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can still be a little fiddly and you will have some losses because it won't be a clean cut - I know it kinda seems like a lot of trouble for such a small, humble item as a popsicle stick - but if you need them cut, it seems to be the way to go as it gets you the best result for the least time and most common tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually found this while googling for a better way to cut popsicle sticks, guess there isn't one yet:P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T12:26:51.023" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T12:26:51.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3419" CreationDate="2017-09-06T02:42:27.030" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't personally own any Prismacolor pencils, so, besides those, which coloring pencil is best to use when doing a project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Crayola pencils (twistable and regular) and I don't know how to aproach this piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;It's a post apocalyptic drawing of a guy in a gas mask&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2159" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T05:08:20.353" Title="Coloring Pencils (no prismacolor, only Crayola)" Tags="|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-09-06T14:18:17.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3418" CreationDate="2017-09-06T05:08:20.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I prefer Tombow (Irojiten) and Faber Castell (Polychromos) pencils. Both have a great texture on any surface and the colors are really nice. They don't break easily which is a huge plus for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially if working with different tones I like to combine these two brands as they go really well together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end which brand you use depends a lot on your personal preferences and experiences. I guess you can get similar results with a lot of brands (cheaper or more expensive ones). You should go with whatever you can get your hands on and practice with those. If you find that the pencils you are using are missing some &quot;feature&quot; or quality that you need, then go ahead and try to find pencils which cover that gap. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crayola ones are really good pencils, too. I do also own some and especially like to take them with me when doing quick outdoor sketches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun and good luck on your project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2140" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T05:08:20.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-06T09:03:52.853" Score="3" ViewCount="2039" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been painting on ceramic tile's with Liquitex acrylic ink. I would like to seal them so that they could be used as coasters. I want to make them impervious to liquid and coffee cup heat. Does anyone have suggestions on sealing the tile's? When I sprayed some Krylon UV clear protector, the ink was reactivated and began to spread. I was thinking of putting some Liquitex gloss medium on the tiles and thin coating them with clear water-based polyurethane. My other alternative was to use art resin but I'm unclear which would be the best way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2576" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T11:46:28.657" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T18:09:59.673" Title="How do I go about sealing tiles painted with acrylic ink?" Tags="|preservation|ceramics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3420" CreationDate="2017-09-06T10:16:50.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both methods should work; polyurethane varnish seems to be a fairly standard way of sealing acrylic paint on ceramic (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.potters.org/subject98910.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread on potters.org&lt;/a&gt; for example) and Art Resin* claims that 'the heat generated from a hot mug will not damage the resin surface' and that it is suitable for use on ceramics (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artresin.com/pages/faq-2-materials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ArtResin FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, points 24 and 25).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also stumbled across &lt;a href=&quot;https://daycare.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some people&lt;/a&gt; saying that you can bake acrylics in the same way that you can enamels - no guarantees, but you might find that this works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, given that you've already had some issues with the ink dissolving in the varnish(possibly caused by attempting to varnish before the ink was fully dry) I suggest that you &lt;strong&gt;test your chosen method&lt;/strong&gt; on something disposable before you seal your coasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*a brand, but the same points should apply to most clear two part epoxy resins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T10:16:50.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3422" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-09-06T11:03:55.783" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T11:03:55.783" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T11:03:55.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3423" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-09-06T11:03:55.783" Score="0" Body="Casting, carving and working with plaster, dental stone and similar materials." OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T12:27:36.230" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T12:27:36.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3091" CreationDate="2017-09-06T12:08:27.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like normal EVA foam, which is often used in the cosplay community for making lightweight armour and the like (and of course for kneeling pads, children's play areas and the like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've successfully made prop helmets from EVA foam using &lt;strong&gt;contact adhesive&lt;/strong&gt; to join the edges - they held up well despite the tension through the join. Given that you'll have a much greater surface area and much less tension on the join you'll have no trouble with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative glue, widely used in the cosplay community, is &lt;strong&gt;barge cement&lt;/strong&gt;, however I haven't used it so cannot personally confirm it's usefulness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T12:08:27.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2707" CreationDate="2017-09-06T17:21:09.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mohits answer above with the square is a good way to start but here's how I learned to draw circles and ovals (ellipses) freehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, learn to draw circles and ovals with your shoulder and elbow.  Your whole forearm should move when you draw a circle or oval.  Except for very small circles, you will never be able to draw good circles with just your fingers and wrist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, draw squares of various sizes and draw circles that fit exactly inside those squares.  Check your work by folding the paper in half through the middle of the circle and holding the folded paper up to the light.  The lines of both sides should line up exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, fill a page with circles of various sizes every day until you master the skill.  This skill takes practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you've mastered circles, practice ovals. The technique is the same as circles except that you will be folding your paper in half along the long side and then the short side of the oval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start drawing circles and ovals in perspective, first draw a square in perspective and then use Mohit's method to draw the circle within the square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T17:21:09.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2726" CreationDate="2017-09-06T18:02:06.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try carefully scraping the dark color off with the edge of a razor blade or similar tool. This presents less of a risk to the rest of the work. If there is enough ground (the gelatin layers) you should be able to scrape it away without getting to the cloth underneath. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T18:02:06.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3411" CreationDate="2017-09-06T18:09:30.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A technique that will get the result you are looking for would be to transfer the imagery from the magazines to something that you could then transfer again onto your work of art. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color copies of the 'zines would probably work best, saw a lot of that in art school. Not sure the solvent used on the copies but pretty sure it is one of the things you tried for the magazine prints, probably rubbing alcohol. That will give the running and smearing effect that a &quot;proper&quot; transfer would lack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The magazines themselves are printed in inks that are too permanent to dissolve before the paper breaks down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The copying process allows you another point of manipulation as well, as you can scale the pictures up or down, copy multiple images, move them around during the scan, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T18:09:30.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3402" CreationDate="2017-09-06T18:33:45.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not think you have to worry about commercial casein paints in tubes unless you are leaving them alone for months. Doubt they would spoil, one site said you can refrigerate them if you wish, but do not freeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you are thinking about egg casein which is mixed fresh from egg whites? Or other methods that start from powders? Those would go bad but the tubes seem to be stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.richesonart.com/products/paints/richesoncasein/richcaseinfaq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Casein paint tubes may harden a bit if they aren't handled frequently. Squeezing the tubes circulates the emulsion with the pigments, keeping them moist and pliable.&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.richesonart.com/products/paints/richesoncasein/richcaseinfaq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ 1&lt;/a&gt; - good overview of casein tubes. source of quote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.art-paints.com/Blog/painting-with-casein-milk-paints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ 2&lt;/a&gt; - more focused on freshly mixed caseins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artistsnetwork.com/medium/oil/krieger-casein&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ 3&lt;/a&gt; - about underpainting with casein, talks about true casein spoiling though&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T18:33:45.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3386" CreationDate="2017-09-06T19:03:00.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you could make your own version by mixing up a ground that you could paint onto less expensive paper. I am pretty sure Golden makes things that you can mix into their acrylic mediums to add tooth to the surface. If you build up a thick enough base you could hand sand that surface to get the different grades that Uart provides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be tricky to match the even consistency of Uart but rolling your own seems the most economical approach. It also lets you control the base color of your surface as you can pigment the ground you are applying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T19:03:00.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3438" CreationDate="2017-09-06T21:01:39.543" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use my chalk pastels to make a &quot;Smoke&quot; like effect? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it useful in drawings or should I just stick with pencils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I use Canson sketchbooks&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2159" LastEditorUserId="2159" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T21:15:03.340" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T15:31:19.990" Title="Pastel Chalks for smokey effect" Tags="|colored-pencils|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-07T11:36:37.437" Score="4" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm stuck with choosing the type of plaster for a sculpture I'm planning to carve out of a plaster block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The names under which they sell  plaster tend to address their purpose in construction and don't really tell me much about their properties. The figures on the information sheet don't mean anything to me, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think hard plaster would be best for the purpose as I would like to have some detail and have the sculpture stronger overall. So what I've found out is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is alpha plaster I should be looking for&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they rarely mention anything about alpha or beta plaster on the package&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they usually mix alpha and beta plasters in the market products&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I should better look at the information sheet to find out about the strength, hardness, etc of the plaster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone tell me what I should be looking for when choosing the plaster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, if I have to choose between Plaster of Paris and construction gypsum would the second be a better choice for the purpose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2579" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-09-10T12:02:00.210" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T13:46:00.610" Title="What type of plaster should I choose for a block-carved plaster sculpture?" Tags="|material-selection|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-08T12:53:46.723" Score="1" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a block-carved sculpture would it be a good idea to use construction gypsum instead of plaster of Paris if I want it to be stronger and more detailed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T12:53:46.723" Title="Using construction gypsum instead of plaster of Paris for a substractive plaster sculpture" Tags="|material-selection|plaster|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-09-18T21:58:35.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-08T13:48:16.340" Score="5" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what type of crochet stitch is being used here in the light green area (above the pink on the wrist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like possibly 3 dc stitches in one hole, but I'm wondering if anyone knows more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y99Sa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y99Sa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2584" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-09-08T14:58:04.050" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T18:59:36.857" Title="What is this crochet stitch?" Tags="|crocheting|technique-identification|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2017-09-08T18:51:35.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a double crochet three together (dc3tog).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's commonly used as a decrease stitch but in this case there are likely a chain or two on each side leaving the space for the two maroon single crochets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like a complex stitch but it's really just three unfinished half crochets that then get finished all at once. Working through it once or twice should be all you need if you're comfortable with double crochets in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://newstitchaday.com/dc3tog-double-crochet-three-together-decrease/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The steps are&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Step 1: Yarn over.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 2: Take tip of hook insert into next st in row.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 3: Yo hook and draw yarn through st. (3)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 4: Yarn over and draw through two loops on hook.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 5: Yarn over.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 6: Take tip of hook insert into next st in row.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 7: Yo and draw through stitch.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 8: Yarn over and draw through two loops on hook.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 9: Yarn over.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 10: Take tip of hook insert into next st in row.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 11: Yo and draw through once more (5 sts on hook).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 12: Yo and draw through 2 loops on hook (4sts on hook).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Step 13: Yo once more and draw through all 4 sts on hook.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link above also includes a video tutorial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, that for the pattern above, steps 6 and 10 would be the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; space rather than the next stitch as they're being worked in a chain space rather than in stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T18:51:35.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3435" CreationDate="2017-09-08T18:59:36.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is a bit more complex than three double crochets in one stitch--but that is the foundation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working from the edge of the sleeve towards the body, it appears to me that the edge was created by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starting the Sleeve&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work a chain approximately the diameter of the cuff (but making sure that the total number of chain stitches you use for this row is divisible by 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slip stitch into the first chain worked to create a circle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain four, then single crochet into the third chain from the hook&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain three, skip two chain stitches from your base row and single crochet into the third chain stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat all the way around the circle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next round is where you are going to be doing the 3 double crochets in one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sleeve Round 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slip stitch into the start of the round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain three (this is to mimic a double crochet at the start of a round), then work two double crochets into the first chain three loop from the last row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain two&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work three double crochets in the next chain three loop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 3 and 4 all the way around this row.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sleeve Round 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work a single crochet stitch (or this might be a half double crochet) into each of the chain two stitches from the last round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain three&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single crochet into the three double crochets from the last round and work a single crochet into the two chain stitches from the last round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 2 and 3 all the way around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate Sleeve Rounds 1 and 2 until the sleeve is the length that you need.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, because a sleeve has to get wider as it goes up the arm, you will have to experiment with increasing the diameter by gradually adding more chain stitches in step 3 of sleeve round 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Determining how many stitches to add, and how often to add them will be determined by your specific gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How many stitches to add:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Let's say that your gauge is three stitches per inch, you will need to add three stitches to one round to increase the diameter by one inch. One way to do this is to work Sleeve Round 1, Step 3 normally, except--three times, evenly spaced around the circle, you will work chain 3 instead of chain 2.   When you work Sleeve Round 2, Step 1, work three single crochets into those Chain 2 sections. Your entire sleeve circumference will now be an inch wider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To determine how often to increase:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You can figure out how often to do this type of increase by measuring the height of a Round 1 and Round 2 pair.  Let's say that the height of these two rows together equals 1 inch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab a sweater that fits you well, and measure the circumference of the cuff, and the circumference of the sleeve cap (the top of the sleeve where it attaches at the shoulder).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then measure the length of the sleeve (from cuff to sleeve cap).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Subtract the cuff circumference from the sleeve cap circumference to determine how many inches you need to add over the length of the sleeve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now it is time for math--you will divide the length of the sleeve (the number from item 2) by the amount you need to increase (the number from item 3). If you need to increase by five inches from the cuff to the shoulder, and your sleeve is 10 inches long, then you will have to work an increase round every 2 inches.  Because each pair of Sleeve Rounds 1 and 2 equal 1 inch, you will need to increase every other time you work Sleeve Round 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind this is all just guesswork on my part.  @Catija has provided another possible answer to how this fabric was created.  The best option is for you is to work a sample using her pattern and a sample using my suggestion and see which version seems to come closer to recreating the fabric in your image.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T18:59:36.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2017-09-09T14:56:33.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pastels, that is chalk pastels, are easy and beautiful media for blending or creating translucent effects like smoke, as you know.   However, they are fragile and will blow away or fall off if not sealed.  Even then they will be sensitive to the environment, especially fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'd bet you would be successful with a semi-permanent spray fixative.  You'll be able to go over it, if you must, but your smoke effect will gain longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you may be working over graphite, the surface may have that greasy action, but be persistent.  Consider using pastel pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-09-09T14:56:33.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-11T23:26:16.850" Score="4" ViewCount="889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I deconstructed a bag/pack in an attempt to sew one from scratch and the hem had a rigid plastic cord that helped it keep its circular shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNz0s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNz0s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of cord&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I could find after some time googling is that it looks like &quot;welting cord&quot;, but the examples I've found have the same shape but are made out of vinyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another name for this type of cord?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2591" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-09-12T00:00:43.800" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T00:22:31.253" Title="What is the name of the rigid plastic cord in this hem?" Tags="|sewing|terminology|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3440" CreationDate="2017-09-12T00:09:11.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welt cord and &lt;strong&gt;piping cord&lt;/strong&gt; are the correct terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in different varieties, with the center filling being made of different materials, such as foam or rope or cord. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get them &lt;em&gt;hollow&lt;/em&gt;, and then you buy a cord of your choice to thread through it, such as the rigid plastic cord that you'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of buying pre-made piping cord, you can also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2012/01/sewing-tips-how-to-make-use-piping.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;make your own&lt;/a&gt;. Again, you end up filling the &quot;pipe&quot; with a cord of your own choosing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose a rigid plastic cord, you'll lose some flexibility. Which, in a pack/bag, I imagine is the point, as it will retain its shape better when empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-09-12T00:11:53.307" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T00:11:53.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3440" CreationDate="2017-09-12T00:22:31.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question, and I am not sure I found the exact answer, but let me throw out what I have found so far.  On the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bagntell.wordpress.com/hardware/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bag'n-telle website&lt;/a&gt;, I found information about what they call &quot;Framing Scrim,&quot; which they describe as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dense twisted paper cord or  pliable rubber filler for frame purse making. Great for standard to wide channel purse frames or purses with thin fabric layers. Using scrim in purse making strengthens the bond between the fabric and the frame.  Insert the scrim into the lining side of the purse using a pointed tool (such as wooden creaser/turner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the picture that they show next to the definition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaYAF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaYAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I did another search for &quot;plastic welting cord&quot;, and found some really promising supplies--many seem to be aimed towards use in boating. Here's an example from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sailrite.com/Seabrook-Vinyl-Welting-Piping-White?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6NjNBRDKARIsAFn3NMoX3-lt9d0VSc4IvTwYBnEzHLkbKKYV8Xsh5jNUIHB7EA6ULqZpXu4aAgkVEALw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLT7u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mLT7u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were a number of other retailers that came up with that particular search term--some of them are for the cordage only, but others sell the cords already enclosed in fabric of some sort (as shown in the picture above).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T00:22:31.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3420" CreationDate="2017-09-12T17:31:26.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the Box stores will have &quot;Shrink Wrap Bags&quot;.  I suggest this as an alternative to a spray or roll on clear because of the bleeding problem you ran into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bags, when exposed to heat should conform to the tile and be washable, although I would not pass them through the dishwasher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a though if you cannot find an acrylic or water based spray. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T17:31:26.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-13T15:29:12.350" Score="4" ViewCount="4900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an article of clothing that had duct tape on it at one point, but after pulling off the duct tape residue remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've debated buying Goo Gone but I am worried about discoloration. &#xA;The fabric is all black, no patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to remove the duct tape adhesive residue, without affecting coloration? Has anyone used Goo Gone before? Are there alternative methods that can be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I've confirmed with the company that manufactured the clothing that it is 94% Polyester and 6% Spandex&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="70" LastEditDate="2018-02-03T13:59:53.270" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T13:59:53.270" Title="Remove duct tape adhesive residue from fabric" Tags="|adhesives|restoration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3444" CreationDate="2017-09-13T15:49:59.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Goo Gone and similar products work quite well on hard surfaces for removing adhesive residue. You will find that the recommendations for such products also include testing on a hidden portion or similar piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that Goo Gone will work and you may be able to soak the fabric in the liquid to allow better penetration. Once soaked for a while, a detergent wash is likely to be needed to remove the oiliness of GG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatives to GG include WD-40, with the same oiliness factor, as well as baby oil, mineral oil and peanut butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work the selected substance in the fabric frequently to ensure good distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search using &quot;goo gone fabrics&quot; shows that many posts have been made to indicate the product works on clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of all the above, I think peanut butter involves the most effort and perhaps the lowest risk of discoloration, but I've never used peanut butter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T15:49:59.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3444" CreationDate="2017-09-13T19:51:16.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three key variables to consider with this problem:  fiber content, fabric construction, and dyeing method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;fleece fabric construction&lt;/strong&gt; is sort of a worst case because there is so much surface area for the adhesive to stick to that you won't be able to freeze the fabric and try to scrape it off - which is a good technique for getting sticky stuff like gum or adhesive off of flat fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &lt;strong&gt;fiber content&lt;/strong&gt; is polyester, you probably can safely use a goo-be-gone product because it's most likely that the fiber was solution dyed, which means the dye is actually part of the fiber, not an add-on. (Dye is added to the solution before being extruded into a fiber shape.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though goo-be-gone should be OK to use on polyester fleece, it's safest to apply a little with a Q-tip somewhere that doesn't show, like the inside of the side seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fleece is a &lt;strong&gt;natural fiber&lt;/strong&gt; like cotton, you definitely need to do a test first because the dye will likely be less stable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Textile dyeing can be conducted at the fiber, yarn, fabric or garment stages.  The earlier in the process the dyeing occurs, i.e at the fiber or yarn stage, the more stable and durable.  However, fiber and yarn dying are typically more expensive processes than fabric or garment dyeing so it's done less often.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible complication:  Sometimes black fabrics of any fiber content have been overdyed - the fabric or garment may have been dyed a fashion color that didn't sell well, and then dyed black. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is much about end-use textiles that is invisible to the human eye and to the average consumer.  Without knowing fiber content and how the item was processed and dyed, there is always a risk when experimenting with chemicals on textiles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always test on a place that won't be seen, or take the item to a reputable dry-cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T19:51:16.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-13T21:01:00.123" Score="5" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am recently exploring a new craft: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%A5lebinding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nålebinding&lt;/a&gt;. I started using regular large plastic needles. But sadly, these are a little bit too small and soft for this craft, so the eyelets often break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people using needles made from bone, antler or wood. Since I live in a woody area, I would like to know if anybody has experience in making needles from wood? It would have to look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npRBO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npRBO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some small woodworking tools, but I have never used them. They were a gift from somebody else that gave up on woodworking after not succeeding a few times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions basically are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a good sort of wood to make a needle from?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I start? Do I make the eyelet first, or the needle shape? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any things that I, as an absolute beginner, should be aware of?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastEditorUserId="2595" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T21:56:35.337" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T10:40:12.827" Title="How to make a wooden needle?" Tags="|woodworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3411" CreationDate="2017-09-14T01:59:55.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;CitraSolv? Look up Cathy Taylor's Altered Papers tuts on YouTube. She uses NatGeo for hers because the paper is impregnated with clay. She also has success with highly colored junk mail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2601" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T01:59:55.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-14T04:40:43.310" Score="3" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm exploring water etching by painting designs on bone dry clay with amber shellac. I paint on 2 coats (wait 30 minutes between coats) and then wait overnight before I begin the water etching process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is before I've removed enough clay (cone 5, B-Mix) the shellac starts to peal up around the edges and I am forced to wait for everything to dry then add another (third coat) of shellac and wait another 24 hours. I've been using a small sponge that is semi wet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What (if anything) am I doing wrong? I've heard this can be a finicky process (which is why I have always carved my pieces instead). Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T14:06:40.137" Title="Ceramics and shellac" Tags="|tool-selection|ceramics|pottery|clay|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3447" CreationDate="2017-09-14T10:20:11.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;: I've never actually made a needle for naalbinding, but I have done some other wood carving and the principles are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.en.neulakintaat.fi/19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The site from which you (presumably) got your picture&lt;/a&gt; lists a few materials that naalbinding needles can and have been made from, including the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;juniper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rowan tree&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;honeysuckle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lilac&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;olive tree&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fruit trees (like apple tree)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ice cream sticks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the above, you can probably conclude that any reasonable wood (I.E. not balsa) will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://pin.it/zXvNLx-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a tutorial&lt;/a&gt; that suggests making the basic shape first, but given that making the eye is probably the trickiest bit I would make it first before carving the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, the main thing to be aware of is safety. If using a knife, &lt;strong&gt;always cut away from you&lt;/strong&gt;, and take appropriate steps with whatever other equipment you may use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, the only thing that's required is a small amount of (what looks to be very cheap) material and some practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T10:20:11.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-14T12:11:43.213" Score="8" ViewCount="1535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy chainmailling in my free time, although I am still no expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know if there are special pliers that exist that one can use to open and close rings without scratching the rings or removing anodized coloration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones I currently have &lt;a href=&quot;http://g03.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1trjlNFXXXXbQXpXXq6xXFXXXZ/Beading-Supplies-Tools-font-b-Jewelry-b-font-font-b-Pliers-b-font-font-b-Flat.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;are small flat nose pliers&lt;/a&gt; (without the grooved texture for grabbing) but sometimes if I slip even the corners or flat surface it can scratch the rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried putting paper between the rings and the opening of the plies to act as a cushion but it's not a very viable way to work and the paper rips often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any pliers with rubber lining that exist for this purpose or can I use a glue gun on my current pliers to try to avoid scratching? Please advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-11T00:20:03.640" LastActivityDate="2022-11-11T00:20:03.640" Title="Pliers for chainmail that don't scratch the rings" Tags="|tool-selection|metalworking|chain-mail|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3454" CreationDate="2017-09-14T12:16:23.350" Score="7" ViewCount="2713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a metal band that use costumes for shows, I need to craft a mask that is durable but not too heavy, since I will use it on live presentations. I tried to make it using plastered gauze, but it seems too flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's visual representation (the grid part is inside).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FvWQ2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FvWQ2.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2603" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-09-22T23:21:11.320" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T18:44:35.703" Title="Crafting a sturdy, not heavy mask for shows" Tags="|material-selection|costume-design|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3451" CreationDate="2017-09-14T12:25:57.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While googling for pictures of the pliers I had, I actually found my answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/p_100015335_2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;soft jaw&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, &amp;quot;non-scratch&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;nylon-jaw&amp;quot;, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002LE74G6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;non marring&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps someone else with the same question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit/Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually bought some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.michaels.com/beadalon-nylon-jaw-round-nose-pliers/10157929.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;soft jaw round nose pliers&lt;/a&gt; from my local craft store and they &lt;strong&gt;DID NOT WORK AT ALL&lt;/strong&gt;. They were not strong enough to grip or twist open the rings I had. I promptly returned them and have continued using the ones I have in my original question. If I get soft jaw/nylon plies that are flat and use them, I will update this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2021-01-03T22:09:17.517" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T22:09:17.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3452" CreationDate="2017-09-14T13:30:28.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plaster that is thick enough to be reasonably strong and rigid will probably be too heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Masks are often made from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;papier mache&lt;/a&gt;, essentially building up strips of paper soaked in paste over a former which dried to a fairly strong but lightweight material. Other methods involve pressing paper pulp into a mould. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use your plaster original as a former as long as you coat it with wax, Vaseline ect to act as a release agent and prevent the paper from sticking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An quick internet search will find many tutorials on making masks in this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big advantage of papier-mache is that you don't really need much in the way of tools and equipment to work with it and teh raw materials are cheap and easy to get hold of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many other options depending on your particular priorities, moulded leather, sheet metal or cast resin or composites would all potentially be pretty cool but there you are looking at either a substantial investment in time, practice and materials or engaging a specialist to work with you to make it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that you may find that if you reach out a bit you may find an artist of fabricator who is sufficiently interred in the project to give you a good deal. I would certainly be interested in something like this but equally if you want at a good deal based on collaboration you need to be prepared to give up some creative control of the project. So you need to make sure that you have a similar vision in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastEditorUserId="253" LastEditDate="2017-09-24T23:47:32.880" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T23:47:32.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2017-09-14T13:46:00.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of specialists which will stock a good range of plasters, these include sculpture and ceramics suppliers and well as those catering to industrial mould making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plaster used for construction is not really what you want unless you find a supplier which caters for more traditional mouldings etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hard alpha plaster like CrystacalR  is very hard indeed and certainly takes some effort to carve and the various blends will give different hardnesses, setting times ect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look for a general purpose casting plaster as this should be somewhere in the middle of the range of hardness anything sold as dental plaster or plaster of paris should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would try to find a specialist supplier with a good range eg : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialplasters.co.uk/plasters.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.specialplasters.co.uk/plasters.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases make sure you mix the plaster properly and with the correct quantity of water or you will get inconsistent hardness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T13:46:00.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3451" CreationDate="2017-09-14T17:11:46.793" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to your own answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jewelers (and most chain mail workers that I know, including myself) use a type of pliers called &amp;quot;chain nose pliers.&amp;quot;  I don't really know why they have that name, but they have nice pointy tips for getting into the rings and smooth surfaces on the inside.  Here's an article about chain nose vs. round nose pliers:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20210507001904/http://blog.consumercrafts.com/jewelry-main/tool-comparison-round-nose-vs-chain-nose-pliers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://blog.consumercrafts.com/jewelry-main/tool-comparison-round-nose-vs-chain-nose-pliers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, using a glue gun probably won't work well, but you have the right idea there.  Instead you want to look for a product that is designed to coat the metal on tools.  Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20170510060715/http://makebraceletsblog.com/2011/12/10/how-to-keep-jewelry-tools-from-marring-your-metal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;short article&lt;/a&gt; about this concept. The product used in the article, and that I have also used in the past is called &amp;quot;Tool Magic,&amp;quot; but doing a search for &amp;quot;rubber coating for tools&amp;quot; turned up a bunch of different products that could work equally well. I would test whatever you try to make sure you can remove it easily like she mentions in her article, but otherwise use whatever of this type of product that you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article also mentions using tools like the one that you linked to in your answer, but I, like the author of the article, have been disappointed whenever I have tried those tools--mostly because the additional surfaces made it difficult to work within the fairly restricted confines of the rings used for chain mail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T07:53:56.887" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T07:53:56.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3452" CreationDate="2017-09-14T17:14:17.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While papier-mache is undoubtedly the easiest way to make this type of 'plague doctor masks', the originals were made of leather and if you have the skills/tools/patience to do so you may find that you prefer the look (if not the weight) of the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several tutorials and patterns available - see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Plague-Doctor-Mask/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://makezine.com/2016/08/19/make-this-amazing-plague-doctors-mask/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T17:14:17.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3444" CreationDate="2017-09-16T09:44:41.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use vinegar mixed with water or small amount of nail varnish remover (acetone).  By using it gently and using less nail varnish remover nothing will happen to your fabric colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2017-09-18T18:22:25.973" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T18:22:25.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-16T14:47:39.193" Score="4" ViewCount="1883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have boxes made from MDF which are covered with some fabric. I'd like to print stickers/labels and stick/glue them onto those boxes (and thus onto the fabric).  I have an inkjet printer capable of printing on photo paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boxes are to be used by children, thus the stickers/labels need to withstand a lot of stress and wear, also including saliva.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What kind of paper should I use, and how can I glue this to the fabric?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is there some paper readily available which already has glue suitable for this purpose on it? Or which can be ironed to the boxes? (Or would this damage the box?)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is vinylic foil a possibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot remove the fabric from the MDF to work with it - this would destroy the boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2612" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T10:05:44.783" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T06:10:01.810" Title="Glue/Stick printed labels/stickers onto fabric" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|printing|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3444" CreationDate="2017-09-16T14:58:11.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eucalyptus Oil. Apply with an old tooth brush, scrub gently until the residue starts to loosen, clean the brush with a paper towel and reapply oil until residue is gone. Wash as normal :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2613" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T14:58:11.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2017-09-16T15:17:45.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use self adhesive clear pockets and print the labels to place inside. Available in a range of sizes from A6 to A3 depending on your needs. They are made from durable PVC, you just peel off the protective paper and apply. Self adhesive CD pockets may also work although not as durable as the pvc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2613" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T15:17:45.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-16T18:02:39.717" Score="4" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of empty toilet paper tubes, that I'm using for a project (see my previous question). However, sometimes, before I have a chance to staple them, the tubes get crushed. (I keep them in my room and I'm not the most neat person...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They end up like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6zXG6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They then end up rather... square when I unbend them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A8Bqpm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to uncrush them so that they're circular again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1482" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T21:39:30.197" Title="Is there any way to uncrush an empty toilet paper tube so that it's circular again?" Tags="|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3463" CreationDate="2017-09-16T18:22:40.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going by a tool we use work, I would try with blowing up a thin narrow balloon inside them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The kind of balloon they use for balloon figures would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool we use at work has a two part beak and uses a cylinder to power the beaks apart. But there we do not need to unbend just cardboard tubes but rolls of material with a card board tube center.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I do not see a way to immitate that tool, but then, I also do not see the need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T18:22:40.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3463" CreationDate="2017-09-16T21:39:30.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you won't be able to completely &quot;uncrush&quot; the tube again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that we are dealing with cardboard here, which is essentially a mass of compacted fibers. When you create a crease (or two as in your photo), you are effectively destroying the fibers' structure and tearing some of them. Straightening the crease with mean you still have torn fibers at the former crease, no matter which method you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to reshape nevertheless, pressure on the two creased ends alone will create a parabolic shape and likely that new crease in the middle (or at a weak point somewhere) and the &quot;square&quot; result. At minimum, you need to &quot;hold back&quot; the center with your second hand, molding the original shape. Combined with a cylindrical balloon (blow up once first and deflate again for easier use) from Willeke's answer, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's a big caveat:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you need tubes with maximum stability for some &quot;load bearing&quot; in your project, the reshaped ones might &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; good, but will bend again at the creases almost immediately. You might want to discard them and resort to intact ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T21:39:30.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2017-09-16T23:33:22.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is iron-on transfer paper that will work in an inkjet printer, but I took a quick look at the instructions and it actually takes quite a lot of ironing to attach it, and I would be concerned about potential heat damage to the underlying box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better solution might be to use some sort of transfer process to print on your fabric, and then use a fusible web to attach it to the fabric on your box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://so-sew-easy.com/how-to-print-on-fabric-at-home/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; with instructions for printing on fabric, which states that the biggest challenge is to get the fabric stiff enough to go through the printer.  All of the solutions call for adhering something to the fabric to stiffen it. The last solution...use a fusible web!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that you adhere the web to a piece of fabric large enough to feed through your printer. Once you have printed on the fabric, you cut out the section you want to place on you box, and follow the instructions that come with the fusible web for adhering to your box fabric. If you choose a fairly lightweight fabric for printing, the appropriate fusible web will not require much time under an iron to adhere, lessening the likelihood of damaging your box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I agree with @willeke, you need to make sure the print itself is waterproof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-09-16T23:33:22.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3411" CreationDate="2017-09-17T11:14:50.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the magazines are glossy then it might be a bit tricky, non-glossy ones should work fine when treated with White Spirit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2615" LastActivityDate="2017-09-17T11:14:50.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3481" CreationDate="2017-09-18T09:07:18.663" Score="9" ViewCount="983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given an oil based painting drawn by my relative (very dear to me). I live near the beach and we've had trouble with moisture/dampness. The painting is framed but not covered by glass or anything. Would it get affected/damaged by the salty air?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2617" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T13:23:44.530" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T13:23:44.530" Title="Oil painting in coastal environment" Tags="|preservation|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3379" CreationDate="2017-09-18T13:42:33.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you looked into &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=lexan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lexan&lt;/a&gt;? It's rigid and clear, holds its shape pretty well, comes in a range of thicknesses and can allow you to have layers in your work. I've made home-made white boards by mounting it on top of white paper but you could be more creative if you want to put different colors or pictures/collages, etc behind the lexan and draw on top. I don't have any experience using them with oil stick though, only white board markers. You could always coat in a clear sealant perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T13:42:33.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3314" CreationDate="2017-09-18T16:46:42.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sequins are wonderful and magical, but do take a lot of time to attach by hand one-by-one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gluing&lt;/em&gt; is not a great option, but can be a good quick fix.  One problem with glue is unless you are surgical in your technique, the glue can get on the front of the sequin and make it cloudy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another watch-out with glue is that the glue tends to be stronger than the sequin, and unlike using thread where the sequin can adjust to pressure, the glue holds the sequin firmly in place which means it can be easily crushed or broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to attach sequins with a &lt;em&gt;sewing machine&lt;/em&gt; (see No. 10 method of attaching sequins in the link below), but that method also requires some precision and attention to detail, and it's debatable whether it is really faster than sewing by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible to attach sequins with a very small &lt;em&gt;crochet hook&lt;/em&gt; (Method 7).  Once you get the hang of this method it might be pretty fast, but I have never tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question about &lt;em&gt;rivets&lt;/em&gt; is, &quot;probably no.&quot;  Rivets would have one of the same problems as glue - a rivet will be stronger than the sequin, the rivet will hold, but the sequin will break.  The hand-sewing equivalent to a rivet is the bead.  Instead of bringing your needle up through the center of the sequin and down over the edge of the sequin, you wrap the thread over the edge of the bead and back down through the hole in the sequin.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;bead&lt;/em&gt; technique (Method 5) has the benefits of not having the thread showing on the sequin, not holding the sequin so tight that it breaks, and a clear bead can add even more shine while a colored bead can add interesting color effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say what you are attaching the sequins to.  If it's decorative art that will be looked at or displayed but not worn or handled too much, the glue might work as long as you apply the tiniest amount it takes to attach the sequin, and being sure not to get any glue on the front of the sequin. But even in this case, the glue will hold the sequin in place and can reduce some of the shimmer that comes from the sequin moving and sifting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For decorative art, a rivet might work, you might come up with some cool &quot;rivet&quot; ideas, e.g., maybe modifying a clear plastic &quot;bead and string&quot; gun like those used to attach price tags to clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to buy &quot;strings&quot; of sequins (Method 9 in the link), but they don't look as nice as the individually-applied sequins do.  That might be an option though if time is your biggest concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sewguide.com/how-to-sew-sequins/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sewguide.com/how-to-sew-sequins/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;•   Which Needle to use with sequins?&#xA;•   Which Thread to use with sequins?&#xA;•   Method 1.Attaching individual sequins&#xA;•   Method 2 Attaching sequins in a row with back stitches&#xA;•   Method 3 Attaching sequins in a row – with two straight stitches&#xA;•   Method 4 Attaching sequins  – with straight stitches&#xA;•   Method 5 Attaching sequins with a bead&#xA;•   Method 6 Attaching large sequins at the edge &#xA;•   Method 7 Attaching sequins  with a special needle&#xA;•   Method 8 Attach sequins with fabric glue&#xA;•   Method 9 Attaching sequin trim&#xA;•   Method 10 Attaching sequins with a sewing machine &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T16:46:42.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-19T01:24:16.777" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in architecture and have been wanting to design a house/building and then create a model for quite some time. I just am now able to do this, but I am not sure where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current resources are Walmart, Home Depot, and Joanne's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to create something that I can do in the small space of my apartment room at college. I don't have a garage to use, so any big tools would be really inconvenient, and I obviously don't have the funds for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at some wood and papers used for model homes, but I'm not sure that I can find them at the places I listed above (I also don't have a car, so I have to walk with these items up to 2 miles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I'm looking for are suggestions for some cheap material that I can use to create a small model home. All materials such as for the structure itself, substance to attach the pieces together, tools like X-Acto knife or something, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could think of some things myself and do it by trial and error, but I would prefer help from somebody who has made model homes themselves and knows whats best with cheap materials. And if cardboard is your suggestion, then tips on what to use to cut the cardboard with would be helpful! (Scissors suck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-06-13T20:22:44.173" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T21:14:20.273" Title="What are some DIY simple tools to use to make a model scale home?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3472" CreationDate="2017-09-19T03:20:03.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thin foam core or cardboard, card stock, and balsa or lime sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three of these things together are light weight, inexpensive, and should be available at craft stores or on the web (the balsa can be purchased on Amazon but you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; find it in JoAnn's). They can all be cut simply with a sharp Xacto-type blade or scalpel. You'll likely be able to find these items at either a craft store or (possibly) an office store. I used to work at a university book store and they actually sold kits for the architecture students in the art section, so if there's a university nearby with an architecture program, see what they have on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modelmakers-uk.co.uk/students-advice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic guide&lt;/a&gt; supports these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As far as materials are concerned, unless you have easy access to a workshop and a reasonable level of experience with machinery, it would be best to work with card or foam-board or similar, easy-to-cut materials such as Balsa or Lime wood. In other words, anything that you can cut with either a sharp blade or junior hack saw and stick together with conventional shop bought glues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also recommends using some other tools to help ensure your lines are perpendicular (or at the proper angle you wish) and straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And when you are cutting, if possible, try to use a square, especially if you are cutting out floor plates or elevations. Keeping everything square is crucial if you want to achieve a neat, crisp finish for your building. It’s also worth investing in a metal ruler as you will find a plastic or wooden ruler will get damaged very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to use the knife, the importance is patience and technique. Use several shallow passes to get through the thicker foam or cardboards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whether you’re cutting with a craft knife or a scalpel, it's better to use several light passes rather than trying to cut all the way through with one go. You’ll get a cleaner cut and you’re less likely to slip and cut your finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad was an architect and these were the sorts of tools he used, so if they're good enough for pros, they should be good for you, too! Best of luck finding the supplies and building your dream home (scale model)! Oh, be sure to do a lot of practicing before trying to build your final house. This is a slow, careful process that takes a lot of practice, so be patient with yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T03:20:03.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3452" CreationDate="2017-09-19T10:47:49.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can borrow or build a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_forming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vacuum former&lt;/a&gt; it's quite easy, especially as you have something to use as a mould (which might need reinforcing but you would no longer care about the weight).  Many plastics will vacuum form; some of them are easy to cut out of the parent sheet once cooled and some of themwill take appropriate paint very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Vacuum-Former-Box-30/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example build instructions for a quick-and dirty vacuum former&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T10:47:49.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-19T13:45:18.433" Score="3" ViewCount="1623" Body="&lt;p&gt;When painting miniatures, I like to base them to look like they're standing in a grassy field. To do this, I normally use a combination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Static-Grass-for-Model-Railway-Architecture-Warhammer-Scenery-Model-1-2-4-6mm/302219040410?hash=item465da8969a%3Am%3AmkdD2Q-iKgQyOAzC0_eK1yg&amp;amp;var=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;loose static grass&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/X117-Rough-Grass-Tufts-6mm-Self-Adhesive-Static-Model-Wargames-Scenery/1460394196?iid=271786927542&amp;amp;var=570614729616&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;commercially available grass tufts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tufts often look much better than the static grass, but have a couple of issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're significantly more expensive. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The glue used doesn't stick securely to the base, which means I have to glue it anyway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of the glue disc, the tuft often doesn't sit flat on the base, especially when the base isn't flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the above, it seems like making my own tufts in situ would solve all of these problems, so &lt;strong&gt;how can I make my own grass tufts?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have plenty of static grass, but when I glue it directly to the bases it doesn't 'clump' in the same way as real tufts do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2017-09-19T15:26:15.457" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T10:23:52.480" Title="How can I make my own grass tufts for miniatures?" Tags="|miniatures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3476" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-09-19T13:46:13.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Related tags:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/model-making&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;model-making&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;model-making&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;model-making-container&quot;&gt;model-making&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cutting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cutting&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cutting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;cutting-container&quot;&gt;cutting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;painting-container&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mold-making&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mold-making&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mold-making&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;mold-making-container&quot;&gt;mold-making&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sculpting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpting&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;sculpting-container&quot;&gt;sculpting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/adhesives&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;adhesives&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;adhesives&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;adhesives-container&quot;&gt;adhesives&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/plastic&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;plastic&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;plastic&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;plastic-container&quot;&gt;plastic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/wood&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;wood-container&quot;&gt;wood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;paper-container&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/metal&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;metal&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;metal&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;metal-container&quot;&gt;metal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;technique-selection-container&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;material-selection-container&quot;&gt;material-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tool-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tool-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tool-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tool-selection-container&quot;&gt;tool-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-10-09T18:27:25.707" LastActivityDate="2022-10-09T18:27:25.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3477" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-09-19T13:46:13.560" Score="0" Body="Questions related to making, painting, basing, or repairing small scale models and miniatures. Use for questions in which the miniature size differentiates unique requirements, preferably in combination with the tag for the specific procedure your question is about." OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-12T23:58:19.937" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T23:58:19.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3475" CreationDate="2017-09-19T14:11:06.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stiff fibres such as you get in sisal twine or jute string  can work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put a dab of glue on the end before you cut it is fairly easy to make individual tufts, just cut to length and unravel the twine. You can also bundle more strands together to make larger tufts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The natural colour is fine for dry grass, if you want it more green it is probably better to dye it beforehand rather rather than try to paint the tufts themselves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T14:11:06.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3452" CreationDate="2017-09-19T21:45:47.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I didn't have the fifty bucks to buy one from a costume supply and had the time and patience to create; my affordable project would need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;old adjustable ball cap&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Velcro or leather boot laces (laces are more attractive)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hot glue or stapler&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cardboard (not corrugated, unless in a pinch)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;metal stud from Thrift Store or Dry wall nails&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pleather, naugahide,  or any strip of faux leather&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now cut the bill of the ball cap to form a beak.  Then remove the crown as well, but leave room for the eye holes.  Should the adjustment strap on the back not be enough, add the Velcro or (my preference) leather laces.  Make room for the bridge of your nose if need be, then try on the mask foundation.  Make it comfortable and then proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your cardboard  (old monopoly box top), cut out a long slim triangle and bend to shape.  If you wet it the bending will be easier and the board will hold some of the form when dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now staple or glue the formed beak to the bill of your cap.  When affixed move to the faux leather.  Cover the beak and, if there is enough, make a hood.  Glue or staple to cap. Trim off excess. Don't forget the eye holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find some Krylon and spray every bit of the creation in your favorite color or lack of color in this case.  Then stud it up, hiding the staples.  Drywall nails have large heads and bend easily (aluminum) and can be as eye appealing as metal studs. They will need glue to stay in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now go into the world protected from biting fleas and good luck at your future events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2624" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T21:45:47.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3468" CreationDate="2017-09-20T05:45:50.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on a lot of factors, not only salty air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the temperature change drastically day to night?&#xA;How is the humidity level, very high? Very low? Changing a lot day to night?&#xA;Does the painting hang in a sunny (i.e. direct sunlight) place or a shaded location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yes, salty air will directy affect the oil paint itself (either by drying on the surface and leaving salty residue, salt is hygroscopic and will dry the paint out and probably lead to cracks in the paint) and the canvas. Depending on the type of frame used to stretch the canvas, it might be necessary to regularly check the tension, too. But especially a good treatment of the backside of the canvas will help a lot (e.g. sealing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that usually walls are colder than the air in the room. This means that the painting which hangs on your wall is in the coldest area of the room (micro condensation can occur, leading to accelerated forming of cracks called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Craquelure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Craquelure&lt;/a&gt;&quot; etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an expensive painting it would be best to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get a proper frame (ask a specialist), UV filtering glass helps a lot (against UV B at least, UV A does still reach the painting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a proper frame will be well sealed not allowing a flow of air (which will transport humidity, dust etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to make sure the painting gets max. around 150LUX of light &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a temperature of 18 - 20° C would be best&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;humidity levels of 55-60% are optimal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the painting is not very expensive but important to you, I suggest to put it somewhere without direct sunlight and if possible not on an outside wall. Simply use a dry and lint-free cloth to carefully remove residues (salt or dust) from the surface of the painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2140" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T05:45:50.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3468" CreationDate="2017-09-20T05:46:08.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil paintings can be damaged by salt air and humidity. Other concerns are exposure to natural light, and sharp changes in temperature that can cause the paint to expand and contract and potentially crack or chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rare and valuable paintings are kept under controlled temperature and humidity conditions and protected from natural UV light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things that you can do to protect your painting are to keep it out of direct sunlight, and frame it with glass.  There are two things to take into account if you protect your painting with glass, (1) the paint must be completely dry, and (2) the pane of glass should not touch the painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see a similar Stack question with mention of glass placement over an oil painting: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/1777/1798&quot;&gt;Will putting an oil painting under glass cause damage?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T05:46:08.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-20T07:17:30.793" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for uncommon fonts resources to cut stencils.&#xA;They musn't have isolated parts that would be detached from the main stencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On google fonts, I can only find 3: &lt;a href=&quot;https://fonts.google.com/?query=stencil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://fonts.google.com/?query=stencil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you guide me to a greater choice resource?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2625" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T10:17:02.750" Title="Where to find stencil fonts?" Tags="|papercutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3482" CreationDate="2017-09-20T08:17:13.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dafont.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dafont.com&lt;/a&gt;. Searching for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dafont.com/search.php?q=stencil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'stencil'&lt;/a&gt; turns up a decent number of stencil/'Army' style fonts, many of which look like they could plausibly work as actual stencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-09-20T08:17:13.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-21T15:08:24.400" Score="-2" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I make the Viking origami model by Eric joisel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's diagrams are nowhere given&#xA;I searched at many places but no instructions or tutorials were available&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me out with the Viking origami model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2632" LastActivityDate="2017-09-21T15:26:42.740" Title="Eric joisel origami" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-12-07T23:34:00.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3484" CreationDate="2017-09-21T15:26:42.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that Eric Joisel is an accomplished artist in origami. His creations bring thousands of dollars for each work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, it's unlikely that you'll find any means of creating duplicates of his work, especially considering the complexity of the models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also likely that anyone who creates an exact duplicate of his work may be in violation of intellectual property laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/476jW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/476jW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;eric joisel viking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-09-21T15:26:42.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="672" CreationDate="2017-09-22T03:49:22.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise against starting with the features or even the shadows first. I have found from experience that it is the &quot;general shape&quot; of the head that houses all of the other features in some kind of semblance. For instance, if the shape of the head is slightly widened, it will affect the length and shape of the nose in relation to other features. Which, in turn will detract from a sense of &quot;likeness&quot;. Drawing from life or personally knowing them also helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're drawing in pencil, I would suggest fleshing out the beginning stages with a harder led (3H, 4H). Also, you could try this technique of gesturing the general shape(s) with your non-dominant hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2636" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2017-09-22T18:24:14.550" LastActivityDate="2017-09-22T18:24:14.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3495" CreationDate="2017-09-23T19:40:27.667" Score="4" ViewCount="951" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just learning my Singer Inspiration 4210 sewing machine. &#xA;I've had some good luck with it so far, got some basic stitching done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it jammed up on me, I had to pull it all out and tethered the bobbin and now I can't raise the bobbins thread. From what I can see, when I turn the wheel towards me, it's spinning around the bobbins but that piece doesn't grab the thread on my needle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSIzC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Little video of it not working. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/yPNt2UKMleU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/yPNt2UKMleU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did we pull to hard and forced it out of wack? Is there an adjustment screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2640" LastEditorUserId="2640" LastEditDate="2017-09-23T20:14:28.467" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T12:51:01.647" Title="Raising the bobbin thread doesn't work" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3493" CreationDate="2017-09-24T07:03:20.633" Score="4" ViewCount="2009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a badge which uses a &lt;em&gt;stick pin&lt;/em&gt; attachment piece like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ierBA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ierBA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is quite a tricky mechanism to use and align properly, so I would like to swap the stick pin for a &lt;em&gt;butterfly clutch&lt;/em&gt; like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.lapelpins.net/wp-content/uploads/200x150butterflyclutch.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I go about doing this? Is it possible to do with just some basic tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, I have an old butterfly clutch badge which I do not use anymore. Would it be possible to take the clutch from this old badge and attach it to the new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2641" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T10:00:40.980" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T10:00:40.980" Title="How can I convert a stick pin badge to a butterfly clasp?" Tags="|jewelry|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3482" CreationDate="2017-09-24T07:18:11.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other resources I can suggest are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.1001fonts.com/stenciled-fonts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.1001fonts.com/stenciled-fonts.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.urbanfonts.com/fonts/stencil-fonts.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.urbanfonts.com/fonts/stencil-fonts.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try out which suits your design best.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Check out sites that have &quot;free&quot; download option for flexibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not free, you can redo/recreate some letters you need in Adobe Illustrator/Corel Draw, just get the letters you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2642" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-09-24T10:17:02.750" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T10:17:02.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3490" CreationDate="2017-09-25T14:01:03.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For removing the stick pin backing, you need to remove the parts that stick out and file it down to be smooth. To remove, I'd use one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a Dremel tool with appropriate bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if it looks like the badge was soldered, a soldering iron to un-solder it. (Make sure that the front of the badge won't be damaged by the heat, and follow safety precautions! If you guessed wrong and it was epoxied, heating it may release toxic fumes.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a pair of wire cutters, depending on how substantial the pin back is. (This would work well on the butterfly clasp pin pictured, not so sure about the stick pin version.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then to smooth the back, you could use a metal file or a Dremel tool with a grinding bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To attach the new pin, I would just buy a new butterfly clasp base at a craft store (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.michaels.com/bead-landing-pin-with-clutch-back/M10443119.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;). If you really wanted to re-use the clasp from the other badge, definitely use the Dremel tool, as you will need to cut a base for the pin and not just clip the straight pin off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you just need to epoxy or solder it to the now-smooth badge back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-09-25T17:25:08.820" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T17:25:08.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3490" CreationDate="2017-09-25T17:28:24.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that @whrrgarbl has given you all of the correct steps for accomplishing this change.  I just wanted to add a couple of additional comments regarding that answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is bullet-point number 3. Use wire cutters or &lt;strong&gt;a jewelers saw&lt;/strong&gt; to clip/saw the ends of the stick pin as close to the pin's rectangular base as you can. Then use a jewelers needle file, or Dremel tool to file those ends so that they are flush with the rectangular base.  Then you can use epoxy or jeweler's glue to affix a new butterfly clasp to the rectangular piece itself and you don't have to worry about un-soldering it at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you will be much more successful if you can afford to spend a small amount of money to purchase a few new items: a new stick pin&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; , and, if you don't have a Dremel tool, an inexpensive set of jeweler's needle files.  I just found &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00E8ER10G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a set on Amazon&lt;/a&gt; that are less than $10-I use a similar set that I purchased at a discount hardware store for about the same amount. They will have a finer grit and smaller points that are much more effective than any files you might already have in your tool kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; In order to reuse the stick pin you already have, you have to remove it--with its base--from the pin it is currently on and then manage to get the base perfectly flat for re-adhering.  Not an easy process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T17:28:24.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3488" CreationDate="2017-09-26T12:51:01.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much searching, reading and watching videos I figured it out. I took the machine apart to adjust the &quot;needle timing&quot; (key words to search for). Sadly there is no video or instructions for this model specifically, so I'll summarize here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the back cover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the bobbin assembly, and the cover over the spinning hook mechanism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note the gear on the bottom with 2 screws, loosen the screws just a little and the spinning hook will move freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Align the tip of the hook to start just above the hole of the needle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten screws and reassemble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MAKE SURE your needle is on the upswing, not the down swing. Before reassembly, pull the wheel towards you to ensure it spins around freely. Also, if you adjust it to be left/center/right or zig zag, I recommend aligning the hook and the needle on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe i'll make a video....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2640" LastActivityDate="2017-09-26T12:51:01.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3383" CreationDate="2017-09-27T00:32:49.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;em&gt;stay stitch&lt;/em&gt; close to my intended edge and manually snip the fray. Easy peasy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2017-09-27T00:32:49.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-09-27T20:06:43.513" Score="1" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.getprepd.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an amazing product online&lt;/a&gt; and my only qualm with it was that it came with plastic containers (I try to &lt;a href=&quot;https://myplasticfreelife.com/2011/04/bpa-free-does-not-mean-safe-most-plastics-leach-hormone-disrupting-chemicals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;avoid plastic when dealing with food&lt;/a&gt; as much as I can). I asked the company if they plan on making a version using glass but they said no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way that I could create the exact same shape as the original containers (just the bottom part) but out of glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to do this on my own:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are techniques I could use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How/where could I find materials and/or tools?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are all types of glass &quot;Food Safe&quot;? I know there are different&#xA;types of glass for different things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I personally do not have much experience with glasswork (I blew glass ornaments in a class once) so would you recommend outsourcing this instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any difference (besides price) in going to a company with a commission of this kind over going to an individual artist? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: Cost is not an inhibitor to me. I value my health as it is with me all my life, and I can always make more money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2017-09-28T13:09:27.083" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T14:45:01.673" Title="Create a glass replica of something made of plastic (or other material)" Tags="|glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2017-09-27T22:28:51.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really that lame at all. It is something you want to be able to do on your own, and if squinting helps than you are one step closer to that than if you are using some other tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color has hue, saturation, and value (or tone.) What you are doing in your minds eye is ignoring the first two to extract the third. But there is also relative color, and the tone you get from one color will appear very different depending on the colors around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grey scale is a just a tool that has done the first step for you, so you can compare side by side to get your value name, usually in 10% steps of the percentage of darkness where 0% is pure light/white and 100% is pure darkness/black. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, the faster you can ween yourself off of using devices to interpret tone values the sooner you can do it purely in your minds eye and the better off you will be. It is the tone you choose to apply along with its neighbors in the artwork that matters, not its name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2017-09-27T22:34:06.020" LastActivityDate="2017-09-27T22:34:06.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3499" CreationDate="2017-09-27T22:41:52.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are familiar with working with hot glass you would be better off seeking an glassworker to do this for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways you could replicate the container: different kinds of casting or slumping (heating glass to soften it and letting gravity take over) but they are complicated, involve specialty tools and materials, and 1200°F-2000°F glass. Not something you could do on your own, unless you do glass working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said there are plenty of glass artists around. Try to find a studio in your area. Art schools would also be a good place to find someone to do this for you. It would be an excellent exercise for a student in the glass dept. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A web search for &quot;custom glass container manufacturing&quot; has a few hits, but they are about making longer production runs like specialty bottles for a distiller. If money is no object you might convince them to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2017-09-29T14:45:01.673" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T14:45:01.673" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3499" CreationDate="2017-09-28T00:04:16.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question about whether all glass is food safe got me to wondering myself. I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.delphiglass.com/blog/everything-else/is-it-safe-to-use-fused-glass-for-dinnerware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; regarding fused glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The official answer from the glass manufacturers is, All tested compatible glasses have been tested by the FDA for food bearing surfaces and were determined to be suitable.However, if you add other processes or compounds to the items, for example paint, stains, decals, glazes, etc. it is important to check that these items are also approved for food bearing surfaces...Also, at Delphi we take food safety and dinnerware very seriously. We always recommend that certain glasses are capped with clear. These are usually irids, dichro and glass with texture, since these can also trap food particles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concerns raised here regarding fused glass would also apply to blown glass, as pretty much the same glass is used for both types of glassworking, only the starting shapes are different (glass stringers vs. glass sheets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, whichever way you created your final product (slumping/fusing would probably work best here), you would want to encapsulate any colored glass or decorative elements within a coating of clear glass to ensure food safety.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the article quoted above points out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it is of the utmost importance that dinnerware items be properly annealed, especially if youre going to place hot food on them - the thermal shock could cause a break in poorly annealed items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure that you could find someone to make this product for you--however, keep in mind that it is likely to be quite expensive. Most glassware is manufactured in industrial factories, making it fairly cost-effective.  But, whether you did it yourself, or found someone to do it for you, hand-making individual glass dishes is going to be quite a bit more expensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for fun, I did a quick look to try and figure out what your cost might be. Based on the prices (in US dollars) on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artglasssupplies.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A mold for forming your dish (this one isn't exactly right, but it is as close as I could find on this website-$24.89:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0Tsc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0Tsc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a 9&quot; circle of clear glass-$15.90&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eBdVL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eBdVL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A kiln-$715.91 (this is my best guess--as a very novice glassworker--about the least expensive kiln that will handle your project)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRIS0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRIS0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to make one of these containers yourself, it appears that you would have to pay $756.70 for the first container.  Additional containers would be a comparative steal at only $15.90 a piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T00:04:16.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="200" CreationDate="2017-09-29T15:00:15.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper is the best way to go. The Art Stix are square, just &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; drag the side you want to use along a flat piece of sandpaper, medium fine grit (~200?) The sandpaper will clog up immediately if too fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can actually find little sandpaper blocks at art stores, they are called &quot;Sandpaper Pencil Pointers&quot; and should do the trick. They are a few sheets of sandpaper stapled to a spatula like thing so you can keep it in your art box. A couple of quick strokes should take the coating off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T15:00:15.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3508" CreationDate="2017-09-29T18:23:49.017" Score="3" ViewCount="3705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got this here ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVskP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVskP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's covered in some sort of grey paint or varnish that I can scrape off to reveal a copper base. I'd like to remove all of the varnish, and scraping will only do so much - I cannot, for example, scrape off the varnish on the inner edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I use to remove the varnish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T13:47:08.287" Title="How to remove coating from metal ring?" Tags="|metal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2017-09-29T18:42:26.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with acetone (nail polish remover) and see if that does the trick. Agitating with a Q-tip can speed things along. It all depends on what the coating is, but acetone won't hurt the copper so it's a good place to start. If it works but isn't fast, you might try soaking it for an hour or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more aggressive approach would be oven cleaner, but it's likely to remove any patina from the copper and shouldn't be left on there too long. Also make sure to rinse thoroughly with water afterwards to remove any caustic residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T18:42:26.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3452" CreationDate="2017-09-29T18:44:35.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My go-to materials for something like this would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://entropyhouse.com/penwiper/costumes/helmsdeep.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;craft foam&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worbla.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Worbla&lt;/a&gt;. These two materials are easily heat-formed into lightweight, reasonably sturdy pieces. For craft foam, a gas stove or heavy duty hair-dryer can be used as the source of heat, but for Worbla something more substantial like a heat gun is ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend first making a pattern for the mask out of taped-together construction paper and then using that to cut out &amp;amp; shape foam or Worbla pieces to your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T18:44:35.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3005" CreationDate="2017-09-30T21:39:18.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is Worsley is using all of the techniques, in combination, for all of the parts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be able to analyze a work like this you need to know how each of the mediums are used, ie. the various ways they are applied, how they behave when applied and how they interact with each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crayon makes a variety of marks; broader than a pen-stroke; sensitive&#xA;to pressure; shows texture of paper.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pen uses ink and makes a hard edged stroke of different weights; ink is liquid so it will diffuse in wet areas, be sharp in others, can be brushed for washes, etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gouache is opaque watercolor and is applied by brush; used to make areas of solid and blended colors as well and sharp details; will also diffuse in wet areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment with the different mediums cited, both on their own and in combination, to understand what is going on in the artworks and then you can reproduce that style. All of the techniques here have extensive documentation in print and online to get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2017-09-30T21:39:18.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="49" CreationDate="2017-09-30T23:29:19.653" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green dop wax is best. &lt;strong&gt;Don't&lt;/strong&gt; use glue. I read something about colour loss up there, god knows what they are on about this is untrue. Opal is relatively soft, treat it with care. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the stone off again, leave it in the freezer for half an hour to harden the wax, it will pop off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I grew up on the field in Lightning Ridge and found, cut and sold my first opal when I was seven years old. I have 35 years industry experience. I say this to give you a base line to judge the value of my advice against others who might say otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T01:08:10.777" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T01:08:10.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2017-10-01T05:15:56.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing you could try is lemon essential oil. It's very strong in this pure form and tends to eat away at things. It won't have any effect on the copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T05:15:56.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-01T13:00:19.467" Score="-1" ViewCount="3456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to solve its crease pattern but it was very difficult. There are no tutorials for it. Can anyone help me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2632" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T18:24:19.943" Title="How to make the origami alduin made by satoshi kamiya" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-12-20T21:08:42.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3513" CreationDate="2017-10-01T21:09:00.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this website where you should be able to find instructions on how to make it, however, you may need to translate it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.folders.jp/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.folders.jp/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading youtube comments on a tutorial of someone making the alduin and they said the CP's were on the kamiya site. So I found that link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck (:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-10-01T21:09:00.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3507" CreationDate="2017-10-04T19:25:40.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the acetone suggested earlier doesn't work, put the ring into paint thinner to soak (or mineral spirits, but paint thinner is somewhat less expensive and simply a less refined version of mineral spirits). Let it soak at least 15 minutes, then brush with an old stiff toothbrush. If the varnish comes off, put the ring into fresh paint thinner to soak a few minutes, in order to remove the final residue, wiping the ring between rinsing soaks. Let dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the varnish does not come off with a 15 minute soak in the paint thinner, then soak for increasingly long periods of time, up to an hour, followed each time by vigorous brushing. Whenever it does come off, finish up with several rinsing soaks in fresh paint thinner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after longer soaks the 'varnish' still isn't attacked by the paint thinner, then it is probably some sort of epoxy resin coating, or enameling that has been fired on, and only mechanical methods, such as scraping, will safely take it off. (Paint thinner will soften epoxy resins but scraping is still necessary to remove it--brushing will simply spread it around. Also there are very aggressive approaches such as hydrofluoric acid that would attack enameling, but the safety risks are not worth it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2100" LastEditorUserId="2100" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T13:47:08.287" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T13:47:08.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-04T23:37:48.130" Score="5" ViewCount="1645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to dress up as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beaker_(Muppet)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beaker from the Muppets&lt;/a&gt; for Halloween. For those unfamiliar with the Muppets he looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75n8i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75n8i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;It&amp;#39;s Beaker&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I need to make a large mask/helmet that will fit over my head. The overall construction would be fairly simple where the hair, eyes, and mouth are concerned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My issue is I don't know how I can control the mouth. I want it to be able to move without any obviously showing controls. Since I am against the method his mouth is normally controlled on the puppet I need to make it open &lt;em&gt;somehow&lt;/em&gt;. Closing seems simple enough if I uses elastics to pull it closed again. I am unsure how I can get some sort of cord in place to pull it open &lt;em&gt;without being seen&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a perfect world it would be something that I could use without having to place my hands need my chest for a pull cord but I am not holding out for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T00:17:52.837" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T00:43:35.773" Title="How can I make this costume mouth open and close?" Tags="|costume-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3518" CreationDate="2017-10-05T00:43:35.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a basic strategy, you might consider having the elastic/spring hold the mouth &lt;em&gt;open&lt;/em&gt;, and use something controlled by your mouth to close it when you close your own mouth. That way you could make him talk in a realistic way by simply opening your mouth each time you say a word, which of course you'd want to do anyway :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as mechanism is concerned, a &quot;string&quot; (tensile member) of some sort might be easiest. My mind goes to a cable of the sort used on bicycle hand-brakes, where the cable runs through a housing. This would give you flexibility to position the actuator anywhere you wanted without having to worry about keeping the &quot;cable&quot; tight. The cables they use for gear shifters are lighter gauge and would still be plenty strong enough. Maybe you could adapt a set of costume teeth (maybe vampire type or something) to act as the actuator. That would fit in your mouth but still allow you to speak and you could maneuver them in and out of your mouth I expect without too much trouble, even without use of your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the &quot;mouth controller&quot; end of the cable could just pull the bottom lip in when you close the teeth, perhaps with a coil spring (ball-point pen type, maybe longer) doing the needful to open the mouth on the return stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T00:43:35.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-05T03:02:16.007" Score="3" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please ignore the added filters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc6pl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hc6pl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YekiI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YekiI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2682" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T12:03:47.350" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T12:03:47.350" Title="What is the name of this drawing style of images?" Tags="|drawing|style-identification|illustration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3523" CreationDate="2017-10-05T05:23:13.600" Score="3" ViewCount="7956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a pair of Dansko clogs from a clothing swap and was dismayed to realize after closer inspection that they have a flower pattern embossed all over them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dansko.com/Womens/Footwear/Styles/clogs/Pro%20XP/Black%20Floral%20Tooled&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coevi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shoes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dansko.com/Womens/Footwear/Styles/clogs/Pro%20XP/Black%20Floral%20Tooled&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dansko.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to remove it? I'm considering either sanding or using water and heat to try to minimize it as much as possible, then redying them. Any better ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2378" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T02:53:34.660" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T00:07:31.673" Title="How to remove embossing from leather" Tags="|clothing|leather|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-05T21:24:50.287" Score="3" ViewCount="1496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to create a few dozen opaque domes/hemispheres of various sizes from 80 cm to 120 cm.  The shape is pretty basic, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apCvgm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apCvgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cmspinning.com/images/hemisphere_landing_large.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The domes have to be foldable into smaller pieces for easy transportation and storage. Think heavy duty rubber gloves but just dome shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if there are elastic sheet materials available to create these domes that I could vacuum form similar to rigid materials such as ABS plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there might be rubber domes available for sale so I wouldn't waste time making my own.  But I'm going to make slight changes to the perfect dome shape, so I need to make my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible candidates: TPE (thermoplastic elastomer), TPR (thermoplastic rubber), TPO (thermoplastic olefin), low density polypropylene, low density polyethylene, vinyl aka PVC, Polyurethane, EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate). Some seller websites claim these can be thermoformed, but there is virtually no other source, video, etc. available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="855" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-16T00:26:26.283" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T00:26:26.283" Title="Vacuum forming/thermoforming elastic materials?" Tags="|plastic|rubber|thermoplastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3521" CreationDate="2017-10-06T09:31:00.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I've not tried this, so I can't guarantee it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I've &lt;a href=&quot;https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/de-embossing-leather-questions.69505/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seen suggested&lt;/a&gt; is to soak the leather with water and then heat it - this should cause the fibres to swell and reduce the depth of the debossing (embossing is raising a material, debossing is lowering it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue with this is that I've only heard of it being done on untreated veg-tanned leather, which your shoes almost certainly are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to successfully have the leather absorb the water, you'll first need to remove the covering. This can be done with a little soap and water, or (more drastically, and more likely to damage your shoes) with acetone or rubbing alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've done that, stuff your shoes with something to keep their shape, and then soak + heat (a hairdryer or heat gun is the best option here). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T09:31:00.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3522" CreationDate="2017-10-06T12:07:50.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any flexible rubbers which can be formed by vacuforming.  In my experience, when you start with a flat sheet of flexible rubber and press it against a mold, it pretty much returns to being a flat sheet of rubber when the pressure is released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can however cast &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/943-Flex-30.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flexible rubber&lt;/a&gt; (in liquid form) into a mold with your desired hollow hemisphere shape and then let it cure in the mold.  This will result in your hemisphere being the natural shape of the rubber to which it will return after each deformation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to use a two part mold (one part to provide the outer shape of the bowl and the other to occupy the hollow interior while the foam is curing).  Two nesting bowls can be used together as the mold with the difference in the bowl sizes defining the wall thickness of your final rubber part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T12:07:50.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3305" CreationDate="2017-10-06T23:24:28.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some pigments used in inks are UV sensitive and disappear rather quickly when exposed to sunlight, others remain unaffected. Having in mind the colours you need, make some research about which pigments are used to make your desired colours and which of them are UV sensitive and which are not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check what water-based products are available on the market and if you can figure out which pigments they use (they are likely to be written in their catalogue which are generally available online) go for the ones you have found out that are not UV sensitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can buy ground non-UV sensitive pigments and learn how to make your own watercolours (follow the health and safety instructions of the tutorials, as some of the pigments are toxic). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your problem is the UV light, if you want to use varnish, etc to preserve the colours you should look for something that would acts as a UV filter (without affecting your drawing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you may want to consider using oil-based markers instead of alcohol-based ones. They may do a better job at keeping your outline drawing ink/watercolour-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2690" LastEditorUserId="2690" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T00:31:25.353" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T00:31:25.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3313" CreationDate="2017-10-07T05:27:20.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have yet to try this for my own home brew bottles but I've read (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=354082&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for example) that unflavoured gelatin powder dissolved in water also works in the same way milk does. Labels are supposedly easily removed when you wash them, and you avoid the possibility of the milk going sour and creating an odour. I haven't tried the milk method either, so I can't confirm the odour complaints of some home brewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-02T09:25:53.103" LastActivityDate="2019-10-02T09:25:53.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-07T05:35:59.097" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vector file of technical drawing consisting of detailed line work that I'd like to transfer to a dark paper or card stock. Tracing, making stencils, etc. won't work due to the fine, complex lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have access to a screen printer that would do a one-off so I was hoping someone might have some suggestions. In case it helps, I do have access to Photoshop and Illustrator, and there are local sign shops that may have some options but cutting vinyl isn't the effect I'm going for. I'm hoping to get a more textured effect, not a faux texture created digitally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking it would be great if the line work could be transferred somehow as an adhesive which I could then sprinkle white or metallic powders over to make the drawing appear on the dark paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at a loss to figure out how to do something like that which could allow more textured line work to appear on the page so I'm open to suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T16:50:19.860" Title="Advice on transferring technical drawing/line art to dark paper, possibly metallic or white lines" Tags="|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3527" CreationDate="2017-10-07T11:06:27.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beginning at the easier level, you may find that laser printer foil will do the job. It's a product from decades ago which works well and simply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vs9Gt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vs9Gt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;laser peel off foil&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One prints an image using an ordinary laser printer. It must be a laser printer, although a toner-based copier will also work. No ink-jets!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The printed image is then covered with the foil and secured using appropriate fasteners usually provided with the product. The fasteners have to be heat resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then apply heat to the foil and image which causes the plastic powder from the toner to melt and merge with the foil. When the entire image has been heated and cooled, the foil is peeled away, leaving the new color to the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various colors are available. I've primarily used gold, but it was nearly 20 years ago and there is more variety now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can use a heat press, a clothes iron or feed the paper and foil back through the printer, using caution, to cause the fuser portion of the printer to heat the toner for bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The less easy level involves a laser cutter. That portion is left as an exercise for the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T11:06:27.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3527" CreationDate="2017-10-07T16:50:19.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look around the city you live in for a MakerSpace or other tech-tools club.  Such places often have tools which would be prohibitively expensive for an individual to own.  As a one-time visitor or for a small membership fee, you might get access to any of the following tools which would assist in your project... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Laser Cutter or Laser Etcher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A photographic-quality CNC Machine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Vinyl Cutter (to create a stencil over which you can apply metallic paint)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Photo-Etching Rig (to create a better stencil than vinyl)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A large form factor Laser Printer to use with the foils which @fred_dot_u suggested.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such equipment might also be available at a local university or even in the public library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T16:50:19.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3531" CreationDate="2017-10-07T17:23:12.190" Score="4" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a shape that I want to have cast but I don't know how to achieve this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvqTY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvqTY.png&quot; alt=&quot;this shape&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the basics of regular casting but this shape has an open interior.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The picture is the master shape.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;How can I make a plaster mold for it, in order to be able to pour a liquid clay in it?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And how will I be able to get it out without damaging the hardened clay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any known ways of achieving such a casting? And - especially - what would the correct terminology be to make me able to search more about that certain way of casting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2692" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T08:58:50.423" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T08:58:50.423" Title="Complex plaster molds for ceramics" Tags="|terminology|ceramics|mold-making|plaster|clay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3530" CreationDate="2017-10-07T18:18:00.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you could blow up a ballon to get the shape of the interior.  Then glue hex shaped objects to the surface of the ballon in the pattern of the holes.  Then build a wire framework over the tops of the hex shapes to hold them in position and to support your mold's outer shell.  Finally apply that outer shell as a series of glued vinyl sheets or paper mache.  Once that outer shell is dry, you can reinforce it with clay or silicon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should then be ready to pour in the liquid clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be a sacrificial mold, so you will mostly need to destroy it to get your casting out.  To de-mold, remove the reinforcing material and paper mache, then the wires.  Then pop the balloon and push out the hex shapes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exterior of your casting may have some lines from both the wire framework and any seams in the vinyl/paper mache.  It might also have bits of vinyl or paper mache stuck to it unless you washed the interior of the mold with lubricant before adding the clay.  Those problems should all be pretty easy to fix with a little sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T18:18:00.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3533" CreationDate="2017-10-07T20:34:29.143" Score="1" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;This probably isnt even the proper area of StackExchange to ask this, but I looked at some of the questions and seemed like it would at least be passable. If this is not the correct area, please refer me to a better one where this question could receive a proper answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was at a jewelry store earlier today looking for engagement rings, and they sized me at a 7. However, they also told me that if I planned on buying a tungsten ring, which I am very interested in, that I would need to buy a size smaller, or at least a half a size smaller, &lt;em&gt;because tungsten rings don't fit the same as normal rings&lt;/em&gt;. However, after looking online, I came to the realization that tungsten rings simply don't come that small. The smallest I found was a 7, but according to the jewelers who sized me, this would not actually fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is, are the jewelers correct? If I'm a size 7 would I need to get a 6 or a 6.5 tungsten ring?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2693" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T03:37:00.557" Title="Tungsten Carbide Ring Sizing" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2017-10-08T03:37:00.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to a site that specializes in Tungsten rings, they corroborate the jeweler's story and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tungstenaffinity.com/Tungsten-Ring-Buying-Guide-a/278.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;provide an explanation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The size you are given is the size you would wear in a traditional fit ring. A traditional fit ring is flat across the inside of the band. Both Tungsten and Ceramic bands have a comfort fit inner band. All Tungsten Affinity rings have the comfort fit feature. Comfort fit bands are domed on the inside with the tightest point being the center of the ring gradually expanding in size towards the edges. *IMPORTANT Comfort fit tungsten rings generally fit 1/2 size larger than traditional bands. We recommend you order a 1/2 size smaller than the size you were given at the jewelry store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, you will probably want to go with a half size smaller than your measured size. Though, I think you need to look a bit more. That same site that I found the explanation on seems to sell rings as small as a size 4. I'm not endorsing them as a company - they merely had the information I needed and, while there, I decided to see what their sizing looked like. They seem to be emphasizing that these rings are appropriate for both genders, not only men (who have been the traditional owners of these rings), so it makes sense that they would offer &quot;extended&quot; sizes as women's fingers &lt;em&gt;on average&lt;/em&gt; are smaller in diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, as Tungsten can not be resized, you should be sure to find a seller with a liberal return policy in case the size you purchase is not good for you. Particularly if you're considering a wider band, you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; need to go back up a half size to accommodate that. You haven't noted your gender so I'm not sure what sort of sizing ring they used. From that same page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The second part to sizing is the band width. Band widths are measured in millimeters (MM) and for tungsten bands generally range from 4mm to 10mm. The width of the band will effect the how a particular size fits. The wider the band the tighter the ring will fit, whereas the more narrow the band the looser the fit. When sized at the jewelery store women are sized for more narrow bands, so our standard women's width is 6mm. Men are sized at a slightly wider 8mm band width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Congratulations and I hope you are able to find a ring that works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T03:37:00.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-08T09:56:12.793" Score="5" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make attractive signs to point to the locations of fire shelters for our community, in a fire-prone area.  I want something that would be visible to rescuers after going through a bush-fire of 1000 degree celsius or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest approach would be to cut the signs out of sheet metal.  But I'm wondering if anyone has ideas for materials that might retain color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2686" LastActivityDate="2017-10-09T21:45:35.273" Title="Materials for flame proof signage" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3379" CreationDate="2017-10-08T17:40:35.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yupousa.com/what-is-yupo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yupo&lt;/a&gt;, various &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draftingsteals.com/catalog-paper--vellum--and-more-drafting-film.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polyester-based drafting films&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.materialconcepts.com/tyvek/tyvek-art/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tyvek&lt;/a&gt; are some of the options I've found so far. Each has unique characteristics and all are (apparently) archival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T17:40:35.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2017-10-08T18:28:05.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since fire coats the things it can't destroy in black opaque soot, it doesn't really matter if the colors underneath survive... they won't be seen until after someone cleans the sign, after the fire is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using the sign's shape to convey its meaning.  That way, even when it is totally blackened and silhouetted against a wall of flames behind it, its meaning will still be clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5j1D.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5j1D.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fire Shelter Sign With Meaning Depicted By Sign-Shape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for material suggestions, I would consider aircrete ( a mixture of concrete with a foaming resin ) which is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlnWazT_9pY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extremely fireproof&lt;/a&gt;.  Also, there are a lot of additives that you can add to concrete (and by extension aircrete). Gypsum or Quartz powders will make the sign reflect flashlight beams. Dyes and colored stones can be added to increase the sign's unsooted visibility and some to those dyes absorb sunlight and glow in the dark.  The sign can either be made relatively attractive or garishly noticeable with very little additional effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2017-10-09T21:45:35.273" LastActivityDate="2017-10-09T21:45:35.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-09T04:29:12.850" Score="2" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you call these kind of painting (attached below)? What is the genre of such art works? I'm absolutely in love with this artistic style, the exaggeratedly tall houses and long trees in some old village, typically depicting a cool season like winter or autumn. It has that bleak yet warm feeling? I don't know how to describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pertaining to this, what are the techniques used to paint such artworks? Oil painting on canvas or water color on drawing paper? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xttAe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xttAe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8JoQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8JoQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2697" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T11:44:59.583" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T11:44:59.583" Title="What kind of artistic style categorises such paintings?" Tags="|painting|style-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2017-10-09T15:58:16.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel is cheap and easily laser- or machine-cut (because it's so common, any machine shop can handle it).  It's about as fireproof as anyone is likely to need (woodburners are often made of it).  Stainless is nice but plenty of grades of steel will only form surface rust for many years in most climates. You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_oxide#Stainless_steel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blacken stainless steel&lt;/a&gt; or contrast stainless with blackened mild steel to get monochrome patterns, but the masking might be interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2017-10-09T15:58:16.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-09T21:02:08.927" Score="6" ViewCount="2013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought two nice skeins while on vacation, and cannot go get any more of the same wool. Now I want to knit a scarf, but I'm afraid it may be a bit too short for my taste, so I want to maximize the length. I want to use a specific pattern and cannot change the number of stitches per row. The length is flexible, it works up to any number of relatively short repeats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the circumstances, I don't know which needle size to use to maximize length. If I were able to do a fixed width no matter how many stitches it takes, large needles would be a better choice, since I would then have higher rows and use less wool per row. But now that I will be doing a fixed number of stitches per row, no matter what width it creates, I am not sure - if I use small needles, I will get more rows out of my fixed length of wool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I predict which scarf will be longer under these conditions (fixed stitch number and fixed amount of wool), or does it depend on the exact size of the needles and yarn thickness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update:&lt;/em&gt; Swatching is not an option here. I cannot afford to use up my wool on swatches, and don't want to open and reknit because the yarn is on the fluffier side and will probably change after being knit once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also please note that I have already made all my decisions about pattern, etc. I am certainly not going to add pieces in another yarn, change the stitches per row, or some other such solution. The only variable I want to change is the needle size, and I want to change it in such a way that the physical length (not the number of rows) is maximized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastEditorUserId="77" LastEditDate="2017-10-10T17:38:40.137" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T03:33:24.060" Title="Which needle size will give me the longer scarf?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3547" CreationDate="2017-10-10T01:56:38.243" Score="4" ViewCount="1251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I hand sew gloves from fabric, I use the familiar straight stitch when sewing in the fourchettes &amp;amp; thumb. However, this usually doesn't last long: after a short while of wear, these stitches loosen and holes form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of stitch can I use to make sure that my gloves last? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2017-10-11T13:27:04.080" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T13:27:04.080" Title="What is the most effective stitch for fabric gloves?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3537" CreationDate="2017-10-10T03:59:44.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for the techniques for this painting, it seems more like oil than watercolor. If you wish to paint this way it appears they use a large square brush and a smaller pointed one. There is not much mixing of colors or blending. They appear to take a single color and place it solidly on the canvas. Except for in the moon and foliage, where they use a large brush in the moon of varying gray shades, and a small one in the trees of darker colors and lighter. And then of course some light shading on the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the style: it appears to be a contemporary landscape modern. Or, if you want, a take on Folk art, or contemporary fantastic realism (though that'd be a stretch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T03:59:44.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3543" CreationDate="2017-10-10T07:10:48.643" Score="6" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a tablet yesterday and had been drawing for almost 2 hours straight, drawing over the outline of already drawn figures in photoshop. I have always wanted to draw so when I saw a sale of a tablet for 35 euro's I went for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, I can create some nice lines but when I get to the end of the line my hand makes a wierd movement. I tried controlling it by focusing more but that didn't help either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do i need to do to make my movements smooth and gain more control of my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2671" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T19:36:59.187" Title="How to improve control of hand whilst drawing on tablet?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3542" CreationDate="2017-10-10T13:00:46.143" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might seem like a cop-out answer, but... practice! Practice is the main way for you to improve your control and line quality. I've been using a drawing tablet for 10 years and I still make mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to drawing lines is to use long, quick strokes rather than trying to hold your hand steady while you trace your outline. Each stroke will likely take several tries, so don't feel bad if you don't get it right away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you need further assistance, software like &lt;a href=&quot;https://lazynezumi.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lazy Nezumi&lt;/a&gt; will stabilize your strokes, giving you much smoother lines in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, as @whrrgarbl pointed out, make sure that your tablet is calibrated properly and that your drivers are up to date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2017-10-10T18:22:33.467" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T18:22:33.467" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3539" CreationDate="2017-10-10T15:00:11.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to figure out the answer to your question is to think about it logically.  Each stitch is slightly longer than the diameter of the needle you use.  A very large needle might require one inch for each stitch, but a smaller diameter needle might only require 1/2 inch per stitch. If you can't change the number of stitches, the only way to make sure you have enough yarn for more rows is to use a smaller needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem here is that using a smaller needle might result in a final fabric that you really don't like.  Depending on what type of stitch and the type of yarn, smaller needles can create very stiff, very thick fabric that you would never want to wear.  This is a situation where working a swatch is really important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option you might think about is to find a coordinating yarn that you can use along with your yarn to make the scarf longer.  Think about working two rows in the yarn you have, then two rows in the new yarn and repeat.  If you don't want obvious stripes, try to find a yarn that doesn't strongly contrast with the yarn you already have.  Try to find something that has similar care instructions.  Depending on the pattern you are using, you can go with something that is a similar weight, or if you go with a much finer yarn you will get stripes of solid fabric interspersed with stripes of lacey fabric.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have lots of options, but in all cases--please plan on knitting a swatch.  There is really no way to make sure you will like your final scarf without testing first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T15:00:11.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3521" CreationDate="2017-10-11T00:07:31.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could sand the surface which would create a Nubuck leather surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is Nubuck:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&quot;Nubuck (pronounced /ˈnjuːbʌk/) is top-grain cattle leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface. It is resistant to wear, and may be white or coloured.&quot;  (Wikipedia)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is Nubuck the same as Suede?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Nubuck is similar to suede, but differs in which side of the leather is sanded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;There is not much visible difference between the two. Suede leather has been sanded on the inner layer of the skin, while Nubuck is sanded on the outer or exterior skin of the animal, since the outside layer of a skin is tougher Nubuck tends to be more durable&quot;  (Wikipedia)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how the leather was originally dyed, you may need to redye it, but if the original dyeing fully penetrated the leather, you may not need to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T00:07:31.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3540" CreationDate="2017-10-11T00:50:45.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are  making leather or cloth gloves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glove making is a traditional art and its artisans are highly skilled.  It sounds like you are fairly experienced in glove making, but here are some tips on stitching and making gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link below shows the &lt;strong&gt;classic traditional method&lt;/strong&gt; of leather glove making, using several stitching styles:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.couturestuff.com/vintage-sewing-books/how-to-make-gloves-by-eunice-close/how-to-make-gloves-section-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.couturestuff.com/vintage-sewing-books/how-to-make-gloves-by-eunice-close/how-to-make-gloves-section-1/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more &lt;strong&gt;&quot;home crafter&quot; glove-making&lt;/strong&gt; tutorial is:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Leather-Gloves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Leather-Gloves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both tutorials show several stitch options, e.g, seams out or seams in, running stitches, overcast stitches, etc.  To a great degree, stitch selection appears to depend as much on desired aesthetics as anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that durability of your stitching is highly dependent on the selection of the size and fiber content of your thread; the closeness of your stitching, and the correct sizing of the pattern, especially the length and width of the fingers and thumbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T00:50:45.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3345" CreationDate="2017-10-11T15:22:07.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know your definition of cheap, but the Silhouette Cameo vinyl cutter allows you to replace the cutting blade with a colored marker so that instead of cutting the vinyl, you end up drawing on it with computer precision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can feed the vinyl sheets which are made for that cutter through an inkjet to get some image on it and then after it dries, coat it in a light layer of clear coat spray paint to keep it from smearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T15:22:07.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3554" CreationDate="2017-10-12T09:10:07.147" Score="4" ViewCount="6974" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to be common knowledge in the leather working community that chrome tanned leather doesn't work for tooling, I.E. carving and debossing, but I've never seen any explanation as to why this is so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What properties does chrome tanned leather have that make it unsuitable for tooling, and how does the process of chrome tanning give it these properties when vegetable tanning does not?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2017-10-12T13:28:59.960" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T17:50:47.380" Title="Why can't you tool chrome-tanned leather?" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3552" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-10-12T13:13:24.060" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-10-12T13:13:24.060" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T13:13:24.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3553" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-10-12T13:13:24.060" Score="0" Body="Weaving metal rings together to create clothing, armor, sculptures, jewelry, functional pieces and more." OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2017-10-16T18:57:58.600" LastActivityDate="2017-10-16T18:57:58.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3549" CreationDate="2017-10-12T17:50:47.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I did some research, and although I never found anything that specifically said &quot;This is why you shouldn't tool chrome-tanned leather,&quot; the information that I did find suggests a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of resources describe the difference between chrome- and vegetable-tanning.  I think this quote (from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goldbarkleather.com/selecting-the-right-leather-for-your-project&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GoldBark Leather site&lt;/a&gt;) summarizes things pretty well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There’s a lot that goes into each of these tanning processes. What’s important to know is that one uses vegetal oils (from tree bark) to tan and another uses chemicals (chromium) to tan it. Vegetal tanned leather, generally referred to as veg tan, takes a longer amount of time to create, is considered higher quality, and therefore costs more. Chrome tanned leather has a quicker turn around time and therefore costs less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The end product of these two processes are drastically different. Veg tan is generally thicker, more firm, and more durable. It’s the kind of leather you see in a nice pair of leather shoes. Chrome tanned is thin, very stretchy, and less durable. It’s the kind of leather that you see in a car that has a leather interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carryology.com/insights/chrome-vs-vegetable-tanned-leather/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carryology site&lt;/a&gt; also has some interesting information about the actual chemical processes and how they differ. It explains that in vegetable tanning, tannin molecules displace the water molecules that are bound into the collagen within the leather. In chrome-tanning, chrome molecules replace the water molecules within the collagen. It goes on to explain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;chrome ions displacing the water and binding with the collagen are much smaller than vegetable tanning molecules. This generally makes chrome tanned leather thinner and softer than vegetable tanned leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I don't know anything about tooling leather, I did some searching about that process, and ran across some good information on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/tooling-and-stamping-leather.752239/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum posting&lt;/a&gt;. From the fourth entry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You simply can't tool, carve, or stamp Latigo or oil softened leather&#xA;  like you tried to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You need to start with Vegetable Tanned Tooling Leather. It's almost&#xA;  white, and almost hard when you buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then wet it damp, but not soaking wet. Then wrap it in a towel and let&#xA;  it set for an hour or so to 'case' it. That allows the moisture to&#xA;  work through the leather fibers and prepare it for tooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once it reaches damp, but not dry enough to turn light color again.&#xA;  You can carve &amp;amp; stamp it to your hearts content. It takes tooling,&#xA;  molding, and shaping around a gun almost like modeling clay!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then once dry and oiled, it will retaing the stamping &amp;amp; shaping&#xA;  forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Avoid belly and leg cuts as it is soft &amp;amp; stretchy and will not retain&#xA;  its shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I read this information, it seems obvious why chrome-tanned leather won't work well.  Chrome-tanning reduces exactly those elements that make a piece of leather appropriate for tooling--thickness and stiffness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1555" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T17:50:47.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3557" CreationDate="2017-10-15T00:53:46.540" Score="7" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a tool that can seal paper similar to a paper wrapper on a  plastic straw. Or how else can a fold the end that will look neat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2713" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2018-01-01T00:31:45.750" LastActivityDate="2018-01-01T00:31:45.750" Title="Tool for sealing paper ends" Tags="|paper|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3555" CreationDate="2017-10-15T01:13:52.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical paper straw wrapper has a crimp to the end, along with perhaps a bit of adhesive. A quick search using The Google shows that the arts and crafts world uses paper crimpers. Those tools are rather coarse pitch and would not generate an attractive crimp on a small width of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are a few DIY references for paper crimping, almost off of which appear to use various gears to create the crimping. One of them uses parts taken from a conventional inkjet printer, specifically for the gears within. I've dismantled a number of such printers and can confirm high quantity small pitch gears. All-in-one printers will have a higher gear count, due to the flexibility of operation of such devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you own or have access to a 3D printer, you can also print a set of gears to your liking. You'll have greater options by so doing, as you can determine gear diameter, tooth pitch and gear thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the simplest form, one could use a set of pliers. Create add-on jaws of any convenient material of sufficient strength, i.e., plastic or wood and carve/cut matching teeth in the jaws. When the pliers are closed, your paper would be formed to match the corrugations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter method is a bit high on the manual creation scale, but also likely to be the lowest cost. 3D printing can be done with a number of online printing services, a local makerspace or sometimes a public library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-10-15T01:13:52.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3555" CreationDate="2017-10-16T18:56:25.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is... do a search for &quot;stapleless staplers.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty sure they work by interleaving little tabs of each sheet or side of the fold through the other sheet/side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2017-11-08T15:05:33.967" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T15:05:33.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3560" CreationDate="2017-10-19T15:17:13.640" Score="3" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found myself on a wonderful Wikipedia ramble at work the other day, and stumbled across a method for extracting essential oils from plant matter called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_distillation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;steam distillation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As there is a lot of bog myrtle (among other things) around at the moment, and I love the smell, I was up for trying this method out. However the only store bought equipment I can find is over £150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now looking at the diagrams included in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_distillation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia link&lt;/a&gt;, it doesn't look there's anywhere near £150 worth of equipment there. So, I am thinking about constructing my own, as it doesn't look too complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this harder than it looks to construct? Has anyone got any previous experience of this that could offer tips? &#xA;Where would be the best place to source the parts for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2726" LastEditorUserId="2726" LastEditDate="2017-10-20T12:24:31.900" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T12:24:31.900" Title="What should I consider when making homemade steam distillation equipment?" Tags="|glass|tool-fabrication|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3559" CreationDate="2017-10-19T16:05:03.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steam distillation is used to convert catnip leaves to concentrated catnip oil. There is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Kitty-Crack%253a--ultra-potent-catnip-extract/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructable&lt;/a&gt; that I've followed in the past to make what they call kitty crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's relatively simple, at least the distillation portion. The leaves are placed in a container on a heat source and water is added. The collection is boiled and the vapor containing water and oil condenses on an inverted lid over the container. Gravity pulls the condensate to the center where it drips into a smaller container on a stand in the middle of the concoction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bysBQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bysBQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;kitty crack distillation image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's using ordinary household materials, including loads of ice! I've forgotten how many times I had to refill the inverted lid due to the heat transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemical aspects of the catnip process will be different from your selected herbs, I'm sure and I can't advise that portion, but I suspect you have a few leads for processing the condensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I processed about a pound of catnip leaves and recovered a couple grams of concentrated kitty crack, which seems tiny, but they were dry leaves. Your herbs will probably have more oil than dry catnip. Running the same batch of leaves about five times means each sequence will be more water, less oil, but ensures maximum recovery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dumped the leaf mush in the yard in view of the security cameras. There was enough catnip remaining in the mush to attract more than a few local felines for a stoner session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T16:05:03.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2668" CreationDate="2017-10-19T20:15:50.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2.5 gal pot and use my 21 gal 125 psi compressor. It works with no problem at all. For a smaller and less pricey solution, I would go with at least an 8 gal 125 psi compressor, as it looks like it can provide the pressure for the pot. From the specs I see one like that would give you 5.5 CFM @ 40 PSI. My 2.5 gal pot requires 4.0 CFM @ 40 psi. You'll probably want to run at 30-35 psi, so you'll be good no matter what. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you live, I can say that the 21 gal is worth the money if you're buying from Harbor Freight, as it is only somewhat more than the 8 gal and that 21 gal will keep the thing from running all the time. That's how I ended up with the big one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2728" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-10-20T11:35:46.147" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T11:35:46.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2668" CreationDate="2017-10-20T22:35:01.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resin under pressure isn't something that I have tried yet, so @Lee-MeadowhawkDesigns (or anyone else) please correct me if I am wrong here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any size compressor chamber can get the pressure pot to the desired air pressure, as long as the compressor it is attached to can provide enough pressure to get the chamber to the required pre-equalized pressure.  I'm imagining a setup that looks like this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6VMzY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6VMzY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pressure Pot Rig&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor(A) pushes air into the chamber(B) which is attached to the pressure-pot(D) with an initially closed valve(C) in between the chamber and the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the valve closed, the compresser brings the pressure in the chamber up to a pressure which is just enough higher than the target pressure, that when the valve opens and equalizes the pressure between the chamber and the pot, the resulting shared pressure is the target pressure (60psi in this case).&#xA;The effect of using a chamber and a valve in this way is that the pressure in the pot instantly reaches the target pressure in the moment that the valve is opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The challenge is then to calculate the higher-than-target pressure which needs to be in the chamber prior to the opening of the valve.  The equation for figuring out that chamber pressure is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((chamber-pressure times chamber-volume) + (pot-pressure times pot-volume)) divided by (chamber-volume plus pot-volume) equals (target-pressure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the pot-pressure will start at approximately 1 atmosphere (14psi) prior to equalization, the chamber pressures needed for each of the chamber volumes which @Lee-MeadowhawkDesigns suggested are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlmYb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlmYb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 75 psi for the 8 gallon chamber and 66 psi for the 21 gallon chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that seem about right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;DANGER WARNING : Sudden pressure changes such as what would happen when the valve opens in the above setup can be very violent.  If your pressure pot is not properly closed and sealed tightly, the incoming air can evacuate your resin through any cracks at damaging speed.  Install enough hose between the valve(C) and the pot(D) that you are nowhere near the pot when the valve opens.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T22:35:01.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3565" CreationDate="2017-10-23T04:04:45.853" Score="3" ViewCount="8217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project that uses rolled aluminum, the kind for repairing chimney flashing, eavestroughs, etc. It's 0.0125&quot; thick and has very sharp edges, especially after making sized cuts from the roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read in a few places that certain grinding/sanding accessories aren't a good idea for aluminum as it can clog the abrasive. I have a basic Dremel 100 which has a single speed of 35,000 rpm. I just got a bunch of accessories in a new kit but don't have access to it or the list of items in it at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me which Dremel accessory by number would work best to remove the sharp edges from the aluminum sheet, and for cutting it as well? If the rpm is too high, what other tools or methods are recommended? I have been using a utility knife to make my cuts so far, easy but tough to be accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T11:34:38.207" Title="How to cut and remove sharp edges on aluminum sheet using a Dremel Rotary Tool or other tool?" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2707" CreationDate="2017-10-23T04:07:55.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of videos showing options for using only your hand, stylus and rotating a sheet of paper, plus some other options using household items like paper clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zR3wbEudD1I&amp;amp;hd=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zR3wbEudD1I&amp;amp;hd=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvpCX89lHvU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvpCX89lHvU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T04:07:55.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3563" CreationDate="2017-10-23T11:34:38.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For material that thin, even a set of heavy duty scissors will work well enough. Harbor Freight sells &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-multipurpose-stainless-steel-scissors-97042.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stainless steel multipurpose scissors&lt;/a&gt; for six bucks US that should do well enough for 0.0125&quot; stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zENAX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zENAX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;HF scissors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sharp edges, especially in aluminum, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/33873548&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;deburring tool&lt;/a&gt; should do well for your purposes. A quality tool will be somewhat expensive, but there's such a large price range in this item that you should be able to find something in your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lEyq0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lEyq0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;deburring tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a tool similar to that in the photo and use it frequently on aluminum and plastic sheets to chamfer the edges. In your case, such thin material will need support. It may be necessary to place the edge on a solid surface such as a countertop or sharp edged table to provide the necessary support. Deburr one edge, flip the piece over and deburr the other side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above photo, it appears that the E200 bit would give the best results. Light pressure, drag the cutter along the edge and you would see a curl of aluminum from the cutter. Too much pressure and you'll create a new sharp edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative solution involves a hand file and the aforementioned support table or countertop. Push the file downward over the material creating the chamfer as you progress along the length. Dremel-type rotary tools also have burr bits that would work, but with a single speed (high speed) tool such as yours, the possibility of removing too much material is quite high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T11:34:38.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-23T13:47:21.940" Score="6" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a stretchy synthetic body suit and want to attach decals from EVA foam and possibly fake leather onto the suit. The decals vary from large pieces of fabric and foam to small iron-on like decals. What would be the best way to do this while still keeping it wearable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am afraid sewing will cause tearing while wearing, but I guess glue might do the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will glueing a non-stretchy piece on stretchy fabric cause tearing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastEditorUserId="1448" LastEditDate="2017-10-26T09:28:55.000" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T15:47:04.303" Title="Best way to attach EVA decals onto a stretchy synthetic fabric?" Tags="|adhesives|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3530" CreationDate="2017-10-26T20:58:09.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's go through this step by step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your plaster outer portion (mold), I recommend at least 8 pieces (2 pieces if it is single-use and you can break it up, in which case make sure to use a soft plaster). And you are going to put a styrofoam of balloon center in it when you go to cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a 2 piece blank (master) of your shape around a solid center sphere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour your plaster in two sections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open it and remove your blank and your solid center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put your styrofoam ball (or balloon) and plaster mold back together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour your cast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does depend on how hot your clay is. If it is hot enough to distort the styrofoam sphere, replace styrofoam with a water or sand filled balloon instead. Then you can pop and drain it afterwards. Don't use an air filled balloon - it will compress, distort and shrink with the weight and heat of clay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the thicker your final shape the more pieces your mold may need, especially if you intend to reuse it. Otherwise it will lock around your shape and you will not get it out without damaging one or the other. 8 pieces is best for a reusable, think of 8 cubes stacked to make one large cube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your blank (also called the master) will need to be get out without damaging the the plaster. This is when styrofoam, sculpting foam, unfired sculpting clay, or any other soft media will work best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-11-08T12:49:47.150" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T12:49:47.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-27T02:40:09.930" Score="3" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large canvas that I want to stretch, however, the image goes all the way to the edge of the canvas. I don't know how I can stretch it without losing a significant part of the painting (several inches on each side). Should I sew more canvas on with a sewing machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DaDFC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photograph of the painting in question&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2745" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T09:00:26.430" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T09:00:26.430" Title="How to stretch a canvas without extra fabric?" Tags="|painting|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-27T08:47:25.777" Score="2" ViewCount="7199" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inflatable toys, chairs and beds, kids castles, pools, stuff like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand and seen people use ordinary polypropylene? trashbag sheets or tablecloths for inflatables where the pieces can be joined by putting a paper between a hot iron and the sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THhGG1s-6sw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THhGG1s-6sw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But from my experience that material is not thick enough or durable enough, it's very easy to get holes on it. Not that commercial kiddie pools or chairs are bulletproof but there's no denying they are more durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested what the real big inflatables are made of.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mpu1a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mpu1a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aslY9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aslY9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlTAF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlTAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One chinese supplier said &quot;PVC Tarpaulin&quot; or &quot;600D Polyester Oxford Fabric&quot; is used for their large inflatable pools but I don't know if it's too much, too fragile and cheap or there are easier sourceable or better alternatives at the same price range.&#xA;By the way tarpaulin pieces can be welded with ordinary heatgun and a roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia page on inflatable castles mentions &quot;PVC or vinyl and nylon&quot; but those are loose terms describing many kinds of materials containing one of the above materials. For example PVC can be used to describe a rigid pvc plastic sheet, flexible pvc foam or pvc tarpaulin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2746" LastEditorUserId="2746" LastEditDate="2017-10-27T08:53:01.563" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T19:37:46.953" Title="What material is used for inflatables?" Tags="|material-selection|fabric|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3575" CreationDate="2017-10-27T21:22:22.507" Score="4" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make flat weave scarves and blankets. It occurred to me that you should be able to flat weave any number of strands with about the same method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a scarf I hope to flat weave 15 strands since I suspect the process would be most extensible when using an odd number of strands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain, or direct me to a tutorial on, how to flat weave large numbers of strands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of flat weaves That are similar to what I'm going for. I'm going to be using plush chunky yarn not Paracord, but the material is irrelevant. It's the same idea as a standard 3 strand weave that all children know. But logic says the process should be able to scale up to number of strands. I'm looking for a method for 15 strands to make a scarf, but if a simple scalable logic can be found I would like to use the same process to make large blankets with 50+ strands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R1yRL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R1yRL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wQHxL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wQHxL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ti3uP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ti3uP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2747" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-10-28T15:45:48.183" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T21:00:25.327" Title="How to flat weave (n) strands" Tags="|weaving|braiding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-10-28T00:41:02.287" Score="9" ViewCount="3508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying an antique fountain pen, but the barrel is stuck to the nib and the section because the ink has dried it shut, and I'm thinking of ways to get it off.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Maybe by using ultra-sound? Maybe by soaking it in water? Or maybe there's just no way?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I don't want to buy it until I'm positive I can get the barrel off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KTp5q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KTp5q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;parts of a fountain pen&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pen has a 14k gold nib and is not plated. The exterior of the barrel is plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2748" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-18T09:27:38.547" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T09:27:38.547" Title="How do I separate the barrel from my fountain pen when it's stuck from dried ink?" Tags="|maintenance|pens|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3573" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2017-10-28T15:28:47.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Braiding is manipulating string so it crosses in a regular pattern. &#xA;Braiding is often also called platting and there are more names possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weaving and bobbin lace are related and could be seen as braiding but are usually not covered by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-11-21T13:46:28.303" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T13:46:28.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3574" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2017-10-28T15:28:47.677" Score="0" Body="Braiding tag is to be used when there is braiding or platting in the question. " OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T12:44:26.143" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T12:44:26.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3570" CreationDate="2017-10-28T15:42:57.390" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having done an internet seach on -flat weave- I came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Twelve-cord-flat-weave-instructions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this instruction site&lt;/a&gt; (registering might be needed.) I found several good pictures and some instruction videos and sites, as will you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is basically weaving with free ends, not limited in size but as free ends do tend to get out of hand mostly just done in small stips.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nothing stops you from adding more sets of strings, getting wider stips0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not start with many, I would start with the number in the instructions you use, then add a few more sets of strings, say halve the number again and when that works, start with double the number.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will notice that the top of the work is not at 90 degrees with the sides, so if you want to do a wider strip or even a blanket, you may need to do several stages of starting, making a sawtooth top.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I even see it as likely your first big work being made up out of several or even many narrow strips, sawn together. Controlling many strings is not as easy as you might think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing the photos you added to your question, I would call that braiding, not 'flat weaving' and I wrote instructions for up to 6 strings flat a while ago and have them on &lt;a href=&quot;http://knopen.ismijnhobby.nl/tables/braid-text_table.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my (non commercial) website.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unlike the instructions on the other site, adding more strings working free-hand is very hard to control, but not hard to work out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On request, a copy of the braid instructions of my site. Copyright Willeke (me, that is.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WfIyW.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WfIyW.gif&quot; alt=&quot;braid instructions 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Arrange your strings like this. See your strings as two pairs and a single, start counting from the left.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvRgO.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QvRgO.gif&quot; alt=&quot;braid instructions 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Take the right string of each pair and let it jump over the string on its left.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJe6B.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJe6B.gif&quot; alt=&quot;braid instructions 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Now count from the right, take the left string of each pair and let it jump over the string on its right.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dnmGy.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dnmGy.gif&quot; alt=&quot;braid instructions 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From here on you just repeat, start counting on the left, right string of each pair to the left.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C68tf.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C68tf.gif&quot; alt=&quot;braid instructions 5&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Next start counting on the right, left string of each pair to the right.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJMvU.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJMvU.gif&quot; alt=&quot;braid instructions 6&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can keep on going this way forever.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7zNV.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7zNV.gif&quot; alt=&quot;braid instructions 7&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXDnP.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXDnP.gif&quot; alt=&quot;braid instructions 8&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can also braid the other way round, but it looks so much the same, you can work it out for yourself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With most braiding you can just add more strings and keep working in the same kind of pattern. In above set of instructions you can use any odd number of strings, keeping braiding them in sets of two, going from the right for one move and from the left for the next, keeping them going over one, under one for the weave. If you have more than 3 strings you can also go over and under more than one, the more strands, the more patterns possible. But that is not beginners work. When you are ready for that, an internet search (-braiding patterns- -japanese braiding- -takadai- or -kumihimo-) will likely give good results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One old method of working with many strings is to use bobbins and work on a pillow or a frame. &#xA;Japanese frames are on internet, some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.braidershand.com/sfexhibit1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photos on this page.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;And a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlJR8525E4I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video with a big piece on a frame&lt;/a&gt; (not beginners work.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYaQEIJ66t8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one more long video&lt;/a&gt; with some useful bits.&#xA;Good seach words are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the instructions on the first site and those on my site is the way the strings cover or not cover each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T21:00:25.327" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T21:00:25.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3571" CreationDate="2017-10-28T18:10:42.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prepare a jewelry cleaning kit...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;moisten separate squares of paper towel in common solvents and put each in a separate  plastic bag.  make one each for clean water, water with dish-soap, rubbing alcohol, acetone (nail polish remover) and maybe... dilute ammonia and dilute bleach (but make sure these last two towels never touch each other or follow directly each other when used).  Label each plastic bag clearly with a black sharpy.  take some dry paper towels as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gold nib is probably your best testing area as you know exactly what it is made of.  gold is extremely non-reactive so exposing it to water, dish soap, alcohol or acetone is completely safe.  ammonia can dull the shine on gold and bleach can oxidize its outer surface turning it black.  either the dull or the black can be buffed away with a dry paper towel, repairing this minor damage.  (once again a safety note about bleach and ammonia.  do not let them touch each other as they give off a poisonous gas when they combine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with your cleaning kit ready, go to the current owner of the pen and ask to run a quick cleaning test.  If the owner doesn't agree, he may know something about the unwanted ink that he doesn't want you to learn.  In which case, you should probably go find another pen.  It the owner does agree,...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rub the dried ink on the nib across a dry piece of paper towel.  If an ink line forms on the towel, this is your base line. A solvent works if it draws a darker line than the dry paper towel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeatedly drag a dried ink spot on the nib across each solvent's paper towel. Between each solvent test, drag the ink spot across the clean water towel to avoid mixing solvents. Once you find a solvent which produces a dark ink colored line, the test is over.  The dried ink can be removed with that solvent, so the pen is safe to purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of the solvents produce a dark line, then the &quot;ink&quot; will require stronger cleansers than can safely be used around the soft gold and plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T18:10:42.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2017-10-28T22:35:43.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can staple it right at the outer edge of the frame instead of wrapping it over and stapling it at the back. You will still lose some of the canvas, though (if the canvas you are using has clean edges, not prone to tearing, it could take as little as 1 cm on each side). You may want to put some glue (PVA) at the edges of the canvas and where the staples are to strengthen it and prevent tearing of the cloth, just in case. For that option you will need an outer frame, understandably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no intention to use an outer frame you can actually stretch it as an ordinary canvas but  wrap it at the back just enough to be able to staple it (basically the same as the above, just wrapped at the back). Thus you will have your edges as part of the painting, instead of having the whole image at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gluing the canvas to a panel (which you can frame as desired) may be another option. I’ve never done that, though and I don’t know what the best glue would be for that purpose (it will also depend on the medium you used to paint with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2690" LastEditorUserId="2690" LastEditDate="2017-10-29T13:05:41.160" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T13:05:41.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3582" CreationDate="2017-10-30T05:57:54.867" Score="9" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a secondhand sewing machine.  The straight stitch, blind stitch, and stretch stitch settings work, but the zig-zag setting doesn't (the needle doesn't move side-to-side).  I plan to use the machine mostly for repairs where hand-sewing would take too long (for example, my first project is a pillowcase that needs a new hem).  Is the lack of a zig-zag stitch likely to be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T13:58:01.490" Title="Will lack of a zig-zag stitch be a problem for me?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2017-10-31T13:58:01.490" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your planned usage of the machine, it likely won't be an issue for you. The common usages of a zigzag stitch are to allow give in a seam for stretchy fabrics (which you can handle with the stretch stitch setting), to create buttonholes (not a case you described doing), and to secure edges against fraying (which you may encounter, but can compensate for with additional straight stitch lines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would also like to propose that your zigzag stitch may not be broken, if the blind stitch is working. If you do not have a manual for your machine due to it being secondhand, search using your manufacturer and model name to find a PDF version of it to consult. You may have a stitch width setting which, if turned all the way down, would give the appearance of the zigzag stitch setting not working as the width would be &quot;0.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T13:58:01.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2707" CreationDate="2017-10-31T18:58:51.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Holding your pencil firmly and keeping your hand position the same, use the bone of your pinky as pivot and turn the page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2757" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T18:58:51.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-01T14:50:40.290" Score="5" ViewCount="1697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to sew a costume based on a character who is wearing what appears to be a leather duster. I'm trying to pinpoint what fabric to use, as leather is expensive and I can't afford to buy enough at a time to make a full jacket. I'm considering other options such as upholstery vinyl, but it doesn't have the same weight and looks visibly thin when it drapes or folds (maybe backing it with interfacing would work....? I haven't worked extensively with interfacing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What alternatives to leather are there? I'm looking for options less than $15/yard, give or take, that closely mimic the texture and weight of real leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1495" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T17:58:07.630" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T23:26:47.257" Title="Fabric alternative for leather" Tags="|sewing|material-selection|fabric|clothing|leather|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3584" CreationDate="2017-11-01T16:24:28.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your local thrift and goodwill stores. You might be able to find a suitable sized duster which only needs a little repair, some leather treatment or a good cleaning to fill the bill.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, you might find a larger sized leather (or leather-like) garment from which you can harvest enough quality leather to make your costume.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not even that, you might find multiple smaller garments, each of which can provide some of the leather(-like) fabric that you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all else fails, the back panel of even a beat up leather coach will usually be in better shape that the rest of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T16:24:28.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3584" CreationDate="2017-11-01T18:38:52.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fauxleatherdirect.com/shop/faux-leather.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fake leather&lt;/a&gt; (AKA 'pleather') is widely available in your chosen price range, and the weight and texture are (as you'd expect) pretty close. Fake leather isn't nearly as strong as the real thing, but for a coat this shouldn't be an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-11-01T18:38:52.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3588" CreationDate="2017-11-02T01:55:05.810" Score="6" ViewCount="3333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a Hanabi set out of laser cut MDF. When you laser MDF it has a burnt cut edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be sanded off, however the tiles are supposed to be indistinguishable from one side, and I'm concerned I'll introduce variation in the piece whilst sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I can just leave it there (it looks pretty nice!). I can also sand it lightly to get rid of loose burnt particles. In the long run will it slowly rub off, or is it fine as is? Also, if I decide to varnish or otherwise finish these tiles, will these edges cause problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74s1Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74s1Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T00:38:31.947" Title="How to deal with the burnt edges of laser cut MDF?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3587" CreationDate="2017-11-02T03:19:26.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After light sanding, reinforce the flat black with a little black paint, then seal the entire block in a clear coat to make it more durable.  Alternatively, replace the black with a coat of burnt umber colored paint to match the interior of the laser cut symbol (kanji?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T03:19:26.263" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3584" CreationDate="2017-11-02T23:54:56.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Waxed cotton has the weight and drape. Here's a wiki link &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waxed_cotton&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waxed_cotton&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another benefit to waxed cotton is its ability to &quot;heal&quot;. Once punctured leather, pleather, and vinyl will keep that hole. Also waxed cotton would be great as your mockup so you can tailor and make adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2017-11-07T12:57:15.070" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T12:57:15.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3598" CreationDate="2017-11-06T02:51:45.937" Score="5" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was at Joann fabric store recently and couldn't figure out the thickness of the fabric or thread I was looking at. The fabric was just wrapped around some cardboard that just had a name and material. None of them had a denier (or anything else that I could identify as a thickness). The spools of thread were the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached a photo of what the spools generally looked like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How am I supposed to find the thickness of the products I'm looking at? It seems like there should be a precise way of doing so, but I don't know what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1Zhi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1Zhi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spool of thread without denier&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2772" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T22:55:11.197" Title="Finding fabric and thread thickness" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2017-11-06T04:49:43.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get the precise thickness of any object, you need a tool called a caliper.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7AxEu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7AxEu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if that will help with the thread since that stuff is usually tightly bound and even plastic wrapped.  But for fabric, it should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T04:49:43.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3584" CreationDate="2017-11-06T18:05:45.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonded_leather&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bonded leather&lt;/a&gt; comes to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bonded leather is made by shredding leather scraps and leather fiber, then mixing it with bonding materials. The mixture is next extruded onto a fiber cloth, or paper backing, and the surface is usually embossed with a leather-like texture or grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonded_leather&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is already used in clothing, accessories, upholstery etc. In its basic form it is particles of real leather glued together. Generally is pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you can make this have a feel and texture similar to real leather it would be a good choice depending on what you are ultimately going for. They would come in a wide variety of colours and texture depending on supplier availability. Keep in mind that thinner bonded leathers can tear easy from sewing at the seems and are usually backed with some cloth like material to help with the hold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T18:05:45.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3571" CreationDate="2017-11-06T23:04:21.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying antique fountain pen, but the barrel is stuck to the nib and section because ink has dried it closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;em&gt;Dried ink is not why it's stuck together.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;With vintage fountain pens, &lt;strong&gt;the section has been glued to the barrel with resin.&lt;/strong&gt;  The best technique is to use a heat gun (or hair dryer) to gently heat the barrel/section overlap area until the resin softens enough for you to separate/unscrew the section from the barrel with your fingers. It doesn't take a lot of heat, so start slow and gradually test for sufficient softness in 10-15 second increments your first time, until you get a feel for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; do the Frank Dubiel &amp;quot;Da Book&amp;quot; thing of using an open flame. He was a labtech and knew how to control heat with a bunsen burner. I, as a once-inexperienced vintage fountain pen collector, can personally attest that you can melt pen barrels over a candle until they're like taffy. The glass-nibbed Japanese celluloid pens (e.g., Spors) can even combust. Please don't ask me how I know that. [facepalm].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nib and feed may be stuck in the section due to dried ink. The nib and feed are always friction fit into the section because airflow is required for the capillary exchange of ink/air so the pen can write. And if regular fountain pen ink was used, it's just water-soluble dye, so should dissipate with water. But. If India ink was used by accident, the pen is more or less ruined, because any solvents that can dissolve the ink are likely to dissolve the plastic of the feed/section as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not soak the entire pen&lt;/strong&gt; because water can contact metal internal parts (such as the J-bar (press bar in your illustration) if it's a sac-filler) and cause rust.  Prolonged soaking of hard rubber causes discoloration (black becomes gray). I only do an overnight soak of the nib, section and feed unit &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; it's off the barrel, and then knock the nib and feed out using a nib block, if I can't just pull them out with my fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nib block (aka knock out block) is a solid object with a hole drilled through it, where the hole is small enough to securely keep the section from entering, but large enough for the nib and feed to fall through. Using a punch and lightly tapping on the rear end of the feed to push it forward from the back end of section will separate a stubborn feed and nib from the section. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pendemonium.com/repairservices.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pendemonium&lt;/a&gt;, as well as other online vintage pen dealers, offer tools like this, or more specialized tools (like a vac wrench for Parker Vacumatic sac replacement) if you can't DIY your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also feel I should state that the most common issue with vintage pen restoration is replacing rubber bits that have fossilized or gone sticky/soft. So, you will probably want to have a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pensacs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Pen Sac Company&lt;/a&gt;, and a source for o-rings and gaskets for your specific model of pen; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vintagepens.com/catill_sacs_seals.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vintagepens.com&lt;/a&gt; is one good source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vintagepens.com/pen_repair_donts.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;David Nishimura's article on Pen Repair Do's and Don'ts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2021-09-18T02:12:48.953" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T02:12:48.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2017-11-07T01:50:17.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a caliper would be a great tool for calculating something like this most people do not have access to one. Coupled with the fact that the level of precision it provides is lost in most crafting endevours. There are some simpler techniques that you can use to get &lt;em&gt;similar&lt;/em&gt; results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For Fabric&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever tried to measure the thickness of paper? Perhaps in school. Its near impossible as most rulers don't match that level of precision. What if you stacked multiple pages together? Putting 10 (or 20 or whatever) sheets together and you can easily measure the total and divide by quantity used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fabric reems this can get harder but you should still be able to fold it over itself several times without cutting it or anything. You could even roll it up and measure the outer layers. Either technique you use get you a decent figure to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For Thread&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to thread thickness I would like to borrow from &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/279/how-can-i-determine-a-yarns-weight&quot;&gt;another answer in this stack&lt;/a&gt;. Wrapping the thread around a ruler enough times to get a nice round number like a mm,cm or inch makes the math easier. Can you fit 10 rounds of thread in a mm? Then your thread is 1/10&lt;sup&gt;th&lt;/sup&gt;s of a mm. Keep wrapping until the math is simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqbZB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqbZB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wrapping&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T01:50:17.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3584" CreationDate="2017-11-07T13:17:31.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a paper/synthetics mix out there which is advertised as &lt;a href=&quot;http://snap-pap.de/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vegan leather&lt;/a&gt; (I'm sorry, I wasn't able to find this in English). You can wash, iron and sew it, as well as paint on it and iron pictures on it. I worked with it and I have to say it is quite hard and sturdy, but I only washed it at 30°C and did not wrinkle it very well. It has a leathery look and comes in different colors, but the product from snappap is a bit expensive. There might be cheaper alternatives from other companies though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might not be the right material for clothing, but for small leather like applications it's suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1070" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T13:17:31.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-07T17:21:00.987" Score="4" ViewCount="6379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm cutting steel wire and inserting one end into a wooden base and the other end will be exposed and used to hang items from. I believe it's around 16 gauge, possibly larger (I can't measure it right now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to me that the exposed end is smoothed, and rounded if possible. I don't want to accidentally scratch the items when I'm attaching them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to avoid buying end-caps (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B06XQMPQMY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;such as these&lt;/a&gt;), and would prefer to spend that money on a reusable tool (or spend no money, and use some type of tool I may already have lying around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a Dremel and possibly a suitable grinding stone on hand, but I'm not sure about setting up a workspace to do it safely, controlling the tool on such a small working area, and whether or not I'd need follow-up tools to properly smooth it (similar to progressively finer sandpaper for wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T19:40:31.193" Title="Smooth ends of steel wire after cutting it?" Tags="|tool-selection|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3596" CreationDate="2017-11-07T18:30:39.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your objective is much easier than you might expect. I frequently use a small belt sander or my Dremel rotary tool to round sharp edges of cylindrical items such as nails or stiff wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than using a grinding stone on your Dremel, consider to use a sanding drum. The grit will be more coarse on the drum and remove metal faster. Unless you require extremely smooth finish, the drum will make for shorter work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the tool selected, you'll want to secure the Dremel to a solid workspace/workbench to provide for best control. I've done the process with a Dremel rotary tool in one hand and the workpiece in the other, with mixed results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once secured and powered up, you can use both hands to position the wire to the drum/stone and brace one hand for graduated movement. You won't want to push the wire into the tool from an inadvertent muscle twitch or a slight balance waver. If you can perform the task while sitting, all the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention &quot;properly smoothing&quot; which means you will likely aim to the grinding stone side of things. The amount of material to be removed is small enough to make this practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've attained the desired shape, your Dremel tool may also have a buffing wheel of sorts. It's likely to be a white fabric looking disk with a mandrel or a center hole for a thread-in mandrel. Using this tool in the same manner as described above, after applying jeweler's rouge, will provide for a polished finish. When performing the final polishing, use caution to avoid creating so much heat as to burn your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spin the wire if possible as you press it against the wheel. The wire will accumulate abrasive powder as well as some of the fabric from the wheel, requiring periodic wiping to better examine the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T18:30:39.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3590" CreationDate="2017-11-07T18:51:04.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Textiles (in this case, thread and fabric), are highly engineered, complex structures around which entirely separate industries are built.  For example, very few fabric manufacturers also make their own thread (which is technically a yarn). There are manufacturing specifications for every stage of textile manufacturer, from fiber to yarn to fabric to dyeing and finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the textiles we buy in fabric stores possess a set of layered specifications.  For the average user, there may be one measurement at point of purchase, e.g., thread size or weight or fabric thickness, but that does not tell the whole story.  Other combinations of these same variables can result in the same final number.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thread size/weight can look pretty complex but it’s not as big of a mystery as it seems at first since fabric stores only carry a few sizes and weights and they are usually nicely labeled, e.g., all-purpose (or dual-duty or general use), quilting and embroidery, buttonhole, topstitching, etc. Granted, these are approximate weight classes, not exact specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a home sewer or crafter, select the fiber content you want, e.g., 100% cotton, 100% Polyester, core-wrapped (polyester wrapped in cotton), rayon, silk, etc.  If you are quilting you will use 100% cotton, if you are sewing polyester knits, wovens or fleece you’ll want to use 100% polyester.  As best you can, match the thread fiber content to the fabric fiber content, or use one of the dual-duty or general use threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of an explanation of thread weights and sizes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/all-about-thread-weight/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/all-about-thread-weight/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fabric weight and thickness also is composed of many variables.  Fiber content, yarn size, fabric construction, etc.  Every fabric has a different combination of these variables, but there are some fairly standard types.  Fabric stores try to make it easy and stock quilting cottons together, fleece together, lining fabric together, etc.  But, again, these will be approximate weight classes, not exact specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of an explanation of fabric weights:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.fabricuk.com/understanding-fabric-weight/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://blog.fabricuk.com/understanding-fabric-weight/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you source your material (thread and fabric) directly from the manufacturer and obtain a spec sheet for each, you will still not be 100% sure of the thread or fabric specs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are totally committed to knowing the manufacturing specs of your thread and fabric, you will need to contact the manufacturer of the thread or fabric, give them the UPC code on the end of the bolt (that’s that piece of cardboard you mentioned) or the thread label.  It will not be possible for the average person to do their own testing, special equipment and expertise is required to do this sort of “fabric forensics.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative (which will be expensive) is to have a certified lab do your spec testing for you, e.g., &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gaston.edu/textile-technology-center/product-testing/physical-testing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gaston.edu/textile-technology-center/product-testing/physical-testing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My practical recommendation is that you identify the exact thread (manufacturer, fiber content, use) and fabric (manufacturer, etc.) you want to use over time and build up an inventory.  In other words, buy multiple spools of the thread, and multiple yards of the fabric off of the same bolt.  At least this way you will know that your products are composed of the same weights and types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your projects, I applaud your interest in quality control.  But, as they say, “Don’t let the perfect be the enemy of the good.”  In this context, that may mean using the fabric stores’ descriptions of the thread categories and fabrics you use, or buy up a consistent inventory, but remember to have fun and enjoy the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user1798" LastEditDate="2017-11-07T20:11:19.787" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T20:11:19.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3601" CreationDate="2017-11-08T02:32:38.837" Score="5" ViewCount="3199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have cotton cargo pants (from Old Navy, I think) where the outside seam has two topstitches and the inside seam only has one. Even the seam between the left/right halves has a topstitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is that possible? What tool or technique was used to get a topstitch on every major seam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can imagine is a sewing machine where the needle sews parallel to a long, thin base, allowing each pant leg to be topstitched after being joined with a stitch when they were inside out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pictures of the stitches for a single leg of my pants. Note how one is double topstitched, and the other is single. The point is that all stitches on the pants are like this (with no breaks), so I don't see how they did it unless they have a special machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PclLY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PclLYm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;double topstitch on the outside seam&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiMLK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiMLKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;single topstitch on the inside seam&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click images to enlarge&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2772" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-11-08T13:36:26.297" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T17:11:28.790" Title="Topstitching the inside AND outside seam of pants" Tags="|sewing|fabric|clothing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3599" CreationDate="2017-11-08T12:42:03.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this was mass-produced clothing, they probably do have a special machine for it! You can see an example in action around 2:45 in this video &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DzEpOp2Jy8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;How It's Made: Jeans&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. They're using a machine like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/singer/261u.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one, the Singer 261u&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Si6nM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Si6nM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Singer 261u&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see how the arm is shaped in a way that would allow you to scrunch up the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try topstitching like this on a typical home sewing machine, but success would depend on the thickness of the fabric and how skinny the legs are... either way, take it slow!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, a common finish on pants is to only topstitch one set of seams. You can easily do this on a typical home sewing machine! For example if you want topstitching on the outside, sew and topstitch the outer seams &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; doing the inside seams. This way you have plenty of room to maneuver. Then you can complete the inside seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to topstitch the inside seams, and then partially topstitch the outside seams, usually just past the pocket - again, easy enough to do on a typical machine. You can see a tutorial for this sort of assembly &lt;a href=&quot;https://closetcasepatterns.com/ginger-sewalong-pt-10-sewing-side-seams-back-pockets/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T12:42:03.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3584" CreationDate="2017-11-08T16:48:50.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this seller's items on eBay - numerous choices of &quot;faux leather for costumes,&quot; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Matte-Pleather-Faux-Leather-Stretch-Polyester-Lycra-Spandex-Fabric-BTY/222687551531?hash=item33d936602b:g:NMMAAOSwXeJYJOBl:sc:USPSPriority!92602!US!-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Matte-Pleather-Faux-Leather-Stretch-Polyester-Lycra-Spandex-Fabric-BTY/222687551531?hash=item33d936602b:g:NMMAAOSwXeJYJOBl:sc:USPSPriority!92602!US!-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fabric in this link looks very supple and drapes well - it comes in black and brown and the price is right, $6.99 a yard, and shipping is only $3.50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A major feature of this (and most) faux leather yardage is that the fabrics are typically 60&quot; wide.  You'll need much less total yardage with this wide width because faux leather typically doesn't have a grain, you can cut your pattern in any orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Real leather is actually quite stiff and doesn't drape nicely - unless it is suede or lambskin which are both super expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you say you are making a costume, I assume it won't be worn everyday (but you never know!), so I wouldn't go to the trouble to try and retrofit a used leather garment or piece things together.  Real leather is difficult to sew, either by hand or by machine, and as it ages it gets quite stiff.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faux leather - as others have indicated - is also an ethical alternative to real leather and you can rest easy knowing that only two or three Polyesters were sacrificed for your costume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:  be sure to practice on a test swatch before you start sewing your actual garment.  That will help you get your technique down and let you get a feel for how the fabric handles.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  Sounds like a cool project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T16:48:50.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3596" CreationDate="2017-11-08T19:40:31.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is actually a tool specifically designed for this job called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Cookson-Burr-Cup-No-411-2.3mm-Box-Of-6-prcode-999-6366?p=gs&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs4WE3Nuv1wIVCSrTCh0dQwaHEAQYBSABEgLng_D_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cup burr&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a concave cutting face which will create a consistent rounded end on wire. The one in the link is toothed tool steel but you can also get bonded abrasive ones if you prefer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Tronex-Round-Nose-Pliers-prcode-997-3023?p=gs&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9cHAq92v1wIVJjPTCh1aQwU-EAQYAiABEgLTYfD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;round nose pliers&lt;/a&gt;, which with a bit of practice you can use to consistently and accurately bend  a loop on the end of the wire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T19:40:31.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2707" CreationDate="2017-11-08T21:09:37.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If size allows, just use a circle stencil/template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kluQ8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kluQ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;circle stencil&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T21:09:37.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2017-11-09T15:47:04.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The comments are all good - and in answer to your question &quot;Will glueing a non-stretchy piece on stretchy fabric cause tearing?&quot; the answer is most likely yes, or at a minimum, it can cause &quot;runs&quot; (torn yarns that pull through the bodysuit fabric).  Also, when the bodysuit fabric stretches, the glued decal might just pop off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your potential decal materials from foam, iron-on, and faux-leather will behave quite differently from each other.  The foam will have some stretch, the iron-on and faux-leather will have no to very insignificant stretch.  You may need different attachment mechanisms for each type of patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your decals are stretchy (e.g., thin foam), they may not have  have the same stretch factor and in the same direction as the fabric of your bodysuit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two ideas:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;One thing that might work is to &lt;strong&gt;adhere the decals with spots of glue or a few tacking stitches (one stitch tied off),&lt;/strong&gt;  sort of like spot welding.  This will still allow some stretch of the suit fabric underneath.  The fewer attachment points the better to allow for base-fabric stretch, but the more attachments points you have will probably look better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to try would be to &lt;strong&gt;loosely attach the outline of the patch with running stitches using clear elastic thread&lt;/strong&gt;.  Use as few stitches as possible to still achieve the look you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Running Stitch&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thespruce.com/working-the-running-stitch-1177571&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thespruce.com/working-the-running-stitch-1177571&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clear Elastic Thread&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michaels.com/clear-elastic-38-x-5-yards/D010864S.html?mkwid=s9ha3UAHp|pcrid|221603638463|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|prd|D010864S&amp;amp;cm_mmc=zadv_PLASearch-_-google-_-sewing-and-fabric-_-sewing-and-fabric-sewing-and-quilting-notions-elastic&amp;amp;utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_term=&amp;amp;utm_campaign=sewing-and-fabric&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_content=s9ha3UAHp|pcrid|221603638463|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|prd|D010864S&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyYLx8uWx1wIVhGx-Ch2yIgrmEAQYBSABEgL64PD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.michaels.com/clear-elastic-38-x-5-yards/D010864S.html?mkwid=s9ha3UAHp|pcrid|221603638463|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|prd|D010864S&amp;amp;cm_mmc=zadv_PLASearch-&lt;em&gt;-google-&lt;/em&gt;-sewing-and-fabric-_-sewing-and-fabric-sewing-and-quilting-notions-elastic&amp;amp;utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_term=&amp;amp;utm_campaign=sewing-and-fabric&amp;amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;amp;utm_content=s9ha3UAHp|pcrid|221603638463|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|prd|D010864S&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyYLx8uWx1wIVhGx-Ch2yIgrmEAQYBSABEgL64PD_BwE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  Let us know what you try and how it works out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T15:47:04.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3539" CreationDate="2017-11-09T17:11:34.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a yarn in a similar weight, measure out a few yards - knit it with the smaller needles you considered (3mm).&#xA;Take that same yarn and measure out the same length - knit it with the larger needles you considered (6mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really think the trade off between &quot;more yarn used in a stitch but taller stitches&quot; on the larger needles and &quot;less yarn used in a stitch but shorter stitches&quot; will be neigh-on impossible to predict without either a swatch or at least physically measuring a stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My prediction is that the larger needles will result in a longer fabric for the same length. This is based on the idea that larger needles = a less dense fabric which means more &quot;air space&quot; incorporated. A smaller needle will result in a denser fabric which means more space filled by yarn and less by air.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;This is a theory, please at least swatch in a different yarn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may also help. I actually just stumbled on it yesterday:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knitdarling.com/blog/needle-material-affects-on-gauge&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.knitdarling.com/blog/needle-material-affects-on-gauge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link contains a summary of an experiment a blogger did on how needle &lt;strong&gt;MATERIAL&lt;/strong&gt; affects gauge. The metal needles made the &lt;em&gt;longest&lt;/em&gt; test piece for her and the resin needles made the &lt;em&gt;shortest&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2552" LastActivityDate="2017-11-09T17:11:34.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3642" CreationDate="2017-11-15T18:54:38.633" Score="10" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently discovered that India ink/China ink dries up in the bottle after many years, leaving an almost clear liquid on top (most likely shellac). This liquid works a wonder as &lt;em&gt;glazing&lt;/em&gt; liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched for glazing liquids for paintings, but all I found are gloss mediums to use with the paint to increase flow and give a glossy finish.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But I'm looking for a simple thing which will allow a subtle to medium glaze after being applied on top of the finished painting, like a polishing liquid. Not varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for precisely? Are there such things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2756" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T22:27:21.123" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T22:27:21.123" Title="What is this liquid called in my India ink?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|material-identification|ink|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3618" CreationDate="2017-11-15T21:15:58.777" Score="8" ViewCount="3402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired several hanks of yarn. They're very pretty and I can't wait to knit them up! Unfortunately I do not own a swift or a ball winder. I've only done this once before and it was a painful process - it took hours and tangled up several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I tried was basically just arrange the loop on a flat surface and keep going around, but the hank kept twisting and strands would get tangled. I also tried using my feet to hold the hank, but that was really awkward and still slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I (quickly) wind a ball or skein from a hank, without special equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T10:58:40.393" Title="How to wind a hank of yarn without a swift?" Tags="|yarn|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3614" CreationDate="2017-11-16T09:20:56.933" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;India ink has only three ingredients: &lt;strong&gt;lampblack&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;water&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;gelatin&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;shellac&lt;/strong&gt; as a binder(in fact, traditional India ink doesn't even contain this), with shellac being much more common. As you've guessed, this means that the clear liquid on top is probably a mixture of &lt;strong&gt;shellac and water&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shellac can be found easily online (if you can't find it in person) either as flakes or a liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T09:20:56.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-16T14:33:42.197" Score="4" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I make the lower part of a jacket behave like a cape? The real thing might not be as dramatic as the image. An exoskeleton might be needed to make the costume behave exactly like the animated version. Heck, even the animated version is coded specifically to be stiff at standstill. However I am only asking for the fabric layout, though an exoskeleton design guide could be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I lay out the bottom part of a jacket to make it spread out at the bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4zl8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4zl8.png&quot; alt=&quot;back view of anime character in long white robe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11IUt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11IUt.png&quot; alt=&quot;front view of anime character in long white robe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what is available right now but I believe it can be improved somehow to make the cape effect more dramatic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36G33.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36G33.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a mannequin wearing the outfit in question&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JR343.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JR343.png&quot; alt=&quot;a man wearing a black robe that&amp;#39;s flaring out at the bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2812" LastEditorUserId="307" LastEditDate="2017-12-21T00:03:21.327" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T00:03:21.327" Title="Layout Foot length Jacket Cape" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3615" CreationDate="2017-11-16T20:58:45.620" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The method I have used all my life involves two people.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;One holds the yarn on the wrists, moving the hands such that they assist in unwinding and keep the yarn organized, the other does the winding of the ball and pulls the yarn from the partners hands, gently as not to disturb the lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used a one person version of this myself, it takes some practice and I think it requires the training of having been person one as well as the other in the two people method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold the yarn on your arms about elbow level, making sure that the winding off side is on the outside and the top, bring your hands together while keeping enough tension on the yarn to keep it in place.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Now start winding, undoing one loop of the yarn at the time at most, to avoid tangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method my grandmother would use: two chairbacks.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Put the yarn around two chair backs where the chairs are back to back, move the chairs away from each other till there is just enough tension to keep the yarn in place. If the chairs glide easily over the floor you may need to put something between them on floor level and if they tip backwards put something heavy on the seats.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or if your chairs and skein sizes allow, turn one or both chairs so the seats face each other.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It will work easiest if you have an eye above the chairs to pull the yarn up from the chairs, but if needed you can work your winding above the backs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some extra twisting or a little untwisting of the yarn is to be expected, (which depends on the lay of the twist in the yarn and the way you unwind) but in twisted yarn it will not be much and might be taken up by how you wind your ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the comments @Not The Face mentioned a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Niddy_noddy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;niddy noddy&lt;/a&gt;. I have never owned or even used one, so I am not sure how easy it is to get a skein onto one, specially if the skein has not been made on it. But I see that there are niddy noddies which can be adjusted in size and those might be useful for bought skeins.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And I am also not sure how easy it is to use one to unwind when alone. But it would keep the skein in place when you unwind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking out videos about making your own &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8I5f2h-blI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;niddy noddy&lt;/a&gt;, I also found videos about making or using your own &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sSCN57dwCM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;skein winder&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNSEXRRxOzQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;swift&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I have not tried any of them, I mostly included them as proof that the information is there on internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2020-11-28T10:58:40.393" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T10:58:40.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3620" CreationDate="2017-11-17T10:53:31.840" Score="7" ViewCount="4076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm early in the process of making a leather doctor's bag (also known as a Gladstone bag), in this kind of shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B5D7e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Foster &amp;amp; Sons Gladstone bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bought a side of ~2mm cowhide for the body, but I know from past experience that it's too flexible to stay in shape while standing on the floor without something to stiffen it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, what materials can I use to stiffen the leather in the straight part of the bag's sides?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card (&lt;a href=&quot;https://my63leather.wordpress.com/2015/08/04/gladstone-bag-no-1/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;as used here&lt;/a&gt;) - this worries me because it will degrade very quickly when wet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paperboard (chipboard in the US, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.threadsmagazine.com/2015/11/18/how-to-make-a-fortuny-gladstone-bag-part-1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;as used here&lt;/a&gt;) - similar issues to card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interfacing - I've never seen this used for leather goods but it's a plausible material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheet plastic - this is lightweight and waterproof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheet metal (probably aluminium) - strong, but probably not flexible enough and heavy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel framing (rather than a full sheet) - this seems to be what hard briefcases use for strength but is almost certainly too stiff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something that will enable the bag to stand upright without sagging, but I'm making a bag not a box, so it needs to retain some flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2020-03-14T13:02:21.260" Title="What materials can be used to stiffen a leather bag?" Tags="|material-selection|leather|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3619" CreationDate="2017-11-18T00:41:17.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing not on your list is steel wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a sort of steel framing I suppose. But it can do a lot while remaining light and flexible. I would think you want something in spring temper, so perhaps piano wire of sufficient gauge. I suppose whenever I've seen these it's been mild steel though, somewhere around .050-.100&quot; diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;U&quot;-shaped members on each side and each end might do the trick. They could be sewn into seams or otherwise concealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, these members resist torsion (twisting) as well as bending. So, for example, if you wanted a bag that didn't flop down but was free to pull apart for access at the top (and pull together at the top to close), you could place a square wire frame at the bottom and a U or square frame on the sides only (not the ends). The frame would tend to make each side &quot;hinge&quot; in and out as one, roughly like the cover of a book, rather than having to pull each end separately to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T00:41:17.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-20T17:48:40.347" Score="2" ViewCount="6166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to glue some vinyl tablecloth material (the type you can buy anywhere in France as it is waterproof and usually left out on garden tables) to a plastic swing bin. Does anyone know which adhesives are best to use for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2621" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2017-11-21T13:46:38.080" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T11:57:06.940" Title="Which adhesives work well when gluing vinyl to plastic?" Tags="|adhesives|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3617" CreationDate="2017-11-21T07:08:52.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are both chemical and physical methods to create the effects you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand your question, you want to achieve two effects: have the &quot;tail&quot; of the cape expand backward from the body of the costume, and have the bottom of the tail spread out so as to create a triangular shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think both effects can be achieved by the same stiffening process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chemical Methods, e.g., glue or starch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following chemical stiffening methods will require you to pre-shape the tail as you want it, then apply the glue or stiffening spray to set the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://aleenes.com/aleenes-stiffen-quik-fabric-stiffening-spray#sthash.tt90SqSJ.dpuf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aileens.com&lt;/a&gt; has directions for using Aileen's Stiffen Quik.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;…Stiffen-Quik Fabric Stiffening Spray comes in a convenient spray bottle for quick and easy application. The spray pump helps minimize messes and prevents overusing the adhesive so you get the most out of your bottle. Stiffen-Quik’s clear-drying formula preserves the shape and color of your project and can be layered for a heavier hold that washes out when you want to clean and reshape your fabrics. It’s perfect for seasonal fabric projects like cheesecloth ghosts and so much more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bobvila.com/slideshow/11-surprising-alternative-uses-for-elmer-s-glue-49289/how-to-stiffen-fabric&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BobVila.com&lt;/a&gt; has directions for making your own stiffener from glue and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you need to stiffen fabric for a household project—crafting a window cornice or a new lampshade, perhaps — try using white glue and water to create an easy and inexpensive fabric stiffener. Mix equal amounts of white glue and water together in a bowl until the solution has the appearance and consistency of milk. Dip the fabric into the bowl, or paint the liquid onto the fabric. Use a form to shape the fabric as desired (or create your own form using chicken wire or heavy-duty aluminum foil). The glue will dry clear and stiff; you can apply more than one coat if the fabric needs additional stiffening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Physical Methods, e.g., iron-on interfacing, crinoline material, tinfoil, or chicken wire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the easiest physical technique would be to use iron-on interfacing available by the yard at any fabric store.  You would iron it to the underside of the pre-shaped (laid out in the shape you want) cape tail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This interfacting only comes in white or black, so you may need to use white and then spray paint to match the costume fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also make a long stiff crinoline &quot;petticoat&quot; and attach it just under the waist section of the costume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase crinoline material at most fabric stores.  “A crinoline is a stiffened or structured petticoat designed to hold out a woman's skirt, popular at various times since the mid-19th century.” (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would use the crinoline as a long bustle, a structure worn under Victorian ladies’ dresses to create (ahem) a sort of large rump, but in your case, you would make the bustle the length of your costume tail.   &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0FmqB62cJc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0FmqB62cJc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to run a wire through the bottom edge of the crinoline, spread out the bottom of the crinoline along the wire, and tack it by the corners to the corners of the tail to create the triangle effect. (Similarly, if all you want is to spread out the bottom of the tail, you can run a wire through the hem of the cape.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use as many layers of crinoline material as you need to get the effect you want, and then loosely attach the top of the crinoline underneath the top of your cape either with a stapler or simple basting stitches.  To see an example of basting stitches:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.the-tailoress.com/even-basting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.the-tailoress.com/even-basting/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to arrange the costume fabric to fold over the long edges of the crinoline/bustle, or you could spray paint the crinoline/bustle to match the costume fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also create a permanent tinfoil or chicken wire underlining (form) for the tail, but these materials won't work if you plan to sit down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your best bet is probably to use one of the glue/spray chemical methods, or the iron-on interfacing.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can layer the solution or spray till you get the stiffness you want, and if you sit down the worst that will happen might be a few wrinkles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the interfacing all you need is an iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, it’s a cool project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2017-12-19T16:11:13.977" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T16:11:13.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3632" CreationDate="2017-11-21T14:09:51.390" Score="7" ViewCount="3507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a way to put down a strip of adhesive on the tab of handmade envelopes. I would like to have the adhesive remain dry on the envelope and only become tacky when it is licked/moistened-- just like on regular envelopes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has historically been done with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gum_arabic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gum arabic&lt;/a&gt;, but I can't find a &quot;recipe&quot; to properly mix the gum arabic for this application. Moreover, gum arabic seems to come in different forms (powder, grains, or liquid) so it's not obvious how to get started with using it as a lickable adhesive. It seems that gum arabic is mostly used as a paint additive these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to make or buy this type of adhesive and have instructions for its proper application? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**** UPDATE ****&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I (mostly) followed the instructions that were kindly provided by @Nothingismagick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After finding food-grade gum arabic and yellow dextrin on Amazon and clove oil at Whole Foods:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOpsQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOpsQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ingedients&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the instructions in the answer. Everything went OK until I tried to dissolve the yellow dextrin. 25g of dextrin and 50ml of water produced a mixture that was hard to dissolve. I got impatient and added a LOT more water to the dextrin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result was a solution that was too thin. It just soaked and stained the paper without producing a lickable layer. I put the jar on a radiator without the lid for a few days and this reduced the volume by half. The solution did get thicker-- like maple syrup. This works much better, but I think I should reduce it even more. Here's the final result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZyrIV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZyrIV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will try again and be more careful/patient when mixing in the yellow dextrin and the water!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T11:06:41.300" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T11:06:41.300" Title="Lickable glue for handmade envelopes (gum arabic)" Tags="|paper|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3617" CreationDate="2017-11-21T14:28:47.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming from your question that you're looking to have the cape flared out around and behind you while you are standing still, as the cape will naturally take that shape when you're in motion. My best recommendations to accomplish that appearance would be to use plastic (&quot;boning&quot; for corsets) or wire (strong but flexible, ie. aluminum armature wire) that can be used to shape the cape. These would be run down the sides where the black trim is located, starting at waist height or higher, as well as across the bottom hem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will not offer these suggestions without the following warnings, however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cape will likely look unnatural both at rest and in motion. You may be able to skillfully shape it to look more natural at rest, but it will still look stiff when you're moving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will likely become annoyed very quickly while wearing it. If you're planning to wear it to a convention, they are generally crowded, with a lot of narrow passages, and a stiff cape like this may interfere with your moving around. You'll also become annoyed trying to pack or store it because of the stiffness. And on top of those issues, you also won't be able to sit down while wearing it (and likely would become unwelcome in panel spaces due to the size anyway).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are wearing it at a convention, you will quickly become other attendee's least favorite person. You will likely have a reduced awareness of where the back of your cape is, and you will hit people's legs, belongings, and props, as well as potentially knocking over displays in vendor areas, and taking up a lot of space in crowded areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are wearing it at a convention, you may be in violation of costume policies for that convention. Many will have rules such as the &quot;Six Inch Rule,&quot; where no part of your costume may protrude more than 6&quot; from your body, and the shaped cape would easily fall outside that limit. You may be asked to remove the piece from your costume or leave certain areas if convention staff determines you to be in violation of rules or a hazard to other attendees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In light of those problems, &lt;strong&gt;I would recommend you do not focus on making a stiff cape.&lt;/strong&gt; Rather, you should evaluate fabrics that will move and drape in the proper manner, to get the right look in motion, and to make the entire costume much simpler to wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also take a brief moment to address the solutions offered by abbie, which won't work as well as expected. Fabric stiffeners are meant for very lightweight fabrics; unless you're making the cape out of chiffon or cheesecloth, you aren't going to get any noticeable stiffening. I have used various stiffeners on thicker fabrics; they do not harden as you would expect, and form &quot;break points&quot; that fold severely and look quite bad. Starch definitely won't work, as it's meant to keep wrinkles out but keep fabric still wearable. In these cases, you're going to end up with a rigid cape that hangs straight down and doesn't move at all when you move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interfacing &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; work, but only if you use the heaviest form (often sold as &quot;craft interfacing&quot;) and line the entire back of the cape with it. I frequently use heavy interfacing in my own costumes, and it is still quite flexible and would not be able to support the weight of the costume at that size. At best, you will likely get a stiff cape hanging rigidly around your legs; at worst, it will partially flare before giving in to your own weight, leaving you looking like you are wearing a bustle, which I assume is not the look you are after. Lighter interfacing will not stiffen the fabric at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crinoline may work, but at the size it would need to be, it will be highly visible, and no more effective than directly wiring or boning the cape itself. Tinfoil will obviously not work, as it's designed to be very pliant, and chicken wire is likely to damage the costume pieces and your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T14:28:47.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3026" CreationDate="2017-11-21T16:04:00.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer description can be interpreted quite simply. &quot;Elasticized leather&quot; is not some special sort of leather - that phrase is just saying that the straps are made of leather which has had elastic attached to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a search for &quot;elasticized leather&quot; you will find this phrase used elsewhere, for example an &quot;elasticized leather waistband&quot; on a jacket, or &quot;elasticized leather panel&quot; on gloves. You can see that this just refers to sections of the article which have had elastic applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the image, there appears to be a zig-zag stitch along the straps. This is how the elastic is held in place here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recreate these straps, you would sandwich a elastic between suitably flexible leather. The elastic should be &lt;em&gt;shorter&lt;/em&gt; than the leather (otherwise it wouldn't have any effect). Sew through the layers with a zig-zag stitch centered on the elastic, stretching the elastic as you go to match the length of the leather. When you're done, the elastic will snap back to size, resulting in a stretchy (&quot;elasticized&quot;) leather strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2017-11-21T16:04:00.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3542" CreationDate="2017-11-24T18:32:48.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy fix: get a Matt screen display protector like for a tablet. The added texture is enough to give your drawing surface a bit of extra &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;tooth&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. I did this on an iPad Pro and it changed the experience to one of utter joy. Really, it helped very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the application of the protective foil in a humid room like the bathroom after taking a long hot shower so you don’t get bubbles, and make sure to really clean the surface beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T18:32:48.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3635" CreationDate="2017-11-24T23:27:02.537" Score="3" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;So we have a competition related to firefighting and one of the tasks is to retrieve a PVC figure known as the &quot;mannequin.&quot; It is composed of PVC pipes for limbs and a PVC plug with end for a head. There is rope that holds the components together. At the end of the limbs, washers hold the knots together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8fdCD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8fdCD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Manny the mannequin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were hoping that we can make a human sized version for someone to wear. Granted that a scaled costume may not look exactly the same, are there any suggestions to go about this? We don't have many resources, but we may be able to buy typical materials if necessary. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2836" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T00:11:17.920" Title="Suggestions to Make PVC-Like Suit" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|costume-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3625" CreationDate="2017-11-24T23:46:30.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;tldr&lt;/strong&gt;; Classical envelope glue is made with gum arabic and yellow dextrin. Both gum arabic and yellow dextrin are dissolved in hot water. To prevent rot, refine with copper ions and a drop of clove oil. Apply to paper.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;100 ml distilled water&#xA;10 g gum arabic (powdered)&#xA;25 g yellow dextrin (or 20 g tapioca starch + 10 g sugar)&#xA;1 drop clove oil&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase gum arabic online or at better art supply stores - take whatever form you can get. If it is in crystal form (semi-irregular rock-salt size) crush it with a mortar and pestle.) Use only distilled water. A copper pot is not absolutely necessary, but copper ions are antimicrobial and antibiotic. Clove oil can be replaced with peppermint oil or left out if you do not plan to store it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crush the gum arabic with a mortar and pestle and then soak overnight in a copper pot with 50 ml of the water. In a glass bowl, sift the dextrin (or starch and sugar) into the remaining 50ml of water and mix until the water is cloudy and no clumps remain. Heat the water and gum arabic mixture, but do not bring to a boil! Add the drop of oil and gently whisk in the dextrin with a stainless steel hand whisk. Continue whisking until the solution gels. Remove from heat and pour into a clean and dry mason jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cooled, brush thinly onto your paper envelope and let dry (or use a blow drier to speed the drying). If it gets too thick, thin with distilled water. Keep cool and in a dark place. Do not freeze, use within 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus&lt;/strong&gt;: To make yellow dextrin, spread 500g of tapioca starch out on a dry and ungreased cookie sheet and put in an oven at 200 °C. Stir it with a metal spatula every 10 minutes until it has all turned a golden yellow colour. Remove from oven and let it cool down, then put in an airtight container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2017-11-25T14:15:51.863" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T14:15:51.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3587" CreationDate="2017-11-25T00:38:31.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gently deburr the cut edges with 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood. Then rub down the entire piece of MDF with some walnut oil. When the oil has been absorbed, apply any wax based wooden floor treatment. When that is dry, buff it with a shoe brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T00:38:31.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3376" CreationDate="2017-11-25T01:31:09.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use food grade silicon for casting as well as for making molds. What you need to look for is chocolate casting silicon. They are pretty expensive and there are plenty of manufacturers, but you need to follow the directions very carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Europe I have had good experience with a product called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kunstpark-shop.de/schokomould-set-lebensmittel-geeignetes-silikon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;schokomold&quot;&gt;schokomold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do cast silicon in a silicon mold, you can use a cooking spray as a release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word of caution though, the silicon is robust but it will break down over time through stretching and (chewing). You can make it more robust by adding more of the binding component, however your working time will also be reduced. Experimentation is called for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T01:31:09.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2017-11-25T02:12:01.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the closest analog you'll find for human sized PVC pipe that wouldn't be PVC pipe is called concrete form tubes, sometimes under the brand name Sonotube. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-8-in-x-48-in-Concrete-Form-Tube-65470075/100321209&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Home Depot version&lt;/a&gt; is called Sakrete form tube. It's going to be lighter than PVC of human size, but that doesn't mean it will be light. As it is constructed of cardboard, it would be easily painted white with matching lettering. If you wanted to hide the joints, fabric could be glued at the knees, elbows, etc, but you're going to have a challenge finding a skinny enough human torso to fit inside the typically-available Sonotube diameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use some sort of cording that runs from the knee joint through the thigh bone up through the torso to a shoulder support to help manage the weight. If you're using a healthy firefighter for the inner-human, it would not be too heavy, I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The torso could be a suitably sized plastic rubbish bin, also painted white. If you plan to encase the human's head as well, a portion of a smaller cylindrical rubbish bin would also work. It's starting to look a bit like a lego character in my alleged mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This photo is the 8&quot; size, although other smaller sizes are also available. Some larger construction businesses may have discards if you have contacts in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhSNp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhSNp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sakrete form tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T02:12:01.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3621" CreationDate="2017-11-25T09:59:50.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At work we work with several different plastics, mostly in sheets, and vinyl is one of them.&#xA;I found that most sticky tapes do stick to vinyl, often when you do not want it.&#xA;They will usually also stick to the backside of the vinyl used for tablecloths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue used for sticky tapes comes in many different strengths and you can get it in different ways.&#xA;For indoor use most tape glues will work, although water is about the only thing that makes the bonding weak. For outdoor use and for very wet bathrooms I would go for a very strong or waterproof tape-glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case I would look for a double sided tape or a 'tape free' sticky tape which can be found in dispensers.&#xA;Craft shops and craft sections of the cheaper shops ('everything €1') often stock several versions as do shops for office supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the options, I would go for 'permanent' rather than 'undo and stick again'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can not find double sided tape, you can use normal sticky tape, folded double or into a tube, with the sticky side out.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The 4 or 5 cm wide versions are good for this but narrower tape will work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A tube made of a spiral works very well but it takes some practis to get it evenly and long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do test the fabric and the bin to see that the tape does take to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T09:59:50.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3621" CreationDate="2017-11-25T11:57:06.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend using plumbing silicon (not acrylic) from a tube, the kind that is used to seal the gap between a sink and porcelain tiles. It will remain flexible and if you spread it evenly it will stick pretty much forever. It is also quite cheap and waterproof - one tube should be enough for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay your vinyl sheet on the bin, mark it and cut it to shape before you glue. Press out long lines on your bin, smear them flat with a tool and place the middle of your sheet on the bin - working outwards. Let cure for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2017-11-25T11:57:06.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2017-11-26T11:18:54.587" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would tile glue (the white stuff) work?  give a good adhesive background and fill the &quot;gaps&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2839" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T11:18:54.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3449" CreationDate="2017-11-26T18:04:25.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the first coat you should dissolve the  crushed shellac flakes in denatured alcohol with a bit more shellac than usual, and stir in an emulsion of premixed marble dust, a touch of linseed oil and fresh egg yolk until you get the right consistency for painting. If it doesn’t dry fast enough for you, consider adding a few drops of saponifying ‘japan drier’.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can’t give you mixture ratios because shellac comes in lots of grades, but as an explanation, the marble dust gives hardness, the linseed oil suspends the marble, the egg yolk binds the shellac with the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2017-11-27T14:06:40.137" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T14:06:40.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3614" CreationDate="2017-11-28T22:45:55.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Mayer, that is water, shellac and borax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although @walrus answered your question perfectly, I would like to address the other issue: where to find a painting medium that isn’t a varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really interested in painting, then I must recommend that you treat yourself to a recent edition of &lt;strong&gt;The Artist’s Handbook&lt;/strong&gt; by Ralph Mayer. You can find used ones on amazon or even at pretty much any used bookstore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you are using acrylic paints, because you would probably have problems mixing the weepage of India ink with oil-based emulsions. Technically speaking you can mix water-based varnishes with acrylic paints, however my favorite glazing medium is for oil-based painting called &lt;strong&gt;stand oil&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Mayer, it is a cooked linseed oil that has the consistency of honey and when mixed with turpentine is paler than pure (cold-pressed) linseed oil. When diluted it is “one of the most useful ingredients of glazing or painting mediums”. I know from experience that he is right. Check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to mix that weepage with oil paint, you can use egg-yolk (or soy lecithin) as an emulsifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2017-11-29T01:21:46.520" LastActivityDate="2017-11-29T01:21:46.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-30T17:44:05.743" Score="7" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of tool should i use to make small cuttings in paper for an art book?  I have been using an exacto knife right now but the result is messy and ragged. The paper is cardstock, double layer thick for a book.  Does any one have any suggestions?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2902" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T15:15:15.627" Title="book arts: how to make cut outs" Tags="|tool-selection|papercutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-11-30T21:22:20.713" Score="4" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 9 months until my wedding, and I adore the laser cut wedding invitations &lt;strong&gt;but&lt;/strong&gt; I do not like the prices at all. I am big into crafts, especially doing things myself when it comes to parties, weddings etc. So, I thought why not just buy a machine. Crazy expensive, can definitely see why they charge so much for the invitations. But I came across the &quot;Cricut Explore Air 2 Machine&quot;, it looks as though it does just about anything and it is affordable and I could use it for many other occasions, but I am unsure if it would do the lace like paper. If anyone has this machine, or knows about it, or knows another way I could go about doing these invitations, please let me know! I attached the picture of the machine, and the invitation I am trying to get close to:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6Yb5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cricut die cutter&quot;&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRDJ8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRDJ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lace style cut paper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2907" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2022-11-05T08:01:42.503" LastActivityDate="2022-11-05T08:01:42.503" Title="Will a die cutter work for intricate 'lace style' cut outs in paper?" Tags="|papercutting|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3643" CreationDate="2017-11-30T22:29:05.377" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are using a typical tool by having an Xacto knife in hand. If your results are poor, please consider that the blade may be dull. New blades are sharp enough to result in very clean cuts, while an even slightly dull blade will pull the material being cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't wish to exhaust your finances by purchasing new blades at every turn, consider to purchase also a sharpening stone and stone oil (often water based) to hone the blades you have. A newly honed blade will slice through paper like a hot knife through butter, but with far less mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some references online suggesting to use sandpaper, but for best results, a fine grain honing stone and oil provides best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can improve your results by making use of a cutting mat specifically designed for this purpose. Look for the terms &quot;self-healing&quot; in the ad copy or on the label. The material and construction allow the knife blade to penetrate slightly into the surface, but close up in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because your reference to art implies freehand shapes, a typical guillotine cutter would not be practical, nor would other shear type cutters or rotary blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the more extreme level, one could make use of a laser cutter. Low power hobby-grade lasers tend to leave burned edges, while the higher power CO2 hobby lasers will provide a much cleaner cut. There is no &quot;freehand&quot; involved in such devices and would require computer generated images, removing much of the art from the craft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I nearly forgot one option if non-freehand images are acceptable. Less expensive, by far, than any laser cutter and very clean cuts can be had by using a hobby cutter. Known by a couple brand names such as Cricut and Cameo, they may provide an option for your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also this most recent post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3645/laser-cut-wedding-invitations&quot;&gt;Laser Cut Wedding Invitations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2017-12-01T15:15:15.627" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T15:15:15.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3645" CreationDate="2017-11-30T22:38:18.750" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Cricut and similar machines such as the Cameo Silhouette use very sharp knife blades mounted in a manner to allow the tip to rotate to follow the direction of movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are nearly perfect for the pictured type of work. You may find it necessary to experiment somewhat to get ideal machine settings for your specific paper type, but that is easily accomplished, generally speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fine detail such as in the photo, you'd likely keep the travel speed on the low side. If it takes you three minutes to successfully cut the card instead of two minutes to gouge great tears in it, the difference in time is minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limitations of such a device are more based on one's ability to locate suitable designs on the internet, or to create one's own designs using the bundled software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More deluxe versions (higher prices) usually mean the software accepts input from a greater variety of image formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical hobby cutter uses a plastic mat with an adhesive covering similar to very powerful Post-It note glue, which eventually wears out. Also, if one uses incorrect settings, the blade tip cuts more deeply into the plastic mat, leaving gouges that will later affect the craft results. The mats are more-or-less expendable, but not inexpensive, typically in the $15 and up range. It's far better to know your settings well, and save a dollar in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adhesive is quite strong, as it has to withstand the knife trying to move the paper off the mat. One should be prepared to use a tool to release the item from the mat, rather than peeling it by hand. Thinner materials are especially prone to ripping. Some of the cutters include such a tool, which resembles a tiny pancake flipper.  A quality palette knife may not have as thin an edge but can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-11-30T22:38:18.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3542" CreationDate="2017-12-02T18:37:07.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[edit: misunderstood initial question, so please disregard answer... unless it’s of use to you. Answered from the point of view of someone who uses a stylus to draw on a tablet not a finger]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try holding the pen (stylus) higher up (away from the ‘nib’) and moving the stylus using your shoulder and elbow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ‘weird’ move is quite possibly down to your wrist. Wrists are fantastically flexible, but sometimes that works against you. For flowing, fluid movements control a pen/stylus/brush from as high up your arm as possible holding the wrist stable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and, as @jackwise says, practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2870" LastEditorUserId="2870" LastEditDate="2017-12-02T19:36:59.187" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T19:36:59.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3650" CreationDate="2017-12-02T19:47:24.557" Score="3" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a table and screwed the panels together via two separate wooden bars and even with one aluminium bar. I did that in the base room. Now the table is in my flat and the panels are moving away from each other though I used large and thick bolts..  why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table from bottom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIzJe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIzJe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Table downside: Bolts and one bar&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table from top&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ysu0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ysu0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Table upside&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2619" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T02:35:29.507" Title="Wooden panels start to shift" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3649" CreationDate="2017-12-02T20:47:04.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is the wood is shrinking as it loses moisture. Because you've used two fastening points across the width of a top board, one or more of those top boards may split as it continues to shrink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accommodating this sort of change in dimension (which continues to happen seasonally, even when the wood has fully &quot;dried&quot;) is one of the classic challenges in constructing furniture from solid wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of literature out there on this topic. Here's the first link returned from Google on &quot;furniture accommodate wood shrinkage&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-163.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-163.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's both shrinkage and expansion that cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T20:47:04.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3652" CreationDate="2017-12-04T02:46:14.630" Score="3" ViewCount="3428" Body="&lt;p&gt;The setup: Trying to make custom fridge magnets that are a large glass bead (with flat bottom), printed paper circle with text or image, then a magnet.&#xA;So...&#xA;Glass&#xA;Adhesive&#xA;Paper (printed side up)&#xA;Adhesive&#xA;Magnet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our attempts so have used super glue (cyanoacrylate) to bind the paper to the the glass. The results have been that the image/text on the paper bleeds or smudges. This surprised us as it was a laser printer which we thought would be pretty fixed. I think the super glue is acting as a solvent to the toner on the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main question is: What would be a better adhesive here to afix the printed side of the paper to the glass without running the print job (laser printer toner)?&#xA;Needs to be fairly permanent but also needs to cure clear and not yellow much over time.&#xA;A different glue/adhesive for the magnet side is acceptable and not the focus of this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2954" LastEditorUserId="2954" LastEditDate="2017-12-04T14:00:25.620" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T18:31:36.290" Title="Proper glue to adhere laser printed paper to glass beads" Tags="|paper|adhesives|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3651" CreationDate="2017-12-04T20:05:04.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a pretty big ‘cabochon’ crafts movement that sounds a lot like what you are talking about: Flattened glass bead + acrylic emulsion glue + laser print + backing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first video I Found on YouTube advised Modge-Podge Dimensional Glue, but I have no experience with the product, and would recommend an acrylic gloss medium, which will dry clear. DO NOT ADD WATER, you will only create wrinkles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the process: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trace out the exact size of your paper backing and cut it out. Do not touch the surface of the print with your fingers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash the glass with rubbing alcohol, let air dry. Do not touch the back where you will apply the glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a drop of the gloss medium to the back of the glass. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spread it out and make sure that there are no bubbles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the paper on the glass with the printed side to the glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press it down firmly and let dry. (30 minutes - 60 minutes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When dry apply a second coat to the back of the paper to seal it (and especially the edges) and let dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now apply third coat and attach magnet. Let dry. If you are feeling adventurous you can add the magnet without waiting for the medium to dry the second time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of extra advice: try not to use too much red in your design, because red dyes and pigment inks fade over time due to sunlight / UV exposure. I have experienced this in laser, some offset and most ink jets - even the 10-color art print versions. The only options you have are museum glass (that will reflect UV) or UV blocking acrylic emulsion. I use &lt;strong&gt;Sennelier&lt;/strong&gt; Gloss lacquer with UV protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2017-12-06T18:31:36.290" LastActivityDate="2017-12-06T18:31:36.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3024" CreationDate="2017-12-07T02:26:38.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The professor for my watercolor class in college said she always does her own lightfastness tests for any new paint before she uses it in any painting she's going to sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it turns out, it's pretty easy to do your own lightfastness tests. Paint a series of broad lines on a sheet of watercolor with undiluted color at one end of the line and gradations down to a light wash at the other end of the line. Let this test page dry completely. Take a scraps of mat board or card stock and cut them into strips. Place the page on a windowsill of a well-lit north or south-facing window and cover half of each line with a card strip, leaving the rest of the line exposed to the sun. Keep the page on the windowsill undisturbed for a few months. Then remove the strips and look at the lines on the page. Judge for yourself what colors are fugitive and what ones are worth using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T02:26:38.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3680" CreationDate="2017-12-08T15:58:15.247" Score="9" ViewCount="1730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear a lot of drawing instructors say to &quot;focus on the fundamentals&quot;, but I am unclear as to what the fundamentals of drawing are. For many of the other arts, the fundamentals are clear, in music, its scales/chords. Every music instructor will teach you about these things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In writing, you have grammar and story structure (such as the heroes journey and the three act structure), every writing instructor will teach you about these things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with drawing, it seems that every art instructor talks about different things as being fundamental. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are the fundamentals of drawing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By drawing, I mean drawing realistically, from life or from imagination&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2995" LastEditorUserId="3039" LastEditDate="2017-12-19T15:01:46.160" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T01:54:13.193" Title="What are the key disciplines of realistic drawing?" Tags="|drawing|sketching|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3659" CreationDate="2017-12-07T19:28:33.143" Score="4" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making hamster toys and equipment.  I have successfully used a soldering iron to make holes in plastic and cardboard.  My question is, can I use it to make holes in small sticks?  (As in small pieces of tree branches.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to know what kind of tree -- probably willow or apple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" OwnerDisplayName="aparente001" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T13:18:37.543" Title="Soldering iron to make holes in sticks?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2017-12-07T19:39:48.333" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic will melt and flow away from the iron leaving a hole.  Cardboard is really just paper with air gaps between the glued layers so there's just a little bit of material to burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wooden stick is going to be solid wood.  It doesn't melt and move out of the way - if anything the burned area of wood actually gets harder (and more brittle) as it turns to charcoal.  You're not going to just burn a hole through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right tool is, of course, a drill.  You may be able to use a sharply pointed knife for a smaller stick, but a drill really is going to be your best bet.  It will also work for the plastic and cardboard, and in my opinion, will be safer than using a burning hot iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="256" OwnerDisplayName="JPhi1618" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T19:39:48.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3657" CreationDate="2017-12-08T20:41:50.523" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Definition of drawing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing is the technique of putting marks on a surface to create an illusion of the thing or things to be represented. Drawing can be done with pencil and paper, digital drawing tablet or even a piece of silver wire on gessoed panel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It sounds pedantic, but one of the fundamentals of drawing is remembering that a&#xA;  drawing is a representation of a thing and not the thing itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Emphasize the details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A well-crafted drawing emphasizes the features of the thing being drawn, those features that define it. This emphasis is made by the juxtaposition of a range of values (shades) and sometimes colors (tints). It can, for example, be accomplished with shading, cross-hatching, stippling and/or variable-width line-work. Indeed, the tool(s) being used will give the drawing specific characteristics that can be aesthetically interpreted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An ink contour drawing of a banana can be executed in several&#xA;  well-placed lines, whereas a shaded pencil drawing of the same subject&#xA;  can literally be composed of thousands of marks of the same intensity layered upon one another to “build up form”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Seeing is forgetting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When learning the skill of drawing, it helps to compare details, like the distance between the eyes of the model’s face as related to the width of the mouth, and how those distances relate to the diagonal distance from the outer corner of the right eye, the left nostril and the point where the upper and lower lips meet in the left hand corner of the mouth. Then a comparison is made between the real face and the drawing of the face, adjustments are made and recompared. Then, the next comparison is made between the lips and the ears, for example and the process continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Even if you are drawing a tattered zombie with a tree stump as a club on a  battlefield surrounded by forest elf cavalry mounted upon giant mutant&#xA;  frogs, things like proportion, perspective and shading are still&#xA;  necessary skills to have mastered before the drawing could be considered realistic. However, if you have no idea how frogs&#xA;  should be saddled, you should get some visual resources (like frog&#xA;  pictures and saddles) and use drawing to figure out how it should look. &lt;strong&gt;Sketching is one way of finding answers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Start generic and generate detail&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many classical life drawing courses there is a warm-up phase, where the model changes the pose every several minutes. There is simply not enough time to do a completely detailed drawing, so these warmups make the artist look at the whole subject to capture the feeling of the pose, the emotion of the body language. This is like sketching, trying to “figure” out the body. Then there are somewhat longer poses, perhaps 5-10 minutes. In which details can be focused upon. And then after a break, there might be one or two longer poses in which “finished” drawings (perhaps including backgrounds etc.) can be made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you take this life drawing example as a model for creating&#xA;  realistic drawings you should: first create a general volume in&#xA;  perspective space for your subjects, then pay attention to details&#xA;  that bring out the specific character and then apply finishing touches&#xA;  like shading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Light and dark&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shadows and highlights are what make a drawing seem realistic. Here, you would do well to study the works of the old masters like da Vinci and Michelangelo. Especially the folds of fabric and the glisten of metal are hard to master but rather important if you want to succeed to make drawings of things that appear realistically drawn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you set up a still life for material studies, be sure to include a&#xA;  light source that you don’t move until each study is finished. Then&#xA;  move the light and make the same material study. The casting of&#xA;  shadows and reflections of edges within shadows are phenomena that you&#xA;  should pay attention to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Colors change with different neighbors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have one color, you are making a monochrome drawing, which can also be interesting and realistic. The thing about color is that it is really quite challenging to learn about palettes, warm colors versus cold colors, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is one place where every teacher will have their own opinion,&#xA;  which is good and should remind you that the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;feeling&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of a&#xA;  drawing can really be defined by the colors you choose. A good place&#xA;  to begin is to choose a highlight color (i.e. the color temperature of&#xA;  the light source), a shadow color (i.e. the basic color of the material minus the highlight color) and a midrange color (the basic material value of what&#xA;  you are depicting) and experiment with shades of each. This is also one of&#xA;  the bridges from drawing to painting, but I’ll ignore that for the&#xA;  time being...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A few tips&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The darkest black is next to the brightest white. (Contrast pushes adjacent values further than their respective absolute values.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use black sparingly, if it all. It is better to have a deeply dark and vibrant color than mere black.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treat materials  that you are depicting uniquely. (Don’t use the same shading technique on both metal and skin, for example.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don’t draw people or objects from photos, use real things and people. You will find that understanding the volumetrics make your drawings more than just mere copies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do draw architecture and landscapes from photos, because this will help your understanding of perspective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a community. (This really helps you generate feedback, see your work in a new light and push yourself to keep working.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn to recognize the point where the drawing is good and have the courage to stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you have good technique you may begin to break the rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*seeing is forgetting the name of the thing one sees&lt;/strong&gt; is a great book about Robert Irwin that I totally recommend. It is not about drawing per sé, but a book I really enjoyed reading when I was in Art School and gives great insight into one of the most formidable artists of our time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2017-12-08T20:47:21.303" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T20:47:21.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2017-12-09T01:40:34.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Supplementary partial answer.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain what Matt said, a change in temperature, there's a law in physics.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_laws#Charles.27s_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia says&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Charles's law&lt;/strong&gt;, or the law of volumes, was found in 1787 by Jacques Charles. It states that, for a given mass of an ideal gas at constant pressure, the volume is directly proportional to its absolute temperature, assuming in a closed system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, as the temperature decreases, the gas molecules in the air inside the balloon get more sluggish, bounce around in a less active way inside the balloon, and push less on the rubber; and this makes the balloon shrink a little bit, resulting in wrinkles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the temperature increases, the molecules in the balloon get more excited, bounce around more in side the balloon, and push &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; on the rubber, which makes the balloon grow a little bit.  Result: the papier maché shell busts open, like a too-small pair of pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T01:40:34.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3649" CreationDate="2017-12-09T02:35:29.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/3650/44&quot;&gt;As scanny states in his answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is a lot of literature out there on this topic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To expand some on that answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is always in a constant state of flux when it comes to moisture. A general rule of thumb for green wood is to &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/636/what-does-stickering-wood-mean&quot;&gt;sticker it for a year per inch of thickness&lt;/a&gt; which helps it maintain is shape. That is a loose rule that can be quickened with other means like kilns and such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working with solid wood (not green) it a good idea to leave it in the environment it is going to live in for at least several months to acclimatize. Doing so will greatly reduce the rate of change. Be prepared to have to have to prepare the wood again because of warping and understand though that it is in a state of constant change that can never truly stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How wood shinks and expands is a science in itself. For a simple introduction look at the following image that shows where the greater change, in general occurs, in lumber per the grain direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iTqss.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rate of change according to plane&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get a basic idea of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/382/128&quot;&gt;types of warping&lt;/a&gt; to expect based on the cut of lumber as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nE5fq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nE5fq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Warping according to cut&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Both images from &lt;a href=&quot;http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;workshopcompanion.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forcing the wood to stay in place with hardware &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; work but could easily exacerbate the shrinking / expansion issues and force it to split. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why you see things like floating breadboard solid wood tabletops. Those might be worth looking at for future projects. You will see plenty of plans that don't do that. Some of them might last forever without issues. However, there are plenty of stories of people that make great projects just to have them fall apart season later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T02:35:29.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3671" CreationDate="2017-12-09T03:01:17.340" Score="5" ViewCount="5699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at instructions for DIY hamster toys and equipment.  It's recommended not to use newspapers for hamster projects because one doesn't want the hamster to injest the ink.  (Hamsters are big chewers of everything within reach).  But all the other papier maché instructions I've seen are based on newspaper strips, dampened with a thin flour paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hamster project instructions recommend using toilet paper strips instead of paper, and some instructions have you painting the strips with just water, not paste.  But some call for the usual thin paste even on the toilet paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common papier maché project for a hamster is to cover a balloon and then cut an opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something special about toilet paper (or kleenex) that makes the layers stick to each other better than strips of paper do?&#xA;Are there any disadvantages, when using toilet paper, to using plain water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T20:26:31.223" Title="Papier maché with toilet paper" Tags="|paper|adhesives|papier-mache|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2017-12-09T03:19:12.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very true, as BSMP says, that using small movements is helpful.  Here are some additional ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your fingers and hands don't have unnecessary tension.  To achieve this, it can be helpful to ensure you are in a warm enough room that your hands aren't cold.  If your left index finger is stretched out straight in order to achieve the tension you need, your hand will not be sufficiently relaxed.  You can slow down the flow of the yarn with your fourth and fifth fingers (left hand); thus, you don't need to wrap like crazy or straighten your left index finger (all of which would slow you down).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Along the same vein as the previous point: aim to keep the flow of the yarn constant through the fingers of the left hand.  And aim to keep the flow of the yarn out of the ball constant.  More will be explained about how to accomplish these things.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't do a lot of wrapping of the yarn around the fingers -- you want to control the tension (flow) of the yarn in other ways, so that little or no time is wasted with re-wrapping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw the yarn from the center of the ball, not the outside.  In other words, don't waste time chasing the ball around the room, untangling a skein, or dusting dirt or hair off your yarn.  Consider storing the yarn ball in an old sock -- especially when you're getting towards the end and the ball isn't holding together as well any more.  The sock can help the loose ball hold together until you've knitted to the very end of the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some yarn is sold in nicely wound balls that lend themselves to neat pulling from the middle, but many yarns are not.  If your yarn is not in an ideal ball, then make one.  This does not take very long once you're used to it, and it is well worth it to wind a nice pullable ball.  The keys to winding a comfortable to pull, stable ball that will sit where you put it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't wind it too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start with a small figure eight and then start wrapping (leaving the tail hanging out so you can pull from the middle).  Progress counter-clockwise.  The top and bottom will not be exactly the same -- you want the bottom to be more flat than the top, so the ball will sit stably on the floor or whatever surface you put it on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternate between a wrapping phase (a couple of full trips around the ball) and a plain cylindrical winding phase (where you just go around the middle of the ball again and again, making the ball fatter).  After  some of the cylindrical winding, gradually ease into the top-to-bottom wrapping again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In your cylindrical winding phases, try to avoid covering the absolute north pole, because otherwise, the yarn you're pulling out will be tight and you'll have to tug.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you're done making the ball, tuck the final yarn end under something to keep the ball neat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are rewinding yarn from a large skein, don't try to get all of it into one ball.  You should be aiming for medium-sized balls, not giant balls.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here is a succinct &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/1r1eYsqeMV0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube video&lt;/a&gt; showing a leftie preparing a center-pull ball of yarn, using an extra tool, a cardboard tube, such as from a roll of toilet paper.  It can be done without the cardboard tube but I think the video helps get my idea across.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Joel wrote that &quot;Continental knitting can be done at a greater rate than English knitting, as the stitches are formed closer to the needle points and the yarn has a shorter travel.&quot;  I started out as a continental knitter and for many years believed that English knitting couldn't achieve the same speed as continental, but then I went to a knitting club and saw someone knitting at least as fast as me, but English.  The key is exactly what Joel said about forming the stitches close to the points of the needle.  When you are knitting English, as you might want to do for example in two-color knitting, you will be able to zip along by working small and close and relaxed -- the same advice as for continental.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Knit in the round whenever possible.  Consider using Elizabeth Zimmerman's &lt;em&gt;machine reinforce and cut straight down the front&lt;/em&gt; when you want to make a cardigan, rather than knitting back and forth.  (See her book &lt;em&gt;Knitting Without Tears&lt;/em&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid set-in sleeves and choose designs that involve raglan or saddle sleeves instead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Design your article from measurements rather than slavishly following a pattern pamphlet that requires you to constantly check the print directions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use knit-in yarn or string markers liberally so that you can eyeball the spacing of your increase or decrease rows (for example when making sleeves).  These short pieces of yarn can easily be removed when you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Initially, stick to the knit stitch while you are building up your speed.  Later, you can bring in the purl stitch again, and fancy patterns.  To stick to the knit stitch, either knit around and around, to achieve stockinette; or knit each row, back and forth, in garter stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find the type of needle that works well for you.  Me, I like teflon and bamboo but you just need to try things out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you're knitting in the round, don't use too short or long a circular needle, as you can lose time bunching things up or stretching things out, as you go around.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use straight, single-pointed needles.  You will progress quicker, be more comfortable, and avoid poking your neighbor on your next airplane flight, if you use a circular knitting needle, even when you are knitting back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When knitting with a set of double-pointed needles, don't work in such a way that the needles are constantly slipping out of the stitches and falling on the floor, because getting the stitches back on the needle will slow you down.  Consider using five needles instead of four, to avoid those looser stitches at the beginning and end of the needle.  If your yarn is very slippery, you'll need sticky needles and you'll need the stitches to hug the needles a bit tighter than normal, to prevent the needles from falling out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Double-check the measurements of your output frequently, and examine the knitted fabric for dropped or defective stitches.  No matter how fast you knit, ripping out will definitely slow you down.  Carry a sketch of the finished measurements with you in your knitting bag, along with a tape measure and small ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the narrowness of the point of the needle to your advantage.  The diameter is smaller there, so if you are working almost at the tip, you'll be able to make smaller movements.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is probably the most important tip of all: train yourself to knit without looking.  My mother told me that my aunt could knit in the dark at the movie theater.  When I heard this, I challenged myself to learn to do that.  Through this process my ergonomicness improved and my speed increased substantially.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastEditorUserId="2994" LastEditDate="2017-12-22T18:20:09.640" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T18:20:09.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3539" CreationDate="2017-12-09T03:33:24.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, larger needles give less bunching up, and therefore bigger dimensions.  But you don't want to go too big because then you'll end up with some strange sort of fishnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to reduce the width of the scarf a bit in order to achieve a longer length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T03:33:24.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3657" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:03:20.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Understand your subject: Depending on your subject and interests this&#xA;may include: &lt;strong&gt;perspective; colour theory; composition; human and&#xA;animal anatomy, etc.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know your materials:  Get familiar with the essence of your materials&#xA;(pencil, paint, paper, coffee, tablet, pixels, vectors, etc.), in&#xA;order to make the most of what they can offer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that your instructors were talking about “the best way to go about drawing your subject according to them”. If so, it would be no surprise that they were talking about different things -  what works for one person may not quite work for another, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2998" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T16:03:20.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:14:06.257" Score="3" ViewCount="4184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to trace the outline of buildings on a printed map onto something transparent, to then put on black paper. Will the ink from white gel pens stick to sheets of acetate? Or will I have to use a different transparent material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1453" LastActivityDate="2021-07-25T14:27:41.600" Title="Can I use gel pens on acetate sheets?" Tags="|ink|pens|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3669" CreationDate="2017-12-09T16:24:59.573" Score="5" ViewCount="2862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a tote bag, using a canvas weight fabric for the outside and a quilting cotton for the lining. &lt;a href=&quot;https://butterick.mccall.com/b5741&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The pattern&lt;/a&gt; calls for &quot;sew-in interfacing&quot; or &quot;hair canvas&quot;, but the fabric store I went to only had fusible in stock. Can I use a suitably thick fusible interfacing instead? Will it make a difference in the final product how the interfacing was attached?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-12-10T03:57:23.483" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T03:57:23.483" Title="Can I substitute fusible interfacing for sew-in interfacing?" Tags="|sewing|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2017-12-10T01:38:13.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I've seen the pattern, I would say that for the handles to stand up by themselves, as shown in the pattern, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gspn.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gspn.gif&quot; alt=&quot;sketch of bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6yQhq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6yQhq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finished bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and for the bag not to flop over, as they are wont to do, hair canvas would be much more effective than normal interfacing (whether sewn in or fusible).  I've seen hair canvas used in tailored jackets (not the modern &quot;deconstructed&quot; kind) to give body to the shoulders, collar and lapels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pellonprojects.com/products/hc110-sew-in-hair-canvas/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pellon&lt;/a&gt; describes it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sew-in Hair Canvas Interfacing is an excellent tailoring product. It is a woven interfacing that is suitable for garment construction where crisp detail or firm control is desired. Use with medium to heavyweight fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was googling hair canvas I came across a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joann.com/fusible-woven-hair-canvas-22in-x-25-yards-natural/1069574.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fusible kind&lt;/a&gt; which, if Pellon is selling it, should work similarly to the sew-in kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shop where you live doesn't sell hair canvas, you could ask them what they can recommend as a substitute, showing them the sketch and photograph of the bag.  Basically, you need something appropriate for creating a crisp, tailored look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend making a full lining even if the pattern doesn't call for that.  It's much nicer to rummage for some small object that's floating in the bottom of the bag if there's a nice, full, smooth lining.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take back what I said about fusing to the lining.  For this kind of bag the lining should be soft and flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I believe fusible interfacing can in principle be sewn in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastEditorUserId="2994" LastEditDate="2017-12-10T01:58:09.767" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T01:58:09.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3663" CreationDate="2017-12-11T12:45:45.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toilet/tissue paper is processed in such a way as to be as absorbent as possible.  So, by soaking it in water the paper fibres expand and when they dry, they shrink back and stick well to each other. Other papers, like inkjet papers, are coated, or otherwise processed, in such a way as to reduce the absorption of ink. In your case this means that if you try to make papier-mâché with such paper and just water the fibres won’t be able to absorb enough water in order to expand and stick well together when dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can use toilet/tissue paper and just water to make papier-mâché but for less absorbent paper you may need some adhesive (e.g. starch from flour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3005" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T12:45:45.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="635" CreationDate="2017-12-13T12:04:22.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt; In the simple case you mention (objects laying on the line of vision) the vertical distance of the station point to the ground line of an object (laying on the ground) is the distance of the viewer to the object measured in units in the object's plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;example.&lt;/strong&gt; A simple illustration would be if we draw a vertical line from the horizon and place the station point at the end of this line, we could place an object on the ground as far away from us as we are tall by bisecting the line. We could place another object away from us 3 times our height by bisecting the distance from the ground line of the first object to the horizon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Objects in other positions&lt;/strong&gt; if we are only interested in the depth of the object we can easily project that line onto our line of vision or the ground line (for &quot;floating&quot; objects) using horizontal and vertical lines. For 2 point perspective our station point is essentially chosen once we choose the two vanishing points and a vision center line. If you draw a circle with a center at the midpoint of the vanishing points and intersect that with the vision center line that is the station point. A consequence of this, is that generally for 2 point perspective drawings you should place your your vanishing points further from each other than you want your drawing to be high, otherwise your perspective implies that what you are drawing is in behind your viewer which is impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Guidelines&lt;/strong&gt; Generally placing the station point first gives you great control over your drawing as it is easier to plan everything out relative to the station point. Practically you would probably want to establish your image plane for sizing, then choose your station point depending either on your preferred angle of view or relative distance to the picture plane. Note that choosing a angle of view larger than 60 degrees, or relative viewing distance smaller than 2 times your height will result in distortion that will look &quot;unnatural&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3009" LastEditorUserId="3009" LastEditDate="2017-12-13T12:19:05.147" LastActivityDate="2017-12-13T12:19:05.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3675" CreationDate="2017-12-13T18:02:11.837" Score="8" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to adapt a pair of pants to add elastic to the waistband. I have a particular &quot;stretchiness&quot; in mind for this project, but don't know how that relates to a given thickness, width, material, or other characteristic of any particular elastic product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any standardized terminology for relative stretchiness that I could use when talking to a sales assistant? Are there better ways to choose what elastic to use for a project than standing in the store and pulling on samples to guess how well they would work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for general advice rather than &quot;here's what's best for your pants&quot; -- because this does come up in multiple projects :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T20:51:23.417" Title="How should I select elastic for a sewing project?" Tags="|sewing|material-selection|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-13T21:20:09.397" Score="3" ViewCount="3833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to start creating and selling glittered canvases.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have brought diamond dust, which I have applied to a canvas, it looks glittery and sparkling, (applied mod podge for the glue and gloss look ) &#xA;but I think the dust looks a bit big grade cut/chunky.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can anyone advise on what they use on canvases and what you do to yours? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3015" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T12:44:38.417" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T02:32:28.730" Title="Glittering canvases" Tags="|canvas|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3673" CreationDate="2017-12-13T21:46:08.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is commonly called the &quot;stretch percentage&quot; or &quot;stretch factor&quot;. The name comes from how much percent of the original width/length the material can stretch. For example, if you can stretch a 4&quot; piece of elastic to 6&quot; long, the stretch percentage would be 50%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a simple visualization from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.patternsforpirates.com/peg-leg-101/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Patterns for Pirates&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBpfW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBpfW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stretch percentage diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, some patterns come with a &quot;stretch gauge&quot;, instead of telling you a stretch percentage. It's usually printed on the back of the envelope so you can easily measure your fabric against it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3Zt4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3Zt4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stretch gauge example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What elastic to use really depends on your particular application! A thicker or wider elastic may be more sturdy but less comfortable, for instance. As a general rule, thicker elastics seem to be less stretchy - but it's a very general rule. If you know the measurements you want for the finished pants, you can come up with the required stretch percentage: &lt;code&gt;(fabric width / fitted width - 1)&lt;/code&gt; and bring that gauge to the store to find which ones are suitably stretchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2017-12-15T14:34:56.723" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T14:34:56.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3154" CreationDate="2017-12-14T20:37:37.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution we used was unexpectedly simple, but not truly satisfactory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We placed short branches with leaves in the freezer and took them out just two hours later. To my surprise, they already started to change color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They didn’t develop the deep reds they would normally have, but had a distinctive reddish hue. I suppose repeated freezing/thawing cycles could have improved the results, but the minor that was involved in project declared them “good enough”. For a conclusive answer, further experiments need to be done next summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T20:37:37.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3674" CreationDate="2017-12-15T11:37:04.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just sprinkle glitter on mine, while the paint (usually oil, but could be acrylic) is still wet. Shake it later so the loose bits fly off. When dry consider using hair spray as a first fix, then you can varnish if you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T11:37:04.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3657" CreationDate="2017-12-15T11:49:18.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fundamentals of drawing begin with being able to draw a few basic shapes - sphere, cube or box, pyramid, cylinder. Once you master these - which is often done by composing still life exercises that include objects with these shapes - then you can draw almost anything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learning to draw those shapes in space, from varying viewpoints and with varying light sources - is a marvellous 'fundamental'!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another, is life-drawing, which is a fantastic practise, for learning to draw. As you draw the figure, you will discover that - the head is a sphere! The chest - a box! The arms are cylinders! The fingers and nose - pyramids! All of which you mastered earlier!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building on those shapes and adding them on top of each other, combining them into more complex shapes, will really teach you to draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2017-12-15T11:49:18.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-18T09:39:07.710" Score="10" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am knitting a gauge swatch in stockinette stitch right now with a garter stitch border to prevent curling and hopefully get a more accurate gauge. I have already measured myself for making the skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now once I get the gauge, I am thinking of multiplying that stitches per inch by a measurement a bit smaller than what I measured myself to be so that I know how many stitches to use for the ribbing. I haven't decided on yarn yet but I want to use a soft acrylic that is worsted weight. I have decided on using size US 8 circular needles. As long as I use the same yarn weight and needle size, gauge doesn't change from brand to brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have restricted myself to using 4x4 ribbing or smaller. So the number of stitches I calculate will restrict that further based on factorization. Anyway, since I have a lot of yarn that I wouldn't use for other projects(mostly variegated is what I wouldn't use) should I knit about an inch of every ribbing that factorization will allow in the round as separate waistbands, bind off, and try them on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how will I know when I have found a good ribbing to be both elastic enough to stretch when I change position and sturdy enough to hold the whole skirt up when I don't know yet how much the rest of the skirt will weigh compared to the ribbing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1121" LastActivityDate="2017-12-20T22:21:17.400" Title="How to tell when I have the right ribbing?" Tags="|knitting|sketching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3691" CreationDate="2017-12-18T18:33:20.770" Score="9" ViewCount="5584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading up on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cyanoacrylate&lt;/a&gt;, commonly sold in the US as &quot;Krazy Glue&quot; or &quot;Super Glue&quot;, because I want to to use it to repair small plastic parts on either toys or appliances, due to its strong hold and quick setting time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have heard that these types of glues will &quot;melt&quot; or otherwise dissolve certain types of plastics. My research on whether or not this is an actual chemical reaction between the compounds has been inconclusive. I do not see anything listed under properties or uses on Wikipedia, nor do I see any specific mentions or warnings on the product page for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.krazyglue.com/faqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Krazy Glue&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Though it works with most, Krazy Glue cannot bond all materials. For best results, please do not use on paper, foam, rear view mirrors, polyethylene, Teflon® or other fluorocarbons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So plastic is no mentioned either way which leads me to the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will CA glues damage plastic&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1 - I understand there are probably many types of chemical compositions for plastic, however I do not have a specific one in mind when asking this question.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="231" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-04T11:38:57.093" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T11:38:57.093" Title="Will cyanoacrylates damage plastic?" Tags="|adhesives|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3701" CreationDate="2017-12-18T19:34:32.560" Score="4" ViewCount="3138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm part of a group of seven people looking to paint along with an episode of Bob Ross, and I'm trying to buy supplies for the group, but we've never painted before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How far would a single 5oz tube of a given color (e.g. Alizarin Crimson) go? Would one of those be enough for seven people to do two paintings each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've selected one of the paintings we will be doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0EUbJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0EUbJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Grandeur of Summer&amp;quot; by Bob Ross&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is &lt;em&gt;Grandeur of Summer&lt;/em&gt; by Bob Ross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2017-12-18T19:55:29.163" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T20:34:15.720" Title="How far does a 5oz oil paint tube go?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3762" CreationDate="2017-12-18T21:00:48.953" Score="8" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winsornewton.com/na/shop/oil-colour/winton-oil-colour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;oil colours&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; from Winsor &amp;amp; Newton and was just hoping someone more experienced could confirm that &quot;Oil colours&quot; = &quot;Oil paints,&quot; and that I'm not inadvertently buying pigments that I need to mix with something to get the actual paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastEditorUserId="3042" LastEditDate="2017-12-23T00:40:09.227" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T20:22:43.297" Title="Are &quot;oil colours&quot; the same as &quot;oil paints,&quot; or am I buying pigments by accident?" Tags="|painting|terminology|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3682" CreationDate="2017-12-19T06:11:51.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking all the right questions, and thinking about the right variables, so that's a great start.  There a few other things you might consider as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rib knits stretch more than stockinette, but stockinette will stretch.  Acrylic and wool yarns are usually far stretchier than cotton or linen.  A 4x4 rib is stretchier than a 2X2 (for example). In addition to these stretch variables, as you have pointed out, the degree of heaviness of your base skirt will also contribute to the final garment stretch.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even testing each independent variable (e.g., the waistband rib) one at a time, in isolation of the system, could result in a misleading result.  For your example of knitting a section of waistband with various ribbing, at a minimum you would need to knit each test band the actual length you plan to use since the stretch of the band will change with increased length.  But you will still not really know how the band will hold up under the weight of the base skirt. The rib band might need to be knitted on smaller needles to provide more stability and less stretch.  You don’t say what skirt length you plan to make, but obviously, the shorter the skirt the less pull it will have on the ribbed waistband.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think the successful execution of your design depends your body type, e.g., if you are curvy with a small waist you will need to cast off stitches at the waist when you start your rib if you work from hem to waist, or cast on if you work from rib waist to hem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea that might help with your questions specific to the waistband would be to hem the top edge and run a drawstring or wide elastic through it so you can tighten it if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without making a prototype skirt and adjusting it to meet your needs, similar to making a muslin in sewing, there's no surefire way to calculate the simultaneous effects of all your variables on the final garment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest looking at knitted skirt patterns to get a general idea of what your initial yarn, needle, rib, etc. variables should be and adjust from there.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/235805730472519799/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/235805730472519799/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your project sounds like a great idea, good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastEditorDisplayName="user1798" LastEditDate="2017-12-19T15:24:47.740" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T15:24:47.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-19T01:05:29.847" Score="4" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to fully paint SD cards in mass quantities, but my problem is trying not to paint the pins in the process. What would be the most effective way to cover them or go about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what kind of painting process would be the most effective?&lt;br/&gt;e.g.: spray painting, silk-screening, etc.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptIZh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptIZh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3119" OwnerDisplayName="John" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T23:03:33.663" Title="How to avoid painting SD card pins" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3688" CreationDate="2017-12-19T01:49:39.243" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;More details regarding your objective would be useful, but one can expect certain commonalities irrespective of your final goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, unless you are inclined to excessive labor, expect to not-paint the area of plastic between the contact areas. More on this later in the dissertation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way of masking out the contacts is just that, masking tape. Consider to use some of the new-tech tape which uses a liquid-absorbing powder to increase the tenacity of the tape edge to repel paint. One brand name is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frogtape.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frog-Tape™&lt;/a&gt; although I expect others are available. You could align the cards in a simply-made jig and run a strip of tape over many at one time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above suggestion is valid if your intention is to paint the cards in a single color or a multi-color scheme of reasonable simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many painting tasks, masking is key. If your project is simple shapes of various colors, creating a mask for each color, with spacing to match a jig holding the cards, you would be able to apply the paint in sequence, alternating masks and spraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following: your image is the common yin-yang symbol, two colors and a neutral background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wdiJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wdiJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;yin yang symbol&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mask the contacts as noted above, which would also secure them in the jig, and apply the neutral background color. It is critical that this base color be allowed to dry thoroughly, to prevent peel-up from the following steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your masks would have to be created from an adhesive material for best results. Vinyl sign material comes to mind, although you may get away with wide masking tape cut on a hobby cutter. Using transfer tape, the mask is applied to the jig containing the cards, leaving opening for the desired color. The masking is removed when the paint has become tacky, but before fully cured, to prevent peeling at the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat with the second mask and the third color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tricky part for multi-color designs is registration, also known as alignment. You would want the jig to contain clearly visible points to match up with mask one and mask two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silk screening uses similar concepts for multi-color, although the contact masking would be simpler. The screen has openings for the ink to be applied and is solid in locations of no ink. Photo-sensitive screens allow for accurate and easily created masks for simple artwork such as the symbol. The construction of the silk screening platform usually includes registration/alignment if done properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The area between the contacts could be painted using the silk screen method and even possibly using the vinyl cutting mask method, but requires very careful attention to registration as well as mask creation. Considering how small those areas are makes it a better idea to leave them in the original state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The precision you engage in creating the jig will make the rest of the task all the easier. One could consider a 3D printed jig or perhaps laser cut acrylic. Laser cut plywood may be practical, but the organic nature of wood makes it susceptible to humidity and temperature changes. If you have access to a CNC resource, aluminum or acrylic becomes practical for making accurate jigs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" OwnerDisplayName="fred_dot_u" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T01:49:39.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3700" CreationDate="2017-12-19T13:17:37.940" Score="6" ViewCount="8854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on some nail polish watercolor coffee mugs. I have completed the color application and want to make them dishwasher safe using dishwasher safe mod podge.&#xA;I don’t have any experience with mod podge at all and was wondering if anyone has tips or tricks that you wish someone told you before you started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michaels.com/mod-podge-dishwasher-safe-gloss/M10317351.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.michaels.com/mod-podge-dishwasher-safe-gloss/M10317351.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1190" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T19:33:18.697" Title="Tips and Tricks for Sealing Ceramic Coffee Mugs" Tags="|ceramics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3683" CreationDate="2017-12-19T16:48:19.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not likely, but first let's talk about &quot;plastic&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two main kinds used on toys are PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene). PVC is a bit flexible, and ABS is the rigid stuff (used to make harder shells, smaller children's toys, and stuff like LEGO blocks). You can generally tell something is PVC if it has a little bit of a give, or you can dig your fingernail into it slightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, most people I know consider super glue a safe fix for action figures and other toys. Aside from repairing them, some will apply a small amount to ball/socket joints to stiffen them up, or on top of custom paint jobs to act as a sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Permabond, an adhesive company, even suggests that cyanoacrylates are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permabond.com/materials_bonded/how-to-bond-pvc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ideal for PVC&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permabond.com/materials_bonded/how-to-bond-abs/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;also for ABS&lt;/a&gt;. However, ABS tends to me smoother and breaks more cleanly, so it may not be effectively bonded by super glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note about cyanoacrylates is that they have pretty low shear strength, which means if you're applying them to a part that's got movement, especially one that can be twisted, then the repaired piece is likely to just twist off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to use two-part epoxies, such as Devcon. They'll bond PVC and ABS both. However, they take a bit longer to dry and cure and they also have terrible fumes while they're being mixed, so you need proper ventilation. This bonds become much more durable to all types of pressure and use. They have not yet, in my experience, damaged a plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative for ABS plastic is to use a plastic weld solvent, such as bondene or plastruct brand. These solvents actually bond the separate parts together using a chemical reaction that fuses a thin layer of each part together. So, it's making the two broken pieces one fused piece, instead of two pieces with an adhesive between them. This is the same type of substance that toy &lt;em&gt;manufacturers&lt;/em&gt; use when they are sealing toy parts together (such as the front and back of a figure's chest, or either half of a toy gun). This bond is fairly strong, and generally needs high pressure and some heat to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T16:48:19.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3667" CreationDate="2017-12-19T17:06:52.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acetate is waterproof, and gel pens work by having pigment suspended in a water-based gel. So, intuition is that &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; the pen applies at all (it may not even grab to the surface), then it would be heavily prone to smearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative could be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vellum#Paper_vellum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vellum&lt;/a&gt;, which is often used just as you described: to trace something on a nice surface that can be used for something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T17:06:52.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3513" CreationDate="2017-12-19T18:24:19.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best messageboard I've found for asking about help with crease pattern is probably &lt;a href=&quot;http://snkhan.co.uk/forum/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Origami Forum&lt;/a&gt;.  They have &lt;a href=&quot;http://snkhan.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&amp;amp;t=13738&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a thread on the Alduin CP&lt;/a&gt;.  In it, ShuaiJanaiDesu kicks off things by hazarding the theory that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the top edge ref points are: 1:√2:√2:2:2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or the main diagonal is: 1:√2:1:√2:2:1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(which ever is easier to use/fold from, I guess)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several posters chime in on how you can get those reference points to start with or how they might be slightly off.  But many are also having difficulties with it, so you're not alone.  Kamiya's CPs are far from complete, of course, and you still won't have the details on how to finish the model from the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in that thread, Tim Chang posted a link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xh_gPtlQHlM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;his youtube video &lt;/a&gt; giving a walkthrough of how he did the wing and head shaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T18:24:19.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3682" CreationDate="2017-12-20T12:19:13.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how will I know when I have found a good ribbing to be&#xA;  both elastic enough to stretch when I change position &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The waistband ribbing and the elastic both have to stretch enough to go over your hips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and sturdy enough to hold the whole skirt up &#xA;  when I don't know yet how much the rest of the skirt will weigh &#xA;  compared to the ribbing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The waistband Ribbing isn't what holds the skirt up. &#xA;The elastic In the casing hugs the waist and holds up the skirt. Use wide non-roll elastic to hold up a heavy skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elastic should be a bit shorter than the waist measurement, so it is  both snug and comfy around the waist. Test it in the fabric store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The waistband ribbing measurement should be long enough that it can stretch around the hips, and short enough that the ribbing doesn’t add an unflattering amount of bulk to the waist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastEditorUserId="2060" LastEditDate="2017-12-20T22:21:17.400" LastActivityDate="2017-12-20T22:21:17.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3698" CreationDate="2017-12-20T13:16:22.477" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started drawing and would like to post my work on a website, without having to make my own blog. I'm looking for a kind of &quot;social network for images&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the most popular images social network, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instagram&lt;/a&gt;, but it is absolutely not what I'm looking for. Maybe it is good for photos of your food, but for drawings I think it is quite awful (upload only from phone, squared images...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mainly think about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tumblr.com/explore/photos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tumblr&lt;/a&gt;, but it is not as famous as Instagram, and not really handy too... &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Imgur&lt;/a&gt; is a different concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the main/popular websites or community for sharing art? &#xA;I want: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy upload&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy sharing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy commenting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(possibly uploading directly from the phone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank for your time and advices,&#xA;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3021" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T14:05:04.530" Title="Where can I show my work online?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-12-21T15:33:55.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3686" CreationDate="2017-12-21T13:30:33.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, adding oil to ground pigment will turn it into oil paint; adding acrylic to ground pigment will turn it into acrylic paint; adding water to pigment will turn it into water colours...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this should be oil paint if it contains oil, and not just pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Where did you find this? Isn't there a description to the product? An image? If &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winsornewton.com/row/shop/oil-colour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is what you've been looking at, yes this is oil paint.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3060" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T13:30:33.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3695" CreationDate="2017-12-21T14:05:04.530" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try www.deviantart.com . I never used it but it seems like it's a website for artists to easily show their work. I think it is even possible to sell prints of your art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1070" LastActivityDate="2017-12-21T14:05:04.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3688" CreationDate="2017-12-21T16:34:37.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the pins are recessed I'd first try pressing that side of the card against a thin pad (even just a thick cloth on a board).  Two coats would be a good idea.  That will get you a solid colour, and I assume that you need solid colour if you're talking about mass quantities -- if you can paint a design you can paint precisely enough to avoid the contacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This at least would provide a test method; it's quite likely the the paint will scratch off in some places in many devices after only a few uses (which might or might not matter depending on your goals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For repeated designs, stickering may be better, or stickering over a painted card.  For larger quantities &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.promokeychain.com/flash-card-p-174.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;getting it done for you&lt;/a&gt; (first hit on my search, even Kingston will do it from 500 units) would be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-12-28T15:40:42.263" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T15:40:42.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3690" CreationDate="2017-12-21T18:59:11.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would wrap a line of masking tape around the edge of the cup on the outside at the top, because this modgepodge gloss appears not to be food safe. I would also wrap at the bottom for aesthetic reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it is water soluble, do not dilute it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the mug to be painted upside down on stick it on a plastic cup. Use the biggest, softest synthetic brush you can find and quickly brush downward in an even stroke from tape to tape. With the next stroke, overlap by 1/16” or 2mm and work your way around. Depending on the viscosity you may need more or less paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWiIK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWiIK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drawing of the suggestion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would dip the entire outside of the mug in polyester resin. That water-based stuff probably won’t hold up to abrasion and if it isn’t food safe I wouldn’t want to accidentally drink a chip. &lt;a href=&quot;https://theepoxyexperts.com/shop/adhesives/max-clr-24-oz-epoxy-resin-food-safe-fda-compliant-clear-high-impact-coating/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Something like this would work&lt;/a&gt;. Use an S-hook to hold the handle, dip it in the mixed resin, hang above the dipping container for five minutes and then place on a coaster to cure. Use in a well ventilated area and don’t get it on your skin or in your eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2017-12-27T15:10:04.230" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T15:10:04.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3685" CreationDate="2017-12-22T05:52:39.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of paint you will use depends both on the size of the painting and your personal style and technique.  The amount of paint you use may be more or less than another person in your group.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have asked this specific question, e.g. &quot;Amount of paint used in a typical Bob Ross painting&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/HappyTrees/comments/6d29w8/amount_of_paint_used_in_a_typical_bob_ross/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/HappyTrees/comments/6d29w8/amount_of_paint_used_in_a_typical_bob_ross/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see by the range of answers, again, there is no mathematical way to calculate how many tubes/grams of paint you will need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have painted for a while, you will know approximately how much paint you typically use.  In the mean time, I suggest visiting a local art supply store if there is one in your area, and ask for their advice.  You may be able to buy more paint than you think you will use and return unopened tubes. But we sure to ask about returns before you purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a great group activity and a lot of fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T05:52:39.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3704" CreationDate="2017-12-22T11:00:49.523" Score="9" ViewCount="8026" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way of transporting a charcoal drawing over on a long ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawing is fixed with a workable fixative but im still concerned about smudging. I was thinking about rolling the piece with a protecting layer of paper on top but I'm not sure if the charcoal could 'break' off in the process of rolling.Or would it be better to transport it flat (but how exactly?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2017-12-22T17:32:58.683" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T18:57:02.160" Title="How can I safely transport a charcoal drawing?" Tags="|drawing|preservation|charcoal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-22T15:11:46.963" Score="6" ViewCount="3097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently researched alternatives to glass for permanent framing/protection, and I found that glassine paper is supposedly a good cheap alternative. I ordered it on Amazon, but I was very unhappy with it. It was barely transparent and the glassine obstructed the viewer from seeing my art and appreciating the colors and the beauty, it was like looking through a smokey window. So now I'm looking for any other suggestions for paper that would protect my art and have a generous amount of transparency.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2488" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T19:21:35.703" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T19:21:35.703" Title="Cheap alternative to glass?" Tags="|glass|framing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3702" CreationDate="2017-12-22T17:09:26.900" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;PROFESSIONAL VERSION&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put on a pair of clean white cotton gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mount the drawing on an acid-free sheet of museum board with archival mounting tape. Prepare a beveled matt with an interior size 1-2 cm smaller than your paper. Attach the matt to the museum board with one strip of archival tape along the top edge. Place a piece of 5 mm thick plexiglas on the matt and tape to the museum board along the sides. Place the entire object in a thick plastic bag, fold down the opening several times while pressing out the air and tape shut with plastic packaging tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then place the packaged drawing into a wooden shipping box with custom cut styrofoam spacers so that it cannot move. Put a sachet of silica gel under the museum board in a small space you have carved out of the foam. Put a foam sheet on top of the matt and close the box with screws. Using indelible marker (or hand-cut stencil for the authenticity) write &lt;strong&gt;FRAGILE GLASSWARE. HANDLE WITH CARE.&lt;/strong&gt; on every side of the box. Label with the contents, attach shipping label and place in the loading bay for the (insured) delivery company to pick up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;DIY CHEAP VERSION&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an emergency I would use waxed paper like the kind used for baking to cover the sheet of paper. Fold it over the top, tape with removable masking tape to the back of the drawing. Use multiple rows that overlap and then sandwich the drawing between two sheets of cardboard that are 1.5 times bigger than the drawing. Put the whole thing in a garbage bag that you then wrap airtight and tape closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2017-12-22T18:48:36.747" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T18:48:36.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3707" CreationDate="2017-12-23T09:28:44.077" Score="5" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received an abundance of white roses that I really don't have any use for.  I am looking to dye them black for a sporting event to match team colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize with most projects that if you start with a white color, you usually need some type of primer if you want to get a good dark color.  Is this the same with rose petals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious how to dye a white rose or white rose petals to black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it possible to dye white roses a deep black?  Would I need a primer for this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T17:21:28.013" Title="How can I properly dye rose petals?" Tags="|dye|flowers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3709" CreationDate="2017-12-23T15:11:29.800" Score="6" ViewCount="4781" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 5-year-old's gotten really into drawing all kinds of things with sharpies, but the smell is pretty awful (and mildly unhealthy).  What marker has the look-and-feel without the fumes.  The super-permanence of sharpies is not necessary.  In fact, not bleeding through typing paper would be a plus!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3067" LastActivityDate="2022-06-15T15:16:14.523" Title="What markers are like sharpies without the fumes?" Tags="|drawing|paper|markers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3705" CreationDate="2017-12-24T13:04:32.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.floristchronicles.com/2011/create-black-flowers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;discovered&lt;/a&gt; that by simply cutting the stems and adding black dye to the vase and simply placing the roses in the vase will color them black.  I tried this and it works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can dye the flowers by placing the stems in dye-enhanced water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="286" LastActivityDate="2017-12-24T13:04:32.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3706" CreationDate="2017-12-24T14:48:48.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was looking for such markers in my area I would go to the shops where they sell toys and craft items for kids, specially the kind of shop where they sell the cheaper items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not always available but often one or the other shop has markers with wider barrels and chunky tips.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Look in the toy section rather than in the 'grown up's' art section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go for toy or kiddies supplies as you get many more markers for the same money and I do not think a 5 year old child minds if it is a lower grade, as long as he gets replacements while he still likes the activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2017-12-25T11:01:38.840" LastActivityDate="2017-12-25T11:01:38.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3706" CreationDate="2017-12-24T17:48:23.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get acrylic based markers of high quality, which are nontoxic. My favorite ones are &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001VB4T86&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Posca&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally believe that children should always have access to the highest quality art supplies, because cheap tools invariably lead to bad experiences. Bad experience turns people (and children are people) off from things that could otherwise be enjoyable and exciting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2017-12-24T17:48:23.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3703" CreationDate="2017-12-24T20:31:18.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soft pastel is literally the most difficult &quot;painterly&quot; media to protect. Generally speaking, the appropriate way to protect pastels is with a so-called shadow box, where the paper or board is floated above the backing plate of the frame and still has air-space to the glass. (See my drawing below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9TAS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9TAS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shadow box frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty material-intensive method, but it serves to isolate the pastel from touching anything, including the glass. You have probably noticed that applying fixative to soft-pastels will change them, dulling the whites etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is, in my opinion, no cheap way to protect pastel drawings, but I do have two suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find cardboard boxes with clear plastic inserts, like gift boxes where you can see inside them. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take a high resolution photo and print them at the local drugstore or at an online service. Frame them as you would any photo.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option is probably the only way to cheaply conserve your pastel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2017-12-24T20:31:18.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3703" CreationDate="2017-12-25T12:11:10.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glassine is used for protecting drawings, prints, etc while shipping or storing them, and not for displaying them.  The proper way to permanently frame and display your artwork would be the one suggested by @Nothingismagick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheaper alternative to glass that I know of is &lt;strong&gt;Plexiglass&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://Glassine%20is%20used%20for%20protecting%20drawings,%20prints,%20etc%20while%20shipping%20or%20storing%20them,%20and%20not%20displaying%20them.%20%20%20The%20proper%20way%20to%20permanently%20frame%20and%20display%20your%20artwork%20would%20be%20the%20one%20suggested%20by%20@Nothingismagick.%20%20The%20cheaper%20alternative%20to%20glass%20that%20I%20know%20of%20is%20Plexiglas.%20%20Glass%20vs.%20Plexiglass%20Framing%20link&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glass vs. Plexiglass Framing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3070" LastActivityDate="2017-12-25T12:11:10.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3715" CreationDate="2017-12-26T15:21:36.313" Score="7" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been researching about the types of paper that are well suited for watercolor pencils. But so far, I've come across hot, cold, and rough pressed paper. I'm not entirely sure if these are the only options and how they're different from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some factors to consider when choosing paper? With some paper I've used  the paper wet and when I draw over it with a watercolor pencil it pills severely (or would that happen with any watercolor paper?). I would rather not have that quality in a paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there paper that provides tooth for detail, but that also accepts water and layers of color well enough to not pill? What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3074" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T21:10:48.177" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T21:10:48.177" Title="What criteria should I consider for choosing paper for watercolor pencils" Tags="|paper|watercolor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-27T13:29:01.533" Score="3" ViewCount="867" Body="&lt;p&gt;While gift wrapping this holiday season I was trying to cut gift wrap with scissors in one pass. That is to say that I was not opening and closing the scissors while I was cutting the paper but trying to push the open scissors through the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to cut paper like that makes for cleaner cuts compared to repeated cuts. This, of course, is only good for making straight cuts. However I am having issues with my technique as I can frequently get caught or stuck which tears the paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered the following factors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper tautness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharpness of the tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could watch my mom do this like it was super easy but I only have a 20% success rate of doing it in one pass. This isn't limited to just gift wrap but that is where it comes up more often given the length of cuts needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I cut long paper in one cut from scissors without having to open and close them as I cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T16:18:44.613" Title="How can I cut paper in one cut with scissors?" Tags="|paper|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3712" CreationDate="2017-12-27T14:06:17.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the first things you’ll want to remember is that you should always be using archival quality &lt;strong&gt;acid-free&lt;/strong&gt; paper. Also, the heavier the paper, the less the paper will wrinkle when wet. In fact, after about 2mm of thickness one will generally be speaking of board, not paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot pressed papers (and boards) are smoother than cold pressed, and although there are many pulp options, you should really consider 100% cotton rag. Don’t try and be a hero saving the environment - use virgin non-recycled materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many artists attach their watercolor paper to a wooden board with masking tape along all the edges. This prevents the paper from curling too much, however I never liked the fact that the tape generally rips off the top surface of the paper. That’s why I spread acid-free bookbinder’s PVA glue across the back of 350g cold-pressed paper and bond to the smooth side of a sheet of Masonite (HDF) reinforced with a wooden struts, all of which is later used as a backing plate to attach the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice specifically for your use case is to use the pencils only when the paper is dry - otherwise you really run the risk of damaging the surface. That and to start using a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2017-12-27T19:13:26.200" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T19:13:26.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3723" CreationDate="2017-12-27T14:30:03.550" Score="6" ViewCount="9626" Body="&lt;p&gt;As we learned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/454/how-to-make-a-pom-pom&quot;&gt;How to make a pom-pom?&lt;/a&gt; they are fairly easy to make. The problem is that they are just as easy to take apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could get your pom pom trimmed to make the perfect sphere and it takes little to no effort to pull individual strings from the ball. Do this enough and the integrity of the ball starts to fail and exacerbates the issue and they can start to fall out on there own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the commercial products that use pom poms e.g. clothing, toys, etc. do nothing to prevent this (Wife hates it when I test them). That tells me it is not a huge issue that industry, as a whole, does not attempt to mitigate it. It's not that can't. I'm sure its a matter of cost justification and its not worth it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I make something I would like it to last as long as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to reduce the likelihood of a pom pom falling apart? Or at least slow it down. Glue comes to mind.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T11:39:46.360" Title="How do I make pom poms not fall apart as easily?" Tags="|preservation|yarn|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3714" CreationDate="2017-12-27T18:12:22.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Focus on keeping the paper against the point where the two scissor blades cross.  At this one point, the paper is being sliced simultaneously by both blades which decreases the thickness which each blade needs to cut through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the paper slides forward onto only one blade, the speed of cutting slows because one of the two blades has been removed from the cutting process.  This slows the advance of the scissors across the paper, inviting you to compensate by applying more forward pressure.  The additional pressure speeds up the cut but slams the paper into the crux of the blades, inviting a snag and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow steady motion, with a focus on using only the crux of the blades should result in a higher percentage of success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that,...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T18:12:22.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3716" CreationDate="2017-12-28T12:53:33.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to make the pom-pom not fall apart as easily you have to pull the string tighter when making a knot. Some tips to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;loop the string about 3 times before making the final knot&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use your finger to hold the string in place when making the knot&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;try using a different (not yarn) string for the knot – a thin and strong one (so that it doesn’t break when pulled tight)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you are using the same yarn to tie the knot as the one the pom-pom is made of, and you are using natural yarn, then try soaking the knotting string (just that string) in warm/hot water and make the knot while it is still wet (it should shrink when it dries, giving you a tighter knot)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the reason why pom-pom manufacturers don’t do anything about it being  easy to pull separate strings from a pom-pom is because pom-poms are not meant to have their strings pulled out one by one, and they turn out to be just fine if you don’t do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel like you need to use glue anyway, try it, and share your results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2017-12-28T13:31:08.093" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T13:31:08.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2017-12-28T20:13:10.913" Score="5" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I want to do is have each CD digipak (basically a cardboard CD case) foil-stamped and slightly sunken (embossed? reverse-embossed?) into the cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for suggestions on how to do this in an inexpensive way, at home. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dEnw4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dEnw4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Foil Numbers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be done by hand?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If not, is there any specific machine out there that I should be looking at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3084" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:17:35.210" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:17:35.210" Title="Making foil numbered digipak CD cases at home" Tags="|paper|cardboard|foil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2017-12-28T22:21:18.520" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not require the thickness apparent in the provided image, you may be satisfied with laser foil, also called heat transfer foil. The laser aspect is somewhat misleading, as it uses a laser printer (or toner-based copier) to bond the foil to the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base concept in the above described process is that toner is printed in the normal manner on paper or card stock. The laser transfer foil is then attached to the surface to cover the printed area. The layers are then fed through the printer, printing nothing on the second pass. The fusing drum heats the pre-printed portion, causing the foil to merge with it. When cooled (seconds later), the foil is removed except for the melted segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the same foil, one can perform similar results with a laser engraver/cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not considering high production levels, an inexpensive monochrome laser printer and rolls of the foil may do as you require. The thickness of the cardboard has to be minimized to no more than the maximum capacity of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The debossing (opposite of embossing) portion would complicate matters, although manual stamping after the foil is applied may work. I don't believe that a laser printer will perform well in areas of paper that has become recessed due to debossing, which would prevent the laser foil from bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oMzRO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oMzRO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;laser foil on wood&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the above photo, the material can be applied to a wood surface. It's unlikely that the wood was run through a laser printer prior to the foil application!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T22:21:18.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="635" CreationDate="2017-12-30T22:57:26.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;station point&lt;/em&gt; is the distance at which you are looking at an object, (i.e. how far you are from it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;horizon line&lt;/em&gt; is where your eyes are, (i.e. if are you looking the object from below, above or the front).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no guidelines to where to place these, you can look at an object from whatever angle or distance you wish. But changing your position in relation to an object (or a scene) will change the way it appears to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of how an object/scene would look viewed from different heights (i.e. changing the horizon line), from higher (like stepping on a chair) to lower (like lying on the ground):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k39Cy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k39Cy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.martinbaileyphotography.com/2017/04/10/the-effect-of-subject-distance-and-focal-length-on-perspective-podcast-568/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; it is explained how different a scene will look viewed from different distances (i.e. changing the station point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3092" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T22:57:26.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3716" CreationDate="2017-12-31T19:30:03.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next to the methods in the answer by user18849, stronger string, tighter knot and wet string to tie, you can stitch the center of the pompom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prepare the pompom as usual, but instead of just putting a circle of string around it, you punch a needle through the bunch of yarn in the middle of the pompom, combined with going around. &#xA;For this you want strong sewing yarn, in a colour that is near of that of the pompom. (But if you have no other, black or white should not show in a well filled pompom.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to go through and around, through and around, etc, quite a few times. In theory you need to go through each of the yarns twice, in practice you will go through one many times and missing an other completely. This is why you will still need to tie very tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T19:30:03.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3663" CreationDate="2018-01-01T10:20:01.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A UK children's show call &quot;Art Attack&quot; maybe very useful for you. &#xA;I recommend you soak all your toilet or kitchen paper in enough water to get a putty like consistency. You then make the whole item in one go and allow it to dry. This will help with your dry skin problem (I hope), because you'll be handling something damp rather than repeatedly dipping your hands in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastEditorUserId="2994" LastEditDate="2018-01-05T20:26:31.223" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T20:26:31.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3726" CreationDate="2018-01-01T18:30:10.900" Score="5" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question whether if one begins to use a watercolor block for drawings, if the paint stains the sides of the other sheets in the block by the edge, or does the glue prevent this? I wondering b/c I don't have much space for taping down paper, if it's even worth the extra cost and less clutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3074" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T21:14:56.413" Title="Using watercolor blocks" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3725" CreationDate="2018-01-02T21:18:38.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glue might prevent this (depending on if the glue really is spread perfectly along all the edges), but a visual inspection should be enough. More likely is that the surface tension of the water will keep it from spilling over the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really worried about this and your technique requires huge amounts of water on the surface of the paper, you could apply some removable liquid frisket to the edges (available online or at your art supply store [e.g. windsor&amp;amp;newton]). Test it to make sure that the brand you are using does not damage the surface of the paper when you remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-01-02T21:37:32.553" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T21:37:32.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2532" CreationDate="2018-01-03T09:35:52.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4uCnp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3 photo&amp;#39;s. two showing a single winged sonobe. One flat one folded a third photo of 3 units assembled together&quot;&gt;&#xA;Image is mine. I took it for this answer.&#xA;As you have stated you can make a cube expect you can get to the point with the three pieces together. &#xA;Which for me shows where to put the next 6. Is the adding the last 3 units the point where you get stuck?&#xA;If so i find assembling the last three pieces together and then putting them in easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the terminology I do know how to make a octahedron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure all your sonobe's are the same. It doesn't matter if they all 'lean' left or right but you need 12 the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastEditorUserId="3094" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T10:16:34.613" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T10:16:34.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-03T15:08:41.873" Score="8" ViewCount="17560" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over a year ago I was gifted a lovely cat ear hat that was hand knit by an artist on Etsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfhhc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfhhc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cat ear hat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love wearing it but since I've worn it so many times (and sometimes wear headphones over it while at work) it has stretched out quite a bit and now falls off my head easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a safe way to shrink it back to its unstretched size?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've asked the person who gifted me the hat for the shop they bought it from, and the creator says it is made of a wool blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to ask before doing something rash, like throwing it in the dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2018-01-09T21:10:19.533" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T17:45:57.247" Title="How can I shrink hand knitted wool blend hat to original size?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2018-01-04T13:15:26.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so in compliance with the above mentioned issue of the eraser actually removing (even a tiny) portion of paper layer, like Bristol paper for instance, I have found the following to come in rather handy. Before I start to draw with my pencil, I use the eraser on the blank page and basically erase the whole page, while it still has nothing on it. This way, the initial piece of thin layer is removed and I have far fewer problems with fading after I erase the pencil lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a given, it may or may not work, but it has reduced by substantial levels the frustration on my part. Oh yeah, and if you do try this, do your best not to wrinkle or fold your blank page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3103" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T17:09:09.647" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T17:09:09.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3520" CreationDate="2018-01-04T15:59:27.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't say this is really a specific art type but &quot;Naïve figurative marker drawing&quot; or &quot;cartoon style marker art&quot; come to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T15:59:27.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3537" CreationDate="2018-01-04T16:47:01.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building on Richardson's answer, a search of 'gothic landscape folk art' yields similar results for me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I think this effect could be achieved with both oil and acrylic paint on either canvas, paper or if you like, wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T16:47:01.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2018-01-04T16:59:53.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hat is definitely knitted.  You have several variables to think about - fiber content (unknown, TBD), yarn size and openness (fairly loose and open), and fabric construction (knit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest not burning a yarn to ID the fiber content of the hat; if it's acrylic you don't want to breathe the fumes, if it's cotton it could flare up and burn you.  Wait to hear from the maker - this is an easy question for him/her to answer. You can search for your hat maker on Etsy (&quot;knitted cat-ear hat&quot;) or ask your friend for the name of the maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the hat is made of cotton (doesn't look like it), or wool fiber&lt;/strong&gt; you can wash and reshape it.  For these fibers, either wash by hand or on a delicate machine cycle,  and machine-dry either by tumbling in a warm dryer until almost dry and reshaping it - scrunching it up a little - on a towel to complete drying, or completely drying in the dryer for maximum shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the hat is a manufactured/synthetic fiber&lt;/strong&gt; -in which case it will most likely be acrylic- you will need to try and shrink the fabric (the knit) back into shape since the fiber does not shrink.  Chances are the knit fabric just got stretched out.  After washing, dry the hat completely in a warm (not hot) dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is the hat is made of acrylic fiber/yarn.  Acrylics are easy-care - meaning they machine wash and dry quite nicely so you don't have to worry about damage unless you use a hot dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very cool hat, good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T16:59:53.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3740" CreationDate="2018-01-04T17:15:46.563" Score="6" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a detailed pendant out of cast silver as a gift, but when doing detailed work, and the wax starts to get thin, it breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to minimize breakage when working with this wax? some sort of medium to hold it on? If this doesn't exist, is there a way to gently mend it so it can still endure being cast in a kiln after repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the work always has one flat 'face' that can be laid on a table or other surface, but for accuracy in detail work, I often have to hold it or easily control if it moves or not. The item I'm working on currently is roughly the size of a quarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the wax looks like:&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRvut.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRvut.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T14:30:35.810" Title="Eliminating or mending breakage when working with jeweler's wax" Tags="|jewelry|wax|casting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3734" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-01-04T17:16:26.640" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T17:16:26.640" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T17:16:26.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3735" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-01-04T17:16:26.640" Score="0" Body="For questions about casting of liquid metals, plastics, resins, etc. into a mold or desired shape." OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T15:47:00.203" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T15:47:00.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3739" CreationDate="2018-01-04T18:29:57.917" Score="5" ViewCount="25347" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been doing some leather work and we're using super glue to hold the edges together uniformly before stitching for a better hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I keep having is that if there is any glue residue on the leather, the stain I'm using doesn't stain, and instead leaves a rather obvious mark where the glue is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sandpaper&lt;/em&gt; - this didn't work well. It left scratch marks on the leather that the stain seeped into and it pretty much sucked. I used a fine paper but it still scratched.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;nail polish remover&lt;/em&gt; - this worked OK but effected the stain. I had to do a couple rounds of using it across the whole project to make it uniform again. Diminished the effects of the glue but didn't get rid of it completely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;adding more stain&lt;/em&gt; - this didn't work hahaha. just made my project super dark and some what blotchy which I had to fix with more nail polish remover. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open to trying people's suggestions and reporting back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T19:42:57.780" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T14:07:05.407" Title="How can I remove glue from leather without ruining the leather?" Tags="|adhesives|leather|staining|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3737" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-01-04T18:31:13.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stains can be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a thin, finely-pigmented colorant that is typically not opaque (so it modifies the surface color rather than replacing it like paint), that forms a surface film or impregnates the surface of the material, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a wash that causes a chemical reaction that changes the surface color of the material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stains are typically used on wood or cement and can be used on other materials.  The coloring usually doesn't penetrate deeply into the material.  They differ from dyes and paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dyes are transparent, non-pigmented colorants that are blended throughout a material or permeate the surface of the material.  They modify the material's color.  Dyes are typically used on fabric, leather, or to color resin, and can be used on wood and with other materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Paints are an opaque surface coating based on pigments and a binder.  Almost any material can be coated with paint as long as the binder will stick to it.  If the material is flexible, the binder must be a flexible material so the paint film doesn't break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a paint, stain, or dye with any material it is compatible with.  The selection is based on the coloring objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To completely hide the material's color and make the surface a target color, use paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To modify the existing color on the surface, use a stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To modify the existing color, or create transparent color in a clear material, either on the surface or throughout, use a dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The different kinds of colorants each have pros and cons, and vary in their durability, longevity, range of compatible materials, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stains and dyes can also produce different coloring effects.  For example, dye tends to penetrate a material like wood more uniformly, while (penetrating) stain concentrates its pigment particles in areas where higher porosity absorbs more stain.  So stain will highlight the grain more than dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are also other types of colorants and coloring requirements besides these.  This description is only to differentiate these three types of colorants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional reading:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.differencebetween.net/technology/industrial/difference-between-dye-and-stain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Difference Between Dye and Stain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/stain-or-dye&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stain or Dye&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T05:59:59.810" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T05:59:59.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3738" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-01-04T18:31:13.853" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the coloring of materials such as wood or cement with a stain (see tag info for distinctions between stain, dye, and paint). Use in combination with a tag for the material to be stained. Not intended for the meaning of unwanted discoloration. For questions relating to stained glass, use the dedicated tag instead." OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T04:20:27.147" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T04:20:27.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3736" CreationDate="2018-01-04T19:21:58.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a scrap piece of leather and apply several dots of glue to it, then let them dry.  Once they are dry, try each of the following solvents to see which ones remove the glue with a minimum of discoloration to the leather.  Then stain the leather to see how the solvent treated leather accepts color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean water, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water with dish-soap, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rubbing alcohol, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;acetone (nail polish remover) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dilute ammonia &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dilute bleach&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never mix the solvents with each other.  Apply each solvent to a separate dot of dried glue using a q-tip or folded paper towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T19:21:58.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3733" CreationDate="2018-01-04T23:45:06.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I recall there are grades of microcrystalline wax available in different hardnesses and melting temperatures, so do try others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always used a moldable base to support detailed work. Pitch mixed with Plaster of Paris is the old reliable method. This can be softened with a propane torch, the work pressed in, and upon cooling - you have firm support and if you slip, the pitch won't damage your tools. It's also black which provides strong visual contrast so you can see what you're cutting. If need be you can cut away the pitch in areas where it's in the way. Use chisels for this, a rotary burr will gum up unless you're using a coarse tooth at low speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bees wax is used similarly either pure or mixed with stiffeners like plaster or diatomaceous earth. Plasticine works on some jobs, but vibrations from rotary tools tends to loosen the fit more than beeswax or pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitch can be removed with turpentine or mineral oil which won't affect most waxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &quot;&lt;strong&gt;The Complete Metalsmith - An Illustrated Handbook&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; by Tim McCreight, Davis Publications, 1982&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T23:45:06.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-05T00:07:13.760" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I crochet lots of things but they seem to get dirt and stuff on them. I use lots of yarn but mostly the brand Red Heart. I try cleaning it off with water but it doesn't come off. How do I clean yarn characters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-01-05T05:41:12.830" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T19:20:05.383" Title="How Do I Clean My Characters?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3736" CreationDate="2018-01-05T08:23:55.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are all just guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give the nail polish remover more time to dissolve the glue. &#xA;Give the nail polish more time to dry before staining. &#xA;Try vinegar as a solvent for the superglue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since sandpaper was too abrasive, try an art eraser, Softscrub, toothpaste, or shaving the glue away with a blade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the glue is only visible on the edges of the leather pieces, then stitch over it to hide it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seal up the scratches before staining, by buffing or conditioning the leather.&#xA;Try a different application of the stain, to control it better. Dilute it, or apply with a dry brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T08:23:55.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3537" CreationDate="2018-01-05T09:29:51.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The artist, &lt;a href=&quot;http://amazing-folk-art.weebly.com/debbie-criswell-paintings.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Debbie Criswell&lt;/a&gt;, calls it Primitive Folk Art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T09:29:51.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3736" CreationDate="2018-01-05T15:37:43.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are quite a lot of different superglues (cyanoacrylates), but many come off in boiling water.  You may need to scrub, but hopefully no soak for long.  How well the leather handles this is another matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T15:37:43.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-05T17:50:41.283" Score="1" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Silver nitrate is commonly used as a glaze additive - for example in Raku. What effects might be expected from using small amounts of silver nitrate in the clay body itself!? Would this affect the vitrification temperature of the clay body? Is it safe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2018-01-05T20:27:39.607" LastActivityDate="2022-04-12T17:19:42.453" Title="Silver nitrate added to clay body" Tags="|ceramics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2018-01-05T18:22:52.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, blending stumps can be cleaned fairly well by molding a kneadable eraser around the tip and twisting them inside the eraser several times. If it doesn't get most of the graphite, etc. off the first time, knead in the graphite and repeat as necessary. I've tried sanding and carving them, but I've never been satisfied with the results. The tips tend to be sloppy ever-after once the surface has been abraded or cut--and of course the surface itself will never be as smooth as it was when new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cost is a big factor, it's possible to make your own tortillons. Just do a web search for DIY tortillons or similar. I've made them and been fairly satisfied with the results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line for me: it's worth cleaning them with a kneaded eraser, but not sanding/carving them. I find it too inconvenient to make my own, considering that the price for tortillons is quite low (and of course that the commercially made ones are better). I do keep the irretrievably dirty ones and use them as drawing tools, and for places where their grubbiness is not a problem. That helps to keep my cleaner tortillons from getting to that used-up stage quite so quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T18:22:52.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3741" CreationDate="2018-01-05T19:20:05.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been my experience that items made with synthetic yarn and synthetic fiber fill can be washed by hand. If the item has become extremely soiled, it may be worth trying it in the washing machine on a gentle or hand wash cycle. You may want to remove sewed-on items if you feel they are vulnerable. I like drying in a dryer because the item is less likely to get musty, but if you judge your item to be too fragile, drying in the sun should also work. The important thing is not to let it stay damp for any longer than absolutely necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a handheld steam cleaner, you could try that too, especially if you have stubborn stains. I've used mine with vinegar mixed into the water to successfully clean cushions soiled with urine, but I've never used it on a hand-knitted stuffed character. Still, it's another option you could consider experimenting with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T19:20:05.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3725" CreationDate="2018-01-05T20:07:13.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercially made watercolor blocks do not stain the sheets below the one you're working on, nor do they stain the edges of the paper (except for the little 'not-glued' bit. It's possible (though it's never happened to me) that you could get some staining at the little open bit that's left in order to enable you to remove the finished painting. It would be minimal if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watercolor blocks are EXPENSIVE. I love them, so I make my own from watercolor pads. You can purchase &quot;padding compound&quot; online. I get mine from Dick Blick, but I'm sure other places--Cheap Joes, etc.--also carry it, or you could look at Amazon. Once you buy a bottle, you'll probably never need another one--it doesn't take a lot. Search Youtube for tutorials on turning a pad into a block. It's easy. That said, if you're not careful, you can get some glue into the edges of your home-made block. That's never been an issue for me when it's happened. The quarter inch or so at the edge of your painting is going to be hidden behind the mat if you frame it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't personally like any size bigger than 10 X 14 in (26 x 36 cm) for watercolor blocks. They tend to ripple too much and may even separate in places from the glued edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second suggestion: You can tape down the pages of a watercolor pad TO the pad--whether spiral bound or glued. I use painters tape--white or gray if you can find it (to keep the color from confusing your color sense while painting). If you're careful to keep the width consistent, you can create an attractive white edge around the paper. (Be sure to burnish the tape down with some hard smooth object like a plastic spoon to keep paint from bleeding under it). I put a piece across the bound edge too, to keep that edge white and complete the &quot;frame.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastEditorUserId="3110" LastEditDate="2018-01-05T21:14:56.413" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T21:14:56.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3657" CreationDate="2018-01-06T06:56:51.463" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I have been drawing and painting for more than 25 years, my suggestions may help.&#xA;First, if you want to focus on drawing/painting realistically, you have to be gifted. If this is so with you, just don't bother about what 'instructors' say. Ignore so called 'art-critics' too. I have yet to meet an 'art-critic' who can draw a lollipop.&#xA;Secondly, study in detail any works that inspire you and develop your talents by getting inspired. There will come a time when you will stand in awe in front of of your work, and so will others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3112" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T06:56:51.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3733" CreationDate="2018-01-06T18:00:45.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this to make a pattern for investment casting? If so, any wax or plastic (with no filler like Fiberglass) can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I worked in the industry they made patterns of paraffin wax and used beeswax blend for attachments. As I remember, they mostly used soldering irons for shaping. The molds were burned out at 1700°F; this may be different in the jewelry business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-01-09T14:30:35.810" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T14:30:35.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-07T01:16:30.070" Score="2" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like watercolor pencil technique very much. Are there professional artists that work in watercolor pencil tehnique. If no - then why not? Soft pastels and soft pastel pencils are accepted and rather widely used medium by professional artists. What about watercolor pencils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be happy to get inspiration for my own efforts and to be sure that my efforts using watercolor pencils have perspective to achieve more higher level of acceptance as art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2461" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T21:03:41.413" Title="Seeking inspiration - are there professional watercolor pencil artists and if no - why not?" Tags="|watercolor|colored-pencils|pencils|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3751" CreationDate="2018-01-07T15:58:45.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look up Gary Greene. He has some beautiful work and also instructional materials available on Youtube, ArtistsNetwork, Amazon and probably elsewhere. He does both colored pencil and watercolor pencil work. Watercolor pencils are a natural extension of straight colored pencil work. CP artists will sometimes melt their cp pasages with various solvents. Watercolor pencil uses a similar technique, except that the solvent is water. As I'm sure you're aware, it's the beauty of watercolor pencil (and also the use of other solvents with straight cp) that some passages will be dissolved and others left untreated, according to the discretion of the artist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use any medium in a professional art career. The key here is not the medium used but your own creativity, skill, salesmanship and most of all, hard and persistent work. If your favorite medium is wc pencils, then dig in. It's a great medium to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T15:58:45.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3745" CreationDate="2018-01-07T16:08:03.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glaze additives aren't always appropriate for adding to a clay body, but sometimes they can be. I've never used silver nitrate or even heard of its use in glazes, but then I've never been a Raku artist. It sounds like a lot of fun, but I don't have the equipment or the community for doing it, so I've always stuck to plain mid-fire stoneware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have silver nitrate on hand, why not experiment with adding a small amount to your Raku body and see what happens. That's kind of the spirit of Raku anyway; experimentation. Raku (as I'm sure you're aware) isn't typically intended to be used other than as a beautiful object of art. It isn't even necessarily expected to be durable (at least not for decades). Since the kiln set-up is so casual, you probably aren't going to do any damage to your equipment. Just be sure to take the usual Raku precautions, maybe protect your kiln shelf with a disk of bisqued clay and wear appropriate clothing, gloves, eye covering, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T16:08:03.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3714" CreationDate="2018-01-07T16:18:44.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already received one excellent answer, so I'll just add to that. I've found that the sharpness of the scissors is an important factor. You can purchase reasonably-priced sharpeners online (with a special function for scissors). I have one--inexpensive, not motorized or anything fancy--and it's worked very well for me. Sadly, some scissors blades are too badly damaged to be so easily repaired, but for normally-used scissors, it's perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the quality of the wrapping paper matters. Thinner papers are more difficult to cut, and sometimes flocked papers may confound your perfect cut. That said, with good sharp scissors and following Henry Taylor's advice I think you're going to be a wrapping pro in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T16:18:44.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3712" CreationDate="2018-01-07T16:34:29.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're getting your paper very wet (wc pencil artists often use only small amounts of water), you probably do want to use actual wc paper. Quality does make a difference. If you find your paper is pilling up, consider a better quality of paper. I use Arches, but there are several other high-quality options. You may have to buy it on-line as hot press can be difficult to find. Shop around; it's expensive, but absolutely worth it. For pencils, I think you'll be happier with a hot-pressed surface, but by all means experiment and see what you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy way to keep small to medium-sized paintings from rippling up too much when wet is to use masking tape to tape the top page of a wc pad to the rest of the pad. Just run it all along the edges and fold it down over the edges of the pad. Burnish it down with a plastic spoon or similar non-reactive tool (some cheaper metal spoons will mark the paper). When you peel the tape off, be sure to keep the tape you're holding low and close to the paper and peel away from the edge of the pad. With a high quality paper, this should not damage DRY paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't use loads of water, then consider trying Stonehenge, which is a favorite with colored pencil artists. You can tape it down as above or tape it do a rigid surface of your choice. Use painters blue or green tape or else if you want to use plain masking tape, &quot;de-tack&quot; it a bit by sticking it to your clothing a couple of times before taping down your paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T16:34:29.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3706" CreationDate="2018-01-07T16:58:40.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I liked the fat Crayola markers with the single sharp conical tip for my art kids at the YMCA when I taught there. I tried cheaper brands, but in the long run the Crayola ones lasted longer, worked better and ended up costing less. Be sure to teach your kids to put lids back on right away, and to press LIGHTLY and they should last a long time. If they do get dried out before they get emptied of ink, you can sometimes revive them by dipping the tip in hot tap water for a few seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you can get Crayola with tips on both ends. I've never found double tips to be a valuable feature with my own higher quality Copic markers. I never use the chisel tip. The shaped tips sometimes on offer (like stamped stars, forked tips, etc.) are just kind of a gimmick in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my classes I also bought thinner Crayola markers for the older kids. These offer a smaller tip and are good for greater detail, but if I were buying for my own use, I'd get the fat ones (or more likely some of both). They're not archival, or I WOULD use them. They're very nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T16:58:40.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3705" CreationDate="2018-01-07T17:21:28.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If these are silk rose petals, I might try using some Rit or other fabric dye (the cheap kind you get in the little boxes at some hardware stores). I would put them in a zip-lock bag, pour in enough dissolved dye to get them all damp, squish any air out, and put them in the microwave oven for a minute or less. They need to get hot but not boiling. Don't do more than a handful until you see how this works, and DON'T over-fill the bag. A lot depends on the fiber content of the fabric the petals are made from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you have are actual dried rose petals the only feasible way I can think of would be to powder them with some black pigment (like powdered black tempera paint). If they're going to be sitting about in bowls, not being touched, that could work, but not if they're going to be strewn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're fresh rose petals, you probably just need to use them as they are. White is a great foil for black, so you could mix in some black petals or other light-weight black objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one of the other answers suggests, you can dye fresh flowers by putting concentrated dye (food coloring, probably fabric dye, ink--anything liquid and not too nasty should work) into the water. Fresher flowers are likely to work best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T17:21:28.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3703" CreationDate="2018-01-07T17:49:52.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure in what way you want to protect your art with plastic. If you want to package it so it can be seen and sold, you can get crystal-clear bags from clearbags.com. I've purchased from them and been very satisfied. They have a wide range of sizes. As &quot;Nothingismagick&quot; said, pastel art requires more protection than this, but watercolor, acrylic, thoroughly cured oil painting, colored pencil, and most other mediums should do fine in these bags. They really show your work to advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for an alternative to glass in framing, then you want some kind of plexiglass. In most cases the best place to look for this is in your local (preferably smallish) hardware store. This isn't likely to save you money since the better plexi-type glass alternatives are not cheap. However, it does have the advantage of not being so fragile (though most of it is easily scratched).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to find a less expensive way of framing your watercolor or other fragile work (but NOT pastel--whether chalk or oil), it is possible to spray your artwork with an archival varnish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray both sides, and keep coating it until it repels water on both sides. If you want to end up with a matte finish, use matte varnish ONLY for the final coat, as it will slightly obscure the artwork--not noticeable with one coat, but with many coats it will be unsatisfactory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you would use a watercolor board as opposed to a flexible paper, or if you do use paper, you will need to mount it on archival foam board or other lightweight, rigid, acid-free backing--but you were going to do that before framing anyway. Watercolors, charcoals, pencil or colored pencil, or similar mediums treated in this way can be framed without matting or glass because they can be gently wiped clean with a damp cloth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T17:49:52.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3702" CreationDate="2018-01-07T18:57:02.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are my suggestions for transport:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carry your charcoal painting flat. Cut a piece of matte board or cardboard the right size. Wrap the rigid backing and your painting together with plastic wrap, then protect the package with a plastic bag.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the piece is too big to carry flat, experiment with rolling some test pieces sprayed with workable fixative and protected by a cover sheet. See how that works. If it doesn't smudge up, you're golden. I would use a shipping tube if I could find one, just to protect the edges from any damage, and put the whole thing in a plastic garbage bag in case of spills. Once you arrive, repair any damages; they should be non-existent to minor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you expect to do further work on your piece when you arrive, I suggest you spray it with final fixative before packing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T18:57:02.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3690" CreationDate="2018-01-07T19:33:18.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would never trust a non-ceramic surface in the dishwasher. Enameled mugs may last a long time if you hand wash them, but if you care about them, go ahead and put your best finish on and then hand wash them. The problem is the detergent. It's highly alkaline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potters work very hard to develop glazes that can withstand that hot, alkaline environment over the decades. I have a treasured collection of glaze recipes that have stood the test of time. I have others that, though beautiful, I use only on decorative pieces. Even though they may be food safe (most of them), they can't hold up to the dishwasher. Mod podge is not going to hold up to the dishwasher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T19:33:18.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3688" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:08:05.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do want to paint the bits between the contacts, then you might try experimenting with watercolor masking fluid. It's a rubbery compound that you paint on and allow to dry before painting. You'd want a small flat brush just the right size to cover the contacts with one stroke. It peels off completely, and I don't think it would hurt your contacts once removed. My favorite brand is Pebeo Drawing Gum because it's easier to apply with a high degree of precision than other brands I've used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I would be worried about (assuming you can apply it easily and quickly enough) would be how it would work with whatever kind of paint you'll be using. You'd want to experiment with that before working on something you care about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T20:08:05.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3686" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:22:43.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked at your link. That's oil paint. It's possible to purchase just the pigments and make your own paint (whatever kind of paint you choose), but pigments come in a powdered form, not in a tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint of any kind consists of pigments mixed into an adhesive. Oil paint uses oil as its base. This works because oil gets all sticky and gummy as it dries, and thus adheres the pigment to the chosen support surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T20:22:43.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3685" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:34:15.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an oil painter, but do remember that you'll also need mediums to mix into your oil paints as you work in order to control the thickness and transparency of the paint and to clean your brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Five ounces is a fairly good-sized tube and I'd expect you'll have plenty as long as your paintings aren't terribly large and you keep the painting surface smooth rather than highly textured (impasto). Nine by twelve inches is a typical student size--large enough for ease of work but small enough to be manageable for a beginner. The colors you will usually need the most of are white, yellow, and whichever brown Bob has you using. The other colors (reds, blues) tend to be very saturated. In most cases you'll be mixing fairly small amounts of them with your medium or with white or yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T20:34:15.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3674" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:43:09.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your diamond dust is being displaced by the force of the spray varnish, then I'd suggest either &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applying the diamond dust to wet paint or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applying the diamond dust to the varnish before it dries and then varnishing over it again once it's dried.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T20:43:09.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3673" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:51:23.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically you choose the width of the elastic based on the width of your waistband. So if you have a 1&quot; wide waistband, you'll need 3/4&quot; to 1&quot; wide elastic. You control the stretch by using more or less elastic. If you're sensitive to tight waistbands, then just use a longer piece of elastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T20:51:23.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3667" CreationDate="2018-01-07T20:58:01.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most ball-point pens of any kind need a little bit of tooth in order to release their ink onto a surface. I just tried a gel pen on several plastic films and it didn't work. It does work on vellum, though. If you want to use the acetate, I'd go with a fine-point Sharpie. It can be rubbed off many smooth surfaces, but it will apply ink. Acrylic pens would likely work, but they're a bit touchy and irritable to work with when you apply them over a smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T20:58:01.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3657" CreationDate="2018-01-07T22:23:13.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many ways to go about getting an image on a page and you've gotten a LOT of good ideas here. I really recommend searching for drawing instruction on-line, such as on Youtube. This isn't the sort of forum where you'll get adequate drawing and sketching instruction. That said: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Observation. Strive to see what is THERE, not what you &quot;know&quot; to be there. To start, it helps a LOT to work from photographs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Composition. Make sure you have a point of interest--preferably something that naturally draws interest like a person or a bright flower or an eye, etc. In most cases, do not put your center of interest in the center of the page.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your point of interest has at least some of these attributes: the greatest detail, greatest tonal contrast, brightest color, most significance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rough in. Do not work on details until you have basic shapes to represent your overall drawing. If you do start detailing, whatever thing you start working on first will end up too large and will crowd out the rest of your image.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work from less detail to greatest detail, and keep everything else less rendered than your point of interest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a few ideas. There's loads of free instruction out there, so go find it! Have fun. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastEditorUserId="3110" LastEditDate="2018-01-07T22:44:46.710" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T22:44:46.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2018-01-07T22:56:37.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;JPhi is right; a drill is the best tool for this. On the other hand, it's really tricky to start a drill on a small, round surface. Ideally you would use a drill press that could take very small drill bits, and then clamp your sticks down onto the drill press table. Assuming you aren't going to want to invest in all that stuff, maybe you could find an easier way to accomplish your goal than to drill holes in little sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need these little sticks with holes in, I would flatten one side of the stick in the spot where the hole goes, maybe with a pocket knife. That will make it a little easier to get the drill bit started into the wood. Make sure you keep your fingers in safe places and give it a try. If you have a rotary (like a Dremel) tool, that might be easier to use than a full-sized drill. It would also be helpful to conscript a friend (unless you have three hands.) ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T22:56:37.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2018-01-07T23:34:22.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about making your tubes from large pieces of cardboard? That way you can size them to fit, spray paint them white, and fasten them together with the red cord, like in your photo. A local furniture and appliance store or lumberyard may be able to supply you with cardboard for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3110" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T23:34:22.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2018-01-08T04:47:51.837" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;It doesn't matter whether the hat was made with knit or crochet.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Suppose it has &lt;strong&gt;wool&lt;/strong&gt; fiber content, or &lt;strong&gt;unknown&lt;/strong&gt; fiber content.  If unknown, we must assume it has some wool in it, to play it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Premeasuring&lt;/strong&gt; (in preparation for blocking).  Turn the hat inside out and lay it out flat on a table.  Measure the half-circumference of the hat by measuring the width of the cuff or bottom band.  Stand the tape measure on its edge to allow it to follow the natural curve of the hat, or allow your tape measure to come up from the horizontal plane if necessary to follow the curvature of the hat.  Also measure the height (from the edge, or folded cuff edge, to the top, or center of the crown). Write down the measurements.  Now turn the hat right-side out and put it on.  Pinch the cloth with your fingers and look in the mirror, to try to figure out how much too big the hat is for you, in each direction.  Keep the fact that you're working with a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;half&lt;/strong&gt; circumference&lt;/em&gt; measurement in mind.  Subtract from what you measured and write down what you think the ideal measurements would be for this hat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Washing&lt;/strong&gt;.  Even if it's wool, you can wash the hat by hand in cold water.  Woolite would be a reasonable choice but laundry soap or detergent labeled for baby clothes would also work.  Don't scrub, just swish the garment around and let it soak for five minutes.  Rinse several times, using a tiny bit of fabric softener in the last rinse.  When you're done, do not wring (twist); instead, gently squeeze dry to the point where it's not dripping copiously.  Since your garment is small, if you like, you could put it in a colander and then push a similarly shaped bowl down on it to get a bit more water out.  (If you are a body builder, do not use much strength when pushing down on the colander.)  Now, lay out a clean, dry, old towel and put your garment on it.  Start to roll the towel by folding over the short end and continuing to roll it up, with the garment going along like a jelly roll.  When you've rolled up the whole towel, you may fold it in half.   Wait a few minutes and unroll. Lay the garment on another old towel to dry.  Or lay it flat on a &quot;sweater dryer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blocking.&lt;/strong&gt;  You will work with a steam iron with a misting button.  If the garment is fully dry when you start, you'll mist it with water (both front and back), but if it's still a little damp, you can skip the misting.  Lay it out on an ironing board or a folded towel on an old table.  Measure.  &lt;strong&gt;Let the damp fabric bunch up a bit if necessary to get the desired measurements that you wrote down before washing.&lt;/strong&gt;  Preheat your iron to medium and switch on the steam feature.  Cover the garment with a &quot;press cloth,&quot; a clean piece of cotton cloth or a clean, thin dish towel.  In a pinch you could use an old cotton T-shirt.  Use the iron like a hover board over the fabric sandwich.  The idea is to create steam which will encourage the garment to take the desired measurements.  Don't press down on the fabric sandwich, and don't let go of the iron.  You may allow the iron to come into the tiniest bit of contact with the top (cotton) layer.  From time to time, set the iron down and lift up the cover cloth, to check if the desired measurements have been achieved yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you've reached the desired dimensions, uncover the garment but don't move it, and allow it to air dry in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's no wool fiber content, the garment will probably not benefit from blocking.  In that case, follow Method 2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Suppose there is &lt;strong&gt;no wool&lt;/strong&gt; in this hat.  Hand wash as described above (except you may squeeze a little harder).  After the towel roll-up step, put your garment in the dryer along with a clean, dry old towel.  Set the dryer on &quot;gentle,&quot; &quot;delicate&quot; or &quot;low.&quot;  Check, and give it a few more minutes if necessary.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The dryer will activate the elasticity in the fibers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;em&gt;If the garment is cotton or mostly cotton, there may not be any elasticity to activate.&lt;/em&gt;  In this case, repost with a photograph of the hat and information about the dimensions.  It might be possible to give the hat a little bit of reconstruction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T04:47:51.837" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3751" CreationDate="2018-01-08T07:13:17.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To go at this from a different angle &#xA;My research for this question suggested that that &lt;strong&gt;art&lt;/strong&gt; pencils were invented in the 1920's and watercolor or &lt;em&gt;water soluble&lt;/em&gt; pencils were invented in the 1940's which means they have been around for less the 80 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare this to watercolor cakes being invented in by William Reeves in 1780 and watercolor &lt;em&gt;painting&lt;/em&gt; came to western artists in the late 1400s. Meaning it's been an art form for over 600 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil painting, according to Wikipedia, has been around even longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although oil paint was first used for Buddhist paintings by Indian and Chinese painters in western Afghanistan sometime between the fifth and tenth centuries,[1] it did not gain popularity until the 15th century. Its practice may have migrated westward during the Middle Ages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hypothesize that watercolor pencils are relatively too new still. I know some watercolor painters use the pencils for fine details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T07:13:17.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3751" CreationDate="2018-01-08T14:22:35.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a direct answer to your question but rather some things to draw your attention to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Artists using the same medium as you for inspiration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for inspiration by searching for artists that use the same medium as you do is the closest thing that comes to one’s mind (and it looks good on paper if you are an art teacher) but it is a rather superficial way of approaching the problem. Although you may both be using the same medium, you will most likely be approaching it in a very different way, and using it for very different purposes (have different subjects of interest to draw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should rather look for :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thigs that explore your interests (in whatever  respect), be it in art or other areas of life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;things that have similar aesthetics to the one you appreciate, in any art medium (photography, cinema, oil painting) or in other areas of life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Professional artists&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whom do you consider professional artists? Those who are famous? Those who sell well? These things may have more to do with how well they promote their work, rather than the actual work. For this reason you should better look at separate artworks, rather than artists. (The internet is very convenient for that purpose, but you may want to consider deleting your cookies beforehand – you are looking for new inspiration, not the same things you are familiar with)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accepted art medium&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, any medium becomes respectable when there is an artist acclaimed by some critics (whose opinion you should better ignore; consider your own instead) that uses it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you consider ballpoint pens a respectable drawing medium? Take a look at some &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballpoint_pen_artwork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;artwork made with ballpoint pens&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3117" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T14:22:35.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3751" CreationDate="2018-01-08T21:03:41.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that in the medium and long term (with tendency for this time to become shorter and shorter) the art market assigns the right price to the artwork. I wanted to know specifically the artwork which represent creativity and novelty and not just reproduce the reality images or is just pleasant picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that one should seek the auction sites for the answer and there are some colored pencil artworks ineed:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sothebys.com/en/search-results.html?keyword=colored%20pencil%20on%20paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sothebys.com/en/search-results.html?keyword=colored%20pencil%20on%20paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. Roy Lichtenstein colored pencil artwork was sold by 975.000 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usually, Christies has more modest lots:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/searchresults.aspx?sc_lang=en&amp;amp;lid=1&amp;amp;entry=colored%20pencil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/searchresults.aspx?sc_lang=en&amp;amp;lid=1&amp;amp;entry=colored%20pencil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2461" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T21:03:41.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2814" CreationDate="2018-01-09T04:20:23.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Equal parts beeswax and boiled linseed oil brush on clean, hot steel with a natural bristle brush is the standard for blacking. This creates a very durable finish for interior use. A brazed chain however suggests you've got brass and steel which will not finish evenly. Blacking with heat wont have the same effect on both metals. Your brass will shine through the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mixed metals especially if brass is involved I would use oil paints or if the closest approximation to traditional blacking is desired try lamp black with boiled linseed oil and brush it on cold then wipe the excess off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically I would &quot;blacken&quot; a piece with an acetylene torch - covering the surface with pure carbon and the brush or wipe boiled linseed oil (which cures hard) over it. Wiping again over highlights to accentuate them by removing the carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T04:20:23.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1899" CreationDate="2018-01-09T07:04:37.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that PVA  glues or Polyvinyl acetate is an all purpose, acid free adhesive for most paper projects.  Also know as white glue.  Quick-drying, acid-free based adhesive that keeps paper flat and dries clear.  Apply with a brush.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3120" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T07:04:37.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2018-01-10T01:37:22.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fabric care for a fiber blend should be based on the most delicate fiber in the mix, in this case the wool (percent of a fiber is also important, which is discussed below) .  Wool fiber is a protein fiber like silk, and is weaker when wet, so be gentle with it, no tight squeezing, wringing, or agitation.  (In contrast, cotton is stronger when wet so wringing out cotton items is OK.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a large bowl or a plastic dish pan to hand-wash the hat. Make a cool solution of Woolite or delicate care liquid laundry detergent, use just a little detergent to a lot of water - a lot of suds means you have used too much. Push the hat up and down gently through the water.  You can soak it if it is also really dirty, but in any case, be gentle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gently squeeze out the solution.  Fill the bowl with cool water and repeat as above a few times, till there are no suds in the rinse water, 2-3 rinses should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gently squeeze out the last rinse water. Loosely lay the hat on a clean folded towel and put another folded towel over it. Push gently on the top towel and hold and press gently for a few seconds to get most of the water out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the percent of wool in the blend, you may or may not want to block it with steam.  If the wool percent is high, say over 40 %, the steam blocking method described so well by @aparente001 is the way to go. Just be sure not to steam the ribbing when it’s stretched out, scrunch the ribbing together before steaming.  The give and take - stretchiness- of the rib is what makes the hat fit around your face and head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wool fiber content is low, say 20-40%, I would try blocking the hat by laying the washed and rinsed and gently squeezed and hand-pressed hat on a clean dry towel and scrunching the hat into the approximate size you want and patting it flat. Pay attention to the ribbing at the opening of the hat, push together the ribs a little all the way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is still a lot of water left in the hat at this point, you can repeat the two-towel sandwich and press and hold again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hat will dry faster if you use fresh dry towels through the drying process.  Be sure to turn the hat over a few times as it dries.  Do not hang the hat to dry, it will stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the percent of wool is very small, say 1-10% (which is true sometimes with expensive fibers like cashmere), and the rest is mostly acrylic, if it were me, I’d tumble dry the hat on low heat til it’s almost dry and then lay it on a towel.  Acrylics are “self-blocking” in that they wash and dry beautifully and resume their original shape in the dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the exact composition of the blend, I.e., all the fibers in the blend and their percentages, it’s hard to be more specific than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  The friend who gave you the hat must be very pleased that you like it so much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T01:37:22.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3657" CreationDate="2018-01-10T01:54:13.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only mandatory discipline/fundamental for a drawing is tonality/value because otherwise you haven't draw anything. But since you mentioned 'realistic' you need to follow or obey the proportions/relations also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3126" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T01:54:13.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3816" CreationDate="2018-01-10T08:43:52.577" Score="6" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; method for measuring out a three meter plus warp? I do make felt from my tail trimmings but I prefer to keep wool wastage to a minimum &#xA;On this occasion I'm doing a single colour warp with 160 pieces of wool. Tabby weaving on a ridged heddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For roughly 2m or shorter  I just use the back stick and a peg. Some of my concerns for using that method over a longer length is keeping the tension the same across each strand and I will have to take my loom to an art space to have enough space. I've used a mill once for an 8 shaft but i didn't like how little number you can put on. Would a board with custom length pegs be my best option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastActivityDate="2018-01-19T21:35:44.047" Title="Appropriate tool for measuring longer warps" Tags="|weaving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-10T09:39:24.283" Score="5" ViewCount="22668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make super thick invitation cards. When I use white glue, it looks great for a day but then it starts curling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what I can use ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3127" LastActivityDate="2023-06-16T12:10:11.400" Title="What type of glue to stick paper on paper without curling?" Tags="|paper|adhesives|cardboard|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2018-01-10T10:52:35.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glue stick doesn’t curl paper. You have to be careful what brand you chose, though (some just don’t stick well). Of the ones I know &lt;em&gt;UHU stic&lt;/em&gt; would be a good choice – it’s quite strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T10:52:35.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2018-01-10T21:49:00.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joann.com/yes-paste-all-purpose-stick-flat-glue/1099100.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YES paste&lt;/a&gt; is a glue often used in book-making, because it is more reliable and provides a higher-quality result. You can also dilute the glue to match the heaviness of the paper, which can greatly reduce curling as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Another solution is to leave your cards under a flat weight (like a big book) for the first 30 minutes of dry time. This will help with adhesion and limit how much the paper can pull away. Watch out for exposed glue though, which can stick to the book and tear up your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastEditorUserId="1737" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T15:50:06.353" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T15:50:06.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2018-01-10T21:57:48.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try either an acrylic medium or PVA glue (like the kind for woodworking). After applying it to one or both sides and spreading it out VERY evenly, place the glued pieces between two layers of waxed paper and then press with a heavy weight or clamp between two boards for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don’t dilute it with water, because that’s a great way to introduce wrinkles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T21:57:48.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2018-01-12T00:07:27.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expensive but - how about spraymount? Might be worth using for such an expensive/important multi item project - where weighting every sheet as it dries is going to take you forevvver. I would try it on a few first, and try stacking 5 or ten cards with a larger flat sheet of card and a weight on top like a heavy flat book, as they dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T00:07:27.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3789" CreationDate="2018-01-12T16:01:05.247" Score="4" ViewCount="3981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using leather punches to cut polypropylene film, but the round one isn't sharp enough to do a nice job.  The film cuts nicely with a scalpel or scissors but I need 5mm discs (with a 3x2mm hole in them, cut using the rectangular punch, or a more complex cutout using a scalpel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dg1Oxs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dg1Oxs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leather punches, edge-on&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rectangular one also needed sharpening, but this was easy -- a small diamond file and an approach like sharpening a chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEuxim.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEuxim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leather punches, side-on&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I just can't get a good edge on the round one.  I don't know if I'm having trouble holding it at a consistent angle, or what the problem is. I I've got sharpening stones, a diamond file, and various abrasive sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to sharpening small, hollow, round, steel things like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-03T05:15:59.757" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T05:15:59.757" Title="How can I sharpen a round leather punch?" Tags="|maintenance|sharpening|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2018-01-12T17:47:36.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The approach is the same. You remove metal from the outside of the periphery of the punch end, at an angle roughly the same as it was originally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The contour of the round punch adjacent to the cutting edge looks rounded in your picture. This makes the edge stronger, but makes it trickier to get the sharpening angle right when using a flat stone. The punch won't get sharper unless you remove material right up to the opening, producing a keen edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to pick your sharpening angle (I'd start with 45-degrees) and stick with it until your grinding marks meet the opening. With something like this it's sensible to mount the punch in a drill or drill press and use the stone against the edge while it's rotating. Best results come from holding a consistent angle, which is easier when the drill or other rotating device is fixed to a bench or whatever, not hand-held. I suppose you could try holding the stone fixed and run a hand drill guided by hand, but avoid holding both in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're brave and have a steady hand, you could try using the hand-held drill approach against a a bench grinder or belt sander instead of a stone. Only problem there is when things go wrong the go wrong quickly. Might be something to work up to once you've gotten a feel of how it works against a stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T17:47:36.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2018-01-13T03:07:50.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Echoing above answers, but wanted to add that for something so small and easily broken you should consider a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s/?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=pin+vise&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pin vise hand drill.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is basically just a tiny hand powered drill, you basically turn it to drill the holes. This might be useful if you want to insert wire or pins, or when the item you are drilling is particularly fragile.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vs0W6PiOIOM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt; explaining the use of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3136" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-01-13T13:18:37.543" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T13:18:37.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-13T05:15:32.437" Score="10" ViewCount="858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to test out my limits with my book binding skills and am currently looking for an alternative to using leather. While I am not against using leather for my hardcovers, I am just looking for a more accessible alternative since finding and buying reasonably priced leather is a bit hard for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this method? If so do you think the process of stamping, like you would with leather would give you a similar result in the texture of the fabric?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice or insight would help!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3137" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T14:49:17.373" Title="Can I use Upholstery Vinyl as the fabric for a hardcover book opposed to using Leather?" Tags="|fabric|book-binding|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3791" CreationDate="2018-01-13T14:49:17.373" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, using upholstery vinyl for bookbinding is certainly a possibility. I got a large reem of it from my grandfathers and was curious if it would work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; result to be satisfactory (see pictures below). The part that concerned me was the stiffness difference between my leather books and my new upholstered book. It still opens and closes fine but it does not sit open on a flat surface well (This book in question was bound several years ago so this could be an age thing). So, if this option is available, ensure you get a thinner fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pictures of my upholstered book&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This book has been sitting around for a while so you will see some dust in the pictures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FIVhL.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FIVhL.png&quot; alt=&quot;The book sitting up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still holding itself well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaB1X.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaB1X.png&quot; alt=&quot;Spine of the book&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the picture might make it appear like it, the book does not have any issues closing and opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbNkb.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbNkb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Corner of bound book&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Normally with leather I can wrap the fabric around the corners just right so that the mill board is no longer visible. I found this very difficult with the upholstery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Side note&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am just looking for a more accessible alternative since finding and buying reasonably priced leather is a bit hard for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case this has not occurred to you, I wanted to mentioned my preferred method of acquiring leather for my binding and miscellaneous crafts. I get near all my leather from second hand stores. More specifically from women's skirts. Once deconstructed they will have large enough pieces that I can bind at least 2 books made of 8 1/2 x 11in. paper. I found this to be very wallet friendly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T14:49:17.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-14T11:55:44.010" Score="6" ViewCount="1134" Body="&lt;h3&gt;What is this about?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to make a scratchboard or scapeboard myself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scratchboard&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scratchboard definition on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scratchboard.org/russhowto/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;More information here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bwclj.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bwclj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My Problem&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WXGN-92VvQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;video from David Rooney&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. He is an illustrator and I would like to build my own scraper board as he does. The problem is that he does not explain how to build the white background board. He says that is a &lt;strong&gt;chalk-covered board&lt;/strong&gt;, but I cannot find it in any shop and I don’t know how to build it. Some websites say that they use a clay board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions thus are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of board should I should use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I find it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What I tried so far&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://makezine.com/projects/diy-scratch-art/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;scratchboard recipe&lt;/a&gt;. Basically the steps are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combine 3 parts of glue, 1 part of water and 1 part of plaster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a thin layer to the wood coat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a thick layer going in one direction and wait about 10 minutes to dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply another thick layer going the other way and let sit to dry completely for 4–8 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand down the plaster until smooth, using a medium-grit sandpaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix together 3 parts black acrylic paint and 1 part dishsoap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply paint/soap mixture using a foam roll brush or just a foam brush. You can use black ink instead but the paint mixture seems to scrape off the easiest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let dry for 8–24 hours before trying to scratch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 1: You can use black ink instead but the paint mixture seems to scrape off the easiest. I think David uses oil ink (indian ink).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 2: I have tried with normal plaster but the color was not completely white. So next time I am going to try adding zinq oxide to the mixture. It is a white pigment to make it less transparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3147" OwnerDisplayName="ChesuCR" LastEditorUserId="3147" LastEditDate="2018-01-14T14:44:49.543" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T02:01:14.227" Title="What to use as the background for a self-made scratchboard (or scrapeboard)?" Tags="|scratch-art|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3793" CreationDate="2018-01-14T20:48:22.357" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufactured boards (from the Wikipedia article):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ampersandart.com/scratchbord.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ampersandart.com/scratchbord.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ampersandart.com/claybord.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ampersandart.com/claybord.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.essdee.co/Scraperboard.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.essdee.co/Scraperboard.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For DIY boards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://jimyarbrough.wordpress.com/2010/08/23/how-to-make-your-own-clayboard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://jimyarbrough.wordpress.com/2010/08/23/how-to-make-your-own-clayboard/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In relation tho the PVA-based scrape board verson:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=554080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=554080&lt;/a&gt;  (see: Greenish Apple 03-26-2009, 02:00 AM)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3148" LastEditorDisplayName="user3216" LastEditDate="2018-02-14T14:14:15.793" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T14:14:15.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-14T21:36:06.870" Score="9" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have arthritis in my hands and the smaller length needles are a little hard to hold onto. Would longer needles help, if they exist? Is there anything else to consider, such as needle material (wood vs. metal vs. plastic) that would make gripping the needles easier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3149" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2018-01-17T22:26:01.570" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T05:43:37.250" Title="What features should I look for in circular knitting needles to make them easier to use with my arthritis?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3797" CreationDate="2018-01-15T03:52:07.050" Score="7" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;My boyfriend has concrete walls surrounding his at home office. He has expressed interest in using the walls as &quot;story boarding&quot; space for future mobile applications. &lt;strong&gt;I'm curious as to what writing utensil would be the very best option for clarity of penmanship on a concrete wall.&lt;/strong&gt; Being able to be washed off after a period of time would be a bonus too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3150" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T13:21:55.350" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T17:21:32.967" Title="What writing utensils would work for concrete walls?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3796" CreationDate="2018-01-15T10:17:33.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When dealing with a concrete surface, the first consideration is the smoothness of the surface. If that is acceptable, and of reasonably decent flatness, your options expand nicely. If it's a coarse surface with lots of pits, cracks and other irregularities, chalk may be the only answer. It's messy and washable, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the surface can be painted, consider to use a dry-erase paint product. I found many with a quick search: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/notable-dry-erase-paint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Benjamin Moore Dry Erase Paint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such products will enable one to use standard office-type dry-erase markers of multiple colors and tip sizes, with easy dry-erase erasers used to remove the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the scope of the use (area of walls to be painted), the biggest disadvantage I see is that the room would be very white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T10:17:33.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2018-01-15T21:17:56.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Longer needs can be helpful for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addi makes a set of interchangeables with 5.5&quot; (approx 14cm) tips (most interchangeables have 5&quot;/12.5cm tips). They are called Rocket Lace Long Tips.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.addineedleshop.com/click_system/lace_click_long.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.addineedleshop.com/click_system/lace_click_long.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the same set on Amazon by searching for &quot;Addi long lace tip circular knitting needles.&quot; Amazon also has these needles in fixed circulars. I would suggest starting with just one fixed circular or one set of tips and a cord before buying the full set to see if half an inch is enough extra length to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3154" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditorDisplayName="user3154" LastEditDate="2018-02-05T21:24:04.897" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T21:24:04.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-16T02:41:51.977" Score="5" ViewCount="1013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ordered rice paper with which to make butterflies. It is so delicate though. Is there a way to coat the back with something like clear gesso and still have the look of translucent water color and airy? Is there another type of paper that might work instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JJMI48/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is the rice paper that I ordered&lt;/a&gt;. It is very thin, delicate and almost like tissue paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPgw8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPgw8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-03T13:36:59.037" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T13:36:59.037" Title="Using Rice Paper" Tags="|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-16T06:15:17.227" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am from India and thinking of starting sketching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beginner I am going to buy 2H, 2B and 4B (I hope that is enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need to know is some inexpensive method/white pencil for highlighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the hard white chalk used for writing on slate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1956" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T23:56:03.953" Title="Inexpensive method for highlighting a sketch" Tags="|sketching|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3802" CreationDate="2018-01-16T17:42:43.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using a white wax crayon or even better a white artists pastel. They are pretty cheap...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I think about it, you should do well to also get a quite soft pencil like a 6b instead of the 4b - because the difference is quite real.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-01-17T07:55:43.600" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T07:55:43.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-16T20:41:41.650" Score="2" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember there being a technique for scribbling on paper (semi-absent-minded-ly), then looking at the scribbles to find shapes and inspiration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of it: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/4JnssoinaUI?t=57s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/4JnssoinaUI?t=57s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot remember what it was called or find any information on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what it might be called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T06:06:59.583" Title="Name for technique of scribbling, then drawing of bits of scribble" Tags="|drawing|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3804" CreationDate="2018-01-16T21:32:41.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you mean is called ‘automatic drawing’ - it was something done by the surrealists, among others André Masson (the pioneer) and André Breton (probably most famous).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit. Then you are probably thinking of the so-called ‘rest-of-the-owl’ technique. Look it up on reddit. Here’s an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAXT5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAXT5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T04:01:15.233" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T04:01:15.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3818" CreationDate="2018-01-17T12:16:24.623" Score="5" ViewCount="3494" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Still working on my costume&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3452/crafting-a-sturdy-not-heavy-mask-for-shows&quot;&gt;Previous question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know a method for crafting fake potion bottles for shows, i want the bottles to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Approximately the size of an apple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resist the pressure of being transported in bags&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resist weaker impacts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't leak any liquid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not considerably heavy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aditional info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't need to be made of real glass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't need to contain real liquid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't pretend to craft the &quot;bottle&quot; itself, but I want to know what may be used to represent it (A light bulb, a medicine bottle, etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visual representation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VslF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VslF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Visual exemple&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;PS.: I'm not sure how to tag it so feel free to edit it&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2603" LastEditorUserId="2603" LastEditDate="2018-01-17T12:23:27.853" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T19:36:11.927" Title="Crafting &quot;fake potions&quot;" Tags="|material-selection|costume-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3807" CreationDate="2018-01-17T15:30:22.383" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a few reasons, I'd go with holiday ornaments. These are available in clear plastic, rather than glass, which is less of a breakage worry. They're also cheaper and lighter than glass jars. And they're already nicely spherical!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSDEwm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSDEwm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clear plastic holiday ornament&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;an example from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michaels.com/25ct-clear-plastic-ornaments-by-artminds/10525253.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Michaels craft store&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ditch the metal collar and ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=add%20color%20to%20casting%20resin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a colored epoxy resin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a decorative cork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of this is that it wouldn't spill. Also, if it does crack from being dropped or struck, the epoxy would hold the pieces together, reducing the chance of injury or mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want the internal liquid to slosh about and look very potion-like, that's also feasible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ditch the metal collar and ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill with colored liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a decorative cork, and glue securely in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That shouldn't spill either, assuming it's well-glued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T15:30:22.383" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2018-01-18T06:01:49.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood needles may be easier for you to grip, as would larger diameter needles.  Bamboo is lighter than metal and most other woods, so that would be a good wood version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One ideas is to knit circular but with several long double-tipped needles, as you would with knitting socks or a hat in the round.  You knit from needle to needle around and around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a source for longer-than-usual (10&quot;) bamboo double-tipped knitting needles, in various diameters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0028P4FYW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/BrilliantKnitting-pointed-knitting-needles-0-10-5/dp/B0028P4FYW&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1798" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T06:01:49.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3801" CreationDate="2018-01-18T11:16:48.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because many types of paper go under the name ‘rice paper’ (pretty much any paper that is thin and semi-transparent) it will be useful to post a close-up picture to determine what type of paper you actually have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve often heard washi (or mulberry paper) being called rice paper. It is thin, semi-transparent, soft - almost cloth-like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxwrw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxwrw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the kind of paper you have consider that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;starch&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;gelatin&lt;/em&gt; is generally used to size paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can also use other transparent adhesive like &lt;em&gt;PVA&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;rabbit skin gluе&lt;/em&gt; (PVA is white but becomes transparent when dry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the less you dilute whatever you chose to use, the stiffer paper you’ll end up with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve seen art stores sell pieces of handmade paper that is thin and semi-transparent, with distinct fibers (like in the image below) but unlike washi they are quite stiff. There is wide variety of textures to choose from. These might work for your project well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4PGj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4PGj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3166" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T11:16:48.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3807" CreationDate="2018-01-18T11:56:28.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for the filling, why not use jelly (Jello/gelatine)? It's available in a wide range of colours (or get plain and use food dye) and won't leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take this idea a bit further: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/q/609/20413&quot;&gt;Bubbles using soda water&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A slightly runny mix (higher water content than usual) so it moves more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use more than one colour, or plain and coloured&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A top layer of clear &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geniuskitchen.com/recipe/brain-gelatin-74582&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;with a little evaporated milk imperfectly mixed in&lt;/a&gt; for a smoking potion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix in phosphorescent dye/paint so it glows in the dark (not fluorescent unless you know there will be UV lights around -- if there is UV, tonic water works well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2018-01-18T14:35:45.773" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T14:35:45.773" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-18T17:56:01.027" Score="4" ViewCount="1382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for hook and loop options that I don't have to sew but are able to stick to different fabrics. I was able to find self adhesive ones but they are only useful for hard surfaces and not fabrics. For fabrics, I read about iron on velcro but I was unable to find any commercial iron on hook and loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May be someone has had any experience with such hook and loops. Moreover, I am looking for these hook and loops to be in coin or dot form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3168" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T06:28:30.957" Title="What are some no sew hook and loop options, able to stick to fabric" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3812" CreationDate="2018-01-18T19:00:25.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience, I can say that self-adhesive products work poorly on fabric. There are options available to you in the form of sew-on hook-and-loop fasteners that you would apply to fabric using liquid glue made for fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search for fabric adhesive resulted in a number of products of varying specifications. Some of the results, in question-and-answer form specific to different products indicated temporary adhesion and permanent adhesion, indicating that you can select the duration of your item's durability in that respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect that appeared in the search results was flexibility listed as a feature. I would be suspect of a product that did not list such a feature as being undesirable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One product which appears well suited to your application is &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00178MNFO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fabric-Tac&lt;/a&gt;, a permanent flexible liquid that lists as being suited for leather, wood and lace. Leather is notoriously difficult to secure, as its flexibility frequently destroys any bond. Fabric-Tac lists at a bit more than eleven US dollars on Amazon for four liquid ounces. It seems like a small amount of product for a large amount of money, but the amount you use is likely to be quite small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've read of iron-on hook-and-loop fasteners, it's possible that they are coated with heat-activated fabric adhesive. One such product is available on Amazon, called &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007POWZPW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Therm O Web SpraynBond Fusible Adhesive Spray&lt;/a&gt;. It is priced lower than the liquid adhesive, but spray applications often results in higher levels of waste due to overspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another search specific to iron-on application resulted in many false leads to coin/dot form, but a few tape and strip versions, almost exclusively Velcro™ brand products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T19:00:25.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3802" CreationDate="2018-01-18T23:56:03.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder what you mean by highlighting a sketch? If you work on a white (or almost white)  paper then the only thing you gonna need is a soft (6b) pencil or even cheaper a regular HB penci to start. But I recommend a 6B.&#xA;If you gonna work on a toned paper or cardboard then be aware that chalk won't work well on graphite. Also a black and a white one will give you a slight blueish cast if mixed. Thereby going with a 6b and leaving the highlights untouched is better. If needed you can use an eraser as a cheating option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3126" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T23:56:03.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-19T11:31:58.053" Score="8" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for fastener options to connect two fabrics and also keep them detachable. I am working on an adjustable knee brace. Small hook and loop (&amp;quot;Velcro&amp;quot;) patches are a good option, but they are difficult to sew on. I have also tried snap buttons that can be easily punched instead of sewing, but they are usually metal or plastic. I want to avoid hard material as falling on the knee while wearing the brace could cause extra damage because of the hard inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I am looking at different options, like self-adhesive hook and loop patches (which I am exploring in another thread). I just wanted to see if there are any other options, like some soft non-metallic snap buttons, maybe silicone-based, that could be used as fasteners, or any other fastener options that could be used. Laces are another option but they tend to open up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3173" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-18T16:42:03.087" LastActivityDate="2023-01-18T16:42:03.087" Title="Fasteners other than Hook and Loop" Tags="|adhesives|sewing|fabric|technique-identification|fasteners|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3778" CreationDate="2018-01-19T21:35:44.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time you dress your loom (put the warp threads on) via the indirect warping method (measure out your warp via a warping mill or board), you don't need to measure out all your warp threads together. If you are doing a project with 160 ends, you can use a warping mill or board to measure out two groups of 80 ends each, and put them on the loom one at a time. Here is a link to a YouTube video that shows a good way to store warp until you are ready to put it on your loom: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ1qNeSYBxs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ1qNeSYBxs&lt;/a&gt; (You can also go to your favorite search engine and search for &quot;how to warp chain&quot; and find similar resources.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A custom made warping board with extra long pegs sounds like it would be a great thing to have, but if you already have a mill or board, measuring out your warp in smaller groups is one way to make do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3154" LastActivityDate="2018-01-19T21:35:44.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2018-01-20T12:40:58.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider using grommets, then lace it up. You can get a grommet kit for about $10.59 which includes grommets. They are really easy to install, and they actually look pretty cool in addition to their functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B076BGJ7KB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076BGJ7KB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1516452247&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=grommet+kit&amp;amp;psc=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3178" LastEditorUserId="3178" LastEditDate="2018-01-20T12:46:08.603" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T12:46:08.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3807" CreationDate="2018-01-20T19:36:11.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;for the bottles consider perfume or liquor bottles for home bottling they come in a wide variety of materials, shapes, and sizes. Make sense toys in the UK has some plastic play potion bottles on various sizes and colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeOpE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeOpE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for a &quot;liquid&quot; gel for gel candles could be a good choice, you will never find a truly lightweight liquid but it looks very realistic and is fairly cheap. it also comes in an infinite variety of colors and transparencies.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u2kAX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u2kAX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can always just put a little paint in the bottle and turn and spin it around until it coats the sides that works for making fake milk bottles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J17ve.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J17ve.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T19:36:11.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3812" CreationDate="2018-01-21T06:28:30.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.industrialwebbing.com/velcro-brand-veltex-loop-fabric/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;velcro loop material as the fabric&lt;/a&gt;? Then you could just use strips of the appropriate Velcro hook material at strategic places to hold it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of ideas that come to mind, if you are ok with puncturing the fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.industrialwebbing.com/knot-buttons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knot buttons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ace bandage clips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001IKCPSQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here are iron on Velcro strips&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T06:28:30.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2018-01-21T14:57:38.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried silicon glue as well. Usually masons and plumbers use it for quick fix solutions. &#xA;Preheating the stones with heat gun also enhances the capability in absorbing the glue and better bonding &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3179" LastEditorUserId="3179" LastEditDate="2018-01-21T15:08:13.007" LastActivityDate="2018-01-21T15:08:13.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-22T01:02:10.243" Score="3" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an odd question, but I get really confused and frustrated when I try to add color to something I draw. I don't ever get any farther than line art because I get confused as to how to add color for things like shading or whatever. Does anyone know a general process or something for how to add color to a picture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3181" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T02:10:57.227" Title="Does anyone know how to add color to a piece of art (paint, ink, art)" Tags="|drawing|painting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3821" CreationDate="2018-01-22T03:45:17.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is to scan your line drawing into a image file for your computer, then use that to experiment with colors on your computer screen where mistakes and poor results can be undone with a mouse click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you find a set of colors which work for your particular drawing, you can either print it out on a color printer, or if you are looking for more authentic, human results, you can brush in the chosen colors on the original canvas, turning your line drawing into a painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several computer programs out which allow you to mimic different brush and paint types on the screen.  I use the free software that came with a Wacom tablet which I bought a bunch of years ago, but I have seen videos for Photoshop and CorelDRAW brushes which look a lot more capable than what I use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T13:21:52.533" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T13:21:52.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-22T16:11:34.763" Score="2" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great example of this is the box art for Metal Gear Solid V: The Definitive Experience (see image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen it used sometimes on movie and video game covers, but never knew the name of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4wk80.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4wk80m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click for larger version&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3187" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T09:27:35.213" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T10:17:08.800" Title="What is the artstyle called where they have the protagonist large and all the other characters within the perimeter of the protagonist?" Tags="|terminology|style-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3029" CreationDate="2018-01-23T01:58:01.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My silver sharper marker undergoes the opposite problem. I would store it tip down and shake it well before you use it. Even though it says you don’t need to, I find it works a little bit better if you do. I also let my sharpie run on the paper for a little bit by lightly pressing the tip on paper. This helped it release a little more of a runny ink. I’m not sure if it will work the oth way around, but it’s worth a shot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T01:58:01.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3827" CreationDate="2018-01-23T15:28:06.967" Score="4" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a piece of pine wood, I want to mount a photograph. I stained the wood with Rustoleum cherry stain. It’s dry now and I am ready to mount the photograph. Do I need to put a layer of paper or lacquer down before the photo? It just occurred to me that the stain may bleed through the picture.  I was just going to adhere the picture and lacquer over the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would it be better to use Mod Podge or a spray lacquer to protect the wood and picture? It is going to have a bottle opener attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T23:04:30.053" Title="Can Rustoleum wood stain bleed through a mounted photograph?" Tags="|preservation|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3826" CreationDate="2018-01-23T16:10:55.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of paper (and more importantly the type of glue you use) the stain will probably attack the paper over a long period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isolating the stain is a good idea, and I can recommend the following approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First give it a solvent-based coat of transparent varnish. This will protect the stain from the outside world and because of its similar composition will bond to it rather well. Let dry. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now give it a water-based coat of transparent varnish, this will enable it to bond with the next two layers. Let dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now use another coat of the water-based varnish and float the photo paper on it. Let dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use one last coat of water-based transparent varnish to encapsulate the photo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hupe0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hupe0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple words of warning: test the water-based varnish to make sure that it doesn’t damage your photo, watch out for bubbles and always ventilate! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T23:04:30.053" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T23:04:30.053" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-24T02:48:37.203" Score="9" ViewCount="2949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a mini cape out of flexible vinyl, like the kind used for window clings. I need to leave light blue, permanent marks on the vinyl that won't peel or flake as the cape is flexed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really prefer a pen or marker of some kind, because I need to make designs that I am not confident I can do with a brush. The designs also need to be quite fine, like 2-3 mm max. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a single type product that would work? Or would I need to use multiple products (application + sealant?). I have no idea what will actually adhere to the vinyl without smearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a prototype of what I'm working on, for context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/p/BeZSsTOHepV/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XMXyO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added bonus, I've found out that the material grabs my finger prints very easily, so preferably the solution will hold up to being wiped down periodically to remove prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T02:10:04.757" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T07:03:18.867" Title="What kind of paint marker will work for flexible vinyl?" Tags="|paint|medium-selection|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3828" CreationDate="2018-01-24T04:38:33.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try with a sharpie or other alcohol based marker. Look for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00006IFEO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;industrial&lt;/a&gt; version. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I wasn’t aware you needed colors, I didn’t recommend posca paint markers, which are acrylic-based and permanent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it sounds like you’re going to need to do is to clean the surface to be painted with rubbing alcohol. The apply a fine mist of plastic primer from a spray can in several light coats. You can usually find them in most automotive shops. Then apply your marker and let dry. Cover with a gloss coat of spray varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last alternative might be colored nail polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T06:02:33.383" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T06:02:33.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3821" CreationDate="2018-01-24T06:25:56.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using watercolors. If you use a pencil the shading will not bleed when you add the water color and it will add a layer of color without erasing your shading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to add shading to colors, just add a tiny bit of black color to the color paint to create a darker shade, giving you shadows within your color drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3194" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T06:25:56.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-25T04:57:47.427" Score="5" ViewCount="5111" Body="&lt;p&gt;An Eddie Bauer down jacket has a rip in the lining which according to the label is polyester.  It's a very thin fabric and it looked reminiscent of nylon but the label is quite clear that the lining is polyester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I am holding the down inside with a couple of pieces of scotch tape but would like to apply a less temporary patch.  Ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;iron on patch?  Maybe an iron even on low would be a bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;duct tape?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;paper tape?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;some special sealant?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;hand-sewn patch?  I am good at sewing on patches but feel unsure about putting even a fine needle into this very fine fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're not there right now, but some day this jacket will need washing.  So ideally the patch would hold up in the wash.  (The label says it is washable with TLC - tender loving care.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: If the following is successful I'll post it as an answer.  I read that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Misty Fuse&lt;/strong&gt; is [a] fusible web product that adheres two layers of fabric together. Misty Fuse performs the same function as other fusible web products but is very sheer, light weight and does not add stiffness or bulk to the layers of fabric joined. Misty Fuse does not have a paper backing. Misty Fuse can be used with very sheer fabrics and &lt;strong&gt;lower temperatures.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what I plan to use.  (I found out about a product called &quot;Tenacious Tape&quot; which according to some Amazon question answerers can't be relied upon to stay put during washing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another update.  I started to feel uncertain about using an iron at all, even on a low setting, so I called Joann Fabrics (which sells a lot of notions) and they recommended Liquid Stitch - extra strength that allows for dry cleaning.  (The regular version allows for washing but not dry cleaning).  So that's my new plan.  Along with a very lightweight black patch with pinked edges, tucked inside the rip.  They said I'll have time after applying the adhesive to position the patch just right before applying pressure for the bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastEditorUserId="2994" LastEditDate="2018-01-27T01:39:09.360" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T17:07:17.060" Title="Patch for a rip in the lining of a down jacket" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2018-01-25T05:06:24.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest fine velcro, or else tiny sew-on plastic snaps, sold for sewing onto underwear garments.  You can buy them in a fabric and notions store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of snaps.  These look like they're probably the metal kind but I couldn't find a picture of the plastic kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYFAV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYFAV.png&quot; alt=&quot;snaps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic will have more give than the old-fashioned metal snaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic snaps are small and quite thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T05:06:24.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3832" CreationDate="2018-01-25T23:57:53.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using a patch of the same type of material that you are sewing onto. use fabric glue around the edges of your patch to give it a stiffness and using the fabric glue around the edge of the hole also.  ( As a footnote did you know that you can use cattails ( aquatic plant that often grows around ponds.) as a suitable type of down stuffing substitute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3204" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T23:57:53.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2018-01-26T00:07:12.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the drill press is a good idea for being able to get the same angular cut or grind on the tool in question I would also suggest getting some needle files. you can usually pick them up at Harbor Freight for a dollar or two if not you might be able to roll up some fine grit sandpaper small enough to where you can get it to  fit the inside diameter of the tool.  and depending on the thickness of the material that you're cutting you might find that a different or slightly different angle cut might last longer and give you a better finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3204" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T00:07:12.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3631" CreationDate="2018-01-26T00:11:17.920" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cardboard tubes and air conditioning duct flexible and or rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3204" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T00:11:17.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3828" CreationDate="2018-01-26T03:54:20.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also the sheets of colored duct tape that you could cut out the design. That should stick and flex with the vinyl. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T03:54:20.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3821" CreationDate="2018-01-26T06:59:08.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that part of what must be understood with adding color are several things. What are you trying to communicate in the art? Do you need color at all to communicate the message? Is a drawing the intended final product or is it the beginnings of a larger project in a different medium? Have you looked for the emotion or psychological meaning portrayed with color? Do you feel an attraction or repulsion to certain colors, and what does that mean to you? If these aren't concrete answers, that is fine. Perhaps, pick a color that you like and use it in a study so you get comfortable with color. I hope that this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T06:59:08.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3832" CreationDate="2018-01-26T21:14:24.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When i worked at a tailor shop, we had single side fusible backing to repair the liners of the tuxedos. It came in black or white, was placed on the inside of the tear, ironed into place and then, if it was a large tear, hand stitched.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;    The easiest thing to do in this situation if you don't need to stock up on this type of product, is to take the jacket to a dry cleaner or tailor shop and get a quote on the repair.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to buy the interfacing, look into Pellon Shape-Flex Interfacing. Instructions are below the image.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZHhH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZHhH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quickly looking online, the example above is the closest thing I can find to what I remember using without actually touching it. It was malleable and had a knit texture to it, this example says woven, so the texture may be different. You'll want to find something that matches your repair fabric. The fabric shop may sell facing by the foot or yard. (editorial - You really do not need an entire bolt unless you're going into the repair business. A little goes a very long way.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions: You only need to cut as much as you need to hide the tear. The facing goes inside the tear, adhesive side touching the lining. Then iron with a press cloth to protect the polyester. As stated above, if it is a large area, it's good to hand stitch the tear for extra security. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a hole, place the facing inside the hole, adhesive side against the lining, then place a small piece of matching fabric over the facing, use a press cloth when ironing. Then hand stitch if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T21:14:24.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-27T04:10:30.100" Score="1" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased an aluminum palette that is enameled on the surface. However upon testing it concentrated watercolors I see it beads severely. I have heard some that use Bar Keeper's Friend (a cleaning product), which acts as a mild abrasive. If baking soda is also a mild abrasive, would it work too? How else would I go about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3074" LastEditorUserId="3074" LastEditDate="2018-01-28T06:38:12.820" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T06:38:12.820" Title="How to prevent beading in aluminum palette" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-28T01:24:53.390" Score="5" ViewCount="1535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked at drawing books many times over my life. I've never been able to draw worth crap. Even when I try to doodle all I can seem to do is make geometric shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I acquired some books on figure drawing. Don't ask me what I was thinking. I can't even draw a cardboard box and I'm buying books on how to draw people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just can't seem to understand the craft. Everyone seems to view it as intuitive. To me, its not. Things in the real world aren't 2-d, they're 3-d objects. I'm not making a 3-d object when I draw, I'm making a bunch of lines on a 2-d piece of paper that will create the optical illusion of being a 3-d object. And yes, shading has been unfathomable to me. I just can't imagine how anyone could figure out where the shadows fall on something. Funny enough I've found sculpting far easier than drawing. Too bad that isn't cheaper to get into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the way I've been trying to learn is getting drawing books and doing what they say. What I make with those doesn't look that great, but at least its recognizable for what it is. I acquired a book on drawing dragons a few years ago, and I did do better than usual with it. Though I lost interest after making 2 drawings (one of a dragon's head, the next being a full dragon, the book has dozens of pictures it wants me to replicate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is this how I should be learning to draw? I rarely draw. Yes, I do art, but I've always favored the written word. Which was mostly because I can't draw worth crap. Written descriptions is the only way I have to give people an idea of what's in my imagination. But back on topic. Is this how you learn to draw? How long does it actually take to get good? I'm old enough now where I don't see the point in trying if its going to take me a decade or two. I'll probably become arthritic before I succeed if that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and I've always had crap dexterity. For me even using a ruler is somewhat of a challenge. I'm lucky I can even write. And when I do, I often have to erase and re-write things just to be legible. Which is why I don't like writing in pen. Pens are bad when you can't complete more than 2 sentences without making a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: I guess I need to elaborate on this. I don't like doing this when there's already so many answers, but oh well. I'm not really looking for a hyper realistic style. I bought two books to help me. One teaches anime style, the other something fairly realistic. I was looking for something in between those. I guess the best way to describe it is low in detail, like a cartoon, but without the exaggeration or odd features (such as characters having chins that end in a sharp point, or having eyes that are taller than they are wide).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is I just don't like the way pencil shading looks. It always ends up too dark and makes the image look...odd. I actually prefer my images without shading. Though that may be because I'm only doing line art so far. The shadows probably wouldn't look so dark if my illustrations weren't all stark white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I don't have a collection of sculptures laying around. I just found things like paper mache easier than drawing when I took that art class in high school. I only drew two 'realistic' pictures that I was proud of. One was using the grid method (over someone's drawing though), and the other was my backpack, which my teacher berated for its lack of color, even though my backpack was pitch black). I ended up dropping art 2 due to her not seeing any of us as even remotely decent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as my art style goes, honestly, I'm fairly happy with it. I think it still looks a bit too cartoony in terms of proportions, but I'm aiming to fix that. And of course the lines are really jagged and not very precise (though that did improve slightly when I started drawing sketch rather than copy paper) Oh, and I'm a fan of traditional animation, so I honestly before a cartoony look anyway. I was mostly looking into drawing superheroes in fact. I may even do my own webcomic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3210" LastEditorDisplayName="user3210" LastEditDate="2018-01-30T01:35:14.403" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T19:54:08.883" Title="Am I going about learning to draw the wrong way?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2018-01-28T02:37:11.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aluminum aspect of the palette has little bearing on the problem describe, but the enamel surface is the biggest concern. Enamel, unless otherwise modified, is going to be smooth and glossy, the worst circumstance for your undesirable water beading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You aren't far off to consider to abrade the surface, but baking soda is not particularly abrasive. It's more likely to dissolve and become useless for the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High grit count sandpaper may be faster and more effective. Consider to look for 400 or 800 or even 1200 grit sandpaper, most often called wet/dry sandpaper. Hardware stores and big box stores will usually stock such products, as will painting stores, but for a higher price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd place the palette in a stream of gently flowing water and scuff the surface of the enamel while keeping the sandpaper wet. The water prevents the sanded material from clogging the grit and may perform other tasks that escape my alleged mind at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be able to angle the palette to a light source and observe the extent of the abrasion while performing the scuffing. Additionally, you can observe how the water beads on the untouched area while flowing over the portions you've sanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T02:37:11.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2018-01-28T02:43:38.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of things you can try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you can mix the concentrated paint on the palette, which is probably how it was intended - if you really have a palette intended for water color and not oil paint. Then wet the brush and use the wet brush to pick up the mixed paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could try to take some 400 grit sandpaper and lightly buff the surface, breaking the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you are using the wrong kind of paint for the palette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T02:43:38.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3861" CreationDate="2018-01-28T13:57:09.780" Score="2" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having trouble getting a gluing process that I like for large surfaces. I need to attach wrapping paper to 4'x8' sheets of plywood. For small paper-to-wood gluing, wood glue works great. For slightly larger regions, up to about 11x17, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Super-77-16-75-fl-oz-Multi-Purpose-Spray-Adhesive-77-24/100067550&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M 77&lt;/a&gt; works great. But at the multiple square feet scale, I find myself getting gaps in my coverage -- it's quite hard to see when the whole surface is covered by the spray -- so when I later cut the wood on a laser cutter, parts of the paper peel away from the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem with the 3M 77 at that scale is the fumes -- just about killed myself with that much spray all at once, even outdoors with good breeze! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using wood glue over an entire sheet-- that experiment ended poorly. An entire bottle of glue barely covered the top quarter of the plywood! So while it seems like I would like some sort of spreadable, visible glue that I could lay down on, I think most of those options are out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my dream world, there's some sort of magic, odorless, 3M 77 blended with spray paint so I can tell when I've got even coverage because the wood changes color when sprayed. I don't think anything like that exists. So... how close can I get to that dream? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T13:59:38.680" Title="What kind of glue to use for **large area** paper to wood that is visible while wet?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2018-01-28T19:47:10.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A product that comes to mind when reading your post is that you may benefit from using contact adhesives, also known as contact cement. Typical solvent based contact cement can be overpowering in non-ventilated areas and more recently water based contact cements have been appearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contact cement works in a manner somewhat reversed to using glue. One applies the adhesive to both surfaces to be bonded and left to dry. This seems counter-intuitive, but I've used it and it works great. It's important to keep the two surfaces separated when joining them, unless you can be assured of perfect alignment (or alignment isn't critical). It's common to spread wax paper between the two surfaces, then align and carefully slide out the wax paper. In some circumstances, with more rigid material such as veneer, wooden dowels (or plastic ones!) are used as separators. For sheets of paper, wax paper remains a better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Using_WaterBased_Contact_Cements.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Using_WaterBased_Contact_Cements.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;contains some other users' experiences with the water based stuff. I had poor results in the past with water based contact adhesives, but after reading the link, I realized that I did not allow sufficient drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've read in my research for this answer is that many of these products change color when dry, making it fit one of your requirements. Also, you may have to invest in a simple sprayer to use the adhesive. Another quick search for &quot;refillable spray can&quot; provides multiple sources, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009IY6IHS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-9-oz-Complete-Spray-Gun-267/202533738&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Home Depot&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiLLc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiLLc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Amazon refillable&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/swFbv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/swFbv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Home Depot refillable&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T19:47:10.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2018-01-29T01:16:08.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I suggest you can draw well? I have not seen anything you have drawn, but based on the way you talk about it, you sound passionate about the arts, and as though you have dedicated a pretty serious amount of time to drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to further bolster your confidence, geometry is an advanced topic. Can I suggest getting some books in that field such as Sacred Geometry by Miranda Lundy, or The Magic Mirror of MC Escher. Tesellations are pretty great and geometry is said to be divine. Though it's true that MC Escher's first works were amazing woodcut prints of landscapes with breathtaking accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess all I'm trying to convey is that I can empathize with your feelings, I've never been talented at drawing elements of mundane reality, and long ago I accepted that, and delved into what I am good at drawing, which is shape, form, and broken substance separate from everyday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I avoided art school because I did not think it was appropriate for people to tell me what to do with regards to my art. The more you are able to build your confidence the better, and more personally pleasing your art will become.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My art is awful, and it is within its imperfection that the beauty lies, look how rough &amp;amp; broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imperfect &gt; Perfect&#xA;In art there are no mistakes.&#xA;To master anything requires about 10,000 hours, or 5 years full time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, you are dead set on learning to render reality a book called Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain by Betty Edwards is said to be a definative reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also recommend this artist's grasp of 3D space. I believe she studied physics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Katy Ann Gilmore&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://instagram.com/p/BeCHgXOBtFx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://instagram.com/p/BeCHgXOBtFx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I call this ink drawing The Hexed Blackheart &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/idiotprovider/status/957784227604439040&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://twitter.com/idiotprovider/status/957784227604439040&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professionally the career of this dullard is in the field of applied mathematics. Programming is hard, but drawing a straight line and having it become appealing to others is a much more difficult science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3178" LastEditorUserId="3178" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T17:24:35.253" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T17:24:35.253" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2018-01-29T10:29:29.157" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Things in the real world aren't 2-d, they're 3-d objects. I'm not&#xA;  making a 3-d object when I draw, I'm making a bunch of lines on a 2-d&#xA;  piece of paper that will create the optical illusion of being a 3-d&#xA;  object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and you are absolutely right. That's what drawing is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to start thinking of 3D objects as 2D I suggest you  &lt;strong&gt;use only one eye&lt;/strong&gt; when you draw or generally examine objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also take pictures of objects and draw from them (with the help of a grid on top, if needed). Or, better, place a grid frame and draw looking through it (this technique was previously used for acquiring accurate perspective, but I think it will work well to get you to think of 3D objects as flat):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B95HU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B95HU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;*try it for smaller drawings though (A4 or A5) and without grid on the actual paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting familiar with the &lt;strong&gt;basics of perspective&lt;/strong&gt; would also help a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where shade falls shouldn’t be too confusing to you if you generally think of objects as 3D. If you don’t get too technical about it, light beams travel straight from the source of light and illuminate the surface they fall right on. The rest is in shade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About sculpture, it is not necessarily an expensive undertaking. You can dig and refine your own clay. Plaster is relatively cheep too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3216" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T10:29:29.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2018-01-29T21:10:04.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as people have different learning styles, different exercises will be &quot;best&quot; for different artists. There are, however, certain concepts that you can focus on that will help you to improve more rapidly. And, as always, you are going to have to practice. Skill doesn't happen overnight, or after two drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right, things in the world are 3D objects. Drawing from books or pictures will only help you learn how to draw 2D images. By drawing from life (even when you think the result is horrible), you are creating a connection between the 3D interpretation of what you see, and the 2D rendering that your hand must make. Eventually these movements feel more natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best recommendation is to take a figure drawing class. (This involves a live model posing, usually nude.) Drawing a living subject immensely improves your ability to render shadow, proportion, perspective, and capture emotion and realism. Plus, it provides a community of artists so you can see what/how other people are drawing and get tips from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As user18849 said, perspective is a great way to start. Books can be good for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another drawing technique is to measure. For example, say I'm drawing a flower pot. By holding my pencil out in front of me, I can measure that the flower height equates to Z amount of my pencil, and the pot equates to Z-times-two. This method, or using a &quot;window&quot; or graph as mentioned in the other answer, can help your brain turn real-life dimensionality into 2D, as well as keep proportion correct. Similarly, to help with angles you can &quot;draw&quot; the angle in the air, and then copy that motion onto your paper. Sounds a little silly, but this actually helps your brain convert from 3D to 2D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learning to see negative space helped me a lot. For example, draw a still life of a chair by drawing everything BUT the chair. Draw the space between the slats, and the opening between the legs. This helps with learning composition as well as grounding and interaction between objects in your drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like drawing from pictures, find some artists you really like and try to copy their work. (Be sure to credit them if you share your work anywhere.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you like drawing geometric shapes, do that! But push yourself - what can you add to the hexagon to make it more interesting? Can you draw a convincing dodecahedron? What if you tessalate the geometric shapes, but change their sizes as you go so that all together they suggest something like a face? (This is good practice for shading/value too!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T21:10:04.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3832" CreationDate="2018-01-29T21:13:08.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound surprising, but check your local outdoor store for repair kits. Many of them sell special tapes for repairing rips in the fine nylon of tents, jackets, etc. These are meant to be durable, washable, and light, and often come in several colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using some kind of fusible or tape product, cut the patch in a circle or oval that is clearly larger than the rip. Corners will often rub and catch on whatever is around the jacket, and will eventually come off or stress the area even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T21:13:08.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2018-01-30T00:45:27.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the saying goes &lt;em&gt;&quot;It takes a thousand hours to learn to       &quot;&lt;/em&gt; so if you sit down and draw for 2hours every day, in 3ish years you will be an accomplished drawer. If you only do half an hour here or there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the sounds of it you are not a &lt;em&gt;natural artist&lt;/em&gt; that doesn't mean you can't persue learning to draw. &gt;when I try to doodle all I can seem to do is make geometric shapes. &#xA;So you naturally draw more like Picasso  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pEqV3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picasso&amp;#39;s weeping woman&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artists/pablo-picasso-1767&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artists/pablo-picasso-1767&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;shading &amp;amp; shadows&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I found drawing from black and white helped me. The simple answer is the shadows go where something blocks the light. So on humans the eyes will likely be in shade because of the forehead, the nose casts a shadow, under the chin/top of the neck. If you have a bright lamp you could shine it on some of your sculptures and see where the shadows are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do suggest you get somewhere to store all your drawings and put the date on them so you can see how far you've come. Embrace that you will have your own style and practice, practice, practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T00:45:27.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-30T01:56:14.523" Score="5" ViewCount="8159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the adjacent image &lt;a href=&quot;https://dailyyarn.tumblr.com/post/40317735722/stunning-id-completely-forgotten-string-art-was&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and want to learn how to make this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ykrHh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ykrHh.png&quot; alt=&quot;String art illustration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3221" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-13T18:18:04.757" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T00:26:08.880" Title="How to make this string art?" Tags="|string|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3855" CreationDate="2018-01-30T04:16:14.957" Score="3" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got an art kit as a gift and have been going through the different art utensils and came across the picture below. I lost the paper which outlined how many of each art tool were given, however I know that the kit is from Artist's Loft, and it is either the 100 or 126 piece set. I think it may be paints but there is already clearly labeled Acrylic and water color paints in tubes. There is also supposed to be oil pastels but I've worked with those before and this pallet doesn't seem to be holding oil pastels...so what is this art and how can I use it and make it pretty? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I think are the oil pastels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXdLR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXdLRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What I think to be the oil pastel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click image to enlarge&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The art in question! What is this and how can I use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nunTl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nunTlm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;What is this?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click image to enlarge&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3135" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:04:11.597" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:04:11.597" Title="What are these colored tabs in my art supply kit?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3854" CreationDate="2018-01-30T16:18:52.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.michaels.com/complete-art-easel-portfolio-set-artists-loft/10435559.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;101-piece set&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.michaels.com/artists-loft-all-media-art-set/10126391.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;126-piece set&lt;/a&gt; doesn't appear to include any supplies that look like those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the product image of the 101-piece set, for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD1qy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD1qy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;101-piece Artist&amp;#39;s Loft set&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This set contains, among other things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;12 oil pastels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;12 soft pastels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;10 watercolor cakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the product image, the &lt;strong&gt;oil pastels&lt;/strong&gt; are likely the items shown leaning in front of the bag in the center, with the blue and white wrappers. They should look and feel kind of like crayons. I've only seen these sold in cylindrical form which also matches with the photograph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead, your first image would be the &lt;strong&gt;soft pastels&lt;/strong&gt;. They usually come in rectangular form, and feel like chalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second image is most likely the &lt;strong&gt;watercolor cakes&lt;/strong&gt;. Although the colors and amount seems to differ from the product page I found, this is the only type that makes sense. The cakes are compressed pigments which you use by adding water (typically by mixing on the palette).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T16:18:52.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2018-01-30T17:32:27.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a heavier paper stock and using the procedures for gluing laminate might work well. Which is contact cement ad a foam paint roller. Spray adhesives, which have to be liquid) are made clear so they do not discolor the paper as they soak into it. For museum mounting I have found it all comes down to lighting and practice t get a even complete coating of normal spray adhesive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T17:32:27.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2018-01-30T22:47:30.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about trying with silk, Alpaca, Mohair, Angora [rabbit] and a whole lot of natural plant fibres? Or synthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3225" LastActivityDate="2018-01-30T22:47:30.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-31T03:54:24.713" Score="2" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy using sanded pastel paper but the paper itself is super expensive so I make my own pastel ground/primer. This is typically apply it to the surface of watercolor paper, mat board, or illustration board to make an abrasive surface for better pastel use. This is a lot less expensive then buying the paper or commercial ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently making the pastel ground/primer using a mixture of gesso, pumice powder, and water. However, I'd like something a little less abrasive. I've gotten a bag of marble dust to try but it just comes out like really thick gesso.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good recipe to make a pastel ground using marble dust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here are a couple of commercial pastel grounds/primers available:&#xA; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/golden-pastel-ground/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dickblick.com/products/golden-pastel-ground/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/art-spectrum-pastel-and-multimedia-primer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dickblick.com/products/art-spectrum-pastel-and-multimedia-primer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastEditorUserId="48" LastEditDate="2018-02-03T13:56:51.507" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T13:56:51.507" Title="Recipe to Make Pastel Ground/Primer with Marble Dust" Tags="|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2018-01-31T11:25:17.870" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you thought about using gelatin? It was pretty common to bind gold-leaf with gelatin. You might also consider using rabbit-skin glue. If you like I can outline the process for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T11:25:17.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2018-01-31T13:59:38.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like quite a similar situation to applying wallpaper. Wallpaper is normally hung with wallpaper adhesive, a thickish paste with a relatively long drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of this is that you can apply it to the paper and let it soak in for a few minutes before attaching the paper to the plywood, which should help ensure you don't miss any bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T13:59:38.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2018-01-31T15:23:57.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm allergic to wool and I knit daily. Bamboo is my favorite but silk, linen, hemp, there are even fibres based on nettles and seaweed. &#xA;I have also knitted cashmere and alpaca with no issues at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3223" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T15:23:57.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3865" CreationDate="2018-01-31T16:04:40.043" Score="2" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a plastic fighter kit, now I want to paint it with an airbrush and some oil colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've got a question : Can I use Lucas oil color for painting plastic kits? Is it permanent after painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My colors :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2JyI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2JyI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lucas oil colours&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3231" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2018-02-01T00:45:52.110" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T14:01:15.983" Title="Can I use Lucas oil colors for painting plastic kits?" Tags="|painting|plastic|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-01-31T17:18:34.050" Score="1" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to stick a piece of card 5&quot; x 4&quot; to the front of a smooth surfaced cardboard guest book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card will need to be a permanent fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best glue to use and how can the job be done? I can't have the glue mark the front of the book or the card warp with the wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3232" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-02-01T11:41:27.023" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T13:29:48.483" Title="What is the best way of sticking card to a book front?" Tags="|adhesives|cardboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3863" CreationDate="2018-01-31T21:41:37.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try, but first you will want to degrease the plastic with a little rubbing alcohol (and prime it). The paint will not dry quickly unless you add a siccative like &lt;strong&gt;China dryer&lt;/strong&gt; to the oil to thin it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I doubt that your airbrush is designed for oil paints. If you do want to risk ruining and clogging it constantly, make sure to really make sure that the thinned paint is free of clots by passing it through a fine meshed filter. You MUST have a moisture trap installed, because otherwise you will be mixing moisture from the air into your oil - which you definitely do not want. Clean everything with acetone and wear a mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, that is not the right kind of paint. There are liquid enamels that are better suited to permanent applications, which you can probably find in the store where you got the model. But as Walrus notes in the comments, water based paints are the better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-02-01T14:01:15.983" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T14:01:15.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3859" CreationDate="2018-01-31T21:53:55.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look into a mixture of gum arabic dissolved in buttermilk, chalk whiting, a bit of almond oil and your marble dust, add your pigment and a drop of clove oil to keep the organic from going off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;500g gum arabic&#xA;1000ml buttermilk&#xA;250g - 500g chalk&#xA;250g - 500g marble dust&#xA;2-5g almond oil&#xA;Pigment&#xA;Clove oil&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring buttermilk in a pot to about 80 degrees Celsius - don’t boil. Whisk in gum arabic until it is dissolved. Remove from heat. Add oils. Add chalk and marble dust until you get the thick paste you are comfortable with. Knead the paste like dough and until pigment is well mixed. Roll into sticks, let dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don’t trust this recipe blindly, because chalk, pigment and gum arabic have different properties depending on purity and chemical composition. You’ll have to use your intuition and experience. You could use water instead of buttermilk. You could sump the chalk and marble in distilled water for 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-02-03T05:02:22.307" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T05:02:22.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3864" CreationDate="2018-02-01T13:29:48.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention the thickness of the card. Thinner stock will be more likely to warp. Regardless, my solution, where glue choice is concerned, would be to use PVA based glues. This can just mean many of the commercial white glues (Just not the ones necessarily marketed to kids or the inexpensive ones). They are good for paper crafts and are economical so can be an easy go to. They can also be forgiving for mistakes because you can just use some soap and water to clean them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have some available some other choices would be cement glue or even something simple like Mod Podge. Careful that the former is vented properly during application before and after (it stinks). The ladder might not hold the test of time depending how you use it but I have plenty of crafting projects still holding up for several years now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as making sure it does not warp I would suggest using an acrylic spray on &lt;em&gt;both sides&lt;/em&gt; of the card. Let that dry before you apply it to the book. That should discourage warping and seepage if the glue ends up being too concentrated in one area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all things like this I would encourage you to test it out before doing something you might not be able to undo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T13:29:48.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2018-02-01T16:24:41.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like every pin/bead is connected to only three opposite.&#xA;So I guess the job is to divide the circle into the number of beads/pins and to connect them using only three strings per each :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPUyg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPUyg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3235" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T16:24:41.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3873" CreationDate="2018-02-01T18:51:02.303" Score="7" ViewCount="1110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought 100 normal popsicle sticks with the idea that I could submerge them in almost boiling water to model them into a viking ship. Before I give it a shot, is there anything I should be aware of? Do popsicle sticks easily splinter? Is there a better alternative for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning on 1 - 3 popsicle sicks for the keel by first shaping them after being in the hot water. Then, I would glue and clap them in position for them to dry. I haven't thought of what I would do with the sides yet, but I will probably clap them in some way to retain the curve then just glue it all together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is this easily possible or should I be going about this differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2623" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T12:00:25.453" Title="Possible to model Viking longboat with Popsicle sticks?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3872" CreationDate="2018-02-01T22:43:06.850" Score="3" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the typical wood types used for Japanese traditional woodblock printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3238" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2018-02-02T03:41:19.867" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T19:14:03.170" Title="What are the typical wood types used for Japanese traditional woodblock printing?" Tags="|wood|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3871" CreationDate="2018-02-02T06:10:58.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Wikipedia's article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodblock_printing_in_Japan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Japanese woodblock printing&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The text or image was first drawn onto thin washi(Japanese paper), then glued face-down onto a plank of close-grained wood, usually cherry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not suitable are open-grained species like oak or ash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3240" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2018-02-02T19:14:03.170" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T19:14:03.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2018-02-02T12:00:25.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the assumption that you're going to try and mimic the clinker-built (that is, overlapping planks) construction of the real thing but not smaller details such as the riveting of planks together with trenails, then &lt;strong&gt;you should be able to use popsicle sticks &lt;em&gt;for the planking&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - as you said you'll want to shape them with hot water (or better, steam) to get the correct shapes.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you'll struggle with popsicle sticks alone are the large, complex shaped timbers like the keel, bow/stern posts and keelson. For these I'd recommend buying some larger pieces of basswood and carving them to shape rather than sticking popsicle sticks together. You may also find it easier to carve the frame timbers from basswood also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNxEf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNxEf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Keelson of a longship&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;For reference, this is a picture of a longship I took last year, showing just how huge the keelson is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I suspect that the popsicle sticks are too brittle to attempt riveting or similar (the wood in viking ships was usually worked green not seasoned), but if you're just glueing them together they may be fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T12:00:25.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2018-02-02T20:17:37.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the string goes through holes in the backing where the pins/beads are so the string also travels on the back side of the pattern which is what allows you to have three strands going to one point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I further suspect that the 'beads' are ball ended pins which also go through the same holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T20:17:37.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2018-02-03T07:43:01.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I crochet with cotton threads from DMC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also look into embroidery and cross-stitch. Cross-stitch can take a long time (especially for big pieces) but are really rewarding. You can pick up kits online that include everything you need for US$20 and less: the pattern chart, all the thread and the cloth. All you need is some scissors and maybe a thimble (I suggest leather) to protect your finger. These kits can be purchased quite cheap (around US$20) and can last up to a year or more depending upon your speed. They should include cotton threads. I suggest starting with a small kit to see if you enjoy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3242" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T07:43:01.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-03T19:13:12.617" Score="4" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came up with an idea for a tool to measure how many heads tall a figure is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is, I don't know how to make the hinges work. What I mean by 'scissor hinge' (I don't know if that's the correct term or not) is a 'hinge' where two long flat pieces (let's just say cardboard for now) have some kind of rotational joint connecting them that let's them move like a pair of scissors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how I can make such a thing. I'm sure that this isn't a new idea, but I'm certain that even if someone is mass producing these, that crafting one myself would be much cheaper. But I don't know how I can make such a hinge out of cheap materials. I mean, I'm building this thing out of cardboard (specifically the cardboard of a cereal box). And the thing will need a lot of these hinges. I estimate probably 31 will be needed. And its not that complicated of a device either. Its more like... a chain of simple devices. Also, this tool will have to be pretty small to make the measurements I need. So that also limits what kinds of materials I could use for the hinges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3245" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T19:17:01.283" Title="Is it possible to make a scissor-like hinge out of cardboard?" Tags="|cardboard|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2018-02-03T19:49:38.100" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brass fasteners can be used to connect two pieces of cardboard so that they rotate about the connected point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAD4L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAD4L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brass fasteners&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the two prongs are sticking straight out, they are pushed through both pieces of cardboard, and then the prongs are flattened out to either side to secure them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3205" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T19:49:38.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2018-02-03T20:03:22.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer for using brass fasteners is quite elegant and there are larger diameter plastic fasteners that work in a similar manner, but if you want &quot;cheap and easy,&quot; consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut two circles of your cardboard to be of say, the diameter of a coin (US $0.25 piece, for example). These are the outer caps. Cut two or three more pieces of a smaller diameter, perhaps US $0.10 sized. Use two or three of the thickness of the pieces to be joined. These are the inner hinge/rotation parts.  If you use two and have two pieces joined, you will have a snug joint. If you use three and have two pieces joined, you will have a looser joint. Glue them together, keeping as careful alignment as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a compass to draw the circles, you'll have a center point to assist the alignment, perhaps using a pin or similar thin item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the last piece to be glued will have to be done after the assembly has been inserted in the joint to pivot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cross-section, those pieces are the shape of a spool or an uppercase &quot;I&quot; (letter &quot;eye&quot;), preventing separation, while allowing rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger the diameter of the inner portion, the more durable they will be, as the forces are spread over a greater surface area, although your design will certainly limit the size. You don't want the portion of the tool to be narrower than the hole diameter, to keep the forces balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IapMT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IapMT.png&quot; alt=&quot;cardboard pivot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2018-02-03T20:16:44.337" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T20:16:44.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2018-02-04T07:28:16.893" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small brass eyelets could be quite durable in this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kwxId.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kwxId.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are sold for card-making and scrapbooking and used to appear on certain kinds of office supplies in very similar applications. They might also be sold at leather crafting outlets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They would require a hole be punched in the cardboard first, for best wear characteristics. Also, how far you set them is critical to getting the right resistance to rotation of the two cardboard pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their use requires a punch and die that would be sold at the same place for a few dollars. It's possible there is a pliers-like version as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T07:28:16.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3893" CreationDate="2018-02-04T15:00:28.203" Score="5" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was referred to this forum from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://lifehacks.stackexchange.com/questions/18139/knitted-material-that-doesnt-little-furry-balls&quot;&gt;Life Hacks forum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface of most of my knitted garments develop little balls of whatever the knitted material is (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pill_(textile)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pilling&lt;/a&gt;).  I own one toque that &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; do this, so I want to understand what kind of material I'm looking at.  The tag is confusing:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qc3UP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qc3UP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hat tag listing materials&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like there are multiple layers, but it's confusingly written and hard to tell what the individual layers are.  Can anyone in the industry decipher this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text on the tag lists the materials as follows (centred, and it is possible that some of the text is line-wrapped):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   100% Acrylic/Acrylique&#xA;     Inner Lining/Entre&#xA;    Doublure: Thinsulate&#xA;     65% Olefine/Olefin&#xA;       35% Polyester&#xA;Lining/Doublure: 100% Nylon&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are photos of the exterior and interior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqcHw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EQUBg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3247" LastEditorUserId="3233" LastEditDate="2018-02-11T19:40:39.163" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T19:40:39.163" Title="Knitted material that doesn't develop little furry balls (pilling)" Tags="|fabric|yarn|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-04T17:41:05.497" Score="2" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a painting with acrylic paint (strong type) on paper. I think it's around 150 g/m², so it is not necessary a paper which is impossible to use for acrylic paintings. I'm using it to make quick paintings without investing too much work, but sometimes a good painting might come out which I'd like to preserve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper tends to warp and roll up after drying, but as far as I can see only in one direction, so there are no bumps and humps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless given the case I wanted to preserve one of these trials, I think I want to fix it onto a straight surface like a cardboard or plywood. I could do it temporarily e.g. using tacks or other piercing stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm interested in good ways to fix it permanently to a stiff and straight substrate without piercing the artwork. Hence it boils down to glueing in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the best substrates and what type of glue should I use?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already made some thoughts of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the properties of the acrylic paint, I think the glue should not ooze through the paper too much, as it may discolor the paint, which is permeable to some degree I think. I think water based glue could work but it may be necessary to press the painting to the substrate for prolonged time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T17:41:05.497" Title="How to deal with warped paper after drying?" Tags="|adhesives|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-02-05T21:24:40.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2018-02-04T19:17:01.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I'd bore a hole of e.g. 4 mm through both cardboards, add polyamide flat washers on top, in the middle and at bottom of the cardboard stack. Then I'd add normal washers on top and bottom and put a blind rivet through the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final sack might look like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      /====   ====\&#xA;    WWWWW||   ||WWWW&#xA;    PPPPP||   ||PPPPP&#xA;CCCCCCCCC||   ||CCCCCCCCCC&#xA;    PPPPP||   ||PPPPP&#xA;CCCCCCCCC||   ||CCCCCCCCCC&#xA;    PPPPP||   ||PPPPP&#xA;    WWWWW||   ||WWWWW&#xA;        //#####\\&#xA;        ||#####||&#xA;        \\#####//&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With C=cardboard, P=polyamide washer, W=metal washer, everything else belongs to the blind rivet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The washers distribute the pressure to a bigger area of the cardboard, the rivet forms the hinge due to its perfectly round shape and the polyamide washers reduce friction so the hinge can move despite the pressure applied by the rivet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all rather inexpensive, except you don't own a rivet gun, but the cheap ones are available for 10 € at amazon and probably for a comparable price at home depot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T19:17:01.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2018-02-05T19:17:11.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood needles would have a little better grip. Using square needles might be helpful if you can get used to the shape. There are only a couple of brands carrying square-shaped wooden circulars that I know of, and they both come from the same manufacturer. Both come in interchangeable or fixed circulars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;KnitPicks Foursquare &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knitpicks.com/cfNeedles/Needle_List.cfm?ID=300313&amp;amp;media=blogpost&amp;amp;utm_source=media&amp;amp;utm_medium=marketing&amp;amp;utm_campaign=blogpost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.knitpicks.com/cfNeedles/Needle_List.cfm?ID=300313&amp;amp;media=blogpost&amp;amp;utm_source=media&amp;amp;utm_medium=marketing&amp;amp;utm_campaign=blogpost&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knitter's Pride Cubics &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0076TFF08&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Knitters-Pride-Cubics-Interchangeable-Needles/dp/B0076TFF08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1517857551&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=knitters+pride+cubics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T19:17:11.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-06T12:53:52.833" Score="4" ViewCount="13305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way you can keep on painting on an oil painting using acrylics? (Other than starting at a new painting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can add something to the acrylic paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know they don't mix well, that's not the question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3256" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2022-02-04T21:20:07.910" LastActivityDate="2022-02-04T21:20:07.910" Title="Is there any way to paint with acrylics over oil?" Tags="|oil-paint|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2018-02-06T13:54:55.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Catija implied, if your oil painting is less than 6 months old you shouldn’t do this. And if the oil paint is impasto (very thick) you should wait up to 18 months before varnishing. A very bad technique that would work is to varnish with a solvent-based varnish, let cure for 72 hours and then overcoat the varnish with a water-based varnish. Then you could theoretically paint with acrylics on top of this, but if your substrate is canvas I can promise you that you will sooner or later see cracking and flaking - especially if the “final” hanging place has humidity swings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last reason why this is not a good approach is that conservators will find it pretty much impossible to restore this kind of work. Basically you are dooming the painting to be more temporary than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don’t you just use oils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T13:54:55.813" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3890" CreationDate="2018-02-06T17:57:15.370" Score="4" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to convert size of the paintings between inches and cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a preferred way to convert between inch and cm in wall art sizing?  I see many online stores where for example &lt;code&gt;8x14 inch&lt;/code&gt; artwork is converted to a metric &lt;code&gt;20x35cm&lt;/code&gt;. Even though &lt;code&gt;14 inch&lt;/code&gt; equals &lt;code&gt;35.56 cm&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which sizing is more accurate - imperial inch, or metric cm? Or is it somewhere in between? Any other advice on converting is highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3258" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T22:10:31.853" Title="Wall art sizing - how to convert between inch and cm?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3889" CreationDate="2018-02-06T18:08:08.780" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are seeing online store references that sell items manufactured for US sales primarily, the inch figures are more likely going to be accurate. The conversion results, for your example, in 35.56 cm, but for marketing purposes, rounding is acceptable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience in metric-following countries, but I would expect the reverse to be true. It is practical to expect a metric-sized frame to be 35 cm, but if it is going to list the imperial measurement, it would list it as 14 inches, rather 13.xx inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If measurements have to be precise for your purposes, ensure that the specifications are clearly listed, or request same from the vendor. I have purchased imperial-based items but required to know the accurate metric dimensions for a project. The vendor in both cases was able to provide more accurate numbers than the marketing copy listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-02-06T18:08:08.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5659" CreationDate="2018-02-08T02:18:42.960" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a paint tray that is made of nylon and would like to know if it is suitable to contain paint and will it be harder to clean after painting?&#xA;(Comparing with paint tray made of plastic and the paint used is either water-based or oil-based paint)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="3262" LastEditDate="2018-02-09T01:39:47.727" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T21:30:56.240" Title="Can I use nylon-made paint tray to contain paints?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3882" CreationDate="2018-02-09T14:01:10.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pilling occurs when shorter fibers work their way out of a yarn and gather on the surface of the fabric. Generally, pilling occurs due to a given fiber's length/strength, the spin/ply rate of the yarn, and the surface abrasion the garment is subjected to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the hat you're posting about, all layers and lining are composed of synthetic fibers. As such, they are &lt;em&gt;extruded&lt;/em&gt; and artificially cut to lengths for processing; longer lengths are generally chosen, though this is not always the case. The yarn itself is also quite finely spun, so any given fiber will span multiple wraps over its length, helping secure it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, synthetics tend to be fairly strong for their weight, especially olefin and nylon, and will resist breaking. When other fibers break, the resulting pieces of the broken fiber are then short enough to easily work their way out of the yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a hat, abrasion is probably pretty low. I do have a knitted hat that I occasionally wear under my bike helmet, and the added friction has caused the hat to pill considerably, when normally hats don't do that as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably also worth noting that this hat has multiple layers. As such, abrasion to the inner surface of the hat will have little impact on the outer surface, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3233" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T14:01:10.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2018-02-09T14:10:18.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also look at the join between the needles and the cable between them. I often find that lower-grade needles have abrupt changes in size between the two, and advancing my stitches onto the right needle sometimes requires significant gripping and pushing. Of course, this is tension-dependent to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On better-designed (and more expensive) circulars, the cable-to-needle join is much smoother, and advancing stitches is considerably easier for me. Whenever possible, try to see and hold the needles before committing to a purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3233" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T14:10:18.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2018-02-09T14:31:42.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's not forget about &lt;strong&gt;Combo Knitting&lt;/strong&gt;!.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In combo knitting, you wrap your purls the &quot;other way&quot;, such that watching yourself purl in the mirror would be identical to the process of a knit stitch. It's kind of hard to conceptualize, but there are some excellent images/videos of combo knitting out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommended: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anniemodesitt.com/knit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Annie Modesitt's combo knitting tutorials&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mary Thomas puts it, it's &quot;the better way to work in Flat Knitting. The resulting fabric is more even and closer in construction.&quot; No more furrows when you do stockinette in flatwork!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3233" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T14:31:42.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="407" CreationDate="2018-02-09T20:06:45.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use transparent gloss paint to coat the stone after painting, it will&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look like polished&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you are very flexible in your choice of colour - the only constraint you have that your colour has be reconcilable with the gloss paint. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3267" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T20:06:45.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2018-02-10T02:11:01.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.everydayhealth.com/rheumatoid-arthritis/living-with/crafting-with-ra/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;everydayhealth.com&lt;/a&gt; has a list of tips on knitting with arthritis. For needles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Occupational therapist Theresa Leto, DHS, an assistant professor of occupational therapy at the University of Findlay in Ohio and a knitter, recommends bamboo knitting needles because they create less friction between needle and yarn. Other options include needles that are modified to prevent your work from slipping off the end, such as circular needles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other tips including warming your hands before working, keeping a looser grip, wearing gloves, and switching between projects to avoid repetitive strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3205" LastActivityDate="2018-02-10T02:11:01.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3823" CreationDate="2018-02-11T17:40:25.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To put it simply, it’s just &lt;em&gt;Yoji Shinkawa’s&lt;/em&gt; way of drawing. It’s something he grew accustomed to, it’s not so much a &lt;strong&gt;style.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T17:40:25.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-12T13:25:40.993" Score="4" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a raincoat made of PVC that I’d like to make some adjustments to: adding more buttons or other ways of attachment (it is full-length but it has buttons only to the knee); adding a string at the bottom (to prevent too much pressure on the last button); and perhaps a pocket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I’m not sure how to treat the material: The acetone from the general glue for rubber would most likely melt it (I've tried it on a similar, if not the same, material before) and if I sew it the PVC would tear easily. The original adjustments seem to be made through some kind of heat-and-pressure process that cannot be duplicated without the proper machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kpFJZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kpFJZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution I came up with was to sew a small patch of cloth on the inside area I want to treat and then treat it like a cloth, but that seems a bit heavy-handed. Does anyone have a better idea?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3216" LastEditorDisplayName="user3216" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T15:54:40.800" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T19:46:16.027" Title="How to make adjustments to a PVC raincoat?" Tags="|medium-selection|plastic|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3914" CreationDate="2018-02-12T14:39:23.437" Score="7" ViewCount="2289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a dress with a strapless bodice and a gathered skirt. I'm designing my own pattern, but for an example it will have a similar shape to &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gKZJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this dress&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From browsing online I've seen that &quot;fancy&quot; strapless dresses sometimes include waist stays. So I'm considering adding one, but I haven't sewn (or worn) something with one before. If the waist stay won't do anything for my dress I'd like to avoid the extra work, but I'm not sure what to check for when I try it on, to tell if it would make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When would I want to use a waist stay? What issues would it help with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T13:50:33.197" Title="When to add a waist stay?" Tags="|sewing|clothing|costume-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3901" CreationDate="2018-02-12T16:22:14.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you head to a camping supply store&#xA; (like REI or Academy ) and pick up some tent repair tape.&#xA; Its usually rip-stop nylon with adhesive on the back.&#xA;It will reinforce the pvc so you can add buttons etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorUserId="3139" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T19:46:16.027" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T19:46:16.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="300" CreationDate="2018-02-13T18:43:29.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed a little spray adhesive from granite counter with full strength dish detergent on a cloth, followed by water on a paper towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastActivityDate="2018-02-13T18:43:29.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2018-02-13T23:48:35.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stay is intended to keep the gathers from moving or shifting when you attach the bodice. I've used stay stitching to keep my gathers in place when attaching a waist band or the ruffle to a hemline. As you can see in the definition below, a stay stitch (or using stay tape) will keep your fabric from moving or distorting when sewing curved areas, bulky fabric i.e. gathers &amp;amp; pleats or even two different types/thicknesses of fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gathers will shift and move around on you; it can be frustrating. Also, you may choose to have more gathers on the back of the skirt like a bustle effect and less in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stay stitching is normally a basting stitch that you sew on curved areas of your fabric pieces. The purpose is to keep your curved areas from &lt;strong&gt;stretching or distorting&lt;/strong&gt;. Its a very easy step but a very important one so you should always do it if your pattern directions call for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from the description of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7yYkmwlfEA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video on how to do a stay stitch&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2018-02-17T19:54:59.587" LastActivityDate="2018-02-17T19:54:59.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3910" CreationDate="2018-02-16T10:46:53.090" Score="-2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this a digital drawing? If yes then in which software I can make this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUQ0g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUQ0g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2174" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T21:56:42.407" Title="Is this a digital drawing?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2018-02-18T21:21:53.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3908" CreationDate="2018-02-17T02:41:02.487" Score="5" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been converting a school bus for several months, and I've driven thousands of 3/4&quot; sheet metal screws with no issue. However, when I try to drive longer screws (3&quot;) through a couple inches of wood and into 14ga steel on the other side, their heads invariably snap off barely after seating in the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using #12x3&quot; sheet metal screws with 5/32&quot; pilot holes. What could the problem be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1740" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T21:51:54.687" Title="Why are longer sheet metal screws snapping on installation?" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3907" CreationDate="2018-02-17T15:38:55.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Torsion strain exceeding screw strength. It's likely that 3&quot; of wood is creating some friction, even though your pilot hole is nominally larger in diameter. You might try a 3/16&quot;ø pilot hole and see if that reduces the amount of torque needed. Deep holes of narrow diameters in soft materials are never perfectly straight so the extra room of a wider pilot hole is a fast and cheap solution. I remember being warned early in my career to pay attention to the screw head type and do not expect the same results when you use a screw gun on a screwhead designed to be turned by hand (as traditional panhead and button head slotted screwheads are). You might also trying lubricating the screws to reduce the torsion load. Beeswax being typical and safe here for both wood and metals. You could expect that even though some heads didn't snap off, that they may do so in service - being under the same stress. You can also use a higher strength screw preferably with a head designed to be power driven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastEditorUserId="3106" LastEditDate="2018-02-17T23:37:47.480" LastActivityDate="2018-02-17T23:37:47.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2018-02-17T15:58:40.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, others have mentioned the three most common styles on the English-speaking internet: Continental, also called German (picking; working yarn in left hand) and English/American (throwing; working yarn in right), and combination knitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a commenter said, there is Portuguese knitting. If you have ever seen somebody knitting while tensioning their working yarn around their neck or from a special pin attached to their clothing, or both if using multiple yarns, this was probably Portuguese knitting. This may be the same as Andean knitting. At least, from the descriptions I read, I think they're the same. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/switch-to-portuguese-knitting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/switch-to-portuguese-knitting/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is Russian (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsy.com/knitting/article/russian-knitting-technique/?_ct=rbew&amp;amp;_ctp=16072&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.craftsy.com/knitting/article/russian-knitting-technique/?_ct=rbew&amp;amp;_ctp=16072&lt;/a&gt;) and Norwegian &#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/05/norwegian-knitting-technique/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/05/norwegian-knitting-technique/&lt;/a&gt;), which seem similar to each other but not quite the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's Lever knitting (also called Irish/Cottage knitting, though some say that's a bit different). I am fascinated by Lever knitting and want to learn to save my arm. I understand it is far more ergonomic. If you've seen someone knitting with one needle under the arm (and probably knitting very fast), this is probably what they're doing. There's supposed to be a way to do this holding circulars, too. I understand this is one of the fastest ways and thus used by a lot of people who knit for a living. For one thing, the knit and purl are supposedly equally easy and therefore tension tends to be better overall. I recommend looking for videos on Lever knitting, as they're as entertaining as they are impressive, but here's a nicely set up webpage with still photos and nice directions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.heartstringsfiberarts.com/leverstyle.shtm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.heartstringsfiberarts.com/leverstyle.shtm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect there are a dozen more ways as well. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3297" LastActivityDate="2018-02-17T15:58:40.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2018-02-18T11:20:57.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently it is a digital painting: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cuded.com/2015/08/sweet-digital-art-by-destinyblue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cuded.com/2015/08/sweet-digital-art-by-destinyblue/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ask the artist which program she uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Photoshop seems to be the preferred program by digital artists (from&#xA;what I've read throughout the internet).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the little experience I have in digital art, I think you can&#xA;achieve such effects by any decent drawing app, too (Autodesk&#xA;ScetchBook, Medibang Paint, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also use other non-digital media to achieve such or similar&#xA;effects, such as gouache/tempera, oil paint, (probably) acrylic (I've&#xA;never painted with acrylic, so I can't tell for sure), etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3299" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T11:20:57.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2018-02-18T14:30:40.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to her FAQ and &lt;a href=&quot;http://fav.me/d5x4z8h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;detailed description&lt;/a&gt; of her working method, she does indeed use Photoshop CS6 and &quot;a little&quot; Paint Tool SAI; she uses a Wacom Intuos Pro 5 for digitizing her drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your information, there are a number of additional widely used software for painting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sketchbook Pro (Win, Mac, industry standard) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Procreate (iOS great brush dynamics) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Krita (free, open source, Win, Linux, Mac) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blender (paint and sculpt at the same time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to be sure that the software you are using is calibrated to your drawing tablet, and that both tablet and software support things like pressure and tilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I use an iPad Pro with Pencil, but you can also use an inexpensive Wacom Bamboo drawing tablet with a computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T21:56:42.407" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T21:56:42.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2018-02-19T20:26:44.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up buying every size wood needles and every length cables from Knitpicks.  I also find that taking breaks and flexing my fingers every 20 mins helps, and applying arnica cream after I’m done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T20:26:44.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-19T23:45:49.233" Score="4" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandfather left me an old Inoxcrom fountain pen that was given to him as a gift. I have been using it as a dip pen to write with, but am hoping to find a converter so I can use it on the go. I am not interested in cartridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find the model of this pen online, and it doesn't seem to fit the standard cartridge/converter size. The reason I say this is because I bought a fountain pen from an old man who hand makes them, and I suspect he sizes them to international cartridge/converter sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos of the pen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xfnm7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xfnm7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nib says Inoxcrom Iridum, ring around barrel says Inoxcrom, Spain written on gold part of lid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nib says Inoxcrom Iridum, ring around barrel says Inoxcrom, Spain written on gold part of lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvZGT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvZGTm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;No logos or symbols on ends of cap or pen&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are no logos or symbols on ends of cap or pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3306" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T22:05:43.310" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T21:21:02.500" Title="What is the correct converter to fit my Inoxcrom fountain pen?" Tags="|ink|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2018-02-20T13:50:33.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I found after researching a bit more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A waist stay is typically made out of a sturdy ribbon (grosgrain or petersham), tacked at the natural waist. The stay should be slightly smaller than the garment dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The purpose of the waist stay is to help carry some of the weight of the garment and lessen the strain on the bodice.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the stay, the dress is held up by the bodice. A heavy skirt will tend to pull the dress downwards, which is not good for strapless styles!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the stay, the dress is &quot;anchored&quot; at the waist (because this is now the tightest part of the dress). The skirt will be secured to the waist, and a boned bodice will also be held up from that point. This lessens the strain on the bodice and zipper (if applicable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can help the garment feel more secure and less likely to fall down. It shouldn't significantly change the fit, but should help for wearing over longer periods of time by making sure the dress stays where it's supposed to and doesn't sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lauramaedesigns.com/2015/08/adding-waist-stay-to-garment-tutorial.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lauramaedesigns.com/2015/08/adding-waist-stay-to-garment-tutorial.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.gorgeousfabrics.com/2012/04/05/the-what-and-why-of-waist-stays/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://blog.gorgeousfabrics.com/2012/04/05/the-what-and-why-of-waist-stays/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lovelyandenough.com/blog/2015/09/waist-stays-and-weddings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.lovelyandenough.com/blog/2015/09/waist-stays-and-weddings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T13:50:33.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-21T00:51:40.180" Score="2" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be printing my own greeting cards in high volumes. I am looking to buy a printer that can handle the high volume and colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of printer do I need for this, an ink-jet or laser style? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both styles are acceptable what are the pros and cons to each? What should I be looking for in a printer to meet my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="231" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-09-05T20:20:29.290" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T20:20:29.290" Title="What type of printer should I use for cardstock?" Tags="|paper|tool-selection|printing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2018-02-21T01:35:25.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is somewhat broad-ranging and is usually discouraged on Stack Exchange forums. Your last question certainly fits that bill. Those answers can be found by searching for reviews of possible candidate printers within your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, you would be seeking a printer with a relatively flat paper path, to prevent jams caused by thicker paper as is typical of greeting card stock. Both ink-jet and laser printers will be found in this form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ink-jet printers will be more expensive for ink (consumables) and have lower throughput ratings than a laser printer. Look for duty cycle information and compare across your budget selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ink-jet printers are usually recognized as having cost-per-page in the range of $0.05 to $0.15 while laser printers can run below $0.05 per page. I would add a reference to this, but the search for that reference generated thousands of links, all of them rather voluminous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not need photograph reproduction of images, a color laser will give you higher production rates due to the page per minute rating of this type o printer. A toner cartridge (four in a color laser) will last much longer than an ink cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, there are bottle-fed inkjet printers that have a flat paper path and low consumable costs. This is accomplished by designing the printer to use stationary high-capacity ink bottles mounted on the housing, feeding the print head with hoses/tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no easy answer to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T01:35:25.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2018-02-21T04:04:46.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laser. Inkjet is just not permanent enough for greeting cards that people will be touching all the time, spilling wine / cake on etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T04:04:46.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3804" CreationDate="2018-02-21T06:06:59.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doodle-art&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing doodle-art was the game, when I was a child, that taught me to draw!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mother called it 'Squiggles'. We would take it in turns to draw the 'squiggle' and to create something from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more artistic way of saying this might be 'doodle-art'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doodles are little scribbles done in the margins of one's exercise book when bored - often very free and creative, for being made when the conscious mind is engaged in something else (a phone call, for example.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you google 'doodle-art' you'll see many examples similar to the one you have given:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=doodle+art&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;oe=UTF-8&amp;amp;hl=en-sg&amp;amp;client=safari&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=doodle+art&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;oe=UTF-8&amp;amp;hl=en-sg&amp;amp;client=safari&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is how to play 'squiggles':&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-play-Squiggles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-play-Squiggles/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T06:06:59.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-02-21T16:39:58.950" Score="4" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a native English speaker, and I would like to know how do you read “1/4 satin”?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it pronounced as one-by-four satin or as one-to-four satin when read out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this use is related to the binding structure of textiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, in the following texts: It is observed that when the weave is changed from 4 / 1 satin to 1 / 4 satin ， the average warp tensions at shedding and beaten-up increase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3313" LastEditorUserId="1997" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T00:01:13.997" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T00:01:13.997" Title="How to read the slash in “1/4 satin”?" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|weaving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2443" CreationDate="2018-02-23T00:00:11.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say no, on a few points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bars in the grill are too far apart .. you will lose all your burning coals once it burns into coke form and starts fragmenting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pot itself is small so has no room for a supply of fresh coal to be raked in to freshen the fire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;punching holes in cast iron to attach the pipe for the air flow is hard due to its brittle nature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;better to make one centred in a larger tray from heavy sheet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pin.it/kulvebm47sxtwi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;suggestions on this board&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T00:00:11.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2443" CreationDate="2018-02-23T04:14:01.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's nearly ideal for a tuyère. You didn't explain how your forced air will enter. If I may, I suggest a tangential opening as the swirling air flow has many benefits for an even burn and economy of fuel. As has been pointed out a steel or brick pan can easily be added. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that liquid slag will drip straight down from the hottest area directly above the grill. Typically the air intake will be &lt;strong&gt;placed to the side&lt;/strong&gt; to allow this slag to pass into the clean-out trap. Usually closed with a sliding or swinging door. A waste pail, often filled with water is placed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main feature of most good tuyères is a shaker or rocker with a handle extending to wherever your standing edge comes out. You'll need to break slag and clinkers which will build up and block the air flow. That's probably only an issue if you're running it full time. You can scrape it with a poker. Make sure your clean-out is easy to operate while hot. Don't make the catch or hinge too fussy that it will get stuck when hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all it's built very similar to most of the portable rivet forges I've had, it should last a lifetime and then some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastEditorUserId="3106" LastEditDate="2018-02-25T20:02:09.107" LastActivityDate="2018-02-25T20:02:09.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3925" CreationDate="2018-02-23T20:17:11.423" Score="2" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a word that means &quot;something that is drawn.&quot; For example, if I have a list of things to be drawn (let us say a rock, a person, a tree, etc), these are all items that I need to draw. Do they have a term in art?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3318" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T08:31:00.700" Title="Is there a word for a thing that is drawn?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3924" CreationDate="2018-02-23T21:16:57.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;subject&quot; .. as in, &quot;I will be drawing three subjects, a rock, a tree ..&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR (reviewing this caused me to think further about other possible answeres)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;i will be drawing three objects, an x, a y, and a z&quot;&#xA;OR&#xA;&quot;I will do a drawing of three objects, an x, a y, and a z&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still cannot think of any single word for a drawn thing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastEditorUserId="3315" LastEditDate="2018-05-25T16:37:18.307" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T16:37:18.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3921" CreationDate="2018-02-23T21:21:43.893" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;it is a fraction or ratio .. 1 out of 4 threads are satin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T21:21:43.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2018-02-23T21:31:52.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if your greeting cards are to look professional you should only proof them whatever printer you have and then have a printer run them on card stock .. you will get the surface finish you specify with no colour fade problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost of printing on an inkjet is prohibitive in volume, laser is more doable, but as already pointed out, the ink is not stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T21:31:52.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3907" CreationDate="2018-02-23T21:51:54.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can use thicker screws and/or coated screws .. here in the EU we have &lt;a href=&quot;http://spax.us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SPAX&lt;/a&gt; .. heh, tough as nails they are! The screws with Torx heads are good as you can drive them hard .. if you use a hammer drill to drive them in you have the advantage of the tapping effect. last point .. If you have access to Robertson head screws .. the ones with the square socket .. you can drive them as hard as a Torx head and they tend to be cheaper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.diffen.com/difference/Hammer_Drill_vs_Impact_Driver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this comparison&lt;/a&gt; of power drivers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T21:51:54.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3889" CreationDate="2018-02-23T22:10:31.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;this link shows a list of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schleiper.com/eshopexpress/series/8430-peacock-ready-made-3d-lijst-esdoorn-fineer-hout?category_id=2081&amp;amp;lang=nl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common sizes for frames&lt;/a&gt; in a Really Good Art Supply shop here in Gent, Belgium, Europe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for example 24x30, 30x30 etc .. measured in centimetres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as for accuracy .. just choose the size that suits the image and the wishes of the client .. measure in whichever units you like ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T22:10:31.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3931" CreationDate="2018-02-24T10:03:24.473" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use photographic reproduction of public domain artwork in the commercial work? Specifically, I was wondering if a printing company can print reproductions of the public domain artwork and deliver prints to both Europe and US? Are there any gotchas to watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of few public domain famous artworks from Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Public domain: &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Van_Gogh_-_Starry_Night_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Van_Gogh_-_Starry_Night_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Public domain in US: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Gustav_Klimt_047.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Gustav_Klimt_047.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3258" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2023-05-14T19:22:50.287" LastActivityDate="2023-05-14T19:22:50.287" Title="Commercial use of public domain pictures" Tags="|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-02-24T18:17:30.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3930" CreationDate="2018-02-24T11:47:11.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on where you are selling and who made the photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Commons:Reuse_of_PD-Art_photographs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Commons:Reuse_of_PD-Art_photographs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular Germany and Norway will be tricky... if you can source the photographs and get the creator of the photograph to license the photo to you, you will be in a good position. This is because even thought the original painting is probably in the public domain, the photographer has their own rights...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-02-24T12:03:09.217" LastActivityDate="2018-02-24T12:03:09.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2018-02-25T03:31:51.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not omit the mighty &lt;strong&gt;Zipper&lt;/strong&gt; from consideration. There are probably more types, materials and variations of these than any other closure device, not all of them needing to be sewn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastActivityDate="2018-02-25T03:31:51.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1889" CreationDate="2018-02-26T14:36:04.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believe there can be an authoritative answer for this question as every trade will use whatever tools work best for them and rename it - no matter what the manufacturer calls it. There is very little innovation among simple hand tools like these other than the materials and the marketing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are obvious differences which do suggest names. For instance the top, left tool has a notch in the blade. This is for round objects like rope, plant stems, etc... in my trade (metalwork) it would be called &quot;3&quot; notched snips&quot;. Snips because the entire length of the material being cut can be accomplished in a single stroke. Shears are designed to cut continuously through long lengths of materials. with multiple strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Identifying the tool by it's capabilities or physical characteristics seems most appropriate. Thus the top, right pair might be called &quot;8cm straight snips&quot; at least, in my trade they would be. The bottom photo are called &quot;tin snips&quot; here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T14:36:04.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3937" CreationDate="2018-02-27T08:47:55.720" Score="5" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur artist and mostly do digital artwork. When I print my works I usually do very limited editions (just one print). I donated some of my printed artwork to a charity auction a year ago and they sold quite well. All I did at that time, to make the prints feel more like an original, was to put my signature on the back (because there already was one on the front that was part of the artwork) and write some additional information, like date and purpose of print, title of the work, serial number and a random personal quote on the back of the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently read that artists should add a certificate of authenticity to an artwork to show the buyer it is an original.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I wondered: &lt;strong&gt;Should I do that too?&lt;/strong&gt; Since I'm a digital artist, there isn't an actual original, and even the one time print is basically just a copy of the digital image, so I'm not sure if it's appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3335" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T20:27:56.187" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T20:27:56.187" Title="Should I add certificates of authenticity to limited prints of my digital artworks?" Tags="|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3936" CreationDate="2018-02-27T09:22:09.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The provenance that a certificate adds, when combined with a bill or contract of sale, is more than just proof that you did it. It is also proof that the holder has a legitimate claim to a legitimate artwork. (Kind of like the idea behind a bearer bond.) This can be useful for insurance claims or for reselling a work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can also be used as a means to show that there is a limit to a production run, such as 1/10. However, it is helpful to have this kind of document co-signed, such as by a gallerist or notary public.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T09:22:09.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3944" CreationDate="2018-02-28T02:10:04.653" Score="4" ViewCount="803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to paint the image below by hand, using oil pastels. This is from period drama (Rustic India, 1800s). The background is simple, yet decorative, the lady is a natural beauty.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The only problem is that the lady is crying. I wish to replace her sad face with a happy one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The image I wish to paint (only the lady should smile):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLknV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLknV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other photos with this same lady, but here she is smiling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjZrz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjZrz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the same lady, smiling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBSo7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBSo7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the same lady, smiling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYfLT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYfLT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the same lady, smiling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJbi4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJbi4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the same lady, smiling&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="3336" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-05T12:28:13.870" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T12:28:13.870" Title="How can I replace an unwanted area in my reference image?" Tags="|painting|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3940" CreationDate="2018-02-28T20:45:17.973" Score="3" ViewCount="6472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of wooden &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=geta&amp;amp;num=30&amp;amp;safe=active&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjAwe2cvcnZAhXN5J8KHSRzBGQQ_AUICygC&amp;amp;biw=1535&amp;amp;bih=779&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;geta&lt;/a&gt; I bought from Tokyo and would like to wear them outside. I tend to scuff all my shoes when I walk, regardless of shoe type, and I would really like to preserve these shoes as best I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.karankoron.com/geta_how_to_attach_rubber.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to an online geta sale website, you can glue rubber to the bottom of the shoe for this purpose&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What types of adhesives / materials would I need to achieve this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the most non-destructive way to do this, assuming I will need to replace the rubber (possibly several times) over time?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T12:27:39.147" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T12:27:39.147" Title="How to apply rubber to wood?" Tags="|adhesives|wood|rubber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3939" CreationDate="2018-02-28T21:37:31.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would want a flexible adhesive, as the rubber soles will have some movement throughout its thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good quality contact cement will bond well with both the rubber and with the wood, as long as you have a clean smooth surface on the wood. The rubber should also be cleaned with a solvent such as denatured alcohol or acetone, to ensure there is no oil or grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, a good quality contact cement will make it difficult to later replace the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves a rather obvious option known as rubber adhesive. This is not to be confused with rubber cement, often used in offices and print shops to bond paper layers. The appearance of both products are similar, but the rubber adhesive products will be thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the adhesives work in a manner similar to contact cement, in that the layers are applied to both surfaces and allowed to become tacky, sometimes even requiring that the adhesive become dry. When placed into contact, the bond is quite strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When removal becomes necessary, it is likely that you will have to sand away the residual adhesive from the wood, or use a solvent that will not damage the finish of the wood. Goo Gone or similar citrus based removal agents may prove useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-02-28T21:37:31.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3942" CreationDate="2018-03-01T09:50:33.220" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWvfy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWvfy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The girl in this picture doesn't look like a &quot;real&quot; girl but she does look &#xA;like a human female without visible defects (improperly placed eye/arm) etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to learn to draw and paint such figures which represent humans or animals but aren't be too realistic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will learning about the number of bones/muscles and their placements be required here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this picture on internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T23:04:21.190" Title="Drawing human or animal bodies which aren't too realistic" Tags="|drawing|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3941" CreationDate="2018-03-01T12:20:34.080" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to draw objects (humans, animals, or whatever) that are stylised (i.e. aren't too realistic) you need to learn how to draw them realistically first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is the same as “learn the rules first in order to know how to break them properly” (sorry for the cliché). You need to understand your subject (what it actually is) in order to reveal it in the way you desire (stylise it). Take a look at what the artists did for &lt;a href=&quot;http://andreasdeja.blogspot.bg/2014/05/deer-development.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the development of the Bambi character&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do it the other way round, as people often go for as it brings quick and somewhat satisfactory results, i.e. chose a style and learn to draw this way (like 'how to draw chibi manga girls'). However, understanding the style and not understanding the subject won’t get you far with your art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3340" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-03-01T23:04:21.190" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T23:04:21.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3939" CreationDate="2018-03-01T12:37:50.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can’t advise you on the glue but I made my own wooden geta a few years ago and I used rubber from an old winter automobile tire. It’s a great material for soles - it hasn’t worn out at all. (I first used the rubber from old sneakers but that just wore out in less than a week). So, that’s something to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3341" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-03-01T23:02:58.133" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T23:02:58.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3938" CreationDate="2018-03-01T15:06:48.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Digital manipulation might still be a good starting point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the digital film footage from each of these episodes, and if you have good video player software, you should be able to move frame by frame through all the views of her face until you find a smiling one where her face is at the same angle and elevation as in the sad picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then capture that screen and digitally cut her face out from it.  Try to place most of your cutout lines midway across zones of relatively featureless, flat skin to make the next &quot;merging&quot; step easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have her happy face floating in an otherwise transparent image, paste it into a copy of the sad picture, scaling it so that it overlaps and thus replaces the unhappy facial features.  You don't have to get the edges perfect.  Focus instead on placing the eyes correctly and getting the scale right.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You aren't trying to produce a refined piece of digital art; just a crude template to guide your manual painting efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are happy with the digital results, you can print it out or paint from the screen image or even use a digital projector to cast the image onto your canvas for tracing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-03-01T15:06:48.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3938" CreationDate="2018-03-04T23:28:59.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're painting by hand and want the first scene but with a happy face just note the subtle elements that make an expression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Her eyebrows are furloughed an not straight and relaxed, the shape of her eyes are not turned up and you can see more of her iris because her eyes are wider than when she's happy.  Obviously you'd want to make her smile instead of frown but also note that when she's happy you can see the apples of her cheeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use the expression in the fifth photo as a guide for changing the expression in the first one since it's not too different but they're all very good smiles. I also like to make the face I want to draw while I'm drawing because you feel all the little differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T23:28:59.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3948" CreationDate="2018-03-06T09:01:53.163" Score="3" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the example of older days when computer graphics didn't exist like Tom and jerry in 50s or hand drawn animation in Paper Flipbook in modern times .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;see &lt;a href=&quot;https://img-9gag-fun.9cache.com/photo/aV3M8NK_460sv.mp4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://img-9gag-fun.9cache.com/photo/aV3M8NK_460sv.mp4&lt;/a&gt; for example &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are animators able to draw the same image in same proportions at same spot over several frames almost flawlessly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;clearly without any aid its not possible to draw the same object on each frame at same place and with correct size and color as the last frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how do they accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3355" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T14:55:41.387" Title="How do animators draw graphics at same place in each frame?" Tags="|drawing|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2018-03-06T14:54:56.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered hook and eye fasteners like on a bra? They're small and thin and would have some fabric under them for additional cushioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3357" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-17T01:55:12.157" LastActivityDate="2023-01-17T01:55:12.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3946" CreationDate="2018-03-06T14:55:41.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be a number of techniques used: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traditional_animation#Animation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Traditional animations&lt;/a&gt; had a complex workflow involving hand-coloured &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xerography&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;xerographed&lt;/a&gt; outlines. Backgrounds were drawn separately and reused (even in multiple films), and individual frames weren't all drawn by the same people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quote from the first link is instructive:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A peg bar is an animation tool used in traditional (cel) animation to keep the drawings in place. The pins in the peg bar match the holes in the paper. It is attached to the animation desk or light table, depending on which is being used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hand-made flipbook could just use a makeshift lightbox with a master outline fixed under individual pages held on pegs or even taped into a precise position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(All links wikipedia, the first in particular is an interesting read)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T14:55:41.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-07T16:43:36.410" Score="3" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to iron our sheets, but it take forever on our regular ironing board. I bought some &quot;cotton ironing board material&quot; at my local fabic store. It seems to be the same type of material used to make ironing board covers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to place the fabric over a 4' folding table. My question is, what exactly is the ironing board material for?  Is it to protect the board or table?  Does the silver material help get the wrinkles out of whatever you are ironing? I can't seem to find any information on the benefit of using the silver material. &#xA;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3365" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T10:22:05.760" Title="Ironing Board Material" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-07T18:02:35.900" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I build a wooden table and put stain on it. After some months I put lacquer on it, which is made for that kind of stain. After two, three weeks I realized that it doesn't really protect anything. When I slightly draw my nails across the surface you could clearly see scratches.&#xA;Therefore I used another lacquer I had left. This was for all kind: Cars, metal and also wood. Now it works, no scratches anymore but instead the surface is sticky. Not much but enough to recognize it after touching the table two, three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone an advice how to get rid of that? Thanks a lot in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2619" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T01:57:36.100" Title="Wooden surface sticky" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2018-03-08T02:17:32.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first read your question, my answer was going to be that your &quot;regular&quot; ironing board has a metal surface in direct contact with the fabric covering. As such, it pulls heat from the iron without providing the benefit to the fabric being ironed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the silver material, it is likely that it reflects the heat energy back toward the iron, also insulating the surface below. There should be some thickness to the silver material providing that insulating capacity. If not, even a thick towel will improve the insulation and protective ability of the silver covering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One listing I found states that the material is one hundred percent cotton, then references an aluminized coating. It cannot be one hundred percent cotton, as aluminum is not cotton, but that is semantics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:17:32.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3955" CreationDate="2018-03-08T14:12:39.290" Score="2" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in sewing a raincoat that looks a bit old fashioned- rubbery, shiny blue. The closest thing I could find was the image I've included. My problem is that I have no idea where to get fabric like this. I've looked locally and online, and I haven't really found exactly what I'm looking for. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwvAb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwvAb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of the raincoat I&amp;#39;d like to make&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3369" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2018-03-19T19:13:43.280" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T19:13:43.280" Title="What materials can I source to make a shiny/rubbery blue raincoat?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3954" CreationDate="2018-03-08T17:01:38.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's strongly likely that you are seeing what I know to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oilcloth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oilcloth&lt;/a&gt;. Per the link, it is close-woven cotton duck or linen cloth with a coating of boiled linseed oil to make it waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using oilcloth as the search term, I found a few locations online for purchase. As your post referenced the blue color, I focused on that specification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oilclothbytheyard.com/products/55-wide-solid-blue-oilcloth-double-sided-fabric&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oilclothbytheyard.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely you'll find other resources as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T17:01:38.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8498" CreationDate="2018-03-08T21:35:21.890" Score="6" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a style of art that I have seen occasionally on wine bottles, but I do not know how to describe it.  Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LIJVw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LIJVw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi Merlot label&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nataliemaclean.com/wine-reviews/robert-mondavi-winery-merlot-2008/7461&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like the name of the style because I would like to commission some pieces in this style, but I just don't yet have the words to describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3370" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-22T07:05:37.463" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T09:27:02.437" Title="How to describe this style of pencil art?" Tags="|drawing|style-identification|illustration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3956" CreationDate="2018-03-09T00:22:44.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a Landscape Illustration, member of the Illustration family in Arts. You can get more information on the related wiki page, although not all members are listed there (it's a big family):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Illustration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Illustration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for an &amp;quot;art style&amp;quot; wording, to describe it for example on a resume or on a commission service offer, I would say &amp;quot;Pen-and-Ink Illustration for Advertising&amp;quot; for example. Can you say with pencil? Sure. But Pen-and-ink is the better term for resumes (&amp;quot;he who draws with ink, will draw with pencil&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a great link for you to dive in, good luck mate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://graphicmama.com/blog/types-of-illustration/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://graphicmama.com/blog/types-of-illustration/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3372" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-22T08:18:25.117" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T08:18:25.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3954" CreationDate="2018-03-09T00:58:23.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is Napa leather, its waterproof like oil cloth, but thinner and ideal for clothes. Napa is sometimes written with 2 P's. Keywords you might want to try to buy it online are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;napa leather, nappa leather, glove leather, sheepskin, artificial leather, synthetic leather, faux leather fabric&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you search &quot;napa leather&quot; on, for example aliexpress dot com, you'll see exactly what you need, and really cheap also. Thickness is important, check that also. I guess less than 0,6mm might be what you need, but it's so inexpensive that you could buy a bit of several different thickness values, and find out what's best for your needs. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3372" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T00:58:23.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3951" CreationDate="2018-03-09T01:57:36.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There can be so many factors, that are not described here, that can lead to your problem. Simple things like, where do you live, is it moist most of the time? There are so many things that could affect lacquer drying. Lacquer takes a long time to dry, how does it smell right now? If it still smells the solvent of the lacquer, then it's not dry. Try putting it on a closed small room with a decent powered dehumidifier, for a couple of days, and see what happens. And until then, don't touch it (finger prints, scratches), no smell it's the best indication that it's dry. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3372" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T01:57:36.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3962" CreationDate="2018-03-09T14:10:23.913" Score="5" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to create different shades with my pencil, but it ended up looking very messy. Would anyone know how to softly transition from light to dark while using only one pencil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3375" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2018-03-26T13:53:49.177" LastActivityDate="2018-03-31T07:32:26.600" Title="How do I do different shades with a gray pencil?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3961" CreationDate="2018-03-09T21:33:13.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try doing &lt;strong&gt;crosshatching&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your &lt;strong&gt;pencil is always sharp&lt;/strong&gt;. [The point of a wooden pencil becomes dull after several strokes, so I suggest using a mechanical pencil instead (HB 0.7 works great).]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don’t smudge&lt;/strong&gt; your strokes. (If you do it unwillingly with the palm of your hand, then put a piece of paper underneath it.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strokes should &lt;strong&gt;follow the shape&lt;/strong&gt; of the object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the stroke &lt;strong&gt;in the same direction&lt;/strong&gt; instead of forwards and backwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply &lt;strong&gt;more or less pressure&lt;/strong&gt; when you make the strokes to achieve&#xA;different shades and if you need an even darker shade, then make a&#xA;crosshatch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the crosshatching &lt;strong&gt;at a slight angle&lt;/strong&gt; (about 20o) and not at 90o&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want some very fine and gradual transition, then make sure your strokes are not too far apart from one a another, and that you rely more on &lt;strong&gt;overlapping several layers of strokes&lt;/strong&gt; rather than relying on pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=cross%20hatching%20composition&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbs=rimg:CTIRYj9JT6XIIjjKKDK-USt53Fm8FCPI82QL-RZV59Iw3_1SEm1BkbDsDsuYBPVQbJwryau2NTq736N6sg8G8XTyODCoSCcooMr5RK3ncEQfk3J7ft-XFKhIJWbwUI8jzZAsRRykmF03UtdsqEgn5FlXn0jDf9BHE_1BShm84V-ioSCYSbUGRsOwOyEVuS1kpQ8zKCKhIJ5gE9VBsnCvIRbQ1KpwkdG14qEglq7Y1Orvfo3hE3hGByCdqp6CoSCayDwbxdPI4MEfMnI5jkwTe0&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj2w9CAi-DZAhUFiywKHU9tCUwQ9C8IGQ&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=542&amp;amp;dpr=1.25#imgrc=Wf6ufvxxS6lBWM:&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some good examples to illustrate my points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3376" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-03-12T11:05:19.297" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T11:05:19.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-10T18:21:54.923" Score="2" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;For colored pencil art, is it better to ink over your initial pencil outline, or just start coloring over your pencil outline? And if I just color over the outline, how can I avoid smudging the lighter colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3377" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T18:54:52.450" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T18:54:52.450" Title="Using colored pencils, is it better to ink the outline, or start coloring over it?" Tags="|drawing|colored-pencils|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3963" CreationDate="2018-03-11T00:48:54.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Color pencil considered as a light to dark application, thus tracing your initial sketch with any dark medium will ruin it (they will be visible beneath your painting, unless you intentionally want to do so like mixed ones) . So in my opinion you definitely  should not do that. Try to keep your pencil sketch as light as possible, barely can be seen. Then start with the lightest color / value and least pressure, continue by lying down darker tones gradually to build up the painting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should preserve the light from the white of the paper or cardboard and you always can go darker but using an eraser will disturb both your pencil marks and the surface texture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3126" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T10:51:21.940" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T10:51:21.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-11T07:08:06.120" Score="4" ViewCount="17041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that adding a small amount of cement to plaster produces a stronger plaster. I’ve also read one report of this failing miserably. Does anyone here have experience with this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3109" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T12:25:36.193" Title="mixing cement with plaster?" Tags="|plaster|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3973" CreationDate="2018-03-11T14:53:46.870" Score="4" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's consider the two following illustrations from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jpl.nasa.gov/galleries/visions-of-the-future&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NASA posters collection&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;N°1&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;N°2&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u5686.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u5686m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration n°1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9HAQW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQ9Vpm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration n°2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click images for larger version&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Would it make sense to state that one of these picture is more abstract, in an artistic meaning, than the other one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If so, which one would be deemed more abstract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Optional) If none of the above makes sense, what would be the best categories to use to distinguish these two styles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3378" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T09:21:04.090" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T20:07:05.543" Title="Which of these pictures is more abstract?" Tags="|terminology|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3965" CreationDate="2018-03-11T18:39:31.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It works well. &lt;strong&gt;Dry mix the cement and plaster first&lt;/strong&gt; - before adding water. Success really depends on what you’re doing with the mix. For instance, are you casting? troweling? With just cement and plaster you have no aggregate, like sand or gravel or binders, fibers, etc... so your structural performance will depend on several other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to strengthen plaster you should first determine the type of strength you require: surface hardness, durability-resistance to abrasion, improved compressive strength or impact resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fibers of polyester, glass, nylon, metals are all added to enhance performance of concrete and all of these work well in plaster. There are plasticizers which improve flow through molds. Not unlike adding manure, straw, horse hair or grain chaff to clay to stucco, adobe and daub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the easiest strengthening additives is plain white glue. Test a small batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastEditorUserId="3106" LastEditDate="2018-03-11T20:55:15.383" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T20:55:15.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3821" CreationDate="2018-03-12T02:10:57.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;pick your color scheme&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. The colors you choose should work aesthetically well together, and will help communicate a certain &quot;mood&quot; or &quot;feeling&quot; in your work. A color wheel (which you can find easily online) can serve as an excellent reference for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some common color schemes used in art include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monochromatic: Use only one hue of color, lightened with white for lighter/brighter highlights&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzOyS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzOyS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://midnighttiger8140.deviantart.com/art/Dragonair-bookmark-base-348841281&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Analogous: Use ~3-5 consecutive hues on the color wheel. Often warmer colors are used for highlights, and cooler hues for shadows.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZoS27.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZoS27.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://midnighttiger8140.deviantart.com/art/Healing-557912999&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Complementary: Use colors opposite each other on the color wheel.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxUig.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qxUig.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://midnighttiger8140.deviantart.com/art/Fisherman-II-629102671&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(All sample artworks are my own, to avoid copyright issues)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find several other color scheme descriptions on Wikipedia (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_scheme&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_scheme&lt;/a&gt;) and in the chart below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtRwg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtRwg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Source: https://www.hairbrained.me/posts/geeking-out-color-schemes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Color Brewer (&lt;a href=&quot;http://colorbrewer2.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://colorbrewer2.org/&lt;/a&gt;) can also provide some really interesting color scheme ideas. (While Color Brewer was designed to produce color schemes for graphs/charts/maps, it can still provide some really neat color scheme ideas that you can use in artwork).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;determine the order in which you apply the colors&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. This depends on the type of coloring medium you're using. For colored pencil, pastels, and water color, you should work from light to dark. For acrylic paint, if you're using opaque colors, it's generally easiest to paint the background first, and work your way to the foreground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also suggest testing the colors you're using first on a scrap sheet of paper (the same type of paper you're using for your final drawing) to make sure you like how they look before you start coloring in your picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I sometimes find it helpful to watch process videos on YouTube to see how other artists use specific types of media to create artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T02:10:57.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3674" CreationDate="2018-03-12T02:32:28.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used iridescent acrylic medium, which contains titanium coated mica flakes (source:&lt;a href=&quot;https://images.utrechtart.com/Content/pdf/experts_archive/history/HS_utrecht_guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://images.utrechtart.com/Content/pdf/experts_archive/history/HS_utrecht_guide.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) for producing a pearl-like shimmer. You can mix it in with other acrylic paints, or apply a thin layer over dry paint. The mica flakes are fine enough such that they don't interfere much with the paint texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T02:32:28.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3965" CreationDate="2018-03-12T11:32:33.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can mix them, as with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gypsum_concrete&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gypsum Concrete&lt;/a&gt;. However, this will increase the water absorption of the concrete. I have personally had better experience with adding sand to plaster, because it hardens faster and has a nice, rough texture when unfinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-03-12T12:25:36.193" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T12:25:36.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3966" CreationDate="2018-03-12T11:49:28.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first one I can clearly distinguish what resembles a sea, boats with people in them rowing, and the planet Saturn. In the second one I can distinguish what resembles a shutter, a disc and other gadgets, plants, drops, etc. Assuming that abstract art does not refer to the visual world, it doesn’t seem that either could be classified as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abstract_art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;abstract&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They clearly are different poster styles, though. I'm not an art historian but the second one seems to me more like a first-half or middle 20th century style poster, whereas the first one seems more like a 21st century style poster or a digital painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3381" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-03-14T16:20:42.077" LastActivityDate="2018-03-14T16:20:42.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3966" CreationDate="2018-03-12T15:51:12.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither of these are abstract, but the second one is definitely moreso than the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first has clearly defined objects and flow; it simply looks like a stylized art piece.  The second one, though it has clearly defined objects, lacks flow and is more open to interpretation.  It has some abstract elements, but overall, it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the term &quot;abstract&quot; is used to define art that does not resemble any other visual references in the world.  It is a bunch of baloney that leaves the viewer to be the one to interpret it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3382" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T15:51:12.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3966" CreationDate="2018-03-12T22:17:22.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither are abstract, #1 is Impressionist and #2 is Cubist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impressionism a la Monet&#xA;Cubism a la Picasso&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T22:17:22.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3976" CreationDate="2018-03-12T23:00:00.990" Score="4" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lovehulten.com/buydatorbox.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Love Hulton&lt;/a&gt;'s amazing work and was especially impressed by the aesthetic of the pearly acrylic front of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lovehulten.com/uploads/3/0/4/8/30489724/a3_orig.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datorbox&lt;/a&gt;. I saw the same material being used for fashioning guitar pickguards but could not find any information on it based on what came to my mind in an attempt to describe it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper name of this type of acrylic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3386" LastEditorUserId="3386" LastEditDate="2018-03-12T23:12:41.900" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T00:03:41.177" Title="What's the name of this type of acrylic?" Tags="|material-selection|plastic|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3975" CreationDate="2018-03-13T00:03:41.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a quick search for &quot;pearlescent acrylic sheet&quot; and it appears there is at least one resource for this type of product. Various contours and colors are available from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acrilex.com/product-category/pearlescent-acrylic-sheet/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acrilex&lt;/a&gt; and they all look quite fabulous!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yOXPl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yOXPl.png&quot; alt=&quot;acrilex sample 01&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uMvWE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uMvWE.png&quot; alt=&quot;acrilex sample 02&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2BBER.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2BBER.png&quot; alt=&quot;acrilex sample 03&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't capture all 44 available patterns and there is at least one that resembles the panel in the photo you've linked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a couple other resources, but the images were not as suitable nor as attractive as these samples. I might have a new resource for my laser cutter now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T00:03:41.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3966" CreationDate="2018-03-13T08:13:32.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that the second example is more abstracted since it is less naturalistic in appearance than the first,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;but that, strictly speaking, neither constitutes the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artspace.com/magazine/art_101/know-your-critics/what_did_clement_greenberg_do-52430&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“formally pure”&lt;/a&gt; definition of abstract art (also known as Non-Objective) in the rubric of Clement Greenberg, the art critic whose writing on the subject was taken as gospel in the heyday of Abstract Expressionism. To summarize, anytime paint on canvas pretends to be anything other than paint on canvas it becomes representational, as opposed to abstract, art. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now this would be a subjective take, but it seems clear to me that the second example is alluding to Russian &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theartstory.org/movement-constructivism.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Constructivism,&lt;/a&gt; a graphical style, embraced in the propaganda of the early Bolsheviks, which proceeded from the precepts of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theartstory.org/movement-suprematism.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Suprematism,&lt;/a&gt; Kazimir Malevich’s school of idealized, geometric abstraction. In contrast, the first example strikes me as not so clearly defined, but the loose brushstrokes certainly suggest an affinity with the &lt;em&gt;plein air&lt;/em&gt; (‘open air’) painting of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theartstory.org/movement-post-impressionism.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Post-Impressionists&lt;/a&gt;—which is an umbrella term to encompass multiple styles in the wake of Impressionism.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the key distinction, in the given examples, is that both constitute abstracted representations of life, as opposed to formally abstract art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3388" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T14:47:10.860" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T14:47:10.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3981" CreationDate="2018-03-16T14:30:43.570" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this black touchpad with a red paint around it, how can I make this black? Does some vinyl exist? Paint? I tried to find some touchpad skins that matched the rest of the laptop, but i couldn't find anything. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugKxM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugKxM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3400" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T12:43:48.027" Title="Plastic paint on laptop" Tags="|drawing|paint|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3982" CreationDate="2018-03-17T09:48:40.390" Score="4" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my friends found a bunch of clay in their basement, still sealed, but outside of the original package. However, I am unable to figure out what kind of clay it is. I've checked the EberhardFaber site, but they no longer seem to sell this specific type, or I simply can't recognize it because it's outside of the original package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Airdry it, it's sat for a day without looking like it'll harden in&#xA;the slightest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bake it for a few minutes on a high temperature, the clay goes runny and melty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bake it for 15 minutes on a lower temperature, the clay also goes slightly goopy. Does not harden after cooling down again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxd5e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxd5e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of the clay&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3403" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T14:58:03.047" Title="Can anybody identify this clay?" Tags="|clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3979" CreationDate="2018-03-17T12:43:48.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use acrylic paint or a carbon fiber vinyl. Not sure on how well the acrylic paint would work, but both myself and my fiance has used the carbon fiber &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3404" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T12:43:48.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3980" CreationDate="2018-03-17T19:42:31.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is non-hardening plasteline, also known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plasticine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastecine&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, although it is labeled as children’s modeling clay, I do not trust it to be non-toxic. Having worked with exactly this product in the past, I did find it to be great when building seals in damming walls of casting molds. If you want it to be harder, you can cool it / freeze it. This will not harden it, as you are only performing a state change in the oils / paraffins that are used to keep the mass malleable. I would be very cautious of overheating it, as you are likely to generate toxic fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T14:58:03.047" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T14:58:03.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3985" CreationDate="2018-03-18T18:01:14.107" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sort of shadowbox frame. I want to print something (a mountainous landscape) so that it's best viewed when the frame leaned back from the observer at 45 degrees. Is stretching (to 200% height) the best way to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a model-prop that will stand up straight (-45deg from the backdrop) in front of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not particularly creative, or close to well-versed in artistic terminology, which is painful when I'm trying to create something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terribly sorry for the bad demo but this is what I'm thinking of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97lBv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97lBv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black is the frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red is the picture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purple is the the prop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orange is a triangle of wood to hold the prop up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And blue is the support for holding the frame up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4408" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T01:24:10.180" Title="Printing to be viewed at 45deg" Tags="|printing|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3986" CreationDate="2018-03-18T19:04:20.333" Score="4" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of glue is ideal for gluing metal to glass? The metal piece is fairly heavy. The glass sheet will lay vertical such that the adhesive will have to contend with gravity (weight of the metal piece).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the possibility of mild handling of the metal piece, which the adhesive would also have to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4407" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T15:00:47.487" Title="Gluing metal to glass" Tags="|adhesives|glass|metal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3983" CreationDate="2018-03-18T19:27:46.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your model is quite clear, although the question is less so. You ask if increasing the height of the image in the background to 200% is the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way for what purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your objective is to maintain an approximation of the original image, the number would not be 200%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that the red line extends below the forward lip of the shadowbox. Your measurement point should begin at the intersection of the orange triangle and the red line. From that point, the correct calculation is to use the square root of two times the original height, presuming the 45° mentioned in the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For angles other than 45° it is necessary to use a bit of trigonometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T19:27:46.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3984" CreationDate="2018-03-18T19:31:58.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A suitable adhesive for metal to glass can be found at the auto parts store. It is common to have inside rear view mirrors to fall from windshields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adhesive is a small tube similar to that in which toothpaste is sold and an activator swab or wipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One must be absolutely certain both surfaces are clean and perfectly flat. Follow the instructions on the packaging and you may get a solid bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have, in the past, had great success with replacing fallen mirrors. The strength of this type of bond is quite impressive. I've also had a failure in two instances, possibly due to poor cleaning and/or poor retention while the adhesive cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can place the glass horizontal while the bond cures, all the better. Expect to use some form of tape for temporary security during the curing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T19:31:58.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3984" CreationDate="2018-03-19T15:00:47.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best glue for glass and metal is UV activated. These &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.panacol.com/kleber-produktgruppen/uv-kleber/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UV activated adhesives&lt;/a&gt; are often used for gluing glass to glass for aquariums. I have successfully used it to glue glass to metal, and I used a blacklight to do it. It’s fast and really strong. You don’t get a second chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Europe you can get it from most glass-cutting or mirror-making craftspeople. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-03-19T15:00:47.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3994" CreationDate="2018-03-19T19:53:58.210" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a &quot;boutonniere&quot; using silk flowers, and was planning to do this by attaching the flower heads to a pin backing. When I searched for &quot;pin blanks&quot; online, I was expecting to find butterfly clutch types, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QM0G1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QM0G1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;butterfly clutch pin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or safety locking bar-style pins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gzue.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gzue.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;locking bar pins&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I also found some described as &quot;coat stick pins&quot;, that look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiAYJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiAYJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lapel pins&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Wear-a-Lapel-Pin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;It appears that&lt;/a&gt; these are a traditional sort of pin which you insert through the buttonhole on the lapel (or just through the fabric, if no buttonhole). I'm not well-versed in men's formal attire, so this has me wondering: &lt;strong&gt;Is there any practical reason to choose this type of pin backing for a lapel pin over the other types, or is it just an aesthetic choice?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T12:16:04.287" Title="What are the advantages of a lapel &quot;coat stick&quot; pin over other pin styles?" Tags="|material-selection|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3993" CreationDate="2018-03-20T11:55:50.707" Score="8" ViewCount="3006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nice set of brushes that I frequently use for painting with acrylics. As I don't want to buy new brushes I would like to use these brushes also for oil. Is there any reason why I cannot use the same brushes for oils and acrylics? Or is it perfectly fine to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2020-06-14T18:27:52.503" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T18:27:52.503" Title="Can I use the same brush for oil and acrylic painting?" Tags="|oil-paint|acrylic-paint|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-20T15:18:45.823" Score="5" ViewCount="2426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a charcoal and pencil drawing. What would be the difference between spraying the paper with workable fixative after applying the charcoal, and laying the pencil over that, or spraying the piece after it's completed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4418" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T10:19:02.240" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T10:19:02.240" Title="When to use a fixative in a drawing with charcoal and pencil?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|charcoal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3990" CreationDate="2018-03-20T15:33:18.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Workable Fixative is meant to &quot;freeze&quot; what work has been completed already. By spraying when the charcoal layer is finished, before beginning the pencil layer, you &quot;fix&quot; the charcoal layer to minimize smudging of it during work on the pencil layer. There may still be some minor smudging or transfer of charcoal in heavier areas, but it will be drastically reduced from what it would be if you did not fix the charcoal before continuing to work. You will no longer be able to erase the charcoal, and you will still be able to add to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no real benefit to choosing to wait until the end, &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; you believe you will be erasing part of the charcoal during work on the pencil layer. The benefit to spraying as you go is better stability of the materials you've already laid down, as you continue to work over the top of them. If you have areas of the charcoal layer that are complete, these can even be fixed before you move on, as charcoal can easily be worked over the top of workable fixatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2018-03-20T15:33:18.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2061" CreationDate="2018-03-20T19:29:28.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A substance called gum sandarac has been used on paper so ink more readily takes to it. Also drafters powder. Check Amazon or Jon Neal Booksellers websites for these products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Myself I’ve found different weights of the top quality Mohawk paper give good results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said treat yourself to a visit to an art and craft store to review the paper that’s easily available. Art paper tends to be separated by the type of media it most readily accept. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jetpens.com also has an excellent series of guides and how tops on fountain pens and paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1377" LastActivityDate="2018-03-20T19:29:28.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3989" CreationDate="2018-03-20T21:37:37.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to keep your brushes clean and dry between uses. Use a mild soap and lukewarm water (marseille soap is my favorite) to clean your brushes after you have used them, whether acrylic or oil. Rinse them in warm water, flick the water out and then dip them in acetone. The acetone will dry out the oils, turps and waters, leaving your brush nice and dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should say however, that not all brushes are created equal and not all surfaces are forgiving. A good rule of thumb is that if the ends of the individual hairs are splitting, you can groom the ends, but sometimes it’s just time to get a new favorite brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T04:46:46.980" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T04:46:46.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3988" CreationDate="2018-03-21T12:16:04.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ones you call coat stick pins have a much longer pin and will therefor stay upright much better than the ones with a shorter pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top kind, with just the short pin and the butterfly clasp will turn around and you will have to position the items on the front in such a way that it can be seen in any position and is likely not suitable for the kind of work you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second kind, the safety pin with or without a locking mechanism, will stay in the position you pin it on. But with only the short length, it is likely to lean away from the fabric you pin it on. This is more a problem with light fabrics and loose clothing, like women often wear, less with mans suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I started out, the third kind, with its longer pin has a much more stable ground for the pin and will allow for less movement of the finished product.&#xA;But still consider the lighter fabrics and possible movement of the garments.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For boutonnieres to be worn on a suit coat, I would personally prefer the last kind.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For a boutonniere to be worn on a shirt, blouse or dress, I would prefer the second kind, the locked safety pin kind, and design the arrangement such that the weight of the flower drops down from the pin, not being above the pin at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T12:16:04.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-21T15:48:55.140" Score="2" ViewCount="3023" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people make custom lamp shade frames so it must be possible. A lot of people suggest wire coat hangers but I think they're too flimsy. It has to be rather sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1336" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T22:44:26.627" Title="How can I create a custom lamp shade frame?" Tags="|metalworking|metal|framing|wire|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2018-03-21T23:53:05.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great way to rescue a stretched out ribbing is by adding rows of shirring elastic to the ribbing (on the inside). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4422" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T23:53:05.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3921" CreationDate="2018-03-21T23:53:14.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be referred to as &quot;1 in 4&quot; satin and refers to the weave pattern.  4/1 satins would be warp faced twills and 1/4 satins would be weft faced twills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://textileschool1.appspot.com/m_fabric/weaving-balanced-and-unbalanced-twill.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://textileschool1.appspot.com/m_fabric/weaving-balanced-and-unbalanced-twill.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pattern image of different twills&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information on this you can read all about it at  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.textileschool.com/articles/125/twill-weaves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.textileschool.com/articles/125/twill-weaves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T23:53:14.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-22T03:25:03.633" Score="4" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frequently I'm finding that my harness needles are too difficult to pull through by hand, and I have to resort to pliers, which means putting down the awl. Slows down the process a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4-5 oz veg-tan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size 4 harness needles (originally I was using size 0, which was even more difficult to pull through)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size 1 Barry King Awl Blade (2.6mm width)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waxed nylon thread (Tandy 1227-02, not sure what thickness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that my thread is too thick, or that the wax is making my needles too sticky, but I'm not really sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the causes of this / what can I try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4423" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T14:03:06.303" Title="What are the common causes for sticky harness needles?" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3999" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-03-22T03:26:43.083" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T03:26:43.083" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T03:26:43.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4000" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-03-22T03:26:43.083" Score="0" Body="Questions related to leatherworking or for working with leather as a material in a project." OwnerUserId="4423" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T16:28:37.943" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T16:28:37.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3995" CreationDate="2018-03-22T13:19:48.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What materials you use depends on the design of the lamp shade you want to make – is it a hanging ceiling lamp, a desk lamp, etc. How sturdy the frame needs to be depends on what material it is supposed to support (paper, wood, glass, plastic, etc.)  For example, if you are making a paper lamp shade, then the coat hanger wire should be fine (like in those &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/50Cm-White-Paper-Lampshade-Classic/dp/B00ORYUDK2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paper lantern lamp shades&lt;/a&gt;). If it needs to support glass or other heavy material, then you may need stronger wire, or whatever you can make a sturdier frame out of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I’ve made a hanging lamp shade out of just skewer sticks and paper, so again, it all depends on what design you have in mind.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4426" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T13:19:48.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="561" CreationDate="2018-03-23T00:10:10.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can, dilute ordinary household bleach 1:10 with water, works a treat, I've done it loads of times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4434" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T00:10:10.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-24T05:21:55.183" Score="6" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been industriously dyeing Easter eggs, but apparently not industriously enough, because the eggs have started to have trouble sinking into the dye - they're just a bit too old at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got to thinking, though: given that I was never intending to eat these eggs anyway — once they're dyed, I blow out and discard the innards, since the dyes I use are not food-safe —, and given that what causes older eggs to start floating in water is that they have a larger air pocket than fresh eggs, then if there were some way to reverse the drying-out that led to that larger air pocket, then the eggs should start sinking better, shouldn't they? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can I soak the eggs in something to &quot;revive&quot; them? (Again, not for eating purposes!) If so, what would work better? Plain water? Salt water? I'm pretty sure vinegar, even highly dilute vinegar, is not the answer, because I've seen what happens if you accidentally leave an egg in the dye overnight. (My dyes contain about 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 cup of water.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this? Did it work? Am I crazy? (Wait, don't answer that last one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T06:14:46.803" Title="Can I soak eggs in something to make them sink into the dye better?" Tags="|dyeing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4003" CreationDate="2018-03-24T06:59:58.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit messy, but tested successfully:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blow out the eggs &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; dyeing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you can fill the floating eggs with the liquid dye and they’ll sink. Of course you need to make sure that the dye flows out of the shells again when taking them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking from experience, this will work best with eggs that have &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could drill a small hole at the wider end use a syringe with a needle and fill the enlarged air pockets (the reason for the floating observed in old eggs) with a suitable liquid like water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T06:59:58.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-27T14:25:30.980" Score="4" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often, some harmful pigments are replaced by a safer 'hue' version. But what exactly is there in this hue colour? Is one supposed to blindly trust the manufacturer on this? There is no specification on the colour tube itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a paint brand named &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kokuyocamlin.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;camlin kokiyo&lt;/a&gt;, but my question is a general one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oaXbi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oaXbim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Se0WE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Se0WEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4449" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T15:02:24.033" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T15:02:24.033" Title="How can I know what chemicals are there in a 'hue', for example viridian hue?" Tags="|painting|pigments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4006" CreationDate="2018-03-27T15:32:21.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than a material safety data sheet (MSDS) or a completely outfitted laboratory and mad science skills, there is generally no way to know for sure what chemicals are actively producing color effects or passively integrated as fillers / extenders / driers. Technically, stores are required to give out manufacturers MSDS upon request. If they don’t, you can report them to the local business bureau. You can also contact the manufacturer; they are required by law to send you MSDS information free of charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good reference work about the general composition of paints is a recent edition of The Artist’s Handbook. There you will find pretty much bleeding edge information about the state of the art in chemical hues etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that is rarely talked about however, is the fact that modern pigments - even technically inert ones like titanium dioxide - undergo a crushing process that creates nano-particle sized pigment components. As is well known, nanoparticles can easily traverse cell walls, and can lead to DNA mutations or simply cell death. This is why I highly recommend never getting any paint on your skin - especially those made from heavy metals like cadmium and lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T15:32:21.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-27T19:49:04.167" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone know how these are made at the gym I think they use a gym but how is it made ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W17su.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W17sum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Badge image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4451" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T14:59:18.283" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T14:59:18.283" Title="How to make plastic badges?" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4008" CreationDate="2018-03-27T20:57:00.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are seeing may have been constructed at the gym, but they would have used a device available to anyone. It's likely called a badge laminating machine or some combination of those terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008KAK5TS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; sells a number of designs encompassing various size capacities.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pr9Oe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pr9Oe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;laminating machine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just one of many available. This particular model has a production restriction in that you cannot produce too many in too short of a period. If you exceed the limit, it's likely the machine will overheat and damage something internally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More expensive models will have higher production capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T20:57:00.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4032" CreationDate="2018-03-27T22:48:44.117" Score="-1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to paint the following by hand (oil pastels)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has this rockstar aura, yet the background can use improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What colors, shapes, etc can I use to make this a rock-star theme painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing too loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a way to enhance the pre-existing cream background?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1tMBe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1tMBe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3336" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T01:42:43.613" Title="Rockstar theme background to enhance hand-drawn Painting" Tags="|color|oil-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-11-29T02:11:52.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-28T04:58:18.350" Score="10" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using U.S. currency to fashion Origami models is wonderful due to the paper's thinness, tensile strength, pleasing texture, and ability to provide sharp creases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the small size of the bills and the fact that you cannot order larger blank sheets (for fairly obvious reasons) prohibits folding larger/more intricate models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone suggest an alternative &quot;paper&quot; (that is to say, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; foil) material that is reasonably priced, available to order in something smaller than a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; press roll, and shares the aforementioned qualities? (Yes, some kinds of parchment come close but, invariably, those I try are too thick and/or provide less-than-satisfactory creases. And I'm not too keen on the watermarks!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4455" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T15:03:55.547" LastActivityDate="2023-09-27T11:52:18.783" Title="What kind of paper can I use in place of U.S. currency for origami?" Tags="|material-selection|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4003" CreationDate="2018-03-28T06:14:46.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so soaking in plain water doesn't &lt;em&gt;hurt&lt;/em&gt;...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXpoF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXpoF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Three containers of dyes, each with one egg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put two eggs into a glass of plain tap water four days ago. Today, I took them out and put them into identical quantities of dye (or, well, as identical as I could get them). The egg that was on the bottom of the glass, i.e. fully submerged under water, is in the blue dye. The other egg from the water, which was mostly submerged four days ago but was starting to show a dry spot by today, is in the green dye. An egg from the same batch that I didn't put into water, just left in the carton at room temperature, is in the orange dye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no measurable difference between blue and green. Orange is definitely sticking up slightly more. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of four days ago, but I think the eggs were sticking up about the same amount as the blue and green, maybe a leeeetle tiny bit less. In other words, the difference is probably due to the soaked eggs not drying out as much as the eggs left in the carton, rather than any re-hydration of the soaked eggs. Probably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Yeah, my experimental method has some holes in it. Sorry. It was kind of spur-of-the-moment.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T06:14:46.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3961" CreationDate="2018-03-28T11:54:24.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to do lighter shade with the help of a pencil, first make sure your pencil is sharp, if not, it will be okay but, the picture will look messy if the tip of the pencil is not sharp. Secondly, hold your pencil and press it slowly on the paper. For darker shade, hold the pencil and press it with a force on the paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4457" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T11:54:24.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-03-28T13:44:40.280" Score="4" ViewCount="14193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have attached 5 balloons together to create a balloon flower and need to stick it up on a wall with a painted surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried putty, tape, glue dots without any success. It will stay on the wall for a few minutes then fall down. Sometimes it will stay up for 15 minutes then fall down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4459" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2018-04-01T16:47:06.153" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T16:47:06.153" Title="How can I attach balloon decorations to a painted wall?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4041" CreationDate="2018-03-28T23:21:45.433" Score="4" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I found these two sections of a tree trunk in the street. So I'm wondering, can they be prepared to be used as some type of rustic stump table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/deNyO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/deNyO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gl9da.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gl9da.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="801" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-09-11T09:43:32.233" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T09:43:32.233" Title="Can these tree trunks be used for a small table?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4019" CreationDate="2018-03-29T10:37:38.513" Score="4" ViewCount="1606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made several toys using acrylic felt and I think the variety and options available in felt is beautiful. Recently I have been more conscious of my impact on the environment and I was wondering if anyone has tried doing &quot;typical felt crafts&quot; (quiet books, toys, fridge magnets etc)  with any other material? The reason I like acrylic felt is mainly due to the vibrant colors and the stiffness of the material. Ecofelt is plastic that has been recycled so I don't want to use that for toys for children and I don't want to use wool either (allergies). Is there any material like cotton (plant based) that can be a replacement for felt? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4463" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:44:28.657" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T17:44:28.657" Title="Eco Friendly Alternative to Felt" Tags="|sewing|fabric|felt|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4017" CreationDate="2018-03-29T12:37:30.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=cotton%20felt&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cotton felt&lt;/a&gt;, there is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?ei=rNy8WqbzIsaUmwXU0pXQAQ&amp;amp;q=hemp%20felt&amp;amp;oq=hemp%20felt&amp;amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l2j0i5i30k1j0i8i30k1.28469.31557.0.32891.10.10.0.0.0.0.184.1276.0j8.8.0..3..0...1.1.64.psy-ab..3.7.1136...0i7i30k1j0i67k1j0i7i10i30k1j0i13k1j0i8i7i30k1.0.YCZTOMDSyt8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hemp felt&lt;/a&gt;. Pretty much anything that has fibres (plants including) could be turned into &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Felt#Manufacturing_methods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;felt&lt;/a&gt;. If you can't find it in the desired colours you can always dye it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4465" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T12:37:30.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4021" CreationDate="2018-03-29T13:44:45.317" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;i was asked to draw an anthropomorphic character for someone, but i'm having trouble drawing it's mouth part from an angle, could there be a guide how to do it properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3375" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T14:45:37.233" Title="i'm having trouble drawing anthropomorphic animal heads" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2021-03-22T11:03:20.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4020" CreationDate="2018-03-29T14:45:37.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you look up &lt;strong&gt;comparative anatomy&lt;/strong&gt;, with regards to the species you are merging (a human and whatever animal/animals you have in mind), and the body part you have problems with (like the jaw, or the skull as a whole, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4467" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T14:45:37.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4025" CreationDate="2018-03-30T06:30:17.203" Score="6" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;What materials can be used to make pictures / paintings, where the colors change as the direction of the sun and hence the angle of incidence of the sun rays hitting the art structure changes? I'm interested in both indoor and outdoor structures and materials.&#xA;I was thinking of cardboard-or-similar material placed as vertically running painted wedges, but I'm not sure if that would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4464" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T09:08:02.963" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T09:08:02.963" Title="Materials for pictures that change with the direction of sunlight" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4024" CreationDate="2018-03-30T21:37:32.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are looking for are called “chameleon paints”, but I cannot recommend you use cardboard. It is better to suited to non-flexible surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.urekem-paints.com/chameleon-car-paint-colors&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;chameleon car paint&lt;/a&gt; or search on amazon for it. Most automotive shops should stock it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option might be to look for iridescent paints, but they just get a bit shinier depending on the angle that light bounces off the surface into your eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T21:37:32.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4015" CreationDate="2018-03-31T02:31:35.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Previously, I was attaching tape, glue dots, etc directly to the balloons and pressing them onto the wall. That failed. After a lot of experimenting, I discovered if I attach a size 160 balloon to the balloon flower and used coloured electrical plastic tape, it stayed on the wall for over 4 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details on what I did:&#xA;I cut a size 160 balloon and attached it to the balloon flower by wrapping it around the balloon flower a few times. After attaching the 160 balloon to the balloon flower, I attached the tape onto the end of the 160 balloon, then I attached that part to the wall by pressing on the tape against the wall. I also made sure there was not a lot of tension between the end of the 160 balloon where it had the tape attached and the wall itself so the tape would not be pulled off the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attached photos shows what I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwowe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Balloon Flower on the wall&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwowe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBewl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBewl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Size 160 balloon attached to balloon flower and taped to the wall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4459" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-03-31T13:52:21.190" LastActivityDate="2018-03-31T13:52:21.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4029" CreationDate="2018-03-31T07:09:36.563" Score="7" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am familiar with slip casting. However, I've never seen it done with something that was completely solid before. I've only seen it done with varying wall thicknesses for things like vases. Could it be done with slip casting? Or could it be done by smashing clay with plaster molds and removing the flash? I need the piece to be solid, because I want to put a hole in the bottom of it to mount it on a sculpture base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4470" LastActivityDate="2018-03-31T10:51:59.383" Title="Is there a way to cast solid ceramics?" Tags="|ceramics|clay|pottery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4027" CreationDate="2018-03-31T10:51:59.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want to do is to make &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_clay&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;paper clay.&lt;/a&gt; Basically, you shred toilet paper (cheaper the better) in warm water and use a paint mixer on your drill to make it into pulp. Then add the slip and beat again. Let sump for 24 hours, then place piles of it on slabs to dry. Wedge as usual, and get to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This material will change the way you work with clay. It can be solid, because the airpockets that would otherwise explode are used up in the combustion of the fibers. Mounting bone-dry to wet pieces is now possible. Casting works too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-03-31T10:51:59.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-02T03:19:07.600" Score="1" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got comments saying that the pose is flat and the form has no shape and that I should draw simple 3D shapes. I don't understand what they mean by form having no shape or pose being flat. Here is my finished drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hhq3Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hhq3Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Newborn Baby Asleep&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I have drawn simple 3D shapes before. Trouble comes when I try to both shade and color. If I just color, like I did here, I can get the color to be perfect. If I just shade I can get the shadows to be perfect. But both and trouble arises, for me at least because then it leads to all these questions of &quot;Where is the light most intense? Does what I am drawing even have a reflective surface? Are there multiple shadows from multiple lights?&quot; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I don't have a large set of high quality colored pencils such as Prismacolor to settle the shading + coloring issue. All I have for drawing with pencils is the colored pencils you would get from a store + lots of HB or no. 2 pencils and 1 2B pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah, I would either be putting graphite on top of color or color on top of graphite, not many options. This is primarily why I have gone with drawing it as though whatever I am drawing is at the subsolar point of a planet and thus has no shadow(really, Lahina noon which only occurs in the tropics = no shadow because the sun is directly overhead). No shadow = no worries about which way to layer the color and graphite and in what direction or if there is more than one of them which is great for me because this shading + color gives me much more trouble than either shading or color alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, it isn't worth it to go through all that trouble related to shadows unless I am doing a 100% graphite drawing where I know I can get it to look right(which clearly, I am not doing). And likewise, if I am doing a realistic drawing, I don't think it is worth it doing 100% graphite. Grayscale just does not look realistic to me at all, regardless of shading, especially for humans. No real human is black, white, and shades of gray all over their body, so no reason to go 100% graphite in my opinion. Sure, to someone completely colorblind, they couldn't tell the difference but I know no one with such condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also got comments about using proko to learn how to draw humans. I don't see how that will help with newborns. Pregnant maybe but newborn? I think that is unlikely since all of proko is designed for drawing adults, not babies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, how can I improve my drawing method for babies and potentially all humans? Here it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find reference image&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to draw as close as possible in pose to the image&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press lightly for pale skin, hard for dark skin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add pink, particularly for pale skinned babies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally add hair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1121" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T13:31:20.830" Title="Drawing a newborn baby" Tags="|drawing|paper|colored-pencils|pencils|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2018-04-03T00:31:04.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're drawing for a hobby, some tips for beginners can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finearttips.com/2010/01/photo-realistic-graphite-drawing-tips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsy.com/art/article/5-graphite-drawing-tips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you can improve your drawing by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drawing newborn baby anatomy - I found a cute example for you &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=baby%20gesture%20drawing&amp;amp;client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjxpvCB7JzaAhWIuY8KHcSbA1IQ_AUIESgB&amp;amp;biw=600&amp;amp;bih=1024#imgrc=ciQUhC1eaXwjgM:&amp;amp;isa=y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://img.scoop.it/Ae07GlbV9b7qnbh1ZGVUVDl72eJkfbmt4t8yenImKBVvK0kTmF0xjctABnaLJIm9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Control your drawing. You can practice some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=baby%20gesture%20drawing&amp;amp;client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjxpvCB7JzaAhWIuY8KHcSbA1IQ_AUIESgB&amp;amp;biw=600&amp;amp;bih=1024&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;baby gesture drawing&lt;/a&gt;, and add light and shadow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/-VIVBkvqdNk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an expert tutorial: press hard for dark skin tones and lightly for pale skin tones while coloring; only mix colors by coloring the drawing layer by layer; different shadows, tones, and highlights will yield a better result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find many references by searching for 'baby portrait', 'cupid painting', and similar terms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A newborn baby &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=newborn%20baby%20drawing&amp;amp;client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;prmd=ivn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjAoYnL7pzaAhUDNo8KHUzxDI8Q_AUIESgB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;is similar to&lt;/a&gt; a sleeping baby in appearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=Ec3CWtfyJoTwvgTSlYWACw&amp;amp;q=cupid%20painting&amp;amp;oq=cupid%20p&amp;amp;gs_l=mobile-gws-img.1.2.0l2j0i67j0l2.3713.7070..8916...0....130.672.6j2..........1..mobile-gws-wiz-img.......41.2XxvN%2BGcNN0%3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cupid painting&lt;/a&gt; has a long history and references can be found easily for many styles and periods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a long way to go to become a realistic artist, but if you seriously want to be an artist, you can find short courses or even follow higher education in fine arts to enhance your skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good luck!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2564" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-25T13:31:20.830" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T13:31:20.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2018-04-03T01:22:26.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used pencil, oil pastel, marker, pen &amp;amp; color pencil to design an artwork relate to this kind of stuff before, it is a good result. It like Rock n roll, urban, entertainment, graffiti kind of feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sketch some rock graffiti on other paper first based on something look like these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=SNHCWtu8H8nlvAT0xI7oAw&amp;amp;q=graffiti+rock&amp;amp;oq=graffiti+roc&amp;amp;gs_l=mobile-gws-img.1.0.0l5.12575.14613..16360...0....1094.1522.1j1j1j7-1..........1..mobile-gws-wiz-img.......0i67.IFKQLivuacU%3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=SNHCWtu8H8nlvAT0xI7oAw&amp;amp;q=graffiti+rock&amp;amp;oq=graffiti+roc&amp;amp;gs_l=mobile-gws-img.1.0.0l5.12575.14613..16360...0....1094.1522.1j1j1j7-1..........1..mobile-gws-wiz-img.......0i67.IFKQLivuacU%3D&lt;/a&gt; and have some hand-drawn sketches like these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;biw=600&amp;amp;bih=1024&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=ANLCWqC_G4PwvgSU_KPgAw&amp;amp;q=rock+n+roll+graphic+design&amp;amp;oq=rock+n+roll+gra&amp;amp;gs_l=mobile-gws-img.1.4.0l5.3091.10471..12268...0....131.796.4j4..........1..mobile-gws-wiz-img.......41.UTMv%2FOlbh2Y%3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;biw=600&amp;amp;bih=1024&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=ANLCWqC_G4PwvgSU_KPgAw&amp;amp;q=rock+n+roll+graphic+design&amp;amp;oq=rock+n+roll+gra&amp;amp;gs_l=mobile-gws-img.1.4.0l5.3091.10471..12268...0....131.796.4j4..........1..mobile-gws-wiz-img.......41.UTMv%2FOlbh2Y%3D&lt;/a&gt; have some splash &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=splash&amp;amp;client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;prmd=ivmn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjBjqmW9JzaAhVHNo8KHZktC5QQ_AUIESgB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=splash&amp;amp;client=tablet-android-samsung&amp;amp;prmd=ivmn&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjBjqmW9JzaAhVHNo8KHZktC5QQ_AUIESgB&lt;/a&gt; below the conner like vignette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Firstly, Have an original back up. Secondly, and add some your designed graffiti and design using black color pencil  as finalize, add oil pastel coloring the graffiti and design in empty Background or behind the man. Have some splash below the conner.&lt;/strong&gt; Remember the face, portait remain clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have a proffessional rock star poster design result now. This is tips related to Designers, Graphic Design, Advertising Design,  Multimedia Design, Digital and Traditional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;~ Another option is use Copic liner black pen, Copic makers or Pen &amp;amp; Makers. &#xA;~ Most proffessional result be the same as industry, is to use software to design.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2564" LastEditorUserId="2564" LastEditDate="2018-04-03T01:42:43.613" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T01:42:43.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3823" CreationDate="2018-04-03T09:23:02.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Images of this style often appear in advertisment, Propaganda and to some degree religion. Basically this style is employed to promote an Idea or a Person. You might want to look at Keywords like 'Heroic Realism' 'Social Realism' which describe the style of Painting employed in 20th century Dictatorships - especially for propaganda (search phrases 'Soviet Propaganda', 'Heroic Realism propaganda')&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early examples of this style appear already frequently in Religious paintings of the early and high middle ages and can be found in every epoch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think it is not possible to name a specific style of paintings as what you are looking for is more of a compositional technique to highlight the importance or power of something or someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T09:23:02.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4035" CreationDate="2018-04-03T11:30:07.627" Score="0" ViewCount="2548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope I chose the right SE site for this question and it is not too general, but I'm having a hard time to approach this question and I did not find any better place to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to identify what it is about the Hobbit Holes, as seen in Peter Jackson's films, that makes them look so extremely cosy, but I have almost no knowledge about interior design or design in general, and I'm struggling to identify the key concepts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I looked at a whole bunch of screenshots from the movies, like the two examples below, but I did not manage to extract the design concepts from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FxTEj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FxTEj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Ttqd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Ttqd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also searched for concept art (which I were also willing to pay for) in the hope to get some more info from the designers (I was looking for John Howe, Alan Lee and Ted Nasmith, did I miss someone?), but the artbooks seem to feature mostly creatures and/or weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also Tolkien himself seems to know how to create a cosy-feeling description, but I can't tell what exactly makes this feel cosy either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;It had a perfectly round door like a porthole, painted green, with a shiny yellow brass knob in the exact middle. The door opened on to a tube-shaped hall like a tunnel: a very comfortable tunnel without smoke, with panelled walls and floors tiled and carpeted, provided with polished chairs, and lots and lots of pegs for hats and coats--the hobbit was fond of visitors. The tunnel wound on and on, going fairly but not quite straight into the side of the hill--The Hill, as all the people for many miles round called it--and many little round doors opened out of it, first on one side and then on another. No going upstairs for the hobbit: bedrooms, bathrooms, cellars, pantries (lots of these), wardrobes (he had whole rooms devoted to clothes), kitchens, dining-rooms, all were on the same floor, and indeed on the same passage. The best rooms were all on the lefthand side (going in), for these were the only ones to have windows, deep-set round windows looking over his garden and meadows beyond, sloping down to the river.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nonetheless, I would assume that people who know how to create such cosy interiors, have, besides the talent and intuition I lack, a bunch of concepts that are articulable and not a professional secret. I just don't manage to extract them from the pictures and descriptions, while there are other places, which are not Hobbit Holes, but are clearly built in the same style. I think those two below are from the Green Dragon Inn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPuea.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPuea.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5WbdZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5WbdZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, those places use a lot of wood, light and dark brown tones in general, have a cave-like shape, feature a lot of small details and ornamentations and so on. But this knowledge is not enough, at least for me, to imagine how I could adapt the style to create something on my own. And by creating I do not necessarily mean a physical creation, so far I would be satisfied, if I were able to look at a place and to have just an idea of how this place could look using this style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4482" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T13:39:56.540" Title="What makes the Hobbit Holes look so cosy?" Tags="|technique-identification|material-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2018-04-23T14:53:17.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2018-04-03T13:33:41.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that “cosy” is a subjective term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would describe the style as ‘&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiquehomestyle.com/styles/rustic.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rustic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ’.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d assume the cosiness you have in mind has to do with the lack of sharp edges; the soft warm colours of the furniture and walls; the scattered, dim soft and warm light; the wood (apart for the warm colour it keeps warmth in and does not resound as much as other materials); overall natural materials; all the little things scattered around, which seem to have been there for a while, probably generations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare it with Modernist architecture (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modern_architecture#American_modernism_-_Frank_Lloyd_Wright,_Rudolph_Schindler,_Richard_Neutra_(1919%E2%80%931939)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American modernism&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T13:33:41.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-04T01:28:56.737" Score="5" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to apply laminated piece of paper as an arcade machine video game controller cover but I want to later be able to remove it cleanly from the controller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7r0BX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7r0BX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a ton of spray adhesives but none of them make it clear if they can be removed. Some say &quot;repositionable&quot; but looking at the instructions that usually just means they don't dry instantly so you have a few minutes window where you can remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effectively I'm looking for an adhesive that is slightly more adherent than a post-it note. Maybe as adhesive as a vinyl sticker which usually come off cleanly in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(would also love advice on the paper itself ... in the comments?. Need it to stand up to greasy fingers etc. Was going to laminate but if there is some other method, maybe not paper? Note: the final cover will have a design on it and hence needs to be printed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4486" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T19:48:02.017" Title="Which spray adhesive should I use to temporarily glue a laminated piece of paper to plastic?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4036" CreationDate="2018-04-04T04:15:58.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best you can do is to have the sticker printed at a professional printer to make removable cling-type window stickers. I believe it is usually vinyl and it sticks with static-electricity. Anything homemade is going to suck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T04:15:58.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2018-04-04T13:39:56.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the elements mentioned in User18849's excellent answer, I think the simplicity of each element (in terms of usability and function) and obvious quality of everything, greatly contribute to the apparent coziness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hobbit hole is an unintimidating space where you don't have to worry about figuring out how to use anything, nor that you might accidentally break an element because it is flimsy or cheap. This is a space that can be lived in without effort or disproportionate carefulness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the walls, doors and even the windows seem thick and solid; which reinforces a sense of safety from the dangers outside&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T13:39:56.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4036" CreationDate="2018-04-04T19:48:02.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is such a thing as Post-it Note adhesive sticks, which allow you to &quot;make any paper sheet into a Post-it note&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it works well, but doesn't come off absolutely cleanly. That said, what little residue there is wipes off easily with a cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGG2p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGG2p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001GXFB4K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Removable-Restickable-Stick-49oz-Repositionable/dp/B001GXFB4K&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T19:48:02.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4016" CreationDate="2018-04-06T13:45:49.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can - Absolutely! As @Henry Taylor suggests: it would be a good idea to kill off parasites, termites, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you cut or sand-down the ends, be sure they are level so the top of your table is not at an angle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can choose to coat the top with a urethane coating, or just lay a piece of glass, plexiglass, or polycarbonate over the top so you have a smooth top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you wish, they also make great planters. You can carve or gouge a hole in the top; drill a hole for water to drain from, and either put a pot in it with flowers or just fill it with dirt and directly plant something in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, if you plan to use it for a bedside, or end-table next to a couch or bench, you can use something like a brass, or copper tube and wire-up a built-in lamp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck @rbhat!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4504" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T13:45:49.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4210" CreationDate="2018-04-06T15:17:40.340" Score="5" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the look of patterns that are created using different colors of thread rather than printed on top of the fabric, but I've had some difficulty searching for such fabric online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of what I'm looking for from my closet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1720.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1720s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Woven Plaid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGCPM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGCPMs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dot pattern on right side, dashed lines on wrong side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K73Bg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K73Bgs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Every weft thread is a different color&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some research and found several possible search terms &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jacquard fabric&lt;/strong&gt;:  Describes weaving process. Is a little too specific as a jacquard loom wouldn't be used for plaids for example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Homespun fabric&lt;/strong&gt;: &quot;Homespun is a lightweight fabric of fine cotton yarns, produced by using traditional colornial techniques of hand dying, warping, weaving and washing&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://millersdrygoods.com/fabric/homespuns/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Def. from Miller Home Goods&lt;/a&gt; Is a little too general since it includes dyed fabric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a general term to describe woven patterns? Or what more specific terms would apply to the fabric samples above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4506" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T13:05:17.120" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T22:19:52.220" Title="Is there a term to describe woven patterns as opposed to printed patterns?" Tags="|fabric|weaving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-08T15:20:07.283" Score="4" ViewCount="1833" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I loved this silver ring I purchased in india, with a square top part and clustered with around 25 tiny diamonds. Unfortunately the odd diamond fell out after the ring took some knocks and I fell out of love with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my g/f recently bought me a similar type of ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like this&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FUe7e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FUe7e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Looks Like This&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to ask is if it a good idea to paint clear nail varnish over the ring to stop the stones falling out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its Silver although the photo is of a gold one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4513" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T13:18:48.763" Title="How to protect a diamond ring so the stones don't fall out when it takes a knock" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-09T03:47:43.720" Score="6" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to add vertical train tracks going up one side of a stockinette/knit square, all the same colour. I was wondering if someone more experience might be able to help me figure out how to knit it? Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VzwU3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VzwU3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of &amp;quot;train tracks&amp;quot; stitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just one set of train tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be okay if the design were flatter (so long as it still showed up differently texture-wise or a bit raised), and I'm not crazy about 'purls', garter stitches aren't my favourite either lookwise but they'd work (look ok in example). I like seed and stockinette/knit stitches. I'm brand new to knitting so something not too difficult would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@whrrgarbl - I'm looking to rotate the pattern so it will be knit vertically up one side of a stockinette square, and just one set of train tracks (2 stitches going up the sides and horizontal lines between them, textured differently and/or raised so as to differentiate them from the rest of the square). I'm looking to see if I can find a pattern for just a plain square of the size I'm looking for, so hopefully I could be better helped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4518" LastEditorUserId="4522" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T01:50:35.927" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T01:50:35.927" Title="Pattern for adding train tracks to a simple stockinette square?" Tags="|knitting|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4044" CreationDate="2018-04-09T19:02:49.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the photo example, the &quot;train tracks&quot; are actually created horizontally - an easy way to tell is by the direction of the &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt; made by the knit stitches. The rightmost edge of the item in the image would have been the cast-off edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a starting point, I'll go through the existing pattern. It appears to start with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cast on an odd number of stitches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Rows 1-8: garter stitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes the end border. The odd number is so that when you get to the body, it will be symmetrical on both ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gap between the &quot;tracks&quot; is a garter stitch border on the edges, with stockinette in between. Keep in mind that here the odd-numbered rows will be on the right side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Row 9: k across&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Row 10: k 5, p until 5 sts from end, k 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Row 11: k across&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you make the &quot;rail&quot; of the tracks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Row 12: k across&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next are the tracks. Continue the garter stitch border, but with ribbing in between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;7&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Row 13: k5, k1, *p1, k1* repeat between * until 5 stitches from end, k5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Row 14: k5, p1, *k1, p1* repeat between * until 5 stitches from end, k5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Rows 15, 16, 17: repeat row 13, 14, and 13 again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then your second rail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;10&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Row 18: k across&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original pattern just repeats the tracks (steps 3-10) a number of times, then adds another gap (3-5) and end border (2) before casting off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To create a single &quot;track&quot; in a plain stockinette square&lt;/strong&gt;, you just need steps 6-10, omitting the 5 stitch border on either end of the row. Make sure you start the track pattern on the &lt;em&gt;wrong side&lt;/em&gt; (WS), so the first row (k across) will become a purl row on the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the pattern would become:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cast on an odd number of stitches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Knit an even number of rows in stockinette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(WS) k across&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;k1, *p1, k1* until end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(WS) p1, *k1, p1* until end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;k1, *p1, k1* until end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(WS) p1, *k1, p1* until end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;k1, *p1, k1* until end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(WS) k across&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Continue in stockinette stitch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you want to start on the right (knit) side of the stockinette, you can swap the k's and p's above for the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In case you want to knit it purely vertically&lt;/strong&gt;, you could rotate the k's and p's by 90 degrees - but this will likely skew the result since stitches are not perfectly square. Typically row height is shorter than stitch width, but you can check your gauge to be sure. If that's the case, you would want to add extra space between the rails, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;stockinette, p1, k5, p1, stockinette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;stockinette, k1, p5, k1, stockinette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;stockinette, p1, k5, p1, stockinette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;stockinette, k7, stockinette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Repeat rows 1-4 until tracks are desired length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Repeat rows 1-3 for symmetry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you a visual, using &lt;code&gt;0&lt;/code&gt; for knit and &lt;code&gt;.&lt;/code&gt; for purl, this would result in something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.......000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.......000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.......000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;000000000000000.00000.000000000000000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T19:02:49.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-10T14:06:50.610" Score="10" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a scroll to document life events. The important requirements are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;approximately 30cm wide by 2m tall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;relatively easy for other people to sign their names on it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can be rolled up and carried in a cylindrical tube in a backpack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;last at least 50 years with minimal deterioration, while being unrolled, hung on the wall, and then rolled up again at least 1-2 times a year&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Scroll&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikihow has a guide for making a scroll&lt;/a&gt; (fabric lasts longer than paper; sew the fabric to match the size of the dowels), but no tips for making sure it lasts long.  An art store suggested I could use acrylic pens on canvas, but I also read that acrylic can crack and deteriorate from frequent rolling and unrolling.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://theflourishforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=933.0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This forum also has some tips about calligraphy on fabric, such as the idea of stabilizing the fabric with clear acrylic first.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best combination of materials for this (type of fabric and type of pens)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4521" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T05:40:08.047" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T05:40:08.047" Title="Best materials for a long-lasting scroll" Tags="|material-selection|fabric|medium-selection|pens|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-10T16:25:43.273" Score="6" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to experiment (being new to this expression of Origami) with creating origami tessellation patterns using fabric of some kind rather than paper. If anyone has experience with this, what fabrics do you feel are better suited for this initial foray, and does the fabric benefit from a stiffening agent in advance? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4455" LastEditorUserId="4455" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T16:30:37.853" LastActivityDate="2023-03-07T10:30:45.850" Title="Which Fabrics are suitable for origami tessellation?" Tags="|fabric|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4046" CreationDate="2018-04-10T21:21:21.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For such a thing I would use very fine 100% cotton, linen, or silk fabric (rough texture would make it more difficult to write on) and India/China ink to write with. No sealing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably not the easiest way to write for some people, as the ink tends to ‘bleed’ to a certain extent (I personally like the effect). Use a fine pointed brush and little ink if you want less ‘bleeding’ and give people a test fabric to adjust to the writing method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t know exactly how long these materials are proven to last without any special treatment but they surely exceeds 50 years in normal conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4530" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T21:21:21.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4050" CreationDate="2018-04-10T23:40:34.690" Score="0" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to splice two cardboard shipping boxes to make a bigger shipping box. Is using hot-melt glue a fast, strong-holding, and cheap way? Which type should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pre-applied adhesive under the peel-able strip in USPS-produced Priority Mail boxes can be left unused at room temperature for years and still be effective. What is this material and is it better at splicing than hot glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4531" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T00:37:40.797" Title="Effective adhesive material to splice cardboard shipping boxes?" Tags="|adhesives|material-selection|material-identification|cardboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-04-11T13:03:00.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4049" CreationDate="2018-04-11T00:37:40.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The boxes from USPS are of consistently flat and relatively thin material, while the adhesive strip is also quite thin. As such, this material would not work well on coarser surfaces such as corrugated cardboard, especially as that material is not particularly flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot melt glue is thicker in general, certainly more fluid and able to spread and fill any surface irregularities. Using hot glue, you can get away with a relatively thin stripe that will flatten upon closure and provide substantial bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase double sided tape of many types, from thin, paper-only bonding up to heavy duty carpet bonding tape. The latter would work quite well in the cardboard arena, as it is designed to bond irregular, not-particularly-flat surfaces, but it's also going to be more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T00:37:40.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2018-04-11T13:25:54.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont know if you're fond of makeup. but think of the pencil you sketched with as foundation and the marker/ink as eyeshadow,mascara,eyeliner, or etc. If you wipe that base with soap and water (eraser) its going to remove/fade your precise inking or makeup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T13:25:54.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2900" CreationDate="2018-04-11T14:11:18.953" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mH8EP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Eight sided fortune teller &quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gz1Ba.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Five sided fortune teller &quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PTBL0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How to fold a fortune teller&quot;&gt;&#xA;How to fold a fortune teller: &#xA;Fold all four corners to the center and turn over.&#xA;Fold all four corners to the center again and turn over. To make a modular unit fold all four corners to the center once more.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoONz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fold all four behind &quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zT61G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pocket and point&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On opposite sides draw a capital A on the pockets&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQlDz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Draw an A on opposite flaps&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Join the A pockets &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LrzV1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Fold each connected pocket in on itself to hide the A and lock the model together&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiCAr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Fold each module in half as you go &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZDqF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Connect the last pocket the same way&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n17Bf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fold three fortune tellers for the five sided one and eight for the eight sided one.&#xA;Incidentally this makes a quite beautiful flexible model as well as a functional fortune teller &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0D4ZJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy folding, Grace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4536" LastEditorUserId="4536" LastEditDate="2018-04-21T15:37:41.130" LastActivityDate="2018-04-21T15:37:41.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2018-04-11T21:44:15.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A clear gloss nail polish will also work and costs around two dollars in Australia. It's not perfect as it will darken the colour of you paper and over time yellow white paper, however it's easy to find and easy to use and dries quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4536" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T21:44:15.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4056" CreationDate="2018-04-12T08:03:42.767" Score="5" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best material to make snow on miniatures except crushed glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="109" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-09T20:59:07.827" LastActivityDate="2022-10-09T20:59:07.827" Title="What is the best material to make snow on miniatures?" Tags="|material-selection|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4055" CreationDate="2018-04-12T08:58:47.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like many things to do with miniatures, there are things you can buy and things you can make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Buy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy what's known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.noch.com/en/product-categories/model-landscaping/snow-winter.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;modelling snow&lt;/a&gt; from most manufacturers of scenic products. This is likely to contain crushed glass, but does save you from crushing it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Make&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other well known material for making snow is Bicarbonate of Soda (AKA &lt;em&gt;Baking Soda&lt;/em&gt;) - available at virtually every food shop or supermarket. This looks great at first, but over a period of a few years becomes increasingly yellow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of people using flour...don't do this. It's too coarse, and has a tendency to &lt;em&gt;rot&lt;/em&gt; if you're not careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wCDal.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wCDal.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bicarbonate of Soda snow&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;      &lt;em&gt;Image from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://coloursandeagles.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/basing-tutorial-snow-tarmac-urban-winter.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;basing tutorial&lt;/a&gt; I wrote a few years ago showing snow made with bicarbonate of soda.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend that you use water effects (clear resin) to stick the snow down instead of PVA, it looks better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T08:58:47.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4046" CreationDate="2018-04-12T10:32:44.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;We actually have a good idea of which scroll materials last for hundreds of years, because we have scrolls that are hundreds of years old. What are they made of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Parchment&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_Sea_Scrolls#Age&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;two thousand year old scrolls&lt;/a&gt; written on parchment (as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gevil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;required&lt;/a&gt; for Jewish &lt;em&gt;Torah&lt;/em&gt; scrolls). These seem to be mainly written using ordinary carbon black ink, but many (particularly Medieval) documents were written using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_gall_ink&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Iron Gall black ink&lt;/a&gt;, of which many survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parchment is expensive and relatively difficult to come by, but is still produced in small quantities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Papyrus&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Egyptians wrote on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papyrus&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;papyrus&lt;/a&gt; scrolls, and we have several surviving examples including &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ebers_Papyrus&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some over 3500 years old&lt;/a&gt;. Like the Jewish parchments, these were normally written using carbon black ink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Papyrus is also expensive, but not as expensive as vellum and more widely available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Paper&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have surviving fragments of paper with writing/drawing on it from the 2nd century BC, and we know that the Chinese made scrolls from this material. Chinese painting &lt;a href=&quot;http://depts.washington.edu/chinaciv/painting/4ptgtech.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;normally used water based inks&lt;/a&gt; for both paper and silk scrolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Silk&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chinese scrolls have been written on silk for thousands of years - the excavations at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mawangdui&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mawangdui&lt;/a&gt; unearthed silk scrolls dating back to the 2nd century BC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silk fabric is readily available (if relatively expensive), but requires treatment before it can be written on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Suggestion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the difficulty of acquiring and preparing the other substances, I'd suggest you look for paper. The specific type you're looking for is probably a relatively heavy acid-free paper (AKA &lt;em&gt;archival paper&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;museum grade paper&lt;/em&gt;), which is specifically designed to last for a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for ink, since you only seem to wish to write and not draw/paint in colour, I suggest the ubiquitous carbon black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T10:32:44.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="542" CreationDate="2018-04-13T03:37:25.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your intended there are a number of glue type.  I used GOOP-II for bonding shells to a heavy textured paper - shell bits &amp;amp; shards stay in one place and seems to last forever.  Nice thing is it’s clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4542" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T03:37:25.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4106" CreationDate="2018-04-13T12:31:41.760" Score="5" ViewCount="2887" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large quantity of veg-tanned 2-3mm (5-8oz) leather, and I would like to try bookbinding with it. One thing that concerns me is that this is much thicker than the leather I normally see used for binding, so I'd like to know whether this leather is suitable, and more generally &lt;strong&gt;which thicknesses of leather are suitable for book binding?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T00:01:02.983" Title="What thicknesses of leather are suitable for book binding?" Tags="|leather|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-14T09:05:32.787" Score="2" ViewCount="1718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to make fake soil. I would like the end result to look as close as possible to real soil, but be made up of solid parts that do not create goo, dust or other residue. I have tried coffee with glue but it is not solid enough. What should I use for this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="467" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T10:30:25.420" Title="How can I make solid fake soil?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4061" CreationDate="2018-04-14T10:37:15.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume you are talking about model-building. You can try mixing sawdust and sand with some burnt sienna acrylic. Apply it to your surface while the paint is still wet. When the paint has dried, drybrush it with a lighter brown over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T10:37:15.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4047" CreationDate="2018-04-15T13:42:38.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cottons which take folds well and hold the crease when you rub or iron it in.&#xA;I would look for a woven fabric and not for a certain weight but I would experiment with several which I have around in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that sail makers used to use a sail rubber when having made a fold in the sail before sewing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sail cotton (also called cotton duck) is about as heavy as you can get it and still be able to work it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you need to stiffen it depend on what you want to do when the initial folds are in and on the quality and weight of the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other fabrics will work, if you use an iron or steam in the folds. Traditionally woolen fabrics were used to make pleated skirts where the folds worked pretty much like the patterns you plan to make. Steaming those fabrics was a specialist job, but simple patterns should be within reach for people at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best is to experiment.&#xA;And please come back to tell use what worked for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T13:42:38.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4069" CreationDate="2018-04-15T19:15:11.237" Score="3" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this breath-taking photograph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is photograph of ruins of haveli (big house, mansion), in Northern India, built pre-1947 (before India split into India and Pakistan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/british/modern/partition1947_01.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hasn't been lived in since 1947&lt;/a&gt;, and architecture like this is no longer built (not that I know of, at least)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily we live in digital age where people post all sorts of photos from around the world&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to paint a photo of this as if the haveli is in it's original, pristine condition, without modern technology, i.e. see those power lines on the top left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As if I took a time machine to early 1940s Northern India, sat in front of this haveli, and started painting this with my oil pastels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwO8Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwO8Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3336" LastEditorUserId="3336" LastEditDate="2018-04-15T19:31:32.477" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T11:30:05.077" Title="Photo of Ruins, how to Paint it as if it is in original Time period" Tags="|painting|oil-pastels|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4011" CreationDate="2018-04-15T21:35:52.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think any such thing exists; the two closest alternatives I can think of are both long out of manufacture (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eaton%27s_Corrasable_Bond&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eaton's Corrasable bond&lt;/a&gt;, and Crane's &quot;Old Money&quot;). Old Money would also have been too thick, but Crane took advantage of being the manufacturer of US currency paper by creating a 100% cotton bond paper that was 30% recycled currency. (Similarly, their &quot;Denim Blues&quot; recycled cotton scraps they got from Levi's, and is also discontinued).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tracing paper is thin and strong enough, but holds creases &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; well and makes it very difficult to reverse them cleanly. Baking parchment (which you can find in food storage sections of stores, next to the aluminum foil and plastic wrap) has a similar issue, but is a little easier to work with, and in fact &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJuxfSCLwAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one youtube video demonstrates making a flasher with it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best alternatives I've found for ready-made papers to fold with that are thin and strong and take a crease well and of a size to allow for more complex models are the usual hard-to-source candidates, such as thin kraft paper. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.origami-shop.com/en/origami-paper-xsl-207.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The origami-shop.com website&lt;/a&gt; has a good (expensive) selection of the papers folders prize in sizes larger than the usual 6&quot;x6&quot; kami that frustrates us so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is, of course, the option of DIY tissue foil (i.e., laminating foil with tissue paper and spray adhesive), and sizing paper with methyl cellulose but those never appealed to me, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/356/&quot;&gt;What should I look for in a paper for a complex origami model?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T21:43:39.003" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T21:43:39.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4061" CreationDate="2018-04-16T10:30:25.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen (dyed) crumbs of cork used as fake soil.  You'd probably need to mix it with glue (diluted PVA perhaps) then sprinkle a last layer on top and dust off any excess, to hide the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Granulated cork&quot; looks like a good search term.  It's available in a range of particl sizes, so you could use the fine stuff for scale models, and something coarser if it should look life-size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T10:30:25.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4064" CreationDate="2018-04-16T10:40:03.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can tell you with certainty that architecture like this does exist, is still being built and is pretty common in Europe, for example in Halle or Leipzig, Germany. You can also see examples of it in Normandy (France). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique of mortaring brick and coating it with cement or mud is pretty common. I imagine the biggest problem you will have is finding out the color used at the time. In order to keep buildings cool, the southern walls would usually have a light color - as white (a so-called lime wash) was easy to produce - I would go for that, unless someone with more experience in Indian architecture can add their knowledge...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-04-16T11:30:05.077" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T11:30:05.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4042" CreationDate="2018-04-16T15:55:31.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find any &lt;em&gt;definitive&lt;/em&gt; information, but having looked every reference to woven patterns just refers to them as...&lt;strong&gt;woven patterns&lt;/strong&gt; - likewise, printed patterns are referred to as printed patterns or 'prints'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the (really rather small) pictures you've included:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The left picture shows what appears to be what is probably some form of tartan or plaid overlying a herringbone weave.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The middle picture shows a couple of different types of pinstripes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The right hand picture shows another set of stripes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can update your post with bigger pictures, I (or someone else) might be able to give a better answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T17:17:58.567" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T17:17:58.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="356" CreationDate="2018-04-18T20:04:39.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree with much of what was said, especially as it pertains to parchment paper. However, there are some new and old provisos which apply to parchment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is unlikely you will find a sufficiently large enough sheet to accommodate the demands of a complex model in a stationary or office supple store. Size follows function in these cases, and you may want (by example0 a square larger than 11&quot; x 14&quot; sheets can provide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other caveat (which may not make a difference to you) is the watermark that many fine parchment papers have...especially those purchased commercially, as referred to above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thinner the better in complex-level folds--one of the reasons parchment has much to recommend it because of its fiber content. That said, a 24lb sheet ordered from a printing house or similar business is going to be challenging as you work on crimps, sinks, or rabbit folds 80 steps into the instruction set. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-slick Baking Paper, which you can purchase from restaurant supply stories, may be something to consider for practice sessions. If you are using butcher block paper to practice, you may want to apply a stiffening agent to it. One fairly inexpensive option is using a readily available product called  &quot;Stiffy,&quot; which is generally (but not only) used for fabrics. I have used it for my fabric origami and it should work satisfactorily for paper. (Just be sure to apply it evenly, squeegee off the excess liquid, and allow sufficient time for it to dry. Once that is done, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt;, cut the paper down to the size you wish to use for the model.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4455" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2018-04-30T20:00:49.280" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T20:00:49.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4078" CreationDate="2018-04-19T23:49:07.413" Score="5" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired some burgundy burlap to use in re-upholstering some straight backed chairs. Problem is,  the color comes off if you rub hard against it (like sitting down!). Any suggestions on how I can set the dye job on this material? Returning it isn't an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Jackie&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4568" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T14:51:27.053" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T14:51:27.053" Title="How can I stop dye from rubbing off burlap?" Tags="|fabric|dye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3795" CreationDate="2018-04-20T05:43:37.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 2017 Prym introduced needles designed to work well for people with difficulty knitting, you could try those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're plastic, triangular in cross-section and have a tiny ball on the tips. I have not used them, but talked to some people who did. The consensus was that there is nothing special in them for abled people (and the ball at the tip surprisingly doesn't impede knitting), but one person, who had a broken wrist and was slowly returning to knitting at the time said they were wonderful, she was finally able to work more than a few stitches and the physical therapy could progress better because of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The needles are called Prym Ergonomic, here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_8?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=prym%20ergonomic%20circular&amp;amp;sprefix=Prym%20erg%2Caps%2C491&amp;amp;crid=S6VKMUJ935EJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon search for them&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;And this is what they look like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWucY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWucY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T05:43:37.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3615" CreationDate="2018-04-20T06:48:15.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can visit your local yarn shop and use their swift and ball winder. It's likely to cost a little bit, but there are people who will gladly pay for the comfort of not having to do this on their own!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T06:48:15.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4075" CreationDate="2018-04-20T08:19:41.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to guess what went wrong in the dying process, but I am assuming you have a natural jute fiber burlap. You will probably have to dye the fabric again. What usually works is &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001763GIO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rit&lt;/a&gt; - which you can get at pretty much a y fabric store. Be careful, it is a little caustic and will stain your skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try to fix the dye, don’t use salt or vinegar - caustic soda &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work, but you probably want to get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/settingdye.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retayne&lt;/a&gt; as it is described here. Apparently also available at quilting and fabric stores, I must say that I do not know the product but the science seems sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-04-20T17:30:46.227" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T17:30:46.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-20T13:48:56.293" Score="2" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to disassemble a vintage coffee grinder, so I could clean it and put back together. It is probably made in the first half of last century, mostly or all manual work. There is a joint that holds the crank in place (zoomed on photo) and I do not know how it is built. Its rather soft metal so knocking it with hammer in wrong way will disfigure it. Can anyone guess what it is? Some kind of wedge, a screw or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ebRkJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ebRkJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coffee grinder&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4569" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T22:06:32.877" Title="Disassembling a vintage coffee grinder" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4079" CreationDate="2018-04-20T22:06:32.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try holding the blades stationary while turning the handle in the direction opposite of the direction it turns during grinding.  That will possible unscrew the blades section from the top, leaving you with three easily cleanable and re-assemble-able pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T22:06:32.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-21T19:46:25.913" Score="7" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an engineering student and, for my final project this semester, I have to build a paper bridge. I plan to use rubber cement to glue the tubes of my bridge, but I want to use something else to glue the joints together. Elmer's glue has been suggested but it could warp the paper. Is there anyway to stop this? Or, does anyone suggest some other type of adhesive. It needs to be strong and light weight, and I need to try and apply it in thin layers, if possible. My bridge will be graded on weight to weight held ratio, so that's why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4572" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T05:35:06.843" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T05:35:06.843" Title="Paper Bridge Project" Tags="|adhesives|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4082" CreationDate="2018-04-21T20:52:05.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm inclined to think Elmer's Glue-All (PVA glue) is a good choice, even for the tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely apply it with a paint brush (like a wide artist's paint brush) rather than just glob it on. It could distort a single sheet, but if you're dealing with rolled tubes I don't expect you'd have too much trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that painting it onto, say, the surface of a rolled tube, like a &quot;varnish&quot;, will form a composite material with much, much greater strength than the paper tube alone. This is the same principle used in fiberglass and carbon fiber composites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely experiment with the particular members you'll be working with. Get a feel for the methods that work before depending your project's success on them :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &quot;seal&quot; an end or even a broad cross section with a thin coat painted on and left to dry. After that, even a big glob will not distort the surface because the fibers have been stabilized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really, really needed to coat a single sheet, perhaps to act as a tension member, I would try pressing it flat (while still wet) after applying the glue to both sides (absolutely as thinly as possible). You would need some sort of non-stick surface for the pressing, perhaps that paper backing that address labels come on or a silicone baking sheet. You might also need some heat to drive off the moisture, maybe a very, very low oven (100F) or just a blow dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A blow dryer will speed drying for many joints, which can be handy during sub-assembly and final assembly. Again, experiment a few times to work out how hot is too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notion of applying (and letting dry) a thin, brushed-on &quot;primer&quot; coat to key areas before final gluing can be an important one. That way you can use glue &quot;beads&quot; that will provide something of a fillet that can greatly improve the strength of the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-04-21T20:52:05.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4082" CreationDate="2018-04-21T23:45:56.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should look into using bookbinders glue, which is an air drying adhesive - or you could try with artist’s grade acrylic gloss mediums - which depending on the medium used can range in viscosity from milky to paste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bigjumppress.wordpress.com/2013/05/08/oh-my-god-im-out-of-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recipe for bookbinder glue&lt;/a&gt; (PVA + methyl cellulose). While preparing the methyl cellulose, be sure to use distilled water, the author on that page leaves that bit out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what you use, do not dilute with any water. That will introduce wrinkles because the water molecules are only in suspension. A further method to reduce wrinkling and warping is to coat both sides of the material with the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, if it was about weight vs strength, if I were you I would fashion something like corrugated cardboard - or do some self-tensioning dovetail joined origami and ditch the glue altogether...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-04-22T08:39:30.027" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T08:39:30.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4090" CreationDate="2018-04-22T14:45:14.260" Score="6" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;In what technique were medieval book miniatures executed, and are there materials available today to nurture this branch of art? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess those miniatures have two important materials. Vellum is the background material that can be replaced with high quality paper today. But I am not certain what kind of medium was used for painting - my guess that watercolor was the prime medium, because oil color can not be used on paper/vellum and pastels were developed later and tempera is not so resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2461" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-04-24T09:30:14.487" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T10:31:41.260" Title="In what technique medieval book miniatures were executed and are there materials today for doing this?" Tags="|painting|material-selection|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-23T21:25:01.460" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a scrapbook. I wanted to buy one from Michaels, or some art supply store but I wanted to know if what I'm looking for exists... the scrapbook I found online at Michaels basically just has ten pages full of laminated papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want is a book with the same hardcover as a scrapbook except on the inside, there are just pages of white paper because I want to paste photos and I want to write notes in them, and even draw comics in them. I don't want something that looks like a binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what I am looking for is called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4516" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-04-24T10:33:52.467" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T10:33:52.467" Title="Is what I am looking for a scrapbook?" Tags="|terminology|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4088" CreationDate="2018-04-23T22:36:41.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about a &lt;strong&gt;hardbound sketchbook&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ue89A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ue89A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*this or any other brand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**this is a sticker, the cover is black&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;***they come in variety of sizes and thicknesses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4581" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T22:36:41.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4085" CreationDate="2018-04-24T08:42:06.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drawing of pictures in manuscripts is known as &lt;em&gt;Illumination*&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Illuminated_manuscript&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; on the subject (as mentioned in a previous answer) contains a wealth of information on the subject, including this gif showing the steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJzg0.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJzg0.gif&quot; alt=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Illumination_execution.gif&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image from Wikimedia commons: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Illumination_execution.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps involved (from the image caption):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I. Graphite powder dots create the outline &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;II. Silverpoint drawings are sketched (you could use pencil instead here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;III. Illustration is retraced with ink &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IV. The surface is prepared for the application of gold leaf &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;V. Gold leaf is laid down &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VI. Gold leaf is burnished to make it glossy and reflective &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VII. Decorative impressions are made to adhere the leaf &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VIII. Base colors are applied &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IX. Darker tones are used to give volume &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X. Further details are drawn &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XI. Lighter colors are used to add particulars &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XII. Ink borders are traced to finalize the illumination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is the technique used in illumination&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the materials, despite your misgivings &lt;strong&gt;tempera is actually extremely robust and was used for all miniatures&lt;/strong&gt;, along with ink and gold/silver leaf. Tempera's resistance should be obvious from the fact that we have many surviving tempera paintings that are hundreds or even thousands of years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tempera can't be stored, but it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eggtempera.com/technical-info/egg-tempera-paint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;easy to make yourself&lt;/a&gt; with egg, water and pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia article also contains a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Illuminated_manuscript#Paints&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of common pigments&lt;/a&gt; used in Medieval times - you can try your hand at making these, or use easily available synthetic pigments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final aside, vellum is expensive and relatively rare these days but it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; still available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*In the strictest sense illumination refers only to pictures containing gold, but in normal usage it covers all drawings of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-04-24T10:31:41.260" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T10:31:41.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4011" CreationDate="2018-04-24T13:58:51.883" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bep.gov/currency/faqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US currency is a mixture of both 25% linen and 75% cotton&lt;/a&gt; blended together, you might need to look for high quality stationary or look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hobbyfarms.com/customize-your-own-homemade-cotton-paper-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;making your own&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The US Department of Treasury's Bureau of Engraving and Printing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.moneyfactorystore.gov/uncutcurrency.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sells uncut sheets of currency&lt;/a&gt; that you can cut yourself or use for larger projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The US Department of Treasury's Bureau of Engraving and Printing also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bep.gov/services/shredded-currency-distribution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sells shredded currency&lt;/a&gt; which you could technically try and use to make paper yourself; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.foxbusiness.com/features/where-money-goes-to-die&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Department used to make stationary out of the shredded currency&lt;/a&gt; but stopped due to low customer demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also handled some types of washi paper and it felt similar to US currency (at least to me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Other information:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/moolah/anatomypaper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PBS article about currency &amp;quot;paper&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2023-09-27T11:52:18.783" LastActivityDate="2023-09-27T11:52:18.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-26T17:07:07.610" Score="10" ViewCount="1247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just came across an amigurumi pattern that specifically asks for a &lt;em&gt;single crochet into back loop only&lt;/em&gt; and it made me question what the difference is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what is the difference between normal single crochet and single crochet into back loop only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4592" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-04-26T18:38:57.087" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T13:43:23.077" Title="What is the difference between normal single crochet and single crochet into back loop only?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4092" CreationDate="2018-04-26T18:45:08.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The end result looks quite different. If you work an entire row that way, it makes a ridge, whereas normal single crochets (using both loops) work up flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://knittingandcrochet.net/instructions/back-loops-in-crochet/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nice crocheting guide&lt;/a&gt; that shows the difference between the two when worked in a swatch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2D6ZP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2D6ZP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Single crochets vs back loop single crochets&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guide notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Structurally, these fabrics are really different. Standard single crochet has a sturdier, denser feel to it. It has a smoother, less textured appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, back loop single crochet has a stretchier, more fluid feel to it. The appearance is much more textured, as it has interesting ridges on the surface of the work. If you rotate this fabric on its side, you can take full advantage of the stretch and mimic the look of a knitted rib stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While amigurumi often use single crochets, when you want a ribbed texture, like with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/amigurumi-cactus-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this cactus project&lt;/a&gt; (requires Ravelry account), you need something different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zneVj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zneVjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Amigurumi Cactus&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(Pattern &lt;a href=&quot;http://thelostnotebooks.blogspot.com/2015/06/amigurumi-cactus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stitch is an easy way to achieve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T21:20:51.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-26T21:24:52.123" Score="6" ViewCount="1268" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you start or finish a project, you end up with a tail of yarn. What is the simplest way to hide it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4594" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T13:20:47.060" Title="What to do with tail of yarn to hide it?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2018-04-27T00:15:47.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually find that the simplest way of hiding yarn is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut your yarn about two inches (5 cm) away from your last stitch. Pull the yarn through an inconspicuous corner and tie an knot on itself. Weave in the end (Tie a knot or two more if it feels insecure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a more secure finish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut your yarn about an inch and a half to two inches away from your last stitch. Split the yarn into two strands, push them through a gap and around a stitch, one strand in front and one in the back, then tie a strong knot and weave in the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4595" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-04-28T13:20:47.060" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T13:20:47.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4100" CreationDate="2018-04-27T10:10:08.863" Score="10" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I realize this topic may creep some of you, be it because of hygienic or ethics questions. I trust you will understand it comes out of pure curiosity and of the desire of using more natural materials in this craft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thing is, when cutting my curly, cottony hair by myself, I end up with little brown balls of hair, very similar in shape to what you might expect from a ball of coton, although a little less dense. This is far from being the first topic created on the question and, in addition to the many uses of animal hair you can find on the internet, I've read a few things on making yarn or stuffing out of human hair and I was wondering if it would make a good stuffing material for finer works, as amigurumi by instance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this idea raises a few questions, especially regarding hygiene and ethics (hair being a biological material) but while I would be happy to discuss these with you, I'm especially wondering about the technical aspect of the question: durability of the hair as material, change in shape overtime, washing, holding of the stuffing, treatment which would make the whole process easier, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4597" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T18:17:04.720" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T18:17:04.720" Title="Using human hair for amigurumi stuffing" Tags="|material-selection|crocheting|stuffing|amigurumi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4092" CreationDate="2018-04-27T13:43:23.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most amigurumi patterns are worked in the round, not flat.&#xA;For flat items the difference between regular and back loop only (blo) crochet stitches is striking, it creates horizontal ridges, which are often used to imitate ribbing, like in this sock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13VwF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13VwF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sample from New Methods for Crochet Socks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In items worked in the round the difference is more subtle: a horizontal line appears between rows of stitches, as in this ilustration:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uZUcF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uZUcF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part this is a decorative element, so you can include it or not, as you feel like. Try both kinds of fabric and decide which one you like more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes this is a functional element. Toys are usually evenly stuffed, so the feet are rounded and working one round of blo sc will give a gentle emphasis showing where the sole ends and the top of the foot begins, like here, in my own work from last year:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81SlO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/81SlO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lalylala rabbit in progress&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T13:43:23.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2018-04-27T20:33:21.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on the type of yarn you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using &lt;strong&gt;cotton&lt;/strong&gt;, flax (generally plant-based) or &lt;strong&gt;acrylic&lt;/strong&gt; yarn, it's enough to tie a knot at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knots made using wool yarn may get undone, so you should do a bit of weaving in the ends. If your yarn is labeled as &lt;strong&gt;hand-wash only&lt;/strong&gt;, it will felt if treated with high temperature and friction. This is actually advantageous for ends - with use and wear the ends will felt gently into the fabric, so you only need to weave in a short bit of the yarn. &lt;strong&gt;Superwash wool&lt;/strong&gt; will not felt, so you need to weave in a longer end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to weave in&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thread the yarn end on a yarn/tapestry needle, on the back of the work mimic the stitches of your fabric (for stocking stitch fabric) or thread it up and down knit stitches (for ribbed fabric). For a short end work just a few stitches this way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper part of this illustration shows how to do it in stocking fabric and lower part's 'no' would work well with ribbed fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/puuMn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/puuMn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T20:33:21.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-28T08:09:52.017" Score="5" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a vintage, wooden bat which I wanted to restore by myself, for myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the areas where I require help are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removing stickers and their marks:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are these old stickers on the bat which are still there half-torn from the time I bought the bat (a decade ago). These stickers and their marks give the bat this old look which I want to transform to new. So what are the materials and ways of removing stickers and their marks from the bat and make it look like a new one? Will &lt;em&gt;sanding&lt;/em&gt; cause the bat to loose its originality? Please clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crack (line visible) near the area joining the handle and the bat-body:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There's a crack near the area joining the handle to the main body of the bat, it's not necessarily broken but it's just a deep crack (line visible) which I want to fix so it won't cause the bat to break in future. Do I fill it with &lt;em&gt;adhesive&lt;/em&gt;, or what measures should be taken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom part (where we apply the “toe guard”) has lost its shape:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This part of the bat, due to constant thumping, got deformed, i.e. it lost its original &lt;em&gt;semi-circular shape&lt;/em&gt; and has become irregularly shaped. So what do to to get it back into its shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the pics depicting the conditions of my bat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtcZQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtcZQm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The body(showing the sticky-back part.#1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H5xz7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H5xz7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The crack which I said about in #2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hB0Ne.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hB0Nem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The irregular bottom part.#3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;The body (showing the sticky-back, part #1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;The crack I mention in #2 (the same stickiness is on the front part)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;The irregular bottom, part #3&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I need help to find the materials I require (and from where), and how to use them in executing the above mentioned steps effectively.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I know lots of work needs to be done, but I certainly will be successful with your involvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4600" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T10:25:53.660" LastActivityDate="2022-02-20T14:42:48.807" Title="Best way to restore my old vintage wooden cricket bat" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|wood|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4096" CreationDate="2018-04-28T08:51:52.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Human hair is primarily made of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keratin.com/aa/aa012.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;keratin&lt;/a&gt; and is usually somewhat oily (a result of the sebaceous glands lubrication to help the follicles grow out of their subepidermal sheathing). Although keratin also forms the basis of horn, claws and even fingernails, it is an organic protein that can serve as food for microorganisms. It has a long history in art, which is why I think it is a good idea to look at what &lt;a href=&quot;https://journals.openedition.org/ceroart/5071&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;professional art restorers&lt;/a&gt; have to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Human hair is a fragile organic material, which is sensitive to light, temperature and relative humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... common degradations are: abrasion / breaking / undulation / infestation by lepidoptera and dermatophytes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are going to use it as a material, I would recommend that you take a couple precautionary risk-minimization approaches to support its longevity by reducing its stress factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dermatophytes are fungal colonies that on humans are pretty hard to treat, but you can take a trick from &lt;a href=&quot;http://ayurvedacopper.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ayurveda&lt;/a&gt; for treating water: get some uncoated and very thin copper wire from an electronics store (or harvest some from an old cable by defraying it and washing it in acetone). Copper ions are antifungal and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.washingtonpost.com/national/health-science/the-bacteria-fighting-super-element-making-a-return-to-hospitals-copper/2015/09/20/19251704-5beb-11e5-8e9e-dce8a2a2a679_story.html?utm_term=.72adda06a1b3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;antibacterial&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I would recommend occasionally misting the object with a diluted (1:10) lavender essential oil to distilled water. This will not only impart a pleasant and sweet smelling note to the object, but it will also inhibit mite infestation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you will want to consider adding a desiccant to remove ambient humidity inside the object (unless it will always stay in a dry, arid region). If you are not worried about the object being accidentally consumed by small children or pets, you might add a sachet of silica-gel inside (like the ones you can find in new shoeboxes or leather gloves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how it goes!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T13:04:43.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4099" CreationDate="2018-04-28T21:45:51.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I would do if I had to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use fine sandpaper to remove the stickers and the lacquer.* You may want to sand down the scratches as well, but I can’t tell by the photos if that would be a good idea, or that they are too deep (they seem to be so) and trying to fix them would deform the shape of the bat itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill the large crack with wood adhesive. Keep in mind that some adhesives (like PVA) shrink as they dry. If the crack is too wide it may be a better idea to mix some fine sawdust with the adhesive instead of using plane adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Measure and draw a pencil line indicating the desired shape of the bottom part. Use rough sandpaper to shape it and then polish it with fine sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put finish on it. (From the little search I did on what finish to use for the purpose, people advise against using hard finish, as it may end up cracking. Polyurethane spray was a suggestion I found reasonable.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You asked if sanding it down will cause the bat to lose its originality. I’m not sure what you mean by this - what you want to do:  remove the stickers, the cracks and deformities, &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; cause it to lose its originality in a way. If you are concerned about deforming it somehow – then no, the finest grade sandpaper is used for polishing and it won’t deform it, or leave scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4604" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T21:45:51.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-04-29T20:03:03.907" Score="1" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says it all, I honestly do not understand what is going on with my drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am saying is that I need help with someone who can explain to me what I am doing wrong with my physical artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two examples of my art:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/kY3ZT5z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/z5pnU3w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is also an image that I have done digitally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/m2pJYfh.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using Prismacolor Premier (24 Colored Pencils) while the sheet I was using is Bienfang Drawing Paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4606" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-01-25T02:10:33.017" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T02:10:33.017" Title="I am currently struggling with drawing and coloring" Tags="|drawing|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4104" CreationDate="2018-04-30T07:46:51.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, as my most favorite drawing instructor told me, you have to forget the name of the thing you are seeing when you draw it. That means that you look at shapes - not pupils and eyelids. The means that you look at the colors of the highlights and the shadows - not the name of the prismacolor pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to have a great imagination, but you should spend more time looking, and learning to draw what you see. &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/3660/2835&quot;&gt;This post that I wrote&lt;/a&gt; goes into more depth and detail about drawing realistically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-04-30T07:46:51.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4060" CreationDate="2018-05-01T00:01:02.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally leather should be about 1.00 mm thick for bookbinding. I have used leathers that are much thicker as well as leathers that are thinner. The thinner leather poses its' own problems. It can tear quite easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago I did some bookbinding with some rather thick leather. Probably something comparable to what you have at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to use the leather at hand, but there are a few things one needs to be aware of first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to learn how to tapper the edges of the leather with a &lt;strong&gt;sharp&lt;/strong&gt; paring knife to finish the  turn-ins and corners. It takes some practice and patience. The paring knife must be sharp at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCNiL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCNiL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paring Knives&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paring knife (third from the left) is similar to the one I used to use for tapering the leather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9upt9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9upt9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paring Knives&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bookbinderschronicle.blogspot.ca/2011/12/bookbinding-101-paring-leather.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;More Paring Knives!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S72Pu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S72Pu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Basic Paring Stages for Leather&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic Paring Stages for Leather&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the leather tapering (paring) in five stages and practice on some old pieces until you feel comfortable working with the knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Be very careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T00:01:02.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4243" CreationDate="2018-05-01T09:33:27.147" Score="7" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that acrylic yarns vary a lot, with some being rather soft and some being somewhat scratchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does that happen? Is there a way to know whether an yarn is going to be soft or not (short of feeling it yourself)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4610" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2018-05-17T18:06:30.433" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T06:59:17.790" Title="Why are some acrylic yarns super soft and some not?" Tags="|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4119" CreationDate="2018-05-01T10:15:09.627" Score="5" ViewCount="4330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I, for one, do not have easy access to poly stuffing, so I was wondering, what is the second best choice for amigurumi stuffing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4610" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T18:14:35.147" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T18:14:35.147" Title="What to use as amigurumi stuffing if you don't have access to poly stuffing?" Tags="|material-selection|crocheting|stuffing|amigurumi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4123" CreationDate="2018-05-01T13:36:37.977" Score="2" ViewCount="2594" Body="&lt;p&gt;A co-worker asked a riddle that got me wondering about the anatomy of books and book binding methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Riddle:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A leaf is torn from a paperback novel. The sum of the remaining page numbers is 15,000. What pages were torn out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the answer (and a lot of the internet), it claimed that a leaf: &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; &lt;em&gt;is a single sheet bound in a book, and a leaf has two pages&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this assumption was vague and that a leaf can either have two pages or four pages depending on how it is bound. This assumption also changes the answer of the riddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Leaf with two page binding:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fWF9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fWF9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Two page binding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leaf with four page binding:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjtZ3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjtZ3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Four page binding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are both definitions of a &lt;code&gt;book leaf&lt;/code&gt; correct? Or is there only one? Is one more commonly assumed than the other?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-05-02T17:32:43.080" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T15:17:55.380" Title="How many pages does a book leaf have?" Tags="|paper|terminology|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-01T17:16:42.763" Score="3" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am  completely new to cosplay and am needing help with some components for a build I am working on. My goal is to have a helmet system that can hear people around me, and I would like to be able to speak to others. I know at the very least I will need a power source, two sets of speakers, one for my ears, and the other for my voice to be projected, as well as a microphone. I am unsure as to what would be the best power source for this project, such as a 9v battery, or a 4 pack of double or triple A's. I also don't know the proper wire to use for this project. Right now, I just need to get everything wired up to test if it works, then I can work on a mounting system and then fit the helmet around that. What would be the best place to look for these components as well as how to properly wire everything together? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4612" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T18:53:41.943" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:53:41.943" Title="What components, wiring, and electronics needed for helmet internals" Tags="|material-selection|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4111" CreationDate="2018-05-01T21:42:50.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option you have is to use off-the-shelf items rather than to try to build your own from components. So many different options are available for the objective you describe, but I think I've found one that fits well with your use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.electronickits.com/two-station-intercom-kit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wired intercom kit&lt;/a&gt; that uses a 9V battery and a pair of wires to connect one station to the other. The $19.95 price is for one unit, you'd have to buy two for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vb3IV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vb3IV.png&quot; alt=&quot;wired intercom kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The microphone is the silver cylinder in the lower left corner of the circuit board and could be extended to the outside (ear?) of the helmet, while the board and speaker would be mounted inside. If you wanted to go slightly overboard, get one set for each ear and one for you, with the speaker at the outside mouth location and the board and microphone inside near your mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a kit, you'd have to be able to solder the components to the board, but that's a good start in the maker world and a skill that may serve you again in the future. The kit is a good one for learning to solder, as there are few components and nothing too small or complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the instruction manual does not include part identification, nor sequence for assembly, and is therefore lacking as a true tutorial for soldering, but it is not advertised as such. It should still be possible for a novice if appropriate searches are made online for the polarized components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T21:42:50.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-02T17:51:58.523" Score="3" ViewCount="5585" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I get wire that is very thin (needle size, 24-26 gauge), but is stiff (like a needle)? Does it have a name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wire of this diameter available at craft and home stores (which comes in rolls) is too pliable. I'm looking ideally for something that is essentially a really long needle in that it is thin, stiff, and can hold a fair amount of weight without warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context: I wish to suspend fairly heavy beadwork with this wire (think clothesline but with the wire running through the top row of beads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4407" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T16:54:54.853" Title="Ultra thin stiff wire" Tags="|wire|wire-wrapping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-02T18:00:06.660" Score="5" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hard, polycarbonate globe, like this one pictured below. I am trying to make it look like an eyeball. I am lighting it from inside, and I already have a good blue iris that I made out of blue gel sheets. The problem is, it only looks like an eyeball when the light is on, and it is not too bright outside. When the light is off, it looks like a white sphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd like to dye an iris shape on the outside of the globe. But everything I'm reading seems to say that you can't dye this kind of plastic. Is that correct? Or is there some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've tried painting the outside, but when light is shining through, every little brushstroke stands out, and it looks awful)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OxtHC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OxtHC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White Polycarbonate Globe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Just to add more context, here are the current eyeballs I have created. The first pic is in not-so-bright sunlight, with the internal light bulbs at max:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjP38.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjP38.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Eyeballs in daylight 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is what it looks like in very bright sunlight. Note that you can barely see the iris:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f5Gzy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f5Gzy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Zerble in bright daylight&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4617" LastEditorUserId="4617" LastEditDate="2018-05-03T19:50:22.730" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T19:50:22.730" Title="Dyeing hard polycarbonate plastic" Tags="|plastic|dye|dyeing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4113" CreationDate="2018-05-02T18:09:04.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may wish to look for piano wire which is made of high carbon steel and is fairly stiff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1741" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T18:09:04.450" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4113" CreationDate="2018-05-02T20:12:50.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A needle may not be as stiff as you think. One reason a needle &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; so stiff is that it's short. A needle of the same diameter and material that was a foot long would not seem stiff at all by comparison. This is just the mechanics of materials at play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design problem is a trade-off between wire diameter and material strength. The stiffness of the wire is increased with the wire diameter and also by the strength of the material; a wire of stronger material will deflect less than one of a lesser strength, given the same diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength of steel is strongly affected by the alloy and its state of hardening. At the low end would be baling wire, which is mild steel (low-carbon) which cannot be hardened. At the high-end would be tool steel (chrome-vanadium alloy perhaps) that was hardened to maybe 60 Rc (really darn hard). These would exhibit really different deflection characteristics, from bending (permanently) with mild hand pressure to really making you work for it and probably snapping before taking too much of a bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A generally good compromise on these is available in &lt;em&gt;music wire&lt;/em&gt;, as Matt mentions. Music wire is high-ish carbon steel hardened to a &lt;em&gt;spring temper&lt;/em&gt;. This makes it good for springs, which is what a piano string is. It can be made harder, but this comes at the cost of increasing its brittleness. (If you snap a good needle with pliers you'll find that it snaps suddenly, aka. a brittle failure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional strength can be obtained using a tool steel, which I expect what the best needles are made from. This is most easily obtained as so-called &quot;drill rod&quot;. It is supplied unhardened (but still quite strong) and can be hardened to your specifications using a propane torch and either water or (vegetable) oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these options will be absolutely rigid over any distance. You'll need to decide where to trade off a graceful curve with wire thickness. If you can prevent the wire from rotating, you may be able to &quot;pre-stress&quot; the wire (bend it upwards) such that it appears quite straight when loaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with the music wire. It's much cheaper and easier to find. If it's important enough and music wire won't get it done you can look into tool steels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T20:12:50.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4114" CreationDate="2018-05-02T21:44:41.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The colour gel (that is photographic filter, if I understand correctly) actually sounds like a good idea to me; I’m not sure why it doesn’t work for you. Have you tried painting the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ixquick-proxy.com/do/spg/show_picture.pl?l=english&amp;amp;rais=1&amp;amp;oiu=http%3A%2F%2Fi.dailymail.co.uk%2Fi%2Fpix%2F2012%2F12%2F12%2Farticle-2246888-1679CACE000005DC-609_964x969.jpg&amp;amp;sp=2809dfeb8909140c4df9d06c3b900a77&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iris texture&lt;/a&gt; on it, so that it looks more like an eye? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, if you want even colour without brushstrokes you could try &lt;strong&gt;cutting a piece of coloured tissue paper and gluing it on&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to colour it without brushstrokes I can think of is to &lt;strong&gt;print the colour on it instead of paint it&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cover the areas you don’t want to have painted (with masking tape for example). Then you can apply the colour either directly with something like a piece of soft cloth (put little paint on a pallet or something like that and dab the cloth on it, don’t put paint directly on the cloth; be scares with the paint), or apply an even layer of paint on a sheet of paper (with a roller or again a piece of cloth) and then press and rub that against the area you want to have coloured. You may have to do that several times (lift the paper and press it again without putting additional paint) to get better covering. Either way, don’t smudge the paint on, but press it on instead (this is more time consuming but will give you even texture as a result) and don’t put too much paint (this will give you uneven texture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is if you are using paint. If you are using ink, then put some ink directly on a cotton ball or something similar, and dab it on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4618" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T21:44:41.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4114" CreationDate="2018-05-03T01:05:49.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get 2 clear plastic bowls that are the same size and some clear bathtub silicon in a tube. Glue one bowl in the eyeball, this is the iris - paint it so it looks good, glue the other bowl upside down onto it. When the silicon has dried, cut away the excess with a really sharp knife. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c9jEj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c9jEj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T01:05:49.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4108" CreationDate="2018-05-03T18:58:02.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cotton Balls - try pulling them apart a little with your fingers to give them more volume &amp;amp; squish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old Pillows - cut open an old pillow you don't need for the fluff inside (which is more or less polyfill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possibilities: Roving wool, bulky/super bulky yarn (loosely wound up), microbeads, beans (don't get them wet though!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1197" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T18:58:02.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4124" CreationDate="2018-05-03T19:52:38.510" Score="3" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, my button's stitch came off and I was wondering, what is the simplest and best looking way to sew it back on so it stays on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4610" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T15:00:15.243" Title="How to sew a button?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-04T22:07:48.717" Score="5" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've thought of using glue to stick pieces of cardboard together into a sword and then putting aluminum foil on it and painting it to look like it has rusted. Turns out, for paint to stick to aluminum you need to make sure there is no aluminum oxide and treat the aluminum. Paint won't stick to bare aluminum but acrylic paint is the best type of paint to use on aluminum. Is there any inexpensive metal foil for which I could just paint it on and not have to worry about treating the metal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get this type of color on the sword blade:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/huoyd.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/huoyd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can see, there are some areas where I would be using black paint and others where I would be using orange paint and I think I might want to like do a whole layer of black paint and then after drying, put the orange paint on in another layer. But I don't want to go through the expensive process of getting rid of the aluminum oxide and treating the aluminum so is there an inexpensive metal foil that paint will actually stick to without treating the metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1121" LastEditorUserId="6118" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T17:11:52.960" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T17:11:52.960" Title="Pirate sword painting" Tags="|paint|technique-identification|metal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4110" CreationDate="2018-05-05T06:42:40.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick Google search revealed that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Very generally, &quot;leaves&quot; refers to the pages of a book, as in the common phrase, &quot;loose-leaf pages.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A leaf is a single sheet bound in a book, and a leaf has two pages. (Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://biblio.co.uk/book_collecting_terminology/leaves-61.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Biblio&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A folded grouping of leaves is a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://biblio.co.uk/book_collecting_terminology/%7BGLOBALS.SITE_BASE%7D/book_collecting_terminology/gatherings-71.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gathering&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, so the left image under &quot;leaf with 4 pages&quot; in your question is actually a gathering of 4 leaves (8 pages).  The right hand image is a gathering of 2 leaves (4 pages)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you tear one leaf out of a bound book, as books are more commonly bound in gatherings, often one other leaf will also become loose, and maybe fall out — especially if the leaf torn out is in the centre of a gathering. But that is a separate leaf, not the other half of the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastEditorUserId="1997" LastEditDate="2018-05-05T14:34:37.863" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T14:34:37.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4121" CreationDate="2018-05-05T22:36:40.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick with sewing on buttons by hand is to make sure you use a spacer! This adds a little space between the two fabrics add the button itself. I do this all the time and they never come off. The little bit of breathing space really helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to Sew on a Button&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1: &lt;strong&gt;Thread the Needle &amp;amp; Knot the End&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much thread do you have?  If you have 24 inches go ahead and “double over,” which means sliding the thread through the eye of the needle and then doubling it over until you have equal amounts on either side.  You want at least 12 inches to work with.  A doubled-over thread can just have the ends knotted together in a basic square knot, or you can use the same method as a single end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2: &lt;strong&gt;Create Anchor “X” Point&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting at the back end of the fabric, run the needle through to the front where the button is going to be needed.  Run the thread through to the back, and then again back to the front.  You want to create a small “X” where the button will be centered. This X is also the reinforced anchor for the thread to ensure it doesn’t loosen during stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3: &lt;strong&gt;Position the Button&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lFHCg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lFHCg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the button on the anchor “X” and begin sewing by pushing the needle from the back to the front through the first button hole. At this point you want to add the spacer (a second needle or a toothpick, pin, or small stick can be used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push the needle up from the underside of the garment and through one of the holes on the button. Pull the thread all the way through until the knot snugs against the underside of the fabric. Use a fingertip to keep the button in its place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYxXl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYxXl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the needle around and push it back down through the hole opposite the one you came up from. Push it all the way through and tug the thread tight. You should be left with a single small line of thread across the button, connecting the two holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You’ll repeat this process for six passes, three for each set of holes on the button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8bUN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8bUN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 4: Create the Shank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your last repetition of the previous step, come back up through the fabric but not through the button. Come up like you were going to go through the usual hole in the button, but turn the needle aside and bring it out from underneath the button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jE2ne.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jE2ne.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the needle to wrap your thread around the threads beneath the button. Make six loops around the bridges of thread that connect the button to the fabric, behind the button itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull tight and then dive the needle back into the base to be tied off on the other side of the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zRPpz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zRPpz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 5: Tie It Off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a small knot on the back side of the fabric. You can use the needle to guide the thread through a knot or you can snip the thread off the needle and tie the knot in the slack with your fingers, but either way you want it snug up against the back of the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a small knot on the back side of the fabric. You can use the needle to guide the thread through a knot or you can snip the thread off the needle and tie the knot in the slack with your fingers, but either way you want it snug up against the back of the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cYebA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cYebA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the easiest knot to tie off is a simple overhand loop tied with the needle still attached. Pin the thread down right against the back of the fabric, under the button, then make a little circle in the thread just beyond your fingertip and pass the needle through the circle. Tighten it down and then cut off the excess fabric. - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/sewing-on-a-button/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Sew on a Button&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I do buttons, I try to hide the first knot as seen in this YouTube video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FR9S3kN0faw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;An Easy Way To Sew On A Button&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T15:00:15.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4122" CreationDate="2018-05-06T18:56:14.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you mean paint won’t stick to aluminum foil? Because any two-component epoxy based paint will stick to aluminum and aluminum foil. But I think your approach is flawed from the get go. You should look into the way cosplayers build swords. They have a skeleton-like frame (sometimes a solid wood dowel) underneath the sheathing which is very often a type of foam matt like you would find at a camping store for underneath a sleeping bag or a type like that which is used for yoga. They cut shapes and glue them together, perhaps even screwing them to the dowel, paint them, apply decals from model kits etc. The videos can be quite entertaining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T18:56:14.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4122" CreationDate="2018-05-08T09:34:14.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy steel foil (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allfoils.com/products/stainless-steel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hollinbrow.co.uk/hollinbrow/final.asp?id=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UK&lt;/a&gt; examples) then paint your rust onto that.  If you can get one that's not stainless (they exist) you can make it rust.  Even stainless can be rust-stained in wet contact with mild steel (food cans, steel wool). Self-adhesive versions (steel foil tapes) exist too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I'd paint the blade using metallic paint, before applying the rust-effect paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2018-11-30T13:04:50.270" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T13:04:50.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-08T23:16:19.647" Score="2" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to paint below photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What color is a good contrast to the color of the pillars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will re-color the lady's sari accordingly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, the lady's sari almost seems to blend in with surroundings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color should pop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2eKPd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2eKPd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3336" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T00:53:55.630" Title="What is a good color contrast for these pillars" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4127" CreationDate="2018-05-09T00:48:53.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there's already a strong contrast in brightness, or luminosity, as the sari is much darker than the light golden pillars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you want to contrast the hue, then you'll want to find a color on the opposite side of the color wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these yellows and oranges are very warm colors, their opposites will be cool purples and blues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some example color wheels I made. There's thousands out there, and interactive ones where you can select your color and find opposites. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://creationedge.deviantart.com/art/SuperColorWheelMark2-351432688&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVCkIm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add though, that composition isn't always about contrasting colors, but finding complements, as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you can also contrast other elements of color, such as brightness I mentioned earlier, or saturation/chroma which is the intensity of the color. (So, less colorful, more towards grey, is desaturated or lower chroma). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-05-09T00:53:55.630" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T00:53:55.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-11T12:24:31.200" Score="6" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a large second hand poster-size print. It has some slight damage to the sides and a strange stain line across one side (see photos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really like to restore it if possible. I suspect the background was painted with watercolours. I have some experience painting with watercolours and thought maybe I could paint the missing pieces of background as best I could on separate paper and then stick the paper onto the print. (I would try to get the new paper as level with the print as possible but I don't know how I would do that yet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any advice on whether this is a good plan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or has anyone done something similar and able to share tips that would help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nO6p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nO6pm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of damage on corner&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eeAzi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eeAzim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of damage on side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qHpGR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qHpGRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of line on print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Click on images for larger versions&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1385" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T09:22:48.230" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T09:22:48.230" Title="Restoring a poster print using watercolour" Tags="|watercolor|restoration|posters|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4129" CreationDate="2018-05-11T13:22:52.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any pictures, but I once saw a &quot;restored&quot; print technique which amazed me.   The damaged painting was valuable, so the owner didn't want to modify it directly.  So he bought two appropriate sized frames and from their parts assembled a single frame with two sheets of protective glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then with the painting behind a single sheet of glass, he painted his repairs on the glass.  I suppose that the medium was very forgiving because any mistakes could be wiped away before they dry and reattempted as often as needed to get them right.  Eventually, he had the look that he wanted.  He then waited for all the paint to thoroughly dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At which point, he took the painting and glass out of the frame.  Added the second sheet of glass in front of the painted one and reassembled his artwork.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In this way, the repairs on glass are themselves behind glass and the finished work is mostly indistinguishable from the original undamaged work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T13:22:52.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4129" CreationDate="2018-05-12T10:34:58.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don’t think you will ever be able to satisfactorily repair a watercolor painting with this kind of damage. Gluing paper is risky, because you will never be able to match the texture and grain perfectly, which will make the repairs stand out even more. Matching the colors would similarly prove challenging -even for a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see two possibilities. Either use a gouache or acrylic to inpatient the damaged areas and distribute the repair across the painting in order to repair it with a new style. This would require a bit of skill, but is probably what I would do. (Below the green is kind of like what I mean.)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YJYRo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YJYRo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is to take a very high quality photograph, repair the image digitally and have it archivally printed on canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T10:34:58.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2995" CreationDate="2018-05-12T19:28:24.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/MolPVW2EaBY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photo lithography image transfer onto clay&lt;/a&gt;. If you want it to be a bit easier than that, then &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/oBrS6a1c_TE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ceramic decal paper&lt;/a&gt; is another option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4642" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T19:28:24.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-12T21:56:28.920" Score="6" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an fiberglass object, that I want to make a mold of.&#xA;Commonly known is that fiberglass and silicone don't like each other.&#xA;And when I tried to make the mold, I experienced what I expected got a gooey consistency.&#xA;I believe this phenomenon is called cure inhibition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way that I can make it work?&#xA;Or is there a different material that would work (soft molding material)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-05-14T19:14:35.193" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T04:22:12.623" Title="How to make a silicone mold of a fiberglass object?" Tags="|material-selection|mold-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4135" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-05-14T19:16:36.267" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-05-14T19:16:36.267" LastActivityDate="2018-05-14T19:16:36.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4136" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-05-14T19:16:36.267" Score="0" Body="For questions about making, using, and preparing molds used to catch objects. If the question is about a specific type of mold, use that specific tag also, such as [silicone-mold]. For questions about casting from molds, use [casting]." OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T15:47:43.060" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T15:47:43.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1834" CreationDate="2018-05-16T19:44:36.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your style also has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=scratch%20art&amp;amp;num=30&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;scratch art&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; quality, where you take a light colored ground, cover it evenly with india ink, then scratch away your design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T19:44:36.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4140" CreationDate="2018-05-17T15:45:45.313" Score="6" ViewCount="4134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have multiple projects I am working on that are mounted on pieces of wood. I was planning on putting felt on the back of the wood so that they do not scratch the wall when they are hung or mounted to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best adhesive to apply felt to wood?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using either tacky glue or a hot glue gun. Are either of these not suitable for any reason? Is there another adhesive I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T06:22:23.617" Title="What is the best way to apply felt to wood?" Tags="|adhesives|wood|felt|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4139" CreationDate="2018-05-17T16:49:46.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray adhesive is a good match for this application. If you used the lower strength type, you might even have a decent chance of getting the felt back off later if you needed to for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using spray allows you to get an even coat over the entire felt surface, avoiding lumps and/or hard-spots in the finished surface. The hard spots can arise where a glob or line of liquid glue is absorbed by the felt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray adhesive generally has two modes of use, join surfaces while adhesive is wet, or apply to both sides and join surfaces after a drying period. I would go with the former in this case as the wet glue would allow you just a short period to work out any wrinkles. Also, it may reduce the holding strength, which will be much greater than needed anyway. That way if you ever need to remove the felt, you might be able to do it without shredding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scotch-brand 77 is a common choice (pretty high strength though), and even mentions felt on the label: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00114RCP0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00114RCP0/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T16:49:46.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4113" CreationDate="2018-05-17T16:54:54.853" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar need so thought about it more. Welding filler wire ; For TIG welding , these come in about 36&quot; lengths and are easily available at a welding supply shop. They are frequently high alloy ( exotic stainless steel ) and cold worked to high hardness . Problem , the shop may want to sell a bundle of several wires. Another : old external radio antenna for cars ; I don't know any new cars that have them. You should be able to find one at an auto junk yard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T16:54:54.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4139" CreationDate="2018-05-17T16:56:51.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either of the two products you suggest will not wick through to the opposite side of the felt. In that respect, both are suited, but the hot glue would require more care to prevent undesired lumps. Careful thin application may cool/cure too quickly if you have large areas to adhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T16:56:51.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4151" CreationDate="2018-05-19T12:00:21.037" Score="8" ViewCount="681" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I tried to make a simple Tunisian crochet scarf using the &quot;Tunisian Simple Stitch&quot;, the edges of my scarf kept curling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to prevent that while crocheting and is there a way to fix that on a finished product? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4610" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-06-18T15:03:24.543" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T15:03:24.543" Title="How to prevent Tunisian crochet from curling?" Tags="|crocheting|tunisian-crochet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-20T15:14:33.963" Score="6" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7OAy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7OAy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been researching different ways to blacken brass and steel such as with blackening agent, electroplating, etc. I don't know which one I should try to achieve a finish like ones given in the picture, I also want it to get a matte appearance without having to add matte varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4666" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T13:59:48.700" Title="What's the best way to blacken metal jewellery to this quality?" Tags="|metal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3793" CreationDate="2018-05-21T01:25:09.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for, the base for a scratchboard, is &lt;strong&gt;Clayboard&lt;/strong&gt;. It is available in art stores and online... search for art panels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make clayboard a number of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://jimyarbrough.wordpress.com/2010/08/23/how-to-make-your-own-clayboard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jimmy Arborough&lt;/a&gt; site has a recipe for rabbit skin glue based&#xA;ground. Rabbit skin glue is tricky in that it requires hot water, cooling time, and is made out of rabbits. He uses about a 1:1 ratio of water to clay in his recipe. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The white glue and plaster method is popular and easy. Use plaster of paris not drywall compound to get a brighter white. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could also mix kaolin clay or plaster of paris with regular acrylic ground and apply that.  Here start with 1/3:1 ratio of clay to base, adding more clay to get the absorbency/feel you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any of these methods you can whiten the base by adding Titanium White. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a ground, apply it in multiple layers to masonite or heavy paper board in layers, letting each layer dry between applications. You will need a number of layers (5-10) to get the right thickness. If the board warps, try painting the back with an X of the same ground to pull it back into shape. When the board has dried thoroughly, lightly scrape the surface with a knife to remove any blobs or burrs, then sand smooth with a fine grit sandpaper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finish the scratchboard, take a dry and clean clayboard, brush or spray with India Ink, again layering until you have the tone you want. The result should be a smooth hard surface, ready for carving into. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2018-05-21T01:30:38.000" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T01:30:38.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4145" CreationDate="2018-05-21T08:37:32.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gemselect.com/other-info/scratching-the-surface-of-black-metal-jewelry.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reverse image search&lt;/a&gt; suggests that the item of jewellery in that picture is plated in black gold; an alloy made of cobalt and gold. This might be &lt;em&gt;...difficult&lt;/em&gt; to do at home. Let's look at some alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Painting&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably not what you're looking for, but good quality matt black spray paint, sprayed over a decent metal primer coat, will be reasonably durable and very simple at achieve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Oxidating (Bluing)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either apply a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.swdinc.com/blackoxidebasics.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;coating&lt;/a&gt; of an oxidating substance, or oxidate the metal itself - a process known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bluing&lt;/a&gt;. This will give a relatively matt finish, but probably not as matt as you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Anodising&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go for aluminium instead of steel/brass, then you can try &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;anodising&lt;/a&gt; it. Anodising at home is tricky, and the cost of tools is probably more than it's worth if you only want to blacken one or two items, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bryanpryor.com/anodizing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;it is possible&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://astro.neutral.org/anodise_tips.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;It seems to be possible&lt;/a&gt; to get a matt finish when anodising at home&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Powder Coating&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powder coating is very durable, and can be done in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;many colours&lt;/a&gt;, and is &lt;a href=&quot;https://toemat.com/powder-coating/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;doable at home&lt;/a&gt;. Like anodising, it requires some relatively specialised (and expensive) gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Outsourcing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the boring option, but if you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; something doing well and don't know how to do it, or don't have the necessary equipment, it's often possible to pay someone else to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-05-21T16:16:23.710" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T16:16:23.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5495" CreationDate="2018-05-21T22:00:41.147" Score="3" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mainly use Bristol, but it becomes wavy after a few coats of water. I have some regular watercolor paper, but I'm not a fan of the roughness of it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are there other types of watercolor paper I should be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2159" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T23:50:17.353" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T23:50:17.353" Title="Kinds of paper to use with watercolors?" Tags="|paper|painting|watercolor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4144" CreationDate="2018-05-22T09:33:30.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main issue with Tunisian crochet is that, since you don't turn your work, all your tension will be distributed on the same side of your project, with nothing to &quot;balance&quot; it and prevent the curl. Apart from blocking, all the methods suggested to reduce the curl are actually methods to reduce the tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of blog articles and videos dedicated to that topic, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOzmfyIilEk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this pretty useful review from Holly's Crafty Shoebox&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;. From what I've gathered, you should try to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase your crochet size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to reduce your tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;work your fondation row into the back bumps of the foundation chain (as shown on the video)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add a double crochet row &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add a few Tunisian purl stitch rows &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wet blocking your work once finished (not so much efficient if you're working with acrylic yarn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to combine several of these tips for increased efficiency. The woman in the video by instance suggestes combining a bigger hook and working a few Tunisian purl stitch rows at the beginning and end of your project. Let us know if that worked for you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4597" LastEditorUserId="4597" LastEditDate="2018-05-22T10:03:41.740" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T10:03:41.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-05-23T21:09:10.600" Score="3" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make 3d shapes of my own making to stick onto a canvas as a base for a mood board.  Does anyone know what is the best way of going about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2621" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T22:40:11.800" Title="what is best used to &quot;contour&quot; a flat artists canvas" Tags="|adhesives|canvas|papier-mache|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4154" CreationDate="2018-05-23T22:40:11.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option you have, considering that one of your tags is papier-mache, would be to cut cardboard of suitable thickness into shapes which could be stacked to form the contour you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A resource directly related to this concept is software known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://flatfab.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flat Fab&lt;/a&gt;. Even though the software is directed to laser cutting of cardboard and other flat material, one can use it to create prints that can be managed in a manual manner (craft knife, scissors, etc.) if access to a laser cutter is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ImJmj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ImJmj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flat fab image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though this particular image may not fit your requirements, it shows segments of the results of using the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question is tagged with adhesives, yet has no question related to that tag. That would be best addressed in a separate post, if you require adhesive related information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to use molding clay to form your shapes. It would require to create a scaffold or armature within the clay that extends to the back of the formed clay, allowing for a surface on which to apply adhesive to bond to the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably easier to form clay than to cut cardboard, unless you have a laser cutter and you may have greater flexibility with clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T22:40:11.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4171" CreationDate="2018-05-25T13:25:45.317" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very interested in ribbon embroidery but don't have much idea about it.&#xA;Can anyone help me with the type of cloth, needles and ribbon needed to start with embroidery? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4682" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T14:38:53.840" Title="Ribbon embroidery" Tags="|sewing|embroidery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2084" CreationDate="2018-05-25T16:45:38.423" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;organise the build differently .. like, make five donuts and dry them individually. Once dry use slip to glue them together into the combined shape. Then fire the assembly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T16:45:38.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1947" CreationDate="2018-05-25T17:14:07.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you make long links you can extend the existing chain in a way that could be interpreted as &quot;original design&quot; .. by this I mean make two links that are the same flat rings as the chain has, but with a long rod in between .. rod to be of the length needed to extend the chain to the requisite length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as for hanging it length-wise .. an interesting way to hang it with minimal mods to the existing piece .. close the existing chain using a ring at the end of a &quot;long link&quot; but rather than the other end of the long link's rod having another ring .. make the end of it a hook that goes around the top of the square bit with the gem stones in .. and silver solder it to the ring on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to balance the piece so it hangs correctly adjust the length of the horizontal arm of the hook &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0pFnF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0pFnF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;see that the vertical arm is off center? that is to balance the weight to the side attachment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-05-25T17:14:07.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4164" CreationDate="2018-05-29T19:55:16.657" Score="5" ViewCount="13054" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, my question is: &lt;strong&gt;is it possible to make a real life costume in which the eyes of the person wearing it are fully covered with opaque material but the person can still see through it, and if it is possible, how can you do it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of Dead Pool, his eyes are covered with what seem to be white covers that are part of the mask. I imagine this is to conceal his identity but it's never explained how he can see through that thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8Sat.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8Sat.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this even possible to construct at home (say for a Halloween costume)? What material would it have to be for it to be transparent only in one direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4692" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T12:01:05.647" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T12:10:38.513" Title="How can you make a costume with opaque eye covers?" Tags="|costume-design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4161" CreationDate="2018-05-29T21:05:19.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The concept being used in this example is the same as that which is used for perforated vehicle window wraps, frequently used for advertising on buses and business vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this web site, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.businesscards-kansascity.com/uncategorized/perforated-window-vinyl/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Streamline Print and Design&lt;/a&gt;, perforated vinyl is the key:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Perforated vinyl is exactly what the name says, a sheet of vinyl&#xA;  material with a pattern of tiny holes cut through it. There are so&#xA;  many of these holes that a significant amount of the material is&#xA;  removed. The amount of vinyl removed usually ranges from 30 to 50%. &#xA;  For example, 60/40 vinyl, is 60% vinyl and 40% holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Light-colored perforated vinyl signs are opaque when seen from outside&#xA;  a window because our eyes naturally focus on a bright, well-lit&#xA;  surface rather than on the holes and the relative darkness of whatever&#xA;  is behind the surface.  The inner side of perforated vinyl, however,&#xA;  is dark colored.  Here the eye naturally focuses through the dark&#xA;  vinyl to the light and motion outside the window.  Because of this,&#xA;  people inside a store, home or automobile see through the back of the&#xA;  sign to the world outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned a bit of new info from this page. The idea of dark inside and light outside makes sense, but is not necessarily intuitive, especially in the case of masks and eye holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One aspect not covered in vehicle wrapping is that the closer one's eyes are to the holes, the smaller they can be. This can be demonstrated with a piece of black paper and pinholes placed in various patterns and sizes. Peer through the holes and you can see (or not see) that even tiny holes will provide good viewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not unusual to see costumes, specifically sport mascots, with large black gauze panels through which the human bean within will view the surroundings. The gauze is mostly holes, a very small percentage of area which is not holes, but the darkness inside and especially the greater distance from the panel to the human's eyes provides &quot;invisibility&quot; to the crowd. This does not apply in the case of a close-fit mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T21:11:26.780" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T21:11:26.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4161" CreationDate="2018-05-30T01:38:46.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this Lego Batman costume, we covered the eyeholes with white gauze (ok, actually patches cut from some old pantyhose). Vision was only very slightly reduced -- much more so by the small eye openings (and loss of peripheral vision) than by the gauze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hn1L0m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hn1L0m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T01:38:46.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4161" CreationDate="2018-05-30T08:58:33.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theatrical use on a larger scale, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrim_(material)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;scrim&lt;/a&gt; is used for this sort of thing.  It's a fairly open-weave fabric.  Unless black, it reflects light when illuminated from the same side as the viewer, but transmits light to the dark side.  Black scrim is often used in the eyes (or mouth) of character suits so the occupant can see out.  You can see quite clearly through it from close up, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/StockingMask&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bank robber's stocking mask (TV tropes)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the term &lt;em&gt;scrim&lt;/em&gt; refers to quite a lot of fabrics, so you need to be careful.  I thought you might find offcuts on eBay, but instead came across &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lovely-Soft-Feel-Natural-Linen-Look-Ribbon-10-25-40mm-Scrim-Hessian-Rustic/301608064547?var=600490303973&amp;amp;hash=item46393dd623:m:mBGwFWkGLhVtQcKodHU1K7Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;something in ribbon form&lt;/a&gt; that might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option that is inherently silver or gold  rather than white is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_blanket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;space blanket&lt;/a&gt;.  Most space blankets, and even &quot;foil&quot; crisp (US:chip) packets are only semi-silvered because the layer of aluminium is so thin.  You could see out  through them if outside was brightly lit and inside completely dark.  If you want to do this, it's best to gently stretch the material so it's smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option (again shiny) would be to glue the lenses of mirrored sunglasses onto the inside of the helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scrim has the advantage of providing some ventilation as well, though eye holes are small enough that it probably doesn't make much diference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2018-05-30T14:05:00.580" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T14:05:00.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4149" CreationDate="2018-05-30T12:09:38.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is a watercolour paper  by crawford and blake.  There is also different gsm's too. Also another one called Bockingford 300gsm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4694" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T12:09:38.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4174" CreationDate="2018-05-31T20:23:12.270" Score="3" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m currently working on an art project and came to a barrier. I need to implement a third color that is asssociated with one another based on the color wheel and color theory, to these colors as shown in the picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ABbIO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of artwork; print&quot;&gt;&#xA;(It’s a print) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking a light, lime green could achieve this; however, I’m uncertain and some second thoughts could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4699" LastActivityDate="2022-10-09T16:31:40.143" Title="Need advice on a color that matches this color theory" Tags="|color|color-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2018-06-17T15:17:25.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-01T13:53:00.033" Score="5" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular term for style of illustration found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/198773/codenames-pictures&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Codenames: Pictures&lt;/a&gt; cards, and/or is there a term for the subject matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd like a term, or phrase, or something to describe the subject matter specifically -- this weird combination of everyday objects, like the butterflies coming out of the steam of a teapot, the ice cream cone with the 8-ball, the briefcase with the house inside, the fish on the hamster wheel, or the snowman-bee thing with the flower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N4HJ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N4HJ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Codenames: Pictures board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHG8l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHG8l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;another Codenames: Pictures board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4698" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T20:23:28.797" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T20:23:28.797" Title="Is there a name for this style and/or &quot;subject matter&quot; of art?" Tags="|style-identification|illustration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4157" CreationDate="2018-06-01T14:38:53.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you to use Caneva hand sewing needles with dull tip. Also, a ribbon of about 0.7 mm is easy to handle. Take a look at ideas on Pinterest (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pinterest.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;), usually, they have DIY ideas and tutorials&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4703" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T14:38:53.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4169" CreationDate="2018-06-02T03:25:11.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Color theory is not the same as color science. The color wheel is more properly &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; color wheel - as in one of many, because there are very, very many competing systems of color. Since you are speaking neither scientifically nor semantically, and we have neither insight into your cultural background - nor the ability to look at your version of light, lime green, all we can offer is color sociology, as the last domain standing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Choose the color you take because you liked it.&lt;/strong&gt; If someone tells you that a color is wrong based on a system of gradients that somebody (probably not them) mapped to a circular shape like a pie-chart, politely remind them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prevailing 18th and 19th century German color theory for example, showed that both Goethe and Itten made their respective color theories “contemporary” with radically different systems. From a sociological perspective both were right, from a scientific perspective both were wrong. Outside of their cultural epoch, these systems reveal themselves as methods for telling us more about the people than about colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to @creationEdge’s comment about the quote (from myself above), the so-called “artist’s color wheel” as we know it today is a remnant of the teachings of the Bauhaus in Weimar that were regurgitated by that school’s “Meister”, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johannes_Itten&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Johannes Itten&lt;/a&gt;, in 1973 and successfully (as the comments to this response show) introduced as a method of indoctrinating a culturally (not scientifically) defined color-theory to art students.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is his work:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s4ZlB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s4ZlB.png&quot; alt=&quot;ittens farbkreis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It reflected pseudo-futurist sentiments about the salvation of humanity through technology and the very German distribution of interconnectedness through “specialization”. My main critique of this “system” is that mixing opposing colors (red and green, blue and orange etc.) should produce black, but it invariably creates a muddy brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of brown, the famous polymath Goethe also designed a color-wheel, and although the natural pigments he used have faded with time’s passage, his (and Schiller’s) work reflected their cultural dependence on nature as opposed to technology. This is his color wheel from 1810:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1jXy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1jXy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Goethe's color wheel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as very thoroughly described on Wikipedia (although the German version is written much better) here we can see through to Goethe’s intention of anthropocentric color theory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8fBU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8fBU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Goethe's colored emotions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone wants you to believe that some color has a “universal” meaning outside of culture, show them this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ABwo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ABwo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Found on Reddit&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For insight into a parallel from computer science about how training bias can go too far in education (which is the entire point of this response to your question), feel free to read this article. Although not specifically about color, it speaks about the perils of training sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.com/news/technology-44040008&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bbc.com/news/technology-44040008&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the answer? Don’t trust your art teachers, because they learned a skewed theory of color. If you need to have a scientific explanation for colors, I recommend considering the complete spectrum of color including both reflected and projected light. The full spectrum includes eight colors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magenta&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-10-09T16:31:40.143" LastActivityDate="2022-10-09T16:31:40.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2018-06-02T23:43:30.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did this - I wanted to make thick business cards myself, but my printer won't print on any paper thicker than regular copy paper. So I printed my card template out on regular paper and then used &lt;strong&gt;iron-on sewing interfacing&lt;/strong&gt; (Wonder Under) to glue it to thick watercolor paper. No bubbles, looks great - made some cards with one layer of 110 pound paper and one with 2 layers of 110 pound paper and one layer of colored cardstock in the middle - here's a pic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NWbcO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4705" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-06-03T14:24:11.760" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T14:24:11.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4169" CreationDate="2018-06-03T09:33:22.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is based simply on classic color theory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're currently using two colors, and want to add a third. So, using color theory would involve choosing the third color based on the relationship of the first two to one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the coral orange and dusty purple (based on my screen) are about 1/4 of the &quot;wheel&quot; away from one another, there's really two color schemes that fit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Light, lime green fits in with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paletton.com/#uid=42n0V0kllCGbzRBh8JIpWvPupr9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;triadic color scheme&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A rose pink could fit in quite nicely with an analogous scheme. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triadic color schemes have 3 colors that split the color wheel into equal thirds. Closely related is the split complementary theme, where two of the colors are adjacent to the complement of another. In my example, you'd be using a blend of both. Your first two colors aren't so close together that the complement of the lime green, rose pink, is actually adjacent to them. That's why it's more of a triadic color scheme, despite not being a perfectly even split around the color wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The analogous scheme is using three colors that are near each other, the &quot;outer&quot; two (on the wheel) about the same distance from the center color. That's how I arrived at my rose pink suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to remember that there's room to play, and color theory can be used to develop rich palettes with many distinct colors, even if it's only three base colors from the wheel. And the color you pick can affect the mood or tone you're trying to set in your work. Consider the difference it would make shifting the lime green closer to yellow or green. Or making the light green even lighter, or darker, which would add contrast of brightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick example palette with the four colors discussed (roughly), as generated from the link I provided to Palleton (a simple interactive color wheel with built-in scheme options).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkSrn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkSrn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T09:33:22.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-05T18:42:49.927" Score="9" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a moss stitch knit baby blanket with Hobbycraft's In The Zone tubular yarn, which is 100% polyester. I've come to the end of my first skein and I'm struggling to figure the best way to join the strands together to continue my work so it doesn't create a bump from a knot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually use the Invisible knot technique with regular fibre yarn, but because this yarn isn't &quot;yarn&quot; in the traditional sense, tying it together in this way still creates a knot which would be noticeable in a knitted blanket (I find them easier to hide in crocheting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've scoured YouTube and tried a method for tubular/tape yarn, but because this stuff has kind of a poly filling in it, this method didn't work either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo has a diagonal cross-section of the end of a strand so you can get an idea of its composition. I would be grateful for any advice on this! =)&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FfIye.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4715" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-03-01T00:36:29.123" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T00:36:57.413" Title="How do I join polyester tubular yarn skeins together?" Tags="|knitting|technique-identification|yarn|knots|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4177" CreationDate="2018-06-06T08:49:42.120" Score="2" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a floor/plateau in a glass terrarium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dwarf hamster will use it, so they're not very heavy, but I'd like to be able to place some things like a small food dish, maybe some decoration etc on the plateau.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial idea was to use aquarium sealant to secure the plateau. I would then use a max of 1-2 pillars per plateau. I would prefer to have 3 plateaus at 3 different levels, connected with stairs/bridges. &lt;strong&gt;Will a minimal amount of pillars and the aquarium sealant be enough to hold it up securely?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can sealant like silicone/aquarium be removed without leaving too many traces on the glass?&lt;/strong&gt; A few scratches I can deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The layout will be somewhat like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1Lfa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1Lfa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excuse my great drawing skills, I hope this explains what I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T09:10:39.383" Title="Attaching wood to glass?" Tags="|adhesives|glass|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4176" CreationDate="2018-06-06T09:10:39.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things to consider: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wood may soak up water and then swell, and glass terrariums/aquariums are not infinitely sturdy, so try not to have a straight piece of wood reaching from one pane to the opposite pane (your layout looks fine itr). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I you have an L-shaped glueing area (i.e. a platform plus a ramp, fitted together as one unit (the L being along-and-up) or a platform in a corner (the L being along-both-panes)) any silicone should be able to carry your platform and your hamster. So you could have the two edge platforms and then an assembly of the middle platform well-attached to the two ramps. No pillars needed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone can be removed from flat and non-iced glass perfectly with a razorblade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4718" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T09:10:39.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2074" CreationDate="2018-06-06T14:13:03.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the Geami Wrappak by Ranpak industries. It's an ecofriendly packaging solution made of die cut kraft paper and tissue paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4721" LastActivityDate="2018-06-06T14:13:03.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2018-06-06T16:40:21.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, in the meantime, I'm trying something a bit different... It's not the neatest sewing job, but I've managed to sew the strands together, doing a basic up and down through the middle (with the strands overlapping each other) and then looping over and under each side to hold it together on the sides as well. At least this way, there's no big knot and it feels pretty sturdy. ‍♀️&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYvCX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYvCX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stitched together&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one side of what it looks like worked in with a few rows done extra...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/07c0G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/07c0G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;And here's the other side of the work. Maybe in future, I will sew together a smaller section and snip the excess, as even though the bit I sewed was only about 1cm, it's still a bit noticeable... Though probably still less so than if it was knotted. I'll try to do maybe half a cm next time (tricky!) and if I succeed, I will post back again! In the meantime, if anyone else has any other suggestions, I will gladly receive them! =) &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OI8Ne.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OI8Ne.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4715" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-03-01T00:36:57.413" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T00:36:57.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4170" CreationDate="2018-06-08T08:12:49.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree, &amp;quot;Clip Art&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Graphic Arts&amp;quot; would seem an appropriate answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, they might be described as &amp;quot;icons&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;avatars&amp;quot; in another usage. Again, the answer to this question is perhaps largely a factor of where the clips are used, what they are being used for and how they are included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lovely &amp;quot;quirky&amp;quot; humorous flavour to them. They could be used in a &amp;quot;satirical&amp;quot; way, or perhaps just as a &amp;quot;quirky&amp;quot; or even &amp;quot;geeky&amp;quot; personal avatar by different people. I actually like them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4726" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T07:31:11.840" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T07:31:11.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3924" CreationDate="2018-06-08T08:31:00.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;as described, they are a set of &quot;Drawings&quot; usually meaning more formal in style and presentation. Drawings would describe these as being &quot;works of art&quot; in their own right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they were roughed out, like quickly drawn items, the term &quot;Sketch&quot; would probably apply. These may still be appreciated as &quot;works of art&quot; especially if related to paintings or sculptures produced as a result of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third category might be &quot;Diagrams.&quot; This would apply to drawings of a more technical nature, describing a method and style of something to be considered with a view to future use to produce the item. A Technical Diagram&quot; is an even more apt term, if it is indeed strictly to a scale and accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a similar way, a Diagram might also be a &quot;Map&quot; of how to get from one place to another (literally or metaphorically.) A &quot;Rough Sketch&quot; or &quot;Mud Map&quot; &#xA;would describe something the same, but of a lot less in scale and accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, there are so many ways to describe things, and the terminology can change dramatically, according to language, culture and geography. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4726" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T08:31:00.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5343" CreationDate="2018-06-08T20:17:09.787" Score="2" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am passionate about (young) man portraiture and I am myself trying to create acrylic portraits and therefore I am trying to learn this art from youtube videos. Unfortunately there are almost no acrylic (young) man portrait videos and therefore I am watching oil painting videos. My question is - what are differences between oil and acrylic painting techniques as can be learned from videos? Of course, I know the necessary things about differences in both mediums (no need to repeat them here), but is it possible to learn acrylic painting from watching oil painting videos and what differences should I take into account?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2461" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T05:04:32.963" Title="Are acrylic painting tutorial videos different from oil painting videos?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-09T22:38:53.477" Score="7" ViewCount="2362" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drawings drawn with graphite shine a lot under even a little light. The paper needs to be held at certain angle for proper viewing. Anyway to reduce or stop this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2756" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T19:42:25.777" Title="How to stop or reduce graphite from reflecting light?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|charcoal|graphite|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-10T10:25:09.920" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a A8 notebook (52mm x 74mm) with about 50 sheets or more, but I'm not sure which binding would be the most suitable to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally use the Japanese binding for my A4 notebooks but I don't think it would be the best choice for something as small as A8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to keep it as simple as possible, since I don't have proper bookbinding tools (and the suggestions I've found on the internet all require some sort of bookbinding tools for a decent result).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cover material doesn't matter (although I'd probably go for transparency sheets, since I have some around). As long as I can turn the pages and use a good amount of their space anything would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4732" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T23:52:14.160" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T23:52:14.160" Title="What would be a good way to bind a A8 notebook?" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4186" CreationDate="2018-06-10T15:14:17.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray fixative should make the drawing more matte as well as protecting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try a layer of acrylic matte medium, sprayed or brushed, but that would be a little more involved and riskier to the original work if it cannot handle the wet medium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way do some test pieces before trying on the finished work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also would recommend drawing with a softer lead for dark areas, it will require less working and less material to get the tone you want, which means less buildup and less gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T15:14:17.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4185" CreationDate="2018-06-10T16:02:07.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of youtube videos (and other sources) on painting portraits in acrylic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may just have to look at other body types while you are learning and once you have the skills to work on your own you can paint the subjects you are interested in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences between the mediums is pretty profound. However theories of composition, the use of color, and the use of light and shadow to model form would apply to all mediums. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2018-07-18T21:25:03.927" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T21:25:03.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4186" CreationDate="2018-06-10T19:42:25.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a type of spray that is often used by film production teams called “dulling spray”. It is a spray that kills reflections on anything, because in movies you DO NOT WANT HIGHLIGHTS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spray is expensive and quite a challenge to come by, as the best sprays are only distributed by photography and film equipment rental shops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do use it, always spray very light coats - and definitely do a test on another piece of paper before you risk ruining your work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T19:42:25.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="134" CreationDate="2018-06-11T01:53:23.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If right-handed knitting, lay your right pointer finger tip on the needle while casting on each stitch to make sure there's a space between the stitches. Then spin the needle clockwise all the way around before casting on each stitch. I got this from the &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Learn the Elastic Cast-On with Knitting Expert Patty Lyons!&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; video on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nA3CFC2MYDY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nA3CFC2MYDY&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, if you need a stretchy bind-off that's done in a similar way, try &lt;strong&gt;Lori's Twisty Bind Off&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continental style: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWS77BKk5NQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWS77BKk5NQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;English style: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31nfF5pG-8I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31nfF5pG-8I&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T01:53:23.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4108" CreationDate="2018-06-11T02:18:43.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Arne and Carlos have a video on how to recycle little bits of leftover yarn and using it as stuffing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kogj9fSNqv4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kogj9fSNqv4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They demonstrated brushing small amounts of leftover yarn back and forth between two carders (big wire brushes) until the fibers came apart and softened and it all turned into a fluffy blob of soft material suitable for use as stuffing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They recommend using wool and said that cotton is too hard. No mention was made of acrylic or nylon or any other materials that yarn can be made of. I would think that any fiber would soften and fluff if worked enough, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you don't have to buy official carders to do this. Pet brushes would work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastEditorUserId="4733" LastEditDate="2018-06-12T00:10:57.857" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T00:10:57.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4185" CreationDate="2018-06-11T11:34:18.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt; - Acrylic and oil paints create different effects on the canvas, they are blended differently, and they dry at much different speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic painting techniques are different styles of manipulating and working with polymer-based acrylic paints. These types of paint eliminate the need for turpentine and gestapo, and can be applied directly onto canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some tips for ** &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.showflipper.com/blog/5-Oil-Painting-Tips-For-Beginners&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oil Painting&lt;/a&gt;**.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4734" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-06-14T21:28:05.920" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T21:28:05.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2018-06-11T18:14:39.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tends to happen to my work when I work in the round. I haven't tried blocking my work before but with this info I may try it....I usually just make sure my work is flat and put something heavy on it for awhile and that usually works for me for awhile...obviously it would depend on the projects! But for coasters it works great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4736" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T18:14:39.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-11T19:58:24.270" Score="2" ViewCount="5726" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of glue should I use to glue sea shells to steel and sea shells to stone?  These will  be displayed outside.  I have tried a hot glue gun but it doesn't do well outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4737" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T08:23:44.987" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T08:23:44.987" Title="Which glue should I use to bond sea shells to steel and/or stone?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-06-23T13:35:15.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4196" CreationDate="2018-06-11T22:22:28.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how ‘shock-proof’ you need it to be, you have a couple options: silicon or epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicon is a bit more flexible, so if people or pets are going to be touching it, then this is what I would recommend. It is waterproof and really sticky until it dries. My advice is to get the transparent type used in bathrooms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two-part epoxy is theoretically stronger, but it might actually be too strong and might not bond well-enough with the steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T22:22:28.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4196" CreationDate="2018-06-11T23:00:47.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever glue you use on steel, the preparation is extremely important to maximize the bond strength. The science behind it has to do with surface energy and other cool phenomena, but the gist of it is if you scrub the metal with Comet (yes, the old-school powdered bathroom cleanser) you'll get the best possible bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test for whether you've succeeded in &lt;em&gt;activating&lt;/em&gt; the surface is to place a drop of water on it. If it beads up, you've got more work to do. If it spreads out, you're ready to go. Don't touch the surface after scrubbing it. Just rinse it thoroughly and leave it to dry or hot air dry it if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this before epoxy, the bond will be all but unbreakable. There are other acrylic adhesives that will also bond well to metal, and polyurethane glues etc. There are a lot of other considerations like visual appearance, flexibility, having-some-around-already, etc. that can narrow your choices, but proper preparation will make a lot of things work that wouldn't work at all otherwise. I bet you'd get surprising performance from white glue (Elmers) with good preparation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't say about the stone, from personal experience anyway, but I expect a good scrub with Comet will go a long way with that substrate as well. The conventional wisdom of using solvents to clean with might improve the surface, but will always leave behind a micro-layer of hydrocarbons (oils) that interfere with bonding. These contaminants get on everything exposed to air, so you don't have to necessarily handle the item to contaminate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunlight (UV rays) will degrade many adhesives over time, so that's another thing to consider. I expect most epoxies would hold up a long time on that count, although of course they're not the most convenient to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T23:00:47.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4145" CreationDate="2018-06-12T00:12:17.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High quality: PVD titanium Nitride or, more shiny, diamond-Like carbon or black rhodium deposit. These are shiny on shiny metals but not on matte (I.E. sandblasted) metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low quality: black oxide, black galvanic chromium or black galvanic nickel (but don't use nickel for skin contact)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium only: black anodizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cannot be done at home, well... galvanic treatments and anodizing could but they have some security concerns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at home you can use a high quality shiny paint or black glazing for ceramics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-06-17T13:59:48.700" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T13:59:48.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="138" CreationDate="2018-06-12T00:18:50.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a so small blade the best is to use a grinding stone. If it is very blunt you will have to start with a coarse grain and finish with a fine one. It will take a long time... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blades generally have a 15° angle on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V shapeners are quicker but use it with care. Some cuts a lot of steel at once if you push too much. Also it maybe not the easiest to use with a tiny blade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T00:18:50.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-12T00:25:45.303" Score="3" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;What steels are best for all-round knife making (i.e. not for any special applications)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon steels, 420C, 440C, VG10, RWL34, Damasteel... There are a lot of options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T10:42:06.467" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T01:31:47.297" Title="Which steels are most suitable for knife making?" Tags="|metalworking|metal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4196" CreationDate="2018-06-12T00:57:15.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Transparent epoxy used for jewellery shall do the job. However this is to be tested for this specific case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surfaces have to be cleaned. You can use alcool for this. Scratching the surfaces also help. Ensure the surfaces are dry afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T00:57:15.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4201" CreationDate="2018-06-12T01:14:17.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine would go to Sandvik 14C28N, Nitrocut NCV60 or similar steels with medium Carbon content and &gt;0,1 Nitrogen. Always taken for a high quality manufacturer because chemical composition is far from making the quality of a steel alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Relatively stainless in most environments except sea or underwater.   Lower maintenance than Carbon Steel and safer for food contact.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Easy to sharpen. Gives a fine edge thanks to Nitrogen. Holds quite well an edge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Quite low prices given the quality level.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course a powder metallurgy RWL34 and others very high hardness steels will hold and edge longer. But this is a lot of cost for a small performance improvement. It is also harder to resharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have to work on a boat or going into rivers these steels will not do the job for long. Knife steels rust very fast. I would go to modified versions with &gt;0,2 Nitrogen and &gt;1 Molybdenum. Bohler N680 is a good reference. This type of steel is also a good option for food contact intensive uses like chief knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T01:14:17.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4187" CreationDate="2018-06-12T10:35:04.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up using the coptic binding and it went surprisingly well. The only thing about it is that (unlike the Japanese binding) it needs something to hold the notebook close (but it has 8 x A4 sections, after all). It seems that, being similar to the coptic binding in a way, the section sewn hardcover binding would have also been a good choice. Contrary to what I previously thought, not having special tools does not seem to matter for the final result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4741" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T10:35:04.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4208" CreationDate="2018-06-12T15:29:34.593" Score="4" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an animatronic alien inside a transparent plastic cylinder. The cylinder is filled with water and a few drops of green ink. The problem I have is: in a few days, the water fills with algae and becomes moldy. I have tried some mixtures (water plus white vinegar, water plus alcohol, water plus chlorine) and although the water last longer clean, the ink always reacts with the vinegar/alcohol/chlorine and the green color dissappears or becomes an awful brownish. Do you know any way to keep green water without fungi or algae? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4744" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T20:09:01.827" Title="How can I avoid fungus in an alien water tank?" Tags="|preservation|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4207" CreationDate="2018-06-12T20:09:01.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you're making something rather like a specimen in a jar, so why not do it &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amnh.org/our-research/natural-science-collections-conservation/general-conservation/health-safety/fluid-preserved-specimens/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the way the professionals do it&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;strong&gt;pure ethanol or isopropyl alcohol?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the jar is properly sealed, this should keep your alien fluid in pristine condition for centuries to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this may be overkill. If you do a &lt;a href=&quot;http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/brewing-preperations/sanitation/sanitizing-your-equipment&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;decent job of sterilising&lt;/a&gt; the jar beforehand (I recommend the kind of steriliser used for brewing), boil the water beforehand and seal the jar properly, then even without additions the inside of the jar should stay bacteria/fungi/mould/algae free for months or years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-06-12T20:09:01.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3472" CreationDate="2018-06-12T23:13:38.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are low on budget, you can try to use materials from very different sources and not related directly to model building. For example: the milk carton is very resistant, and can be easily cut and shaped. The cardboard cylinder inside the toilet papers is very useful to make columns, so any other cylinder inside the aluminum foil or kitchen supplies alike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transparent plastic containers (like bottles) are great for windows in your model, and you can create a paste with toilet paper, cornmeal and water to build irregular forms. You can download from the internet paper models of the furniture, cars, trucks and different elements in your model, just google &quot;pepakura&quot;. For example this: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=pepakura%20cars&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwj5hYr_ns_bAhVGAqwKHazsDuEQ_AUICigB&amp;amp;biw=1510&amp;amp;bih=682&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pepakura cars&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way you can have very good looking elements in your model at just the cost of a printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, any cloth or rag properly painted can be a good artistic roof. And, well, basically just look around and look for hidden materials in all the things you already have (soda cans, can lids, cardboard boxes, food containers, etc...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4744" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-06-13T21:14:20.273" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T21:14:20.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4042" CreationDate="2018-06-13T22:19:52.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another term that is relevant is yarn dyed. A plaid can be &quot;dyed in the wool&quot; ie the yarn or thread is dyed before weaving or a plaid design can be printed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of interesting patterns that can be created in the weaving process and many ethnic traditions. Ikat or tie dying the thread before weaving is another technique used to create pattern that has been used around the world. Weaving is pretty complicated, you might like checking out some books on different techniques and loom types or the history of weaving. &quot;Hand weaving&quot; might also be a good search term if you are interested in ethnic traditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4748" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T22:19:52.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4170" CreationDate="2018-06-13T23:23:13.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would classify these as surrealist graphic icons, maybe? There are definitely simplified elements of surrealism here. If you find this style interesting though, and your goal is to immerse yourself in similar images, try your hand at these searches:&#xA;Simple iconography, &#xA;Simple surrealism, &#xA;Line art illustrations, &#xA;Vintage illustrations, &#xA;Vintage surrealism, &#xA;Vintage instructional art... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say instructional, because there is quite a bit of interesting and simple art that has been produced in the style of small, easily digestible cards and pages. You might like what you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, I could be totally off base! Either way, happy art hunting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4749" LastActivityDate="2018-06-13T23:23:13.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4214" CreationDate="2018-06-15T22:29:08.667" Score="1" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an artist in Buffalo named &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davepollot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dave Pollot&lt;/a&gt; who takes famous paintings or works of art and inserts characters or cartoons in them to make them funny. I got this one for my husband:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97bIJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leveled Up&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know a lot about art or video games, but I do know this is Link from the Ocarina of Time, a game my husband likes. I'm thinking of getting him a framed print of this because I think he'd like it. But I don't know enough to know why this is funny or ironic like the artist's other works. Can someone help me out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4757" LastEditorUserId="4758" LastEditDate="2018-06-17T13:58:04.283" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T05:06:30.220" Title="Why is this painting with Link from Ocarina of Time funny or ironic?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-06-16T18:45:14.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4213" CreationDate="2018-06-16T05:05:23.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't consider it &quot;funny&quot;. More interesting or &quot;cool&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Dave Pollot's website, the title of the painting is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.davepollot.com/product/leveledup-prints-new/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leveled Up&lt;/a&gt;. It features Link, from The Legend of Zelda, riding a horse with Navi over a reproduction of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Napoleon_Crossing_the_Alps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Napoleon Crossing the Alps&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notably, Napolean refused to sit for the original set of paintings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sit? For what good? Do you think that the great men of Antiquity for whom we have images sat? ... It isn't the exactness of the features, a wart on the nose which gives the resemblance. It is the character that dictates what must be painted... Nobody knows if the portraits of the great men resemble them, it is enough that their genius lives there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Link version effectively captures the spirit of the originals, since Napolean's posture of victory is one modern viewers would associate with having just leveled up. If Jacques-Louis David had been a truly daring man, he might have painted something similar while attempting to convince Napolean to sit for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4758" LastEditorUserId="4758" LastEditDate="2019-08-27T05:06:30.220" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T05:06:30.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4216" CreationDate="2018-06-16T18:04:38.423" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a female port (slightly larger than a USB port) from an old obsolete device. I would like to use the female port I currently have to make a mold for the male version. I have some ideas for adding the metal contacts to make it functional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current strategy is to use a product such as Oomoo 35 to make a silicon mold of the female port. This first mold will contain the shape of the male part I want (but will be too soft to use on its own). I will cut away any part of the mold that I don't need and use what is left to create a second mold, where I can then cast the actual male part in a hard material or resin as many times as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never created a silicon mold before so I'm curious if that is a reasonable approach for what I'm trying to achieve. Can I use Oomoo/silicon again for the second mold or do I need to use a different material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any particular name for what I'm trying to achieve? I've been searching for strategies to this problem but I must not be using the correct query.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4759" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T11:09:21.940" Title="How can I make a male object from a female reference object using a mold?" Tags="|mold-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4215" CreationDate="2018-06-17T11:09:21.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your technique should work, &lt;em&gt;as long as&lt;/em&gt; the male is a fairly close negative of the female. If that's the case, then your first mould (of the female part) will be the correct shape for the male part, and can act as what's known as a &lt;strong&gt;master&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're not exact negatives of each other (in your case, I expect the male connector to be slightly smaller than the female port so it will fit easily, for example) then you'll need to alter this cast until it's the correct shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find it easier to cast the first mould (the male bit) in a harder material for alteration, before making another mould of the altered casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From then, you can follow the normal procedure and make a mould of this master so you can reproduce it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone can be used to make moulds of silicone objects, but you will need to be very careful when applying &lt;strong&gt;mould release agent&lt;/strong&gt; to prevent the two pieces from bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-06-17T11:09:21.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4220" CreationDate="2018-06-18T07:05:40.187" Score="-1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know how to draw, but I really want to create my own manga.&#xA;Please tell me if the following approach is acceptable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a simple storyboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gradually master the drawing skills, based on those drawings that&#xA;are presented in the storyboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gradually draw a manga on the storyboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4761" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T13:27:45.900" Title="Learning to draw manga" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-06-21T13:12:46.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4219" CreationDate="2018-06-18T13:27:45.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of books on this subject matter. Check out your local library or online/brick and mortar book sellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some I would recommend are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/Making-Comics-Storytelling-Secrets-Graphic/dp/0060780940/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1529327679&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=scott%20mccloud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making Comics: Storytelling Secrets of Comics, Manga and Graphic Novels by Scott McCloud&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/156970970X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shoujo Manga Techniques: Writing Stories by Mako Itsuki&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also plenty of how to tutorials on youtube and on various blogs around the Internet to check as well. Check a few different sources so you vary the information you pick; it's not good to only go to one source for information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any artists you like (on deviantart, tumblr, web comic artists or actual published artists) feel free to reach out and contact them. I'm sure they'd be happy to share their techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to think about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How are you going to circulate your story? Do you plan on selling hard copies or distribute as a web comic? Or is it just for your entertainment?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need to learn how to draw not just people but objects, environments, perspective and proportions. Optional things to learn are coloring, screen toning, shading, animals and chibi style&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some people recommend drawing daily / frequently just to improve your skill. Like any other skill, the more you do it, the better you get.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other artists recommend learning to draw realistically / using a realistic style first, and then stylize. Others say to just continue practicing your style until it develops/solidifies. Pick whichever is best for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and happy drawing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T13:27:45.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4221" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-06-18T15:04:12.610" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-06-18T15:04:12.610" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T15:04:12.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4222" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-06-18T15:04:12.610" Score="0" Body="Style of crochet using a single hooked needle, while keeping an entire row of stitches held open on the needle" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-06-18T15:04:12.610" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T15:04:12.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-18T17:58:32.900" Score="11" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Patrick Rothfuss' novel &lt;em&gt;The Wise Man's Fear&lt;/em&gt;, the main character briefly mentions that he has a way of folding a letter to be its own envelope in such a way that it is not possible to reopen the envelope/letter without tearing it, giving a method of secure communication without sealing wax or similar. Does such a folding method actually exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some experimenting myself, and some searching online, but the closest I've found are envelope designs that don't need tape/glue to stay closed. Nothing I've found has the key property of being impossible (or at least very difficult) to unfold again without tearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4763" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T19:15:03.763" Title="Irreversible Origami Envelope" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-19T09:54:01.073" Score="7" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I try to get the center pull of a commercial skein of yarn, it ends up tangling and I just have to untangle the whole ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any tips for a better center pull?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4610" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T15:53:19.210" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T07:39:12.743" Title="How to get the perfect center pull?" Tags="|crocheting|knitting|yarn|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-19T23:21:54.517" Score="4" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in making books myself for my child and for holiday gifts. ; I want to do it all myself and avoid going through a commercial printer. What sort of printer would I need to accomplish this? Would I have to print and then bind the pages afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to make colored children's books like Sandra Boynton board books. I have seen numerous third party services offering to do &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pintsizeproductions.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;  but I would like to attempt something in house. I do not mind spend a few hundred on printer but I cannot find any information on one that could put an image on thick boardstock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-03-10T05:21:16.667" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T05:21:16.667" Title="What home printer is capable of printing on board book pages" Tags="|printing|book-binding|cardboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2018-06-19T23:29:02.217" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not impossible to open without tearing, and requiring cuts as well as folds (which disqualifies the method as origami to an origami purist), there is a form of letterlocking that involves cutting a thin strip from the blank margin of the letter, folding the letter, and then punching holes through the letter with an awl, and threading the strip through the holes in an interlocking knot-like pattern, which would make it very difficult to open the letter without tearing the thin delicate strip of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://vimeo.com/189348055&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://vimeo.com/189348055&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://letterlocking.org/categories&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://letterlocking.org/categories&lt;/a&gt; states that this blank margin method of letterlocking was &quot;used by Queen Elizabeth I of England, Mary Queen of Scots, Catherine DeMedici, and many others.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T23:29:02.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4226" CreationDate="2018-06-20T00:54:29.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've not provided much in the way of your available equipment and skills, and the task you've set for yourself has substantial supporting requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A book press is top of the list. You can build your own, with appropriate research, tools and materials, or you can purchase one to fit your needs. A book press is used to compress paper pages, but can also be used to apply pressure to the book board into the print surface after ink is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0FlZ4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0FlZ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;book press&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you want to print and bind the pages yourself? That's a separate question from the title question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would not be able to print a &quot;board&quot; page with a conventional paper printer, which then requires something like old-style letterpress type. If you do a search on eBay, for example, using &quot;wood type&quot; you'll get a lot of (possibly expensive) results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilier.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilier.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wood type&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the less expensive side for this form of printing is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Linoleum-Block-Printing-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linoleum block printing&lt;/a&gt;. This can be fun, as it can be more free-form if you've any talent as an artist. The block surface is cut away where printing is not done (in reverse) and inked, pressed and peeled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link above points to an Instructable with some very well done artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add a touch of high tech, one can laser engrave special rubber in a similar manner. This results in precise, sharp designs of any intricacy and detail, but adds complexity and expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Zh5x.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Zh5x.gif&quot; alt=&quot;laser rubber stamp material&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the process of collecting these images, I was amused to see how many of them are not mirror images. It's important to have them flipped, otherwise the print becomes reversed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ADDENDUM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$20K will buy a whole lot of silk screen supplies which can do full color with proper photosensitive screen layout. You can do CMYK separation with almost any graphics editor, even a free one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your images aren't too complex, screen printing will work, be less expensive and possible more fun if you're doing it with family members. You print an image on inkjet film, layer it on a photosensitive screen, expose to light, wash away the unexposed areas, then force ink through the mesh onto the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://anatol.com/blog/what-you-need-to-know-about-four-color-process-screen-printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;multicolor aspect&lt;/a&gt; does make things more interesting, as you'd have additionally registration marks and photographs would be out of the question, but blocky full color cartoon/comic type images would be easily accomplished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite a project you've presented. I wish you all the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T18:16:35.113" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T18:16:35.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-20T19:34:32.783" Score="7" ViewCount="26197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an equivalent to Armour Etch (used in glass etching) for acrylic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to etch some text onto an acrylic sheet but I do not have access to a laser engraver. Sanding seems to be a common approach for achieving the frosted look on acrylic, but I don't see how I can use that approach to etch elaborate text... With a cream like Armour Etch, it is easy to just mask out the pattern and apply the cream...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4407" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T22:21:12.363" Title="Chemically etch (frost) acrylic (plexiglass)?" Tags="|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4226" CreationDate="2018-06-20T21:20:30.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After about a week of scouring the web I found a forum that mentions using an HP Photosmart Pro B9180. This is a semi-pro printer. It has an option for a straight paper path and can print on items up to 1.5mm thick which is enough for my 42pt paperboard media stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is no longer made so you have to go to the used market. Refurbished units seem to be about $400. Not cheap but certainly better than the $1000-20,000 pro versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Con: this printer is not for amateurs and guzzles expensive ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastEditorUserId="1390" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T20:54:25.373" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T20:54:25.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4229" CreationDate="2018-06-22T15:16:45.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are familiar with Armour Etch, I would start there.  Apply a drop of Armour Etch to a scrap of your acrylic sheet and see if it reacts.  If it does, you have your answer; just mask off the acrylic, cut out your lettering and apply as you would on glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't work, and you really need it to be etched, you could try other chemicals which act as acrylic solvents.  Some modelling glues work on a &quot;plastic welding&quot; technique where the glue dissolves the acrylic plastic so that two previously separate pieces become one.  I would also think that pvc plumbing glue which works on the same principle would work (though you might not like it's purple color).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want the etched look then your safest bet would be frost spray paint.  It has the advantage that if it doesn't turn out like you want, you can probably wipe it off while it is still wet and try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T15:16:45.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4237" CreationDate="2018-06-23T11:54:33.677" Score="6" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does somebody know what's the name of this fabric pattern? In Spanish is &lt;em&gt;Estampado Búlgaro&lt;/em&gt; but when I search &lt;em&gt;Bulgarian Pattern&lt;/em&gt; on Google Images nothing even similar appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GY9a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GY9a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2020-10-07T16:31:34.980" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T03:08:09.397" Title="What's the name of this type of fabric pattern?" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4236" CreationDate="2018-06-23T12:37:10.687" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paisley_(design)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;paisley&lt;/a&gt;&quot; in English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Paisley or paisley pattern is an ornamental design using the buta (Persian: بته‎) or boteh, a teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper end. Of Persian origin,&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paisley_(design)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; paisley designs became very popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, following imports of post-Mughal Empire versions of the design from India, especially in the form of Kashmir shawls, and were then imitated locally. Although the fig- or almond-like form is of Persian origin, its English name derives from the town of Paisley, in West Scotland, a centre for textiles where paisley designs were produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T12:37:10.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-06-24T01:50:29.083" Score="0" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a homework regarding color schemes and I chose Spongebob as my subject. At first I was thinking that it uses a triadic scheme since it uses blue, red, and yellow, and brown is just a combination of the three. However, I'm not sure if that is how the color scheme works, as brown is not a part of a the basic color wheel. I'm really confused. I even thought brown is just a darker shade of orange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4781" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2018-06-26T12:55:21.837" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T12:55:21.837" Title="What color scheme does the Spongebob character use?" Tags="|color-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4238" CreationDate="2018-06-24T08:07:47.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a Photoshop trick to find an average color scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting with an image, I chose one with the main BobSponge's characters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6LDU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6LDU.png&quot; alt=&quot;bobsponge&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From Photoshop apply a Pixelate filter, or choose an &lt;strong&gt;Online Pixelate Filter Maker&lt;/strong&gt; like &lt;a href=&quot;http://pinetools.com/pixelate-effect-image&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pinetools.com/pixelate-effect-image&lt;/a&gt;. With this you get a small color map from which to extract the most important or essential colors of an image.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oA2f7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oA2f7.png&quot; alt=&quot;color map&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2018-06-24T08:41:55.320" LastActivityDate="2018-06-24T08:41:55.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2715" CreationDate="2018-06-24T12:36:20.203" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lapidary materials that can be cut without using specialized saws.  Small raw gemstones are not good candidates, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to modern lapidary equipment, cutting small gemstones relied on understanding, and taking advantage of, a stones natural &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gemselect.com/other-info/about-cleavage.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cleavage&lt;/a&gt;.  This method gives very little flexibility as to how and where you cut, and will result in a lot of lost material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tile saws, dremels, and end-cut bolt cutters can be used to cut gemstone material without the cost of specialized equipment, but all suffer from limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End-cut bolt cutters: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jFH4T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jFH4T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;an example bolt cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; ...can, in a pinch (no pun intended!), cut slabs (sections of gemstone material pre-cut into relatively even thickness slices) to preform for cabochons, but they are most likely to just shatter anything that isn't a flat slab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dremels can be fitted with diamond blades to cut gemstone materials with finer precision, but they still have some serious downsides.  The biggest concern is health: cutting stone materials generates dust, which if inhaled, can lead to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lung.org/lung-health-and-diseases/lung-disease-lookup/silicosis/silicosis-symptoms-causes-risk.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silicosis&lt;/a&gt;, a dangerous and debilitating lung disease. Gem cutters typically mitigate this risk by &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; keeping material wet while cutting and polishing it.  This keeps the dust within the water, and out of the air.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dremels may also have difficulty cutting tougher materials, as unless you obtain a variable-speed tool (which tend to be more expensive), it will likely be too fast.  Lapidary saws are designed to cut at a slower speed, to gradually wear away the material without cracking or shattering it, and to keep the blade from binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tile saws also spin too fast for harder lapidary materials.  They also tend to have a much larger kerf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kerf is the width of the actual cut, where the blade removed materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wV8ZU.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wV8ZU.gif&quot; alt=&quot;illustration of kerf in cutting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger the kerf, the more material is destroyed by the cutting process.  When dealing with larger, inexpensive material, this may not be a big problem, but for small gemstones, this is likely to be a significant concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, your best bet is to use specialized saws.  Beginner hobby saws can be relatively affordable, especially if you can obtain one used.  If there is a gem and mineral club nearby that you can join, some of them will have club machines available for members to use.  Even if the club doesn't own machines, members might be willing to help you out.  Just remember that the blades for the machines are expensive, and wear out relatively quickly.  Offering some money to cover wear-and-tear would probably be appropriate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="86" LastEditDate="2018-06-25T11:59:34.493" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T11:59:34.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3223" CreationDate="2018-06-25T01:34:49.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please do not soak the pickguard in peroxide! That's highly likely to remove or damage the permanent marker signatures since &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peroxide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;peroxide is a bleaching agent&lt;/a&gt;. You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to carefully clean around the signatures using a mostly dry small tool with peroxide or other cleaning solution on it, but even then you would run the risk of some of it bleeding over onto the permanent marker and doing harm. I wouldn't recommend even trying it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, since you're planning on framing it anyway, consider adding another layer of glass between the pickguard and the glass in the frame. Then stain that additional glass layer strategically with a thin wash of paint or ink or dye to visually even out the pickguard that will be beneath it. Colors can be powerful. Try washes in various colors and shades of the same color to see how the pickguard looks through the stained glass. The eye can be fooled nicely with the proper colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage to that approach is that you can experiment without any risk to the pickguard, and you can clean off what you did if you don't like it and try something else (glass is very friendly that way). You should be able to achieve the desired result without changing the pickguard in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T01:34:49.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4149" CreationDate="2018-06-25T02:06:18.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steve (The Mind of Watercolor) on YouTube uploaded the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEC0-PRmw10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SHOWDOWN! Cheap vs Good Quality Watercolor Paper&lt;/a&gt;&quot; video last March in which he compared several watercolor papers against the brand he prefers to see how the paint behaves on each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of his comparison, he briefly explained that buckling is caused by lighter weight paper, so you'll want heavier paper to prevent the buckling, regardless of brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also demonstrated the difference in how the types of paper absorb and disperse the water. You might want cotton paper since it disperses the water quickly and evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing he discussed was how the smoothness of the paper affects the behavior of some paint, so since you you mentioned not liking the roughness of the your paper, you might want to give that part a look as well to see whether smoother paper would work well with the types of paint you use and/or the effects you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T02:06:18.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4107" CreationDate="2018-06-25T02:38:02.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylic_fiber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Acrylic fiber&lt;/a&gt;&quot; page on Wikipedia: 'For a fiber to be called &quot;acrylic&quot; in the US, the polymer must contain at least 85% acrylonitrile monomer.' That leaves a free-for-all on the other up to 15% of fiber that goes into making up a yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there are accepted standards for putting the weight and recommended hook and needle sizes on yarn, there isn't a standard for softness. Some companies do describe some of their yarns as being ultra soft or something similar, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to figure out how soft a yarn might be by reading what it's made of (if they were nice enough to list the fiber types in detail). The care instructions could also possibly tip you off. Another idea would be to visit chat rooms or crafting websites or reviews on shopping sites to get details about the yarn beyond what's on the label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage to relying on yarn companies or other people's opinions to tell you how soft a yarn is, though, is that softness is subjective. I may tell you that yarn X is incredibly soft, but you might not think so when you get your hands on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably your best bet would be to keep the name and other details of yarn(s) that you like the softness of and ask for comparisons between that and the yarn(s) you're thinking of getting. That way, if a person says it feels and/or behaves very much the same as your yarn, then you can be pretty sure you're getting something you'll like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T02:38:02.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2141" CreationDate="2018-06-25T05:42:56.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flax oil is often boiled before it's used as a finishing product. I guess sunflower oil can be boiled too to get the very same result. My guess is that the curing time will be longer. I have just check it out and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.schmincke.de/en/products/mediums/binders/sunflower-oil.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.schmincke.de/en/products/mediums/binders/sunflower-oil.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2018-06-25T05:42:56.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2018-06-26T19:15:03.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I may have stumbled onto a lead while doing some unrelated folding. This method isn't impossible to unfold without tearing, but it requires a fair bit of force (or an understanding of how it was folded) to do. Also, as far as I've been able to test, it's not possible to fold the letter back up in the same way once it's been unfolded, so if you've agreed on this method ahead of time with the recipient it serves a similar anti-tamper purpose as a wax seal, perhaps somewhat less secure but requiring no wax. Finally, it's very fast and simple to do. Here's the method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with your letter&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQoiB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kQoiB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shhh! &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fold it into roughly 3rds. It's not important that it be exactly 3rds but it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; important that it's square, i.e. that the two folds are parallel with each other and perpendicular to the base, or as close as possible&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7MMn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7MMn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Folded into 3rds&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pinch one end of the paper to open up a &quot;tunnel&quot; at that end&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbsPB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbsPB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paper &amp;quot;tunnel&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the other end of the paper into the tunnel. &lt;em&gt;Don't&lt;/em&gt; crease any of the folds yet!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nqE8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nqE8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Into the paper tunnel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is the tricky part: push the free end of the paper as far into the tunnel as possible. This gets increasingly difficult the further you go due to the friction. I've found the it works best with more sturdy papers (printer paper does a fair job), and sturdier paper is harder to unlock. With the flimsy notebook page I used for this demonstration, I got the paper less than a 3rd of the way in&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LgAou.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LgAou.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shove it in there&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now find the place where the paper ends inside the tunnel. Move up a little bit so you have a centimeter or so on both sides of where you're about to cease, and crease &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;. This is the locking fold. Essentially you're forming this shape, but with the free end tucked inside the letter:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGHwe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGHwe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Essential locking fold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crease the other side so your paper lays flat and you're done!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, this isn't perfect. You can definitely unfold the letter without tearing it, but I think this general idea (hidden folds inside the paper structure that are creased &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; tucking) has promise. I'll be playing around with this idea some more, and I'll update you all if I find a more secure method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4763" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T19:15:03.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4248" CreationDate="2018-06-29T01:33:53.467" Score="4" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a giant electrical machine just for buffing metal isn't convenient for me. If I could, I would prefer to just sand away. Is it possible to obtain as good of a finish as you would see with a buffer by using continuously less course sand-paper layer by layer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4805" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T14:49:23.777" Title="Do you need a buffer to get a shiny finish on jewelery?" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4247" CreationDate="2018-06-29T07:33:15.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No, you definitely don't need a buffer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g76k1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g76k1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sutton Hoo belt buckle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sutton_Hoo_(3).JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image from Wikimedia Commons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gold belt buckle dates from the 6th century - long before buffing machines were invented. Finishing jewellery by hand is the traditional way to do it, and as you can see the results can be excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;However, you can't get this kind of finish just with sandpaper&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going up through the grades of sandpaper is a good way to start, but to achieve a truly smooth finish you need something finer. There are a few different things that are available now for final polishing, but the traditional one is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron(III)_oxide#Polishing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ferric oxide&lt;/a&gt;, also known as &lt;em&gt;jeweller's rouge&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use this by applying a little to a polishing cloth, and polishing the piece until it's done (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quicktest.co.uk/polishing.htm#rougeforgold&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you'll need to wipe the rouge off afterwards&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T07:33:15.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4247" CreationDate="2018-06-29T16:36:53.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could repurpose a carpentry drill, Dremel rotary tool, or even a makeup nail buffer to serve as a small buffer.  Specialty bits are available for carpentry drills and Dremel which have the buffing cloth already attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T14:49:23.777" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T14:49:23.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4255" CreationDate="2018-06-30T12:02:24.440" Score="9" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;During my search for a way to mount a metal spearhead (iron) to a wooden shaft (ash) with acceptable historical correctness, I stumbled upon a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.klebstoffe.com/die-welt-des-klebens/informationen/geschichte-des-klebens.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;short note (german only, sorry)&lt;/a&gt; speaking of a glue made from beeswax and stone meal, that was (allegedly) designed for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have little means to judge the correctness of this assertion and to conjecture about the exact mixture (which stone type, which volume ratio, etc.), but the source appears to be credible enough to be worth asking for more details, which I couldn't find anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any historically motivated craftsmen around here which could provide a bit more info, or an educated guess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side node: It seems that glues from animal extracts were far more common and hence, would most likely be historically &quot;more&quot; accurate, but I fear the smell. Of course I could also use birch or pine tar, but I'm curious now about this beeswax-stonemeal-thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4482" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T17:20:35.687" Title="Historical glue from beeswax and stone meal?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4266" CreationDate="2018-06-30T18:39:05.173" Score="3" ViewCount="2792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=140vNQ3pDVw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; where you can customize tshirts with bleach. As a necessary part of it is freezer paper where you transfer stencil design on it. But in Greece is hard to come by, therefore I want to ask would an oven paper (locally known as &lt;code&gt;ladokola&lt;/code&gt;) would be a good substitute, as the image shows bellow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kF9is.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kF9is.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ladokola image found in duckduckgo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I want to know if the &lt;code&gt;freezer paper&lt;/code&gt; is the same as the &lt;code&gt;ladokola&lt;/code&gt; (oven paper) as well. Also I want to know what alternatives I can use (eg. Bucher paper)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2018-07-03T10:43:22.523" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:29:11.707" Title="What alternatives exist instead of freezer paper when it comes on shirt bleaching?" Tags="|paper|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2018-06-30T19:47:51.647" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freezer paper is a product that has a waxed coating on only one side. It's sort of like a hybrid of oven paper (also called parchment paper, baking paper, or ladokola) and wax paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither wax paper nor oven paper can substitute for freezer paper in this particular application, because the wax on one side is being used as a temporary adhesive. After heat is applied, the paper stencil stays in place firmly enough while the bleach solution is applied, but lightly enough that it can be peeled away when you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So some possible alternatives -- which I admit I haven't tried, so they are all hypothetical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oven paper (or butcher paper) will work to keep the bleach solution, but will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have the same adhesive property and the stencil might move out of position while you work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use contact paper -- the video you link to doesn't recommend it because it will stick right away, not allowing for repositioning, but it &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; stay in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a spray adhesive to stick your oven paper down. (Make sure you look for one that's relatively weak, you don't want the paper on the shirt forever.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a substitute for freezer paper &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wn0jg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;per this online tutorial&lt;/a&gt;: a plastic bag ironed onto regular paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wouldn't use wax paper with an iron because the wax would get on your iron, but maybe you could use a layer of wax paper under a layer of oven paper, protecting the iron but still letting the stencil stick!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T19:47:51.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-01T02:35:53.407" Score="3" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something I can put behind ink-jet printed pictures to keep them from bending, but I don't want to increase the thickness of the final product any more than necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinnest balsa wood works but is expensive in 8&quot; wide sheets.  Manila folder material sort of works but I would prefer that it was more rigid than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;80lb. card stock adds too much thickness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not adverse to reusing salvaged materials for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T12:47:46.757" Title="Thin, Flat, Rigid Sheets? (cheap)" Tags="|material-selection|cardboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4253" CreationDate="2018-07-01T10:49:31.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about a very thin acrylic sheet/plexiglass. It may not be as rigid as you need (being too thin), you have to check that for yourself. Also, plexiglass is not a very cheap material, generally speaking, but the price depends on the size and the thickness of the sheet, so what you are looking for may not end up being expensive. If that doesn't work for you, I'd suggest you go and look around a place where they sell construction materials and you will likely come up with a good solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4810" LastActivityDate="2018-07-01T10:49:31.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4250" CreationDate="2018-07-02T09:39:29.337" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skimming the German article you link to, there's another key word -- &lt;em&gt;Ägypter&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Egyptians&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that context a search for &quot;egyptian beeswax stone glue&quot; is instructive.  &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0150436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lap Shear and Impact Testing of Ochre and Beeswax in Experimental Middle Stone Age Compound Adhesives&lt;/a&gt;,  P. R. B. Kozowyk et al., PLOS one, Mar 2016&lt;/em&gt; tests some pine rosin + beeswax + ochre glues.  It's open access so free to read. The references may also be of interest.  While they test a number of formulations, all used rosin (pitch) as a base ingredient.  This is very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutler%27s_resin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cutler's resin&lt;/a&gt; which is still used, and in which &lt;a href=&quot;http://wildernessarena.com/skills/general-repair/how-to-make-pine-pitch-glue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beeswax is used to make it more flexible&lt;/a&gt; (this link says that ancient Egyptians used pine pitch glue in trapping birds, implying that they knew about pitch).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reuters.com/article/us-science-bees-idUSKCN0T026S20151111?feedType=RSS&amp;amp;feedName=scienceNews&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reuters article&lt;/a&gt; also mentions in passing the use of beeswax to soften pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The German word &lt;em&gt;Pech&lt;/em&gt; -- &lt;em&gt;pitch&lt;/em&gt; -- appears in your original article (in the compounds &lt;em&gt;Erdpech&lt;/em&gt; -- &lt;em&gt;asphalt&lt;/em&gt; -- and &lt;em&gt;Birkenpech&lt;/em&gt; -- &lt;em&gt;birch pitch&lt;/em&gt; or more common &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birch_tar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;birch tar&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) but in a European rather than Egyptian context.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T17:20:35.687" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T17:20:35.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4253" CreationDate="2018-07-02T12:47:46.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you’re not willing to spend tons of money and pour two component epoxy onto a Fiberglas mat to create a backing plate (the thinnest most sturdy construction approach I can think of) then the second best thing to do would probably be to use spray adhesive on 1/16” galvanized sheet metal. Cutting them to the right size is really hard without the right tools, but again, the hardware store is your friend and you might be able to get the sizes you need cut there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T12:47:46.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-02T12:48:50.500" Score="0" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using nylon to make a garden flag and read that there should be a liner between the 2 layers so the design does not show through to the other side.  Any suggestions for the fabric to use for this liner?  It should dry quickly when it rains but block the sunlight from showing the design to the opposite side of the flag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how hot an iron can be used to apply a heat bond applique product to the nylon for drawing the designs then cutting them out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4812" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-01-21T05:03:58.173" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T05:03:58.173" Title="Sewing a double-sided nylon garden flag" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-01-21T05:04:16.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4250" CreationDate="2018-07-02T14:21:00.270" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess it really depends a lot on your spearhead and which epoch you want to recreate, but to be historically accurate with an e.g. 10th century European spear, the metal smith would prepare the spearhead with a socket and attach it to the handle (perfectly carved to sit perfectly in the socket) with one or more metal pins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue (as in with the Egyptian razor mentioned in the article you linked to) works in that case because a razor is used gently - never with violence or jammed into something that doesn’t like getting stabbed - many glues before the 20th century were very brittle and would crack on impact. Prehistoric spears might use a bitumen / pitch glue and sinew, but then they wouldn’t be using iron, but that is implied in the article you linked to. (100,000 years ago people just weren’t smelting ore - their hunting tools were stone...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ötzi’s copper axe (from about 5000 years ago) used glue and leather strapping: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tkW7b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tkW7b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;otzis ace&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-07-04T09:34:19.503" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T09:34:19.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4149" CreationDate="2018-07-02T21:12:03.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the paper weight, content, and texture (as discussed in Little Girl's answer, each of these factors definitely plays a huge role in how the paint responds to the paper, and how the paper responds to the paint), you can also physically fasten down the paper or stretch it to keep it flat. You could physically tape the paper down to a flat surface prior to painting using water color paper tape, or blue painter's tape, and then remove the tape after the painting has dried. Some water color paper blocks have each page glued down along the edges to each other, which produces the same effect. This blog (&lt;a href=&quot;http://somecallmebeth.com/keep-watercolor-paper-warping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://somecallmebeth.com/keep-watercolor-paper-warping&lt;/a&gt;) offers some useful tips and videos on different methods of stretching/taping paper to keep it from warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a finished, dried painting that is buckled that you'd like to flatten out, this blog provides some useful information: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strathmoreartist.com/blog-reader/how-to-flatten-a-buckled-painting.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.strathmoreartist.com/blog-reader/how-to-flatten-a-buckled-painting.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T21:12:03.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2018-07-02T21:28:01.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to take ballet lessons, and the methods I've used for preventing frayed ribbon ends were to apply clear nail polish on the cut ends, or to quickly melt the cut end using a candle flame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the melting method, as Stephie mentioned, the cut ends are usually tucked out of sight anyway, so even if the end isn't perfectly melted, it won't be visible. However, some problems I've had with this method are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on the lighter or candle that you use, the flame may not stay constant (ie they flicker or sway with any disturbance in the air). This can make melting the ribbon and creating a smooth, even edge challenging sometimes. Uneven melting can also result in a slightly warped ribbon, which may be more difficult to tuck in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've also accidentally singed my ribbon a few times. You'll definitely need some patience, practice, and a quiet place to avoid making mistakes like this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It may also not be a kid-friendly way to go about sealing the end of the ribbon. (I was probably 12 when I tried doing this for the first time, and I was so entranced at watching how the ribbon melted that I melted too much of it.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nail polish avoids all of these problems, but there are still some precautions you should consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nail polish produces irritating fumes, so unlike the open flame method, you'll need a space with good ventilation and air flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It also takes longer to dry, whereas the melting method takes mere seconds, maybe up to a minute or two.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, nail polish is also an excellent tool for stopping runs in tights, so it's a good thing for ballerinas to keep on hand, anyway :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T21:28:01.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3569" CreationDate="2018-07-03T19:27:22.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;PVC and vinyl are both abreviations for PolyVinylChloride. Inflatable float toys and furniture were normally made of plasticised PVC film. In the past the plasticiser tended to leach out giving an intense odour when the item was new and resulting in toys losing their &quot;bounce&quot; after 1 season of use. Modern toys seem to be made of better quality materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVC can be joined using heat but it is difficult and most commercial production is done using HF (radio frequency electric) welding. For hobby purposes solvent welding (glue) may be considered. It is slow though and requires constant pressure while it sets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that other polymers may replace PVC, there has been a push to reduce chlorine use in plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The large inflatables like &quot;bouncy castles&quot; are almost certainly made from polyurethane reinforced with a cloth typically nylon. Since these are usually supplied with air constantly they need not be airtight, and may be joined by stitching. Polyurethane can also be joined by HF welding where airtight joins are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastEditorUserId="4815" LastEditDate="2018-07-03T19:37:46.953" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T19:37:46.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-04T12:22:58.423" Score="6" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of wood and its' thickness would be get the best results for making &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.realtor.com/news/trends/what-is-a-yule-log/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Christmas colored flame yule logs&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to try and make colored flamed yule logs this year. What type of wood would get the maximum amount of absorption of the mixture of colored solution into the wood? What would be the thickest circumference that would enable the colored flames last the longest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most internet sources suggest newspaper, wood chips or pine cones. I would like to do the same using wood in the form of small logs, in order to make it resemble a real Christmas yule log for a fireplace. They may take up to a month to dry, prior to using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JhWuK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JhWuK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How to Make Colored Fire&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Helpful Sources:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2007-11/how-make-colored-fire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Make Colored Fire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whychristmas.com/customs/yulelog.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The History of the Yule Log&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/add-color-to-fireplace-flames-zmaz77ndzgoe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Add Color to Fireplace Flames for Christmas&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yule_log&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yule log (Wikipedia)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T12:50:09.410" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T20:00:32.717" Title="Wood used for Christmas Colored Flame Yule Logs?" Tags="|material-selection|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2018-07-04T16:13:49.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take two ordinary modules and join them together with one of their tabs in one of the other's pockets, forming the analogue of a triangular pyramid but with two sides only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You obtain a subassembly that looks and works like a single Sonobe module, with the same tabs and pockets in the same position (the unused half of each module) and an additional triangular fin (formed by the joined halves of the modules) protruding from the outer side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a plain old pyramidated octahedron with these assemblies replacing the regular modules and you'll get the 8 pyramids and 12 fins in the photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4818" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T16:13:49.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-05T01:46:36.813" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought tandy lace maker tool for making leather laces. I use good right amount of thickness of leather to make the lace and still the backside of the lace gets fuzzy with grains coming out. This makes the final lacing that i do on leather not professional. How do companies make that even glossy looking leather lace both on the front and back? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4820" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T18:02:56.927" Title="Leather lacing at home" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4107" CreationDate="2018-07-05T06:59:17.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It largely depends on what else the yarn in question is made out of. Unless you buy yarn that is 100% of one fiber or another, they're usually a blend of different things, the composition of which can change the texture and feel of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4822" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T06:59:17.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2018-07-05T17:11:27.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done bleach  t-shirt designs using simple card stock paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After sketching a drawing on the card stock, I would cut out the design to form a stencil, and then I pinned the design in place to the shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you also put something inside the shirt so the bleach doesn't go through to the other side (I've used cardboard for this since it gets ruined after the fact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen other people use some kind of tape -- is painter's tape easily accessible in Greece? You could also use the sticky pages of lint rollers since those are made to be able to stick  to but not damage clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T13:29:11.707" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T13:29:11.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4264" CreationDate="2018-07-07T17:04:23.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question indictes that you want to make laces that will be viewed from both sides and so need them to both be smooth. The normal &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.spinneybeck.com/index.php?/about-how-leather-is-made&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;leather making process&lt;/a&gt; produces &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leather-dictionary.com/index.php/Split_leather&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two types of leather&lt;/a&gt; both of which can be further processed to be smooth on both sides .. you choose based on your need for quality .. I would recommend you go for Grain leather than has been ironed to smooth the inside surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:04:23.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3176" CreationDate="2018-07-07T17:16:14.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason shortening the belt on the other end is not possible, right?  so .. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;just dab a spot of super glue into the holes the sitching makes in the leather for a centimeter or so back from where you are going to cut through the sitching. On both sides of the belt. Make the cut. The thread will be held in place by the glue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The “you must be crazy” version of the answer is .. start unsitching the thread at the buckle end until you are 2 centimetres (1 inch) back from the cut line, tie a new, colour matched thread to the old thread, on the inner side of the belt, pulling the knot tight at the hole the thread comes through. Option to apply a dab of superglue to hold the knot. Cut the leather to shorten. Now thread a needle on and resew the decorative border using the existing holes. Finish the stitching normally and voila!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:16:14.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4262" CreationDate="2018-07-07T17:19:52.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want a wood with high porosity to take up as much of the mineral laden water as possible. Perhaps balsa if you can find a block of it, poplar or willow would be good too. Cedar might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardwoods will definitely not work well .. nor will any pine variety as their natural pitch will resist water uptake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:19:52.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4247" CreationDate="2018-07-07T17:27:43.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a Dremel or Rotron tool with a buffing or polishing wheel mounted will radically shorten the time needed to get a high polish on any surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean to limit yourself to non-mechanical methods then jewelers polish, diamond paste, or aluminum oxide pastes are what you need .. applied to a sponge, cloth, or bit of soft leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:27:43.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3199" CreationDate="2018-07-07T17:38:34.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest concealment. Take a strip of very fine leather and sitch it over the line of metal domes. You might be able to find a cloth that would do the same, but the combination of suppleness and toughness needed would be hard to find in a woven product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:38:34.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2651" CreationDate="2018-07-07T17:47:23.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the image of the white lamp shade i think the tabs are not interlocking, but rather interlaced and glued. &#xA;Proper interlocking would not need gluing .. for instance if the tabs where cut as trapezoids and the two edges joined by a series of folding actions to hook the wider ends into narrower inner edges of each tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the other images i suspect they are also interlaced and glued, but that is not clear to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T17:47:23.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5297" CreationDate="2018-07-07T18:01:24.400" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of oil paint tubes that I got as a gift a while back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really want to try them out but I don't want to use any solvents, thinners, nor have any loose materials that need to be disposed/cleaned in some special way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4828" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T11:55:47.943" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T11:55:47.943" Title="Can I use oil paints without also needing special cleaning supplies?" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4273" CreationDate="2018-07-07T22:48:24.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a palette knife (or bend a butter knife’s blade by 45 degrees) to apply the paint to a wooden board. Squeeze out some paint on the surface, mix the colors with the knife and try some impasto painting. Use toilet paper to clean off the palette knife and dispose in the trash. If you get any paint on your skin, wash it off with warm soapy water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But be prepared to wait at least several weeks for the paint to really dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T22:48:24.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2715" CreationDate="2018-07-08T08:41:40.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strongly advise to not just cut any gemstones without expert knowledge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is not just hardness but chipping. Different gemstones react very different to impact or stress and can easily break or chip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One exception is amber for example because it's very soft and can be worked on without much risk of damage. &#xA;Most stones are not that easy though. &#xA;An extreme example for that is opal since they are very unstable and react badly to any kind of temperature changes that can occur while working on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to know exactly how to cut every gem type (sapphires react different from tourmalines, both react different from citrine or amethyst,...) to minimise chipping or breakage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So without knowledge of how the specific stones you want to work on react, keep your hands off them for risk of causing extensive damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2752" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T08:41:40.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4273" CreationDate="2018-07-08T12:16:35.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need thinners to paint with oil. You can use linseed oil to make the paint more loose if you find it to be too thick. (This will slow down the drying a bit, but not that much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cleaning your materials (brushes, pallete, etc.) you can use cooking oil to loose the paint, wipe as much of the oil off as you can with tissue paper, and then wash the materials with hot water and soap. Keep in mind that this doesn't work once you've let the paint dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A piece of glass (with white paper underneath) works great as a pallete and is very easy to clean (the way mentioned above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not making a mess is a completely separate matter, though. It depends how you personally go about using the paint (some people are just very messy, others are not). If you are worried about the paint going everywhere, just tape some newspaper around the place where you'd be working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4836" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T12:16:35.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-08T19:37:34.273" Score="1" ViewCount="925" Body="&lt;p&gt;What techniques (if any) others have used to join smaller squares of paper together to create, as seamlessly as possible, a larger one to work with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4455" LastEditorUserId="4455" LastEditDate="2018-07-13T23:31:06.583" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T23:31:06.583" Title="What techniques exist to create larger sheets of origami paper from smaller ones?" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4291" CreationDate="2018-07-09T12:15:22.807" Score="10" ViewCount="3254" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of articles and how-to guides on the web showing how to replicate a plastic, wood, or metal object by making a silicone mold and using a hard acrylic or epoxy resin to create the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the opposite problem.  I want to replicate an object that itself is made of silicone.  My current plan is to try to create an acrylic mold of the original silicone piece, and then to use the acrylic mold to cast silicone.  Is there any other way to go about this that would make sense to someone with more knowledge than I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4824" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2022-03-08T09:43:35.720" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T09:43:35.720" Title="Replicating a silicone object" Tags="|mold-making|casting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-09T14:36:45.213" Score="2" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mosaic made of keyboard keys that I made by gluing the keys to a piece of cardboard. After some time, the cardboard has begun to warp under the weight of the affixed keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have a similarly shaped piece of plywood that I plan on affixing the keys to so it won't buckle under the weight and will stay flat when I mount it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question: &lt;em&gt;What type of glue/adhesive should I use to affix the keys to the plywood?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally used tacky glue to affix them to the cardboard and that seemed to work pretty well. Would tacky glue also work in this case? Or should I use something like wood glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T16:04:22.673" Title="Adhesive for applying keyboard keys to wood" Tags="|adhesives|wood|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4280" CreationDate="2018-07-09T16:04:22.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always recommend two-component epoxy for this kind of bond (PE plastic with laminated wood), however if you have a lot  of keys it can get pretty expensive (and messy). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap approach would be to use plumbing silicon (the kind in the tubes). Put a drop in the back of the key and press it firmly onto the board. It should hold for a long time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T16:04:22.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2205" CreationDate="2018-07-09T23:11:34.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend getting a treadle online because its big and you'll pay high shipping costs. In addition, you cannot test an online machine out and have to just rely on the sellers word. I would say its a better idea to pick up a machine at an estate sale or tag sale in your local area. Its much safer than Craigslist and you'll get a much better price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go, make sure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your sewing machine doesn't have any rust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hand wheel at least turns a little bit. (if it doesn't turn at all your taking a risk)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all parts and accessories are included or easily replaceable online&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4844" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T00:11:23.810" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T00:11:23.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2462" CreationDate="2018-07-09T23:50:24.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to find any definitive answer as to why the company stopped making slant shank machines. However, I was able to come up with a logical answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer: I can only assume its due to production costs. Many sewing machines today come out of the same manufacturing plants. It just makes it easier for all the domestic machines to be on the same low shank, Snap-On presser foot system.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After World War II, the US started accepting mass imports of cheap sewing machines from Japan. This created stiff competition between Japanese producers and American ones like Singer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Singers' response was to differentiate their expensive sewing machines from the cheaper Japanese imports with the slant shank system, which was patented in 1951. They also made their product unique by using aluminum to lighten the weight of their machines (this also made production costs cheaper). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, it was a downward spiral because Singer just could not compete with the cheaper prices of Japanese imports. They too started using Japanese manufacturers and this was the beginning of the end for slant shank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4844" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T00:08:39.747" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T00:08:39.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-10T20:16:29.380" Score="2" ViewCount="641" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title says it all really - are there any good alternatives to Linoleum and Wood for relief printing? Note that I'm already aware of specially made lino alternatives such as softcut etc; I'm more interested in materials not made/developed for the purpose that can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4842" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T18:16:27.877" Title="Are there any good alternatives to Linoleum and Wood for relief printing?" Tags="|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2018-07-11T11:51:44.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything you can cut into can be used to make a matrix for a relief print. Different materials have their peculiarities in terms of work process and result (compare linocutting to woodcutting), so it depends on what you are trying to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some materials I've tried in the order I'd recommend them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PLYWOOD&#xA;Pretty much like solid wood, comes in large sizes, cheaper than solid wood.&#xA;Note: There are different types of plywood, and they behave differently when cut. Choosing some soft wood to begin with may be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;HARDBOARD&#xA;Advantages: easy to cut, cheap, comes in large sizes&#xA;Disadvantages: produces a dusty mess, needs sealing, it is somewhat difficult to get fine detail&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;MDF&#xA;Same as hardboard, but a bit heavier&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OSB&#xA;Advantages: cheap, comes in large sizes&#xA;Disadvantages: difficult to cut, easy to slip blade and cut yourself, dulls blades, does not work well with fine detail or on a small scale, heavy, easy to get splinters&#xA;Note: Unless you have nothing else to cut, it is really not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4849" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T11:51:44.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4279" CreationDate="2018-07-12T06:09:05.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a silicone to make a mold in this case too. I've done it in the past. You just have to spray the original silicone piece with the separation spray before you pour the silicone into it like you do the first part of a two part mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4850" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T06:09:05.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-13T15:05:17.543" Score="3" ViewCount="3013" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are already very nice answers about paper on &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/543/how-can-i-artificially-age-paper-without-staining-or-dyeing&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/47859/what-can-i-do-to-paper-to-make-it-look-&quot;&gt;rpg&lt;/a&gt; section, but playing cards are a little bit different and at the same time more specific as they have a special finish and a certain type of paper used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous recommendations about roughing up the surface and then using tea bags (for an aged brown look and to oxidate the ink, this sometimes has the sideffect of a teasmell though which of course should be avoided for realism), scratching up the surface and using oil (simulating the play history, as in handoil and nailscratches) and applying coffee to the edges (as they are more exposed there is more wear on these parts),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but how do you get the best results now if you want to make your playing cards seem as if they have been regularly used for a long long time (but this, in a preferably quite short time)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4855" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T15:22:03.900" Title="How to age playing cards?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-13T18:29:39.677" Score="3" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to make a custom book jacket, but I'm not sure what paper to use. Any help would be great. I live in the UK so if you know what the paper is called over here that would be even more amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd preferable want something with a matt finish that I can print on. I'd also like it to be relatively durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility I'd considered was paper than transfers onto hard cover but I have no idea where to start with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4856" LastEditorUserId="4856" LastEditDate="2018-07-13T20:24:46.273" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T11:39:32.987" Title="Paper for Custom Book Jackets?" Tags="|paper|book-binding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4279" CreationDate="2018-07-13T19:18:17.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with #torjek that a separator (mold-release) spray or liquid would make it possible to caste a silicone object with silicone as the mold making material.  The benefit of getting good at this technique is that you could then caste replacement silicone earplugs using the mold which you just made out of silicone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need more protection for your original, you could probably cover the original with tin foil, using embossing tools to smooth the foil into all the nooks and crannies, and maybe some modelling clay to smooth out the foil seams. Once the original was completely protected within its foil armor, it could be caste as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to search the term &quot;silicone on silicone casting&quot; on youtube. There seem to be a few mold release products which can handle that requirement. Not sure that any of them are safe for your expensive original. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you considered self-hardening clay for the first mold? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T19:18:17.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4278" CreationDate="2018-07-13T19:58:27.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://snkhan.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5287&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread on the Origami Forum&lt;/a&gt;, you probably want to use some form of adhesive, such as tape, glue, spray adhesive, or methyl cellulose to join the sheets.  It will create double-thickness at some points and texture differences (tape, for example, doesn't fold the same way paper does), and of course seams, so you do want to make sure those seams won't show in a prominent area of the finished model, or that you only used the joined paper for practice, and not a display model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T19:58:27.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5294" CreationDate="2018-07-14T12:41:39.760" Score="3" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone think of a way of crafting a simple model (melonbot from supertato) that would dissolve in a paddling pool after being used as a prop? Although it would be a bonus to put little pool toys in the model it's not essential. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ideas I've had so far&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ice (would make the paddling too cold)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;glue and paper (would make the pool too messy)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bath bomb (no idea how to make one that would be large and that would be safe to swim in after)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any ideas or ways round the above problem it would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our plan is to have a supertato themed kids party where we read through the sports day book doing all the activities and finishing with melon bot 'crackling, sparking and exploding' in the paddling pool :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone who wants context :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link to the story: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/QYDLjX6PWA0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Supertato run veggies run - Books Alive!&lt;/a&gt; (YouTube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4860" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2018-07-15T00:23:41.530" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T08:38:42.570" Title="Dissolvable Piñata?" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-14T20:58:39.547" Score="4" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0439895294&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Arrival&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, by Shaun Tan, the protagonist makes origami, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pLVid97WNt4/Wnz5gStiDLI/AAAAAAAAAHs/BOhlBVgWaDEI4ej5Ii2pj-F_kpFwdVcXQCLcBGAs/s1600/20180208_192632.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bird&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6tftm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6tftm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can that figure actually be folded, as drawn? Or did the author just draw something vaguely origami-ish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2803" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-07-15T00:26:16.990" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T21:55:49.337" Title="Can this origami figure actually be made?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4293" CreationDate="2018-07-14T23:47:13.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question brings to mind a concept of water soluble paper. The Google tells me there is such a product, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smartsolve.com/water-soluble-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at least one&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brambleberry.com/water-soluble-paper-p3318.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt;, perhaps more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The web sites indicate that it's often used to make easily transportable soap (for camping) or embedded in clear glycerin soap bars. The second link also notes that the paper is quite thin. The first link provides a video of the user applying liquid soap and lifting the paper from the surface, implying that it is not extremely fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second web site has pricing, US$0.75 per sheet, US$0.42 cents in hundred lots. That seems expensive, but that's just an opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White glue will dissolve in water, especially the glue sticks and this paper dissolves in water. You may be able to construct the model in the manner you desire and allow for a vanishing melonbot in the pool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inflating a balloon to use as the form, leaving the knot outside, allowing the stuff to dry, then popping and removing the balloon should work. In the manner of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Papier-mâché&lt;/a&gt; allows the use of cornstarch or flour, which should not make too much of a mess in the pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T23:47:13.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-15T01:24:46.920" Score="3" ViewCount="3218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a ball joint for a figure and have decided on ball bearings since they're easy to source in the correct size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to attach the ball to a shaft of some sort, like a small steel rod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearing will be small, approximately 1/4 inch in diameter. The shaft will be 1/8 inch or smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ball needs to be completely static and strong enough to support some weight, a pound maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have steel reinforced epoxy putty, but it's hard to work with and I can't imagine in sticking to the smooth surface of the ball. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have tools to drill a hole in the bearing, and have not found pre-drilled balls of the right diameter for purchase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? I'm looking to do this withing welding, soldering, brazing, or anything that requires high heat to accomplish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-07-15T05:48:25.647" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T22:02:20.193" Title="How can I affix a ball bearing to a metal shaft without welding?" Tags="|metal|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2018-07-15T02:11:02.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Silver-brazing is strong and very doable with a propane torch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get best results (easiest brazing and strong joint) with high-silver content brazing wire. If you can grind a small flat on the bearing ball that will make it work much better; getting a concave surface in the end of the rod is much harder, even if you have a lathe available, which I assume you don't. Carefully pressing it against the side of a bench grinding wheel will work fine if your hand is steady; only grinding will work on the hardened steel bearing ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need silver-brazing wire like this, along with the brazing flux and a propane torch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzEAR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzEAR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to buy a new propane torch, I recommend the Bernzomatic TS8000 which is high-heat and rugged: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0019CQL60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS8000-Intensity-Trigger-Start/dp/B0019CQL60/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1531620201&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=bernzomatic+ts8000&amp;amp;dpID=31N7a0ztQML&amp;amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;amp;dpSrc=srch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most of us have one hanging around somewhere and whatever you can lay hands on should get the job done at this scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silver brazing is sometimes known as silver-soldering. Actual silver soldering takes place at a much lower temperature and isn't as strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YouTube has many videos on silver brazing, often associated with jewelry-making. This guy does a nice job of running you through the basics: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_UjkGvht_4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_UjkGvht_4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T02:11:02.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4273" CreationDate="2018-07-15T05:41:45.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not have to make any mess. Just organize everything following few simple rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After you use a certain color, always close the tube. This will make the color inside of your tube clean, it will not start dripping and if something gets in contact with it, it will not get dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place color tubes horizontally, next to each other. That way, they&#xA;will not interact with each other's tube. In a case there is some&#xA;color left on a tube, other tubes won't get dirty. Place them on a&#xA;paper towel which you can easily throw away later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are afraid of getting your clothes messy, use a lab coat - many painters do this. You can also use some clothes you do not plan on wearing. Keep in mind that oil color can be cleaned if it gets on your clothes but it is better to prevent that from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, you can use painting knifes instead of brushes. They are really, really easy to clean. All you have to do is wipe them. Just be careful when you press it with paper (or whatever material you will be cleaning them with) - they can be a little sharp sometimes. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, more color you add, longer it will take to dry. After you are finished with your painting, place it somewhere safe. It will not be dry, so if it falls down, it will get surface dirty and even worse - painting might get dirty. If somebody touches it, they might get dirty or remove some paint which will require you to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am not using any of the above except the first one. If anything gets messy, then those are my hands but I am fine with it. If you are afraid of getting your hands dirty, you can use surgical gloves. I think that is how they are called. They can be bought at any pharmacy. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T05:41:45.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-15T06:50:08.737" Score="4" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if it is possible to cut a clean hole into a standard CPU with a plasma cutter, without damaging the plasma cutter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making CPU keychains but I need to drill a hole through them first. If it is possible, it would make it way more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5860" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T05:01:31.950" Title="Is it possible to drill a CPU cleanly with a plasma cutter?" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2018-07-15T11:11:09.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As much as I like the brazing answer, it's unfortunate that it won't work for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A search using the terms &quot;drilled steel ball&quot; resulted in many returns for of threaded and non-threaded balls of various materials. Most of the returns are for larger than 1/4&quot; as you've requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can adjust your design, there is a source of 8 mm drilled (unthreaded) balls on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/495809165/pack-of-50-x-8mm-steel-stop-motion?ref=pla_similar_listing_top-3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Etsy&lt;/a&gt;. It should be possible to use an epoxy to secure this type of ball to a rod.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2H7iO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2H7iO.png&quot; alt=&quot;drilled ball&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Etsy also has a listing for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/495575459/pack-of-20-8mm-stop-motion-armature&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;drilled threaded version&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQnEI.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQnEI.png&quot; alt=&quot;drilled threaded ball&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T11:11:09.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5293" CreationDate="2018-07-15T19:13:15.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://langorigami.com/artwork/northern-mockingbird-opus-822/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robert J. Lang's Opus 822, Northern Mockingbird&lt;/a&gt;, it's entirely possible to create a base for a bird model that incorporates flaps for head, wings, tail, and legs.  How easy it might be to do without being Lang or knowing a technique to create a base with the appropriate flaps for those features (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.174.820&amp;amp;rep=rep1&amp;amp;type=pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;circle-packing&lt;/a&gt;), I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2021-07-03T21:55:49.337" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T21:55:49.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2018-07-16T08:21:28.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully glued balls to the tips of screws in the past using epoxy.  The first step is the hardest: drill out the tip of the screw to form a cup that will locate the ball  (in all but one case I've been able to get this done on a lathe).  Then make sure everything is completely clean and grease-free, and use a slow-setting epoxy (even better one that requires heat to cure, but that's more for industrial use).  Allow to cure with the ball sitting in the screw undr its own weight.  This works with quite a range of materials; in one case the balls were synthetic ruby and the screws brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've generally done this using balls up to the diameter of the screw, or only a little larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T08:21:28.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4293" CreationDate="2018-07-16T08:38:42.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder about a thin ice shell.  That wouldn't be too cold, and could be coloured with food dye.  You could use an overgrown version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cocktailchemistrylab.com/home/ice-ball-cocktail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cocktail in ice ball&lt;/a&gt; method (though you might have to improvise  your own mould) or something like (I haven't tried this but now want to):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fill a balloon with salt solution (something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Saltwater_freezing_point.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;200g/litre&lt;/a&gt; and freeze.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dip the balloon in cold water, repeatedly, putting it back in the freezer in between if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the tricky bit -- put it in a freezer that's well above the freezing point of the salt water inside but well below 0&amp;deg;C (32&amp;deg;F).  This will melt the inside but not the outside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use (denatured/rubbing) alcohol for the freezing point depression if it's not going to be near food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T08:38:42.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5298" CreationDate="2018-07-18T16:50:48.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are going to be much better off with a water-cutter. Plasma cuts tend to splatter and soften the material around the edges of the cut, flaring them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T16:50:48.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-19T10:16:48.280" Score="5" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard that colored pencils use wax (or clay) as a pigment vehicle, and crayons (wax pastels) use wax as pigment vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found recently that crayons are mind blowingly cheap (96 crayola crayons for $6), whereas colored pencils tend to go for at least $2 for a pack of 24.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am starting to think I should just switch to crayons for when I need to get some color down, especially if I intend to take photographs of them rather than frame them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried searching for what the differences between crayons and colored pencils were, but I couldn't find anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are  there any drawbacks to blending crayons with pencils (such as crayola/prismacolor scholar)? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are  there any drawbacks to using crayons over pencils?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I couldn't find any lightfastness information, and can't think of any reason for them to behave any differently than a typical pencil other than not having wood, and being softer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4828" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T10:12:54.443" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T15:10:30.633" Title="What's the difference between cheap pencils and crayons for coloring?" Tags="|drawing|colored-pencils|wax|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5321" CreationDate="2018-07-19T22:26:19.747" Score="6" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;A year ago I loaned my Brother XL-2600i to my kid's school, and only now have I tried using it again. Yep: they messed it up. The thread tangles up around the bobbin, and it makes grinding noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disassembling it, I found a broken needle inside, under the bobbin case. I removed that, cleaned it all out, and still it isn't functioning smoothly. So, I'm guessing something got bent when the needle whacked into it and broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to figure out what got bent, I disassembled everything, trying to find out what isn't working smoothly. When I removed the bobbin case, I revealed the drum with the hook that holds the bobbin, and turns under it (the black hook is visible on the right under the white plastic piece):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oyzlk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oyzlk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drum and hook under bobbin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the drum spins smoothly, and there's no more grinding noises (not surprising, as there's not a lot there). However, if I replace the bobbin case, when I run the sewing machine the bobbin case rocks back and forth (moving about &amp;frac12; mm each way):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VdQam.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VdQam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bobbin case&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as if when the hook moves under the bobbin case it pushes the case back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the question: is this normal motion of the bobbin case? Or should the bobbin case be truly motionless, and this shows that my problem is with the case and/or the underlying drum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'd also be happy with any other suggestions of what might be going wrong.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'm adding some more information that led to the solution. When malfunctioning, the loops of thread under the cloth being sewn that should have been pulled tight, weren't. Each time I tried sewing I had to pull a wad of these loops out of the mechanism under the sewing platform. Here's a picture of the loops (showing the underside of the cloth):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIF5G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIF5G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Loops in sewing thread&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5872" LastEditorUserId="5872" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T12:43:43.643" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T11:52:32.057" Title="Sewing machine problem: machine won't tighten the loops under the material" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2018-07-19T23:11:01.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem sticking computer paper to cardstock for a project I was making and became very frustrated because I had spent a lot of time coloring and designing it and had to start all over again. Just use double sided tape! It is so easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5873" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T11:56:20.733" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T11:56:20.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5306" CreationDate="2018-07-20T10:36:17.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap or expensive, crayons are softer, pencils are harder. Pencils will scratch off crayons but I see no problem with using crayons over pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, cheap crayons are really not worth it. Cheap colour medium, in general, means more filler and less pigment resulting in dull colours and unsatisfactory reaults. If you can't afford decent quality colouring products, I'd suggest you do the colouring digitaly, instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5879" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T10:36:17.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5307" CreationDate="2018-07-20T11:17:01.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bobbin case rocking back and forth is normal! In order to form a stitch, the top thread has to cross under the bobbin thread and back up. It does that by looping all the way around the bobbin case - you're seeing the wiggle room to allow that, called the escapement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to say what the problem might be from your question, but has the machine been oiled recently? Cleaning, oiling, and new needle cure a lot of machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5880" LastEditorUserId="5872" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T13:20:42.560" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T13:20:42.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2018-07-20T17:35:54.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isopropyl alcohol.  You might have to apply some moistening oil (tung, lemon) after.  I have this problem when I remove labels from cigar boxes.  For some reason rubber cement is the adhesive of choice in tobacco-growing nations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5881" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T17:35:54.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2018-07-20T20:51:42.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rubber cement should just peel off the wood with gentle rubbing, provided it is dry. Using a piece of soft sticky rubber, and there are special rubber erasers specifically for picking up rubber cement, will help. Some shoes have gummy soles that are a similar material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The use of rubbing alcohol may help remove any remaining residue but do not use it until you get most of the solid rubber off first and definitely test it on the finish somewhere not visible first. Starting with a solvent like alcohol without getting rid of the bulk of the rubber glue will leave you with a sticky mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fyi - This is actually a main feature of rubber cement. It is (was in this digital age) used in doing layout and paste up of text sides in photolithography. By only gluing one side, and letting it dry, the piece of paper with the type could be repositioned without problems. To make a more permanent bond, both sides were coated and then attached. The excess glue was then picked up with the above mentioned eraser&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T16:42:12.310" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T16:42:12.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5329" CreationDate="2018-07-21T02:05:43.617" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a board that I stained and poly’d and now am having trouble with the final step. I have script alphabet stencils and can’t seem to find a great way to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have stencil brushes and am using a dabbing technique. I tried taping them down but had really fuzzy edges. So then I tried spray adhesive and that did a pretty good job of solving the fuzziness, but it left a haze on the board where the glue was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What technique should I be employing for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5884" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-07-22T08:33:23.493" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T15:35:46.423" Title="Stencil on wood issue" Tags="|adhesives|painting|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5315" CreationDate="2018-07-21T09:47:27.477" Score="3" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a suit which has a hole in one of it's sleeve. Most of the time, the suit was stored in a dark place, which unluckily was also the reason for the hole. Is it possible to replace a whole sleeve of a suit, or will a new sleeve, due to the natural bleaching by the sunlight on the rest of the suit, stand out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5885" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T08:47:25.370" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T08:47:25.370" Title="Can a damaged sleeve of a suit be replaced?" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5314" CreationDate="2018-07-21T10:54:53.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a good clothing repair shop, they might be able to stop the hole like people used to stop socks and well done it is almost invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A replacing sleeve will almost never work, even when it matches very closely when new, it will likely react different on aging and on creasing and dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good stop is as good as invisible, but it is very hard to do and requires yarn from the same suit which has aged in the same way as the sleeve that needs repairing. To do it you take out some of the yarn around the damage when weaving in the new yarn, weaving in the same pattern as the original weave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past young girls were taught how to do it and there are beautiful sample pieces in museums, to find a trained girl (or woman or man) now will be very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easier repair, will only work if the damage is in an acceptable spot, is to place something over it that is very visible. Like the leather elbow pieces on traditional tweed jackets, or sweet flower embroideries on a female garment. So hide in plain view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T10:54:53.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5298" CreationDate="2018-07-22T04:39:27.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a diamond drill bit. Cheap plated bits are good to learn on, but if you're doing it a lot, invest in sintered. Look at a lapidary or jeweler supply store/site or eBay &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T04:39:27.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5929" CreationDate="2018-07-23T06:33:34.460" Score="10" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently given a couple of fairly large beeswax pillar candles by a friend who got them from his church.  They were going to be thrown away, but he knew that I dabble in candle making so he salvaged them.  They are beeswax, so well worth salvaging, in my humble opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason they were being thrown away is that they were tunneling very badly.  As is well explained on the web, that's usually a result of being underwicked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of votive molds, so I used them to make a few candles from wax taken from the big pillars, and then consulted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theflamingcandle.com/wick-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; to find that something in the range of an HTP 31 through 52 should be about right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I tried an HTP 41, and it also burned extremely underwicked.  Cutting a long story short, I kept increasing the wick size till I got a satisfactory burn, and found that I had to use an HTP 126 to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's simply a huge wick for a standard votive, it's more appropriate for a 3&quot; to 4&quot; container.  Yet it is somewhat consistent, you'd think that a commercial company would know the correct size wick to put in a candle, and yet that burned like it was underwicked, exactly like the HTP 41 I tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, is it possible that the beeswax is somehow altered, or degraded or something that causes it to require a much larger wick to burn correctly?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted earlier, I dabble in candle making, but I'm no expert.  Thus the reason I'm asking.  I usually consult a wick sizing page like the one I linked, and use their advice to find a good starting size.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most of the time, I get a good burn within a size or two of where I start, just not in this particular case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3312" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T10:28:53.517" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T07:56:58.257" Title="Why would a candle require a much larger wick than normal for its size?" Tags="|material-selection|candle-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5319" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-07-23T08:39:25.230" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T08:39:25.230" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T08:39:25.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5320" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-07-23T08:39:25.230" Score="0" Body="For questions about making candles in all their forms." OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T23:00:10.617" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T23:00:10.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5307" CreationDate="2018-07-23T12:42:44.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/users/5880/reve&quot;&gt;Reve&lt;/a&gt; gave me the tip that led to the solution. As part of each stitch, the upper thread has to be pulled around and under the bobbin case; the loop is then pulled tight against the underside of the cloth. But, in the process of chewing on the broken needle, the bottom of the bobbin case was scored and abraded, and the thread wouldn't smoothly slide under it. This left the machine unable to tighten each loop, and all hell broke loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked, and although it wasn't obvious, there were clearly rough spots on the bottom of the bobbin case. I used fine sandpaper (280, 320, and then 600 grit) to clean off every rough spot I could find. I reassembled, and I believe the bobbin case was rocking less than before (although it's tough to tell). But, the most important change: it all works again. Yee haw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5872" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T12:42:44.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5306" CreationDate="2018-07-23T12:56:37.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quality will be much higher with pencils. The softness of crayons dramatically reduces your precision when drawing, and they have a tendency to &quot;skip&quot; - I guess because of the higher amounts of wax involved. This is why crayon drawings rarely have a uniform color field, and don't blend well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will use up your crayons much faster than pencils as well, because the soft wax smears much faster. As you mentioned, the wood of the pencils also lends durability. I've never had much luck mixing the two unless I want to see the different marks - the materials are different enough to stand out next to one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T12:56:37.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5330" CreationDate="2018-07-23T16:51:19.600" Score="4" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being into the decorating of eggs recently, an Orthodox tradition, and I am wondering which paints are most suited towards this type of work. My curiosity extends towards the possibility of using different dyes along with the paints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2531" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-07-23T23:18:39.387" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T16:18:13.617" Title="What paints can be used on eggs?" Tags="|painting|food-safe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2018-07-23T18:16:27.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to recommend a material without knowing what kind of result you want, or why linoleum and wood are not desirable. @user18894 presented some good wood-like materials; I used MDF for years, and was very happy with how well small detail held up, and how easy it was to carve. I never sealed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a comment mentioned, you can use many food items by carving into them and creating a stamp/matrix - potatoes, carrots, cabbages. They each will have a particular texture, and tend to degrade quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use clay, either moist or in the bisque stage. The two states will obviously provide different challenges to printing and durability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plexiglass is an option, but is typically used for intaglio printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also build a matrix out of material. For example, glue/layer things like masking tape, leaves, lace, or paper on top of cardboard and roll ink onto that surface. Depending on your materials, this will also degrade fairly quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1737" LastActivityDate="2018-07-23T18:16:27.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5328" CreationDate="2018-07-24T14:54:07.683" Score="5" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would you draw a heatblur from the engine of an aircraft, I am drawing this:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjdNl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjdNl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how would I draw the blur that trails the aircraft (Heatblur)? Mind, I'm not drawing the background, just the aircraft&#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5893" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T15:24:05.067" Title="How to draw a heat blur from an aircraft engine" Tags="|pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5327" CreationDate="2018-07-24T15:24:05.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heat blur effect is caused by the hot exhaust chaotically refracting the background. That is, the noisy turbulent hot air of the jet blast bends the light coming through it randomly, leading to blurry areas where the trail is. So to convincingly draw the heat blur you would need to have a background to be blurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said you could represent it by drawing the exhaust trail itself and slightly distorting the areas of the jet it overlaps. Since you are showing a heat trail and not a smoke trail you would want to go very light with the drawing in terms of tone and density. Try using fine lines and shapes that capture the jet trail's swirling movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T15:24:05.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5313" CreationDate="2018-07-24T15:35:46.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A combination of getting the right consistency of the paint for the stenciling and technique in the application should stop the fuzziness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would want a fairly &quot;dry&quot; paint thickness so it does not run when applied, more like paste than water. Keep the brush loaded with paint so you do not have to work repeatedly over the same areas but do not overload the brush with excess paint that will gum up and bleed under the stencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use careful light dabbing, possibly holding the stencil close to the surface with your fingers like Willeke said, moving in from edge to center to keep from lifting the stencils as you work. You should not need to glue down the stencils, but maybe use a little masking tape on the outer edges to keep them aligned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T15:35:46.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5325" CreationDate="2018-07-24T21:21:22.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Food coloring would be the easiest, most colorful and most common way of coloring eggs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately and perhaps more traditionally there are a number of natural dyes that come from food stuffs: purple cabbage, red onions, yellow onions, beets, teas. Typically these are chopped and boiled in water with a little clear vinegar in it until the color goes into solution. Then it works like any other coloring... dip, brush, or soak the eggs in it to give them color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T21:21:22.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3614" CreationDate="2018-07-24T21:32:20.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also a full range of acrylic mediums and varnishes that have different levels of gloss. The advantage to these would be compatibility with your paints and convenience in terms of availability and use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A light body gloss medium is fine to use as for glazing over acrylics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T13:18:36.693" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T13:18:36.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2715" CreationDate="2018-07-25T22:51:14.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a hardness chart for gems &amp;amp; stones, this can help you determine what blade to use. Dremel tools are great for cutting gems and stones of all kinds. They have diamond tips and more. They have cutting blades of all kinds. I use mine on gems and stones all the time. Many sites with jewelry stuff have charts on hardness. Google  useing  a Dremel to make jewelry you should find something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5898" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T22:51:14.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-26T11:42:18.730" Score="3" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make a hat that looks roughly like this one but I'm clueless on how to go about with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need it to be from a material that does not keep heat much (compared to, say, felt) and that won't deteriorate if it gets damp (like paper does). I thought I might use rough canvas, but I'm not sure if it will stay in shape if just sewn. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What would be a suitable cloth material to use? Would canvas be alright?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do I make it stay in shape without making it too thick — should I use wire or fishing cord, do I need something to make the cloth stiffer (if so, what would it be), would sewing it properly be enough? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Vp4p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5899" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T23:59:39.707" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T18:14:31.113" Title="How to make a cloth brim hat?" Tags="|sewing|material-selection|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-26T13:21:48.477" Score="5" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am busy sketching the Mona Lisa using pencil and charcoal (unfortunately I cannot add the picture).&#xA;I used pencil to do her face and head in the beginning and then used charcoal to start doing the dress. The problem I ran into was that the dress was way darker than the head because of the use ofcharcoal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I need to make the head darker as well, to match. Is there I way I can do this? Is it even possible? The detail looks just like the original but now the 2 different tones on the artwork make it look pretty crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5900" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T16:56:36.277" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T15:53:40.063" Title="Is it possible to darken a pencil drawing to match the colour of charcoal?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5335" CreationDate="2018-07-26T23:34:24.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that there are a couple of ways of dealing with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rework the head with charcoal, possibly using an eraser and add some pencil marks to the rest so that you have a bit of cohesion everywhere &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave the skin as it is (with pencil) and use charcoal everywhere else&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use fixative (or hairspray) to knock back the darkness of the charcoal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a mist of white spray paint to subdue everything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take it in stride as a learning experience and make another drawing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T23:34:24.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-07-28T17:26:25.523" Score="6" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artograph.com/projectors/tracer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Artograph Tracer&lt;/a&gt;, but the lens has come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips on how to refix the lens in the plastic tube? And which way around it goes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5904" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T01:22:26.350" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T01:22:26.350" Title="Fixing the lens of an Artograph Tracer" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2018-07-29T05:54:12.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other method of heat sealing the ends would be to use a butane torch lighter and an Xacto type of craft knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold the blade over the flame until it gets hot then cut the ribbon. It may take a bit of practice to get the right amount of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at all possible (I don't know much about ballet shoes) lay the ribbon down on a piece of wood before cutting, it's easier and safer than trying to cut it freehand.  That's how I usually cut Paracord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5906" LastActivityDate="2018-07-29T05:54:12.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5338" CreationDate="2018-07-30T10:53:48.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb when repairing any kind of projection system, is that it is imperative that the lens is EXACTLY parallel and centered along the light’s primary path. If you mess it up, you fail and the projection will be fuzzy and/or distorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend the following two step approach. Get some plasteline (non-drying modelling clay). Put the lens in the barrel like you think it should fit. Pay very close attention and center it. Roll out a 12 inch long and 1/4” or 0.8mm diameter cylinder of clay. Press it around the edge of the lens to temporarily fix it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now mount the barrel as usual and try it out. If you got the lens backwards, take it apart and do it again. Make sure you can focus it and everything with the projection is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now remove the lens and the clay. Use cold demineralised water with a drop of dish soap to remove any remnants of the clay from the barrel and the lens. Then polish the lens with a microfiber / or special lens cleaning towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a good moment to use white cotton gloves - just make sure there are no fingerprints on the lens and that there is no dust in the barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once everything is absolutely entirely dry, install the lens as before, and now take some heat-resistant silicone and put a bead of silicon around the edge, as you did the first time with the clay. Go overboard and smear it up the sides of the barrel, but be careful not to get it on the lens. If you do get it on the lens, immediately remove it with the soapy water and microfiber. Be gentle, don’t scratch it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the silicon cure (in accordance with its label) and enjoy your projector!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T18:27:15.253" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T18:27:15.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2018-07-30T21:11:56.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kneaded_eraser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a kneaded eraser&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These types of erasers are really cheap and you can mold them into any shape you like. Besides that, it also does this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It functions by adsorbing and &quot;picking up&quot; graphite and charcoal particles, in addition to carbon and pastel marks. It does not wear away and leave behind eraser residue, thus it lasts much longer than other erasers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Negative side of these erasers is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although kneaded erasers do not wear away like other erasers, they can become saturated and unable to absorb any more graphite or charcoal. In that case a kneaded eraser will actually leave marks on the paper instead of erasing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that is to be expected. It can not last forever. Since they are not expensive, buying another one will not be much of a problem. Where I live they cost around 1 - 1.5 euros each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more about them on the wiki page I shared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T01:20:22.350" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T01:20:22.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4185" CreationDate="2018-07-30T22:09:47.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are different but you can still learn by watching video tutorials of oil painting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am oil painter (who has tried acrylics) I will share my experience and talk about practical part of painting with those. I am sure you know all about science behind it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference is the, so called, &quot;flow&quot; of the paint. It feels different. It absorbs differently on canvas. I would compare it like this:&#xA;Oil colors stay on the canvas, while acrylics get soaked up by it. Which is to be expected, of course. That is the reason some people will prefer one over another. I prefer oils. Now, this, what I just said makes it all different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are about to paint a portrait by using oils, you will have easier time with blending. Oil color dries slower. You can use this to your advantage to postpone blending of certain area for later and work on something else. It gives you more flexibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That flexibility comes into play when you are using, so called, glazing technique. Since it stays on top of your background color, you can manipulate with it, remove it and increase the vibrancy of your painting. Overall, in my opinion, glazing with oils is more effective and easier*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Why easier? Here is my story: You are not really limited by temperature. Once, during the art colony, I was given acrylics to paint with. We were outside in the hottest city in Europe - Mostar. My colors would dry in front of my eyes, so fast, that I could not blend them at all. Since I am using a lot of layering and glazing, this was a total nightmare for me. I pulled something off, but colors where dull and dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With oils, you can always come back, fix something, change shadows, lightning etc. Oil colors will cover it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, lets talk more about acrylics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are interested in portraits, your picture is pretty much set. For instance, if you were to paint something directly from your head, you would have to go back and forth a lot, fix something, change elements, add or remove something etc. So, you will not need your painting to be wet most of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faster drying means that blending must be done faster than with oil colors. So, there is the first difference. If a person is painting with oils, they can put darks first, then talk, then change something, then put undertone, then blend it. Why? Well, it is wet. :D &#xA;They can talk for the next two hours and still come back and it will be wet. Some of them would place the basic color first (color the entire face with yellowish-red), then they would glaze, glaze and glaze to get the effect they want. For me, this just does not work with acrylics. It can be done, but it will not be the same. It is the best to glaze when under-color is semi-dry. Not too dry, not to wet. This is where I would say that you need to react faster than oil painter. But that is not a downside, really. You might actually like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For exact answer, I would have to watch every video and tell you what is easier to do with oils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, no matter what technique you are using, you can watch whatever you want and learn from it. &#xA;You can even watch digital painting tutorials and still learn from it. The biggest difference is the approach and that is something that will come to you over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to sum it up, take into account: &lt;strong&gt;layering, glazing, blending and drying.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: Oil painter can manipulate with paint longer and thus change something that has been already dried on your paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing is keeping your color pallet wet when working with acrylics. Also, you might need more color than the oil painter is using to get the same effect (because of how acrylics dry, get absorbed etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastEditorUserId="460" LastEditDate="2018-07-31T05:04:32.963" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T05:04:32.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5334" CreationDate="2018-07-31T21:01:04.267" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck making hats from rough canvas. Fishing cord works great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5916" LastActivityDate="2018-07-31T21:01:04.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5957" CreationDate="2018-08-01T06:51:04.230" Score="4" ViewCount="742" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive been trying to use embossing powder for lettering, I want to know what paper works best for this and what kind of procedure to follow for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5901" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T12:40:28.540" Title="How does embossing powder work? What paper is most recommended to be used with it?" Tags="|material-selection|calligraphy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5350" CreationDate="2018-08-01T09:37:23.027" Score="4" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a table to distress for which I need chalk paint in bulk. What would be the best and cheapest way of making this at home in large amounts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5901" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-08-02T10:25:32.480" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T10:25:32.480" Title="What is the best mix to make chalk paint at home?" Tags="|paint|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5349" CreationDate="2018-08-01T14:54:37.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need a good binder, and the cheapest waterproof binder that you can make yourself is &lt;strong&gt;casein&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casein is a milk-based product that you can make by warming  whole milk in a saucepan and adding about 5 drops of lemon juice per liter. You don’t have to get it hot, but it mustn’t be cold. You will see clumps forming, and then remove it from the heat. Pour the entirety through a fine-meshed strainer and reserve the watery part (the whey). I like to let the casein dry for about 24hrs. Do not leave it in the sun, and do not accelerate the drying in the oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next phase is to do what the Germans call “sumpfen”, and that means you soak the chalk for 24 hours in a clean bucket with distilled water before you mix it into the casein. While it is soaking, you can stir it several times to make sure that it is mixed thoroughly. It will settle to the bottom of the bucket. Don’t use too much water, because it isn’t necessary. Just use enough to cover the chalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day when it is time to paint and your surface is prepared (i.e. no grease spots, sanded down etc.) take one part casein to one part chalk and knead them together like bread. Once the consistency is uniform, put the casein-chalk in a paint pot and slowly add distilled water (even from the chalk bucket) until you get the consistency you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is really a good idea to try out your technique and the paint on a piece of wood similar to the table. When the paint is dry, you can burnish it with a silk pillow, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have extra casein, wrap it in plastic and keep it in a dark and cool place, like the fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-08-01T16:50:31.203" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T16:50:31.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5334" CreationDate="2018-08-01T18:14:31.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some experience with canvas hats.  I owned a Real Deal (hatmaker from Brazil) for several years. They're made from old canvas tarps, like the ones used to cover truck payloads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canvases has its advantages over felt.  It is slightly more breathable, and wicks moisture away a little bit better.  It's a marginal improvement over felt.  The greatest advantage is in durability.  With reasonable use and care, canvas will last for years.  Mine survived about 4 years of heavy abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For heat control, eyelets will be helpful, especially high up near the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help the top of the hat keep it's shape without making it too thick, there's stuff called boning that is used in fitted dresses and corsets.  Its a thin plastic mesh that adds stiffness without adding significant weight.  Asking around at a fabric store will put you on the right track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the easiest way to help the brim keep its shape is a piece of wire.  You can cut it to fit and then secure it to the edge of the brim with bias tape.  To keep the tips of the wire from poking through the tape, you can tie them together with dental floss,  a heavy dab of epoxy or if you have the ability, welding the tips together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5906" LastActivityDate="2018-08-01T18:14:31.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5679" CreationDate="2018-08-03T09:37:10.303" Score="4" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some brassware with nice engraved designs that I'd like to bring out. If it were silver or gold, I'd use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ganoksin.com/article/niello-metal-mixture/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;niello&lt;/a&gt;, but that apparently doesn't work on brass. I could try and do something to oxidise the whole surface and polish the oxidation off of the high points of the engraving, but ideally I'd like something darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see from pieces like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Apnki.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Apnki.png&quot; alt=&quot;Engraved lamp stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/443176&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Engraved lamp stand from the Met Museum&lt;/a&gt;, public domain&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that such a finish is achievable, but the entry just lists it as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brass; cast, engraved, and inlaid with black compound&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, what is the equivalent to niello which can be used to selectively darken recessed areas of a brass object?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer more traditional methods, as opposed to simply spray painting the whole thing black and rubbing it off the high points, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T23:02:25.713" Title="What is the equivalent to niello for brass?" Tags="|medium-selection|metal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5355" CreationDate="2018-08-03T16:55:03.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing that comes to mind is the application of asphaltum or bitumen of the type used to prepare a hard ground for etching. If you do it quickly and burnish off the raised areas, you should get something like niello...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-08-03T16:55:03.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2018-08-04T09:47:24.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest spray adhesive. It gives an even coat and is not too wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T09:47:24.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4289" CreationDate="2018-08-06T15:22:03.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Work the cards. That would be the only way to make them seem used for a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you would want to do is learn a few ways of shuffling (ie. overhand, riffling and cascading. There are tons of examples on the web.) No need to use any fancy techniques, just basic card handling. Then just constantly work the cards until they are broken in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may take some time (maybe a day or two) but you can shuffle as you do other things. You just need to flex and rub the cards together for a length of time, concentrating the working of the cards over their lifetime into a few hours. That combined with the visual aging methods you describe will give the cards a used look and feel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T15:22:03.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-06T22:38:52.403" Score="3" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm experimenting with  DIY casein-based plastics, using powdered milk. There are lots of references to casein plastic originally being used mostly for buttons &amp;amp; beads, but no actual instructions for how to form beads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is not how to make the stuff, it's how to make more than one bead at a time including holes, as is done with some glass and clay beads.  Casein plastic made with an organic acid does start out the same as paneer - Indian &quot;cottage cheese&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5935" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T13:35:06.600" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T13:35:06.600" Title="How to cast beads using DIY casein plastic?" Tags="|beads|casting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5359" CreationDate="2018-08-07T00:08:18.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a quick stroke of the keyboard, The Great Google returned many results for &quot;casting with casein resin&quot; including a resource that is a favorite of mine, Instructables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Plastic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables page&lt;/a&gt; which describes mixing milk and vinegar in a saucepan, which is heated to form the mess or mass of &quot;plastic&quot; material. Additional hints are provided, including the suggestion to have your mold ready to receive the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comments posted by other Instructables members suggest that the creator has made a version of cottage cheese, while another references the typical (PVA) wood glue. Yet another post offers a slightly different method of processing with the addition of some ordinary bicarbonate of soda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all Instructables, the entry on the above page has been improved by the addition of a photo of a cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wMWz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wMWz.png&quot; alt=&quot;casein goop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is not the cat photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T00:08:18.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5359" CreationDate="2018-08-07T09:38:39.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually did this six months ago, and the shape that I cast is still solid, virtually indestructible and mold-free, so I am speaking from experience here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions I wrote down here for &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/5350/2835&quot;&gt;making milk paint&lt;/a&gt; are very similar, but with a few notable differences. It is very important that you work in a hygienic and sterile environment, which means really taking care not to introduce microorganisms and fungi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Casein is a milk-based product that you can make by warming whole milk&#xA;  in a &lt;strong&gt;copper&lt;/strong&gt; saucepan and adding about 5 drops of lemon juice per liter. &lt;strong&gt;Whisk the milk vigorously, making sure to whisk the copper saucepan&lt;/strong&gt;. You&#xA;  don’t have to get it boiling hot, but it mustn’t be cold. You will see clumps&#xA;  forming, and then remove it from the heat. Pour the entirety through a&#xA;  fine-meshed strainer and reserve the watery part (the whey).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because ultimately we want to remove all of the water, put the clumps in a clean nylon stocking and squeeze out all of the moisture that is left. Then remove the casein and put it on a baking sheet that is lined with waxed paper / baking paper. You will find that the casein is a little crumbly and tends to fall apart, but if you squeeze it between your fingers it will retain its shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you force the casein into a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B074X6YL2Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beadmaking form like this&lt;/a&gt; and bake it at about 150 degrees Celsius for three to four hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2KW5m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2KW5m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;beadmaking mold/form&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTES&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may wonder why the copper saucepan. That is because by whisking the milk in it, you are adding copper ions to the casein, which act as a natural antibacterial and antifungal agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also add other materials like pigment or fillers to the casein - and although I haven’t tried it, I expect that using Marble Dust (available at better art supply stores) would strengthen the final product, as would adding mica flakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T15:54:50.530" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T15:54:50.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4134" CreationDate="2018-08-09T17:00:00.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would a two step process work? Make the first mold off of the fiberglass with latex rubber (or another molding rubber that is not anti-fiberglass) then make a plaster positive from that. So now you have the fiberglass form in plaster, use that for the silicone mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T17:00:00.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2018-08-09T18:27:35.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray adhesive like Super 77 works best for large sheets. (if you need it permanent... otherwise there are repositionable spray adhesives) Don't put down the entire sheet all at once, start with one edge and tack it down evenly using something to smooth it down as you slowly lower the rest of it down onto the surface. Just make sure to smooth it continuously as you go, removing any air bubbles or wrinkles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5943" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T18:27:35.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-10T02:47:06.150" Score="12" ViewCount="2750" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's a good strategy for reusing a sewing pattern without damaging it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I have a pattern I like, I can fuse some interfacing to it to make it last longer.  That said, the way I was taught to cut fabric from this pattern involves either using weights or pinning the pattern to the fabric and then cutting around it.  Although I try to be careful, I always end up trimming the pattern slightly when I do this.  Theoretically, I could trace the pattern first, then cut.  At the moment, I use some fabric pencils, but I find the process kind of cumbersome and a pain because the pencils catch the fabric and everything moves about.  I feel like there's a better way to accomplish this in case anyone has an idea.  Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5945" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T02:57:42.670" Title="How to reuse a sewing pattern without damaging it" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5335" CreationDate="2018-08-10T08:49:59.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can maybe cover the pencil shades by using the charcoal pencil.This will make it even darker, but I think that a tiny bit of erasing would just be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5946" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T08:49:59.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2018-08-10T12:14:21.527" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you tape the pattern to the fabric (not loosely, but so that the edges are well taped all along) with masking tape, it would be much easier to cut along the edge (together with the tape). Later, masking tape is easily removed from fabric, but you wouldn't need to remove it from the pattern (it would even make it more durable). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If the masking tape sticks on too well and there is a danger of damaging the fabric at removing, then, before taping a piece on, tape it to a random cloth surface and peel it off - it will pick stuff from the fabric and become less sticky. Repeat as many times as necessary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a theoretical suggestion - I haven't tried it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5947" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T12:14:21.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2018-08-10T13:52:51.247" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly reuse my own patterns, as I myself have a few favorites that have been incredibly helpful to me. I use the technique I was taught in a theatrical costuming class:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When cutting the pattern out, cut closely around the outermost size lines (there is no need to be exact at this stage, but try not to leave huge chunks of tissue behind)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pin or weight the pattern to the fabric as normal&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When cutting the piece out, &lt;strong&gt;cut the fabric layers only.&lt;/strong&gt; You'll do this by slipping your shears under the tissue, and cutting while following along with the appropriate sizing line above. If there are areas where there is a single line for all sizes, feel free to cut all layers at that point, but anywhere that's graded should be cut from underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This takes a little getting used to, especially in tighter curves, but with a little practice it becomes second nature. And occasionally (especially in the beginning) you'll nick the pattern tissue, but a little clear tape can easily patch it up, and make it a bit more resilient in that area as well. Similarly, if you pin the pattern (as I do), eventually some of the pinhole areas will start to wear out, but again, they are easily patched with clear tape. I suggest clear over any other options as it makes it much easier to see your scissors as you're cutting underneath the tissue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're done cutting, use a fabric marker or tailor's chalk to transfer your markings from the pattern as normal, patch the paper with tape where necessary, then carefully refold it (along existing lines if possible, or neatly if it's older and the lines are no longer easy to find). You can tuck it back into the paper envelope if the pattern will still fit, or use a gallon size plastic zipper bag to collect the pieces and envelope together for storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using this technique, and some of the same pattern pieces, for years. One particularly useful pattern has been reused more times than I can count since 2003, and continues to be both usable and useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources: Instruction from a costume construction class, nearly two decades of experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T13:52:51.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5335" CreationDate="2018-08-10T15:53:40.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried using a matte workable fixative? I have found it works well in subduing the gloss of harder pencil lines which can make them appear fainter and also adds a mild sheen to charcoal which can make it appear a bit lighter. The charcoal can also be lightened up a bit by carefully blotting with a dry soft cloth, paper towels or kneaded eraser if you need to do so. Also, if you were using soft stick charcoal on the dress area, using a harder charcoal pencil in the face area to add more depth in the darker areas might also work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2458" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T15:53:40.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5306" CreationDate="2018-08-10T19:12:37.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found over the years that sometimes the cheaper crayons and pencils can be better than the expensive ones, but it takes time and experimentation to find what works well and what is truly junk. I've bought some pencils which would literally cut lighter weight papers just as good as a Xacto knife and some crayons which were so hard I wondered if they were actually some sort of prank prop. My experimentation actually led to a realization that what type of paper and mediums I was using made the biggest difference. If you want to use both pencil and crayons finding something the pencils will not tear or indent, but will also grab the pigment of the crayons is necessary. I would suggest a mixed media paper around the 90lb or higher weight, with a rougher surface and a fine tooth. On another note - a good way to reduce art supply costs is working with a limited palette and learning to make a variety of colors through blending and layering. That way you're only buying a few items versus a whole set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2458" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T19:12:37.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2018-08-10T20:29:10.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you evenly apply the glue gently start to apply the paper from one corner using something with a flat side as if you were trying to carefully squeegee water off of a glass window. This trick may not work with thinner paper, but you can use it from small to large projects. Depending on the material you are using, you can also use a Xacto knife to make a very tiny slit and gently squeeze the excess air out if you do find any bubbles or wrinkles before the glue dries. This works with most glues as long as you're not using too much and it's applied evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2458" LastEditorUserId="2458" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T20:34:42.863" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T20:34:42.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3995" CreationDate="2018-08-10T22:37:40.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do is take old lamp shades apart if there is two layers. A layer of thick like poster board sometimes is on bottom. You can always leave it or you can create a new one with poster board. I spray painted the inside of my lamp shades gold or silver and it would just give off a very beautiful glow! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would re-cover the outside of the thick poster board with the fabric I choose (using the same wire from the original I tore apart) an I know in craft stores another places they have these little clips that is used for stuff like that which comes in very handy when attaching the fabric. I also you spray adhesive on the fabric and the center part of the shade to ensure it would adhere then clip the fabric at the top then do the bottom. I would super glue my fabric at the top and bottom to then cut off the excess fabric. There shouldn't be much if measured properly. Basically trace your lamp shade on the fabric while rolling it a little at a time. Starting an ending at the seam or you can take off the poster board from the original shade to use as a stencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, for a professional detailed look, cover the top and bottom edges with trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5950" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T16:22:01.607" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T16:22:01.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3383" CreationDate="2018-08-10T23:05:03.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On some items that were a no-sew diy that I want to make with burlap an I wanted to have with very lil freying so on the back side I squeezed tacky glue in a real fine &amp;amp; slim line around the burlap shape I wanted; an right before the glue started to draw good I took my finger making it flat an smooth to where was not visible from the front and it stopped freying everywhere inside the glue shape an i cut about 1/8 excess past my glue line shape to create a freyed edge but solid every where else ! I know this works for burlap type fabrics but as for other fabrics that are going to be sewed I am not sure ! I'm not on my silhouette Cameo machine I have a great cutting blade that does a wonderful job on every fabric I have tried so far...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5950" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T23:05:03.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3736" CreationDate="2018-08-10T23:15:25.080" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I love the adhesive remover that and other places use the called they removed any kind of of it he said from anywhere from the body to colored hair, wood, glass, an even on some leather that I needed a very small place of adhesive removed so I applied it with the q-tip ! An this stuff is acetone free ! But also try other adhesive remover like Goof-Off &amp;amp; ect... I would also get a scrap piece of leather and try rubbing alcohol because I know it removed paint and glue from clothes an everything else; so you most likely have a little scrap piece of leather lying around that you could try it on !! But now I always put a leather protectant spray on my leather a day or so before I do any Leatherwork just to help them so they have a little more resistantance to any mistakes are accident that I might make &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5950" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T23:15:25.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2786" CreationDate="2018-08-10T23:50:47.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use glitter blast spray paint that can be found at Walmart you do repeated thin coats letting it dry between each coat ! And before you try the glitter blast you can mix them glitter and the clear Elmer's glue and brush it over your poster board then after its tried a day apply glitter blast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5950" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T23:50:47.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-12T16:02:08.737" Score="7" ViewCount="5527" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am trying to draw a rectangle or square on a piece of paper I can use existing corners of the paper as a start point. However I lose accuracy when completing the square or shape on the inside of the paper. In some cases I plan on cutting this and using it a template. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measure corner to corner to verify accuracy and I usually have to settle for good enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had a square (ruler) I don't think I would be having an issue or at least not be adjusting my lines as often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using just a plain ruler and pencil is it possible to draw a perfect or near perfect square or rectangle? i.e. set of 4 right angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T02:50:51.107" Title="How can I draw right angles with just a ruler?" Tags="|drawing|paper|pencils|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3736" CreationDate="2018-08-12T16:35:54.240" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of good answers here. Since we are a &quot;working&quot; Leather shop I think we can add to the comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My wife says to use leather-specific double sided tape instead of superglue, it's stronger then the fabric type. Tandy carries it or plain Scotch double sided tape, Stationary Supply has it too, look for 3M. (Tandy holds firmer, not a winning point for your application usage.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Our experience is that, first, Use Veg tanned leather only.  Note that you can usually always go darker, but not lighter, unless your using acrylic paint Blick's Art Supplies carries a new leather paint called Angelus, (3.99 a color)more variety of colors and absorbs into leather better then any other paints.&#xA;The nude areas that need dye are best by applying it with an air brush, I use an Iwata, but the economical ones do a passable job. Dobbers, paint brushes leave streaks or blotches I have never been able to use those yet.  My wife reminded me to just use Make-up sponges, you can find them easiest at the 99cent store a bag for $1.00 for 20 -36 small  Little wedges, use and discard, dye goes on smooth, or any store that sells make-up, Walmart, CVS, Rite-Aid, etc will also have them.&#xA;Some folks use a rag with some thinning agent on the rag first then the dye. As mentioned be Very careful mixing solvents, i wouldnt use same rag in mixing. They are highly combustible. Another &quot;trick&quot; is to Wet the leather with the solvent to create a &quot;Marbled&quot; look, drawback is that it dries the leather some. This can be counter acted by minkoil (will darken it deeply and soaks in be careful, try a sample first.) Best is Also a Product called Leather Amore, its made by Bee Natural, you can find them online. Please dont use ANY Leather products that contain Petroleum products. Labels will say. Good luck, happy manufacturing. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5957" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2018-08-13T16:07:40.653" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T16:07:40.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2018-08-12T17:04:55.157" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the 3-4-5 method of creating right angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin with a construction line and mark a zero point and a 3 point. Make a mark. Notice that I'm not using units of measure. You can use millimeters (preferred) or inches or anything in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw from the zero point at a right angle as closely as possible. Measure from the zero point to a 4 point. Make a mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure from one of the marks to the other and it should be a 5 point. If so, you have your right angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, you will have to erase or otherwise ignore the second line and create yet another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer using metric measurements for this type of project.  You can adjust the numbers to fit your workspace. Let's say that you have a small piece of paper on which you wish to create your square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first line could be 90 mm long (3 * 30), while the second line would be 120 mm (4 * 30) and the points should be 150 mm apart (5 * 30).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of drawing the second line as described above, consider to have a piece of paper with the length necessary for the conditions (120 mm) and position it with the zero point on the first line. Move the paper in an arc until it meets with your 150 mm point on the ruler. You can then mark the base paper with your points for a perfect square without having to erase misplaced lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in the image below, greater accuracy is gained with larger distances. The quality of the measuring instrument also plays a factor, but only a minor part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCbjB.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCbjB.png&quot; alt=&quot;3-4-5 right angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-08-12T17:04:55.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-14T08:07:51.970" Score="4" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working on some hats for only a little while and I saw a pattern that has on there to work the pattern in garter stitch. Is it possible to do the pattern on double pointed needles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5965" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T18:14:49.107" Title="Can you do a Garter stitch on double pointed needles?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5379" CreationDate="2018-08-14T09:16:15.257" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&#xA;Assuming you still intend to work in the round, you'll need a stitch marker for the start of the row. You'll need to ironicly alternate between plain and purl each row. Otherwise you'll just get stocking stitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to work flat which given the pattern is garter it probably is. I would recommend cables over DPNs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastEditorUserId="3094" LastEditDate="2018-08-15T23:07:35.247" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T23:07:35.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2018-08-14T09:20:18.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on cutting anyway fold the paper.&#xA;For squares you can measure along your straight edges and then fold up a triangle using your 2 marks for your corners. You can then trace the edge of the paper to get the other sides of the square. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rectangles you can fold each side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T09:20:18.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2018-08-14T09:53:17.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mum transferred a couple of her favorite patterns to heavy interfacing. They stand up to getting pinned without reusing holes, I find them easier to draw around too. A solution to your drawing problem &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be to make small marks, for straight sections I find marks a similar distance to the length of my scissors is enough. Groin/armpit/shoulder curves I put my marks cm or 1/4 inch apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vOTy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand on a circular, with a fork on carpet next to it&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find if I hold my pattern and fabric down like this &amp;amp; put my marks between my finger and thumb, nothing moves; I have my pattern pinned to my fabric. I'm using a flyer to stand in for a pattern as mine are in storage at my other house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T09:53:17.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2018-08-15T08:50:41.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not possible using only a ruler. The only way I know of to do this in the physical universe as absolutely perfectly as possible is to use a compass and a straightedge. This method requires no measuring, but only accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfOXr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfOXr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First draw a circle, making sure to leave a mark at the center.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick any point on the circle as the position for the center of a circle with the exact same radius.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a line through these two radii and use the intersection of line and circle to place the center for the third circle and draw one there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the center outward, draw lines through the intersections of conjoining circles. Where these lines meet, draw a line down the center to construct your perpendicular and solve for the bisection of the circle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect the dots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image is my own work. CC-BY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T08:50:41.277" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-15T13:14:42.537" Score="1" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;The style of line-drawing that I am asking about is exemplified by the two images below. It's an economical style that uses little or no shading, and conveys curvature by using small lines or clusters of lines. I've pointed out some examples in the first image. An example in the second image is the inverted U halfway down the lefthand side of the bottom leftmost shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llkfX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/llkfX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;[ Image: from Cartooning Self-Taught by Bill Nolan, via the Internet Archive. ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nnwft.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nnwft.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ Image: from Illustration No. 2 in The Vilppu Drawing Manual by Glenn Vilppu, via If You Can Draw a Form, You Can Draw EVERYTHING by Rochelle Krause ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter image is from an exercise where Vilppu asks the reader to draw forms made from overlapping spheres quickly, to help learn to draw gesture in people. The lines he draws near their intersections convey form adequately, at least to my visual system. So do those in Nolan's little booklet. Unfortunately, neither artist explains how to decide what lines to draw. Nor do other art books I’ve looked at. Some artists have told me that they had to learn this by looking at lots of examples. But it takes lots of time to find examples and work out how they convey shape information. So I want a better answer than &quot;look at examples&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps towards another kind of answer are given by recent research papers on non-photorealistic rendering. The Princeton Graphics Group have done a lot of work on this. They’ve analysed line drawings by skilled artists to try and find a mathematical description of these lines. That is, how they depend on illumination, surface curvature, and other properties. And they’ve written programs that draw in similar styles to these artists. The site is down, unfortunately, but here’s an image that Google has cached from one of their research papers, showing the kind of style they’re interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uj053.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uj053.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[ Image: by Princeton Graphics Group, via Google Images ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in principle, such work could provide an answer. But until it does, can anyone point me at a concise set of rules for where to draw these curvature-denoting lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, just to preempt some possible responses, I already know that T-junctions in line drawings give cues about occlusion. That's part of what's going on here, but there's more to these little curvature lines than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5973" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T22:01:34.967" Title="When drawing shapes made from overlapping spheres, how should I draw the lines that indicate curvature near the intersection?" Tags="|drawing|sketching|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-16T21:19:11.047" Score="5" ViewCount="1139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking for a tutorial on how to make a table top with a mosaic of capiz shell. I have quite a lot left from making a chandelier style lampshade and I thought an accent table might be nice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I did find some very vague instructions for a cigar box, but it didn't say what kind of glue or grout to use other than to use clear or white, or what would properly seal it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then something else said something about softening the shells and I got completely baffled. I need help. Thank you in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to make a table like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.worldmarket.com/product/round-white-capiz-coffee-table.do?sortby=ourPicks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGlWM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGlWM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;click to enlarge&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5943" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T19:45:37.867" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T15:03:36.540" Title="Capiz shell table top" Tags="|adhesives|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-17T20:50:29.973" Score="2" ViewCount="6165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi what I'm trying to do is some &quot;light art&quot; with simulating a sunset. For that I'm able to create all colors and fading between them in different speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I'm missing is the actual color sequence that is happening during a sunset. My first approach is some kind of a black to a dark blue to red to orange to yellow to white. But it looks artificial and not natural. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I get this (and other) sequences? Preferably which a whole bunch of intermediate steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5980" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T08:06:22.940" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T08:06:22.940" Title="Color sequence of a sunset" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="176" CreationDate="2018-08-18T01:04:16.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a little clove oil on a cotton ball and throw it in my covered palette. The clove oil slows down the oxidation process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5981" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T01:04:16.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5387" CreationDate="2018-08-18T06:42:05.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pallet of a sunset is not just a steady transition from one color to the next.  Variations in the air density and the presence of passing clouds add diversity and contrast to every moment of the setting.  Even when it is captured in a still image, that static frozen moment contains thousands of colors, tones and intensities.  And much of the beauty of a sunset in motion, comes from the different elements switching places in relation to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a cloud for example.  Before the sun beings to set, the cloud is white and intangible against the constant blue sky.  Then as the sun dips down to touch the horizon, the cloud darkens, falling into solid silhouette while the sky blazes out in ever brightening shades of orange and red.  Then as the sun settles below sight, and the sky darkens, the clouds loose much of their own darkness and solidity, returning to a pale gray shadow of their former intangible brightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty is not just in the transitioning sky.  It also grows from the continuing interplay of all elements which make up the close of day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this doesn't help you choose your light sequence, but I hope that it helps you understand why just a sequence comes off artificial and unnatural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T06:42:05.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5387" CreationDate="2018-08-18T06:58:13.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;My first approach is some kind of a black to a dark blue to red to orange to yellow to white.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by getting rid of the black and the white, as the darkest sunset sky is maybe a deep blue or purple, and lightest part, the sun, is yellow. I suggest you use a photo of a sunset you like to give you an idea of the colors to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5944" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T06:58:13.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-19T22:06:09.427" Score="6" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have El Greco acrylic paints, purchased and opened some 1.5 years ago, of course, I open them only when I use them. But now I observe that water is not an efficient solvent for them any more. I don't manage to arrive at delicate, soft, liquid, flowing paint easily. Should I use some additives or some other solvent for my acrylics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, at the end I managed to liven up my paints but the flow is still not so smooth and liquid as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2461" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-08-20T08:31:26.567" LastActivityDate="2023-04-12T02:26:16.483" Title="How can I make my old acrylic paints dissolve and flow freely again?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5394" CreationDate="2018-08-20T07:06:49.967" Score="22" ViewCount="4096" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please correct me if I am wrong, but from what I observe, you can easily get 100-150 colours in a set of pencils, but if you go for sets of watercolors, there's rarely more than 24-36.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5989" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-01-13T09:22:14.513" LastActivityDate="2023-01-13T09:22:14.513" Title="Why do pencils offer a larger color variety than watercolors?" Tags="|watercolor|color|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5393" CreationDate="2018-08-20T08:28:34.933" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is quite simple really: &lt;strong&gt;you can mix watercolours (and paints in general), whereas you can't easily mix coloured pencils.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: If I have two different blues - a light and a dark - and I want a blue that's halfway in between, with watercolours I can just take roughly equal quantities of each, mix them together and use that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With pencils, I would have to apply both, and try and get the shading &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; right so that you end up with a medium blue rather than an uneven mess. Because this is more difficult, people prefer to have a wider range of colours, and so because there's a market for it, manufacturers sell this wider range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T08:28:34.933" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2018-08-20T14:32:05.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iron heavy interfacing to the back of the pattern. This will make the pattern a lot more durable. This is a trick I learned from Nancy Zieman(RIP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4512" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T14:32:05.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5393" CreationDate="2018-08-20T15:41:35.093" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something else that may help to explain the difference is that watercolor painters can be quite picky about which paints they choose for mixing.  Each watercolor paint is made from 1 or more pigments, which are some sort of substance that is used to make the color.  For example, the color winsor yellow deep contains one pigment: PY65.  In contrast, cadmium yellow contains two pigments: PY35 and PO20.  Since watercolor is translucent, mixing colors can be a delicate process, and the more &lt;em&gt;pigments&lt;/em&gt; that are mixed into a single color (regardless of how many different tubes of paint are used), the muddier the color gets.  So, if you're buying a good quality watercolor paint set, it is likely to include mostly single-pigment colors and few pre-mixed (two-pigment, three-pigment, etc.), since single-pigment paints can be mixed more easily before becoming muddy.  If the paint set included 100 different colors of paint, many of those colors would already contain three or four pigments, and would not mix or blend well with other colors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You can find more information about watercolor paints at pigments at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/palette1.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/palette1.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6002" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T15:41:35.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5392" CreationDate="2018-08-20T18:03:50.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that you are encountering a problem with the clumping of additives or fillers, because in a closed tube it is rather impossible to have acrylic dry. You could try to regrind them with a heavy glass pigment grinder, which would probably help to disperse the clumps. Instead of water also try adding a bit of acrylic medium or binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T18:03:50.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5522" CreationDate="2018-08-21T01:47:08.527" Score="9" ViewCount="12959" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spirit Gum is a brush on liquid adhesive used for attaching prosthetics, and other special effects to the body without harming the skin or the prosthetic. However, stores only carry it around Halloween here. Is there an alternative to it that I could use, that won't damage me or or the special effects, that I could pick up at a crafting store like Hobby Lobby or even a place like Walmart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6012" LastEditorUserId="6012" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T09:27:31.463" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T11:50:21.333" Title="Alternatives to Spirit Gum?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5387" CreationDate="2018-08-21T02:40:44.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many versions of sunset. What colors will you be using depends on what type of sunset are you planning to paint. It is always the best to go out and observe. As always, I will be talking from my own experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise you to look at these pages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munsell_color_system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munsell color system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.universetoday.com/77115/why-is-the-sunset-red/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why is the sunset red?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will find it very interesting. It will help you understand colors a little bit better, or should I say - the light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As sun sets lower, thanks to atmosphere, it gets more orange, sometimes even red, and also changes the &lt;em&gt;visible&lt;/em&gt; size. Lets say this the entire explanation (it is not) because, for more details, it would take hours to write.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take these colors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prussian Blue &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cadmium Orange &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flesh color (or Raw Sienna or Naples Yellow) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cadmium Red and Rouge Red  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Burnt Sienna  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cadmium Yellow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arthipo.com/winsor-and-newton-winton-oil-colour-prussian-blue-37-ml.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prussian Blue&lt;/a&gt; can be used instead of black. Take a look at the beauty of that color. Sometimes, limited palette that we have can make someone go for black color, and I understand it. Black color is nice, sure, but it will kill the vibrant color of the sunset. That is why you should use Prussian Blue! &#xA;When mixed with red, it will produce nice purple glow, and purple can be seen at sunset. I cannot explain how much I love to use this paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arthipo.com/winsor-and-newton-winton-oil-colour-cadmium-orange-hue-37-ml.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cadmium Orange&lt;/a&gt; is for the strong light Sun gives us at Sunset. You need Sun to glow. After all, it is an explosion that we see. Cadmium Orange, when applied, can get you closer to that glow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arthipo.com/winsor-and-newton-winton-oil-colour-flesh-tint-37-ml.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flesh color&lt;/a&gt; Use it instead of white. It looks pink-ish, but it is not. If you need to make some area lighter, mix it with this color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White - use it as a background for glowing areas. This is how it works. If there is an area you would really want to make strong in color, first paint it with white. Wait for it to dry. Paint over it with the specific color. In the picture below, I would use it for the Sun. Sometime you will not be able to produce such pure light that can be found in nature, so applying some background before painting is something you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arthipo.com/winsor-and-newton-winton-oil-colour-burnt-sienna-37-ml.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Burnt Sienna&lt;/a&gt; - to darken some areas that are opposite of the lit side, use this color. Example: on clouds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cadmium Red - is just perfection to get the glow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rouge Red - mixed with Prussian Blue gives deep color of the sunset sky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cadmium Yellow - it gives extra glow for the Sun and clouds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winsornewton.com/na/discover/resources/colour-charts/winton-oil-colour&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a color chart to help you out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is a problem. This is not the only palette. Sunset can be more red, more yellow, more purple...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short: for sunset go for colors that are in ranges of yellow, orange, red, purple, blue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say that sequence would be: Prussian blue/ Prussian Blue mixed with Rouge Red/ Rouge Red (not too much) / Rouge Red with Cadmium Red/ Cadmium Red (not too much)/ Cadmium Red mixed with Cadmium Orange/ Cadmium Orange mixed with Cadmium Yellow at the very end (preferably just glimpse of it at certain areas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwFM3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwFM3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sunset - from Wikipedia&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...look at this picture above! It breaks that sequence! That is because sunset is not so uniform. But lets examine it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lightest part is the Sun itself. I would use white. Wait for it to dry. I would apply Cadmium Orange. But that would not be enough. I would wait for it to dry to the point where I can glaze over it with Cadmium Orange. Glazing is what you should be using here. Light scatters all around, and you need it to show. Mixing colors will not produce that effect. Glazing will. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The darkest color on that picture is not black. That is purple glazed over with Burnt Sienna and Cadmium Red. So, I would use Prussian Blue First. Mix it with some Rouge Red. That will produce fine, dark, purple color. Then, glaze over it with Burnt Sienna (but only at the darkest parts) and with Cadmium Red where dark parts of the clouds start to meet lighter clouds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clouds at the top are on fire. I would use Flesh Color to mix with Cadmium Red and Orange. The lightest parts seem so light and fluffy, so you need to make them thin. I would use white and glaze over it with Cadmium Yellow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helped. It is not enough and it never will be, but it should be fine for the rough start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I used these links because they were the easiest to find when typed in Google Search. My goal was not marketing of these products. You can take any brand you like, if it works for you. I, myself, am using many different brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T02:40:44.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5384" CreationDate="2018-08-21T03:00:05.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understood the problem well, I would say above examples are using &quot;the rule&quot; of &lt;strong&gt;line weight&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me some time to find these videos. Since I am not an expert on this subject, I thought letting professionals explain it was much better idea. I have been given advice to try an summarize the content of the video. I somehow find it unfair towards artist. However, I will try to add more details by using the knowledge I have. However, consider watching these videos done by artists who are really experienced in that field:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0zl5NnEAyU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to think about line weight&lt;/a&gt; video. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnbofS58ieQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Line Weight (CtrlPaint.com)&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;  and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MldkhPOf10o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Line Weight: when to vary it and why?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What is line weight and what can it do?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To simplify, line weight is the weight you put on your pencil while drawing and thus producing darker or lighter lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be precise: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Weight refers to the strength, heaviness, or darkness of a line&#xA;  against the background. It can be achieved through different&#xA;  thicknesses, intensities, and sometimes even different patterns -&#xA;  dashes, dots etc. Traditionally, you would generate a heavier line by&#xA;  applying more pressure, or by angling the pencil to produce a thicker&#xA;  line. Today, you can find pens with different nib sizes, and pencils&#xA;  and leads with different hardness to aid the process of producing&#xA;  different line weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To indicate closer objects, overlapping edges or stronger parts of an objects as well as curves where the shadow would fall, thicker line is used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To indicate objects in the distance, edges of the objects behind other objects or to draw parts where a light would fall, thinner line is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PoGF4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PoGF4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To analyze this drawing lets take a look at thicker lines. &#xA;Thicker the line, more weight it has. Following what I stated above, I have concluded that light, on this particular drawing, comes from upper right corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thick line is on his right arm, exactly where your arrow is pointing. It is under the arm, which means an indication of shadow. &#xA;Another is on his back, precisely under your left arrow. That means, shadow is falling on his left side. If you inspect drawing more, you will see that most of thick lines are on the left side or &quot;under&quot; his clothing. &#xA;The line under his coat is also thick, which indicates that his coat, or jacket, has been lifted as he is trying to throw the bowling ball. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One big hint to this is the shadow artist drew on the left leg of this character. Where the darkest areas are, artist drew couple of parallel lines to indicate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can do the same by following lighter (thinner) lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets take a look at the area where you left arrow is pointing. &#xA;It is  indicating curvature. Obviously, our character has &quot;stronger back&quot;. However, that particular part of the line is lighter because the light is hitting that part of the character's body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying this reasoning to other parts of the same drawing (or other drawings) will show the pattern which will become easily recognized further on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KL0c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KL0c.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, these sketches are using the exact same rule. I am not sure is the &quot;rule&quot; right word to use. Maybe approach, principle or technique would suit it better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at lighter lines: that is where the light is hitting the object. You will see, that on the opposite side heavier line is drawn. This does not always have to be this way. It all depends on how many light sources you have, what object your are trying to represent and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the pattern is there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lets summarize it with some examples&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, by varying the weight of the line we can indicate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Curvatures (but also pointy things!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shadows and light&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Distance - adds depths, adds more dimension to the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7C4u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7C4u.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hRHAa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hRHAa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add stronger muscle, artist is using heavier line. That makes perfect sense if we think about it in this way: If a person is standing in such a way that light is hitting them from the right side, left side of that person's body will be more dark. The further the body part from the light is, the darker it gets. So, if we want to draw someone who has huge muscles, or any curves to generalize it, the bigger the curve is, further away from the light source is positioned which means it is darker. On the other side, if curvature is being hit by the light, bigger the curvature, lighter the line is, because, now, our body part is getting closer to that light. &#xA;In real life this can be seen. The more we lit one side of the object, the lines of that side are becoming more or less noticeable (depending on the background)because of the reflection of that light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P2ygM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P2ygM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image taken from www.researchgate.net.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4YXx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4YXx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavier line is on the side where shadow is cast. Lighter line is on the side where light is hitting the surface/arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 3:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvmHB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvmHB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further away, lines get lighter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These steps are applied in the drawings you posted. &#xA;However, these steps do not have to be followed precisely. Sometimes, you can just vary the weight of the line and get nice results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Screenshots are taken from videos I posted above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastEditorUserId="460" LastEditDate="2018-08-24T22:01:34.967" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T22:01:34.967" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5403" CreationDate="2018-08-21T04:46:13.323" Score="0" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;Who is the person in the picture? I'm thinking he might be famous but I can't be sure... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kW7jo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kW7jo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6015" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T11:56:28.873" Title="Who is the person in this artwork?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-08-26T20:54:44.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5402" CreationDate="2018-08-21T11:56:28.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roy Lichtenstein, 'Roy I' by Chuck Close&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6021" LastActivityDate="2018-08-21T11:56:28.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2018-08-22T05:46:34.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I technique that I have seen is tracing your self-drafted and favourite commercial patterns onto card stock. The pattern can then be used longer with out being badly damaged. As card holds it's shape you can also cut out darts for easy tracing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drawback though is that card stock is bulkier and takes up much more room than pattern tissue to store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T05:46:34.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2018-08-22T16:18:30.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to offer using clear packing tape. Believe it or not, if you cover the entire pattern pieces, not only will it strengthen them, but you can see through the tape, you can pin through it, and then actually reuse the same pin holes. It will withstand continuous pinning as well. This method will allow your pattern to last for years and years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6030" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T16:18:30.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5411" CreationDate="2018-08-22T17:53:25.197" Score="5" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to build some decorative aquatic animals that will be inside a big fishbowl in a shopping mall. The question is: Can I use latex to create these pieces, or the latex deteriorates when submerged in water for a long time? The decoration must be underwater for at least 1 month (the longest the better) before needing any maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4744" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T03:21:45.287" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T10:20:30.863" Title="Does latex perform well underwater?" Tags="|material-selection|preservation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5412" CreationDate="2018-08-24T13:38:29.280" Score="1" ViewCount="1004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a custom enclosure for small animals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering whether non-toxic and chew proof plastic exists and what is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6035" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-08-30T16:35:21.087" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T16:35:21.087" Title="Mice/hamster chew proof plastic material" Tags="|material-selection|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5408" CreationDate="2018-08-24T22:53:43.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Latex will survive at first, but you will need to consider the hardness and any other chemicals that might be in the water. Depending on the water’s properties and the grade of your latex, it might be falling apart sooner rather than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend for your application that you consider using casting silicon, which is a two part component that you will mix and pour into forms. Alternatively you can “brush” it onto fiberglas mesh - or even on top of styrodor foam that you have shaped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also silicon paints that are very robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&#xA;Latex is an organic material, and organic materials decompose. Depending upon the aggressiveness of the environment this can happen slowly or quickly. Microorganisms can assist this, as can acidic water or water that has chemical additives, such as chlorine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding toxicity of silicon, some grades, when hardened, can even be used for food preparation and can withstand great temperature changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-08-25T10:20:30.863" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T10:20:30.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5409" CreationDate="2018-08-25T06:20:05.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smooth surfaces without ridges or angles for teeth to grab onto are as important to a successful design as your material choice.  Think of your enclosure design from the point of view of its occupant.  Any joint between two surfaces which are narrow enough to fit between its teeth will become a focus for gnawing.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vtvV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vtvV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Good Design Practices&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air vents are also common weak points because simply drilling a hole in an otherwise flat wall leaves a right angle which hamster teeth can work with.  Metal vent covers can fortify these necessary weak spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturing can also play a part in making an escape proof cage.  3D Printer surfaces, no matter how hard the plastic, will have ridges in them that hamster teeth can find and exploit.  There are chemicals which can smooth out these ridges, but they may not be food safe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for plastic types, there are food safe versions of most of the hard plastics.  PET or PVC would probably serve your purposes, but for absolute certainty, I would make the surfaces that need to be transparent out of glass and the rest out of sheet steel.  Plastics are great for a lot of projects, but hamsters are world class escape artists and they deserve a cage that can truly test their capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2018-08-30T13:16:44.883" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T13:16:44.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-25T20:31:05.377" Score="0" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is an Arts and Craft question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to replace a hard foam pad on a sander. Manufacture wants over $20, but I know I can make one for a lot less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pad would need to be 4 x 4 x 1/8 inch thick and fairly hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can trim a sheet down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any ideas. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-08-29T18:46:25.997" LastActivityDate="2018-08-29T18:46:25.997" Title="Hard foam pad replacement" Tags="|maintenance|rubber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5418" CreationDate="2018-08-26T00:17:36.880" Score="2" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am constructing a stop-action character in the shape of a rabbit, and I am looking for suggestions about materials and techniques that I can use to build its major body components and fur. I am comfortable using any tools or materials that might be best suited to the task at hand, and within reason high material costs and complicated processes are not out of the question. Soft non-hardening modeling clay will not work, as Jack will be transported to a great many locations both indoor and outdoor - so being robust is of great importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The armature is being manufactured by a wonderful craftsman in the UK, and this is what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLhzH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLhzH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;malvern armatures&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the drawing, the armature is rigid, but also composed of flexible joints at logical parts of the skeleton - so the body must also allow for this - by either being flexible or of discrete components. A combination of the two is also possible. Being lightweight is also beneficial, as standing on his hind legs is a desirable pose. Can you recommend a good approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally I need a resource for the fur (which should seem realistic) and a method of application. I prefer not to go to a taxidermist, but if all else fails - then that is what I will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T20:08:24.487" Title="Building a stop-action rabbit figure" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5414" CreationDate="2018-08-26T09:58:51.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Addressing only the armature in my answer, I suggest that you may be able to make use of flexible lubricant/coolant pipes commonly used in machining equipment, but useful in so many other ways. I've created a 3D printed bracket to turn one into a bicycle helmet mirror support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yl2dw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yl2dw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flexible piping&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below comes from an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/12pcs-Plastic-Flexible-Adjustable-Water-Oil-Coolant-Pipe-Hose-Round-Nozzle/232901087781?hash=item3639fc9225:g:NV0AAOSwLrdbenFb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay advertisement&lt;/a&gt;, the pipes (12) priced for US$16 including shipping. If you can tolerate China shipping delay, it's even less money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The joints are easily moved, but hold position very well. You can pop them apart for shorter segments, add more for longer. You would have to create your own method to connect a segment out-of-line, but that could be as simple as holding them together and wrapping them with molding material such as clay or hand-moldable-plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T09:58:51.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-26T14:05:07.343" Score="3" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this negative experience with (El Greco) acrylic paints as described in my previous question &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/5392/how-can-i-make-my-old-acrylic-paints-dissolve-and-flow-freely-again&quot;&gt;How can I make my old acrylic paints dissolve and flow freely again?&lt;/a&gt; I tried once more to carefully mix my acrylic paints with water, I tried to do this with Amsterdam brand as well, but the results were miserable - I could not get flowing colors free, there were always lumps and clots and the water and the acrylic were not mixing well. I have heard about acrylic flow improver, but my local store offers only so called &quot;mediums&quot; for acrylic and the flow improvement is not mentioned as good properties for them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - now I am eager to try oil colors paints. There are specializes flax or popseed oils that are marketed as solvents and so - I hope that strong chemistry will make my oil pants into watercolor and tempera quality flowing paints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - is it reasonable to expect that oil paints technique will create more flowing and easy-to-work paints without lumps and clots than acrylic colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially I am looking to try van Gogh brand of oil paints together with popseed oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe I should user terpentine with oils, instead of popseed oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2461" LastEditorUserId="2461" LastEditDate="2018-08-26T14:20:48.757" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T09:22:10.457" Title="Does the risk of lumps and clots reduces when moving from acrylic to oil paints?" Tags="|oil-paint|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5423" CreationDate="2018-08-26T15:47:21.887" Score="5" ViewCount="1464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading a book about figure drawing and it states that opposing curves are an important concept for drawing figures and other forms in nature. Could anyone explain in a simple way what the opposing curves concept is about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6044" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-08-27T09:36:02.683" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T16:34:28.123" Title="What are opposing curves?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5414" CreationDate="2018-08-26T20:08:24.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing a google on &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mackinnonandsaunders.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mackinnon &amp;amp; Saunders&lt;/a&gt;&quot; and &quot;stop-motion&quot; and &quot;materials for puppets&quot; yields that foam latex underneath and silicone molded skins (often made from a plasticine sculpture; and that the mold can take longer than the sculpt) are often used over the amatures on the models that they make for feature films. The main issue is going to be putting in movement capability for expressiveness on the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mackinnon &amp;amp; Saunders made &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.awn.com/vfxworld/corpse-bride-stop-motion-goes-digital&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adjustable face mechanisms&lt;/a&gt; for the puppets on &lt;em&gt;The Corpse Bride&lt;/em&gt; that eliminated the need for face replacement that had been used on &lt;em&gt;Nightmare Before Christmas&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Coraline&lt;/em&gt;, and that single wire you've got for the ear may not allow you to, say, curl over a tip, with any control. So you may still need to build interior support over the armature that can take repeated small movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://stopmotion-modelmaking.blogspot.com/2011/10/puppet-fabrication-methods-and.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This blog entry&lt;/a&gt; lists a bunch of other materials that are probably easier to acquire and use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Urethane foam is also known as cushion foam or upholstery foam. It's generally done by glueing foam on to an armature and shaping with scissors. A skin can be made covered with clothing sewn from fabric. Heads can be made from hard materials like polymer clay or wood, or cast from resin. Hands can be made by coating wire with liquid latex. This is a good simple way to make puppets—easier to animate than clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to take a look around a stop-motion animation messageboard, like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stopmotionanimation.com/forum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.stopmotionanimation.com/forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2018-08-26T20:08:24.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5416" CreationDate="2018-08-27T00:53:13.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, oil paints will be smoother, yes, but you need to know a few things about how it all works, or you will make mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil paint from Van Gogh uses linseed oil. To make a wash, you would add thinner, classically turpentine. The thinner will dry the oil faster, and probably be more like watercolors. Poppyseed is a slow drying oil, and will eventually yellow to some degree, but less than linseed. The finest oil to use is food grade cold pressed almond oil, it makes paint buttery. But don’t eat paint!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add thinner, the paint is lean. If you add oil it is fat. You want to make sure that the layers dry consecutively, so you would paint fat over lean. If you don’t, you will face cracking at some point in the not too distant future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the paint to dry in a matter of days instead of weeks or months, you can purchase a drying agent commonly known as a Japan drier or more technically, a saponifier. Don’t use much and mix it well with the paint. This will generally add a slight blue to your tint and depending on the brand it will make it glossy. I like to use it when glazing, because glazing takes weeks (or even months) to do in the traditional fashion, and the glossy nature is expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don’t get the paint or thinner on your skin, always ventilate while you are painting and keep small children and pets away from your paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-08-27T09:22:10.457" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T09:22:10.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5413" CreationDate="2018-08-27T03:41:36.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray some Dow Great Stuff on a glass pane, then press it down flat with another glass pane to the approximate thickness you need.  Prop the top glass pane up with pencils and give the foam time to harden.  Then separate the glass by turning the top pane (don't lift the corners or the glass might break) and scrape your new foam pad off the bottom pane with a spatula.&#xA;Finally, cut it to fit your sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a different, less grainy consistency, try Plasti-Grip in place of the Great Stuff.  It is softer, but it is smoother.  You may need to build up a clay wall on the bottom pane to help the thinner liquid reach the desired thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2018-08-27T03:52:44.860" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T03:52:44.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-27T09:25:49.463" Score="4" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using spray gun with automatic reciprocator system to coloring stainless steel sheet with some translucent lacquer. However, I found the color is unevenly sprayed and can't figure why is it uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried several ways including:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.Different distance between spray gun and the steel sheet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2.Different angle of the spray gun.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3.Moving speed of the spray gun.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4.Spray times and spray volume.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5.Air pressure of the spray gun.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6.Pressure of the lacquer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;7.Different temp and humidity.(64F~85F, 3X%~7X%)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8.Different spray gun.(Iwata LPA-200 and other locally manufactured spray gun.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;9.Cleaning the gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like blushing but I think it's not blushing because the following reason:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Situation gets better when I tune the air pressure higher while it is believed to be worse if it's blushing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2.I also tried different temp and humidity.(64F~85F, 3X%~7X%)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3.I've tried to heat up the steel sheet to about 85F-90F before spray but still in vain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khvkq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khvkq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vkAi1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vkAi1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQcjU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQcjU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fn5WW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fn5WW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Is there anybody know the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've cleaned it with Acetone before painting. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the plate surface, I'm using hairline or &quot;fine bead blasting&quot; plate, not mirror(No.8) plate. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6045" LastEditorUserId="6045" LastEditDate="2018-08-28T03:27:59.537" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T03:27:59.537" Title="Stainless steel spray coating" Tags="|painting|paint|metal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5421" CreationDate="2018-08-27T14:04:17.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you cleaning the stainless steel before you paint it?  Finger oils left on the surface by general handling can hold onto more lacquer than the areas which were never touched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you might want to lightly sand the steel with a high-grit-count fine sanding paper just to slightly abrade the perfectly smooth surface.  That might allow the lacquer to grip the metal better, allowing for a more consistent and longer lasting coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T14:04:17.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2018-08-27T16:29:19.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a concept used in creating (drawing, painting, sculpting) organic forms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Opposing Curves is no more complex an idea than that curves in nature are rarely if ever related to one another as are parentheses ( ), but that rather they are always offset from / or opposed to one another like the curves in the double helix of a strand of DNA. - from CGSociety&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most simple way to explain this is to say that, when drawing, painting or sculpting organic form, we should never use curves that make the form look symmetrical. Beings are not symmetrical. Objects are. So, to achieve organic form, we should not use curves that make being look symmetrical like the objects are. That is why parentheses are used as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;() - symmetrical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(( - Opposing Curves - not symmetrical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;)) - Opposing Curves - not symmetrical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you draw a continuous line with opposing curves, you will notice really nice and smooth flow moving down that line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we look at the human body (or any organic form), we can see many curves but those curves are made of smaller curves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Curves also never curve inward ~ curves are always convex, and never concave. Artists, particularly when they are starting out, draw curves which scoop inward, toward the interior of the form - when in fact, form is created by a series of (sometimes minute) convex curves. - from CGSociety&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to draw an organic form, lets say a human, we should not use Parentheses () curves to depict the form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/99RbK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/99RbK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I explained it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to know more, you can read this nicely written article I found (link is NSFW, due to artistic nudity presented): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cgsociety.org/index.php/CGSFeatures/CGSFeatureSpecial/opposing_curves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cgsociety.org/index.php/CGSFeatures/CGSFeatureSpecial/opposing_curves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-08-28T16:34:28.123" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T16:34:28.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5413" CreationDate="2018-08-27T17:43:31.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a piece of 1/16&quot; rubber sheet. Glued it to bottom of old pad on sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ggm4j56fym0mdl/20180827_122005.jpg?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ggm4j56fym0mdl/20180827_122005.jpg?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the extra thickness, the sand paper is a little harder to fit between clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T17:43:31.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5421" CreationDate="2018-08-28T00:17:55.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try scouring the stainless steel gently with Comet (yes, bathroom cleanser), maybe with a sponge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can substitute a similar brand, like Ajax, but it must be chlorinated. Avoid Bar Keeper's Friend or Bon Ami as I haven't tried those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to keep your strokes in line with the grain of the stainless steel if it has any, and you probably want to experiment on a piece of scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rinse with hot water after scrubbing and wipe dry, but don't touch with bare skin. The hot water speeds air drying. Gloves can help with handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test the surface with a few drops of water. If it beads up, it didn't work. The water should &quot;sheet&quot; and &quot;wet&quot; the surface wherever it goes. The paint works similarly and will normally form a smooth surface tension over the entire surface treated this way, rather than in spots or splotches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scouring &quot;activates&quot; the surface (for a few hours or maybe overnight), increasing the molecular attraction of the applied liquid. Because the liquid molecules are attracted to themselves (which is what causes droplets to form and beading to form on a surface), the surface attraction needs to be greater than that inherent in the liquid. Any oils on the surface inhibit that attraction and cause beading. There are enough hydrocarbons just floating around in the air to coat a surface in a few hours with enough to cause beading. So don't leave it sitting around after cleaning, paint as soon as it's dry if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as increasing the surface area by texturizing the surface just a little, the chlorine in the scouring powder breaks down the surface hydrocarbons with an effectiveness that solvents can never match. A solvent dilutes the hydrocarbons (oils) but all it takes is a layer one molecule thick to disrupt the surface activity and the solvent always leaves some behind when it evaporates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T00:17:55.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-28T19:18:51.610" Score="8" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a sword for cosplay, and I need the material used to be clear, rigid, and lightweight, and to cure properly in such a thin mould (and can be poured into the mould I have, as I'd prefer to not start an entirely new process, although I'm open to any suggestions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a mould made from a platinum-cure silicone rubber. It's a pretty simple shape with a 3mm thickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZM5qp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZM5qp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;left, the blade will be made by connecting multiple together. The center: I&amp;#39;m pointing at where ill put the led strip, facing outwards to light up the plastic. right: the mould used&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;To the left, the blade will be made by connecting multiple together. The center: I'm pointing at where I'll put the LED strip, facing outwards to light up the plastic. To the right: the mould used&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attempted to use a fast cast urethane resin, with a shore D hardness 72 that is clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material I used is mass sensitive (cures better at a greater volume/thickness), and does not get very rigid since the mould is quite thin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any other types of plastics I could use that meet my needs?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can include pictures of the shape I've tried to cast if that would help, or links to the products I've used so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6051" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T12:27:53.617" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T19:11:30.457" Title="Plastics options for molding" Tags="|plastic|mold-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5429" CreationDate="2018-08-30T00:32:43.227" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wish to paint the following dog  on &lt;strong&gt;11&quot; by 14&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fRDpY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fRDpY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also wish to use the following background &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMmkj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMmkj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What size should dog be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically I wish the cluster of houses are in the background, to the Left (I can even zoom into the houses), and dog is in the foreground, to the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3336" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T14:52:38.983" Title="Wish to paint dog in scenic background. What size should dog be?" Tags="|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2018-09-28T06:46:59.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5428" CreationDate="2018-08-30T14:52:38.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know any formal artistic composition rules but how I would handle it is by mocking it up with either Adobe Photoshop or Gimp Photo Editing Software.  (Gimp is free).  Put the background in one layer and the dog in another, then scale and move each until it looks good to you.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TrBmz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TrBmz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dog On Background in Gimp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, just for fun... I apply an oil or watercolor filter to see what the finished product will look like.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qkiz0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qkiz0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dog on Background in Gimp Oilified&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I hire someone with talent because without a computer to do all the hard parts...  I suck at painting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-08-30T14:52:38.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-08-31T19:50:06.050" Score="4" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you want to cut around a jar which is very curved, a traditional glass cutter wouldn't work well, so what would you use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6058" LastActivityDate="2018-09-01T17:31:51.513" Title="What can cut curve curved glass?" Tags="|tool-selection|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-09-02T10:29:33.057" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5432" CreationDate="2018-09-01T17:31:51.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Specifically for cutting glass jars and bottles&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.recyclart.org/2012/02/diy-easy-cut-glass-bottles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-cut-a-bottle-with-string-and-nail-polish-re/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Cut-a-Glass-Bottle#With_Yarn_sub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;method&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.eternaltools.com/blog/bottle-cutting-how-to-cut-a-glass-bottle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;is&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.natashalh.com/how-to-cut-glass-bottles-the-best-way/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;to&lt;/a&gt; use heat shock to break the glass; normally by putting a ring of some form of absorbent string or twine around it, soaking it in acetone or some other fuel, lighting it and then plunging the bottle into very cold water. Some tutorials recommend that you use a glass cutter just to score the surface lightly to increase the stress, so it seems that using a glass cutter might also be possible (if difficult). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;For cutting arbitrary curved glass surfaces&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, a traditional &lt;a href=&quot;https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-cut-glass/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glass cutter&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-use-a-dremel-to-cut-glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dremel&lt;/a&gt; is probably still your best bet. If you're struggling to hold it steady on the curved surface, consider covering it with masking tape to give the piece a more friction - this should make it easier to cut without slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-09-01T17:31:51.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-05T01:13:37.567" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a knitter and I want to design my own turtleneck sweater with lots of cables. Obviously I have to get the gauge of the cables I want to use first before I can see if I need to subtract a cable or not and I need to knit a swatch of basically half the sweater that is as long as my other swatches to see how the cables interact with one another(because the gauge might change when I start adding cables on each side of another cable from the original gauge of just the individual cables) and figure out how many extra stitches to add and all the rest of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the cables I plan to use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y2mRw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y2mRw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Celtic Knot 64 rows 40 stitches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z7wuS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z7wuS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diamond with Moss 32 rows 18 stitches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wkNGA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wkNGA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saxon Braid 16 rows 28 stitches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWPiS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWPiS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 strand braid 8 rows 11 stitches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0P8EY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0P8EY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twist cable: 4 rows 8 stitches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the twist cable, I plan to have the right leaning and left leaning right next to each other on the sweater(which by the way, I plan to knit seamlessly and graft the sleeves to the sweater).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I plan to graft the sleeves to the body of the sweater and the sleeves are knit in the round with no areas of flat knitting that automatically makes it a drop shoulder sweater right? I plan to have my sweater be 1 of 3 types. Either it will be curved to my body(so thinner waist, wider hip and bust), it will be without any shaping, or it will be A line. I think A line would be best for me because I am plus size(curved to my body would just accent my plus size which obviously I don't want). I plan to knit it with worsted weight yarn because I can more easily find worsted weight for a good price than any other yarn weight. I have done gauge swatches with several yarns and from my experience, gauge does not change from 1 yarn to another as long as they are the same fiber and yarn weight(so like worsted weight acrylic for example). Different fibers at the same weight, made in different ways(so like plied yarn vs ribbon yarn), and same fibers at different yarn weights all have different gauges though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So besides gauge, my measurements, shoulder type, stitch patterns and sweater shape, what else do I need to take into consideration when designing a sweater?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1121" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T06:09:21.027" Title="Turtleneck Sweater Design: What to consider?" Tags="|knitting|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5788" CreationDate="2018-09-05T14:09:28.777" Score="2" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to pack paper flowers for shipping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking to use packing peanuts and some newspaper but I'm not sure if this will work and my bouquet will arrive without bents or big damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OpC26.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OpC26.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6069" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T12:11:12.730" Title="Pack kusudama flowers bouquet for shipping" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2018-09-05T20:34:03.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I want a scraper that won't scratch the surface being scraped, I cut the ends of a popsicle stick or tongue depressor (wider) with a new single-edge razor (HomeCheapo) held at a compound angle,  which results in a chisel edge at a 45-degree angle or a simple chisel edge 90-degrees to the length of the stick/depressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6071" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T20:34:03.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2018-09-06T04:41:24.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put the popsicle stick in a vice such that the line to be cut is just above the flat top of the vice's jaws.  Tighten the vices grip on the stick to support and hold motionless the material just below the cut line.   Then use a razor blade to cut the wood using the scoring/multiple cuts technique described in Matt's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T04:41:24.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5435" CreationDate="2018-09-06T09:33:51.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use wire to make the bouquet stay in the middle of the shipping box without touching the sides by attaching the firm part of the bouquet to the sides of the box with it, then adding newspaper, etc. (again to the base), to make sure it doesn't move, just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqljE.png&quot; alt=&quot;shipping&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6074" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T09:33:51.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-06T21:12:05.483" Score="3" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should be done when delivering items to a fair or similar for judging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a ~15&quot; doily I want to submit, but I don't know if they want it in an envelope, sack, or nothing. It's sandwiched between two cake boards right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could also mount it, but I'm not sure I want to go to the trouble, since I was planning on using it, not displaying it, after the fair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions I have offer no help nor means of contact (in fact, the website to submit to was incorrect on their documents this year). My searches return submission details for other places, but even those documents are lacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has some experience, I'd love to hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6078" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T16:42:31.193" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T16:42:31.193" Title="Submitting Fabric/Yarn Craft Items to be Judged" Tags="|crocheting|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-07T12:42:44.523" Score="2" ViewCount="10355" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the hot glued shells have fallen off the frame.  I didn’t sand the frame since it has the color/finish I like and I don’t want to “cover” the frame entirely.  I used Tacky craft glue but it took too long to dry.  Crazy glue didn’t work because not all shells have a smooth surface to attach to the smooth surface on the frame.  Gorilla glue didn’t work because I had to apply water to one surface and then “clamp” it - impossible to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6081" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T09:38:21.423" Title="Type of adhesive to use to attach seashells to a frame already glued to a wall" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-09-15T14:30:28.227" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2018-09-07T14:11:12.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two challenges to your project as I understand it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame (and maybe even the shells) has a nice smooth finish which glues don't adhere to well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame is mounted on a wall, making clamping difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abrading the backs of the shells with a wire brush may roughen them up, allowing glue to hold onto them better.  Drilling small holes through the frame finish in spots which will be covered by shells would serve the same purpose for the frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for clamping, use painter's tape.  After you glued a shell where you want it&#xA;on the vertical frame surface, secure it with tape to give the glue time to dry.  The tape may not be able to supply much pressure to the drying joint, but immobility alone can help form a strong bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those challenges behind you, the choice of glues is based solely on the materials involved.  I've always had luck with gorilla glue which comes in a gel version for flow-challenging uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T14:11:12.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5440" CreationDate="2018-09-07T14:20:10.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with this medium, but I would use the packaging problem/opportunity to present your work in the highest possible style.  Instead of sandwiching it between cake boards, consider using a sheet of acrylic for the top bread and thin wood, stained to a shade which compliments your yarn as the bottom bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a makerspace ( or library with a laser cutter) near you, you can buy the acrylic sheet and plywood from a hardware store (or amazon) and then cut it to the shape and size you need.  You could also drill small holes in the corners of each &quot;slice of bread&quot; and fasten it all together with yarn, using bow knots which can be easily untied by the judges for closer inspection of your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T14:20:10.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2018-09-07T17:57:50.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, I think what i'm about to suggest might be friction, rather than adhesion, but depending on how large the shells are and how hard the frame is, you could try sticking the shells onto your frame with thumbtacks. This would allow you to use a slower-acting glue for the shell/thumbtack bond, as well as allow precise placing of the tack-mounted shells once they're bonded. If there is any risk of the thumbtack being visible make sure to paint the heads with nail polish in a color to match either the shell or the frame. If you are clustering the shells, you might be able to avoid exposed tack heads by gluing them on in these prearranged clusters. When you get to mounting the shells onto the frame, I would advise you to gently &quot;pre-poke&quot; placement holes with a needle pushpin and then slide the thumbtacks in. Ideally you would make the hole smaller in diameter than the thumbtack pin, but if it is loose, a tiny dab of glue would work here too. If you really screwed up and made a large hole, dip a toothpick into elmers glue, stick it in the hole, break it off, then stick the thumbtack into the mushy wood of the toothpick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6084" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T17:57:50.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-07T19:12:25.157" Score="8" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently acquired a large bull skull, rather weather-worn and aged. I would like to make a mold of it so that I can cast it in wax, alter it a bit (add more horns, etc.), and then make a mold of the wax so that I can cast it in something to make a creature head for a project. I'm not familiar with making molds beyond very small jewelry sized things with the silicone putty stuff. My worry is the pits and holes in the skull and getting everything to release. I don't want to ruin the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper material to create a mold from for this particular situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think a plaster mold, which I've done for clay objects, will work for this as I think pulling the mold off will damage the original.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Any advice on what to cast the final mask/head in so that it isn't too heavy would be helpful as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Including image for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzGnV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzGnV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5943" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T12:29:06.003" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T12:29:06.003" Title="Making a mold off of bone" Tags="|preservation|mold-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2018-09-07T20:38:08.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fine-toothed coping saw or jewelry saw would work okay, but I’d think it’d be unwieldy. I own an xacto extra fine saw blade and find it to be fantastically helpful for making straight cuts across all sorts of small stock, including popsicle sticks.  The blade fits into a utility size handle. I use mine so often I keep it in my kitchen drawer. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/blades/detail/X239&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/blades/detail/X239&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6084" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T20:38:08.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2018-09-10T18:17:10.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like using E6000, it works with nearly every surface unless its too slick. If the frame is lacquered and shiny, I would use just a bit of some acetone just on the spots where you are gluing, just to de-slick a little. I also agree with the painters tape to hold things in place while the glue is curing. An alternative to the E6000 that I've used and like is Aleene's Jewelry &amp;amp; Metal glue, its like superglue gel... so, be careful where your fingers are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5943" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T18:17:10.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5445" CreationDate="2018-09-11T12:51:50.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about making the final project mask directly from papier-mache without all the casting: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover the skull in clingfilm to protect it;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Papier-mache parts of it (if you try to do it in one go you won't be able to take the thing out, naturally);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue the parts together;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alter it as you desire - cut some bits here, add some bits there, sand it;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint it, if needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper-mache masks are light, resilient (as long as they are not too thin) and you can waterproof them with a spray if you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6097" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T12:51:50.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2018-09-12T09:38:21.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made many seashell covered frames over many years so I completely understand the problem you are facing by having to glue the shells on a vertical surface. I am confused though because you say that you like the finish on the frame-I usually make sure that the shells completely cover the frame, so it hardly matters what the frame looks like. And if there is any frame showing, it would be minimal. So acetone and sandpaper would really help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, I would definitely opt for E6000 and maybe some very sticky clay. The clay would just be for positioning, the E6000 would be for fixing. And, perhaps, you could even make a mix of the two, that gravity would not pull down. It’s worth a try and not very expensive!&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6102" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T09:38:21.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3998" CreationDate="2018-09-12T17:01:51.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oils in the leather can turn rancid with time, thus becoming a plastic, sticky goo that will transfer to the needle as you stitch. With new leather this is not going to be the problem .. but, just saying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try treating the needle and first few centimetres of the thread with teflon spray, WD-40, or neatsfoot oil .. whichever you prefer. You can also rub a bit of Ivory Soap onto the first 10 cm of the thread near the needle to have a slipperier wax on the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T17:01:51.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3832" CreationDate="2018-09-12T17:07:17.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a sail maker, or yachting supply store, in your area you can find repair kits for Nylon spinnakers (the big sail out front of the yacht while sailing downwind) that can handle a lot of stress. Not the cheapest but a strong solution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3315" LastActivityDate="2018-09-12T17:07:17.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-13T12:40:18.503" Score="4" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be making a cowboy hat for my niece out of cotton yarn. The pattern I am using is a simple working in rounds i.e. making a bowl shape. The &quot;cowboy&quot; comes from using starch to make the brim and shape the top. It also seems a bunch of the patterns I run into use this same mentality. Rely on starch for shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually have no real need to own starch so I wonder if there are other options for helping the hat hold its shape reliably over time besides starch. Or is that the only realistic option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is what the hat looks like once the pattern is done and the completed work. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.projectarian.com/2017/08/21/cowboy-hat-free-crochet-pattern/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From the designer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tip: To help retain the shape, it’s a good idea to starch the hat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I36J6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I36J6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cowboy hat flat and formed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image adapted from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.projectarian.com/2017/08/21/cowboy-hat-free-crochet-pattern/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;projectarian.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2018-09-13T14:40:24.100" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T12:28:07.407" Title="Are there alternatives to starch for stiffening finished yarn hat?" Tags="|crocheting|knitting|yarn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2018-09-13T12:47:05.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of these answers suggest some form of lamination, which is obviously the way to go, so I thought I’d chime in with my two favorite materials for bonding with tissue paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first method is to use freezer paper. This paper, which is cheap and widely available in grocery stores, has a plastic backing that will melt and bond with tissue if you iron it on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second idea I have, which I’ve never used for sewing but I have for just about every other type of durable-paper needs, is to use a tissue-foil lamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a commercial pattern where it’s already printed on a large pice of tissue paper, I’d lay out strips of tin foil (like grocery-store aluminum foil) in a width to match your pattern (you’ll probably need to join strips and can just use a glue stick to overlap joints). Then I’d roll my pattern around a packing tube to help you control it as you do the lamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fastest and most fail-safe method is to coat the foil with a fine spray adhesive, then use the tube to roll your pattern across the sticky foil, which minimizes wrinkles when joining the materials.  I would then flip it over and laminate the other side of the foil with plain white tissue paper for good measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are printing out your pattern and feel daring, you can actually run foil paper through a laser printer. You will get an extremely durable print that can be crumpled and deformed multiple times and stay readable. It is truly like a super-substrate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prepare foil for printing, cover both sides with plain white tissue paper and then be extremely conscientious about cutting down to size (using straight, square cuts). If you don’t laminate both sides, if you leave some foil exposed, if there isn’t a good bond between the layers, oversights like these can ruin or severely damage your printer (I know from experience). Otherwise, you can use this incredibly strong material to print a tiled pattern, join it together, and you will be amazed at how small you’ll be able to fold it (even to the point of crumpling it up completely) and how easily it smooths back out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6084" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-09-13T14:08:59.980" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T14:08:59.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5460" CreationDate="2018-09-15T02:32:31.743" Score="4" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I make the black paint marks on the side of this sign as shown in the photo? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVcoo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVcoo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to make them identical to the photo. I have tried using a foam paintbrush, a rag, and a sponge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6111" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T17:08:22.997" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T17:08:22.997" Title="How to make black paint marks over another colour" Tags="|painting|paint|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5456" CreationDate="2018-09-15T10:37:25.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the wood was painted black first and the red paint was applied afterwards over stencils, most likely with a rolled. So for this effect apply black paint/ink first and red paint/ink with an under-inked roller afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6113" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T10:37:25.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5453" CreationDate="2018-09-15T12:20:33.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with starching is neither extensive nor with crochet items, but in the hopes that it will be helpful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try dilute white glue (school glue/Elmer's/PVA glue). I stiffened acrylic felt with it, and the felt remained flexible, but was definitely better able to keep its shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I don't have a specific dilution to recommend. I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.irarott.com/blog/2015/07/06/stiffening-techniques-for-crochet-decorations/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog post about crochet snowflakes&lt;/a&gt; which says a 50-50 glue-water mixture will make crochet rock hard, so stay well below that. When I did the felt, I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revedreams.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/glue-bath.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;just enough glue to make the water opaque&lt;/a&gt; - it was not a true white, just couldn't be seen through. That wasn't enough! I was able to do a second round of stiffening, though, so it's a forgiving method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were doing this I would use enough glue to make the water true white, soak the hat in it (folded like in the last instructional photo of the pattern), and press out the excess. You could use towels if you immediately rinse them out afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd want it dry enough to shape and stand it immediately like it is in the finished photo, with plastic wrap under it. A couple of times while it's drying I'd rub my fingers on the parts that are in contact with the plastic wrap - my felt showed some shiny spots on the side that was touching the plastic. Not having a drenched piece will help with that, but I'd want to remove or work in any potential glue on the surface as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some side notes to close: If you're finding a lot of interesting patterns that need starching, buying a commercial stiffening product might be worthwhile - they're designed to be easier! People also use Epsom salts (supposed to make the pieces a little sparkly), sugar (similar to Epsom salts, but I wouldn't use this because it seems like a bug magnet), and hairspray (easy for a gentle hold, if you don't mind the risk of a lingering smell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just to say again - this is untested, but it's how I would approach it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5880" LastEditorUserId="5880" LastEditDate="2018-09-15T12:28:07.407" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T12:28:07.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5456" CreationDate="2018-09-15T14:24:32.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is called a vignette. Basically it is a soft blend of the dark edge that frames the outside of a picture (or any image like a photo or movie frame) into the outer areas of the front face. Here I would say they used a rag painting technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply the black paint along the outside edges of the board and along the bevel or rounded edge of the outer face of the sign.  Then with a rag rub toward the center of the front face a short way (around 1/8 - 1/2&quot;) to get the heavier dark edge. Do this with some randomness and skip areas to make it uneven. The action is a little like applying shoe polish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then wipe a little further in toward the center with just a touch of paint on the rag. Likely you will then want to wipe those areas away with a clean rag, maybe with a little solvent on it, to reveal the base color and create the wider faded parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base color has to be dry and oil based paints will work better than acrylics since they dry slower giving you more working time. By varying the pressure as you wipe away the top layer you will get darker and lighter areas. The grain of the wood helps since the valleys hold the paint and the ridges will be wiped away. Do some test runs on a practice board because there is a some finesse to the amount of paint and touch to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T14:24:32.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5463" CreationDate="2018-09-17T00:50:59.720" Score="6" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current project in my sewing group is making a money clip.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My question is whether I should use rubber cement or hot glue to attach the magnets that hold the clip onto the money.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If it helps, the magnets are basically metal and the rest the clip is basically leather. The thread is waxed sewing thread and the needle is (I believe) a plastic needle as the holes are pre-punched. It’s a money clip do-it-yourself kit. If it’s hot glue then obviously I’ll be needing some help as I don’t trust myself with the hot glue applicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just started the money clip:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maeaI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/maeaI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just finished it!:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmZ9q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmZ9q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-28T08:47:14.520" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T08:42:55.537" Title="Money clip rubber cement/hot glue?" Tags="|adhesives|metal|leather|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5462" CreationDate="2018-09-17T08:39:06.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've glued strong magnets to various other things in an industrial context, and even fairly rigid substrates have a tendency to peal off the magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot glue is good &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; it sticks well to both surfaces, and it often doesn't stick very well to things like metal.  It's easy to use too -- try it out on scrap materials and you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much better option is to use a magnet with a hole in (searching on &quot;magnet with hole&quot; will find you many sizes), and fasten through the hole, whether by sewing or some other kind of fastener.  Alternatively sewing the magnet into a pocket can work well, but it doesn't sound like you've got much chance to modify the design.  This option does require strong magnets as you're putting material in between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T08:39:06.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2018-09-19T18:23:21.150" Score="-1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can keep a knife erasure handy along with a putty erasure. Should&#xA;  be sufficient for most needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bad folks, my suggestion was not really descriptive.&#xA;To be honest, &lt;em&gt;knife eraser&lt;/em&gt; is my term. What I meant by &lt;em&gt;knife eraser&lt;/em&gt; is a flat retractable erasure encased in a holder, much like the retractable pencil sharpening knife. &#xA;This has a sharp edge which helps to precisely erase and the retractable casing ensures that the edge remains sharp for long.&#xA;I could not find any pictures for the same, will add one soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6123" LastEditorUserId="6123" LastEditDate="2018-09-25T07:11:29.387" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T07:11:29.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5466" CreationDate="2018-09-20T07:19:17.167" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make some plastic mold for my arcrylic pieces. Is there any good way to create the plastic mold not using vacuum former? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTV8kwML5idmLEbu2lKI3kAoIOPV-86zay-f0ASj9pM26qu57I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vacuum former example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4456" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T09:49:19.697" Title="Making plastic mold from plastic sheet" Tags="|plastic|mold-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2018-09-20T09:49:19.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the material you will be casting in the mold, you may find that you can make use of a product called Hand Moldable Plastic. This product is shipped as small beads which are heated in boiling water per the instructions. I've used a hot air gun, which works faster and increases the chance of burning your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the white beads are heated, you can flatten and join them into sheets. Doing so will cause them to cool and become hard again. Heating the plastic once more, you can then form them around the part you wish to mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a pasta press to form the HMP into 1 mm thick sheets. It cools quickly but also heats quickly when using a hot air gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vacuum former will pull the stock material into crevices and details while this manual method may not provide the same level of detail. You can reheat the plastic as many times as needed and knead it into the model being molded, but I think some detail may be lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HMP is a material similar to that used in plastic milk jugs. It may release the acrylic easily, but I suggest to test it on a non-critical item to be certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T09:49:19.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-23T21:47:46.750" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to build a small birdhouse and plan on having small pea sized gravel adhered to the outside walls. What is the best way to go for adhesive? Is there a good glue in a bottle that can withstand outside temperatures and last a couple years? TiA&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u5CyY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture is example only&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6135" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T21:47:46.750" Title="Adhesive for small pebbles." Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-10-01T12:17:32.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2018-09-23T22:02:20.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drill a small hole in both pieces, get a small piece of thick wire, number 9 worked for me, and some jb weld. I was bored at work one day and made a statue of my buddy with scrap metal and used ball bearings as his biceps. 10 years later it's still in 1 piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6135" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T22:02:20.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6353" CreationDate="2018-09-24T08:12:05.157" Score="5" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a fairly minimal wallet out of an old inner tube (for use while cycling, with one card pocket and one change pocket into which notes can go as well).  The basic structure of my prototype is there, but it's not quite right yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that's annoying is it doesn't lie flat enough.  The folds could do with being creases, especially on the seams (that I've turned onto the inside).  Construction is a mixed of hand-sewn and glued with contact adhesive, and my sewing isn't very tidy so I'd rather not add visible stitching. I also want it to be as small (in terms of area) as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures. The visible glue marks on the right in the second and third shots are where I've removed a strap made from another piece, that's meant to hold it shut.  Some re-working is required there (sewing as well as gluing, for strength).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kh51M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kh51M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Minimal inner tube wallet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OLiDd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OLiDd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Minimal inner tube wallet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aylod.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aylod.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a card in there, it lies flat but the other end, intended for cash, doesn't.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though this is only for my own personal use, I'll probably remake the next attempt from scratch, as the coins escape -- that pocket needs to go closer to the hinge and/or have a flap over it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to press a crease into rubber?  The hinge in the middle and the ends of the pockets both need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T19:36:33.463" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T16:36:26.287" Title="Pressing rubber (butyl)" Tags="|upcycling|rubber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="176" CreationDate="2018-09-25T15:10:07.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mother has been painting professionally for over 70 years, using oil paints. She keeps a fridge in her studio and puts the palette in the fridge overnight at the end of each session, when she has colours mixed that are not used up. Being in the fridge keeps them in the dark as well as keeping them cool (she has spent most of her career in warm countries). If she knows that it may be a few days before she can paint again, she uses clingfilm or similar as well - for longer storage, she puts the palette under a cover as well as using film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T15:10:07.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5531" CreationDate="2018-09-25T22:42:31.607" Score="2" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into creating a Damascus steel ring, but using a rose gold and steel mix. Because of the blending of two metals, I'm curious whether or not there would be durability concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found one example of this being done on Etsy: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/616316545/8mm-damascus-steel-ring-mens-wedding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.etsy.com/listing/616316545/8mm-damascus-steel-ring-mens-wedding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6140" LastEditorUserId="6140" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T18:11:27.740" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T12:59:27.257" Title="Durability concerns with damascus steel and rose gold ring" Tags="|metal|jewelry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-26T16:53:02.353" Score="4" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new-ray &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flyingmule.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;amp;Store_code=AV&amp;amp;Product_Code=NR-25513&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;helicopter diecast toy&lt;/a&gt;. I want to modify it a bit, and one of the plan is to make holes for the windows (square, around 5mm by 5mm). What I'm thinking is to use dremel to drill a small hole (around 2mm diameter) and then enlarge the hole using dremel metal grinder bit. &#xA;However, I'm not sure how to start. &#xA;Dremel bit catalogue has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/628-01-drill-bit-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drill bit for metal&lt;/a&gt;, for soft metal. I am not sure what kind of metal the diecast is. The thickness of the diecast is around 1mm.&#xA;I also checked dremel &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dremel.com/en_US/accessories-speed-settings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;speed guide chart&lt;/a&gt;, but could not find the speed for drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ok to use these drill bits for that purpose? What speed should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6143" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:43:54.797" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T15:29:46.610" Title="How to drill a hole on diecast toy using dremel?" Tags="|tool-selection|metal|metalworking|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5475" CreationDate="2018-09-26T18:19:38.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is zinc, it will drill easily but a dremel is very high RPM. I would suggest an electric drill , battery or plug, and a regular bit. Then square off the corners with a dremel. Zinc is so soft a hand crank drill could do it but I don't think anyone has them anymore. A small chance that it is aluminum - all comments the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T18:19:38.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5475" CreationDate="2018-09-26T18:41:07.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @blacksmith37 that the material is certainly soft and drilling will be quick and painless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (typical) speed of a Dremel is just fine for a drill bit of such small diameter in that material, especially since the material is thin. If your Dremel is variable speed, you can run it about half-speed to be conservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would center-punch (gently and with backing if possible) the intended hole location just enough to locate the drill bit tip so it doesn't wander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any drill bit of the right size will work fine here. 1/16&quot; might be easiest to find at a hardware store (depending on your country/location) and is roughly the right size (1.59mm). 1/8&quot; might work as well, but might be pushing it for the high Dremel RPM and may have more of a tendency to grab when going through. In any case you should secure the work somehow (perhaps using a clamp or padded vise) rather than hold it in your hand while running the Dremel with the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1955" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T18:41:07.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-26T19:06:01.493" Score="4" ViewCount="5154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching for an answer for this, and can't seem to find it!&#xA;I've read a couple other posts about casting silicone, but no answer quite fits what I'm looking to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an autistic child who &quot;chews&quot; on everything. I've looked into buying the &quot;chewlry&quot; that is made for children to chew on (chewable jewelry) similar to a baby teething ring, but I want to figure out how to make this jewelry myself. The chewable jewelry is made with silicone beads. However, I cannot find directions on how to make the silicone beads anywhere. All of my searches result in &quot;how to make silicone &lt;strong&gt;molds&lt;/strong&gt; for beads&quot; I do not want to make the mold, I want to make the &lt;strong&gt;bead&lt;/strong&gt; from silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I saw it previously mentioned that adding a binding agent to the silicone to increase durability would be a good idea. What type of binding agent should be added to make the beads durable and safe for a child to chew on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6144" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2018-09-28T09:39:59.700" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T09:39:59.700" Title="How to make chewable silicone beads?" Tags="|jewelry|food-safe|beads|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5478" CreationDate="2018-09-26T20:52:58.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a food grade silicone in the past that has the consistency of pudding. It is rather soft and very weak and would not hold up in the example you provide. I have used a more expensive silicone, also food grade that requires substantial mixing to get good results, often requiring vacuum degassing for smooth surfaces. In your example, I expect that small surface bubbles may not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to ensure my information is correct, I did a quick search for food grade silicone and discovered that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/smooth-sil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smooth-On&lt;/a&gt; is still in business and provides various degrees of &lt;a href=&quot;http://mykin.com/rubber-hardness-chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shore Hardness&lt;/a&gt; levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second link shows that Smooth-On 960 has a Shore of 60A, which equates to the hardness of a typical automobile tire. That's pretty hard, but that's also an opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a silicone mold in hand, which can be gripped and torn, but I don't recall the hardness figures, making it only slightly useful as an example. A spherical part produced from a mold will be more difficult to tear as it is going to have fewer gripping points (none) unless otherwise damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A search for binding agents results in products used to release parts from molds, not useful in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your mold making question... silicone sticks only to itself. You could make the mold from anything other than silicone and pull the beads after it cures. I have a lead shot split mold that is a series of cavities with tiny funnels into which molten lead is poured. That mold could be split open (empty), immersed in the silicone and then closed and set to cure. It's not a recommendation, as I would not consider the mold to be food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a makerspace in the area, or use Craigslist, you may be able to find someone willing to 3D print a mold from food-safe filament. The mold could be akin to the lead shot split mold but far safer for use in the manner desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T20:52:58.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-27T04:02:58.450" Score="2" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to burn some nametags, but I'm getting inconsistent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image below, the tag on the right, with the reddish scorch marks, is what I'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tags on the left, with the uglier black marks, is what I don't want. The different burns come from fiddling with power/speed settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both instances I've used &quot;standard makerspace plywood&quot;, so there may be a material difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leads to my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What wood will give red-hued scorch marks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What settings will maximize such marks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bVqpJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bVqpJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nametag image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6145" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-16T00:02:48.280" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T00:02:48.280" Title="How do I get reddish scorch marks with a laser cutter?" Tags="|wood|woodworking|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5480" CreationDate="2018-09-27T09:31:31.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scorch marks in the images provided appear to be condensed wood sap, common with laser engraving. They can be completely eliminated outside of the burn area by using a mask, typically ordinary masking tape. I use sign cutter transfer paper high tack as a mask as it requires less laser power for burn-through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scorch marks outside the engraved area is wood sap. The coloration inside the burn area is also wood sap, but is affected by the type of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've engraved laser-grade plywood, which has a &quot;laser-friendly&quot; concentration of binding glue holding the layers. Using wood that is engineered for routers does not exclude its suitability for laser use, but does not guarantee results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another product commonly used with laser cutter/engravers is MDF, which is effectively sawdust and glue. The glue burns/vaporizes and condenses as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of wood will play a large factor in the coloration. It may be necessary to experiment with various species of wood samples in order to find the red hue you seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower travel speed of the laser along with appropriate power settings for the desired depth of engraving will provide more sappy burns. Reducing the nozzle air flow with an add-on valve will increase the sap deposited. If you reduce nozzle air flow, do not reduce it to the point where the vapors will travel into the nozzle and fog the lens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T21:13:24.703" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T21:13:24.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5490" CreationDate="2018-09-28T00:06:17.020" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ozark Trail has a set of camping utensils. Now my question is how might it be duplicated in wood by a wittler? If your not sure what I’m talking about check out the name @ Amazon.com&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yq4uo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yq4uo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;www.amazon.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Here’s a better picture as the actual items came&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrNbN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZrNbN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastEditorUserId="6118" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T21:39:50.257" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T21:39:50.257" Title="Wooden camping utensils?" Tags="|woodworking|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5487" CreationDate="2018-09-28T04:05:30.533" Score="3" ViewCount="1338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a big scissor but cutting very thick cardboards like  tv case  in different shapes like butterfly wings consume too much effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of tool will make my life easy w.r.t very thick cardboards? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T14:13:33.673" Title="Which tool is most suitable for cutting thick cardboard with ease?" Tags="|cardboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5485" CreationDate="2018-09-28T07:20:57.687" Score="2" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/5483/which-tool-is-most-suitable-for-cutting-thick-cardboard-with-ease#comment6242_5483&quot;&gt;Which tool is most suitable for cutting thick cardboard with ease?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The tool you are looking for is called a box cutter which is just a razor blade in a handle. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Make sure to put something uncuttable under the cardboard before slicing it with the blade or you will ruin your work surface, tabletop or floors&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tool is available for keeping under the cardboards by which we can prevent the damage to box cutter and the table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T08:31:15.070" Title="What tool is available for protecting the box cutter and the surface of the table while using box cutter?" Tags="|tool-selection|cardboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5484" CreationDate="2018-09-28T08:31:15.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/craft-essentials/craft-tools/cutting-mats&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cutting mats&lt;/a&gt; are avilable in a wide range of sizes.  I have A4 and A5, but even A1 (59.4 x 84.1 cm or 23.3 x 33.1 inches) aren't expensive at around £/$/€20. They provide a reasonably non-slip surface (Link is to a UK shop, just happens to have a range on one page).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want even bigger, a layer or two of vinyl flooring can work in the short term, but you will get through that with a craft knife eventually, so its best mounted on scrapwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another large, cheap option is hardboard (masonite), but it will blunt the blade faster than a proper cutting mat.  MDF is worse still, but either of these can be useful if you have a few very long cuts to make. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T08:31:15.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5475" CreationDate="2018-09-28T08:45:22.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For delicate work in soft materials, I still like to use my old &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill#Hand-powered&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wheel brace&lt;/a&gt; (hand drill).  I've used it on plastics, wood and aluminium when I don't want to risk marring the surface as I break through.  Securing the workpiece is an absolute requirement as it's a two-handed tool.  I'd start with a 2 mm drill bit, then use a 4–4.5 mm bit so you've got the minimum at the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could then square off the corners with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File_(tool)#Needle_files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;needle file&lt;/a&gt;.  My square needle file is about 2–3 mm at the widest point. This will give you much squarer corners than any rotary tool can provide.  Even if you start with the dremel, you may need to finish off with a needle file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2021-09-28T15:29:46.610" LastActivityDate="2021-09-28T15:29:46.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5483" CreationDate="2018-09-28T10:21:05.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preferred tool for heavy card is the classic &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-99E-Retractable-Blade-Knife/dp/9820372690&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stanley 99&lt;/a&gt; knife.  The blade is slightly stiffer than those of the snap-off craft knives, and the metal handle is good and solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go for a snap-off knife, for heavy card stick to one that takes 18&amp;nbsp;mm or even the rare 25&amp;nbsp;mm blades, rather than 9&amp;nbsp;mm blades, which are too flexible (but great for finer work on thin card).  The cheapest of these 18&amp;nbsp;mm and 9&amp;nbsp;mm knives are rather flimsy and don't latch very well, so it's worth buying a good one (probably sold singly rather than in a big pack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should buy plenty of blades, as card can blunt them fairly quickly and a blunt blade tears the workpiece more easily than a new blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T10:21:05.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-28T13:17:18.607" Score="4" ViewCount="1224" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the question is in the title: I'm trying to find a kind of paper that I can slather in wet glue without it wrinkling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen this question - &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/17/how-can-paper-be-glued-to-cardboard-without-creating-wrinkles&quot;&gt;How can paper be glued to cardboard without creating wrinkles?&lt;/a&gt; - which suggests either giving the paper a coat of acrylic or using spray adhesive but neither is ideal for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to produce something at scale, so spraying individual sheets isn't a great option. And I need to paint the glue on, so spraying it is not an option. I'm currently using PVA but if there's an option for a wet but non-wrinkling glue, I'd accept that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming there isn't, is there a kind, weight or grade of paper that will take glue without distorting? High-quality paper is expensive, so I'd rather know up front what to go for rather than experimenting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3317" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T14:59:14.073" Title="Is there a grade or type of paper that will take glue without wrinkling?" Tags="|adhesives|paper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5483" CreationDate="2018-09-28T14:13:33.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since Chris has properly covered our misplaced-answers from the comments, I will offer some high end solutions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser cutters, industrial strength vinyl cutters and picture-framing mat-cutters are all good options for working with heavy cardboard.  Scroll saws and Band saws can also work.  See if you have a makerspace or fablab in your area where tools like these are usually available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T14:13:33.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5482" CreationDate="2018-09-28T16:40:21.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wittling a spoon or butter knife is not that difficult, but a 5 prong fork might be a challenge.  A two or three prong design would probably be easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &quot;duplicating&quot; the particular style and design of the Ozark Trail products, that would depend on the skill of the wittler.  The products that I have seen are plastic and factory smooth.  Personally, if I went to the trouble of hand crafting a set of cutlery, I would want it to look a little rough as that adds a little character to the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T16:40:21.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-09-29T11:11:52.110" Score="7" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I use either artists masking fluid or shop bought masking tape it aaallllways pulls the paper apart. How do I stop that happening or what can I use instead?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MjdHg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6156" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T13:35:06.583" Title="What's the best way to preserve white areas in watercolour?" Tags="|watercolor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5493" CreationDate="2018-09-29T12:13:27.317" Score="5" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a parallelogram shaped chunk of foam, the kind of foam you find in headphone ear pads. Let's say it's 50mm long on both sides and 5mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to cut 5mm long, 2mm diameter cylinders out of this parallelogram chunk? I need to do it with reasonable precision. I have no special tools but can buy something indicated for this task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of would be something like a fruit corer but on a much smaller scale...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sdUQX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sdUQX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fruit corer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I dont know if any such thing exists, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6157" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T19:07:12.237" Title="How to cut a small cylinder out of a chunk of foam with some precision" Tags="|tool-selection|cutting|technique-identification|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5492" CreationDate="2018-09-29T12:42:19.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to use one of the leather hole punchers in the right size. They come in different shapes, for your use I would look for the straight version. Like in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://cs.wikipedia.org/wiki/V%C3%BDse%C4%8Dn%C3%ADk#/media/File:Prubojnik.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Henkellocheisen.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wider version&lt;/a&gt;, which can work well.&#xA;And if your hole is small enough and near enough the side of the foam, a pliers like tool (as in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather_punch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture on this page&lt;/a&gt;) may work. The page describes the other shapes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cork_borer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;something called a cork borer&lt;/a&gt;, which I have never seen in real life, which looks like it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those of the tools that do not have a base to them works best when you put a layer under your work, I learned that the end-grain of wood work well but a modern cutting mat may do as well, certainly when you only use hand power and not a hammer to push it through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-09-29T19:07:12.237" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T19:07:12.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3073" CreationDate="2018-09-29T18:48:17.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider them options.&#xA;If you like them, leave them ( or part of them) &amp;amp;, if not, moisten brush &amp;amp; buff them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6158" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T18:48:17.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4149" CreationDate="2018-09-29T18:57:11.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you're seeking something you'll have more control painting on. Try Arches 140LB hotpress ..tape it to masonite with moistened gummed paper tape. Don't let the water from the wet tape get on your paper though because it'll dry clear but repel pigment so, before sticking tape to the paper-edges on the board, shake the excess water off the tape AWAY from your piece of paper THEN adhere it. Smooth the tape flat with your hands, being careful to not swoop any water ONTO your paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let it dry &amp;amp;, when it is &amp;amp; the paper's taut, commence painting.&#xA;Tip. Draw VERY lightly your plan on the paper beforehand. That way, after painting, (&amp;amp; all paint is dry) you can erase the lines with a white or gum/kneadable eraser. Never erase on damp paper. It'll eat into the sizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6158" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2019-01-25T02:09:28.417" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T02:09:28.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3069" CreationDate="2018-09-29T19:24:12.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray down the back of the paper with clean water.&#xA;Flip and tape right side up using 1 1/2&quot; glued paper-tape on a bigger piece of masonite board. Weigh sides of the taped paper down with books or video tapes ...anything flat with weight ... along the edges to ensure edges stay put. Don't get whatever you're weighing it down with ON the finished painting. Nust on the brown paper tape. By the way, you can buy that tape at art store, on Amazon or at the Post Office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, tape the paper down before painting. No need to pre-moisten the paper. Tape it down dry using moistened paper tape that is at least a couple inches on each end longer than sides of paper so it has a really good grip on the masonite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always shake the moistened tape off real quick AWAY from the sheet if paper before approaching it to tape down because you want to avoid getting the excess watery glue that was on the tape on your painting surface because ...it will dry clear and it is gonna repel your pigment when the pigment dries &amp;amp; you'll see 'mysterious' lightning shaped white marks or splotches where the dried cleat tape's glue splashed on your painting surface...so shake the excess water off the tape AWAY from your paper. I don't 'dip' the tape ... I swipe it really fast under hot running water outta the faucet in the kitchen sink, outstretch my arm AWAY from my masonite board that has my awaiting paper on it and give that tape a good shake...THEN, I tape it down on the edge, avoiding passing the tape over the paper...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approach it from the SIDE. Do this on all 4 sides. Overlap at least 1/2 an inch onto paper edge when taping paper onto masonite board.&#xA;Do it right the 1st time so tape it straight as you can.&#xA;Tape the top, then 1 side, then the bottom, then the other side...not opposing sides 1st.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ensures a tight stretch.&#xA;Only use the really WIDE papertape. 1 1/2&quot; roll of papertape. Buy at post office if you can't find elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When completely dry, then do your painting.&#xA;When finished, cut just onto where you see the paper under that tape...cut through tape into the paper with a box cutter on all edges &amp;amp; press hard enough. Careful you don't cut your painting image.&#xA;Carefully lift it off the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the tape remains, you can just leave that because the matte is going to cover it anyways when you or your client goes to frame it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZ24V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my Matthew Bellamy montage work-in-progress&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6158" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2019-01-25T02:09:41.150" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T02:09:41.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5499" CreationDate="2018-09-30T03:48:42.113" Score="4" ViewCount="1620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most 3D printing technologies create a rough surface. It cannot even be polished without leaving porosities. This is anti-hygienic. The surface has then to be coated with silicone or epoxy gel. The difficulty is to find a reliable inner skin contact safe coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stereolitography create a way softer surface. However I find the materials to be too fragile for a sextoy use. Another point is that I'm not sure that it is safe for inner skin contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that CLIP can use PU. This is a more reliable material. I'm quite insure about the inner skin contact part too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can make silicone molds. This seems to be quite safe but also quite time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can you say about it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6131" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2018-10-05T18:41:33.163" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T18:41:33.163" Title="What is the best technology to 3D print sextoys?" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5500" CreationDate="2018-09-30T13:58:59.670" Score="4" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this amazing piece of art and was curious as how I could make something similar using stuff I could find in nature like ferns, bark or large leafs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qWo0m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qWo0m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://naturalcuriosities.com/bird-of-paradise-ready-to-ship-16153.html&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would the process be?&#xA;How would you stop the leaf from further decomposition?&#xA;And is it just dipped in gold paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://naturalcuriosities.com/bird-of-paradise-ready-to-ship-16153.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://naturalcuriosities.com/bird-of-paradise-ready-to-ship-16153.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6162" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T09:04:38.567" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T13:40:35.230" Title="Process behind golden palm leaf" Tags="|gold-leaf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5497" CreationDate="2018-10-01T09:22:57.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work for a company that &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; make sex toys, but we do make silicone products with electronics inside, so I've seen lots of the same issues you're facing here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way we do it is to 3D print a mould for the object using an SLA printer (in our case a &lt;a href=&quot;https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Form 2&lt;/a&gt;) - as you note, this material is rather brittle so doesn't work as the internal structure, but it's OK for a mould as it can be made as thick as required for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We then 3D print the internals using an FDM printer in PLA or ABS (we use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atom3dp.com/en/atom2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Atom 2&lt;/a&gt;) and then cast the silicone around this using the SLA-printed mould. This is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; stronger and you really have to work to destroy even the fairly delicate electronics once they're encased in silicone. As for contact with the skin, I've not &lt;em&gt;checked&lt;/em&gt; the properties of any of these materials for safety in the body, but I would suggest that there's a reason people make sex toys in silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your concerns about time, yes this is time consuming for the first one you make, but if you're making more than a couple the time saved by not having to print the entire object each time will more than outweigh the time spend moulding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T09:22:57.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5498" CreationDate="2018-10-01T13:40:35.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the absence of visible leaf structure, I would guess that this is just artfully laid out gold colored tissue on canvas.  There is an inherent pun in the work because that gold tissue is usually referred to as &quot;gold leaf&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for making similar work from actual plant life, you might it easier to build a one-sided, open silicone mold around a plant leaf, then cast them in a mixture of clear resin and gold-colored pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T13:40:35.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-03T08:29:06.333" Score="5" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a card box in which I have a card with repositionable glue on it - however the card gets stuck inside of the box, and is then fairly difficult to get out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered if anyone knew if there was anything I could coat the inside of the box with to prevent the card from sticking inside of it - preferably something long lasting. I've tried a silicone spray, but that didn't do the trick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1238" LastActivityDate="2018-10-06T13:47:20.077" Title="Prevent repositional glue from sticking?" Tags="|cardboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5491" CreationDate="2018-10-03T13:15:47.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winsor &amp;amp; Newton® Watercolor Medium, Permanent Masking Medium&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7QO5C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6172" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T13:15:47.357" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-03T13:19:16.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I complete a watercolor painting on paper, I seal it with 3-4 coats of Krylon GLOSS UV-Resistant Acrylic Coating. I don't like the finish of the MATTE coating (plus, it dulls metallics). I use light coats and let each dry at least 30 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6172" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T13:19:16.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1777" CreationDate="2018-10-03T13:23:34.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no need to frame an oil painting under glass if it's painted on canvas, panel, or board. Glass is used in framing to protect the artwork from moisture and harmful UV rays which can fade the colors. ... If your painting was done on paper or thin card, adding glass to the frame will protect the support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6172" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T13:23:34.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5491" CreationDate="2018-10-05T08:32:48.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;7 tips for working with masking fluid, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artistsandillustrators.co.uk/how-to/Acrylic/243/9-tips-for-working-with-masking-fluid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Artists &amp;amp; Illustrators&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a great deal of water, sometimes pouring colour onto the paper from a small jar and then responding to its progress with further washes as it begins to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally apply masking fluid to protect small, relatively complex shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Masking fluid is often a difficult medium. sometimes to the extent that artists give up on it. However by following these tips  the ‘difficulties’ can quite easily be overcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plan thoroughly. To get the most out of masking fluid, it should be considered very carefully at the planning stage of a painting. In most cases it is applied before any paint comes into contact with the paper.&#xA;The marks made and therefore consequently left by the masking fluid on its removal have to be carefully appraised. It might help to think of it not as masking fluid but as ‘white paint’. I considered the placement of paint but has taken a less than considered approach to the application of the masking fluid. A badly planned and poorly applied area of masking fluid can have as damaging effect to a painting as a poorly painted passage and can leave the painting in ruins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dilute to taste. Through experience, I have learnt that sometimes masking fluid can be too thick if used straight from the bottle. I often water it down to aid the flow of the masking fluid onto the paper, which is useful for creating finer lines or more finely spattered .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test the masking fluid on some sample scraps of your intended watercolour paper. If the paper used is a soft paper, the masking fluid might pull at the paper when it is removed. It might be advantageous to dilute the masking fluid with water, as this would exert less of a pull on the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handle with care. Never shake the bottle up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't work wet. Make certain that the paper is thoroughly dry before applying the masking fluid, otherwise you run the risk of the masking fluid penetrating the top layer of the paper. This could result in the paper being torn when the masking fluid is removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always leave the masking fluid to dry fully before over-painting too. To check this, carefully touch the masking fluid with your finger tip. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove it carefully. Some artists use a soft rubber to remove the masking fluid from the paper. I remove it by gently rubbing with my fingertips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6172" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T13:35:06.583" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T13:35:06.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5502" CreationDate="2018-10-05T08:43:17.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that might work to reduce but not prevent sticking is sticker backing paper (waxed/plasticised). Unfortunately it's rather obvious, and not easy to attach because it's designed not to stick to glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another hard to attach (I suggest staples) material is reusable non-stick cooking liner.  It's normally &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Reusable-Non-Stick-Cooking-Liner/dp/B00I4S4WT0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brown&lt;/a&gt; similar to much packaging cardboard, but can sometimes be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Reusable-Teflon-Cooking-stick-guarantee/dp/B001TKYTMA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;black&lt;/a&gt;.  This again won't completely prevent sticking, but will make removal much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These won't damage the sticky layer on the card, while one thing that probably would is wiping a very thin layer of oil/cooking spray/silicone furniture polish over spray lacquer.  This approach has the advantage of being applied like a coating, but could end up messy as well as spoiling the glue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T08:43:17.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5502" CreationDate="2018-10-06T13:47:20.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, making cardboard release is tricky. The only thing I can think of that will work well is sticker-paper backing. Buy some letter-size sticker sheets for inkjet printers. Remove the sticker,  cut the sticker backing to fit inside your box, glue the paper-side to the cardboard and then press your homemade sticker to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-10-06T13:47:20.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3995" CreationDate="2018-10-07T16:07:51.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some craft shops sell the hoops and the special lamp fittings 'hoop with fitting holder' in a wide range of sizes and shapes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I got them from a small independent craft shop where I live ( the Netherlands) but I am pretty sure you can buy them online now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make fabric covered shades you either need the fitting ring, an extra hoop and sturdy (plastic?) material to connect them or a frame which connects the fitting ring to the outer ring or to a series of rings, depending on the size and shapes you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with a frame you will likely want lining or a plastic or board layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also solder or weld your frames from metal rings or rods as available in shops near you or online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not needed to use just one kind and thickness of metal, you can mix pre-made parts with easier to bend metal to work up the shape you want.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To connect you can sometimes wrap rather than solder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T10:24:02.277" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T10:24:02.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5524" CreationDate="2018-10-07T17:23:20.277" Score="3" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am diving in abstract painting but my acrylic colors are not alive.&#xA;My reds are sleeping, my blue and green vivacity are even worse. The only one that do it are my black and white. Mmm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I should learn to make my own colors and master their punchiness (very saturated and opaque/thick), but I would prefer to have a consistent technique/material I could add, or better, a brand that creates live/punchy colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what I do, my mixes are tern and really not interesting (just talking about colors themselves here, not the composition, which is another subject).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6189" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:12:08.317" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:12:08.317" Title="How do I get a punchy acrylic paint colour?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5512" CreationDate="2018-10-08T04:33:13.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add a couple of drops of floor finish, like Quick-Shine (available at Walmart, other stores and Amazon) to an ounce or two of your acrylic paint.  It adds a glossy luster to the paint which might give you the effect you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To go in the other direction, use a drop of rubbing alcohol which will flatten out the paint, making it look aged and faded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T04:33:13.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-08T07:07:45.247" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to color my old shoes but I'm not sure what type of color will be long lasting, so the color won't be washed away when it rains or when I wash them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6190" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:07:40.583" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:07:40.583" Title="What type of color should I use to color my shoes?" Tags="|painting|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-08-05T08:52:31.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5514" CreationDate="2018-10-08T07:59:10.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.timpson.co.uk/shoe-care/shoe-dye.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shoe dye&lt;/a&gt; exists, in versions for leather and suede.  They should work reasonably well on natural fibres but the effect on synthetic fibres is less reliable (try applying, leaving to dry, then rinsing well).  Any plastic (e.g. vinyl) bits won't take dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall it's crucial to know what your shoes are made of before you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T07:59:10.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-08T16:04:29.607" Score="4" ViewCount="1873" Body="&lt;p&gt;What product would be best to use for attaching it to my face? I do not want it to be ruined, as I worked really hard on it and it took me about 2 days to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clay is by Crayola and is somewhat soft (?) when dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6196" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-09-04T10:39:58.760" LastActivityDate="2023-09-13T15:59:17.390" Title="I made a facial prosthetic out of air-dry clay, how would I attach it?" Tags="|adhesives|technique-selection|clay|props|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5512" CreationDate="2018-10-08T19:43:20.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Henry is close, but the problem is that your acrylic is drying Matte. This is also, by the way, a problem with many different kinds of paint, whether they are spray paint, oil paint or acrylic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add glossy mediums to the paint, but I have found that painting a varnish (or firnis) on top generally yields more even results. I prefer sennelier gloss UV-protecting acrylic finish, which you can buy at pretty much any art supply store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to use is not any kind of spray, you want a thick, viscous medium. NEVER thin it with water, work from the center outwards and use a very soft wide brush. Don’t rework the gloss after you have spread it out, and be careful that your brush doesn’t lose any hairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T22:07:13.877" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T22:07:13.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5517" CreationDate="2018-10-10T01:04:44.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That material is not likely to survive very long. Normally you would make the piece out of latex or silicone, because those materials are resilient. However, I can recommend that you use rubber cement. It is generally (unless you are allergic, which you can test by putting a small dab on your skin, if it itches or get red, wash it off immediately with warm soapy water). Assuming you are not allergic, now try to attach another sample as a test to your face. Figure out how much glue and how strong the clay is. Do this by applying the cement to the back of the clay and immediately attach it to your face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it works, then do it with the final piece. Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T01:04:44.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5517" CreationDate="2018-10-10T02:38:41.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spirit gum is the classic adhesive for makeup work.  This time of year you can get it wherever Halloween costumes are sold.  The rest of the time, amazon probably carries it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for improving your creation's durability, I would suggest painting it with several layers of skin-friendly non-oil-based makeup paint.  Allow this paint to thoroughly dry before attempting to glue it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T02:38:41.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5398" CreationDate="2018-10-10T07:45:35.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.popularmechanics.com/culture/movies/a6182/diy-halloween-tips-let-me-in/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article from Popular Mechanics&lt;/a&gt; suggests using corn syrup thickened with flour. I found it while looking for a recipe to make spirit gum, which should be possible using rubbing alcohol and rosin (the latter is available from music shops as violinists use it). But I failed to find the proportions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bustle.com/articles/184343-9-products-to-use-instead-of-sfx-makeup-for-last-minute-halloween-looks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Other sources&lt;/a&gt; suggest an adhesive intended for false lashes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2018-10-10T08:02:17.643" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T08:02:17.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5398" CreationDate="2018-10-10T11:50:21.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its been a while and I found my own answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to spirit gum I've found that name brand &lt;strong&gt;Eyelash Glue&lt;/strong&gt; (glue intended for use attaching fake eyelashes) works as an alternative, though the cheap stuff does not. The cheaper Eyelash Glues does't hold up well and the prosthetic is easily pulled off with the most minimal of force, making it a bad choice if one intends on wearing the prosthetic anywhere that there is a chance it will be brushing up against anything (like walls, tree branches, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best alternative I've found is &lt;strong&gt;Nail Glue&lt;/strong&gt; (Glue intended for attaching fake nails). The nail glue is relatively cheap. It holds as well as spirit gum but it is also just as easy to remove the prosthetic once you're done as it is when using spirit gum. It does not appear to have damaged the prosthetic either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Eyelash Glue and Nail Glue are readily available where ever make up is sold, including Walmart, Target, CVS and Walgreens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6012" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T11:50:21.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-11T03:15:10.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tips from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artistsandillustrators.co.uk/how-to/Watercolour/266/how-to-preserve-your-watercolours&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Artists &amp;amp; Illustrators&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before storing your work, take the time to ensure it is as you want to find it. Remove any unwanted pencil lines, or carefully dampen a piece of kitchen towel to lift off fingerprints. Put a date on the back if you haven’t already and place it in layers of acid-free tissue paper.&#xA;  When it comes to looking after and even framing your paintings, it is worth remembering that paper is a fragile, sensitive material. Always store your work horizontal and fl at; a plan chest is clearly ideal. Nothing detracts from a painting more than tatty edges and bashed corners. Never store watercolours in plastic sleeves, such as the ones sold as portfolio pages, as this will ruin the paint surface.&#xA;  As for framing your work, there are obviously lots of personal choices you can make with regards to the frame, mount colour and so on, but let me end with my three golden rules in the column opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 Golden Rules for Preserving Watercolours&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Keep a gap between the glass and artwork&#xA;  A window mount that conceals the very edges of your work will do this, by the minimum 2mm. If you are planning to just attach your painting to the frame’s backing board, you will need small wooden fillets to create this minimum breathing space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Avoid masking tape or sellotape&#xA;  It will rapidly stain the paper and cause irreparable damage. Any good art shop will stock PH-neutral, waterbased adhesive and archival tape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Choose where you hang your work carefully&#xA;  Avoid areas of humidity (such as bathrooms and kitchens) and places that will experience extremes of hot and cold, such as just above radiators, or on the inside of exterior walls. Watercolours will fade if hung in direct sunlight too. Modern pigments are far less fugitive nowadays, but careful hanging is still vital to their longevity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6172" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T14:08:46.100" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T14:08:46.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5512" CreationDate="2018-10-11T03:34:00.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/scienceofcolour/how-to-make-colours-look-even-brighter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Science of Colour&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Take any colour and place it alongside another colour and it will be given certain characteristics. Red will appear more dazzling if placed alongside any colour within the opposing segment on the colour wheel – in this case, blue, green or violet. Similarly, place this colour against one with a contrasting tone and the appearance of red will appear brighter. As can be seen in the diagram, red against black appears bright as the black provide tonal contrast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place red against a similar colour, such as orange and this dazzling effect is subdued. This is because red and orange are harmonious colours. In other words, they are placed on neighbouring segments of the colour wheel. Red against grey appears dazzling, but not to the degree as red against black, as the two is similar in tone. Notice also that the red appears darker against the grey than against black.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creating Vibrant Colours in Painting&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  This principle can be practiced with other colours. Green can be made more dazzling by placing it against red or any colour containing red, such as orange, maroon, pink or crimson. Green will not appear so dazzling against blue or turquoise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When it comes to painting subject matter, placing contrasting colours against one another will create focal points if the rest of the painting contains subdued or harmonious hues. This can be seen in my painting of the leopard. As can be seen, the blue spots appear to shimmer against the red. Because the two colours are similar in tone, they appear to oscillate against one another.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Monet’s sunset works on the same principle, where subdued colours are used for the rest of the sky, but bright colours used for the sun itself. If this bright colour mixture was taken out of context and placed on a white background, the colour would not appear so bright. The same trick can be used for painting lightning, aurora borealis or a moonlit scene. The more extreme the contrast, the more brilliant or dazzling the colours will appear to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bright Colors not Garish Colors&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Monet’s sunset works on the same principle, where subdued colours are used for the rest of the sky, but bright colours used for the sun itself. If this bright colour mixture was taken out of context and placed on a white background, the colour would not appear so bright. The same trick can be used for painting lightning, aurora borealis or a moonlit scene. The more extreme the contrast, the more brilliant or dazzling the colors will appear to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bright Colors not Garish Colors&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  It is good practice to work on a toned ground in order to obtain a more accurate portrayal of colour’s tone and hue. Working on a white art surface will make any colour appear darker than it actually is. For this reason, I will apply a thin layer of an earth colour onto the art surface first (this might be burnt sienna or burnt umber). This underpaint, also known as an imprimatura, can also be grey, brown or neutral.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, you can experiment with different colored imprimaturas, which will provide contrast and shimmering effects to a painting. A painting featuring a multitude, of greens, for instance, a forest scene, will appear dazzling if placed upon a red imprimatura.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Manipulating Colors in Painting&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Some knowledge of which colors are complementary (opposite) and which are harmonious (similar) in painting will help create dazzling effects in paint. As can be seen, placing red against blue or any similar cool color will make both colors appear more brighter than if the two colors are similar in hue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6172" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T14:07:39.270" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T14:07:39.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5526" CreationDate="2018-10-11T19:02:15.037" Score="5" ViewCount="1333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Together with my fiancée, we bought a globe very similar to the one below (same brand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGPDY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGPDY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we want to cut a clean, rectangular hole (roughly 8 cm x 1-2 cm) in it in order to put envelopes in it but, of course, we don't want to break it. The plastic is ~ 1-2 mm thick. What is the best way to achieve our goal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The globe is rather frail and we fear that putting to much pressure on it with a cutter will break it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this possible without breaking the globe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what we've thought about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start by burning a small hole, then expand it using heat, then when the hole is big enough to hold a cutter blade, switch to the cutter to make hole the size we want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a cutter, but starting very superficially and going over and over again until the whole plastic layer is cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are very likely other ways so what is the best way to cut this globe without breaking it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6204" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T20:42:27.453" Title="How to cut a hole in a globe without breaking it?" Tags="|plastic|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5525" CreationDate="2018-10-11T21:16:34.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you might be close to a solution by using heat, but consider to combine a source of heat with a cutter blade. This will allow you to use the tip of the blade to have a minimal impact on the surface, while providing the means to puncture the surface. You may find that you can re-heat the blade for each cut and use this method for the entire opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea of repeat cuts is also good if you combine it with heat. This will minimize the damage to the surrounding area, while &quot;gently&quot; imposing the blade into the plastic surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size you reference should be small enough to allow the rest of the sphere to maintain its shape. If an edge of the cut is snagged by an envelope, it may buckle inside, but the overall small size should allow it to pop back out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Henry Taylor's implied permission and recommendation, I am incorporating some of his support material below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Manually heating the blade is absolutely an option, but there is also&#xA;  a specialty tool called a &quot;hot knife&quot; which is just a soldering-iron&#xA;  with an xacto-blade as the tip. I find that using a hot knife to&#xA;  &quot;scratch&quot; at sheet plastic slowly with very low pressure and going&#xA;  over the line a dozen or more times usually provides the best results.&#xA;  Practice on less precious objects of similar material before hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As for cutting the straight lines of a rectangular opening, set up a&#xA;  guide for your blade using layers of blue painters tape carefully&#xA;  applied around the outer edge of your cutting lines. Slide the blade&#xA;  along the tape wall with the tip resting against plastic at the cut&#xA;  point. Then once your hole is done, wet the tape to loosen its glue&#xA;  and peal off VERY CAREFULLY starting at the edge of the tape furthest&#xA;  from the hole with force perpendicular to the cut. Remember that you&#xA;  have seriously compromised the plastic's integrity by cutting it, so&#xA;  treat it like an empty egg shell... delicately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2018-10-14T01:11:16.537" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T01:11:16.537" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-12T12:11:00.903" Score="2" ViewCount="6500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a mold, so that when I want to make for example, planet Earth in plastic in 3D, then I can pour the molten plastic into mold. So that I can give a form. Not only this, but… when I buy Pepsi, or something with hard plastic, I can use that hard plastic to melt it and then create something with it. I want to be creative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do I need to make a mold so that I can pour any molten plastic in it? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is even possible to make a mold so that you can pour in it any molten plastic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible to make the mold in the you want? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CLARIFICATION&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I’m trying to tell is, that I have found out that you can melt at home any plastic, and then you only need is a mold so that you can give a form to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing is that I don’t know what type of material I need to use so that I can create a special mold for this. From clay I can create mold so that I can pour a molten plastic? Don’t know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; I have put “material/s” because, I’m don’t know what kind of materials I need so that I can put with plural or singular. Got me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6207" LastEditorUserId="6207" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T14:12:00.983" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T23:30:35.627" Title="From what material/s I need to create a mold so that I can pour in it safely any kind of molten plastic?" Tags="|fabric|plastic|mold-making|tool-fabrication|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2018-10-13T03:44:09.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Injection molding can in fact be done at home. But judging from the OP this method would be far and above beyond the scope of his current knowledge on these types of things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to cast plastic parts at home or in your workspace if that’s the case would be with the use of a commercially available product such as SmoothOn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple. Sold on amazon as well as most other online retailers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest doing at the very least some cursory research into the process’ used when casting/molding with SmoothOn products, as they offer a variety of materials such as polyurethanes, rubbers, silicones etc. &#xA;a quick google search will lead you in the right direction. YouTube aswell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just as a quick tip to lead you in the right direction, try finding some videos of sculptors and character designers using this stuff for they’re own casting/molding needs and you’ll have a good point of reference to start from. &#xA;Good luck :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6212" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T03:44:09.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5539" CreationDate="2018-10-14T22:18:04.383" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the genre is related to photo realism/hyper realism, It's photo realism/hyper realism, But I want to know what's the name of it with this tools!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They use graphite, They use brush and dark colors in it, They use different kind of black powders as color&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXDR0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AXDR0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6217" LastEditorUserId="6217" LastEditDate="2018-10-18T13:09:26.873" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T13:09:26.873" Title="What is the name of this painting genre?" Tags="|drawing|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5473" CreationDate="2018-10-15T14:24:45.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Former goldsmith here. I used to work with gold, a lot, but not so much with steel, and I never did damascus or mokume gane. From your question I'm guessing it may be the opposite for you ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before thinking about durability, I would question feasability. Due to their very different fusion temperatures, and different &quot;behavior&quot; when heated, &lt;strong&gt;these two metals may be difficult to mix together&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate this, you usually work gold while it's cold. If you try to hit or bend it while it's red, it will offer almost no resistance. Meanwhile, steel offers quite a good resistance even when it's red hot. How do you forge those two metals together in these conditions ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again I am no expert in forging, even less in damascus or mokume gane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only tell you the metals commonly used together are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;silver/gold/copper for mokume gane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steel/other steel for damascus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the durability, I think, if you manage somehow to make your ring, it would be quite a durable ring, because the steel would prevent rose gold (which is already one of the hardest of golds) to suffer too much from abrasion. &lt;strong&gt;The only concern that I see may be the need  to change the ring's size&lt;/strong&gt; (quite frequent after 10+ years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, &lt;strong&gt;such a ring should last for a lifetime&lt;/strong&gt; and more, assuming you treat it with care (=&gt; taking it off when doing something that could damage it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick note, just a basic reminder on how to keep your jewelry as long as possible :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't make any part of the ring thinier than 1.5mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wear it in bed. Bedsheet are quite abrasive over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wear it into the shower. Since I assume we're talking about stainless steel, this is not so much about durability than about the risk of loosing it into the siphon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6221" LastEditorUserId="6221" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T12:59:27.257" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T12:59:27.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5533" CreationDate="2018-10-15T15:24:39.937" Score="6" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working with 316L/A4 steel and I was wondering which precautions I should take when heating it. I want to heat bend a 316L steel rod, so it will need to be heated up to arround 1000°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;316 is a stainless steel alloy, which has the following composition (If I've understood correctly 316L should be the same but with lower carbon content):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;             Min. %     Max %&#xA;Carbon         0         0.08&#xA;Silicon        0         1.00&#xA;Manganese      0         2.00&#xA;Nickel       10.00      14.00&#xA;Chromium     16.00      18.00&#xA;Molybdenum    2.00       3.00&#xA;Nitrogen       0         0.10&#xA;Phosphorous    0        0.045&#xA;Sulphur        0         0.03&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.interlloy.com.au/our-products/stainless-steel/316-austenitic-stainless-steel-bar/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;interlloy.com.au&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm worried I will inhale something toxic since the alloy contains nickel and molybdenum. I think chromium shouldn't be much of a problem since any CrO3 compounds will decompose when heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6222" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T15:58:15.767" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T00:04:46.330" Title="What safety precautions should I take when working with 316L/A4 steel?" Tags="|metal|metalworking|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5532" CreationDate="2018-10-16T00:04:46.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Main precaution ; Do not touch it while it is hot. No vapors will come off the steel . What does A4 mean ? Your heating would be about right for forging. But for bending , try room temperature. It will bend very well unless you paid a premium for strain hardened bar. If you bend it extensively at room temperature it will harden. If you need to bend it more ,then heat it. 316 has no particular temperature requirements. A low red heat of about 1200 F should soften it ,cool in water.Then bend it at room temperature. You may repeat as often as needed. Bending at room temperature will be substantially more convenient than hot bending. Heating will discolor it from straw, to blue, to black depending on temperature and time. Color may be removed by sanding-polishing , if necessary. You are correct on one thing , today 316 is the same as 316 L ,the only difference is that you have to pay more if you order L grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T00:04:46.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5473" CreationDate="2018-10-16T11:26:30.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the example you link to isn't a true gold/steel laminate but rather a steel/steel laminate which has been heavily etched and then gold plated into the low areas of the relief. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that you could create a gold/steel laminate using the usual pattern welding technique. Forge welding and even forging temperatures are well in excess of the melting point of gold. There is also the issue that when you  try to forge it the gold is going to be forced outwards before the steel starts to move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are laminating methods for precious metals, often known by the Japanese term &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mokume-gane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mokume-gane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T11:26:30.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2018-10-16T11:35:07.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most plastics can;t be cast easily in this way as they don't have a distinct liquid phase and even when 'melted' have very high viscosity. Generally thermo-softening plastics are formed under considerable pressure eg by injection moulding, extrusion of blow-moulding, or are formed from softened sheets as in vacuum forming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to cast plastic parts the best solution is a resin. Typically made by mixing two liquid parts which have low enough viscosity to be poured into a mould and then set hard in the mould by a room temperature reaction between the constituent parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyester, Polyurethane and Epoxy are commonly used for small and medium scale casting. You can also add granular pr powder fillers to improve strength, simulate other materials etc etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hobby use PU resin provides a good mix of properties, it casts well has reasonable strength and is fairly convenient and safe to handle with reasonable precautions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="253" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T11:35:07.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5811" CreationDate="2018-10-17T10:10:09.917" Score="3" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a hand sewing needle that has the same diameter and eye size as a #10 Quilting Betweens needle but that is much longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastEditorUserId="3111" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T16:33:57.910" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T19:01:35.400" Title="What hand sewing needles are best for beading?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5541" CreationDate="2018-10-17T16:43:37.010" Score="4" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;For building an outdoor public park sculpture (1.25 times life-sized, containing several figures) would it be better to build a metal frame, wrapped in mesh, covered in concrete;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, would it be better to make a model and create a mould and pour concrete into that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first option (hollow) or the second option (solid)? For a public park. Is there an obvious choice, or would each option have equal advantages and disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6227" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T23:53:31.807" Title="Building Outdoor Concrete Sculpture" Tags="|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5530" CreationDate="2018-10-17T20:23:35.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, this seems like it is charcoal pencil art.  Google that term and check out the Images it brings up.  They are very similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way this is created is the artist uses a charcoal pencil to draw on the paper, then smudges the charcoal into the picture they want to make.  The powder is actually the charcoal.  In this case, the light color comes from the paper the eye/face is drawn on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T20:23:35.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5525" CreationDate="2018-10-17T20:42:27.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Oscillating tool&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think using an oscillating tool would work really well for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not suggesting a brand, store, or anything, this is just a handy, random image from Google:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJNtv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CJNtv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow you to cut the rectangle in a relatively short time as well as avoid putting any real pressure on the globe.  You just have to follow the normal tool usage guideline of: let the tool do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a wide variety of cutting attachments for this, so you might find a blade that would work better than the one in this image.  As a bonus, these tools are really handy for a lot of different projects, so it's not just a &quot;one project&quot; tool.  You will find other uses for it, once you have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rotary tool&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try a rotary tool, like a Dremel tool with a cutting disk.  These disks can be fragile and hard to keep cutting in a straight line, so not my first choice for something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hot knife&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any tool when working with plastics, you want to avoid excessive heat.  The heat can warp or discolor the plastic, especially when it's thin plastic.  A globe like this is probably injection molded from a thermoplastic, which is usually very sensitive to heat.  This is why I would avoid using a &quot;hot knife&quot; method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you are using a retail version of a hot knife, they tend to cool down below the melting temperature of the material you're trying to cut quickly, so it's always a race to finish your cut before it cools down too far, and the knife is stuck in your piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, these tend to leave a lip of plastic around the edge of your cut, leaving you to trim it away when it's cool, as well as avoid while it's still hot.  Hot plastic and skin contact is very, very, extremely unpleasant most of the time, since they tend to stick to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T20:42:27.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5538" CreationDate="2018-10-17T23:53:31.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exposed to the public it will take a lot of abuse . So it needs to be as strong as possible. Use the hollow mold but put a steel rebar armature /core into it before you pour in the concrete. Use lots of rebar and lots of cement in the concrete. I have seen solid concrete benches destroyed in Cook Co IL and other places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T23:53:31.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-19T11:33:06.203" Score="1" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people use sandpaper to repair worn out sides of paperback books with great results. The problem I have with this is that the sides of the book puff up and I have a hard time fixing that (using brushes, finest grade sandpaper and weights). Keeping the pages together as tight as possible while sanding makes it better, but still doesn't solve the problem. Is there a way to sand a book down without the sides puffing up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6232" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T10:27:42.430" Title="How to repair (sand down) the sides of a paperback book properly?" Tags="|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5544" CreationDate="2018-10-19T15:07:02.400" Score="6" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has a lot of her jewellery in various small boxes, bags, etc, which makes it hard for her to find a particular item she wants to wear. I'd like to make her a nice box to keep it all organised, as a surprise present for her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an engineer, I'm happy with how to make a box - what I'm not so sure of is how to line the compartments in order to protect the jewellery properly - a lot of it is hand-made and non-metallic, so isn't as strong or resilient as mass-produced silver or gold would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What materials could I use for this? I can't ask her as I want it to be a surprise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6234" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T08:47:58.250" Title="Making a jewellery box - protection and lining" Tags="|material-selection|jewelry|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5543" CreationDate="2018-10-19T19:14:31.500" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The normal way to do this is to use something soft inside the box to provide impact protection (usually foam), and then a layer of something over the foam to provide a more durable, scratch free and better looking surface (usually velvet). Velvet is also popular because it is less slippery than other options, so pieces don't slide around inside the box as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the foam is skipped - velvet provides some impact protection because of its depth, so especially if it's not something that's expected to be moved then you can get away without the foam - but if you're concerned about the durability of the pieces then extra padding is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-10-21T08:47:58.250" LastActivityDate="2018-10-21T08:47:58.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-20T15:11:55.727" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently painted an electronic device with spray paint. I want to remove the smell. I cannot soak/wet my electronic device. Using liquid type solution may short-circuit my electronic device.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I remove the spray paint smell from my electronic device?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6236" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T18:53:21.490" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:53:21.490" Title="How to remove spray paint smell from electronic device?" Tags="|paint|electronics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-10-20T18:17:50.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5542" CreationDate="2018-10-21T08:24:56.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When working on the cut edges of a book you need to clamp the pages of the book closed between boards. Making a 'board book board' sandwich.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ideally the boards are as big as the pages of the book and you can clamp them just around the book with separate &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clamp_(tool)#/media/File:Clamps.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clamps.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Which in turn you can clamp down in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vise&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vice&lt;/a&gt;, to hold it for you working on it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is also possible to skip the clamps and position the book in its boards in a vice but it is harder to position them right in that way. Even when for working you should not have clamps, it is often good to clamp the work before placing it in the vice and take the clamp off when it is safely in the vice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your boards are bigger or smaller than the front and back of your book, you can still use them but you have to be careful to position them such that the edge of the book you want to work on is. supported and not work on any part which is not supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to take a bit off the book, you can have the book stick out of the boards a little, but often it is easier to take a bit of the board along with the bit you want to take off the pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the pages are clamped in like this, they should not be able to puff up, but you should still work in such a way the paper of the book can not get wet at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If with this way of working you still have problems with 'puffing' please add photos and a good description of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book binders I have seen working all used a knife to cut the pages to size, with the books clamped in between boards, not using sand paper, but they do take off more than you seem to want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T10:27:42.430" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T10:27:42.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5550" CreationDate="2018-10-22T04:37:34.987" Score="5" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a building site is being demolished and I want to reuse the concrete to make a large sculpture (pour into a mold), must the concrete be fully recycled or is there an easier method to reuse it (such as smashing it down myself and mixing it with cement)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6227" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T09:00:39.963" Title="Recycling Concrete" Tags="|material-selection|sculpting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5549" CreationDate="2018-10-22T10:55:30.483" Score="5" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm embarking on my first leatherwork project, a laptop sleeve. I read a few guides online and feeling inspired bought a piece of leather - second hand - off a certain online auction site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On opening the leather at first I was very pleased with the colour, it was described in the listing as &quot;saddle tan, veg tan&quot;. However after making some test cuts to get a feel for it I've noticed that the dark brown colour of the leather is really only on the very top surface, the underside looks like the original lighter colour, as does the cross section of the cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgOuK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgOuK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;saddle tan veg tan&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the way it should look? On all of the guides I've been reading online the leather appears to be a more consistent colour. My fear is that it has not been tanned correctly and the colour will rub off rather quickly. If this is the case, are there steps I can take to prevent this happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6239" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T13:14:00.840" Title="Is this leather veg tanned?" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2018-10-22T13:14:00.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me like you're conflating the &lt;em&gt;tanning&lt;/em&gt; with the &lt;em&gt;dyeing&lt;/em&gt; processes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tanning vs Dyeing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tanning&lt;/strong&gt; is how you turn a piece of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rawhide_(material)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rawhide&lt;/a&gt; into leather - it does change the colour, but that's not the main purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dyeing&lt;/strong&gt; is how you change the colour of an already tanned piece of leather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Telling Veg-tanned and Chrome-tanned leather apart&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main ways to check if a piece of leather is chrome or veg tanned. The first is stiffness - veg tanned leather is normally quite stiff, and can be impressed when dampened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is colour; undyed veg-tanned leather is a salmon-pink fleshy colour (like you have), whereas undyed chrome tanned leather is normally blueish-grey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Your leather&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your picture, it looks to me like a piece of veg-tanned leather that's been &lt;em&gt;surface&lt;/em&gt; dyed rather than &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; dyed - the dye has been applied to the surface and hasn't had a chance to soak right the way through. This is quite normal for pieces of leather that were bought undyed and dyed at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have other reasons to be concerned, I'd say that the tanning is perfectly fine and you have nothing to be worried about there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the dye will fade and rub off more quickly than if it were through-dyed, but you can always apply more dye if you need to. Applying some sort of leather finish such as dubbin should slow the fading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T13:14:00.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5547" CreationDate="2018-10-22T22:24:59.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Concrete is a hard substance created from the chemical reactions of the various components mixed during the build, including water. Once cured, smashing the material into any level of coarseness or fineness will not undo the chemical reactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary purpose of using recycled concrete debris is usually as filler, to reduce the volume of pour in a construction. I used blocks and chunks on the base of a shed in order to save about ten bags of new mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your suggestion of smashing it down and mixing it with cement would be the only real option available, and you must consider that it's the equivalent of adding any other inert granular substance. It may affect the overall structural strength, if that is a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T22:24:59.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3250" CreationDate="2018-10-23T04:25:48.230" Score="14" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Many people do this, it is common practice among watercolorists.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watercolor paints can be used in their wet form via a tube or they can be used as a dried over consistency. It has nothing to do with the paint being cheap or kiddie as another commenter said. It’s just preference to which consistency you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to have the watercolor dried out as it causes you to use less paint than if it was in liquid form. It’s also great for travelling purposes as you don’t have to worry about waiting a long time for your paint to dry before putting it away or having to worry about the colors mixing together in their wet form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s also more cost effective if you buy the paints in the tubes and then put them into half pans versus buying already dried half pans as you will get more paint for your buck buying them in the tub compared to buying them in half pans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6241" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T08:30:06.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5567" CreationDate="2018-10-23T14:29:40.570" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lf4Wl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lf4Wl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I make 4 of these statues, 1.25x life-size, then how much concrete should I purchase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan is to make a mould and pour into that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The original &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludovisi_Ares&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ludovisi Ares&lt;/a&gt; is 1.56 m in height. Therefore: (x1.25) 1.95 m high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I need to know how much Portland Cement (White), how much sand, and how much aggregate to order, and need a suggested recipe for the proportions of each and size(s) of aggregate I should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has to be liquid enough to pour into a mould and take the shape, but strong enough after drying to stand in public and withstand subtropical temperates and humidity, heavy rain, strong winds, and cold temperates (rarely freezing, 0℃ only one day a year if even that). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I will cure it for a full 28 or 30 days, and want it to have as smooth a finish ad possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all advice would be appreciated. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6227" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-17T19:28:35.697" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T21:43:13.520" Title="How much concrete to order?" Tags="|material-selection|sculpting|measurements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-25T13:17:31.783" Score="2" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I use China clay for making things, it is good, but when it is dry, after some time, they end up broken. Can anyone tell me that what can I do to prevent my works from breaking during the drying process? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6224" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T19:52:12.383" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T00:03:16.213" Title="Why are my China clay objects breaking during drying?" Tags="|clay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5556" CreationDate="2018-10-25T18:37:09.693" Score="7" ViewCount="2865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok. I have this can of Castin’ Craft brand polyester resin that is brand new. I unscrewed the top and was confronted with a second metal barrier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u0Ph7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u0Ph7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prying it with a screwdriver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grabbing the edge and unscrewing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting pressure from the inside and unscrewing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stabbing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Focusing my chakra, prana, and kundalini energy to visualize and create a portal through which I can pour out the contents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yelling at it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I just take a step bit to the top of this can, does anybody who’s used this resin know how to open this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this might be a silly question but I’ve never had so much trouble opening a can before, and believe me I’ve opened a lot of cans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4839" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T15:47:57.197" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T15:47:57.197" Title="How do you open Castin’ Craft resin cans?" Tags="|tool-selection|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5555" CreationDate="2018-10-25T18:51:42.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prying with a narrow screwdriver is a good start. It appears in the photo that you have a bit of a start at the near edge of the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular seal is a throw-away and you can indeed stab it. Something stronger than a pointed stick should do well enough. A small blade philips screwdriver tapped in then bent outward will distort the top sufficiently to pop it free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be not afraid, plunge onward!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2018-10-25T20:01:42.133" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T20:01:42.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5581" CreationDate="2018-10-26T15:21:18.647" Score="1" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some Gloomhaven miniatures which I am trying to get painted.  I am trying to find the appropriate price to offer someone to paint these miniatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/brushforhire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/brushforhire/&lt;/a&gt; to try to figure out what this should cost.  Nobody posts prices!  I keep seeing messages like: &quot;I sent you a PM with my prices.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is super weird!  What's going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6258" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:19:41.340" Title="Why is everyone so secretive about pricing for painting miniatures?" Tags="|painting|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-11-03T21:55:21.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5561" CreationDate="2018-10-27T05:32:45.887" Score="3" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on making a cosplay prop of a Fallout 4 Laser Rifle. Much of it I'm 3D printing due to easy access and quite frankly a lack of spare time to really handmake much of it. One thing that I'm curious about now is the barrel of the gun itself, a very segment of square tubing with rounded corners, preferably around ~4.5&quot; in width based on how I've modeled the back of the gun so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N2RaZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N2RaZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fallout 4 Laser Rifle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that came to mind here was some sort of prefab tubing, either like metal ducting or a PVC/plastic pipe. However, these either proved to be prohibitively expensive or nearly nonexistent in the size I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have suggestions on where I could get/easily manufacture a square tube like this with rounded corners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6261" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T06:13:24.783" Title="Mostly Off-the-Shelf (or at least quite easily fabricated) Rounded Square Tubing?" Tags="|props|prop-weapons|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5559" CreationDate="2018-10-28T06:13:24.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't specify what you considered prohibitively expensive, so I would suggest something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-4-in-x-4-in-x-6-ft-White-Vinyl-Fence-Post-195168/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vinyl fence posts&lt;/a&gt;. They come in sizes close to what you need, and you get quite a lot with one purchase, giving you room to make mistakes and experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, finding your exact dimensions is going to be difficult. To do that, I think you'd want to make your own. The cheapest and lightest (since you'll be carrying this around) way I can think to do that is to get some lengths of hobby wood. Balsa is cheap and light, but absorbent so it needs paint primer. Basswood is more expensive and a bit harder to work with, but is far less flimsy. I'd construct the tube out of 4 pieces, and probably glue them to blocks of styrofoam at the ends and middle. The foam will give the wood support and make it easier to glue the edges of the wood together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I'd just sand down the corners of the &quot;tube&quot;. It'd be time consuming, but not too bad, since balsa is so soft (basswood a bit less so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible to just use styrofoam, cutting sheets or blocks to size. Affordability of any of this will depend on your supplier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T06:13:24.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-28T09:45:23.637" Score="7" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some natural-grey handspun wool in a Slovenian village and want to make a rustic pullover with a classic aran pattern out of it. The problem is that, although the wool wraps to 9 wpi (which is &quot;worsted&quot; on Ravelry), it knits up to 14x18 on 5 mm needles. But the patterns I find are in the 18 to 24 stitches range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know well that your first thought will be &quot;change the needle size&quot; but I don't want to do that. So the question is asking specifically about getting the pullover made at the current gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot just knit less stitches in the circumference of an existing pattern, because the aran patterns have narrow vertical stripes of stitch patterns which cannot be reduced well. So I will have to scale. I calculated that to make a generously-eased pullover of 100 cm circumference at my gauge, I could use a pattern which is intended to make a 55 cm chest circumference at a 24 gauge. This would be a children's pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I follow such a pattern, is there a good chance that the pullover will scale properly for me? Also, will some pattern constructions work better than others, e.g. should I avoid raglans because they give me less controll to adjust the length in the shoulder area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Please note that this is not a question about alternative ways of getting the size I want. I am asking for answers which address specifically the questions in the title and in the last paragraph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastEditorUserId="77" LastEditDate="2018-10-28T12:47:38.140" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T09:16:37.320" Title="Will a children's pullover rescale for an adult?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5562" CreationDate="2018-10-28T10:45:59.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your pattern gives the sizes in cm or inches, you can adjust your knitting to the given sizes.&#xA;If your pattern is just given in the knitting pattern it is still possible but you may need to re-write it and you will need experience to adjust it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working from a child pattern you will need to check that the sizes match the adult who will need to wear it. Kids have other dimensions than adults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Arran knitting you can add more strips or leave out strips, or change strips from a narrow to a wider one. And where you have the few stitches between the strips you can add one or two of those to add in a bit more space, or bring them down from 5 or 4 by one or even two. You will need at least two stitches in between for most strips but you will have to try out how many more you need.&#xA;Make sure you keep the changes on both sides of the front and back the same but you can get away with different changes between front and back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some strips are flexible in size, if the pattern in the strip is just knit and purl without going over and under, you can almost always change it in width by the number of knits and purls you repeat. Just repeat them once more or twice more, or less of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a kid pattern for the layout of the strips but for an adult sweater you need adult sizes to make the pattern parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are an experienced (Arran) knitter or like to experiment, you are likely better off if you find a pattern that fits your wool, needles and the person to wear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T19:18:46.973" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T19:18:46.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-28T10:53:36.030" Score="1" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to attach legs to the table top (50x50 cm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AHimO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AHimO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and having difficulties placing them in the best way so the table can stand still:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iH09E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iH09E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any of you tell what is the minimum distance between legs on the floor and legs attached to the table top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I don't have any programs for designing furniture that would analyze it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update for willeke:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qd9GG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qd9GG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6266" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-10-28T17:28:08.547" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T19:49:58.987" Title="How to set the best solution for placing legs in this project" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5564" CreationDate="2018-10-28T11:26:39.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I see right that you only want to use two legs?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At 13 cm (about 5&quot;) they are not wide enough to support a 50 x 50 cm (20 x 20&quot;) table without extra support on the ground.&#xA;You do not need a computer program or phone app for this, people have made tables for many years before they even started with measurements, even less computers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place your legs on the floor, in the positions you want them to have when the table is made. (Straight up I thinkand try a few positions.) Put a clamps on the bottom of the legs to help them stay up, if needed.&#xA;Now put your top on it and balance it. It should stay there without you holding on if you want to have any hope of it working. The more to the sides your legs stand, the more stable the table will be side to side.&#xA;But the weak point will be front to back. You will have a very big area which is not supported well enough, so when the table is made with the legs in that position and you lean on the front or back of the table, it will tip over.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The whole of the table will do what the table top does when not fixed to the legs in that position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use these legs, you will need to add spreaders to the bottom of the legs, like the clamps I mentioned above.&#xA;The ends of the spreaders or horizontal parts will be the actual 'legs' in the bit I wrote below (Which I wrote expecting you to use 4 legs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance at the top does not matter, as long as you can place the legs at any angle. If you are restricted to straight or a limited amount of angle, your placement at the top needs to be adjusted to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more at, or sticking out of, the corner of the table in all 4 corners, the more stable the table will stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a home made stool/mini table where the bottom of the legs are no farther than 20 cm apart (about 8 inches) but the table top is only 25 cm (about 10&quot;) in diameter.&#xA;For a 50 x 50 cm table (20 x 20&quot;) I would want the legs to come to at least 10 cm inside the corner. It can be attached on the corner and come straight down, it can be added in the middle of the table and stick out to almost the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the legs (4) or spreaders to be in the middle of the side of the table, they need to come out to most of the outside of the table to give enough support in the corners of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to fix the top to the legs in such a way that the top is connected very securely, the more so, the more to the middle of the table you attach them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three legs would work, but four much narrower legs will be much less visible and give a nicer table in the end.&#xA;Two legs attached to a ring to stand on will also be sturdy enough, as long as all connections (to the ring and to the table top) are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-10-28T19:49:58.987" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T19:49:58.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5553" CreationDate="2018-10-28T18:14:18.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If each statue is 1.25x as large as the original, its volume will be 1.25 cubed, or a little over 1.95 times the volume of the original. If you can find out the weight of the original and the specific gravity of the stone of which it is carved, you can calculate the volume of stone in the statue and use that to calculate how much concrete you would need for a statue having almost twice the volume. I'll defer to the concrete experts about particulars on that subject.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6268" LastActivityDate="2018-10-28T18:14:18.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-29T10:31:57.137" Score="2" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I studied, in the printroom, there was a large bottle with the label 'sealer' on it (it seems that they transferred the contents of most products they used from the original containers to their own and labelled them accordingly, for safety reasons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We used it mainly for collagraphs (and sometimes for sealing problematic relief blocks).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It was a farely thick fluid of a light brown colour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It didn't take long to dry, as far as I remember.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It made the surfaces waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once dry it couldn't be remover with turpentine/white spirit, it needed some stronger solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It didn't have toxic vapours, if it had any scent at all it was &#xA;quite faint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what it was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6270" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T14:18:13.197" Title="What type of sealer is this?" Tags="|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5568" CreationDate="2018-10-29T14:18:13.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it could be shellac, possibly suspended in mineral spirits. It might also be damar varnish - but really that is speculation. Why don’t you track down someone from the place and ask them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They probably had very large containers that were hard to work with, so they would put them in more “handy” jars,&#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T14:18:13.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5574" CreationDate="2018-10-29T15:20:40.530" Score="6" ViewCount="20595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that for one to create a mold for pouring molten plastic in it, it only requires clay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what about metals? Are there easy materials to find so that I can use them to assemble them and create a mold for pouring any molten metal for giving a shape to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6207" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-29T19:31:57.267" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T23:23:43.633" Title="What material can be used to create a mold for pouring any molten metal without problems?" Tags="|material-selection|metalworking|mold-making|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5488" CreationDate="2018-10-29T19:06:38.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to make a textured design, have you thought about using Modge Podge? I've had good luck with Modge Podge onto thicker papers (and cardboard). I usually use thin scrapbook paper, or newspaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6271" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T19:06:38.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5570" CreationDate="2018-10-29T19:36:10.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally cast iron was cast in sand, link to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand_casting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page about casting in sand.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I have also seen other metals cast in sand, like pewter and silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as indicated in the comments on the question, other materials can be used as well.&#xA;Like plaster, ceramic, and even some kind of rubber for pewter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T19:36:10.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5570" CreationDate="2018-10-29T19:51:36.320" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first problem is water/ steam. If you pour 600 F solder or zinc into a plaster or clay mold it will make steam which will spoil the casting. Keep in mind materials like plaster of paris have water of hydration which can be released although they look dry. A mold made of metal works for low temperature metals . To cast higher temperature metals like copper base and aluminum you would best use foundry materials for a mold , essentially sand with some binding agent. I don't think anything can be made without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T19:51:36.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5570" CreationDate="2018-10-29T20:08:07.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For use with the widest range of metals, a properly prepared ceramic mold is your best bet. It can tolerate high temperatures and capture fine details well. However, these are commonly single-use molds that are broken to remove the cast object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than trying to find a &quot;silver bullet,&quot; you're better off targeting your specific needs for each case. If you're casting a single sculpture in bronze or aluminum from a wax base (&quot;lost wax&quot; casting), use the ceramic mold. If you're doing a styrofoam master sculpt to cast (&quot;lost foam&quot; casting), use sand. For precious metals, use kiln-dried plaster. For low-temperature metals in one-off casts, plaster works well; for multiple casts, a heat-resistant rubber or some metals will work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2018-10-29T20:08:07.853" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-30T10:20:44.557" Score="2" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m asking this because, I’m trying to find how to make a powerful crucible that when you melt any plastic in it, it doesn’t not happen anything to it, and you can also hold it with your hands even though it contain molten plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; It is possible to create a powerful crucible from simple materials that you can hold it with your hands and in the same time contains molten plastic in it without causing any problem? If yes, what type of simple materials I need to create this kind of crucible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6207" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T17:03:30.757" Title="It is possible to create powerful crucible that you can melt plastics in it? If yes, how can I create it from simple materials?" Tags="|material-selection|plastic|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5575" CreationDate="2018-10-30T16:21:36.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to check the melting point of the specific thermoplastic you intend to use -- some will burn or give off nasty fumes at temperatures where others are still solid.  And you need to be sure you actually have a thermoplastic and not a thermosetting plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for most common thermoplastics, ordinary ceramic kitchenware will handle the heat perfectly well. If you melt the plastic then pour it into the bowl, you'll be able to handle the bowl.  If you want to put the bowl in an oven to melt the plastic, obviously you'll need something like oven gloves to handle it with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to make something yourself, clay will do the job (it will work just dried, without firing). Unglazed it will be hard to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T16:21:36.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5579" CreationDate="2018-10-31T07:33:03.793" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUBfL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Apologies for being a noob. This set (3v lithium battery, color interchanging light &amp;amp; circuit board) was taped inside my pasties. I had customized the front, and they were supposed to light up for an event. However, upon molding it to my body, one of the wires connecting the battery to the circuit board snapped. I have attempted to use E6000 glue to reattach but feel certain this is a bad idea. Can anyone please tell me if I can find this circuit board/battery set on Amazon, or do I need to buy the individual pieces and make this set myself? TIA. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0guc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6281" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T18:52:41.713" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:52:41.713" Title="LED pasties, 3v circuit board lights" Tags="|material-identification|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5578" CreationDate="2018-10-31T09:30:37.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the number visible in the photo, I discovered that the item is sometimes called a &quot;disc golf light&quot; and found that there are single LED and triple LED versions. You can use the same search terms to find a resource of your choosing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an inexpensive US-based resource here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.extremeglow.com/store/p/27-Flat-Lights-2-Pack.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImfnexK6w3gIVl7rACh2fbQ9yEAQYASABEgIvk_D_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;disc golf lights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVCFF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVCFF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;disc golf lights&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the search returns that reference Amazon result in a 404 error, others do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T09:30:37.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-31T18:15:41.700" Score="8" ViewCount="1388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a wooden gaming board and would like to stain the wood as well as paint an acrylic decoration on it. Can I stain the wood first, paint with acrylics, then put a sealer coat on it or will the acrylic not adhere to the wood due to the stain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6283" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:24:13.537" Title="Should I stain wood then use acrylic or vice versa?" Tags="|wood|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2018-10-31T18:19:41.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my own personal experience, I have found that sellers do not publicly post their prices in order to remain competitive in the market. If they were to post their prices, a competitor can easily undermine that seller by decreasing their own prices for the same service in order to steal the customer and make the sale.  Furthermore, by not publicly posting prices, it allows a seller to assess each potential commission on a case-by-case basis, as often two projects are never completely identical in terms of time and effort.  Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6284" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:19:41.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5580" CreationDate="2018-10-31T18:24:13.537" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;DeAngelis,&#xA;  In my personal experience, I have had the most success with this type of project by applying a water-based stain first, followed by the acrylics, and lastly the sealer coat.  You must ensure that the stain you are using is water-based, as opposed to oil-based in order for the acrylics to properly set and adhere. In your order of operations, definitely do the staining process first, before the acrylics, otherwise the stain will affect the color and appearance of the acrylics, just as it is doing to the wood itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6284" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:24:13.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-10-31T18:31:12.413" Score="8" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am quickly nearing the end of an embroidery hoop project, and am not sure how to finish it.  I plan to display the project within the hoop itself, but am in search of guidance on how to finish the edges of the fabric, so that the project as a whole is only the size of the hoop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6284" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T22:29:27.413" Title="Finishing an Embroidery Hoop" Tags="|embroidery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5584" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2018-10-31T18:56:57.817" Score="0" Body="" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T18:56:57.817" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:56:57.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5585" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2018-10-31T18:56:57.817" Score="0" Body="For questions about using or integrating electronics components, such as wiring, circuit boards, motors, sensors, power, lighting, etc. " OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T18:56:57.817" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T18:56:57.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5562" CreationDate="2018-11-01T09:16:37.320" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it almost certainly will not scale to fit you appropriately. But it could work with some reasonably simple adjustments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Explanation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, garments for babies and toddlers have shorter arms and shorter torso-length compared to the chest circumference than garments for adults. They sometimes also have a wider neck opening, and the size of the arm holes may be larger for ease of dressing and movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you scale a small child's pullover up to adult size based on the chest circumference, the arms and torso will be too short. But, if you can find out from the pattern the relevant dimensions of the finished garment, you can scale it all up, then work out how much extra length is needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would also be worth checking that the neck and arm hole sizes are appropriate, although if you are making a loose-fitting pullover, then these won't be as much of an issue. But different constructions will behave differently around the shoulders, as you expect. I expect that raglans and drop shoulders would be fine. I think round yokes are likely to be less easy. But the only way to really know is to do the maths!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adding length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be easy to add length to the torso by adding some extra rows, although it may take some care to make sure you get whole repeats of any pattern(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arms are likely to be tapered from the shoulder to the wrist. You should probably keep the same number of decreases, so you should add rows between decreases, to make the tapering appropriate for an adult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Worked example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By comparing patterns for the same raglan pullover sized for adults:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/02/16/lauras-loop-the-purl-soho-friendly-fair-isle-sweater/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/02/16/lauras-loop-the-purl-soho-friendly-fair-isle-sweater/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and children:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/01/02/friendly-fair-isle-sweater-now-sized-for-toddlers-kids-too/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/01/02/friendly-fair-isle-sweater-now-sized-for-toddlers-kids-too/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that I round to the nearest quarter inch and to the nearest 0.5 cm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adult size 40 has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chest circumference of 40'' / 101.5 cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total length 23'' / 58.5 cm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;arm length 18.5'' / 47 cm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The child size (12 months) has&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chest circumference 22.75'' / 58 cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total length 12'' / 30.5 cm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;arm length 6.5'' / 16.5 cm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you scale the child size up to match the adults chest circumference, then you would have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gauge 7stitches x  9 rows per 4'' / 10 cm (very chunky!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total length 21'' / 53cm (2'' / 5.5 cm / 4 rows shorter than adult)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;arm length 11.5'' / 29 cm (7'' / 16 cm / 16 rows shorter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can see that you would need to add 16 rows to the arms and 4 to the torso to match the adult size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you could compare your scaled-up child's pattern to a different adult's pattern, or to a pullover that you own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2022" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T09:16:37.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-02T15:02:27.763" Score="5" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to design a leather box, I've got the plan penciled out - but now looking to create a scale model out of card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a tool that will allow me to make my scribbles into a to-scale print out which I can then use to take the project forward.  Something similar to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKz1s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKz1s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20181205163451/http://imperialbox.net/images/site/custom-box-styles_23.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A free or cheap software tool would be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6295" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T20:57:16.243" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T05:55:46.297" Title="Tool To Create Folding Plans" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5589" CreationDate="2018-11-02T22:42:09.777" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a machine that made paper airplanes. Now my question is this: what’s the name of the machine &amp;amp; are there any pictures of same?&#xA;I’m just EXTREMELY curious about this supposed machine .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastEditorUserId="6118" LastEditDate="2018-12-05T02:50:02.570" LastActivityDate="2018-12-05T02:50:02.570" Title="Paper airplane maker" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5588" CreationDate="2018-11-02T23:30:08.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a good start would be to use &quot;paper airplane making machine&quot; as the terms of your search process. I did and discovered a great number of different machines constructed by makers/tinkerers. I expect you will not find an off-the-shelf solution, although the Lego version certainly gets close to something a homebuilder can construct more easily than some of the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This first one shows some impressive construction, apparently using parts from old printers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://6abc.com/science/student-creates-paper-plane-machine-for-his-final-project/3230717/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://6abc.com/science/student-creates-paper-plane-machine-for-his-final-project/3230717/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ten-second video of another impressive build, more sophisticated than the previous:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkTDtrNo95c&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkTDtrNo95c&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lego build is at the top of my list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://makezine.com/2016/02/12/machine-fold-launch-perfect-paper-airplane/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://makezine.com/2016/02/12/machine-fold-launch-perfect-paper-airplane/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link also contains other links for additional machines used to fold and launch paper airplanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more, but if you use my suggested search terms, you can pick the ones that suit your fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-11-02T23:30:08.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-03T05:02:33.360" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fun, I started designing some two-dimensional mechanisms with parts that rotate, slide and gear against each other. Ultimately these will be made from laser-cut acrylic, but since I don't have easy access to a laser cutter I would like to find a way to prototype them at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using foam board, the kind used for architectural models. This is great because I can cut it accurately with an X-Acto knife or a circle cutting tool, but unfortunately the cut edges don't slide against each other very well - there's too much friction for my design to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if there is another material that would be more suitable. That is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;easy to cut accurately at home&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;at least a couple of millimetres thick&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;can be sanded smooth so the edges will slide well against each other&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;doesn't need any bending strength, since all parts will rest against a flat surface and only move in the XY directions&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind buying tools to cut the material, but I don't have any working space apart from a carpeted living room and a small balcony, so I can't install anything that will take up space or make a mess. Potentially I could use a Dremel or something out on the balcony if that's the right approach, but I'd be a bit worried about the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastEditorUserId="399" LastEditDate="2018-11-03T06:10:32.880" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T14:49:02.277" Title="Material to prototype gear designs" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5590" CreationDate="2018-11-03T10:27:15.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Balsa wood is available from many sources and can often be found at local outlets. Various thickness panels are usually presented in shelf units or organizer caddies, typically in 24&quot; or 36&quot; lengths (0.6/0.9m) and varying widths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balsa wood is quite soft and easily cut, more easily than foam core as it is consistent throughout the thickness. There will be weakness parallel to the grain, however, which means gear teeth will break off if too much force is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could create the model components and then apply a thin layer of PVA glue along with a paper reinforcement layer to mitigate the grain-parallel weakness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/8&quot; balsa (3mm) can be cut with a sharp razor knife, but I believe you'll have better strength with 3/16&quot; to 1/4&quot; material (4.75 to 6.35mm), especially if you apply paper reinforcement. If one layer on one side appears insufficient, apply a second layer on the other side. It would then be the equivalent of foam core board with a much stronger inner ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balsa sands to a very smooth surface. You could then apply a thin layer of glue if you require a harder contact area for reduced friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T16:23:43.680" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T16:23:43.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5587" CreationDate="2018-11-03T20:44:08.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scan your pencil drawing into a bitmap format (like jpg) and then use the &quot;Trace Bitmap&quot; feature of the Inkscape open source vector drawing program to turn that into a vector drawing (such as an svg or dxf).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you an initial digital representation of your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you will need to familiarize yourself with inkscape's tools to correct the drawing, scanning and conversion errors which will inevitably occur.   For example, you will want to remove the extra vector anchors which faithfully captured the slightest irregularities in what you thought were straight lines.  Truly straight lines should be represented in your drawing by two vector anchors only (one at each end).  You will also want to fix all of your &quot;nearly 90 degree&quot; hand drawn angles so that they are precisely 90 degrees.  This editing will take a long time if you are new to inkscape but will get easier over time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your vector drawing meets your quality standards, you can make future modifications and print out folding diagrams from within inkscape, without further use of manual (pencil &amp;amp; paper) design techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One nice side effect of converting your drawing into a cleaned up vector image is that you can then modify it's scale proportionally, allowing you to produce your box in any size desirable.  You can also then import your saved vector image file into the control software of a vinyl cutter (like the Silhouette) or a laser cutter, either of which can cut out fold-ready boxes out of different materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T20:44:08.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5554" CreationDate="2018-11-05T03:53:22.350" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that your clay is not plastic enough. Meaning the elasticity of the clay. Once way to improve the elasticity is to age the clay with mold fungus. You can do this by adding beer or milk to the clay, mix it in and let it sit covered over a period of time. Fungus has microscopic fibers that help bind the clay and water molecules together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6305" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T03:53:22.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5596" CreationDate="2018-11-05T08:30:14.750" Score="5" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am crafting my own drill powered lathe so I can improve my ring making. The problem is, even though I can make a working lathe, I do not have a way to securely place the ring in the lathe to make it fit snug like I could with an expanding ring mandrel. The expanding ring mandrel does not fit inside of my current drill so I have to use alternative methods. I like crafting things with my own hands, and this ring mandrel is just another step in the fun process of starting a new hobby. Anyone have any ideas on how I can make this work? My drill can open it's jaws up to 1/3&quot; I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video for reference on how I will create my lathe.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/KmpdEtvVRfI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/KmpdEtvVRfI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How an expanding mandrel works. 7:08&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/iiFIfKikJRM?t=428&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/iiFIfKikJRM?t=428&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6306" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T09:32:12.167" Title="creating something like an expanding ring mandrel for my homemade lathe" Tags="|material-selection|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5595" CreationDate="2018-11-05T09:32:12.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making one properly without a (metalworking) lathe would be very difficult.  With one it's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW-k0M92m9U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quite easy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1fucbgiLZo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube video&lt;/a&gt; shows one made from simple hardware, and you could choose an appropriate screw for the shaft to fit your chuck.  But I'm not sure I'd trust its centration (might not matter if you're just using it like the second video link).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible to replace the chuck on your drill with a 1/2&quot; version.  Then you could buy and off-the-shelf ring mandrel.  1/3&quot; is uncommon, though 3/8&quot; or 10&amp;nbsp;mm is quite common on battery drills, and I have a hand drill with a 1/4&quot; chuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-11-05T09:32:12.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5600" CreationDate="2018-11-07T18:41:44.850" Score="2" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any adhesive material through which we can hang painting and photo frames on wall without nails.Such that on removing it not damage the walls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastEditorUserId="6314" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T03:26:52.327" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T08:28:38.007" Title="what could be used hanging object such as painting on wall without nails?" Tags="|adhesives|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2018-11-07T22:39:48.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the questions in my comment, one answer to your question may be to use 3M Command Adhesive products. These are double sided foam strips with an accessory attached to one side. Sometimes the accessory is a hook made from formed/molded plastic, sometimes it's a metal hook on a strap-like attachment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other versions use a velcro-type product on the foam adhesive strip. You attach one piece of the velcro to your frame and the other (foam) velcro to the wall with the 3M adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many other accessories exist and most are available in local retail outlets as well as on Amazon.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key feature of this product is that when it is necessary to remove the hanging item, one pulls on the tab attached to the foam tape. It stretches and distorts and releases in a controlled manner, creating nearly zero damage to the underlying surface. I say nearly zero, because poorly painted surfaces may crack and peel, but properly painted surfaces will release cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are versions of this product that are rated by the weight each strip will hold safely. If you have a 10 kg frame and can find only 5 kg capable strips, get two, and you'll be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T22:39:48.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5604" CreationDate="2018-11-08T09:08:21.960" Score="6" ViewCount="1050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few kitchen items that have become chipped from use (such as pint glasses and mixing bowls) and I would like to sand them to make the edges dull so they are safe to use again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/1887/what-can-i-do-to-smooth-and-polish-hand-cut-glass-edges&quot;&gt;question that asked about sanding hand cut glass&lt;/a&gt;, but most of the answers talked about using electric tools and techniques. I would like to do it by hand because the pieces are not flat (oddly shaped), and not very large; a machine tool would be overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What grit type of sand paper or other hand tools will help me with this task?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know already I will need &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proper eye wear &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proper face mask&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some kind of lubricant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T21:14:29.777" Title="How to sand food safe glass by hand" Tags="|glass|safety|food-safe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5605" CreationDate="2018-11-08T11:23:21.867" Score="2" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the type of art below called?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And what type of paper and colors are used here? Can I do that using acrylic colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRoKe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XRoKe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;water color art&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4739" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T09:10:56.970" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T09:10:56.970" Title="What is this type of art called?" Tags="|painting|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5602" CreationDate="2018-11-08T17:38:01.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would use a hand held diamond file.  They are sold specifically for the purpose you are describing (fixing chipped articles).  There are a number of articles and videos online which detail the process and specify which files to use (flat, rounded, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1741" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T17:38:01.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5603" CreationDate="2018-11-09T08:21:34.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an aquarelle painting and from the looks of it either watercolors or inks (or both) were used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique uses lots of water, so you need really thick paper for it. Many hobby / craft / art shops sell special aquarelle paper. It's as thick as cardboard but white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic colors are not well suited for this kind of art because they dry too fast and become waterproof after drying. But you can experiement with acrylic colors and see what kind of effects they produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might get the idea of using a cheap, school grade box of watercolors, but these will produce muddy and chalky colors and nothing like the warm glow in the center of the picture. Aquarelle colors are rather expensive compared to acrylic or oil colors because they contain lots of pigments and not much more. They are usually sold in little cubess or disks and you use them by brushing a wet paint brush over them. And one disk or cube of watercolor goes a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn painting with watercolors, start with learning about the different effects of wet-in-wet and wet-on-dry technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2018-11-09T08:36:53.010" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T08:36:53.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5307" CreationDate="2018-11-09T11:52:32.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem and the result looked the same (neat stitches on top and a chaos of loops on the bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case the bobbin case jammed when I inserted it into the machine. It looked like it was sitting in the right position, but it wasn't pushed all the way into its slot. As a result, the bobbin case protruded a millimeter from its case and the thread got caught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slight push on the bobbin case every time after inserting it solved the problem for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T11:52:32.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2018-11-09T13:18:48.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Covering a cut stone with something like clear nail polish will diminish the shine of the stones. And you have to expect the polish to break or flake of at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead you should go to a professional jeweller and explain the problem to them. They can have a look at the tiny metal protrusions that hold the stones in place and reshape some of them if needed. Or they can glue the stones in place (on the backside) with a professional glue that doesn't break off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T13:18:48.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-10T17:13:12.897" Score="5" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Below is a 150x microscope view of a 301 steel plate. It is covered by this type of small blue spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appeared after the steel had been treated at 400°C. The subcontractor thinks that the steel was not cleaned correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with similar results ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVRoO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVRoOm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AISI 301 steel x150 after 400 degrees Celsius heat treatment&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click image for larger version&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6131" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T16:07:40.923" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T16:07:40.923" Title="What are these blue spots on a AISI 301 steel plate?" Tags="|metal|metalworking|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2023-02-11T01:00:27.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-11T17:31:43.923" Score="5" ViewCount="823" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a print in linocut on a piece of tissue paper. Now I want to paste it on a thicker paper.&#xA;How I can paste tissue paper with a linocut print onto thicker paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6330" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T10:14:28.580" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T02:04:02.433" Title="How to paste tissue paper onto thicker paper?" Tags="|adhesives|paper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5612" CreationDate="2018-11-12T08:06:54.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a roll press (etching press), an option would be to use stick glue (if the tissue paper will be pasted all the way on the thicker paper apply the glue on the thick paper, if there will be margins apply it carefully on the tissue paper; either way I'd suggest you use a slightly wider sheet which could be trimmed later to the desired shape and size. Also make sure all the area is covered in glue - where there is no glue a 'bubble' will be formed). Then run it through the roll press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6333" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T08:06:54.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5751" CreationDate="2018-11-12T13:34:15.110" Score="2" ViewCount="3371" Body="&lt;p&gt;What aggregate size should I use for making concrete sculptures of humans and animals, 1.2 x Life-sized, poured into moulds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what ratio should I use for the (white Portland cement) to sand to aggregate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6227" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T18:12:41.817" Title="Aggregate size and mix ratio for concrete sculptures" Tags="|material-selection|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2018-11-12T20:59:23.240" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you using a yarn winder and swift to wind the yarn?  We have found through trial and error that being able to maintain a consistent, and steady winding speed while not being too fast helps a lot with pulling from the center&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6335" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T20:59:23.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3615" CreationDate="2018-11-12T21:11:28.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option, depending on if you buy your yarn locally, or order online, is having them wind it beforehand.  We have a swift and winder and mostly wind our own, but occasionally when order from sites like Miss Babs, will have them wind it before shipping.  They usually charge around $5 skein to wind it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6335" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T21:11:28.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2018-11-13T15:06:21.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming this is a  commercial skein, I don't generally have issues. I am &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; able to pull out the center of a skein. I would never guarantee that you can do this though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be manufacturer specific. There is no mandate to ensure that you can get a center pull from a skein. However, when it comes to most of the skeins of the following style:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3jlls.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3jlls.png&quot; alt=&quot;Skein collection&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paradisefibers.com/products/brown-sheep-nature-spun-worsted-yarn&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;paradisefibers.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can go in a grab the middle chunk and find the end in there. Sometimes you can find ones where they are specifically assembled for you to do this i.e. there is a tail stick out from the center. In many cases there is not a simple thread to pull but a small unorganized ball that you have to unravel first so don't give up too soon when looking for it. Once you unravel that chunk or ball then the rest is easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T15:06:21.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3475" CreationDate="2018-11-14T10:23:52.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a cheap paint brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Preparation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a flat, broad brush used for home decorations or an old brush you no longer use for crafting. Stiff bristles with a light color are preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seperate a small amount of bristles to one side. You can permanently bend them by applying some force or you can cover the remaining bristles with masking tape. Apply paint to the selected bristles and let it dry completely if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Application&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a drop of glue onto a flat surface (not your terrain). Grab your seperated bristles with your non-dominant hand and don't let go until they are glued to the terrain. Cut the bristles to the desired length with a pair of scisors. You should end up with a staight cut. Dab the cut edge of the bristles into your prepared glue and place it onto your terrain. Hold it a few seconds to allow the glue to set. As long as the glue is somewhat wet, you can change the shape of the tuft using a toothpick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T10:23:52.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="669" CreationDate="2018-11-14T12:17:08.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Erica I use thread bobbins, before this I used miniature pegs which were really cute, but the wood mine were made of was stupid cheap and so ended up ripping my threads. The thread bobbins is a great way though, you can buy them super cheap but I recommend customising. I have customised so that mine all have what number colour and make they are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6342" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T12:17:08.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3273" CreationDate="2018-11-14T12:41:44.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In my experiments so far I am having to go over each line several times to stop the background colour from showing through the acrylic. Even when the background is only white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably caused by the quality of your paint. Pigments are usually the most expensive ingredient in any paint, so the cheaper the paint, the less pigments are in it. In order to cover your background color you need to create a layer of pigments over it. If your paint doesn't contain enough pigments, that can only be achieved by putting several layers of paint over each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are usually 3 categories of paint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hobby quality: Very cheap, full of fillers and almost no pigment at all. Mixing colors is a gamble at best and impossible at worst. Useless for any crafting project. These can be found in dollar stores and similar shops that don't usually have art supplies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;College / art student quality: Good price-performance-ratio with acceptable amount of pigments. They're often offered in a wide variety of colors that usually mix well. These are best fit for crafting projects and can be found in most craft shops and some DIY or construction stores.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artist quality: Most expensive but usually contain the most (and purest) pigments and least additives. They're often thicker in consistency than collage quality paints and some very special pigments (like ground up semi-precious stones) may only be offered in artist quality paints. Use these when you need absolute coverage of any color in small areas (like miniature painting) or when you need consistent coloration despite extreme dilution of the paint. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T12:41:44.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3113" CreationDate="2018-11-14T15:10:30.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thickness of the fabric and whether or not you press your seams makes a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fabric in the upper picture is so thin you can actually see through it, while the one in the lower picture looks quite thick and almost like felt. Thicker fabric will always create thicker seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To create a nice flat seam you basically want the fabric to fold as flat as possible at the very center of the seam. This can only be achieved by pressing / ironing the seams open. Have a look at my fabulous diagram: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBvYo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBvYo.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you sew two pieces of fabric together, they lay straight. When you open the seam, both pieces try to stay as straight as possible, creating those &quot;lips&quot;. If one piece of fabric is thicker / stronger than the other one, it will stay straight and force the weaker piece to bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By pressing / ironing the seam you tell the fabric exactly where to fold in which direction, creating a neat, flat seam. It works so well that you can make a seam in a woven cotton fabric almost invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T12:15:21.307" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T12:15:21.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3273" CreationDate="2018-11-14T15:47:53.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned the concentration of pigment is important to the ability to cover. Yes, high quality paint will usually have a higher concentration of pigments, but bear also in mind, that some pigments are more opaque than others. For example, the colors &quot;madder Brilliant&quot; and &quot;cadmium red medium&quot; (primacryl from schmincke) have almost the same brilliant red color. However, the first is comprised of a transparent pigment while the other is highly opaque. So you have to ckeck for opacity of your color before using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concentration of the pigment is still important if you want to thin your color to a liquid consistency. If you want to thin your color a lot, colors with highly concentrated pigments (often called artist grade or professional color) are preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also acryilic inks that are quite liquid, but for these you still have to check the opacity, because different applications require different transparency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to brushes, you need to use a brush with a high capacity for holding paint to achieve consistent lines. Look for watercolor brushes or asian caligraphy brushes with long soft hair. I prefer cligraphy brushes with a mixture of hair from goat (soft hair) and marter or badger hair (a bit more rigid). It looks like haring is also using a caligraphy brush in the linked video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T15:47:53.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5638" CreationDate="2018-11-15T11:06:08.683" Score="2" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to have a picture painted by my friend onto an acoustic panel in my room. I contacted some local companies working on such projects, but they work only with printing on this material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately one of the manufacturers responded to my e-mail and explained the issues I will meet. He explained to me that material behind the picture needs to &quot;breathe&quot;, so the canvas can't be covered with thick layer of oil paint, and even shouldn't be primed. &lt;strong&gt;Do you have any solution to allow such picture &quot;breathing&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;breathing&quot; is necessary, because the canvas needs to have pores allowing the sound wave to pass through and be absorbed by the material behind the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about painting without priming, but I am not a painter and I don't know why priming is so important. My painter says it is impossible to paint without priming, but he isn't a professional painter, rather enthusiast, and he doesn't think he knows all tricks allowing such things, but he is willing to get to know them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6346" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T10:09:48.477" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T09:10:14.637" Title="Breathable painting for acoustic panels?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-16T03:22:12.553" Score="2" ViewCount="2469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a sculpture with a pure copper wire wrapped with polymer clay. Will I have problems baking this in the oven with a temperature of 120-13 degrees Celsius/ 248-266 degrees Fahrenheit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6349" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-11-17T19:18:54.137" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T19:18:54.137" Title="Can you bake a sculpture with a copper wire inside?" Tags="|sculpting|polymer-clay|wire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5628" CreationDate="2018-11-16T08:54:36.453" Score="2" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently experimenting with making silicone molds for casting. I'm not interested in the commertially available molds and want to make my own. For financial reasons I use the cartridges of transparent silicone commonly available in home construction stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my first experiment I wrapped a plastic bead in silicone to make a mold. The silicone took on the color of the bead, so it clearly reacted and melded with the plastic. I was unable to remove the bead from the silicone and threw the whole thing away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I carved an object out of candle wax and covered that in silicone. When the silicone was cured, the object was covered by a thin layer of very white wax, almost like a frosting. After removing the object from the mold the white residue stayed behind and the planes of the object were not cleanly molded and full of imperfections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I tried a special &quot;casting putty&quot;. It is not polymer clay like Fimo, but a putty designed to seal gaps in molds before casting. It gets soft and malleable at body temperature and hardens when cooled down. Again, the silicone melded with the putty. I haven't tried polymer clay because I noticed that I couldn't make the planes of the putty object as smoth and shiny as I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't expecting silicone to react and meld with materials, least of all candle wax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a material that can be easily cut and carved into clean, shiny planes but that does not react with silicone?&lt;/strong&gt; Or do I have to coat my objects in another material to protect them from the silicone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T09:02:55.220" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T12:43:16.580" Title="Material that can be cut / carved and doesn't react with silicone" Tags="|material-selection|casting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5624" CreationDate="2018-11-16T10:10:15.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copper has a melting point of 1085°C/1984°F which is well above your expected temperatures. There should be no danger of losing structural integrity of the sculpture due to melting of the copper wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Tables/thexp.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;chart at hyperphysics&lt;/a&gt;, copper has an expansion coefficient of 17x10^-6 per degree C. This is 0.000017 or 0.0017 percent per degree C. Only aluminum, brass and silver expand more than copper. If you consider an extreme case in which your copper was formed when the temperature was 200° cooler, this would make the expansion 0.34 percent (if my hasty math is correct). 33 percent is one third. 0.34 percent is one-three-hundredth and that's for a two hundred degree change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be expansion, but I expect that it will cause no impact on the sculpture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T10:10:15.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5625" CreationDate="2018-11-16T12:29:12.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cover the object in petroleum jelly (aka Vaseline) first, you may also try adding paint thinner to it, to make the coating smoother. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using different types of construction silicone may give different results. Some of these contain glue and other components that make the cured silicone stick better to different surfaces. So I guess the simplest and cheapest neutral silicone is the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: some say that adding the corn starch to silicone makes the molds dry faster. Not sure if it makes the silicone less liquid though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4569" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T12:29:12.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5625" CreationDate="2018-11-16T12:43:16.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reactions you noticed are quite certainly not the silicone, but the by-product/reaction-starter of the hardening silicone, an acid. This acid can usually just escape as vapor and is what makes the acidic smell after using silicone. There are different versions of home construction silicone, that use different chemical pathways for hardening and therefore have different by-poducts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to try something that has a tin based reaction starter (2 component system) or a 1-component system based on amines (smells like fish, not like acid, while hardening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4718" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T12:43:16.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5583" CreationDate="2018-11-16T12:53:31.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend checking out YouTube, there a bunch of methods and they give you a full tutorial on how to do it. I tend to cut so there's may a centimetre of two to fold back thread with a needle and pull tight, a bit like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/finishing-the-back-of-hooped-embroidery-4115406&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt; but only up to step 4. You can go on to cover the back, but it's all mostly down to your personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6342" LastActivityDate="2018-11-16T12:53:31.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5631" CreationDate="2018-11-17T16:09:57.927" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this Lenovo Y720 laptop which got an overall black design, but this one red square is driving me nuts. Is there a way to paint it black or some vinyl I can add? There are no skins for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eyigt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eyigt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trackpad&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T23:41:00.350" Title="Remove or hide red colour from trackpad on laptop" Tags="|plastic|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-12-21T05:04:22.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5630" CreationDate="2018-11-17T17:42:26.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought would be to use 1/8&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B072C4BHVH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;black pinstripe tape&lt;/a&gt; for the long straight red parts.  Cut the tape to length before applying it to the touchpad edges.  Never apply the knife tip against the touchpad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rounded over corners are probably too tight for the tape to bend around smoothly but it might be worth a try.  If the thin tape alone can't make the bend, Oracal makes wider rolls (sold from the same amazon page above).  You could apply some of the 1/2&quot; pinstripe tape to a non-stick surface (like a plastic cutting board) then cut out the corner curve using an xacto-blade.  Again, keep the knife away from the touchpad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that I have recommended tapes that cost over 20 dollars total which puts you within 10 bucks of the cost of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0772VP3QD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this black carbon-fiber skin&lt;/a&gt; which appears to be specifically made for your laptop.  (The same manufacturer also has a charcoal wood skin that makes me consider buying a Y720 for myself.  I do a lot of shou-sugi-ban finishes on my woodwork, so the charcoal style is perfect for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2018-11-17T23:41:00.350" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T23:41:00.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-18T07:25:50.037" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;The knitted sweater pattern instructions for casting off sleeve at shoulder says:&#xA;&quot;Before casting off, work center st and 5th st on either side as dropped st.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please explain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6353" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T21:30:03.780" Title="What does &quot;work as dropped stitch&quot; mean in knitting pattern?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5612" CreationDate="2018-11-18T20:57:57.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;wheat starch glue&lt;/strong&gt;. It is archival, can go on thin enough to not over saturate the tissue paper, makes a strong bond when dries. Unlike most modern adhesives it is chemically inert so it will not stain your tissue paper or yellow over time. It is the traditional glue of bookbinders and has been around for centuries which is a pretty good testament to its usefulness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T20:57:57.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5602" CreationDate="2018-11-18T21:14:29.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use emery cloth to sand down the sharp edges on glass. Medium to fine grit as superfine would take more work and large grit will just make scratches in the glass. Depending on how much area you are working and how smooth you want to go you may need to use a few stages with rougher to finer grit emery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The emery cloth, being flexible, will be good for those oddly shaped areas and I do not think you would need to use any lubrication. Maybe water to rinse away the glass dust...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T21:14:29.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2345" CreationDate="2018-11-19T10:46:43.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you should let green wood dry for 2 years before carving objects out of them or using it to build something. Depending on the local climate, the size of the wood block (or tree) and how you dry it, the time may shorten to several months or extend to 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood shrinks and warps as it dries. If you cut or carve it green, the size will be different once it's dry. If one side dries quicker than the other, the object will warp and deform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood rips along the grain as it dries. If you cut planks or disks out of green wood, they may rip and break (due to the shrinking and warping). If you carve an object out of green wood, delicate pats may break off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The moisture makes green wood harder to carve. You need more force and may end up with mistakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have branch or stem and want to make it into a walking stick, such a long wait won't be nessecary. First remove the bark and let it dry for a few days. Add ornaments only after the surface feels dry or you'll end up with splinters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T12:40:32.110" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T12:40:32.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5633" CreationDate="2018-11-19T21:30:03.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That instruction (usually) means the last row at the top of the shoulder on the arm is knit w/ the same stitches as instructed to use thus far, except those two stitches as specified. In the case of the center and 5th, you don't actually &quot;knit&quot; them, not even a 'slip' stitch, which would result in the same number of stitches in that final row, and possibly a 'bump' at the shoulder when joined. You just drop them off the needle. The last row then ends as 3 stitches that are fairly compact, including your cast off, and is similar to doing a small tuck at the top of the arm in sewing so the shoulder is flat. There will be no need to 'gather' together as you sew the arm in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is my first, and strongest, impression of what that instruction is asking. I'm an intermediate to highly skilled knitter, though I wouldn't go so far as to say &quot;expert&quot;. I have to admit, that line would have me second guessing the intent of the author. My further thoughts on it, as I considered it a little longer, are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems as if they are instructing you to drop those two stitches as part of casting off, and I must say I do find that highly unusual. The cast off won't add any real &quot;structure&quot; and simply results in your last row being nicely flat, without curling in on you. That gives me the impression of leaving a hole in the very center of the shoulder at the arm seam. A very bulky sweater with chunky yarn may well need that exact thing, though that style of sweater doesn't usually call for a seam at the shoulder at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when a pattern calls for a &quot;drp st&quot;, I will combine the specified stitch(es) into the previous or next one, and knit both as just one (as in reducing) if the yarn or pattern results in a stretchy/loose type garment style. In that case the 'dropped' stitch can look much more like a 'hole', or can result in a 'pointy' bump at the curve of the shoulder. You will have to judge that for yourself, according to the type of pattern you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the wording is, as you've given it, I don't blame you for needing clarification. Sometimes different regions will give stitch names like that but can mean something other than what you've learned. If there is a 'legend' of what each stitch name is, usually that 'dropped st' is written as &quot;drpst&quot; or &quot;drp st&quot; with a brief description of how to form it. I would have to see the pattern, go by the instruction style, and maybe determine the area of the world it originated from. I can tell you that 'cast off' does not 'add' a row, but it feels as if they are telling you to knit one more row &quot;before&quot; cast off (?). Depending on the pattern and garment style, of course, but I would err on the side of caution, and try doing a count of the rows you have for the arm and where it attaches, or the number of stitches called for at the circumference before joining. Also, look for a specified number of rows in earlier directions in the pattern, if there are several size options to choose from before starting, etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps, and doesn't give you more confusion. The beauty of knitting, unless the pattern is very advanced and intricate, is the ability to adapt in what you know and are comfortable with. It will still look fabulous. There is so much room for originality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6356" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T21:30:03.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5623" CreationDate="2018-11-20T09:10:14.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best choice would be to have the image painted first (on primed canvas, or whatever it takes), scan it/take a high quiality photograph of it, and have it printed onto the panel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have personally never worked with acoustic panels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are breathable materials you can paint/draw with (like ink, watercolours).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find what material is used for acoustic panels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is a possibility of the painting materials affecting the quality of the sound absorption of the panel regardless of them being breathable. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apparently professionals print onto the panels, so it is know that this won't affect the quality of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Having the image painted first by all the necessary means will also, most likely, give you a better result imagewise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T09:10:14.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-20T12:20:46.123" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier this summer, I drew a portrait of a girl that I liked. It was a good drawing, but I cheated. I basically traced the important parts and carefully overlayed the photo for shading. I never actually showed the drawing to anyone because I felt so guilty. I promised myself I’d never fake a drawing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, after that I took up drawing and started really working to improve. I’ve been drawing on and off for the past couple months, but I didn’t really start drawing every day until this past month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, I draw from a reference photo. My reference photo drawings turn out much better than just a standard freehand drawing. But when I do a freehand drawing of a woman (A drawing without a reference photo) my drawing looks terrible. The woman doesn’t look very feminine. She doesn’t even look pretty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my freehand drawing I did yesterday:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zNI9K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zNI9K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A drawing of a woman from a reference photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fs44s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fs44s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second image, the woman acually looks pretty. The first woman just looks weird. I’m struggling to figure out the differences between masculine and feminine features to make my female drawings look better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to improve? Ive searched all over looking for courses or guides to help myself improve, but there aren’t any that are free. Andrew loomis’ book says that women have larger eyes and lips, but that clearly didn’t turn out very well. Professional opinions and feedback are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6359" LastEditorUserId="6359" LastEditDate="2018-11-20T12:29:16.673" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T10:50:18.937" Title="The differences between masculine and feminine features to improve my portraits" Tags="|pencils|pencil-shading|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5639" CreationDate="2018-11-20T20:19:29.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no professional artist and don't draw any portraits, but I hope to offer you some insights free of prejudice and textbook mantras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The woman on top doesn't look weird, masculine or ugly, she is just shaded unnaturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Light source&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every highlight and shadow depends on where your main source of light is positioned. In the lower drawing the woman is looking into the direction of the light source. In the upper drawing it's not clear where the light is comming from. Maybe to the left? Maybe in the direction of the viewer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shadows&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The direct consequence of light is a shadow. In the lower drawing, the jawline casts a shadow onto the neck and the hair casts a shadow onto the jaw. Where both shadows combine it's darker than in other places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's first concentrate on the &lt;strong&gt;left side&lt;/strong&gt; of the upper drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Her hair surrounding her forehead casts a shadow on her face but doesn't cast a shadow on her neck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hair in general looks quite natural with a flow of lighter and darker areas &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The subtle highlights of her cheekbones and chin look very natural, too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nose casts a shadow to both sides (but I know how f#ing difficult it is to draw a nose).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now have a look at the &lt;strong&gt;right side&lt;/strong&gt; of the upper drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most highlights indicate that the source of light should be in the upper left corner. The peak of her head should cast a shadow onto the hair on the right side, but there's a highlight instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Her right eye is brighter than the left one, as if the light shines from the right instead. BUT apart from that, the right eye is a perfect example of how it should look like with light comming from the left. You start with more details (more depth) on the left corner and let it fade into a smoth shadow to the right. Might be unintentional but looks perfect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cheekbone is again highlighted in a very natural way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the jaw and neck light and shadows are reversed. The hair that is (probably) flowing over these areas is darker than the skin below. The perception of depth is absolutely destroyed and the hair looks flat or misplaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Anatomy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find any major flaw in anatomy in any picture. Maybe the ear on the upper picture is a little bit too high, but it's unmistakably a human ear. The round jaw and plush lips look very feminine and the proportions of the face looks about right. Good work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T20:19:29.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5643" CreationDate="2018-11-20T21:44:58.467" Score="4" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of the type of spring used for trinkets that are retractable? Like a measuring tape or those key rings that will retract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6363" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2022-03-28T07:28:08.367" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T07:28:08.367" Title="Name for a retractable spring" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3688" CreationDate="2018-11-20T23:03:33.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider printing on thin translucent film and die-cut the stickers that can then be transferred to the SD card. This will completely avoid the need to mask the contacts. This occurred to me because I have been working with Epson TM-C7500 label printer that is full color and has pretty high resolution. However, any ink-jet or even color laser can be used with suitable film stock. There are printable films with adhesive backing. Simple die-cutting machines are in price range of desktop printer but I have never used one. Here is one example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01GSOMVRG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cricut Explore Air 2 Mint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your SD card is made of black plastic but you want it to be pink all over, then it may be more cost effective to obtain pink cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4569" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T23:03:33.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2018-11-21T00:52:51.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search for &quot;tape measure spring&quot; resulted in a list of various products, but also included the term &quot;recoil spring.&quot; Changing the search term to &quot;recoil spring&quot; really threw a wrench in the works, however, as some of the returns presented items related to gun-type weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More appropriate to the question is that recoil spring also appears when dealing with pull-start engine mechanisms. As with a tape measure, extending the spring loaded portion (starter rope, tape measure, etc.) causes the recoil spring to tighten up, providing the retraction force in the expected and desired manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T00:52:51.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5639" CreationDate="2018-11-21T10:50:18.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stereotypical masculine features include an overall more rigid structure, larger bones (especially jawbone), more distinct jaw and neck muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stereotypical feminine features include an overall softer structure, higher eyebraws, smaller jawbone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this is an oversimplification; in reality stereotypical masculine and feminine features are more often than not intermixed (without depriving the person of their masculinity or femininity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you may be asking the wrong question here. Perhaps what you need to look at are actually different features, generally speaking (different mouth shapes, nose shapes, face shapes etc) and how these relate to the overall shape. Plastic and constructive anatomy books may be helpful in relation to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I see nothing particularly wrong with the woman on the first drawing. The reason why you may think she looks weird could be because it is a full-face image and these often look somewhat odd by themselves -  compare selfies to passport photos, to see what I mean).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6368" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T10:50:18.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2700" CreationDate="2018-11-21T10:52:44.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get my ultracal from Formx. They have a .nl website and a .eu website. I find the price acceptable but I don't have a reference what you are used to paying for it in the US. Obviously, in the EU the imported stuff is more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I learned is that Ultracal is not just gypsum or plaster of paris as it seems to be called, but a mix of gypsum, portland cement and a third component that I forgot about. Google for it and you shall find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for just gypsum, most of your run of the mill home improvement shops in the EU will offer gypsum from Knauff. The two main types are &quot;Redband&quot; and &quot;Goldband&quot;. I think the Goldband is the less lumpier one, more usable for casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6369" LastActivityDate="2018-11-21T10:52:44.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5647" CreationDate="2018-11-21T11:45:43.877" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;My younger brother spoiled my laptop with pens. On removing the stains I got marks on the surface of the laptop which make it look dirty. Are spray paints effective for painting laptops or is there any other way to deal with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T13:35:31.447" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T01:53:56.027" Title="Are spray paints effective on laptops?" Tags="|material-selection|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2018-11-21T12:38:04.260" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, spray paints can get into the cooling system through the vents, blocking air flow and gumming up moving parts.  Some spray paints may even conduct electricity  after drying which can short out (seriously damage/destroy) your laptop's electrical components.  The only &quot;safe&quot; way to use spray paint on any electrical device is to unplug (remove battery) and dismantle it, removing the electronic components from the outer shell.  Then paint just the outer shell in a non-conductive paint before reassembling the device.  Since laptops use lots of springs and pressure fitted parts, the dismantling process itself is another great way to destroy a laptop, so don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to search amazon to see if there are any &quot;laptop skins&quot; specifically made for your model laptop.  These are vinyl stickers which exactly fit the contours of your laptop, leaving all of the vents uncovered and functional.  They come in a variety of imagery and textures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could create a jewelry cleaning kit &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3571/how-do-i-get-the-barrel-of-my-fountain-pen-when-its-stuck-from-dried-ink/3576#3576&quot;&gt;as I described in this answer&lt;/a&gt; and use it on the remaining stains.  You might get lucky and return your laptop to its original appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T01:53:56.027" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T01:53:56.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5653" CreationDate="2018-11-22T12:08:03.220" Score="1" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw one of my class fellows creating beautiful origami art work with paper. I was quite amazed, so I would like to learn origami art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you provide resources or recommendations on how to learn origami art immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6379" LastEditorUserId="426" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T12:52:27.590" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T00:25:24.327" Title="Best resources to learn origami art immediately?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-12-21T20:35:32.693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5648" CreationDate="2018-11-22T15:51:33.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you want to make, YouTube is the best place to start as you can follow along with the YouTuber, I found it useful when I had a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6342" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T15:51:33.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5753" CreationDate="2018-11-23T02:27:00.220" Score="6" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to wood carving, and have bought my first two tools, both Beaver Craft whittling knives. I've seen a couple videos on YouTube of a man doing tutorials and it looks like his knife, without too much pressure, goes very deep into the wood. I cannot do this with the Alder wood I've got, and after whittling for quite a while, my knife does seem a bit duller than it was. Is Alder too hard a wood to be using a good knife on? I see people say that you want a harder wood to keep a good longevity on the product, but i don't want to ruin my knives either. Thanks in advance for your wisdom!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6381" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T15:21:12.283" Title="Is alder wood too hard to whittle?" Tags="|woodworking|wood-carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5648" CreationDate="2018-11-23T08:57:44.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Art and craft stores usually have some books to sell. There are books specialized on origami animals or flowers or similar topics and books with a general theme and a mix of different origami figures. Usually you can buy origami paper in these stores as well, so you don't have to cut &quot;regular&quot; paper to the right size before folding origami. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bone_folder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bone folder&lt;/a&gt; is another very usefull tool you can find at art stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no art store around where you live, go to a regular book store and look for the hobby and arts department. If all else fails, go to your favorite online book store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have a look at the books to see if you understand the instructions. Most instructions are well-suited for beginners, but some might be hard to understand. One or two books should be enough for a lot of origami fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YouTube is the next best source of instructions with the added benefit of seeing how the paper is folded instead of reading and understanding instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different websites dedicated to origami and most offer some instructions for free and more advanced instructions for money only. Google for &quot;origami instructions&quot; and have a look at different sites (I can't really help you with this selection. It's best to try out different sites by yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage is that you can save bookmarks to your favorite sites or print instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T08:57:44.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2018-11-23T10:25:46.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers have started reacting to their customers requests and produce some clays that can be cured in a microwave. It must be written on the packaging and there must be an instruction of how to cure it in the microwave. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions I saw included:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The clay object must have a minimum thickness of several millimeters. You cannot cure thin sheets or delicate objects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always place a small bowl or cup of plain water with the clay object into the microwave. This prevents overheating of the microwave.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't place the clay object directly in the middle of the microwave plate. This prevents overheating of the clay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set your microwave to the power setting given in the instructions. If you cannot lower the power setting, chances are high that the clay burns faster than you can stop the microwave.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that burning polymer clay releases toxic fumes. I wouldn't want that in a microwave that I wanted to use for food afterwards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T10:25:46.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5648" CreationDate="2018-11-23T14:44:24.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with all crafts and arts, you can not expect to make beautiful items when you just start. You will have to start with the simple models and big sheets of paper. &#xA;Once you have some experience, you will go up to more difficult patterns and smaller paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you take to it, it might take days or weeks, but origami can be done beautiful with little experience when you work precise and with good paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a good book or a good website, cheap paper for your first few tries but nice paper for as soon as you are happy you can do the model. Depending on how you learn best, still pictures with how to fold, as in the books, or videos with fold along instructions will work. If you go for one style, try to get a site or person who has done more than just one or two, as while you are learning, following the same kind of instructions is often helpful. On the other hand, if you do not understand the instructions, other instructions for the same item may well help you.&#xA;Some websites, (I have no connection with any, I learned my folding from age 4, well before internet was invented.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.origami-instructions.com/simple-origami.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beginners as well as more advanced.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.origami-fun.com/origami-instructions.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Not as easy but clear indication which models are not starter ones.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can say that all sites that make you fold a crane as first item are over ambitious.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am out of the books, as the last one I purchased was 20 years back or so, but I know that if you go to a good bookshop, they should stock some. Look and read, buy a kid book if you can understand what the pictures instruct. You can go on to adult books after you have learned the basics.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many youtube channels and individual videos dedicated to origami. Again I would suggest to start with instructions aimed at children.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the boxes or packages with nice paper seem quite expensive, you will find that one pack will last quite a few models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to make bigger results of small and relatively simple origami is to put them together and make scenes, birthday cards or pictures. Or to go modular, where you make the same piece over and over and put them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you dream of big and intricate figures you will need to keep improving on what you have learned, using bigger and more difficult models. But do start with baby steps, and keep improving step by step. If you try to go too difficult before you have the basics, you may give up well before you are good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2018-11-23T14:55:12.323" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T14:55:12.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5663" CreationDate="2018-11-24T01:09:44.000" Score="2" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tripod that has carbon fiber tubes.  There is a metal end piece on the center tube that has fallen out.  What kind of glue/adhesive should I use to reattach it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPXM0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPXM0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken tripod tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="877" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T10:55:21.243" Title="What adhesive should I use for Carbon Fiber and Painted metal?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5658" CreationDate="2018-11-24T10:36:12.997" Score="3" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to design, my white T-shirt for my up coming university party. But I want to have permanent designing on it. So what is the best method I can use to get a permanent design. I have already  selected the design just wanted to know how can i make it permanent so that i don't have to over do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6379" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T10:24:30.910" Title="How to make permanent design on my plain white T-shirt?" Tags="|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5656" CreationDate="2018-11-25T10:24:30.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are happy to hand draw, you can get permanent markers specially made for fabrics, which will stay in even if washed often. These also come in many colours and in several surface structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less fancy but often nearer at hand, normal permanent markers, like sharpies. These will fade a bit with washing but mostly good for several to many wash cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not want to hand draw, the easiest option is to print or have printed on iron on sheets. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Iron-on-Transfers-for-T-Shirts-Tote-Bags-and-Oth/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This website has instructions&lt;/a&gt;, which include one brand of sheets. (I am not connected to the website and have never used this method and as such do not know which sheets and which printers would be best to use.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The commercial alternative is a T-printing service, often they start with very small numbers but the price goes down when you get more printed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More permanent, harder to do yourself and more expensive to have it done:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Embroidery.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mostly machine embroidery which is done from computer pictures. But you can hand do it with enough patience (and a lot of trial and error.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can do hand embroidery as well and I am sure that this stack exchange site has questions about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T10:24:30.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3891" CreationDate="2018-11-25T11:20:08.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nylon is a type of plastic.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Most cheap painting brushes are made of nylon. They can withstand the solvents used in the oil painting process.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since nylon is a family of compounds with different properties, and the paint tray you mention is marketed as such, you can be sure its resistance, durability, and breathability are all within the characteristics of what one can expect from it. It should be as easy to clean as any other plastic trays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-07T21:30:56.240" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T21:30:56.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-25T23:53:18.137" Score="1" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ei5IV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ei5IV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bought this blade, and I want to make a handle for it. the handle should be easy to make, and easy to maintain, and I also need to make sure it doesn't get in the way of the sheath.#&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering these materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Wood - Taking a piece of wood would take some time, judging my skills it might turn out ugly and you need to oil and maintain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Paracord - I think it'll look silly, feel weird and wear over time, for a cord I can just tie a paracord to the hole in the end anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Leather - that could work but I have no clue on how to approach this tang with leather straps, most videos I've seen show a thin tang with sheets of leather stacked on top of each other then shaped into form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which of these would be best for an easy to make knife handle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measurements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall Length : 18.3CM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blade Length : 8.3CM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handle Length : 10CM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6389" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T10:43:42.667" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T04:36:34.653" Title="Materials for an easy to make knife handle?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-27T06:48:15.543" Score="2" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have many jewelry sets in white, is it possible to color in my jewelry using nail polish - is nail polish effective on jewelry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6364" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T09:07:07.433" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T09:07:07.433" Title="Can nail polish be used on jewelry?" Tags="|painting|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5661" CreationDate="2018-11-27T09:29:11.670" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When considering the compatibilty of coating materials, the intended use (jewellery) is less important than the base material.  Nail polish/paint sticks well to some materials and not others. Without knowing what your &quot;white&quot; jewellery is made of, we can't tell you whether it wil stick well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really designed to be permanent, so I would advise against it for pieces that are meant to last.  For temporary modifications it could be excellent, with caveats. Although it will chip fairly easily, there will be some bits left. Getting the last traces off is easy on metal/glass/stone materials (using acetone), but if there's any plastic or glue the acetone (nail polish remover) is likely to damage that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T09:29:11.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5655" CreationDate="2018-11-27T10:55:21.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend two-part epoxy resin, and the addition of a pin. Basically you would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pre-drill a hole through the tube and the cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mix the resin &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply resin to both the inside of the tube and the cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;join the two pieces with a nut and bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&#xA;Looking at your pic again, I see that there is a place for a screw to lock in the cap. Maybe take it to a hardware store and figure out if it’s an M4 or M6 and use the screw instead of drilling again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T10:55:21.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5660" CreationDate="2018-11-27T14:30:22.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Paracord&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Chris H points out, this knife has a skeleton handle rather than a normal tang, and it's really intended to be used either as is, or with a paracord wrap rather than anything more solid - for more on that, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Wrap-Paracord-Around-a-Knife-Handle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is an article showing a couple of ways you can do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering your other options, if you really need to cover it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wood&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;  make a wood handle for this knife, in much the same way as you make handles for knives with full (rather than stick or enclosed) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brokebladesmith.com/blog/2016/1/15/tang-types&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tangs&lt;/a&gt;. You'll probably want to fill the void in the centre of the knife, and match the chamfer of the edge, so it will be more involved than making a handle for a full tang knife, but still very much doable (depending on your skills). I'd note that you can varnish wood to maintain it, so oiling isn't strictly necessary, it's merely one way of finishing the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Leather&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stacked leather handle (as you've mentioned in your question) isn't really possible here as the technique relies on having a fairly large area of leather around the tang, which you don't have. You could make a wrapped leather handle, in which you cut a piece of leather to fit around the handle and sew it on over the solid foundation (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Wrap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article shows the technique, albeit on an axe haft rather than a knife handle), or you could even use leather thonging in the same manner as the paracord wrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Comparing the three&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paracord wrap is by far the easiest of the three methods; the other two methods require tools, more expensive materials and a fair bit of specialist knowledge; while the paracord only needs a length of easily (and cheaply) available paracord and a bit of time to follow instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-11-29T09:52:32.463" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T09:52:32.463" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-27T21:00:10.473" Score="1" ViewCount="4054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to mount a photo to a clear acrylic sheet. The way I am planning to do that is by first gluing the photo to a thick paper sheet, and then gluing the thick paper sheet (e.g. 250 gsm) to the back of the acrylic sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options to glue the thick paper sheet to the acrylic sheet such that the whole thing has a professional look (not a kids project look :) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6393" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T17:11:38.313" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T18:00:55.187" Title="Options for gluing thick paper to acrylic sheet" Tags="|adhesives|paper|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-28T12:53:53.530" Score="2" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;My goal is to craft a &quot;golden&quot; walnut by painting two empty shell halves and then glue them together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my requirements on the paint are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;color will be golden if this matters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;should not smear off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;should not hide surface nuances&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;somewhat water proof, but not expected to be put into water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I'm going to glue the shell's halves together. The glue must be reliable and yet allow though to easily open the shell (one time is enough, but if you could stick the halves again, that would be awesome).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5989" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T13:17:55.023" Title="Which paint and glue to use for a golden walnut?" Tags="|adhesives|paint|wood|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5667" CreationDate="2018-11-28T14:58:47.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;gold coloured oil paint&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply with a small paintbrush, dilute with (a mixture of oil and) a solvent like turpentine to increase the paint's thinness, so it will more easily crawl into the crevices and other details of the walnut.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the kind the glue might solve the paint a little, so just apply it carefully with a brush.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once dried, it should be able to withstand water. &lt;br&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As an alternative you can use acrylic paint&lt;/strong&gt;, but that's both thicker (resulting in a greater loss of detail) and less resistant to water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Simple &lt;strong&gt;wood glue&lt;/strong&gt; would suffice for glueing the two parts together. I suggest glueing the walnut first before applying paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2018-11-28T15:08:09.213" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T15:08:09.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-28T15:15:11.327" Score="4" ViewCount="1031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am painting a Venetian Mask using Prismacolor Premier colored pencils on Strathmore Bristol vellum paper. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;Parts of the mask and costume in my subject photo have glittery gold on them. &lt;br&gt;I am able to create the flat gold colours but not the glitter areas. The areas are small (but distinct) so it is hard to put dots of colour to make it look glittery. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;Any suggestions?&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have added the photo, the glitter is in the hat, in the red and in the blue areas:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ewgq4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user6395" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T13:35:28.900" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T13:35:28.900" Title="How to create a glitter gold effect with colored pencil" Tags="|colored-pencils|pencils|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2018-11-28T17:06:45.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To prevent warping, you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Dry-Mount-a-Print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;dry mount&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, or use high-quality &lt;strong&gt;double sided adhesive sheets&lt;/strong&gt;. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;Cut the sheets to size beforehand (leaving, if desired, a small border of a couple of millimeters around the sheet to prevent it from sticking out from underneath), place the sheet onto the photo carefully, applying pressure from the center outwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T17:06:45.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-28T17:22:43.090" Score="2" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have different nail paint colors, but I don't have skin or golden. Is it possible to make these colors by using two or more different nail paints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6364" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2018-11-29T12:17:44.957" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T09:40:51.460" Title="How to make a skin or golden color in nail paint?" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5671" CreationDate="2018-11-28T18:14:38.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skin color&lt;/strong&gt; can be mixed if you have white, red, and yellow nail polish. Provided these colours have equal opacity and color strength, you can get a good idea of what the proportions should be &lt;a href=&quot;https://trycolors.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a &lt;strong&gt;gold coloured mixture&lt;/strong&gt; the process is the same, unless you need it to have the luster that is characteristic of gold. If you have silver or another metallic nail polish with such a specular effect, you could try adding yellow to it.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Another option is to combine several yellow hues. Looking at this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSVwU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSVwU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Gold#/media/File:Stringer156_nugget.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily distinct three different hues (by eye, or using photoshop or a similar image editing tool), that can be mixed with the same three colours you would use to create the skin colour.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Uploading the image to an online colour palette creation tool, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://coolors.co/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;coolors.co&lt;/a&gt;, you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://coolors.co/fefddd-c8a54e-c09a36-93742c-724400&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extract the colors&lt;/a&gt; quicker and easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-07T09:40:51.460" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T09:40:51.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-11-29T20:55:53.197" Score="6" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was working in my basement studio and a piece of acrylic punctured a red Krylon outdoor paint spray can which exploded onto the unfinished concrete floor, concrete walls, metal cabinets, and wooden backsplash. I am renting and thus need to clean the spray paint and have read that I can use turpentine or rubbing alcohol to remove the paint. What would be the best to use given the items I have to clean (concrete, wood, and metal)? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6283" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T03:42:26.807" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T15:09:02.293" Title="How to get spray paint off of concrete, wood, and metal" Tags="|paint|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5671" CreationDate="2018-11-29T22:00:36.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phrase &quot;skin colour&quot; is a bit ambiguous, but mixing all three primary colours or any two complimentary (particularly orange &amp;amp; blue) gives you a great brown that can be lightened with white if necessary. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Create-Realistic-Flesh-Tones&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a WikiHow about it.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gold would be really hard, because you want it to reflect light. If your starting colours aren't reflective, it'll never look how you want. If you want to invest in one gold polish, my favourite is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.essie.ca/effects/mirror-metallics/good-as-gold.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Essie's Good As Gold.&lt;/a&gt; It's super shiny, not too streaky and catches the light realistically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be cautious mixing two types of nail polish at all though! I've tried it before and ended up with a goopy mess that never really dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T22:00:36.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5669" CreationDate="2018-11-29T22:15:31.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phrase my first painting teacher used the most was &quot;Contrast in Value-!&quot; The best way to make anything look realistic is to pay attention to the lights and darks, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://alvalyn.com/fundamentals-of-value-contrast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;value&quot;&lt;/a&gt; of the colours. I recommend unfocusing your eyes to take in the general sense of contrast- how much of that &quot;glitter&quot; really stands out? Can you convey what you want without it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the key thing would be leaving areas bright white to imply the reflected light. How far along is the drawing? Assuming your paper is white, you could draw teeny tiny circles for the glittery flecks, but only fill in your colour around them so they stay white and look &quot;shiny.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T22:15:31.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5355" CreationDate="2018-12-01T23:02:25.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you will have to age the alloy first, and clean the higher areas afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tarnishing, you can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47169&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Palmolive&lt;/a&gt;, or any kind of washing liquid that has sulphates in it.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Another, more aggressive option, but only viable for solid, thick brass objects, is to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/instant-patina-for-brass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ammonia&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;The most traditional choice, however, would be to &lt;strong&gt;use a mixture of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcM79XGzs2Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;salt and vinegar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, you can leave the brass object in the liquid for an extended period of time, or rub it in with a piece of cloth, which will give you more control.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;After the tarnishing, you can use either &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mnn.com/your-home/at-home/stories/how-to-clean-brass-naturally&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ketchup, a mixture of vinegar, salt and flour, lemon juice, or soap,&lt;/a&gt; to brighten the brass again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T23:02:25.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2018-12-02T02:45:13.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget turpentine and rubbing alcohol. Whatever you do, you will have to refinish some of the surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For everything other than the concrete you should be ok with acetone. Use steel wool soaked in acetone to break the gloss of the solid areas of paint (being careful not to scratch the metal and to go with the grain of the wood) and then lots of acetone and clean rags. If the rag isn’t wet anymore, dip it in acetone again. Repeat. Wear chemical resistant gloves and a vapor rated gas mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the concrete: once the paint has cured (24 hours) try to chip it off with a chisel. Use a wire brush as last resort. If you use acetone, you will actually make it worse. Once you’re done, consider renting a floor buffer and use tinted floor wax to refinish the floor. For the walls do a similar preparation and then paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dispose of the rags by bringing immediately to a hazardous waste treatment facility or burning in a safe and controlled environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT KEEP THE RAGS INSIDE THE BUILDING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I found this solvent description:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=KRI&amp;amp;doctype=PDS&amp;amp;prodno=075577025497&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=KRI&amp;amp;doctype=PDS&amp;amp;prodno=075577025497&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end up getting your hands on xylol or toluene - use excessive caution, as the fumes are carcinogenic and the fluid is caustic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="2835" LastEditDate="2018-12-02T15:09:02.293" LastActivityDate="2018-12-02T15:09:02.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5683" CreationDate="2018-12-02T08:52:20.287" Score="4" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can we transform the glass in the desired shape or size. If we want to cut a glass which instrument should we use on domestic level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T22:08:23.417" Title="How can we cut mirror or glass in a desired shape?" Tags="|material-selection|glass|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5681" CreationDate="2018-12-03T09:13:41.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what sort of shape you're thinking of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A convex polygon can be done with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQaLV35HQEU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;scribe and snap method&lt;/a&gt; used for rectangles. This uses a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Heavy-Diamond-Glass-Cutter/dp/B01C543F8W/ref=lp_1938876031_1_4_sspa?s=diy&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1543828603&amp;amp;sr=1-4-spons&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wheel glass cutter&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/KUNSE-Diamond-Carbide-Engraving-Lettering/dp/B07DVTMHXF/ref=sr_1_6?s=diy&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1543828643&amp;amp;sr=1-6&amp;amp;keywords=diamond+scriber%23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diamond scriber&lt;/a&gt; You should be all right up to an octagon at least, before the angles between the sides are too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Circles and large holes require a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wholesaleglasscompany.co.uk/acatalog/Glass-Circle-Cutters.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;special tool&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small holes can be drilled and notches etc. can be cut using abrasive (diamond/silicon carbide/aluminium oxide) tools, usually wet, and usually slowly. These can be motorised (e.g. a Dremel or a drill) but hand tools are also available.  I've used a precision diamond saw to cut internal corners; this could probably be done using a cutoff wheel on a rotary tool.  Abrasives are also useful for rounding off corners and removing sharp edges (normal wet/dry SiC paper, a tile file, or a knife-sharpening stone)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaker-grozier_pliers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grozing pliers&lt;/a&gt; combined with scoring are used for tricky shapes, but I'm told there's an art to using them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: links are to examples so you know what I'm talking about.  I'm not recommending specific products or suppliers. In fact a local hardware shop should have the wheel glass cutter and abrasive drill bits/Dremel accessories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2018-12-03T22:08:23.417" LastActivityDate="2018-12-03T22:08:23.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5691" CreationDate="2018-12-03T15:02:27.700" Score="5" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of glass bottles and jars. I want to convert them into new items of different styles and shapes. Can a glass object be molded into a new shape by melting? If yes, then how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2018-12-09T17:21:01.263" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T22:19:12.483" Title="Is it possible to recycle the glass bottles and jar in desired shape and size by melting?" Tags="|material-selection|glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-03T22:39:38.377" Score="4" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;For years I've been looking for a low cost, reliable source for 1/2&quot; thick acrylic (plastic/plexiglass/Plexiglas(R)) sheets in various colors and sizes. The only things I can find are clear/non-reflective, black/smoke, and sometimes white. I'm looking for a whole rainbow of colors (at least 6-10 distinct colors) for my Etsy store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at TAP Plastics, eStreetPlastics.com, ePlastics.com, InterstatePlastics.com, and lots of other places, but the thickest I can find is 1/4&quot; in the sizes I can use. Some places only sell colored 1/2&quot; acrylic in 48&quot; x 96&quot; sheets, which costs several hundreds of dollars. I need pieces as small as 6&quot; x 12&quot;, up to maybe 24&quot; square, shipped to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking for polycarbonate, vinyl, PVC, etc., since I'll be laser cutting these into checkers and backgammon pieces, with an etch on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried stacking multiple pieces of thinner materials on top of each other with varying success.  Unfortunately, the quality I've gotten with stacking hasn't been reliable or good enough for some of my more discerning customers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had better success stacking dis-similar colors than I have with the same colors, specifically because you can still (faintly) see a seam in the like colors.  I can make an Othello/reversi chip that looks amazing, just not a solid color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to a 90 watt CO2 laser cutter, which should do a decent job on the edge without having to do more edge surfacing.  I used a 100 watt laser to get excellent edges on this thick of material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried dying the acrylic, with no success and no consistency.  What little I've been able to do was time consuming, messy, and not at all what my customer or I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These sheets also need to be paper backed or have some sort of protecting film still attached, to prevent scratches.  I will be shipping the end result to my customers.  I have found that peeling the protection away before laser cutting works best on this thick of material, but I need it for scratch prevention before my use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can find what I'm looking for?  I'm willing to buy/take cut-offs/scraps from another company that uses this thick of acrylic in their manufacturing process, as long as the scraps are in decent condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!  Also, let me know if this is off topic and where I can move this question to, if there's a better SO site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastEditorUserId="6228" LastEditDate="2018-12-04T00:55:20.140" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T06:32:58.080" Title="Where can I find 1/2&quot; thick colored acrylic?" Tags="|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5685" CreationDate="2018-12-04T04:34:08.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless your customers require personalization of the game pieces, you might want to consider going to a mixed medium approach to your production.  Prototype your products with the laser cutter using an opaque laser safe high-density foam or any other laser safe media which comes in your desired thickness.  Then once your prototypes possess the desired shape/size, make a silicon mold of them and then cast them in clear resin.  That will free you from your height limitations and seriously cut down on your material costs, while still producing a transparent product of acrylic hardness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By adding a vacuum chamber to your resin casting process, you can eliminate the embedded air bubbles which often diminish the appeal of cast products.  When fully degassed, clear resins can produce crystal clear transparency, totally free of embedded imperfections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best part is that you can mix powdered dies into your liquid resin, allowing for a full rainbow colors and shades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T04:34:08.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2018-12-06T13:18:52.647" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just take a lighter and slightly burn the area that was broken in half or cut and it will no longer shed. Be careful as it will burn and may drip on your skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6429" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2018-12-08T19:43:31.680" LastActivityDate="2018-12-08T19:43:31.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5684" CreationDate="2018-12-06T18:05:42.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, The general term is 'bottle slumping'.  There are several &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/annacarle/slumped-glass-bottles/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;images on pinterest&lt;/a&gt;.  The glass is heated to the point that it can be shaped.  Current trends are to use a Kiln, with temperatures between 500F and 1500F &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have memories from local carnivals in the 1960s and 1970 of the bottles being heated in a liquid, shaped and given as prizes or sold. I had a coke bottle for several years that was obtained from the carnival. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6431" LastEditorUserId="6431" LastEditDate="2018-12-06T19:08:24.990" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T19:08:24.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5695" CreationDate="2018-12-06T22:03:00.827" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible make letter capsules in wood or fabric? I just ordered some plastic versions of this item from amazon.com and was just wondering if it was a possible to make them myself.￼&#xA;These are basically pill shaped items to contain small letters to give to people you care about.&#xA;If it’s possible to make these then I figured that it would make great Christmas/birthday gifts!&#xA;￼&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastEditorUserId="6118" LastEditDate="2018-12-07T13:30:43.233" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T14:03:18.193" Title="Capsule making?" Tags="|woodworking|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5694" CreationDate="2018-12-06T22:38:36.273" Score="0" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sRsDS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sRsDS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a cork tree!&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this:regarding this item could it possible to make it out of other solid materials?&#xA;Theriatically it should be possible to do it with other materials, I just wanted to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T13:48:03.393" Title="A cork tree made of other materials?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2018-12-07T13:48:03.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any reason why a cork tree couldn't be created using other materials.  Wooden dowels, cut in one inch sections could be hot melt glued together for a similar effect.  The same could be done with cross sections cut from small tree branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a larger scale, you could assemble a similar tree from empty aluminum cans or water bottles.  In both of those cases, you would want to align the containers upside down relative to the front of the artwork so that decorations can be added to their comparatively featureless bottom sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, you could scale this up to paint cans, barrels or any grouping of cylindrical objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T13:48:03.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5692" CreationDate="2018-12-07T14:03:18.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Write out your messages on paper and then cut it out.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll it up into a scroll.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the height of the scroll and add about 3/4 of an inch to determine the length of drinking straw that you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a drinking straw to that length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light a candle and after it has burned for a minute or two, dump some of the liquid wax onto a heat resistant surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before the wax solidifies, stick one end of the cut straw into it so that the hardening wax fills and corks one end of the straw.  Clean off any excess wax from the exterior of the straw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the scroll into the open end of the straw then tie it closed with some thread or thin ribbon using a slip knot or bow for ready reopening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint or decorate your finished capsule&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T14:03:18.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5704" CreationDate="2018-12-08T18:20:52.040" Score="8" ViewCount="1376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a rotary tool (aka Dremel) with a collet like this one (aka quick change collet):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HscjC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HscjC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;collet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You insert the shaft of an accessoir like a drill or diamond bit and tighten the collet nut to hold the accessoir in place. The accessoir is supposed to be centered automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use it to engrave a rather delicate ornament into glass. During my first tries with this tool I noticed that the diamond bit often isn't centered in the collet and creates a very wide line with chipped edges instead of the fine lines it should produce. When I start the tool I can actually see how the tip of the bit isn't centered (it looks like a double image):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MtBfY.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MtBfY.png&quot; alt=&quot;diamond bit in rest and rotating&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I notice this, I have to stop the tool, loosen the collet nut and wiggle the diamond bit around in the hopes of centering it by chance, then start the tool again and see if I was successfull. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I insert a bit into the collet straight on the first try?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bought high quality bits, so I assume they are straight. I always use the collet that is just big enough to insert the bits and always push the shaft all the way in. Since I get it right sometimes, I assume the machine itself is not to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T02:38:04.693" Title="Rotary tool: How to insert bits into collet straight?" Tags="|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-08T20:23:20.810" Score="2" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to assemble a &lt;a href=&quot;https://ugears.online/collections/ugears_mechanical_models/products/clock-timer-unique-glue-free-eco-friendly-wooden-mechanical-self-assembly-moving-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;model chronograph&lt;/a&gt;. At several steps, the instructions say to insert wooden cocktail sticks (toothpicks) through narrow holes in wheels. Unfortunately, the supplied toothpicks refuse to go through. They go part way in, then get stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ugears.online/pages/model-assembly-tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer's instructions&lt;/a&gt; I've tried lubricating the cocktail sticks with candle wax (unburnt candle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried lubricating the sticks with sewing machine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've even tried a different batch of toothpicks from the supermarket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still the sticks get stuck part way through the wheel. If I push any harder, they just break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6440" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T18:09:11.637" Title="How to lubricate toothpicks for model building?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5697" CreationDate="2018-12-10T19:07:31.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;it seems that you are inserting the bit in correctly, it just seems like it's not going in straight some of the times. Besides being careful when inserting the bit, I'm not sure how else to guarantee the bit is set straight without some additional tests. If you want to make sure the bit is in correctly without damaging your ornament, after you insert the bit give it a quick test on a scrap piece of material to ensure that the bit is straight. Or, if you can see that double-image effect, before engraving into your ornament just run the Dremmel tool and examine the rotation of the bit to see if you get the double-image, at which point reset the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6283" LastActivityDate="2018-12-10T19:07:31.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5701" CreationDate="2018-12-11T14:07:30.933" Score="1" ViewCount="4098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to recreate a permanent bracelet at home for my girlfriend. I'm an engineer and can solder electronics. Would this be possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vogue.com/article/catbird-welding-annex-permanent-jewelry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.vogue.com/article/catbird-welding-annex-permanent-jewelry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6444" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T10:33:00.280" Title="Permanent Bracelet At Home" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5700" CreationDate="2018-12-11T15:50:18.467" Score="9" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Possible? Probably&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an a soldering iron and some fine wire, you can make a semi permanent bracelet - I say semi permanent rather than permanent because the kind of soldering you do on electronics isn't really designed for mechanical strength, and unless you buy some form of welder (the article you linked mentions arc welders) I'd expect the soldered joint to break before too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Advisable? No&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know what else is semi permanent? &lt;strong&gt;Scarring.&lt;/strong&gt; Be very careful before putting a soldering iron anywhere near someone else's wrist, because if you're not then they will probably end up with a different kind of permanent marking than intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Alternatives&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of welding the bracelet closed, if you're using something with links then you can just close the loop on a normal link instead of a catch using a pair of pliers. This would be just about as strong as welding it (because the other links in the chain won't be welded either), but avoid the need for extreme heat or expensive tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still concerned about the strength of the link, you can apply a little bit of glue to it to make sure it says closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-12-15T10:33:00.280" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T10:33:00.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5698" CreationDate="2018-12-11T18:09:11.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try bar soap or silicone spray. Soap is definitely slipperier than wax and you likely have some on hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone spray is super slick and useful in lots of situations. It will stay slippery longer than the soap which may be a problem if the pin is supposed to stay put once its in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a bit of sanding with fine grit sandpaper would help as well, corrects oversized pin and smooths the surface for less friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T18:09:11.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5697" CreationDate="2018-12-11T18:37:32.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With such a wide range of collets... are you sure you have the right one for the bit? With the right match it shouldn't be possible to tighten it fully with the bit off center. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be the bit itself is bent slightly... try rolling it by itself on a hard flat surface to check if it is true. It should roll evenly without any wiggle or bumping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T18:37:32.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5697" CreationDate="2018-12-11T19:48:34.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm embarrassed to not have noticed it sooner, but I found the reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was pushing the shafts of the accessoirs in until I felt them touching a hard surface, but it was not the exact center of the back of the receiving sleeve. From what I could feel (I cannot look in there) there's a funnel-like structure at the back with steps instead of a smooth surface. I assume this is to accomodate accessoirs with shafts of different widths. The shaft was stuck on one of those steps instead of resting at the very back. I made a schematic representation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2AiV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2AiV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually have to push the bits in with some force to get them into the center position, otherwise they catch on those stepped structures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T19:48:34.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5684" CreationDate="2018-12-11T22:19:12.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend it. Glass especially bottles/jars can explode when heated like that sending pieces of hot glass flying in all directions  I recommend getting a good art and craft  kit specifically for glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6447" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T22:19:12.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-12T01:25:41.847" Score="4" ViewCount="1862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mistakenly put my jacket on a rounded hook. The weight of the jacket put it through. Now, I have a thumb size hole under my collar. I could leave it but I worry it could get larger over time and would like to stop that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that I can sew it. I feel the thread would just tear through it as I was tightening the seam. The jacket &lt;em&gt;feels&lt;/em&gt; thin there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a leather patch the ideal way to go here just to be sure the fix is more long term?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to repair the thumb sized hole in my jacket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T11:18:48.337" Title="How can a repair a hole in my sheepskin jacket?" Tags="|sewing|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5706" CreationDate="2018-12-12T11:18:48.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you use leather glue to glue a patch from the inner side (with either leather or cloth - whatever suits the design of your jacket best). You can get creative with that and glue some logo or image instead of just a blunt patch (if so, you can do it on the outer side instead of the inner side). But from what I can visualise the leather is not only torn, but also stretched and deformed at the place. If that is the case, I'd suggest before you glue it to try to bring it back to its original shape as much as possible by dampening the affected place with cool water. Water will cause the stretched leather to shrink slightly once dry but while it is still damp you can also stretch it a bit if necessary. Do that only if you are sure water won't damage the jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6451" LastActivityDate="2018-12-12T11:18:48.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5715" CreationDate="2018-12-13T01:12:39.773" Score="5" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have plans for a table with a gold inlay. Problem is, gold is expensive and the inlay is quite large (it's not a 'wire' inlay - I'd be casting a pretty substantial piece and setting it into the table). I'd like to use a different metal that I can effectively seal to prevent excessive oxidization (and etc.) that is at least &lt;em&gt;vaguely&lt;/em&gt; gold-colored. So far I've been toying with brass or copper, but I wanted to see if anyone knew of any other metals that might provide a good substitute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2687" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T15:04:58.307" Title="What is a castable gold-coloured metal that is less expensive than gold?" Tags="|metal|metalworking|casting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5709" CreationDate="2018-12-13T02:55:21.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a gold color , with no coating, you are limited to copper alloys. They come in a wide color range from red bronzes to silver &quot;German silver&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T02:55:21.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5667" CreationDate="2018-12-13T07:42:08.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A slightly “fancier” version than paint is gold leaf. You could choose the genuine material (kind of pricey) or a gold-colored metal. Especially the latter should be available in a good craft store, together with the adhesive and brushes to lift, apply and press into the small crevices of the walnut’s surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the chosen metal, a layer of sealant may be a good idea if you want to keep the nut for a while. And if you are actually going through the process (which is a bit more tedious than gold paint or spray), I suggest you consider the mini-hinge suggestion mentioned in a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T07:42:08.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5667" CreationDate="2018-12-13T07:51:16.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For “medium- to large-scale production” (e.g. making golden walnuts as tree ornaments), we’ve successfully used both golden craft paint and spray paint. Especially the latter is a bit messy, but retains the surface structure very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue the halves together (wood glue or standard white craft glue will do), sandwiching a ribbon loop as hanger in between. For the spray option, protect the ribbon with masking tape, loop the hangers over a kind of rod, lining the ornaments up with a bit of distance in between. Spray, either outside or with a large cardboard box put on end to catch the excess paint. Let dry while still hanging on the holder. Remove tape, done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a hanger-less version, push a toothpick in the part of the shell where there’s a little natural gap, stick the other end in a piece of styrofoam or similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2018-12-13T13:17:55.023" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T13:17:55.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2018-12-13T08:28:38.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Galleries, museums and some home owners use picture rails - strips mounted on the top of walls. The pictures get hung on wires (for heavier objects) or transparent / wall colored strings that hook onto the rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional version is often wider, and a decorative element per se (aka picture molding), but there are thin and unobtrusive models for a modern sleek look available. Find examples of different styles and more details &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.picturehangingsystems.com/picture-rail-hanging-system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (random example, not an endorsement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage is that there is no damage to the walls (unless you count the area where the picture rails are mounted, but they are typically considered a permanent item) and pictures can be rearranged or exchanged easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T08:28:38.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5709" CreationDate="2018-12-13T11:57:17.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could use epoxy resin instead of metal. It's not exactly cheap and you'd have to do some research as to which resin is best suited for your purpose (or suited at all), but there are tons of YouTube videos of how to design tables with epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coloration could be a problem because depending on the pigment it won't look like metal at all, even if the pigment is golden. If you want to take this approach, I propose you buy colored resin instead of coloring it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in epoxy resin, you should research the following topics before executing your first project:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The different kinds of resin and their properties. Some are only suited for thin layers, others only for thick layers. If you use improper resin, it might stay soft and sticky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The safety measures! Always wear goggles and gloves and keep the area well ventilated, even if you don't smell any noxious fumes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to get rid of bubbles. This is a common problem with resin but less severe with opaque colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2018-12-14T15:04:58.307" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T15:04:58.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5709" CreationDate="2018-12-13T23:02:28.923" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no other easily available alloy than Copper based ones that are gold colored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass is the most readily available that will have a gold color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a very wide variety of bronzes that will let you choose a precise color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But Copper alloys are maybe not the best option have here. It is very heavy. There is a wide variety of option to get something gold colored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium can be gold colored using specific anodising. Aluminium is lighter, cheaper, easy to tool...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JetMetal is an industrial process that can project a thin layer of gold colored copper alloy on any surface, including plastics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A layer of gold colored copper alloy can also be deposited in a electro-chemical process on any metal..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TiN deposited by PVD is very thin and It will be breached one day or another....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4738" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T23:02:28.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2018-12-18T05:03:06.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use old bullet casings as punches, in a pinch. Hit them with a ball peen hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6473" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T05:03:06.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5669" CreationDate="2018-12-18T22:10:38.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are gold and silver pens with metallic ink that will give you the &quot;pop&quot; of the gold without the kitchiness of actual glitter.  There are many brands available if you do a search for &quot;Pen with gold metallic ink&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6463" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T22:10:38.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-18T22:42:18.437" Score="6" ViewCount="14179" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I work with air-dry clays, the sculpture shrinks in size and there occurs lots of cracks. It is really time consuming, and hard to fix. So far, I tried filling in the cracks with glue and clay, then I sand the sculpture to get a smooth surface as much as I can. However, it is never very smooth, and like I said time consuming. &lt;strong&gt;Are there any other ways to fix it?&lt;/strong&gt; (I let it dry covered with a plastic bag to increase the drying time.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6475" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2018-12-19T16:29:05.113" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T13:54:18.850" Title="Fixing cracks in air-dried clay?" Tags="|sculpting|clay|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5724" CreationDate="2018-12-19T09:46:59.900" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Tanteidan Convention Book 13&lt;/em&gt;, &amp;quot;Nautilus&amp;quot; (pp.186-197), I am unable to physically realise the fold that takes diagram 15 to diagram 16:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nnpvb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nnpvb.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagrams for steps 15 and 16&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this step &amp;quot;manifest&amp;quot; on the paper? I end up with the coloured portion covering the hump in a way that does not obviously transition into diagram 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6476" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2021-07-03T22:29:56.077" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T22:29:56.077" Title="How does the step transition in this origami construction occur?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2018-12-19T11:22:58.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to pull out the paper as far as the vertical split visible in step 15. At the same time it will &quot;wrap around&quot; to show the other side of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also look at it like this: if in step 15 you completely unfold the white part, you will see a small square with a crease pattern such as for the bird base. Now, along the precreased lines, collapse one diagonal half of the square into a half of the bird base, and the other half of the square leave folded in two. This produces your step 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T11:22:58.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5721" CreationDate="2018-12-19T12:12:25.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience so far is that cheaper air-drying clays tend to shrink more than quality clays while drying. Many types of clay list the expected shrinkage on the package. If there is no information about shrinkage, you should expect it to be non-negligible (sometimes as much as 10%). As far as I understand it, different fibres added to the clay are to blame. Cheap clays use fibres that soak up more water because you pay by weight. More water in the clay means less expensive ingredients by weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Super soft&quot; and &quot;super light&quot; clays are also full of fibres. I would always prefer a clay with the texture and consistency of natural clay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slowing the drying process down is a very good idea. If the outer layer of clay dries and shrinks faster than the inner layer, it cannot shrink uniformly and has to crack. If there are badly mended cracks in the soft clay, they tend to reopen while drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickness of the clay may have an effect as well. When you form very thick structures like a fist-sized ball, you should substitute part of the clay with another material like a ball of aluminium foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your sculpture cracks, you should moisten the cracked area, fill it in with fresh clay and really rub it into the crack to attach it to the dried clay. If the fresh clay won't stick at all, it's a sign of bad quality clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T08:51:08.320" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T08:51:08.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3998" CreationDate="2018-12-19T23:40:08.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about a bit of lanolin on the thread to lubricate it enough to pull through ? You can find lanolin in the baby section, near where the bottles would be, of most large chain stores. Breastfeeding mothers use it as protection from overworked, dried skin on their nipples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how this would affect your leather, but being as how it's a natural product, I don't see where it would leave any type of greasy spot like Vaseline or leave some type of stain .. it's also very thick ,not like petroleum jelly..and a little of that stuff goes s long way, as I mentioned before,  it's very thick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, (and I know this is a bit outside the box) but know how slippery silicone based personal lubricant is? Not water based, but silicone ,maybe partially coat the thread starting at the very bottom of the needle in some of that? It could help it slide right on through! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if either of these is a really bad idea please be easy on me ;),because I'm  not very experienced in leatherwork but my dad did a lot of leatherwork when I was a young girl. I've witnessed him using a few &quot;outside the box&quot; techniques while working on a project. So I'm not entirely sure if or how it may help or harm, those more experienced in this may know, but that's just what came to mind while reading your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2018-12-20T14:03:06.303" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T14:03:06.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5648" CreationDate="2018-12-20T00:25:24.327" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about craftsy.com or you tube ? Maybe deviant art.com?I'm unsure of whether or not deviant art has any instructional videos but they have plenty of inspiration. Pinterest could even be a place to look ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T00:25:24.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5488" CreationDate="2018-12-20T16:29:16.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some experience with these materials. Paper made with cellulose absorbs the water from the glue and wrinkles. You can try using styrofoam glue or other alcohol-based glue, this way the paper will not soak up with the glue. You just need a thin layer, if you apply a lot of glue the paper may wrinkle. This glue is wet, transparent and allows the use with a paint brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OF1LA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OF1LA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally you can use paper made with cotton. I use this kind of paper to paint watercolor and I layer lots of water on top of it. Make sure the paper you're going to use is 100% cotton too! (there are 60% cotton / 40% cellulose watercolor papers that are not that great ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6481" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T13:28:05.130" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T13:28:05.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-20T18:17:16.050" Score="1" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Darwi and Ponart clays, I tried the Ponart one which is not very cheap, and not too light/too soft, but still cracks a lot! So, I stopped doing clay works, because rather than working on the figure, I spend lots of time for the cracks or other fixes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6475" LastEditorUserId="6475" LastEditDate="2018-12-24T14:55:29.557" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T13:37:02.107" Title="What are some non-cracking air dry clay brands?" Tags="|clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2018-12-20T22:26:59.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dutch traditional paper cutting only a fine pair of scissors was used, very pointy ones which were sharp over the whole length of the blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cut very small holes the paper would be folded over the center of the hole and only that little bit pinched. Then a semi circle would be cut on the fold so that when unfolded the hole would be a circle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I bet it would take a lot of practice to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bigger holes a very small fold would allow the start and then one blade of the scissors would be inserted to cut the whole shape.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I believe most cut paper artists would not switch to this method until the hole was about 3mm diameter or irregular in shape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole of the work was cut freehand, no other tools used, except for sometimes a pencil line to give guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T22:26:59.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-22T21:38:16.317" Score="1" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSvcf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSvcf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google search doesn't give any results or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.houseplanshelper.com/tile-patterns-gallery.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;it does&lt;/a&gt; but for a different pattern type :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOi9j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOi9j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T19:12:10.160" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T19:12:10.160" Title="Is there a name for a pattern which alternates circle and square tiles?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5737" CreationDate="2018-12-23T19:06:38.050" Score="2" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try paper embossing at home but have no clue how to start with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4682" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T09:06:14.983" Title="Is there a way to emboss paper without using any tool or machine?" Tags="|paper|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5733" CreationDate="2018-12-24T00:03:46.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weight. Like a flower press. &#xA;You could put the paper you want to emboss between books with the motif or design touching the paper. You could use wood to protect the books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T00:03:46.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5738" CreationDate="2018-12-24T00:42:37.947" Score="3" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an antique silver coin that I was planning on displaying on a ring, and  I was wondering if there was a protective paint that I could put on the coin.  The paint needs to be scratch resistant, protect the coin from water and oils, and needs to be able to be removed from the coin without damaging the coins value.  I do not need the paint to protect the coin from tarnishing just to protect the coin from normal wear.  I haven't been able to find anything myself and I am not a coin expert so I was hoping a coin expert could help me with this, thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6493" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T10:08:41.327" Title="protective paint for coins" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5733" CreationDate="2018-12-24T01:44:29.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess not &amp;quot;without any tool&amp;quot;. You're gonna need something to apply weight or pressure on paper, your nails, fingers, a rod, etc., whatever doesn't scratch or leave many undesired artifacts. If your paper is heavy-weight, similar to cardboard, the results would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First try it slowly with thin but dull objects like rounded tips of a hair clip, a ballpoint pen which doesn't write, or a pen cap, on a spare sheet same as your paper. The support you use also should be relatively smooth and not leaving visible dirt/ink marks on the surface: a couple of normal white papers on a desk would be fine. Start to slowly trace the pattern, then move to a larger tool like the back of a pen for filling in the shapes. If you are satisfied, proceed with your actual piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3126" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T09:06:14.983" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T09:06:14.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5736" CreationDate="2018-12-24T10:08:41.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you be happy to occasionally re-apply if the coating chipped? Clear nail polish would work in that case, and a soak in acetone won't harm the metal but would completely remove the polish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T10:08:41.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-24T17:22:12.560" Score="5" ViewCount="2311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got multiple chalk pastels sets and I'm really excited to use them, but I'm afraid to see the artworks messed up afterwards. Even though there are probably sprays I can buy to solve this problem, is there a way to use a common household product or a homemade formula?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6497" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-30T22:22:09.740" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T08:03:59.720" Title="Preserving chalk pastel artworks?" Tags="|preservation|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2018-12-24T23:31:00.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My life-long spouse has had great experience with this medium. When queried, she said hair spray is far less expensive than the commercial solutions. It's probably a good idea to test the stuff on a scrap first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2018-12-24T23:31:00.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-25T10:38:46.563" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;More or less by occasion as I searched for something original I could craft myself, I decided to craft a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdWFBY37BEw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;walnut jewelry box&lt;/a&gt; for the proposal. It went well! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kfeDM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kfeDM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this purpose I had bought a &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_grinder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rotary tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; accompanied with a set of drill and sandpaper bits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I ask myself how to explore and study more what I could do with this rotary tool but in a more systematic way than jumping from one YT tutorial to another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the wording from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arts_and_Crafts_movement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arts&amp;amp;Crafts movement&lt;/a&gt; regarding exposing the natural beauty of materials. While I am not a great artist, I think I could learn to craft more or less simple things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Local makers DIY shop has more electronics/hardware background than arts and crafts. Maybe there is a good entry level book to start with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5989" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T21:22:00.097" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T21:22:00.097" Title="Learning to work with a rotary tool" Tags="|wood|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5791" CreationDate="2018-12-25T14:31:30.893" Score="4" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some days ago I saw incredible coloured pen-drawings in some exhibition. I would like to try this medium myself. But before buying some pens I would like to get some requirements for ballpoint/rollerball pens &lt;strong&gt;generally&lt;/strong&gt; for art drawing. So, immediate questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ballpoint vs rollerball? As far as I understand, then the ink makes the only difference between them, rollerballs' ink are more fluid and are coming out more easily. I guess, that rollerballs pens are more appropriate for the art.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What width should I choose? As I understand, then the smallest width - 0.5mm - gives the greatest flexibility and I guess that even thinner pens are not available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about color permanence, does art pens have labels for it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What color palette is advisable? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe there are other factors to take into account?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is about general requirements and it is not about concrete brands. But still - I have heard about Faber-Castell CX color ballpoint 10-color set, but their homepage does not show such product. Nor other larger suppliers of art materials have such category. Maybe there are some advices how to seek further the best pens for art drawing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2461" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T00:37:22.070" Title="What are requirements for ballpoint/rollerball colour pens for art-grade drawing?" Tags="|drawing|color|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5741" CreationDate="2018-12-26T04:07:11.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got a local makers DIY shop, so that is probably your best bet.&#xA;If it's current membership don't focus on crafts, just ask the leadership if you can start a craft night.  Volunteer to teach people how to make that walnut jewelry box during the first meeting.  Then at the end of the meeting, ask for other presenters to teach on other craft subjects.  With a little luck, you could build a thriving craft community very quickly.  Somewhere in that growing community, you will find the rotary tool teacher who can help you master it in an orderly fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, the best way to master a tool is to use it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Find tasks which need doing where your rotary tool can play a part.  Then research on YT how to apply the rotary tool to that task.  Each new task completed increases your skill with the tool and in a surprisingly short time, you will have more new tricks to teach to your growing craft community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T04:07:11.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2393" CreationDate="2018-12-26T16:22:11.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use permanent photo mounts.  You can cut them in half or thirds, use tweezers to apply.  They are very clean and easy to use when making cards.  Still looking for a glue that doesn’t bubble lightweight paper for glitter for gift tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6500" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T16:22:11.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2018-12-26T21:44:07.083" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will see a dulling or muting of the colors if you use fixative, which is why many pastel artists will actually “fix” in stages. Personally I like to build up muted color layers and use my highlights and whites on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what, you should always apply multiple light layers of fixative, letting them dry in between stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hair spray is good in a pinch (I have used it for decades), but it is never artist grade, as it likely is not pH neutral. Depending on the aromatics and the constituent chemical composition, you may actually (but probably won’t) promote long term damage to the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one other notable alternative to acrylic-based spray fixative other than hair spray, but you will need to test them: the “impregnating” sprays used for shoes / leather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you REALLY want to make it yourself, the classical method would be to dissolve damar varnish flakes in turpentine and use an atomizer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T21:44:07.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2393" CreationDate="2018-12-26T22:06:09.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a brush gives you a lot of control on coverage and thickness. Using a roller(brayer) works well for thin application on large areas. It is possible to thin glue out as well. Trial and error is a great way to figure out what will work best, always have test pieces. It took me a long time to figure that out and now it saves so much time. Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T22:06:09.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5749" CreationDate="2018-12-27T00:44:46.533" Score="2" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to paint on stretched canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do make it ready-to-mount (for gift-giving), or am I compelled to also purchase a frame, and drill holes in the back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jerrysartarama.com/centurion-artist-quality-linen-canvas-3-4-inch-boxes-of-six&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;canvas&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jerrysartarama.com/3-4-inch-deep-illusions-floater-frames&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;frame&lt;/a&gt; I'm using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jerrysartarama.com/fredrix-ultra-smooth-portrait-grade-blue-label-canvas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this product&lt;/a&gt;'s description says &amp;quot;hang with or without a frame&amp;quot;, how on earth would I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the &amp;quot;chat rep&amp;quot; is a bot, it is useless (I already asked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-21T08:56:00.573" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T08:56:00.573" Title="Hang canvas without a frame" Tags="|canvas|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5762" CreationDate="2018-12-27T09:32:36.460" Score="6" ViewCount="1299" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://enchroma.com/pages/moderate-protan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the results of this online test&lt;/a&gt; and previous, &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; (doctor-aided) tests, I have red-green color blindness ('&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_blindness#Protanomaly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;protanomaly&lt;/a&gt;'). As for real life experience, I don't think it's very invasive; I can see the difference in tone and color more or less (at least I think so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to learn to paint with oil paint and tempera, and later I would want to try to study at an art university, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can draw with pencils relatively well based on objective opinions (not from family or friends), and I tried painting in the past. Now after a 1-2 year gap I'm drawing again and want to paint as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mainly want to paint nature, landscapes, surreal and futuristic/sci-fi art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6503" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-09T21:01:14.590" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T06:32:47.627" Title="Can I be a painter as a colorblind person?" Tags="|painting|color|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5747" CreationDate="2018-12-27T09:47:25.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need an outer frame.&#xA;Here is a way to go about it:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqHtQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;canvas&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6504" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T09:47:25.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5752" CreationDate="2018-12-27T16:20:16.657" Score="2" ViewCount="5365" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far, I've used oil pastels on paper, mat it, then seal it in bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'd like to use oil pastels on stretched canvas. I was told that dust will accumulate and the oil pastel will get smudged, hence I need to apply fixative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am painting for my hobby, and giving artworks to friends, colleagues, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I really need to spray a fixative that may change the color, and even be hazardous to my health?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-21T08:50:27.143" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T08:50:27.143" Title="Is it really necessary to spray oil pastels with a fixative?" Tags="|canvas|oil-pastels|fixative|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5614" CreationDate="2018-12-27T18:12:41.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two scenarios to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Molding and Sculpting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For molding, most use a 1/4&quot; to 3/8&quot; aggregate.  Using larger aggregate may force aggregate to migrate to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ratio depends on how big the statue will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical mix:&#xA;   1 part  Portland Cement (white cement ratio is the same)&#xA;   2 parts Sand (nothing fancy - its the connector for the cement to grab hold of)&#xA;   1 part  Aggregate (Gravel) - this can be as big or small depending on preference.&#xA;           most use the Pea Gravel sized rocks for statuary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be necessary to increase the amount of aggregate to 2 parts in bigger pieces like the life-sized ones as described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional things to add and think about:&#xA;  1) Add a Acrylic Bonding Liquid to help the mix stay together better.&#xA;  2) Add Alkaline Resistant (AR) Fibers and Mesh to the pieces to help with strength.&#xA;  3) Add metal wire - Rebar or stiff wire - to help with strength and flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pointers for molding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concrete in molds can trap air bubbles and distort the surface of the piece.  To combat this, vibrate the mold to release air bubbles - tapping the sides of the mold or vibrating the entire mold with a mechanical device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiment with making the mixture thicker or thinner to allow the bubbles to release without needing to vibrate them away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are voids created by bubbles or mold issues, create a slurry of cement and water to fill the gaps and smooth them over&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finish the piece use a stone rasp, file, grinder, or sand paper while the surface is still damp.  Be careful as the surface is not cured and may mar or damage easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For actual sculpting:&#xA;   1 part  Portland Cement&#xA;   2 parts Sand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mixture much less stable and can be shaped and worked.  This is really just a mortar and not concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When making a large structure, something bigger is needed to support the cement.  Different ideas for use are: &#xA;Styrofoam (Extrude Polystyrene - EPS), &#xA;Backer board, &#xA;wood,&#xA;metal, &#xA;wire, &#xA;plastic, &#xA;paper, &#xA;cans, &#xA;glass bottles, &#xA;and anything to take up space and provide support.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Structures can be similar to the type used with topiary designs, but these won't be hollow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After making the piece, it's important to let it cure and to seal it.  Any concrete exposed to the outdoor elements will deteriorate and lose it's details if left unprotected.  Clear varnish or sealers are the best choices, but be sure to use Outdoor products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curing times vary depending on the thickness, humidity, and temperature.  The longer, the better.  Keep the piece from undergoing extreme changes (temperature and humidity) to minimize the cracking and possible powdering/flaking. A slow cure with a stable environment is best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer the cure, the stronger the piece will be.  For smaller pieces, wrapping in plastic is the most common way.  Misting or wetting the surface will help the humidity to remain stable and promote the curing.  The curing can take from 3-4 days to two weeks.  The process is done from the outside inward.  Many cracked concrete slabs that were poured years ago and are still damp in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the better instructional videos can outline specific methods and procedures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are good YouTube videos about concrete casting and sculpting from these channels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubbermoldman (aka P. David Jensen)&#xA;Mrconcreteartisan&#xA;Microcast Molds&#xA;T.TB- Construction - Specific to sculpting with mortar on top of other pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Casting !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6508" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T18:12:41.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5750" CreationDate="2018-12-27T18:38:59.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want the artwork destroyed, then yes. Any contact with unfixed pastel (oil or chalk) will smudge it. This includes contact through the plastic bags you're dropping the art into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An artist-grade, archival-quality spray fixative should cause minimal color changes to your drawing, and proper handling will prevent any health issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In selecting your fixative, you'll want to evaluate whether it's designed for use on (oil) pastels, whether you wish to use it only at the final layer or throughout the work (&amp;quot;workable&amp;quot; vs &amp;quot;final&amp;quot; fixatives), and whether you prefer a gloss or matte finish on the final artwork. You'll also want to test your choice of fixative on a sample piece using your same oil pastels before spraying it on a finished piece, to ensure that there are no unexpected interactions between the fixative and your specific brand of pastels. (If you change brands, you'll likely want to repeat this test.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as safety goes, you can check for an ACMI label of either &amp;quot;AP&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;CL:&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Products bearing the AP seal of the Art &amp;amp; Creative Materials Institute, Inc. (ACMI) are certified non-toxic. A medical expert evaluates each product and its ingredients. A product can be certified non-toxic only if it contains no materials in sufficient quantities to be toxic or injurious to humans, or to cause acute or chronic health problems. AP certification is reviewed by ACMI's Toxicological Advisory Board. These products are certified by ACMI to be labeled in accordance with the chronic hazard labeling standard, ASTM D-4236 and federal law P.L. 100-695.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Products bearing the CL seal of the Art &amp;amp; Creative Materials Institute (&amp;quot;Caution Label&amp;quot;) contain ingredients that are toxic or hazardous, but they can be used safely with appropriate caution. Materials that bear the CL seal should be used only by those persons who are able to read, understand, and follow suggested safety precautions for handling those materials. The Caution Label signifies that although the product contains a toxic element, it can be handled safely if the directions on the container or packaging are followed. Many such art products cannot be made non-hazardous, but are necessary for certain creative activities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source and more details: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/productinfo/healthsafety/#labeling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dick Blick Health and Safety Info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary health hazards you'll encounter with an aerosol fixative will be particulate and organic vapors. If you plan to use sealant frequently, you'll want to get a half-face respirator mask rated for particulate (N95+ in US standards) and organic vapor protection. You'll need to ensure the fit is correct, keep the mask itself clean, and replace the filter cartridges regularly. You'll also need to fit-test it every time you wear it (done by putting the mask on, covering the filters and inhaling to ensure no air comes in, then covering the exhalation valve and exhaling to ensure no air escapes), to be sure you've got it properly sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the specific hobby focus is different, this page has some excellent overall information on how to select and maintain a half-face respirator, with more detail than I've gone into here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://thedollsofourlives.weebly.com/respiratory-protection.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Respiratory Protection&lt;/a&gt; (Note: this page duplicates a separate one blocked behind a registration wall on a private forum.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two key hilights from the page are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding particulate protection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sanding applications (including sanding of resin, apoxie and other sculpting materials, and wood), you need a respirator that provides at least N95 level protection. It should say N95 somewhere on the mask itself. If it doesn't say, it is not good enough. There is a scale to protection levels and anything above N95 is also acceptable (of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The levels are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N95, P95, N100, P100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding organic vapor protection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of spraying releases aerosols (and this is true whether or not you are using an aerosol spray can product. Airbrushing paint creates aerosols too!) for which an N95 filter is not effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you will need to move into a mask that protects you against Organic Vapours AND has an N95 filter. This will mean moving into a half-face respirator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your respirator is no longer disposable and can be used again and again without ill effect; the only thing that will need replacing is your filter and (if applicable) your prefilter. Some respirator brands have an N95 filter built right into the Organic Vapour cartridge, but I recommend looking for one that does not, for ease of replacement. Cartridges and filters have different life spans and it is more economical to replace only the part that requires replacing (more on this below!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want your work to stay in good condition, not smudge, and not transfer to the skin or clothes of anyone who brushes up against it, you'll need to spray with a sealant, but in no way does that mean you are going to &amp;quot;ruin&amp;quot; either your artwork or your health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T18:38:59.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5650" CreationDate="2018-12-27T19:12:03.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, it's not too hard.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the beginner, Basswood and Butternut woods are the easiest to carve.  Don't be confused about the hardwood and softwood definitions as they aren't literal interpretations of the wood's hardness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One source for carving woods is Heinecke Wood Products - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.heineckewood.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.heineckewood.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sculpture Studio has a list of some of the woods commonly used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesculpturestudio.com/typesOfWood.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thesculpturestudio.com/typesOfWood.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal is harder than all of the woods, but some wood is harder to cut than others due to the density, grain, and water content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sharpening knives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of videos about sharpening knives out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, start coarse and graduate to finer and finer grits.  At the end, stropping is the finest of the grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To strop, mount a piece of leather to a small board.  Rub a buffing compound into the leather and then pull the blade across it, backward so as to be actually honing the blade.  Besides the sharpening procedure, one of the keys to sharpening lies in the type of metal used to make the knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap metal blades do not hold their edges very long and must be continually resharpened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good metal blades will require less sharpening and don't require such time consuming maintenance.  So choose knives carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When stropping, the surface of the blade is being polished repeatedly.  This decreases the drag of the metal across the surface of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up close, knife edges are really uneven and full of gaps and voids.  The goal in sharpening is to minimize them and create a smooth, even finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longevity of the wood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longevity of the wood depends on the environment it lives in.  Outdoor pieces will weather and be exposed to harsher, more extreme fluctuations which will cause cracking and checking.  Outdoor pieces should be coated with a UV and moisture resistant finish specifically designed for the exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not overlook the need for a thumb guard and carving glove.  These items are truly essential.  A properly sharpened carving knife will cut, gouge, slice, poke, stab, impale, and hurt the carver.  Think about a leather apron which may prevent a cut to the legs and chest while carving in the lap.  The femoral artery is exposed on the inner thigh area and is easily cut without some form of protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great references for carving include&#xA; Gene Messer - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/whittler0507&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/user/whittler0507&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; Doug Outside (channel) - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-eOXKXJ2GQ1gewivwNxYKQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-eOXKXJ2GQ1gewivwNxYKQ&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; Kevin Coates - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHIwp6WJZdGvySIdpmxq5Yw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHIwp6WJZdGvySIdpmxq5Yw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Carving !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6508" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-17T21:25:44.077" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T21:25:44.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5757" CreationDate="2018-12-27T19:53:27.973" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jISy0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jISy0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two pieces of jersey fabric, black and red, with white specks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;What is this type of texture on a fabric called? I've seen knit fabrics with these tiny specks with a contrasting colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6509" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T20:08:26.577" Title="What is this texture called?" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5754" CreationDate="2018-12-28T12:52:45.997" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Nep&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Generally, a nep is defined as an entanglement of fibers, that can be caused by environmental factors during growth, processing or are inherent to particular varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GMWmC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GMWmC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Polyester nep&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abtexintl.net/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;abtexintl.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCrlA.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCrlA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/productpage.0542743012.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hm.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZAlsU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZAlsU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/neps-melange-knitted-fabric-17030043155.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;indiamart.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OdET.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9OdET.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.taylorstitch.com/products/the-glacier-shirt-in-navy-nep-twill&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;taylorstitch.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HBlC7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HBlC7.png&quot; alt=&quot;NEP YARN&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.asos.com/au/sisley/sisley-scoop-neck-t-shirt-with-nep-yarn/prd/5667406&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;asos.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fleck Nep&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e41Ct.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e41Ct.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.superdenim.com/eu/joe-mccoy-freck-nep-trousers-black-mp17103.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;superdenim.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8V17.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8V17.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.realmccoyslondon.com/eu/fleck-nep-open-collar-shirt.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;realmccoyslondon.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Flecked Corduroy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b2eTW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b2eTW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T20:08:26.577" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T20:08:26.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5754" CreationDate="2018-12-28T13:22:25.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can often see a similar, but unintended effect on knitwear called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pill_(textile)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pilling&lt;/a&gt;. This is a defect of the fabric caused by washing and wear. Small, loose fibres on the surface become felted in these small pills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T13:22:25.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2393" CreationDate="2018-12-28T19:51:23.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like using the mini (3/16 in) Glue Dots from the craft store.  I tried all sorts of glues and tapes and these are working fine for me attaching photos printed on thin glossy paper onto card stock.  I make greeting cards this way now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6514" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T19:51:23.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5685" CreationDate="2018-12-29T06:32:58.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calsak plastics in atlanta. You can buy a 4x8ft sheet for about 25$ they have every color of the rainbow. You can also look in catalogs that sell displays to stores, you can find every type of display plastic there to cut. We had a friend who sold sunglasses she gave us a lot to cut. Here is a link &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calsakplastics.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.calsakplastics.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Ask for broken sheets and pieces if you only need small amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6516" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T06:32:58.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5748" CreationDate="2018-12-29T09:27:18.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course. We all perceive things differently anyway... The fact that you see things and find them worth painting is what matters here. [personal opinion] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6517" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T09:27:18.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5748" CreationDate="2018-12-29T09:31:57.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can be a painter, but you should expect to encounter more obstacles and limitations than a person with normal color vision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the color wheel:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/images/LQCxkQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Color wheel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two opposite colors look so similar to you that you would confuse them, you're going to have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may not be able to paint some red or green objects in a realistic way. If you paint a red apple in a way that the painting looks like a perfect copy to you, it may look different for a person with normal color vision.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Red and green behave totally different if mixed with different colors. That might actually help you identify the paint on your pallet, but it may cause problems and accidents as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Red is a &quot;warm&quot; color, green is a &quot;cold&quot; color. Using the wrong color might totally destroy the mood of a painting, but you could use this as a contrast as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to learn to paint like anyone else, but you'll also have to learn to cope with the fact that you see colors in a different way. This doesn't mean that you cannot become an artist. You have to find your own style like anyone else, but some art styles might be impossible for you to be good at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could buy an inexpensive set of colors and experiment with different motives. Read and learn about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_wheel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;color theory&lt;/a&gt; and show your works to friends and family. I doubt you'll get it completely wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T09:31:57.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5764" CreationDate="2018-12-29T14:43:17.933" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image attached is of a painting which is deteriorating around the edges of the frame. The paint appears to be falking off of the canvas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is between 70 and 80 years old, I don't know what type of paint although I would guess oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to prevent further damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RVaJH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RVaJH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T21:30:28.510" Title="Advice on preserving an old painting" Tags="|painting|preservation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5763" CreationDate="2018-12-29T16:14:58.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should consult a professional conservator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not even sure what kind of paint was used for this painting, chances are high anything you do'll cause more damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A conservator can see what kind of paint was used, what may have caused the damage (moisture, too much tension, deterioration of the paint?) and how to effectively stop the damage from spreading. Usually they would have a look at the painting and give you an estimate of the current value as well as an cost estimate for the preservation or repair before you have to decide whether or not you want to engage them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T16:14:58.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5773" CreationDate="2018-12-30T23:56:24.720" Score="3" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some decorations that have standard fairy lights behind some plastic which creates a kind of holographic effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar product here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07JB979HD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07JB979HD&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this material and what types of places sell it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1OK0O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Christmas star holographic light decoration&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6525" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T13:29:48.300" LastActivityDate="2023-08-03T12:09:59.593" Title="What is this holographic material" Tags="|plastic|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2018-12-31T02:48:09.317" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought many paint brushes recently, for acrylic, oil, watercolor, etc. I'm experimenting with paint at this stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the brush packages have little charts showing what the different bristle configurations are good for, but I don't have a comprehensive list for my entire (basic) assortment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about bristle configurations like round, pointed, slanted, fan, etc. What are the different types (and their names) and what is their &quot;intended&quot; purpose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T02:04:48.400" Title="What are the different type of artist brush configurations and their purposes?" Tags="|painting|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-01T09:26:58.897" Score="0" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;By 'classical' I mean it looked not modern, so it had to be painted at least 100 years ago. I came across that painting in maybe an educational video, but can in no way remember what is was. The mentioned girl or woman is white, and I'm not sure the gathering of other people are all males or have female included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was led to wonder what the woman did to deserve that kind of humiliation? My searches led to unfruitful results such as Hypatia - apparently she wasn't in that situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6529" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T14:42:06.460" Title="What classical painting depicts a trial or a slavery bidding, where a naked female is standing before a crowd?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-01-01T20:53:15.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5768" CreationDate="2019-01-01T13:19:46.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google search: Classical Painting Slave Market&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Slave Market&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otto Pilny. 1866-1936&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nE0gl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nE0gl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slave Market in Ancient Rome&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gérôme, Jean-Léon. 1824-1904&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hermitagemuseum.org/wps/portal/hermitage/digital-collection/01.+Paintings/37946/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.hermitagemuseum.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uv8Zd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uv8Zd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Slave Market&lt;/h2&gt; &#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Victor-Julien Giraud. 1867&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8c4di.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8c4di.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2019-01-01T14:42:06.460" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T14:42:06.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5775" CreationDate="2019-01-01T13:23:41.310" Score="6" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to both landscape painting/drawing and using and mixing colors, so one of the reasons for making relatively simple paintings and drawings is my inexperience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a small pack of oil pastels as a Christmas present and I started practicing and painting landscapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to ask for some advice based on one of my paintings - the one I pasted below - which was painted this morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used lighter and cooler shades in the distance, and making the sides of the slope darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the pines I tried to make the right sides darker and add a little bright green and yellow to the left and a &amp;quot;weak&amp;quot; shadow to the right to emphasize the direction of the sun rays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The darker, slightly blended line on the foot of the mountains is a forest. I tried to make it as light as I could to not to make it seem &amp;quot;nearer&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just feel like the drawing looks too childish, too amateur - like it could be improved a million times. I watched landscape photos and other oil pastel paintings as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me more contrast would be good, and I thought about adding grass and flowers, which I'm sure I'll learn how to paint. Nevertheless, &lt;strong&gt;some objective, &amp;quot;general&amp;quot; advice would be very helpful :)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use print paper and &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; paper for writing. I cannot afford professional sketchbooks and papers at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q1NaG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q1NaG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6503" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-10-06T10:35:49.657" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T12:13:44.053" Title="Technical advice to improve working with oil pastels" Tags="|drawing|oil-pastels|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5766" CreationDate="2019-01-01T21:59:51.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called &quot;3D star effect foil&quot; or &quot;3D holographic foil&quot; and can be found in well-equipped craft stores (especially around christmas time) or online:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rayher-23009000-star-effect-100x33cm-0-15mm/dp/B013DPINX4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dannells.com/3d-light-scattering-holographic-foil----milky-white---33cm-x-3mtrs-3186-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dannells&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T21:59:51.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5748" CreationDate="2019-01-02T01:59:22.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, I can't see how color blindness on its own can be a serious barrier.&#xA;Anyway, overwhelming majority of visual information is carried by strokes, gradients, contrast, i.e. &lt;em&gt;achromatic&lt;/em&gt; image.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In simple words: most of the time color hues are unimportant for perception of information.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course color hues may be more important for specific objects, e.g. when representing flowers or in specific contexts where colors are used as 'codes', e.g. warning signs or user interface elements. &#xA;But it is not necessary to make color hues central in your paintings. There are millions of ways to express yourself in arts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually many serious art movements and techniques are all about the form and informational component of the image. For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiaroscuro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chiaroscuro&lt;/a&gt; technique.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are unsure how a color painting made by you is perceived by others - you should &#xA;just ask their opinion. Just remember - contrast is what makes an image, &#xA;and hues are additional layer on top of it, not even necessary, and sometimes even distracting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6534" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T01:59:22.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5770" CreationDate="2019-01-02T11:22:25.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is not in your drawing - it's in the pastels. There are some media in which the quality of the materials you use make a huge difference, and oil pastels is one of them. (I also didn't like the childish way my pastel drawings looked, but getting a set of Faber Castel oil pastels changed it all.) So if you are into oil pastels, I'd suggest you get a set of good quality ones. They are expensive, but they are worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you could use cartridge paper instead of writing/printing paper. It is the general purpose paper for artwork - it is thicker than writing/printing paper and it is not expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6536" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T11:22:25.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5782" CreationDate="2019-01-02T19:43:21.267" Score="5" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on an old Singer sewing machine.  How should I adjust the (highlighted purple) screw in the image below? It sets the depth that the needle goes down below the clothing being sewn.  If I set the nut where it has been locked for decades (based on corrosion and scratch marks) the machinery around the bobbin hits the needle and pushes it forward, against the direction the fabric travels while being sewn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a spec along the lines of, &quot;The needle eye (or tip) should go 1/8 of an inch below the bottom of the sewing machine foot, when the foot is in the down position...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV6bQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV6bQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Singer sewing machine without cover, needle end&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6539" OwnerDisplayName="Applegrafter" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2019-01-06T13:45:46.977" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T13:45:46.977" Title="What needle depth should I set to prevent the machinery from hitting the needle?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-02T21:57:04.267" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had something rather silly happen today. I altered the cuff of a storebought shirt, then machine washed the shirt. While hanging it, I noticed this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EGXXlm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EGXXlm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pin poking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a pin left in the cuff. Its head is stuck between the two layers of the cuff piece, and its length pokes through the fabric. The shirt is made from plain, rather thin, cotton broadcloth. The offender is a glass-head pin, with a 2-3 mm head, and the head is larger than the stitch size I used to close the cuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bfdvSs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bfdvSs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pin example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the nicely-turned-out, finally-finished, seam. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make holes in the fabric. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear a shirt with a sharp pin poking at me. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am willing to sacrifice the pin itself, if that would help somehow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T18:15:54.970" Title="How to free this sewing pin from the finished shirt" Tags="|sewing|pins|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5777" CreationDate="2019-01-02T22:35:29.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the metal shaft of the pin (including the pointy part) can be removed by cutting through it with wire cutters, being careful to minimize the length left still attached to the head, while simultaneously not damaging the fabric with the cutters.  Detached from the head, the majority of the pin's shaft should then be easily removable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the pin has been reduced to a pinhead, push any still visible shaft material into the space where the pinhead has been captured, then roll the pinhead around in that space until it reaches an out-of-the-way corner, where it can remain until its presence bothers you enough to open a seam and let it out.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the metal part removed and leaving the head still present but tucked away invisibly, is probably the best solution you can attain without reopening the seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT : One more quick thought.  Take a similar pin that is not trapped in a garment and grab the head with a pair of pliers.  Then grab the shaft with another pair of pliers and see if you can pull them apart.  If you can, then pulling might be a better solution than cutting the shaft as it won't leave any of the potentially pointy metal trapped inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T22:35:29.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-03T06:18:05.150" Score="-2" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do some artists use narrow tonal ranges in their paintings? What is the advantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jXi0G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jXi0G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMOOL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMOOL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5NEB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5NEB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One art writer I read writes that a narrow tonal range produces a &quot;metaphysical&quot; feel to the painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interested in your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="458" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T17:46:19.677" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T17:46:19.677" Title="Why do some artists use narrow tonal ranges?" Tags="|color|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5777" CreationDate="2019-01-03T08:40:06.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try crushing the glass head with a pair of pliers. If you're lucky, the metal head inside the glass is small enough to be removed without opening the seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's still stuck, cut the head of with wirecutters like Henry Taylor described. Keep in mind that the needle head may rust after being washed several times. You should tuck the left-over head into a corner that's as invisible as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T08:40:06.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5777" CreationDate="2019-01-03T18:15:54.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pop one stitch with a seam ripper while holding the pin and slide it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done this one a bunch of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T18:15:54.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5776" CreationDate="2019-01-03T18:23:28.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to download the manual for this machine on Singer’s website. I can’t see the model number, it looks like it may be model 457, if so, it’s there. Upon looking at the manual for the 457, it only gives maintenance instructions not repair. This is not unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qiDJJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qiDJJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lines on shaft&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the two lines lower on the shaft?&#xA;To answer your “spec” query, instead of a measurement, the instructions will be to line up those marks by turning the flywheel. I don’t remember specifically which line to what spot. &#xA;Then inside the bobbin area, you’ll need to loosen certain screws to move the catch position so it grabs the thread properly and doesn’t smash into the bobbin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it’s that screw, but, it’s the bobbin that needs to be adjusted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a “tune up” procedure to fix the “timing” if you want to get quotes from a pro repair company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by thoroughly cleaning out the bobbin area, oil the machine and then, it’s best to get a pro to make the fine adjustments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T18:58:03.790" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T18:58:03.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5779" CreationDate="2019-01-03T21:29:35.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is partially opinion-based, obviously, but there are some reasons I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expression&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;br&gt;Even though this is seemingly a very broad (but by far the major) justification, the point is that the range of the colour palette naturally conveys a different meaning. Morandi's work, for example, emphasizes composition and division of the flat surface rather than objects in space, and has a poetic, meditative atmosphere. &lt;br&gt;At the art academy, I was once told about a very crude division of painters in &lt;em&gt;colorists&lt;/em&gt; (Matisse, Dufy, Seurat, as well as Del Sarto, El Greco, Vermeer, ..: artists that use colour to express themselves) and &lt;em&gt;tonalists&lt;/em&gt; (like Morandi, but also Munch, Titian, the Barbizon and Hague School artists, Rembrandt, ..: artists that use tonal values as a means of expression), and in this limited division Morandi would be an obvious proponent of the latter.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Tightly linked with this, but something to consider independently nonetheless, is expression through character, or just personal taste. We usually think of expression in painting (and the visual arts) as something deliberate, a purposeful charging of an artwork with premeditated values that guide the spectator, but often these limitations or abundances of colours are just personal preference (which still say a lot about the world view of the artist, and therefore usually their artistic intent, of course).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stage of the work.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;The first image you posted looks more like a rudimentary stage of the work than calculated artistic expression. As a preparatory stage, underpainting (or &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grisaille&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grisaille&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;) using earth tones or greys was (and is) a very common method to decide on tonal values and composition of the envisioned work while the underlying drawing is made and still can be worked on.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCTXh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCTXh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Breughel, Christ and the Woman taken in adultery, 1565. Example image of underpainting, from the Wikipedia article&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Condition of the work&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;br&gt;This goes beyond the intent of your question, I guess, but often the range of colours and tones can be radically changed through ageing (see image below), hazardous atmospheric conditions, or bad restoration. Quality and application of ground, paint, varnish, and the nature of the support are also things to consider here. For example, the background of Vermeer's Girl with Pearl Earring used to be a saturated dark green, existing of an organic yellow ('&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stil_de_grain_yellow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;schijtgeel&lt;/a&gt;') that completely got lost throughout the ages.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKFNv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKFNv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photograph of partially restorated painting, showing the tonal difference and that in colour between both stages&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T21:29:35.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-03T22:44:42.000" Score="2" ViewCount="1673" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaxYn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaxYn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Is there a good technique for repairing a zipper that is ripping apart from the lining? About 4 inches have torn away from the fabric and I really don't want to replace the whole zipper because it will disrupt the appearance of the coat. I'm wondering if I should just stitch the still-attached part more solidly to the fabric to prevent further ripping, or if I can get enough of the remaining fabric on the zipper re-attached to the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(apologies for any lack of etiquette here, first time posting in Arts &amp;amp; Crafts!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6544" LastEditorUserId="6544" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T15:19:17.160" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T22:07:56.560" Title="How to sew a ripping zipper back on" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5770" CreationDate="2019-01-04T00:08:11.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/5775/416&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;user18894&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is correct in that the quality of your media is reflected in the quality of the art work but there are some other things you could consider. First the paper you use is very important. You should try something with more &quot;tooth,&quot; that is roughness, that can grab the pastels and add texture to the drawing. Any plate paper, one that is perfectly smooth, will not do well with oil or any other type of pastel. Invest in a few sheets of charcoal or pastel or even water color paper and you will see a difference right away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else that comes to mind is that you could mix and layer different colors together to get much more developed and interesting effect. The trees are the most successful part of the drawing your posted, and they show the most complexity in the use of color and tone. You are right about cooler colors receding and showing distance, but you could put more work into the mountains as far as variety of color and detail while keeping it light. The foreground grass is the least developed where as it should be the most detailed or developed. It is the closest to our eye so our brain expects there to be more there, more contrast, more solidity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there are some color conventions like the fact that shadows, as under the trees, are cooler in color than lit areas. For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=maxfield%20parrish&amp;amp;num=30&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjZv9CR59LfAhUKhOAKHYYKD0oQ_AUIDigB&amp;amp;biw=1460&amp;amp;bih=821&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maxfield Parrish&lt;/a&gt; made extensive use of saturated color temperature in his work. Studying the work of professional artists that you may aspire to and analyzing their methods would help you with your own technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a good start here effectively modeling form and distance with color and tone. You just need to keep developing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T00:08:11.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5435" CreationDate="2019-01-04T12:11:12.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case anyone wonders how I end up to manage this, the &quot;solution&quot; was much simpler than I thought. I have just put the bouquet into the box and I have used a lot of tissue paper to fill any gaps and also on the top.&#xA;I have sent over 10 parcels now and every one arrived perfect :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6069" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T12:11:12.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5750" CreationDate="2019-01-04T16:13:45.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you planning on using the tiny paper type oil pastels or moving up to oil sticks to work on the canvas? Despite the approved answer I would hesitate to use spray fix on oil pastels and definitely not use it with oil sticks on canvas. The small oil pastels used for drawing on paper may not dry as fast as oil sticks since they need to stay soft in between uses, but they are still far less fragile than traditional dry pastels. They do not raise dust for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil based materials will provide their own protection unlike dry pastels. Dry pastels need the fixitive to provide extra binding since they are basically powder bound by a weak water based binder. Oil pastels and oil sticks are bound by &lt;strong&gt;drying oils&lt;/strong&gt; that will become solid over time. Furthermore, the solvents in the spray fix may react with the oils binding the pigment leading to bleeding and discoloration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treat them just like you would oil paints on canvas. Use varnish to protect them after &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; drying period, at least a month or so for varnish, though they should be resistant to smudging within a few days and dry within a couple of weeks. The time to varnish is after the pigments have long been dry to the touch and is optional anyway, just offers an extra layer of protection and makes it easier to clean the work should it be needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you need to prepare raw canvas for oils or else the oil based binder may attack the canvas over time (many years) and make it weak and it may absorb into the canvas an cause staining around the colors. So the canvas needs to be coated with gesso or clear ground like rabbit skin glue or clear matte acrylic medium. Pre-stretched canvasses will have this done already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt; - oil pastels and oil sticks (better for canvas) are very different from dry pastels which require fixative. They are not dusty and will provide their own protection from smudging if allowed time to set up and dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T16:13:45.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2019-01-04T21:31:56.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also if you don’t want it smudge when putting it in a book or a pile of other papers try using baking paper over the top to stop it transferring onto other pages/paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6532" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T21:31:56.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5742" CreationDate="2019-01-05T00:37:22.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can definitely recommend a fine asian &lt;strong&gt;gel pen&lt;/strong&gt; (kind of rollerball). It is precise and very easy to use, unlike many other tools I've tried so far.&#xA;It's a perfect affordable tool for detailed drawings, like miniatures, doodling, pattern fillings, i.e. things that require precise, &#xA;fine strokes and points. Of course one can draw anything, but bigger areas will take some time to fill them out. &#xA;0.5 mm is the most common stroke width for handwriting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For serious work a lot of ink is needed, so I personally use and recommend pens with &lt;strong&gt;standard-sized mass-produced refills&lt;/strong&gt;.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pens: for a start go for something like Muji or Muji clone:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tp74U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tp74U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image above shows Muji clone - these are compatible with standard asian refills (13 cm). Original Muji are maybe better quality, but I am not sure about refills' compatibility--- I think original ones require some special sized original refills. &#xA;Note: I don't recommend or not recommend this brand, it is just an example for quicker understanding of choice aspects.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy all such thing online e.g. on Aliexpress. Search for e.g. &quot;gel pen refills&quot;. Beware that the quality may vary. Buying small amounts by different sellers is a good strategy to find good quality product.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 most common asian refill sizes, below is a photo for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p4X5Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p4X5Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer one at the bottom (~13 cm) is the &lt;strong&gt;most common&lt;/strong&gt; standard asian refill and it can have needle tip or bullet tip. Needle tipped pens can have finer stroke--- 0.38 mm, but that depends, you must test to see.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These 13 cm refills are always available by various sellers on Aliexpress, and can be found in different colors.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ko6Ku.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ko6Ku.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shorter one (~11 cm) has a bigger volume, lasts longer, but I have seen them only with black/red/blue ink, 0.5-0.7 mm stroke. &#xA;Also I believe this type is more likely to be found in Europe &amp;amp; US shops.&#xA;It might have different design, e.g. come in a metal case:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCFaP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCFaP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Ink consistency &amp;amp; permanence&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher price and known brands might be better in this regard, but anyway, always test it before buying big amounts. &#xA;Possible problems: bad ink consistency or ball defects. Too fluid ink is hard to work with especially for detailed drawings. This can result in daubs, uneven strokes, etc. Too viscous ink is also bad, because you will need to apply pressure to draw, and that is even worse &#xA;than too fluid ink--- pens with too fluid ink can be at least used to roughly fill big areas. Good test is to make dots on a paper - just gently touch and release the tip on the surface - fine, equally sized dots should appear.&#xA;Most inks are permanent, but if you want to preserve the drawing, protect it from water and mechanical damage.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Colors&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding good colors is a real problem.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Usually there are 3 colors in mass production: black, blue, red. Green, violet, magenta are quite common too. Obviously black is the most demanded for drawing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Other colors are more rare/expensive. On Aliexpress colored pens/refills are sold in bundles, normally without specifec color choice. &#xA;For specific colors--- better try contacting the seller and ask.&#xA;For my work, I had problems finding good natural colors, like specific shades of brown and green.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also feasable to inject ink into the tube with a syringe - there are many good color inks sold in bottles for fountain pens, but I am not sure how it will work out. Currently I am planning some experiments with tube refilling, so maybe I'll update this answer in a while.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6534" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T00:37:22.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-05T03:33:11.260" Score="5" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;So... I'm new to candle making; I got some paraffin (nobody here sells soy wax), molds, stearic acid and other ingredients. Today I was trying the second candle I made; it was not a small candle at all, it was about 6cm x 10cm; I used about 240 grams of wax for it, plus stearate, color and fragrance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looked pretty ok, I light it a while ago, left home and when I came back roughly 5 hours later, I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SK37S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SK37S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;messy melted candle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what might be possible causes for this? What did I do wrong? One thing I know for sure I did different from another candle I made a while ago is this time I used a somewhat thicker wick. Could that be the reason? Was that one of many contributing factors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6549" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T02:12:23.360" Title="Paraffin candle burnt (or rather melted) WAY too quickly?" Tags="|wax|candle-making|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5794" CreationDate="2019-01-06T06:24:21.067" Score="4" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been teaching myself wet on wet expressionist style oil painting lately and my landscapes, cities look awesome. But...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I go to add some small detail in amongst the fray, particularly people and other non geometric objects, they end up blobs of mixed colour. With a knife, you can scrape a shape to clarify  confusing details, but small, complex objects are just hard... especially people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the colours didn't just merge with the background, people would be easy, but they don't obey me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob Ross says use thinned paint to paint over the background, but this doesnt seem to work all that well for people :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6LYI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per request, here is one of my paintings. A small representation of an ancient city. I finished it dissatisfied that there were no people in amongst a city, and so wanted to add them to give some nice perspective, but never intended for them to take over. However, the first reaction my brother had was 'what is that?' - and I would agree. I wanted them to be dark blue to fit with the theme, but adding a dark blue figure (and her child) just blended straight into the wet background on the left, and thus in a last ditch effort I repainted the character on the left in grey with loads of thinned oil paint and tried to add small blotches of skin tone to the face in order to push the concept of a person. Nevertheless I am pretty displeased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of her blobby she got, it became hard to give her a reasonable pose or make her look.. Good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the right a couple are (supposed) to be walking away from the audience, but really they are nondescript blobs. They fit in with the colours, but with no discernible features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKa5z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I'm too picky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6551" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T15:38:44.100" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T20:39:08.287" Title="How to paint rough but distinguishable people with oil paints?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5793" CreationDate="2019-01-06T16:03:55.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things to consider, that I can think of at the moment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This merging with the background and the blobs are actually the charm of the technique. You either learn to use it to your advantage or find a technique that serves your means better. (You can mix techniques, too, of course.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, wet-on-wet works better on larger scale canvases because of the smudge-like nature of the technique.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For applying paint in detailed manner get a fine brush, either flat of pointed. The ones I'm referring to are actually not meant to be used for oil (I think) but they work fine with it (as long as they are not the ones with ultra-soft bristles; all brushes for oil need to be fairly stiff). You will still have some mearging with the background, though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can add fine details to your painting without the merging by letting the layer you've painted dry a bit and then paint on top (but this is not wet-on-wet).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6553" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T16:03:55.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-07T23:33:26.900" Score="1" ViewCount="4672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I swear, I have been drawing for years yet i still cant figure this one out. How exactly do i stop my finished pencil picture from smudging? I would appreciate anyone's help or ideas to the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6561" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T20:40:27.373" Title="How do I stop my finished pencil picture from smudging?" Tags="|drawing|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-01-08T21:12:07.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5795" CreationDate="2019-01-08T17:32:29.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can purchase a finishing spray from most craft/art stores that will prevent the surface from becoming smudged. You may find them under fixative spray if you google it. I also find it useful as you can continue to draw on top of the surface after spraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6564" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T17:32:29.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5793" CreationDate="2019-01-08T20:32:58.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When painting wet on wet and you want to add foreground elements like figures use contrasting areas of solidly blocked in color. You can use a pallet knife or a flat heavily loaded brush to layer it on over the background. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for your abstracted figures, break the form of the person you want to represent into colored shapes and trowel them on like you were covering a stucco wall or frosting a cake. That will work well with the loose look of the wet on wet, and if done without a lot of manipulation will prevent the forms from getting muddy or disappearing into the background. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counter intuitively you want to eliminate small details when painting the figures, else you risk them getting fussy and too realistic. You said it your self, the key is rough. The abstracted shapes and use of color will make them recognizable as figures, so avoid going too small with the brushes and marks, keep them in the same style as the rest of the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of the canvas is not that critical per the technique as long as you match the tool to the size of the mark you are creating. There are small pallet knives that I think are made for mixing watercolors that work well. A larger canvas will let you go larger with your gestures but you can make small impasto paintings too (and save some money in the process, paint is expensive!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T20:39:08.287" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T20:39:08.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5795" CreationDate="2019-01-08T20:40:27.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fixative spray will prevent most smudging. Use a permanent fixative for a finished work that you don't intend to rework at all. For an unfinished work, you can prevent smudging earlier layers by using a workable fixative. Always test on a small area first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hairspray is an easy, cheaper fixative alternative. This option is good for students and hobbyists, but is not archival quality and may affect an artwork negatively over time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Archival art/photo sleeves are good for preventing smudging as a result of rubbing against other artwork in storage or during handling. They are flat, clear bags that come in many sizes and have a resealable flap to keep artwork from sliding out. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Framing artwork behind glass will protect it from smudging even if you do not use any kind of fixative.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T20:40:27.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5763" CreationDate="2019-01-08T21:30:28.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conservation is tricky, and I highly suggest that you consult a professional as it is very easy to cause new damage through poor technique or by using incompatible materials. (For example, if you were to put acrylic paint over oil paint, the acrylic would become crackled and flake off due to gases released by the oil paint below. As a second example, if you applied oil paint directly to the exposed canvas, the oil would eventually cause the canvas to rot.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a professional, but I did take a course in painting conservation while studying abroad in Florence, so I can outline the basics of what a conservator may do to save your painting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Document original state and damage with photographs and notes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use UV light, xrays, or other methods to reveal aspects invisible to the naked eye. (ex. old varnishes, hidden layers, or specific elements indicative of which paint was used originally, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the surface and remove any old varnishes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treat the wood supports for insects if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the canvas itself is too fragile, it may be transferred onto a new canvas and carefully re-attached onto its stretcher bars. (A process of gluing the old canvas onto a compatible new canvas support).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To repair the cracking and missing sections, a thick plaster will be applied with a tiny spatula to fill the gaps. This will be scraped smooth with a scalpel and will be level with the original paint, making the surface appear smooth again. If the texture of the canvas or brushstrokes is evident in the surrounding areas, this will be imitated with the plaster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gouache is then applied to the plastered areas, but in a more saturated and lighter color that the original. This will be the base for the next step and keep the finished repair from looking dull.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colored varnishes applied with tiny brushstrokes will match the repaired areas with the original color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A clear varnish may be applied at the end if appropriate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T21:30:28.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2019-01-08T21:48:09.797" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember when I took art lessons when I was a kid. We would spray are drawings with non aerosol hairspray to keep them from getting smudged&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6568" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T21:48:09.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-09T21:05:09.317" Score="5" ViewCount="1683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of paintings being finished with a thin wax coat, but I didn't know if this could be done with oil paintings specifically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If wax is not compatible with dried oil paint, what other materials could be used to create a similar, even matte finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarification, I am asking if wax can be used in place of varnish on a finished, dried/cured oil-painting. If so, is there a specific kind of wax one would use in this circumstance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastEditorUserId="6565" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T14:32:43.433" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T02:00:48.393" Title="Can an oil painting be finished with wax to create a matte finish?" Tags="|medium-selection|oil-paint|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5748" CreationDate="2019-01-09T21:51:52.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Colorblindness should not impede an artist. &quot;Art&quot; is incredibly open, and you could be successful while avoiding color entirely if you wished. Many past and present day artists have overcome the obstacle of colorblindness in their creative expression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option, used by some, are to use special glasses that allow someone with colorblindness to see more color. One contemporary example is the artist Daniel Arsham. A full video interview, specifically about his experience using glasses as an artistic tool and approaching color as a color-blind artist can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://qz.com/quartzy/1116230/daniel-arsham-a-colorblind-artists-work-changed-with-his-new-glasses/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the article &quot;See Color&quot; on Quartzy&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, other artists are successful without such aids by avoiding color or realism altogether. Others still, let color-blindness lead their color choices resulting in unique and vivid styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said your specific interest is in &quot;nature, landscapes, surreal and futuristic / sci-fi art&quot;, and these themes suggest high color to create a sense of fantasy. As an example of a colorblind artist successfully working in this subject matter (without the aid of glasses like the first artist mentioned), I suggest taking a look at Mark Liam Smith for inspiration. He paints vividly multi-colored fantasy-based paintings. You can visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.markliamsmith.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mark Liam Smith's Website&lt;/a&gt; to see some of his work or watch a video interview at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://galerieyoun.com/en/artists/mark-liam-smith/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gallery Youn website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T21:51:52.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-09T22:20:19.577" Score="8" ViewCount="3933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working with a traditional egg-tempura technique that I was taught, but I have had some problems with the paintings later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recipe is essentially one egg-yolk (without the yolk's membrane) mixed with one spoonful of vinegar and one spoonful of water. Powdered pigments are then stirred into a small portion of this mixture at a time and applied with a small brush (usually between a 0 and a 2 to avoid bubbles and control the flow of the paint) to the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a year later some tiny dark spots appeared on the painting, that may be the result of egg mixture rotting. The recipient of the painting says that it could be from being stored in an outdoor unit exposed to heat over a summer, but I am worried that it could be my recipe or technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image shows my process in case that is useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFueM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFueM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Madonna &amp;amp; Child in traditional egg-tempera &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally the only main difference between my method and the traditional technique that I was taught is that I worked on a gessoed wood panel instead of a wood panel with a thin layer of plaster. (I'm including this information in case the relative porousness of the support could have affected the paint over time). (Note: The spots only appeared in the painted area, not in the gold leaf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T16:40:56.317" Title="How can I make egg-tempera that doesn't deteriorate?" Tags="|painting|preservation|pigments|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5803" CreationDate="2019-01-09T23:08:55.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pure beeswax is compatible with oil paint and you can use it as a top coat or &quot;varnish&quot; on oil paints to provide a matte finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also cold wax mediums and varnishes that you can use with oil paints. They are a mixture of solvent like mineral spirits or turps, pure beeswax, and resins, the same materials you use to make mediums and varnishes for oil painting with the addition of beeswax. These you can work cold mixed with oils, dry pigments, or as a top coat to get a matte finish. In my experience they work fine but do not have the same depth as encaustics. They will take longer to set but will be easier to work with and provide a stronger finish than pure wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The curious may want to look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Encaustic_painting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;encaustic painting&lt;/a&gt; which is painting with pigmented beeswax and gives a distinctive appearance of depth and translucency which using a wax varnish approximates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-02-09T02:00:48.393" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T02:00:48.393" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2019-01-10T00:12:42.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should never paint over oils with acrylics. The reason for this is that acrylics are essentially a plastic and not breathable. Oils, however, release gases over time. If you paint acrylics on top of oil, the released gases will cause the acrylic paint layer to crack and flake off as the gases try to escape. This result will be amplified in fresher oil paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, however, paint oil over oil and oil over acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T00:12:42.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5488" CreationDate="2019-01-10T14:59:14.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rubber cement is a good option for adhering paper without causing wrinkling. It is made of rubber and a solvent to keep it in a liquid state; as the solvent evaporates, the rubber remains behind, creating a flexible bond. Because rubber cement is not water based, paper cannot absorb water from the glue and cause wrinkles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber cement is applied with a brush. Some bottles even come with a small brush attached to the inside of the lid that is stored permanently inside the bottle. If you use your own brush, keep in mind that you will not be able to wash it out with water since it is not water based. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber cement is available in lots of sizes from 4 oz to 1 gallon. I would recommend a small bottle to test, then to purchase a large tin since your project is at a larger scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other useful attributes of rubber cement are that it allows for fairly easy removal if needed and once dried, drips or excess can be rubbed off easily without leaving marks behind. This can be done with a finger or a small rubber block (even an eraser if that's what you have on hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your convenience:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/ELMERS-No-Wrinkle-Rubber-Cement-234/dp/B001E6F2UC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1547131379&amp;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;keywords=rubber%20cement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon listing for 1 gallon Elmer's No-Wrinkle Rubber Cement&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T14:59:14.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4122" CreationDate="2019-01-10T15:52:09.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To continue with your current design, without changing the materials used for the original construction, I would recommend finding a suitable spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some spray paints are specifically designed to stick to metal surfaces, and you could find one of these in a color and sheen suitable to your project (dark brown, or black, with whatever level of shine you desire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to paint with acrylics on top of a spray painted surface without too much trouble. I suggest using a natural sea sponge to create the rust effect. The natural shape of the sponge will help keep the rust from looking too manufactured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find spray paint at a wide range of home improvement and craft stores. A quick search on the Home Depot's website turns up many options under $5, so the solution you are looking for should be fairly inexpensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Spray-Paint/Blacks/Browns-Tans/Metal/N-5yc1vZapz5Z1z0o7guZ1z13zm9Z1z1409i?NCNI-5&amp;amp;storeSelection=8456,1217,1248,1212,1261&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Home Depot page with spray paints, sorted by color and surface type specific to your project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastEditorUserId="6565" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T22:00:26.680" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T22:00:26.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5325" CreationDate="2019-01-10T16:18:13.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Food coloring is ideal for safe consumption, and when dying eggs, it's important to note that both the concentration of dye used and the length of time you leave the egg in the dye will affect saturation. An excellent addition to food coloring is to use beeswax to create white areas by resisting the dye. This is an excellent way to add contrast to your designs and a better alternative to painting white over the top of a dyed egg, as white paints often take many layers to fully cover a darker color. The beeswax is applied with a small tool, allowing for detailed designs like the ones pictured below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kALAl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kALAl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more kid-friendly option for creating wax-resist designs (and for adding color!) is to use crayons to draw designs onto the egg before dipping or submerging in dye. This will never look as tidy as the other method however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SxtA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SxtA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other safe options include edible metallic paints or glitter (often used in cake decoration) or even melting crayons with a hair dryer to create a dripping effect on the shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T16:18:13.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5537" CreationDate="2019-01-10T18:42:11.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For beading projects, the specific needles I have used are Size 10-13 Beading Needles. The longest one I have is 5.5 cm or just under 2 1/4 in. I had success  with these and used them to add extra beading into my wedding gown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific brand I have is Sew-ology. On the back of the package it says, &quot;Ideal for beadwork and sequins&quot;, so this is likely what you are looking for, although I am not familiar with the specific quilting needle you referenced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T18:42:11.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-11T20:00:52.383" Score="1" ViewCount="2904" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming they are all the same grade (let's assume professional grade to simplify the question), what makes one better for one purpose or another? I understand that there are a variety to choose from: mars black, lamp black, chromatic black, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone tell me what the attributes of the different blacks are? (transparency, warmth, typical uses, etc) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T17:38:32.153" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T09:39:16.597" Title="What are the differences between different black oil paints?" Tags="|painting|medium-selection|oil-paint|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5813" CreationDate="2019-01-12T04:08:01.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer would be too broad because the different black pigments have all different characteristics as other pigments have in terms of hue/temperature, intensity/tinting, transparency, even value and so on.&#xA;Here's what Winsor &amp;amp; Newton says about their acrylic blacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ivory Black is a brown black of moderate tinting strength recommended&#xA;  for general use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mars Black is a denser, more neutral black with stronger tinting&#xA;  power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lamp Black is a blue black that is lightfast, permanent and opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;same (more or less) applies to oils, thus for a detailed description it's better to focus on pigment(s) rather than names as they are not universal between manufacturers. This applies to other hues more severely. For much accurate details you can refer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/waterw.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Handprint&lt;/a&gt;. And a chromatic black behaves as the pigments it's made of, so you can have more control over its attributes knowing what you've mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3126" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T04:08:01.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-14T15:10:22.833" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a cheap micromotor or small dremel suitable for drilling, sanding and polishing jewelry and precious metals.&#xA;I'm not sure if it's possible to find something usable for under/around 100$ but it would be great if someone has recommendations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2752" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T17:02:14.357" Title="Affordable micromotor for jewelry" Tags="|tool-selection|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5820" CreationDate="2019-01-14T17:02:14.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;usable&quot; is relative.  I bought a perfectly functioning dremel-like tool off of AliExpress for under $30 and it came with bits for the activities you describe above, as well as a 3ft flexible shaft attachment.  It took weeks to get to me but works great, however I am constantly aware that if it should break, I'd be on my own.  Overseas support lines are beyond my patience threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not an endorsement.  I'm not even providing a product name or a link.  Just offering a source for what you are looking for and testimony about my own personal experience with that tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-01-14T17:02:14.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-15T18:25:56.370" Score="5" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve done my research and actually tried some of them but the end results are the same: wonky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m using needles specifically for knit fabrics, I have used a knit foot. I have tried adjusting the tension…I have also tried placing a paper underneath the fabric. They all failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ordered a walking foot online so I’ve yet to try that route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for the meantime, I thought I’d ask here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6591" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T12:52:54.900" Title="What is the best way to sew knit/stretchy fabrics?" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5829" CreationDate="2019-01-16T03:31:58.443" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;How easy would it be to cut an item like the one shown below on a laser cutter?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I might want to cut out such an item for Christmas.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As you can see I’m just decorating it with glitter at this point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hMezP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hMezPm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;turn light &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UUb2b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UUb2bm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T08:00:40.063" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T08:00:40.063" Title="How easy to cut a turn light?" Tags="|cutting|metal|woodworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5827" CreationDate="2019-01-16T03:58:29.750" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any home crafts regarding Easter besides eggs? Easter will be coming fairly soon calendar-wise after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T16:23:42.043" Title="Easter crafts, any besides eggs?" Tags="|tool-selection|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5826" CreationDate="2019-01-16T09:24:15.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Easter_bonnet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Easter bonnet&lt;/a&gt; is a fairly common activity for young children round here (encouraged by schools, nurseries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decorated planters for spring bulbs (e.g. daffodils) are quite popular gifts, requiring both craft and gardening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Closely related to eggs is baskets to put them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T09:24:15.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2019-01-16T15:00:31.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting out the truck and trees would be pretty straight forward.  Just find equivalent vector art in whatever format your laser likes.  Online trace and format transformation websites are available to help with that step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the truck and trees stand up, you will need to add a square tab to the bottom of each tire and to the base of the tree's trunk.  This tab will fit into slots which you cut in the disk portion of your project.  Inkscape is a free vector editing software which is good at making these kinds of modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure to measure the thickness of the wood you are cutting all this from, and use that as the width of the slots you are cutting in disk.  That way, the tabs which you have added to your upright pieces will fit snugly into those slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T15:00:31.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2019-01-16T15:30:32.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For soft, adjustable, with a firm connection, that won't hurt when you fall or kneel on it, you really only have one option: &lt;strong&gt;sew-on hook and loop fasteners.&lt;/strong&gt; Any other fastener option is going to be hard, with the exception of using laces with buttonholes (not grommets, which are also hard), but you've also specified issues with using laces in your post, and I do not know if you are comfortable with sewing buttonholes. Additionally, for a piece put under tension like a knee brace, anything other than the laces is going to be prone to separating under stress. In the case of the punch-in snaps you mentioned, they will often tear free from the fabric under tension, damaging your brace; in the case of the self-adhesive and iron-on hook and loop products, they will similarly detach under the tension needed for a brace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a reason commercial knee braces tend to use hook and loop fasteners, and that's because &lt;strong&gt;it's the best tool for the job.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you didn't offer any information on how you're constructing your brace, it's hard to know why you're having trouble, other than your description of using &quot;small patches.&quot; &lt;strong&gt;The smaller a piece gets, the more challenging it is to stitch in place&lt;/strong&gt;, and with hook and loop, smaller pieces also have less grip. Your best option to solve all of your issues is to &lt;strong&gt;use larger pieces&lt;/strong&gt;, which will both be easier to sew down, and will have a greater grip strength when closed up, thus offering greater support for your knee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are constructing a fairly standard brace with straps that wrap around the leg to hold it in place, you may want to &lt;strong&gt;consider double-sided hook and loop&lt;/strong&gt; (branded as Velcro One Wrap), which could be used with very minimal sewing, as it would take the place of the entire strap. This material is designed with the hooks on one side and the loops on the other, so that it will stick when wrapped around itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember as well that when you are adding whichever form of hook and loop you choose, to &lt;strong&gt;always have the hook portion positioned to face away from the body&lt;/strong&gt;, to avoid discomfort from any exposed hooks. Ideally, you would also set the strips within the borders of the fabric, as the edges can also be stiff and uncomfortable against the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T15:30:32.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5826" CreationDate="2019-01-16T20:41:53.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many motifs besides eggs that are closely related to Easter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Easter bunny and carrots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the lamb, sometimes in combination with other christian symbols&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the chick or chicken&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spring flowers like daffodils or forsythia (depending on your location)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could stitch these motifs on an embroidery project like a table cloth, a bag or sachet that is used to wrap gifts or as a picture framed by an embroidery hoop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just as well stamp these motives instead of stitching them, if you prefer paint rather than yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crafting and sending personal greeting cards is a nice tradition, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6565" LastEditDate="2019-01-17T15:20:27.723" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T15:20:27.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-16T21:30:00.053" Score="2" ViewCount="2036" Body="&lt;p&gt;so I ended up with a bunch of bright white card stock I want to print trifolds on. Since I want to use up this paper, is there anything I can get to add onto the paper AFTER the print job that will add gloss to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Want to see if I can DIY before I go and buy glossy paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points if there is something that I can add to the paper BEFORE printing (on an inkjet printer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried some basic Mod Podge, but haven't used the clear spray stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this for what it is worth: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hobbylobby.com/Scrapbook-Paper-Crafts/Glues-Adhesives/Liquid/Mod-Podge-Gloss/p/80649315?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImsKT5Z_z3wIVlR-tBh0vSwJ7EAQYAiABEgJZDfD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hobbylobby.com/Scrapbook-Paper-Crafts/Glues-Adhesives/Liquid/Mod-Podge-Gloss/p/80649315?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImsKT5Z_z3wIVlR-tBh0vSwJ7EAQYAiABEgJZDfD_BwE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6594" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T15:05:08.097" Title="I have a bunch of bright white cardstock. Is there something I can add to make it glossy like glossy card stock" Tags="|paper|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2019-01-16T23:10:10.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest iron-on soluble interfacing. That should keep the fabric stiff enough that it won't stretch while sewing (and suggested to use zig-zag stitch if using &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; stretchy stuff like spandex). When you're done sewing, just wash it and it'll dissolve in the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T23:10:10.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4257" CreationDate="2019-01-16T23:40:55.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Q1: I'd suggest sewing a layer of black nylon between. Black will block any light trying to shine &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the flag, and only allow light to be &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; the flag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2: Does the nylon need to be bonded before cutting? If the nylon is being heat-bonded to the flag (I'm assuming this is the same project), I would do a test run with some scraps: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wood board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aluminum foil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fabric (face-side down)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bonding material (interfacing?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a layer of wax paper and/or another of aluminum foil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;top it off with a wet rag &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and iron that fabric sandwich. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wood will keep everything still and help prevent slips or stretches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wood and foil should help keep the heat localized&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The layer above the adhesive should be something easily removable, like pulling a sticker off it's original waxy paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If using another layer of foil, it'll again just help direct that heat to whatever is under the foil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wet cloth is important, and perhaps keep some extra water handy -- heated water will not go above 212F, so as long as the cloth is wet, that's going to be the highest temperature you should be able to use. Most interfacing should melt at this temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're bonding nylon to nylon, just make sure that wherever you have exposed heat-bonding stuff you keep it covered with wax paper or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and if you're avoiding sewing altogether, just use the same heat-bonding stuff around the edges of the inside part of the overall flag. You could take the black nylon, cut it to the same shape as the other two faces of the flag, then heat-bond one face to the liner at the edges, then do a second round of heat-bonding (I'd suggest two separate ironings for this, you wouldn't want one face to only partially bond because it didn't get enough heat for the glue to melt)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T23:40:55.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5832" CreationDate="2019-01-17T00:03:25.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered using a high-gloss clear spray paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I would suspect that gloss = plastic to some degree, and an inkjet printer basically sets down ink droplets. If you print on glossy paper that's not specifically designed for inkjet printers, you might end up with a smear of ink. So I'd suggest do printing first, then if you use spray paint you could possibly do several pages at once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus perk of post-print gloss: inkjet ink doesn't always stay put (can be smeared by malicious fingers), so glossing the paper &lt;em&gt;afterwards&lt;/em&gt; will help seal that ink in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T00:03:25.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5832" CreationDate="2019-01-17T15:05:08.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alterations to the paper both before and after the print job could have negative effects. I suggest doing a test batch first so you don't ruin your entire supply. Thee option I find most likely to work is clear spray paint, but you would only want to apply this to the finished prints as sending something spray painted through your printer could gum up your machine. (Also, printer ink may not even dry properly without smearing on any shiny surface not designed for printing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AFTER the print job, I suggest letting your printed sheets fully dry before trying to apply the clear spray paint. If your ink is not fully dry first, the paint could cause the ink to bleed. When you spray the paint, be careful not to apply it too thickly or unevenly because thicker, wetter areas will likely make the corners of your paper curl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have one alternative suggestion, but it's more labor intensive. Thick paper can be dipped in clear melted wax to create a somewhat shiny surface finish. (I've seen this done with color photo prints with no detriment to the inked image for an art installation one of my peers created).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T15:05:08.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5826" CreationDate="2019-01-17T16:23:42.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blogs will be the best place to find an extensive lists of Easter crafts, but I have enumerated a small list of options that I find to be unique and aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FOR ADULTS &amp;amp; OLDER KIDS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) &lt;strong&gt;Resurrection Garden&lt;/strong&gt;. This project can be highly customized and created with real or fake plants or plants grown from seeds as parts of a longer project meant to be enjoyed and cared for over the Easter season. (Think moss, succulents, quick seeding grass or flowers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MpTtk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MpTtk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) &lt;strong&gt;Needle Felted Creatures&lt;/strong&gt;. For a more artistic adult, needle felting allows for crafting in 3 dimensions and is well-suited for creating small animals associated with Easter like bunnies or chicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2nDC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2nDC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.) &lt;strong&gt;Hand Embroidery&lt;/strong&gt;. For the detail-oriented, hand embroidery can be used to create an endless variety of Easter or Spring designs. These can be left in the hoop and displayed as-is or used in as a decorative embellishment in other fabric based crafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWLko.pngth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWLko.pngth&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FOR KIDS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) &lt;strong&gt;Easter Egg Bath Bombs&lt;/strong&gt;. With adult supervision, even younger kids can enjoy mixing up their favorite colors and packing them into molds to create vibrant stripes or other patterns to watch dissolve in their next bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcnyA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcnyA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) &lt;strong&gt;Felt Finger Puppets&lt;/strong&gt;. Finger puppets can be simple or highly intricate. For kids, stick with basic shapes. This craft works well as a teaching tool for introducing the basics of sewing as needles for sewing felt are not very sharp and are larger, making them easier for young ones to hold. For very young kids, drawing details with marker will be easier than stitching them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ao03g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ao03g.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.) &lt;strong&gt;Edible Easter Nests&lt;/strong&gt;. Kids can have fun getting a little messy shaping these cereal bars into edible nests and placing tiny candy eggs inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g1qXH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g1qXH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T16:23:42.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2019-01-17T17:47:55.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you pulling the fabric through the machine as you stitch, or are you pushing it through? I mostly sew with stiffer, woven fabrics, and have good luck gently guiding them through the machine from behind, but with a stretch fabric, it's important to make sure you're not pulling it through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does your presser foot have a pressure setting? My machine does, and I find lowering the pressure setting of the presser foot for thick and stretchy fabrics makes for a better outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T17:47:55.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-17T20:24:26.397" Score="2" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;For needle felting there are different types of needle points and different sizes to choose from. How do you select the right ones/what do they do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T08:43:54.847" Title="What is the purpose of different needle felting needles?" Tags="|tool-selection|felt|felting-needles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5784" CreationDate="2019-01-17T22:07:56.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the zipper tape has frayed, so there's not much left to stitch to. I think the best course of action would be three steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stabilize the fraying zipper tape &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinforce the fraying zipper tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-stitch the coat fabric to the zipper tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to tackle #1. I'd probably douse the frayed zipper tape in a significant amount of Fray Check, especially right around the area near the teeth just where the fraying starts. Then, dig out your mini iron, take some fusible web (Heat n Bond) and iron it to some woven fabric to make some stabilizer, or get some medium-to-heavy iron-on interfacing, and iron it to the fraying parts (and about-to-be-fraying parts) of the zipper tape, to reinforce them with extra strength before you try to re-stitch the zipper to the coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid that if you try to stitch it as it is now, there's not enough zipper tape to hold your stitching, and it'll pull right out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T22:07:56.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5434" CreationDate="2019-01-17T22:18:26.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget your cuff/waistband design. Will it be a 1x1 rib? 2x2 rib? Something else? And consider the amount of ease you want, not just your measurements and ultimate shape, when sizing. Do you want it to fit tightly? Baggy? In between? And since you're using worsted-weight yarn, you'll want a little more space in the underarm than you would if you were using a lighter yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you could do a raglan sleeve/shoulder the way you're describing it, not just a drop shoulder, so that might be another consideration. (I think raglan turtlenecks look really nice!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those cables are gorgeous. I really hope you'll come back and post your finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T22:18:26.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2019-01-18T13:56:44.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reusable &quot;sports wrap&quot; or &quot;sports tape&quot; will offer some support, and doesn't require hook and loop, or any hard materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The down side is, you can probably only reuse it a few times before you have to replace it with another piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One upside, it comes in lots of fun colors and patterns!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6599" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T13:56:44.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5583" CreationDate="2019-01-18T22:29:27.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to finish it is to cut the fabric so that just a little sticks out around the edges of the hoop. Fold this over the edge to the back, to the inside of the hoop and secure it to the inside edge with glue. (I would recommend hot glue for a quick hold, although you should take care as hot glue could burn you through the fabric.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the thickness of the fabric you are using, you may end up with more visible folds around the exterior edge of the hoop as the fabric wraps around, so you should take care to be consistent. Fold the fabric over itself the same direction each time and keep your folds equally spaced for the cleanest look. (Unless you fabric is very stretchy, it will be impossible to entirely avoid folds or creases since you are pulling fabric around a curved edge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T22:29:27.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-20T05:10:24.830" Score="4" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sOa4L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sOa4L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can the colour scheme of this painting be described in technical terms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grayscale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low saturation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or something else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a background in art; I find that I'm unsuccessful in describing this painting's colouring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6606" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T17:34:36.043" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T17:34:36.043" Title="How can the colour scheme of this painting be described (in technical terms)?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5855" CreationDate="2019-01-20T08:04:20.893" Score="4" ViewCount="774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Liquitex basic Black acrylic. I’m simply pressing the tube and draw thick lines directly on the canvas. No brushing, no palette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let it dry but after a few days the result is very shiny and when I pass the finger over it there is a kind of oily layer. I can definitely see it on my finger after touching the “dried” paint but it has no pigment in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is surprising is that I don’t get this with green or red, and I get it less with yellow from the same liquitex collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is wrong with the paint? Could it be linked to the humidity in the air ? (I live in a very humid place)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6607" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T08:40:35.237" Title="Acrylic paint is becoming oily when drying" Tags="|paint|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5848" CreationDate="2019-01-20T09:50:32.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say &lt;strong&gt;Old White High Contrast Monochrome Painting&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wacfi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wacfi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C5MACD_enFR506FR507&amp;amp;biw=1744&amp;amp;bih=1249&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=KENEXO7mNPWDjLsP7M-s4Ao&amp;amp;q=old%20white&amp;amp;oq=old%20white&amp;amp;gs_l=img.3..35i39j0i67j0l8.4719.4719..4808...0.0..0.65.65.1......1....1..gws-wiz-img.VfQRSpfXoeg#imgrc=_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Old white Google search&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b24sm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b24sm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greystone High Contrast photograph by &lt;a href=&quot;https://fineartamerica.com/featured/greystone-high-contrast-william-vivian.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;William Vivian&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C5MACD_enFR506FR507&amp;amp;biw=1744&amp;amp;bih=1249&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=LkNEXKeAHs2wgweHgYagBA&amp;amp;q=high%20contrast%20monocrhome&amp;amp;oq=high%20contrast%20monocrhome&amp;amp;gs_l=img.3...117553.122343..122647...0.0..0.147.1638.23j1......1....1..gws-wiz-img.......35i39j0j0i67j0i8i30.U4GTnPysqRA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;High Contrast Monochrome Google search&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2019-01-20T10:00:01.223" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T10:00:01.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5848" CreationDate="2019-01-20T11:29:46.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We used to call this &quot;sepia&quot; back in college. It referred to the colour of old yellowed black-and-white photographs. I don't know if it is an official term, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6608" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-01-22T16:58:55.967" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T16:58:55.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5866" CreationDate="2019-01-20T16:29:00.763" Score="2" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what is the proper type of machine stitching for elastic materials(nylon, etc), to get as close as possible to Nike running(clothes not shoes) gear stitching? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some research(and got the idea of zigzag being a proper choice), but it is not as close as the &quot;double-stitching&quot; seen on some running articles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an idea how is that done? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later edit: I have also taken into consideration the idea of using a machine with more than 1 needle(maybe this is required for a more complex/durable stitch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1960" LastEditorUserId="1960" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T10:25:46.780" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T16:49:21.457" Title="What type of stitch is a perfect fit for elastic materials (as close as possible to Nike's sport gear for running)?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5857" CreationDate="2019-01-20T17:09:12.513" Score="3" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to DIY a pouch similar to the one shown in the &lt;strong&gt;first image&lt;/strong&gt; below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MlhhN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MlhhN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I cannot figure out how the pouch can be opened once the ribbon bow is attached to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bow was tied as in the &lt;strong&gt;second image&lt;/strong&gt;, we could untie the bow and open the pouch. But, since the bow in the first image is made and attached, I wonder how the pouch can be opened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second Image&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97YJG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97YJG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give an idea so as how the pouch in &lt;strong&gt;first image&lt;/strong&gt; is made? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(All images above are rightfully owned by the respective creators. I am simply trying to create something similar for personal use.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="123" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T17:21:24.440" Title="How are these pouches opened" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5848" CreationDate="2019-01-21T13:00:36.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Greyscale&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The contrast is due to the scene, not the style. The small amount of coloring is in all probability due to the used white and black pigments not being completely neutral, or other pigmented residue on the materials used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T13:00:36.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5849" CreationDate="2019-01-21T15:25:36.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think anything is &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt; with your paints. I have experienced it as well at times, even though I rarely work with acrylics.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic paints go through different stages when drying, slowly forcing all of their 'volatiles' (water and co-solvents) out. But even after drying it will hold a relatively large amount of water, that can still increase and decrease:&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a level of incomplete coalescence causes acrylic films to be somewhat&#xA;  porous, leaving channels that run along the walls of the hexagonally&#xA;  deformed particles. These pores are then passageways for water to move&#xA;  in and out of the film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This occurs more prominently in environments with higher humidity, since the evaporation process will be inhibited. &lt;strong&gt;This inhibition might cause water escaping from the paint to remain on the outer film of the paint&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another possible cause is condensation&lt;/strong&gt;: the water vapour of the humid environment turns to a liquid state as it meets the water escaping the paint film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;As for the differences in the forming of a wet layer on the skins of the various pigments, I think they might be attributed to them reacting differently to temperatures, or altering drying times. More likely, however, is that the batches have varying proportions of water, pigments and additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The quote was taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.justpaint.org/investigating-the-drying-process-of-acrylic-color-and-gel-medium/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; page on justpaint.org. It offers a good overview (of the different stages) of drying acrylic paint.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T15:25:36.413" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4104" CreationDate="2019-01-21T17:11:44.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way to make Prismacolor pencils look vibrant is to entirely saturate the area you are trying to color in. In your drawing, you color large swaths of paper quickly, pressing lightly with the pencil. If you want this medium to look good, you will have to press harder with the pencils to fully saturate the area you are coloring. Additionally, you may want to experiment a bit more with blending. You can achieve this by coloring lightly with Prismacolors and overlapping different colors where you want the blending to happen; then, gradually build up the saturation until the transition looks right. (You can also use a clear blending pencil for this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image showing the effect of making a gradient with one pencil vs making the same gradient but using a blender. You can use this effect for gradients, color transitions, and just making solid colors look smooth and velvety on the page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/faSDv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/faSDv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, based on the art samples you put on your post, I suggest making much smaller drawings for practice, as you will find Prismacolor is more labor intensive when you are fully saturating the areas you are coloring. I suggest trying an area about the size of a photograph for your next drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T17:11:44.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5853" CreationDate="2019-01-21T17:21:24.440" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;1). The decorative bow could be on an elastic band that is closing the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2). The bow is attached to a pin that is holding the bag closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3). There is a drawstring inside the bag at the close. The bow is only attached to the top layer, not sewn through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4). The maker attached little magnets inside the bag that keep it closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is entirely possible that the particular image you shared is not meant to be opened. It could be a bag of potpourri, meant to look pretty and go in a sock drawer, but never to be opened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6565" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T17:21:24.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4104" CreationDate="2019-01-23T16:45:04.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Nothingismagick says make sure you're drawing what you see not what you mind says the object is.  And make sure when you &quot;see&quot; something you're really looking at it.  A simple example - a plate is round, that's what my mind tells me.  But more often than not when you draw a plate you're drawing an ellipse, not a circle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The eye you drew - the white is very seldom pure white.  Think of the location and shape of the eye - the eye is under the brow, recessed so often the white part is shaded somewhat, and since it's a sphere as you approach the corners of the eye they are going deeper below that brow and getting slightly, ever so slightly darker.  And what are the proportions of pupil to iris to white area showing in respect to each other.  You start to understand that by observing, really looking at your subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw loosely at the start not committing to hard lines - it will look sloppy but you can always erase what you don't want.  I'd use (and I do) simple lead pencils to sketch out drawings.  Whether they are for paintings or just a sketch on it's own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw simple items to start - human figures or even parts of the body are by no means a simple drawing exercise.  Simple still lifes are good starts - to this day I will find myself drawing an apple just to contemplate the shape and how to define the form with shading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you want to start drawing human figures/parts search online for the masters and how they sketched items - Da Vinci, Michelangelo it's amazing how they represented figures with simple lines, very few lines in some cases.  Study what they do to represent an eye.  And always notice how form comes from shading - variations of a hue if you're using color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also do you have any formal training?  There are tons of tutorials online to help beginners and advanced folks - take advantage of them.  And if you draw something and don't like it try to figure out exactly why you don't like it - then throw it away and try again.  I can literally sketch the same subject 50 times before I approach what I want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been drawing a long time and hopefully my suggestions help.  Good luck and keep trying it will come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T16:45:04.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5863" CreationDate="2019-01-24T09:08:33.187" Score="2" ViewCount="2267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create an oil painting on paper and I have already made the underdrawing.  Now I want to gesso the paper to make it suitable for applying oil paint. On the description of my clear acrylic gesso it says to thin with water before appplying to an absorbent surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is paper considered absorbent? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, what should be the ratio of gesso to water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, what is the highest amount of water I can add to acrylic gesso and still obtain a surface suitable for painting with oil colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-01-25T02:08:34.037" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T22:28:36.930" Title="How to apply acrylic gesso on paper?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5864" CreationDate="2019-01-24T09:33:08.130" Score="5" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished a charcoal drawing and want to paint over it with a clear coating (of acrylic gesso). For that I first used a fixative so that the drawing will not smudge when I apply gesso with a Brush. However, it seems that the fixative does not work the way I intended. The charcoal is still (after a couple of coatings with fixative) not fixed, meaning that when i slightly rub on the surface it leaves a trace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be the reason for my drawing not being fixed completely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that the fixative is not good? Do I have to apply a couple more coatings of fixative? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it even possible to fix a charcoal drawing in such a way that it is unsusceptible to rubbing or brushing? If yes, how can I achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-25T07:37:08.050" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T07:37:08.050" Title="What can I expect from a fixative?" Tags="|paper|preservation|charcoal|fixative|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5861" CreationDate="2019-01-24T11:55:02.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The absorbancy of paper is dependent on its weight&lt;/strong&gt;. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;For painting purposes, I suggest to use paper with a &lt;strong&gt;minimum weight of around 300 gsm&lt;/strong&gt; (or g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) and up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The ratio of water to gesso is more a personal preference&lt;/strong&gt;, since you will want to tape the paper to a flat surface.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;The proportion of water determines the coverage and texture. Since you want to use oil paints, this ground should not be too thin (usually, I don't thin the gesso down at all, but this is naturally dependent on the brand and type), but you can apply the gesso in multiple thinner layers, or one thicker one, if, for example, you would like to imitate a canvas-like structure (applying the gesso in a thick vertical and horizontal layer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As a rule of thumb, apply as much gesso as is needed to keep the paper from shining through&lt;/strong&gt;: it's a ground layer, the oil paint should not be able to come into contact with the paper directly, as this will eventually cause problems of both aesthetic and conservatory nature (as the oil will be absorbed by the paper)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T15:44:06.307" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T15:44:06.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5862" CreationDate="2019-01-24T12:14:44.020" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;strong&gt;it is absolutely possible to completely fixate the pigment on its support&lt;/strong&gt;, but there is a lot of difference in quality between brands and purposes. So, &lt;strong&gt;yes, you probably have a low-quality or inappropriate one&lt;/strong&gt; - assuming your support is not wet or too smooth, which can both impede the fixation.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;A couple of coatings is usually the recommended application. Apply the fixative evenly, about 30 cm perpendicular to the paper.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stumbled upon &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/2014/08/29/fixatives-are-not-all-the-same/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt; on jacksonart.org with an extensive comparison of several brands and types, offering information and insight in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T12:30:05.127" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T12:30:05.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5813" CreationDate="2019-01-24T15:28:00.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are two categories of blacks: carbon-based, and iron oxide-based.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;They have different general characteristics: the single iron-based one, Mars black, is opaque and fast-drying, whereas the carbon-based pigments - most other black pigments - are slow-drying (unless drying agents are added during the production process), and more transparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lamp black&lt;/strong&gt; (carbon -, smoke -, soot -, oil -, blue -, Germantown -, flame black / blacking / Pigment Black 6, PBk6)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;A blueish black. The fattest of the mentioned blacks.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Originally made from the soot that would accumulate on lamps, and currently still made using pure carbon: especially the more traditional recipes might contain impurities that increase drying time, so umber often was used as a drying agent. After charcoal black, it has the highest transparency.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carbon black&lt;/strong&gt; (Pigment Black 7, PBk7)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Today, PBk7 is made today by burning coal or natural gas, but is traditionally derived from carbonising plant matter, like in the production of charcoal. Paints made with PBk7 are usually very opaque and have a high tinting strength thanks to the small, dense pigment particles. PBk7 can range from neutral to cool in temperature.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I found this to be the most neutral of the blacks I've tried to find (i.e. PBk7—&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;carbon black&amp;quot; (see note below)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vine black&lt;/strong&gt; (charcoal -, yeast -, grape -, kernel -, drop -, cork -, mare -, Spanish -, German -, Frankfort -, blue black /  Pigment Black 8, PBk8)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;A pigment made from pyrolyzed vegetable sources (originally grapevines), but with lower intensity and tinting strength than ivory or lamp black.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Charcoal black&lt;/strong&gt; (peach -, vegetable -, vine -, birch -, blue -, soft -, willow -, beech black / Pigment Black 8, PBk8)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Light, most transparent of blacks, brownish black, with very low tinting strength.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;High transparency and low density are probably due to the relatively large particles (a personal guess). Best charcoal blacks are made from even-textured wood species. It is known that Rubens used charcoal to colour his imprimaturas grey. Note that the name is also used as an umbrella-term for all carbon-based blacks. I name this pigment in addition to 'vine black' as it is available as a high-transparency alternative.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ivory black&lt;/strong&gt; (bone -, Paris -, Frankfort -, German black / abaiser / Pigment Black 9, PBk9)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A brownish, (semi-)transparent, high-density black.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Has the most immoral history of the blacks, but is nowadays produced from the bones of 'regular' animals (mixed with Prussian blue). Most common black, and best suited for general use. Note that the traditional recipe is blueish with a yellow undertone, begging the question if the contemporary one is actually mainly carbon-based.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mars black&lt;/strong&gt; (black iron oxide / magnetic oxide / Mapico black / Pigment Black 11, PBk11)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Opaque, fast-drying, slightly warm but most neutral of the common blacks, with high drying agency, and really high tinting strength (best among its colour). Leanest of the blacks.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Named after a 18th century company (named after the Greek god of war); now synonymous for synthetic iron oxide pigments (compare e.g. mars red).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All aforementioned pigments have excellent light-fastness.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chromatic blacks&lt;/strong&gt; are, as the name implies, non-black pigment-containing mixes, that usually combine two complimentary colours. There are several kinds, most likely differing per manufacturer in transparency, temperature, tone, density, &amp;amp;c. I have no experience with these, but can imagine you can find a chromatic black for most specific purposes.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Deep blacks can also be mixed using transparent hues. A beautifully rich, transparent, dark black can be obtained by mixing either ultramarine blue with burnt umber, or quinacridone rose with emerald green or a blue like Prussian, phtalo, or ultramarine (which are also great for glazing). An advantage of this is that it's relatively easy to bring the mix to a warmer or cooler black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you probably immediately noticed, &lt;strong&gt;naming conventions are a mess&lt;/strong&gt;. Because of the long history of pigment creation traditions and methods, monikers often are shared among distinct pigments. The most accurate way to talk about pigments is to refer to them by their &lt;a href=&quot;https://colour-index.com/colour-index-generic-name&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Colour Index Generic Name&lt;/a&gt; (CIGN) Code.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Changing recipes also mean variable characteristics, so the information in this list unfortunately should be taken with a grain of salt. In this sense, &lt;em&gt;user174174&lt;/em&gt; is right in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/5814/6388&quot;&gt;their answer&lt;/a&gt; as well: to get specific information, it's best to consult the web or manufacturer's website for the specific series and pigment.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;That being said, this overview might serve as a guideline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;Sources:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Main_Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artiscreation.com/black.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.artiscreation.com/black.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trueart.info/?page_id=122&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.trueart.info/?page_id=122&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/blackest-blacks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/blackest-blacks/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boekenwebsite.nl/kunst-schilders/het-schilderij-materiaal-techniek-behoud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knut Nicolaus; The Painting: Material, Technique, Restoration; 1981&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://artrelatedblog.wordpress.com/2012/06/28/color-theory-thursday-black/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://artrelatedblog.wordpress.com/2012/06/28/color-theory-thursday-black/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/2020/11/27/exploring-the-differences-between-black-pigments/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/2020/11/27/exploring-the-differences-between-black-pigments/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-07T09:39:16.597" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T09:39:16.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5852" CreationDate="2019-01-24T16:35:38.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stitching a stretchy fabric requires a &lt;strong&gt;stretch stitch&lt;/strong&gt;, to allow the seam to stretch with the fabric itself. Multiple types of stretch stitch are available to the home sewer, though some require specialized machines to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ZigZag Stitch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back and forth motion of the needle in doing a zigzag stitch allows the seam to have some give and stretch with the fabric. The more back and forth, the more stretch, so shorter stitches will provide more flexibility. This can be achieved with &lt;strong&gt;any basic sewing machine&lt;/strong&gt;, and is the most accessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stretch Stitch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some machines will have a &quot;lightning bolt&quot; shaped stretch stitch setting. This is similar to a zigzag, but with an extra step backwards to add even more give to the stitch. It will also look closer to a straight line than a zigzag. This is the next most accessible, as it's available on many, but not all, &lt;strong&gt;standard sewing machines&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Twin Needle Stitch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stitch will require a special double needle to be added to your machine; you'll also thread it with both a spool and a bobbin of thread at the same time, separating the threads when you reach the needle. The upper layer will have a double row of stitching, while underneath the bobbin will have a zigzag format allowing the seam to stretch. &lt;strong&gt;This is likely the closest to what you're looking for&lt;/strong&gt;, and can be accomplished with most &lt;strong&gt;standard sewing machines&lt;/strong&gt;. (I cannot promise that the twin needles will be compatible with all machines.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overlock&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overlock stitching is what is often seen on the inside of commercially produced garments; it's a stitch with loops of thread wrapping around the raw edges of the fabric. It has a very large amount of stretch, but requires a specific machine (known as either &lt;strong&gt;an overlock machine or a serger&lt;/strong&gt;), and is only useable on inner seams, as sergers also trim the edge of the fabric as they work. While the trimming can typically be deactivated, the edge wrap still leaves the machine only suitable for seams, not top-stitching. (As an anecdotal note, this is what I most often use for stretchy fabrics.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cover Stitch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is likely what Nike and other companies are actually using. This requires &lt;strong&gt;a cover stitch machine or a convertible serger&lt;/strong&gt;. The stitch produced is something of a cross between the twin needle and overlock stitches, and is suitable for hems and top stitching on stretchy materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see examples of these stitches and greater detail (as well as finding a link with details on twin needle stitching) &lt;a href=&quot;https://mellysews.com/2017/02/types-stretch-stitches-sewing-knits.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which is also where I took the order of stitches and some technical details from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T16:49:21.457" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T16:49:21.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4149" CreationDate="2019-01-25T17:06:08.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is cold pressed water colour paper and hot pressed. Cold pressed has some texture to it. If you like a smoother paper, get the hot pressed, it has a much smoother texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Id suggest getting artist grade papers in at least 140lb. I like both Arches and Fabriano Artistico Hot Pressed 140lb. If you buy paper in the large sheets from an art store and cut it down to size it ends up being a better value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ive has some luck with the Fabriano Artistico Studio grade paper in pads, it comes in both cold pressed and hot pressed. Its a great quality paper for practice and learning and is a bit cheaper than the artist grade papers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6618" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T17:06:08.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5872" CreationDate="2019-01-27T01:01:06.040" Score="4" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a super durable shirt and I want another like it, but I bought it over 10 years ago.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;It's 100 % cotton and is a Reebok NBA &quot;Hardwood Classics&quot; shirt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2kifG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6625" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T17:12:22.647" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T17:00:41.457" Title="What type of weave is this?" Tags="|fabric|knitting|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5870" CreationDate="2019-01-27T07:56:51.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front looks like standard knitting (stockinette stitch).The picture quality of the back is too low to say for sure, but it looks similar to how the backside a stockinette stitch should look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basic_knitted_fabrics#Stockinette/stocking_stitch_and_reverse_stockinette_stitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stockinette stitch&lt;/a&gt; is the most basic stitch and used for most machine-knitted fabrics. You find it in almost all t-shirts, sweaters, socks and other knitwear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notable difference of your picture to that of most knitwear is that the right side of every stitch is twined so much that it appears to be one continuous line. This is a sign of quality because the single fibers of a yarn cannot be pulled from it easily if it's twined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So my guess is this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The fabric is knit by machines in the stockinette stitch like almost all knitted fabrics, but the manufacturer used high-quality twine instead of cheap thread.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison: This is how a stockinette stitch looks like with yarn that was not twined. The regular V-shapes of the individual stitches are clearly visible.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22p7o.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basic_knitted_fabrics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this yarn was slightly twined. It's the same pattern, but the stitches seem to blend together into rows of vertical and diagonal lines.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/COLNS.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woolandthegang.com/blog/2016/04/how-to-knit-a-crazy-sexy-pouf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-03-03T17:00:41.457" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T17:00:41.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5874" CreationDate="2019-01-28T16:16:30.397" Score="0" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stumbled upon this photo of Bourguereau:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ts8fD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ts8fD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bouguereau painting in his studio&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I have two questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I tried finding the finished painting but I didn't find it. I used this keywords: pregnant, virgin, saint. No clue of the painting. What's the name of this painting?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I can see that the right side of the canvas is already painted. Did Bourguereau painted by grid cells or similar? or is not the same painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6632" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T15:35:30.330" Title="Bouguereau painting" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-02-07T15:35:42.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5873" CreationDate="2019-01-28T16:27:33.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your picture is incomplete at the top. There are two different canvases superimposed, behind a finished painting and a drawing at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abPTQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abPTQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the painting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngQ2L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngQ2L.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Visitation&lt;/em&gt;, «La Visitation», William Bouguereau (1825-1905)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the painting behind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4u2oj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4u2oj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Flight into Egypt&lt;/em&gt;, «La Fuite en Égypte», William Bouguereau (1825-1905)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both paintings are in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.patrimoine-histoire.fr/Patrimoine/Paris/Paris-Saint-Vincent-de-Paul.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saint-Vincent-de-Paul&lt;/a&gt; church, Paris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2019-01-28T20:30:48.663" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T20:30:48.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-01-29T00:25:24.003" Score="0" ViewCount="1743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a little drawing which I accidentally dropped on a floor which must have been loaded with tons of bacteria. To make matters even worse, I had a hard time picking it up, so it must have been on the dirty floor for a good 30 seconds or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I was wondering if it would be possible to disinfect my paper drawing so that I can kiss it without worrying about getting sick. (It's a drawing of the Blessed Virgin Mary, so I often kiss her feet in veneration.) Of course, washing the image with soap and water is out of the question, as that would basically destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thought I had was to heat up the paper image to kill the germs, but how would I do that? Is it possible to do that without destroying/deforming the image?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I'm on the right .SE site to ask this question. (If not, please tell me where to go.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6635" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-01-29T17:17:47.123" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T17:17:47.123" Title="How to get germs off of paper?" Tags="|paper|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2019-01-30T17:29:12.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5880" CreationDate="2019-01-29T02:54:29.953" Score="1" ViewCount="1276" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm making a portable mini pen which will need short pen refills. But I can't really find short pen refills on the market, the shortest one I found has the length of 2.6in (66mm) which if you look at your ruler you'll notice 6cm is quite long for a mini pen that'll stay on a keychain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I want to ask if anyone of you know where to buy super short pen refills? The shorter the better (it should be at least shorter than 2in/50mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6636" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T17:59:18.427" Title="Where can I find super short pen refills?" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5876" CreationDate="2019-01-29T04:35:08.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be to laminate the picture at a local print shop.  That would seal whatever has gotten onto the paper behind an impermeable barrier of clean plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring that, you can probably get rid of most of the bacteria by exposing your drawing to ultraviolet light.  UV light is used in many industries as a disinfectant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the amount of time that your picture spent on the floor, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODfbaZ9_XzQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MythBusters&lt;/a&gt;, time isn't as important as it appears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T04:35:08.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5877" CreationDate="2019-01-29T08:19:40.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get standard refills.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use them with your standard pencils until the ink does not reach the point where you can cut them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut them to the desired length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can use any refills from used pens you already have around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6637" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T08:19:40.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5877" CreationDate="2019-01-29T17:59:18.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be hard-pressed to be able to find a term or type of supplier than easily allows you to purchase the refills of the correct length. They're likely specialty pieces being manufactured directly by the companies making novelty products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;it's possible to cut disposable refills down to your desired length&lt;/strong&gt; (as long as they aren't the metal-case refills) using a sharp utility knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpAiMTXJ0Uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY Hacks and How-Tos&lt;/a&gt; video demonstrates cutting the disposable refills down to size. As you can see from the video, &lt;strong&gt;even cutting mid-ink doesn't cause the ink to spill out&lt;/strong&gt;. There is a little spillage on the tip from the process, but that should be all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why this works, is because the ink is already prone to staying inside the refill tube. &lt;strong&gt;There are 3 main things keeping the ink in the tube&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The viscosity of the ink. It is thick and does not &quot;like&quot; to flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The surface tension of the ink. It has a high surface tension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The adhesive force between the ink and the tube itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These all combine to make the ink not want to flow backwards out the tube, even when cut. The surface tension and adhesive force is strong enough to resist the flow of gravity (as seen by the fact that you can buy a pack of point-up pens that have been hanging for months, and there's no spillage). The adhesive force is actually strong enough to make the surface of the ink concave instead of convex (if you've even done the trick with filling a cup with water over the brim without spilling, you'll notice the result is a convex surface). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're only adjusting the &lt;em&gt;length&lt;/em&gt; of the refill tube, you are not changing any of the 3 properties listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can buy standard refills and cut them to length. Just make sure to clean the ends of both pieces, and properly dispose of the end without the ballpoint. If you'd like, you can also extra the ink from the extra ends to play around with. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/qRNuyIflhLs?t=98&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The King of Random extracted ink&lt;/a&gt; from 1000 pens for this purpose. I link the video as extra evidence that the ink doesn't just leak out, even when they remove the ballpoint, but they had to physically push it out with a rod small enough to fit in the cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2019-01-29T17:59:18.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-01T12:54:25.693" Score="1" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sketching an ink drawing. It's going to be black and white cityscape with a sun in the background. The perspective is twisted and I have no idea how I should place the line between the part which is lit by the sun and the dark side. Does anyone have an idea? I attached the original sketch and my ideas beneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sketch:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2v3X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2v3X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My attempt:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dp5Y8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dp5Y8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Attempt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6653" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T00:44:40.190" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T23:34:46.490" Title="I have trouble drawing a sunlight/shadow line" Tags="|drawing|ink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-01T13:45:31.333" Score="1" ViewCount="2268" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back I spent a few months making a really nice sculpture of a hand out of crayola air dry clay. It worked fine, took details fine and barely cracked when drying. The problem arose in the fingers. Early in the sculpt I took five ovals, etched the contact areas, wet them and stuck them on to the main body. The fingers would occasionally fall off when the sculpture got too wet, but it wasn't much a problem until much later when the fingers simply wouldn't stick anymore. Not even wooden bones could keep the thing together. Eventually I had to scrap the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, was that a problem of cheap clay wearing out over time, or is there some kind of technique for keeping the clay alive longer? Do you have any recommendations for good air dry clay? And do you have any advice on modelling techniques?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6654" LastEditorDisplayName="user169" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T19:52:17.573" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T19:52:17.573" Title="Air dry clay sculpture falling apart over time" Tags="|clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5767" CreationDate="2019-02-02T02:04:48.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, this topic takes up six pages in Ralph Mayer's &quot;The Artist's Handbook&quot; (5th edition) but I'll take a stab at it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sables and their imitations, soft fine bristles, are for delicate work where you want to minimize the brush marks. They are very good for glazing techniques. Bristle brushes or hogs hair brushes have stiffer thicker bristles and leave more texture in the paint marks. They can also handle heavier bodied paint for more impasto styles, where the sables are better for more watery paint and especially water colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rounds and pointed rounds are good for more fluid paints and a simpler line shape, large ones are great for covering a lot of area with color. Flats are considered the most versatile since you can get a good variation in line from them. Filberts are like a rounded flat, kind of oval shaped, so fall in between the two, I find them good for hitting very specific spots. Brights are &quot;good for buttery paints,&quot; so putting down thicker layers, they are a little stubby so are more likely to pick up lower layers when applying wet on wet if you work them too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specialty brushes like chisels and sign painter brushes (very long flats) are all about the specific lines they produce. Fan brushes, another specialty brush, are good for very light applications and for softening existing brush marks (one of my favorite kinds of brush FWIW, think blur tool in photoshop). Water colors also have special brushes like mops which are good for putting down washes as opposed to the points that are more for detail work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps. To me it comes down to how much texture the brush puts in the paint (bristles), and the feel of the line it makes (length and shape). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T02:04:48.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5554" CreationDate="2019-02-02T02:22:38.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;China clay is or kaolin is not structurally strong enough just on its own and needs to be mixed with other materials to form a more robust material that will survive the pre-firing drying period. Assuming this is happening pre-kiln. When you say &quot; when it is dry after some time they end up broken&quot; it sounds like you may not be firing them soon enough or not at all, which is required for them to remain solid. Otherwise they will return to the dust that they came from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-08-24T00:03:16.213" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T00:03:16.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5885" CreationDate="2019-02-02T12:56:40.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fine structures like the fingers of a hand are always problematic, no matter how cheap or good the clay is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general recommendation is to build an inner structure (like a skelleton) from a more stable material and coat it in clay. For your particular case of modeling a hand I propose making fingers from rolled up aluminium foil or thick aluminium wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start making aluminum fingers that are longer and thinner than required and coat them in clay. Then make a ball of clay that is smaller than the palm and stick the aluminium fingers in it. Add more clay and model the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L0U2H.png&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T12:56:40.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5729" CreationDate="2019-02-02T13:37:02.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about different brands of clay, but cracks often occur when the clay dries too fast. If you keep your project in a mostly airtight container (I use an upsidedown bucket) it should dry slow enough to avoid much cracking. Be careful you don't keep it wet too long, because eventually clay grows mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6654" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T13:37:02.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5891" CreationDate="2019-02-02T22:24:30.257" Score="1" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume the suggested coating might vary between tempera and acrylic paint? So two different products is fine by me. I just need something to give my paintings an extremely glossy surface. The coating should be as transparent and color-less as possible so the underlying colors show well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I use for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, also, I might like to do the same thing for latex paint in the future. Any suggestions on that as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6659" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T23:00:24.870" Title="What can I use to clear coat tempera or acrylic paintings for a strong glossy look?" Tags="|paint|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5890" CreationDate="2019-02-04T23:00:24.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use glossy acrylic medium. Acrylic medium comes in different bodies (thicknesses) and the heavier the body the deeper the layer will be. There is also acrylic varnish which also offers more UV protection and lets you clean the painting later but will have less body and is potentially more toxic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a soft wide brush when applying and optionally add a leveling agent to help make it smoother and prevent brush marks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between tempera and acrylic paint is that tempera may remain water soluble after drying in which case it may bleed into anything you coat it with. Test it and if it does bleed you may want to use a fixative before applying the gloss coat as addressed by this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/5862/what-can-i-expect-from-a-fixative&quot;&gt;What can I expect from a fixative?&lt;/a&gt; Though with fixatives you run the risk of discoloration and any glossy coating is going to darken (ie. deepen) the colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-02-04T23:00:24.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1820" CreationDate="2019-02-04T23:23:54.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Picture the line that would be created by the intersection of a plane with the shape you are trying to get a contour of. This resulting edge is a (literal) contour line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example a contour or topographical map shows elevations across an area. Each line on the map is where a plane at the given altitude cuts the landscape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is the same with an object you are drawing, but the cutting angle is arbitrary, it could be based on the angle you are observing the object or the angle the light is striking it or anything else and not necessarily tied to height lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T00:06:03.843" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T00:06:03.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="655" CreationDate="2019-02-05T16:41:53.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/productinfo/learn/paper/#question2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DickBlick&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Manufacturers generally offer three or more finishes, usually labeled rough, cold press, not/cold press and hot press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never seen &quot;not press&quot; as a substitute for cold press, it might be regional. So in order of rough to smooth: rough, cold press, hot press. Bond is a hot pressed paper. Plate paper is the smoothest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course your best bet is to look at/feel the paper yourself, but these catagories should give you a starting point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T16:41:53.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8465" CreationDate="2019-02-05T18:48:51.010" Score="4" ViewCount="2560" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to dilute, thin or liquefy Milliput so that it flows into nooks and crannies better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, is there any advice on what to use, in what ratios, and whether it will adversely effect the strength of it when it cures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to use it to fill gaps in 3D-printed parts where the stepper motor might have skipped or the filament just didn't bind for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T17:27:12.813" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T19:39:45.130" Title="Diluting or thinning uncured Milliput" Tags="|sculpting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5894" CreationDate="2019-02-05T20:17:00.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can use water to dilute it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/thinnin-milliput.24159/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; someone suggest adding a little soap with the water, as this will not only let it mix better, but also increase the drying time, although I think this might be detrimental for the structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note however, that some users complain about the manipulation of this mix (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234935889-advice-required-mr-surfacer-vs-mr-dissolved-putty-vs-milliput/&amp;amp;do=findComment&amp;amp;comment=1263956&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;I tried [to] dilute Milliput and although it worked (sort of) it was messy and time consuming&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The ratio really depends on what you want to achieve&lt;/strong&gt; - what works best for your application. I suggest experimenting with the amount, slowly adding more, until it behaves the way you want it to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can opt for using &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00DE4YU2S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;ProCreate Putty&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which I saw mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?243466-procreate-putty&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and sounds like something that acts a bit more like you would expect of a watered down putty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;Additional sources:&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.40konline.com/index.php?topic=32579.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.40konline.com/index.php?topic=32579.0&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?76994-Milliput-knowledge-please&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?76994-Milliput-knowledge-please&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/thinnin-milliput.24159/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/thinnin-milliput.24159/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://themostexcellentandawesomeforumever-wyrd.com/topic/79094-liquid-greenstuff/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://themostexcellentandawesomeforumever-wyrd.com/topic/79094-liquid-greenstuff/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T20:17:00.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2019-02-06T18:29:17.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you'll want to use a perspective-based method of drawing shadows, such as the technique I demonstrated here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/82/how-to-calculate-the-shadow-direction-size-and-transparency/153#153&quot;&gt;How to calculate the shadow direction, size, and transparency?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you'll need to be doing a modification on your perspective lines to match the distortion you're doing for the perspective in general. If I'm reading your sketch correctly, you've drawn a warped/wavy grid that represents the perspective, so your light perspective lines would have to &quot;snap&quot; to that same grid. In the end, this just means the the shadows that fall on the ground or objects will curve along the same paths as everything else, and be as &quot;straight&quot; as your sidewalk is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, though, that the sun is very high in the sky, which likely means that your light source point will be well off your page (unless you're drawing the sun in a low position like setting/rising, then it may very well be on your page). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T18:29:17.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-07T00:02:34.547" Score="1" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have printed the waterdrop shape on the cardstock. I want it to have sharp and smooth edges. I'm not an artisan at crafts, however, scissors and utility knife leave a lot of roughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFYSr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFYSr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Preview&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6672" LastEditorUserId="6672" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T13:15:07.240" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T01:17:12.153" Title="How can I cut a (reverse) waterdrop shape out of a cardstock perfectly?" Tags="|paper|cardboard|papercutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5897" CreationDate="2019-02-07T01:36:23.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a makerspace in your area or a similar craft related activity/club, you may be able to gain use of a craft cutter such as the Silhouette Cameo or a Cricut product. Still associated with the makerspace, you may find members with a laser cutter. Stretching the application a bit means you could also use a flatbed CNC machine to make the straight and large curves, although the small point at the bottom would have to be done by hand with a sharp craft knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently become aware of a product that can be best described as a high-frequency vibrating craft knife. At a cost of US$399, it's steep for hobby use, but might be practical for high production craft use. It's a Kickstarter campaign called Wondercutter, but as a Kickstarter item, there's a risk involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I own a laser cutter which cuts cardboard quite cleanly, it's on the top of my suggestion list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T01:36:23.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-02-07T03:17:10.610" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on making DIY cards for invitations to my sister's 8th birthday party. I want it to be special so I decided to do everything myself. But I'm really on a tight budget right now, and so I need advice on what materials I can use which will not exceed my allowance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6674" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T17:53:02.777" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T22:12:36.407" Title="Can I make handmade invitation cards on a tight budget?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-02-21T01:15:25.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5899" CreationDate="2019-02-07T08:09:52.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have plain white paper that is thick enough to make invitations cards, you can do the rest with free materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut and fold the paper into cards, then neatly write the invitation. &#xA;Cut decorative forms like hearts, lollipops, bonbons or Hello Kitty heads and glue them onto the cards. You can cut these forms out of colorfull sheets of ads or catalogs or anything colorfull you have lying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catalogs for clothes or furniture often have single items printed very big (like a carpet, windows drapes or a t-shirt). The only disadvantage is that the pages are often so thin you can see the backside through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is wrapping paper. If it's the birthday of your little sister, you probably have a gift to wrap for her. Use some scraps of that paper to decorate the cards. Pieces of gift wrap ribbons add a special flair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you have lying around at home, you can also repurpose things like confetti, glitter, small beads or golden makeup powder do decorate the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care not to add &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt; to the card. 1 - 3 decorations are enough to make the card look special. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T08:09:52.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2019-02-07T21:20:39.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad has a small axe. This was very useful when it came to cutting the popsicle sticks - once he deeply scored the popsicle sticks he then bent it and it was a decent cut with the exception of two or three pieces of wood sticking out which could be cut off with scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="2423" LastEditDate="2019-02-11T12:00:12.533" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T12:00:12.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5897" CreationDate="2019-02-08T01:17:12.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Xacto knife is the artist standard for cutting mats when mounting pictures. Mats are made from a very thick cardstock. You already have the stencil, you may want to get a  French Curve ruler. That helps with stability while cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LINKS&#xA;See the xacto website for knives &amp;amp; blade options.  There’s a wiki link about french curves. Also an article about mat board and different thicknesses of cardstock as well as foamcore board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://xacto.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Https://xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/knives&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_curve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_curve&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_curve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cansonstudio.com/choosing-framing-papers-and-mat-boards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.cansonstudio.com/choosing-framing-papers-and-mat-boards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T01:17:12.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5899" CreationDate="2019-02-09T01:38:29.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use an ink pad and decorative rubber stamps to make your cards as well, they are available in most art or craft stores. To save on the budget you could cut patterns into potato halves and use an ink or paint soaked sponge as the ink pad. Either way they would let you decorate a number of matching cards quickly and easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T01:38:29.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2019-02-09T01:54:58.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shine from the sun will stop where something blocks it: the car, the hands of the clock (maybe), the jogging figure. Not the plane since its shadow will be cast away from the ground if the clock is the sun and is the source of the light. So your shadows will start wherever there is an object between the clock and the viewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are using single point perspective and the sun/clock is at the same point as the perspective convergence you already have a big clue as to where the shadows will fall. The light rays will be following the same path as the perspective lines, the distortion of the perspective is not a problem as the shadows will flow along the same distorted lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: You mention that it will be black and white pen art but doesn't matter if you are using pen and ink or graphite or paint, the shadows will start and lay in the same place. Also, even though you are only using black marks on a white page, you can still introduce tone through line weight, texture, and pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T23:34:46.490" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T23:34:46.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5911" CreationDate="2019-02-13T18:10:55.200" Score="1" ViewCount="1664" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of reinventing the wheel, I'm looking for advice to use a (basic) sewing machine to sew a line from right to left (or the other way). The feed dog of my sewing machine (and most machines) is made to stitch a line front to back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16ajt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16ajt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sewing right to left&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nJc0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nJc0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;how to sew a straight line left ⇆ right (instead of front ⇆ back)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I will need to cover the feed dog (using a cover plate), then I will need to slide the fabric manually from  right to left with the steadiest speed (for aesthetic: to keep a regular space between the stitches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tried it with a normal sewing machine, I'll be glad to collect your advice! (Does anyone knows what this is called? It's difficult to Google it without knowing the term.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(That would be useful for many things like drawing a long line following a long tube such as a pant leg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't see how to cover or deactivate the feeding dog so it won't&#xA;  interfere.(@Elmy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just need a &lt;strong&gt;feed dog cover plate&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wTybF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wTybF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2019-02-14T17:08:11.387" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T15:19:24.533" Title="Sewing machine: how to sew a straight line left ⇆ right (instead of front ⇆ back)?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5907" CreationDate="2019-02-14T12:10:30.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to change your perspective to solve this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of breaking your sewing machine, I don't see how to cover or deactivate the feeding dog so it won't interfere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, you can remove a cover or compartment right under the bobbin case to expose the &quot;sleeve arm&quot; or &quot;free arm&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60tiK.jpg&quot; height=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you align your fabric in a way that the seam lies on top of the arm and the opposite end below the arm. You should pin the seam very well for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply start sewing the normal way. The left side of the tube can move forward freely, but the fabric will bunch up on the right side (In a certain way, the fabric will actually move left to right, but you still sew from the back to the front). Keep sewing and bunching the fabric up, until you've sewn at least half of the entire length. Then you can repeat the same process from the other side if the bunched up fabric hinders you too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general advice, ignore the bunched up fabric as much as possible. Just push it out of your way as best as you can. the only important thing is to keep the seam aligned with the feeding dog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tube you're trying to sew is still to long for this method, I'm afraid you'll need to use a professional sewing machine like this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SZAt.jpg&quot; height=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-02-14T20:29:20.817" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T20:29:20.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5907" CreationDate="2019-02-15T20:02:56.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually much easier than I thought (if you don't mind some uneven stitch spacing). But I guess there are some tricks I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a the &amp;quot;feed dog cover plate&amp;quot; (it disables the feed dogs) so I could sew in any direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pass the &amp;quot;tube&amp;quot; through the machine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just pull back slowly on the fabric to sew a straight line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty easy at a low speed. (I found it difficult is to keep a low and constant speed, using the foot speed controller. It would have been easier with a preset speed.) Basically, the more you pull the fabric, and the slower the needle goes, the bigger the spaces are between stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not sure, run the machine manually (by turning the wheel) for a few stitches. It's slow but still much quicker than sewing by hand, and you can set the spacing exactly where you want. It's more difficult with the motor on, but not impossible if you manage to have a constant slow speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also tried on the trickier parts to sew with the presser foot in the raised position, which worked well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I tried a tube of nearly 2x1 meter made from a kind of jeans fabric, I did not break the needle without really caring about it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/8dDnt2MY4Dg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a video&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlHc9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xlHc9.png&quot; alt=&quot;sewing right to left&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;Some important info from @Linda's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a darning foot or a free motion quilting foot should be used when doing this type of stitching to hold the fabric down while the needle is in the fabric, then lift when the needle comes up so you can move the fabric&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T15:19:24.533" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T15:19:24.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5907" CreationDate="2019-02-15T20:49:51.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are describing the technique used for &quot;free motion quilting.&quot; On some sewing machines, you can lower the feed dogs instead of covering them. Your machine may come with a &quot;darning foot&quot; or a &quot;free motion quilting&quot; foot which should be used when doing this type of stitching to hold the fabric down while the needle is in the fabric, then lifts when the needle comes up so you can move the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6708" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T20:49:51.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5907" CreationDate="2019-02-18T22:04:05.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For perfect topstitching on the side seams of pants specifically, one answer could be to sew and topstitch the side seams earlier in the order of construction, before a tube is created.   This is not the usual order of sewing pants, but can help in making beautifully perfect sideseam topstitching... &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/m_L7ImXrJFw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an Angela Kane video demonstrating this idea.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T16:39:44.920" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T16:39:44.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5899" CreationDate="2019-02-18T22:12:36.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hint is how I made my wedding invitations: I used pressed flowers.  As Elmy explained above, fold cardstock or construction paper into invitation cards and write the invitations carefully.  Pick the nicest blooms from some local flowers (with permission from the gardener, of course!) and immediately press for a few days by placing them carefully between layers of newspaper, and weighting the paper with books.  When they are dry, use school glue to decorate the cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To protect the flowers, you can either place them in the envelopes with a piece of waxed paper held over the flowers, or alternatively, put the flowers on the inside of the card rather than the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each invitation will be a one of a kind work of art!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T22:12:36.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5870" CreationDate="2019-02-18T23:20:43.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is in the &lt;em&gt;direction&lt;/em&gt; that the fiber is twisted in the twining process.  A fiber that is twisted in a clockwise direction (if you were looking at the end of a single yarn or thread from above) is called an “S” twist; if twisted in a counterclockwise direction it is a “Z” twist.  These two directions of twist, and their effect upon the appearance of stockinette fabric, are very nicely illustrated and explained in &lt;a href=&quot;http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATwhyply.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article by Michele Lock over at Knitty.&lt;/a&gt;  The article explains that the &lt;em&gt;direction of the twist in the twining process&lt;/em&gt; determines “how the yarn wants to lie, so there will be no stress or bias in the fabric.”  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your shirt’s stockinette fabric has a rib-like appearance because it is made from “Z” twisted fiber, which can be used in any quality of fabric or fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All yarns and threads use on commercial knitting machines are twined. The only time you might see a non-twined fiber used in knit fabric is in hand knitting with plain roving (which is untwined wool.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look very closely at the first image posted above, you can see that the yarn is twisted (“twined”) in an “S” configuration.  The two “legs” of the knitted stitches are therefore balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking closely at the second image you can see that the yarn is twisted in a “Z” configuration, which is causing the right leg of each knitted stitch to line up more vertically with the leg above it, creating what appears to be a sort of vertical rib.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at your Reebok shirt fabric with a magnifying glass, you will see that the individual fibers are “Z” twisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One further clarification: there are two types of fabrics, woven and knit.  Woven fabric is made on looms with yarns or threads going over and under each other at perpendicular angles, while knitted fabric is made by pulling loops of yarn or thread through a previous row of loops. Woven fabric tends to be non-stretchy, while the main identifying feature of knit fabric is its stretch. The fabric in your shirt is a knit. &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.mybluprint.com/sewing/article/knit-vs-woven-fabrics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article over at mybluprint&lt;/a&gt; has excellent images and explanations of these two methods of creating fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T00:44:28.663" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T00:44:28.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5848" CreationDate="2019-02-18T23:42:30.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mub9l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mub9l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Granary and Mill&lt;/em&gt; By Andrew Wyeth ,1961&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One designation for this palette is “neutral.”  Andrew Wyeth is well known for neutral palette usage: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wyeth’s palette was neutral, meaning the colors have a brown undertone. You can achieve this by mixing together complementary colors- or by adding brown to your colors.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://4.files.edl.io/1e5e/10/30/18/150509-95b22654-f87d-4142-9622-d1350085dae7.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This quote is from this lovely PDF describing Andrew Wyeth’s use of neutral palettes in his paintings.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T05:22:19.277" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T05:22:19.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5732" CreationDate="2019-02-19T02:33:13.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-checker-beard-with-checkers-104493085.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Checker board with checkers.&lt;/a&gt; (It does not appear to be a pattern with an official name.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T16:25:25.360" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T16:25:25.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5848" CreationDate="2019-02-19T12:58:00.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can spot some yellow-ish, maybe even some dark green-ish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, it &lt;em&gt;cannot be &lt;strong&gt;gray-scale&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gray-scale means that if you convert the picture to gray-scale, the picture will not be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the best would be a combination of &lt;strong&gt;low-saturation&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;sepia&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;not fully low-saturation&lt;/strong&gt;, because the snow is &lt;em&gt;tinted yellow-brown-ish&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;not fully sepia&lt;/strong&gt;, because &lt;em&gt;the tint does not affect the entire picture&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T05:30:25.420" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T05:30:25.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="121" CreationDate="2019-02-19T17:30:28.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to hide the ends of the yarn, make sure that when you're tucking the ends in with a yarn needle, you're not only going through once, but back-stitching it as well, which will lock it in place.  Then just carefully cut the end very close to your work, and it should never come unraveled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6717" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T17:30:28.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3728" CreationDate="2019-02-19T17:45:57.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one factor missing here is knowing whether the yarn is “superwash” wool or not. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lionbrand.com/blog/faq-what-is-superwash-wool/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a description of Superwash Wool, as well as care instructions.&lt;/a&gt; Superwash will not shrink back into shape no matter how much blocking or steaming, or drying in a dryer, you do.  In fact it can grow even more when washed.  So if you have tried all of the above methods and the hat is still too large, the yarn is very likely Superwash, and the only way to get a stretched-out Superwash hat tightened is indeed by using either elastic, or elastic thread, to pull the ribbing band into a tighter dimension.  (I started this as a comment to agree with @Jane above, but apparently my comment is too long so it became a separate answer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/dQJNxZPdGVI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a youtube demonstration on applying elastic thread to the lower edge of a stretched-out hat using a crochet hook.&lt;/a&gt; This would work for either a kniitted or crocheted hat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also had excellent success with elastic thread by using a darning needle to run 3 or 4 straight stitch rows along the inside edge of the hat, spaced about 1/4” apart.  As she shows in the video, elastic thread comes in “clear,” which virtually disappears into the fabric, and if applied on the inside will be completely invisible on the outside of the hat.  This invisibility is a big advantage over sewing actual elastic bands onto the inside of the hat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T17:45:57.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="193" CreationDate="2019-02-21T00:19:13.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HOW TO KEEP YOUR SUPER SLICK YARN ORGANIZED WITH CROCHETED YARN HOLDERS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since posting the above answer on &lt;em&gt;How to Wind a Center Pull Ball of Yarn&lt;/em&gt;, I have had the “challenging pleasure” of working with several  yarns which are exquisitely slick.  As the yarn is used up while making the project, and the interior of the Center Pull Ball becomes more and more hollow, the ball can disintigrate into a messy wad reminiscent of a pile of seaweed.  In fact, some yarns I have worked with are &lt;em&gt;so&lt;/em&gt; slick, the center pull is nearly impossible to create, as the ball literally falls apart  as soon as you let it go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of yarn fibers which fit this description include pure silk, pure alpaca, or some synthetic yarns.  Lightweight silk/mohair yarns sometimes misbehave also when the ball becomes very hollow.  This is generally not a problem with wool yarn, as the fibers “stick” to one another in the ball, holding it together.  Superwash Wool is not as sticky, but still maintains itself in a tidy ball quite nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what to do?  For a long time I have used  socks for “keepers”, especially children’s socks with lots of elastic, which progressively compress the yarn ball as it gets hollower and hollower.  Sometimes I will place the yarn ball into a smaller very elastic sock only at a later stage in the hollowing-out process, when it looks like the yarn ball is about to fall apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is the mesh bags that onions or shallots come in.  They are tube-shaped, and can easily be tied at the “bottom” with a scrap of yarn, and then loosely tied at the “top” where the working yarn comes out.  I have even seen these sold for the designated purpose of “yarn cosies”.  However I don’t find them to collapse tightly enough to work very well for super slippery yarns at the later stages of yarn-ball-hollowness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recent favorite solution is to crochet yarn holders using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Bx8LGWY42d0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mesh stitch, shown here on youtube.&lt;/a&gt;  To make the mesh stitch into a ball shape, begin with a chain of 5 or 6 stitches, and join it into a ring.  Then following the mesh pattern, increasing over 4 or 5 rows to a circumference slightly smaller than your yarn ball.  (You want it to be a slightly tight fit when the ball is first placed in the holder.)  Add 4 or 5 more rows without decreasing, and try your yarn ball in the holder again to see if you have made it long enough to close comfortably around the ball.  Some ripping-out and re-doing is likely to occur, but despite this I promise this is a very quick project.  When the ball fits nicely, and you can close the top edge loosely around the center pull working yarn, lace a length of strong yarn that will not easily break (suck as cotton or linen) or a chained cord through the top edge loops, and you can then loosely close the top edge around the working yarn.  The mesh stitch is very stretchy and will continue to hug the center pull ball nicely so that you don’t end up with a big tangled mess....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HxwNU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HxwNU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;center pull yarn ball holders&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The cream colored yarn above is Scrumptious “4 ply sport superwash”, 45% silk and 55% superwash merino.  It is slick enough that without the mesh holder, I know I would have had troubles near the end of the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A SPECIAL CASE: A LITERAL GIRDLE FOR YARN THAT IS AS SLICK AS SNOT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of you have tried knitting with eyelash yarn, you know what I mean.  The yarn shown below is Prism “Plume”, 100% nylon - very gorgeous, BUT the slickest stuff I have ever tried to work with.  It comes in a skein of only 45 yards, so you would think this would be no problem.  BUT, it was too slick to even START a center pull ball with.  So I wound it onto a rectangular piece of cardboard, then made a mesh yarn “girdle” in the shape of a rectangle, with 4 or 5 ties extending from two sides of the rectangle.  I had to experiement and customize the size of the mesh rectangle very carefully for the cardboard, so that there would be plenty of hugging action.  Even when tied tightly, as seen in the top photo below (which looks like some exotic alien sea creature, I know...) this yarn is so slippery that I can easily pull the working yarn &lt;em&gt;from the outside of the ‘ball’&lt;/em&gt;.  In the lower photo you can see where I added more ties to the outside of the rectangle, a couple of inches from the edge, so that as the yarn ‘ball’ gets smaller, I can crank down the ‘hugging action’ even more, in other words reduce the girth of the girdle, to further prevent a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pdE49.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pdE49.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Prism “Plume” safe in its “yarn girdle”&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sq3zU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sq3zU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extra ties added for decreasing girdle girth even more when the yarn ‘ball’ gets smaller&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last perk of crocheting your own yarn holders: you can put the yarn tag into the holder before you put the yarn ball in, so that you will always have the yarn information right there with your yarn...  Happy Knitting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T02:27:26.720" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T02:27:26.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5848" CreationDate="2019-02-21T01:08:05.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few things going on in this picture. Since you're asking specifically about the color &lt;em&gt;scheme&lt;/em&gt;, which is the selection of colors or the palette, I won't go into the composition/arrangement of the colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;In short, it's a low saturation, high contrast, monochromatic yellow color scheme. Read on for how I arrived at that conclusion.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, this is absolutely a &lt;strong&gt;low saturation&lt;/strong&gt; color palette. That's readily evident when you import the image (cropping out the borders that contain bits of the display wall, in the photo) into a photo editing program or even just &lt;a href=&quot;https://color.adobe.com/create/image/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adobe Color&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ofen.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ofen.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I used Adobe Color to automatically select the dominant colors (under the &amp;quot;Colorful&amp;quot;) option, and then I moved one of the selections to pick out a gray color, instead of one of the darker yellows in the top-right. I couldn't tell if the shading in the top right was intentionally or an artifact of the photography/lighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we can more clearly see the lack of saturation. So, let's talk about saturation!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Saturation is also known as &lt;strong&gt;chroma, intensity, or colorfulness&lt;/strong&gt;. The closer a color is to being a true neutral (black, gray or white), the &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; saturated it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very easy to visualize in terms of RGB (Red/Green/Blue) values. Colors with the exact same amounts of red, green and blue are true neutrals. Any time the difference in amounts between two or more of those values increases, the &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; saturated the color becomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wrMW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wrMW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going back to Adobe Color, we can analyze the scheme and see that for all 5 colors selected, the RGB values all lie very close to one another. And if I switch the analysis to HSB (Hue/Saturation/Brightness), you'll see that all are very low saturation (the 2nd slider bar, or you can look at the exact values).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LExK4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LExK4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, Red and green are more similar to one another, and always greater than blue, which creates a &lt;em&gt;yellow&lt;/em&gt; color scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives us a key to to another major aspect of this palette. It is &lt;strong&gt;monochromatic&lt;/strong&gt;, meaning &amp;quot;one color&amp;quot;. The colors in this image are primarily various tints or shades (lights or darks) of a low saturation yellow hue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there may be some artistic discussion over whether or not this is truly monochromatic, because some of the snow/sky and car have slight notes of blue to them, but color theory is not a hard science, and there is always some wiggle room. (It's also hard to say whether or not the blue hints in the whites were intentional. If the artist wasn't using a pure white paint, it might have been accidental. It could also just be from the lighting of the photograph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the last major things I noticed about the colors relates to its contrast. There is almost &lt;strong&gt;no use of midtones&lt;/strong&gt;. Generally speaking, the tone of image is its lighting, or the scale of it's shadows to its highlights. Midtones are thus the colors whose brightness falls between the shadows and highlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look back at the HSB image, you can see that brightness levels of the light colors are very similar (82, 84, 85), and the darker colors as well (33, 41). There's nothing between them. While I'm sure some could be found with a digital color picker, nothing really stands out as being used intentionally as a midtone. Thus, the image, overall, is &lt;strong&gt;high contrast&lt;/strong&gt;, because there are no midtones to lower the contrast between the shadows and the highlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T01:08:05.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5839" CreationDate="2019-02-24T03:22:41.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a Felting Needle Chart, via &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paradisefibers.com/pages/felting-needle-size-chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paradise Fibers&lt;/a&gt;, which describes each needle type, gauge, blade style, fiber type, and uses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3pQ14.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3pQ14.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Needle Felting Chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/02pQi_VZ8ew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Additionally, here is a very helpful YouTube reviewing the types of Felting Needles, demonstrating their various uses, and mentioning safety when Felting.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T03:22:41.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5926" CreationDate="2019-02-24T04:19:39.843" Score="3" ViewCount="999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I knitted a hat top-down with a stranded 2:2 rib edge. What would be an nice-looking and adequately stretchy bind-off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T05:31:00.563" Title="What is a good stretchy bind-off for 2:2 ribbing?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5925" CreationDate="2019-02-24T05:31:00.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend a variation of Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off (JSSBO) &lt;a href=&quot;http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;explained here over at Knitty.com.&lt;/a&gt; An additional resource for this technique is this drawing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/jenys-surprisingly-stretchy-bind-off/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;provided by Interweave:&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Vdm9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Vdm9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawing demonstrates the JSSBO technique in a k2:p1 ribbing pattern.  To use JSSBO for binding-off a k2:p2 ribbing, such as the one shown below, simply apply the knit-type and purl-type techniques described in Step 1–&gt;Step 2 in corresponding fashion upon the k2:p2 stitches of the ribbing.  (Therefore you could use this bind-off on any ratio of ribbing!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see it is a nice looking bind off:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ksjyK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ksjyK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8PaSD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8PaSD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T05:31:00.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5434" CreationDate="2019-02-24T06:09:21.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more &lt;strong&gt;very important thing&lt;/strong&gt; to take into consideration when designing / knitting a sweater: how much ease will you be building into the design?  The great news is, you’re the boss of this pattern, so if you want it to fit tightly (negative ease,) just skimming the skin (neutral ease,) or loosely (positive ease,) you can build this style consideration into your design with a bit of guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One simple approach to this is to choose a sweater from your personal collection of favorite sweaters, purchased or homemade, which you love the fit of, and pattern the ease of your design after that sweater.  This works especially well if the weight of the example sweater’s fabric is similar to what you are designing.  By laying the example sweater out on a flat surface, unstretched, and taking careful measurements at all of the important locations (neckline, shoulder length, chest, waist, armskye, arm length, hip, cuff, back length) you will have your patterns proportions all set.  From there you apply your gauge to each of those measurements (rows per inch x inches of vertical measurements, and stitches per inch x inches of horizontal measurements,) and you will have the basic outlines of your pattern.  Increases and decreases will then need to be distributed between measurement points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach is to work from your “gauge x measurement” numbers and then &lt;em&gt;add&lt;/em&gt; a certain amount of inches for the various amounts of ease you desire.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.oliveknits.com/knit-better-sweaters-ease/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is a bit more complicated, but is described nicely over at oliveknits.com.&lt;/a&gt; Here are her definitions of the various levels of ease:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Negative ease: A garment which measures smaller than the measurements of the body (usually in the bust, with the corresponding fit in the arms and body being proportional to the fit at the bust). For example, if you have a 36″ bust and you knit a sweater with negative ease, the resulting piece will measure less than 36″. How much less will depend on how much negative ease is written into the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zero ease: A garment which measures the same as the measurements of the body. For example, if you have a 44″ bust and you knit a sweater with zero ease, the resulting piece will measure 44″ at the bust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Positive ease: A garment which measures larger than the measurements of the body. For example, if you have a 32″ bust and you knit a sweater with 3″ positive ease, the resulting piece will measure 35″ at the bust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She goes into detail about how to tell what the ease is in a pattern, but since you are creating your own design, all you need to do is add the desired ease amount to the bust and waist measurements in your design (and a smaller more appropriate amount to your sleeves widths.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T06:09:21.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5862" CreationDate="2019-02-24T07:20:57.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixative does not make a medium such as charcoal or soft pastel smudge-proof.  It increases the adherance of the medium to the ground, so that it is less likely to “dust off” or be knocked off in handling.  But you should not expect it to be smudge-proof to touch, or to a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: verbal conversation with &lt;a href=&quot;http://thecolorist.blogspot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Casey Klahn, pastel artist, PSA, IAPS/MC.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T07:20:57.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5318" CreationDate="2019-02-24T07:56:58.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem could be the composition of the wax.  Could there possibly be a certain percent of soy wax in the pillars, in addition to the beeswax?  The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theflamingcandle.com/wick-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wick Guide&lt;/a&gt; that you referenced states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Higher viscous waxes such as single pour paraffin wax, soy (vegetable) wax, and beeswax, may require (wicks) up to several sizes larger than the recommendations below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://craftycandlesupplies.com.au/the_ultimate_candle_troubleshooting_guide_soy_candle_making_problems_and_solutions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is another source that discusses how soy wax can cause problems such as tunneling:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tunneling occurs when the wick used is too small and flame does not sufficiently melt the whole surface of the candle. This will result in the candle burning unevenly, a smaller flame, lower scent throw and the candle extinguishing itself.  The best candle tunneling fix is to use a larger wick size...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T07:56:58.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4290" CreationDate="2019-02-24T08:16:40.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ctpub.com/kraft-tex/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kraft-Tex® Paper&lt;/a&gt;.  Many people are using it for bookbinding.  It is also used for making wallets, purses, even luggage.  It is ultra-durable (virtually rip-proof), can be sewn like fabric, and embellished in many ways including printing.  Here is the description written by the manufacturer, C&amp;amp;T Publishing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait until you get your hands on this rugged paper that looks, feels, and wears like leather, but sews, cuts, and washes like fabric. Kraft-Tex® is supple, yet strong enough to use for projects that get tough wear. Use it to bring an exciting new texture to your craft-sewing projects, mixed-media arts, home decor, and bookmaking. Durable fiber-based texture softens and crinkles with handling and washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original unwashed Kraft-Tex® is available in Black, Chocolate, Natural, Stone and White by the bolt or by the roll. (It is now available in several more colors.) So many ways to play with Kraft-Tex®: sew it, stamp it, paint it, fold it, draw or inkjet-print on it. White is a wonderful canvas for painting, rubber stamping, drawing, and stitching. Black makes metallic ink or thread, gel pens, and powdered pigments pop! Kraft-Tex® does not require interfacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have purchased some and can’t wait to see what it is like to work with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T08:16:40.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5935" CreationDate="2019-02-24T11:58:44.277" Score="3" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm following a knitting pattern to create a 30cm x 30cm cushion cover, which I think should create a rectangle that I eventually fold over a cushion inner. The instructions, verbatim,  are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cast on &lt;strong&gt;50&lt;/strong&gt; stitches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 1: &lt;strong&gt;* K1, P1&lt;/strong&gt;, repeat from * to end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Repeat above row 7 times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Continue with triangle pattern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 1: &lt;strong&gt;K1, P9, K1, P9, K1, P9, K1, P9&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 2: &lt;strong&gt;P1, K7, P3, K7, P3, K7, P3, K7, P2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 3: &lt;strong&gt;K3, P5, K5, P5, K5, P5, K5, P5, K2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 4: &lt;strong&gt;P3, K3, P7, K3, P7, K3, P7, K3, P4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 5: &lt;strong&gt;K5, P1, K9, P1, K9, P1, K9, P1, K4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 6: &lt;strong&gt;K4, P1, K9, P1, K9, P1, K9, P1, K5&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 7: &lt;strong&gt;P4, K3, P7, K3, P7, K3, P7, K3, P3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 8: &lt;strong&gt;K2, P5, K5, P5, K5, P5, K5, P5, K3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 9: &lt;strong&gt;P2, K7, P3, K7, P3, K7, P3, K7, P1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 10: &lt;strong&gt;P9, K1, P9, K1, P9, K1, P9, K1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Repeat last 10 rows 6 times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 1: &lt;strong&gt;K&lt;/strong&gt; till end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Row 2: &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt; till end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Repeat Row 1 and 2 until you have 50 rows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cast off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then goes on to explain how to fold the rectangle over a cushion inner, and use mattress stitch to stitch the edges shut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triangle pattern section has 40 stitches in each row, but the pattern explains to cast on 50 stitches. So after row 1 of the triangle section, I have 10 stitches remaining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) What should I do here?&lt;/strong&gt; I've tried turning my work at that point and continuing with row 2, but this always leaves those 10 stitches unworked, and doesn't create a rectangle at all. Has this patttern incorrectly printed how many stitches to cast on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6736" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T15:54:09.813" Title="Second row of knitting pattern has less stitches than cast on" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5933" CreationDate="2019-02-24T13:51:19.267" Score="0" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;When working with acrylic clear baubles like these&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TydT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TydT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clear bauble&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What method can be used to cut a clean hole in the side to create a diarama within the bauble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine using a dremel would create a jagged edge which would be hard to smooth out without creating a scratched look on the edge.  I would like a clean edge if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T15:56:27.790" Title="Cutting a hole in baubles" Tags="|cutting|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5932" CreationDate="2019-02-24T15:56:27.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you require a circular opening and have access to a laser cutter AND the plastic is acrylic and not polycarbonate, the baubles can be cut with the laser cutter. The edges would be polished by the laser to a smooth edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makerspaces are the best option for finding a laser cutter. It has to be a CO2 laser rather than the lower cost, lower power diode lasers as the latter operate at the wrong frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be able to accomplish your objective, but I find no method of contact in the SE system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T15:56:27.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5931" CreationDate="2019-02-24T19:09:22.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check the tension in any case, to be sure that the number of stitches and rows will make the correct size cover for your cushion. That should tell you whether 40 or 50 stitches is the best choice. If 40 or 50 stitches is going to cover 30 cm, you must be using very thick wool and large needles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two fairly obvious ways to fix the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cast on 40 stitches, not 50, and follow the pattern as written. You need to check the number of &lt;em&gt;rows&lt;/em&gt; is going to give you the correct length, when it says &amp;quot;repeat the 10 rows 6 times&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;repeat until you have 50 rows&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cast on 50 stitches and change the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the triangle section, each row is similar. The middle part of the row consists of repeated pairs of K and P that add up to 10 stitches (K1 P9 in row 1, K3 P7 in row 2, etc). Just repeat that group once more to cover the extra 10 stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T19:09:22.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5931" CreationDate="2019-02-24T20:58:15.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that the pattern has a typographical error in the first line.  It should tell you to cast on 40 stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When knitting a square or rectangle, there is nothing counterintuitive going on, you are knitting rows back and forth that eventually become the geometric shape of an object with four 90 degree corners.  The number of stitches at cast on should represent exactly the number of stitches being knitted in each row thereafter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;strong&gt;the very important issue of gauge&lt;/strong&gt; to bring into the equation. If you are planning to sew your own inner pillow form and stuff it yourself, then you can customize the size of the pillow form to the dimensions of your completed cushion cover. In this case, the issue of gauge is not very important, other than for the look of the fabric itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you plan to place the cushion cover onto a pre-purchased pillow form, the finished square would need to be a precise size in order to fit well onto that pillow form.  So, it is definitely worth knitting a good-sized swatch (something like a 12 or 13 cm square) in the yarn and stitch pattern you are using for your project, in order to check your gauge and therefore confirm that all your hard work will actually turn out the correct size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to determine gauge with a swatch:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[A] Stitches Per Row (Horizontal Gauge):&lt;/strong&gt; Once you have your gauge swatch knitted, accurately count (down to the 1/2 stitch!) how many stitches there are in 10 cm.  We know that the pattern calls for 40 stitches in 30 cm.  This would equate to a gauge of 10.3333 stitches in 10 cm. I would round this up to 10.5 stitches in 10 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples: If your gauge swatch shows you having say 12 stitches in 10 cm, then you should go up a needle size (use a larger needle to get larger stitches, therefore fewer stitches per 10 cm) in order to precisely achieve that 10.5 stitches per 10 cm.  If the swatch shows say 9 stitches in 10 cm, then you would go down a size (use a smaller needle to get smaller stitches, thus more stitches per 10 cm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[B] Rows per Length (Vertical Gauge):&lt;/strong&gt; As for rows, those too should be measured in a 10 cm section of your swatch. It appears to me that the pattern calling for 76 rows (8 starting border rows, a 10-row pattern repeated 6 times, and another 8 row border) over a length of 30 cm: if this is correct, it would equate to a gauge of 25.3 rows per 10 cm.  This doesn’t sound right, usually knitted stitches are 4/5 as tall as they are wide (&lt;a href=&quot;http://overtherainbowyarn.com/stitch-proportions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;That means that if you cast on a number of stitches, then knit the same number of rows, your knitted swatch will be about 4/5 as tall as it is wide (say 5 inches wide and 4 inches tall,)&lt;/a&gt;) which would mean you would need 50 rows, not 76, to make a length equal to the width of 40 cast on stitches. SO, I think given the statement at the end that you knit until there are 50 rows, there is another error elsewhere in the pattern. (I will talk you through this in the final paragraphs below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with vertical (row) gauge is that it is much harder to correct the height of your loops, then the width of your loops as in stitches per row. The first priority in gauge really is knitting with the right needle for horizontal (stitch) gauge.  So in the case of a rectangle, the ultimate length of the work is better handled by adding or subtracting rows in order to make the piece come out exactly as long as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pattern were what we call an “all over pattern” from the first row to the last, you could literally just keep knitting until the piece from cast on to the edge of the loops on your needle measures one row short of your desired length - then the cast off row would complete the precise length you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in your case, this pattern includes a border of 8 rows at the beginning and (I’m assuming? although the pattern is confusing in saying “knit until there are 50 rows”: again, see last paragraph) at the end.  So a precise length adjustment will need to occur by adding or subtracting rows somewhere that does not disrupt the design.  You can choose to do this either in the central patternwork, or half in the beginning border and half in the ending border (to keep the borders symmetrical,) or a little of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ABOUT THE ERRORS IN THIS PATTERN:&lt;/strong&gt; OK, as reviewed above, in addition to the cast on being wrong, the pattern definitely describes a 76 row design: 8 rows of initial border + 60 rows (6 x 10 row pattern,) + 8 rows of final border.  Using the 4/5 rule (stitch height over stitch width), a 40 stitch cast on that is 30 cm wide would become a 30 cm square after 50 rows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OPTION A: SEE IF THE DESIGNER HAS PUBLISHED “ERRATA”, WHICH IS KNITSPEAK FOR A CORRECTION TO THE PATTERN:&lt;/strong&gt; I would definitely contact this designer.  If he/she hasn’t already published Errata, it is likely because she hasn’t received the feedback that there are errors.  Most of us who design for knitting (or any fiber art) try REALLY REALLY hard to make sure the instructions are perfect, and we’re mortified to discover any error no matter how slight, and will do backflips in order to make it right as quickly as humanly possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OPTION B: ALTER THE PATTERN:&lt;/strong&gt; If you cannot reach the designer, then I would make some decisions.  Based on your swatch, you know your rows per 10 cm gauge: confirm exactly how many rows will make a 30 cm length.  Then start deciding where to distribute the “border” rows, and the “center stitch design” rows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: say your swatching shows that 50 rows would make a 30 cm length.  (The “50 rows” instruction at the end may actually be correct, as it does work out mathematically.)  Perhaps you could make a 5 row border, 4 repeats of the 10 row pattern, and finish with a 5 row border.  (A total of 50 rows.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OPTION C: WING IT WITH AN ALL-OVER PATTERN:&lt;/strong&gt; Depending on how bonded you are with the pattern you are planning, you could consider knitting just the 40-stitch, 10 row stitch pattern, repeating the 10 rows start to finish, and simply stopping as soon as the correct length is reached.  (This is what I described above, the third paragraph in section [B].)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ONE FINAL ENCOURAGEMENT: HAND KNITTED OBJECTS ARE VERY FORGIVING:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes you want to be as precise as possible, because your hands are human hands, and your tension may vary up and down, so attempting to get the dimensions correct through gauge measurements is smart knitting.  But there is another side to the coin: you CAN relax! Hand knitted objects tend to be very stretchy (with some exceptions based on stitch pattern and fiber selection.) Given the pattern you are knitting, you may be surprised how stretchy it is.  Also when you finish it, you will soak the piece, wrap it in a towel and squeeze out the water, then block it on a flat surface to the dimensions you designed it for.  Blocking will make all the difference, you can literally make a piece bend to your will at that stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, and that you can enjoy making this project despite some math! I am happy to answer questions in comments or even chat if you need more help!-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2020-12-27T15:54:09.813" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T15:54:09.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2095" CreationDate="2019-02-25T01:47:45.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Not knowing your skill set and tool collection, I will answer this question by describing how I as a professional framer would frame this for a customer.  Many of my methods are basically preferences I have settled into over the years.  Where applicable I have included links to other methods.  In this scenario I am cutting the mat, spacers and the glass myself, but I am ordering a custom-made frame from a supplier.  Feel free to ask for clarification on terminology, tools etc... in the comments.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[1] Design and Cut the Mat:&lt;/strong&gt; Considerations include: A mat provides a clean uncluttered field surrounding artwork, which can bring the work forward. It is practical if there are edges to the artwork which you prefer to keep hidden. It can serve the purpose of keeping a vulnerable artwork away from the glass.  You can also use a mat to bring out a particular color in the artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you may not even want a mat, for instance here you might prefer that the celluloid float minimalistically within a simple frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For examples’ sake, here let’s assume that the celluloid’s actual dimensions are 11” x 11”, that the area of the celluloid which you want to be visible is 10” x 10”, and that you would like a mat of 2” width visible. Because it is celluloid you want the mat-artwork-mat sandwich to be “spaced” away from the glass, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.framersworkshop.com/Animationcels/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(“Since animation cels are painted on both sides of each layer, they need to be matted on both sides to insure sufficient air space between them.”)&lt;/a&gt;  , and you want to be able to see both the front and back of the artwork.  (The design I am describing here allows you to take an artwork off the wall to see the back side of the cel. If you wanted the artwork to have a finished frame from both front and back, this would be done by working closely with a framer to choose that type of specialty frame moulding, and the assembly steps would therefore differ.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I cut a mat, I add the frame’s rabbet depth (let’s say that is 1/4”) and 1/4” to the bottom part of the mat for the optical effect of it being weighted, which is unconsciously more pleasing to the eye than having all of the sides being the same width. [(Bottom-weighting is of course optional. Here is an explanation over at framersworkshop.com of bottom-weighting: “The optical center is higher than that of the geometric center; in other words, where your eye is drawn is actually above the actual center of the space.” This source uses the golden mean to determine the amount to weight the bottom of the mat. I typically just use 1/4” for an artwork of the example size.)][1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, we have a mat design that is 14-1/2” wide by 14-3/4” high, as I have diagramed here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9xG5e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9xG5e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;matboard image #1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, in order to be able to “sandwich” the cel between two matboards, we will cut two matboard “blanks” to the outside dimensions of 14-1/2” W by 14-3/4” H, then cut the beveled openings using a mat cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.framersworkshop.com/Animationcels/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt; Cut the Glass:&lt;/strong&gt; Two pieces (for front and back) will be cut using the same outside dimensions that we used for the matboard. Make sure you select the highest-possible-rated UV Protection glass, because, as you pointed out, celluloid is very vulnerable, and would be readily degraded if left unprotected from light.  (You will also want to display this in a room where there is no direct light.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9xG5e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt; Frame Design:&lt;/strong&gt; In order to be able to lower your glass and “mat-artwork-mat sandwich” layers into the back of the frame, the inside dimensions of the rabbet of the frame will need to account for approximately 1/8” “slosh room” in both height and width dimensions.  Some frameshops automatically add this, so when you order the frame be sure to confirm if they will be adding slosh room, or if you should include it in your measurements (which would come to 14-5/8W x 14-7/8”H.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, some framers just want to know the dimensions of the &lt;strong&gt;visible area&lt;/strong&gt; of the artwork and mat (not including the depth of the rabbet OR the slosh room), which in this example would be 14” wide by 14-1/4” high.  Again, it is very important to confirm with your framer if they would like the dimensions given to them with or without the rabbet depth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NEVER phone in a custom frame order.  ALWAYS give your order to a custom frame supplier IN WRITING, be it via fax, email, or a COPIED hand-written note.  This way, if you have the misfortune of receiving a frame that is all wrong, you have a paper trail to confirm the information you originally supplied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this celluloid, as I diagramed below, you will want to choose a moulding with adequate rabbet depth for two layers of glass (3/32” each), plus 1/4” front and back for spacers to give the artwork room to breathe, plus two layers of matboard (1/ 16” each), plus a minimum of 1/4” working room for securing the sandwich into the back of the frame.  (The thickness of the celluloid, represented by the red line, is negligable.) This total comes to 1-1/16”, which is a very deep rabbet, but not impossible to find (especially if the framer has frame moulding stock that is used for shadow boxes.)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r325J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r325J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rabbet depth requirement&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r325J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4&lt;/a&gt; Assemble the Mat-Artwork-Mat Sandwich:&lt;/strong&gt; Wearing clean cotton gloves, and handling the celluloid only by the edges, position it to your liking on the back of one of the mats. Using archival framing tape (my favorite brand is &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001ANYYUI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filmoplast P90&lt;/a&gt;) afix the celluloid to the mat board, carefully placing the tape so that the least amount of celluloid possible (I would shoot for 1/8”) is actually in contact with the tape, yet the artwork is secure enough on all sides to not slip within the mat sandwich.  (Because we are working with a two-sided artwork, there is no advantage to using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=hinging%20method%20for%20securing%20artwork%20in%20a%20mat&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;oe=UTF-8&amp;amp;hl=en-us&amp;amp;client=safari#imgrc=vT4Ha6BlQyBYEM:&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hinging Method&lt;/a&gt; here.) Using a bone folder, rub the tape well to enhance adhesion. (The folks over at framersworkshop.com have a much more conservative approach about securing a celluloid: “They should not be hinged to their backings. Instead, we use no adhesives on the cels and recommend the use of edge strips that gently hold the layers in place.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the cel secured to one mat, apply some double-sided tape around the outer edges and secure the mats together back-to-back.  (I use 3M ATG tape for this.  It is not archival, but with a 2” wide mat, the ATG should be at least 1/2” away from the edge of the cel. If you are very worried about the use of ATG adhesive that close to your artwork, you could glue the mats together at the edges with acid-free glue such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/yes-stikflat-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yes Glue.&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001ANYYUI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;5&lt;/a&gt; Assemble and Secure All Layers into the Frame:&lt;/strong&gt; Again wearing cotton gloves, clean one piece of glass and place it into the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut precise 1/4” wide strips of 3/8” Foamcore for spacers. White spacers may be overly visible, in my experience black spacers are not noticeable, so either use black foamcore, or color it black with a felt pen.  Cut the Spacer parts to lengths that will fit precisely into the rabbet from corner to corner. Secure them into the frame, abutted tightly against the glass, with ATG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower the Mat-Art-Mat Sandwich into the frame, making sure the side you want to the front, is to the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the placement of black foamcore Spacer Strips behind the Mat-Art-Mat Sandwich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean and place the back piece of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secure the back glass into place.  There are many possible methods for this including &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodcraft.com/products/picture-framing-brad-setter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brad setters&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1046761-REG/logan_graphics_f500_2_dual_drive_elite_point.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;point drivers.&lt;/a&gt;  It would be risky to use these tools right next to the glass, since the points / brads could scratch the glass, and the tools (especially the point driver which is spring-loaded) could impact the glass, potentially breaking it.  (These are not concerning issues when framing art that only needs to be visible from the front of the frame and therefore has an acid-free matboard or foamcore backing.)  Since we don’t have a backing to protect the glass, I would cut 1/2” - 1” wide strips of matboard, and ATG them along the outside edges of the back glass, then with either a point-driver or brad setter, secure the glass in place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/yes-stikflat-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7&lt;/a&gt; Finishing Touches:&lt;/strong&gt; Apply a hanging wire to the back of the frame; apply felt bumpers to each corner on the back of the frame. Voilà!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-02-25T02:00:51.643" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T02:00:51.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5943" CreationDate="2019-02-25T19:25:45.420" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a very technical person, even with painting.&#xA;I wanted to set up my palette like a graph so that it does not become messy, no matter what color I want to mix. This is not an issue if I was only concerned with hue and value (e.g. hue is the X axis and value the Y). However, intensity would seem to require a third axis. Are there any established methods for laying out the three &quot;axes&quot; of color on a 2D palette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6741" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T00:17:36.280" Title="Is there a method for setting up my palette on axes by Hue, Value, and Intensity?" Tags="|painting|color|color-theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5939" CreationDate="2019-02-26T21:07:19.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could mix your fully saturated base hues on one axis, run the desaturated mixes at a right angle to those and if there is room go off on a diagonal with tints of the colors you are using. Alternately just use a different area of the pallet for tints or saturations depending on your preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than starting with a cool and warm version of the primary colors I have never heard of a standardized pallet or one that seeks to capture the entire available spectrum. Each artist I know has their own layout and each painting calls for different colors. I think you would be wasting paint and time trying to create a pallet like the color picker from Photoshop, and even in digital painting applications there are multiple areas for choosing by hue, tone or saturation. You just need to find what works for your style through experimentation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-03-05T00:17:36.280" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T00:17:36.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5939" CreationDate="2019-02-27T19:06:52.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want to achieve is impossible on a 2D surface &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; probably wouldn't help you much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you describe is pretty much the YUV color sheme. It's usually represented as a 3D cone or cylinder, with the purest colors (&lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt;ue) spread around the perimeter, medium grey (the least &lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt;aturated color) at the center and black &amp;amp; white (the colors of most and least &lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt;uminance) at the highest and lowest point, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSXhp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSXhp.png&quot; alt=&quot;YUV color cone&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 problems that make it impossible to recreate something similar on a palette are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of variables. If you insist on having 3 variables (hue, saturation, luminance) you can only represent them on 3 axes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Real paint doesn't mix like that.&lt;/strong&gt; The color cone suggests that mixing opposite colors yields grey, which is wrong. You could argue that mixing opposite colors yields the one right between them on the perimeter, but that's wrong, too. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dare you to try mixing any 2 colors and create such a vibrant violet or green. It's impossible. Have a look at these rows of mixed colors (and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://color-wheel-artist.com/complementary-colors-defined/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;corresponding blog post&lt;/a&gt;):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQ2iz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQ2iz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a computer screen, mixing yellow and blue yields green. In reality, you get a muddy, ugly brown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to recreate a digital palette in real paint, you should invest in a color wheel that displays color mixes as well, like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmNh9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmNh9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then lay your colors on the palette according to the hues you want to mix and the effects you want to create in your painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T19:06:52.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-01T11:08:08.677" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you repair scruffed sides of a hardback book cover? Here is an example of what I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3Fqb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;book cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6753" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T12:00:38.707" Title="How to repair scruffed sides of a hardback book cover?" Tags="|book-binding|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5947" CreationDate="2019-03-01T12:28:29.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually get them covered by another binding (a cute paper or inverted blank side of the paper of a calendar) or seal the edges with transparent scotch  tape (half inside of the cover, and half outside) to prevent it from further fraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6754" LastEditorUserId="6754" LastEditDate="2019-03-04T10:05:55.973" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T10:05:55.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5951" CreationDate="2019-03-01T23:02:06.137" Score="2" ViewCount="1372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to tie together about 58 strings of variable lengths with loops on each end (see pic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dM0sQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dM0sQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem that I'm having is cutting the length consistently. I need to cut the lengths accurately to about +/-2.5mm. With tying loops on each end, it's very &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; difficult to get the length correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loops will be bearing about 30 lbs (13.6kg). I'll be  tying roughly 52 lines with loops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques are there to tie two loops in a line, such that the ends are an accurate distance apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="904" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T17:30:47.467" Title="How can I precisely and quickly tie loops of line?" Tags="|knots|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5949" CreationDate="2019-03-02T01:11:06.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a brief search using &quot;diy knot tying tool,&quot; and mostly coming up with fly-fishing helpers, I think your best option would be to create a jig with pegs in the right locations. What are the right locations? That's a trial and error project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture a board of suitable length for your longest set of loops. Cut it in half and create a means to adjust the length over about a 30 cm distance. I'd use threaded rods and brackets along the side of the board, perhaps with wingnuts for ease of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At each end of the board, a series of pegs representing the loops in your selected knot around which you would wrap your lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your drawing does not show it, but for loops that will not collapse, a bowline knot is a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxbQy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxbQy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bowline knot image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main portion of your line would wrap around two pegs spaced far enough apart to pass the line through, then continue to loop (1) around the peg at the far end of the board. Add a peg, or extend the far peg as needed to adjust the size of the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once passed between the pegs (1) and wrapped back on itself, the pegs can be removed to tighten the knot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will result in a consistent length of line being used for each knot, based on a reference point in the general area of the first two pegs. Excess line at the end of the knot can be cut, but over time, you'll develop a feeling for how much is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the other end of the board, duplicate the pegs and the steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threaded rod in the middle allows you to adjust the end-to-end spacing to get the precise distance needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a knot other than a bowline is used, you may need more pegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: In the case of 58 different lengths, you have a different task, but need only one board of pegs. Provide at the base of the board a marker or a clamp to which you will reference your line length. Initially, you will place your line at the marker, tie the knot as above and then remove and untie the knot. This will give you a reference distance to determine the length of line &quot;consumed&quot; by the knot, as well as a known distance from the end of loop to the marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you place a marked line at the reference point, tie the knot, remove the knot and measure the loop distance to the reference. It's 4 cm. and consumed 10 cm of line. If you need a total of 180, you know that you have to have 180 - 4 - 4 = 172 between the markers and 172 + 10 + 10 = 192 cm of line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2019-03-02T10:37:06.463" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T10:37:06.463" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5949" CreationDate="2019-03-02T01:27:40.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Focus on the loops not the length of the string. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a guide board or jig by putting two pins (or nails depending on the weight of the cord) in a board with their distance apart being the desired length of your looped string. Then tie your loops around the pins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your loops then you can trim the cord where it exits the knot. If you then untie the loops you have an idea of how long to make the cuts before the knots are tied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good knot for making the loops might be the &quot;bowline knot&quot; since it will not slip once it is tied. Here is a diagram of it from the veritable bible of knot tying &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ashley_Book_of_Knots&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Ashley's Book of Knots&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This knot will not spill if tied properly, since you mentioned the load weight, but the cord you use has to be able to support the load and a string does not sound strong enough to support 30lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EbUz9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EbUz9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tying the Bowline knot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: I too missed the variable length part. Still, using pins would be the best way to control the length of your looped segments. Just reset the pins for each length. It is going to be easier than trying to tie each knot using the exact same amount of cord. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-03-02T17:30:47.467" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T17:30:47.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1923" CreationDate="2019-03-02T12:02:51.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good alternative would be Dental floss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T12:02:51.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-03T17:12:22.663" Score="2" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to start with some spray painting art. I am talking about a technique used to paint planets in space. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNoEQrgyAZk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered Montana Black spray paint cans (I have a feeling that this was a bad choice and I should have bought the Gold line instead) and all caps from the Montana portfolio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;But I have a problem with the amount of paint. It doesn't matter which cap I use, everytime it gives too much paint on too large an area. Is this because of the high-pressure cans? I tried to paint from a larger distance, but it covers a larger area, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;If you have any more tips, please tell me, as I am a total beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6763" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-03-03T18:35:46.297" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T19:18:58.490" Title="How can I improve my control over spray paint?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5954" CreationDate="2019-03-03T18:59:16.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray painting needs some getting used to. With these cans, you have to work quickly, and use smooth hand gestures. Mind as well, that they are used to paint large areas by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purpose, I suggest you buy cans from the Montana Gold line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Montana GOLD is the perfect tool for all artists and creative workers.&#xA;  The &lt;strong&gt;specially developed low-pressure system guarantees maximum&#xA;  accuracy&lt;/strong&gt; to meet the highest requirements while giving professional&#xA;  results! High-covering and quick-drying acrylic lacquer.&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.montana-cans.com/en/spray-cans/montana-spray-paint/gold-400ml-artist-paint/montana-gold-400ml-colors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change in coverage between different types of nozzles can be significant, too. That all of them don't work well for you, probably is a sign that you bought a wrong set - these cans are perfectly fine for (relatively) detailed work. Naturally, a stable and sure hand will also have a huge impact.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;I'd suggest you &lt;strong&gt;look into the different cap levels&lt;/strong&gt; by Montana, as demonstrated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVBQiIJOv7g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. Here is a chart showing the same differences in their levels system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eLMHq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eLMHq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Montana nozzles level comparison sheet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, other manufacturers will have different and specialized nozzles, as well. I suggest you compare whatever brand you can get your hands on, and see for yourself which work the best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;As for some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After use, turn the can upside down, and spray (unto something that is allowed to go to waste) until only the gas comes out. This will clean both the nozzle, and the tube of the can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additionally, clean the nozzles directly after use. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIhY4zfLPZM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a good way to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have only rarely used spray paint for detailed work in the past, so as to working techniques, I cannot really give any - except the general rule that practice makes perfect: keep experimenting and your technique (and fun) will improve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-03-03T19:18:58.490" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T19:18:58.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5939" CreationDate="2019-03-03T19:04:54.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest answer I can think of is two use two palletes, or divide your pallette into two sections, and use them for seperate things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you could have one pallete that is for the hue and saturation and then have white and black on the separate pallete. When you get the desired hue and saturation you move it to the white pallet and mix the value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could organize these in circles or lines, it doesn't matter, what matters is organizing it in a way that makes sense and works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very helpful tool for this is a numbered grey scale, in addition to the color wheel. Many illustrators begin each piece in greyscale, to make sure the image reads properly, and then match the value of the colors they mix to the value of the greyscale drawing accordingly. It's a great way to break down your coloring process and achieve consistency. Which is why I would recommend using your second pallets just for value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6764" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T19:04:54.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5348" CreationDate="2019-03-04T10:03:14.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kind of embossing powder that I'm familiar with, is melted with a heat gun. After being melted, it gets smooth and creates an embossed layer above the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think any kind of strong durable paper that can tolerate heat as well as a little weight, e.g. card stock, could work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6754" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T10:03:14.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-05T02:08:44.150" Score="2" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning to knit and I can cast on just fine. I can also knit stitch quite well. I have not learned the purl stitch yet as I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong. Whenever I knit stitch, the last stitch always has a big loop in it that I cannot remove. I've tried pulling from all different places but the loop stays there. One time i thought I fixed it, but I ended up with 11 stitches when I started with 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user6770" LastEditorDisplayName="user6770" LastEditDate="2019-03-05T02:16:25.033" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T05:26:15.530" Title="Why do I keep getting a loop when knitting?" Tags="|knitting|yarn|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-06T16:27:32.203" Score="4" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing some work in pastel and colored pencils. I like to finish the fine white details with a white pen. At the moment, I'm working with a white gel pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, either the ink (the gel) isn't flowing properly on the heavily burnished parts, or it clogs up when drawing on the dusty pastel layer. So, in short, drawing the final white details is a battle and takes a lot of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering, does anybody here have a solution for adding the fine white details in such a drawing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="925" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T23:51:59.007" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T10:01:40.707" Title="Drawing with white ink on a colored/pastel pencil artwork without the pen clogging up" Tags="|colored-pencils|ink|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5961" CreationDate="2019-03-07T05:29:41.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use white paint with a fine tip brush (0 size) or a white correction pen to add the white details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6754" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T05:29:41.330" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5961" CreationDate="2019-03-07T08:36:47.900" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you use white acrylic ink with either a dip pen or a fine pointed brush (whatever suits you better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6776" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T08:36:47.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-07T22:26:20.843" Score="2" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im working on a project with aluminum Ive machined. I want to give it the rainbowy effect of heated steel known as the “heat affected zone”. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the most realistic result? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Snx62.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Snx62.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastEditorUserId="606" LastEditDate="2019-03-08T23:34:20.127" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T23:34:20.127" Title="Realistic tempered steel effect on aluminum" Tags="|medium-selection|metal|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5965" CreationDate="2019-03-08T00:54:55.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the only option available would be to use anodizing of a single or multiple colors. There are many resources, especially the YouTube type that can advise you. One recent video that is clearly presented is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnUUJjplIgg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Easy Aluminum Anodizing - Wawa dog tag&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's generally considered difficult to get uniform coloration, although the result in the video is quite good. In your case you may not want it to be particularly uniform. You can accomplish gradients by immersing the part in stages. The first section will be in the longest and have the deepest coloring, while later segments will be in for less time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reverse can be true too, in that you immerse the entire part and remove it in gradual stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat can't be used to accomplish the desired effect. It works great on some steel and on titanium, but simply melts aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T00:54:55.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4290" CreationDate="2019-03-08T11:39:32.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Elephant Hide, also known as Wyndstone Marble, is a very strong bookbinding paper which you might find in some art supply stores and online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T11:39:32.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2447" CreationDate="2019-03-09T00:24:28.910" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make your own.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I buy my seed beads at the dollar store: sometimes at Walmart or in craft stores when on sale.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Use a coffee grinder, with different small shifters.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Wait until the dust settles in the grinder (you do not want to breath in any particles), then shift with the smallest shifter first, then the second, and so on. You'll get 3 to 4 different grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To apply, use triple thick, or a Beacon glue product&lt;/strong&gt; (they are very good). You may want to buy the Christmas glass balls. Put them in 2-3 strong bags, secure and bang them to pieces: use a rolling pin to crush them to bits.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you like, use a grinder's 1 to 2 pulse shift, then grind the larger pieces. I tell you: they look like German glass glitter. So save some money and DIY. Happy grinding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T14:48:18.470" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T14:48:18.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5971" CreationDate="2019-03-09T11:08:35.907" Score="3" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am binding a book using the traditional technique of sewing the signatures. In addition to these signatures I have a few single pages which should go between some of the signatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard technique for doing so? I do not want to simply glue them in since I am afraid that then they tend to fall out later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="804" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T09:05:09.930" Title="How to sew in a single page into a book" Tags="|sewing|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-09T11:56:04.723" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m a complete beginner to drawing. I never do doodles, I have struggles just from drawing a hand or a fork, my hand writing is ugly as hell... I want to learn and practice drawing with the final target is to be able to draw a fine doujinshi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to learn drawing, but don’t know where to start. Can you give me advice for this? I need step by step of what to learn from the very beginning to the end, in the right order. For example: &#xA;1. Practice steady hand.&#xA;2. Drawing straight line.&#xA;3. Drawing cube&#xA;... &#xA;69. Draw characters from many perspectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to focus on practicing things that benefits drawing manga, other skills is not needed, e.g knowing how to draw a detailed and realistic face. Also, I planned to get a drawing tablet  and go digital after I can draw decently, so maybe things that can achieved easily by software tools, like drawing manga frames, can be skipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wonder why I don’t just google for “drawing manga tutorial” already, here is the reason:&#xA;- If I search for “drawing manga tutorial”, mot of them assume the readers know how to draw already, so the very first lesson seems too advanced for me.&#xA;- If I search for regular “drawing tutorials” it may contains some redundant lessons that doesn’t benefit drawing manga and I don’t want to waste time for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can share some detailed online tutorial, it will be very welcomed, if not, please give me the steps I need and mentioned above, I’ll google tutorial for each of them myself. Any help is appreciated, thank you very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6786" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T04:37:19.613" Title="I’m a complete beginner. What’s the shortest way to learn drawing manga?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2019-03-21T14:39:50.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5969" CreationDate="2019-03-09T13:14:02.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to add signatures to a completed sewn binding, you would have to unpick the binding, add the signatures, then re-sew the binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Individual pages (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philobiblon.com/gbwarticle/bindterm.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;leaves&lt;/a&gt;) cannot be sewn into the signature unless they have an excess at the binding edge which you can fold into the signature crease.  Without the excess, you will need to glue the leaf to their neighbouring leaves with a thin bead of glue as close to the binding as possible.  This will be the most secure possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastEditorUserId="1997" LastEditDate="2019-03-10T09:05:09.930" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T09:05:09.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2019-03-09T13:33:45.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you are saying it sounds like you are getting a loop at the end of your run of knit stitches when you go to purl stitch.  If this is the case, I have experimented to confirm the cause and believe you are not bringing the yarn around the needle to the front before you purl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not bring the yarn over your needle.  This could possibly be why you are also getting an extra stitch (11 stitches instead of 10).  It needs to go around it to the front (bring it in between the 2 needles to get it to the front). Knit stitch has the yarn at the back, and purl stitch has the yarn at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastEditorUserId="5931" LastEditDate="2019-03-09T13:45:03.697" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T13:45:03.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6009" CreationDate="2019-03-09T14:02:16.980" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to reborning, and I am concerned about the use of heat set paints and vapours released from heating the vinyl doll parts to set the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at air drying paints as a safer option, but would like to know if the finish is as professional and realistic looking as using the heat set paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastEditorUserId="5931" LastEditDate="2019-03-09T14:08:35.327" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T01:16:38.783" Title="Doll reborning paints" Tags="|paint|doll-reborning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5974" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-03-09T14:21:21.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reborn_doll&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reborn doll&lt;/a&gt; is a manufactured doll that has been transformed by an artist to resemble a human infant with as much realism as possible. The process of creating a reborn doll is referred to as reborning and the doll artists are referred to as reborners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastEditorUserId="5931" LastEditDate="2019-03-16T17:09:52.150" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T17:09:52.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5975" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-03-09T14:21:21.457" Score="0" Body="A reborn doll is a manufactured doll that has been transformed by an artist to resemble a human infant with as much realism as possible. The process of creating a reborn doll is referred to as reborning and the doll artists are referred to as reborners." OwnerUserId="5931" LastEditorUserId="5931" LastEditDate="2019-03-16T17:09:39.217" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T17:09:39.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-09T14:42:35.147" Score="1" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a book which is paperback and very large: 697 A4 pages. It appears to be what is called &lt;em&gt;perfect bound&lt;/em&gt;, that is, where the spine is adhered directly to the back of the pages. At a minimum, I am going to put a hard cover onto it to protect the corners which I know will otherwise inevitably be damaged in the normal course of use. I am not anticipating excessively heavy use, but I'm definitely going to use the book and at 700 pages there's a lot to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the cover, I am worried about the binding. I am wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I do a good job putting hard covers on it, but leave the current binding intact, how much should I be worried that it will break down, considering the size and weight of the book, and the nature of perfect binding? Is there anything I can inspect to get a sense of how good the binding is?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the binding is glued, is it even possible to sew it instead? Would there even be signatures? Or is there some other way to solidify it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That looks like a lot of different questions, but they are just different angles on this question: &lt;strong&gt;If I want this large book to last, should I rework the binding in addition to the cover?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6783" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T19:05:28.787" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T19:05:28.787" Title="Converting a new, large perfect bound paperback to a durable hardback" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6122" CreationDate="2019-03-09T15:29:16.037" Score="1" ViewCount="1797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a beautiful old book from 1869 which, greatly to my chagrin, has been damaged: one of the boards has come off. I would like to repair the book, or at least understand enough about how it ought to be repaired that I can shop around intelligently for someone to repair it. Is is possible to re-attach the board while preserving both the beautiful marbled end papers, the solid old-style sewn binding, and the elegant leather cover? How would one approach such a repair? (I am somewhat conversant in book repair and binding terminology, but not skilled in it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOAVd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zOAVd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the marbled end papers, detached board, and binding&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6783" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T19:05:09.340" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T06:56:34.557" Title="Repairing a detached cover on an old leather-bound, sewn book with marbled end papers" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5976" CreationDate="2019-03-10T01:06:49.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a much better candidate for honing your book-repair/book-binding skills.  If your goal is solely to increase the book's durability, then you have several options available...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the book is recently published, it may be available as an e-book.  Author's will sometimes offer discounted e-book versions of their books to owners of physically printed copies.  E-books are the ultimate in durability as even if your e-book-reader gets destroyed, as a registered owner, you can usually just download a new copy into your new reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyPaSAjCTqo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;use a blow dryer&lt;/a&gt; to separate the pages of your perfectly bound copy, then put them in &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B078G44XSD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sheet protectors&lt;/a&gt; and mount them in a three ring binder.  I did that to some of my college textbooks thirty years ago and they are still perfectly readable today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a real binding solution, it is pretty simple to add cardboard reinforcements to the currently soft covers and spine.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyIw2bFOtVE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a very complete tutorial on that process.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that level, you will need to separate the pages as in the 3-ring binder approach, but once you have done that, a number of diy book binding techniques become available.  There is a youtube channel called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2F704E01F80BA1E9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sea Lemon&lt;/a&gt; which goes over quite a few string binding techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T01:06:49.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5970" CreationDate="2019-03-10T05:56:27.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are making a false assumption on what to learn to draw good manga. Learning general drawing skills will &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be a waste of time because they underpin the more stylized artwork of manga. You already have an idea of what to do: start drawing lines, shapes, basic stuff to train your hand and eye. Read books on basic drawing (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drawright.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawing On the Right Side of Your Brain&lt;/a&gt;) and/or take an drawing course at a continuing ed program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not have to become a master of portraiture, but (eventually) studying how to draw a realistic face will improve the structure and form of your manga faces. Take your time, experiment, and practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T05:56:27.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2019-03-10T12:52:54.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to an overlock machine, you'll get really good results. I've heard that people like to put woolly thread in their overlock, but I haven't tried. I like how the overlock gives me a nice stretch stitch even with regular cotton threads. The inside looks clean and professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a regular sewing machine, use a zigzag stitch. Play around with the width and length, but I'd start with a 2.5 in each and try to keep them the same (longer width, longer length). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like the walking foot. When you use that, line your fabrics up and if you need to, use pins to keep them together as you near the needle. Make sure they are feeding at the same speed (you'll notice if they aren't if one of the pieces of fabric is stretching longer than the other by the next pin). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower pressure setting of the pressure foot will also allow the fabric to feed &quot;easier&quot;, without it stretching as it sews, so it'll help the two pieces of fabric feed at the same rate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6788" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T12:52:54.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5970" CreationDate="2019-03-11T14:20:22.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite simply, &lt;strong&gt;you can't effectively simplify subjects and backgrounds&lt;/strong&gt; for a comic &lt;strong&gt;until you have learned how to draw them properly&lt;/strong&gt; in the first place. There is no &quot;magic manga shortcut,&quot; with or without using technology. The reason the tutorials you've seen expect that you already know how to draw is because that is a prerequisite for drawing a comic. Just like you can't do calculus unless you understand basic math, you can't do stylized art without understanding the structure of the subject you're stylizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creating a proper comic goes beyond simply being able to draw a face or a hand. A comic includes props, clothing designs, and backgrounds, so you'll need to learn to draw everything, not just a character. You'll need to learn multi-point perspective, lighting and shading, fabric draping, and more to be able to convey your setting effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, &lt;strong&gt;creating a proper comic goes far beyond just drawing&lt;/strong&gt;. Where most people fail, besides thinking there's a &quot;magic manga shortcut&quot; and not learning their basics, is thinking that because they have read a comic or two, they now know everything there is on how to create their own. Very few people actually put the pieces together properly, resulting in a lot of very poorly constructed web comics, fan comics, and even professionally created comics! There are multiple books on how to construct a comic, for good reason. It's less intuitive than you think it is. If nothing else, you should pick up a copy of &lt;em&gt;Understanding Comics&lt;/em&gt; by Scott McCloud, so you can start to understand how and why comics work. From there, I recommend &lt;em&gt;Making Comics&lt;/em&gt; by the same author, and &lt;em&gt;Drawing Words and Writing Pictures&lt;/em&gt; by Jessica Abel and Matt Madden. The former contains some basic guidelines and tutorials; the latter is constructed as a full comics-making class.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, once you've learned the fundamentals, found your style, and learned how to put together a comic, don't think you're going to create your master work on the very first try. You can't. &lt;strong&gt;You need to put everything together and practice.&lt;/strong&gt; The number I've generally heard quoted is &quot;You need to draw 200 pages before you start drawing good ones.&quot; You need to work hard to create a good comic. There are no shortcuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T14:20:22.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5961" CreationDate="2019-03-12T10:01:40.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://emptyeasel.com/2014/05/19/when-and-how-to-use-spray-fixative-on-soft-pastel-paintings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spray fixative&lt;/a&gt; such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cowlingandwilcox.com/mediums-varnishes/240-winsor-newton-professional-fixative-aerosol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; to fix the pastel etc. to the page.  This way, the artwork stays on the paper, leaving you to put anything you wish on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheaper alternative that some say works is to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thoughtco.com/using-hairspray-as-fixative-for-pastels-2579023&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;use hairspray&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T10:01:40.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-12T20:49:39.713" Score="2" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iKQ5J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iKQ5J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know what kind of stitch is shown in this picture. Can I make it with a brother sewing machine cs6000i?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6800" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-03-16T18:26:56.307" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T01:04:18.690" Title="What kind of stitch is this?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-14T13:43:20.793" Score="3" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, apologies for my last rant. I've been very stressed lately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I guess I &lt;em&gt;meant&lt;/em&gt; to ask, was that if I'm doing everything wrong, how do I start over? I'm actually decent at drawing detailed small scenes if I have a lot of time, but any drawing with more than a couple characters, even if they're literal stick figures, makes me freeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it's sort of like rendering tons of entities at a time in a game. So how do I actually come back to when I was five? I tried drawabox but it didn't work for me because it assumes I have a natural grip on my pencil, which I don't. I know I must adjust my grip anyway, but what can I do &lt;em&gt;while&lt;/em&gt; I'm trying to fix it? Sorry again for rambling,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user6804" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T22:06:59.197" Title="How do I start over?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5988" CreationDate="2019-03-16T06:21:40.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the ways I start over:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walk away and leave the work out of sight for a few days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sketch out the scene on something that does not matter. Do that 10 or even 20&#xA;times. For example, I bought a roll of paper (40cm X 50 metres) for $5 and allow myself to waste this sketching out small compositions and tonal studies in charcoal (6x4&quot;) before I commit to working on a canvas. Sometimes I'll do 30 studies and eventually break through to a sense of flow and connect with the art again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What causes this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found freezing is also caused by a fear of commitment, that is, worrying about being unable to undo errors, being imperfect, or worrying about wasting materials like paper or paint. Sometimes it simply means I'm not sure what to do next. Being judged by others is a big one: I've stopped asking for feedback from family members. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other solutions in a highly-regarded small book &quot;Art and Fear&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a copy of Art and Fear. Here's a quote from it:  “Fears about artmaking fall into two families: fears about yourself and fears about your reception by others.” &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;― David Bayles, &lt;em&gt;Art and Fear: Observations on the Perils (and Rewards) of Artmaking&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will always have these fears!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ask the art what it wants. Dialogue with your art&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an approach derived from arts therapy (McNiff, S, &lt;em&gt;Art as Medicine&lt;/em&gt;, Shambala Publications, Boston, 1992) (I recently completed a Grad. Dip. in this field). In its simplest form, settle yourself down, look at the work and gently invite the work to tell you what it wants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final note about art classes, and working on more than one work at once&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a drawing class where the tutor can help, but to do that, speak to the tutor before you enrol and ask if they can help you. My experience is some tutors are very good at understanding how to manage our relationship with our art. One of current tutors has me working on three works at once, on small cheap canvasses. This has worked for me, and help me loosen up, and not get so attached to the one work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-03-16T22:06:59.197" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T22:06:59.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5993" CreationDate="2019-03-16T07:24:56.173" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a complete amateur with no formal training in Art. I am interested in the Art of Sketching. Since I have no teacher, trainer, or adviser, I do not know how my sketches. I am providing here a sample of my artwork in two versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven’t delved in this business for long and hence it is quite reasonable that I will be making errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All suggestions, constructive criticisms, appreciations are welcome, and in case you are answering (yes I am speaking to YOU) Thank-You!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Samples in original and darkened formats as below -&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cvtrY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cvtrY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKd1z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKd1z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6819" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T09:22:34.293" Title="How is my Art and how can I improve?" Tags="|drawing|portrait-drawing|sketching|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-03-16T17:10:26.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5992" CreationDate="2019-03-16T09:22:34.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually both a really easy, and a really difficult question to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the wonderful things about art is that it is different to everyone. So you need to think about where you want to get to. Is it photorealism? Is it accuracy in still life? Is it shading? Some artists want their portraits to remain abstract, some want pinpoint accuracy. From your two pictures you'd need to let us know how much you like each one. I can see arguments for either being the better one - so trying to do that here would be a bit opinion-based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So identifying where you want to go is key - and a really useful way to do this is to look at art. In galleries, in books, online, everywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then practice. Either with tuition, or help from sites such as this, or from the plethora of YouTube videos teaching this subject to guide you. And show people if you do need their opinion. Ask them what they like - but remember you don't need to follow their preferences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to progress as effectively as possible, there isn't really a substitute for art classes, teaching technique, styles, history etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T09:22:34.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-16T09:34:53.223" Score="4" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a few cheap pear-shaped synthetic rubies and want to craft a pendant and earrings. (They &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/412788/how-can-i-test-if-a-ruby-is-real&quot;&gt;are real&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/90351/cubic-zirconia-additives-and-toxicity#comment165200_90351&quot;&gt;I'm assuming as safe as CZ&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AwczC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AwczC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(Image license: Public domain)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What type of material should I use for the prong fittings?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd rather not use a very expensive metal like gold or platinum. However, I  definitely want to &lt;em&gt;avoid&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3047925/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;contact dermatitis&lt;/a&gt; which is usually caused by &lt;strong&gt;nickel&lt;/strong&gt; based alloys with about 17% of females being allergic to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other metals can cause allergies too, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5560191/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cobalt, palladium&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://health.clevelandclinic.org/are-you-allergic-to-metals-6-surprising-places-they-may-lurk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;etc&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Other fitting options?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went with prongs but are there any more suitable fitting options for those gemstones? They are 10x12 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6816" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T18:44:38.667" Title="Making earrings and a pendant with rubies. Materials to avoid for the prong fitting" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5998" CreationDate="2019-03-16T17:53:43.317" Score="1" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel that sewing is a form of craft, so here goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some jeans that I want to shorten the length of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to do so without hemming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-03-21T14:43:40.390" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T03:47:29.293" Title="Hem pants less expensively" Tags="|sewing|clothing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5984" CreationDate="2019-03-16T18:35:00.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is most likely either an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=overlock%20stitch&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;overlock stitch&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=serger%20stitch&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;serger stitch&lt;/a&gt;. These are used to finish edges to prevent fraying and give a professional appearance to a sewn item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The overlock stitch is a combination of a straight stitch and a&#xA;  zigzag. It sews backwards and forwards in a straight line, but between&#xA;  every set of straight stitches, it sews a zigzag. If done correctly,&#xA;  this resembles serging, which is how most store-bought clothes are&#xA;  sewn. (&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yesterdaysthimble.com/articles/basics-overlock-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yesterday's Thimble&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it looks like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3MTAL93aco&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;there are a few different overlock stitches on the Brother CS6000i&lt;/a&gt;! To get that very compressed look as in your example picture, you would want the stitch length to be pretty short in comparison to the width. As always, experiment with a few sample pieces of fabric before you put your final piece through!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T18:35:00.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5999" CreationDate="2019-03-17T11:05:37.037" Score="2" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to draw something subtle yet loud and ended up with the following. I am not classically trained at all and do not have much knowledge regarding styles and schools of art. After this drawing I was very interested to know if my drawing falls in any well known form of art and how can I better myself at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The referred drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVGAv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVGAv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6819" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T10:46:04.887" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T14:17:29.793" Title="Is there a formal name for an artwork such as this?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5995" CreationDate="2019-03-17T13:31:33.320" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;strong&gt;Hemming tape&lt;/strong&gt;. It looks like it should work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hemming tape is a smart and innovative way to hem your clothing or other fabric items without having to use a needle and thread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wash your clothing item as directed on the care label. Avoid using&#xA;  fabric softeners in the washing machine or the dryer, as the adhesive&#xA;  may not stick as well to the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Turn your clothing item inside out. Remove curtains or drapes and lay&#xA;  them flat, with the back side up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hold the hemming tape up against the item that you need to hem. Cut&#xA;  off a sufficient amount to fully cover the inside of the hem. For&#xA;  large items, such as curtains, work in small sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Iron the fabric to create a crease in the hem. Be sure to follow the&#xA;  care directions on the label of the fabric. Some fabrics are too&#xA;  delicate for an iron and their hems may require a seamstress or&#xA;  tailor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove the backing from the hemming tape. Handle the tape carefully so&#xA;  that it does not get wrinkled or tangled before applying it to the&#xA;  fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place the hemming tape inside the fold that forms the hem. Make sure&#xA;  the rough edge is facing downward. The adhesive will act like a glue&#xA;  to hold the fabric pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Follow the directions on the hemming packet and set the iron at the&#xA;  appropriate temperature. Place the iron onto the fabric and hold it&#xA;  there for a few seconds. Continue ironing all the sections until the&#xA;  material is bonded together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Turn the material right side out and again iron the hem area. Allow&#xA;  the section to cool and your article of clothing or curtain is ready&#xA;  to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-from &lt;a href=&quot;https://ourpastimes.com/use-hemming-tape-6541765.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ourpastimes.com/use-hemming-tape-6541765.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-03-21T00:03:52.487" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T00:03:52.487" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5997" CreationDate="2019-03-17T19:17:53.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're referring to the technique, that's &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stippling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stippling&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pointillism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pointillism&lt;/a&gt; if made in color. Images created in this style are composed of numerous dots that form a picture if viewed from afar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stippling is the creation of a pattern simulating varying degrees of solidity or shading by using small dots&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rebusB helpfully pointed out that it seems to be a picture created in Photoshop or similar software. &lt;strong&gt;That makes is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;digital art&lt;/a&gt;, no matter what other technique it resembles.&lt;/strong&gt; The reason is that creating artwork on a computer is fundamentally different from creating the same artwork with paint or pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're referring to the content of your image, unfortunately I cannot help you. It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expressionism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Expressionism&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not sure it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be categorized clearly as any art form or style because it doesn't have much to categorize. Don't get me wrong, it's not bad or anything, it's just not enough there to call it &quot;realism&quot; or &quot;neo-classicism&quot; or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T07:32:04.530" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T07:32:04.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6003" CreationDate="2019-03-18T08:00:33.413" Score="3" ViewCount="1790" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine has scratched her Ruby with another of the same gemstone. The scratch is little, and just on the surface. Is there any way to restore the polish? The ruby is smooth, similar to the one in the picture, and blood red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aCJnp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aCJnp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6754" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T18:41:02.530" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T18:41:02.530" Title="Polishing a scratched Ruby" Tags="|jewelry|restoration|stones|lapidary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5994" CreationDate="2019-03-18T10:03:38.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could create a wirework bezel setting or prong setting, whichever you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the choice of metal, you could use copper wire, or copper wire which has been plated in gold or silver.  These options are available from jewellery making suppliers such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jewellerymaker.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jewellery Maker&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.createandcraft.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Create &amp;amp; Craft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T10:03:38.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-18T12:03:40.297" Score="2" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a very thin wire (slightly thicker than fuse wire), that is flexible, but still able to be twisted together. These earrings are for figurines, that are held together and pushed into a hole, and slightly spring open so they do not fall out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have researched piano wire, guitar wire, wire wrapping wire and others - but I don't want to spend a lot of money just to find the right product. The full length of the earring in the picture is only about 3.5cm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXIoG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IXIoG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flexible Wire Earring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6822" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T20:10:27.370" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T20:10:27.370" Title="Looking for a springy thin wire to make earrings with" Tags="|jewelry|wire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6000" CreationDate="2019-03-18T13:08:01.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the scratch is small enough but has discolored edges (like a scratched or chipped glass) then you could rub some vaseline or silicone oil over it to even out the light refraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the scratch is deeper, I'm afraid there's not much you can do but grind the stone down and polish it again. Filling the scratch with things like clear nail polish, spray varnish or epoxy resign will most likely end up with an unnatural look. And you would have to treat the undamaged stone as well or their color and gloss will differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly advise against using any abrasive material on the stone yourself. In the best case you end up dulling the gloss, worst case you just add more scratches. If you decide to repolish the stone, let a professional do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T13:08:01.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6002" CreationDate="2019-03-18T13:15:28.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The look of it strongly reminds me of christmas tree balls. They even work according to the same principle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you have some old christmas tree balls you don't like anymore or one that's broken. Pull the cap out and remove the wire from the rest of the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T13:15:28.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-18T19:40:15.790" Score="4" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to create woven patches as a hobby. I was playing a bit with embroidery patches, but I want to see the difference between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: what would be a starting weaving/looming machine for home use that does not require an entire room to store it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6823" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-03-20T13:46:42.523" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T13:53:46.060" Title="Advice on weaving/looming machine" Tags="|weaving|embroidery|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6018" CreationDate="2019-03-20T21:55:01.443" Score="2" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought about using a charcoal lump (you know, the regular stove coal) as a stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make it stop leaving black marks on anything it touches? Like, sealing it, or something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2149" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-03-21T14:42:19.903" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T14:58:17.130" Title="Is it possible to make a charcoal lump stop leaving marks?" Tags="|charcoal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5973" CreationDate="2019-03-21T01:16:38.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the process involved and the toxicity and the heat setting relate directly to the vinyl paints &lt;em&gt;bonding&lt;/em&gt; with the base material to essentially become one complex surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air drying paints on top of the plastic will not have the same translucency as the bonded vinyl paints so I think the answer is no as far as &quot;realism&quot; goes since it is the translucency, also known as subsurface scattering, that is mimicking the behavior of light on real skin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T01:16:38.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6016" CreationDate="2019-03-21T10:28:53.860" Score="4" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make the following symbol from crafting metal wire (5 mm) for a pendant. (It is a combination of zodiac symbols, for anyone who's curious.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How can I join the wire in between the places where the lines are overlapping (&lt;em&gt;the blue encircled part&lt;/em&gt;), as well as where the two horns of the Aries symbol are emerging from the branch (&lt;em&gt;the green encircled part&lt;/em&gt;)?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Could you suggest a successful method &lt;strong&gt;other than soldering&lt;/strong&gt;?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other advice would be appreciated too, as I'm new to this. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HE7o2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HE7o2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6754" LastEditorUserId="6754" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T10:09:25.753" LastActivityDate="2020-01-25T01:44:39.370" Title="Advice for making wired jewelry charm" Tags="|jewelry|wire|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6013" CreationDate="2019-03-21T15:43:04.933" Score="5" ViewCount="4512" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my current knowledge, light increases the saturation of a color. If that's the case, then the form shadow of an object should have lower saturation than the part of the object hit by light (not the highlight; just the part of the object that's between the highlight and terminator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after studying both traditional and digital artists' works, I noticed that many people increase the saturation in the shadows and decrease it in the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do they do that? Are they simply using artistic license because they don't want to lose color in the shadows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6833" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T07:52:01.313" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T18:31:32.817" Title="How does light affect saturation?" Tags="|color|lighting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6012" CreationDate="2019-03-21T16:41:27.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's take a look at a photo of a colored object.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is a simple, bright blue 20-sided die. I picked this because the shape and lighting make it easy to see multiple levels of brightness.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/treZG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/treZG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then took this image and imported it into Adobe Color Wheel, which has quickly become one of my favorite tools for analyzing palettes when I don't have access to an art program. I find digital tools are a great supplement for learning traditional art skills, especially when you're teaching yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3Igb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3Igb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the immediate observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hues all &amp;quot;line&amp;quot; up, which we should expect. It's a single-color object (excluding the text), and the lighting is clear and white, so there's no hue shifting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tool captured the range of brightness levels, so we should be OK using this as an example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, looking at the actually HSB number, we can see the shadow is actually slightly less saturated than the midtones, but the caveat here is that it's based on the pixel selected for that color. Picking different pixels from the &amp;quot;15&amp;quot; side in the shadow yield slight differences in saturation, and mainly it's on-par with the midtones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as you've observed in artworks, the highlighted sides (17, 18), have decreased in saturation. Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's talk about light!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way that light and objects interact is inverted from what we actually see. So a bright blue object like this, which is almost &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; blue, actually &lt;em&gt;reflects&lt;/em&gt; Blue light back to our eyes. &lt;strong&gt;The object itself is absorbing Red and Green light (when basing this on the RGB color scale, which is what visible light is based on)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you shine white light onto an object, you're essentially shining all colors onto that object (the die, here). The shadows, receiving less light, will still absorb the Red and Green light, reflecting back lower &lt;em&gt;amounts&lt;/em&gt; of Blue light. Because the amount of light is reduced, the &lt;em&gt;brightness&lt;/em&gt; value on the HSB (Hue/Saturation/Brightness) scale with be lower, but the Hue and Saturation stay essentially the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But as you increase the amount, or intensity, of the white light being cast on the die, you reach a point where the physical properties of the object can't absorb as much Red and Green light&lt;/strong&gt;, so it starts reflecting some of that, as well. When the light is strong enough, or a point reflective enough, it may even appear to us as pure white, which is a color with no saturation (like pure black or grey).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the light being reflected back is no longer pure Blue, the saturation decreases. This is because saturation (colorfulness, chroma, intensity, etc) is measured by the difference in the levels of color from gray, or in other words the difference in the dominant hue(s) from the remaining hue(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also explains why shadows of a form still often maintain the same level of saturation: the die has no problem absorbing the meager amount of Red and Green being cast on it. Although, in this case, the object does absorb &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; Blue, so at low enough levels, we might see the saturation decrease, because proportion of reflected Blue light is lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all this is mostly the theoretical application of light as it would apply to art. Rarely is a subject going to be lit from a single, clear, diffuse white light. Most environments are going to have multiple light sources, often not pure, and you'll be dealing with reflection of colored light off nearby objects. That's when the artistic eye and choices really come into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:04:00.043" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:04:00.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6011" CreationDate="2019-03-22T12:28:45.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry, but I have my doubts you could ever create this design with metal wires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have suggested using either epoxy resin or a similar glue or a slightly flexible power adhesive, but there are several problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The overlap in the blue circle is very thin (fragile), but has to withstand high leverage forces because of the long structure attached to it. You need to join both symbols in the bottom margin of the design as well to make it more stable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to roughen the surface of the metal to give the adhesive something to grab onto. This can be done with a nail file or a knife, but it might bend the wires too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy is a strong adhesive, but it's inflexible and no more solid than plastic, so it breaks easily if it's too thin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A flexible power adhesive doesn't break, but in general it needs a bigger surface area to be able to hold objects together. Many power adhesives have to be &quot;activated&quot; by applying a force, which would bend your pendant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The adhesive will show. There's not a chance you can apply so little adhesive that it won't be squeezed out but still hold both pieces together. In fact, the safest solution would probably be to completely coat the juncture in resin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to glue wires together, I think you could try sawing the pattern out of a solid metal plate. Then everything is connected from the beginning and you don't have to solder / glue pieces together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could encase the whole design in resin (like a mosquito in amber). A google search for &quot;resin jewelry&quot; yields many different approaches (with and without molds) and products (resins and accessories).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T13:20:36.880" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T13:20:36.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6011" CreationDate="2019-03-22T13:38:49.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than using wire, you could create the design using precious metal clay such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_clay#Silver_metal_clay&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silver metal clay&lt;/a&gt; and setting it in a kiln or you can use a blow torch and fire-proof mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fine silver metal clay results in objects containing 99.9% pure silver, which is suitable for enameling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T13:38:49.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6008" CreationDate="2019-03-23T10:03:43.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways you can do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't say whether you wanted to maintain the natural colours within the coal or not, but if you do, you can use a clear spray lacquer, coat it in clear furniture varnish or any other coating that will seal the coal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggestion by @BellaSwan of using  clear acrylic spray or nail paint will do the trick too but it will take a lot of nail paint bottles to coat a reasonable size chunk of coal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to colour the coal lump, then you can use whatever kind of paint you choose; emulsion, eggshell, chalk-based, even gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T10:03:43.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6008" CreationDate="2019-03-24T02:48:51.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another approach to coating the coal is to submerge it in a liquid so you can be sure to seal every crack and surface imperfection. The amount of weight it needs to bear might be a factor in choosing a sealant too (you said it was a stand). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were really worried about the weight, or the strength of the sealant I'd be using a 2 pack clear epoxy finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Budget approach to high strength sealant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a cheaper way out, my next choice would be to dunk it in a tin of slate-and-tile sealer, as this is designed for heavy foot traffic. Then I'd give it a second or even a third coat (dunking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd give a link for slate sealer to a local Australian hardware, but I'm not sure which country you're in.  Just check it is non-yellowing, and do the dunking in the open air. The products I have used stink of nasty toxic chemicals when wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-03-24T02:48:51.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-24T09:18:01.253" Score="2" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;The project involves making a papier-mache tree, about 50cm high. So, I need to make a wire armature first but I'm not sure what type of wire would be ok to use (naturally, I don't want it to get rusty inside or something). Perhaps copper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6838" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T21:05:36.020" Title="What wire would be suitable for a papier-mache armature?" Tags="|metal|wire|papier-mache|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6020" CreationDate="2019-03-24T16:27:18.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest aluminum : moderately corrosion resistant, inexpensive, easy to bend and cut, easily available. Look for it at farm supply store as electric fence wire. It does come in a fairly long spool but I find other uses for it like holding chicken and roasts on a rotisserie and in the garden holding branches etc. Aluminum is not very strong but you would have a lot of it so double and triple it for strength. And corrosion products are white so would not show unlike any copper corrosion near a surface which could cause blue/green stains. For limited size and number of items , insulated solid (not stranded) copper ( electric wire) should not be too expensive. Size near 12 gage should bend and cut without difficulty. Also coated steel wire is sold for bonsai plants but I expect it is expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="3114" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T21:05:36.020" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T21:05:36.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6024" CreationDate="2019-03-25T22:13:03.070" Score="3" ViewCount="1426" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to dye a store bought Pashmina? &#xA;If so, is there anything I should to do it before putting it into a regular dye-bath using RIT dye? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bgg34.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bgg34.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pashmina&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Any recommended process that would help “fix” the dye afterwards?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQRZk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQRZk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;texture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; here’s a closeup of the tag and texture of it. &#xA;Thanks  &#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T15:37:34.163" Title="Dyeing Pashmina" Tags="|fabric|dyeing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6023" CreationDate="2019-03-26T13:38:50.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pashmina or cashmere is a type of wool, and therefore a natural fiber, so the dye you use will need to be appropriate for natural fibers. As a type of wool, cashmere will shrink in hot water, which is necessary for many types of dye. You may wish to test on a lower cost or damaged piece before dying anything you value, to ensure you avoid shrinkage and felting. These effects can be minimized by moving the finished item as little as possible in the hot water bath, and by keeping the rinse water at a similar temperature to the dye bath, allowing the fabric and rinse water to cool down together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5ac4eb022971149bb6d709d3/t/5c5e1cd8652deabd42d1f962/1549671640644/Jacquard-Dye-Road-Map-2019.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dye Road Map&lt;/a&gt; published by Jacquard, a well established maker of dyes, &lt;strong&gt;the best results on wool will be Acid, Basic&lt;/strong&gt; (chemical, not &amp;quot;simple&amp;quot;), &lt;strong&gt;Indigo, Cochineal&lt;/strong&gt;, &amp;quot;Super Fast Acid Dye for Wool,&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Dye-Na-Flow Fabric Paint,&amp;quot; with good results from &amp;quot;SolarFast&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Pinata Alcohol Ink,&amp;quot; and fair from &amp;quot;iDye Natural.&amp;quot; (You can see more information on the specific types of dyes at their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jacquardproducts.com/dyes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dye homepage&lt;/a&gt;.) Jacquard dyes are not quite as available as RIT, but can be found in art supply stores and similar retailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use Kool-Aid or Cake Icing Dye and Vinegar to dye wool; these dyes may or may not be as colorfast as a proper wool dye, but they are more readily available. There are many references on how to perform this process; the following is taken from a forum on backpacking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wool (all animal proteins) and nylon fibers are the only things that will dye with this process, but believe me it works great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weigh your garment when it's dry,, this will tell you how many kool aid packets you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soak your wool in warm water with two or three Tb vinegar. (none for red kook-aid) while you mix your dye bath. make sure the wool is completely soaked for at least 1/2 hour so all the little air bubbles between knits are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The acid in the kool aid, citric acid, is enough to make the FC&amp;amp;C dyes permanently bond to the proteins in the animal fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using Wilton [cake icing] dyes, use vinegar as your mordant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One packet of kool-aid will dye about 2 oz of wool, if your sweater is 8 ounces or more, I would go with more packets than you think you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing on a plain wool sock or some wool yarn is always helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your color where you want it, (I pre-mix my colors in quart mason jars, then dilute into a big non-reactive pot) add it to the dye pot, stir and turn on the heat.. Carefully wring out the sweater and loosen it so the fibers aren't all tight and mashed together. Sink it into the dye pot and let it heat slowly to 180° and maintain until the water in the pot is clear. This will take longer for blues and greens, but reds exhaust the fastest. Do not stir the sweater and DO NOT let it boil, it will shrink and felt, that's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the water is clear, turn off the heat and let stand to room temp, then rinse several times under cold water until all the flavoring smell is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: User Rebecca Audette on &lt;a href=&quot;https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/89024/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BackpackingLight&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RIT dye is a &amp;quot;Union&amp;quot; or universal dye, and as such, it dyes all objects poorly. It's readily available and easy to use, but the colors often don't take well, and often aren't colorfast or have odd results on different materials. You'll get the most vibrant results using a dye designed for wool, but RIT can be used. Again, test on another wool piece first to see your results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any type of dyeing, choosing the right type of dye and testing it before use are key. Particularly with wool, you want to ensure you're choosing a dye that will produce the color you want, and can do so without requiring so much heat that it will shrink or felt your item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T15:37:34.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6005" CreationDate="2019-03-26T20:35:11.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;for thousands or millions of years, earth-kind have woven fibers. by hand, with a hand-held tool, or a tool typically used in the shade of a tree. Not everyone has had a dedicated &quot;loom room&quot;. Videos are limitless online about weaving. Used Frame/tapestry, tabletop, folding floor looms are readily available for sale. A loom can be made with 4 boards, a box of nails, and fiber of some kind. Commercial yarn, handspun yarn either animal or vegetable, even forageable fiber. Again use a search engine.  I'm a working fiber artist. I am NOT LACKING IN TOOLS.  My collection dates from the 1700s to the 2000s. Stash is an addiction.  I am happy to clarify, just ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to be vague, but adhering to non-commercial reference rules of the forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T20:35:11.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5995" CreationDate="2019-03-26T20:43:16.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;a waterproof adhesive, an instant glue, an iron on sizer (double-sided tape, activated by heat). Use your favorite search engine. Here we are in a NON_BOT environment. I'd imagine there may be more, but those are my top 3.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally have a blind-hem attachment by Singer it fits all &quot;short shank&quot; machines from the 1890s to the 1960s. It is an inexpensive attachment for straight stitch machines.  Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T20:43:16.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2242" CreationDate="2019-03-26T20:48:43.593" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abrasive, a file, sandpaper. Those are the cleaning tools respectively. Rubber block for grinding wheels or sandpaper.  Sandpaper or other abrasive media for erasers.  Truly a Ying/Yang relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T20:48:43.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5995" CreationDate="2019-03-26T23:11:42.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an adventure with the hemming tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seam that goes the entire length of the pant leg is very thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat from my iron would not reach the tape to melt it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried sewing that area, but bent my needle because of the thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0479p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0479p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T23:11:42.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6116" CreationDate="2019-03-27T05:05:26.990" Score="3" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a couple of coasters using the decoupage technique, but they keep sticking in to one another. I used mod podge to seal the tissue and I'm assuming that is whats causing the stickiness. How do I seal or fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5901" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T17:00:29.703" Title="What do I use to seal or fix decoupage artwork?" Tags="|decoupage-glue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6032" CreationDate="2019-03-27T06:16:41.533" Score="1" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of brushes with dried paint and glue. I've tried to clean them up but they're still hard. What medium is best to restore my brushes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5901" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2019-03-27T08:01:43.640" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T07:10:16.087" Title="How do I clean dried brushes?" Tags="|restoration|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6029" CreationDate="2019-03-27T10:06:20.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can coat your coasters with a layer of clear resin. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/qQrRVUarzPc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good instructional video on YouTube&lt;/a&gt; on how to coat surfaces using clear resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T10:06:20.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6030" CreationDate="2019-03-27T13:20:16.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a &lt;strong&gt;Brush Cleaner and Restorer&lt;/strong&gt; formulated for this task. There are a few of these available, only in art supply stores; you'll want to check with the ones around you to see what you can purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in the United States, Winsor &amp;amp; Newton makes a widely available product I have used with great results; it's formulated for dried acrylic and oil paints, but I have also used it to dissolve away dried latex (house) paint, as well as years-long set dry varnishes. With this product, you'll let the brush soak up the solution, checking periodically to monitor the progress. In a low quality brush, it may end up damaging it by damaging any glues holding the bristles in place in the ferrule, but at the point you're using a restorer on a brush, it's typically ruined anyway, so there's no risk in trying. In my experience, I've only had one or two brushes lost this way out of dozens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this particular product is not available outside of the United States, but other companies do make similar products that you'll be able to find by asking your friendly local art supply shop. The employees there should be able to recommend a product to you with which they're familiar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, the best option is to avoid needing a restorer in the first place; take proper care of your brushes, cleaning them right away instead of letting paints dry in them. Avoid getting paint up into the ferrule, and dry them bristles down so paint and water don't soak down into the ferrule and cause damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T13:20:16.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1808" CreationDate="2019-03-27T20:59:29.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;plasti-dip will create exactly what you see in the picture you've added. This is permanent though. You can get it from Walmart for under $15 and it has all the colors in the picture you show so I'm pretty sure that is what they used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after that, other permanent solutions - the cheapest is sculpy clay that you just buy a little block for under $3 at any craft store - Michaels, Hobby Lobby, mold it to where you want then bake it for a about 15 mins so it hardens. Well air out your oven after as the fumes are toxic and you don't want to cook right after using it. I recently bought a clay bake oven from Hobby lobby for under $40 because I used the daily 40% off coupon from their website that I brought up on my phone while going through checkout. If you're going to be felting much that is an option and you can do so much more with it and clay later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I would also invest in thick suede gloves to protect your hand and fingers from those sharp needles. Don't even think of doing it without them. You have to stab quickly in felting and the little rubber finger protectors are not enough. Protect your entire hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6850" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T20:59:29.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6162" CreationDate="2019-03-28T05:26:18.297" Score="2" ViewCount="943" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to engrave or carve words into leather without the use of professional engraving or stamping tools?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make one similar to the one in the picture, but can not find the kit to do so anywhere in my local stores.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I read somewhere that it could be done by heated knife but I'm not sure. Any help, please?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Any link to a tutorial would be appreciated, too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kLSHJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kLSHJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6754" LastEditorUserId="6754" LastEditDate="2019-03-28T05:34:45.360" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T14:15:07.547" Title="DIY Leather engraving" Tags="|leather|carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6005" CreationDate="2019-03-28T13:05:04.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a very basic small loom out of a single piece of thick cardboard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is ideal for small weaving, around 10cm - 20cm size. You can use it to make small patches (or even small pouches/bags). I learned to do this at primary/elementary school, so it is very accessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives you a loom that you can use for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tapestry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tapestry&lt;/a&gt; weaving. I will explain the basics of how you would start weaving with such a loom, but details of how to weave are outside the scope of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a simple patch: Take a piece of cardboard a little bigger (1 cm in each dimension) than the size of the patch you want to make. Cut notches 0.5 cm long, 0.5 cm apart on two opposite edges. Now you have a loom!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XARm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XARm.png&quot; alt=&quot;A rectangle with vertical notches top and bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set up the loom, you need to add the &quot;warp&quot; threads, which form the basis of the fabric. I would recommend something like knitting yarn for this. Arrange the loom so that the notches are top and bottom. Take some yarn and wind it a couple of times around the top-left notch, ending with the long end of the thread at the back. (This is just to keep the thread secure while you weave. At the end you will remove it from the cardboard and you can weave in the end of this thread.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jesDo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jesDo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rectangle with vertical notches, with a thread tied around the top left&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring the thread from back to front through the top-left notch. Then take it down to the bottom left notch and thread it through to the back. Bring the yarn to the front through the second notch on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQNKU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQNKU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Demonstration of warping a cardboard loom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring it to the next notch at the top, round the back and so on... Keep going until you have filled all the notches. Wind a couple of times around the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iyVYq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iyVYq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can take your &quot;weft&quot; thread and weave it through under and over starting on the lower right and going through to the lower left. You can use something like a pencil to press the threads firmly down to the bottom. Then weave back from left to right, alternating the over and under threads. Press the thread firmly down again. Keep going until you have filled the card. Then you can remove it from the loom, weave in the ends, and you have a piece of woven fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/En3ks.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/En3ks.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2022" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T13:05:04.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6030" CreationDate="2019-03-29T01:05:46.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, I have used a low-fume paint stripper to smother the brushes in, and then wrap in clingwrap, and let soak for several hours. (I have not tried paint thinnners: this probably works better with oil paint than others. Correct me if I am wrong.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;These may be off topic? Happy to delete.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Restoring big brushes&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;For the really stubborn bits, I've used a heat gun on a low setting (but only on bristle brushes, not plastic filament, as I found it melts/deforms a plastic brush) will soften paint, especially plastic paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use a painter's comb or even a not-too-hard wire brush to remove paint. You may need to go through the process more than once.  I have also boiled brushes in water to soften the paint, and then scraped the paint out while soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning artists oil bushes&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I use mineral turps, and then pure soap all the way down to the ferrule (push the brush into your soapy palm with warm water). Lay on an old towel. Then to help the brush keep its shape, coat it lightly in petroleum jelly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using SARD wonder soap, but this leaves a residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-03-30T00:40:59.860" LastActivityDate="2019-03-30T00:40:59.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2019-03-29T03:14:03.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two main stages of underpainting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Underpainting (or toning) eliminates the harsh, intimidating white canvas and allows you to paint freely without worry about ‘filling in’ the white. Use a big brush to paint a wash of burnt sienna.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a quote from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thoughtco.com/steps-to-a-successful-painting-2578762&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seven Steps to a Successful Painting&lt;/a&gt; on the Thought Company website. Each step is illustrated and, I think, offers a foolproof approach. Underpainting is a crucial early task. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps you identify the major values (darks and lights.) By identifying these, it forces you really look at your subject, and see if the composition will work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As a beginner I had no idea how important values were until attending some well-run art classes. Wish I had known earlier! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have included a sample of a still life and value study from underpainting, at yesterday's oil class. The next stage is to add colour. I have probably made mine too detailed, but that's okay. I got excited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZllyC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZllyC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photograph of the reference still life&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sTpw9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sTpw9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the underpainting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mitchell Albala's website has an excellent discussion covering several ways to do underpainting (illustrated): &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.mitchalbala.com/what-color-is-your-underpainting-the-monochromatic-and-two-color-methods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What Color is Your Underpainting? The Monochromatic and Two-Color Methods&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T09:13:46.947" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T09:13:46.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6040" CreationDate="2019-03-30T02:00:31.700" Score="4" ViewCount="2586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting into drawing, and I've made a sketch that I would like to fill in with black, red, and white pens (or markers). Since pen is permanent, though, I'm concerned that I might accidentally go a bit into the white parts with the black pen, ruining my drawing. Are there any white pens opaque enough that they could cover up mistakes I might make with the black pen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6854" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T01:05:12.210" Title="Any White Pens/Markers To Write Over Black Pens?" Tags="|sketching|pens|markers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6039" CreationDate="2019-03-30T03:58:54.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try a correction pen, there are now quite a lot to choose from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This web page shows over a dozen kinds, and how opaque they are over black ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/blog/the-best-white-ink-pens/pt/340&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The best white ink pens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matching the paper colour and white pen might be tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-03-30T03:58:54.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6039" CreationDate="2019-03-30T06:48:17.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I often write white text on top of black, I've been looking for a good white pen myself. A correction pen doesn't do it for me, as the correction liquid doesn't stick very well. The above-mentioned list of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/blog/the-best-white-ink-pens/pt/340&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the best white ink pens&lt;/a&gt; seems like a good one. However, the pen I ended up using is not on that list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.edding.com/products/edding-780-paint-marker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Edding 780 paint marker&lt;/a&gt;&quot; fills (no pun intended) my needs. It's a bit tricky to use, though, as it's easy to get too much liquid on the paper. However, you'll get the hang of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of white on black, using the Edding 780:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIP1O.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIP1O.png&quot; alt=&quot;edding 780 on black&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6855" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T09:57:28.680" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T09:57:28.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-03-30T11:39:15.810" Score="2" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some large galvanized metal disks that I going to grind into an outdoor decoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grinding will destroy the zinc covering.  It'll be painted afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I weatherproof the metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T03:52:54.317" Title="Weatherproofing metal" Tags="|metal|metalworking|varnish|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6042" CreationDate="2019-03-30T12:05:38.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said that you will be painting the ground galvanized metal.  If you use outdoor &lt;strong&gt;weatherproof&lt;/strong&gt; paint, then you will be weatherproofing your material for the length of time indicated in the tin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2019-03-30T12:05:38.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6042" CreationDate="2019-03-31T10:17:50.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've been decorating some metal mailboxes which have been outdoors for 1.5 years and are still looking good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;the process&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;i started by removing old paint/lacquer that was about to fall off. i did this by mounting a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/metal-brush-drill/s?k=metal+brush+drill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wire wheel brush&lt;/a&gt; on my drill and brushing the mailbox.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;next, i cleaned the mailbox with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;white spirit&lt;/a&gt; followed by cleaning it in water and drying it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;i applied several layers of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.molotow.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;molotow&lt;/a&gt; spray paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;i used molotow actrylic pens for drawing illustrations on top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finally, i applied three layers of &lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?q=clear+spray+paint&amp;amp;t=ffab&amp;amp;iax=images&amp;amp;ia=images&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clear spray paint&lt;/a&gt; for outdoor use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1L9MO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1L9MO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yxYPI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yxYPI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6855" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T10:17:50.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6030" CreationDate="2019-04-01T14:14:31.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used paint thinner to wash and clean the brush first. And after a while, rinsed with kerosene. That worked and saved my brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6865" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2019-04-13T07:10:16.087" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T07:10:16.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6050" CreationDate="2019-04-01T17:17:11.763" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I meal prep, and I use bowls like this to carry my prepped lunches to work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88DyD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88DyD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Square plastic bowl&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From another angle, showing the lip below the lid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cs5d4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cs5d4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From another angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recycling mark on the bottom says they are polypropylene for the bowl and polyethylene for the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leave the empty bowls in the office dish-washer and then take the clean bowls home whenever the dishwasher's been run. Due to forgetfulness on my and my coworkers' parts, I have occasionally found myself trying to figure out how many of the stack of bowls on the break room side table belong to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rectify this problem, I have this idea for a design based on my initials that I'd like to work on the bowls I use to carry my lunches so I can identify the ones that I brought to the office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there a dishwasher-proof way to make a mark on polyethylene or polypropylene?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6866" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T14:47:57.763" Title="Dishwasher-proof way to personalize plastic lunch containers" Tags="|plastic|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6042" CreationDate="2019-04-01T17:42:21.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are grinding galvanized metal, for &quot;final finishing&quot; I quickly found 5-10 methods on YouTube and Instructables that give some relatively easy solutions.  &quot;How to galvanize metal&quot; was my search string. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been investigating electroplating steel. aka de-rustification. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Galvanizing is an interesting anti-rust technique. Most galvanizing is hot dipped, in a vat of molten zinc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But using a zinc anode, zinc oxide electrolyte, and a steel item = electroplating (OUTSIDE - allow H2 gas to escape &amp;amp; not explode) is quite easy. No super nasty chemicals needed either.  Happy re-surfing (researching) and investigating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T17:42:21.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6048" CreationDate="2019-04-01T20:28:06.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both types of plastic, polyethylene and polypropylene are &quot;slippery&quot; and do not take glue or other adhesive attachments well. By extension, paint products are likely to slip off in some manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be more permanent to create a &quot;damaging&quot; effect to the plastic in an area that is not structurally critical, a section that doesn't provide for sealing or for strength in handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the corners of the lids may qualify in this regard. You could use a soldering iron or wood marking iron to engrave your mark(s) on the surface of the plastic. If you used sufficient caution and did not puncture the surface, you could mark almost anywhere on the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flange around the rim of the bowl (redundant?) is another non-structural location. Even if you chose not to mark initials or names, a bump or divot or similar depression would provide identification unlikely to be duplicated by another owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T20:28:06.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6057" CreationDate="2019-04-02T00:07:10.187" Score="3" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is the right forum to ask this on, so please tell me where to put this if not!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make weights to lift at home, and I found online that using gallon milk jugs and filling them with sand or something similar is a good way to do it. However, I'm trying to make about 25 pound weights, which I'm not sure the sand would be heavy enough for. Am I wrong in this? What would be a good, easy-to-access (and not too expensive!) material that would reach at least 25 pounds or so in a milk jug sized container? What other way could I reach a weight of that size with easy to access materials, other than milk jugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6870" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T12:51:08.313" Title="Dense, easy-to-access material?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2019-04-02T00:34:22.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be useful, a website that allows you to convert volume to weight for over 1500 substances and materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate/volume-to-weight/substance/sand-coma-and-blank-dry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aqua-calc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T00:34:22.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2019-04-02T07:27:37.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sack filled with sand might be what you want.&#xA;As it would be hard to get more than 8 pounds from a gallon bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sack would also give other workout options.&#xA;A large truck or tractor tire could also be used but a sack would be most functional as it could be a seat when not used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6872" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T07:27:37.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6030" CreationDate="2019-04-02T07:29:59.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brushes where used with acrylics then a soak in methylated spirits could help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6872" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T07:29:59.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5547" CreationDate="2019-04-02T08:20:54.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could take the large blocks of concrete and cut it to shape with diamond tools, like like sculpting any other they of hard stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6872" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T08:20:54.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2019-04-02T12:51:08.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel weighs 8000&amp;nbsp;kg per cubic metre, or 8&amp;nbsp;kg per litre.  A US gallon* is 3.79&amp;amp;nbspl, so a gallon of steel weighs 30&amp;nbsp;kg or 66&amp;nbsp;lbs.  Unless you buy it in one piece you won't get perfect packing but you'd only need a 37% packing fraction to fill that gallon.  Identical ball bearings &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Random_close_pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;should get more like 60%&lt;/a&gt;, but ball bearings aren't cheap.  Old nuts and bolts would work if you can get them cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point though, your milk bottle wouldn't survive long - it isn't designed to take the weight - so you need a stronger container, or to fill it first with steel then with epoxy (including the handle) effectively using the bottle as a mould.  That much epoxy would add  another couple of kg (~4&amp;nbsp;lbs) and could get expensive (though there are cheap types ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vcalc.com/wiki/KurtHeckman/Sand+Density&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wet&lt;/em&gt; sand&lt;/a&gt; would actually only need 1.5 gallons to reach 25&amp;nbsp;lbs. Sand-filled epoxy would be similar to wet sand - you'd need to mix it well in another container, using just enough epoxy to fill the gaps in the sand.  This is strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* Apparently a common size for plastic milk bottles in the US&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T12:51:08.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6048" CreationDate="2019-04-02T14:47:57.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found metallic (plastic foil) stickers to last surprisingly well through a dishwasher (though I normally run mine on a 50&amp;deg;C programme).  My daughter has a few on her plastic, probably PE) water bottle and they have survived quite a few washes with only a little fading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to find a clear example online but they're easily and cheaply available in real shops, where they're easy to identify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even some marker pens last quite well, but it's not obvious which ones until you test them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T14:47:57.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1852" CreationDate="2019-04-02T21:32:01.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd also use a specialty undercoat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your DIY store or paint store should be able to supply an undercoat with extra grip designed to grip to difficult surfaces. I recently bought some. It's called Grip Lock Primer. It needs 3-4 days to cure completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use it for fibreglass, ceramics, laminates. I'm sure you can find similar products in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-04-09T07:09:47.387" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T07:09:47.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-02T23:18:36.143" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to repair or strengthen the divider in my wallet as shown here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It kinda close quarters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the damage is caused when I close the zipper and catch the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9dTW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9dTW.png&quot; alt=&quot;wallet&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/k1nt39dj02ioicz/Wallet.png?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Original image link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-05-07T20:37:46.440" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T20:37:46.440" Title="Repair divider in wallet" Tags="|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2019-04-03T00:33:49.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Epoxy is the best choice. Remember surface preperation is more important than the bonding agent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood, use good tac rag, but use 120 grit red garnet paper for a rough up, some wood fibers for the epoxy to grab. The wook should also be &quot;dry&quot; under 12% moisture contentant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal, scuff also, no less than 120 grit Silicon Carbide (black) sand paper. Then use a no byproducts cleaner. Acitone use with appropriate safety steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll the adheared products, probably from the wood side, to remove as many bubbles as possible.  You could use a vacuum chamber to remove all epoxy bubbles after mixing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This set of steps should give you the best adhearance between dis-simular items, as you describe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T00:33:49.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-03T03:44:34.177" Score="2" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build an electric kiln for firing pottery, so I need a really high temperature. I intend to use kanthanal wire for the heating element. The problem I am facing is the refractory material. Pottery is just a hobby which I want to explore, so my budget is &lt;em&gt;incredibly&lt;/em&gt; small. And refractory/fire bricks can be quite expensive in the quantity that I would need. Is there a way to make my own refractory cement that would be as resistant to heat as a fire brick. If so, should I shape the refractory into a brick and then mortar them together or should I make it one solid piece: is there anything gained from having individual bricks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6875" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T09:55:39.530" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T09:55:39.530" Title="Cheap Pottery Refractory Material" Tags="|ceramics|pottery|kiln|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-04-03T09:57:11.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2019-04-03T03:47:24.653" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Super glue is cheap, easy to find, and bonds together just about anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6875" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T03:47:24.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6042" CreationDate="2019-04-03T03:52:54.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of paint, it should form an able enough barrier. Fun fact, to prevent the rusting of large, steel, salty sea-faring boats, they connect large blocks of zinc to teh hull on the inside. The zinc &quot;protects&quot; the outer steel layer by basically transferring the corrosion to it (there's a lot more chemistry involved but that's basically what happens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6875" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T03:52:54.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6068" CreationDate="2019-04-03T11:20:41.590" Score="5" ViewCount="6254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm after a glue to stiffen some fabric into a specific shape. I have tried a couple but they do not stiffen the fabric enough as I'm after a fairly solid finish. It needs to be reasonably resistant to UV too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making a model of a paraglider and want to use the fabric for the wing. I want it to have a curved shape along both axes, I've found something which has the shape I want and am trying to place the fabric on top and then coat with the glue to fix the shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6876" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T15:12:08.470" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T20:54:54.643" Title="Which glue should I use for fabric-shaping?" Tags="|adhesives|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6005" CreationDate="2019-04-03T12:22:23.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are small portable looms in a couple of different styles. One that my knitting group really likes is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://schachtspindle.com/product/cricket-loom/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schacht Cricket Loom&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T32mz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T32mz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's what's called a rigid heddle loom - it weaves much like the big room-sized looms you're thinking of.  They have 2 sizes, a 10&quot; width and a 15&quot; width. Very easy to use &amp;amp; put away too. Sold on Amazon, Etsy, and most yarn shops have or can get them for you easily. You might find a used one on Ravelry, but they go fast, if you can find one. People tend to keep them :)  If you have a local yarn shop, try there first.. they will often have beginner loom classes available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-16T13:53:46.060" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T13:53:46.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6060" CreationDate="2019-04-03T14:13:29.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not be pretty but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sewed the damaged material and used Gorilla glue to attach some leather pieces to both sides. The leather should protect it from the zipper rubbing against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIkwZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIkwZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T14:13:29.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6065" CreationDate="2019-04-03T16:32:42.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have quite a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue&lt;/strong&gt; (a.k.a. 'school glue', 'wood glue', or 'carpenter’s glue'; a type of white glue that dries transparent. Furthermore, it's non-toxic, easy to apply, affordable, has water resistant variants (that deter mould and the like), fast-drying, and has a high holding strength. &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sawsview.com/pva-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dilute the glue using equal parts of glue and water and mix&#xA;  continuously to obtain a paste with an even consistency. Apply the&#xA;  glue with a paintbrush. Craft the fabric into the desired shape and&#xA;  leave to dry. Apply more coats, depending on how stiff you want your&#xA;  material to be. &#xA;  &lt;br&gt;Another way to stiffen the fabric is to immerse it into a bucket filled with diluted glue. The solution can be more or less concentrated, depending on the effects you want to obtain. Squeeze the fabric to remove the excess solution, shape it and allow to dry. &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ehow.com/info_12025850_ways-stiffen-fabric.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GAC 400&lt;/strong&gt; (from Golden Artist Colors; an acrylic polymer). A commercial product specifically aimed at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.justpaint.org/gac-400-fabric-and-paper-stiffener/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;giving permanent shape&lt;/a&gt; to paper and fabrics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stiffens natural fibers and fabrics and is useful for stiffening&#xA;  unprimed canvas or sculpting and shaping fabric. Fibers saturated with&#xA;  GAC 400 will dry to a hard, stiff film. &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medium-gels-pastes/special-purpose-mediums&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be heat-set, to increase its permanency and stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fabric stiffeners&lt;/strong&gt; for crafting purposes (like &lt;em&gt;Mod-Podge 'Stiffy'&lt;/em&gt; (great marketing there)). Apply with a brush onto the shaped fabric, or immerse the fabric and directly apply it to the mould. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmXGsLA4NxM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyPAQM7bzcI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for examples.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wallpaper paste&lt;/strong&gt; (methylcellulose). Again: apply with a brush onto the shaped fabric, or immerse the fabric and directly apply it to the mould.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liquid Starch&lt;/strong&gt; (corn or potato starch, or commercial products such as &lt;em&gt;Sta-Flo&lt;/em&gt;). Mix with water, and, again, apply with a brush onto the shaped fabric, or immerse the fabric and directly apply it to the mould. Apparently this is also used to give denim jeans heavier wear (fading/creasing). &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.heddels.com/2011/03/should-raw-denim-jeans-be-starched/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; on that process shows a pair of jeans standing up by themselves, so I guess this a good option. &lt;a href=&quot;https://craftingagreenworld.com/articles/diy-natural-fabric-stiffeners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some recipes for making the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skin glue&lt;/strong&gt;: another traditional, organic, gelatine-like glue, made from skin and bones of rabbits, hares, and other animals. It usually comes in small grains or powder, which can be found in artist shops. Mixing it with water and heating it up yields a very strong, slightly yellow drying glue. I use it regularly in my artistic work to stiffen fabric, and it's wonderful stuff (as long as it doesn't go bad). &lt;br&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.naturalpigments.com/rabbit-skin-glue.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; for more information on the preparation (and/or ask here if you have any more questions). Once more: you can soak the cloth in the glue solution, or apply it with a brush. It is, however, relatively sensitive to moist.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Epoxy resin&lt;/strong&gt;: more information following.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-04-04T11:23:32.350" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T11:23:32.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6071" CreationDate="2019-04-04T02:14:26.040" Score="3" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I bought a medium kiln on craigslist for $100.  It was old, and my friend and I wanted to upgrade it, so we bought some new heating elements, removed the entire controller-box, bought a temperature controller and a bunch of wiring.  We only kinda know what we're doing - I took a sculpture class back in college, but that's it, and my friend has never used a kiln.  We replaced the elements and connected them in parallel to ~220VAC.  (We had some problems with the temp controller and the connected relay, but that's a different issue, and less important.)  It worked for a few minutes; but then an element burnt out.  Fast forward a few months, and we tried again with just the other two elements.  The kiln lasted longer, maybe 30-60 min, but then another element burnt out.  That's the brief overview - here's a heap of gritty details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kiln: &lt;a href=&quot;https://evenheat-kiln.com/?p=product-showcase&amp;amp;i=22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Evenheat Classic Series Kiln - Model 1210&lt;/a&gt;, or a variation thereof, according to my records.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New elements: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1Pcs-3000W-AC220V-FeCrAl-Kilns-Furnaces-Casting-Heating-Element-Coil-Silver-Tone/32795722596.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3000W 220VAC FeCrAl Heating Coil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, here's the order of events, though I'm a little hazy on what happened several months ago.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To change the elements, we stretched them out to a bit longer than required (as we estimated), doubled the last few inches of each end back on itself, and twisted up that segment to be long and straight, so we could feed it through the kiln wall.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then we put them in the kiln where the old ones had been, feeding the ends through the front as mentioned, to be attached in parallel to power. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We put a steel cylinder containing aluminum scraps into the kiln - we're a little more interested in melting metal than firing clay, though we may do some of both. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When we turned on the kiln (i.e., connected the elements to 220VAC), we let it heat up to a bit above the target temperature, as measured by a k-type thermocouple near the center of the upper half of the kiln, I believe. Then turned off the kiln for a minute or two, then turned it back on, etc., to heat up the whole kiln without overheating parts of it or something.  We weren't sure it was ok to leave the thing on full power for too long.  We left the lid closed.  I think the kiln started steaming at some point; maybe the humidity/dampness evaporating out?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At some point, we looked into the kiln from a different angle, and noticed that while most of the elements were glowing a orange, one element had a ~3/4 inch segment that was glowing bright yellow.  A minute later that element burned out.  Our best theory is that there was a nick in the element, increasing resistance in that one spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few months later, we tried again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We didn't replace the burnt-out element, and just used the other two.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We on/off cycled the kiln on the way up the temperature scale, because we weren't sure about all the steam, and didn't want to blow up the kiln or something.  Also, note, after 30 min there were some acrid fumes.  Lid was still closed most of the time, though occasionally we'd open it to look.  We didn't think to do a more thorough inspection of the elements powered on, though, unfortunately.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over the course of 30-60 min, the kiln temperature reached a pretty solid 700-750°C.  (On/off the thermometer would fluctuate by about 100°C, up to a peak temp of maybe 850°C at some point?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We managed to melt the aluminum, which was exciting.  Then, however, as we were melting more (immediately put it in, then power cycled every few min for about 10 more min) another element burnt out.  We didn't see the spot before it burnt out, but I do have pictures of it after the fact:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94MWp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94MWp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burnt out element&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAUdW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAUdW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burnt out element&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(We think that's the burnt out spot.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We measured the voltage over the elements at between 220-240VAC, one specific measurement being 236VAC.  Amps per element was about 16A.  This yields 3776W per element, rather higher than the listed 3000W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my research, I'm pretty sure heating elements are supposed to last much longer than an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What could have caused the elements to burn and how can we avoid it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the voltage too high?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it purely a matter of nicks in the elements?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are they just oxidizing away?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Do we need to keep the lid closed?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Do we need to cycle the power more frequently?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Do we not need to worry about sudden temperature change of the kiln, after all?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is the power-cycling causing expansion/contraction damage?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is the reduction in length from the folding-over decreasing the resistance too much?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are these elements simply garbage?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Above all, how do we not burn out more elements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6879" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-04-04T13:33:49.423" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T15:19:08.930" Title="Kiln elements keep burning out" Tags="|metal|metalworking|ceramics|kiln|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6075" CreationDate="2019-04-04T10:39:59.967" Score="2" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know which is the best blending tool to work on soft pastels. Every time I try to blend the colour seems to lighten. I use normal brushes or my fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5901" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T01:13:32.380" Title="How can I blend soft pastels without removing too much colour?" Tags="|chalk-pastels|blending|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6069" CreationDate="2019-04-04T14:52:51.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the elements are connected directly to power, the only limitation is the inherent resistance of the elements. Ohm's law states that current is inversely proportional to resistance. The elements are going to be low resistance, which results in high current, and high heat, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, in your situation, the high current exceeds the capacity of the elements. I'm uncertain if you would be able to find elements capable of handling &quot;unlimited&quot; current, primarily because if you have such high current, you'll probably trip a breaker or burn something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the old technology stuff but today's controllers are digital and will pulse the current on and off to accomplish the desired temperature and heating profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a rather large power resistor, you could place it in series with your current source and drop the current to a non-element-burning level, but that's a bunch of experimentation and possible expensive resistor purchases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I re-read your comment. The elements should be in series, to increase the resistance over the full circuit. When in parallel, the resistance of the circuit is reduced, not increased. That's an important distinction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T14:52:51.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6069" CreationDate="2019-04-04T15:19:08.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem could be the Kanthal ( Fe, Cr, Al ) elements. Although they will tolerate a little higher temperature , they are &quot;delicate&quot; compared to the Nichrome type elements. Most consumer heat elements are Nichrome because it will tolerate more abuse ( eg. range elements). Kanthal becomes very brittle once it has been heated. Also it is weak when hot so must be properly supported. Also it is susceptible to deterioration when contaminated by silica and other agents. If Kanthal is the problem , the solution is easy but expensive - replace with a Nichrome ( Ni, Cr, Fe, Al) elements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T15:19:08.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6039" CreationDate="2019-04-05T01:05:12.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, for purposes such as you have listed, I use the uni-ball Signa white gel pen UM-153. With a gel pen you will have more control over the lines you are creating, and can layer the markings as needed. You might also enjoy using toned sketch paper in the future to play around with color values. Here is an example of a quick, light pressure pass-over I did over black marker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xR2jn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xR2jn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White Gel Pen Example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6880" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T01:05:12.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6070" CreationDate="2019-04-05T04:59:31.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why it is lightening: is the paper showing? Does the paper have enough 'tooth' or grip to begin with? How hard are you pressing into the paper and pastel? I've found gentle pressure with fingertip is enough. With softer (more expensive pastels) they tend to be the easiest to blend. If you have not tried a high-quality pastel like Schminke, then you are in for a huge treat: they have a creamy soft consistency, which make blending a real joy. Just buy one or two and see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sometimes used a piece of soft foam to blend soft pastel as well, but this tends to drag the pastel off, the reverse of what you want. Perhaps try a few experiments on a scrap piece of paper (the same paper as the actual work). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Several other things to consider&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried layering, using a fixative or hairspray? This allows you to keep working on an area, after the paper is 'full' of pastel. Once the pores or 'tooth' of the paper is filled, it will lose its gripping ability. This approach allows you to keep building layers.(Although it will slightly darken/flatten the luminous quality of the soft pastel.)&#xA;Sealing the surface is also useful for adding a final highlight when there is already as much pastel as the paper can hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For something different/fun, mix pastel with oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also used linseed oil to mix colours with on the paper itself: pastel is after all, mainly pigment. This eventually seems to dry out or spread itself through the paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-04-06T01:13:32.380" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T01:13:32.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-05T23:21:13.873" Score="1" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to put some very small grommets, marked size #000, into t-shirts. Since they're going to be resting directly against skin, they need to not split, since splitting creates sharp edges. Unfortunately, my efforts so far have (almost) all resulted in split grommets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a handheld grommet punch that had to be hit with a hammer. Then, after some initial success at the store, was convinced that I just had to buy the smoother-acting grommet spreader that had a big handle you pulled down to mash the grommet into place. Once I got it home, I was back to split grommets. (What was different in the store?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I be doing to stop splitting my grommets? Do I need to be buying grommets made from a different, more ductile material? (And if so, what material would that be?) Is there a different technique for installing the grommets that I'm somehow missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6884" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T12:15:22.080" Title="Very small grommets keep splitting" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6035" CreationDate="2019-04-06T01:17:03.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one in the picture appears to be laser engraved, so I assume that that is infeasible. You could get a similar result more easily if you tried to brand it, but that still requires your design to be shaped out of metal and then heated really hot. If you really want the professional look, I would suggest just buying a leather stamp online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6875" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T01:17:03.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2242" CreationDate="2019-04-06T04:47:34.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried washing one under a running tap of warm water and lots dishwashing liquid. (I kneaded the rubber while I washed it.) Mine was dark because I used it to pick up charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly enough it seemed to work with a small cube of rubber (5mm or 1/5&amp;quot;). One drawback is the consistency of the rubber became softer, so it was a little less grippy on the paper -- but I was still able to remove some lines of 6H pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the rubber now, it seems a shade darker.  So perhaps all I have done is to use the detergent to more evenly spread the black throughout the kneadable eraser. In any case it seemed to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might be worth trying for some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-03-12T18:30:27.323" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T18:30:27.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-06T06:19:04.903" Score="4" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of artists use this water brush that you can refill and I was wondering if it really is worth it. I am still a novice when it comes to watercolours and I use normal watercolour brushes. What are the pros of using the Aquash water brush pen? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6885" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T03:54:30.693" Title="Is the Pentel Aquash water brush pen worth it?" Tags="|watercolor|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6079" CreationDate="2019-04-07T03:54:30.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am also a novice with watercolor. The brush pens are pleasant to work with, especially if you have more control over your application with pens over traditional watercolor brushes. You can determine how much water should be used with pressure, and also use pressure to quickly clean pigment off the brush tip. I personally use the Ohuhu water brush pens, myself, but even then some traditional brushes will be needed. For example, I did a quick cactus with only one brush pen. This particular brush did not have a fine enough tip to properly do the needles as  I would have liked. So, as a beginner you will likely want to mix and match brush pens and traditional brushes. Brush pens can be fairly cheap, and the ones that come with an end cap are quite nice for traveling with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iw69c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iw69c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cactus Brush Pen Example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6880" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T03:54:30.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6086" CreationDate="2019-04-08T10:16:59.880" Score="3" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have started to resin-coat certain novelty soaps. I first coat in mod podge, then I give it 2 layers of epoxy glass resin. It is looking fabulous, but someone told me that soap has too much water in it to coat in resin. What will happen to it? Will it last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6891" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-06-20T14:19:36.903" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T14:19:36.903" Title="Will commercially produced soap coated in epoxy resin last?" Tags="|preservation|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-08T14:57:25.233" Score="6" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a light blue button shirt with a couple of ribbons that are attached via pins. The placement is very specific and I'd like to mark the exact position of the pins on the shirt. I thought about using a permanent marker (Sharpie), but am worried that the ink may run when washing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you guys recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6892" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T06:27:52.370" Title="Permanently mark pin placement for shirt" Tags="|sewing|fabric|clothing|pins|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-08T15:29:56.117" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Touching up the coloring on my American, nylon flag. What is the best way to do this? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6893" LastEditorUserId="6118" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T10:15:53.557" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T10:15:53.557" Title="Touching up the coloring on my American nylon flag" Tags="|painting|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-04-18T10:16:29.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6082" CreationDate="2019-04-08T15:43:19.817" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharpie might work, but will have some bleed on the fabric when applied that may cause the mark to spread farther than would be covered by the pins. Additionally, while you want something &quot;permanent&quot; right now, what happens if you lose the pins but still wish to wear the shirt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using a permanent marker, I would recommend getting a hand-sewing needle and a bit of contrasting thread (black and white can generally be picked up quite inexpensively). Thread your needle with a doubled length of thread, then, starting from the inside of the shirt, add a single small stitch where you wish to put the pin. Tie the end off, then add a few more stitches (in either an X or straight line pattern, your choice) and tie off again before trimming the ends. This will give you a visual indicator with no bleeding, that will stay as long as you want it to stay, but can still be removed if the pins are lost or the placement isn't quite right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T09:28:24.040" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T09:28:24.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6076" CreationDate="2019-04-08T23:05:33.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not my field, so I won't be  much help. But I notice no one has answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd take the spreader and the grommets back to the store, as well as samples of split grommets and the actual material. Get them to do a demo. Or as a plan B ask them who can give you more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pewter is a softish metal, so I would have thought it would stretch before splitting. I wonder if it is tough enough to do the job of cutting through your fabric on its way through? Perhaps try steel, copper or nylon. You might be able to buy a handful of each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also self-backing eyelets might be worth considering, these are one piece with 'teeth' to cut through the fabric, and when pushed through, then bend around to seal the other side of the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a page in the US showing several kinds of grommets and self-backing eyelets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://This%20is%20not%20field,%20so%20I%20won&amp;#39;t%20be%20%20much%20help.%20%20%20If%20it%20were%20me,%20I&amp;#39;d%20take%20the%20spreader%20and%20the%20grommets%20back%20to%20the%20store,%20as%20well%20as%20samples%20of%20split%20grommets%20and%20the%20actual%20material.%20Get%20them%20to%20do%20a%20demo,%20or%20as%20a%20plan%20B%20ask%20them%20who%20can%20give%20you%20more%20information.%20%20Pewter%20is%20soft,%20so%20I%20would%20have%20thought%20it%20would%20stretch%20before%20splitting.%20I%20wonder%20if%20it%20is%20tough%20enough%20to%20do%20the%20job%20of%20cutting%20through%20your%20fabric%20on%20its%20way%20through?%20Perhaps%20try%20steel,%20copper%20or%20nylon.%20You%20might%20be%20able%20to%20buy%20a%20handful%20of%20each.%20%20Also%20self-backing%20eyelets%20might%20be%20worth%20considering,%20these%20are%20one%20piece%20with%20&amp;#39;teeth&amp;#39;%20to%20cut%20through%20the%20fabric,%20and%20when%20pushed%20through,%20then%20bend%20around%20to%20seal%20the%20other%20side%20of%20the%20fabric.%20%20Here&amp;#39;s%20a%20page%20in%20the%20US%20showing%20several%20kinds%20of%20grommets%20and%20self-backing%20eyelets.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grommets and eyelets on the Goldstar site in the US&lt;/a&gt; (I'm not promoting them as I live in Australia, but it might be useful reference for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB I'd be happy to delete this post if it is felt to be unhelpful, (after seeing the answer above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T01:32:46.703" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T01:32:46.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6081" CreationDate="2019-04-09T06:40:25.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once epoxy resin is cured, it's extremely stable and resilient against mechanical and chemical damage. It's impossible to dissolve cured resin in water, so your soap is well protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding water to resin &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; it's cured is a problem, though, and probably the reason why the person told you it's impossible. As a rule of thumb, if you add other substances to the epoxy resin (like paint, ink or other water solutions), you cannot add more than 10% of the epoxi's volume. If you add too much other stuff, the epoxy will never cure completely and stay soft or bendable, tacky or even runny like honey forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T06:40:25.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-09T11:12:26.563" Score="2" ViewCount="1431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make false stone looking planters from polystyrene heads. I bought the stone spray paint to use, but reading the instructions it says it's for indoor use only! I want to put my heads outside, what other type of product can I use on them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6898" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-04-12T19:41:10.640" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T19:41:10.640" Title="Spray-painting polystyrene for outdoor use" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6087" CreationDate="2019-04-09T17:50:39.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, using regular spray paint on polystyrene will melt the material, damaging it significantly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, before anything else, I'd suggest either coating your polystyrene head, or using a polystyrene-safe spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To coat the polystyrene object, use gesso (or another acrylic primer), plaster, a polystyrene-safe primer spray paint, or even white glue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now you can safely apply the fake stone layer. &lt;strong&gt;You can opt for a spray paint that's suitable for outdoor use, or use your current spray paint, and coat it afterwards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the recommended amount of drying time, you can protect your creation with, for example, a clear acrylic coating spray.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T17:50:39.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6076" CreationDate="2019-04-09T21:22:32.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is nothing technically wrong with the grommets then there is probably not enough material in their grip when you are attaching them. Thus they over crimp and split. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try adding a washer shaped bit of cloth that matches the diameter of the ring of the grommet to add more bulk, or try not squeezing them as hard. Using a washer of extra fabric will help them last longer as there will be less stress on the t-shirt material at the grommet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T21:22:32.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6092" CreationDate="2019-04-10T00:21:58.633" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZI8og.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZI8og.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stuffed reindeer &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;What material is this stuffed toy I finished today made from? I want to know in case I want to duplicate it later and I’m not sure if I’ll be able to find the pattern again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve got 2 more patterns pretty much like it back in my sewing space, but that’s it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastEditorUserId="6118" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T00:28:46.817" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T11:50:00.093" Title="What material is this?" Tags="|material-selection|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6093" CreationDate="2019-04-10T00:40:27.053" Score="2" ViewCount="2293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that many metallic items that look silver-ish in color, attain that effect because of a thin surface coating. Whenever those items get scratched, a copper-colored metal is revealed to be the bulk of the material. What is this cheaper metal? Copper is quite expensive so I doubt that's what it is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7HGdJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7HGdJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4407" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T18:40:17.250" Title="What is the cheap (copper color) metal underneath items plated to look like silver?" Tags="|metal|jewelry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6090" CreationDate="2019-04-10T11:50:00.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Recycled Wool Felt&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJ3WX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJ3WX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.360felt.com/products/colored-wool-felt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.360felt.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T11:50:00.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6091" CreationDate="2019-04-10T13:06:09.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is indeed copper, but a cheap alloy instead of the chemically pure copper that's needed for high quality cables and circuit boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot say exactly of which different metals it consists, but it usually includes lots of copper (as the base), nickel, pewter, sometimes zink or lead and sometimes traces of other elements like phosphor, beryllium or silicon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The copper used for such alloys is usually low quality scrap metal from old copper water pipes or copper that was contaminated with other elements. Electric wiring for example contains mostly pure copper, but if you burn the insulation off instead of removing it mechanically, you contaminate the copper and it loses much of its value. The purification is too expensive, so it's used for cheap metal jewelry and other objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relative to other metals copper is still expensive, but the combination of price and material properties makes this copper alloy the best option for cheap metal jewelry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't rust (at least not as fast as cheap iron based alloys)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not toxic (although quite a lot of people are allergic to the nickle in it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not so soft that the finished product bends out of shape at the slightest provocation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not so hard that you need lots of heat and energy to shape it during the production&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most people prefer jewelry in a silvery color. Alternatives like actual silver or white gold are much more expensive. Other metals like steel or platinum have a muted, grey color and are harder to process. Aluminum, which has the right color, is much too soft and requires very much energy to smelter and process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T16:16:00.297" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T16:16:00.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6091" CreationDate="2019-04-11T01:30:20.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears to be copper, which is not that expensive when you consider the cost necessary to form something like steel into that shape ( steel is cheap but more costly to form). The other possibility is that it is copper plating under nickel and/or chrome plating . Traditional chrome plating ( on steel) uses a first layer of copper a second layer of nickel and a top layer of chrome. I may add there is no such thing as &quot;cheap&quot; copper . Copper has been recycled for thousands of years. All copper product today are likely to contain recycled material , cast products are highly likely to recycled materials. Having once worked in a recycle smelter , I can promise you the recycled ingots used by most or all foundries meet the same ASTM specs as virgin material. Electric wire is more likely to be virgin because it is not cost effective to reduce certain elements like tin down to the specification limits.However if you look up copper scrap prices , # 1 and #2 are most valuable as they are copper wire scrap with very low levels of alloys ( and of course are often made back into wire). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="3114" LastEditDate="2019-04-12T18:40:17.250" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T18:40:17.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="111" CreationDate="2019-04-12T16:27:24.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;ChiaoGoo Red Lace are my favorite needles, and they’re made of surgical steel, which should be safe for people allergic to nickel. ChiaoGoo’s &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chiaogoo.com/faqs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; seems to say that while some of their older bamboo needles have nickel-plated joins, all their current products are nickel-free (though there’s some ambiguity about some of their bamboo needles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6911" LastEditorUserId="6911" LastEditDate="2019-04-12T18:44:46.917" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T18:44:46.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-12T19:03:43.787" Score="4" ViewCount="1392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a tote bag to carry various swimwear items to the pool, similar to  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mythirtyone.com/us/en/product/4441/deluxe-utility-tote-bloomin-bouquet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bags from ThirtyOne&lt;/a&gt;. I want the bag to be able to hold itself up &amp;amp; open, but still be able to make it mostly flat for storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using some outdoor canvas-type fabric. To stiffen it, I'm thinking of using boning in the corners and around the rim. My main concern is that the boning could get creased if the bag is shoved around. Is there a better option for providing this support? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6913" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T00:46:49.263" Title="Boning for self-supporting tote bag" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="193" CreationDate="2019-04-12T22:10:44.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yarn bowls are great, but for portability, I carry my projects around in an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artbin.com/yarn-drum-knitting-and-crochet-tote-bag-gray-print-6804sa.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ArtBin Yarn Drum&lt;/a&gt;. The lid has slots through which the yarn can come out, while the bag keeps the ball of yarn in place, and the whole thing zips up for easy carrying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6911" LastActivityDate="2019-04-12T22:10:44.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5995" CreationDate="2019-04-13T03:47:29.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've &quot;cheaped out&quot; on occasion and just folded them in and up, sticking them into place with ordinary masking tape and ironing the pants at the fold afterwards. It's amazing how many washes the tape can go through before it needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T03:47:29.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6097" CreationDate="2019-04-13T11:50:49.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boning around the rim is a good idea to make the bag stiff enough to hold itself open, but boning in the corners would make it impossible to fold the bag up for storage. You can add boning only in the green lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g30k9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g30k9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heavy canvas is strong enough to hold the bag open, especially since the material is doubled in the corner seams. You actually don't need much strength to hold the bag upright because its own weight is negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the boning itself you should use plastic boning. Since the bag is supposed to carry potentially wet items into a potentially wet environment (the pool), you should avoid metal boning because it could rust in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to cut seperate strips of boning for each edge around the rim. After cutting the right length, clip or file the corners of the boning to avoid damage to the fabric. If you think the boning is not strong enough to make the bag as stable as you'd like, simply add another strip of boning to the same edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T11:50:49.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-15T06:49:35.200" Score="2" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a small laser machine to cut coffee stencils, like what you use to decorate your cappuccinos and lattes with chocolate powder. I want these to be professional-quality stencils, cut from 1.5 mm PETG thermo-plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what machines are used and any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6918" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T18:27:41.007" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T05:29:13.390" Title="Coffee stencil cutting machine" Tags="|tool-selection|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2019-04-15T07:07:58.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can choose to use either a laser metal cutter &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.triumphlaser.com/metal-non-metal-laser-cutter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;such as these&lt;/a&gt; or you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raptor-cnc.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CNC plasma or CNC laser cutter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to limit costs, your local makerspace may have one of these options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T07:07:58.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2019-04-15T09:44:13.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An option beyond using a laser would be to purchase a craft cutting machine such as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/machines/cameo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Silhouette Cameo&lt;/a&gt; or similar. It uses a very sharp cutter that is moved over the surface of the material, cutting through to create your stencils. It is quieter and less expensive than a laser cutter. Additionally, a laser machine creates smoke and odors which may be challenging to address.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Chris suggests, you may find a makerspace with such a device, although they are inexpensive enough to purchase. Laser machines are much more costly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rYmU9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rYmU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;silhouette cameo&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-04-15T09:44:13.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6108" CreationDate="2019-04-15T21:51:05.173" Score="4" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to bend some 1/4&quot; or 1/8&quot; diameter brass rod to make the perch seen in the photo below. Is there an easy way to do this? I tried in a vice and with a mallet but couldn't get nice round bends. I've also looked at a tool like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0000AX8HJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; but am not sure which would work for the size/shape I want. Any advice is welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UivDc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UivDc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6921" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T14:10:54.590" Title="How to Bend Metal Rod to Make a Perch" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6107" CreationDate="2019-04-16T01:31:45.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bend it around something like steel pipe ( a mandrel).Clamp one end of the rod and the pipe in a vice and pull or push the rod around ; you can use a hammer  It does require a sturdy vice. After the first bend rotate the pipe and rod into the vice jaw to make more bends such as 180 or 360 degrees. Once you practice it is easy; i have made about 25 copper &quot;S&quot; hooks with 270 degree bends on each end; using about 3/16 ' wire. OR, the tools should work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T01:31:45.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-16T03:10:51.577" Score="2" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a plastic miniature person (an archer) from a board game, but she was unfortunately bent either during packaging or during initial molding. She leans WAY over...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xw2Sp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xw2Sp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put her in a bowl of very hot water which made her pliable. I straightened her out and put a clamp on her to keep her in the right position while she cooled down. She seemed to stay upright, but after an hour or two she has migrated back down to her bent position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I bend her to be straight and keep her there permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6923" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T10:37:28.443" Title="Re-bending a bent plastic figure to stand up straight" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-04-16T10:51:45.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6109" CreationDate="2019-04-16T10:37:28.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to repeat the procedure, but bend it in the opposite direction, until it cools down (or even more, to be sure). While it will tend to come back, it might stop (close) to the vertical position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to repeat for a few times. Do not force it too much, as it can break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T10:37:28.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6107" CreationDate="2019-04-16T14:10:54.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That tool looks like it would do the job, and you may be able to construct something similar in your own workshop. If you do build your own, I'd simply advise to be mindful that it does have a flat surface to maintain a single plane for the curves to align on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to using tools or forms to bend the rod around, heating the metal with a torch will increase malleability, making it easier to shape. I'd recommend testing this with spare material if you do attempt this method, because heating and cooling the metal can impact the molecular structure, durability, fragility and coloration of the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6926" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T14:10:54.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6097" CreationDate="2019-04-17T00:46:49.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic boning sold by the roll is a huge nuisance to make lay flat, be warned.  If the boning option doesn't suit you, look in the embroidery section of your favorite craft store for something called &quot;plastic canvas&quot;.  It is sold in 8x11 inch sheets and it is used like needlepoint canvas for yarn crafts. It is a flat plastic mesh material.  It's easy to cut with household scissors.  I like to use it in the bottom of tote bags that I make so it will have a flat bottom.. and since it's plastic, I don't have to remove it for washing or worry about it getting wet, unlike cardboard.  You might consider using 1.5-2 inch wide strips around the upper edge of your bag (between the outer bag material and the lining to help stiffen the opening.  Hope it helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T00:46:49.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6083" CreationDate="2019-04-18T01:45:35.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps try fabric paint available at a serious art supply store. In Australia, I'd would by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newtownartsupplies.com.au/permaset-fabric-paints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;, as they set permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matching your colours will be difficult, so experiment on a scrap of paper, &#xA;fabric or even a paper plate first. (My experience with plastic paints is that they dry darker.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bakerross.com.au/giotto-fabric-pens-box-of-48?&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_JDWx8HY4QIVGR4rCh3SoghuEAQYASABEgIj-vD_BwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fabric markers&lt;/a&gt;, although heat setting the ink with an iron would need to be done carefully and on a low heat setting for nylon. Again, test your technique on a scrap of nylon first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T01:45:35.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6029" CreationDate="2019-04-19T08:17:51.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to clear epoxy resin, you have other alternatives depending on what material you are working your decoupage art on. &#xA;And often based on the shape of your object also. Like, Epoxy resin isn't a good option in case of curved surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For coasters made of wood/mdf/acrylic, you may want to use &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liquitex.com/row/products/professional/gessoes-mediums-varnishes/matte-varnish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Liquitex's Matte Varnish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to give it a non-shiny, matte finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On glass bottles and decoration objects, you may want to use &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.decoart.com/triple-thick-gloss-glaze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DecoArt's Triple Thick Gloss Glaze&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to give it a shiny glossy finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More suggestions would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water based: MINWAX's Polycrylic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oil based: MINWAX's Polyurethane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6845" LastEditorUserId="6845" LastEditDate="2019-04-19T17:00:29.703" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T17:00:29.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6118" CreationDate="2019-04-19T08:37:59.257" Score="2" ViewCount="9552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made MDF coasters and decorated them using epoxy resin with attractive colors and pearl powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took 25-30 hours to completely dry out. In the meantime, few dust particles settled on it and I lost its glow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to dry it out faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or better, how should I avoid this the next time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6845" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T00:14:04.390" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T00:14:04.390" Title="How to dry out epoxy resin faster than usual?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6117" CreationDate="2019-04-19T10:12:08.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To cure them more quickly you can either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use heat lamps or an electric heater over your resin pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;raise the temperature of the room they are in to say, 75 - 85&amp;deg;F / 24 - 30&amp;deg;C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you do either of these, you must maintain the heat constantly until fully cured.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be tempted to add more hardener as it can stop the resin curing and remain sticky indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are additives that promote curing (called accelerator) however they are typically yellow in colour so will add a slight yellow hue to the resin.  Also, the faster the resin cures, the greater the chance of it yellowing as a combination of the heat by-product of resin curing and heat applied to cure the resin faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are reduced accelerator resins around which are slower curing but cure clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent dust from settling on the resin while curing, you can cover them with a cloche or bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more info on what I have said, you can read what ArtResin say at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/44707073-how-to-make-resin-cure-faster&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/44707073-how-to-make-resin-cure-faster&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T10:12:08.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6117" CreationDate="2019-04-19T14:53:58.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you mixed the resin components in proper proportions and for long enough to achieve a homogeneous blend.  If the components are not mixed thoroughly, some of the resin will cure slowly or not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not including enough hardener  will definitely increase the curing time.  Check the instructions to see if the proportions are by weight or by volume.  50/50 by weight can be dramatically different than 50/50 by volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unrelated to your question but worth noting...  working with resin in warm environments creates additional challenges, specifically related to heat.  Almost all resins will crack and deform while curing if their heat rises above the limits of the material.  To avoid such issues, you need to apply the resin in thin layers and allow each to mostly cure before adding the next.  I started a river table resin pour on a cold night and was able to safely apply four layers, each 1/2 inch thick.  The next day, during a hot high noon, I added a fifth 1/2 inch layer and cracks appeared everywhere, penetrating down through the previous nights layers.  The project was ruined and now hangs on my shop wall as a reminder to watch resin temperatures and apply resin thinly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-04-19T14:53:58.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2019-04-21T16:42:05.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Notwithstanding that sometimes the proper way to do something can be lame, here are a couple of alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are, to start off somewhat obstinately, of course multiple &lt;strong&gt;types of greyscales&lt;/strong&gt;, and the one might be easier to use than another. The kind with perforations or excisions, for example, allow you to isolate the colour you're comparing to.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The problem, after all, is that our perception of colour is very relative: it is influenced by what we expect to see, by adjacent colours, by colour temperature. That's also why, when comparing colours to a greyscale, one might still need to squint, to lose the intensity of the colours.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These greyscales you can either make yourself, by painting a grey scale on a piece of cardboard, and perforating every value with a hole punch. You can use the exact same colours you are going to use in your painting, which makes it even more convenient. You can add pure colours adjacent to the greys to see what value they relate to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another option, that I have made use of when using photographic references, was taking &lt;strong&gt;a transparent sheet of plastic&lt;/strong&gt;, painting on it (near one of the edges) a provisional greyscale from pure black to pure white. An advantage is that you can take colour from your own palette, paint it directly on the sheet, and easily compare it to the reference colour. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the &lt;strong&gt;Munsell Book of Colour&lt;/strong&gt;, about which I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=930381&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: it comes in two different price categories, but both books seem to be worth the investment. The cheaper 'New Munsell Student Color Set' explains the Munsell colour system (based on the three pillars of hue, value, and chroma), and offers a lot of information on colours and colour theories in general. Both books contain colour chips (the 'Big Book' is merely a collection of nearly 1600 colour chips) that can be ordered by the user, and, meanwhile, acquaint him or her with getting a closer understanding of colours.&lt;sup&gt;✝&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;According to user &lt;em&gt;gunzorro&lt;/em&gt; on the linked forum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For me the experience is beyond the &quot;Munsell System&quot; to a rewiring of&#xA;  my brain for larger view of the color universe. I'm getting a tactile&#xA;  experience of being able to pull chips and arrange in strings or&#xA;  sequences much more quickly than with paint tests. Color matching&#xA;  against common objects and my past paint mix samples is greatly&#xA;  enhancing my color identifying skills, which improves my imaginative&#xA;  color skills. I'm now better able to visualize color relationships in&#xA;  the vast color space, and use the chips to confirm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will surely be beneficial for a greater understanding of the value of colours alone!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the same thread you can read about what some users did to increase their conception of grey values. Apparently, the books have assignments to teach the user about their mixing, temperature and relation to other colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtUOm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtUOm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Munsell Book of Color (image from Wikipedia)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The easiest, and, probably most fun way to teach yourself to 'see in colour values', is to restrict yourself to painting '&lt;em&gt;grisailles&lt;/em&gt;'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;: paintings executed in monochrome, usually a grey (but other relatively neutral colours are also used, because, while you mention greys in particular, I guess you are referring to colour value in general).    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its most common use is as an underpainting: the preparatory stage of a painting, usually followed by glazing, that allowed the artists to get a clear idea of mass, volume, light, and shadow within the composition, and to more easily make final changes (&lt;em&gt;pentimenti&lt;/em&gt;) to the design. This is usually (and more appropriately) referred to as &lt;em&gt;dead-colouring&lt;/em&gt; ('&lt;em&gt;doodverven&lt;/em&gt;'), as it lacked colour. This was often done in a warm brownish monochrome made from ochres, which dry quickly, allowing for easier drawing and quicker corrections.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCTXh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCTXh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Christ and the Woman Taken in Adultery - Pieter Bruegel the Elder - 1565&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique was sometimes used in its own right as a painted imitation of sculptural groups or reliefs in stone. The Dutch artist &lt;a href=&quot;https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jacob_de_Wit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jacob de Wit&lt;/a&gt; was well-known for these 'witjes':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQcZj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQcZj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Allegory of water with Neptune - Jacob de Wit - 18th century&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working &lt;em&gt;en grisaille&lt;/em&gt; is still done in some of the more classically oriented art academies as part of the curriculum, exactly for the purpose to get a clear conception of value in colour as a basis for a better understanding of the imitation of mass&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, but somewhat similar, is &lt;strong&gt;limiting your palette to three or five shades, either in the same, or - to make it a little harder - in different colours&lt;/strong&gt;. This will force you to see your reference as consisting of a limited amount of relatively large ranges of colour value. After having blocked in the large parts, you can always decide to continue by blending more values. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;✝ But be sure to check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1314108&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for the other side of this coin.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* This term has referred to the examples drawn by artists for printmakers to create the plate, as well, and these were normally executed in grey scale.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-04-21T18:08:15.363" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T18:08:15.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2019-04-22T01:10:14.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve become accustomed to the knife grip. It’s comfortable &amp;amp; familiar to me, I can’t even work doing the pencil grip. I’ve tried both ways. The knife grip (I believe) is much easier. Try both, and see what works for you &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZmKxC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6950" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T01:10:14.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5977" CreationDate="2019-04-22T10:43:18.587" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely don't attempt to repair it yourself - I can't tell for sure from the photo, but I think this is a hollow back binding. In this style of binding the covers and the spine were build directly on the book block, not glued together separately and &quot;hung&quot; into the covers as is done with modern hardcovers. That makes fixing a (partially) detached cover harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a modern hardcover, you would fix this approximately by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;detaching the end paper from the book block on the broken side,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lifting about an inch of the end paper from the coverboard,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pasting a strip of cloth or thicker japanese paper over the torn cover joint,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pasting a strip of thinner japanese paper over the torn end paper joint ,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reattaching the end paper to the cover board and the book block,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and optionally, painting the new material paper to match the surrounding if it's showing through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better hardbound books will have the book block attached to the covers not only by the end papers but also by paper,cloth, the ends of the tape/ropes the book block was bound on, etc. These can stay attached, since you can paste the patch over/around them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a hollow back... I'm not sure, to be honest. I never actually made one, although I know the approximate steps, and I definitely never tried to repair one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main catch is that since the spine is constructed directly on the block, you can't just detach the end paper to get access to the joint. My best guess is that you would still detach the end paper from the book block; then you might need to cut a slit between the book block and the spine hollow to insert the patch. In best case scenario you would want to avoid opening the hollow, but rather insert the patch between the layers of the back &quot;board&quot; (it's not actually a board, it's several layers of paper pasted together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to get this book repaired, &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; check the credentials of the professional. Check their portfolio if they have it, ask directly if they ever worked with this type of book. Hollow back binding is very common on older books, so you should find someone easily, but I assume it would be also easy to be a &quot;professional bookbinder with book repair experience&quot; without ever getting your hands on one. If you don't want to alienate the person, be the curious book owner and ask what kind of binding this is - the right kind of bookbinder will tell you a lot more than I could ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if this is the only damage the book has and you don't use the book often... maybe the safest thing would be to leave it be. It doesn't look like a big tear. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bookriot.com/2012/10/29/how-to-care-for-old-or-valuable-books/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Store it in dark, dry place, avoid non-archival materials and pests&lt;/a&gt;, and it will be alright for a few more decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6951" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T10:43:18.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-04-22T19:01:39.250" Score="4" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a commission that I'm starting soon, and I want to make sure I'm using the right paint. It's for a stone dolphin statue, and of course I want to make sure the paint won't fade, or crack, or peel, etc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can I just use regular acrylic, or should I use something different? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6953" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-04-24T13:39:59.097" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T13:39:59.097" Title="What paint should I use on a concrete statue?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6128" CreationDate="2019-04-23T18:05:24.323" Score="7" ViewCount="12536" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago I started crafting with epoxy resin. At first I just coated objects with clear resin, but recently I experimented with adding colors to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got nice results with powders (like glittery eye shadow) and a tiny bit of acrylic paint, but the result always loses the crystal clarity of the resin and gets somewhat cloudy or opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I bought transparent liquid glass paints in the hopes of mixing a more transparent but colorful resin. But to my surprise the color didn't mix with the resin at all and instead formed tiny flakes of (still liquid) color in the otherwise absolutely untinted resin. The effect is not bad, but not at all what I wanted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T8MCb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T8MCb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glass color was water soluble, but probably not acrylic paint. It didn't say exactly what was in there on the packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to find something that will &lt;strong&gt;tint the resin but keep it translucent&lt;/strong&gt;. If I go shopping in my craft store, &lt;strong&gt;how do I know which colors will mix with epoxy resin&lt;/strong&gt; without having to buy a bunch of material for experimentation and ending up not using most of them?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate general answers like &quot;acrylic paints mix well but oil paints don't&quot; instead of naming specific brands of paints that might not be available where I live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I got the best results with powders so far, I thought about buying high quality aquarelle paints (the solid blocks) and grinding them into powder, but I'm afraid the resin will get cloudy / opaque again and the money will be wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T17:21:57.163" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T04:34:53.887" Title="How to dye or tint epoxy resin to produce translucent colors?" Tags="|material-selection|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6123" CreationDate="2019-04-24T06:43:16.950" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sealing the concrete is the crucial step. I'd be using two coats of external plastic primer. You can buy primers with more than usual grip, but they cost twice as much (worth it). Then I would paint with a paving paint for extra durability. You might be able able to buy sample pots of enough paint for the whole job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some stage someone is going to have scrub it clean of dried bird droppings or even high-pressure wash it, so your paint will need to withstand this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If children are going to clamber over it, or people are touching it as they walk past, I'd consider a final clear coat of a slate/concrete sealer to prolong the life of the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also give the new owner you left over paint or at least the color formula so they can touch up if they need/want to, with details of the products you used for each coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T06:43:16.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2019-04-24T07:32:29.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Egg tempera is well-known to be quite stable under normal circumstances once it has dried.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;However, the &lt;em&gt;fresh&lt;/em&gt; tempera can easily go bad, especially in warmer conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prepare the tempera paint, dry pigment was mixed with water and egg&#xA;yolk. The problem of preserving the colours during the painting process&#xA;was handled with different methods. Egg tempera has a propensity to&#xA;putrefy rapidly, especially in warmer climates. Although egg yolk is a&#xA;perfect emulsion, when mixed with pigment and water, its natural&#xA;emulsifying property tends to break down.&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To counter this effect, different methods were used within different traditions&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Italians added &lt;strong&gt;the sap of fig trees&lt;/strong&gt; [&lt;em&gt;fig tree clippings or latex, see source below&lt;/em&gt;] into the egg yolk paint binder, as recommended by Cennini.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In Germany, &lt;strong&gt;flat beer&lt;/strong&gt; was sometimes added to preserve the paint.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Russian icon painters added &lt;strong&gt;kvass&lt;/strong&gt; [&amp;quot;a fermented beverage commonly made from rye bread&amp;quot; &lt;sup&gt;✝&lt;/sup&gt;] to the yolk. Kvass was added in an amount equal to the egg yolk and in place of adding water.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Sometimes &lt;strong&gt;a little vinegar&lt;/strong&gt; was added to the binder,&#xA;or &lt;strong&gt;gum tragacanth&lt;/strong&gt; was mixed with the egg yolk.&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that vinegar is still commonly used to slow down the deterioration process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted, however, that these retarders are not necessary for tempera to remain in good condition - works in pure tempera (i.e. only pigment and egg yolk) have survived in splendid condition, of which an alleged ultimate example would be the so-called Pozzolatico Panel by Jacopo del Casentino from the beginning of the fourteenth century:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOPik.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c94cg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(Click for full and larger version)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the wonderful state of the painting layer itself, it has a double-layered varnish in very good condition: one layer is egg white diluted in water, the second so-called &lt;em&gt;vernice grassa&lt;/em&gt;, which is mastic diluted in turpentine, and results over time in a typical cool grey film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cennino tells us that tempera was made by using egg yolk as a binder&#xA;for the pigments, and then diluting the mixture in water. At the end,&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;the painter had to add a coating of a different type to protect the&#xA;painting from dust and moisture. Although virgin tempera is already&#xA;relatively strong, it is still tender.&lt;/strong&gt; The painters of that time were&#xA;aware that &lt;em&gt;vernice grassa&lt;/em&gt; should not penetrate the tempera because&#xA;it would spoil the light refraction. Therefore, between the tempera&#xA;and the final covering of &lt;em&gt;vernice grassa&lt;/em&gt;, a thin covering of egg&#xA;white was added as soon as the painting was finished. &lt;sup&gt;‡&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The layer of egg white shields the underlying layer of tempera from moist, dust, and interactivity with other coatings, by making it impermeable.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reversely, the condition of the tempera is naturally also dependent on the qualities and chemical compound of the ground layer. While egg tempera stabilizes quickly, it can still be influenced by these during the drying process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cennini goes into a lot of detail concerning the work on panel or &lt;em&gt;ancona&lt;/em&gt;, specifically intended for gilding. Here are the steps in a simplified (but still maybe needlessly extensive) way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The panels &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;should be made of a wood which is known as whitewood or poplar, of good quality, or of linden, or willow&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. The wood has to be completely dry, and all defects (greasiness, knots, buds, nails) have to be dealt with thoroughly.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Then the panel needs to be glued before a layer of strips of linen and &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a size made of clippings of sheep parchments&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; is applied to it. This has to dry for two days.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The entire panel will now be covered meticulously with layers of a mix of the size and &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;gesso grosso, that is, plaster of Paris&lt;/em&gt; (originally: &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;coarse plaster, of Volterra&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;), &lt;em&gt;which has been purified and sifted like flour&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After drying, another set of layers is applied of a mix of this size and &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a gesso which is called&lt;/em&gt; gesso sottile; &lt;em&gt;and it is some of this same gesso, but it is purified for a whole month by being soaked in a bucket&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. This gesso is also used for making relief on the panels.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This again has to dry, the longer the better.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The final step in preparing the ground is to scrape it down until it &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;comes out like ivory&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preparatory sketches on this panel are made with charcoal, fixed with ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A somewhat different approach is that used in Russian iconography:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Icon panels were made from dried wood boards, typically linden or&#xA;alder wood, onto which a cross-hatch pattern was incised with a sharp&#xA;tool and a size made of animal skin or sturgeon fish was applied. Over&#xA;this a layer of linen cloth soaked in the size was laid down known as&#xA;&lt;em&gt;pavoloka&lt;/em&gt; (паволока).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The composition of the &lt;em&gt;levkas&lt;/em&gt; [&lt;em&gt;a recipe for the ground&lt;/em&gt;] was usually gypsum, chalk or a combination of the two minerals mixed with animal skin glue diluted with water. To this mixture was frequently added a small amount of honey. [...] After the ground was thoroughly dry, it was moistened with water and polished with a pumice stone. &lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An important conclusion we can draw from this, is that the surface the egg tempera will be applied to, should be thoroughly dry.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, having very little impact, the pigments themselves affect the quality of the paint, especially by influencing the drying process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although pigments do not have, in general, a large effect on&#xA;temper ageing, they can slightly accelerate the process of&#xA;degradation of proteins, and perturb their identification. It is known&#xA;that copper pigments interfere with the identification of tempers. &lt;sup&gt;❧&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sources:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;- Cennino Cennini - The Craftsman's Handbook - Dover Publications, New York, 1960. Transl. Daniel V. Thompson.   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.noteaccess.com/Texts/Cennini/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an online version that is one page number behind on my edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;‡ Del Serra, Alfio. “&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jstor.org/stable/881921?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Conversation on Painting Techniques&lt;/a&gt;.” The Burlington Magazine, vol. 127, no. 982, 1985, pp. 4–16. JSTOR (preview).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;❧ Helena Valente Vargas - &lt;a href=&quot;https://fenix.tecnico.ulisboa.pt/downloadFile/395137882251/Resumo_Alargado_Helena_Vargas.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Study of the aging of binders in proteinaceous media by high performance liquid chromatography&lt;/a&gt; (p. 6 offers a very interesting table showing discolourment of the pigments over time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♦ Antonella Casoli, Michela Berzioli, and Paolo Cremonesi - &lt;a href=&quot;https://repository.si.edu/bitstream/handle/10088/20487/09.Casoli.SCMC3.Mecklenburg.Web.pdf?sequence=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Chemistry of Egg Binding Medium and Its Interactions with Organic Solvents and Water&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.naturalpigments.com/artist-materials/tempera-painting-techniques-italian-russian/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Review of Medieval Italian and Russian Tempera Painting Technique&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;✝ &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kvass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kvass&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;° &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/parget&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/parget&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-03T16:40:56.317" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T16:40:56.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7518" CreationDate="2019-04-24T12:51:03.983" Score="6" ViewCount="2097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on casting an object in clear resin using a spherical silicone mold and did a test to see what I'd have to expect. It's came out quite well - better than I thought it would! - but around the circumference where the seal of the mold is, there are a number of little gouges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bywhb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bywhb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Resin Mold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of them are quite deep, 3-4mm. How can I fill them? I thought of using more resin but I'd have to apply it to a centimetre or two of the casting at a time which sounds incredibly tedious. Is there something else I can use in place of the resin, like a paste, which sets faster? I've read about using things like milliput but they aren't transparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, is it a good idea to just try to sand the whole sphere down a few millimetres to remove the gouges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7955" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T11:08:44.677" Title="How to fill gaps in spherical resin molding" Tags="|casting|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6124" CreationDate="2019-04-24T15:52:42.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need something that's soluble in the liquid epoxy, or possibly a liquid that's miscible with it.  Water isn't miscible with epoxy, and if you try too hard to mix it you'll produce cloudiness. I suspect that rules out acrylic paints as well.  Typical solvents don't dissolve epoxy; some may be miscible.  I'm not sure what the liquid phase is to investigate solubility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powders in general - unless you want a glitter or speckle effect - are unlikely to work however fine you grind them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specific dyes for epoxy (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Semme-Pigment-Coloring-Colorant-Decoration/dp/B07K1Z38QC/ref=asc_df_B07K1Z38QC/?tag=googshopuk-21&amp;amp;linkCode=df0&amp;amp;hvadid=314725209074&amp;amp;hvpos=1o3&amp;amp;hvnetw=g&amp;amp;hvrand=2820522288980547080&amp;amp;hvpone=&amp;amp;hvptwo=&amp;amp;hvqmt=&amp;amp;hvdev=c&amp;amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;amp;hvlocint=&amp;amp;hvlocphy=9045352&amp;amp;hvtargid=pla-697969976378&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon example&lt;/a&gt;), and &lt;a href=&quot;http://epoxycountertopdiy.com/how-to-color-epoxy-resin/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; also recommends alcohol inks - you can try &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dreamalittlebigger.com/post/homemade-alcohol-inks.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;making your own from old marker pens&lt;/a&gt; if you just want a test batch, though I'd use solvent-based markers to start with (such as Sharpies or cheap equivalents).  It would appear that alcohols mix with the solvents used in the epoxy components and in fact &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-thin-epoxy-resin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;can apparently be used to thin epoxy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have a little more trouble getting bubbles out than normal - a vacuum system is one way to help with this, but thinning should also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2019-04-24T15:58:29.850" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T15:58:29.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6082" CreationDate="2019-04-25T06:27:52.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a &lt;strong&gt;Ballpoint pen&lt;/strong&gt; (or a ball pen), like the one in the image below, can be the best option.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The ink won't bleed, and it would not wash off. The ink is precise, as the nib is pointed, and almost permanent (until specifically washed off by alcohol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kV2L3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kV2L3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6754" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T06:27:52.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2976" CreationDate="2019-04-29T08:04:00.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My approach would be to carefully drill holes into the glass very near one another, and then gradually break pieces away with long nosed pliers, or if you have a dremel with a tip for grinding glass remove the glass that way once the holes are dilled. I'm assuming you can get to the glass, perhaps not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A photo of the challenge would be a big help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I assuming correctly the foundry can take a lot of heat? If so, then would a blowtorch on the glass melt it? (obviously the foundry will become exceptionally hot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T08:04:00.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1918" CreationDate="2019-04-29T08:19:47.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Replace the whole broken section: could look weird&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;another &#xA;You're going to be lucky to get the same glass of the same colour. If you could, I would replace the whole section with the crack. You can do that by gently prising away at the lead (there's a plastic tool for this). The other option is to replace the whole section with another type of glass, but that would look odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Adding new lead to where the cracks are: another poor option&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the breaks shown by your arrow form a narrow triangle, it will look odd using two new pieces of lead on those breaks, as they will almost be adjoining each other. It won't look right and given the thickness of the lead, probably too hard to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Left field idea: stained glass paint&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;all &#xA;My suggestion is out of left field. I would buy a bottle of darker stained glass paint (purple? red? blue?) and paint over the entire work, giving the cracks a bit of extra coating. It might be enough to hide the defects and make them look like variations in the glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also give all the lead a black finish. Use stove blacking for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-04-29T08:19:47.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6135" CreationDate="2019-04-30T00:29:02.703" Score="2" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to find a way to paint/create the texture in this photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DrEHj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DrEHj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;beach at lorne CC Stefan Carey&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to oil pint, acrylics, soft pastels, moulding paste (impasto) and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking to use several layers. Each layer could use a different approach, for example, one layer acrylic, another pencil, one impasto, another pastel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also thinking of using different kinds of fabric or wire mesh as a 'wet stamp' -- perhaps in different tonal values and colours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T17:05:09.413" Title="I'd like to create the textures of sand and water in this photo I took at the beach" Tags="|drawing|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2019-04-30T17:05:09.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have three distinct layers there. From bottom to top, layered like a painting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opaque sand layer;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the shadows of the waves;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the waves themselves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If wanted, you can have an underpainting that shines through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, going back reversely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As for the layer of the waves, the most pleasing effect would be for it to be translucent, so I suggest glazing this last layer using oil paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I find that the shadows of the waves - the second layer - already resemble water colour, and, as this a perfectly fine (although outmoded) underground for an oil layer, it would be a practical choice, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you might be working with oils, the medium you're working on should be properly prepared, using gesso or skin glue (with chalk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The layer of sand can be achieved in a multitude of ways, but, if you want to have some texture, it could be nice to add real (very fine) sand to the preparation medium of your choice, to make it feel a bit more organic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something important to take into consideration (which you hinted at with your suggestion to use 'stamps'), is that the second and third layer are - naturally - quite similar.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you'd print the photograph to scale, you could use carbon paper to trace the wave lines. This will give a much better and convincing idea of the interference than when you approximate these by hand. It will also give you a good blueprint for the second wave layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-04-30T17:05:09.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6140" CreationDate="2019-05-01T01:40:18.853" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I previously had medals in a display case. They were originally affixed in a very rudimentary way (I just stuck push pins through the back, which was a thin cardboardish material). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm putting some green felt down in the display case and figured that I'd like to affix the medals in a better manner, but I'm not sure what this better manner would be. With the push pins, the medals would often slide off if the case was jostled in any way. I'd like to avoid that and affix them in a more stable manner. Any suggestions would be very appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mnsxg.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original push pin solution above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYWR5.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How the medals hung above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7968" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T14:21:17.723" Title="Looking to affix medals in a display case" Tags="|material-selection|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6139" CreationDate="2019-05-01T03:57:20.980" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a tutorial on youtube for getting a plastic finish with smooth on's 65D plastic and Wickes PVA glue.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDwQg6CX25A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDwQg6CX25A&lt;/a&gt; (5:40 roughly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can get the smooth on product but wickes does not sell/deliver to the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PVA glue is beneficial because it gets tacks why introduced to moisture which is helpful to give the smooth on plastic something to better adhear to when painting on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an alternative glue that could be used?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6051" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T08:35:55.747" Title="Alternative for wickes PVA glue in america" Tags="|adhesives|plastic|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6136" CreationDate="2019-05-01T07:29:47.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very simple solution is to use small nails. Your medals slide off the pins because their needles taper off at the end, creating a tiny slope for the medal to slide down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use nails instead (heads facing the front), the heads form a tiny barrier that keeps the medal in place. There's a surprisingly wide variety of nails available. For this purpose you should choose ones with a distinct, but not too broad head and - if available - black nails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have to add a thin wooden board to the backside of your showcase to give the nails enough material to dig into. If you want to paint the nails in the same color as the felt, do so &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; hammering them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-05-01T10:11:10.830" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T10:11:10.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6137" CreationDate="2019-05-01T08:35:55.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;PVA is one common type of wood glue (one global example is Gorilla wood glue), though the product in the video is the cheaper builder's PVA which can be mixed into plaster, or diluted and used as a primer or dust-reducing coating for concrete.  I'd expect it to be a little thinner than PVA wood glue, but the latter can be diluted with water.  PVA is sold as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lanco-Grip-Bond-Two-8-fl-oz-All-Purpose-White-Glue-WA502-7/202271467&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;white glue (Home Depot)&lt;/a&gt;, but go by the formulation not the colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy PVA primers as well, or even a lot of kids craft glue, but having watched a little of the video I suggest just using a PVA wood glue (ideally one sold for interior use only as you want a little tackiness).  The kids craft glue tend to be thinner as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVA glues are largely interchangeable (though in some cases some are stronger, and you don't want too much water in many woodwoodworking projects)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T08:35:55.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6136" CreationDate="2019-05-01T14:21:17.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more complicated solution would be to &quot;sew&quot; the medals on, using a clear plastic thread to loop through the hole. This could be done in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sew the medals to the felt before it is affixed to the case. This may be easier to adjust the positioning if you want to move medals around, but can make it harder to adjust once the felt is in the case. (However, you could also make the felt removable, mounting with Velcro or similar.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sew through both case backing and felt. This would take more force, but if you can put a pushpin through the backing, a needle should also go through. You get more flexibility in adding medals this way (no need to remove the felt to sew in a new medal).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T14:21:17.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-02T12:12:45.627" Score="0" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bottles of paint thats been dried up, is there a way to make this usable again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5901" LastActivityDate="2019-05-02T22:20:18.363" Title="How to salvage dry poster and acrylic paint?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-02T16:52:47.187" Score="5" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago, when I was a schoolboy, I used this paint brush with natural hair looking bristles. It is from an Indian brand named Camlin. But these types of brushes are no longer available in the market even from the same brand. Does any one know what is the hair used (pic attached) and which brand has this still in production.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FkTH7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7971" LastEditorUserId="7971" LastEditDate="2019-05-02T17:12:01.543" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T20:10:53.590" Title="Paint brush hair identification" Tags="|paint|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6142" CreationDate="2019-05-02T20:59:43.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it's &lt;strong&gt;badger hair&lt;/strong&gt; - the grey-white gradations are typical for these kinds of brushes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPVOBm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPVOBm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paint brush made of badger hair&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are quite common, and many manufacturers produce them, including &lt;em&gt;Da Vinci&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Isabey&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Royal &amp;amp; Langnickel&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Raphael&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unlike other hair, pure badger hair is thickest at the tips, giving&#xA;  these brushes a bushy appearance. They're excellent for glazing&#xA;  techniques, and popular with decorative and faux finish painters&#xA;  because of their blending ability.  &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/da-vinci-pure-badger-brushes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Badger brushes are [..] more springy than bristle, and they have a&#xA;  softer touch. They cost more but seem to last forever (I have some&#xA;  which are twelve years and counting). &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=846&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T20:10:53.590" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T20:10:53.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6141" CreationDate="2019-05-02T22:20:18.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the binder. If it's acrylic/latex, it can't really be reconstituted. For poster paint, there's a good chance the binder is gum arabic, in which case you can just add water, or grind it (on a slab with a glass muller, or failing that with a mortar and pestle) and then add water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to experiment, you can try grinding the dry latex paint. If you can get the particle size small enough, you could add the binder of your choice (acrylic again, gum arabic, heck even white glue could work) to make a lower-quality, but possibly still useful paint. But this is probably not worth the effort unless it was very expensive acrylic paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2019-05-02T22:20:18.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6165" CreationDate="2019-04-27T19:40:47.317" Score="2" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm refinishing an old Bausch and Lomb Stereo Microscope and I am trying to recreate the graphics and text on the body, but I am not sure of the method used during manufacture. I would like a method I can apply myself, but I am open to using outside services for the materials or printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k59RL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k59RL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWKaV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWKaV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially looked into water slide decals, but they look obviously tacked on, revealing a transparent background. I also looked into decals, but I am assuming it is unsuitable given the small size of the graphics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8005" OwnerDisplayName="ATL_DEV" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-05-05T16:03:40.950" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T20:45:26.217" Title="How can I recreate/restore small text and graphics on a painted surface?" Tags="|tool-selection|medium-selection|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-05T00:43:52.463" Score="6" ViewCount="1164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sports jacket from a team I used to play for. It's a very high quality jacket and I would like to continue wearing it, but the team name is written in large text across the upper-back of the jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to remove this writing but I don't know how. It appears to be some kind of stitching but it's quite heavily coupled with the jacket material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to remove this? See attached photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03aHP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/03aHP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhDfc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lhDfc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried cutting just a small section of one of the letters but I'm not sure if it's working properly. The stitching is so fine that there's still a thin white outline:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zNq1U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zNq1U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Thanks everyone for the feedback! This strategy is working. It will take a very long time, but I will get there:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YpBfn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YpBfn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7976" LastEditorUserId="7976" LastEditDate="2019-05-09T10:10:06.510" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T14:42:03.403" Title="Removing stitching from jacket" Tags="|material-selection|sewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6145" CreationDate="2019-05-05T14:57:49.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is blank decal media which you can print on with an ink jet printer.  It is sold online and at hobby shops which cater to plastic model builders.  Apply them to your clean plastic surface using a wet-on-wet technique.  Then clear coat the entire surface to blend in the decal edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are &lt;a href=&quot;https://dfarq.homeip.net/waterslide-decal-tricks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some more tips on using decals&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, practice repeatedly on a similar piece of plastic before trying this on your restoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T14:57:49.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6146" CreationDate="2019-05-05T15:50:39.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article lists several methods: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Embroidery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Embroidery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your pictures alone, I can’t tell quite what you mean about the outline. The first step I would try is to use clear packing tape or masking tape to try to lift the bits of thread out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6933" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T15:50:39.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6124" CreationDate="2019-05-06T19:05:33.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done this myself successfully with alcohol inks. I use the ones from Ranger; Piñata's inks are likely to work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid Sharpies as they tend to fade and change color over to time. I know this the hard way from having used them with polymer clay. :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7980" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T19:05:33.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2019-05-06T19:21:44.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I'm not a painter, I often need to see things in monochrome to check for contrast, as I consider the colorblind when working. (Those who are red/green colorblind comprise 10% of the population (!); there are far fewer blue/yellow sufferers.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to accomplish this, I take a photo of whatever it is I'm working on (or what I'm using as inspiration) and then desaturate it using whatever graphics software I have at hand (Photoshop! Gimp, etc). There's also an option to convert the image to monochrome; I try that, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this tip will help you with your painting. Food luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7980" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T19:21:44.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-06T19:56:11.897" Score="3" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to glue something to a rock and need a glue that won't turn cloudy over time. I've spoken to several glue manufacturers to no avail. I have also tried about 6 brands so far and none remain clear even if they were clear before drying. The closest I've gotten is with Elmer's. It dried clear but within 6 months became cloudy. Any suggestions? Thanks for thinking about this. I should also mention I need the glue to stay in a &quot;blob&quot; in certain areas so the paint on the underlying rock surface will show through the well-defined dollop of glue. As I said, I used Elmer's which turned cloudy but it didn't run, so that was half the battle. Sorry I didn't mention this in the first version of my question. I did get some answers one being heat-activated adhesive which I have not tried as yet. I have tried Gorilla Glue (dried cloudy) and Duco Cement (was very runny).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7981" LastEditorUserId="7981" LastEditDate="2019-05-10T12:47:04.477" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T23:06:00.333" Title="I need a glue that won't turn opaque or run" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-07T07:59:01.763" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to making large complex grafitti stencils (say, 2x2 meters or larger), how is it actually done? With small stencils with fine details I assume you can just get stiffer card to keep the small cut parts into place, but how do you keep a large stencil in place, so that all its cut details don't bend over and you don't get spray paint underneath them? Getting that size of a stiff cardboard would be expensive, heavy and difficult manage, so I doubt this is the best way to go about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7983" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T06:01:15.127" Title="How do you make a large grafitti stencil?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6152" CreationDate="2019-05-07T23:22:10.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never done one, but for a large stencil, I would probably use a program like the free Paint software which comes with windows.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by changing your image size to enormous proportions calculated by multiplying your desired stencil size in inches by the dot-per-inch resolution of your printer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the software, zoom out until you can see the whole image space and then draw some light colored lines both across the page from edge to edge and from top to bottom.  The resulting grid is going to help you align the printed pages with each other later in the process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now paste in your desired image and stretch it to fit the image size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...then choose the print menu option.  On the option screen, turn off the &quot;stretch to fit page&quot; checkbox, then click the print button.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The program is going to do is subdivide your &quot;too-big-for-a-page&quot; graphic into a matrix of pages, each containing a portion of your image.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut off the unprinted borders and then line up the light colored lines until every page is in its' place.  Then tape them all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next it is time to grab an exacto knife and remove the stencil parts where you want the paint to get through.  This is where the fine cut details are going get troublesome.  You might be able to glue (or tape) toothpicks (or thin wire) to the front of such details to strengthen them up a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your stencil is completed, turn it over and spray the back with a repositionable spray glue.  Make sure that all the details get enough glue on them to hold them onto the target surface without curling.  Once the glue is sticky, you can apply the stencil to the target surface, rub down all the edges and get to painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spray glue will make up for the flimsiness of your stencil material and as long as you apply your paint lightly, the printer paper should suffice to keep the shielded areas paint free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to trace your applied stencil with your xacto knife after the paint dies, just to assure clean edges and unwanted peeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-05-07T23:22:10.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2019-05-08T05:34:51.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid Nails Clear is a Selleys product made in Australia. We use liquid nails here as an all round building and construction glue, including masonry, metal, timber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their technical support people tell me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Liquid Nails Clear dries very clear with a clear bond line so you have a mess free bond line (you shouldn't be able to see it unless you look at it with an eagle eye.)”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their instructions say it resists water, and. &quot;24-48hrs strong bond. Cures in 14 days.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A test using two bricks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the lack of actual photos (even from Selley's) I have done my own test using two house bricks. As you can see the join uses much more glue than necessary but wanted to test and then show its transparency. I think it passed. This product gets tacky very quickly. It's a glue I would &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; wear latex or other gloves with. (I do not need more chemicals in my body.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo 1: Two bricks glued together using Selley’s Liquid Nails Clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vqksw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vqksw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two house bricks glued together with Selley’s Liquid Nails Clear.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo 2: One strong joint. &quot;24-48hrs strong bond. Cures in 14 days.&quot; (Bricks are not resting on ground by the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5YVlh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5YVlh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One strong joint!&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T23:06:00.333" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T23:06:00.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6146" CreationDate="2019-05-08T05:44:48.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d be using tweezers to remove the final remaining thread with a magnifying glass if needed. If the jacket's fabric is synthetic do this more carefully than if it is cotton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to as a last step, go over it with a green kitchen scourer. This will help remove fibres caught in the actual jacket fabric. Again if synthetic, go gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-05-18T06:24:09.620" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T06:24:09.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6151" CreationDate="2019-05-09T10:34:22.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a clear liquid epoxy resin, construction adhesive, 'Gorilla Glue', or 'Iron Grip' silicone adhesive&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liquid epoxy resins&lt;/strong&gt; dry clear and hard, bonding stones that may not&#xA;  fit snugly together. It may make some stones look wet in the area of&#xA;  application. Since this resin is a liquid, it runs a bit after you&#xA;  apply it, so it can pool beneath the stones if you use too much. Epoxy&#xA;  resin works well on stones, both large and small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6MfD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6MfD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Result of stone glued to stone using epoxy resin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGyGkL7pDdw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;: smaller scale than what the OP might have in mind, but still a valid example of an end result. Be sure to work safer than the author, though.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.resinobsession.com/forums/topic/clear-cloudy-resin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;, be sure to warm up the resin before application (though not with a heat gun or similar device), as this may help prevent it from turning cloudy.&#xA;In case of outdoor use, be sure to pick an epoxy that is UV stabilized.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/179481-cloudy-chalky-epoxy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Additionally&lt;/a&gt;, make sure you apply it in a dry environment and protect it from getting wet (also while curing), and don't overmix it. &lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update: you won't be able to get blobs with epoxy resin, unfortunately.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following glues are commonly or regularly used for glueing brick walls together, or glueing stones to a vertical surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Construction adhesive&lt;/strong&gt;, offered in a caulk-style tube, creates bonds&#xA;  strong enough to hold larger stones together, such as baseball-style&#xA;  stones or river rocks around the perimeter of a homemade garden pond.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you're using a clear variant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ehow.com/how_8382380_glue-stones-together.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;'&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gorillatough.com/product/clear-gorilla-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clear Gorilla Glue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;' (no affiliation): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The strength and versatility you have come to expect from Gorilla Glue&#xA;  is now available in an easy to use, crystal clear, non-foaming&#xA;  formula. Clear Gorilla Glue is incredibly strong and is ideal for&#xA;  indoor and outdoor applications and bonds virtually everything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSNIzxkD450&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for an example of mortar replacement. Mind that the regular unclear version is used.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;'&lt;strong&gt;Iron Grip Adhesive Silicone&lt;/strong&gt;' (no affiliation): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Made from 100% silicone, GE Iron Grip adhesive works fast on almost&#xA;  any porous and non-porous surface, including aluminum, steel, PVC,&#xA;  glass, concrete, fiberglass, polystyrene, plywood, drywall, ceramic,&#xA;  porcelain, stone, laminate, wood and MDF – indoors and out – all&#xA;  without any extra surface prep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear curing. &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/-PRsuAJuVqw?t=54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;'s a commercial video, showing the glue used on concrete blocks. As always, check the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/M90058-Iron-Silicone-Adhesive-Clear/product-reviews/B0763JS2P1/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_top?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;reviewerType=all_reviews&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reviews&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;* More useful information on the application of epoxies can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxresl.htm#blush&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-05-11T09:46:39.503" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T09:46:39.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6158" CreationDate="2019-05-10T03:18:13.653" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I have been trying to paint over a painting I've painted before but don't like. Unfortunately, every time I paint over it, it leaves a weird texture or it sort of soaks into the canvas and leaves weird marks and you can still see the painting underneath it. Is there any way I can prevent this from happening or is there a certain pant I should use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7995" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T09:52:16.377" Title="Is there paint without texture?" Tags="|painting|paint|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-05-23T08:33:24.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6157" CreationDate="2019-05-10T03:30:40.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try sandpaper or even an environmentally friendly (low fume) paint stripper. Other solvents might also be a worth a try, for example mineral turps for oil. Another option is to use a heat gun to soften it and then scrape it off with a flat bladed scraper used for plastering. I did this today successfully, just don’t touch the blade as it gets extremely hot after being near the heat gun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you can add a very thick layer higher than the depth of the original's texture, I think you'll have the same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the canvas is mounted on board, it is easier to scrape off. If it's a stretched canvass, you might need to be more careful in the scraping part -- you don't want to catch the (sharp-edged) scraper in the canvass and make a tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-05-11T09:52:16.377" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T09:52:16.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6157" CreationDate="2019-05-10T13:42:34.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just apply a thick layer of the canvas preparation, Gesso, over the existing paint.  That will handle the absorbency issues and somewhat reduce the texture issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T13:42:34.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2153" CreationDate="2019-05-10T17:05:14.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add onto John's answer - my art teacher taught us how to create a cheap and easy-to-make gridded frame to help us create still-life studies. The frame was simply a rectangular piece of stiff paper (e.g. cardstock) with a rectangular viewing window cut out in the middle, and thread stretched across at regular intervals, taped to the frame at the ends, as shown in the schematic below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQNkz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQNkz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Drawing Frame schematic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method can help you apply the skills you developed while working from secondary sources (photos) to real-life subjects, and can help you transition from photo sources to real subjects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T08:41:56.053" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T08:41:56.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2153" CreationDate="2019-05-11T01:16:59.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working from a photo is easy. Working from real life is testing how well you can see. It is not easy to get past what you think something should look like and what it actually looks like. As someone said above, you are working from 3D to 2D to get the illusion of 3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tonal values will make or break you, because they are trick the eye into seeing 3D. I don't think anything is more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips I have used successfully to help you see distinguish tones more easily:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try squinting so so hard you only see the highlights, flick your eyes across to your work and back, and see if you have the same balance of tones ('values')&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the app called 'See value' to turn a photo into three or four tones ('values')&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a piece of red glass or perspex to reduce the image to highlights and shadows and midtones. This works extremely well. People who have painted for a while pick up my red glass viewer and are quite surprised by what they see.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't establish these, you work will never have 3D effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes without saying that accurate draughtpersonship is important, but others have covered that above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The original still life (my zoomed-in photo):&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJni0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJni0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;original still life&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The original still life seen through the 'See Value' app, reduced to four values:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTy5H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTy5H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;original still photo seen through &amp;#39;See Value&amp;#39; app.(iOS):&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My not so impressive still life from the class (oil)(I've just noticed have added too much highlight in the background.:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BsU27.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BsU27.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My not so impressive still life from the class (oil)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My image through red glass, would have been better for this explanation if I had taken this of the real still life:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6Jmk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6Jmk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My image through red glass, would have been better for this explanation if I had taken this of the real still life&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My image using the 'See Value' app, reduced to four values:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iauj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9iauj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My image using the &amp;#39;See Value&amp;#39; app, reduced to four values&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-05-11T04:40:05.850" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T04:40:05.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6035" CreationDate="2019-05-14T14:15:07.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5mqv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image from [Wikimedia Commons](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Drehmesser_und_Punziereisen_-_Swivel_Knife.jpg)[1]&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally engraving like this would be done with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swivel_knife&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;swivel knife&lt;/a&gt; - these will generally cost a few pounds or dollars, so are much more affordable than a laser engraver. They do take a bit of skill to use, so I would suggest practising on some offcuts first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find tutorials on swivel knife usage all over the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2423" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T14:15:07.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6152" CreationDate="2019-05-14T20:31:58.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;acetate&lt;/strong&gt; or another form of plastic. It is available in sheets or rolls for larger work. Acetate is used as frisket, ie. masks of various sizes, in airbrushing: it is clear (or sometimes translucent) so easy to trace over designs, cuts easily and thicker gauges are quite durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T20:31:58.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6145" CreationDate="2019-05-14T20:45:26.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;strong&gt;dry transfer lettering&lt;/strong&gt; like Chartpak, or Letraset. Basically it is sheets of lettering (the full alphabet with multiples of common letters, plus numbers and symbols) that you can apply via rubbing the plastic sheet on one side, depositing the letter on the surface below the other. They come in a many fonts so you should be able to find one that matches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transfer lettering was pretty common before the digital age and is still used in places like art galleries to put titles on the walls next to an art work. It is an easy way to get professional custom lettering on objects, though it takes some practice to keep things lined up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, for a much more complex but professional solution, you could make a screen print of the whole design. Probably over the top in terms of expense but then you could match the type exactly. Process would be to capture the design to computer, clean up and reproduce with digital tools like illustrator or photoshop, print on masking, then use that to generate the screen.  Unless you have experience with doing this you would probably want to farm this out to a screen printer familiar with printing on objects other than tee shirts or paper, at least the last part of the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T20:45:26.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-15T04:33:30.757" Score="1" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to embed a rare earth magnet inside some aluminum. Think of it like an aluminum rod that has a thin layer of Al at one end, and underneath is the rare earth magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Al melts at 660C. At what temp does neodymium melt at? Is there a magnetic material that has a higher melting point that I can embed in the Al?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8007" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T15:41:03.160" Title="Embedding a neodymium magnet inside a forged/melted aluminum enclosure" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6166" CreationDate="2019-05-15T07:15:00.337" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The melting temperature of a magnet is irrelevant because it loses it's magnetation long before melting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.supermagnete.de/eng/data_table.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; and you'll see that the maximum working temperature of neodymium magnets is approx. 230°C for the &lt;strong&gt;most&lt;/strong&gt; heat resistant magnets. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.supermagnete.de/eng/faq/What-temperatures-can-magnets-sustain&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; explains why the magnets get permanently demagnetized by heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to embed a magnet into aluminum and keep it intact is to prepare a cavity in the aluminum and insert the magnet later (when the metal cooled down to working temperature). If you want to coat the magnet, either use &lt;a href=&quot;https://sciencing.com/galvanize-aluminum-8664634.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;galvanization&lt;/a&gt; or a different material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T16:07:15.437" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T16:07:15.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2019-05-16T10:43:55.120" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw top and bottom of the ruler to create parallel lines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate the ruler and repeat using the original lines to create a parallelogram.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw the diagonals of the the parallelogram, thus creating a right angle at the centre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue drawing parallel lines with same width using the ruler and adding the diagonals. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A square will present itself.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4cUf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4cUf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8012" LastEditorUserId="8012" LastEditDate="2019-05-16T10:51:11.597" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T10:51:11.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2215" CreationDate="2019-05-17T03:18:12.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of options that would easily cut the gift cards. The first would be aviation snips or tin snips. Those are available at major hardware stores like Ace, Home Depot and Lowes. The other option would be industrial shears. They look like scissors, but the separation between the two blades is different than for fabric or paper. They are also available at major hardware stores. Both options would also be available from Harbor Freight online and in stores in the US. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T03:18:12.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6152" CreationDate="2019-05-17T06:01:15.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also corrugated plastic that could be stiffened by pushing wire through multiple pieces. It's the same plastic used to make political signs. In fact, post election time is a great time to collect used signs, so if you volunteer to collect them for a campaign, it could be a free source of material. Then tape them on both sides at the seems, and that should provide additional stiffness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T06:01:15.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="111" CreationDate="2019-05-17T06:12:08.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other option that you can do if you have a set that you love is use clear nail polish to seal the metal. While you use the nail polish, use nitrile gloves as a barrier to avoid touching the nickel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T06:12:08.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6166" CreationDate="2019-05-17T15:41:03.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neodymium magnets are magnetized post forming and plating, or so claims &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=how-neodymium-magnets-are-made&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; magnet manufacturer.  If the magnet is permanently demagnetized, you could try to remagnetize it with a coil and high-current capacitor bank.  There may be some interference from current induced in the aluminum, which may be addressable by using a longer current pulse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I would try heating the magnet in question to the temperature where aluminum melts, perhaps by pressing a ball of aluminum foil around the magnet and heating it in a cast iron pan.  The foil will monitor the temperature, and touching/moving the magnet during the process will show you the demagnetization properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are casting the aluminum around the magnet.  If the aluminum is thin enough, it may be that the temperature of the magnet never reaches the critical temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Aluminum had no grain structure (like wood), it may be best to cut the rod, create a cavity, polish the ends, glue it all together, and then turn and polish the rod on a lathe to remove any discontinuity from the cut.  Carefully cut, polished, glued, and finished, the break in the aluminum rod could be nearly invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8016" LastActivityDate="2019-05-17T15:41:03.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-18T03:45:26.630" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a card box, for holding Magic cards, a while ago, and I lined it with felt. While that does look good all the plastic sleeves I use get caught on the material so it is difficult to put them away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flocking seems like a good idea as well but I am imagining loose bits getting into the cards and it bothers me. Yes, I have never actually flocked anything before, but even if it all adheres to the paint I find it hard to believe that it will never fleck off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I choose to line a card box with? It has to be something that will allow the sleeved cards to move freely and stay in its place. Being decorative is secondary, if it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-05-21T13:22:54.870" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T13:22:54.870" Title="What can I line a collectible card box with that is not felt or flocking?" Tags="|material-selection|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2370" CreationDate="2019-05-18T06:28:38.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a quality fill, used by hiking jacket manufacturers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a RAB jacket with Primaloft: best jacket I have ever owned. It insulates when wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy it off the roll. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ripstopbytheroll.com/products/primaloft-gold-3-oz-sq-yd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can buy it off the roll from this and other stores.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T06:28:38.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6176" CreationDate="2019-05-18T12:13:34.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leave the wood bare.  Sand it smooth then finish it and finally add a thin coat of wax to make the card sleeves move more freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T12:13:34.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6176" CreationDate="2019-05-19T12:16:12.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could take inspiration from old suitcases: these used either fabric (woven linen or cotton), or paper. (I actually suspect that they used bookbinding paper/cloth, more on that later.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasonably sturdy paper would be easiest to handle - patterned wrapping paper from a craft store, maybe, or even a piece of wallpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fabric can be tricky (stretching, glue seeping), but a smooth, woven upholstery fabric is a reasonable option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get your hands on book cloth, that's definitely a great choice. It's fabric lined with paper, sold in sheets or rolls. Takes glue well, doesn't stretch or wrinkle, easy to cut in straight lines. The downside is that it can be expensive or hard to find, depending on your location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6951" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T12:16:12.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-21T01:10:01.317" Score="3" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used the steam feature with my iron, some white material came out right before the steam did. What is that material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-05-09T15:39:17.923" LastActivityDate="2023-05-13T12:41:08.543" Title="What is the white material which comes out of steam holes?" Tags="|material-identification|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6180" CreationDate="2019-05-21T12:55:33.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a hard water area and always get limescale from my iron.  You can buy demineralised ironing water, but I tend to use the condensed water from my dehumidifier or melted frost from the very top of the freezer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T12:55:33.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6188" CreationDate="2019-05-22T03:36:46.013" Score="6" ViewCount="10973" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose there is a hot glue gun that support 12mm hot glue stick. Of course we cannot insert a bigger than 12mm hot glue stick, but can we insert a smaller one, let's say, a 7.5mm hot glue stick into it? Will there be any negative effects, like it will damage the hot glue gun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T14:35:06.013" Title="Can I use a smaller diameter hot glue stick on a bigger diameter hot glue gun?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6184" CreationDate="2019-05-22T03:57:17.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smaller glue sticks won't damage the glue gun but the gun will not be able to grip the stick in order for it to push the glue through the heating element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to use a smaller stick, if practically possible, you would need to push the glue through with your second hand whilst guiding the glue gun where you want it to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T03:57:17.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6193" CreationDate="2019-05-22T05:28:42.870" Score="4" ViewCount="4691" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to my online research glycerin is often used for snow globes. However, some mention that baby oil can also be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one is preferable, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T00:12:02.587" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T00:12:02.587" Title="Baby oil or glycerin for snow globe?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6184" CreationDate="2019-05-22T08:55:21.543" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Updated:&lt;/em&gt; I've tried it. I don't recommend it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I needed my big glue gun this afternoon and had some small sticks lying around so I gave it a go. Melted glue came out where the stick goes in, then hardened. It was a job getting it out - several minutes of poking around with knives, wire cutters and screwdrivers, and narrowly avoiding getting burnt. I got more glue out of the wrong end than the right end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViZO4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; I had previously used black glue; that's what you can see just above the &quot;80 Watts&quot; label. The thin stuff I was testing with is clear. As I took the picture the black stuck itself to both the clear and the feed mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will (I previously said &quot;may&quot;) find that melted glue comes out where you push the stick in, so you will need a plan for cleaning up before it solidifies, or have a pusher handy (such as wooden dowel - a glue stick of the diameter the gun is used for didn't help).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one possibility of damage or more likely scorched glue: some big-stick glue guns (like mine) have two temperature settings. The hotter &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be too much for small sticks (which I've only ever bought/seen as cool-melt).  So be sure to use the right settings, especially as you may have glue hanging around in there if it's not feeding very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd always &lt;em&gt;buy&lt;/em&gt; the right size, but would use only use up thin sticks in a bigger gun if I was desperate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2019-05-26T21:04:17.347" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T21:04:17.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-22T23:20:59.470" Score="5" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this question is on-topic -- I'm not a knitter myself, and won't be attempting to knit anything you suggest -- I'm actually trying to write a story.  I want to show one character realising that another one knows her stuff when it comes to knitting, so ideally it would be something that's not obvious to someone without some expertise.  It would be good to use a jargon word or two, if that fits -- while avoiding writing anything that sounds ridiculous to people who know the subject well, of course (the way any treatment of &quot;hacking&quot; in early films and TV series does to programmers...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will look something like the following, where phrases in brackets show areas probably in need of improvement (but feel free to make other suggestions):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Foo-stitch]?  Her eyes shot straight to the [shoulder seams], looking for the telltale [bunching], but there was nothing but row upon row of perfectly even [colourful synonym for stitches].  Row upon row upon row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Well?  Is it any good?&quot; Dan said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;She swallowed, and put it back down.  &quot;Yes,&quot; she said quietly.  &quot;It's good.  It's very good.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case anyone's interested, what happens is that a glamorous new housemate arrives, and the main character finds to her surprise and dismay that she is actually very good at knitting -- something the main character had thought of as being &quot;her thing&quot;.  The crisis sharpens further after that, but it's eventually resolved :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8031" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T12:47:10.623" Title="Looking for a difficult knitting style or technique, and how to tell whether it's been done well" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6189" CreationDate="2019-05-23T06:35:09.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our Wiki answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;background information&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trust me when I say realistically there's not alot of difference between knitting a 4&quot; by 4&quot; square and a metre by a meter cot blanket. Size of project is no indication of skill. Typically a good knitter progresses from plain items to fancy. Shawls are definite &lt;em&gt;&quot;I've made it as a knitter&quot;&lt;/em&gt; items, &amp;amp; socks &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be too. To put it another way, due to shawls using a number of techniques you wouldn't expect a beginner to attempt or be able to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advanced techniques include:&#xA; lace - one very carefully, literally, knits something that resembles lace &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cables, &quot;Aran&quot; is the jargon name&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;colour work -this includes &quot;fair isle&quot; which is a very particular type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;, &quot;entrellac&quot;, (which I've always wanted to do) it looks like someone wove narrow knitted strips together &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;jogless stripes, ideally ones stripes don't start/finish with an offset. If you achieve this, your stripes line up perfectly they are said to be jogless&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good knitter has even stitches that are not too loose, not too tight They can find and fix there own mistakes, and use many different &quot;cast on &amp;amp; cast off&quot; techniques. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If&lt;/em&gt; you want to keep the looking at the shoulder of the Jersey/cardigan your sentence could read &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Kitchener]Her eyes shot straight to the &#xA;  shoulder seams, looking for the tell tale &#xA;  pucker, but there was nothing but a row of&#xA;  perfectly even [pick any expletive] stitches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Short rows? Her eyes shot straight to the &#xA;  neckline, looking for the telltale holes &#xA;  caused by the wraps, but there was &#xA;  nothing but row upon row of perfectly &#xA;  even, perfectly slanting curved knitwork. &#xA;  Row upon row upon row. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fair isle? Her eyes shot straight to the &#xA;  colourwork, looking for the telltale &#xA;  puckering of tight floats, but there was &#xA;  nothing but row upon row of perfectly &#xA;  even tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Little Arrowhead stitch&lt;/em&gt;  is a difficult technique &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;She looked at the Little Arrowhead panels, not a stitch or hole was out of place&quot;&#xA;  &quot;Well, Is it any good?&quot; Dan said&#xA;  [Mia] conceded that &quot;not only is it good, it's amazing&quot; her insides churning as she felt &lt;em&gt;her thing&lt;/em&gt; ripped away by [Naomi]'s clearly superior skill. (Lol)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Oh don't you just love steeking&quot; gushed Naomi, clearly pleased to talk with someone who shared her passion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Yes&quot; Mia agreed matching Naomi's tone, unwilling to admit she had no idea what [private derogatory nickname] was on about &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The thrill as you cut through your stitches; watching them unravel&quot; continued Naomi.&#xA; Mia suddenly realised her new acquaintance had jumped the line between genius and insanity, and was merrily skipping away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Steeking scares/horrifies knitters of pretty much any skill level)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastEditorUserId="3094" LastEditDate="2019-05-23T23:20:37.903" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T23:20:37.903" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6194" CreationDate="2019-05-23T17:32:45.410" Score="1" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried on these rings and I thought they were really beautiful. I was wondering how I could reproduce one - I want to do a silver course, so I would like to do one that includes this technique if it's not super sophisticated. It's kind of like a pea pod, with the beads 'trapped' in the silver. They have a very natural look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CxbtJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CxbtJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;pod rings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8033" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-05-24T15:56:07.980" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T18:02:42.220" Title="Advice on how to make a pea pod style ring" Tags="|jewelry|metalworking|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6195" CreationDate="2019-05-23T18:21:21.430" Score="6" ViewCount="59976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing some acrylic painting and watched some Bob Ross and he wets his canvas with &amp;quot;liquid white&amp;quot; and then paints on it while it's wet. Is this just acrylic white paint or is it gesso? I have tubes of white paint but it is so thick, it definitely is not liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8034" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-18T17:55:49.363" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T21:00:13.020" Title="What is &quot;liquid white&quot; that Bob Ross uses?" Tags="|painting|paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6187" CreationDate="2019-05-24T01:32:57.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glycerin has a density of about 1.2gm per cm3, while baby oil has density of 0.8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The less dense baby oil offers less resistance and I imagine will give quicker falling flakes of snow. How much difference you actually notice is the real test. I’d be trying both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be no difference at all. If that’s the case then go with the cheaper liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://edge.rit.edu/edge/P13051/public/Research%20Notes/Density%20of%20Aqueous%20Glycerol%20Solutions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF hart listing glycerol densities at various dilutions. 100% glycerol is the first entry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can’t see an authoritative figure for baby oil but the answer is given by several online contributors who offer the same number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T01:32:57.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6191" CreationDate="2019-05-24T06:16:55.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic steps should be easy. The real manufacturing work - I never tried :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the silver. Ideally it is already a ribbon of the desired width.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do not have a ribbon, then it should be a thick wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) Transform the wire into a ribbon. You can use a (small) hammer, or some other specialty device.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) Hopefully, you will not need to melt the silver to make it a ribbon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bend the silver ribbon longitudinally, as if you want to make a long tube (similar to a syringe needle.) Do not close the tube!!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the pebbles / beans / whatever in their final position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the tube at the extremities, and around the beans, to keep the beans in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decide if the ring has to be closed (O-shaped around the finger, or if you want a spiral - similar to some bracelets).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bend the tube around a round &quot;stick&quot;, similar in diameter with the target finger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the tube longitudinally (probably at the same time with step 9).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Weld&quot; the end of the ring, if you want to have it O-shaped. I have no idea how to weld easily. Alternatively, you can use some glue. Or stick one end of the tube into the other end (similar with using the extension tubes of a vacuum cleaner). Use the hammer to force the end together, closing the ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you have the patience to go through all this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: you may want to try the same by using some cheap material, instead of silver. The first which comes to my mind is metal cans - from food (thicker), or from beverages (thinner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note: you may want to use some glue when adding the beans, to minimize the chances of losing them if the ring goes through a bad time. You may even use the glue around the &quot;pod&quot;. Or use some resin instead of glue, for the same purpose. It is better if it is elastic, so it will not crack in case of bad handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2019-05-24T09:24:20.653" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T09:24:20.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6192" CreationDate="2019-05-24T16:20:29.323" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a proprietary product from the Bob Ross company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's 3 such basecoats that the company makes: Liquid White, Liquid Black, Liquid clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bobross.com/product-p/750006207.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official description&lt;/a&gt; reads: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Liquid White is one of three Bob Ross Liquid Basecoats essential to the Bob Ross Wet-on-Wet Technique®.  These basecoats (Liquid White/Black/Clear) allow us to actually blend and mix colors right on the canvas rather than working ourselves to death on the palette.  The Liquid White/Black/Clear can also be used to thin other colors for application over thicker paints.  The idea that a thin paint will stick to a thick paint is the basis for this entire technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob Ross's mentor, Bill Alexander, used a similar wet-on-wet technique using &quot;magic &#xA;white&quot; as a base, or sometimes called &quot;fluid white&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liveabout.com/making-your-own-fluid-white-2578975&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;It seems entirely possible to make your own&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All you need to do is dilute titanium white with linseed oil. Mix these together until you get a creamy consistency. Some artists choose to mix equal parts of linseed oil and Turpenoid (or turpentine) to create this homemade medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, linseed oil and titanium white (paint). I would presume that the quality of the titanium white paint you use will affect the quality of the fluid white you make. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since oil paint itself is generally made from linseed oil, pigment, and a binder/emulsifier to get the oil and pigment to &quot;stick&quot;, it's likely feasible to make liquid white using pure pigment (titanium dioxide), linseed oil and something like white beeswax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T16:20:29.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6206" CreationDate="2019-05-24T17:24:25.057" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember reading about a very limited palette of colors that apprentice painters would use in the 16th century ishly.  Apparently, it was made of readily available, cheap pigments, which is why an apprentice would use it.  However, lots of color was possible by intelligent mixing.  I can't think of its name and now any googling turns up nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8041" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T10:39:58.347" Title="What is the name of the palette that apprentice painters would use?" Tags="|paint|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-06-01T14:43:26.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6191" CreationDate="2019-05-24T18:02:42.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're planning to take a jewelrymaking/silversmithing course, your instructor should be able to demonstrate or outline the process of creating a similar ring for you in the course. As a quick rundown of steps you can expect to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a flat silver stock; you may need to cut it from silver sheet yourself. Due to the opening, standard ring stock won't work for a project like this one. Your instructor can help you choose a sheet stock that will have enough thickness to work as a ring without easily deforming during wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select your beads and a length of silver wire that will fit down the center of them. You'll want to stick with a smaller diameter bead to avoid a ring that's too large to wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the size you wish your ring to be (likely based on your own hand, but possibly based on another); you'll be using a ring mandrel to shape the band. Because of the width, you'll likely need a stepped mandrel; a standard tapered mandrel will give you a slightly conical shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solder your wide flat ring shape shut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread your beads onto the silver wire and solder the ends in place at the existing joining point. Alternately, solder one end there, add the beads, then solder the other end, so you aren't worrying about the beads through the whole process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a flat jeweler's pliers (or a standard pliers wrapped in tape) to start pinching the flat silver into the peapod shape. Pinch it tighter at the back of the ring, and loosely around the rings at the front. You can also place the ring back onto the mandrel at this point to hammer down the back into a smooth surface. Be careful--you don't want to hit the beads with the hammer, or you'll likely damage or break them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optionally, solder the seam along the back (again, careful to not damage the beads!) for a smoother edge, if necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These steps may not be exact (it's been some time since I made a ring, and I've never done one like this), but should at least give you some sense of the steps your instructor may point you toward in your course. Without basic jewelrysmithing skills, I wouldn't recommend attempting to produce the ring yourself, but in a course it would be a good project to tackle after learning the basics of ring making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T18:02:42.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6192" CreationDate="2019-05-26T16:01:05.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using acrylics and not oils you could make something similar by thinning the base white with some gloss or semi-gloss medium and adding retarder. You can adjust the liquidity with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The retarder would be key since the idea is to keep the ground wet while painting to be able to do the special Bob Ross techniques. It will probably be needed to be mixed in with all the paints. But I think Bob's method really calls for using oils. You will have a much harder time with acrylics since they dry so much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-05-26T16:01:05.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6201" CreationDate="2019-05-27T01:47:44.510" Score="2" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my kids' friends accidentally knocked down a bottle of liquid glue on a container filled with glitter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is it possible to separate the glitter from the glue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="3262" LastEditDate="2019-06-03T06:20:17.903" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T06:20:17.903" Title="How to remove glitters from glue" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6202" CreationDate="2019-05-27T02:39:21.553" Score="5" ViewCount="9046" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a detective pikachu mold tray, some hot glue sticks and a small cooking pan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I melt the hot glue sticks in the small cooking pan and use it as a resin, to be pour into the detective pikachu mold tray?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it cause any damages to the cooking pan, or the mold tray?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T22:16:54.477" Title="Can I use hot glue as resin by melting them in a pan" Tags="|mold-making|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6199" CreationDate="2019-05-27T05:49:35.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the glue, there might be solvent available. Dilute the glue a lot (the one containing the glitter), use a sieve to separate the glitter from the diluted glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat until the glitter is clean enough. If you are lucky, the solvent of the glue will evaporate and you will be able to salvage the glue also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier method: throw the mess to the garbage and buy new glue and new glitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@&lt;strong&gt;rebusB&lt;/strong&gt; posted a very useful comment (thank you):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unless it is water soluble glue like Elmer's or actual gold in the glitter, the labor, toxicity of solvents, and likelihood of it being a huge messy waste of time makes letting the gluey glitter go a better call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OR just use the glue glitter as is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T06:06:04.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6200" CreationDate="2019-05-27T08:15:41.767" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It won't work.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can melt hot glue in a pan, but it tends to turn yellow and eventually brown if it gets too hot. whether the mold survives the pouring depends on the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real problem is that hot glue shrinks quite a lot while cooling down. The mold surface is cooler than the hot glue, so it sets at the outside first, while the center stays liquid for longer. As the center cools down and shrinks, it pulls all surface areas towards the center, warbing the object and possibly damaging the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this experience with a very small object: a papercut of a treasure chest, no more than 2 x 1 x 1 cm. I wanted to add weight to the object and filled the whole thing with hot glue. Once it was cool, the side walls were notably pulled in and there was a big (relatively speaking) hole at the top of the hot glue, where the top surface was pulled towards the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T08:15:41.767" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6200" CreationDate="2019-05-27T12:21:51.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work is to mix as little hot glue as possible with as much as possible of something with a lower coefficient of thermal expansion. Sand for example. This will also make it stronger. Hot glue isn't generally a decorative finish but if you're using one that is you might want to melt your glue, coat the inside of the mould, then add your filler. Certainly this would be effective in the case mentioned in @Elmy's answer (adding weight). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melting in the oven might be better than on a stove as you can control the temperature (including testing a small batch). Some hot glues would actually melt in a pot immersed in boiling water but most need a higher temperature than that. 120&amp;deg;C would be a good place to start. I suggest using a dedicated container such as a clean food tin (or even a glass jar in the oven) as normal hot glue isn't intended for food use, and isn't easy to get rid of completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-05-27T12:21:51.023" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-05-29T01:55:08.233" Score="2" ViewCount="2086" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure, if possible, but from my understanding, we often buy resin and hardener from shops, and then mix them before pouring into mold tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I was wondering if we can use common household ingredients (such as soda carbonate, white glue, the list is non exhaustive but are items that is commonly found in a house) to create non-toxic or less toxic resin, to be used in mold tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is it possible to use common household ingredients to create DIY resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T22:54:37.333" Title="Is it possible to use common household ingredients to create resin?" Tags="|mold-making|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6196" CreationDate="2019-05-29T08:37:04.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you remember if it was referring to a specific technique (such as oil painting) or pigments in general? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/palette4b.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velázquez palette&lt;/a&gt;*. This is a limited palette consisting of a blue, an ochre and a yellow pigment (with optional black) - for example ultramarine blue, burnt sienna and yellow sienna. With these pigments it's possible to mix a large number of hues (browns, greens, yellows, blues), enough for example to paint naturally looking landscapes. The lack of bright reds might be a limitation for some subjects, but I'd say you could made do if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether these pigments were sold in sets, but at least both siennas should be really cheap, as it's basically a fancy clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other named palette I associate with apprentices would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grisaille&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grisaille&lt;/a&gt;, which is a grey/sepia monochrome that was used for value studies and underpainting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The linked page is sort of broken; Handprint still uses frames so it's not possible to link to the page properly. Here's the whole &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/paletfs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;palette page with sidebar&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6951" LastEditorUserId="6951" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T10:39:58.347" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T10:39:58.347" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6205" CreationDate="2019-05-29T09:50:52.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, resin is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In polymer chemistry and materials science, resin is a solid or highly&#xA;  viscous substance of plant or synthetic origin that is typically&#xA;  convertible into polymers. Resins are usually mixtures of organic&#xA;  compounds. This article focuses on naturally-occurring resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article references plants which secrete resin for protection. The synthetic aspect of resin covers epoxy and polyurethane resins, more commonly used for casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is likely that you would be unable to create sufficient quantities of plant based resins for casting in molds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a more generic answer, one could use gelatin to cast items, but the physical properties may be insufficient for your purposes. Gelatin is not known for durability nor for physical strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T09:50:52.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6205" CreationDate="2019-05-29T10:16:35.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you need to obtain, and also depending on quantity, you might want to think of other materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: some of the ideas below require you to have at least one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;special knowledge;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;special skill;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;special tools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some kind of cement;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;silicone (colored, transparent...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plastic which can be thermally recycled;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some kind of glue;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T10:16:35.330" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6211" CreationDate="2019-05-29T13:52:15.850" Score="4" ViewCount="2615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only just recently getting into colour theory, and so far I have found this to be the most shocking and confusing part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8049" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-06-01T14:49:46.437" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T14:49:46.437" Title="Why do complementary colours desaturate each other?" Tags="|color|color-theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6209" CreationDate="2019-05-29T17:52:15.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to get some terms defined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.techopedia.com/definition/1968/color-saturation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saturation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color saturation refers to the intensity of color. When color is fully saturated, the color is considered in purest (truest) version. &lt;em&gt;Techopedia.com&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bing.com/search?q=define%3A%20complementary%20color&amp;amp;adlt=strict&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Complementary color&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a color that combined with a given color makes white or black &lt;em&gt;OED&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In painting, here's why a color's complementary color reduces intensity (desaturate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, each of the six pairs of Complementary Colors &lt;strong&gt;always contain one cool and one warm Hue&lt;/strong&gt;. This means they are the colors with the &lt;strong&gt;most contrast&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each pair of Complementary Colors always contain some combination of &lt;strong&gt;all three Primary Colors&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, in the pair Yellow and Purple, Yellow is one Primary and Purple is a mixture of the other two Primary colors Red and Blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you mix &lt;strong&gt;all three Primary Paint Colors together you get a dark neutral&lt;/strong&gt;. So because Complementary Colors always contain all three Primary colors,  they quickly neutralize each other when mixed together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://color-wheel-artist.com/complementary-colors-defined/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From Color-Wheel-Artist.com&lt;/a&gt; There are some very good illustrations at the link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: When you mix complementary colors you are blending all three primary colors which reduces intensity/saturation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6946" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T17:52:15.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6209" CreationDate="2019-05-29T22:32:22.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are familiar with the concepts of complementary contrast and saturation in broad lines (if not only through the answer of &lt;em&gt;David D&lt;/em&gt;), the following anecdote of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johann_Wolfgang_von_Goethe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goethe&lt;/a&gt;'s 'discovery' of complementary contrast is very informative in regard to your question. His eyes were once caught by a dark-haired girl in a pub, and, when she moved away, and Goethe was left staring at a white wall, he saw that same girl with dark skin and light hair - the negative of the real image. &lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bhfdn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bhfdn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Goethe, watercolour from around 1810&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johannes_Itten&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Johannes Itten&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;two colors are complementary if their pigments, &lt;strong&gt;mixed together produce&#xA;  a neutral gray-black.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Physically, light of two complementary colors,&#xA;  mixed together, will yield white. Two such colors are a strange pair.&#xA;  They are opposite, they require each other. They incite each other to&#xA;  maximum vividness when adjacent; and they annihilate each other, to&#xA;  gray-black, when mixed - like fire and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is always but one color complementary to a given color. In the color circle, complementary colors are diametrically opposite each other.&lt;sup&gt;✝&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image below, the colours on both sides of each strip are opposites, and it is shown that mixing them more and more with the other colour desaturates them, and finally yields a neutral grey colour in the middle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtUZx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YtUZx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Itten, exercises in complementary contrast&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The colours in a complementary contrast are each other's opposites, they cancel each other out. Because of this, they not only desaturate or attenuate the colour intensity, but also the temperature, the value (or lightness), and hue.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, practically, you can create greys in paint by mixing complementary colours, or get a more neutral colour when working with lighting when combining complementary coloured filters. This works both in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Additive_color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;additive&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subtractive_color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;subtractive&lt;/a&gt; colour mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Physically, the complementary colour of any given colour can be found by mixing all other colours: &quot;&lt;em&gt;for every hue, the sum of all the other colours in the spectrum is the complementary of that hue&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. &lt;sup&gt;❧&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;* See part 1, section 52 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gutenberg.org/files/50572/50572-h/50572-h.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;his colour theory&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;✝ Johannes Itten, Kunst der Farbe, 1961&lt;br&gt;&#xA;❧ English translation &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.be/books?id=ofvRhNBgoCoC&amp;amp;pg=PA49&amp;amp;lpg=PA49&amp;amp;dq#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-05-30T16:58:36.633" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T16:58:36.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6209" CreationDate="2019-05-30T13:27:34.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd attempt a more scientific answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Short answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mix of two complimentary colors is less saturated, because complimentary colors are composed of wavelengths that trigger different cones in our eyes. When combined, all cones are triggered more evenly, which makes our brain perceive the result as less saturated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Long answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Color&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I think it's important to keep in mind that &quot;color&quot; is a human construct to describe things we see - it makes color theory easier to understand. Colors are not consistent across languages (although &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMqZR3pqMjg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;there is some logic to them&lt;/a&gt;), some &quot;colors&quot; (e.g. silver vs blue) describe different optical qualities, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; colors? Everything we see is because of light. Light comes into our eyes and hits photosensitive cells, and some of these cells are sensitive to different wavelengths. Most people have three types (some have less, some have &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt;). Our brains perceive these three signals as colors: blue (shortest), green (middle) and red (longest). (&lt;a href=&quot;https://askabiologist.asu.edu/rods-and-cones&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more info&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all types of cones are stimulated evenly, we see white (or grey, depending on the amount of light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Saturation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;saturation&quot; is one of the terms we've created for describing colors. Saturation describes how &quot;bright&quot; a color is, or from the other end, how far from white it is. Therefore, we can roughly say that a saturated color hits only one or two types of cone, while desaturated hits all types to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The color wheel&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how does one take wavelengths and eye cones and get a &lt;em&gt;circle&lt;/em&gt;? The color wheel is a tool created by painters to predict how will different colors behave when mixed together. We figured the wave stuff &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; we made the wheel. The fact that the new science didn't break it is a testament to artists being really damn good at observing and describing cause-effect relationships. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in a way, we can say that we call colors &quot;complimentary&quot; &lt;em&gt;because&lt;/em&gt; they desaturate each other. They're on the opposite side of the color wheel, because that's what makes the wheel work as a predictor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But... how?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; do complimentary colors compliment each other? It's because they consist of wavelengths that trigger the &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; cone types. If one color triggers one cone type, the other triggers the other two. &lt;strong&gt;When you put complimentary colors together, the cone types are triggered more evenly, which makes them look closer to white, therefore less saturated.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6951" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T13:27:34.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6229" CreationDate="2019-06-01T19:12:40.817" Score="4" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make a piece of jewelry, in which I'll combine moissanite with rubies, to get a sort of transparent vs. red effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the moisannite gem to be exactly the same shape and size as the ruby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the moisannite that I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/182489892517&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bought on eBay for $20&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8Woj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8Woj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the 0.6 carat version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I want to buy a ruby that's the exact same size and shape, possibly from a different seller. Is that possible? I know that the cut is &quot;Round brilliant&quot;, but if I buy a Round Brilliant ruby, is it guaranteed to be the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; same shape or just somewhat similar? And how can I tell it'll be the same size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8055" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T18:57:58.993" Title="Buying a gem by exact shape" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-01T22:15:19.240" Score="3" ViewCount="1106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this old compass at a garage sale, and want to use it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DloeW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DloeW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;compass set&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I don't know about any of the parts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does anybody know what it is for and how to use/tighten it?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The compass won't stay, and will not draw circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e98bQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e98bQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the compass won&amp;#39;t stay and will not draw circles&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8059" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T20:00:55.313" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T20:00:55.313" Title="How do I use this old compass?" Tags="|drawing|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6215" CreationDate="2019-06-02T15:26:01.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oooh, I used to have one of these as a kid - not the whole set, sadly, but the compass itself and a few of the accessories. Congratulation on the purchase, it's a very satisfying tool to use. I inherited it in early 00s and it got me through 8 years of geometry classes; I vastly preferred it to the modern versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;First row&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&quot;Liner&quot;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm correct (it's not clear from the photo), this is a tool to make straight lines with ink. (I don't know the proper word for it.) It would have two blade-like parts connected by a screw which controls the distance between them. You dip this in ink, the space between holds and distributes it (it works like a dip pen nib hole, on the principle of surface tension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably useless these days, but might be fun to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Second row&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;??? possibly a liner leg for the compass?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really not sure from the picture. I never had this one. It might be a version of the previous tool that fits as a leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;???&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea, but I'm guessing a piece of sandpaper or something else for sharpening the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Spike&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would put this instead of the graphite leg and use it to measure distances - to get a more precise read than directly with a ruler, following a line etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Longer leg???&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks like another leg replacement, but I never had one of these and I can't tell from the photo. If there is a lead holder at the tip, then it's a longer leg for bigger circles. (And then I &lt;em&gt;wish&lt;/em&gt; I had that one, that could have come handy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Spare lead container&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practical and fancy looking. Very satisfying rattle. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Second row&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Compass&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compass should behave pretty much like any modern compass. The top leg (on the second photo) holds the lead; you replace the lead by unscrewing the tip (careful not to break the lead in the holder, it's hard to get out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosening the small wheel lets you take the leg off and replace it with something else, for example the spike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leg should be hinged a bit above the small wheel and turn inwards. That enables you to position the lead perfectly vertically, for very sharp circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small wheel on the bottom leg lets you adjust the length of the spike to fit the lead. Is there a hinge under the wheel? Some models also had a cool feature where you could flip the spike to choose between two different versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the compass is loose (I assume you mean that the legs open too easily) you can tighten the screw on the top hinge (visible in the second photo). Same can be done with the leg hinge (that screw is on the side, visible in the first photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On mine you could also unscrew the top handle, but I never learned what &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; is for, other than losing the damn bit. Maybe someone else will know. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6951" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T15:26:01.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-03T05:55:46.723" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV4hfmODq94&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV4hfmODq94&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV4hfmODq94&lt;/a&gt;) mentions the following methods to melt crayons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting the crayons into the hot glue gun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a hair dryer and point to the crayons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a lighted candle and point to the crayons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I was wondering if the following method can be a fourth method to melt crayons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By using the tip of a hot glue gun to slowly melt a crayon. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will that cause any damages to the hot glue gun?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And are there any precautions that I need to take note of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-27T18:21:16.917" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T18:21:16.917" Title="Is it safe to use the tip of a hot glue gun to melt crayons?" Tags="|safety|oil-pastels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6218" CreationDate="2019-06-03T11:14:31.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will work, as high temperatures melt the crayons, regardless of the device you use, but in all cases I'd suggest &lt;strong&gt;doing it in a well-ventilated room or outside&lt;/strong&gt;, as the fumes are a little toxic.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that holding the crayon in one hand while doing so is asking for trouble: &lt;strong&gt;wear a glove, or attach the crayon sturdily to something&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure &lt;strong&gt;crayons won't damage the glue gun&lt;/strong&gt; more extremely than the glues it is used for (I mean, the tip of the hot glue gun is made to withstand damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T11:14:31.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6222" CreationDate="2019-06-04T10:55:34.250" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am still on my journey in colour. I'm currently sitting at my desk so I'm unable to test the following myself: if I add a colour's complementary colour to &quot;meet in the middle&quot;, as it were, would they just be brown? Are they tertiary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand now that it reduces the saturation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8049" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T17:38:31.673" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T17:38:31.673" Title="What colour is a mix of two perfectly proportioned complementary colours?" Tags="|color|color-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-04T14:17:44.717" Score="2" ViewCount="9004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't been into it for the past 20 years or so, but after finding one of their shops a few weeks back I decided to look at painting Warhammer / Citadel Miniatures again as a hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was really enthusiastic about it until I saw the price of the (acrylic) paints, and after researching a little, it doesn't seem like their &quot;starter&quot; kits give you all that much for the money either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering if there was any particular range of paints which work in a similar way, for a fraction of the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, I'm trying to get back into this and therefore not sure if it's going to be a permenant thing or just something I want to try, so this isn't exactly a &quot;I want the product but don't want to pay for it&quot; kind of situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or advice? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8061" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T16:04:19.467" Title="Alternatives to Citadel / Games Workshop Paints" Tags="|painting|paint|acrylic-paint|miniatures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6220" CreationDate="2019-06-04T16:57:19.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the answers in your other question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/6209/why-do-complementary-colours-desaturate-each-other&quot;&gt;Why do complementary colours desaturate each other?&lt;/a&gt;) and the link in the comment by &lt;em&gt;Danielillo&lt;/em&gt; address, &lt;strong&gt;it will in theory be a perfect grey&lt;/strong&gt;: the complementary colours will have complementary temperature and value, so, after mixing, any pair of complementary colours will have the same perfectly neutral grey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, concerning the 'analogue' arts, &lt;strong&gt;in practice, other factors weigh in, like the quality and opacity of the pigment, and its coarseness&lt;/strong&gt;. This will make the mixing harder, the proportions variable, and in most cases causes an overtone of the stronger colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T16:57:19.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6221" CreationDate="2019-06-04T19:15:25.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Citadel paints are essentially just acrylic paints. If you're not sure you want to make the investment yet, you can use any standard craft-grade acrylic paint while you practice; I'd recommend investing in a flow medium to help prevent obscuring the small details in your miniatures, and not starting with any valued ones. (Dollar store plastic army men are a great way to practice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of Citadel and other paints formulated for miniatures is that they're designed to use on very small, very detailed objects. Basic craft acrylics tend to be designed for use over larger areas on larger objects, and thus tend to be thicker with a coarser pigmentation. Miniature paints use an acrylic medium with a greater flow, and pigments and mica (metallic pigments) with a finer grind, to enhance their appearance on miniatures. This difference in formulation contributes to the difference in price between the small pots of miniature paint and large bottles of craft paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T19:15:25.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-04T20:14:00.760" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to set up a flag painting station at a festival. I have a bunch of white pillowcases. What kind of paint/painting devices should I use? Ideally, the paint would allow rapid application (pens are pretty slow if you're covering a whole pillowcase with a simple design) and dry quickly (traditional fabric paint doesn't), although I suspect those may be mutually-exclusive requirements? It doesn't need to look good up close and it doesn't need to be durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8063" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T22:45:24.517" Title="Rapidly Paint Fabric Flags?" Tags="|paint|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6224" CreationDate="2019-06-04T22:45:24.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rollers in various widths with a fast drying acrylic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would insert a piece of card inside each pillow to stop the design running through to the other side and to keep the fabric straight. Your challenge is to keep the fabric flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To speed the drying process, or to store or display finished or unclaimed works, rather than using a table, find some sort of rack arrangement, or use the sides of the marquee with bulldog clips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hair dryer will speed up the drying process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T22:45:24.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6221" CreationDate="2019-06-05T16:04:19.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The benefit of the miniature-specific paints are that they are ready to go right out of the container with the right medium for painting miniatures and a decent amount of pigmentation and opacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get similar cheaper results by adding a flow medium to lower-end artist-quality acrylics. These aren't the &quot;craft&quot; paints that cost $1.50 and come in the 2oz bottles, these would be brands similar to the Liquitex Basics line of fluid acrylics. The difference is that the artist paints have more pigmentation so the colors are more saturated and give you better coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also go one step cheaper and use the craft paints mentioned above (Apple Barrel, Ceremacoat, etc.) with either a flow medium or just distilled water to thin them out, but it's very hard to get deep saturated colors that way, and it can take several coats to cover over dark-colored mistakes with a light color. I personally find it's just not worth it, but it's how I started out and it was good enough to let me know that I liked painting minis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a cheap alternative to artist-quality flow mediums, you can try Flood Floetrol, it's sold at most hardware stores, costs roughly $7 a quart. A quart is about 5 times more than you'll probably ever be able use but I haven't seen it in smaller quantities. It's made for latex based paints, but it works fine with acrylics. The benefit over water is that it doesn't dilute your colors nearly as much as water. You can generally get away with 2 parts Floetrol to one part artist paint before you start to lose color, although you'll probably find that you want much less than that for the best ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1197" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T16:04:19.467" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6189" CreationDate="2019-06-05T16:23:23.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finishing Technique -- this is a catch-all term all of the work done after the knitting techniques are done and before the work is done. Examples are seaming the individual pieces of a sweater together, weaving in the loose ends of yarn left over from color changes, or attaching the arms and legs of a knitted stuffed animal to the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm always the most impressed with knitting that is finished well. The knitting itself might be simple, but seaming a drop-shoulder arm piece to a body piece and making it look professional is difficult, and often separates good knitters from great ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things that often separate casual knitters from enthusiasts are dying your own yarn, or spinning your own yarn from wool with a drop spindle or even a spinning wheel. I'm not sure if there's a correlation between those who dye and spin to those who have great knitting skills, but I've never met someone who dyes or spins who isn't deeply into knitting or crocheting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1197" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T16:23:23.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-05T18:35:33.113" Score="4" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any idea what material the below leotard is made out of? It is shinier than any material I have seen before, and want to make another bit of clothing partly out of the same material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R8Sn3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R8Sn3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8065" LastEditorUserId="8065" LastEditDate="2019-06-05T19:15:46.757" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T22:39:45.810" Title="Material identification" Tags="|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6213" CreationDate="2019-06-05T18:57:58.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;round brilliant&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Round is the shape.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Brilliant is how the gem is cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The modern round brilliant consists of 58 facets&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brilliant_(diamond_cut)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gemselect.com/help/faq/gemstone-measurements.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gemstones can be measured in different ways&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Three measurements: Length x Width x Height (depth) for oval or polygon gems&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Two measurements: Width x Height (depth) for round gems&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sometimes only one measurement is given: Width. i.e. 5 mm round / square gemstone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Round gemstones should be symmetrical with a perfectly circular outline. However, in practice, a good percentage of gemstones are native-cut without the use of precision lasers and other advanced lapidary tools, so many round gems are not actually perfect circles and are rather better described as being near-round. This is why you may find that many still use three measurements for round gems. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gemselect.com/other-gems/round-shapes.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gemselect.com&lt;/a&gt; (not an endorsement of their store or products. Information only)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom line&lt;/strong&gt;: To get something the same size as the stones you have you will need to measure them and then look for stones with the same numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mass produced jewelry settings come in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gemsociety.org/article/standard-gem-sizes-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;standard gem sizes&lt;/a&gt;. Some makers will cater to these sizes and make stones that fit. If the stones you have are a standard size you increase the chances of finding matches.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Note: the linked standard gem sizes chart shows a size by weight. The chart is for diamonds - other types of stones will have a different weight to size because they have different &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gemsociety.org/article/select-gems-ordered-density/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;densities&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you find something with the exact same numbers different makers will have different tolerances and have different levels of consistency. You will have to decide how close is close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6946" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T18:57:58.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6228" CreationDate="2019-06-05T19:48:23.697" Score="9" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Metallic Spandex&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See some samples at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=Metallic%20Spandex&amp;amp;rlz=1C5MACD_enFR506FR507&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwi485DkjdPiAhUS4OAKHV2_AQIQ_AUIECgB&amp;amp;biw=1854&amp;amp;bih=1136&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Images&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCHVU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCHVU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2019-06-05T22:39:45.810" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T22:39:45.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6189" CreationDate="2019-06-09T12:47:10.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still far from done with this story, but to those who might be interested in reading it, here's the opening scene to whet your appetites.  Contains some NSFW language and themes, so if this is against site policy please let me know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We all stopped talking the instant Sue entered the room.  It couldn't&#xA;  have been much more obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;She took a few steps towards the centre, enjoying it, letting the&#xA;  tension build, before finally putting it out there: &quot;Well boys, what&#xA;  do we think of the new girl?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A long pause followed as we eyed each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Seems nice,&quot; volunteered Nick at last, his face a study of innocence.&#xA;  No, more than that: &lt;em&gt;upbeat&lt;/em&gt; innocence.  &lt;em&gt;Family-friendly Nick:&#xA;  suitable for a general audience.&lt;/em&gt;  How nobody snickered I'll never&#xA;  know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Is that what you noticed first?  That she's &lt;em&gt;nice?&lt;/em&gt;&quot; said Sue.  I had&#xA;  a feeling I knew where this was going.  The others didn't know Sue as&#xA;  well as I did.  Sure enough: &quot;Cos what &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; noticed were her &lt;em&gt;tits.&lt;/em&gt; &#xA;  They're everywhere!&quot;  She mimed with her hands, jangling them crazily&#xA;  as she walked -- bouncing off furniture, sound effects, the works. &#xA;  Brendan and I cracked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nick, meanwhile, was recovering quickly.  &quot;Might've noticed it second,&#xA;  actually, the niceness.  Now that I think about it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;And you'll be thinking about it some more soon, no doubt,&quot; she&#xA;  snapped back, eyebrow raised.  So quick.  No humming and hawing, just&#xA;  the goods.  Nick had nothing for that; he bowed graciously and we all&#xA;  laughed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;It's not just that though, she's got a great body overall, great&#xA;  face, solid ten out of ten,&quot; said Sam, apparently blind to the glares&#xA;  the three other guys were shooting him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sue didn't seem bothered though.  &quot;Well, I'm heading downtown to get&#xA;  some food and stuff, anyone need anything?&quot; she said.  But as it&#xA;  happened, the rest of us were all well-stocked.  She jangled across&#xA;  the room and out the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The moment she'd left the room, Brendan was on Sam's case.  &quot;Why'd you&#xA;  say that, man?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;What?  She brought it up!&quot;  Oh, Sam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Isn't it obvious?  No one wants to--&quot;  But we all knew there was no&#xA;  getting through to Sam.  &quot;Just dial it the fuck down next time dude. &#xA;  Please.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sam left for practice soon after that, and Brendan came over to me.  &quot;Sue's pretty&#xA;  cool, man.  I mean, a lotta girls would, you know--&quot;  He had a habit&#xA;  of starting sentences that could only end awkwardly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;I know what you mean,&quot; I said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8031" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T12:47:10.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="313" CreationDate="2019-06-11T00:52:41.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on personal preference. E.G what are you actually looking to do? Are you wanting to embroid or quilt etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an interesting beginners guide on all the parts of a sewing machine &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quiltedsewing.com/best-sewing-machine-for-quilting/parts-of-a-sewing-machine-beginners-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That website also has guides on which sewing machine you need so its worth a look. But for a basic sewing machine if you do not have any specific requirements I would look for what the top commentor above has said which is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic stitches - running stitch, zig zag, blind hem stitch&#xA;Adjustable tension - to accommodate lighter fabrics&#xA;Adjustable stitch length&#xA;Reverse (almost all modern machines have it, it's just handy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helped! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8076" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T00:52:41.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5984" CreationDate="2019-06-11T01:04:18.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally think this is an overlock stitch, however, I may be wrong! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter of this question I can answer though... Yes, the Brother CS6000i does allow an overlock stitch. I own a Brother CS6000i myself and can confirm this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already know about the Brother CS6000i then you can ignore this part, but there is a review of it &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quiltedsewing.com/best-sewing-machine-for-quilting/brother-cs6000i-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (unfortunately it does not seem to mention the different types of stitches) but it gives a decent insight into the Brother CS6000i. Anyway I hope I helped in some form or another, I am not an expert in sewing (Still learning :P) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8077" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T01:04:18.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-11T05:33:33.640" Score="1" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying out the following craft idea, the ingredients and steps are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ingredients&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water (or distilled water) that is dyed using three colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Test tube with cork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot-glue stick (and shredded into small 1mm to 5mm size)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glitters Glue (with different colors)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour the red dyed color water into the test tube (around 5ml to 10ml).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put some shredded hot-glue stick and make sure that it covers the red dyed water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour some glittered glue and wait for 10 mins before putting another layer of shredded hot-glue stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for a day (to ensure that the glue fully dries).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour the blue dyed color water into the test tube (around 5ml to 10ml).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put some shredded hot-glue stick and make sure that it covers the blue dyed water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour some glittered glue and wait for 10 minutes before putting another layer of shredded hot-glue stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for a day (to ensure that the glue fully dries).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pour the green dyed color water into the test tube (around 5ml to 10ml or to near the tip of the test tube).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the test tube with the cork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enjoy the multiple layers of dyed water with glittered glue and shredded hot glue stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Illustration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6hbvN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6hbvN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the most important part - will the above craft idea work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concerns&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the glittered glue eventually give way, regardless of whether the test tube is shaken or not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need to mix special glue (like water-proof silicone glue) with the glittered glue to strengthen the layering?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other precautions or measures do I need to take to ensure all the layers will stay where they are supposed to be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T08:15:07.323" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T08:15:07.323" Title="Layers of liquid with glittered glue and shredded hot glue stick in a test tube" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6235" CreationDate="2019-06-11T13:10:30.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's likely that an off-the-shelf glitter glue will give out, if it hardens at all in the wet environment. Glitter glue is a PVA glue, which tends to soften and dissolve when exposed to water; it's the same base as &quot;washable school glue,&quot; and while different PVA glues have different solubilities, the base used in glitter glues is a highly soluble base for easy clean-up when used by children. &quot;Shredded hot glue&quot; is not going to provide a sufficient moisture barrier to prevent the glue from eventually being dissolved away by the water, and it's unlikely that the PVA glue will sufficiently bond to the glass to stop liquid from seeping between layers, especially as it begins to dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may wish to use a different type of glue, but as an alternate approach, evaluate what appearance you want from this at the end. Is it just layers of translucent colors? If so, consider tinted crafting resins (please follow all safety instructions!); these will be solid when they cure, and will have no risk of spilling or mingling with each other. If the liquid appearance is important, use a waterproof glue that will also adhere to glass, such as aquarium glue, but be aware that this may not dry when in direct or near-direct contact with the liquid. You'll want to test it before committing to your full project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T13:10:30.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6243" CreationDate="2019-06-12T08:24:20.587" Score="3" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard quality ranking for oil paints?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How do specific oils relate to the quality of oil paints?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can anyone provide a top five or top ten of brands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7992" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T13:12:16.947" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T09:33:54.007" Title="Quality ranking of oil paint brands" Tags="|material-selection|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="313" CreationDate="2019-06-12T12:41:50.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd buy an older Janome or Lemair. I have had both, and they are tough and reliable. I have made curtains for two houses etc. I’m sure other brands can be recommended. Speak with a sewing machine repair shop to guide your final choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you’ll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A strong enough inbuilt light&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be able to remove part of the machine, which then, because that section becomes narrower, allows you to say, sew a hem on trousers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An inbuilt thread cutter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A reverse function ( I’m sure y’all have that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bobbin rethreading design that is simple to use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Easy to thread&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A foot pedal with a power cord long enough to not be annoying if you're sitting next to a high bench&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nice to have a lid that pops open and stores the range of feet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bobbin loading system that is simple and fuss free. I’ve noticed they differ slightly, ie one was slightly more fiddly than the other&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are sewing is also really important. With the right needle and a tough machine you can sew leather without dropping a single stitch (eg I made an ebook reader case out of an old pair of leather pants).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your biggest learning curve will be getting the thread tension right. Watch a video on that before you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="2673" LastEditDate="2022-10-26T15:04:33.133" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T15:04:33.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6240" CreationDate="2019-06-12T15:41:28.153" Score="1" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to protect my drawings from dust and smudging them, I used to keep my A4 size drawings in a office file like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXEU8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXEU8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXEU8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've started drawing on A3 sized papers, and I don't know where to keep them. Shall I go with a similar file that I used to use, with a larger dimension, or is there some special file for keeping artworks? And how can I Google it (I tried, but found only office files).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T19:16:57.017" LastActivityDate="2024-03-22T15:37:55.000" Title="How should I keep my unframed A3 size pencil drawings?" Tags="|drawing|paper|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6239" CreationDate="2019-06-12T15:48:51.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;A3 Drawings Briefcase&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zcTfy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zcTfy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C5MACD_enFR506FR507&amp;amp;biw=1901&amp;amp;bih=1219&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;ei=Rx4BXay3Op6CjLsP2raWkA0&amp;amp;q=A3%20drawings%20briefcase&amp;amp;oq=A3%20drawings%20briefcase&amp;amp;gs_l=img.3...1147.28973..29440...0.0..0.675.1578.1j1j5-2......0....1j2..gws-wiz-img.......0i8i7i30.uiCbEAd26BQ#imgrc=_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google search link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T15:48:51.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6237" CreationDate="2019-06-14T10:36:37.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no standard quality ranking for artist oil paints, however, generally, they are sold as Professional, Artist or Student grade with different brands having their own names. Price also is usually an indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is more useful to think of paint in terms of purity rather than quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top end manufacturers are pigment makers firstly, the rarer the material and the more complex the manufacturing process the more expensive the pigment and thus the paint. (See Lapis lazuli, rose madder, mummy brown for examples). The most expensive paint contains one expensive pigment with oil added. A cheaper paint in the same range will be exactly the same quality only with a pigment that is easier to produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Budget paints will have two or more cheap pigments (and possibly filler) mixed together to resemble a single pigment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil is basically a medium to get the pigment from the tube to the canvas, cure, harden and then leave the pigments in as pure a condition as possible. Different oils are used, the most common is heat-treated linseed, I have also used walnut oil and safflower oil. The different oils have different effects on drying time, consistency, and finish, but this is a good thing as it provides flexibility and creativity which in my opinion is the essence of oil painting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that safflower oil separates in the tube and that linseed oil goes hard over time. I would say that that is just a common problem that relates to ageing or poor storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a list of popular brands looking online, if you are a student you could start with something like Monte Mart, Maries, or if you had a bit more money to spend you could look at the Winsor and Newton Winton range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are serious and want to keep going you will probably be able to answer your own question by that time and discover brands like: Blockx, Michael Harding, M.Graham, Sennelier... I use M.Graham and Art Spectrum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8085" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T10:36:37.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6237" CreationDate="2019-06-15T14:05:09.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As mentioned in the comments, an absolute ranking of brands would be primarily opinion-based, as there are as many preferences and requirements of oil paints as there are artists.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;However, a lot can be said about the quality of oil paints, and the range is sufficiently large to allow for a general objective positioning of brands within that spectrum.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;QUALITY DIFFERENCES&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil paints are suspensions of pigments in oil, sometimes in conjunction with small amounts of other ingredients - fillers, waxes, resins - that change their characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both oil and pigment have vastly varying differences in quality, and, together with their ratio, determine the level of quality of the paint.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Higher lightfastness of both the oil and the pigment, and higher opacity and colour retention of the pigments, are the characteristics of an oil paint of good quality. In addition, the artist will generally need less higher quality paint to acquire a same amount of colour luminance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oils&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The type and purity of the oil influences the drying time, the clarity of the colours, and the lightfastness of the paint.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Linseed oil is the most common oil used in manufactured paints. Poppy oil is sometimes used as a replacement: it is more expensive, but also more lightfast and transparent.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pigments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The quality of the pigment - its particle size, origin, and purity - are important for the quality of the paint: they are decisive for the permanence, brilliance, and stability of the colour.&#xA;A higher ratio of pigment, referred to as pigmentation, will increase the opacity and intensity of the paint, although making the paint relatively thicker and faster-drying.&#xA;Especially in lower ranking oil paints, pigments are often replaced by chemical alternatives - although in some cases they have achieved better painting characteristics than their antecedents, or even surpassed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A famous example of a high quality pigment that is almost always replaced by a synthetic substitute is &lt;em&gt;ultramarine&lt;/em&gt;: traditionally, this is made from the semi-precious gemstone &lt;em&gt;lapis lazuli&lt;/em&gt; (found '&lt;em&gt;across the sea&lt;/em&gt;' from Italy, or '&lt;em&gt;ultra marina&lt;/em&gt;') that is ground very finely. Hence, the oil paints containing it are expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Other substances may be added to the paint to change its properties, like drying-time, UV-resistance, and glossiness. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for an overview.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;On the other hand, in economy paints, fillers may be used that improve the consistency of the paint, while suppressing the costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RANKING&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the above information in mind, the vast differences in quality of oil paints are obvious. With that knowledge, looking through the information on their websites will allow you to decide what you are willing to pay for what level of quality, based on your personal preferences and style.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Some brands (like &lt;em&gt;Winsor &amp;amp; Newton&lt;/em&gt;) offer multiple series in multiple ranges, whereas other names (like &lt;em&gt;Old Holland&lt;/em&gt;), are exclusively producing paints of a specific level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the top of highly qualitative oil paints, brands like &lt;em&gt;Old Holland&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Holbein&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Schmincke Mussini&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Sennelier&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Blockx&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Michael Harding&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Williamsburg&lt;/em&gt;, all of which are at least more than a century old (excepting the last one), have established an excellent reputation among professionals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mid-range we find brands like &lt;em&gt;Gamblin&lt;/em&gt;, and some of the &lt;em&gt;Winsor &amp;amp; Newton&lt;/em&gt; series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At economy level, &lt;em&gt;Royal Talens' Rembrandt&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Winsor &amp;amp; Newton's Winton&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Royal Talens' Van Gogh&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Grumbacher&lt;/em&gt; have been helping out students and hobbyists around the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Generally speaking, the higher the price, the higher the quality&lt;/strong&gt;. The generality of this rule is more applicable here in the field of (oil) paints, than in many other. Do note that this only really applies to well-established brands as sold in respectable art stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T09:33:54.007" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T09:33:54.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6245" CreationDate="2019-06-16T07:20:48.983" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a concern with designing a stuffed toy which is that over time, if stuffing gets displaced from a particular region like an arm or a torso, it will be permanently deformed since the only way to move the stuffing back precisely would be to physically cut it and resew it which I wouldn't be around to do. &#xA;How do I make sure stuffing always stays in place? Or otherwise what other material options are there besides fabric and stuffing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8091" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T17:54:13.900" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T17:54:13.900" Title="What do you incorporate into a stuffed animal so that it doesn't permanently deform?" Tags="|sewing|fabric|stuffing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6244" CreationDate="2019-06-16T08:42:33.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compartmentalization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to prevent displacement is by making sure the stuffing cannot move anywhere. If all basic shapes (limbs, head, torso, &amp;amp;c.) are separated from the others by an internal wall or membrane, you will prevent the filling from moving outside their limited volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use pre-shaped filling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can alternatively adapt the stuffing to the final shape of the volume it will occupy.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will probably have to adjust your technique a little, since this requires adapting the shell fabric around the stuffing, and sewing it in place.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This will have consequences for the tactile qualities of the stuffed toy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T08:42:33.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2359" CreationDate="2019-06-18T03:43:26.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could be creative and use cosmetic product names as a guide and then mix your colours to match. &#xA;Having said that though, take foundation as an example, Clarins uses descriptions like honey, wheat, cappuccino, sand etc. to describe, what in their opinion, skin tones look like.&#xA;Language, race and cultural issues I think would create sensitivity around naming skin colour in a literal way.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8085" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T03:43:26.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-18T15:24:53.707" Score="1" ViewCount="4945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke my favourite mug recently and I'm still getting over it. It broke at the side of the mug and a good chunk got broken. I got this from S America and it looks like it's made of clay and then painted over on the outside. Anyway in my haste, I decided to try and glue it back together using Araldite and it does seem to have worked as in, the broken piece is solidly in place and hardened in that area.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is is it safe now (from a purely health point of view) to drink tea/coffee or anything else from it? I know Araldite is non-toxic but is it possible maybe some can get into contact with the hot liquid? Does this combination make the liquid dangerous to drink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8103" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T19:49:20.773" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T10:00:34.650" Title="Mug fixing with Araldite" Tags="|adhesives|restoration|food-safe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6248" CreationDate="2019-06-18T21:05:04.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Araldite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has the following to say about that specific brand of adhesives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After curing, the joint is claimed to be impervious to boiling water&#xA;  and all common organic solvents.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming yours is an epoxy-based adhesive, &lt;a href=&quot;https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?248630-Advice-Is-epoxy-glue-food-safe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum&lt;/a&gt; offers a lot more information on the food-safety of (general) epoxies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can use epoxy - &lt;strong&gt;once fully cured, it is pretty inert stuff&lt;/strong&gt; (generally takes a week to two&#xA;  weeks). Separately, the hardener and resin&#xA;  are not. But once its undergone full cure, it is. I spoke to the tech&#xA;  guys 20 years ago from one of the more popular marine epoxies, as I&#xA;  was hoping to coat the insides of a few bins that were to hold food. I&#xA;  was asking about using their epoxy. He could not technically say &quot;yes&quot;&#xA;  as it doesn't have a certification for food contact. Off the record he&#xA;  said as long as you let the epoxy cure fully, it won't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, following that post, and verbalizing my thoughts at this point (somewhat ironically maybe):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Andrew's answer sounds right to me, but &lt;strong&gt;really important issues merit&#xA;  more research than reading answers on an Internet forum&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the users contacted another company that produces adhesives, about the safety of using it on kitchenware: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I used some of the Bob Smith epoxy, so I emailed them and asked. The word I got back was: &lt;strong&gt;the slow-cure is food safe as long as it is not heated above 180 degrees Fahrenheit&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most interestingly of all of these, however, is the last post: it mentions that &lt;strong&gt;most epoxies conform to the FDA CFR 175.105 specification&lt;/strong&gt;, which basically means, although emphatically not guaranteed to be food-safe, it can be when applied properly. Meaning that, once again, the epoxy has to be completely cured:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Epoxy reaches it full cure in 7+ days. It will&#xA;  cure to within ~80% in the first 24 hours, but the full cure takes&#xA;  time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In short, leave your mug drying for at least a week, after which make sure it has completely hardened and is odourless.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you might want to check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jana-ksa.net/e/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Jana_Huntsman-Araldite-Food-Potable-Water-contact-statement-181106.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt;: it lists several of Araldite's epoxies (or components) that meet the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.masterbond.com/certifications/food-grade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDA CFR 175.105&lt;/a&gt; or the (stricter) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.masterbond.com/certifications/food-grade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FDA CFR 175.300&lt;/a&gt; specification. Maybe the specific Araldite adhesive you used is mentioned there as well, giving you even more peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T10:00:34.650" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T10:00:34.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-19T10:13:48.610" Score="2" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to replace one of the drive belts, the smaller one with the square teeth, on my Husqvarna Viking 2000. I cannot find anywhere the size or type of belt used. Any help in finding a replacement or determining the specs of the missing belt would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8106" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-06-20T07:10:51.630" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T17:32:35.430" Title="Husqvarna Viking 2000, on the off chance anyone knows the specs of the drive belt" Tags="|sewing-machine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6248" CreationDate="2019-06-20T13:58:12.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per an email from Araldite customer service:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;None of our Araldite® products carry food safety certifications (although there are several that would likely be safe for food contact). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Best regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a request for a follow-up on specific formulations that might be safe in contact with hot water, they replied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You could probably use Araldite® 2014, for example, but we don't have any certifications for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-06-20T14:31:38.493" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T14:31:38.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-20T15:42:18.037" Score="3" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only just now learning how to best estimate less or more vibrant colours and a large part of this seems to be to see what colours make up the secondary colours being used to mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finding it very difficult to tell which colours are made by which primaries. I would like to learn to tell how certain colours were mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only using acrylic paint. Mostly these paints are for miniature painting, though I am sure the colour theories are the same as canvas painting ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8049" LastEditorUserId="8049" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T09:40:09.523" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T19:48:08.497" Title="How to tell which way a colour is leaning?" Tags="|painting|color|color-theory|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6250" CreationDate="2019-06-20T17:32:35.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/cog-belt-short-9-1-2-viking-4111940-01.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sewingpartsonline.com&lt;/a&gt; (not an endorsement) the Husqvarna Viking cog belt (short 9 1/2&quot;) part number is 4111940-01:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Guaranteed to fit Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machine Models:&#xA;   #1+, 100, 1020, 1030, 1040, 105, 1060, 120, 1200, 1250, 150, 180, 185, 190, &lt;strong&gt;2000&lt;/strong&gt;, 2020, 3230, 3240, 4020, 4030, 5220, 5230, 5430, 6010, 6030, 610, 6170, 620, 6230, 6240, 6260, 6270, 630, 6360, 6370, 6430, 6440, 6460, 6470, 6570, 6690, 90, 95, Classica 100, Orchidea&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dtryg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dtryg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my best guess based on my best effort at searching. Please verify your belt matches this description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6946" LastActivityDate="2019-06-20T17:32:35.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6277" CreationDate="2019-06-20T18:51:53.937" Score="6" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am stuck in step 7 to step 8 transition of the foxy fox model by John Szinger specified in the picture below.&#xA;Can somebody explain which folds are exactly being done to complete this transition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTQds.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTQds.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8112" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T21:56:14.753" Title="Help needed to transfer bird base to stretched bird base variant in John Szinger's origami fox model" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6257" CreationDate="2019-06-21T17:06:18.783" Score="3" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old axe head, kind of a family heirloom, that I want to clean and restore. Given its age (approx. 60-70 years) and condition, my goal is not to make it usable as an axe, but preservation and possibly use as decoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, there is no wooden handle, I'm only asking about the metal part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have started removing loose rust using sandpaper and WD-40. However, even where the loose rust is removed, the metal surface is very pitted, and I was unable to remove rust from these pits and indentations (some 1 to 5 mm in diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking for advice (and/or resources) on removing rust from this pitted metal surface. I don't need it to be 100% smooth and polished and shiny, but I want to prevent further rusting and give the old piece a decent look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8116" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-06-22T08:34:17.220" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T08:34:17.220" Title="Rusty axe head restoration" Tags="|preservation|metal|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6258" CreationDate="2019-06-21T21:19:21.227" Score="5" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought 2 necklaces from the same place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The necklace on the left is 3mm width, has a dark metal color similar to that of stainless steel and tarnishes in a matter of days on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The necklase on the right is 2mm width, is very light, bright color and tarnishes in a matter of years on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of the chains are marked 925.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason the wider and bigger necklace would be made from a different type of silver alloy as I see it very commonly used in bigger pieces of jewelry or was I just fooled by the seller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nsj5K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nsj5K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;different silver alloy necklaces&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8119" LastEditorUserId="8119" LastEditDate="2019-06-21T23:45:09.813" LastActivityDate="2022-08-07T15:34:26.247" Title="Differences between silver jewelry alloys" Tags="|jewelry|metal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2019-06-21T21:52:56.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of &quot;baths&quot; one can use to clean the rust pretty thoroughly from a part you described. WD-40 makes a product which performs well in the YouTube videos I've seen. Pour a sufficient amount to cover the item in a plastic bin and let it soak. I understand from the videos that the smell of the used liquid is objectionable, so stand upwind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some agitation would improve the action, as well as higher temperatures. Perhaps leave it in the sun to assist the thermal aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search for rust removal liquid returns many options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the rust is removed and the part is washed of the chemical, you can coat it with a polyurethane clear product or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T21:52:56.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6256" CreationDate="2019-06-22T01:18:28.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel ( assuming 316 ) is more corrosion resistant than silver and would not darken in air. Silver darkens with exposure to hydrogen sulfide ; yes I know there is &quot;no&quot; H2S around the home. However some smell from eggs is a ppb ( part per billion = not very much)  of H2S , and most of that and sewer gas H2S finds and reacts with any silver turning it dark. Most have experienced putting silver in a drawer or box and finding years later that it has darkened ( from sulfide). 92.5  % is the minimum silver content to be called sterling silver, so presumably both items are silver, the balance is primarily copper,  but may have a little nickel or zinc. My guess is that the brighter piece has a plating like rhodium to prevent the usual darkening of silver. But the real answer is that a jeweler would need to examine it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T01:18:28.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2019-06-22T01:28:23.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most commonly rust is dissolved with phosphoric acid, AKA- conversion coating ( from a serious paint store) , AKA- Navel Jelly. It washes off with water or soap and water.  Soak it and stiff wire brush it. Then oil or put on a clear finish. You may have some deep pits left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T01:28:23.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-06-22T01:45:06.480" Score="3" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of my old bristle brushes have loose ferrules. I am a bit hesitant to tighten the metal with pliers in fear of crushing the wood and making them even looser.&#xA;Has anyone had any success tightening loose ferrules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8085" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-06-23T01:20:53.493" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T11:18:47.667" Title="Loose ferrules on my oil brushes" Tags="|oil-paint|paint-brushes|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6279" CreationDate="2019-06-23T12:40:08.473" Score="3" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have started learning to draw. I watched some proko tutorials to learn the basic idea (that I'm generally supposed to think in 3D, what are bodies made of etc), consulted some books, watched some paintings from the past to see what they did etc. At the moment I still need a lot of practice (of everything, basically) so I still draw like an elementary schooler, but in general I've been having fun and I liked where I was going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, however, I recall that way in the past I heard some statements by people who uploaded images on the Internet who were greatly dissatisfied in their ability to draw, and where they are as an artist, and blamed that on learning to draw some way which permanently (?) gimped their ability create the art they want. Usually they referred to manga-style, but I've also heard of someone who tried to copy pictures by hand (in an effort to be a hyperrealist artist), realised that despite being able to copy extremely well he does it a &quot;wrong&quot; way he's dissatisfied with (I think he couldn't do anything beyond copying), and had to relearn everything from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are those real dangers I'm about to get myself into? I don't really recall any skilled and accomplished artist to talk about it, is it because they never encountered any such problem, or is it a made up issue? Is there a way to avoid such a great flaw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8110" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T21:44:35.963" Title="Is it possible to get a &quot;crutch&quot; when learning to draw that will stop you from drawing well?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6266" CreationDate="2019-06-23T16:17:17.707" Score="24" ViewCount="11886" Body="&lt;p&gt;The QR would be of a URL. The QR should be big enough like 4 A4 size papers. I though of cutting out the white boxes from a printed paper and spray on it but what about white dot islands. The precision needs to be good enough for a cell phone camera to detect it on the floor from standing distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8122" LastEditorUserId="8122" LastEditDate="2019-06-25T16:26:28.933" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T17:52:56.730" Title="What are good ways to spray paint a QR code on a footpath?" Tags="|painting|graffiti|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6338" CreationDate="2019-06-23T17:37:30.533" Score="3" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be a good way to make cement with lots of hollow areas? I want it to resemble a sponge when cured. I’ve see a similar material used as siding in buildings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8124" LastActivityDate="2021-10-09T05:11:53.310" Title="Make Cement with Lots of Holes" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6262" CreationDate="2019-06-23T18:09:29.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your islands can become insignificant by creating stencil like bridges to the more solidly founded segments. A bridge of a few millimeters will bleed paint underneath but also will be small enough to be ignored by the QR software from a distance appropriate to the size of the code print. If the few millimeters is excessive, hot glue applied to ordinary sewing thread in more locations (spider web?) will provide the support and almost assure bleed under.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T18:09:29.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6261" CreationDate="2019-06-23T18:40:37.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that this is some kind of subjective issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I want to learn to draw and I start with drawing &quot;manga-style&quot;. At first probably I will be not good, but exercising more I will be able to draw manga really well.&#xA;At this point if I want to draw something in a realistic style I will not succed for sure and I will have to learn the basics of this different style. If I just want to draw manga I will not ever notice this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you are going to learn some basics valid for all kinds of art, such as composition, colour theory, shading and light, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would say: start learning all those basic skills. The style is something that you can change, but the basics are all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I will advise you to start drawing from real life because it challenges your eye/brain activity and really improves how you look at shapes and figures around you, which is probably the most important skill of all for an artist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember also that all the big artist are those who never stop to learn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2281" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T18:40:37.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6262" CreationDate="2019-06-23T19:20:23.150" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;One approach to avoid the &quot;island&quot; problem could be to split the pattern into two stencils. In each stencil only the holes of every other row are cut out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6pK5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6pK5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First colour is applied to one of the stencils. Then the stencil is exchanged and the colour is applied to the other stencil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weak point of this approach is that both stencil need to be placed at the same position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8081" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T19:20:23.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6262" CreationDate="2019-06-24T04:34:07.313" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of spraypaint - consider a &quot;pavement sticker&quot; or &quot;footpath decal&quot;  that looks something like these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brighter background colour will help it stand out much more than paint on a dingy pavement/sidewalk.   And you can peel, stick, stomp and go, whereas paint takes at least a minute to be touch dry, risking people standing in your tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LaWT5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LaWT5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ck2sp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ck2sp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CWIH7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CWIH7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper won't last very long, which might be suitable for your needs.  A solid vinyl sticker could last up to years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8130" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T04:34:07.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6270" CreationDate="2019-06-24T05:27:21.393" Score="1" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a plane of certain dimensions X and Y, and are looking at it perpendicularly by means of orthographic projection. The plane rotates 45 degrees on the X or Y axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this situation, I would expect that the plane, once it has rotated, would appear to have half its original dimension opposite the direction of rotation (rotation on X-axis would change the apparent length of Y); or that the plane shrunk by 50%.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I would expect a &lt;em&gt;linear transition&lt;/em&gt;. Why isn't this the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8131" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T14:03:42.330" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T14:03:42.330" Title="Why isn’t a orthographically projected plane at 45 degrees seemingly half its actual length?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2019-06-24T23:26:45.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6269" CreationDate="2019-06-24T05:30:38.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, a vertical plane (geometrical entity) seen from the front of an orthographic system will shrink on the horizontal axis due to rotation around the vertical axis until it becomes invisible, but at middle point of rotation, the projection will be longer then half of the actual length.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3l24.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3l24.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How come is the projection shrinking in the first place?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top angle rotation implies movement in 2 axis, in this case upwards and to the left. However, because from the front angle the up vector becomes backwards vector, the movement on that axis will not be visible in projection. That leaves only movement to the left to be projected, therefore the plane will shrink horizontally.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ovcuq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ovcuq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At what rate is the shrinking?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change in size happens gradually (not linearly), first slower, then faster, or vice-versa, because the trajectory is an arc, not a straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.1. How to geometrically describe an arc/circle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An arc can be simplified by using equal segments. Every segment has a certain angle, depending on it’s length, and the next segment inherits the angle and is rotated still by the same degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbQbT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbQbT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.2. Why does the trajectory matters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closer the plane is to 90 degrees (to the projection plane) the smaller the projection, and the closer it is to being parallel, the closer to actual length. If every projected segment has a different, increasing angle, the length will grow bigger with every increment of the arc. This is the projection of the rate of shrinking..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LO7Dl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LO7Dl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the trajectory would be a straight line at 45 degrees, then at 45 degrees the projection would be at half the actual length. However, this means the plane would have to shrink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVFFL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qVFFL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion I would like to add that this is a matter of rotation and it is valid in perspective as well. However, in perspective translation also marks the scaling of an object. I think foreshortening refers only to translation, not to rotation. Nevertheless, a projection can change size according to rotation as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8131" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T05:30:38.883" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6262" CreationDate="2019-06-24T12:36:17.680" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about a custom 3D printed embossing roller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDbWP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDbWP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2019-06-24T17:27:34.607" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T17:27:34.607" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6262" CreationDate="2019-06-24T14:53:57.557" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://fffff.at/qr-stenciler-and-qr-hobo-codes/#download&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;QR Code Stencil Generator&lt;/a&gt; which automatically generates thin bridges between islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by @Aloisdg : It is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://processing.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Processing&lt;/a&gt; project and it is hosted on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/golanlevin/QR_STENCILER&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;GitHub&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TiiuB.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TiiuB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;How to by F.A.T. Lab&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested it successfully on the pavement last year. The pavement should be as slick as possible, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8137" LastEditorUserId="8137" LastEditDate="2019-06-25T13:58:44.660" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T13:58:44.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6263" CreationDate="2019-06-25T10:13:59.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have personal experience, but I read about something similar some time ago (I do not remember the details of that story, could have been about food).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base idea is to mix the cement, while pumping / injecting into it compressed air. While being mixed, the air forms bubbles. Adjusting the mixing speed and the pressure and volume of the compressed air, you should be able to control the size of the bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think you cannot get &quot;arbitrarily large&quot; bubbles, because of the physical properties of the cement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T10:13:59.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6260" CreationDate="2019-06-25T10:20:59.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the hairs go out of the ferrule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea which I plan to test (without destroying a good brush just for testing purposes) is to inject some kind of glue at the base of the bristles / hairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to use a medical syringe, fill it with some glue (even oil paint should do, I suppose), and fill the base of the hairs (inside the metal &quot;clamp&quot;) with that glue. Upon hardening, everything should stay in place together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, to prevent losing the hairs as a block, I would stick some small nails through the metal, so in the end these nails would be stuck with the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ferrule goes out of the handle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just screw a screw through the ferrule into the handle. Maybe even two screws, from opposite sides. If you worry that the handle will break due to the pressure of the screws, drill some &quot;guiding&quot; hole first. The diameter of the hole should match the diameter of the &quot;core&quot; of the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, use some thin nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just glue it - see notes below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Always keep the brush with the bristles upwards (or at least diagonally upwards) - to avoid the glue sticking them together.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a glue which does not become very rigid / breakable after curing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the glue is too &quot;liquid&quot;, temporarily wrap the ferrule / handle area with adhesive tape. It will hold the glue until it cures. Remove the tape after the process finished.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2019-06-27T11:18:47.667" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T11:18:47.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6262" CreationDate="2019-06-25T11:13:53.550" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about buying some grid-shaped &lt;a href=&quot;http://locker.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Weldmesh-Sheets.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;welded wire metal mesh&lt;/a&gt; (commonly used for rabbit or chicken hutches), and using sticky tape to cover the squares you want to mask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wires would be thin enough that they wouldn't affect the scan, but strong enough to support isolated islands (much stronger than relying on tiny thin pieces of paper or card, which might break once they've been soaked in paint). More importantly, it would be quicker to make than a hand-cut stencil and you wouldn't need any expensive machines like a CNC router or 3D printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend buying a flat sheet, the stuff that comes on a roll is usually twisted and won't lie flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8151" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T11:13:53.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6263" CreationDate="2019-06-25T11:39:16.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try Orbeez / water beads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoroughly water them to make them inflate as much as possible. Then mix them into the moist cement and let the cement set for several days. The moisture retained in the orbeez should slowly evaporate through the pores of the hardened cement, leaving behind a sponge-like structure (and the shriveled, dried out Orbeez of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video of someone &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB9VcEtC3VY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mixing Orbeez into transparent epoxy resin&lt;/a&gt; (start watching at 11:00 minutes) and a closer look at the result &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i74qaednm6E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in a second video&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;trigger warning for Trypophobia&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-06-26T09:18:15.367" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T09:18:15.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6254" CreationDate="2019-06-25T14:29:46.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply, take the bird base by the two flaps which are not folded, and pull them apart as far as you can without tearing the paper. The triangular part at the top of the bird base will flatten and stretch into a square. When you fold the model back flat, you will end up with the shape from step 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T14:29:46.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6261" CreationDate="2019-06-26T16:38:59.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not great and accomplished artist, but I do spend a great deal of my time and passion drawing. Take my thoughts as you will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, I do not think there is any legitimate concern about learning to draw a certain way and then being stuck that way throughout your career, &lt;em&gt;so long as you continue to practice&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, how, and how often you study and practice are going to have the largest effects on your outcomes. If you only practice exaggerated styles, like manga, anime, or cartooning, then you are very likely to struggle with the anatomy-based styles of Western comic books. Or vice-versa. If you only draw people, then drawing animals won't simply come naturally. You can't just jump from point A to point Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's always something else to learn and practice, or ways to elevate your current skills. The biggest challenge may simply be recognizing what your current weakness is (that you wish to address) and &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; to actually address it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider this &quot;short&quot; list of drawing and drawing-related skills, and you'll begin see that there's a wealth of areas to practice and grow in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pencil control (straight lines, round circles, light vs heavy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line economy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drawing what you see (vs what you &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; you see)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using tone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light and tone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shading techniques (each technique is really a separate discipline)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Line weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perspective (there's many kinds to learn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Human anatomy (each part of the body can realistically have its own course of study)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Animal anatomy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Facial expressions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exaggerating features&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cartooning principles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defining features of the &quot;genre&quot; you're targeting (anime, comics, cartooning, animation, French animation, etc. etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Landscapes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backgrounds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Technical drawings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thumbnailing and silhouetting &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicles and machinery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Building design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Folds and drapery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clothing design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contour drawing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Negative space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Composition and layout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Constructive anatomy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caricature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concept design and the iterative process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sequential art and storytelling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll stop there, but be aware that this really is a &lt;em&gt;short&lt;/em&gt; list, and each bullet point itself has a number of sub-topics, and &lt;strong&gt;the amount of time that can be put into studying&lt;/strong&gt; each thing &lt;strong&gt;has no upper limit&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that may seem obvious, I find that the non-artists I'm exposed to are often not aware it. Drawing is often seen as something as people are either &quot;good at&quot; or &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;, but the fact is that the people that are good at art put in the time, just the same as any other skilled hobby or profession. Your favorite works of art often represent hundreds, but more likely &lt;em&gt;thousands&lt;/em&gt;, of hours of dedication to the craft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful to not get intimidated by everything that's out there! View it as opportunities, and a well that won't run dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2019-06-26T16:38:59.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6282" CreationDate="2019-06-28T05:48:32.820" Score="4" ViewCount="7217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tried cutting a glue stick into small pieces using a normal scissor and took about 10 mins or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to cut or shred glue stick into small pieces much faster, say 2 min per stick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The reason is that the shredded glue stick is going to be used in a craft work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-06-28T15:16:39.727" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T15:57:50.180" Title="Fast method to cut/shred glue stick into small pieces" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2019-06-28T06:21:03.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a sharp knife and cut chips at one end, as if sharpening a pencil. Keep cutting until you get the needed quota :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a specific (different) shape of the pieces is needed, then we need more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T06:21:03.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2019-06-28T09:39:33.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are cutting dozens, I'd wrap a bunch in tape where you are not cutting, and then cut them with a heated blade/knife. Alternatively a hacksaw or serrated breadknife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Sorry misread the post: I though they wanted short glue sticks, not shredded, so my idea is not that great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6817" LastEditDate="2019-06-28T21:55:22.637" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T21:55:22.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2019-06-28T10:02:29.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to grab Stefan's answer of bundling the stick, but also suggest that a coarse cheese grater would give consistent results and reasonably good production. Keep your fingers clear and slice away. It may also be useful to chill the glue sticks, perhaps freeze them to reduce the melting caused by friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2019-06-28T16:43:23.647" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T16:43:23.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2019-06-28T17:22:53.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try putting the glue stick in a freezer and cutting/shaving it with a knife after it cools down somewhat. The cold glue won't deform or stick to the blade so readily so you'll have a slightly easier time managing the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8178" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T17:22:53.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6288" CreationDate="2019-06-28T18:56:37.050" Score="3" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of famous people who are my heroes. I love to make portraits of them. Some of them are dead, some are alive. There is no easy way to get the appropriate permissions to draw them. I want to be a professional artist. It would be nice if I could use those portraits I made to show people what I'm capable of, so they might get interested to hire me as a portrait artist. I want to know if it's legal to use photos of (portraits of) famous people for these indirectly commercial purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8180" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T18:40:14.340" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T18:40:14.340" Title="Is it legal to make portraits of people for indirectly commercial purposes?" Tags="|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2019-06-28T19:08:47.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Place them in the freezer for several minutes, then use a mandolin-style vegetable slicer.  You can get very consistent slices that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y09AW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y09AW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8158" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T19:08:47.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6286" CreationDate="2019-06-28T20:42:06.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem lies with interpretation. If your take on a photo of a certain person (famous or not, we all have the same rights) is deviating sufficiently from the original - which is, in itself, an artistic take on it - there shouldn't be a problem (although you might want to credit the original author).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you copy these photos directly (i.e. without reinterpretation), you're copying an artistic interpretation, and that is only legal if you have the permission of the original author, or if this copy falls under fair use.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you only use these portraits to show to potential customers, it will probably be considered fair use: crediting is still legally required, but you won't get in trouble as long as you don't offer them for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artsy has a nice article about artwork copyright &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artsy.net/article/artsy-editorial-art-copyright-explained&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. An excerpt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then there is Section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976. Known&#xA;  as &lt;em&gt;fair use&lt;/em&gt;, the provision provides a legal defense to copyright&#xA;  infringement.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Put simply, that means that I admit I’ve taken work from&#xA;  other people, but I can argue that my use of that work still deserves&#xA;  protection. In the case of an artist’s image being taken without&#xA;  permission, its acceptance under fair use is contingent on four&#xA;  factors. All four inform a judge who makes the final determination of&#xA;  the fair use argument’s validity. This means that there is always a&#xA;  degree of uncertainty to what constitutes fair use.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  But the most&#xA;  important question is, are you using the image for commercial purposes&#xA;  (if so, you’ll likely be in trouble) or &lt;strong&gt;non-profit&lt;/strong&gt; and educational&#xA;  purposes (if so, you’re more likely to be in the clear)?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  It also&#xA;  depends on the nature of how you’re using the copyrighted work. &lt;strong&gt;The&#xA;  “less original” or less creative your use, the weaker your fair use&#xA;  claim&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Another important factor is the total amount of the copyrighted&#xA;  image being reproduced. The more you reproduce, the less likely you&#xA;  are to be protected by fair use. Judges will look at the extent to&#xA;  which that reproduction impacts the market and undermines the economic&#xA;  value of the author’s original.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Lastly, if the image is being&#xA;  transformed or parodied, it can also be protected under fair use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that, naturally, different laws apply in different countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T20:42:06.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-01T18:12:37.960" Score="5" ViewCount="1213" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I asked a question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/6221/alternatives-to-citadel-games-workshop-paints&quot;&gt;Alternatives to Citadel / Games Workshop Paints&lt;/a&gt;, and the feedback suggested that I could simple use tubes of Acrylic paints from local hobby type shops as an alternative for painting miniatures/figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some suggestions were to use a flow/pouring medium to thin it down a little, but I've seen that simply using water ( up to 50/50 mix ) is a very common practice when using acrylic paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question - Is water really a recomended element to thin down your paints? And if so, how would you store your mix for use in the near future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to create my own little pots like the ones that citedal / games workshop use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8061" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T19:58:12.467" Title="Mixing Acrylic Paint With Water ( And Storing It )" Tags="|acrylic-paint|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6290" CreationDate="2019-07-01T19:51:57.330" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint is a chemical with a blend of several characteristics. Two of those characteristics are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Carrying a pigment (color)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Sticking to a surface (glue)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 50/50 mix would reduce the binder (glue) in the paint to half of what it was when it came out of the tube. If you were painting on paper or a medium that absorbed the paint you might get away with 50/50. Some paint makers recommend never thinning paint more than 25% with water (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liquitex.com/us/knowledge/understanding_acrylics/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Liquitex thinning recommendation&lt;/a&gt; - not an endorsement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Think of the polymer molecules (the binder) as forming a sort of glue that holds the pigment onto the surface. When this glue, known as polymer, gets thinned by water, it loses its strength to bond. When the paint pigment is left unbound, over time it will release from the surface on which it was applied (usually canvas) and begin to flake off. &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rfasupplies.com/dont-use-water-to-thin-your-acrylics-a-review-of-acrylic-mediums/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Don't user Water to Thin Your Acrylics&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miniatures don't absorb paint so you are relying on the strength of the binder to hold the paint onto the miniature when dry. it would be best to &quot;stick&quot; to the paint maker's recommendation on using water to dilute paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little paranoid. When painting I use as little water as possible for spot thinning. When I need thinner paint for a large surface I use a painting medium to thin the paint. I don't want to do the work of painting only to have it mess up months or years down the road because I used too much water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Acrylic painting mediums can be used to thin acrylic paint in unlimited amounts &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drawandpaintforfun.com/how-to-thin-acrylic-paint/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Thin Acrylic Paint&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention creating your own little pots like the ones the Citadel workshop uses.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Adding tap water to acrylic contains microbes and minerals - this can damage the paint. If you use water and plan to store the paint it's best to use distilled water. It's safest to use a painting medium.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keys to storing paint are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Don't let it get contaminated&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Don't expose it to air.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Use clean, air tight containers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, tap water is a contaminant. Tap water contains microbes and minerals. If you add tap water to a jar of acrylic paint and store it for a few years, it will probably develop mold.  from &lt;a href=&quot;https://drawandpaintforfun.com/does-acrylic-paint-go-bad/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Does Acrylic Paint Go Bad?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked article above has good information on what makes paint go bad and how to store it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6946" LastEditorUserId="6946" LastEditDate="2019-07-01T19:58:12.467" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T19:58:12.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6294" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-07-03T07:03:00.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/metal-working&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;metal-working&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;metal-working&lt;/a&gt; for the shaping of and working with metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/metal-working&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;metal-working&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;metal-working&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:20:56.807" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:20:56.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6295" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-07-03T07:03:00.593" Score="0" Body="For queries involving the use and selection of metal as part of a crafts project. This includes questions about the cleaning, maintenance, and restoration of metals of all kinds." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:19:39.880" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:19:39.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2019-07-03T07:59:16.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Separate the works with a spacer (an art-class classmate built a box using corflute with a set of vertical 10mm balsa spacers in the corners with rounded tops to keep them separate and help guide the works in.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't drive long distances over long bumpy roads (a friend did that and her landscape pastels were ruined.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hairspray is PH neutral: even at art class they recommend hair spray—so err on the side of caution and only buy pH neutral fixative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cover work with glass—but leave a space between the glass and card so any excess powder can fall from the work without gathering visibly in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use enough 'tooth' to hold the pastel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T08:03:59.720" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T08:03:59.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6286" CreationDate="2019-07-03T08:13:37.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the answer is to search for photos and filter for search results that have been tagged with Creative Commons usage rights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Google, try Images &gt; Tools &gt; Usage Rights. You'll see four options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T08:13:37.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6252" CreationDate="2019-07-06T06:13:32.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to learn how to mix complex colours is trial-and-error (in my opinion) - you see how colours turn out when you mix them while painting. Keep in mind that acrylic does not support mixing as well as oil, tempera, watercolours and the like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also analyse colours digitally - most graphic applications show what is the value of each primary colour a particular colour consists of. It sounds like what you are looking for but I don't think it will actually be very useful in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8191" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-06T07:49:49.640" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T07:49:49.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6301" CreationDate="2019-07-06T21:56:29.040" Score="2" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to add a slot to the table plate of my Harbor Freight (Central Machinery) ½ ton arbor press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's obviously cast iron, but the surface is polished, so I'm not sure of its exact composition or if the surface is tough and it has a softer interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any carbide end mills, but I have some surplus HSS mills I don't mind destroying in this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8193" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-07T09:21:24.877" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T09:21:24.877" Title="Milling an additional slot in an arbor press table plate?" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6299" CreationDate="2019-07-07T01:20:04.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is grey cast iron ( most probable) it will cut like tough wood- no special tools at all. If nodular of malleable cast irons it will be slightly more difficult to machine ( more ductile , similar to ordinary carbon steel) but no special tools. It should not be white iron as that is brittle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T01:20:04.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6299" CreationDate="2019-07-07T01:22:23.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with cast iron in the process of milling and lathe turning (minimal, but valid reference) is that cast iron will cut nicely with ordinary HSS tools. The swarf will be granular, not long streams of ribbon and the surface will be moderately smooth, depending on your feed and speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few references on the 'net suggest that it is &quot;self-cooling&quot; due to graphite in the iron. Another few references also suggest that use of coolant will create abrasive mud which will dull the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't be destroying your tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T01:22:23.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-08T00:21:48.103" Score="6" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a filmmaker who would like to recreate a makeup effect similar to what is shown in the image below. I want to know the best techniques to turn the skin into a surface for a watercolor painting. The more details, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The performer(s) with this makeup will then act and dance in a movie, so the makeup art needs to be stable under heat, sweat and movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photographer is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alexanderkhokhlov.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alexander Khokhlov&lt;/a&gt;, and the makeup artist is Valeria Kutsan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bmaI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bmaI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alexander Khokhlov, photographer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8196" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-07-11T05:36:57.963" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T11:26:45.073" Title="What make-up techniques could be used to achieve the watercolor effect shown in this image?" Tags="|makeup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2019-07-08T19:05:11.757" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;applying egg white can help, if you are looking for a cheap fixative. It leaves a shining effect as well once dried, although I would not suggest this for professional piece of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8199" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T19:05:11.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4201" CreationDate="2019-07-09T20:46:00.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like there was already an answer here, but there are a lot of variables not considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to send out your blades for heat-treatment, then any steel with medium carbide volume is going to be fine. These include the simple carbon steels, from 1070-1095, O1, A2 as well as stainless steels like AEB-L (Sandvik 13c26), CPM-154, S35VN. Note that CPM-154 and S35VN are both higher carbide volume, but made with a powdered metallurgy process, which reduces the disadvantages of high carbide volume. I would avoid the super wear-resistant or ultra-tough steels, as they are more specialized and you've asked about general use knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most people who don't want to maintain carbon steel, I'd recommend CPM-154 or S35VN. If you're going to the trouble to MAKE a knife, don't start with performance and market-limiting blade steels like the 420 series or 440C. Yes, you can make a very good knife with them, but you're starting with an unnecessary disadvantage only to save a few dollars in material. Most of the cost of a custom knife is labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For carbon steels, I'd recommend 1084 if heat-treating at home for stock-removal blades, and 80CrV2 if forging at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The poster below makes some good points - I answered with steels available in North America. Steels available in Europe and elsewhere will be different. I believe RWL34 is very similar to CPM-154 (or is it 154CM? powered or not is the difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've spent months on ocean-going ships with my 154CM blades (that I made), and no corrosion problems. Of course I wasn't processing fish in the Bering sea...  A small amount of maintenance will go a long way.  Just keep it clean and put it away dry. If corrosion-resistance is a priority, be sure to use (or specify) the lower tempering range, not the secondary higher range, which reduces corrosion-resistance in many high-alloy steels. Nitrogen-heavy steels win in this category, but some (like H1) are not hardened in the traditional manner, and may be harder to manage for the home craftsperson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastEditorUserId="8203" LastEditDate="2019-08-15T01:31:47.297" LastActivityDate="2019-08-15T01:31:47.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2019-07-13T13:19:54.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need to cut a lot of ribbon, you can also invest in a &quot;hot wire&quot; cutter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expensive ($300): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp9E5tkKTFg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp9E5tkKTFg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Budget ($30): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oka_ERvOuYU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oka_ERvOuYU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the expensive one, it takes a little practice, but works as shown in the video. I don't have any experience with the cheaper one (some of the ribbon I cut was too wide for it, so I've never tried it). Just google either product if you want one - the cheaper product in particular can be found online in various craft stores in most countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For low quantities, sealing with a flame as suggested elsewhere here also works, but takes a bit more time and practice to get right (I tended to melt the ends unevenly on wide ribbons, so gave up!). Have not tried nail polish or glue. Here's another video demonstration if you want to try either of those:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTit6tNWkx4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTit6tNWkx4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised there's not otherwise a more automated product, or anything &quot;hot wire&quot; that does anything other than a straight cut (i.e. a pinking cut). We put a lot of ribbon through a ribbon printer (hundreds at a time), and spend hours having to cut it all manually once printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8217" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T13:19:54.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6312" CreationDate="2019-07-15T00:03:01.020" Score="4" ViewCount="3244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a maxi skirt that goes above my waist, and I still have to wear heels just to get by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to shorten it. However, it has a hem at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best way to shorten this maxi shirt to proper length without removing the hem?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the skirt in question - notice the pink hem that decorates the edges: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9araL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9araL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T16:32:39.320" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T16:42:08.387" Title="How to shorten a maxi skirt while keeping the bottom hem?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6311" CreationDate="2019-07-15T11:57:09.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem is getting a straight hem line. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?channel=trow&amp;amp;q=skirt%20hem%20length%20marker&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;safe=active&amp;amp;client=firefox-b-d&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwjSn5L6wbbjAhXL_aQKHQ_9CUEQsAR6BAgFEAE&amp;amp;biw=1536&amp;amp;bih=859&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;skirt hem markers&lt;/a&gt; designed specially for this purpose. They have a little chamber with powdered chalk in it and a little bag bellow with which you blow a fine line of chalk onto the skirt.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kfIMU.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kfIMU.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have one of these, you either need a sewing bust (set to your corect proportions) or the help of a second person. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you need some tool to measure the length of your skirt. A rigid ruler works fine, but in my experience something that can stand upright and has an adjustable height works great, like a mini camera tripod. You can put a water-soluble fabric marker on top to easily mark the desired length.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSYEW.jpg&quot; height=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 basic ways to shorten the skirt: either cut the original hem off and sew a new one instead or pleat the fabric to create a &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/tutorial-how-to-sew-a-blind-hem&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blind hem&lt;/a&gt; without cutting. If you don't want to sew at all, you can create a blind hem with fabric glue instead, but I've made the experience that this glue dissolves in the washing machine (despite all claims by the manufacturer) or stays visible even after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're ok with cutting the fabric, follow these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear the skirt and the kind of footwear you like to wear with it (can be barefood, too)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand on some kind of podest, stool, crate or bucket. You need to let the entire length of fabric hang loosely without it touching the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this position, determine how long you'd like the skirt to be. Mark the position with water-soluble pen, chalk or a needle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a sewing bust, put the skirt on it and set it on the podest. (If you don't have one, ignore this step and let a second person help you with the next steps.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the distance between the ground and the mark. If you have a tool to help you, set it's height to this distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the ruler / tool around the skirt and create marks on the way until you marked all around. Be sure &lt;strong&gt;not to pull the fabric&lt;/strong&gt; while marking the hem line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's always a good idea to pin the skirt to the new length and wear it again to see if you measured correctly before cutting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget to &lt;strong&gt;add seam allowance&lt;/strong&gt; to hem the skirt! If there is not enough length for allowance, consider the blind hem solution instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the skirt at &lt;em&gt;the mark + seam allowance&lt;/em&gt; and sew a new hem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you like the pink detail on the original hem, you can add it as a trim line by cleaning up (hemming) the cut edge and sewing it behind the hem you created (just a few millimeter lower so it peeks out under the hem line). Maybe it's just a pink cord you can remove from the original hem and apply to the new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer the blind hem, you'll have to adapt the measuring process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow steps 1 - 3 above (mark the desired length of the skirt in one spot).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the width of the original hem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust your marking tool to mark the skirt at &lt;em&gt;desired length - original hem width&lt;/em&gt; (shorter than the first mark) and mark all around the skirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sew the seam line of the original hem to the mark you created, right sides together. Fold the rest of the fabric up and sew a blind hem:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AuCmA.png&quot; height=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black line is your skirt, the loop is the original hem, the blue line is your mark and the green line is the blind stitch. First pin the seam of the original hem to your mark and sew right over the seam. Then iron then fabric up to reveal the original seam. Actually sewing the blind hem requires some more folding. You want to sew mainly on the excess fabric and only tiny stitches through the upper part of your skirt.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/tutorial-how-to-sew-a-blind-hem&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic tutorial for blind hem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/jdKe9crSHac&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sew blind hem with sewing machine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/mp-HcRTZQZ0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sew blind hem by hand&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several pitfalls that await you in the process of measuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash, iron and/or hang the skirt before measuring. Cotton shrinks when first washed, so you want it to shrink before you shorten it. Wrinkles pull parts of the fabric together, which might result in an uneven hemline. If you cannot iron the skirt, let it hang freely from a sewing bust or a coat hanger to let the fabric reach it's natural form and length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure from the ground up, not from the waist down. Your body is more flat in the front and more rounded at the sides and backside. Rounded parts require more fabric to reach the same length. If you measure the same length from waistline to hemline all the way around, you and up with a skirt that's too short in the back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear the skirt while marking the new hem line.  If you measure while the skirt hangs on a cloth hanger, the hem will look different once you wear it (because of the shape of your body). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear the shoes you prefer to wear while measuring. Wearing high heels requires a little more length in the back, while wearing flat shoes shortens the back line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand on a podest so the fabric hangs free all around you. If some of the fabric lies on the ground, it props the parts above it up, while other parts hang down lower. This results in an uneven hemline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't pull the fabric while marking it. The professional skirt hem markers blow powdered chalk onto the skirt to mark it without touching it. If you don't have one of them, you must be very careful not to pull the fabric while putting a needle in or drawing a line with chalk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T16:42:08.387" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T16:42:08.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6316" CreationDate="2019-07-16T00:07:24.520" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Around here, polyester resin for arts and crafts is usually sold under the name &quot;Crystal Polyester Resin&quot;, because of its colorlessness. In automotive-paint/nautical shops there are other polyester resins available, usually for the purpose of boat and automotive repairs, which might be slightly colored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone had experience working with them for encapsulating, for example, insects and flowers, and if despite the color they are transparent enough so that you can clearly see what's inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8224" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T18:10:38.423" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T18:10:38.423" Title="Does boat polyester resin works well for insect/flower encapsulating?" Tags="|material-selection|preservation|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6315" CreationDate="2019-07-16T07:19:25.640" Score="0" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm recently learning font design and typography.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I found that even a same font style can have two font versions: joined and unjoined. I'd tried to google it, but got no explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the different between those fonts? How do I use them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would greatly appreciate it if anyone can help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8225" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T10:52:27.853" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T10:57:27.927" Title="What are joined and unjoined fonts?" Tags="|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6314" CreationDate="2019-07-16T10:51:17.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A 'joined' font may refer to a type of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Script_typeface&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;script typeface&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, where all characters of a word are connected by single lines. Most so-called 'handwriting' fonts make use of these glyphs. And some fonts, such as your example, may offer an additional isolated glyph version, like this font: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8UOqZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8UOqZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Debbie Hepplewhite font, joined and unjoined&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the name 'script' implies, it is derived from handwriting, and can still generally be seen in writing exercises in primary schools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, &lt;strong&gt;those terms might be referring to fonts that offer versions with and without ligatures&lt;/strong&gt;, the usually curvy lines that connect certain sets of characters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxCvG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gxCvG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of several ligatures. Picture via Wikipedia, Public Domain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In writing and typography, a ligature occurs where two or more&#xA;  graphemes or letters are joined as a single glyph.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Typographic_ligature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like script typeface, ligatures derive from handwriting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A famous common example is the ampersand &lt;code&gt;&amp;amp;&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Usage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you come across a font with different character sets, they are offered as separate fonts (under the same family name, sometimes archived together in &lt;em&gt;.rar&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;.zip&lt;/em&gt;, or &lt;em&gt;.7z&lt;/em&gt; files, which have to be unpacked first).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You install the fonts, and they will show up in your editing programs as separate fonts (e.g., using the example above, the fonts will show up like &quot;Debbie Hepplewhite Print&quot; and &quot;Debbie Hepplewhite Joinit&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any other questions, let me know, and I will update my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T10:57:27.927" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T10:57:27.927" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6313" CreationDate="2019-07-16T12:17:38.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I have no first-hand experience with industrial resins (like boat resin), but I used craft resin (like crystal epoxy resin) several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 aspects to keep in mind when choosing your resin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The properties of the resin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your own health&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Material properties&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For pouring and encasing objects in resin, you usually want a crystal clear resin with a low viscosity (very thin), to avoid air bubbles in the cast. To cover a big object like a boat in resin as a protective layer, the color is less important, but you want a thicker resin so it doesn't drip off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with pouring thick, viscous resins is that it's almost impossible to remove all the air bubbles without a vacuum or pressure chamber. This leaves you with a cloudy result (because of micro air bubbles) or with very annoying bubbles in tight spaces (like the petals of a flower). It can also displace light objects while being poured on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellowish color usually intensifies over time. You end up with something looking like amber. If that's what you're looking for, go for it, but it makes things harder to see inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, every kind of resin has a minimal and maximal pouring thickness. If you pour less, it takes forever to cure or doesn't cure at all. If you pour more, the material heats up to a boil and bubbles away (because of the chemical reaction). Many resins have a minimal thickness of 0, but some industrial resins need several millimeters thickness and your cast may be too small for it. Have a look at the packaging to get more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Health Considerations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most polyester resins stink to hell and you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; shouldn't inhale the fumes. The packages usually instruct you to only use it in very well ventilated areas and &lt;em&gt;additionally&lt;/em&gt; wear a mask with a filter (not the simple dust mask but a real filter mask). Don't forget goggles and gloves*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy resin doesn't stink much at all, but you shouldn't directly inhale the fumes either. An open window, goggles and gloves* are sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forego the gloves, resins can cause allergic reactions that can manifest several hours after skin contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*: Depending on the resin you use, you need gloves of different materials. I use nitrile gloves for epoxy resin, but I don't know for sure if they're safe for polyester resin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If gloves are categorized as &quot;safe&quot; for certain chemicals, they resist those chemicals for a minimum of 8 hours. You should always use fresh gloves because after those 8 hours chemicals permeate the gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T12:17:38.447" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6318" CreationDate="2019-07-16T12:22:16.183" Score="1" ViewCount="2325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started to learn to draw comics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fine arts shop recommend me a Blue Faber Castell Polychromos pencil for sketch (the lines and geometrics figures that we start first before we can draw the face or the body). But I can not erase it with the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a blue pencil for sketch, and I want to erase it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you recommend me for sketching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that I have to mention: &quot;I'm not asking about brands&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastEditorDisplayName="user24" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T17:59:28.557" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T17:54:33.940" Title="Erasable blue pencils for sketching?" Tags="|colored-pencils|sketching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6317" CreationDate="2019-07-17T05:25:48.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that colour pencils are not erasable. There are ones that are erasable, and you can find them searching on Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing here is &quot;colour pencils are not erasable&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About using colour pencils on sketching, it is something that people do to avoid the lines being detected by photocopiers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastEditorUserId="1882" LastEditDate="2019-07-17T13:07:26.380" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T13:07:26.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6317" CreationDate="2019-07-18T17:56:09.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certain companies that market &lt;strong&gt;&quot;erasable&quot; colored pencils&lt;/strong&gt;, but I have seen plenty artists use them that find that they still don't erase perfectly or that they still smudge slightly while erasing. There's no perfect solution, due to the nature of pigments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is looking at &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; you need to have a blue pencil for sketching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why blue?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically, certain shades of &quot;non-photo blue&quot; were used because photocopiers wouldn't pick them up, so as you'd layer your final lines and lineart on top of the blue undersketch, the blue wouldn't show up in your copy. This has led to what is, in my opinion, a bit of an obsolete tradition of using blue for undersketches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why obsolete? Because every modern scanner I've used in the past 15 years has had no problems picking up the non-photo blue pigments. The color you use is irrelevant, because Photoshop and GIMP can easily remove whatever color you use. You can even use multiple colors, ending with your grey/black final lines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why erasable?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you're practicing, you're going to want to erase a lot if you're making large mistakes, but needing to have a highly-erasable undersketch might indicate that you could improve your workflow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, many artists will do their initial messy sketches as thumbnails or smaller-scale pictures, in order to figure out proportions, layout and composition. Using simple graphite pencils, it's easy to erase and experiment. Alternatively, if your thumbnails are small enough, mistakes can be &quot;discarded&quot; by simply starting a new thumbnail next to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the design and layout is decided, you would then pull out the pencil, colored or otherwise, that you'd use for the undersketch. Since you're generally just up-scaling your thumbnails, there's less mistakes in positioning lines and thus a lower need to erase them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Okay, use one anyway!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, (non-photo) blue pencils still work great for many artists! There's nothing wrong with it. But if the &quot;erasable&quot; types, like Prismacolor's Col-Erase line, are still too difficult to work with, there are two more things to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice line control. You could be making your lines darker than necessary. This is both a physical and mental issue. The physical part is gaining the fine motor control to make light enough lines. The mental part is being okay with not having dark, clear lines. Both require practice and training to overcome. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a different &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/486/24&quot;&gt;type of eraser (link)&lt;/a&gt;. Some types of erasers simply don't work well for certain media.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T17:56:09.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6321" CreationDate="2019-07-19T17:11:47.043" Score="6" ViewCount="9614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a painting that was done on plywood. The wood is a quarter inch thick and 3 by 4 feet in size. It is not framed, and I don’t want to frame it. I’m hanging it in my living room on a plaster wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to put anchors in the wall, but I’m not sure how to secure the painting to the wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking about clips that would go on the top and bottom, and attaching wires to those clips. I want the hardware to be as minimal as possible to not interfere with the painting’s image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any suggestions for hardware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="717" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-20T12:30:36.637" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T22:21:47.953" Title="How to hang a painting on plywood on the wall?" Tags="|painting|preservation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6320" CreationDate="2019-07-20T13:07:17.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind the painting hanging a couple of millimeters from the wall, you could glue a wooden board to the backside of the painting (using wood glue (PVA), fortified with very shallow screws if possible, if only for the drying process), and let it hang from the anchors.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want no space between the painting and the wall once the painting's been hung, one option would be to make very shallow depressions in the backside using a router, which you can use to hang the painting from. For this method, I would advise using L-shaped screw hooks, as their heads can easily penetrate the wood a little, fixing it in place, and keeping the painting from falling over.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This method is really dependent on the type and quality of wood, though. I suggest trying out the routing on another or leftover piece of plywood from the same batch.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-07-20T13:07:17.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-20T14:12:45.733" Score="3" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the body of the Pilot Precise V5 RT (retractable rollerball) pens.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My question: has anyone found another manufacturer's refill cartridges that fit in that pen, or if anyone's had luck refilling an existing cartridge with different ink (fountain pen ink, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Apologies if I was unclear. I love the body of the pen but I'd like different ink colors (and possibly different ink consistencies) outside of what Pilot offers. My question: Are their any other manufacturer's refills that fit the Pilot Precise V5 RT body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8234" LastEditorUserId="8234" LastEditDate="2019-07-29T12:10:09.927" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T02:06:43.243" Title="Pilot Precise V5 RT refill alternatives" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-20T22:59:43.887" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rope that came with this hat is irritating to wear with the hat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5a6zg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5a6zg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hat with strap&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like something softer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-21T06:45:16.470" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T14:51:27.257" Title="Replace hat strap with something softer" Tags="|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-07-22T19:55:27.893" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6323" CreationDate="2019-07-22T14:51:27.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to decide is whether you want softer cord or something flat? It seems to thread through holes quite easily so it's just a matter of finding soft cord, not too thick, if you just want a cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something flat and soft, threading a neoprene glasses strap onto the existing cord (or two short lengths or cord with stop knots) should work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T14:51:27.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6317" CreationDate="2019-07-22T17:54:33.940" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try Frixion erasable pens - they're not perfect; you can't easily draw on an area you previously erased, and the colors aren't usually as vivid as with other kinds of inks, but it's the best blend of color and erasability I've found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B009QYH644&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Retractable-Erasable-Assorted-Disappear/dp/B009QYH644/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6879" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T17:54:33.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-22T20:54:20.513" Score="5" ViewCount="915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small clear acrylic plastic container, roughly spherical and about 1.5 cubic inches in volume, with a 1/4-inch wall and thinning to about 2mm at the top edge (near the 1-inch diameter lip). I want to put some objects in it and fill it with clear resin and a small amount of tinting (glow-in-the-dark powder) so that the objects and glow can be seen through the clear container. What resin or other substance (silicone, etc.) can I use for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some concerns, in rough order of importance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Shrinkage. I want the resin to entirely fill the container once it has cured, with no gaps. If it shrinks and pulls away from the edges this would be bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Crazing or other chemical reactions with acrylic. I have heard that polyester resin (or maybe just the hardening catalyst?) reacts with acrylic plastic to cause crazing (tiny cracks) on the acrylic surface. This would be bad in my application. I am not sure if epoxy or other resins have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Ultraviolet transparency. Ideally I would like the resin to  be completely transparent to ultraviolet, although some translucency (browning?) may be OK. (The glow-in-the-dark powder needs to charge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Transparency. I would like it to be as clear as practical. It is going to become somewhat translucent when I add the glow-in-the dark powder, so I would prefer to at least start fairly clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate suggestions as to a resin or process that could satisfy these criteria. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8236" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-23T08:47:59.523" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T21:24:48.403" Title="Transparent resin to fill small acrylic plastic container?" Tags="|material-selection|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-23T15:23:16.297" Score="5" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually work with ink and watercolor on mylar (paper used by architects). I tried to use oil paint on mylar and the effect is real nice. Do I have to protect the finished painting with a varnish or a fixative, is it crucial?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8237" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T08:21:53.603" Title="Protection for oil painting on mylar?" Tags="|preservation|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6327" CreationDate="2019-07-26T08:21:53.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By Mylar I assume you mean drafting &lt;em&gt;film&lt;/em&gt; (usually a (semi) transparent type of &lt;em&gt;BoPET&lt;/em&gt; (biaxially-oriented polyethylene terephthalate)), rather than drafting &lt;em&gt;paper&lt;/em&gt; (or &lt;em&gt;vellum&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Drafting film generally is coated, although the uncoated version is preferred for archival purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drafting film, especially the more common coated version, does not absorb the oil in oil paints. Along with the high flexibility of the sheets, this presents a great risk to both the drying process and adhesive support of oil paints.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;This means that, apart from the protection it offers the paint film itself, varnishing or fixating alone will do very little to preserve the painting on mylar.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Moreover, covering the work with a coating can effectually enclose the complete painting, making it airtight, and, unless the paint is truly cured, this might cause increased deterioration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things you can do to increase their integrity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using very fine sandpaper, slightly rough up the front surface (both surfaces, in case you want to mount the sheet);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ground it with a little (diluted) gesso;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use only thin layers of (diluted) oil paint;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it dry sufficiently in a stable environment;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount it to a rigid surface;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame it behind (or between) glass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When mounting, you have to make sure no blistering occurs. You can use acrylic gel to cover the entire surface, smooth it out by hand, and let it rest for a few hours, while applying equal pressure. &#xA;You can also try double-sided adhesive sheets, working very carefully from one side of the sheet to the opposite.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;More info on mounting in the comments &lt;a href=&quot;https://dbclemons.wordpress.com/2009/01/24/painting-on-drafting-film-mylar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A really nice overview of working with paints on Mylar can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://dbclemons.weebly.com/drafting-film.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T08:21:53.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6332" CreationDate="2019-07-27T06:03:11.963" Score="-1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a basic sewing machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not need any &amp;quot;bells or whistles.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was in a sewing machine shop and they showed me some Brother machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheapest was around $500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not need 26 varieties of stitches and able to store programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my wishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Able to wind the bobbin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be able to stitch heavier fabrics like denim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use generic items such as bobbins, needles, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T10:21:54.147" Title="Basic sewing machine" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-07-27T16:02:20.967" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6331" CreationDate="2019-07-27T10:21:54.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our local Craigslist has dozens of sewing machines, many under one hundred US dollars. Even the lowest cost one that appeared in my search has seventeen different stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The features you require are likely to be found on most of these used machines, although the heavy fabric requirement could mean you have to be more focused with your research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yard sales and flea markets will also have the occasional sewing machine. I frequent a local flea market on a regular basis and have seen a couple &quot;old-school&quot; sewing machines in good condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T10:21:54.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6339" CreationDate="2019-07-27T20:59:01.957" Score="3" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a number of pewter goblets (by Royal Selangor) in the form of various characters from Lord of the Rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, Gimli recently fell from a first-floor (US - second-floor) window into a hedge. The landing was soft enough that the pewter hasn't dented or deformed; but it has gained a roughly 10-degree bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://uk.royalselangor.com/gimli-goblet-the-lord-of-the-rings.html?___store=uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is what the goblet should look like&lt;/a&gt; (Royal Selangor's site). Attached are pictures of how the goblet is now. I believe the bend is most likely in the stem (which is styled as Gimli's beard), possibly near the bottom around where I have taken the close-up photo, since the metal seems perhaps slightly to have flattened there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dODM4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dODM4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bent goblet, side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDknF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDknF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of possible bend location&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to bend the goblet back into shape. Is this something I'm likely to be able to do myself, and if so, how would I go about it? I don't have any specialist metalworking tools, just a general purpose DIY toolkit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8249" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T21:45:02.707" Title="How to repair bend in pewter goblet stem" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-27T22:25:14.067" Score="5" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would I build a shell of an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraboloid#Elliptic_paraboloid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;elliptic paraboloid&lt;/a&gt; as accurately as possible (in terms of its mathematical properties (all parallel rays end up in its focal point)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably it should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made out of a material which is easy to process (like cardboard/paper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without the use of expensive tools etc. (like 3D printing, milling, ...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8250" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T00:53:25.807" Title="Building an elliptic paraboloid" Tags="|material-selection|paper|tool-selection|medium-selection|cardboard|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6334" CreationDate="2019-07-28T00:55:56.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the accuracy you require for your shape, you can certainly use cardboard to create the reflector. If you don't require it to be a reflector, it gets easier!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that the shape is a three dimensional revolution of a two dimensional curve. One will have to presume that you can create the curve on cardboard using the formula of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the curve from cardboard, then slice it in half vertically, removing a bit more from the center vertical cut line. With a sufficient number of these half-parabolas, glue them standing vertically on a suitable base (cardboard!) with all the center cuts pointing inward. The reason you remove a bit at the center cut line is that the thickness of the cardboard would otherwise prevent optimum alignment of each curved piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for example, you chose to use eight pieces of 6 mm cardboard, you'd have an octagon at the center with each face/edge of the octagon being 6 mm long. As you increase the number of &quot;fins,&quot; the polygon in the center becomes larger and has to have that many more faces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also increase the number of fins by cutting more away from the center cut and expanding the placement of that cut outward from the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have the skeleton/backbone/structure created, you can apply a surface treatment to the cardboard. This could be as simple as paper sheets glued to the cardboard edges. If a reflector is your goal, mylar film carefully stretched to the fins may provide the surface needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could create the surface treatment by gluing cardboard between the fins, keeping it below the level of the cuts. Apply a layer of waterproofing such as paint or epoxy or similar and then slather on a light coat of wallboard compound. Once dry, you can sand a smooth shape to the surface to get even better results. I'm not sure how you'd get an optically reflective surface on wallboard compound, but it would provide a smoother surface for a mylar covering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because one word is worth one one-thousandth of a picture, I'm hopeful the attached image will be useful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h19r5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h19r5.png&quot; alt=&quot;parabolic cardboard project&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Using a thinner material will allow more &quot;fins&quot; with smaller gaps and reduce the interpolation referenced in the comment section. Perhaps a primary support of cardboard with intermediate segments constructed of heavy paper with interspersed segments of ordinary paper will provide higher resolution with the compromise of being more difficult to construct!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another solution, perhaps easier to construct. Consider to rotate the planes of cardboard from parallel to the axis of rotation to perpendicular to it. Solve the equation for x and make a series of circles in cardboard based on the y-thickness of the material. Thicker cardboard means lower resolution, fewer sheets to cut, thinner means higher resolution, even to the level of paper thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ease of construction comes into play because you need only to stack the sheets. You can make a negative or a positive form by using the holes or the cut-out portions. Alignment can be accomplished with a common location (the center of the cut-out circles) or a pair of holes outside of the cut-out circles, then pushing dowels through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T11:00:43.137" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T11:00:43.137" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6320" CreationDate="2019-07-28T06:08:36.207" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have some power tools, you can make a very thin &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;French cleat&lt;/a&gt;.  The image below shows one designed to hold a heavy cabinet.  The two mating pieces are cut at an angle, typically 45°, and the piece on the wall captures the piece on the back of what's to be mounted.  The item just slides on top and is held by gravity (easy on and off; no tough aligning of anchors or capturing wire).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TIYwC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TIYwC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image by Tenbergen, courtesy Wikipedia&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your painting isn't very heavy, and the cleat would be long (you can make it almost full length, so it looks like the painting is floating a tiny distance from the wall).  It would be attached to the wall at many spots, so the load will be very spread out.  The cleat attached to the painting can be held with glue; it's a large surface area and not much weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even 1/4&quot; material would work for your painting if you have the means to work with something that thin; 3/8&quot; material might be easier to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleat goes near the top of the painting.  Glue a narrow strip of the same material near the bottom of the painting, or a few scraps near the bottom corners, to act as a spacer so the painting hangs a uniform distance from the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T06:08:36.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6322" CreationDate="2019-07-28T06:45:01.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't clear what your objective is, whether you're trying to achieve a different writing result, or it's just that you've only found the complete pens for sale and want a way to reuse the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget trying to refill rollerball cartridges.  They are a complicated system designed to work together.  The ink needs to be just the right viscosity and other characteristics to be properly dispensed at a certain rate, and then dry quickly without spreading (and it's different from other kinds of inks).  Also, the rollerball tip wears with use.  If it isn't designed with the right long-lasting materials to be refillable, it will (hopefully) last just long enough to ensure you can use up the ink in the cartridge before it starts blobbing or leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cartridge is similar in size and shape to some other ones.  The writing experience and color characteristics will be different for different brands.  If you are looking for that difference, you can probably find some other refills that will fit.  However, Pilot does sell refills.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://pilotpen.us/brands/precise/precise-v5-v7-rt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;listing&lt;/a&gt; on Pilot's web site gives the refill number.  Pilot makes nine ink colors and two point sizes for that pen. They should be available from online retailers and office supply stores.  I went on Amazon and searched &quot;pilot precise v5 refills&quot;, and there was a good selection.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, though, that in small quantities, you will pay almost as much for the refills as buying the whole pens in a 12-pack.  Buying refills by the dozen will save you about half the cost of the whole pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-07-29T22:54:09.707" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T22:54:09.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6263" CreationDate="2019-07-28T17:43:58.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question, probably already overtaken by events, but I'll toss in a couple of other ideas in case anyone else has a similar need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tiny holes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Aircrete, or foamed concrete, is concrete that's been greatly expanded with bubbles of gas.  The holes are tiny, but there's enough of them to expand the concrete to 5 to 7 times its volume (it's so light, it floats on water, but it's actually very strong and is used in construction to replace regular concrete).  There's tons of information online if you search &amp;quot;aircrete&amp;quot;.  It's typically made either by blending soap foam into the concrete, or adding a little aluminum power to the concrete (that reacts with the concrete to produce gas).  To give you an idea of what's involved, here's a video of a guy who made the soap foamer out of cheap plumbing supplies, mixed the aircrete, and then cast it into things like bricks: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSLJCPR1Prw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSLJCPR1Prw&lt;/a&gt; (there are a lot of such videos on YouTube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Visible holes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If the objective is something that resembles a coarse sponge, you can make it by coating a sponge.  There are very coarse sponges that resemble sea sponges, often sold as bath sponges or for washing cars.  They can be really cheap sponges, they just provide the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UioOv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UioOv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix up fairly thin cement (usually just Portland cement and water).  Immerse the sponge and squeeze and release it until it has absorbed the cement throughout.  Then shake out the excess so it looks like a cement colored version of the sponge, without cement filling the holes.  Put it in a container that will hold in the humidity and let it cure for a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Big holes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you need big holes, you need to be careful about how you use the resulting concrete because you are likely to get some really thin walls between the holes that have no strength.  But a good approach to making it is to mix into the concrete some balls the appropriate size made of a material that will disappear once the concrete has set.  Elmy's suggestion of water beads is an example.  If you don't want any remnants, like dried beads, here's an untested idea to try (I don't know how this material will behave in concrete).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need some kind of mold for balls of the desired size (hobby mold or make your own Oogoo mold from something the right size).  The material for the balls is what is used for making a homemade version of &amp;quot;Canned Heat&amp;quot; (gelled alcohol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of different recipes for gelled fuel.  The version here is made from calcium carbonate (egg shells, chalk, powder, or antacids with an extra step), vinegar, and alcohol.  There are a lot of Google links (try &amp;quot;diy gelled alcohol&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;diy sterno&amp;quot;); here's one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.survivopedia.com/diy-gel-fuel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.survivopedia.com/diy-gel-fuel/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic steps are getting the calcium carbonate into a powder, dissolving it in vinegar, filtering, boiling to reduce the volume (calcium acetate solution), then adding alcohol.  It turns into a gel and then, with the right ratio of ingredients, into a solid.  A tiny amount of calcium acetate forms a matrix that holds the alcohol and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it sets up in a mold, it holds the shape.  Left exposed to air, the alcohol and water evaporate (or get absorbed by the concrete), leaving a miniscule residue of calcium acetate wisps.  And that's water soluble, so any that's visible will dissolve and disappear if exposed to water, leaving nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;  I just stumbled across another clever method that I'll add.  Use a coarse grater to grate Styrofoam into little beads.  Mix a substantial amount of the beads into the cement.  This is sometimes used as a method to make concrete lighter in weight, and you can find lots of online videos covering recipes and procedures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's the twist: before the cement is fully cured, wash and abrade the surface similar to how you make exposed aggregate.  This will expose surface beads of Styrofoam.  Then, when the cement is hardened, brush the surface with acetone.  The exposed styrofoam beads will disappear, leaving lots of holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-10-09T05:11:53.310" LastActivityDate="2021-10-09T05:11:53.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6333" CreationDate="2019-07-28T21:45:02.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very likely it can just be straightened with no additional treatment. Tin strain hardens ( cold works) very slowly compared to most metals and will stress relieve at room temperature.  According to old references &quot;pewter&quot; ( a k a - Britannia metal ) is not pure tin but contains 7% antimony and 2% copper. But because this is apparently a newer product, one is not sure what the composition is ( I have seen zinc and aluminum novelties called &quot;pewter&quot;). I suggest straightening it, if it cracks it is unlikely to be tin/pewter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T21:45:02.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6200" CreationDate="2019-07-28T23:19:14.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting resins have very different characteristics, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;virtually no shrinkage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no flowing once cured&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hardness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stable color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crystal clarity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some don't put out much heat during cure, so they can be used in thin thermoplastic molds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a long list of differences, and hot glue basically sucks at those characteristics.  If you need the characteristics of resin, Elmy's right, hot glue probably wouldn't be a great choice.  That said, &quot;it's a big world out there&quot;; not all casting requires those characteristics.  Also, if you are aware of hot glue's shortcomings you can often compensate for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The question mentions a &quot;detective pikachu&quot; mold tray.  I don't know if there is only one example of that on the market, but regardless of the other casting material characteristics and the potential quality of the results, you need to know what the mold is made of.  If it is silicone, you can cast almost anything in it.  But some molds are made of a thermoplastic, and some are very thin.  They're safe for casting materials that stay relatively cool, but hot glue might melt or distort the mold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large, solid castings of hot glue will suffer from the effects of shrinkage. And as Elmy describes, even small castings can be affected if the mold isn't suited to the task.  But if that is the only issue affecting your requirement, there are many ways to minimize that.  Chris H's suggestion of coating the mold with a layer of hot glue, then dealing with the filler is a common solution.  There are many variations. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build up a layer at a time until it's filled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix a non-shrinking material with the glue and fill with that. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspend a non-shrinking filler piece to fill most of the cavity, and fill between it and the outer shell with hot glue. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave it hollow after building up enough layers for the needed strength.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is an entire arts and crafts industry built around melting embossing powder or hot glue in a pot and casting with it.  Embossing powder has much better characteristics than hot glue, but it's also much more expensive.  Hot glue is still good enough for a lot of purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is important to heat the material to the proper temperature.  It you get it too hot, the hot glue degrades, changes color, etc.  A high capacity hot glue gun is a good tool for dealing with hot glue because pouring a huge amount into a large mold generally won't produce good results.  You can also use a heat gun set at a low temperature to keep the applied glue liquid if you are working on a large surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if a melting pot is what you want, there are melting pots designed for the task.  Ranger made one of the most popular models, with temperature adjustable for most meltable materials.  I understand they have now discontinued it, but there are others.  This picture of their unit will illustrate the concept:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22HlQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22HlQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image courtesy Pinterest&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people just use a cheap, non-stick electric skillet that has an adjustable temperature that goes low enough for the material.  Just don't use it for food afterward (they're pretty cheap, though).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Relatively small and reasonably thin castings tend to come out fine, especially on the mold side.  There can be a little shrinkage on the sides, but it shows up mainly on the backside, and can be dealt with if that's important to your application. On a larger item, precise dimensions isn't critical for some purposes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the typical use is for things like costume jewelry, small toys, hobby items, decorations, and the like.  A thin layer of hot glue is clear enough that it can be used to embed objects in small pieces.  It's used to cast molds of objects to use for casting with materials like resin or Plaster of Paris.  Another use is similar to a 3D printer for purposes like modelling or prototyping.  Sections of an item are cast and then assembled by methods such as using a hot knife to melt and join edges, or running a hot glue gun along the seam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So back to the original question, depending on the mold material and size, what you need it for, and your expectations, casting with hot glue from a pan could potentially be a good solution for you.  Or it could be completely inadequate for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-07-29T22:16:54.477" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T22:16:54.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-29T20:57:12.767" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I painted a ceramic ring (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lespoulettes-bijoux.fr/bagues-fantaisie/femme-bague-anneau-de-ceramique-blanche-3mm-12985.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) with porcelain pens (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.edding.com/products/edding-4200-porcelain-brush-pen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;edding 4200 porcelain brush pen&lt;/a&gt;). I followed the instructions of the pens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the surface of the ring and remove dirt and grease.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the paint to dry for 15 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bake in the oven at 160°C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, the paint is not firm, can be easily removed with a finger and does not withstand daily use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to permanently apply the paint to the ring? Are there other pens that hold better or a varnish that I can apply over the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8257" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T04:07:55.780" Title="Porcelain brush pen does not stick to ceramic ring" Tags="|paint|ceramics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6351" CreationDate="2019-07-29T22:06:58.043" Score="3" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've disassembled models just to add electronics and lights. Now, I've decided to learn how to paint miniatures to expand my hobby and to get a better look on the finished models.&#xA;My first paint job will be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B01BD3NIJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;starship miniature&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing research about acrylic paints and techniques, this is what I plan to do (all with a brush, no airbrush at this stage):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply Vallejo Primer dark grey (do I use it thinned? which ratio?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry-brushing with white in multiple layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Vallejo Black wash for lines details and the back area (engines, etc.) Question: some people apply a thin layer of water,&#xA;then the wash, directly after the previous step. Others apply gloss&#xA;varnish. Is the varnish a must-have? If yes, should I thin it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap up everything protecting the model with a layer of matt varnish. What should the thinned ratio?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies if these are naive questions, but this is my first painting model, and I'd like to get it as right as possible. I've read many posts and watched youtube videos, but after finding some contradicting advice, I've decided to post a question here, as StackExchange sites had never failed me :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8259" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T08:56:39.023" Title="Acrylics and model building: is a gloss layer a must-have before line detailing and washing?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6326" CreationDate="2019-07-30T07:18:33.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m answering my own question since I seem to have found a solution (and nobody else has replied). If anyone has other suggestions I still encourage them to add additional answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first attempt was to use JB Weld brand ClearWeld two-part epoxy. This didn’t go well: As the epoxy cured it shrank, just a tiny amount, but enough to pull away from the acrylic plastic that surrounded it in most places, leading to a thin partially visible mirrorlike bubble boundary between the two plastics. Not what I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What actually did work was MG Chemicals 832WC Water Clear Epoxy Potting compound. This is designed for encasing electronic components, and did not appear to shrink at all. It does not adhere strongly to the acrylic (I can scrape it off with my fingernail in places where I had drips), and it is a pain to work with due to the long curing cycle (72 hours at room temperature, or one hour under 176-degree temperature). It is also fairly expensive (about $40 for 375 mL). These caveats aside, it does seem to have done the job, and its index of refraction is such that there is no visible boundary between the acrylic plastic and the cured epoxy: the entire project looks like a single piece of clear plastic, which is what I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I did not want to wait 72 hours, and had no oven that I wanted to use for epoxy, I wrapped my project in watertight plastic wrap (basically a Ziploc bag)  and heated a pot of water on the stove to 176 degrees (checking temperature periodically  with an infrared thermometer), and submersed the wrapped project in the water for an hour, using clamps to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8236" LastEditorUserId="8236" LastEditDate="2019-08-04T00:38:43.250" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T00:38:43.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-07-30T12:55:51.973" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to fade the color of this cotton cloth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPR4A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPR4A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of fabric&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a hot solution of bleach, but very little color comes out.&#xA;I also tried paint thinner, xylene, a fairly strong HCL mixture (a.k.a. muriatic acid) solution, and IPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something else I can try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-07-31T10:59:43.583" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T17:04:54.890" Title="Fade color in fabric" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6354" CreationDate="2019-07-31T14:03:48.653" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering using algorithmic design to design seats. However, I also want the result to be something people would actually want to use. So, I have to ensure that the result is comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides copying and looking at seats I find comfortable, are there any resources I can use to find design principles for comfortable seating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8240" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T20:46:40.383" Title="Seats - Principles for comfort" Tags="|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6350" CreationDate="2019-07-31T16:39:47.293" Score="1" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I erected a 4x4 (12 foot long) piece of lumber in our backyard to hang a bird feeder. It needed that long as the house sits much higher than the backyard and we want to see the feeder with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the pole and think of it as a canvas on which I could paint artwork. &lt;strong&gt;Are there certain/special kinds of paint I should consider?&lt;/strong&gt; I haven't decided if I want to put a base coat and then paint or simply go to town on it. While it should withstand the weather, I'm not too concerned if it fades in a few years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8268" LastEditorUserId="8268" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T10:36:27.677" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T18:45:42.467" Title="Paint artwork on pressure treated lumber" Tags="|paint|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6349" CreationDate="2019-08-01T00:40:28.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are aspects of the question that relate to paint, the material; painting, as in applying a coating; and painting, as in creating decoration.  I'll try to differentiate these.  In terms of paint, the material, there's a basic difference between a paint and a stain.  I'll use &quot;paint&quot; to refer to a material that coats the surface and dries into a &quot;shell&quot; of material, and &quot;stain&quot; to refer to a colorant that is absorbed into the wood.  That's an over-simplification, but close enough for the purposes of this discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dealing with pressure treated lumber&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure treated lumber stays wet for a long time.  The chemical treatment is forced deep into the wood and it can take over a year for the wood to thoroughly dry out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying a paint-like material to pressure treated lumber isn't recommended, at least during the first year or two.  Covered areas prevent the wood from drying evenly (causing warping and worse splitting).  The more area that is covered, the worse the problem.  So a few tiny decorations would be less bad than applying a base coat to the entire piece.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint-like material doesn't adhere well until the wood is dry.  When the surface is dry but moisture is still high internally, you get blisters (domes) in the paint, and other symptoms.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemical treatment saturates the wood.  While the wood still feels wet, there isn't much of anything that will stick to it or get absorbed.  Even when the surface feels dry, while there is still high internal moisture, finishes won't go on evenly.  This is especially a problem for stains, and the larger the area, the more noticeable it will be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the wood is dry to a reasonable depth, stain is typically the best type of finish, whether you're talking about covering all or most of the piece, or applying decorations that will be big enough to be visible from a distance.  It is absorbed into the wood instead of forming a surface coat.  There's a broad range of stain colors, and you could do some artwork with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Decorating the lumber&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of decorating the wood, if you want the decorations visible, you will need to contend with what will be the wood's color as the background.  Once the wood dries and weathers a little, it will be a medium gray when dry and can get dark when wet (and water will absorb into the wood, so it will remain dark for awhile until it dries out again).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint creates a solid surface color, so the visibility of artwork created with it won't be affected by the color of the wood.  However, you would want to wait at least a year before using paint for decorations.  Then you will have a problem of paint having a limited life on pressure treated lumber.  Pressure treated lumber doesn't age well when exposed to the elements, and the wood surface deteriorates under the paint, so the paint shell deteriorates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stain is much better suited for pressure treated lumber.  However, plain stain modifies the color of the wood more than creating a specific color.  So just applying stain in a pattern to create artwork won't be nearly as visible as paint.  There are a couple of things you can do to improve the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is to first apply a background coat of a very light color.  You can either apply it to the entire piece as a protective sealer, or just as a background in the area of each decoration.  Bear in mind that stain works by being absorbed into the wood, and most stains you'll find for outdoor use also seal the wood.  The heavier you apply the base color, the more effective it will be at making the background a light color, but it will also seal the wood more, so the colored stains you apply on top for decoration won't absorb as well.  It's a tradeoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other consideration, plain stain is a very thin liquid, which will be runny, especially working on a vertical surface if you decorate after the post in erected.  It will be even worse if you seal the surface with a base coat.  So you will need to control the amount you apply.  You will have a mess if you try to apply it heavily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better solution is to use pigmented stains, often referred to as solid color.  Pigmented stains are a mix of stain and solid particles of color.  The liquid gets absorbed into the wood and the pigment stays at the surface, making the color more intense and opaque.  Pigmented stains are closer in consistency to paint, so easier to control when you apply them.  You wouldn't need a color base coat for pigmented stain, just apply it to create the artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another potential solution (I haven't personally tried this): use a light color pigmented stain as a base coat, perhaps on the whole piece as a protective sealant.  When it is completely dry, paint the decorations on it with oil base paint.  That might work better in theory than in practice; I have no idea.  You could try it on a scrap piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T18:54:24.423" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T18:54:24.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6343" CreationDate="2019-08-01T07:40:32.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Miniature painting is an interesting hobby, but as with any artistic technique, you need to practice and learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to all your questions is: &lt;strong&gt;Do whatever gives you the result you like best&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should first paint a small model that's not the centerpiece of your collection, or an old model you don't like best. Use this for practice and try out different techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any paint or varnish should be thined as much as possible but as little as necessary. On the one hand, you want the paint to be so thin that it doesn't overlay and hide small details, on the other hand, it must be thick enough to cover the area with pigment. I'd say a consistency between vanilla sauce and water is probably ok. If you thin the paint or varnish too much, you need to apply several layers to get the same effect. This is a matter of personal preference. Some people prefer a thicker paint that covers the underground in one single application, others prefer to apply several layers of paint to protect even the smallest details from being covered up. You need to try it out and find your own preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black wash is the most simple way to create shadows and details in all the cracks and crannies. The disadvantage is that it darkens the whole area it's applied to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One solution is to dry brush to a lighter tone than intended in the finished piece and apply black wash over the whole miniature to darken it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An alternative is to apply a thin layer of clean water and adding the wash to it. The water dilutes the wash and makes the pigments flow better. The overall darkening effect is lessened, but you might have to apply several layers of wash. A tiny (and I mean &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt;) amount of dish soap acts as a flow agent so the pigments flow into the cracs instead of bunching up on the flat surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the primary purpose of gloss varnish is to make things ... glossy. It could be that the wash flows better over the varnish (similar to the thin layer of water), so it doesn't darken flat areas as much. Personally I don't apply gloss varnish before a wash, so I don't have first-hand experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it all comes down to your personal preference. If you like a glossy, metallic shine, apply gloss varnish. If you like a rough, dust look, apply matte varnish. If you want to paint a wet stain (maybe oil, fuel, water or blood), apply a matte varnish and then paint a glossy stain over the dried varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A hint at the end: I prefer light primers (off white or light grey) because they make it easier to see small details during the painting process. I tried black primer once but it made the painting process more complicated because I overlooked small details and had to repaint them later.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T08:56:39.023" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T08:56:39.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6334" CreationDate="2019-08-01T10:06:43.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came up with another solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a hyperbola from cardboard (positive mould)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a block (*) (figure: grey rectangle) which serves as a negative mould&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Mill&quot; the block with the cardboard hyporbola&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coat the negative with paper and adhesive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this should make it pretty accurate (shape-wise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(*) The only thing I am still thinking about is out of which material would be the grey block&lt;/strong&gt; It can't be out of clay for instance since the cardboard would not be rigid enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mLBw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mLBw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8250" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T10:06:43.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5471" CreationDate="2019-08-01T16:25:23.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topstitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;topstitching&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stitching down all the edges that you want to have a crease in them will offer a mechanical fastener, in the form of thread, to keep the folds in place. This sidesteps the rubber's resistance to being holding a crease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test how it would look by attaching clothes pins or similar along where you would topstitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="8270" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T16:36:26.287" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T16:36:26.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6348" CreationDate="2019-08-01T19:19:13.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;are there any resources I can use to find design principles for comfortable seating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few to get started:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.woodmagazine.com/must-have-measurements-for-comfortable-seating&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Must-Have Measurements for Comfortable Seating&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLw3k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLw3k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a little work the drawing above can be turned into an algorithm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The key variable will be the dimensions of the person sitting in the chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another useful drawing:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDtos.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDtos.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://muhammadzainudinnazha.wordpress.com/category/furniture-design-workshop/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;found the picture here&lt;/a&gt; but I don't think this is the original source. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/plans-projects/concept-comfort-build-casual-chair&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;From Concept to Comfort: Build a Casual Chair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good article describing the process from ideation to finished product.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summarizing:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; 1. Ideation&lt;br&gt;&#xA; 2. Sketches&lt;br&gt;&#xA; 3. Prototyping&lt;br&gt;&#xA; 4. Testing&lt;br&gt;&#xA; 5. Adjusting (iterate steps 3, 4, and 5 until happy)&lt;br&gt;&#xA; 6. Build final version  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps are not unique to chair creation. This process should allow you to build experience, gather data, and derive the information you seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other resources:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cawspi.org/Furniture%20Design.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Standard Dimensions for Furniture Design&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6946" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T19:19:13.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6375" CreationDate="2019-08-02T19:03:49.647" Score="5" ViewCount="2218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Singer Start 1304 Sewing Machine and am watching tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one of them, the lady demonstrates how to make a simple stitch. She goes a few stitches forward, a few stitches back, and continues stitching forward to the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then she goes a few stitches back, a few stitches forwards, and then cuts the fabric:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ZC0Rhc_stfI?t=799&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/ZC0Rhc_stfI?t=799&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in the video, she demonstrates making a zig-zag stitch. However, she does not demonstrate going back a few stitches in the beginning, and going back few stitches in end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ZC0Rhc_stfI?t=900&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/ZC0Rhc_stfI?t=900&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I decide to make a zig-zag stitch, should I only go forwards (and not backwards)?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If so, then how do I ensure my zig-zag stitch does not come apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-08-15T11:38:19.737" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T07:08:35.727" Title="Are there cases where we do not reverse stitch when sewing?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6326" CreationDate="2019-08-02T20:16:03.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need to do this again, you might want to look into &amp;quot;bar top epoxy&amp;quot;. This is usually clear and is a 2 part epoxy. Some are polyester resins, but not all.  Some of these are expected to be applied in thin layers, such as 1/4&amp;quot;, instead of a cylinder or bowl, so dry/cure times may differ. However, some are expected to be applied at over an inch in depth at one shot, so you'd just need to read the directions before purchase. Also, no telling if there's shrinkage at these thicknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these specifically say they are UV resistant. I'm not sure if that means it block it or lets it pass through. This could mean some testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a fair amount of this for some furniture I've made. I purchased from Menards, but the below link is the same stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000BZYYQ0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-32-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B000BZYYQ0/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loctite seems to make a wide variety of clear epoxies, although maybe not in the quantities you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have some luck asking at a local hardware or craft store. Not all employees will be able to answer your questions, but they might be able to help find someone who can, or at least point you in the direction of the epoxies they do have so you can look on the box or bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry I don't have all your answers, but hopefully I at least provided some alternative suggestions to the expensive potting epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just recently gotten into UV resins for 3D printing and many of them are clear. I'm wondering if you can use that to fill your mold, using a high intensity UV light to cure the resin. Depending on the brand, UV resin isn't exactly cheap, but it's not horribly expensive either. I haven't tried to cure something this thick, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV lights that match the wavelength of UV resins are easy to come by on online stores. I have 3x lights that are 60 watts each from Amazon, and I've seen up to 100 watts, maybe more, for not too expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought is to 3D print the mold with the UV resin, then fill it with more liquid resin. This would make it so that everything could shrink or expand at the same rate, so it wouldn't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think these two ideas are something I need to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T21:24:48.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-03T18:26:48.063" Score="3" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to drawing with colored pencils. I've drawn a bear that has a nose and mouth in black, but I can't quite figure out how or when to draw these black parts without accidentally grabbing some of the black color when filling in adjacent colors. I've tried doing the black at the end after the rest of the colors, but it doesn't seem to be as crisp compared to when I put the black down first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be hard to tell in the attached drawing, but the black from the nose and the line down to the mouth, as well as the dots on the chest, sort of got blended into the light tan/brown color, even though I tried to be super careful to avoid the black. My pencils are very sharp so I don't think that's the issue. I'm wondering if this is something that just comes with practice? Or can someone recommend a method or technique to applying crisp black lines to colored pencil drawings that prevents them from accidentally blending into the colors next to it. Btw, in case it makes a difference, I'm just using cheap Crayola pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OTscN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8274" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T20:32:06.770" Title="Prevent black colored pencil from blending into adjacent colors" Tags="|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6358" CreationDate="2019-08-03T23:30:19.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The layering could be causing the blending issue. Instead of coloring in between the black dots with the brown on the chest, you can try coloring the lighter brown as the first layer, and then going over it with black. Almost like an outline.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also consider that when the tips of the lighter colors aren't clean (having black on the tip from previous blending) they can give darker smudges on former layers, which might be causing the blending issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short source with imagery: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artistsnetwork.com/art-techniques/burnishing-with-colored-pencil-gary-greene/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.artistsnetwork.com/art-techniques/burnishing-with-colored-pencil-gary-greene/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-13T13:23:37.387" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T13:23:37.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6370" CreationDate="2019-08-05T16:40:27.957" Score="5" ViewCount="29783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased Singer Start 1304 Sewing Machine. When I press on the foot ever so lightly it goes fast and loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am really taken aback by so much noise and speed (especially since I am new comer and have now figured out how thread properly and make straight, plain stitches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can this be resolved? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This young lady says press on foot pedal slowly, but it is still going fast. It doesn't sound so loud. Perhaps the video is not capturing how loud it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it a matter of comfort and getting used to. Please help!!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/xdHnrlrQ6RE?t=353&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/xdHnrlrQ6RE?t=353&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastActivityDate="2022-10-26T08:13:11.283" Title="How to Slow the Speed of a Sewing Machine" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-05T20:13:38.780" Score="3" ViewCount="1266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to mimic this faux tortoise shell material: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KdLpq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KdLpq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I need the material to be like a thin layer of plastic (probably less than 2mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using clear epoxy resin + colors, and I almost got satisfactory results (at least for the first try):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zQhW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zQhW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But by the time the resin was curing, the colors were all mixed together, and the final result was a single color. So I guess I need to find another way of doing it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any suggestions? I was thinking about using acrylic colors on a thin sheet of plastic, and then using clear resin over it when the colors are dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8286" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-05T20:21:53.837" LastActivityDate="2021-01-14T16:32:40.810" Title="How to reproduce faux tortoise shell material" Tags="|paint|plastic|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6364" CreationDate="2019-08-05T22:10:42.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently viewed a YouTube'r creating pen blanks with two different colored resins and pine cones. She placed a timer in the camera view and after mixing the two parts of the respective resins waited for a specific time before pouring the resins into the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not pay sufficient attention to the elapsed time and it would depend on the resin being used. I've seen resins that gel up in three or four minutes and another product that has forty-five minute working time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to use your existing resins if you are able to determine the edge of the gel period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-08-05T22:10:42.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6358" CreationDate="2019-08-06T07:27:43.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d suggest you buy one black Faber-Castell pencil. They are beautiful to draw with. And they have more pigment than the Crayolas so the blacks will be blacker when you need them to be. Judging by the look of your work, I’d say you’re quite accomplished in drawing, so buying a quality pencil is an essential next step. You will be surprised by the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to cheat, you could use a black fine liner, but you would need to experiment with this approach first on a separate drawing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Alternatively you could use a black watercolour pencil, also by Faber-Castell (my favourites).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-08T16:53:34.973" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T16:53:34.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2019-08-06T13:52:31.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sewing machine in the clip you've linked to is going very slowly; it seems as though you have no familiarity with machine sewing, have chosen to jump in without knowledge or training, and are uncomfortable with the machine. You also mention not knowing how to thread the machine or perform the most basic function of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to slow a basic machine beyond pressing gently on the foot pedal; some higher-end machines will have a stitch speed regulator, but these do not drop the speed any further than the clip in the linked video. &lt;strong&gt;What needs to be addressed is your own comfort level.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Return to the place where you purchased the machine and, instead of asking about speed, ask about classes. Many places will offer them, and frequently they'll be free if you've purchased a machine from them. Even if they don't offer them, they'll know where to direct you to take a class and learn how to use your machine. Due to your lack of experience, you have no confidence or comfort around the machine, are confused about how it works, and don't know where to start; &lt;strong&gt;an in-person class is the best way to handle this extreme lack of comfort.&lt;/strong&gt; They'll be able to show you how to thread your particular machine and help you directly to get over your fear of it; after a good class, you should be able to easily sew simpler items confidently, with no fear of the &quot;speed and noise&quot; of your machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T13:52:31.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2019-08-06T18:04:11.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Singer foot pedals sometimes have a speed adjustment.  Mine does, I own a CG 550. Look underneath the pedal and if there is a little hole, you should be able to take an electronics grade small flat head screwdriver or one for glasses and torque the gauge to speed up or slow down. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5gXT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5gXT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;underside of foot pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Singer machines typically come at middle speed. As this is a beginner machine, it may already be set as slow as it goes. Of course, that is, if it even has the speed adjustment slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My very first Singer had the hole with the ability to adjust the speed without the markings. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1rhB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1rhB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;small screwdriver&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You’re machine manual on page 6, states that speed is only controlled by your foot. See pic from manual taken from Singer website.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gsPtP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gsPtP.png&quot; alt=&quot;singer manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can control the speed of a consumer machine somewhat. Mostly it feels like slow, fast and stop. Commercial machines have much more subtle control.&#xA;The best way to get used to the speed of your  oops, sewing machine is to take gobs of scrap fabric and go nuts with all the stitches. It’s fun and helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2019-08-07T00:49:50.450" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T00:49:50.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2019-08-06T18:15:37.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can back stitch a zigzag, but usually it’s not your stress stitch. Also, you probably don’t want to back stitch when making gathers or basting. &#xA;Back stitching helps secure your stitch and is very useful. Good habit to start with but i have found many times that it’s unnecessary. Like darts! Have fun! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T18:15:37.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-06T23:00:16.253" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project that requires some upholstery work and I cant seem to track down the fabric I'd like. I'm looking for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.westelm.com/products/mathias-mid-century-wood-frame-loveseat-h2314/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this pattern&lt;/a&gt; or something near it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtaUo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtaUo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The style shown on the website isn't sold anymore, but when it was they called it &lt;strong&gt;Nordic Weave, Indigo&lt;/strong&gt; and that's about all the information I have on it. I've searched for quite a while to find it or something similar and I can't find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a clue of where I might find this fabric?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8291" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T23:55:11.750" Title="Tracking down speckled/marbled upholstery fabric" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-08-09T13:28:05.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6372" CreationDate="2019-08-06T23:55:11.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some similar fabrics at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lavivahome.com/shop/fabrics-wallpapers/djellaba-collection-fabric/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lavivahome.com&lt;/a&gt;. They call it &lt;em&gt;cotton stria&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;wool bouclè&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE7ii.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE7ii.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T23:55:11.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6302" CreationDate="2019-08-07T11:26:45.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest a basic sunless Tanner foam ( lightest tan)dispensed mixed with some color agent that won't dye the skin permanently, like a children's bathtime paints. &#xA;   Or, possibly use party streamers then either get wet to apply(an oil perhaps) or spray with body glitter for eye-catching gleam! &#xA;   Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8292" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T11:26:45.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2019-08-07T13:39:20.797" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To understand when to use backstitching, you need to understand the purpose of it in the first place. It's not just &quot;a thing that is done,&quot; it is a technique to &quot;lock&quot; the stitches in place on a seam. To illustrate this for yourself, get some scrap fabric and stitch two pieces of it together along a straight edge. Backstitch at one end, and just stitch off the edge on the other, trim the threads, then attempt to pull the fabric apart at the seam on both ends. You'll see that the end you didn't backstitch will pull apart much more easily, while the end that is backstitched will hold more securely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cases where one would expect to backstitch the seams are primarily in structural areas; finishing (top) stitching is also frequently backstitched to prevent the stitches from pulling out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you'll need to understand the purpose of the zigzag stitch. In most cases for home sewing, the zigzag is used to help prevent fraying in woven fabrics; because it's not structural, there's minimal benefit to backstitching at either end, though you may find it easier on some fabrics that are more prone to fraying to start on the fabric and backstitch to the edge before going forward in order to help prevent the fabric from being pulled down through the throat plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further information, I would highly recommend taking a beginning sewing course that can be tailored to your knowledge level. Online tutorials and videos are only marginally useful when you don't have the basic experience expected from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T13:39:20.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6380" CreationDate="2019-08-09T13:27:07.390" Score="3" ViewCount="23397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I painted some Jenga blocks and gave them a clear coat in Mod Podge to seal the paint. The Mod Podge coat is still sticky after a few days, which is definitely not good for Jenga blocks. How can I make the blocks not sticky?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately after more than a month of curing, my blocks still stick together! What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2019-09-16T19:54:54.437" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T12:50:45.693" Title="My Mod Podge coat is still sticky. What do I do?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6381" CreationDate="2019-08-09T13:42:01.270" Score="2" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there exists a term that describes the practice of using objects to depict other objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give an example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the painting &quot;The Librarian&quot;, Arcimboldo uses books to depict a person.&#xA;So the artist uses objects (books) to depict something entirely different (a person).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JBozZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JBozZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8298" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T14:52:22.467" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T14:54:23.630" Title="Using objects to depict other objects" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6378" CreationDate="2019-08-09T14:29:32.583" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mod Podge takes a very long time to cure; around four weeks, depending on humidity and coat thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To properly use Mod Podge, you need to apply multiple thin layers (not thick ones), allowing them to dry completely between each coat. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://meaningfulmama.com/10-tips-for-using-mod-podge.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meaningful Mama&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you don’t let [the Mod Podge] dry completely between coats, your project can end up more sticky and may bubble a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Dry&quot; is not &quot;cured,&quot; however; while it will only take an hour or so (again, depending on humidity) for each coat to dry, you need to leave the pieces alone for roughly a month to become fully cured and hardened. Once fully cured, the Mod Podge will be a durable coating resistant to damage, but during the cure time, it will remain soft and susceptible to damage, including shifting and peeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T14:29:32.583" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6379" CreationDate="2019-08-09T15:26:36.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Pareidolia&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pareidolia is the tendency to interpret a vague stimulus as something known to the observer, such as seeing shapes in clouds, seeing faces in inanimate objects or abstract patterns, or hearing hidden messages in music.&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pareidolia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many examples on the internet beyond Arcimboldo, just look for &lt;em&gt;Pareidolia in art&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h6BuS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h6BuS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Women Forming A Skull By Salvador Dali&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T14:54:23.630" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T14:54:23.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-10T00:25:00.137" Score="3" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if this type of collage or embroidery mixing different objects like pearls, sequins, beads and bugle beads has a specific name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/19vZS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/19vZS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found other examples on Google searching &lt;code&gt;pearls, sequins and beads embroidery&lt;/code&gt; but I wonder if there is a common denomination for this type of embroidery using multiple elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2019-08-10T16:07:50.173" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T14:01:19.753" Title="Name of collage or embroidery mixing pearls, sequins and beads" Tags="|terminology|embroidery|beads|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6382" CreationDate="2019-08-10T15:52:01.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first I was going to say this isn't really a collage, since it's sewn rather than glued, but I learned that this &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; qualify as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collage#Three-dimensional_collage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;three-dimensional collage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A 3D collage is the art of putting altogether three-dimensional objects such as ... beads ... to form a new whole or a new object. Examples can include ... bead circles&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    &lt;em&gt;-- Wikipedia&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is still a very broad category, and not specific to an embroidery-based collage. However, most beadwork is done with same-size beads, and your example includes different sizes and shapes (and some sequins thrown in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2019-08-10T15:52:01.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6382" CreationDate="2019-08-13T16:02:34.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vocabulary.com/dictionary/beading&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;beading&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, being the decoration of fabric with beads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, more specifically to embroidery, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bead_embroidery&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bead embroidery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-14T14:01:19.753" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T14:01:19.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6358" CreationDate="2019-08-14T14:51:43.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the problem you're facing has more to do with the type of paper you use - especially its texture, or the 'tooth' of its surface. &lt;strong&gt;If you want crisper lines, and hence less smudging, try drawing on smoother paper.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can check the smoothness of paper simply by looking at it, and feeling it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Try out some different smoothnesses, but don't go for very smooth paper at first (like the ones that say they're &quot;extra smooth&quot; or &quot;ultra smooth&quot;), as it can have an unpleasant effect (it does for me, at least). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the paper is of good quality, or you might scratch the surface and get similar problems all the same.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the quality you can look both at the price (which is a very decent indicator), and the weight (usually in g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T14:51:43.417" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2677" CreationDate="2019-08-15T21:31:14.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most pants get larger as you move up the leg, and as such making a very tall cuff or one with many folds tends to result in wrinkles being sewn in, as the cuff is smaller than the pant leg when it is rolled up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider adding a cuff as a separate piece of fabric. You could match the fabric exactly if you are making the pants yourself, or if you purchase the pants or simply prefer it, you can make them from any fabric you like. As the cuff wears out, it can be removed and replaced as often as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.willowandstitch.com/bloghistory/2015/7/21/how-to-lengthen-pants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; one, of many, tutorials on the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-16T08:27:33.197" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T08:27:33.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6392" CreationDate="2019-08-16T14:34:13.497" Score="4" ViewCount="8133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got my hands on 2 normal mirrors and would like to build a magic mirror.&#xA;Even after extensive googling I couldn't find an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know normal mirrors have some reflective (metal?) and paint coating on them and was wondering if one could partially strip the coatings to create a one way mirror? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea I had was to strip the coatings in very thin stripes with coating between them, think &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scan_Line_Interleave&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scan Line Interleave&lt;/a&gt; but instead of a second image it's coating removed, not removed alternating. But I imagine one would need some serious kit to pull it off as DIY project because of the very small spaces between the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to hear your thoughts if it's feasible/practical or if I should just buy a glass (maybe acrylic) plate and put one way mirror foil on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-08-17T12:08:19.450" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T12:08:19.450" Title="Can you turn a normal mirror into a one way mirror?" Tags="|glass|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6389" CreationDate="2019-08-16T15:04:15.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the existing mirror glass is removable, do so, because the chemicals involved in stripping off the existing reflective surface can damage the frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend scraping the back of the mirror because it might scratch the glass and such scratches may be visible in the finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, use a liquid paint stripper to remove the reflective surface.  Wear appropriate safety gear and gloves and make sure to properly ventilate your work area.  The mirror's original coating may contain metals and other compounds which can be pretty nasty when combined with the strong stripping chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the original mirror glass is clear and backing free, apply one-way mirror film to the back and put it back in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T15:04:15.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2019-08-16T15:08:59.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have some luck with stabilizing it as though it was a slab. Using an epoxy in acetone method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissolve epoxy in acetone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Submerge rough stone in the epoxy acetone mixture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal up container so acetone does not evaporate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave in mixture for at least a week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove from acetone and let dry for at least another week &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mindat.org/article.php/1129/Methods+to+Stabilize+Material+for+Cutting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mindat has some good instructions along with other methods&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important detail is this method relies on diffusion. When you have a slab your path length is relatively short, so the epoxy can diffuse in fairly quickly (days). As you make the material thicker the time increases. If you have a piece of rough that is fairly narrow in one dimension, you're in luck, treat it as a slab, diffusion won't be slowed down by rough edges, indeed it will be slightly faster. Where you're going to run into problems is with a thick piece of rough material that resembles a sphere. In this situation you may want to go at it in multiple passes as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that your rough material is sphere with a diameter of six inches. Additionally you've determined that you can &quot;completely&quot; stabilize a slab that is one inch thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow the same procedure with the rough material, you can &quot;completely&quot; stabilize the outer 1/2 inch of it. At which point you could cut off slabs as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circle_of_a_sphere&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;circles of a sphere&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oR4fI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oR4fI.png&quot; alt=&quot;circle of a sphere&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of 1/2 inch thickness.&#xA;The process could be repeated to allow for a second, larger, slab to be produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably sacrifice the first layer, as it is typically irregular to begin with, making a poor slab. Or, because I am impatient, I would slab the rough and accept what breaks as broken and stabilize the usable parts as slabs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: It has been years since I've made a cab and my knowledge of stabilization techniques is from research only, I have not tried these techniques myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="8270" LastEditDate="2019-08-18T12:23:23.637" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T12:23:23.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6389" CreationDate="2019-08-16T15:35:10.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're likely going to run into some issues with the coatings that protect the metal layer. There are several types of glass mirrors:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirror#Types_of_glass_mirrors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirror#Types_of_glass_mirrors&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically the layer that reflects the image is silver or aluminum. They are made by taking a sheet of glass, applying a layer of metal, then protecting that metal with additional layers of paint or protective materials. As such first the protective layer would need to be removed, it would depend on what the layer was made of to determine what would be used to remove it. After which some of the metal layer would need to be removed, probably by dissolving. What would dissolve it would depend on what it was made of. After this, a protective coating should be reapplied, or the lightest scratch will take off the mirror material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be simpler to work with a fresh piece of glass and apply silver nitrate directly (as in photo making). Or even easier apply some two way film. Which is tint film that makes any glass a two way mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="8270" LastEditDate="2019-08-16T16:06:33.990" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T16:06:33.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="391" CreationDate="2019-08-20T02:25:41.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was searching for the article that shows you how to wash bolts of fabric without fraying or getting all tangled up. It involved folding a certain way and then pinning the ends with safety pins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did do it before and it worked really well but I can't find the article now. Recently when I just tried to guess what i did the first time, it worked out well. What I did was, open up the bolt with selvedges on each side. Then folded it up accordion-style, then fold to have selvedges meet. Then pinned the Selvage edges together with safety pins..I washed and dried the &quot;package&quot;. Voila, minimal fraying and no twisting. I then sprayed with my faux Best Press and pressed. Nice!!! But I'm still looking for the original article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8325" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T02:25:41.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6358" CreationDate="2019-08-20T20:32:06.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of good advice here, but you may also want to consider using a &lt;strong&gt;fixative&lt;/strong&gt; to preserve the drawing as you work it. Fixative, found in convenient to use spray cans although you can get it in liquid form, chemically bonds and protects the pigments applied to the paper. It is nearly a requirement when working in pastels and I regularly use it to protect my graphite pencil drawings. Look for &lt;strong&gt;workable spray fix&lt;/strong&gt; in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you would draw the dark details, spray fix them, then work the light areas and there will be no smudges. The reverse is possible as well but sometimes the fix will darken light colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix is toxic so spray outside or have good ventilation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T20:32:06.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3913" CreationDate="2019-08-20T21:21:02.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like everything online says these use the Standard International size cartridge. There are some complaints of leaks though unless you get them from the original maker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an old original cartridge, you could try cleaning and refilling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T21:21:02.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6252" CreationDate="2019-08-20T21:36:33.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to identify how a color is mixed first and foremost you need a color wheel which will show you where the color you want lands relative to the primaries. Second, read up on color theory which will help you understand what is going on with that color wheel and how colors behave in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have that down, here are some tips for keeping your mixed colors vibrant (or not):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First... for any two colors you are mixing, be sure their value/lightness/tone are similar. Use white to bring up the darker color to match the lightness of the lighter color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second... there are cool and warm versions of the primaries (Red, Yellow, Blue). Cool colors tend towards blue, warm toward red. If you mix a cool color with a warm color it will lose intensity, so mix cool with cool and warm with warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keep that in mind your mixtures will be cleaner. As far as which colors produce which, look for a color wheel. But you probably know the basic idea: Primaries lead to secondaries: Red+Yellow = Orange, Red+Blue = Purple/Violet, Yellow+Blue = Green. A secondary color mixed with its &quot;opposite&quot; (the primary -not- used to form it) will desaturate the color, eventually leading to a chromatic grey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get most any color you want using warm and cold primaries and white. However if you know the secondary color you want to use start with that as a base pigment and &quot;customize it&quot; using small amounts of other colors. That is where experimentation and experience come it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the concept of relative color comes in. That is how one color is affected by the colors adjacent to it. A color next to its complement will appear more intense as the contrast is greater. Look up Joseph Albers who did extensive research into this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint binder (acrylic, oil, ...) and scale of the work do not effect the color theory, however cheaper paints will have less pure pigments and therefore will have less intensity and will not handle mixing as well as professional grade paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-10-22T19:48:08.497" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T19:48:08.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6346" CreationDate="2019-08-21T16:56:38.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material was soaked for 2 hours in a bleach solution that had been brought to the boiling point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNeu5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNeu5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T16:56:38.633" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6346" CreationDate="2019-08-21T17:04:54.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending upon where you live, you could put it out in the Summer sunshine.  Might take a while, but sunlight seems to fade everything that I expose to it, including the sunshade fabric which is specifically designed to resist UV fading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T17:04:54.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-22T04:22:08.703" Score="2" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have made a lot of crafts involving moving water, especially scenes I sculpt out of clay and then paint/seal. I made a mini pond to put on my table, an old country scene with a working water wheel for a competition and even a small fountain lit with laser lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each of my crafts, I use acrylic aquarium tubing to transport the water where it needs to go, in and out of pumps etc. Up until now, I have simply glued each tube permanently in place, but this has got to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are times when I wish I could just unscrew a valve connection and remove linking tubes, for example to disconnect a pump from an archived project and reuse it, or in more involved projects, disconnect large pieces for transportation to a showcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t like using pre-made tube connectors for this, which can also be expensive if I need lots of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I had a genius idea: bottle necks and caps are designed to be water-tight in nature. If I took a bottle, cut off the neck, glued my tube in and drilled the cap for another tube, I could make a screwable connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem with this connector is bulk. If I choose too large a bottle cap, than liquid could remain in the junction after draining the piece. The simple solution is to use necks and caps with a similar diameter to my tubing. Airline toothpaste tubes and their caps have proven well-suited to this task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem is twisting tubes. Directly gluing my tubes to the caps will cause the tubes to twist (and possibly kink) as I screw the caps on. I solved this with some rubber bands and vegetable oil. I snipped the tube near the cap connection and put the free end of the severed tube over the end of a pair of needle-nosed pliers. I heated the end up with a low-heat heat gun and used the pliers to widen the tube neck. Now the little piece of tube still attached to the cap fits inside the end of the free tube. I glued a strip of rubber band around the outside of the cap tube and the inside of the free tube and then pushed them together. They stayed in place after adding a plastic disk to the cap tube cut from a plastic drinks cup. A swab of vegetable oil on the rubber bands makes for a water-tight, revolving jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem now is where I can find a good/cheap/free source of tiny caps and screwable necks. I am all out of airline toothpaste. I thought about using cork and bottle necks because they sell tiny bottles at the local store with cork stoppers, but when I cut the glass the bottles sometimes crack and break, and the cork leaks without vegetable oil added regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8332" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T19:30:03.930" Title="Cheap Screw-Valve Connectors for Water-Based Crafts" Tags="|material-selection|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-22T14:20:48.740" Score="0" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people paint at a perspective that is like a couple of degrees below the horizontal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is there a word for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ox91F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ox91F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PuirY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PuirY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8334" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T11:55:15.443" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T11:55:15.443" Title="Does anybody know the name of the perspective most people paint in?" Tags="|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6408" CreationDate="2019-08-22T16:46:20.887" Score="6" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to attach a rectangular piece of wood (without drilling through the wood) to a string to make a necklace. The piece of wood should be attached with a knot to its extremity, and hang vertically. I would like the knot to be small, easy and aesthetic. I am thinking about using a fisherman's knot to make a loop out of the necklace, and then somehow attach the wood to the loop - but it might be more clever to attach the wood to the two ends of the string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of knot should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8336" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-22T18:15:34.127" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T20:47:06.843" Title="Attaching a piece of wood to a necklace without drilling" Tags="|wood|knots|string|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6405" CreationDate="2019-08-22T19:45:08.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specific knot isn't critical as long as the knot has the functionality.  There are endless choices, so you can pretty much pick one that you find attractive as long as it is a type that doesn't slip (and any knot reference will describe that characteristic).  However, you will need to deal with the issue of any knot attached as described in the question pulling off the wood; just a single knot of any kind won't work because there's nothing to keep it from sliding off.  So rather than suggest a specific knot, let me focus on securing the wood to the string regardless of the knot you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're amenable to a dot of glue on the backside, you can hang it from one corner or one edge of the wood (the orientation wasn't clear in the question).  Create a loop in the string sized to fit the desired distance from the corner of the wood or around the sides if hanging from one edge.  Hold the string in place temporarily and apply a small amount of glue between the string and the back of the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The string can hold the wood securely if you capture two diagonally opposite corners, or all four corners, each in a loop, where the diagonally opposite loops are on the same run of string and can't move apart.  For the wood to lay flat, the string that goes around your neck should come either from the top corner, or the two corners of the top edge, depending on the desired orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're amenable to using the edge of the wood, you can do it with the method used for rimless glasses.  There are several approaches.  One is to file a &quot;V&quot; groove around the edge of the wood using a tiny triangular file to a depth of at least 1/3 the diameter of the string.  Then loop the string around the groove, stretch it tight, and secure it with a knot.  That will hold up to normal jewelry handling.  But if the string stretches a little over time or the wood gets a good tug, it could pop out.  If you want it permanently secure, you can use a small amount of glue in the groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variation on this is far less visible than a border of string.  Use either clear nylon fishing line or nylon or polyester thread, or a strand of wire.  These are much narrower but strong.  The groove can be much narrower, and the strand can be totally sunken into the edge.  Nylon will virtually disappear.  Wire will hardly be visible, but you can pick a wire color to make the thin line an accent color.  Form a loop at the hanging point and put the string through it.  You can always add decorative knots if you want it more elaborate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want the wood to hang in the rectangular orientation rather than the diagonal orientation, you could just glue the string to the top edge of the wood.  Then you can add decorative knots if desired.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to glue the string on, you can secure it with a tiny &quot;staple&quot; near each corner.  Bend a fine wire into a rounded staple shape the diameter of the string (if the string is stranded, you can even make the staple smaller and capture just a strand or two of the string).  Pre-drill the nearly microscopic holes in the top edge the same diameter as the strand of wire (micro drill bits are sold in sets going down to a small fraction of a millimeter in diameter for making such tiny holes, and they aren't very expensive).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Capture the string and then use needle nose pliers to push the wire into the holes.  They will typically be secure from friction.  If they are too loose, coat the tips of the legs with a tiny amount of glue before pushing them in, and hold or clamp them in place until the glue sets (which shouldn't be long for such a small amount).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You stipulate no drilling through the wood.  It isn't clear whether your objective there is to avoid a visible hole through the face of the wood or not wanting any damage to the wood.  If you just don't want to mar the face, you can make a tiny hole on the edge and insert an eye pin (glue-in or threaded).  That gives you a loop for the string.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue-in type uses a tiny hole (use the same type of drill bits described for the &quot;staples&quot;).  The eye pins are available at hobby shops and jewelry supply stores.  You can even make your own glue-in type by bending a piece of wire.  The glue-in type are typically pretty stiff, so you may be able to make the hole the same diameter as the wire or a smidgen smaller, then push the pin in with needle nose pliers.  That will usually hold well without glue.  For the screw-in type, you just want a pilot hole the diameter of the shank under the thread.  The jewelry-sized threaded eye pins are pretty small, so the pilot hole may also require micro drill bits.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JB04w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JB04w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image 1 courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jansjewels.com/eye-pins-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jan's Jewelry Supplies&lt;/a&gt;.  Image 2 courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07L4X13CY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6X40a.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6X40a.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T04:38:26.687" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T04:38:26.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6403" CreationDate="2019-08-22T20:47:03.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of simple, inexpensive solutions.  It doesn't beat the free materials cost of recycling used stuff, but it also doesn't require all of the labor to fabricate water-tight connections.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Materials for the first solution would be under a dime per connection based on roughly 1/4&quot; ID plastic tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get some metal tubing that fits tightly into the acrylic tubing.  It can even be slightly larger than the inner diameter because the plastic tubing can be warmed and stretched.  Copper tubing is fairly inexpensive, and a small roll goes a long way (a 10' roll of 1/4&quot; OD copper tubing is about $5 and will yield 80 connectors).  Cut some pieces roughly 1.5&quot; long.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a tubing cutter, the end will be a little rounded, which is perfect.  If you cut the tubing by other means, use a little sandpaper to smooth any rough or sharp edges, including the end, since these will weaken the plastic tubing.  Use a permanent marker to draw a line around the circumference at the halfway point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insert a piece half way into one side of the plastic tubing to be joined.  Leave the mark visible.  The water isn't under serious pressure, so if you need to stretch the plastic tubing a little, it will probably be water-tight as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you needed to warm the plastic tubing, wait for it to cool.  Finish the connection by pushing the other side of the metal tubing into the other piece of plastic tubing until the ends of the plastic tubing meet.  The visible mark will let you know if you're pushing the metal tubing farther into the first piece, which you don't want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that happens, reposition the metal tubing to the halfway point.  Use a plastic zip tie to tighten the plastic tubing on the first side (under 2 cents if you buy a package of a reasonable quantity).  Position it at half the inserted length of the metal tubing, and use needle nose pliers to pull the zip tie tight (pull it tight by hand, then grab the end with pliers close to the lock, and rotate the pliers against the lock for leverage to pull it tighter).  You can snip off the tail.  The zip tie can be used in any case for extra insurance of a water-tight connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the second side, if you want to add a zip tie, use the removable type there, which will facilitate disconnecting and reusing everything without risking cutting the plastic tubing when cutting off a single-use zip tie.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need a ton of connectors and want to save all labor, a ready to use solution is double-sided barb connectors.  For small diameter tubing, this would cost just over a dime per connection (in quantities of 50 or more), with zero fabrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image courtesy Home Depot&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8A5fd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8A5fd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just work the tubing over the barb.  This is intended for a permanent connection and doesn't require any form of clamp; it isn't designed as a quick disconnect.  You can disconnect it, but you will probably need to warm the tubing to soften it, then push the tubing off rather than pull it off (think Chinese finger trap).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is an application where you will need to connect and disconnect often, I don't know how well the tubing will hold up to that.  If you use these connectors, I would leave the tubing a number of inches longer than required.  If the connection stops being water-tight due to disconnection/reconnection, snip off the worn end of the tubing to connect a fresh end.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T19:30:03.930" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T19:30:03.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6405" CreationDate="2019-08-22T21:37:00.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have luck with hitches or whippings. The former tends to involve attaching a rope to something, such as a piece of wood. The latter finishes the end of a rope to keep it from fraying, or finishes a piece of wood...to keep it from splintering? Both tend to have styles that can be repeated down a bit of wood making them both more secure and more attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have particular luck with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/west-country-whipping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;West Country Whipping&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/french-whipping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;French Whipping&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T21:37:00.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6413" CreationDate="2019-08-23T00:34:25.830" Score="4" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into putting together a Neil &quot;Crazy&quot; Craver costume. He is an athlete on American Ninja Warrior. He wears a lot of gold and decorates his chest and arms with gold stickers/temporary tattoos. Would washi tape stick to skin well enough to help me complete this look? I've never used washi tape, but I'm finding a bunch of great gold washi tape options online. Looking for opinions before I buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image of Neil &quot;Crazy&quot; Craver for reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-los-angeles-ca-usa-24th-aug-2016-neil-craver-at-arrivals-for-american-115890179.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-los-angeles-ca-usa-24th-aug-2016-neil-craver-at-arrivals-for-american-115890179.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T01:33:44.057" Title="Does washi tape stick on skin?" Tags="|costume-design|makeup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6334" CreationDate="2019-08-23T00:53:25.807" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a pretty consistent shape with a balloon. I feel a little silly suggesting it, but perhaps a large balloon and paper machete? The convex side would be fairly lumpy, but the concave side would be pretty smooth. You would be limited in the exact shape, though they would all be roughly parabolic. You could modify the shape somewhat by partially inflating the balloon and squeezing the side opposite the paper machete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T00:53:25.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6417" CreationDate="2019-08-23T01:21:11.540" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0CFx0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0CFx0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;catalog image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Saw this cutie in a catalogue.&#xA;I am loving this handle but am perplexed by how it works. &#xA;My closest guess is that the two colors are stitched into the fabric base after knotting. &#xA;Does anyone know the name of the shown/decorative knot and how to create the illusion of two colors originating at the base? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another closer pic &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M7W7c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M7W7c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quality is not good because it’s a pic of a picture in a catalog. I do not have the real thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T06:41:38.007" Title="Purse handle magic" Tags="|sewing|knots|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6410" CreationDate="2019-08-23T01:33:44.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3r5LP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3r5LP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;washi tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is washi tape. I often keep some on hand. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cn36s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cn36s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;on hand literally testing &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Ha ha, let’s test it on my hand. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7fJj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7fJj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;upside down sticking &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It stays on for a while, but doesn’t bend like adhesive bandages. So, once the edge pops up, it is compromised. Sweat or moisture will not keep it on. Removing it once compromises it as well. It might stick for a while depending on movement.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0WHko.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0WHko.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;edges lifted after moving tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T01:33:44.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6405" CreationDate="2019-08-23T02:05:51.433" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try to knot a monkeyS fist knot arround the wood althoug that might work better for cubic items. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/monkeys-fist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/monkeys-fist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add the item you want to add from the beginning, but I find it easier to add the knot into the ball shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8342" LastEditorUserId="8342" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T20:47:06.843" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T20:47:06.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6412" CreationDate="2019-08-23T03:13:31.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with you on how they likely attached the handle. For the knots themselves I believe they are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Offset_overhand_bend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Offset overhand bends&lt;/a&gt;, which is just an overhand knot with two strands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.animatedknots.com/flat-overhand-bend-knot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Animated knots has a how to&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T03:13:31.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6404" CreationDate="2019-08-23T04:04:09.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are assuming that most paintings use this certain perspective, which is not the case. A subset of paintings do and those are &lt;em&gt;landscape paintings&lt;/em&gt; which all of your examples consist of. This style typically uses two point perspective with the horizon parallel to the top and bottom of the frame. This could be considered &lt;strong&gt;landscape perspective&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common sense explanation is that this is how we normally see the world, and many artists are simply seeking to capture what they see, especially naive and/or traditional landscape painters as in the pictures above. Plus by selecting a specific genre of painting they by definition have the same perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are plenty of examples of &quot;landscape&quot; paintings that do not limit themselves to that POV, including landscapes painted from the birds-eye POV as in the last image. I would say in this day and age, with abstract, pop-art, cubism, and all the other genres there are probably as many if not more paintings that do not use traditional landscape perspective than those that do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-08-26T21:50:02.733" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T21:50:02.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6412" CreationDate="2019-08-23T06:22:57.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my eye, it looks like it may be a simple overhand knot in one cord with the other cord inserted through it.  The knots look more complex, but that may just be the cord flattening out at the knot (it may be a cover over a cord), or see other possible explanation below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGRZ8.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGRZ8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to see the construction of the purse loops.  That could be a piece of fabric that goes through the handle loop and then is stitched in place.  In that case, the two colors could be joined under the purse loop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the handles are a bit if an optical illusion, which would explain the apparent complexity in the knots.  Each handle may actually be one cord; the light-colored cord with a dark cover over roughly half of it.  The dark cover ends under the purse loops.  The joint of the two ends is concealed in one of the knots, looking like part of the knot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/30WJP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/30WJP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-08-23T06:41:38.007" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T06:41:38.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6404" CreationDate="2019-08-24T09:43:58.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are, arguably, three distinct viewpoints in linear perspective, all having to do with the viewing angle in relation to the ground plane:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PiUis.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PiUis.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Thibault - three distinct viewing points&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;J.T. Thibault, &quot;Application of Linear Perspective in the Graphic Arts&quot; (c.1860), via &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/perspect1.html#horizon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;handprint.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three are symbolized by the figure on the left, taking on three different positions in every picture. These viewpoints are very arbitrary, as they only serve a symbolic function, being relative to our daily experience (below, level with, and above our 'common sense' perspective of standing on the ground plane). All three take place on a relatively small arch in relation to the ground plane.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Notice that these viewpoints have nothing to do with the position of the (true) horizon in the picture, as this can shift up and down on the artist's whim, without him/her having to adjust his/her viewpoint.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Respectively, these viewpoints may be referred to as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A low viewpoint: (on-the-)&lt;em&gt;ground perspective&lt;/em&gt; or, using a term more commonly used in the world of photography and cinematography, the &lt;em&gt;low-angle shot&lt;/em&gt;. (More specific and extreme examples are &lt;em&gt;ant's view&lt;/em&gt; perspective, &lt;em&gt;worm's eye view&lt;/em&gt;, or, at least in Dutch, &lt;em&gt;frog's perspective&lt;/em&gt;);  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A 'normal' viewpoint. Set at the 'default' viewing height, i.e. the height of the eyes of an average person standing on the (virtual) ground plane. The pictures you provide in your question seem to be of this category. As I mentioned in the comments, it is the most commonly used viewpoint, because it is the perspective &quot;we see in&quot; - it is the most natural and acceptable of perspectives.&lt;/strong&gt; And; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A high viewpoint, also known as &lt;em&gt;bird's eye view&lt;/em&gt;, or &lt;em&gt;high-angle shot&lt;/em&gt; (or, in French, a '&lt;em&gt;vue plongeante&lt;/em&gt;', or 'plunging view').&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find the relative height of the viewpoint by looking at the objects that cross the horizon line, because &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;objects at the same height as the viewpoint are intersected by the true horizon line.&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the pictures you posted, this overlapping object is a palm tree or a sign post.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For example, the third picture on the second row seems to have a higher viewpoint than the second picture on the first row. It is still quite hard to judge the height of the observer (of us), though, because the palm tree could hang lower in the first picture I mentioned.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For a real assessment of the observer's (or artist's or photographer's) viewing height, there has to be something identifiable in the picture of which we can estimate the height, like a person, or even a brick wall or staircase, since these have commonly used dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that &lt;strong&gt;aerial perspective&lt;/strong&gt; is an ambiguous term, as it is, as far as I know, more commonly used as a synonym of &lt;em&gt;atmospheric perspective&lt;/em&gt; (which is the clearer term), which is the effect the atmosphere has on objects - more obvious at larger distances - where they gradually take on the colour (often blue) of the sky, an effect caused by scattering of the light rays. This effect is often enhanced by fog, but they're not really the same. As far as I know, it was introduced in painting by Leonardo da Vinci.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxGic.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxGic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Caspar David Friedrich, Nordische Landschaft (Frühling), ca. 1825&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Caspar David Friedrich, &quot;Nordische Landschaft (Frühling)&quot;, ca. 1825&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;* &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/perspect1.html#horizon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/perspect1.html#horizon&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-24T09:49:02.163" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T09:49:02.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3337" CreationDate="2019-08-24T23:52:39.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Revision&lt;/strong&gt; based on comments on the question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer originally suggested a microwave kiln.  Then I saw the discussion in the comments.  To start with the bottom line, you can't melt &lt;strong&gt;wine&lt;/strong&gt; bottles in a household oven.  If those are the only kind of bottles you are interested in, that's the end of the discussion.  However, you could probably do it with &quot;normal size&quot; bottles, and it would be inexpensive to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are apparently aware of the typical microwave kilns you can buy to melt small hunks of glass.  You can make a microwave kiln yourself, and I think a kiln designed for this purpose, with the proper procedure, would probably enable you to flatten bottles up to about beer bottle size, and in a reasonable amount of time.  They aren't wine bottles, but are a pretty similar variation on the theme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For readers unfamiliar with microwave kilns, here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B012EV9LES&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example of a typical kiln&lt;/a&gt; sold for melting glass chunks, or even metals, in your household microwave oven:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLVBp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLVBp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make your own, and you can shape and size it to your requirements.  Here's an Instructable that covers one design very well: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Microwave-Kiln-Fuse-Glass-in-Your-Microwave/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY Microwave Kiln | Fuse Glass in Your Microwave&lt;/a&gt;.  The materials are available on Amazon if you can't find them locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video in the linked Instructable shows some very tall microwave kilns made by the author.  He accommodated them by turning the microwave on its side and standing them in the long direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your only objective is to flatten bottles on their side, like the examples in your link, that would be simpler.  Rather than making a tall kiln and standing the microwave on its side, you could make a rectangular kiln that was squat, so it would cover much of the bottom of the microwave in its normal orientation, and be tall enough to accommodate the diameter of the bottle laying down.  To fit the tallest (longest) possible bottle, you could even make the kiln a little bit bottle-shaped (narrower at one end), and fit it diagonally inside the microwave.  With a large microwave, you could accommodate a bottle up to about beer bottle size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was some discussion in the comments about whether a microwave kiln generates enough heat to melt something the size of a bottle.  Given enough time, it would, but there's a way to speed up the process.  Preheat the bottle in a regular oven up to the maximum temperature of the oven.  Then put it in the microwave kiln.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot glass absorbs microwave energy; the hotter the glass, the more energy it absorbs.  The video in the Instructables link shows the glass turntable of a microwave getting hot enough to glow because the microwave was operated with the glass hot.  Preheating the bottle  helps in several ways -- the bottle is starting at a higher temperature, and then getting a temperature boost from the microwaves in addition to the heat generated by the kiln.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-08-26T00:08:23.503" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T00:08:23.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6205" CreationDate="2019-08-25T05:58:23.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;People have suggested many kinds of household materials that can be used for casting.  If you really want a resin that looks, feels, and acts like plastic, there are a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PVA glue (common white glue) will dry to a soft plastic, but with tremendous shrinkage, and it will redissolve if it gets wet, and can turn cloudy from absorbing humidity.  The shrinkage and drying time makes it impractical to cast 3D objects with it in one step.  But you can coat the mold with a layer, let that dry, then add another layer.  Repeat until you have a thick shell (and leave that hollow or fill it with something), or continue to add layers until it's solid.  It will be expensive, because you will need a ton of glue to yield a solid piece of PVA.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can improve on PVA glue with what's referred to as &quot;cold porcelain&quot;.  There's endless information and tutorials online, but it's basically a mix of PVA glue and gelatinized starch, plus a tiny amount of a conditioner, like mineral oil or glycerin.  It can be enhanced into an even tougher, more plastic-like material by adding a little stearic acid (used in manufacturing many cosmetics and personal care products, and available to hobbyists for candle-making, so it could be a household ingredient).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold porcelain has a consistency more like dough, so it's typically used like modelling clay.  But you can press it into a mold and get fine detail.  It shrinks a lot, so if matching the original size is important, you can do it in layers.  Line the mold with a thin layer, let it dry most of the way, add another layer, repeat.  The shrinkage will be mostly in the thickness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the additives, it dries translucent or white, rather than clear, or you can add food coloring to it to make a colored plastic.  You can reduce the shrinkage by mixing in a filler.  However, that makes it much stiffer.  You can also start with less water in the mix for the fill layers, which will reduce shrinkage.  Another trick is to start with less water, more starch, and not gelatinize all of the starch.  Once it's in place in the mold, you zap it in the microwave to gelatinize the remaining starch and it sets up in place as a solid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to experiment, you can make a bioplastic based on starch.  There are starch-based plastics and foams used commercially, but they have additives and processing steps that would be hard to replicate at home.  What you can make at home is rubbery to hard based on the ratio of ingredients.  It shrinks a lot so it isn't practical for most applications, but it's a fun material to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From ancient times Until World War 2, casein plastic was &quot;the&quot; plastic.  In the late 1800s, it was discovered that exposure to formaldehyde turns it into a tough, insoluble material that people think of as plastic today.  But even without formaldehyde, it is a moldable resin you can make at home.  The crude, cottage cheese stuff covered in how-to links on the Internet aren't really ready to use.  The instructions don't explain that the casein needs to have the impurities removed to become a putty-like material that's good for molding.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnXGZKCrktE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnXGZKCrktE&lt;/a&gt; for an explanation of how to make the good stuff at home.  You can also turn it into a flexible rubber by adding some sulfur.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzEujd7iEHU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzEujd7iEHU&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot melt glue can be used for casting as long as the mold can tolerate the heat (like a silicone mold).  It will capture fine detail.  It does shrink a little bit, though, so if you want to retain the size and contour of a thick mold, cover the mold with a layer, let it cool to the point that it's still good and warm, add another layer, repeat.  The clear sticks aren't &quot;optically clear&quot;, so you won't get a result that looks like glass.  If you want colored plastic, hot melt glue sticks are available in endless colors (including gold and silver), and things like glitter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can mold with actual recycled plastic rather than two-part resin.  PETE, which is the plastic used for most water, soda and juice bottles, is a good one because it melts into a liquid that flows well into the nooks and crannies of an open mold (which should be made of silicone rubber to tolerate the temperature).  You can verify the type of plastic from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resin_identification_code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recycling symbol&lt;/a&gt; if you aren't sure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of online tutorials on the details.  Here's one on using bottles: &lt;a href=&quot;https://sciencing.com/melt-plastic-bottles-molding-7894629.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Melt Plastic Bottles for Molding&lt;/a&gt;.  Most plastic you recycle won't be a pure resin, it will have additives to give it particular properties.  That will affect the melting temperature, and your oven temperature may be inaccurate.  So a certain amount of process adjustment is required.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The approach described in that link is to melt the plastic and pour it into the mold.  Another approach is to melt the pieces right in the mold.  Over-fill the mold with the plastic chips and heat it in your oven.  As the plastic melts, the liquid will take up less volume than the solid pieces, so you can add more plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're careful to build the temperature and then keep it at the minimum required to melt the plastic, there won't be much in the way of fumes.  But if you try to rush it with a higher temperature, some of the plastic will start to break down and you'll get some nasty smells.  It's generally best to use good ventilation. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can also cast polystyrene at room temperature using household ingredients.  There are lots of online tutorials for dissolving Styrofoam, but the following approach works best for good quality casting, and doesn't involve toxic fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collect clean Styrofoam.  White foam, like from package inserts, and styro cups and trays, will make almost clear polystyrene.  You can make colored plastic by using colored Styrofoam.  Meat is often packaged on black styro trays.  Egg cartons often use colored Styrofoam (but cut away any parts with printing).  Colored Styrofoam will become a solid, opaque color.  You can make tinted polystyrene by adding a small amount of colored Styrofoam to clear (white).  This is easier to control if you create the resins separately, then mix them and observe the color.  You can start with pieces of polystyrene instead of Styrofoam, but that will take a long time to dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Styrofoam will dissolve in endless solvents, but most will not produce a good casting resin.  Among other problems, and toxic fumes and fire hazard, there will be a lot of shrinkage and air bubbles trapped in the finished plastic (apparently from the evaporating solvent, since it happens even if the polystyrene solution is low viscosity and ages until no bubbles are left from the Styrofoam).  Limonene, a solvent made from citrus fruit, has all the right characteristics for a good finished product.  It's widely available as a general purpose cleaner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Styrofoam is 95-98% air, so the volume of polystyrene is only 2-5% of the foam you start with.  Styrofoam dissolves much slower in limonene than in solvents like acetone, so rather than a spectacular show of reducing Styrofoam to nothing before your eyes, you need a large airtight container, like a plastic paint storage bucket, to produce enough polystyrene to cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fit as much Styrofoam as you can in the container, and pour a few ounces of limonene over it.  Seal the container, wait half a day, and check it.  Push any chunks of Styrofoam into the liquid.  If you will need more polystyrene, add more Styrofoam.  If the dissolved Styrofoam is very thick (viscous), or there wasn't enough limonene to reduce the Styrofoam to a puddle of goo, add a little more limonene.  Once everything is dissolved and you have a little more than you will need, you can play with the consistency.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to start with a thick syrup, like honey or molasses, and you want all of the air from the Styrofoam to have dissipated so there are no bubbles in the liquid.  Over the course of a few days, the limonene will diffuse evenly throughout the resin.  Some of it will evaporate (even in the sealed container).  The resin will become a clear, uniform liquid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the limonene evaporates, the resin will become a gel.  You will be able to pull it away from the side of the container and it won't be sticky.  Prior to this point, some of the resin volume will be excess solvent, so there will be shrinkage of that percent when it dries.  Once it turns into a gel, there won't be much shrinkage; what shrinkage there is will be mostly in thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scoop the gel into the mold.  It will slowly flow into the nooks and crannies.  Wait for it to flow, then add more gel until you completely fill the mold.  Give it about a week for all the limonene to evaporate (you'll know it's finished when there's hardly any citrus aroma).  Then remove it from the mold.  The surface that was exposed to air should be very hard.  The surface against the mold should be solid, but may still be a little soft.  Set the casting mold-side up and let it dry for a few more days, especially if that side has any citrus aroma.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T22:54:37.333" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T22:54:37.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3070" CreationDate="2019-08-25T10:23:59.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a product (preferably spray-on) that would protect against grease or, at least, make the lantern cleanable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old question, but this is a recurring issue.  There's two parts to the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, it's possible to protect paper against grease and make it cleanable.&lt;/strong&gt;  I've protected inkjet photo prints on regular paper for hanging in a kitchen, and they were cleanable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I used&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coating needed to be smooth and clear for that purpose.  I used various clear, solvent-based spray finishes (clear enamel, polyurethane, etc.).  Some were better than others as far as not having any color cast and no bubbles (not a factor for this question), but they all worked as far as being cleanable, and none of them yellowed with age.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be cleanable, it should be solvent-based (look for &quot;aromatic hydrocarbons&quot; on the label), rather than a low-odor, water-based finish.  The latter can redissolve when you clean it.  I gave the pictures many coats so it saturated the paper and then had a thick surface coat.  It resembled lamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My situation was a little different, though.  The paper wasn't hanging right next to the stove.  There's a difference between a regular assault of heavy quantities of hot grease, and cold microscopic droplets that collect over time.  The difference in grease quantity also affects how often the paper needs to stand up to cleaning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional options&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grease and oil break down many plastics.  So even if you can clean the surface, the surface, itself, is being damaged.  The clear coat used for automotive finishes may be a good fit for this.  That needs to stand up to actual oil and other chemicals that a car finish is exposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an alternative that would probably work for an application like this question, but it wasn't suitable for photographs.  I've used it for other purposes, though.  It's clear silicone paint.  You can make it by diluting clear silicone adhesive or caulk with paint thinner until it's paint consistency.  You can apply it with a brush or make it the right viscosity for a paint sprayer (but you need to clean the sprayer as soon as you're done because the silicone residue won't dissolve in anything once it dries and cures).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give the paper a good coating.  Silicone isn't affected by oil or grease, or grease cleaners, and the coating sticks well to paper.  I've only cleaned such surfaces a few times.  It cleaned easily and the coating didn't come off.  But I don't know how it would hold up to regular cleaning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just starting the project, use baking parchment instead of regular paper.  That is silicone impregnated paper, so the result shouldn't need any treatment or coating.  (But I've never tested it to see how well it would perform.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A superhydrophobic coating like NeverWet might be a good solution.  In typical use, they may not hold up long, but that's due to things like constant flexing, exposure outdoors to mechanical assaults like the weather and strong UV light, etc.  Those things can degrade the surface that the coating is bonded to.  A static object indoors isn't exposed to those kinds of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coating works in a different way.  The grease has nothing to attach to.  If it doesn't fall off, you can lightly wipe it off; it doesn't need a cleaning process.  You could also periodically wipe it clean, then give it another coat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your paper isn't flat, which creates challenges both for coating and cleaning it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like 3D origami projections have paper partially covered by folds, and angled surfaces everywhere.  That makes it hard to reliably apply a coating in every nook and cranny.  There is a good chance of areas not getting well-treated.  They will become visible when grease settles there and changes the paper color (and nothing will fix that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning will be difficult because you can't apply much pressure, and getting at challenging areas with cleaning tools will be even harder than getting at them with a paint sprayer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These considerations are different from protecting a flat surface like a picture.  The best solution for this situation may be saturating the paper well with a product like NeverWet.  That will minimize grease sticking in the first place, and is cleanable with very little pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, I'd be tempted to try a two-step solution since failure to protect the paper would result in needing to discard the project.  I would first use one of the clear spray coatings, after verifying that the product is cleanable with paint thinner after it is dry.  Once it's dry, I would spray silicone paint, making sure folds and seams are well bridged.  The paint thinner in that will help it bond to the previous coating.  The two steps would ensure complete coverage, and the silicone top layer is cleanable without needing to apply much pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T10:23:59.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5348" CreationDate="2019-08-25T12:40:28.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Year-old question, but timeless subject matter.  You asked about the procedure.  For completeness, I'll add a little detail about that, and some thoughts on the paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The embossing powder is finely ground plastic that melts at a relatively low temperature.  You need to apply the powder to the paper only where you want it.  That's done by writing or printing  (or stamping) with a very slow-drying ink that's slightly tacky until it dries.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the ink is still wet, you sprinkle the powder on the paper.  It sticks to the ink but not the paper.  You shake off the excess powder and you have the writing or printing with a layer of plastic powder stuck to it.  When you heat it, the powder melts and forms a shiny raised layer of plastic on top of the ink, and fuses to the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most writing or printing, you want to be able to see what's on the page before adding the embossing.  So the desired ink color is used, then clear embossing powder is added on top.  If an exotic color is desired, like gold printing, that color of embossing powder can be used.  It's opaque, so you don't see the ink color under it.  If you use colored embossing powder and aren't concerned whether the printing is perfect (e.g., rubber stamp  artwork), you can even use &quot;clear&quot; ink that's just a tacky medium to hold the powder.  For that matter, you can add subtle clear embossed designs by using clear ink and clear powder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavyweight paper works great but isn't required.  Any paper is fine if it has a finish that accepts ink well (e.g., slow-drying ink doesn't spread), and is also suitable for a laser printer.  Laser printer toner is similar to embossing powder, and is similarly melted and fused to the paper with heat.  A wide variety of papers will work, but if you want an easy starting point for paper selection, use paper sold for use in both inkjet and laser printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T12:40:28.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-26T22:30:40.950" Score="2" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnmnD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnmnDl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;St. Mary from Atchison&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a religious statue made of plaster. Unfortunately, its hands are missing. I need to build new ones, but I am not sure where to begin. I thought I would make new hands out of clay, then cast them in plaster, but I wanted to check with others who might have better ideas. I know how to sculpt, but I have never cast before, nor repaired such a large statue before.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Additionally, the statue has been in storage in a VERY damp basement, and the wooden base under the statue's feet has rotted, making her feet crumble badly. I will post a separate question about replacing the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The statue is approx. 49 inches (125 cm) high, and base is approx. 15&quot; (38 cm) wide x 10&quot; (25 cm) deep. She weighs about 20 lbs (9 kg) (est.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8347" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T08:53:17.800" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T08:53:17.800" Title="How can I build and attach new plaster hands for a statue?" Tags="|preservation|sculpting|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-27T01:43:21.497" Score="6" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a religious statue that I would like to repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/83Owj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/83Owjl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;St Mary from Atchison&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it has been stored in a VERY damp basement, and its wooden base, underneath the plaster, is rotten, causing the plaster feet of the figure to crumble badly. The wood needs to be replaced, which means I will have to remove the crumbled feet and bottom of dress, and make new ones. I think I can do the sculpting and replastering, but the wood is beyond my experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with this kind of restoration? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The statue is approx. 49 inches (125 cm) high, and base is approx. 15&quot; (38 cm) wide x 10&quot; (25 cm) deep. She weighs about 20 lbs (9 kg) (est.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8347" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T08:57:02.493" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T08:57:02.493" Title="How do I replace a rotten wood base to a plaster statue?" Tags="|wood|restoration|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2019-08-27T02:50:51.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the question is really the math challenge in the title, and the explanation about drawing rectangles was just to make this on-topic here, you already have some good answers.  However, if the objective is actually drawing good rectangles, and the mention of right angles is just clarification of the problem, there's a simple approach that hasn't been mentioned yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper has perfect right angles at the corners and you can take advantage of that.  If you measure only along the edges of the paper, you don't have to worry about error due to the ruler not being perpendicular.  Use the ruler just for measuring and drawing straight lines.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say worst case is you need a rectangle somewhere in the middle of the page (if it is at a corner, that saves some work):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1JrX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1JrX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X and Y are the dimensions of the rectangle needed, and A and B are the distances from a corner.  Use the ruler to measure those distances along each edge of the paper and mark those locations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KU6Uj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KU6Uj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Align the ruler with the matching marks on opposite sides of the sheet and draw the connecting lines (clean up the lines beyond what's needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iQiQz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iQiQz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were precise, you've got your perfect rectangle with accurate right angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rectangle needs to be in an arbitrary rotation on the page, do the exercise above on another sheet of paper, but start the rectangle in a corner of the sheet.  There will be only X marks top and bottom, and Y marks on the sides, with one horizontal and one vertical connecting line.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will leave excess paper on just two sides of the rectangle.  Use the lines that run across the sheet as guides, align the sheet edges, and fold back the excess paper, making a sharp crease on the two folds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have a rectangle to use as a template.  Put it in the location and orientation required on the &quot;good&quot; sheet and trace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T02:50:51.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-08-27T06:38:44.127" Score="1" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have referred to most online resources to help myself understand the concept of &lt;strong&gt;cone of vision&lt;/strong&gt; in perspective drawing and I am still confused and don't fully understand the concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me understand the cone of vision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8351" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T10:01:54.253" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T10:01:54.253" Title="Cone of vision in perspective drawing" Tags="|drawing|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-08-29T21:49:55.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6431" CreationDate="2019-08-28T09:55:32.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no expert, but a simple Google search gave me a very clear answer. The &lt;code&gt;cone of vision&lt;/code&gt; is the spatial volume seen by a (dimensionless) observer inside an angle of 60&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &quot;calculate&quot; the envelope (margin) of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cone&lt;/a&gt;, you &quot;draw&quot; all the lines originating at the observer and being at an angle of 30&lt;sup&gt;o&lt;/sup&gt; away from the line of sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything outside this cone is considered &quot;out-of-sight&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For humans (and most living creatures possessing vision), there are two distinct cones of vision, one for each eye. The relative position of the two  cones varies greatly, depending on the relative position of the eyes (e.g., both eyes to the front, like humans, or eyes to the sides, lie fish). Eye movement leads to movement of the cone of vision.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For how to successfully use the concept of &quot;cone of vision&quot; in drawing, architecture or anything else, you need to get further knowledge on all these subjects.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T10:01:26.107" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T10:01:26.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7675" CreationDate="2019-08-28T14:09:28.740" Score="4" ViewCount="3391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spent months on this oil painting I'm working on, started in May of 2019. Guess you could say I am a beginner at painting with oil paints compared to other mediums.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Realized my paintings was starting to crack on the surface, after layers of oil paint. So I was doing some research on why it was doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently diluting the oil paint with linseed oil or something equivalent(turpentine is a cheap solution) to dilute the paint. Also called, 'fat over lean'. So you get a layered consistency, and then you keep using less and less of the solution with the oil paint, as the layers get fatter with oil.  If you put a layer that wasn't leaner than the previous one. All the layers that are working together will create craquelure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Craquelure is cracking on the surface of the painting, either from old age, or the layers closer to the surface drying before the underneath layers. Which would direct the result of the drying technique being the error. Not old age, resulting in a homogeneous texture.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(The image below is a small portion of the painting that has resulted in these cracks. It is the most visible cracks because of the color.)&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIYJn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIYJn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found in an older forum online about oil painting and cracking. That saturating the already dried oil paint with lineseed oil, over several hours, and gently dabbing the oil with a cloth. Over a few hours it will start to become flexible again. Then are able to go back in with a fatter oil and fill it back in. There are others that state to just throw the painting out, and start over. &#xA;Is there any good advice, to salvage an oil painting when it has begun to craquelure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T01:44:54.107" LastActivityDate="2019-11-03T18:15:43.330" Title="Cracking on surface of oil painting. Is there any other way to salvage an oil painting?" Tags="|paint|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6429" CreationDate="2019-08-28T16:48:08.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the original plaster covered the wooden base, which makes for excellent repair possibilities. Though removing the existing base may prove tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result you may not want to remove it at all. As Fixer1234 points out you may run into some additional problems if any of the armature is under tension from how it was attached to the wood, something we won't know until it either has or hasn't caused additional damage on removal of the base. As a result you could leave the base in place, and apply a wood hardener, which come in many brands but are resins and epoxies designed for filling in the damaged parts of wood making it firm again. Since the wood itself is not part of the visible statue, you could save a lot of trouble simply by leaving it in place and letting the plaster restoration cover it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation that the wood is really crumbling away, as in you can peel it off with your fingers, the wood hardener won't work very well. Though at that point removing it should be pretty easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all of the below possibilities, use hand tools. The vibration of a power drill or other tool might help shake the base loose, but it is more likely to do damage to the statue. Additionally you may want to trace the outline of the original base before pulling it off, in case it is destroyed in removing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After she is completely dry. I would lay her on something soft and look underneath the wooden base to see if there is any obvious attachment to the rest of the statue, you may find that an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armature_(sculpture)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;armature&lt;/a&gt; has been bolted to the wooden base and goes through the plaster statue to help support it from falling under its own weight.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W9FjE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W9FjE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Armature&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a bolt remove it. Then give the base a bit of a jiggle see if it just comes loose. Not much, just enough to shake loose any plaster touching the wood. It is quite possible that even if there is a bolt, it is not the only thing holding the armature to the base. So...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see anything bolted, or the jiggle didn't pop off the base. The armature likely is many smaller, still heavy, wires that fit into holes drilled into the wooden base, and probably glued into place. For 20 pounds at 49 inches I would guess that she is hallow. Which is useful as you can probably get an idea of where the armature is attached to the base if you can see inside. Looks like the damage between her feet might offer a place to look. If you can identify any attachments to the base you may have some luck pulling the wood out from behind them. If it is really rotten wood it will come away quickly, and even mostly ok wood can be removed with careful scraping from some wood carving tools, such as a gouge or a small chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not finding how the base is attached you might want to trim off bits of it in layers. If the wood is significantly rotten, it will fall away by itself. Otherwise either without a hammer, or with the lightest tap of a hammer put the chisel at parallel with the grain of the wood near the bottom and twist it a little bit to pull a chip off. It would be slow, but you could potentially pull the whole base off in chips. I would only really do this if the wood is rotten to the point that it is easy to do, if it is still pretty hard, I would get impatient and rely too much on the hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the base off, a new one will be fairly straight forward. Take your tracing, or the original base, and place it on a new piece of wood of the right thickness. Trace out the oval shape. You can cut it out with a hand saw, just cut out corners until it sufficiently resembles an oval. If you're comfortable working with them, a table saw or jigsaw would work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there were holes drilled in the original for the armature to fit in, put some chalk on the bottom of each armature wire and bump the fresh base into them so there is a chalk mark for where to drill the holes. If there was a larger rod bolted through the base, drill the hole for this first (can use the chalk method here too) then go back for the smaller wires if they are also present such that the base can now reach them without getting caught on the main support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best part about it, is if the cut for the new base isn't perfect, it will be covered by plaster when you're done, so no one will see it. As such you shouldn't need to make a jig or similar to cut it out, by eye should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="8270" LastEditDate="2019-08-28T17:44:19.537" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T17:44:19.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2019-08-28T23:30:35.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before going farther, there are some plastics that can be safely melted at home with good ventilation as long as you use the right procedure (warm it slowly and don't exceed the temperature needed to melt it), and some plastics that give off toxic fumes when they melt, so you should never try to melt those indoors.  Do your research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question asks about the mold material.  High-temperature silicone rubber will handle most kinds of melted plastic.  You can also use materials like clay (fired) and plaster.  So that part's easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most common thermoplastics melt at temperatures a household oven can reach.  So yes, you can melt almost any thermoplastic at home.  That part is also easy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard part is how to do the molding.  As the other answers point out, you can't simply pour most kinds of melted plastic into a mold.  Most thermoplastics don't become a thin liquid that will flow into nooks and crannies of a complex mold by gravity.  They become like sticky putty. That's why they are generally forced into a mold under pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that isn't the end of the story.  For some applications, you can still mold those plastics at home without special equipment, and there are a few plastics that do become a liquid that you can pour into a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The plastics that become very viscous are commonly pressed into sheets or blocks that can be cut and machined to make stuff.  People do it at home with no special equipment; there are lots of online links to that.  But these plastics can also be molded into simple shapes, and even pressed into simple open molds.  Molds with deep fine detail, or complex two-part molds, require equipment you aren't likely to have at home.  But I've molded simple items out of HDPE.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mold has to be strong enough to not distort under pressure.  For simple shapes, you can make the mold out of wood (I've made things like brackets that way).  To copy an item and capture detail, you can make a mold out of silicone rubber that is contained inside a wooden frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You scoop the melted plastic into the mold and slightly over-fill it.  Then cover it with baking parchment and a board (and a board under the mold if the bottom isn't solid).  Clamp the top board against the mold.  The plastic can flow slowly, so tighten the clamps after a few minutes.  If the board bottoms out against the mold, open it up and add a little more plastic.  If it is a small mold and the plastic has cooled, remove the plastic, remelt it, and start over using more plastic.  Repeat the clamping process.  When the plastic is cool, remove the clamps and it's ready (you will probably need to trim off some flash).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some plastics do melt into a pourable liquid that you can cast.  Here are a few common ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Embossing powder.  There's a whole craft industry built around the hobby of casting small items with this.  The powders are proprietary, but a chemist who dabbles in stuff like this guessed that they are primarily acrylic powder and posted videos on making your own by precipitating it from acrylic floor polish.  (Couldn't locate the original, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.observationsblog.com/sciencetechnologyexperiments/embossing-powder-made-at-home&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's a summary&lt;/a&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DIY powder works for embossing, but I've never tested it for melt and pour.  The powder would be expensive though; the floor polish isn't cheap, and the acrylic is just a small portion of it.  If the commercial embossing powder is mostly acrylic, it might be possible to break up acrylic plastic sheets from the hardware store and melt that (never tried it).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot melt glue.  It shrinks a little when it cools, but you can minimize that by coating the mold with a layer.  Let it cool a little.  While it is still very warm, add another layer.  Repeat until the mold is full.  It's probably softer than you tend to think of as plastic, but it's a handy material for quickly turning out items that don't need to stand up to abuse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PETE is the plastic usually used for water, soda, and juice bottles.  It melts to a liquid phase that can be poured into molds.  I've also used molds made by forming or embossing aluminum sheets or soda cans, then melting the plastic right in the mold.  You'd never guess it from the soft bottles, but when you melt PETE into a molded block, it is very hard, extremely tough stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T23:30:35.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6427" CreationDate="2019-08-29T05:25:15.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your intention to salvage the statue is well placed. However, as already stated in a comment, your biggest enemy here is the fact that the &lt;strong&gt;structural&lt;/strong&gt; integrity of the statue is affected, and therefore not reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before fixing the details, you should make sure that the statue can survive the repairs, instead of completely collapsing together with said repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To verify the extent of the structural damage, you should carefully remove everything that can be removed - as in &quot;disassemble the statue&quot;. You will understand better the skeleton it was built on (I see some wood &quot;stick&quot; inside the arm). Make lots of pictures, number the fragments...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to have good glue, compatible with the material of the statue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I would fix the base, before anything else. Otherwise, the base will allow the entire statue to be destroyed at some time later. Even a small accident will render all previous work useless, while trying to fix the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: this appears to be a not-so-easy task. Even if it is not worth hiring a professional to do all the work, you may still contact a local professional for some advice - he will be able to see what cannot be seen in a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disassembling should not scare you too much - the statue needs a new layer of paint anyway - at least after de-molding and removal of exfoliated paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T08:21:03.890" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T08:21:03.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5359" CreationDate="2019-08-30T00:41:36.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question but from the number of views, other people have a similar interest.  Nothingismagick's answer addresses how to make multiple beads.  I'll address two holes in the discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For molding small parts like beads, you don't want to start with crude cottage cheese.  That's the result of the first step in the process; the material needs additional refinement.  The cottage cheese chunks result from impurities left in the casein.  These can be removed with subsequent steps that redissolve the casein and reprecipitate it.  The result is a uniform putty that is moldable.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnXGZKCrktE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnXGZKCrktE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other hole in the discussion is the holes.  If you are using a mold tray that has a series of bead molds nicely aligned, this is a solution you can reuse.  It takes a little precision work to make, though.  The holes can be molded into the beads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use something like paint stirrers to make a frame around the mold to which you fasten a paint stirrer centered over each row of bead molds.  This is to keep everything aligned.  Take very accurate measurements of the location and spacing of the center of the hole for each bead, and transfer this to the paint stirrers.  You may be able to do this by taping a piece of paper over the top or bottom of the mold and doing a &quot;pencil rubbing&quot;.  That will be easier to measure; you may even be able to mark the wood through it with pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use large, long straight pins with a diameter a little larger than the filament you will use to string the beads.  Use a drill press or equivalent to drill tight-fitting holes for the pins in the paint stirrers at the marked locations, ensuring the holes are perpendicular.  Drill the same size holes in the center of the bottom of each bead mold.  Push the pins through the paint stirrers far enough so they poke through the bottom of the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the hole maker from the mold.  Press the casein into the molds to fill them.  Lubricate the pins with a thin coat of oil or soap.  Then carefully align the hole maker and press it into place until the pins exit the bottom of the mold.  Leave it in place until the beads are dry.  When you remove it, the beads will have holes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could experiment with a batch of beads where you insert the pins and then immediately remove them.  That may compress the casein and the holes may partially close when you remove the pins.  The beads may also shrink a little as they dry, which would reduce the hole diameter.  If removing the pins leaves too small a hole when the beads are dry, you could drill or ream them out (or discard them).  If the holes are reliably smaller by a particular amount, you could start with bigger pins to end up with the hole size you need.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T00:41:36.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4279" CreationDate="2019-08-30T02:38:53.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using a two-part pourable silicone, you can make a mold of the item with a reusable gelatin-glycerin mold material you can make at home.  There are a lot of variations on the formula resulting in different characteristics.  The material, itself, is also molded into special effects prosthetics instead of using latex rubber.  To investigate the variations, Google &amp;quot;gelatin glycerin reusable mold&amp;quot;.  A good start is &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20210118155449/http://www.observationsblog.com/sciencetechnologyexperiments/reusable-molding-material-homemade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt; by a chemist who dabbles with stuff like this to refine it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You warm the material in a microwave oven and it turns into a liquid.  You pour that over the item in a form or container.  When it cools, it's a rubbery mold of the item that captures fine detail and is dimensionally stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't cast hot materials in it because that would melt the mold.  For resins that are very exothermic, you can often freeze the mold and then use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get several uses from a mold.  Then you just warm it back to a liquid and make a new mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material has a long shelf life.  You can make a big batch of it, use what you need for a particular mold, then either save the mold or melt it and add it back to the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-08-10T18:51:33.657" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T18:51:33.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2019-08-30T14:23:38.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the art store stuff is better filtered and cooked differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that the main risk is early yellowing-browning....that being said I have used it in the past and I have paintings done 15-20 years ago using very liberal oil amounts (painting in layers, glazes: a very small amount of pigment diluted in a lot of oil), and i haven t noticed any color shifts or browning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that if you use small amounts of oil or if you sell your paintings it's safer to stick to the art store type.&#xA;If you use a lot of oil, and as you mentioned for cleaning brushes, and the end result isn't critical, then sure do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( side note :I feel there is too much emphasis on &quot;archival&quot;, last 100's of years, do it right or don't bother, from so many painters when the sad truth is that their paintings are extremely unlikely to survive them, if they even make it that far,  while some artists can paint using Mayonaise and if they are great, there will always be ways to preserve their work)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( And side-side note, most of the museum grade classical painting were painted using crap, there was no quality control and no purification or controlled manufacturing processes, the pigments were often unevenly grounded full of impurities, unstable, mixed with bad oils and additives and some ingredients used were organic and decayed...for instance  Indian Yellow was most likely made from the urine of Indian cows on a diet of mango leaves, Wikipedia has a good article on it....moreover some of the things we admire in classical paintings are actually due to &quot;improper&quot; conservation and &quot;faulty&quot; mediums)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: just realized this is a very old question, though it was new. anyways, hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T15:27:29.387" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T15:27:29.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3983" CreationDate="2019-08-31T01:24:10.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question and kind of a unique situation.  But if anyone else wanted to try this, the existing discussion doesn't really address what's required.  This is a perspective problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your field of view is like a cone.  The farther the distance, the more you see both horizontally and vertically, and the smaller items appear.  The item up close occupies more of your visual field than the same item far away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the tilted picture, the bottom of the frame is close and it gradually gets farther away as you get to the top.  Think of the frame as a slice of your perspective.  The top of the frame will look narrower than the bottom because it is farther away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you adjust the image needs to reflect what you want to achieve with the perspective.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you want the image to look like a normal, vertical image despite being tilted?  If so, you would need to shape it like a wedge, getting both taller and wider moving to the top.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want the image to look like it would if the objects in the picture were tilted away from you, don't adjust anything.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to accentuate the distance even more (the question mentions a mountainous landscape), you would need to shrink in both width and height going toward the top of the image.  Also, when dealing with great distances (the horizon), the shrinkage isn't linear between you and the horizon.  The closer objects are to the horizon, the smaller the increment between a given distance interval on the ground, but vertical distances are still uniform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are starting with a photograph of mountains in the distance, that image already contains the perspective, and will look correct when viewed vertically.  Viewing it at an angle, you are introducing more perspective adjustment.  For the image to continue to look correct, you would need to unadjust for the perspective added by tilting the picture.  That is basically what's described in the first bullet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T01:24:10.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2019-08-31T07:07:36.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about producing greeting cards in high volumes, that sounds like you're either planning to sell them or send them for business purposes.  Neither an inkjet or laser printer will produce cards that look professionally made.  You can get results good enough to send to family and friends, or business associates, but they won't match a commercial card and will look a bit amateurish up close.  For professional looking results, you would need something like a dye-sublimation printer, or letterpress or offset printing equipment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dye-sub printers are what you typically find at a photo shop.  The printers aren't cheap, and consumables can run on the order of several dollars per full-size page.  But small, affordable ones are available, especially if your cards will be smaller than a full-size page (many can handle 6x8 paper, which would fold to a 4x6 card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Letterpress and offset printing isn't &quot;home size&quot; equipment, although there are &quot;hobbyist&quot; desktop letterpress printers for dabbling with limited volume runs (see for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boxcarpress.com/blog/l-letterpress-startup-costs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.boxcarpress.com/blog/l-letterpress-startup-costs/&lt;/a&gt;).  Letterpress is suited to relatively simple designs and no more than a few colors.  It's a very long manual process to set up.  Offset printing requires commercial equipment.  Both letterpress and offset printing require training and experience (as well as a big investment).  Unless you want to start a commercial card business, there are lots of local and web-based services that will do the printing for you, and the cost is often in the neighborhood of what you would spend on consumables doing it with a home printer.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If home printing results will be adequate for your needs, here are some considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Laser printing basically sucks for most kinds of greeting cards.  They print everything using primary colors and relatively low resolution.  Forget anything involving a photo, pastel colors, or gradients.  The resolution and dot size just aren't sufficient for good-looking, accurate color, light colors that don't look grainy, smooth gradients, or a full dynamic range.  If you've ever seen color brochures with photos printed on a laser print, you know.  If the cards are just text and simple graphics it might be good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy glossy card stock for laser printers, but what I've seen tends to be pretty thick.  You would need a printer with a straight paper path that can take card stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser toner adheres well to paper for the short term, but it is less reliable for long-term purposes.  Card stock can be a problem unless the printer adjusts for paper thickness.  When the paper starts to age, toner can flake or scratch off.  If you print in quantity and stack the cards for storage, the toner can adhere to the  card next to it, and transfer to the other card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For inkjet printing, you would want a photo-quality printer, and likely a high-end one to handle the job.  You would probably also want to convert it to a continuous ink supply system (external ink tanks).  It would need to handle card stock, although many of the printer manufacturers sell card paper designed to run through their machines (it's more expensive than standard card stock, but has a nicer finish and is designed for high-resolution inkjet printing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get archival paper and ink for inkjet printers.  They won't show signs of aging after long storage, and will hold up to a little handling (but they aren't as robust as a commercial card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A card with text and some simple graphics won't use much ink.  But edge-to-edge photo printing, solid background colors, and the like, use way more ink than the &quot;standard page&quot; on which capacity and ink costs are based.  A standard page is based on 5% coverage.  Edge-to-edge photo printing is 100% coverage, so the per-page ink cost will be about 20 times as much (and you'll purchase ink 20 times as often), unless the manufacturer states capacity or cost for full-page photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cards have more than text and simple graphics, a high-end inkjet photo printer will yield the best looking home-printed results (except for a dye-sub printer).  However, the consumables cost may be higher than having the cards professionally printed.  A spot check showed 200 large, folded, glossy, photo greeting cards, printed inside and out, and shipped to my home, for about $0.75 each.  And that saves the cost of buying a printer and dealing with maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T07:07:36.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3801" CreationDate="2019-08-31T20:16:22.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question asks whether there is another type of paper that would be less delicate.  Here are some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shoji screens have to stand up to handling, so a number of manufacturers use a synthetic material instead of paper.  A few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A paper-like fiberglass fabric that's cleanable and nearly indestructible.  For example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eagerplastics.com/shojiscreen.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.eagerplastics.com/shojiscreen.htm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've seen references to a product called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tapplastics.com/product_applications/synskin_windows&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Synskin from Tap Plastics&lt;/a&gt; used by some shoji screen makers.  It's some kind of translucent or frosted plastic film or very thin sheet, but I couldn't find details on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shoji screens are sometimes made with what looks like paper but is actually either a plastic-laminated shoji paper or a a paper print film laminated between sheets of acrylic.  For example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shojidesigns.com/materials/warlon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.shojidesigns.com/materials/warlon.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moving away from materials typically used where rice paper would be used, there are non-woven synthetic fabrics that can be similar or can be used for a similar purpose.  If you need relatively small pieces, you can cannibalize it from disposable hair covers, beard protectors, or accordion-folded dust masks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j78BT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j78BT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0725QKTTX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJfvg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jJfvg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07WDPLSR1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to paint the material, something as thin as the beard mask above wouldn't be suitable.  These kinds of materials can also be bought in sheets and rolls sold for applications like dust covers under upholstered furniture, dust filters on ducts and air vents, and interfacing in clothing.  Featherweight/lightweight versions range from nearly see-through to translucent, and it is much tougher stuff than rice paper.  Pellon is one of the big manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tyvek may be a substitute and is nearly indestructable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that everything listed here is some form of synthetic material.  If you want to paint it, water colors probably won't adhere well.  You would need to use an appropriate kind of paint.  Permanent markers, like Sharpies, generally stick to these materials and are available in a wide variety of colors.  Some of the Pellon materials have a surface resembling felt.  If you want to paint the material, consider the surface texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T20:16:22.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7717" CreationDate="2019-09-01T04:36:35.520" Score="5" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just acquired a new loveseat for my apartment that's in desperate need of reupholstering. Here's the problem: the cushions are (or were) stuffed with wool. I have some experience with reupholstering furniture in the past, but I've never worked on something like this before and I can't seem to find any information that might give me an estimation on how much I'd need to re-stuff these cushions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rule of thumb for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T18:09:04.497" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T18:09:04.497" Title="Estimating the amount of wool stuffing needed for a project" Tags="|fabric|restoration|stuffing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3915" CreationDate="2019-09-01T04:50:43.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might be wrong but you sound like you're at the beginning of the research phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing not mentioned in the excellent answers already given, is that paper or card stock come in many different thicknesses, and is measured (at least here in OZ) in grams per square metre (gsm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, photocopy paper is 80 gsm, and card stock might be 200 gsm or even more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As every laser and inkjet printer has a maximum thickness it can print, you'll need to get a swatch of paper samples from a printer or paper manufacturer. These will show what each gsm feels like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note too that some papers will actually be thicker even when they are the same gsm, simply because the fibres are less dense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be starting at the end product in terms of paper thickness and reproduction quality and putting together a set of minimum specs for yourself. Every printer made will list the maximum paper thickness it can handle. What thickness they can feed and print reliably without jamming is something reviews might tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image quality is another story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T04:50:43.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2019-09-01T05:03:07.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many plastics, including ABS can be chemically welded.  The result will be as strong as the original plastic.  Thin parts may not have much surface area to join, and you may see a visible &quot;melt&quot; line at the repair.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joining broken parts is essentially the same process as building things with a material like Lucite.  You put the pieces together with a tight-fitting joint, then use a micro-pipette or syringe to apply solvent to the joint and nowhere else.  Capillary action draws the solvent into the joint (which is why it needs to be tight-fitting, and why not much solvent is required).  It isn't necessary to dissolve a huge amount of the material into a blob of plastic that runs together.  The welding happens right at the mating surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For repairing broken parts that fit together tightly, a common technique is to fit the parts together, then use tape on one side to hold them in place.  Apply the solvent on the other side.  Once the joint is dry, remove the tape and check that side.  On a really thick piece, the solvent may not wick all the way through the crack, in which case you can add a little solvent on that side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're repairing broken parts that no longer mate tightly, you need a different method.  You will need a filler material for the gaps.  That's typically done by dissolving some of the same type of plastic in the solvent (most plastic cements are a mix of solvents and some dissolved resin; for welding, the cement needs to contain appropriate solvents and the same type of resin).  Apply a thin layer to both broken edges, then push the pieces together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link, &lt;a href=&quot;http://nerfhaven.com/forums/topic/18527-intro-to-solvent-welding-plastic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intro To Solvent Welding Plastic&lt;/a&gt;, gives a list of suitable welding solvents for all the major types of plastics.  I would test some of those first, though.  For example, it lists acetone as a welding solvent for polyethylene and polypropylene, but my recollection is that dissolving would be too slow to be useful for welding.  Similarly, methylene chloride is listed as not a solvent for ABS, but it's commonly the main ingredient of commercial ABS welding solvents.  As for ABS, acetone, or a mix of acetone and other solvents, is commonly used for welding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the common solvents are available in the paint department in big hardware stores.  There are also commercial solvent mixes sold in small bottles for this purpose.  A little goes a long way, and the mix is optimized for specific types of plastics.  But you'll spend almost as much for a few ounces of the proprietary magic mix as buying a big can of a specific solvent at a hardware store.  That said, I've used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.micromark.com/SAME-STUFF-APPLICATOR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this solvent and applicator from Micro-Mark&lt;/a&gt; pretty extensively, and both are great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mInH7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mInH7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-01T05:20:47.453" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T05:20:47.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-02T01:44:39.523" Score="4" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what method is used to create those grooves in the wood? Someone has an idea? More images here : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.circlefactory.com/new-page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/To3bC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/To3bC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8365" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T22:01:56.763" Title="What method is used to achieve this look?" Tags="|wood|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6451" CreationDate="2019-09-02T02:45:22.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the description in the link you provided. It looks like most of the cut marks were done with a flat chisel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There a lot of textures going on in more than just one picture, to pin point exactly what texture is going on with each one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience working with tools for a living. That the texture appears to be done with a cutting wheel, or grinding wheel with angle grinder. As well used with a wood chisel, flat chisel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2019-09-03T00:15:55.173" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T00:15:55.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6451" CreationDate="2019-09-02T08:45:40.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think a chainsaw was used to get this look&lt;/strong&gt;. The grooves seem deeper in the middle, suggesting a curved shape. The middle parts could then easily have been chipped away by chisel or hammer, or even broken away by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=chainsaw%20wood%20art&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wood art&lt;/a&gt; is created this way, and these grooves usually serve as a starting point for getting the rough form out of a block of wood. Obviously, it's quite beautiful on its own, as well, exposing and emphasizing the natural texture and shapes of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T08:45:40.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6451" CreationDate="2019-09-02T20:54:38.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many pictures in your link, and they use a mix of techniques.  This will be easier to address if you identify specific ones.  The one you put in your question looks like two kinds of actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slots look like a circular saw was pressed into the wood, centered over the textured area.  My first impression of the background texture looked like a wood carving wheel on an angle grinder used in different directions.  There are different types available.  Here are a few used for rough shaping (images courtesy of Home Depot):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nPD2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nPD2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zZFjm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2zZFjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the initial rough shaping of the &quot;trough&quot; may have been done that way.  Some of the surface grooves are long arcs that are narrow and clean, so they may have been done with a sanding disk or reinforced fiber cut off wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the actual finished surface you see couldn't have been done that way. &#xA;Closer examination shows that the texture stops abruptly at the slots, and varies substantially from one side of the slot to the other.  A large diameter circular tool couldn't be used to do that.  The only tool I can think of that would let you do flat, independent depths between slots would be chisels.  So a lot of meticulous work went into that piece, despite how rough it looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: computercarguy's comment on the question gives the size of the piece, which was a good catch.  The artist is American, so I assume the dimensions are in inches rather than centimeters, and that seems to bear out based on the width of the slots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to agree with the comment about the slots not being made by plunging a circular saw.  A circular saw could still have been used by setting it to a shallow depth and then moving it to achieve the desired slot length.  That would be a consistent kind of tool choice if the rough shaping was done with an angle grinder, and the angles of the slots would be consistent with making the slots by eye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close examination of an enlargement of the picture shows that the slots have varying widths.  The narrowest are 1/8&quot; wide, which is the thickness of a typical full kerf blade.  The widest is roughly double that, which indicates that most of the slots were made in two passes, probably using a guide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Congenital Optimist's guess of a miter saw is possible if it was a sliding miter saw and the artist used good depth control, but the cuts aren't parallel.  The piece could have been slotted at various angles, though.  Another possibility is a mini circular saw.  They have a small diameter blade that can be moved across the piece.  However, I think those have a thinner blade, which wouldn't be consistent with the slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-05T22:01:56.763" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T22:01:56.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6451" CreationDate="2019-09-04T21:43:57.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Miter saw was probably used to make the cuts, by moving the block of wood in half/quarter inch steps. Individual cuts have different depth (and thus the width) but more or less same center, which makes me think of miter saw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chopped up wood was then simply hammered out and the whole block was stained or burned with  gas torch to make it darker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the front surface was planed or sanded, which turned the flat part lighter again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4569" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T21:43:57.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-05T13:21:08.613" Score="6" ViewCount="1615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looking into getting a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Storage-Organization/Storage/All-Media-Artists-Supply-Sketch-Box/p/5227&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hobby Lobby wooden artist box / case&lt;/a&gt; fitted to that can place my gaming cards into it. One of the issues is where the lid closes and vertical object located near there will rub against the list. This is fine for dividers and other hard objects but I have damaged paper and cards by accident this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/krbxL.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/krbxLm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hobby Lobby Hinged Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to compensate for this.. namely not allowing delicate object to rest against the front or creating a lip on the inside that is the height of the cards. However I read &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt; that a person replaced the hinges with ones that &quot;allowed the box lid to close straight down&quot;. I can't figure out what that means. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a hinge that would allow a lid to close straight down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T05:28:23.273" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T15:54:07.287" Title="How can I get a wooden box to close straight down?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6456" CreationDate="2019-09-05T14:37:48.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that what you may be seeking is going to be called a four-bar linkage hinge. I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodgears.ca/tool_holders/toolchest.html#vid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;great video&lt;/a&gt; showing how it works in a tool box lid, specifically to clear a carrying handle, but your requirements would not necessarily include that much range of movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the above link, there is another link to images that show the process involved in creating the correct lengths for the linkages. Four-bar linkages are typically complex to create, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Na8U8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; does an admirable job of simplifying things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyOGC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyOGC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;four bar linkage final image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the last image of the above link, the end-view of the handle is &quot;involved&quot; in the diagram, but if you need only ninety degrees of travel, you can stop the arc at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A four bar linkage in this use causes the lid to move away from the box simultaneously as it rotates around the pivots created during the construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attempted to locate off-the-shelf hinges of this nature without success. Most of the returns from the search resulted in vertical lift doors, with larger linkages than one might consider ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T14:37:48.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-05T16:43:40.300" Score="2" ViewCount="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first foray into casting. Forgive the question if its basic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to cast an object to act as a vibration damper. The initial positive would be 3d printed using something like Polymaker Polycast. It looks like the silicon rubber that is normally used to make molds would be a good option as the casting material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular material that is a better acoustic/vibration insulator? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8375" LastEditorUserId="8375" LastEditDate="2019-09-05T18:06:15.830" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T20:26:40.863" Title="Casting Elastomers as Acoustic Insulators" Tags="|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="105" CreationDate="2019-09-05T17:59:25.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need an appropriate bit for glass.  Depending on the size of the hole, that would commonly be a tungsten carbide drill bit, diamond burr, or a diamond hole saw (I'm referring to this type, which you can buy in just the size you need or sets of sizes; they aren't expensive):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ5Yb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ5Yb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy Amazon&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent shattering, you need to dampen the vibrations.  When you score a piece of glass and then tap the score with the back end of the scoring tool,you don't hit it hard enough that the force of the blow breaks the glass; a light tap creates vibrations, and the glass breaks itself.  Similar action causes glass to shatter when you try to drill it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a cool demonstration for kids of cutting a glass microscope slide cleanly with scissors.  The secret is doing it under water, like submerged in a basin.  You can do the same thing with a bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a basin or plastic tub big enough to hold the entire bottle submerged under water.  Get the bottle under water and completely filled with water.  Use a long flexible extension for a drill or Dremel tool like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCmEz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCmEz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;em&gt;&lt;Sup&gt;Image courtesy Amazon&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the drilling under water, maintaining control of the bottle and tool, and using normal hand pressure to drill.  You won't have the alignment afforded by a drill press, but if you start lightly to establish a mark, you will be able to keep the bit in the same location without it wandering.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the thickness of the glass, it may take a little time to drill all the way through.  Just take your time and be patient.  The water will lubricate and cool, as well as dampen vibrations.  When you're done, blow any water out of the chuck with compressed air and dry the extension and bit well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T17:59:25.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6456" CreationDate="2019-09-05T18:25:42.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can remove the front edge of the lid, then reattach it with hinges. You might have to replace the clasps with a different style, but this allows you to move the lip of the lid out of the way before opening it. You may also have to add clasps for the corners of the lid, so it reinforces the structural integrity of the lid, now that it's no longer firmly glued on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing needed to cut out the front is a basic coping saw, which is cheap and easy to source. The coping saw can be used to cut with a push, to avoid tear out on the front, and the minimal angle created because of the saw end attachments won't be noticeable. And if you follow the inside edge of the box lid with the blade, you'll get a decently straight line. With the tiny kerf of the blade, it'll be about the same gap as creating a new front. Matching the color and wood is more difficult than anything I suggest, even with veneers, if you thought about just replacing it. And adding the new clasps on the sides will help with stabilization when it's closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either hinge the front from the top or the bottom. Since there's already clasps on the bottom edge, you might just do the top. However, if you need/want to replace the clasps, you might do it like the case shown below. You probably don't need piano hinge, but rather just 2-3 simple small brass hinges, like the two already on the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get the hinges and even the replacement clasps back at Hobby Lobby, too, for a relatively inexpensive price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.judsonsart.com/products/guerrilla-painter-9x12-hinged-front-guerrilla-box&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.judsonsart.com/products/guerrilla-painter-9x12-hinged-front-guerrilla-box&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to go through the trouble of modifying the box that much, you can try finding other boxes that come that way. They aren't common, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastEditorUserId="6228" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T15:54:07.287" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T15:54:07.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6456" CreationDate="2019-09-05T19:53:08.027" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to use fancy hinges to fix the problem.  The admittedly crude diagram, below, is a cross section of the box and lid (the dot on the right is the hinge).  The arc is the path of the inside edge of the front of the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPo7Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPo7Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rectangular white space inside the lid is where contents can fit when the lid is closed.  But the arc when the lid opens and closes chops off the corner of the contents area, which is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can fix it by removing a wedge of material from the inside edge of the lid.  Use a little geometry, or stick a block of something inside the box or tray that just fits in height when the lid is closed.  With the lid open, push the block against the front of the box and close the lid.  You can use a material like carbon paper so the inside edge of the lid marks the block where it hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a small margin for clearance and transfer that dimension to the front bottom edge of the lid, measuring from the inside edge.  The wedge to remove goes from there to the top inside corner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kfbgf.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kfbgf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wedge can be removed with a Dremel tool, chisel, carving knife, or other suitable tool.  Not a lot of material will need to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approximation should be close enough.  But if you really want it perfect, calculate a larger concentric arc that passes through the inside top corner of the lid.  It will intersect the bottom edge of the lid at the same place. As long as you remove the lid material on the inside face of that line (regardless of the actual shape you cut out), the lid will be guaranteed to clear.  You can start with a simple wedge, then shape it to the arc.  You can use the same test block to guide your cutting; gradually rough out the cutaway until nothing hits the block.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the drawings aren't to scale, they're exaggerated to illustrate the concept.  The actual dimensions of the case would involve much less material removal than implied here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kRNGO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kRNGO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;  As Matt's comment points out, the above approach would be difficult to make it look professional without the right tools and practice.  Here's a much simple approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fasten the hinge with the pivot centered on the inside height of the lid.  The problematic bottom front inside edge of the lid will then be a distance from the hinge pivot that is a diagonal.  As you open the lid, that edge will swing out because the diagonal distance is longer than the horizontal distance.  By the time the edge is at the maximum possible height of the contents, it will be at the original position of the top inside corner.  So opening the lid clears anything that might be inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution does create a somewhat similar problem at the back of the lid, but it's much easier to solve there.  As the lid opens, the bottom back inside edge of the lid rotates into the content area.  The tiny arc shown on the diagram at the hinge illustrates the points that would be equidistant from the hinge.  What is farther from the hinge than that arc is what will rotate into the content area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a much smaller amount of &quot;problem&quot; material to remove, and in this location, all it takes is some handheld sandpaper to round off the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the diagram isn't proportional to the actual lid dimensions or wood thickness, so it illustrates the concept but doesn't accurately represent the amount of material that would need to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MxTYq.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MxTYq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T06:25:44.427" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T06:25:44.427" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6459" CreationDate="2019-09-05T20:26:40.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dampening is actually more complicated than what you're asking.  It isn't simply a matter of using a material that dampens vibration. It's a function of the frequency you want to dampen. You will dampen some frequencies, but amplify others, and can get resonance that's more problematic than having no damper at all. If the dampers will be supporting weight, you also need to consider things like how the compression will affect it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's actually some physics involved in designing dampening to do what you want.  If you don't have access to a physicist or engineer who deals with this stuff, your best approach would be to play with different materials, sizes, etc., to see what works best for your application.  Another option would be to use commercially available dampers that have been designed for your application and that users have said works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T20:26:40.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-06T08:09:36.160" Score="4" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is coconut shell good to produce charcoal for drawing? Does the material that we use to make the charcoal decide its tonal character?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8199" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-09-06T09:06:28.463" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T06:43:32.000" Title="Is coconut shell good to produce charcoal for drawing?" Tags="|charcoal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6468" CreationDate="2019-09-06T08:25:00.880" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a relativelly small diaphragm spring for a project of mine. I'm thinking somewhere around 50-70 mm diameter, I can size the other parts to match the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB18SoRKpXXXXXMXVXXq6xXFXXX3/Clutch-Diaphragm-Spring.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of a diaphragm spring&quot; title=&quot;Diaphragm spring&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's basically just a cone with some cutouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a sheet of material that I've been told is Phosphor bronze. I've measured it and it appears to be 0.2mm thick. According to Wikipedia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phosphor bronze is used for springs, bolts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which makes me think this could work. The problem is I don't really know how to work this material. In particular, I need to turn it from a flat piece into a cone and most likely add some reinforcement pieces to the 'fingers', though I could probably make do with bolting those on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So the main question is: How do I go about turning a flat sheet into a cone? Do I stretch it somehow? Or should I make a circular cutout and join the edges somehow?&lt;/strong&gt; Do note that I don't a lot of force from the spring. Worst case I'll make several and put them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of tools I'm decently capable with a soldering iron (soft soldering) and have access to a drill that has an attachment that is meant to make it usable as a primitive lathe. Those are all that seem relevant right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Now, to avoid the XY problem, I shall describe the X as well.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a small model of a manual automotive clutch for myself. The key piece that I've been unable to get is the spring. Thing is, I want one that is way smaller than the ones in cars and those that are sold at that size are mostly gonna be way too strong for my application, as they are made for strength, not for looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind if what I make is weak, it's not meant to transfer power, it's meant to look realistic and that is my end goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Attempts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempt number 1: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05qQr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05qQr.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8377" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T11:45:23.420" Title="Making a diaphragm spring out of sheet metal" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6465" CreationDate="2019-09-06T09:43:35.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is coconut shell good to produce charcoal for drawing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure that will work just fine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It does depend on the type of shape you want, as the structure of coconut shell is not optimal: it is naturally curved, making it hard - if not impossible - to get nice straight styluses out of it, and it might splinter more easily when exposed to high temperatures, because of the inherent tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the material that we use to make the charcoal decide its tonal&#xA;  character?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does, but not a lot. Different source materials have slight differences in pigmentation, texture, and strength. Generally, types of wood are used, of which willow and grapevine are the most popular types for drawing. You will notice larger differences between charcoal and &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/222/what-are-the-types-of-charcoal-pencils-and-how-do-they-differ-from-each-other?rq=1&quot;&gt;charcoal pencils&lt;/a&gt;, than between types of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T09:43:35.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6466" CreationDate="2019-09-06T10:45:39.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a little speculative as I haven't tried it with phosphor bronze, or anything as thin as you got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First cut a circular piece, and clamp it between 2 rings.  A holesaw and scrap plywood (to support it and to make the rings) may be helpful here, but you don't yet want a big hole in the middle of the workpiece.  Mark the centre accurately, a set of equally-spaced radial lines (I suggest 12), and a  circle a little smaller than the inner diameter of your clamp rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then beat or even press it into a conical shape, using a round-ended tool in the middle (maybe even the blunt end of an old drill bit).  You should have a cone with a slight brim round the edge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now drill out the centre hole (using a step drill or cone drill would be best).  This is already a spring, but perhaps rather too stiff - this is a good time to test.  Cut along 3 of the 12 lines (equally spaced) and test again.  If it's too stiff, cut along another 3 lines so every other line is cut, test again, and if necessary cut the last 6 lines.  For the cutting, I'd use a hacksaw with something supporting the workpiece, as you want to remove a little material.  You might be able to use tin snips and make two parallel cuts (my tin snips are heavy duty and not fine enough for this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want it to be flat around the centre hole, instead of using a round-ended tool, drill a small hole and use that to clamp discs front an back, then apply pressure to the discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important bit is to keep everything concentric - you'll probably spent more time jigging than actually making the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T10:45:39.390" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6472" CreationDate="2019-09-07T07:03:34.843" Score="2" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I recall correctly from my art history lessons many years ago this drawing style should have a distinct name, but I can't remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IRdXv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IRdXv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oriental drawing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiZVP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiZVP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oriental drawing&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/014045537X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8381" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-23T07:22:11.527" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T07:22:11.527" Title="What is the name of this black lines only oriental drawing style?" Tags="|drawing|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2425" CreationDate="2019-09-07T09:23:47.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time I tried this myself, I used the clothes iron method.  The results were pretty pitiful, but I didn't do much experimenting with temperature and time to see how much the results could be improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A web site called &quot;Fix This Build That&quot; posted a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHOWUR8vTvo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;good video&lt;/a&gt; comparing four DIY methods of transferring a laser print to wood.  One of the four was the iron method, and that result was comparable to mine (he had the iron on high and suggested that it might not be enough heat).  The video is worth watching to see the details of the procedures and the comparative results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test laser print included text and a photo (remember it needs to be a reversed  image). I'll include a couple of screen grabs from the paused YouTube.  That doesn't really do the results justice, but it's good enough to see the difference.  There were a couple of clear winners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polycrylic (the product link in the video was this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000BZYYH4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minwax water-based product&lt;/a&gt;).  The basic procedure is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coat the wood with Polycrylic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay the print on the wood while the Polycrylic is still wet, and rub the back to remove air bubbles and ensure good contact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet the paper and gently scrub it off with a toothbrush.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result looked almost as good as laser printing on paper, including the photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pS1ej.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pS1ej.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Solvent.  There are lots of online tutorials using xylene; he used acetone.  These are available in the paint section of big hardware stores.  The basic procedure is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay the paper on the wood and secure it in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap a shop towel over a heavy plastic card, dip it in the solvent, and wipe the back of the paper so the solvent soaks into the paper, using the card to apply a little pressure on the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift off the paper.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that stage, the result was a distant second compared to the Polycrylic.  Then he applied some spray lacquer (the product link in the video was &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0002YOPLO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Minwax product&lt;/a&gt;).  That improved the result quite a bit, but it still didn't compare to the Polycrylic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIeZK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIeZK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the result quality is adequate for your needs, the reason to use this method rather than Polycrylic would be that this method is faster and less work (but wear gloves, protect surfaces, and do it in a well-ventilated place).  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCjlcjRnDtY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; has a slightly better acetone procedure that lets you verify quality, but the result is similarly much lighter than the Polycrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inkjet:&lt;/strong&gt; I'll add this for people wanting to transfer inkjet images.  Most tutorials involve printing onto a material that doesn't absorb the ink, and then laying that on the wood and rubbing.  The media includes label backing paper, transfer paper, transparency film, wax paper, freezer paper, etc.  Different printer inks do better with different media, so if you go that route, experiment.  This method leaves a pretty light image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something that actually looks like a photo, there's a different approach you can use.  You print on very thin, sheer paper, like tracing paper.  Instead of transferring it to the wood, you apply it to the wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's typically done by applying a light pass of spray adhesive to the back to stick it on the wood.  Then you spray it with a clear coat finish.  Apply enough (in multiple passes), that it penetrates the paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper will become somewhat transparent and almost disappear, and the finish will bond it to the wood.   The glossy finish will also make the picture pop (the difference between printing a photo on plain paper vs. glossy paper).  The wood grain will show through, especially in areas without much ink, so it's a pretty good illusion (but it can sometimes look a little like a decal rather than like you printed on the wood with an inkjet printer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pri9Cl6yVX4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video demonstrating the technique&lt;/a&gt; (on rough lumber, for which transferring an image wouldn't provide a useful result), and his best example (screen grab from a paused YouTube):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qALvv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qALvv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar approach is to use special paper designed to print fake tatoos that you stick to your skin.  After you remove the supporting paper, the print is on an extremely thin film that doesn't look like a decal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-07T11:40:24.520" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T11:40:24.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6470" CreationDate="2019-09-07T11:24:05.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technique seems to be woodblock printing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can tell by the linearity of the drawing, the lack of large dark areas, and the wavy structure of the lines. Especially the second picture shows the underlying wood nerves, as adjacent lines have the same slight deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not very oriental sounding, I know.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Japanese term for woodblock printing is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodblock_printing_in_Japan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mokuhanga&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;and stylistically, the images can be considered a form of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukiyo-e&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ukiyo-e&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which until the early 18th century were done in black and white, and of which the linework is iconic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The earliest prints were monochromatic, and these lines were the only&#xA;  printed element; even with the advent of colour this characteristic&#xA;  line continued to dominate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukiyo-e#Style&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hokusai&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hokusai&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshige&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hiroshige&lt;/a&gt; are its most famous exponents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T11:24:05.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="644" CreationDate="2019-09-07T13:32:23.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case anyone has a similar need in the future, I'll add a tool.  The question doesn't indicate the circle size, but if you're using a plastic stencil, I'll assume the circles aren't very big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get inexpensive sets of hollow punches sold as gasket punches.  They're typically a collection resembling this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eMum.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4eMum.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy Amazon&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a cheap set years ago from Harbor Freight that goes up to 1-1/2&quot; diameter (they no longer show it, but hardware stores, Amazon, and other places have similar sets).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can punch out a circle, or align an outer and inner cut to create a gasket or washer.  You put the material on a surface like scrap wood, position the punch, and hammer it until it's all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will punch any soft material, and cut all the way through with a clean edge, so there isn't any tearing.  I've punched washers out of a roll of weatherproofing felt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, for this kind of activity, you can also punch out other kinds of shapes.  You can buy collections of shape cutters like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eDsA8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eDsA8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy Amazon&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're often sold as leather crafting tools, but they work with fabric and other soft materials.  Note that some of these are on the small size, intended for creating holes and slots rather than pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-07T13:50:40.347" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T13:50:40.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6476" CreationDate="2019-09-07T18:48:09.560" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very light weight and folds nearly flat. My first thought is that it's a temporary holder for skeins of yarn used in a weaving factory. There was some kind of circular object tacked to one of the legs, maybe a label? The &quot;shelves&quot; are held up by cat-gut or some other natural cordage. The longest side is 24&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFY9l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFY9l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Antique folding shelf?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8382" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-09-08T16:47:20.853" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T16:30:43.697" Title="What is this antique thing?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2019-09-09T20:58:17.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-09T11:04:08.720" Score="2" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to have a rollerball pen (or a ballpoint, or preferably both) for caligraphy, that is as fine as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a fineliner that is 0.05 mm, and I would like to have a fine rollerball pen as well (I know rollerballs won't be 0.05 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I look around online for fine rollerball pens, I am somewhat confused: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some ads say their rollerball pen is 0.4mm ball diameter, 0.2mm line width. Should I believe their claim about the line width?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To what extent does the brand matter?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the smallest line width that is out there for a rollerball (or ballpoint) pen? What specific pen achieves this? I have found this seemingly very fine pen, but it seems to no longer be available: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/Uni-ball-Signo-Bit-UM-201-Gel-Ink-Pen-0.18-mm-Black/pd/1614&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.jetpens.com/Uni-ball-Signo-Bit-UM-201-Gel-Ink-Pen-0.18-mm-Black/pd/1614&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1918" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T01:28:16.650" Title="Finest ballpoint/rollerball pen?" Tags="|pens|calligraphy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6474" CreationDate="2019-09-09T16:30:43.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a camel saddle. Numerous designs exist, for different camels &amp;amp; intended use (long riding trip, short ceremonial riding trip, pack animal, etc) and different regions. Some are made only for use as ottomans in houses, though! I remember the fashion for these was big in the 1970s. (I will never forget the one my piano teacher had near her grand piano in 1975, as she let me sit on it to wait, when my mom was late picking me up after my lesson)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/603906532/old-camel-saddle-collectible-saddle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.etsy.com/listing/603906532/old-camel-saddle-collectible-saddle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6934" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T16:30:43.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2019-09-09T21:39:49.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ball tips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was familiar with the Uni-ball Signo 0.28mm tips (virtually the same as a 0.3mm tip, which is commonly available), but the 0.18 was new to me, and that's apparently been discontinued.  I suspect that's pushing the physical limit of what you can do with a ball tip.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of manufacturers have 0.25mm rollerballs.  If you've found one with a 0.2mm line, you will have a hard time doing better than that.  Note, though, that even the .25mm ball pens have a reputation for clogging, and ball tips that small can be scratchy to write with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ball diameter vs. line width&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question about ball diameter vs. line width, the ball needs to be captured at the end of a metal tube, so just a small portion of the ball sticks out.  That portion will be smaller than the diameter of the ball, and that's the part that defines the line width.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That line width spec isn't always a reliable indicator of line width.  If the tip dispenses a lot of ink, the line can spread and end up wider, depending on the media you write on.  Also, the softer the media and the harder you press, the more of the exposed portion of the ball will contact the paper.  So different pens that all claim to write a specific line width will have very different lines.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brand does matter.  Once you get beyond manufacturer's that exaggerate, and are dealing with products accurately described, there are big differences in manufacturing quality and in how long the pens will last.  There are also differences in writing feel, comfort, and line quality.  Different people swear by different brands.  Some of that is due to the type of writing and media, and some is personal preference.  You can check reviews and opinions to narrow the selection, then try some different ones and see what you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Super fine lines&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only kind of pen I've seen that claims to get down to 0.05mm or less is a plastic or felt tip pen, and you're already familiar with those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go smaller than you can with a ball tip, technical pens fill the gap in that size range.  They're called technical pens because the tip is contained in a thin metal tube that allows it to be used accurately with a straightedge or template.  There are several types of tips used in these.  One type is similar to your Fineliner; the writing tip is plastic or felt.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is a metal tip; it's a tiny metal capillary tube that can get down to very fine line widths.  A Rapidograph 6x0 tip has a 0.13mm line.  A Staedtler MarsMatic 5x0 tip is 0.13mm.  Several manufacturers make a 0.1mm tip.  The pens and tips are available from art and office supply stores, and online.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with technical pens, the claims of lines finer than 0.1mm (0.05mm and even 0.03mm), are for a plastic or felt tip.  Those claims can't actually be true.  For perspective, A single dot of inkjet printer ink is in the ballpark of 50 microns.  A single dot of toner from a laser printer is in the ballpark of 80 microns.  Dots this small are barely visible up close to the naked eye if they are arranged in a regular pattern.  To create a line that narrow with a pen, you would need to write with a single human hair, feeding ink through its hollowed out center.  So claims of writing a 50 or 30 micron line with a plastic or felt tip just aren't realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a 0.13mm (Staedtler MarsMatic) tip.  It's easy to use on a surface like velum or tracing paper, but it's like trying to write with a needle on regular paper.  At the small end of this style, you need to develop some skill with it to use it on regular paper (which those sizes aren't designed for).  Sizes approaching the smallest ball-type pens aren't a problem writing on paper.  As a practical matter, if you want to make lines substantially finer than what a ball pen can do, and want to do that on regular paper, a plastic or felt tip will probably be the best solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-13T19:46:56.530" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T19:46:56.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6484" CreationDate="2019-09-10T00:43:52.833" Score="2" ViewCount="7025" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last 2 sessions I have been trying really hard to create a deep brown/deep red fur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have gone back and forth many times trying to create this colour but feel I am just mixing something so clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can sense it has a red almost orange feeling to it, but everything I try gets me nowhere..&#xA;I'm using golden cyan blue, primary yellow and red. Titanium white and a standard black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I create burnt umber with these colours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8049" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T17:39:23.573" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T21:53:04.793" Title="How to mix burnt umber with the 3 primaries and black/white" Tags="|acrylic-paint|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4024" CreationDate="2019-09-10T01:20:51.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &quot;optically variable inks&quot; that change color depending of the direction of the light.  They're used on currency as an anti-counterfeiting measure and have found their way into art.  I know they're sold in bulk quantities (1-2 kg minimum); you can check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/optical-variable-ink.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/optical-variable-ink.html&lt;/a&gt;.  There may be resellers offering smaller quantities but I haven't researched it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the chameleon paints (which are based on ChromaFlair pigments) described in Nothingismagick's answer are a different technology.  However, counterfeiters sometimes use the paint to approximate the ink since the color combination used on US currency can't be purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read about optically variable ink &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optically_variable_ink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and ChromaFlair paint pigment &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ChromaFlair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T01:20:51.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-10T05:25:09.430" Score="3" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am learning to draw on my own by drawing and watching Youtube tutorials. I would like to improve the quality of the lines in my drawings. What drawing exercises would help me improve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8386" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T07:09:59.280" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T19:53:23.343" Title="What exercises can I do to improve the line quality of my drawings?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-10T05:30:55.997" Score="2" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used fineliners (plastic felt tip I think) for calligraphy in order to achieve low line width (0.05 or 0.1 mm), but the tip tends to wear out very quickly, much faster than the ink is depleted. When the tip wears out, it becomes hard to write at an angle, and the ink becomes very uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there fineliners that have very low line width (0.05 or 0.1 mm), but with a tip that doesn't wear out so quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1918" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T13:46:00.303" Title="Fine liners that don't wear out quickly?" Tags="|pens|calligraphy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6478" CreationDate="2019-09-10T07:08:58.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say that you want to get some kind of brown, but you only have cyan, yellow, red, white and black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am no expert, but from my limited experience I know that &lt;code&gt;brown = red + green&lt;/code&gt;. Since you do not have green, I see no way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I noticed is that mixing black with yellow gets you a kind of strange green (it may depend on the exact chemicals in the pigments). If you mix that strange green with the red, you might get somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T07:08:58.897" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6478" CreationDate="2019-09-10T10:26:58.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get a kind of burnt umber, I think (I can't test it now) you need &lt;strong&gt;around 3 parts black, 3 parts red, 1 part blue and 1 part yellow&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume the first picture I found googling for fur is the kind of reference you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/paSS0m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/paSS0m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Red brown fur&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For painting fur, and especially to get a warm glow in your painting, I suggest painting a layer of red (with yellow mixed in as desired). Let it dry. This will be your base layer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mix some black and red (or use the 'burnt umber' recipe, as the cooler colour will contrast nicely with the warmer one, emphasizing it), and dilute it with water, as you want the next layer to be quite transparent (at first, anyway). Apply this mix to the cured base layer, using a brush to create the texture you want. You can change the proportions of the solution to get darker and lighter areas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can apply a much darker, semi-transparent layer on top of the warm red base layer, giving you the dark area as seen in the image to work up from. Using a small brush, you can paint in the strands to get a more detailed picture, mixing it with white to get the sheen, which is quite important for the realistic appearance of any kind of hair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-09-10T16:55:57.593" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T16:55:57.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6478" CreationDate="2019-09-10T11:16:24.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see several probable problems here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You use the wrong &quot;primary&quot; colors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The quality of your paints might be low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You try to replicate a certain pigment without actually using this pigment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at this problem from the bottom up (from short to long):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wrong pigment&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burnt umber is a certain pigment. It's made out of actual brown earth (I think it contains a lot of rust, but I'm not sure about it). The easiest way to get it would be buying a tube of paint with the correct pigment in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replicating the same color with different pigments is possible, but difficult. Our perception of color depends on the wavelengths of light that a substance reflects. If the physical properties of 2 paints reflect less or different wavelengths, the color looks dull or has a different hue. In general mixed paints tend to be less brilliant than pure paints. If you want burned umber, you cannot get more pure than using actual burned umber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Low quality paints&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have one of those standard boxes of school paint, the quality of each single paint is probably low (to keep costs low). One color might be composed of several different pigments, so mixing them often results in muddy or chalky colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have &quot;studio&quot;, &quot;college&quot; or &quot;artist&quot; paints, the quality should be better. They often have only one type of pigment in the paint, a higher amount of pigments and the pigments are much finer than in low quality paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even the highest quality paints don't act exactly like shown in the color wheel, because they contain additives and binders that bind the lose pigment in a usable paint. Especially light colors like yellow often contain additives to make them more opaque. The pigments themselves are colorful dust particles, so mixing one dust with another dust won't yield a perfectly brilliant color. You always lose some brilliance by mixing paints, so using pure paints in the desired hue is generally considered the better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only medium pure enough to mix all colors of the color wheel is ink (given you have the right primary colors...), because it doesn't contain additives to make it opaque. Even the highest quality of paint is by definition too low to mix all colors in a pure and brilliant way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wrong &quot;primary&quot; color&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very typical error, not only for beginners. In school teachers tell us that the primary colors are red, blue and yellow. Paint boxes contain red, blue and yellow. Collor wheels show red, blue and yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And all of them are wrong!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real primary colors when using paints are &lt;strong&gt;Magenta, Cyan and Yellow&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White light is a composition of every visible color. If you shine a red light at a spot, then add a blue light and finally a green light, the center where all colors add up, is white. This is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Additive_color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;additive color&lt;/a&gt;. This applies to all TV or computer displays and anywhere where color is made by mixing light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mix red, blue and green paint on a paper, you end up with black, though. Your paints don't work the same way as light. You need to take color away (subtract from the mix) to end up with white. This is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subtractive_color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;subtractive color&lt;/a&gt;. This applies to all printers or paints and anywhere where color is made by mixing substances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary colors of additive colors are: red, green, blue. (RGB)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The primary colors of subtractive colors are: cyan, magenta, yellow. (CYM or CYMK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dndrz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dndrz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;color wheels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://images.complex.com/complex/image/upload/c_limit,dpr_auto,q_90,w_720/fl_lossy,pg_1/ywmffgjjqp922d6xkwnq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source and more detailed information&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is another example of CYM color wheel that displays how adjacting colors mix:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n6tYI.jpg&quot; width=&quot;600&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see brown at the center of the wheel, half way between magenta and red. You need to keep in mind that the actual center point of the wheel is black, but wasn't displayed here. So, how do you get to brown?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with magenta and add a little yellow to shift it towards red. This shift will happen at the outer margin of the wheel, because you mix adjacent colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add in the complementary color (cyan) to shift it towards the center of the wheel. The more cyan you add, the more you shift the color towards the center, which is black.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might read trivial and you might not understand why magenta is so important if all we did was basically mix green and red to get brown, but the &quot;pure&quot; red already contains too much yellow and adding green puts even more yellow into the mix. If red is your &quot;primary&quot; color, you cannot mix it with anything to remove the yellow from it. Adding more &quot;pure&quot; blue to the mix shifts it further into the black center of the wheel. You have no chance to hit the sweet spot of a warm brown because this portion of the color wheel between red and blue is not available to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's also the reason why you cannot mix violet from red and blue. Red contains a little bit of yellow, which is exactly opposite of blue. By mixing both together you shift the hue towards the black center and end up with an ugly, muddy violet instead of the very brilliant one shown halfway between magenta and blue. You need pure magenta without a hint of yellow to get a beautiful violet without a hint of muddy brown or grey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXuY3KtWtyw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; (sorry it's only in German and her voice is kind of annoying, but she shows the difference between the wrong and right primary colors in action).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At 10:00 minutes, she makes a color wheel with red, blue and yellow and shows how muddy and ugly the colors look.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At 12:00 minutes, she repeats the same process with magenta, cyan and yellow. Look at the difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-09-13T04:30:30.640" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T04:30:30.640" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7528" CreationDate="2019-09-10T11:40:43.933" Score="6" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am tried to make soap using cold process saponification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 25% coconut oil, 25% olive oil and 50% sunflower oil (what I had in my kitchen for this first try) and used a lye calculator to define the amount of lye and water for a 7% superfat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try to give it some spice,  I infused the sunflower oil with sage leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 3 days in the molds the soap is still very soft, more like a paste at the bottom, and cannot be unmolded without tearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea on what can make a soap keep soft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T23:23:27.690" Title="Soap not hardening" Tags="|material-selection|soap-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6481" CreationDate="2019-09-10T13:46:00.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smaller the tip, the faster it's going to wear out; 0.1 and 0.05 especially tend to wear out and break noticeably faster than wider tips, even with a light touch. There are only two solutions I personally have found for this issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Buy a cheaper pen and replace it when the tip breaks.&lt;/strong&gt; There's some affordable brands of fineliners that do come in 0.1 (and sometimes smaller) that are easy enough to purchase in multiples and toss when the tip becomes too damaged to use, and you'll have more choices in brand. I believe some do not have sizes below 0.1 available, but you can also mix and match between brands to find the sizes you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Buy a more expensive pen and replace only the nib when the tip breaks.&lt;/strong&gt; I currently use this variety, which is more expensive than the average disposable pen. The nibs are interchangeable and can be replaced fairly easily. Some brands available in small sizes (down to 0.03), but depending on where you live may be harder to find. Additionally, depending on what's available around you, the cost per nib may be equivalent to the cost per pen on a cheaper brand, or the cost for the pen itself far more than reasonable in exchange for disposing of cheaper pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to make the decision on what's the best option for you. I personally chose replaceable nibs due to frequently working away from home and looking for an option that used less space than carrying extra full pens; if you work close to home or a consistent location where you can store more equipment, you may wish to choose whichever option is most cost effective for you. You may also have preferences on the feel of the pen in your hand (my reusable liners have metal bodies, my single use liners are plastic, giving them a different weight and feel), or on the amount of work needed to maintain the pens (it's much easier to toss a pen and grab a new one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also wish to consider a metal nib over plastic (these pens fall into the &quot;replaceable nib&quot; category), but they are less effective when held at an angle and require considerably more maintenance than plastic nibs; again, this is a case where you'll have to personally weigh the benefit (longer life) versus the cost (higher price and frequent cleaning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a concise guide to 14 different brands of pens covering a range of prices, nib sizes,  nib materials, and replacement options, JetPens has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/blog/the-best-technical-drawing-pens/pt/436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;review of liners&lt;/a&gt; with a quick comparison table at the end, as well as more detailed information on how to maintain the different types of pen available. Ultimately, you'll have to make the decision on what pen might work best for you, based on your own budget, ability/desire to perform any required maintenance, availability in your location, and less tangible preferences (i.e. how the pen feels in your hand or handles in use). I would recommend taking the information from the reviews, then going to a local seller and handling the pens in person (testing when testers are available) to help find the right pen for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T13:46:00.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-10T23:41:42.873" Score="5" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to search for this screw but cannot find a comparable head shape. I know it’s an Allen/hex, but I’m talking about the overall shape, it’s like a ‘reverse button-head’, or ‘anti-pan head’?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have searched Amazon and even google images, but that hasn’t been fruitful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excuse the sub-par photograph. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; you can see the shape well enough:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOVFs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOVFs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8106" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-09-11T07:49:55.393" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T01:49:23.723" Title="What type of screw head shape is this?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-11T04:59:51.110" Score="0" ViewCount="2334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to suggestions on what glue would be best to stick smooth stones and shells to a reasonably sturdy piece pf cardboard to be put upright in a shadow box/deep frame. Would epoxy be the best way to go? I'll need something pretty strong as I certainly don't want any to fall ofd! I'd really appreciate any information anyone may have. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8391" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T06:02:18.513" Title="Adhesive suggestions for pebbles and shells on cardboard" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-09-22T01:21:36.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2019-09-11T06:02:18.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that some standard silicone would be strong and cheap. They are all guaranteed to stick to cement, bricks... And pebbles and shells are made of similar materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you need to clean the pebbles and shells properly, before applying any glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T06:02:18.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6480" CreationDate="2019-09-11T14:57:56.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sitting down with a piece of paper, and drawing continual lines. Over, and over and over again. Filling up a whole paper with just lines. Sometimes I will sit down and just make loop shapes on pieces of paper, to exercise the fingers, or zig-zag patterns, for short consistent lines. Practicing cursive handwriting has helped with line control in a similar manner, and able to get the flow of motion in the fingers, wrist and arm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to create lines, you are using different parts of the arm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing a line might seem easy, but determining what part of the arm to use can create different lines.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Line a) which is significantly longer line. Would require the muscles in the elbow.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Line b) which is half the size of line a. Would require the wrist.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Line c) Which is short simple lines. Would be using the fingers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oQAf4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oQAf4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elbow and wrist lines would be focused more on contour, while fingers would be more for hatching(shading with closely drawn parallel lines), or fine details. Having control of the arm, wrist and fingers. Will help with practicing drawing lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T14:57:56.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6480" CreationDate="2019-09-11T19:53:23.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An exercise that I liked from my art classes at school was to draw a series of random triangles all touching and various sizes and irregular in angles, then fill each one with a pattern. Any kind of pattern. Lines, scallops, dots, wiggles - anything you like! This we did in pen and ink. And everyone's was different. Just play with it, have fun making any kind of different pattern in each triangle. Forget about the 'quality of your lines' - and then see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the 'workings' in art are what makes it seem alive. Look at Matisse's drawings - you'll see many reworked lines. And remember that we are conditioned to seeing the uniform perfection of things produced in factories and sold in the supermarket - and that is not organic, it is not really alive. We see the 'finished result' not the 'work that went into it'. Strive for imperfection, learn to stop on your art just before it is 'finished' is my advice, if you want it to still be breathing. And look at a tree in winter, if you want to see how 'imperfect lines' are found in nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T19:53:23.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6261" CreationDate="2019-09-11T21:44:35.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn to draw well, and be able to draw - anything, then I recommend you learn to draw some basic shapes like, cone, cylinder, sphere, pyramid, cube.  This is normally achieved by practising still life drawing with a collection of objects that have these shapes (ie an orange is a sphere, a box is a cube, the vase is a cylinder, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you can draw these, both in line and with shading and from various perspectives eg in line, from above from below etc - you’ll be able to draw pretty much everything - because - an eye is a sphere, a nose is a pyramid, an arm is a cylinder, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing these shapes gives you the building blocks for drawing other things or well - anything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I suggest doing life-drawing classes, which is the best way to learn to draw, in my view, and will let you ‘put everything together’.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T21:44:35.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7514" CreationDate="2019-09-12T17:59:23.183" Score="5" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to embroider my own stole by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/the-culture-and-future-of-phulkari-embroidery/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phulkari&lt;/a&gt; to be exact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan to purchase 2 yards of chiffon fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nylon thread seems thick and shiny. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would nylon thread embroidery work on chiffon? Otherwise, what material can nylon be embroidered onto?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-09-13T14:45:36.977" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T18:29:04.553" Title="Can One Use Nylon Thread to Embroider on Chiffon" Tags="|material-selection|embroidery|folk-art|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-13T02:24:48.280" Score="1" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com.au/Lamy-CP1-Brushed-Stainless-Tri/dp/B000UTMME8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lamy CP1 Tri Pen&lt;/a&gt;, which is a multipen that comes with three pen types - black ballpoint (M 21), pencil (M 41), and orange marker (M 55).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to swap out the pencil and orange marker with additional M 21 (or non-Lamy ballpoint) refills? I would prefer a mix of three ballpoint colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ML8E_aFmBiQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Refill video from Lamy&lt;/a&gt; doesn't provide many clues as the guide shows a sketch rather than the actual pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://drop.com/buy/lamy-tri-pen/talk/453773&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar question on Drop&lt;/a&gt;, but the response was inconclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8400" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T06:00:43.763" Title="Can I replace the pencil and marker with ballpoint refills in the Lamy CP1 Tri Pen?" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7497" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-09-13T14:49:13.380" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-09-13T14:49:13.380" LastActivityDate="2019-09-13T14:49:13.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7498" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-09-13T14:49:13.380" Score="0" Body="Folk art refers to stitching, pottery, paintings and other creative expressions done within families and communities. These artifacts are created to commemorate special events in life, such as birth, marriage, and one's passing." OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T15:38:33.707" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T15:38:33.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-14T16:48:54.197" Score="1" ViewCount="4965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm painting geometric stuff (in acrylic) and know how to mask out straight-lined shapes using tape on canvas (image on the left). However, have always wondered what would be a clean effective way, or most common way, of masking out circular, elliptical, anything non-linear shaped (image on the right). Is there a specific material that can be used other than roll tape? thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFvB9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFvB9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastEditorUserId="1152" LastEditDate="2019-09-16T18:14:36.977" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T18:14:36.977" Title="Masking out non-linear shapes on canvas" Tags="|material-selection|painting|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7500" CreationDate="2019-09-14T17:50:34.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of painters tape being sold in super-wide rolls.  But you could replicate that by overlapping as many strips as needed to contain the shape inside a wide border.  Do that on an easy-release surface like wax paper or used backer paper from label sheets (use as much as you need to protect the adhesive).  Trace or draw the desired shape onto the tape and cut it out.  Then peel the tape from the backing and position it on the surface you want to paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach would be to create a template.  There are lots of suitable materials you could use.  Chipboard is available in large sheets.  You might even be able to get a sufficiently large piece by opening up something like a large cereal box.  Some materials will hold up better than others if you want to reuse it many times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along the lines of your vinyl idea, the vinyl used for laser-cutting lettering and shapes for signage is typically thin, and backed with an aggressive adhesive, although you could leave the liner attached.  You might be able to find heavier-weight, stiffer vinyl sheets at an art supply store.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small shapes, there are vinyl folders that are long lasting versions of manila folders; you could cut off the fold to make two flat pieces that would be good, long-lasting template material. If you don't have access to a laser cutter, you could cut it by hand with a hobby knife or hot knife. You might be able to use a French curve as a knife guide (though not with a hot knife).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For larger sizes, you could use something like vinyl shelf liner, which is heavy enough to not stretch, or vinyl wall paper.  Tyvek, which is available in rolls, might be suitable for single use; it is likely to wrinkle, though, with the first use (but it's cheap and you could make more, cutting the shape out with scissors).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is in sealing the template against the medium so paint doesn't wick under it.  You need a temporary adhesive that doesn't leave a residue and isn't so aggressive that it can pull off what may already be on the medium.  If the medium is a textured surface, you also need something thick enough to fill the gaps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rolling a thin bead of tacky putty (the kind used to stick things to a wall that doesn't leave any residue), would be a good material for that.  Line the back of the template right at the cutout edge.  If it is a large template made of heavyish material and the medium won't be horizontal when you paint, or material that wants to roll up, use clips of some kind to secure the template in position (or painters tape around the edge).  Then press the cutout area into position to adhere the putty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me add a totally different approach.  There are temporary coatings that can be sprayed or applied with a roller.  They dry to a protective, clingy plastic film that can be peeled off without removing paint or other surface materials.  Typical use is to protect finishes or materials during storage or construction.  There are lots of similar products (Google &quot;spray-on temporary coating&quot;).  Here's one from an Australian company, but similar products are available all over: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shieldnpeel.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.shieldnpeel.com.au/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use it as a template, cut out a positive of the shape and position it on the medium.  Spray or roll a coating of the material over at least the edges of the shape, and wide enough to protect the area around the shape.  Extend it to an edge for easy access for peeling.  While it is still wet, remove the positive, so the coating is the template.  Peel the film off when you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-14T20:20:17.110" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T20:20:17.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6005" CreationDate="2019-09-14T18:49:04.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for an &lt;a href=&quot;https://schachtspindle.com/product/inkle-loom/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inkle Loom&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYtO1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYtO1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of hits on YouTube. It was designed for weaving straps, but is usable for work up to about 4&quot; wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8403" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-15T22:25:25.030" LastActivityDate="2019-09-15T22:25:25.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7500" CreationDate="2019-09-14T20:03:33.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Piggy-backing on fixer1234's answer, vinyl sign transfer tape is available in paper form and is easily considered wide masking tape. I use it to mask laser cut projects as it seals well to many surfaces, is easily cut by knife, scissors or laser and is easily removed without residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being paper, it can be marked with pencil, pen, marker, paint, etc in order to create the desired cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search using &quot;paper transfer tape&quot; resulted in the product I use as well as many others being listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another benefit to this product is the ability to order in a desired width. I use 150 mm and 300 mm widths for most of the masking. There are smaller sizes too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T20:03:33.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7500" CreationDate="2019-09-15T10:37:55.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another tape solution..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I usually do when I paint geometric models or shapes, is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;draw the shape I need&lt;/strong&gt; (using carbon paper, for example) on a flat wooden panel, a cutting plate, or a similar support from which tape can easily be removed, and then &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tape over the lines&lt;/strong&gt;, making sure there is enough overlap.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After the shape has been completely covered, I &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cut through the tape using the lines&lt;/strong&gt; that are still visible through the tape (as regular painter's tape is translucent), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;remove the unwanted pieces&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;carefully pull off the &quot;tape-shape&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;apply it to my canvas&lt;/strong&gt; (or panel, or other painting support).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To mask the area outside of the shape:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The areas of the canvas that you're not working on can be covered up using paper or other light material, that can be fixed using the masking tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To mask the inside of the shape:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Before covering the traced lines with tape, you can cut a piece of transparent plastic or translucent paper using that same method, leaving a margin within the outlines for the tape, and hold it there while you tape it to the board or plate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;By proceeding the same way as the method first described, you can make a cheap template to cover the entire area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-09-15T10:37:55.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-15T13:49:05.850" Score="1" ViewCount="1737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I went to the local frame maker I learned some things about passe-partouts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lower border should be slightly bigger than the others, e.g. 5cm vs. 4cm or 6cm vs. 5cm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a certain minimum size for a passe-partout to look good (we were talking about 4cm for an A4 frame, so leaving 29.7-2*4=21.7cm width and 21-4-5=12cm height).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try my hand at making passe-partouts myself in the future, where can you recommend to read about such design considerations? I have already found enough guidelines about technical aspects (how to cut, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2019-09-20T04:54:57.457" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T10:31:48.460" Title="Passe-partout guide" Tags="|cutting|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-16T21:40:20.853" Score="2" ViewCount="3948" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a miniature painter, and I use brush-on mod podge to seal my minis because it's what I have available and a bottle of mod podge lasts much longer and is easier to use than an aerosol sealer. However, my gloss coat bottle got shaken when my dog knocked it off the table, and I have a lot of trouble with bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to get rid of these bubbles when they're on an irregular 3D surface like a mini? Do I need to get a new bottle? Is there a way I can prevent these bubbles even when dealing with odd shapes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8409" LastActivityDate="2019-10-06T19:56:03.807" Title="How do I remove mod podge bubbles from an irregular surface?" Tags="|varnish|miniatures|decoupage-glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7512" CreationDate="2019-09-16T22:16:12.470" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear lot about the importance of pre-washing fabric before making a dress to get the shrinking out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if you want to make a stole, i.e. sew a border, embroider (in my case, I wish to make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/the-culture-and-future-of-phulkari-embroidery/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;phulkari&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, would any of you pre-wash fabric? Did anyone in any culture say 50, 100, 100 etc years ago pre-wash fabric before embroidering it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I purchased &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B003D7JIMS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, 3 yards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T16:47:46.983" Title="Necessity of Pre-Washing Fabric to Create Folk-Art Shawl" Tags="|sewing|fabric|folk-art|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2019-09-17T14:09:10.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To wash or not to wash ... it depends on the materials you want to combine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stitch a cotton yarn onto a cotton fabric, both react very similar to being washed: they shrink by roughly 5% in length (in extreme cases up to 10%). If you want to stitch a different yarn (maybe silk, acrylic or wool) they might react very different to the same treament. You should factor these changes into the planning of your embroidery project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In embroidery, each individual stitch is relatively short. It shouldn't be much of a difference if the fabric shrinks by 5% but the yarn doesn't. It will be a little loose and incorporated objects like beads might pull strands looser than others. But overall the finished piece should still look alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, the yarn shrinks more than the fabric, the result will be very unshapely. A stitched border might curl or pull in areas. Big motifs in the center of the fabric will pull areas together and deform the whole fabric. The more stitching there is on the fabric, the stronger this deformation gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, I suggest using a yarn that does not shrink. If you're not sure how much your yarn and fabric shrink, cut a small piece of fabric off, embroider a small motif on it, then measure it's size before and after washing and see if it deforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should see the efford for the preparations in relation to the effort for the actual execution. If embroidering takes several weeks, maybe months, saving a single day for testing the shrinkage of your fabric and yarn can have catastrophal consequences after all these weeks. For something as work-intense as a phulkari, I would go out of my way and pre-wash the fabric and (if possible) the yarn as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T14:09:10.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2019-09-17T16:47:46.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many times I wash my fabrics not for shrinkage issues, but to get sizing out of the fabric. My skin reacts to many chemicals used in the fabric creation process and I want them removed before I have to spend much time handling the cloth, or wearing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the dye in the cloth is going to run, I want to know BEFORE I start sewing/embroidering! Then I can treat it to remove excess dye and set what is left. If left unwashed, it might even rub off onto your hands &amp;amp; hoop &amp;amp; surroundings while embroidering, and color your embroidery threads too. I will usually rinse it alone by hand in a tub, to see how it reacts. If I do use detergent, I use &lt;strong&gt;Eucalan&lt;/strong&gt; no-rinse delicate wash. (I like the lavender scent - I hate perfumey stuff but this is just a nice hint of scent)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's material that isn't easily washed (silks etc), it depends on the project and what I will have to do with it. I definitely hang silk to let it air out and stretch/relax a bit, to see how it drapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quilters are a bit different ... many sew up a quilt first, then wash it, in order to get a certain look &amp;amp; feel in the finished product. Others wash first. Others never wash! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will often wrap my embroidery hoops with ribbon in order to ensure they don't get stained by the fabric (which could then transfer to whatever fabric I use in my next project!) or by dirt/oil from my hands. The ribbon can be easily replaced between projects. This also means your hoops won't snag on your fabric, and you won't leave such harsh hoop-marks to iron out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6934" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T16:47:46.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7495" CreationDate="2019-09-17T18:21:20.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question hasn't attracted answers, yet.  I don't know much about sewing, but I've used nylon thread for other purposes and maybe some insight from that will be helpful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is much stiffer than regular thread.  It doesn't like to make tight angles or loops.  It might have a tendency to distort  really thin, soft fabric.  You can get very fine nylon thread that is similar in flexibility to regular thread, but it is almost invisible in most fabrics (it's used for invisible stitching).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the thread you're looking at is thick, like regular thread, it will probably be too stiff.  If it is very fine, you might be able to embroider with it, but you will need a lot of adjacent threads on the surface for patterns to be readily visible and to fill the space.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the art of embroidery, but you might be able to use thick nylon thread just for the surface pattern if you can capture it to the fabric with regular thread.  Those areas will be much stiffer than the fabric, so you might have trouble getting the fabric to fold and shape naturally (it would be like sewing a stiff patch to the fabric).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if any of the embroidered fabric will be in contact with your skin, it will probably be very scratchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-17T18:29:04.553" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T18:29:04.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6378" CreationDate="2019-09-17T19:32:18.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to supplement the good answer by Allison C, there is a wide variety of Mod Podges with different characteristics (see descriptions on &lt;a href=&quot;https://modpodgerocksblog.com/mod-podge-formula-guide-youve-been/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog&lt;/a&gt;).  Certain ones are more prone to be sticky than others, especially if there is high humidity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If thin coats and long curing still don't solve the problem, one solution is to try a different Mod Podge product that may be less prone to stickiness (see linked blog).  Another solution is to give the item time for the Mod Podge to dry and cure, then spray it with several light coats of a clear acrylic sealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-09-17T19:32:18.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7509" CreationDate="2019-09-17T23:04:19.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sources of bubbles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mod Podge doesn't contain solvents that degas and create bubbles in the finish.  If you are getting bubbles in the finish, it's either because of air bubbles that got mixed into the product, or air trapped during application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting rid of bubbles in the product&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Allison C notes in a comment, the product gets a lot more shaking before it ever gets to you than what it got being knocked off the table.  It's a thick liquid, so it can take a while for bubbles to all work themselves to the surface.  If the container sits for a few days, any bubbles should rise to the top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same would apply if you ever decide to stir the contents.  Stir slowly to not introduce air, then let it sit for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a way to speed up getting rid of any air bubbles.  Slowly pour the contents into another container in as fine a stream as you can.  If you want to store it in the original container, pour it back the same way.  For this to work, you need patience to avoid the temptation to speed things up.  Any air bubbles will end up at the top of the product in the container you pour into, where they can easily escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoiding bubbles in the coating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if there are no air bubbles in the product, you can still get bubbles during application.  There are two main ways.  If what you're coating has a lot of surface texture and detail, you can trap air when you apply the coat.  If you use a scrubbing motion with the brush, that can stir in air.  If you are applying a thick coating, air from those sources can aggregate as bubbles.  The coating dries from the outside in, so the surface can trap them.  Even if the bubble pops, the coating may be viscous enough at that point to not flow into the bubble hole, leaving a pock mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Techniques to avoid this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply several, very thin layers, waiting between coats for the previous coat to dry enough to be clear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to brush in smooth strokes rather than scrub the Mod Podge into the detail and nooks and crannies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect for bubbles after each coat.  If you see a bubble or pock mark, that's a sign that you're applying too thick a coat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait for the Mod Podge to dry so you can see its final form.  Fill pock marks with a tiny drop of Mod Podge at the end of a pin or toothpick, slightly overfilling so the drop is a little raised (it will flatten when it dries).  You probably don't need to worry about pock marks that seem too small to fill; they will get filled by the next coat the same way tiny detail got filled by the first coat.  Wait for that to dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect to see if any irregularity is visible in the surface.  If so, gently dry polish the area with an abrasive scrubbing pad (the abrasive surface is typically a non-woven mesh of plastic like nylon filaments).  If you need something smaller, try a small piece of nylon fabric wrapped around a cotton swab.   You don't need a perfect surface, just no visible ridges; if any irregularities are barely visible, don't worry about them.  Then give it another thin coating, which will hide any minor imperfections.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-10-06T19:56:03.807" LastActivityDate="2019-10-06T19:56:03.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7521" CreationDate="2019-09-17T23:29:00.690" Score="2" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve heard that matte coatings are less durable than gloss ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The claim was that gloss coatings form a hard protective shell, whereas matte ones do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommendation was to first apply a gloss coating for the durability. Then after the gloss is dry apply a matte coating to mute the glossy effect and achieve the intended matte finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct or a myth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Using Krylon spray coatings to finish wargaming miniatures, but answer would likely apply to most any application.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8412" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T03:00:51.343" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T03:00:51.343" Title="Gloss coat then matte coat?" Tags="|material-selection|preservation|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6127" CreationDate="2019-09-18T00:05:50.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a clear two part epoxy resin to fill the gouges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get one with a short drying time (5 minute epoxy) at most hardware stores or even the dollar store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure if its a two part mold, not to put the parts together while its drying or they will stick together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply the glue in a ventilated area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8412" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T00:05:50.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6487" CreationDate="2019-09-18T00:38:42.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks similar to this&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ctX9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ctX9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bicycle bolt.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.performancebike.com/dimension-black-anodized-bolt-bo0000000312/p541014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M5 Black Anodized Bolt&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Description:&#xA;Tapered socket head with 4mm broach M5 diameter bolt, 0.8mm thread pitch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8412" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T00:38:42.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2019-09-18T02:16:29.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold process soap usually needs 4 weeks minimum to set up completely.  You may just need to give it more time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T02:16:29.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7517" CreationDate="2019-09-18T13:32:01.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray matte coatings can indeed be easily scratched and chipped; I can't speak for spray gloss coatings, as I have no personal experience with them, but brush-on gloss coatings (Triple Thick, Tamiya gloss, Future floor polish, etc) can be extremely durable. The durability you'll want will ultimately depend on how you plan to store your miniatures, however. If you transport them separated in a lined box and treat them overall gently, then a less durable finish can be just fine; if you tend to toss them all in a box, you'll want something more durable to prevent them from getting banged up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can layer finishes; when I do miniatures, I do coat them in brush-on gloss (Triple Thick) for durability followed by a spray of matte finish (Dullcote or Purity Seal/Munitorium Varnish) to cut the shine. The minis I've treated in this manner are from a board game and stored in the game box, and so far have not chipped or shown any damage to the paint or coatings. They aren't as matte as they would be had I used only the final matte finishing spray, but they aren't glossy, either; your desired finished look may have some impact in how you choose to finish your miniatures, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an addendum, if you are using only plastic or metal miniatures, Krylon sprays are likely fine, but if you choose to purchase any &quot;premium resin&quot; miniatures, under no circumstances should you use Krylon on them; Krylon has been shown to behave unpredictably on polyurethane resin, ranging from &quot;it kind of worked but didn't dry/cure well&quot; to &quot;it pitted/ate away at the surface where it was sprayed.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T13:32:01.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7538" CreationDate="2019-09-18T17:26:01.273" Score="2" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a boho maxi dress a while ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lost weight and it is now big for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to narrow the sleeves to maintain their poofy shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I simply trim along the seam of the sleeve, or is there something more involved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to alter the bodice as I've had successful experience (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bespokepost.com/the-post/how-to-tailor-your-own-clothes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;based on this tutorial&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'm unsure if I'd attempt to narrow the skirt (length is absolutely perfect though) - I'll save that for another question if the time comes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a pattern of the dress in question (note the poofy arms)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hYz7n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hYz7n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T13:05:15.453" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T17:56:46.680" Title="How to Trim Poofy Sleeves" Tags="|sewing|alterations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7523" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-09-18T17:27:32.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alterations refer to resizing a garment (such as making a shirt smaller) or recycling a garment (such as turning a pair of jeans into a fashion handbag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T15:39:58.787" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T15:39:58.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7524" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-09-18T17:27:32.490" Score="0" Body="Alterations refer to resizing or recycling a garment." OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-10-25T15:49:13.200" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T15:49:13.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-18T19:29:04.627" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wish to embroider, say, 3 meters of fabric to create a shawl, &lt;a href=&quot;https://sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/fabric-grain-what-it-and-how-fix-it-if-its&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;do you still need to make sure the fabric is on grain&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or do you only check for fabric grain if you will cut for sewing projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T10:14:41.327" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T10:14:41.327" Title="Importance of fabric grain in embroidery" Tags="|embroidery|fabric-grain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7526" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-09-18T19:31:48.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Direction of threads that fabric is woven. Factory-finished edges of fabric are called &lt;strong&gt;Selvage&lt;/strong&gt;. Threads running parallel to Selvage are &lt;strong&gt;Warped&lt;/strong&gt; grain. Threads running perpendicular to Selvage are &lt;strong&gt;Weft&lt;/strong&gt; grain. Threads running at 45 degree angle to Selvage is called &lt;strong&gt;Bias&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-10-25T15:50:41.803" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T15:50:41.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7527" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-09-18T19:31:48.047" Score="0" Body="Direction that threads on fabric is woven. If fabric direction is distorted this will severely effect sewing projects." OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T15:40:10.427" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T15:40:10.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2019-09-18T23:23:27.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As hlg said, cold process takes 4 to 8 weeks to dry.&#xA;Also, each oil sets differently and gives the soap a different hardness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a link in English, but here's a good one in French (that you may translate using Google): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soapacadabra.fr/archives/2011/08/10/21768903.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.soapacadabra.fr/archives/2011/08/10/21768903.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coco oil dries fast and makes a hard soap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Olive oil dries slowly and makes a very hard soap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sunflower oil dries very slowly and makes&#xA;a soft soap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8414" LastActivityDate="2019-09-18T23:23:27.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-18T23:54:50.333" Score="5" ViewCount="14978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a cheap gold lamp. As expected, the gold is typically super shiny and yellow (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make it look more like weathered/antique gold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WE04w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WE04w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photograph of lamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7MuAm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7MuAm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T17:56:03.907" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T09:44:43.590" Title="How can I make a faux gold finish less garish?" Tags="|medium-selection|metalworking|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7529" CreationDate="2019-09-19T08:13:45.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you want to achieve in the end. Just a few ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use something abrasive, very fine grain, and destroy the shine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray some non-glossy paint over the shine. Choose the color of the paint according to your wishes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back to the shop and exchange the shiny lamp for a non-shiny one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, gold and antique-looking don't really go hand in hand :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I saw lamps which might look like you want, and this is how you might get there. Apply some layer of paint - which will give the &quot;antique&quot; look. Before it dries / cures, use a brush, even some soft paper, to comb the paint over the surface of the lamp. In a way it would look scratched, but it will also look like it has &quot;deposits&quot; due to time passing by. You may even uses different colors and / or different shades of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe gray for dust, brown for rust, blue / green for some copper oxides... Imagination, baby :) Just decide the details about how you want it to look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2019-09-19T15:06:53.813" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T15:06:53.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7529" CreationDate="2019-09-19T11:58:38.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gold-coloured coating is probably very thin so abrading it could easily scratch right through. Besides, it would look more like scratched-up shiny stuff than old weathered stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the look you're going for and the thickness of the base material, beating it (try a wooden or rubber mallet before anything metal) could be used to make it less mirror-like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A coat or two of satin varnish will also make the shine less garish, but test how will it sticks. I've found water-based varnish sticks well to real brass, at least when I don't want it to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T11:58:38.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7718" CreationDate="2019-09-19T13:45:39.610" Score="2" ViewCount="1790" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far, I have seen tutorials where kurtas (these are long Indian dress-like shirts worn with palazzi, skirts or leggings) have been altered by sewing along the seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=230&amp;amp;v=szCynXS9FwA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Note that the pattern is straight (don't worry about the language barrier, the marking action starts around 3:50).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I see tutorials to alter bodices attached to skirts where it is cut at the seams, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNN1U1WpymE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The lady goes from size 18 to size 8 and alters the dress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=65&amp;amp;v=huRAJJ_IxzA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In this video&lt;/a&gt;, the lady gets a dress from a thrift store and explains where to cut (she doesn't demonstrate it, though) - it starts at 1:05.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to alter a bodice attached to a gathered skirt WITHOUT cutting the seams?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking because I have seen tutorials to alter kurtas that involve cutting seams &lt;strong&gt;which I don't believe is necessary&lt;/strong&gt;. Instead, I would have stitched along the seams.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=86&amp;amp;v=6xgshbHnxwM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; this action starts at 1:26 - I would have simply marked off the excess area behind the seams and then sown it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I create seams with left-over fabric by cutting it open. On one shirt I altered I created weft seams. On another shirt, I created clean seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lady in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5gvlzwhP0Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; has a straight-forward tutorial on seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2022-07-03T16:53:59.143" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T16:53:59.143" Title="How to alter dress where bodice is joined to gathered skirt without cutting garment at seams" Tags="|sewing|alterations|seams|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7533" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-09-19T16:41:55.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seams are a sub-specialty of sewing. How will you create or alter garments without sewing seams? There are many types of seams, such as clean seams, weft seams, french seams, flat-felled seams. Or you can always purchase a serger machine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-10-25T15:50:21.763" LastActivityDate="2019-10-25T15:50:21.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7534" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-09-19T16:41:55.513" Score="0" Body="A line along which two pieces of fabric are sewn together in a garment or other article." OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T15:40:04.167" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T15:40:04.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7529" CreationDate="2019-09-19T17:33:08.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume the look you're hoping for is a little like this, a &lt;em&gt;dirty&lt;/em&gt; gold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L31Pfm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L31Pfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Also fake gold&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artstation.com/artwork/oYG5W&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;, actually a 3d render&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not planning on rebending the stand a lot, I'd suggest taking some acrylic paint (maybe some raw umber and black or similar dark and muddy colour), mix it with a little chalk or plaster (gypsum) to make it more dirty and matte (but make sure it doesn't dry out too quickly - you can add a little water while you mix), take a piece of cloth, dip it into the mixture, and rub it unto the lamp.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This way, all crevices will take the paint, and all larger smooth surfaces will be wiped clean again by the cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note: I don't really see the 'gold' in the lamp, only a very subtle, almost green hue. Is it the lighting, the colour profile, or is it really that faint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how clear the 'gold' is on the lamp, you can first coat it with some acrylic gold paint, using either spray paint, or acrylic, after you've sanded it with very fine sandpaper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular acrylic gold paint is usually too cool or too warm,  and too shiny (or, rather, glittery). There are more professional paints available, but you can of course also create your own mixture (white, yellow, and if you're so inclined, maybe warm it up with a very little bit of red).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, parts of the coating might come off afterwards (especially with acrylics), but this could actually increase the faux antique look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-09-19T17:33:08.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7529" CreationDate="2019-09-21T05:09:15.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This product is perfect for just that job. It's not as cumbersome as gold flake leafing which is what is traditionally used for antiquing. ✌&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8GZUqm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bare Metal Foil&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8420" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-09-21T09:44:43.590" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T09:44:43.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7540" CreationDate="2019-09-21T09:21:37.070" Score="1" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at the potential to use residual laser toner as a replacement for colored embossing powder; they're pretty similar (given the caveat that toner is messy stuff to handle and clean up).  I couldn't find anything in online searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Embossing powder is used in several ways.  What might be the most practical for toner is melting it in a melting pot and pouring it into molds as a casting resin.  But I don't know if toner is formulated to flow as a liquid when it melts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main way embossing powder is used is to add a 3D appearance to ink (i.e., embossing).  That may be a challenge for toner.  One big difference between the two is grain size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Embossing powder has much larger grains.  They're small and light enough to stick to the ink, but large enough to melt and flow together to form a raised plastic layer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser toner has microscopic grains.  They melt and stick to the paper, but a layer of toner particles is so thin that it doesn't form a raised layer.  A big issue with toner would be getting a thick layer to stick to the ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People do color clear embossing powder by adding colored powders to it.  So toner could theoretically be added to clear embossing powder.  However, the tiny particles may interfere with the embossing powder sticking to the ink.  Also, this doesn't seem like results would be consistent, and the toner color would be greatly diluted.  This solution also requires expensive embossing powder in order to use the free toner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone explored toner as a replacement for embossing powder (for either embossing or casting), and can provide insights on doing either one successfully?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T20:19:36.993" Title="Use laser toner for embossing powder?" Tags="|printing|ink|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7522" CreationDate="2019-09-21T17:56:46.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An assembled sleeve isn't much more than a tube of fabric, but completely disassembled, it looks more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are inexperienced with tailoring, this &quot;quick and dirty&quot; tutorial looks like a good start: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/l19C7v8rqRQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to tailor a sleeve&lt;/a&gt;. It requires you to put on the shirt (or dress) inside out, gather the surplus fabric at the existing seams and pin it to your desired size. You then open the original seams, sew along the pin lines and trim and neaten your new seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it doesn't explain is how you match the new sleeve seam to the existing side seam of the bodice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to reduce the size of the bodice as well, it's perfect to do both at the same time. Otherwise you either need to match the new sleeve seam up to the original side seam (which preserves the puffiness at the shoulders) or you need to sew the sleeve seam in a crooked line back down to the side seam (which artificially narrows the arm hole). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest going with the first solution, because it's the neatest and an armhole that's too narrow is very uncomfortable. This solution is shown in this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/AdIAGeYE8gk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resize oversized sleeves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The professional way is to dissassemble the sleeves, adjusting the cut of the pieces and reattatching them to the dress. Of course this is more complicated, but if the &quot;quick and dirty&quot; solution doesn't look good, this is the only way to make it look perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, mark which sleeve is the left one and which is the right one, because they may differ very slightly from each other and sewing the left sleeve to the right armhole looks strange and feels uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then take your measurements as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/08/19/create-a-custom-sleeve-pattern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Create custom sleeve pattern&lt;/a&gt;. Keep in mind that you want to measure your desired sleeve, so if you don't want it to be skin tight, don' t measure skin tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow that same instruction and construct your new sleeve on a big sheet of paper. Once you're done, measure the circumference of the armhole in your bodice. Then measure the length of the &quot;sleeve crown&quot;, the curved line on top, from seam to seam. The sleeve crown should be slightly longer than the circumference of the arm hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your sleeves have cuffs like shown in the picture, reattach them after closing the long sleeve seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end, sew the sleeves back onto the bodice as shown here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/FmO907M0a9Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to insert sleeves&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T17:56:46.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7543" CreationDate="2019-09-21T19:59:19.053" Score="5" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a sculpture of an abstract, alien-looking, spiky, liquid-like solid object (I don't know how to properly describe it) like in the screenshot below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PJ63.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;taken from stellaris game&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this style / concept of design called? Or if it had no name, how can I properly describe this style so I can look it up in search engine?&#xA;I want to find more references on that object for inspiration.&#xA;I've tried using the keywords above but they yielded no result. English is not my main language so my vocabulary isn't wide enough to get what I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8423" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-25T11:08:28.597" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T11:08:28.597" Title="How can I describe this alien-looking sculpture art style / concept to find other examples?" Tags="|sculpting|style-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7537" CreationDate="2019-09-21T20:19:36.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not handle toner powder at all without a high quality filter mask and potentially safety glasses. Loose toner is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toner#Health_risks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;health risk&lt;/a&gt; for the respiratory system due to it's particle size. It's not toxic, but some studies compare it's effects to the fine dust of diesel exhaust or even asbestos. You should at least expect an irritation or even inflammation of the upper respiratory system. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/268411555_Health_hazards_caused_by_laser_printers_and_copiers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24102468&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source2&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, have a look at the material safety data sheet of the toner cartridge you want to open &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; exposing yourself and others to the powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the health issues, the melting tempetature of toner is 120°C / 250°F (which is lower than that of embossing powder) and at that temperature it should have a viscosity of oil (&lt;a href=&quot;https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/ef2d/a1bfc89ab8958b4a3e012a24f662b498f142.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source, PDF&lt;/a&gt;). But I doubt that you could cast anything in toner, especially left-over toner from an empty cartridge, because the volume of melted toner is much less than the powder would suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with embossing, but as far as I know it works pretty much like laser printing. You make a powder stick to certain areas on paper, then melt the powder to fuse it with the paper. You should be able to achieve the same effect with toner. I just propose using a heat source that doesn't blow the toner all over the place like a heat gun would do. Due to the small particle size I wouldn't expect it to feel any different from a laser printed paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more practical approach &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be binding the toner in a liquid and using it like an ink. You should be able to stack up a thicker layer of toner that way and achieve the desired 3 dimentional effect. In &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Tq5wkYVol1A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; she mixes loose toner powder with isopropyl alcohol and a bit of school glue to get a fairly liquid ink / paint. And in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Tk258GvKXys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; she uses a different recipe for toner paint, and at around 13:20 minutes you see how shiny the toner got from being melted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T20:19:36.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7539" CreationDate="2019-09-21T21:14:53.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could file that under &quot;Abstract Expressionism&quot;&#xA;  &quot;Surreal Expressionism&quot; &quot;Futuristic Conceptual&quot;&#xA;✌&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8420" LastActivityDate="2019-09-21T21:14:53.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7539" CreationDate="2019-09-22T14:16:09.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Organic Kinetic Futurist Sculpture&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding &lt;em&gt;organic&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;kinetic&lt;/em&gt; gives &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=organic%20kinetic%20futuristic%20sculpture&amp;amp;rlz=1C5MACD_enFR506FR507&amp;amp;sxsrf=ACYBGNRZGNv0n4W0IKlNuz4mTaOaC-Dwfw:1569161430228&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwjxiJPtzeTkAhUHEBQKHY6zARwQ_AUIEigB&amp;amp;biw=1947&amp;amp;bih=1217&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;many similar results&lt;/a&gt; like the sculptures of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.1661235.com/Patrice_%22pit%22_hubert._sculptor/news.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Patrice Pit Hubert&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Slc9F.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Slc9F.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XvJ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XvJ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastActivityDate="2019-09-22T14:16:09.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7545" CreationDate="2019-09-23T14:34:18.250" Score="5" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Thread-a-Needle-and-Tie-a-Knot&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial&lt;/a&gt; for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting thread for embroidery project&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threading the needle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a knot to end of needle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the alternative to adding knot to of end to needle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to avoid back-stitch as it adds bulk to stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How else can I secure the front and end of my hand-stitches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T14:48:36.500" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T13:22:46.723" Title="How can I secure the front and end of my hand-stitches without adding knot to needle, or back-stitching" Tags="|sewing|embroidery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7544" CreationDate="2019-09-23T16:02:51.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to leave a tail and then stitch over the tail as I progress, anchoring it. This is especially easy if you're using a thick, colored fabric. Cheap white flour-sack towel type fabric makes this method difficult, where every single piece of thread is visible through the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some different no-knot techniques, I love the tutorials by Mary Corbet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.needlenthread.com/2008/09/beginning-and-ending-threads-photo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beginning and Ending Threads: Photo Tutorials on Common Methods&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get lost in all her tutorials! The pictures are always well lit, in focus, and plentiful. Her descriptions are, for me at least, very easily followed. She has helped me really advance my embroidery techniques.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6934" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T13:22:46.723" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T13:22:46.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-23T19:54:16.070" Score="4" ViewCount="3432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired a large quantity of used neodymium magnet spheres that I would like to use in a project. When I roll a couple of the magnets around in my hand, they leave a black residue on my palms and fingers. Many of the magnets are silver in color, but some have a paint that is chipping off. How can I clean them so that they don't make everything gross. Separating them and washing them one-by-one is not reasonable given the quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8426" LastEditorUserId="8426" LastEditDate="2019-09-23T21:01:42.327" LastActivityDate="2023-02-16T04:32:18.737" Title="How to clean neodymium magnet spheres" Tags="|metal|preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7546" CreationDate="2019-09-24T02:48:40.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm revising this answer after further research.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Considerations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neodymium magnets are made from an alloy of neodymium and other metals.  The magnets are typically plated with nickel.  Pure neodymium is very reactive, oxidizing quickly in air and reacting quickly with hot water (much slower in cold water).  I don't know the extent to which the neodymium in the magnet alloy is similarly reactive (the plating might be for protection as well as appearance).  It would be safer to just avoid cleaning with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neodymium magnets also start to lose their magnetism at a relatively low temperature (below the boiling point of water), so don't expose them to temperatures above &quot;warm&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If some of the magnets are painted, that might be a cheap replacement for nickel plating.  If so, I wouldn't rush to remove it if it isn't chipping off.  Neodymium magnets are typically made from small particles of the alloy, either using heat and pressure to fuse the particles or using a binder.  The alloy is a silvery-gray color.  If the magnet is not plated, it will have a grainy silvery appearance rather than looking polished.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If some paint is already chipping off and you can see a mirror-like silvery surface, the paint was added to plated magnets so it would be safe to remove.  Even if the paint is just &quot;decorative&quot;, removing it is messy. &#xA;I'd be tempted to not remove the paint from any painted magnets that aren't chipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are two things to clean.  You might want to remove the chipped paint for appearance and to prevent further chipping.  What you describe as similar to getting newsprint ink on your hands may be a coating of grease or oil put on the magnets for protection.  That could be grayish, but the magnet spheres could  also act like a ball mill, grinding paint flakes to a fine dust, adding color to the grease or oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint removal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the magnets to be stripped in a plastic paint storage container with a lid, cover them with paint stripper, and seal the container.  Every so often, stir the contents so all the surfaces get exposed.  You might need to let it sit overnight so all the paint dissolves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there's no more solid paint on the magnets, pour off the paint gunk into something disposable.  Cover the magnets with paint thinner, and stir them around to get all the residual paint gunk thinned out.  Pour that into the disposable container.  If there's still paint gunk on the magnets, repeat the paint thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to an appropriate place to dispose of the chemicals, spread the residue on something and leave it outside to dry.  After the solvents have evaporated, you can dispose of any dry residue in the trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Degreasing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are already using paint thinner, that will also remove any oil or grease, and you typically buy that by the gallon, so you're likely to have some left.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have three groups of magnets -- ones that have just been stripped and cleaned, painted ones that you didn't strip, and unpainted ones.  The stripped magnets should already be clean.  The unpainted magnets can be cleaned in paint thinner.  Paint thinner will attack the remaining painted ones.  Those (and the unpainted ones) can be cleaned with 90+% isopropyl alcohol.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use the alcohol sold as a solvent in the paint department.  That is denatured with other stuff that may attack paint that you want to preserve.  Use alcohol (90% or higher) from a drug store or drug section of a department store (typically sold in pint or quart bottles).  For the unpainted magnets, pick either solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleaning procedure is the same for either solvent.  Wipe out the container and put in the magnets to be cleaned.  Pour in enough solvent to cover them, and stir everything well.  Let it soak for a total of maybe an hour, stirring occasionally.  Pour off the dirty solution and check the magnets.  If they still feel like they aren't clean, or residue comes off on a clean rag or paper towel, remove the magnets and wipe the container.  It wouldn't hurt to roll the magnets around in an old rag to remove some of the residue.  Then put the magnets back and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the magnets are clean, dump them onto an old towel, flatten them into a layer, then wrap the towel over them and roll everything around inside the towel to dry them all off.  Then let the magnets air dry on a dry towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-09-24T17:42:00.077" LastActivityDate="2019-09-24T17:42:00.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7552" CreationDate="2019-09-25T18:41:51.053" Score="1" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased whole set of embroidery thread and it is too thin (how I will return it is a different matter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for when searching thick thread? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon doesn't show any sort of weight or metric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I wish to purchase the type of thick thread shown below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYbu2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYbu2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T18:56:38.130" Title="What to look for when purchasing Thick Thread" Tags="|sewing|thread|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7550" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-09-25T18:42:04.990" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-09-25T18:42:04.990" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T18:42:04.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7551" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-09-25T18:42:04.990" Score="0" Body=" A long, thin strand of cotton, nylon, or other fibers used in sewing or weaving" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6054" LastEditDate="2019-10-08T19:48:00.890" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T19:48:00.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7549" CreationDate="2019-09-25T18:56:38.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thicker variety of embroidery thread is called perle cotton. That might be what's in the video, though I can't quite tell. It is sized by numbers, where a smaller number indicates a thicker thread. You might be interested in a size 3 or 5 perle cotton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you got originally was 6-ply embroidery &lt;strong&gt;floss&lt;/strong&gt;, you wouldn't see sizes listed because it only comes in one size. That material can also be separated so you can use fewer strands, which is not true of perle cotton; that seems to me to help perle cotton threads stay round when you stitch with them, instead of flattening out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5880" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T18:56:38.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6465" CreationDate="2019-09-25T20:07:26.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drawing charcoal is made in two general ways.  One is to start with wood that is naturally in stick form and turn it into charcoal by burning it in a kiln without air.  Grape vines and willow sticks are commonly used for that, but DIYers use almost any kind of available sticks, or even lumber cut into sticks.  The drawing characteristics of the result are whatever the source wood gives you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other method is similar to how graphite pencils are made, only using charcoal instead of graphite.  Various kinds of wood can be used to make the charcoal, but that isn't the major factor that controls the drawing characteristics.  The charcoal is ground into a fine powder and mixed with a binder, typically a gum or wax.  The manufacturing process controls the hardness of the result, mainly by the amount of binder used.  Like graphite leads, the hardness is the major factor driving the drawing characteristics.  Compressed charcoal can produce darker lines than stick charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're thinking about making your own, you aren't likely to be able to replicate the compressed powder, but you can easily replicate the stick method.  You would need to cut the coconut into strips of the desired size, get all of the coconut meat off, and give it plenty of time to thoroughly dry out before trying to turn it into charcoal.  They'll be curved, but that wouldn't necessarily affect their usability (straight wood sometimes curves in the kiln).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bigger problem may be the nature of the coconut shell.  It's relatively thin, and is a mat of fibers rather than solid wood.  It might not have the strength to draw with (the fibers may also not hold together after it's turned to charcoal).  If that's the case, you could try reinforcing it by wrapping a strip of paper around it for strength.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good article on doing it in a paint can: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sightsize.com/making-charcoal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sightsize.com/making-charcoal/&lt;/a&gt;.  The author's experience was that the hardness of the wood made a difference.  This video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpwlnaUwnoQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpwlnaUwnoQ&lt;/a&gt;, covers more detail on the preparation when starting with sticks (the other author started with lumber cut into &quot;sticks&quot;).  I couldn't find anything online where people had used coconuts.  You will need to experiment, then post your results and any lessons learned.  :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T20:07:26.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7555" CreationDate="2019-09-25T21:36:33.507" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to paint ~200 words on a big graffiti wall in my town. The wall is on a pretty busy street, so I was hoping to do something like stenciling the paragraph on a big piece of paper and then cutting out the words, taping piece of paper with the cut-out words up to the wall, and then spray-painting over the piece of paper to get the text on the wall. That way, I could front-load the work at home and not have to spend too long painting out on the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this seems like a fair bit of work, and I also feel like the words might come out smudged if I paint the wall this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on how to best paint about 200 words on a wall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8430" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T20:40:28.830" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T20:40:28.830" Title="How can I facilitate spray-painting a long text on a wall?" Tags="|painting|graffiti|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7554" CreationDate="2019-09-25T22:04:35.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe your method is sound if you take a few trivial precautions during the painting. You can avoid blurred and/or smudged lettering by ensuring the stencil is fastened well to the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to provide additional holes closely spaced to the letters. Applying masking tape through the holes will keep the edges of the stencil tight to the surface, but will not add much to your labor efforts. Obviously, you'll want additional masking (stencil area) well outbound of the lettering and lettering support holes, to keep overspray clear of the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material you use for your stencil will be important too. Avoid absorbent paper material and shoot for something like butcher paper, which is often waterproof to a degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any spray paint application, multiple light coats will prevent runs/drips and result in a better image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the high tech end, there was a Kickstarter campaign called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/jasonmario/sprayprinter-smart-spray-paint-technology/description&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SprayPrinter&lt;/a&gt;, which converted an ordinary spray paint can to a phone-controlled dot-matrix printer based on an image provided to the phone. Version one was relatively low resolution, 320 pixels square, while v2 increased that, but I've discovered that neither version appears to be available at a retail level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9H36.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B9H36.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spray printer image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how well a text job would appear, although one can easily pixel convert text to old-style dot-matrix printing level!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T22:04:35.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-25T22:13:58.717" Score="0" ViewCount="3274" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_chnvLD5DUw?t=95&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; explains how to turn thin thread into thick thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is suitable for making friendship bracelets, but it's not scalable to embroidering an 8-foot shawl, for instance. Plus, this shawl will utilize 3 to 4 (5 maximum) distinct colors of thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please tell me how I can turn thin thread into thick thread?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Embroidery floss and even sock yarn have jaw-dropping prices!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T10:10:21.240" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T04:20:12.710" Title="How to turn thin thread into thick thread for hand embroidery" Tags="|sewing|thread|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7559" CreationDate="2019-09-28T14:04:02.650" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;A week ago, I wanted to try to create a prop for a cosplay. The weapon I choose was the Gehaburn from Neptunia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqTVOl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqTVOl.png&quot; alt=&quot;gehaburn&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to find how to do most of the prop, apart from the blade. I searched online for some inspiration and was able to find someone who managed to create a very good looking one, created by &lt;a href=&quot;https://scontent-lga3-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/dac417d4841fec0f5321404b61dae496/5E014858/t51.2885-15/sh0.08/e35/s640x640/28156990_426341927808146_6115981443219849216_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.cdninstagram.com&amp;amp;_nc_cat=102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alucard&lt;/a&gt;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLcGNm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLcGNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What material could be used to create this kind of glass-like effect, or what material did Alucard use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material would need to be : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inexpensive (creating it on a budget)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to work with &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durable and water-proof &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know a material which fits these criteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8438" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T20:35:00.563" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T20:35:00.563" Title="What glass-like material to use for a weapon prop?" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7558" CreationDate="2019-09-29T08:05:07.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like it's meant to be translucent, even illuminated inside. So I'd be tempted to look into casting silicone for the blade, with a hollow core of the right colour, illuminated. Hollow saves weight as well as giving you somewhere to put the LEDs. To do that you'd make a positive master out of softwood and then a mould from that.  Making that blade shape from a single piece of softwood is the work of an hour or two with jigsaw, plane and sander. I'm half way through making a toy sword from softwood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZfiCI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZfiCI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sword in progress&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option to try would be working plastic (acrylic or polycarbonate) directly but it's hard to shape with a plane and you won't achieve the 3d shape of the blade with just a saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying it couldn't be done with thermoplastic, but not by melting - you can't achieve the temperature control to avoid burning unless you've got very fancy kit. And it's the wrong shape to vacuum form. What you probably could do is make a a blade from several sheets solvent bonded together to give a stepped cross-section then sand out the steps. Lots of plastic dust means you'd need good dust extraction.  I've just been sanding some plastic sheet (probably acrylic) to clean up cut edges and make a frosted surface, and it doesn't sand very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple and cheap option is just make it out of softwood and rely on an impressive paint job to get all the colour effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T09:55:33.003" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T09:55:33.003" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-09-29T16:17:01.533" Score="3" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m new to oil painting so forgive my perhaps stupid question, can I start an oil painting and continue to work on it for days after I start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8441" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-09-30T13:25:01.713" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T22:36:19.310" Title="Time to paint over time" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7564" CreationDate="2019-09-30T00:51:17.683" Score="2" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 40&quot; x 52&quot; paintings to frame up and I am wondering what sort of &quot;bumpers&quot; to use for the corners (so the painting doesn't scrape the wall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used those self-adhesive plastic &quot;dots&quot; on framed drawings and they are quick to apply but they seem to get knocked off easily. Is there a framing product &quot;bumper&quot; that is more secure? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I could try drilling a hole in a &quot;dot&quot; and attaching with a brad but that's a hack. Or maybe using something intended for the bottom of furniture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't done that much framing so I don't know what is standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T21:51:43.433" Title="Alternative to self-adhesive corner 'bumpers' for the back of paintings &amp; framed works?" Tags="|painting|framing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7561" CreationDate="2019-09-30T13:34:49.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The self-adhesive round &quot;dots&quot; might do more damage than help. However, I would glue some (tough) sponge, or even a thick ribbon (made of) cloth to the back of the painting / frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there might still be some trace of friction on the wall, but it is unlikely that there will be scratches left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both wood and cloth are quite friendly to a wide range of glues, so that should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T13:34:49.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7561" CreationDate="2019-09-30T21:51:43.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cut 'dots' [or squares, or bits of scrap of any shape] from 100% wool felt and glue it down with whatever &quot;crazy glue&quot; kind of epoxy I have at hand. None have come off in 30+ years of hanging art &amp;amp; moving house four times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On very pointed/raggedy corners or ill-fitted frames, I will cut a shape that covers the entire corner, not just a dot. I like that flexibility with the felt. (The ribbon or sponge methods suggested by virolino would take care of these too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the wool felt over plastic bumps as I feel it prevents wall markings better than the bumps. I have no scientific proof for this, though! Just that I noticed when moving house that my own felted frames left no marks, and the art that came with pre-attached rubber dots lifted dots of stuck paint when removed, where years of trapped humidity &amp;amp; dust had made a tiny seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I find myself stumped by canvases that wrap around the frame completely, and some are even painted all the way around and meant to be left exposed. No ideas there... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how the craft store plastic felt would do, I always have 100% wool felt on hand from crafting projects so I use that. Felt dots with sticky backs are sold commercially for framing use and seem to be plastic felt, so using your own plastic felt should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6934" LastActivityDate="2019-09-30T21:51:43.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-02T18:27:16.267" Score="6" ViewCount="1240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to design and create my own &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Music_box&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;music box&lt;/a&gt; by hand. I'm looking for a way to create the metal comb/teeth. It would need to be a thin but sturdy metal in order for it to make tones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a cheap way of making these, as I would need to make many of these as I continuously tweak the design until the correct notes are achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to ask separate questions for the other components of the music box in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8453" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T20:37:12.670" Title="How Can I Create the Metal Comb of a Music Box?" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|metalworking|carving|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-02T19:28:54.407" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did an oil painting on drafting film. Now I need to fix it on a board so it will not bend. Can I do it on a plywood and then frame it under glass? Is it safe for the painting? Plywood is not acid free I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8454" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T13:50:32.093" Title="Drafting film glued on plywood" Tags="|adhesives|wood|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7566" CreationDate="2019-10-02T20:23:27.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't make one for a serious music box. It is quenched and tempered to high strength, which means the steel needs to be at least low alloy. I expect the slots are cut in and cut to rough length before hardening. Then after hardening, each &amp;quot;finger&amp;quot; could be ground to exact length for the note. Also, some I have seen are ground to a special shape on the tip where it will be plucked. A friend bought a replacement comb, so they are available but expensive. For a novelty, I expect cold rolled brass sheet metal would be good--hard enough to &amp;quot;ring&amp;quot; but could still be cut (it would be cut in the hard condition).My old ,entry level music box, has tines about 0.050 &amp;quot; thick; I cannot measure them directly but that is close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="3114" LastEditDate="2021-04-17T20:37:12.670" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T20:37:12.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3250" CreationDate="2019-10-03T16:43:28.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this too. But many artists choose to squeeze paint out of the tubes just before they start painting and use up almost all the squeezed up paint. They do this because they feel that it gives freshness to the painting and if they let the paint dry, the binders used in the paint makes the paint to lose it vibrancy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel it's up to the artist's convenience. Some artists don't like to often squeeze those tubes to get paint. Also they can get proper consistently when paint is dried. When paint is wet, you can mindlessly dip the brush into the paint. If you do so then you end up taking a lot of paint and that would be wasteful. So drying would be advantageous&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8459" LastEditorUserId="441" LastEditDate="2019-11-18T15:20:33.420" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T15:20:33.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1839" CreationDate="2019-10-04T15:10:31.430" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution I have found, other than comments read here, is through a UTube video called '5 quilting tips I wish I knew', by National Quilting Circle.  It's not about quilting, but it's about the machine, tension, thread, etc.  I am not affiliated with this group, but the information changed things for me in a good way.  I love my machines now.  PS  -use the cup for the cross wound thread and use the sewing machine bar, if you don't have one, buy one, it's worth it!  You'll know what I mean after you watch the video.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8467" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T15:10:31.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2019-10-04T22:36:19.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two possibilities here, with different approaches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To keep on working the wet paint.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To continue working over dried paint.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are very common and often combined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keeping on painting &lt;strong&gt;while the paint is still wet&lt;/strong&gt; won't impede your working process as much, because you don't have to heed certain restrictions that guarantee the quality of your painting - in principal, you can &quot;just keep painting&quot;, with relatively long intervals.&lt;sup&gt;+&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A possible disadvantage - depending on style, subject and goal - is that you might need more control over your brush and sufficient drawing skills, as it is easy to lose the vibrancy of colours by mixing them up too much as you try to correct mistakes (although you can always scrape off parts using a palette knife).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wet-in-wet or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wet-on-wet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;alla prima&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; method was used by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impressionism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;impressionists&lt;/a&gt; (whose very name was derived from their (or initially Monet's) habit of 'quick' painting) and in general by people painting &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/En_plein_air&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;en plein air&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which is still very common. Live portraits are often done this way, as having a model remain still for a while requires a quick and efficient technique. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Working over (partially) dried paint&lt;/strong&gt; is a bit more complicated, since - for the sake of the longevity of your artwork - you should heed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fat_over_lean&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fat-over-lean rule&lt;/a&gt;, and never apply thinner paint layers over thicker ones, as this will cause surface tension resulting in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Craquelure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;craquelure&lt;/a&gt; or even chipping of the paint. This is already something to take into consideration when the paint has not cured yet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Still, this is the most common technique - especially since most &lt;em&gt;alla prima&lt;/em&gt; paintings are often &lt;em&gt;retouched&lt;/em&gt; later on (days, months, years later) by the artist to make corrections, add detail, or even change the composition.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;What's also important, especially if you're only starting to paint, is to not let this impede your process: even professional artists don't always care for the chemistry behind painting, so if you just want to experiment, or do exercises, or just have fun with it, knock yourself out.&lt;/strong&gt; This is a &lt;em&gt;medium&lt;/em&gt;, after all, and if your work unexpectedly ends up in a museum somewhere 150 years from now, there are restorators who will gladly earn their money treating your aberration ;)  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;+&lt;/sup&gt; The drying period of oil paints depends on several factors: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Ambient) temperature;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Ambient) humidity;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amount of oil;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amount and nature of additives (thinner, mediums);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pigment;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The support; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thickness of the paint layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine, based on those factors, drying times are naturally very relative.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In my experience, in averagely humid conditions (marine west coast climate) and with temperatures around 20° Celsius, most paints will remain manipulatable for at least two days (but be careful with earth pigments and blacks). The thicker the paint layer, the longer the drying process, so you have some say in the matter - glazings, for example, won't last that long.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T22:36:19.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5721" CreationDate="2019-10-05T05:49:30.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I let it dry covered with a plastic bag to increase the drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is probably one of the best choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will tell you a short story, even though it is from a totally different context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A loooong time ago, they applied a thin layer of some kind of cement-based mix on my grandmother's house - mostly for decorative purposes. That was some tedious work, done manually, but the interesting part just follows. For the next XY days (I have no idea how many, maybe up to a week or more), they richly wetted the entire surface (the new layer of cement), on a daily basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The explanation I was given was that without the water, the new layer of cement would crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you might want to try it on some test &quot;shape&quot;. Make it as usual - the kind of way that would lead to cracking, and after it is finished, abundantly spray water on it &quot;as often as needed&quot; (you are the expert of your work, so you decide what that means). Depending on the details, soaking might be an alternative - you need to make the analysis yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-10-05T05:49:30.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7684" CreationDate="2019-10-05T21:02:17.087" Score="2" ViewCount="1958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a sewing machine tutorial where the repairman said some problems can be prevented by using sewing machine bobbin felt pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two felt pads came with my Singer Start 1304.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, one is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07WWJYRKW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lists a crazy price&lt;/a&gt; of $6.99 for a pack of 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are those felt pads really necessary?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And do they really have to be that expensive - is there a cheaper alternative to using Bobbin Felt pads so that it protects the sewing machine from any damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T15:33:45.300" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T04:01:50.250" Title="Alternatives to sewing machine bobbin felt pads" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5721" CreationDate="2019-10-06T16:39:28.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using Sakura air dry clay, from Japan. It's a paper clay, if that suits your purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is light weight and dries crispy, like very hard but light card. It is very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I like is that you can build directly on top when dry. It doesn't crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I build in smallish parts as, after 5 minutes of modelling, the clay enters a fragile breakable stage until it hardens in about 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can build components and stick them together. I use Uhu glue to join pieces; it avoids them snapping apart later.  For heavier needs, I add the weightier Das, in the base for example, to help it stand up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T13:54:18.850" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T13:54:18.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7586" CreationDate="2019-10-06T16:43:25.050" Score="0" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the shirt I purchased when I was heavier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxSmL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jxSmL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to slim the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, fixing the shoulders was a train-wreck (now I've learned the hard way: I need to take-in the shoulders)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried to sew along the thread seams, it was crooked and I couldn't put on the shirt. However, when I tried removing the threads, it made a nice hole in the shoulder area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to darn this hole so that it is not noticeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFkbZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFkbZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmO0a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmO0a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T10:06:53.747" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T13:19:34.073" Title="How Do I Save This Shirt" Tags="|sewing|restoration|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7580" CreationDate="2019-10-06T18:29:33.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're asking a lot to repair that so it isn't noticeable (although if time or cost is no object it could probably be done; I've seen damaged art canvases invisibly repaired with a microscope, surgical tools, and days of work).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more practical strategy might be to hide it in plain sight.  Incorporate the repair into something like embroidery.  Maybe do something matching on both sides so it looks like it was the original design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea would be to intentionally fray both sides the same way jeans are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-10-06T18:38:01.307" LastActivityDate="2019-10-06T18:38:01.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-07T00:39:11.413" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a astronaut costume but I have no idea what fabrics I should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like fabrics that resemble rubber, shiny vinyl that has no texture, and fabric that is good for putting lights underneath for glow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name of fabric I should be looking for that would meet these criteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1E0qY.png&quot; alt=&quot;I 3d modeled this!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8474" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-10-11T01:10:58.697" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T08:22:06.860" Title="What sort of fabric could be used for this costume?" Tags="|material-selection|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7582" CreationDate="2019-10-07T06:43:09.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question isn't well-defined, and your list of desired materials isn't clear in terms of how you envision using them.  But based on the picture, I'll throw out some ideas to get you started.  Perhaps you can use this to clarify your question.  Recognize that anything that can't breathe will be really hot, even if it's cool outside.  But a few ideas: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You might get enough material for the entire costume from a plastic table cloth (or two).  If you get a white one, you can color it with spray paint that's compatible with vinyl.  An unlined, unpainted table cloth may be translucent enough to put lights inside (but they will add to the heat).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A metallic look would be pretty cool.  You can buy really cheap &quot;space blankets&quot; (one or two should be enough, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01M4MXEQO&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;).  Any lights would need to be on the outside (maybe LED strips).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need costume segments that will hold a simple shape that you can make from a flat material (like a cylinder or surface curved in one plane), you might want to look at drafting vellum, which you can get in large sheets or rolls.  It's made from thin cotton fabric infused with a material like gelatin to make it translucent and stiff.  You could put lights behind that.  It has sort of a plastic looking surface.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For a rubber look, you could use sheets of craft foam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can make shaped sections using a lightweight fabric or gauze.  Create a mold for the shape from any suitable material and put a thin layer of a release agent on it, like Vaseline.  Stretch the fabric against it.  Then infuse the fabric with either PVA glue (school glue/Elmers), or hot melt glue.  Saturate the fabric with it.  As you add the glue, work the fabric into the shape if it isn't flat.  For hot melt glue use a heat gun to melt the glue into a thin liquid so it flows into a smooth layer and saturates the cloth.  Let it dry or cool.  Another method is to make a high concentration starch solution, soak the fabric in it until the fabric is saturated, then work the fabric over the form and let it dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fabric with either type of glue will be translucent.  The starched fabric will look like the fabric. Any of these will retain the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it fits with the look you want, but Tyvek can look pretty good.  As long as it stays smooth, it has the look of Tyvek.  But it will wrinkle and soften, in which case it will look more like cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T07:49:34.067" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T07:49:34.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7580" CreationDate="2019-10-07T08:23:04.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make a basic repair of the area. And then apply on top of it a bright smiley. Or a skeleton. Or a climbing Santa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T08:23:04.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7580" CreationDate="2019-10-07T08:47:13.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A less noticable way to repair such a tear is to patch it from behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut a patch of matching fabric that covers the whole gap plus one inch in every dimension. Position the patch behind the tear and hand-sew a few stitches to keep it in place and keep the edges of the tear closed. You should use a contrasting thread color because you need to remove the stitches later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then choose which stitch and yarn color you want to decorate your shirt with on your sewing machine. Sew a wild criss-cross pattern all over the tear and make sure the edges of the stitches overlap the edge of the patch below (to keep it from fraying). I suggest going for a chaotic pattern, because it's very hard to sew a perfectly geometrical criss-cross with a sewing machine and any slight deviation will look odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end, cut and remove the contrasting basting thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of this method are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The patch isn't visible from the front.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The criss-cross stabilizes the fabric in the whole area and reduces the risk of further tearing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can make it look as if intended.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-10-07T09:18:40.017" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T09:18:40.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7580" CreationDate="2019-10-07T14:02:27.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that you'll be able to disguise the holes in any way that's not noticeable; instead, I would recommend looking into the Japanese process &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sashiko&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sashiko&lt;/a&gt;,&quot; a mending process made deliberately visible. Based on your other questions, you are quite new to sewing and embroidery, so you may wish to start with a more simple pattern like the one shown on the bottom; with practice, a wide range of more complex patterns exist that you can use in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPuTe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPuTe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of sashiko stitching from Wikipedia article&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wide range of online tutorials exist to get you started, frequently focusing on a diamond or square pattern similar to the bottom example; the repair will be solid and should help prevent further damage to the area, and will make your shirt uniquely your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T14:02:27.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7577" CreationDate="2019-10-07T15:41:23.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bobbin pad? Or spool pad? I use spool pads to protect the surface of my antique sewing machine (1940's Singer Featherweight). Different shaped spools can sometimes rub on the surface around the spool area. I didn't use pads when I had a modern machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes your thread might come on a different sized spool or a different size of hole in the middle, and a felt pad can help a spool with a larger hole sit better on the machine, and keep a constant tension instead of jumping around a lot. A friend's machine is very touchy about how it is threaded, and for shorter height spools a pad helps align the thread more with what the machine likes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought my spool pads on Etsy and they are 100% wool and 5mm thick in a variety of colors. But you could likely use any felt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6934" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T15:41:23.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7590" CreationDate="2019-10-07T16:15:30.210" Score="2" ViewCount="3282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to paint something on my 'Naugahyde leather' backpack. What type of paint should I use for that? I have already tried it with fabric paint, but it got smudged after a couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8463" LastEditorUserId="8463" LastEditDate="2019-10-10T04:06:53.800" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T07:54:43.940" Title="Painting a backpack" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7588" CreationDate="2019-10-07T18:22:38.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smudging can only mean either it hasn't dried properly or it's come into contact with something that softens it again. I reckon it's more likely to have been abraded. This could happen very easily if the paint is unsuitable for the fabric, but you're the one with the paint and backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular some paints aren't suitable for synthetic fabrics, as they rely on soaking in to cotton a little. This may be the problem you've got. I've had some success stencilling with spray paint onto synthetic fabrics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T18:22:38.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7588" CreationDate="2019-10-07T18:29:55.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fabric paint&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;acrylic paint&lt;/strong&gt; are probably still your best options for painting a backpack. However, you may want to consider a better quality brand of paint if it smudges right off after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things you might want to consider are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash the fabric first before painting, if possible. Sometimes they're treated to be stain-resistant, which would make it more difficult for paints to stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're using acrylic paint, you may want to mix it with a binder medium to help it &quot;stick&quot; better to the fabric. (Example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://canarystreetcrafts.com/how-to-turn-any-acrylic-paint-into-fabric-paint/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://canarystreetcrafts.com/how-to-turn-any-acrylic-paint-into-fabric-paint/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another option would be to paint on canvas (like the material used for canvas tote bags), and then sew the canvas onto the backpack. (Example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artistshelpingchildren.org/kidscraftsactivitiesblog/2009/08/how-to-personalize-your-school-bags-draw-on-and-paint-your-backpacks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.artistshelpingchildren.org/kidscraftsactivitiesblog/2009/08/how-to-personalize-your-school-bags-draw-on-and-paint-your-backpacks/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may consider applying gesso first to help prevent the fabric from absorbing so much paint that it doesn't show up. (See here for details: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Painted-Garden-Backpack/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/id/Painted-Garden-Backpack/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After painting, use a hair dryer to heat-set the paint after the paint has completely dried (at least 24 hours). This is also mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://canarystreetcrafts.com/how-to-turn-any-acrylic-paint-into-fabric-paint/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://canarystreetcrafts.com/how-to-turn-any-acrylic-paint-into-fabric-paint/&lt;/a&gt;. They suggest using an iron, but depending on where on the backpack you're painting, the fabric might not be flat enough for you to iron over. I would also personally be slightly worried about putting a backpack into a clothes dryer, in case it damages the bag - check the care tags on the backpack to see if it can be put in a dryer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your backpack is made of a synthetic material (like nylon) or another non-porous material like leather (my first backpack was leather), you can try alcohol inks. I have personally never tried using alcohol inks before, though, so I'm not sure how well it works on synthetic fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T18:29:55.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-08T17:42:13.233" Score="4" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes write for hours per day (calligraphy), and my hand starts hurting because of holding the pen for so long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a solution to this problem, e.g. some kind of glove or pen-strap that reduces pressure on the fingers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1918" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T15:23:21.540" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T15:04:46.323" Title="Something against hand pain due to writing?" Tags="|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2019-10-08T22:34:30.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;People with arthritis and various other ailments and injuries that affect their hands increase the size of what they hold.  This lets you use more of your hand to hold the pen and apply less pressure.  The common technique is to stick the pen into some form of foam or rubber grip, or even a rubber ball.  I have no idea how compatible this would be with the motions and control needed for calligraphy, but it's an inexpensive thing to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the most important thing is to listen to your body.  Take regular breaks, and do other motions with your hands to relax your muscles.  If you're feeling pain, you've been doing it for too long without a break.  I'm not familiar with calligraphy techniques, but there may be things like hand positions that are less stressful on your body, that would allow you to work longer before needing a break.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-10-08T22:43:07.930" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T22:43:07.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2019-10-09T00:14:39.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are &quot;very concerned&quot;, talk to your General Practitioner MD. He may refer you for physical therapy. Therapists have access to many writing assistive technologies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used (and still do sometimes) different rubber tubes, slipped over pens, pencils, etc. They relieve my hand pain, which is due to a neurological injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure your PC environment is ergonomically correct. Easy workstation guides are easily found (online). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T15:18:01.777" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T15:18:01.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1839" CreationDate="2019-10-09T00:28:46.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read your manual... but my manual for my 1892 and 1926 Singer machines, each a different model.  Say but one thing.  &lt;strong&gt;Too much thread tension.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bobbin tension is one thing that hardly ever need attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both manuals showing graphics much like your photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T00:28:46.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7566" CreationDate="2019-10-09T00:38:00.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most are a tempered piece of thin sheet steel. The teeth are cut by a diamond-encrusted blade in your simple hand coping saw. Then you must cut each to tune.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first search would be &amp;quot;tempered thin sheet steel.&amp;quot; Good luck to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T13:26:06.707" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T13:26:06.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2246" CreationDate="2019-10-09T00:46:00.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With your particular project, heating time might be adjusted to a longer heat time (slowly testing) for better viscious welding of the individual pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many materials, tempering is the answer.  Steel, Brass, Glass, and many plastics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating to a non-melting temperature, then slowly cooling over a long period of time.  It is a &quot;recipe&quot; different for each material.  One reason blacksmiths were said to have knowledge of the &lt;strong&gt;Black Arts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T00:46:00.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5650" CreationDate="2019-10-09T00:59:39.700" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://cedarstripkayak.wordpress.com/lumber-selection/162-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a chart of wood densities&lt;/a&gt;. Through personal experience I know pine and fir are soft. Most fruit trees grow slower, thus are harder. Similar are nut trees, and red oak, which are very hard when dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the wood you inquired is first.  You'll have to compare with some of the others. Higher density = more difficult to carve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always be cautious of sharp tools. Emergency Room &amp;amp; Orthopedic trips are typically unpleasant when carving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T15:21:12.283" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T15:21:12.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7556" CreationDate="2019-10-09T01:03:30.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a thread type or color you must use...double or triple the thread in the needle. If you had something or someone that could ply the threads (spin them together) you'd have the best results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T01:03:30.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6252" CreationDate="2019-10-09T01:08:31.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mixing is the first. But a detailed color wheel would be very helpful in your process.  Ends by the means. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color indexing is a science in itself. One for paints, one for monitors, one for printing, inkjet, laser, 8+ color lithographic press. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press Operations Markup departments have very sophisticated tools. They must intermittently index their monitors to the pallets of the colors used by the print department (I've worked in this world).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search for a color wheel, more details are better. You will have something you can use as a reference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T01:15:10.140" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T01:15:10.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7525" CreationDate="2019-10-09T01:23:09.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the weave of the cloth makes a very big difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a weaver and have seen professional looms in action. Grain, as I understand, is the Warp + Weft in threads per square mm, or inch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grain is a living part of a fabric.  I would take that into accord, but I've not done a lot of &quot;fine embrodery&quot;. It is just logical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T01:23:09.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2246" CreationDate="2019-10-09T03:13:26.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about using a clear lacquer or resin? &#xA;If they have a solid layer over them it would make them stronger, I'm guessing they break between the beads when they do get broken.&#xA;It will add some expense but you could use a caulking gun &amp;amp; silicone to make your moulds if you wanted to pour acrylic over them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3094" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T03:13:26.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7695" CreationDate="2019-10-09T19:15:24.620" Score="6" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to recreate a certain style of historical mitts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/heDCl.jpg&quot; height=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/heDCl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click here&lt;/a&gt; for bigger image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrXLw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrXLw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have worked from the bottom edge (at the ellbow) up in the round and are now at the point where I need to form the pointy finish. Since I don't have any instruction or pattern to guide me, I'm at a loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The images I have all indicate that one half of the mitt (at the palm) is bound off in a straight line. Doing that would open up the round and leave me with the other half (back of the hand) on a single needle. But how do I knit the rest of the top to give it a seamless look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I knit the additional rows to create the triangle at the back of the hand first and bind off all rows in one go? Or should I bind off half the stitches and continue  decreasing the rows until I'm left with a final stitch at the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mitts are knit in simple stockinette stitch and are supposed to have a simple knit bind off, so there won't be any fancy lace or any of those tiny loops you can see in the pictures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-10-14T16:19:12.357" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T12:36:21.623" Title="How to give a mitt knit in the round a pointy finish?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6378" CreationDate="2019-10-10T06:23:37.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might seem or sound a little silly, but I always do this, and have done it for bigger projects as well (like when I made a speaker out of cardboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted a nice coating so I used a little bit too much mod podge (and too little water), so well...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The solution basically is: get dust, sand, or any other very smooth and light powder (you can also try any dry color powders, as they could even give texture to your blocks). Get it to the finest stage (blend it if it is coarse or has granules and such). Use a sieve to filter out crude leftovers, collect it in a paper, or something similar, and just plainly blow it across the blocks (do so with every single one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8480" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-10T08:46:29.770" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T08:46:29.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2019-10-10T06:43:25.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something I have done is soaking my hands in warm water (not lukewarm, not boiling hot, just as much heat as you can handle) before, after, and in between the periods of writing (say, taking a break for half an hour or so). I did that for many of my long writing projects in school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another, slightly foolish trick would be trying to hold the pen with all your fingers at once; one of my classmates did that. She was one of those students who wrote nine pages for a one line question, so maybe that habit helped (or at least didn't cause any harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8480" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-10-10T13:24:23.480" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T13:24:23.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7580" CreationDate="2019-10-10T07:09:03.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're slightly lucky it's torn in a fashionable way, so what I would do (and did with one of my jackets) is to use small strips (scraps, if you have them) of something like leather, faux leather, corduroy, velvet, basically any high fashion fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're female, laces would also work. Just lace the gap from the shoulder seam all the way through the side seam only on that particular side (if your mind is able to allow asymmetry, which a matter of fact looks awesome); if not, just repeat it on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using fabric instead of laces, cut a straight rectangular strip (something similar to what is often sewn on the back of jeans near the loops in the belt line, but a little less wide) and then just sew it over the torn area (yes, it's a patch, but that's a style nowadays); like above, if you want you can do it on both sides. If you want, you can also go a bit extreme! Have a fabric of that exact length of that portion of the jacket (from collar to shoulder to collar bone) and just sew it all over the whole piece. (I'm always thinking leather or leather-y texture like faux leather, but it's also fine if it is any other fabric.) If you don't want extreme but advanced and complicated, you could get some extra denim from a pair of jeans or old clothes you no longer wear, make some mini pockets out of it, and sew it on both sides to hide the torn side and the patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be honest, there's many ways of fixing it. You just have to think a bit creatively and out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8480" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-10-10T13:19:34.073" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T13:19:34.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2246" CreationDate="2019-10-10T07:21:55.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two methods:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy, just pour liquid super glue (not the gel-ish but the fully liquid one, like water consistency) all over the art after you've completed it. It's plastic so I'm hoping it will be reversible if you'd try to detach them.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A little too over the top, but what you can do is before starting the melting process, just after you're done sorting them according to colors and setting them, make a little hole in them horizontally (like the one that already exists, but from the other side) and then passing a thread through all of them in the exact order, like you would do for a garland. And then tie the thread at the end. This way they'll all be connected after and before melting them (and for the reversible - just cut the thread and they'll easily fall apart) (I personally did this with a bracelet i once made for my girlfriend).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8480" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-10T08:39:24.390" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T08:39:24.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7567" CreationDate="2019-10-10T07:44:07.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polystyrene sheets (thermocol is one brand) and cardboard sheets are your friends here! Take the polystyrene sheet, cut it one inch longer than the drafting film on all sides, cover the poly-sheet with colored paper or paint it (optional, and not really necessary as yours is oil painting, but would be needed if it's just a pencil or charcoal sketch), stick the film on the poly-sheet (don't use hot glue or superglue on polystyrene ever; I learned this the hard way), then turn the painting upside down, with the painting facing the floor poly-sheet on top, and stick a cardboard sheet cut exact to size and then long strips of cardboard for the sides and the extra inch you left earlier on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; Looks like a legit frame because of the brown color of cardboard, is much lighter, is very cheap and easy to get your hands on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; Absolutely none&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S.&lt;/strong&gt; For the glass thing you were talking, you surely can put glass on it but that would make it sensitive and fragile, so maybe you can also try saran wrap or maybe OHP sheets. With glass you always have to be super conscious while handling it, and also while picking up from the sides so you don't cut yourself; this way it's just more kid/teen/student friendly. But if you're an adult and it's going to stay in your office or on a private showcase, etc, go ahead, use all the glass you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8480" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-10-11T13:50:32.093" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T13:50:32.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7588" CreationDate="2019-10-10T07:54:43.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d consider leather shoe dyes. Alternatively, embroidery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6817" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T07:54:43.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2019-10-10T13:55:48.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If your hands start hurting or feeling sore, take a break.&lt;/strong&gt; Listen to your body - if something hurts, it needs to rest. Otherwise, you can risk permanently injuring/disabling yourself. One artist whom I follow, Yuumei, has shared her experience with this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.deviantart.com/yuumei/journal/PSA-for-Artists-Don-t-make-the-same-mistake-I-did-577426340&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.deviantart.com/yuumei/journal/PSA-for-Artists-Don-t-make-the-same-mistake-I-did-577426340&lt;/a&gt;. I personally will take breaks to stretch my hands and massage the sore parts of my fingers. If they're still hurting after a break, then it means I'm done for the day. It's not worth risking permanent disability by pushing yourself to draw/write for a few more hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check your hand/wrist alignment when you're writing.&lt;/strong&gt; I've found it helpful to rest my wrist on a rubber/foam coaster - it adjusts the angle of my wrist just enough to relieve some of the pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Explore other methods of calligraphy.&lt;/strong&gt; I used to draw extensively in pencil (graphic and colored pencil), but over time I found that the pressure created a lot of pain in my joints, especially where I held the pencil or rested my hand/fingers against the table. I started painting instead, which doesn't require much pressure to create a visible mark (and requires much less energy to fill a space with color). Perhaps try using a brush instead of a pen from time to time, and see if that provides an outlet for you to continue doing calligraphy without wearing your hands out as much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastActivityDate="2019-10-10T13:55:48.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7582" CreationDate="2019-10-11T08:22:06.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reflex thought which came to my mind when I saw your picture was &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neoprene#Aquatics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;neoprene&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. You might not be able to shape it exactly like in the picture (I am no expert, don't really trust me), but it has a very good chance to look alien ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T08:22:06.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7625" CreationDate="2019-10-12T14:10:20.410" Score="3" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experience with drawing with color pencils, water colors and pastel. Now I want to try it with markers. As I am a newbie to markers, I have a lack of knowledge about those. I wonder if it is hard to blend colors when using markers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8463" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T16:08:04.427" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T16:08:04.427" Title="Blend colors with markers" Tags="|drawing|markers|blending|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7614" CreationDate="2019-10-13T12:22:09.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very hard to blend colors with markers and you can't use normal paper for it because on rough paper marker spreads so you need a proper sketch paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8488" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T12:22:09.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-13T22:42:51.630" Score="2" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got drawings and other art on 18x24 inch and larger format papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I inexpensively crop these papers so that the edges are straight and the corners perfectly right angled?  Professionally so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T08:09:29.633" Title="How to crop large format paper" Tags="|paper|paper-cutter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7627" CreationDate="2019-10-13T22:47:11.540" Score="9" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was at a life drawing session and one of the artists mentioned that I should avoid using staining watercolors but instead use transparent watercolors because transparent watercolors could be cleanly lifted from the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I tell the difference between staining and transparent watercolor paints by looking at the paint tube or pan packaging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:33:20.533" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T13:14:33.140" Title="Staining vs transparent watercolor paints" Tags="|paint|watercolor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-14T01:22:54.640" Score="2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some effective methods to practice drawing anatomy, preferably in 15-30 minute time increments? Looking for ways to structure a session of practice effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8490" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T19:38:21.840" Title="Effective ways to practice drawing anatomy?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7618" CreationDate="2019-10-14T03:07:45.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being effective at drawing anatomy, is practicing often.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Maybe start with one body part at a time. You'll find body parts that you find more enjoyable. Understanding skeletal/muscle structures of the human body would be a huge bonus. Wikipedia would definitely have information about human anatomy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For quick sketches/drawings of anatomy I use:&#xA;unsplash.com&#xA;or&#xA;pixabay.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unsplash has freely usable images, with a lot of human subjects, full body subjects.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2019-10-16T00:22:52.110" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T00:22:52.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7616" CreationDate="2019-10-14T06:37:40.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple DIY way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a ruler along the line to be cut. Use a cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more professional way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a paper guillotine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMpj1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMpj1.png&quot; alt=&quot;paper guillotine&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of the ruler + cutter is that you can cut lines anywhere, anyhow, even holes. The guillotine will help you get cuts perpendicular to one edge, and the cuts must start at one edge of the sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T06:37:40.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6465" CreationDate="2019-10-14T06:43:32.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried my hands on making charcoal with coconut shells. I used the technique shared by most of the youtubers where they use a perforated can to cook the raw material(in this case broken pieces of coconut shell). The result was not that appealing in the sense that the charcoal I ended up with was not making dark marks as expected in the paper. Instead, there was grooves on paper. In effect, the charcoal was not soft enough to get disintegrated and absorbed to the paper. Later I tried with a stick of Gliricidia sepium a locally available soft wood. It has excellent blending ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8199" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T06:43:32.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7616" CreationDate="2019-10-14T08:09:29.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's not too big.  You may be able to do it with an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cathedral-A3-Rotary-Paper-Trimmer/dp/B000Y13WAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A3 rotary trimmer&lt;/a&gt;, if you cut the ends off first (A3 is 420&amp;times;297&amp;nbsp;mm or 11.7&amp;times;16.5 inches).  These are normally slightly oversized (as is the example I linked), and may be sold under other names in places that don't use A-series paper, possibly with a different printed scale but the same overall dimensions.  These aren't expensive, and have edges to square up against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the finest work I'd trim one sheet at a time, but you can do 5-10 sheets at a time.  Mine is only A4, and I mostly use it on photos.  With practice you can get the cut in exactly the right place - no photo on the bit trimmed off, no border on the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T08:09:29.633" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7624" CreationDate="2019-10-14T17:01:21.217" Score="5" ViewCount="3415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on using markers for a drawing. As I have never used markers, I lack knowledge about them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it okay to use them on normal drawing paper, or should I use sketch paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8463" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T19:59:42.103" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T00:32:37.737" Title="What papers are suitable for markers?" Tags="|drawing|paper|markers|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2019-10-14T17:24:10.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;is it okay&quot;, that implies that there's a rule about what you can use with what, or that everybody who uses markers, uses a particular kind of paper for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any medium will have different characteristics on different kinds of paper.  You probably want to avoid something that's incompatible.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a medium that's thick and brittle on tissue paper; it's likely to flake off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a medium that won't adhere to the surface, so it will tend to aggregate in spots rather than stay where you put it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a chemical incompatibility like acidity/alkalinity, where the medium and paper can interact and change color or other characteristics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a medium that requires a different kind of surface texture to work as intended, like a rough surface to abrade a material like chalk or charcoal, or an extremely smooth surface to use a metal-tipped technical pen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get beyond those kinds of problems, it's more a case that different kinds of paper will give you different kinds of appearance.  It may also require the right techniques and some practice to &quot;bend the combination to your will&quot;.  Part of art is experimenting with those variations to see what combinations give you results you find pleasing or achieve what you're trying to accomplish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-10-17T20:17:36.307" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T20:17:36.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7614" CreationDate="2019-10-14T17:38:51.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to blend using markers, though like any new medium it can take some practice as well as depend on the type of marker you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water-based markers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blending water-based markers requires little to no additional special equipment, just some water and a way to apply it. As you mention experience with watercolors, this may feel fairly intuitive to you. You'll use either a standard brush or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/Pentel-Vistage-Water-Brush-Medium/pd/1774&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;water brush&lt;/a&gt; (a hollow brush pen that can be filled with water) to apply water to your paper and fade or blend your colors. Additionally, you can use a non-porous surface to build up some ink from the marker and use it very similarly to paint by picking the ink back up off that surface with your brush/water brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blog &lt;a href=&quot;https://thefrugalcrafter.wordpress.com/tag/blending-watercolor-markers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Frugal Crafter&lt;/a&gt; has an entry showing a wide variety of samples of both test blending and artwork done using inexpensive water-based markers and brushes to blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brands include Tombow, Marvy LePlume, Crayola, Mr. Sketch, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alcohol-based markers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With alcohol based markers, the key to blending is to work while the ink is still wet; this can mean working quickly from one color to another on the page, touching the tips of two markers together, or applying one marker to a nonporous surface and picking the color up with another. Additionally, many brands feature a &quot;colorless blender&quot; pen that contains only the solvent and can be used to help fade a color into the paper's color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.deviantart.com/khallandra/journal/PE-Tips-for-Blending-with-Markers-527590028&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Khallandra on DeviantArt&lt;/a&gt; offers a nice rundown of various blending techniques with a large number of sample images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brands include Copic, Prismacolor, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solvent-based markers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solvent-based (xylene, etc) markers may behave fairly similarly to alcohol-based markers, and even may include the option of a colorless blender for them. Their blending is not as smooth as that of alcohol-based markers, however this may vary to some degree by brand. I'll note that while I personally have used them in the past, it was briefly and some time ago due to the heavy fumes released by the solvents, which can cause eye and lung irritation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thecuriouslycreative.com/topics/the-complete-beginners-guide-to-art-markers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Curiously Creative&lt;/a&gt; blog has a guide to general marker types, which has the best general, neutral information I could find on solvent-based markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brands include Sharpie, Chartpak, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T17:38:51.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2019-10-14T17:51:12.457" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you're defining as &quot;normal drawing paper&quot; or &quot;sketch paper,&quot; but you can ultimately use markers on any surface, however you will experience different results depending on the qualities of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Markers will generally soak into the paper and bleed to some degree (with some brands tending to bleed more than others); working with a thicker paper like bristol or watercolor paper will tend to resist bleed-through better than thinner papers like newsprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tooth&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll generally get a smoother result with a smoother surface, though depending on the result you're looking for, you may like the look of using a paper with more tooth to it. Experiment here to see what you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coatings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some papers (marker pads, for instance) will be coated to prevent bleed-through on a thinner sheet; this can allow for better workability in blending, but may also result in less saturated colors as the ink cannot soak into the surface. This can also create issues with layering multiple colors or extensive blending; again, this may come to personal preference and style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Absorption&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on extremely heavy blending, particularly using water and water-based markers, you may wish to consider a paper that is better suited to heavy water applications such as a smooth watercolor paper over a lighter paper that may warp or disintegrate when saturated with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bleed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also wish to experiment with the amount of bleeding your chosen markers will exhibit on different papers. All markers will bleed to some degree (except, possibly, on coated papers), but some papers will wick the ink away from where you deposited it more than others. You'll want to find an amount of bleed that works for you, and learn to work with it as you're drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-10-14T17:51:12.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7617" CreationDate="2019-10-15T10:40:02.560" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Usually you can't&lt;/strong&gt;, as the packaging generally doesn't show this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What you can do&lt;/strong&gt;, is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;test the watercolour out in the store, which is often possible (if no direct means are given, you can ask an employee),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look up some reviews and see if they refer to the staining properties, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;look up or into the brand's colour charts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brands or ranges offer colour charts which tell you the staining levels using triangular symbols similar to the square shapes of the transparency level, like in the lower right corner here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/of4sx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/of4sx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mijello watercolour paint chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mijelloart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where △ = non-staining, ◭ = semi-staining, and ▲ = staining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others might use numbers to indicate the level, as is shown here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3YPl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3YPl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Daniel Smith colour chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The four symbols underneath every colour indicate &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lightfastness (using Roman numerals I - IV), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the staining level (using Arabic numerals 1 - 4, going from no staining to the highest level, respectively)&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;granulation (Y/N), and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;transparency level (⚪, ◑, ⚫).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T10:40:02.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-15T19:52:26.467" Score="4" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I draw people from life whenever and wherever I can. But it's tough to find drop-in life drawing sessions when I'm traveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a website or database or mailing list for drop-in life drawing sessions?  If so, what are the characteristics of that resource that make it a good solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T18:36:59.750" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T16:34:17.597" Title="Is there a website for drop-in life drawing sessions?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7506" CreationDate="2019-10-16T10:31:48.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that those are general design choices, and that &lt;strong&gt;the purpose of a passepartout is to make your artwork stand out&lt;/strong&gt;: if that means the borders of your passepartout are extremely small or large, or the upper border is broader than the lower one, or the left border is missing, that is completely fine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As with all things creative, &lt;strong&gt;it's your choice&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where can you recommend to read about such design considerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the question should be '&lt;em&gt;where to read about&lt;/em&gt;', as recommending places seems off-topic (e.g. &quot;the library!&quot;, or &quot;google!&quot;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think '&lt;em&gt;what other considerations should I take into account concerning design choices&lt;/em&gt;' is more appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something I have learned was to &lt;strong&gt;cut the inside edges in an angle&lt;/strong&gt;, making the hole in the passepartout increasingly larger from the artwork towards the glass panel/observer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Depending on the material used, this could mean a subtle change in colour will be visible (as the inside of the material could be less bleached or foamy, for example) around the edges, which is something to be mindful about.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should consider &lt;strong&gt;the shape of the passepartout&lt;/strong&gt;, as well: some artworks might be accentuated by an oval- or trapezium-shaped cutout.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And, even if the cutout is rectangular shaped, you can change the shape of the outer edges, as well (limited by potential framing, of course).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can &lt;strong&gt;layer passepartouts&lt;/strong&gt;. Mix different shapes and colours, use the relief you get this way to create a three-dimensional shape (like a landscape). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apart from the surface of the passepartout material, &lt;strong&gt;the edges can be coloured, or even painted&lt;/strong&gt;, too.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In addition to the other options, this allows for an infinite (and possibly overwhelming) range of possibilities and creative solutions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some material-oriented choices you might face :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the passepartout material is &lt;strong&gt;acid-free&lt;/strong&gt;, to prolong the durability of your artwork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take heed of &lt;strong&gt;the thickness of the material&lt;/strong&gt;. This determines not only the look of your artwork, but is also important when considering framing the entire piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This might be beyond the scope of your question, but, depending on where the framed passepartout is going to be hung, you might consider putting &lt;strong&gt;UV-resistant glass&lt;/strong&gt; in the frame. This will let both your artwork and your passepartout (especially light-coloured ones) retain their colours better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-10-16T10:31:48.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2019-10-17T20:47:12.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider using a wrist brace while writing.  It'll constrict your writing, so you'll need to practice with it before doing something that needs to look perfect. You can also search for &quot;writing brace&quot; to find something that's a little less obtrusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mI5Rom.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mI5Rom.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wrist brace&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen something that you can rest your hand on while you write that allows you to move more freely, like a mechanics creeper, but I can't find what I'm looking for. There's always the neoprene half-glove that makes moving your hand easier, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, and I think the root of the problem, is that you are holding the pen too tightly. Maybe a different sized pen would help with that. Getting a thicker grip would likely let you relax your hand some. Again, this might take some time to practice with the new stylus, but it should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've heard that cramps happen due to dehydration. Try drinking more water. Actual water, not tea, coffee, pop, alcohol, sports drinks, or anything else but straight water. Almost everything else has something in it to diminish the effect of straight water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastActivityDate="2019-10-17T20:47:12.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2019-10-18T15:04:46.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are triangular pen grips that can enable you to hold the pen more gently and with your hand in a more relaxed position.  Many are aimed at kids but there are bigger ones with rounded corners&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have to write for long periods these days but used them as a substitute for my Lamy Safari pens when I had to write a lot of lecture notes and take written exams.  These have a much nicer grip than many pens, but may not be suitable for what you're doing, despite being available with a range of fountain pen nibs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-10-18T15:04:46.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7638" CreationDate="2019-10-21T07:44:28.193" Score="4" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a very strong glue to stick the sole onto the bottom of a running shoe without destroying anything. I know some strong glues can be quite destructive. The shoes are Salomon SpeedCross 4's, the soles are rubber and the base is a hard rubbery-foam but I'm not sure of the actual composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6876" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T12:39:56.470" Title="Glue for shoe soles" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-21T12:52:18.920" Score="2" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start painting board game miniatures. I do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; want to take it to some crazy level with expensive setups, paints and tools. I have seen some tutorials involving basic acrylic paints which I have plenty of. The things I do not have on hand are primers (and sealers). I do not uses spray cans. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an effort to keep cost down and use what I already have on hand... Is there something I could just add to black / white acrylic paint to make it into a functional primer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T13:44:37.503" Title="Can I make primer from student grade acrylics?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7633" CreationDate="2019-10-21T13:44:37.503" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: &lt;strong&gt;No, you cannot make an effective primer out of paint.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primer is not just &quot;paint without pigment,&quot; and the purpose of it isn't as a base coat; the purpose of primer is to prepare your surface to accept your paint. Some surfaces are too porous to take paint properly (wood, masonry), other may have issues with the paint adhering properly (plastic, metal). By using a primer designed for that specific surface, you alter the surface to allow your paint to adhere properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When painting miniatures, a spray primer designed for miniatures of your type (plastic, metal, or resin) will give you the best results, as it is able to be easily applied to small areas without reducing or masking detail. Note that you should in fact be using a miniature primer, as many general purpose primers will &quot;fill in&quot; fine detail areas. There are a number of companies that produce supplies for miniature painting; these will be your best bets for purchasing a suitable primer. If you purchase from one of their retail stores, they can also answer questions for you about how best to use their products; if you are unable to purchase them in-store, I have also found their customer service people to be responsive and helpful via email.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to find a brush-on primer that will work, but you will likely end up with a thicker base coat that may reduce your detail; you'll want to practice with it until you can use a light enough touch. You will not be able to &quot;make primer&quot; that will be effective in any way; in this case, you do need the right tool for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T13:44:37.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6146" CreationDate="2019-10-21T14:42:03.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great technique for removing embroidery stitches popped up in a post on steemit &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://steemit.com/needleworkmonday/@sheilamenher/fabrics-embroidery-and-designs-how-to-undo-embroidered-cap-without-detail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://steemit.com/needleworkmonday/@sheilamenher/fabrics-embroidery-and-designs-how-to-undo-embroidered-cap-without-detail&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://steemit.com/needleworkmonday/@sheilamenher/fabrics-embroidery-and-designs-how-to-undo-embroidered-cap-without-detail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fabrics, Embroidery and Designs - how to undo embroidered cap without detail&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@sheilamenher suggests using a shaver, brush and snippers. Check it out, she provides instructions. &#xA;If you’ve already finished, please let us see the results. Thanks!&#xA;I also resteemed it on my blog @oceanmoon&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T14:42:03.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2019-10-21T18:42:18.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They call them hot knives. Specifically designed for making clean cuts through styrofoam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8512" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T18:42:18.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7632" CreationDate="2019-10-22T02:02:41.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used &quot;Shoe Goo&quot; and it has worked well on sport shoes used for everyday wear. Available on the net , not expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T02:02:41.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7632" CreationDate="2019-10-22T02:42:08.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of good glues for this.  Among the highly rated products, I'm not sure there will be a huge difference in results.  The specifics of the repair probably have a bigger effect than the particular glue.  You might find that a particular glue doesn't hold up well on your shoes.  In that case, try again with a different type of glue (not just a different brand of the same type of glue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've had the best luck in general with glues that are basically some type of rubber in a solvent.  These dry to a tough, very flexible joint.  These include: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B004BPHQWU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E6000&lt;/a&gt; (my usual go-to adhesive for this stuff), and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002L9AL84&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shoe Goo&lt;/a&gt;.  They're both usually among the top choices in reviews for adhesives for this purpose.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00ANV704U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Barge&lt;/a&gt; is another popular one of this type.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are versions of Superglue (cyanoacrylate) that contain a suspension of rubber particles.  These are strong and remain flexible.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00Q3IDN5M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boot-Fix Shoe Glue&lt;/a&gt; is a popular example, as is their similar &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01G8D69FW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shoe-Fix Glue&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Gel-Control-4g-Super-Glue-6-Pack-234790/202057896&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Loctite&lt;/a&gt; makes a similar product.  I've never tried these.  I'm hesitant to use Superglue on some repairs because it does attack some materials.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B004Y960V6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Loctite Stik n' Seal Extreme Conditions Adhesive&lt;/a&gt; gets high marks (another one I've never tried, and not sure what the adhesive contains).  Loctite also makes a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-0-60-fl-oz-Shoe-Glue-2320563/303714976&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shoe glue&lt;/a&gt;  that is often mentioned in reviews (not sure if it is the same stuff).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some people have good luck with polyurethane adhesive (like Gorilla Glue).  I wouldn't use the original type that expands as it cures because it can make an absolute mess of your shoes, but there is a clear, non-expanding type identified as &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B074J7XQZT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Clear&quot;, &quot;No-Foam Formula&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: all product links above are just to identify the products; they aren't endorsing a particular retailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some important considerations for a long-lasting repair:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The surfaces to be joined need to be very clean.  For some types of glue, they also need to be completely dry.  For cyanoacrylate (like Superglue) and polyurethane (like Gorilla glue), a little residual moisture will speed and strengthen bonding (which may not be a good thing because it won't provide an opportunity to align or realign things).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most glues set, at which point everything will seem firm, but they don't achieve full strength until the glue fully cures.  That is typically at least hours, and in some cases, several days.  If you don't wait for the cure to be complete, the bond won't last.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some glues require clamping to keep pressure on the glue joint until the glue is set or cured.  If you don't do that, the joint will be much weaker.  Some glues require coating both surfaces and then letting the glue bond with that surface and dry a bit before joining the pieces.  Bottom line, a strong glue joint requires following the instructions for the glue you select.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bond is only as strong as the material it is holding.  If things separated only because the original adhesive failed, new glue can do a good job of repairing it.  But sometimes the bond fails because the material, itself, fatigues or deteriorates.  The original glue may still be intact, but some of the surface material separated and went with the glue.  Once the material starts to deteriorate, a glue joint won't last long, as more material will pull off with the new glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-01-08T12:39:56.470" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T12:39:56.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7632" CreationDate="2019-10-22T15:43:15.650" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had both successes and failures repairing shoes with &lt;em&gt;hot glue&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good at filling gaps, reasonably flexible, and bonds well to many of the materials used (in fact it's very similar in composition to some), &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; it needs to be held securely for quite some time as it cools slowly, and if the surface is damp or has got dirty since the gap opened, bonding is less certain.  It also becomes less flexible in very cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T15:43:15.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7618" CreationDate="2019-10-22T19:38:21.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason drawing the human form is such a challenge is how our brains work, we have a symbolic representation of what humans &quot;look like&quot; in our minds but that is not how bodies actually look in real life. So the struggle in life drawing is to draw as the eye sees the form, not as the mind records it. Understanding human anatomy and lots of practice (which includes lots of failure in the process) is the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a good book on anatomy and drawing technique. We used &quot;Drawing the Human Form&quot; by William A. Berry at my college. There are others. These will show you the relationship between the structures of the body and the forms they create. The skeleton, the musculature over it, and the skin that wraps it, they define the form a body takes. How these forms react to light, where highlights and shadows fall, that is what you want to put in your drawings. Studying these books will help you understand that connection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attend life drawing sessions. Nothing beats drawing a live human being for what you are after and few things are more challenging. Often there will be a teacher or other artists guiding these sessions that can work with you to correct your technique. Try to be loose, use soft drawing media like charcoal on cheap paper, don't be fussy. Also pay attention to where the light is coming from in relationship to the body and use that to model the form. You could try getting friends and family to pose for you, but that can increase the challenge as it becomes more personal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can, take a course on drawing the human form at a local school or artists collective. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T19:38:21.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2832" CreationDate="2019-10-25T17:08:07.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about white particularly but you can buy colored transparent paints, even some Walmarts have it. It's mainly used to give the appearance of stained glass but depending on how thick you spray it on, you can see through it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8526" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2019-10-30T00:07:27.347" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T00:07:27.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-27T22:34:02.187" Score="1" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given this statue at an estate sale and have no idea what it is or where it is from. Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I did some googling and it seems to look like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/56220650_mayan-stone-tenon-monkey-head-ex-arte-primitivo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mayan stone&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vnSey.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vnSey.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCYT2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCYT2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5paMa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5paMa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Top&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtaGU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtaGU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8535" LastEditorUserId="8535" LastEditDate="2019-10-27T23:32:02.373" LastActivityDate="2019-10-27T23:32:02.373" Title="Trying to Identify Stone Statue" Tags="|stones|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-11-07T11:44:34.843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7652" CreationDate="2019-10-29T03:03:54.133" Score="2" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone knows the technical terminology for the various techniques/strategies/stitches used in the following pictures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like each panel in the first picture are separate panels sewn together. In the second picture it looks like the front, back, and bottom are one piece and the sides are separate but I can't say for sure with my extremely low knowledge of sewing. Am I far off in my assumptions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just looking to make these for personal use because I'd like reduce the amount of waste I generate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dYTlN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dYTlN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQAJX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQAJX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8543" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-10-29T07:41:32.047" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T15:00:41.913" Title="What are the technical terms/techniques involved in sewing &quot;paper bag&quot; like bags?" Tags="|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-29T14:56:52.257" Score="6" ViewCount="1108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought indigo powder to color my soaps blue (cold/hot process saponification). Unfortunately I received something which color is closer to match than blue jeans...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After some internet research I found that what I have is unfermented indigo powder, while the blue colorant is made with fermented indigo; very detailed information &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmicb.2018.02196/full&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: does someone have a recipe to ferment my green powder to get something blue I can use in my soaps? I found a lot of vat recipes, but that's to dye fabric and I don't think it will work in soaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-14T11:13:22.810" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T15:03:55.427" Title="How to ferment green indigo powder to make it blue" Tags="|pigments|soap-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2019-10-29T21:14:02.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully cleaned all my stumps and tortillions without damaging their shape.  I just rubbed them on an old piece of cotton sheeting, then tested to see if they were clean on a piece of paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8545" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T21:14:02.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2019-10-29T23:00:54.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If fabrics are very delicate leaving long tails and tying the threads may be preferable to backstitching.  I also rarely backstitch if I am piecing quilt blocks or doing aplique work, but instead make sure that all stitches get sewn through or rows will be crossed with other stithcingto hold in place.  Never back stitch if you do not want to show extra bulk or more thread density in your stichline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8546" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T23:00:54.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7647" CreationDate="2019-10-30T15:00:41.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there is a lot to &lt;em&gt;unpack&lt;/em&gt; here, hah. But seeing from other comments that you are new to sewing, I can understand how it can be a little daunting to try and make a direct replication of something you've found online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no formal &quot;technique&quot; you will need to follow, but rather a knowledge and understanding of the materials you will need to sew a project. Here is a rough guide to the process I follow when trying to replicate something:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determining if you want to try and hand sew &lt;strong&gt;by hand&lt;/strong&gt; or a &lt;strong&gt;sewing machine&lt;/strong&gt;. I would go with a machine since this bag looks like it has nothing more than straight stitches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material&lt;/strong&gt; of the bag. There is a lot to consider here - the amount of weight you want the bag to be able to carry, do you want it waterproof, do you want it easily washable? Picking your use for the bag will help determine the type of fabric you will want to use for your project. I would go with a thicker cotton, cotton blend, maybe a thicker flannel if you want to replicate the fuzziness of this particular example. These fabrics are also kind to beginners. An additional item to consider is if you want your sides to be able to stand up like that, you might need what is called &quot;interfacing&quot; and it comes in iron-on or sew-in and it can help add rigidity to the sides and bottom support of your bag. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Construction&lt;/strong&gt; layout of the bag. You will want to self-draft a pattern or try to find one on the internet that you can copy and test out measurements on before you start cutting and sewing together. This is as easy as getting some paper or cheap muslin cloth and drawing some shapes and pinning them together to see if you like how it is looking, and determine how you want to assemble the bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking your pattern/muslin draft and cutting out the real fabric and going through the final assembly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other assorted musings about the provided image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The zig-zag cut at the top is called &quot;pinking&quot; and there are special scissors that do that called pinking shears. They are typically used to cut fabrics that have a tenancy to fray, and not necessarily used for decoration. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll want an iron to be able to flatten seams (where the fabrics are sewn together) and to create those creases on the sides of the bags. Irons will typically come with heat settings for the types of material you are using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this can give you a good starting point! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8551" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T15:00:41.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-10-31T14:09:35.620" Score="3" ViewCount="7270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed how two surfaces of chart paper are different from each other: one is rough while the other is smooth.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am getting different opinions about choosing which side is more suitable for drawing. Most of my friends are preferring rough surfaces for drawing in order to get more accurate shading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know which side of chart paper is more suitable for pencil drawing or painting, so &lt;strong&gt;what are the benefits of using either side when drawing&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8550" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-12-27T14:04:36.333" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T19:06:20.880" Title="What are the (dis)advantages of both sides of chart paper for drawing or painting?" Tags="|drawing|paper|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-01T13:35:31.437" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I am not a trained artist, I have heard about different types of pencils for making a pencil drawing.I do not know much about it and also why it so( HB pencils).I like to know more about it as I want to make much better drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8550" LastEditorDisplayName="user8550" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T17:55:34.220" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T17:55:34.220" Title="What are the different types of pencils used to make pencil drawing?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-11-17T20:35:44.343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7657" CreationDate="2019-11-01T15:21:12.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are H ( hard) grades ; H to 6H , HB, and B (soft) types; B to 4B (?). The B grades get about as soft as using charcoal; The hard types can cut some papers. I expect there is much more specific info on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T15:21:12.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-01T16:30:52.127" Score="5" ViewCount="5308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make paper look aged and then print on it a picture, I tried with coffee but the results were bad, the picture quality is poor on the coffee paper compared with the white paper, the colors are really dull and it is less saturated. I tired to fix this with photoshop but nothing worked out, We don't have ivory/yellow/brown papers available in my country and I can't get it online too. I was thinking to buy maybe a fixative spray, I contacted all stores here, they don't sell it but they do sell a acrylic varnish mat spray, will that helps ? or I shouldn't be using an acrylic spray on an inkjet photo ? it'd be much appreciated if you guys can help me with an aging technique (it doesn't need to  appear really old or something) just a yellowish/brownish color. I don't want to wet the paper with coffee or tea or anything because I lose quality  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8560" LastActivityDate="2021-03-26T19:16:49.270" Title="How can I make paper look old without wetting it?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2019-11-01T17:03:59.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a candle or heat source you can try to hold the paper over it carefully and &quot;bake&quot; the paper to get it to a different color. You will need to go slow to ensure that you do not light it on fire, scorch, or get too many crinkles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done this this make scrolls for a project, it works fairly well. If you end up getting some waves or crinkles in the paper you can try to lightly mist it with water and then put it under something heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth it to print the picture first and then try to weather the paper as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8551" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T17:03:59.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7661" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-02T19:56:51.773" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T19:56:51.773" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T19:56:51.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7662" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-02T19:56:51.773" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use and maintenance of markers. You can ask after techniques, mixing of colours, corrections, the combination with other materials, and more." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:20:31.613" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:20:31.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7663" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-02T19:58:25.033" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T19:58:25.033" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T19:58:25.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7664" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-02T19:58:25.033" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use and maintenance of pens. You can ask after techniques, corrections, the combination with other materials, calligraphy, and more." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:19:09.510" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:19:09.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7665" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-02T20:02:30.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a multitude of tools available to the craftsperson to ease their work or enhance their skills. Using these tools often requires a specific handling, that can be improved upon by using techniques or tricks as of yet unknown to the user, or needs adjustments to prevent injuries.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This tag can be used for questions dealing with those matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/safety&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;safety&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;safety&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:20:09.177" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:20:09.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7666" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-02T20:02:30.290" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use of a certain tool. This includes asking after instructions on how to properly use it, how to improve your usage, how to prevent injuries, and more." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:20:38.487" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:20:38.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7667" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-02T20:12:42.763" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T20:12:42.763" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T20:12:42.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7668" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-02T20:12:42.763" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about the creation, reparation, or upkeep of jewellery, including the selection of materials." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:20:48.770" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:20:48.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7669" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-02T20:52:34.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing in this context can be defined as the use of (a) tool(s) to create a reproduction of a model, often on a surface. Repeatability of the process is a prerequisite for the use of this tag (as printing is defined by it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printing encompasses a wide variety of mediums.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This includes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;woodblock printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;relief printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etching&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mezzotint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aquatint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lithography&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hectography&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;serigraphy or silkscreen printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inkjet printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;embossing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;laser printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;xerography&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3d printing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;et cetera.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:20:45.740" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:20:45.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7670" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-02T20:52:34.677" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use, selection, or maintenance of printing and prints as a medium, encompassing the use of traditional as well as modern printing techniques. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:19:13.240" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:19:13.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7671" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-02T21:26:56.073" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T21:26:56.073" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T21:26:56.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7672" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-02T21:26:56.073" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-11-02T21:26:56.073" LastActivityDate="2019-11-02T21:26:56.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7673" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2019-11-02T21:30:56.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are asking about how to work with ink, these tags may help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drawing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drawing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drawing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are asking about the tools to apply ink:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pens&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pens&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/markers&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;markers&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;markers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:34:25.250" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:34:25.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7674" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2019-11-02T21:30:56.143" Score="0" Body="A pigment-containing liquid that is applied to a surface with pen, brush, or quill. Use this tag for general questions about ink as a substance, or selecting an appropriate ink for a project. See tag wiki for related tags." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-11-17T20:34:25.250" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T20:34:25.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6436" CreationDate="2019-11-03T18:15:43.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, in restoration craquelure will often be 'fixed' by concealing it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After applying a layer of varnish to facilitate the removal of retouches like these, &lt;strong&gt;the cracks will simply be painted over with corresponding colours&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is usually done with older paintings, that no longer heavily react to both inherent and external factors, but even if the craquelure shows up again, using this procedure the retouches can be removed and the process repeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-11-03T18:15:43.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2019-11-04T16:51:58.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're printing, why not print the aged effect as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print it as close to the margins as possible - your printer may even do borderless, but if not you need to crop (physically) to the aged bit.  This doesn't have to be perfect; in fact it may be better done rather roughly, depending on just how old and weathered you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do tea- or coffee-stain your paper, you need to dry it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; well before printing, and get it really flat (e.g. iron it). This may make that an option after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2021-03-24T11:41:53.087" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T11:41:53.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7792" CreationDate="2019-11-04T18:28:09.790" Score="3" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;In paintings, you often see people pointing at things. This is sometimes the painter's way of attracting the audience's attention to whatever is being pointed at. Is there a name for this way of guiding attention to objects in a painting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8565" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-12-08T20:18:02.073" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T16:27:47.040" Title="The term for someone pointing at an object to attract attention to the object" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7979" CreationDate="2019-11-05T16:39:32.400" Score="4" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a painting in acrylic using the pencil drawing attached as reference.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is this a good idea, or is it better to start painting in the drawing to improve my skill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how would I start painting it in with acrylic paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMGSC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMGSC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7992" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T16:01:17.280" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T16:01:17.280" Title="Painting from reference - use image as base or start from scratch?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|reference|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-05T18:39:20.650" Score="5" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to make an acrylic lamp for a while - in short: engrave a piece of acrylic, and then put LED strip under it to light it up - but ran into some problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMqPd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMqPd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l93uS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l93uS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the image, when I engraved the acrylic, the colors turned out to be a bit weird: in some spaces the light &quot;doesn't fully go through/show as bright&quot;, even when placed onto a black surface - you can see it's different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea of what I am doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a Parkside engraving tool (like a Dremel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8568" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-05T22:35:57.493" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T16:23:28.387" Title="DIY acrylic lamp engraving problem" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7679" CreationDate="2019-11-05T18:51:03.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question was changed/edited after my answer below.....&#xA;&quot;I think there is no &quot;where&quot; point to start on it, each artist as his own way to paint it, there are obviously some academic rules to think on, but try to think of art like a form of freedom and expression, not strictly rules to chain your creativity. Acrilycs dry quickly so you can go over and over to make adjustments and refine your work.You could start thinking of painting dark then lightness, or inverse it, that could help a bit.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8569" LastEditorUserId="8569" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T13:48:45.220" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T13:48:45.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-05T23:05:34.843" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur typographer. Until now, I've always printed various sizes of prints, flyers, saddle stitch, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to move to small perfect bound paperbacks. However, I don't know where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of glue should I use to create these, and what tool can I use to apply it? Are there chemical risks associated with some kinds of products, or can they be used safely in a home environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because most of my work is done using printers, the glue should be compatible with common kinds of inkjet and laser printers, common paper, coated paper for printing photos, and inks (toner, dye and pigmented inks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bonus:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there machines that would make this process quickly repeatable and with good results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8567" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T19:48:06.530" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T20:15:30.033" Title="What kind of glue should I use to create a perfect bound paperback?" Tags="|adhesives|book-binding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7685" CreationDate="2019-11-06T01:27:37.913" Score="7" ViewCount="737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried hard to find a relevant stackexchange site for this question and this seemed closest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a wool winter jacket that has been stored over summer and on pulling it out of the closet I discovered what looks like, I am guessing, moth damage. See below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pDW9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no holes but it seems the “fluff” from the yarn on the herringbone has been removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to revive the wool and return the texture to the yarn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8571" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T16:05:56.420" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T10:16:38.030" Title="Reviving wool from possible moth damage" Tags="|clothing|yarn|technique-selection|wool|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7577" CreationDate="2019-11-06T04:01:50.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dear Fellow Sewist @Marium,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are so correct to be outraged at the overvalued price of those “Spool Pin Felt Pads” for sale on Amazon, that is outrageous, you could buy a whole yard of felt for that price! Which would make a couple hundred spool pads... And your’s is a good question, how necessary are they?  This is an great example of sinister marketing, an attempt at propagandizing someone who is newish to an area of expertise into believing that their “very special product” is magically necessary to your success.  Good for you for questioning The Man!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you intuitively know, is that their function is simply to provide just the right amount of friction or resistance between the spool bracket and the spool itself.  Then as you are sewing along, and slow down or stop, your spool doesn’t continue to spin, getting ahead of the amount of pull placed on the thread as you make stitches, thus letting uncontrolled thread come unwound.  This unwound loose thread could not only get tangled upon itself or caught on something, and cause a sudden bind-up, but also is not going to be under proper tension when you resume sewing, thus potentially creating poorly constructed stitches (which equates to a weak and unsightly seam).  In other words, the spool pad is there to keep the spinning action of the spool under control as the sewist starts, changes speeds, and stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any somewhat thick, non-slippery fabric you have laying around could do the job of replacing the wayward original felt pad. Felt is nice, but you could also cut a spool-sized circle with a little hole in the middle from denim, wool, synthetic fleece, or even a knit fabric, such as from a mismated sock or an old sweatshirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are spool pads absolutely necessary? I have forgotten them at times, and sewed successfully for awhile with no problems, then had a bind-up due to tangled thread and realized it all started with my spool spinning out of control.  Usually this occurs when I am sewing very fast; I sometimes sew like I sometimes drive, “too fast for road conditions”. So for me spool pads are a good thing for keeping my spools under control.  (Or maybe I should let them spin as reminders for me to slow down?  Sewing too fast is not good...)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, if you are a slow steady sewist, you may never have an out-of-control spool, and it may not therefore be “absolutely necessary”. But it is probably a healthy practice to get in the habit of... Perhaps these simple lowly spool pads control slight variations in spool spin which affect the seam quality in ways we cannot readily see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as control of the spool’s rattling noise, yes it works for that too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I should clarify that I am assuming you are asking about the pad that rests on the spool spindle on the top of your machine, rather than the bobbin which holds the bottom thread.)&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmxsu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmxsu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T04:01:50.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7683" CreationDate="2019-11-06T07:17:41.883" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick hack would be to roughen up the bare patches with an old toothbrush or the coarse side of a Velcro strip. Try to treat only the bare patches like this, and be extra careful at the edges between areas of original and damaged cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that you could restore the original properties of the cloth, but that scuffing treatment should make the bare patches less noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-03T10:16:38.030" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T10:16:38.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7680" CreationDate="2019-11-06T07:35:16.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer&lt;/strong&gt;: you are using the wrong technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer&lt;/strong&gt;: The light travels from the LED strip in straight lines through the acryllic and emerges at the top of the acryllic plate. In order to illuminate the pattern, the light beams have to be deflected into your eyes. Engraving the surface does just that: it puts tiny scratches into the surface that deflect the light beams hitting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a very uniform deflection, all the scratches have to have the same orientation. You can see that the bottom edge of the engraving is illuminated very well, while the left and right borders are almost invisible. You probably turned the acryllic sheet around while engraving the border and now the places that the tool cut horizontally deflect the light outward to you, but the places where the tool cut vertically or diagonally deflect the light into different directions, thus making it less visible to you. You can see that very well in the D of &quot;Legends&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The solution&lt;/strong&gt;: You need to engrave the whole motif with a fixed orientation of the acryllic sheet and your tool. It seems to produce the best result if the tool cuts parrallel to the bottom edge, so the handle must be perpendicular to the bottom edge. You must not turn the sheet around or hold the tool in a different angle, regardless of the orientation of the line you're currently engraving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative solution is to order a laser engraving of your motif. Acryllic sheets are known to engrave well and create the desired effect. There are lots of companies online that offer laser engraving, but it's worth comparing prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T15:46:11.703" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T15:46:11.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7692" CreationDate="2019-11-06T13:46:57.050" Score="5" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drink coffee after boiling water and mixing it in the mug. The mug stays hot for a while and then I start drinking it. I have been crocheting for a while and I thought I might as well make a coffee cozy with wool. But I am wondering if it is okay to use wool with a mug that gets so hot that I can't even hold it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the highest temperature that wool can sustain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8576" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T16:08:20.063" LastActivityDate="2021-12-15T16:08:20.063" Title="Can a wool coffee cozy sustain high temperatures?" Tags="|knitting|crocheting|yarn|fiber-crafts|wool|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7682" CreationDate="2019-11-06T13:48:54.640" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For paperback you should use dendrite(known as Dandy in Bangladesh).&#xA;It looks yellow. I am using this for papers and books for a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MIWJj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MIWJj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8576" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-11-06T18:10:37.313" LastActivityDate="2019-11-06T18:10:37.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2019-11-06T13:54:39.943" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first color that page with deep dark yellow color (Crayons or water color). Then give it a very small amount of spray of black color. That should give it a nice old look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8576" LastEditorUserId="8576" LastEditDate="2019-11-08T18:11:33.233" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T18:11:33.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7682" CreationDate="2019-11-07T00:18:40.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are machines for doing perfect binding on a small scale.  They start in roughly the $50-$100 price range, and go up from there.  They're generally &quot;thermal&quot; (they heat a strip of hot melt glue in the binding).  If you search &quot;thermal binder&quot;, you'll find a bunch of options.  Here's a random, low-cost example from Amazon just as an illustration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyFuc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyFuc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07V1LCPY6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the large companies that make binding equipment and supplies, like Fellowes and GBC, offer versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general way they work is you use a cover that has a glue strip in it.  You wrap the cover around the pages and stick the assembly in an upright guide over a heating element.  The machine melts the adhesive, then you stick the book in a cooling stand.  The whole process takes a few minutes per book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy premade covers that have an opaque back and transparent front, so your own cover art shows through.  They also sell glue strips that you can stick in your own cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used similar machines that were more &quot;commercial grade&quot;.  The process is simple, fast, and clean, and the results look very professional.  They work with any type of paper and don't affect the printing (the heat is applied only to the edge).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mess up, or need to remove or replace a page, you can usually just put the book back in the machine, remelt the glue, and swap out the page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T00:27:21.987" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T00:27:21.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2019-11-07T00:42:46.323" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to being extremely insulative, wool is ideal for something like a coffee cozy because it is stable in the presence of a fairly high degree of applied heat, it is un-meltable, and it has a very high combustion point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a practical example of wool’s ability to withstand heat, when pressing wool, the recommended iron setting is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thespruce.com/select-correct-ironing-temperature-for-fabrics-2146186&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;148 °C (300 °F)&lt;/a&gt;, which is well above the boiling point of water, which is 100 °C (212 °F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measurements determining flame retardance show that wool has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fabrica.com/files/Wools/Provides%20Protection.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;an “ignition temperature” of 570-600°C (1058-1112°F), and does not melt at any temperature&lt;/a&gt;. (See table below.) This is very favorable in comparison to other fibers, for any application near a non-flame heat source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So enjoy your coffee cozy with peace of mind!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/niTgs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/niTgs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.fabrica.com/files/Wools/Provides%20Protection.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T00:42:46.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-07T01:28:57.907" Score="3" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a notebook a long time ago that was a dotted grid on each page, but the individual dots were embossed, so I could feel the texture of the dots. I used it for a lot of sketches, and I have a few more projects in mind, but I have no idea where to buy one. Has anyone else seen a notebook like this or used one before / does this type of paper have an official name / where can I buy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried looking at local crafts stores and online, but I'm having trouble finding it. Everything I've seen is just simple dotted grid paper, but none of the dots are embossed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8578" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T04:26:46.350" Title="Trying to find specific embossed grid paper" Tags="|material-selection|paper|material-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7693" CreationDate="2019-11-07T04:19:21.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen paper with such an embossed grid, but you can use regular paper over a plastic grid that does that.  They're typically called something like a &quot;freehand drawing grid&quot;.  There are several brands, like &quot;FreeHand Designer&quot; and &quot;Accu-Line Grid&quot;.  You put it under the paper.  The surface has tiny pyramid-shaped bumps that keep your pencil going in a straight line.  This is what the surface looks like magnified:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEInH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bEInH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find them on Amazon, as well as other places.  Here are a couple of links to get you started: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00XLPWHDE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FreeHand Designer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07XKBPZ7C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AccuLine Grid&lt;/a&gt;.  They're available in various sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-11-11T00:15:07.320" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T00:15:07.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7604" CreationDate="2019-11-07T11:27:46.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pointed shape you seek could be achieved in many ways, as with all things knitted.  Three possible strategies that come to mind are short rows; knitting back and forth with symmetrical edge decreases; and a scalloped edging pattern with symmetrical increases and decreases to form the pointed shape. I am going to suggest the latter, in which the shaping of the point is achieved whilst continuing to knit in the round. This will allow for a continuous bind off, all the way around, which offers a prettier finish than would be possible if you bind off the palm side separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mocked up this example pattern to confirm it would work; it is a modification of a scalloped edging stitch pattern. You will need to mock this up in your specific yarn, needles and gauge, to experiment with how many stitches and rows will provide the depth and width of pointiness you want. This can be modified by the frequency with which the increase/decrease sequence is performed: if performed on every other row, the steepness of the point’s angle will be shallower than if performed on every row.  Also keep in mind that the drama of the point on the back of the mitt can be increased with thorough blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concepts of shaping knitted pieces can sometimes seem mysterious, but in this case can be explained as follows: to change what would have been a set of straight stockinette rows into a “mountain” or “uplifted” point shape (a scallop), the direction that the stitches lie must be changed from a vertical aspect, to stitches which symmetrically angle outward from a central imaginary line. To achieve this, mirrored increases must be placed on each side of the line.  In order to keep the stitch count the same (which creates a tube of consistent diameter, which does not flare out toward the bind-off edge) there must be one decrease for every increase.  There can be no decreases next to the middle line, or a valley would be formed instead of a mountain. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9WBf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9WBf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mirrored increases and decreases are used, which here in my sample are unfortunately not well-represented, as I inadvertently transposed k2tog and ssk on the first few rows; my apologies...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4iiC7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4iiC7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this mock-up does show nicely though is how uniform the bind-off is all the way around.  You will want to begin the bind-off on the palm side so that that little transition where the bind-off is completed is not highly visible on the back of the hand...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOOs4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOOs4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This little cuff is only about 12 rows, with the increase/decrease sequence performed on 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th and 11th rows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you are interested, here are links to some very good tutorials on how to perform the mirrored increases and decreases in the pattern: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.allfreeknitting.com/Knitting-Tutorials/Knitting-Increases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tutorials on increases.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.allfreeknitting.com/Knitting-Tutorials/Knitting-Decreases&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tutorials on  decreases.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the example pattern, to get you started.  This can certainly be provided in written form, if reading charts is not your preferred format.  I hope this helps!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQaWi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQaWi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-11-07T12:36:21.623" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T12:36:21.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7679" CreationDate="2019-11-07T21:38:15.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would personally paint it separately from the original drawing, for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I find that if I paint over pencil using acrylics, either the pencil lines become completely obscured by the paint such that I can no longer see fine details (such as shading), or for thinner/lighter colored paints (such as yellow), the graphite mixes in with the paint and muddles it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plus, you may want to paint on a surface that is more suitable for painting on than drawing paper, such as heavier-weight paper (mixed media or watercolor paper), canvas board, canvas, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This would also allow you to keep your reference image separate from the painting, in case you change your mind with how you decide to paint the image.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would recommend doing is to &lt;em&gt;very lightly&lt;/em&gt; draw just the general outlines of the image onto another paper/canvas/board for painting. If you have a kneaded eraser, it would work really well for lifting some of the excess graphite so that it leaves just the slightest trace of the line behind. (If not, use a good eraser to very gently remove some of the graphite, without smudging.) Then begin painting in the medium shades, then shadows, small details, and highlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T21:38:15.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2070" CreationDate="2019-11-08T15:54:43.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looked at a few videos, a dude was using apple cider vinegar.  Same bottle as yours, wet à Scottie with plain white vinegar, put it in a ziplock overnight and wipe off the paint.  No razor blade, no scratching...just vinegar on a Scott towel (thouroughly damp).  Might be fine after 3-4 hours dunno... I used the same Scottie for 2 bottles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8585" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T15:54:43.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7678" CreationDate="2019-11-08T17:41:53.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could consider this an example of &lt;strong&gt;emphasis&lt;/strong&gt; which generally means, in art terms, an element of the composition that draws the viewer's eye to a desired focal point in the work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T16:27:47.040" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T16:27:47.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2019-11-08T20:05:35.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Bond&quot; paper is usually best for markers, it has a smooth flat surface and is usually thick enough to prevent too much bleed through. If fact there are specifically made papers for magic markers called &quot;Marker Bond&quot;, &quot;Marker Layout&quot; or just &quot;Marker Paper&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With markers the main issue you will face is bleed, where the ink soaks in and expands in the paper. Bonds and Marker papers are made in a way that minimizes this. Also markers do not gain any benefit from roughness or tooth in a paper, so avoid papers with a lot of texture, like charcoal paper, watercolor paper, or even a lot of sketch papers (where bleed will be an issue anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T20:05:35.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2019-11-09T02:46:45.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;May be you should try smoking it with a candle. It might help i am not sure.&#xA;It can be done in many ways , smoking means as simple as showing the paper on top of the flame. Its better to fix it to a wooden frame or cardboard and then showing it upon a flame so as to prevent burning . Showing the paper alone might work but may burn the paper and also takes time since we should take care not to burn it.&#xA;After smoking the paper we can smudge it with finger or cotton. &#xA;I am uploading a picture here of a paper piece i smoked right now using a candle without smudging.(only a small portion is smoked).&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNd07.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8587" LastEditorUserId="8587" LastEditDate="2019-11-09T11:10:33.953" LastActivityDate="2019-11-09T11:10:33.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2019-11-10T07:21:22.653" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyper&lt;em&gt;minimalism&lt;/em&gt;, hyperconceptual...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8591" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-10T11:57:27.780" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T11:57:27.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7693" CreationDate="2019-11-10T21:40:08.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Bazzill Dotted Swiss&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0zDk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0zDk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Available at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.michaels.com/8.5x11-bazzill-basics-dotted-swiss-cardstock-salt-white/D066779S.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;michaels.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bazzill-Basics-Paper-Dotted-sheets/dp/B009CFV99U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T21:40:08.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7693" CreationDate="2019-11-12T00:15:58.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being drawn to the crafty aspects of Bullet Journaling, I find your question very interesting and have put a lot of thought and online research into this topic, both for my own curiosity as well as to hopefully help you in your search.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, there are three types of basic grids which will be discussed here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vertical-horizontal grid-of-squares pattern, which I will call the Checkerboard Grid, for lack of finding a single common term for it, is the configuration of Bullet Journal dot grids. The perfectly spaced lines and perfect right angles assist the journaler in creating evenly spaced, straight vertical and horizontal lines for layout design.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://mylifeinabullet.com/leuchtturm1917-vs-nuuna/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Leuchtturm’s dots are 5mm apart, while NUUNA’s are 3.5mm)&lt;/a&gt;.  The remainder of my answer is built on the assumption that this is the type of embossed-dot-grid ‘notebook paper’ you are referring to in your question; forgive me please if this assumption is in error!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://lovebugstudios.com/how-to-die-cut-square-in-a-square-square-on-point-blocks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The “Square On Point” Grid (to borrow the quilters’ term) is exactly like the Checkerboard Grid, but with diagonally (45°) rotated squares.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://print-graph-paper.com/details/isometric&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Isometric Grids, which have lines representing all three dimensions (length, width, and height) with no right angles involved, are typically used for drawing three-dimensional objects, making them useful for architects.&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my searching, I did find some dot-embossed full-page and note card size card stock (exactly like what @Danielillo posted above), all but one of which feature Isometric Grids. There was one lone dot-embossed cardstock with a Square On Point Grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pin.it/izqlziwao6wpxh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;As I was searching, I loosely collected these examples that I found into this Pinterest Board for your perusal.&lt;/a&gt;    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as far as my modest search skills took me, I found no sketching-worthy papers featuring embossed dots in a grid of any sort, and none of the dot-embossed cardstock products I found feature the Checkerboard Grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, I am thinking you may ultimately need to consider making your own embossed dot grid paper.  You did not mention exactly how you use such a specific paper in your sketching projects (I am super curious, are you willing to share?), but the main advantage of making it yourself would be the ability to customize the design for your particular purposes. Also, you can make it to your standards, on any sort of paper among the entire range of paper qualities, from the finest handmade artisan paper available, to readily available printer paper or card stock, to repurposed newsprint or other scrap paper.  Of course, you would need to experiment to determine the type of paper that most successfully forms the quality of embossed dot you seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first challenge would be finding a stencil of the desired design and dimensions.  This could be of plastic (especially mylar) or metal, but whatever the material, it would need to be of a proper thickness to elevate the design on the paper an adequate amount; among the references I reviewed, the usual thickness for an embossing stencil seems to be 7mil to 7.5mil.  There are thousands of stencils available online, for many areas of production, including scrapbooking, cake decorating, tee shirt graphics, fabric design, sign and vinyl cling production, and embroidery (including sashiko, which often uses a dot grid very similar to a Bujo dot grid), to name a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find a few dot grid stencils which appear to be pretty close to the design of a Bujo dot grid.  I also pinned these on the above mentioned Pinterest Board, for your ease in viewing the range of what is available.  Some are specifically for Bullet Journaling / Bujo,  but those tend to be quite small (such as 3 to 4 inches square), so I am not sure how helpful they would be. Dots in a Checkerboard Grid are not widely found, but dots in an Isometric Grid seem to be a common design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did stumble upon an Etsy vendor who offers custom-made stencils, up to 8” square, which is a great resource that could make the rest of this answer moot: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/584925906/personalized-stencilcustom-bullet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.etsy.com/listing/584925906/personalized-stencilcustom-bullet&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of the above sources pan out, there are ways to create your own bespoke stencils, which may or may not interest you depending on how far down the DIY rabbit hole you are willing to fall...  &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/g1KNRfDxrFc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can do this by simply printing out a dot grid, then transferring the design to a piece of 7mil mylar and cutting the dots out with an exacto knife, or punch tool.&lt;/a&gt;     &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/fp3qzLHtMUY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another technique uses a heat cutting tool.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with free-hand cutting is of course a relative lack of accuracy, unless you are a very gifted craftsperson. For a more professional and accurate result,  which I think would be important for a dot grid, you could also consider a home-use stencil cutting (or “die cut”) machine.  I continue this line of reasoning below...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second challenge would be learning how to actually use the stencil to create embossed dots on your chosen paper. The most direct and cost-effective way is by using a hand-held tool called a “stylus”, a technique known as “dry embossing”.  For your purposes I am pretty sure that “dry embossing”, which simply pushes the paper into the stencil to create a raised design, is the method you would be looking for.  (The other method  of hand-embossing paper is called “heat embossing”, which involves stamping a pattern onto the paper with a rubber stamp and ink, sprinkling a meltable powder onto the still-wet ink, knocking or brushing off any powder that does not stick, then melting the remaining powder with a heat gun, leaving a raised impression of the stamped design.  I would be surprised if this would function well in combination with sketching, but one never knows...!)  &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/sm_kfpoAiE0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a good YouTube demonstration of the Dry Embossing method done by hand with a stylus.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this modern world, hand-crafted dry embossing with a stylus is considered an ancient skill.  Third Millenium Home Crafters commonly have electronic devices which cut stencils and emboss paper from computer-based designs, far more neatly, accurately and quickly than can typically be accomplished by hand.  Now this answer is veering uncomfortably into a whole area of crafting that I cannot claim to be an expert in - I neither own nor know how to use such a machine.  But they are on the list of resources at your disposal which might solve your embossed-dot-grid-paper dillema.  So from here, I will merely point you toward some resources for further study, if you are interested. Check out these articles reviewing and rating machines that die-cut AND emboss: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vinylcuttingmachines.net/beginners-guide-to-the-best-vinyl-cutting-machines/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://vinylcuttingmachines.net/beginners-guide-to-the-best-vinyl-cutting-machines/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://10bestranked.com/embossing-die-cutting-machines/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://10bestranked.com/embossing-die-cutting-machines/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.maryjanesandgaloshes.com/best-embossing-machine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.maryjanesandgaloshes.com/best-embossing-machine/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is always the case with Arts and Crafts questions, there are many possible paths to the desired outcome...  It’s a long answer, but you may discover that the funnest and only resource for Embossed BuJo-Style Dot Grid Notebook Paper is YOURSELF!  I hope this is helpful...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T04:26:46.350" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T04:26:46.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-12T04:42:01.267" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;(The picture bellow is from a costume on-line shopping[ &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.buycostumes.com/products/mens-steampunk-gentleman-costume&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.buycostumes.com/products/mens-steampunk-gentleman-costume&lt;/a&gt; ]. I don't want the exactly same thing, but it's close enough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what fabric to use for this steampunk outfit (suit, trousers and spat). I want this to be from a nice quality fabric. First I thought about wool, but it is expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want it to be a costume, I really would like to have the &quot;feeling&quot; that it is legit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d2VJ2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d2VJ2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8595" LastEditorUserId="8595" LastEditDate="2019-11-16T03:41:34.673" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T03:41:34.673" Title="What fabric can I use for these clothes?" Tags="|fabric|costume-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7706" CreationDate="2019-11-12T08:19:29.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not really going to address your question, but the underlying problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that costumes usually look like costumes and not like &quot;legit&quot; outfits, is because they are produced for temporary use: their cheap materials (and often cheap manufacture) keep prices at a minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can indeed improve on the fabric, but, combined with the working hours you'll have to put in it, you will have to see if this option is preferable to buying a higher quality costume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice, depending on where you live, would be to &lt;strong&gt;visit a couple of thrift stores&lt;/strong&gt;. Find pants, a waistcoat, a hat, a long coat, and any additional accessoires (since you're assembling your own outfit, you might even be able to wear parts of that outfit in daily life, making the investments even more worthwhile).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Whatever you still need you can now make from higher quality fabric, since you'll need less. You might even be able to find proper types of textile in those very same stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a last tip: I believe you can get convincingly good-looking steampunk glasses and pocket watches for relatively low prices online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T08:19:29.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7706" CreationDate="2019-11-12T14:17:32.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;costume&quot; looks like a cheap costume because it is made with cheap, unsuitable materials using quick assembly techniques with minimal finishing; if you want it to look &quot;legit,&quot; you have to approach it as actual apparel, not as a &quot;costume,&quot; and you'll have to spend some money on the materials, as well as time on the construction. &quot;Cheap&quot; fabrics will not get you the look you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, many &quot;costume&quot; patterns are geared toward this &quot;cheap&quot; approach; you'll likely need to make modifications or enhancements to whatever pattern you may choose, or to find a higher-end pattern (which will be more expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a reason &quot;cosplay&quot; is considered an expensive hobby; even a simple garment can take many hours and a great deal of expense. (As a personal example, the belt for one of my own costumes cost $80 in raw materials.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For a steampunk-style costume, consideration should be made toward the time period being evoked by the style&lt;/strong&gt;; avoid lightweight and synthetic fabrics. &lt;strong&gt;You'll want 100% cottons&lt;/strong&gt; (denims and other bottomweights for outer garments), &lt;strong&gt;wools, linens&lt;/strong&gt; (good for shirts), &lt;strong&gt;and leather/suede.&lt;/strong&gt; Note that synthetic suedes are fine if you like that look and want to avoid the cost or morality of real suede; synthetic leather is not a good substitute for real leather in belts and similar garments. A decent quality cotton twill can start at around $10/yd, linen often runs $12-20/yd, leather is generally priced by the size of the piece (or hide) and takes considerable extra effort to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some stores will offer sales or coupons; this will be your best bet to save money on your materials (and be sure to get a feel for the average sale vs the average coupon; at my local shop, linen never goes on sale for a better price than I can get with a coupon, but flannel almost always goes cheaper than the coupon price). Sign up for any emails, mailers, or apps your local stores have and comparison shop so you can save some money and use the savings to help yourself get higher quality materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultimately, what you get out of the project will be determined by what you put into it. If you use cheap materials and cheap construction techniques, your end result will look cheap. The only way to get the &quot;feeling that it is legit&quot; is to make it legit.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-11-13T14:29:24.620" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T14:29:24.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7710" CreationDate="2019-11-12T14:51:11.717" Score="2" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a trained artist.My paint brushes are getting damage easily after finishing one or two creations.Below I have added the images of the brush that I am using now.I do not know what are best types of paint brushes that I can use corresponding to acrylic color that I am using or the colors that are suitable to the paint brush that I am using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlnCi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlnCi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I am using these brushes.Also I am mainly using Camel Fabric acrylic colors.This one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1wXM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1wXM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8550" LastEditorDisplayName="user8550" LastEditDate="2019-11-26T11:34:18.093" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T02:32:47.380" Title="How can I keep my paint brushes long lasting?" Tags="|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7709" CreationDate="2019-11-13T10:29:24.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can I keep my paint brushes long lasting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Awaiting more specific information, I can already tell it's best to &lt;strong&gt;rinse your brushes directly after every use&lt;/strong&gt;. Whether it's oil or acrylic you're working with, the brushes can easily be cleaned with a little soap and water. I use general hand soap bars for this - nothing fancy: don't be persuaded by the overpriced &quot;artist soap&quot; (but more on that later on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leave my brushes in a jar with soapy water at all times. I fixed a spring on top of the jar to hold the brushes, so that the bristles don't get squished as they dry, preventing deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adapt the spring from a spring holder like the one here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDjz8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDjz8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spring paint brush hanger&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a jar instead of a tin allows for more soapwater, slower evaporation, and fewer refills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When the paint has dried&lt;/strong&gt; up already, I usually either &lt;strong&gt;soften it up again&lt;/strong&gt; in that same jar - but you have to wait for days if not weeks (depending on the size of your brush) - or use a small hammer to &lt;strong&gt;hammer the paint out&lt;/strong&gt; (this I only really do with acrylic paint). This is bad practice for high-quality brushes, but with those you wouldn't let it come this far in the first place :) And, nevertheless, a usable bad-quality brush is still better than an unusable high-quality one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are best types of paint brushes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a different question altogether, but, in the light of your main question, the &lt;strong&gt;brushes with the greatest longevity are usually those with plastic (nylon, polyester) bristles&lt;/strong&gt;, as they are less easily damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural hairs usually paint better (depending on the paint you work with, your style, the size, etc., and high-quality acrylic bristles are improving), but they are more susceptible to degradation, as organic fibers tend to be, so you have to make sure you take good care of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're starting out with painting, I'd suggest using hog hair bristles for oils and synthetic brushes for acrylic paint. They are both cheap and relatively resilient, and abusing or losing them while getting used to the painting process won't be the proverbial end of the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-11-13T10:29:24.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-13T16:20:18.960" Score="2" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ledger_stones_in_St._John%27s_Co-Cathedral&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tomb-full&lt;/a&gt; marble floor of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_John%27s_Co-Cathedral&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;St John's Co-Cathedral&lt;/a&gt; in Malta is breathtaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I create something similar to a marble floor or floor fresco, and protect it in a large room that will be continually walked through? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend for the floor to have a giant figurative painting, something akin to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magi_Chapel#The_procession&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Procession of the Magi in the Medici Chapel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do the whole floor in marble would cost a phenomenal amount. Instead, what options are there? Are there any examples of other people having done this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The floor will be walked upon daily by many people, so raw paint would not only fade, it would smudge and ruin (especially when people are coming in from the rain). Would paint and a glass layer on top to protect it work and be an option? Because glass breaks I'm hoping there's another way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I want to know all options that I have. If imitating marble is an option, that's great, but I want to know all feasible options. I can't see examples of where other floor murals exist that will be walked upon, so I don't know what options I have, and - to make this project a reality - I must present a range of options to the patron, in terms of feasibility and cost (including maintenance).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE: I'm looking for a condensed overview of different methods, each of which I can look into hereafter individually.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6227" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-16T12:19:35.840" LastActivityDate="2020-03-06T11:37:41.123" Title="What are alternatives to creating a marble floor?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3313" CreationDate="2019-11-14T03:44:11.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We made a bunch of homemade hot sauce from ghost peppers and I made a label for it.  I scanned the label and printed it on regular printer paper and cut it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I glued it to the bottle with good 'ole Tacky Glue.  Works really well.  I just used a little spatula and spread the glue on nice and thin.  No bumps, and it sticks really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if the bottle gets too wet, the paper dissolves, but that's the paper's fault, not the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastActivityDate="2019-11-14T03:44:11.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7682" CreationDate="2019-11-14T03:49:47.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of bookbinding, and I always use good 'ole Tacky Glue for everything.  It dries flexible and clear and is pretty strong.  You can get it cheap at Hobby Lobby.  I've used this glue on many a book and never had any regrets at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastEditorUserId="8602" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T20:15:30.033" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T20:15:30.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7712" CreationDate="2019-11-14T05:52:02.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, you want to have a beautiful floor which can be walked on, without degrading its beauty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 2 issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Creating the beautiful floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can paint it, use marbles, or anything else you desire. 2D or 3D. Let your imagination go wild.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Protecting the newly made floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply a thick layer of an epoxy resin. I am not experienced with this, but I saw many videos on the Internet of people doing this. If the epoxy gets degraded, you again have options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polish the epoxy, if it is still thick enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply a new layer of epoxy. Ideally, you polish the old surface first for the best results, so do not wait too long before doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be successful using a large, high quality poster for the floor, and cover it with the epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preparing the base floor for coverage is the subject of another question, as well as details on how to use the different materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-06T11:37:41.123" LastActivityDate="2020-03-06T11:37:41.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-15T05:26:59.670" Score="2" ViewCount="19474" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are &lt;strong&gt;the distinctive features in the face of an Indian and Caucasian teenage girl&lt;/strong&gt; which makes them distinct from each other?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm a beginner artist struggling to draw two distinct adult girl characters from imagination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things that I've learned so far are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The skin tone and color of hairs will be the major factor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nose will be narrow in Caucasian face and little wider in Indian type. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bottom eyelid will be more prominent in Indian type than the other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The eyes will be little sunken in Caucasian type.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if any other difference in details like cheek bone, mouth, chin etc. would help me in drawing the character accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3195" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T12:08:04.367" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T12:08:04.367" Title="What are distinct facial features that can be considered while drawing an Indian and Caucasian teenage girl?" Tags="|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6448" CreationDate="2019-11-17T06:02:41.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems, from casting about online, that the use of wool stuffing for refurbishing furniture cushions is somewhat outmoded, even for a restoration project such as yours where authenticity is desired. Other than several blogs mentioning wool when discussing the pros and cons of various cushion materials, especially those which are emphasizing natural furniture materials for health and green reasons, there is not much expertise being shared online on this topic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did however stumble upon this most wonderful site, which just might be the ultimate source for your specific question on quantity estimate: &lt;a href=&quot;https://homeofwool.com/shop/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Home of Wool&lt;/a&gt;.  They offer wool &lt;a href=&quot;https://homeofwool.com/shop/oeko-tex-certified-wool-stuffing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stuffing&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://homeofwool.com/shop/wool-batting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;batting&lt;/a&gt;, as well as &lt;a href=&quot;https://homeofwool.com/category/completed-projects/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;custom wool cushions and mattresses&lt;/a&gt;, not to mention their shop bursting with cool stuff made of wool and other natural fibers.  I am certain these friendly people would very happily assist you on your quantity question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.foamorder.com/pillows/pillow-stuffing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Foam Order&lt;/a&gt; is another source for organic wool batting, including one manufactured with cotton backing.  (They do not offer wool stuffing, though. They do discuss how to fold wool batting for the stuffing of a pillow, however, which sounds intriguing...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I will just throw in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://homeguides.sfgate.com/stuff-cushions-wool-58534.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;little tutorial&lt;/a&gt; on how to stuff a cushion with wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course as you pointed out, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.joann.com/search?q=wool%20batting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wool battings available at Joann&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy reupholstering!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T06:02:41.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7532" CreationDate="2019-11-17T10:39:22.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends upon several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the features of the dress you are altering, such as, sleeveless vs sleeved, types of sleeves if present, gathered vs fitted waist, presence of side seam fasteners or pockets, etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the fabric the dress is made of&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much you are altering the dress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how persnickety you yourself are about things like seam finishes and drape of the finished product (as noted by @SueC and @Stefan in the comments above)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first youtube video you site, the front and back pieces of the bodice and skirt are each one continuous piece of fabric, so reducing the circumferences of the body and sleeves a small amount by simply stitching along the side seams and underarm seams (what my Mom calls “taking in the seams”) would probably work “well enough”. However, Kurtis are made of woven fabric, and the sleeves are quite fitted, making alterations of anything more than a small amount potentially unforgiving; one would need to proceed with caution, the explanation of which will take up most of the rest of this answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, this scenario could possibly apply to your alteration of a dress with a gathered skirt, from the standpoint of re-fitting the basically-tubular shapes of bodice and skirt in a relatively straightforward manner. That is, and here’s the tricky part, “unless” your dress has sleeves, is made of a woven fabric, and / or there will be a large amount of fabric left in the new seam allowance, in which cases the ability of the shoulder seam to lay nicely and articulate normally could be hindered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because the armscye is one of the most complex places to alter on a torso garment (dress, shirt, jacket...), as both the size and shape of the wearer, and motions of the arm and shoulder in actions such as reaching forward or overhead, are involved.  I would consider this an advanced skill in the alteration realm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly this depends on the dress you are altering.  If it is sleeveless, and / or made of a knit fabric, you will possibly have less of an issue altering at the armscye.  But even on a sleeveless dress, it is easy for an armscye to become too small or too gaping during the alteration process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second and third videos you site demonstrate cutting the too-large dresses apart first at the waist, then at the side seams, then reassembling them to a smaller size. In the second video, the dress has to be trimmed down extensively at the sides because the original dress had pleats, as well as being 10 sizes too large. A sheath dress such as her finished product is meant to fit just right, conforming to the figure, so cutting away a great amount of material is necessary, which obviously leaves raw edges for seaming... She wisely uses a pencil skirt that she likes the fit of as a pattern for cutting away the sides of the skirt, which also allows her to confirm that the amount she takes off of the side seams of the bodice is correct, since the two circumferences apparently match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lady who alters down a thrift shop dress basically cuts all the pieces apart, which is somewhat like starting from where you would when cutting out a pattern on new fabric. The difference being that from there, she needs a method to know how much to take in, and where, which she doesn’t explain. She had to either use her own measurements, taking positive ease into consideration, or she used a dress she likes the fit of as a pattern, or she used an actual sewing pattern. That dress is of knit fabric, so I assume she is using a serger or a stretchy stitch on a regular sewing machine; both methods would lend a lot of forgiveness to the fit, if the reduction method she uses is less than perfect. Also note, it is a sleeveless dress, which obviates most of the potential complications of fitting the articulation of the shoulder joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the fourth video seems to express your question most directly. Wouldn’t she have saved time and effort by merely “taking in the seams”? Possibly yes, but in my experience, I don’t think so.  Notice that at 3:09, she trims the armscye.  She feels this is necessary as evidenced by her statement there that she determined how much to trim “from the shoulder seam” (while the cut she makes actually affects both the armscye and shoulder seams) by measuring “across from one shoulder to another”.  She did shorten the length of the shoulder seam, which makes it a smaller size, BUT although she states that this action has not changed the size of the armhole, it actually has: it is now larger and deeper, which counterintuitively makes it less articulating. This website, &lt;a href=&quot;https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/the-armscye-height-secret-a-crucial-detail/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Parisian Gentleman”&lt;/a&gt;, explains this phenomenon well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...if the armscye fits close to the armpit, then movement of the arms will not be restricted and the front of the jacket will not move when your arms move. Conversely, an armscye positioned too low, leaving too much space between the armpit and the bottom of the armscye will cause a small sartorial catastrophe which includes discomfort, strain on the mid part of the jacket when the arms move and riding up of the back of the jacket when seated at a table with arms forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made this mistake myself, and believe me, it is very uncomfortable, you feel like your upper arms are tied to your torso!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So again, could you take your dress and merely “take in the seams”? Very possibly, &lt;em&gt;depending&lt;/em&gt; upon these many factors, chief among which is that pesky armscye. The gal in the last video certainly could have made all of her changes, except the alteration of the armscye, by merely “taking in the seams”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One simple strategy to test your theory that cutting apart the seams doesn’t always seem necessary, would be to &lt;em&gt;baste&lt;/em&gt; the seams you intend to take in, about 1/16th inch &lt;em&gt;outside of&lt;/em&gt; (that is, closer to the edge from) where you want the seams to go. (This way the basting can be easily removed later, as it will not be sewn over, OR you could perhaps choose to leave it in...) When you try the basting-altered garment on, move your arms forward and upward, in reaching motions, to test the armscye fit. One caveat: the seam allowance in the armscye area might be pulling things tightly even though the seam is placed correctly, in which case some very strategic and careful notch placement would be in order, which might also require you to finish that section of the seam...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last “depends upon” factor to mention is, your personal standards and preferences for finishing seams. In some situations this is strictly personal preference, but sometimes the way a seam is finished does affect the outcome of the garment so strongly that the finished garment is either the best thing you ever wore, or it is never worn again after trying it on. This is because things like waving or puckers in the seam allowance, or, pulling or twisting of the garment around constricted areas like the waist or arms, can occur to a surprisingly severe degree, simply due to an improperly finished seam. It has to do with the behavior of fabric that is stitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understanding this personality quirk, which is different among each of the fabrics you will sew with, comes with study and experience. The best place to start is what you are doing: follow your instincts and try things. It sounds like you are experimenting with some interesting seam finishes (although I have never heard of a “weft seam”, except with hand-woven fabrics?) There are many ways to any given result in sewing, and no single right way to do anything. Go forth and try what your mind is suggesting, and see how it works out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have talked about a couple of important and specific sewing skill sets, here are some links for further study:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fitting Armscyes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://fashion-incubator.com/how-to-re-shape-armholes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“How to Re-Shape Armholes}, at Fashion Incubator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thedailysew.com/2016/01/how-to-adjust-the-bodice-and-sleeve-pattern-when-armholes-are-too-large/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“How to Adjust the Bodice and Sleeve Pattern When Armholes are Too Large”, at The Daily Sew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sempstress.org/measurement/measuring-the-armscye-frontback-armscye/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Armscye, Front &amp;amp; Back”, at Sempstress&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mybluprint.com/article/armhole-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Armhole Adjustments You Might Never Have Considered”, at Bluprint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/02/to-get-the-right-armhole-fit-the-bodice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“To Get The Right Armhole, Fit The Bodice”, at Threads Magazine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How Seam Finishes May Affect The Finished Garment:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sewingprofessionals.com/resources/media/asdp/documents/2019-asdp-standards-of-quality.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Standards of Quality”, at Sewing Professionals&lt;/a&gt;: This excellent article describes standards for Seam Finishes on page 3:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SEAM FINISHES - A seam finish is any technique that is used to make a seam neat, to prevent the seam allowance edges from raveling and/or fraying, to prevent seam allowances from rolling, to prevent stretching and rippling in some seam allowances, and to give the inside of the garment a more pleasing appearance. Examples of seam finishes are pinked, overcast, Hong Kong, turned and stitched, and serged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The seam finish is appropriate to the garment fabric, the garment design, the intended use of the garment, its quality, and garment care.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The finish is applied securely so that it remains in place during normal wear and care.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The finish does not add bulk to the seam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The selected finish prevents the fabric from raveling, rolling, or&#xA;stretching and contributes to the overall neatness of the garment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The finishes’ binding or thread color is appropriate to the fashion fabric, unless used for decorative purposes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://emilyhallman.com/2018/11/17/pretty-on-the-inside/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Pretty on the Inside”, at Emily Hallman Designs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://weallsew.com/seam-finishes-3-ways/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Seam Finishes 3 Ways”, at We All Sew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://doitbetteryourself.club/blog/the-best-techniques-to-finish-your-raw-seams/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“The Best Techniques to Finish Your Raw Seams”, at DIBY Club&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/fcs2/fcs2304/fcs2304.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Seam Finishes”, at The University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food and Environment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2388&amp;amp;context=extensionhist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Seam Finishes”, at The University of Nebraska Extension&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.coats.com/en/Information-Hub/Finding-the-Best-Seam-Type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;“Seam Types, Bulletin 17”, at Coats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="10015" LastEditDate="2021-10-12T07:17:04.360" LastActivityDate="2021-10-12T07:17:04.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2576" CreationDate="2019-11-17T12:00:10.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Adding here The Answer that the OP identified in Comments as The Ultimate Solution to her dilemma...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the link provided by OP @Tara-Hanratty, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/5-grafting-myths-myth-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grafting Knitting, Myth 2: Grafted Ribbing Will Always Have a Half-Stitch Jog&lt;/a&gt;, here is the answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author, Joni Coniglio, explains that the half-stitch jog in grafted ribbing is not actually unavoidable, as many knitters apparently believe. Knitting direction, not merely knitting stitch choice, turns out to be the main factor in whether a half-stitch jog will appear in grafted ribbing. In some well-smithed word craft, accompanied by beautifully clear and understandable visuals, Ms. Coniglio deftly explains the very complex and nuanced behavior of top-to-top oriented grafting, which will create the dreaded half-stitch jog every time. I am not shameless enough to cut and paste her eloquent verbiage here, nor am I capable of adequately paraphrasing something so akin to brain surgery. The link will have to suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More to the point of Hanratty’s specific question, Coniglio goes on to share the happy news that top-to-bottom oriented grafting does &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; produce the half-stitch jog:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In top-to-bottom grafting, the direction of knitting on the front needle moves toward the grafted row while the direction of knitting on the back needle moves away from it. Thus, the direction of knitting continues uninterrupted from the piece on the front needle through the grafted row to the piece on the back needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51GjI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51GjI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, Hanratty may proceed to whack off the offending and unmasculine bell-shaped bottom of the project, and graft a ribbed bottom section onto it in the top-to-bottom grafting procedure outined by Coniglio, resting assured that a half-stitch jog will not appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further complex and amazing instructions are provided in the article for Picking Up a Provisional Cast On, and Written Instructions for Grafting k1, p1 Ribbing Top-to-Top and Top-to-Bottom. Links to four video tutorials on all of these topics reside at the bottom of the page.  Surely this Joni Coniglio must be The World’s Foremost Expert on Knitted Grafting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T12:00:10.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7628" CreationDate="2019-11-17T13:55:59.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Kevin, here are the online sites my husband uses to practice figure drawing from home:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nma.art/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;New Masters Academy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAZZ8kXStsAD_SJS9LWNdEQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CroquisCafe on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T13:55:59.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7722" CreationDate="2019-11-17T22:32:11.640" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the title is the most proper question that could come up in my mind, as for an example - take a look at 2014 ESC postcards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eIa2W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eIa2W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Danish flag&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHVOa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHVOa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swedish flag&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j5ySH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j5ySH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tennis racket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEmlH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEmlH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tennis racket represented by a pool and a rubber duck&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8618" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T15:34:20.510" Title="What's the name of a concept where objects take on forms out of different things?" Tags="|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7721" CreationDate="2019-11-18T01:09:47.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Optical illusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_illusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, this is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;an illusion caused by the visual system and characterized by a visual percept that arguably appears to differ from reality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first two photographs (making it '(optical) illusion photography'), this 'visual percept' is a flag. Here the 'illusion' is caused by the (careful) positioning of objects in alignment relative to the point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another term often used is for this is '&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forced_perspective&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forced perspective&lt;/a&gt;', which is a type of optical illusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though the illusion is not as monumental as the word suggests, it functions basically the same as works like this one, the &lt;em&gt;Triumph of the Name of Jesus&lt;/em&gt; by Giovanni Battista Gaulli:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AP2fw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AP2fw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Triumph of the Name of Jesus by Giovanni Battista Gaulli - from Wikipedia&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This example is another sub-category of those optical illusions, referred to as &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trompe-l%27%C5%93il&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trompe l'œil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (from French, meaning 'fooling the eye'), a term which is almost exclusively to paintings. It is often used in conjunction with architectural forced perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Our perception tricks us into seeing more than the sum of the parts (like depth, light, &amp;amp;c.).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The construction of (linear) perspective is also based on this principle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-18T15:34:20.510" LastActivityDate="2019-11-18T15:34:20.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7716" CreationDate="2019-11-19T14:09:12.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are images of the averages of faces of Caucasian and Indian women.&#xA;They are based on images of individuals of an older age than what you're looking for, but should still give a good idea of the major lineaments of women at younger ages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kn9hx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kn9hx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Comparison of female Caucasian and Indian faces&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the left is an average of young Caucasian women made using this &lt;a href=&quot;http://faceresearch.org/demos/average&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online tool&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the middle are the two pre-averaged 'portraits' of both Indian and South-Indian women.*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the far right is an average based on the middle two made in Photoshop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Impressions&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shape of the face of Caucasian women is more elongated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All facial features of Indian women are larger in relation to the size of their faces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mouths of Indian women are more plump: their lower lips especially are more pronounced, and the corners of their mouths lie deeper (and/or their cheeks are rounder).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, I'd like to suggest that in conjunction with (or instead of) this rather theoretical approach, you might want to draw live portraits of individuals. This way, you'll learn to see the individual characteristics, and keep your observations (and &lt;em&gt;artistic&lt;/em&gt; interpretation) from being pre-informed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;* &lt;a href=&quot;https://leadingpersonality.wordpress.com/2013/09/30/average-faces-of-men-and-women-around-the-world/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- These photographs are part of research conducted by Drs. Lisa DeBruine and Ben Jones at the Face Research Lab at the University of Glasgow Institute of Neuroscience and Psychology.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Rather than downsizing all images, I've enlarged the three images on the right to be of a size similar to the left most image. This might misleadingly emphasize a sharpness of the features of the Caucasian average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T14:09:12.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-19T16:22:10.330" Score="1" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to surprise my friend with a portrait painting of his image that will be glowing in the dark but don't know what paint to use. Any help please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8627" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T14:45:36.120" Title="What paint should I use to make a portrait glow in the dark?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7726" CreationDate="2019-11-19T21:04:11.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are at least three approaches, but it will be difficult to make a &quot;fine art&quot; portrait, especially that looks like one in the dark.  All glow-in-the-dark paints are limited to a small number of colors that tend to be primary or secondary  &quot;neon&quot; colors.  I don't know how well the colors blend to create other colors, but color inkjet and laser printers create most of the spectrum by placing small dots of primary colors next to each other, so that might be a fallback approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two general kinds of glow in the dark materials (aside from what's in glow sticks that glow for a short period after mixing, and materials that rely on radioactive material).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Phosphorescent materials can be &quot;charged&quot; with light energy, then they slowly release the energy as light which is visible in the dark.  The light they release is not very bright, and isn't visible for long.  The kind of light used to charge it makes a big difference.  Direct sunlight or a full-spectrum light (like a grow lamp), give the best results.  An incandescent light will give much poorer results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color of the light released isn't the color that the material appears in normal light, so colored phosphorescent paint is typically mixed with a colored pigment so that the color is similar in normal light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phosphorescent paint isn't designed for fine art, it's typically used for purposes like painting large shapes for Halloween decorations.  It would be hard to create a portrait that you could actually see in detail in the dark.  The paint tends to be pretty thin and requires a lot of coats to build up enough material for reasonable brightness and uniformity.  With pigmented colors, a lot of the phosphorescent material gets blocked by the pigment, so it glows less brightly after it dries.  You can find a range of colors like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06XHW1HR3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon link&lt;/a&gt; (no personal experience with this product, it's just an example).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fluorescent materials are excited by ultraviolet (black) light, and give off very bright, visible light, often enough to see the effect even in room light that isn't too bright.  In a dark room, the picture will glow.  You just need to illuminate the portrait with an ultraviolet bulb (and it will glow as long as the UV bulb is on).  You can find color assortments like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0083FOB54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon link&lt;/a&gt; (again, no personal experience with the product).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So two of the approaches are to use either phosphorescent paint, or fluorescent paint plus a UV bulb, and create the colors as best you can from what's available.  Of the two, the latter is likely to give you the best result.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third approach would be to create a monochrome portrait with non-colored phosphorescent paint.  You create shading by how thickly you apply the paint (number of layers; the thicker the paint the brighter it will be).  This would be analogous to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.maxzorn.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;packing tape art&lt;/a&gt;, although light and dark would be the reverse.  I'm not sure how easy it would be to discern the detail in normal light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll throw in one more idea, although I don't know if it would work.  You can buy or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RpeZfZQdIg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;make&lt;/a&gt; non-colored phosphorescent paint (just a clear vehicle plus strontium aluminate powder).  You might be able to create a normal portrait, then coat it with a thin layer of this paint.  It will add a haze on top that will mask fine detail.  But it might work to illuminate the portrait in the dark.  It wouldn't be very bright, so the portrait would need exaggerated contrast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-11-19T21:30:55.200" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T21:30:55.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7726" CreationDate="2019-11-20T14:45:36.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.teachersource.com/product/phosphorescent-vinyl-sheets/light-ultraviolet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;phosphorescent vinyl sheets&lt;/a&gt; (example link).  I've used this material under blacklights (UV lamps) to glow long term; the UV charges the phosphor as it discharges. These days you could use UV LEDs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd then need to paint on top of a (typically) slightly textured vinyl.  I haven't found a source of white material, so it would be the typical ghostly green of phosphorescent signs, and you'd be best with monochrome art.  Front-lit, even translucent red paint won't allow a huge amount of charging, but back-illumination with a blacklight might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phosphorescent white paints do exist.  You could perhaps use them under translucent paints (e.g. glass paint) with UV illumination, but I haven't tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally an artistic friend used common highlighter pens to draw on black fabric. Even as she drew it the design was invisible, so she must have had a good memory.  When taken under the blacklights the picture appeared.  The problem again is the lack of colours: the blue and purple shades are a lot less intense even under blacklights than yellow/orange/pink, and there isn't a true red. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.glow.co.uk/invisible-uv-paint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Invisible UV paint&lt;/a&gt; (as mentioned in Fixer's answer) would give you a little more control and more colours; you'd probably need to work under UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T14:45:36.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-20T17:59:23.783" Score="5" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fair amount of crocheting experience but no knitting experience whatsoever; I want to make something for my cousin’s new baby in time for Christmas, and I think a nice, simple baby blanket would make a good first knitting project. After doing research, I purchased some supplies, and I found some good knitting tutorials online—the latter of which brings me to my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, common sense dictates that a stitch called the “blanket stitch” would probably be ideal for making a blanket, so that’s not really much of a question. My question is whether or not the blanket stitch is a suitable technique for beginners; should I go ahead and attempt it, or should I do some additional research and find a more appropriate stitch for my experience level? My cousin (the baby’s mother) is very dear to me, and I really want to do something special for her first child—any advice that could be offered would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8630" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T14:04:46.917" Title="Is a blanket stitch doable for first-time knitters?" Tags="|knitting|yarn|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-20T20:41:04.897" Score="0" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used acrylic paint on broken used roofing slate and have tried to attach mdf cutouts with a hot glue gun and then pva glue but neither adheres.  Is there a glue which would stick the slate and mdf?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8631" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T14:48:59.113" Title="Which glue works for acrylic painted slate and mdf" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7735" CreationDate="2019-11-20T21:06:30.363" Score="1" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a little project, I would like to oxidize or galvanize stainless steel. So far I figured out, that it is not really possible to oxidize stainless steel yourself at home. &#xA;There for I had the idea of maybe galvanize it as this should be possible to DIY. If I could galvanize the stainless steel pieces with copper, I could let the copper oxidize afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Material question:&lt;/em&gt; Can I galvanize copper on stainless steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Common sense question:&lt;/em&gt; Is the expenditure reasonable to try this at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5885" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T04:55:14.327" Title="DIY galvanize copper on stainless steel?" Tags="|metal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7731" CreationDate="2019-11-20T22:27:30.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are searching the world wide interweb, use the terms &quot;electroplating copper on stainless steel&quot; and you will find that it's possible to create a copper layer on stainless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One source, from finishing.com suggests that it's challenging, because one has to have an active surface and stainless steel passivates immediately, but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finishing.com/153/52.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; offers information to deal with this aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My search returned many varying sources of information, regarding requirements for equipment, metals, chemicals, temperatures, etc. I suggest firing off a search with the above terms to find a resource suited to your specific tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home electroplating is a somewhat-common activity. Base equipment is a source of electricity, a solution of the desired metal (copper sulfate?), wires and safety gear. Some processes require temperature management of the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T22:27:30.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7729" CreationDate="2019-11-21T00:19:59.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A blanket stitch is used only for finishing the edges of a blanket, not for knitting a blanket. The basic stitches in knitting are the knit stitch and the purl stitch. Is there another name for the stitch you are calling a blanket stitch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a beginning knitter I would suggest using only the two basic stitches, or just the knit stitch alone. It takes a bit of time to learn those two stitches accurately. They may seem simple and easy, but once you start knitting, it can become confusing if you have no previous experience. It also takes some time to become comfortable casting on and binding off stitches. Basically you could learn many stitches, but just like many things in life, you need to have a solid foundation first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be successful and happy with your results, you need to have enough practice time to develop the tension you are comfortable with and comes most naturally to you. Working with the tension of the yarn in knitting is different than with crocheting, because you are using two needles and not just one. Most people starting out knit some stitches looser and some tighter, making the result inconsistent in the same piece, making one side longer than the other and/or rippled. Another thing many knitters experience is dropped stitches and unintended increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may seem like a simple thing to control but it happens even with experienced knitters and becomes more likely when working with increasingly complicated patterns. So I would suggest starting with a simple project (a blanket or scarf is perfect) as a new knitter, plan for success and not for frustration. Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8632" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T14:04:46.917" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T14:04:46.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2019-11-21T00:38:05.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand what you said, you are not using any purl stitches, just stockinette/knit stitch. The larger loop at the end of the row is a common problem, the solution that I have used is to always slip the first stitch (do not knit it), then continue knitting across the row. This has the effect of knitting that first stitch only every other row instead of every row, which tightens the yarn so the project is better able to keep its shape on the sides and helps prevent the large loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8632" LastEditorUserId="8632" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T01:17:15.263" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T01:17:15.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7731" CreationDate="2019-11-21T02:18:54.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's apparently easy enough to plate a layer of copper on stainless steel.  The problem is getting a layer thick enough to be visible, and getting it to adhere well.  @fred_dot_u's &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/7732/8251&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; beat me to the discussion in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.finishing.com/153/52.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;linked article&lt;/a&gt;.  For results suitable for typical industrial use, it generally requires chemicals you might not want to mess with at home.  Even manufacturers farm it out to companies that specialize in it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, what you can reasonably do at home might be adequate for what you need.  Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/High-Quality-Copper-Plating/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructable&lt;/a&gt; that describes the typical way to electroplate metals with copper at home.  Stainless steel will be more of a challenge, and the plating may not be durable, but it would be a relatively easy thing to test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also been some work with a gel that you apply to stainless steel and then abrade the surface under the gel to expose metal that is instantly plated.  It immediately forms a layer of copper that's just thick enough to color the surface, and then the process stops.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB_o_cKDAbY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; shows the process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It links to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-1t2JfLVKE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; that describes the gel and shows it being used in an additional way.  They use some copper wire connected to the stainless steel and embedded in the gel.  The gel acts like an electrolyte, and the wire and stainless steel create a battery that deposits a thicker layer of copper.  Unfortunately, I didn't notice a specific description of how to make the gel, but you may be able to find it by exploring their links.  Just knowing that the stuff exists means it's possible to do it (although they do it in a lab, not at home).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T02:18:54.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-21T14:10:14.717" Score="2" ViewCount="20077" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to glue together several sheets of polystyrene foam (just a prototype / research project). I choose extruded polystyrene foam for its extra strength compared to expanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am not sure sure which glue would make a better job at gluing. Since the surface to cover will be quite big, I prefer a cheaper glue, but still good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect the final structure to be as light as possible, so I assume that cements are out of question. Also, the curing time should not be too quick, I might not be able to move so fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I might embed meshes of glass fiber into the glue, for reinforcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am not in the US, please provide me with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;generic description of the glue;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;international brands of glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To estimate the volume of glue needed, do you think that the thickness of the glue is very important? Unless it is too thin, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other hints / advice are highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched on the internet, and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the descriptions were too generic, so I still do no know what to buy;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the brands were totally unknown to me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-16T03:06:55.800" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T03:06:55.800" Title="Glue for polystyrene foam" Tags="|adhesives|styrofoam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2019-11-21T15:59:38.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Polystyrene is attacked by many organic solvents, so I'd rule out all solvent-based glues you haven't personally tested.  Different compositions can be sold under the same name in different countries, or can change over time, and very similar names can have different ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves you with two options; I recommend the second: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Water-based glues&lt;/em&gt;: These will give you a low-strength bond on polystyrene, but if you have a large area of a fairly  weak material that might not matter.  PVA (white craft glue, wood glue) would be one type, latex (e.g. Copydex brand) would be another, but you'd need to be sure you were getting a water-based  product (many other glues with latex/rubber in the name are solvent-based).  You'd need to use a thin layer, and drying times would be longer than expected, because you're relying on water  evaporating and it has to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hot glue&lt;/em&gt;: Cool melt hot glue is plastic, which is melted and applied to one surface.  This sticks well to polystyrene.  It cools and solidifies fairly quickly when exposed to air, but extruded polystyrene will keep the heat in, so setting times will be increased.  As with water-based glues you'll have to support the workpiece while the glue dries.  This should give a stronger bond, as it is better able to fill the gaps in the surfaces.  You can get a range of colours, but don't expect to colour-match.  With decent pressure as the joint sets you can avoid gluing right to the edge; with a suitable colour the join can be subtle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T15:59:38.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-22T01:54:11.610" Score="3" ViewCount="2369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a project using simple 1&quot; x 2&quot; pieces of wood and attaching a length of textile between the planks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood will be about 12 inches long, and the fabric will go from long-edge to long edge and up to 3-4 feet wide. So, 12 inch by 36-46 inch pieces of fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ends of the fabric will be flush with the outer edges of the wood, and each end will be sandwiched between two of the pieces of wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once everything is assembled, the fabric will be taut, but still flexible, and need to support up to 40 pounds without the fabric tearing from screws I use to attach the top and bottom wood strips to one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to attach the fabric to the wood, without having to use glue. I want to be able to swap out the fabric with different lengths as desired, or attach multiple pieces that branch out in different directions. Some type of eyelet protector comes to mind, but I'm not sure how to attach one to a pre-made hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a 2-minute diagram of what I'm trying to achieve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1pH7S.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1pH7S.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the view you would see from the side, once this hammock/shelf is attached to a wall. The brown pieces are the woods sandwiching the blue fabric, and the grey parts are the screws/bolts I will be putting through the wood and fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those curious, I have been inspired by some cat shelf/highway products, but am not satisfied with the appearance of them. I want to make something myself that is functional &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; pretty. But, since living creatures will be playing and sleeping on these modular pieces, &lt;strong&gt;safety&lt;/strong&gt; is of the utmost import.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user24" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T02:58:58.840" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T18:02:46.363" Title="How can I secure stiff fabric to wood without risking ripping and without adhesives?" Tags="|fabric|wood|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7738" CreationDate="2019-11-22T02:52:21.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a couple possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;fabric only&quot; method would be to sew &lt;strong&gt;buttonholes&lt;/strong&gt;. These are reinforced with thread all around a slit in the fabric, which prevents fraying and tearing at a frequently-stressed point. While they're most often used in clothing, I have also used buttonholes on a shower curtain -- I haven't tried on an application that would hold up to 40 pounds.* Many sewing machines have a buttonhole foot and stitch available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;strong&gt;grommets&lt;/strong&gt; would be the eyelet protectors that you mention as a possibility. These are stronger reinforcement (basically metal buttonhole edging!) but do require &lt;a href=&quot;https://sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/how-install-metal-grommets-your-sewing-projects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tools&lt;/a&gt; to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, I'd recommend... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run a nice sturdy seam along the outermost edge of each shelf piece to have a &quot;safety&quot; barrier in the event that a tear does start at one of the mounting holes. Fabric can often rip fairly easily, but trying to rip through a seam is much more difficult -- think of a pair of jeans, for example, you won't get through the side seams without cutting!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the wood sandwich pieces cinched down tightly when assembled, so the fabric isn't able to move at the hole locations. The less it rubs against the bolts in general, the less wear and therefore the less chance of tearing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* &lt;em&gt;Remember, the more holes you have, the less weight each one has to hold. 4 holes would each only need to stand up to 10 pounds of pulling, for example.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2019-11-22T02:58:20.753" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T02:58:20.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7729" CreationDate="2019-11-22T10:52:44.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/7733/6316&quot;&gt;111's answer&lt;/a&gt;, a blanket stitch is not a knitting technique to create blankets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest risk in your plan is time. Babies often decide they want to see the world before doctors decide it's time for their birth. You should finish the blanket at least 2 - 3 weeks before the scheduled date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are quick and comfortable learning knitting, you can use any stitch or technique you'd like. I found Youtube videos extremely helpful and did learn complicated patterns that I wouldn't have understood otherwise. But you should experiement and create small test pieces of your blanket before knitting the whole thing and then realizing that the corners roll up and it's impossible to actually use it as a baby blanket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's where the time requirement comes in: If you don't have experience with how certain knitting pattern react, you need more time to experiment. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; knit an entire blanket with just stockinette stitch, but it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; roll up at the sides and won't lay flat. You could knit it with a ribbing stitch (usually found in knit cuffs, because it prevents rolling), but you'll need to knit it wider than intended because the finished piece contracts some and is narrower than it was on the needle. There are very beautiful and easy cable patterns, but if you cannot &quot;read&quot; the stitches on your needle it's very easy to make mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Additional hint: the &quot;continental&quot; knitting style is faster than the &quot;english&quot; style, but they both produce exactly the same patterns by the exact same needle movements. I highly recommend learning contonental style from the beginning.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fear you won't be able to finish a knit blanket in time, crochet it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T10:52:44.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7738" CreationDate="2019-11-22T12:29:41.587" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of securing the fabric with the scews, I'd let the fabric secure itself on the outer edge of the wood. The less holes you poke into a fabric, the stronger it is to withstand tearing or wearing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of a simple hem, you could roll and secure the fabric (light blue) around a cord or other thick material (dark blue) to create a bulge that is held by the wood (brown). If the material is somewhat thick and the wood closes well without big gaps, a &quot;simple&quot; hem might even be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxyY7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxyY7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preserves the fabric's strength by avoiding holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a weight pulls the fabric down, the force is distributed between all points on the edge instead of single holes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can easily replace one piece of fabric with another one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No need to sew button holes or inser grommets into the new fabric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvantages&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to sew a thick or corded hem on the fabric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hem is always visible on the &quot;outside&quot; of the wood pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-11-22T12:29:41.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3299" CreationDate="2019-11-23T12:17:24.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually on Larps I found out that cloaks are much more warmer solution than jackets, have to guess but I think because they trap the air around your body. A thin layer of fabric cloak has more warming effect than the same or even a bit thicker layer of jacket/robe. At least in my experiences. Also for movement I found that in cloaks I don’t feel like a dummy doll my movements are much more free if I count with the cloak of course. This is a reason why many of my friends and me try to always opt for cloaks in case of Larp.  I’m surprised that others experienced the exact opposite. Naturally you want to find in any case the most optimal pattern. Because cloaks can be very simple how you wear them can also be varied very easily. Also they have a much more variety of uses like: a mat, a pillow, a blanket etc...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are advantages in Larp or camping or were in the medieval times. And just a bonus: look much more cooler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In modern day use we have similar things mostly for women called poncho which I actually use in my daily life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8639" LastActivityDate="2019-11-23T12:17:24.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-23T14:26:45.437" Score="4" ViewCount="2242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried searching for this online, but after a few minutes I couldn't find a conclusive answer. Does anyone know how long it lasts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is if I write a message in lemon on a piece of paper, keep it in a cupboard for x months/years, how long until the message will be lost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8640" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T17:12:28.517" Title="How long does invisible lemon ink last?" Tags="|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2019-11-23T17:53:57.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adhesives that bond well to polystyrene include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cyanoacrylates – Cyanoacrylates bond well to polystyrene.  Use&#xA;only enough adhesive to cover the joint, then assemble as soon as&#xA;practical.  For best appearance use a low odor grade.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two component epoxies bond well to polystyrene.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;UV Curable – UV Curable adhesives are an excellent choice for bonding&#xA;polystyrene.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.permabond.com/materials_bonded/how-to-bond-polystyrene/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lifted from Permabond website&lt;/a&gt; and edited to remove product references.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably go with a two component epoxy. They are widely available and have a longer working time than the water like Cyanoacrylates. However the Cyanoacrylates may give you a cleaner and lighter weld. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage to the two part epoxy is that you can embed stuff in it. I do not think you would need to do that to make a stronger bond though as having another material in there may actually weaken the attachment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just check the product labels to be sure it will work with the specific materials you are using, and doing a test on some expendable material is always a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-11-23T18:01:12.943" LastActivityDate="2019-11-23T18:01:12.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2019-11-23T18:26:17.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this isn't the official answer, but I wanted to give an easy one for people as I've been drawing with markers for years now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Marker paper&lt;/strong&gt;. Yes it's that simple. It's pure white, and doesn't bleed or spread when you apply the tip. It also instantly absorbs the marker only where you apply the tip. Comic book art, illustrations, graphic drawing, cartoons, anime, etc. all look perfect on this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cardstock&lt;/strong&gt;. You have options of different colors and textures. But I like the benefit because it bleeds and spreads a little, which can help out when shading more because you can blend and fade the markers over really well. This helps when making a more realistic drawing. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again I know this isn't the official answer but for newbies who don't want to learn everything there is about paper and just want a straight answer here you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8641" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T05:22:08.817" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T05:22:08.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2019-11-23T20:07:41.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For simplicity, I'll refer to all polystyrene foam, both extruded and expanded, as &quot;Styrofoam&quot;; the adhesives will be the same.  There are a lot of adhesives that will stick Styrofoam together.  Most of those will be adequate for an art project where nothing will be under stress.  If the glue joint needs to have mechanical strength similar to the Styrofoam, itself, (i.e., you need to &quot;weld&quot; the pieces together to have strength similar to having originally molded a single piece), only some of the adhesives will do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The joint strength will be affected by several things:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The surface area of the joint.  If there is a lot of surface area, even an inexpensive, weak glue, like PVA craft glue, will have a lot of holding strength if you give it time to dry.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drying time.  For adhesives that cure by evaporation, a large surface area can take a very long time for the glue to cure.  The glue joint is sealed in an air-tight &quot;container&quot; between the pieces, and evaporation happens at the exposed edge after migrating through the glue.  It can take a week or longer for the glue joint to have real strength.  You will have a strong joint only if you have the time to wait.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Surface texture.  Some Styrofoam has a very smooth surface and some has a lot of surface texture.  If there is significant surface texture, only the high points will be in contact; so it might be a large area, but not much of it is actually touching.  OTOH, surface texture provides more surface for the adhesive to grab.  That difference affects the type of adhesive that will work best.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, regular cyanoacrylates (super glue, the thin stuff), has the most strength as a microscopic layer between two tightly-mating surfaces.  Globs of it filling voids doesn't have great strength.  That will work on Styrofoam with a very smooth surface.  On a textured surface, it will be an expensive adhesive that doesn't buy you much over something like PVA glue that fills the voids and has adequate time to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before getting to specific recommendations, I'll preserve here something I mentioned in a comment.  If a water-based glue, like PVA craft glue, will be adequate for your needs (and you have time for it to cure), tacky glue, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00178KLEY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aleene's Tacky Glue&lt;/a&gt;, will hold better than plain PVA craft glue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several adhesives that haven't been mentioned yet, that are the strongest if you need a &quot;structural&quot; joint.  These will create joints that are stronger than the Styrofoam, itself (if you try to separate the pieces, the Styrofoam will break in another spot before the glue joint separates).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's an interesting test of adhesives joining Styrofoam in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnOegaOKu38&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;.  I found the results surprising.  Note, though, that the tests were performed after 48 hours.  A number of products failed because they hadn't cured yet.  They may well have fared better if given sufficient time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glidden-Gripper-1-qt-Gripper-Interior-Exterior-White-Primer-Sealer-GPG-0000-04/100157932&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glidden Gripper Primer and Sealer&lt;/a&gt;.  This is one I wouldn't have thought of, but it is apparently a well-known secret among crafters.  It's inexpensive compared to many of the adhesives, and basically welds Styrofoam together.  In the side-by-side test I linked to above, it came out the best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gorilla Glue.  It requires moisture for the glue to work.  On large Styrofoam surfaces, curing time can be long if you rely on room humidity to seep into the joint.  Mist one of the surfaces slightly before gluing to speed things up.  If you need to avoid the glue expanding out of the joint, there's a non-foaming version.  Otherwise, just apply it sparingly and not too close to the edge, and wipe any that oozes out before it hardens.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great Stuff (and similar) foam sealant.  Use a tiny amount because it expands -- a few dots or a thin bead -- and press the parts together before it starts to harden.  It may expand out the sides of the joint, so there can be some cleanup if you use too much.  Wipe off excess while it's still liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of other adhesives commonly used, including construction adhesive designed for the purpose and spray adhesive, but they aren't as strong as these three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-11-24T18:48:36.740" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T18:48:36.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7743" CreationDate="2019-11-25T10:14:21.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the hidden message won't be lost, it will become visible instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any practical experiences after what time the message will become visible, but I'm reasonably sure it depends on the type of paper you used and under which conditions the paper is stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lemon juice as &quot;invisible ink&quot; works by oxidizing the paper, which accelerates it's ageing. Applying heat further accelerates the chemical reaction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put a blank sheet of paper on a hot plate, it will eventually become brown. The parts where you applied lemon juice discolor much faster, which makes the secret message visible. It's not the lemon juice that gets brown, it's the paper itself that does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't actively accelerate the reaction by applying heat, the lemon juice will react with the paper much slower. Direct sunlight and a hot environment would probably make the message visible within a year. In a cool and dark storage the message could stay hidden for several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T10:14:21.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2019-11-25T16:29:49.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative and less evident way, is to &lt;strong&gt;symbolize&lt;/strong&gt; the story.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, take the rich (but often obscure) traditions of renaissance and baroque portrait painting: the clothes, posture, lighting, props, even materials, all (potentially) tell a story of the person depicted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate this, let's have a look at Da Vinci's &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e1/The_Lady_with_an_Ermine.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lady with an Ermine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, a portrait of Cecilia Gallerani, who was one of Da Vinci's patron Ludovico Sforza's mistresses. The symbolism behind the seemingly incidental addition of the ermine, although inconclusively, has been ascribed to several factors: the sitter's last name, her lover, to his participation in The Order of the Ermine, or to the purity and moderation of the young lady. Her relatively plain clothing tells us she was not of nobility.*   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the colours, her hand, her coiffure, her posture, the dark (although possibly blackened) background, along with hidden features like compositional geometry, all might and could have been used to convey information, however transparent or esoteric.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a chronological &quot;&lt;em&gt;series of things&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, this might not be the right approach exclusively: nevertheless, it can be used in conjunction with the elements mentioned in the other answer, to tell whatever story you want to tell in a richer and more profound manner, as the examples given there doubtlessly have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;* &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_with_an_Ermine#Subject_and_symbolism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_with_an_Ermine#Subject_and_symbolism&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T16:29:49.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7709" CreationDate="2019-11-26T21:55:58.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep them moist, clean them. If wooden be careful of leaving submerged as the coating will peel or warp them. Personally I keep hold of my dilapidated brushes too as a distressed brush can give some interesting effects when combined with different media....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8646" LastActivityDate="2019-11-26T21:55:58.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-27T09:33:01.950" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want the best results in your paintings, you also need to find the best watercolor paper brand. This way, you will not only have a perfect texture but also incredible results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various factors that you need to keep in mind when you try to find the best one. The material, quality, texture, roughness of the watercolor paper matters a lot. Moreover, if you plan on selling your paintings, the finished painting has to be impressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8648" LastActivityDate="2019-11-27T09:33:01.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7738" CreationDate="2019-11-28T18:02:46.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of adding any holes or other fittings to the fabric, you could &lt;strong&gt;design the brackets to clamp the fabric, along its entire width&lt;/strong&gt;. That way, there is no localized stress on the fabric, and you can position the fabric wherever you want (including small length/tension adjustments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catch is that you will have to either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the clamps longer than the fabric is wide, so that there can be one screw at each end, not going through the fabric, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Design them so that the clamping screws are past the end of the fabric (which requires more complex woodworking).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to ensure the wood gets a good grip on the fabric:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(For the first option) Shape a slight convex curve on each of the two pieces of wood so that they meet in the middle first, and when the screws tighten down they try to straighten the curve. This will counteract the wood's tendency to bend and exert less clamping pressure in the center. The curves do need to be very smooth to avoid gripping in only some spots, but we can compensate for that:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add some type of rubber sheet material (e.g. shelf liner, the kind that is a rubber mesh) to increase friction. This would also allow compensation for irregularity in the wood (whether original or in your work) since the rubber is compressible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTz1e.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTz1e.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second design, the necessary curve is exaggerated in the diagram, but if you provide enough room in the middle area you could combine it with sewing rods into the ends of the fabric as &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/7741&quot;&gt;Elmy's answer&lt;/a&gt; proposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5870" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T18:02:46.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7870" CreationDate="2019-11-29T05:15:07.730" Score="5" ViewCount="1682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of paper memorabilia which would like to bind into a book. The challenge is that there are two types of pages, each type having a slightly different size; and the pages interleave. I don't want to cut them to the smaller size - there is virtually no margin space on the smaller pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a binding technique I can use? How do I even align the block? (the problem is that smaller pages are free-floating between larger ones)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about going page by page and manually gluing each one to align. After that I would use one of the standard book-binding techniques to form a strong spine (e.g double fan or notched-spine). But maybe there is a better way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two types of pages (smaller white and slightly larger yellow):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQikv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQikv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two types of pages&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Block:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XGCbD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XGCbD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;block&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: described the problem with the algnment, clarified that I meant to use glue to help with that part only, and mentioned the planned ways to form the spine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8656" LastEditorUserId="8656" LastEditDate="2019-11-29T21:32:08.443" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T08:26:44.100" Title="Binding variously sized pages into a book" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7753" CreationDate="2019-11-29T06:51:49.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience I know that glued books a disaster. Sooner or later, the pages will fly freely again. So I actually recommend against just gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see some options, none of them really perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a sheet puncher. Add the sheets to a folder or a binder. While the binder is actually more awkward, it allows for easier page turning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add each sheet to a plastic sleeve. Add the plastic sleeves to a folder or to a binder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually use option 2 for several purposes, when I need to keep documents organized: medical papers, job related stuff (e.g. contracts), proofs of purchase, proofs of payment...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can imagine that those papers come in all shapes and sizes. But the sleeves accept anything, and order is restored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T06:51:49.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7753" CreationDate="2019-11-29T09:06:59.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bookbinding in the traditional sense is a painstaking process that requires you to cut the edges of your pages. I once saw a documentary explaining the process (I'll try to find a video or reference later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pages are cut slightly biggher that the book should become&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pages are aligned (you'll never be able to perfectly align every single page), pressed tightly together and the edges are cut from the block to give all pages the same size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A special glue is applied to the freshly cut and still-pressed-together edge that faces the spine. This glue must be viscous enough not to seep into the paper and stay flexible after drying&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A strip of fabric is pressed to the glued edge to hold the pages together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The block of pages is released from the press after the glue dried and subsequently fixed between book covers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you plan to do (glueing the edges of paper sheets together) yields a result like a cheap sketch pad that looses pages after being turned a few times. Every paper that wasn't perfectly aligned and has no contact with the glue falls out immediately. Or even worse: the glue seeps into the pages and you won't be able to turn them individually anymore &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; lose the information written at the egde anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in several comments and answers, your best bet is to take an existing book and attach the papers to the pages scrapbook-style or put them in plastic sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T09:06:59.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7753" CreationDate="2019-11-29T18:34:44.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An option I've often used is self-adhesive binder strips.  They're typically about 1&quot; wide clear mylar that's pre-punched with standard looseleaf holes on one edge and an adhesive strip on the other.  You stick it onto the edge of the document.  There are a few styles available like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WKHSm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WKHSm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00WT467PC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyUce.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyUce.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00284C7Z2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small items, you can cut the strip to a shorter size and use just two of the binder rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T18:34:44.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5587" CreationDate="2019-11-29T21:58:32.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to do something similar recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with a pencil sketch and a cutout (could be just a sketch in your case), I took a picture of it using my phone:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AfZEw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AfZEw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imported the picture into &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecadweb.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FreeCad&lt;/a&gt; (yes, it is free) and used its &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/Sketcher_Workbench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sketcher workbench&lt;/a&gt; to trace over the image. That produced a &quot;proper&quot; engineering model (where I could control sizes, placement of elements etc):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYkJb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYkJb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/Drawing_Module&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawing workbench&lt;/a&gt; to create a technical drawing which I exported to PDF at scale, printed it out and in my case glued to cardboard to cut the final box out of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q8nf8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q8nf8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I must warn you that the learning curve of FreeCad is pretty steep, but I think it is a great tool to keep in your toolbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8656" LastEditorUserId="8656" LastEditDate="2019-11-30T06:32:39.930" LastActivityDate="2019-11-30T06:32:39.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7753" CreationDate="2019-11-30T03:35:36.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Comparison of Two Possible Solutions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Binding the larger papers, scrapbooking the smaller ones:&lt;/strong&gt; You have thought of the unconventional idea of binding the larger memorabilia pages and then using scrapbooking techniques to secure the smaller pages within that bound book.  Unfortunately, it is possible that the bulk that would be added with this technique could be prohibitive, depending on how many smaller pages there are.  For example, if you were to interleave one piece of paper in each gutter of any random bound book, you would have effectively doubled the number of pages, and the book would neither close nor lay normally:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUdZX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUdZX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overstuffed book&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the term “unconventional” for your idea, because it would be out of the ordinary to bind the documents you are trying to preserve, as this would irreversibly alter them. The more traditional approach would be to affix the items to archival (lignin / acid free) album pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proposed Alternative: Traditional Scrapbooking in a Post-Bound Album:&lt;/strong&gt;  In agreement with @ChrisH, below is a list of “pros” for a scrapbooking approach (which is, the use of adhesive or mounting corners to adhere your memorabilia to album pages.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am specifically recommending Post-Bound albums, which have special expandable bindings that use 2 or 3 metal binding posts &lt;a href=&quot;http://**A%20Comparison%20of%20Two%20Possible%20Solutions:**%20%20**Binding%20the%20larger%20papers,%20scrapbooking%20the%20smaller%20ones:**%20You%20have%20thought%20of%20the%20unconventional%20idea%20of%20going%20ahead%20with%20binding%20the%20larger%20pages%20and%20then%20using%20scrapbooking%20techniques%20to%20secure%20the%20smaller%20pages%20within%20that%20bound%20book.%20%20The%20bulk%20that%20would%20be%20added%20with%20this%20technique%20could%20be%20prohibitive,%20depending%20on%20how%20many%20smaller%20pages%20there%20are.%20%20For%20example,%20if%20you%20were%20to%20interleave%20one%20piece%20of%20paper%20in%20each%20gutter%20of%20any%20random%20bound%20book,%20you%20would%20have%20effectively%20doubled%20the%20number%20of%20pages,%20and%20the%20book%20would%20neither%20close%20nor%20lay%20normally,%20as%20shown%20in%20the%20photo%20below.%20%20%20I%20have%20used%20the%20term%20%E2%80%9Cunconventional%E2%80%9D%20for%20your%20idea%20because%20it%20would%20be%20out%20of%20the%20ordinary%20to%20bind%20the%20type%20of%20documents%20you%20are%20trying%20to%20preserve,%20due%20to%20the%20fact%20that%20you%20would%20be%20irreversibly%20altering%20them%20through%20punching,%20trimming,%20etc...%20It%20would%20be%20more%20traditional%20to%20affix%20both%20sizes%20of%20memorabilia%20to%20archival%20(lignin%20/%20acid%20free)%20album%20pages.%20%20**Proposed%20Alternative:%20Traditional%20Scrapbooking%20in%20a%20Post-Bound%20Album:**%20%20In%20agreement%20with%20@ChrisH,%20below%20is%20a%20list%20of%20reasons%20why%20a%20scrapbooking%20approach%20(that%20is,%20the%20use%20of%20adhesive%20or%20mounting%20corners%20to%20adhere%20your%20vintage%20memorabilia%20to%20album%20pages)%20would%20adapt%20very%20well%20to%20the%20materials%20you%20are%20organizing.%20%20I%20am%20specifically%20recommending%20Post-Bound%20albums,%20which%20have%20special%20expandable%20bindings%20that%20use%202%20or%203%20metal%20binding%20posts%20(screw%20heads%20on%20both%20ends%20of%20a%20post,%20one%20stationary,%20one%20moveable)%20to%20tightly%20hold%20the%20pages%20between%20the%20front%20and%20back%20covers.%20Using%20an%20album%20with%20three%20posts%20is%20much%20sturdier%20for%20a%20thick,%20heavy%20project.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20One%20can%20easily%20achieve%20the%20look%20of%20a%20bound%20book,%20even%20on%20the%20back%20of%20the%20spine:%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20These%20scrapbook%20bindings%20are%20expandable,%20allowing%20for%20the%20addition%20of%20more%20pages%20by%20changing%20to%20longer%20post%20screws.%20The%20longest%20posts%20I%20found%20are%20these%2060%20mm%20posts%20on%20the%20Michael%E2%80%99s%20website.%20%20%20%20%20-%20The%20integrity%20of%20the%20vintage%20pages%20can%20not%20only%20be%20preserved,%20but%20they%20can%20be%20protected%20from%20further%20damage.%20%20%20%20%20-%20Pages%20with%20content%20on%20both%20sides%20can%20be%20placed%20in%20page%20protector%20pocket%20sleeves%20or%20in%20photo%20sleeves%20so%20that%20both%20sides%20are%20visible.%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20By%20not%20binding%20the%20larger%20vintage%20papers,%20possibilities%20are%20opened%20up%20to%20archival%20methods%20of%20mounting%20materials%20to%20album%20paper:%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20Glue-on%20Photo%20and%20Art%20Mounting%20Corners%20made%20of%20polypropylene.%20Here%20are%20some%20self-adhesive%20corners.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20Adhesives,%20including%20acrylic-based%20glue,%20starch-based%20glue,%20or%20these%20super%20convenient%20glue%20dots.%20%20%20%20%20-%20You%20can%20customize%20for%20the%20best%20weight%20and%20size%20of%20paper%20best%20suited%20to%20your%20project.%20Here%20are%20some%20specifics%20about%20album%20paper%20to%20help%20you%20in%20your%20choices:%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20Scrapbooking%20paper%20sizes:%20The%20two%20main%20sizes%20for%20a%20project%20such%20as%20yours%20are%2012%E2%80%9D%20x%2012%E2%80%9D,%20and%208.5%E2%80%9D%20x%2011%E2%80%9D.%2012%E2%80%9D%20x%2012%E2%80%9D%20seems%20more%20economical,%20as%20you%20can%20fit%20in%20more%20objects%20per%20page.%20Also%20there%20are%20more%20choices%20of%20paper%20in%20the%2012%E2%80%9D%20x%2012%E2%80%9D%20size.%20Cons%20of%2012%E2%80%9D%20x%2012%E2%80%9D%20are%20that%20it%20is%20more%20expensive%20*per%20page*,%20and%20that%20there%20is%20a%20wider%20selection%20of%20binders%20in%20the%208.5%E2%80%9D%20x%2011%E2%80%9D%20size.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20The%20weight%20of%20a%20paper%20is%20measured%20as%20the%20fixed%20weight%20of%20500%20sheets%20of%20said%20paper,%20stacked,%20then%20measured%20in%20pounds.%20A%20stack%20of%20500%20sheets%20of%20copy%20paper,%20for%20example,%20weighs%20about%2020%20lbs.%20Therefore,%20standard%20copy%20paper%20has%20a%20listed%20weight%20of%2020%20lbs.%20(This%20is%20the%20U.S.%20measurement%20system.%20It%20is%20measured%20by%20GSM%20in%20Europe%20and%20other%20parts%20of%20the%20world.)%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20*%20Categories%20of%20paper%20by%20weight:%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%2010-55%20lbs:%20Light%20weight%20paper%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%2055-85%20lbs:%20Medium%20weight%20paper%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%2085-120%20lbs:%20Heavy%20weight%20paper%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20120%20lbs%20and%20up:%20Extra%20heavy%20weight%20paper%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20*%20Choosing%20the%20best%20paper%20weight%20for%20your%20application:%20I%20think%2060%20to%2080%20lb%20paper%20would%20probably%20be%20your%20best%20range:%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%2020%20lbs:%20Jot%20a%20note,%20make%20a%20copy.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%2035%20lbs:%20Print%20double-sided%20without%20it%20showing%20through%20on%20the%20other%20side;%20no%20embellishments.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%2060-65%20lbs:%20%20Heavier%20than%20copy%20paper,%20but%20won%E2%80%99t%20be%20holding%20very%20many%20embellishments%20or%20liquid%20adhesives;%20a%20common%20weight%20for%20lighter%20patterned%20scrapbook%20paper,%20drawing%20paper,%20and%20lightweight%20card%20stock.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%2080%20lbs:%20A%20base%20for%20a%20card%20or%20a%20sturdy%20layout%20page%20involving%20liquid%20adhesives,%20embellishments,%20and%20some%20mixed%20media%20elements;%20the%20weight%20of%20business%20cards.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%2090-110%20lbs:%20High%20quality%20invitations%20or%20announcements;%20a%20%20heavy,%20high%20quality%20cardstock,%20accommodates%20heavy%20embellishments,%20paints,%20paste,%20ink,%20mixed%20media.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20110%20lb%20paper:%20Standard%20for%20cards%20with%20lots%20of%20embellishments.%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20-%20140%20lbs:%20For%20watercolor%20painting%20and%20mixed%20media%20inks;%20a%20thick,%20heavy%20paper,%20will%20%20buckle%20or%20warp%20much%20less%20than%20lighter%20papers%20when%20wet;%20holds%20weighty%20embellishments.%20%20%20%20%20-%20Although%20archival%20scrapbooking%20materials%20can%20be%20expensive,%20decent%20products%20are%20out%20there%20in%20an%20affordable%20range,%20especially%20if%20you%20keep%20the%20design%20simple,%20which%20seems%20to%20be%20your%20intent.%20When%20I%20was%20new%20to%20scrapbooking,%20the%20biggest%20challenge%20was%20dealing%20with%20the%20overwhelming%20quantity%20of%20choices.%20%20Going%20into%20this%20project%20with%20as%20clear%20and%20specific%20an%20idea%20as%20possible%20of%20what%20you%20want%20the%20final%20product%20to%20look%20like%20will%20help%20prevent%20information%20overload.%20Here%20is%20an%20excellent%20article%20for%20beginning%20scrapbookers,%20which%20was%20a%20source%20for%20quite%20a%20bit%20of%20the%20information%20above,%20and%20includes%20compelling%20rationale%20for%20use%20of%20archival%20materials.%20%20%20%20%20-%20%20Scrapbooking%20techniques%20are%20very%20straightforward%20for%20a%20project%20such%20as%20yours.%20Really%20once%20you%20have%20researched%20and%20chosen%20your%20materials,%20the%20rest%20of%20the%20task%20will%20not%20require%20much%20of%20a%20learning%20curve%20at%20all,%20nor%20a%20lot%20of%20special%20equipment,%20which%20would%20both%20be%20the%20case%20if%20you%20were%20to%20go%20the%20bound%20book%20route.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(screw heads on both ends of a post, one stationary, one moveable)&lt;/a&gt; to tightly hold the pages between the front and back covers. Using an album with three posts is much sturdier for a thick, heavy project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Jy5G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Jy5G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;post-bound schematic at amazon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1iOKJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1iOKJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;empty post-bound album&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4FGg9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4FGg9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spines of post-bound albums&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One can easily achieve the look of a bound book, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.capturingmagicalmemories.com/making-your-own-spine-labels-for-your-disney-albums/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;even on the back of the spine.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Post-Bound scrapbook bindings are expandable, allowing for the addition of more pages by changing to longer post screws.The longest posts I found are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.michaels.com/recollections-extension-posts/M10221975.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these 60 mm posts on the Michael’s website.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The integrity of the memorabilia can not only be preserved, but they can be protected from further damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pages with contents on both sides can be placed in page &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.keepfiling.com/Presentation-Cover-p/13280.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;protector pocket sleeves&lt;/a&gt; or in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.keepfiling.com/8-x-10-Photo-Page-Protectors-p/11810-25.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photo sleeves&lt;/a&gt; so that both sides are visible. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By not binding the larger memorabilia pieces, one can tap into archival methods for mounting materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Photo and Art Mounting Corners made of polypropylene; these are [self-adhesive.][10&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adhesives, all archival, including &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/categories/studio/tape/archival/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;acrylic-based glue, starch-based glue, or even convenient glue dots.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can customize the size and weight of album paper to what is best suited to your materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SIZES of Scrapbooking paper: The two main sizes for a project such as yours are 12” x 12”, and 8.5” x 11”. 12” x 12” seems more economical, as you can fit in more objects per page. Also there are more choices of paper in the 12” x 12” size. Cons of 12” x 12” are that it is more expensive &lt;em&gt;per page&lt;/em&gt;, and that there is a wider selection of binders in the 8.5” x 11” size. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;WEIGHT of album paper: This is measured as the fixed weight of 500 sheets of said paper, stacked, then measured in pounds. A stack of 500 sheets of copy paper, for example, weighs about 20 lbs. Therefore, standard copy paper has a listed weight of 20 lbs. (This is the U.S. measurement system. It is measured by GSM in Europe and other parts of the world.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Categories of paper by weight:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;10-55 lbs: Light weight paper &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;55-85 lbs: Medium weight paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;85-120 lbs: Heavy weight paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;120 lbs and up: Extra heavy weight paper &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Choosing the best weight of paper for your application: I think 60 to 80 lb paper would probably be your best range:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;20 lbs: Jot a note, make a copy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;35 lbs: Print double-sided without it showing through on the other side; no embellishments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;60-65 lbs:  Heavier than copy paper, but won’t be holding very many embellishments or liquid adhesives; a common weight for&#xA;  lighter patterned scrapbook paper, drawing paper, and lightweight card&#xA;  stock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;80 lbs: A base for a card or a sturdy layout page involving liquid adhesives, embellishments, and some mixed media elements; the&#xA;  weight of business cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;90-110 lbs: High quality invitations or announcements; a  heavy, high quality cardstock, accommodates heavy embellishments,&#xA;  paints, paste, ink, mixed media.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;110 lb paper: Standard for cards with lots of embellishments. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;140 lbs: For watercolor painting and mixed media inks; a thick, heavy paper, will  buckle or warp much less than lighter papers&#xA;  when wet; holds weighty embellishments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Although archival scrapbooking materials can be expensive, decent products are out there in an affordable range, especially if you maintain a simple design, which seems to be your intent. When I was new to scrapbooking, the biggest challenge was dealing with the overwhelming quantity of choices.  Going into this project with as clear and specific an idea as possible on what you want the final product to look like will help prevent information overload. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scrapbook.com/articles/everything-you-need-to-know-about-paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an excellent article for beginning scrapbookers, which was a source for quite a bit of the information above, and includes compelling rationale for use of archival materials.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scrapbooking techniques are very straightforward for a project such as yours. Really once you have researched and chosen your materials, the rest of the task will not require much of a learning curve at all, nor a lot of special equipment, which would both be the case if you were to go the bound book route.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-12-01T17:22:12.103" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T17:22:12.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-11-30T04:53:02.737" Score="2" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I carved a little pig out of soapstone and made him look like he was hairy (pigs are covered in bristly hair, you know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soapstonesculpture.com/polish.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wonderful article about how to polish soapstone&lt;/a&gt;, and so I oiled the stone with linseed oil. The pig's nose polishes up really nicely, but all the indentations where I scratched in the hairs dried white.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How can I polish the scratches, too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm beginning to wish it was a smooth pig instead of a hairy one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdknQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdknQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/otW6F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here are a few more images on my imgur&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using a buffing wheel with my Dremel, but it removes material instead of polishing. I tried several different ones, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-11-30T23:22:00.470" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T11:28:13.280" Title="How to polish indentations in soapstone" Tags="|carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7729" CreationDate="2019-11-30T16:53:35.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, you have yarn and needles, and you have YouTube. Most importantly you are a crocheter, so you’ve got this! You know your way around a pattern and you know how to wrangle yarn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need are two things: comfort with The Knit Stitch, and a recipe for making a blanket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I grew up knitting English style (“throwing”) and decided phooey on that at some point, and locked myself in my craft room for three days with YouTube, and emerged knitting Continental like a pro! YouTube is awesome for learning to knit, you can play the demo back a million times, even in slo-mo, until the light bulbs are going on in your brain and your hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it is true that the Blanket Stitch is actually a sewn edging stitch, not a knitting technique, yes you can totally accomplish that. I just reviewed some of the top YouTube hits on how it is done, and they are very clear. But first you need a blanket to perform the Blanket Stitch upon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to focus on one thing, the knitting stitch. You can make an entire blanket with just that stitch: knitting back and forth, using the knit stitch for every row both front and back. This is called “Garter Stitch”. The beauty part of Garter Stitch is it will not roll. It makes a very cozy fabric that lays nice and flat. It would look glorious with a contrasting Blanket Stitch edge! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.allaboutami.com/knitting-beginners-knit-garter-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a lovely tutorial offered at “All About Ami”, in which Stephanie walks you through casting on and working Garter Stitch.&lt;/a&gt; Her finished project is a &lt;em&gt;gorgeous&lt;/em&gt; oversized Garter Stitch scarf, so you can see how pretty it knits up. Also for your consideration, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.allaboutami.com/simple-garter-stitch-blanket/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is her free “Simple Garter Stitch Blanket” pattern!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vickiehowell.com/2018/09/how-to-knit-a-blanket/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another potential resource to get you off on the right foot is this tutorial by Vickie Howell&lt;/a&gt;, in which she offers step-by-step instructions on how to knit a blanket from a “recipe”. In other words, you don’t really need a pattern, it is just a square or rectangle, so there is no issue of it being a certain size or proportion in order to fit properly. She walks you through how to create a “Gauge Swatch”, which gives you data on stitch and row counts. These numbers help you cast on the right amount of stitches for the width of your blanket. Then you knit it until it is the length you want, and Voila!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some math involved, but Vickie Howell makes it very easy with a convenient “Blanket Recipe Worksheet”, which she walks you through.  I would recommend just keeping things super simple with straight Garter Stitch and no borders, then Blanket Stitch the edges...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It would be awesome to see a photo of your finished project!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Knitting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2019-11-30T17:06:13.923" LastActivityDate="2019-11-30T17:06:13.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7765" CreationDate="2019-11-30T17:35:48.080" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often struggle with deciding what to draw. Sometimes even prompts don’t work when faced with artist's block, or I am struggling with coming up with ideas on what to draw. What are some strategies you recommend to help come up with things to draw?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;More specifically, I like to draw people and landscapes mostly, so how do I decide what type of person or what kind of landscape (e.g. the physical appearance or attributes of a person, or the type of terrain, weather or scenery for landscapes) to draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8658" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-27T23:03:35.607" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T23:03:35.607" Title="How to deal with artist's block?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2019-12-02T03:55:23.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7759" CreationDate="2019-11-30T17:41:55.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personal opinion: it looks good as-is.  The hair gouges stand out, providing good contrast.  If you try to polish the scratches and are successful, it will become just a textured surface that won't have enough gouges to be good-looking hair texture.  Also, the polished snout contrasts with the hair, making it more realistic.  I think trying to polish the hair will degrade the appearance rather than improve it.  But that's just me; it's your pig.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closeup pictures in the link show some of the detail in the gouges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnK3N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnK3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They look white because the surface of the gouges is very irregular and grainy.  That won't be fixed by buffing, it would require smoothing the surface of each gouge, which would be really difficult and very time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more practical approach would be to fill the gouges to create a smooth outer surface on the pig.  If the filler is translucent or a color that contrasts with the stone, the hair lines will be visible, but the surface will look polished.  A material like a hard wax might be good (paraffin or even colored wax pencils used for filling wood scratches).  Apply it as you would if you were filling wood scratches.  You can warm the soapstone with a heat gun on a low setting to melt the wax and it will self-level in the gouges.  When the pig is cold (room temperature), you can buff the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-11-30T17:53:01.587" LastActivityDate="2019-11-30T17:53:01.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7762" CreationDate="2019-12-01T19:05:00.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what your problem is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have too many ideas and cannot commit to one, I would recommend sketching out thumbnails to then decide which one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel like none of your ideas are good enough, I would recommend doing something simple to warm up. Draw the room around you or do some still life or draw a character doing something dumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel like you are forcing yourself to draw, just do something else. Play a game or go for a walk. Nobody's forcing you do draw (unless somebody is, and that's a different situation), so just chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do to prevent this situation: I keep a written list of ideas of things to draw when I got nothing else to draw. It has all my ideas from &quot;eyeball people&quot; to &quot;3pp woods backligting sunset Wirt &amp;amp; Greg.&quot; I also have a list of challenges and things to get better at. But if I don't feel like doing &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; of these lists, I do something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8659" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T19:05:00.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7782" CreationDate="2019-12-04T00:49:37.177" Score="7" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been starting out with watercolours, and have been wondering what the purpose of white paint is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to make something white is to never paint on it in the first place, and other colours are lightened simply by being more dilute. When I use white after the previous layer has dried, the effect is often very weak and once the white dries it is hardly noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there ever situations or effects where white paint is useful in watercolours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8662" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:32:34.260" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:32:34.260" Title="Use of white watercolour paint" Tags="|watercolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7798" CreationDate="2019-12-04T08:51:52.023" Score="4" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/yosemite-falls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this pattern&lt;/a&gt; to make a sweater. For the gauge requirement, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;17 stitches and 31 rows = 4 inches in Seed Stitch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the schematic shows the front/back panels having a width of 20&quot; each, and the pattern calls for 98 stitches each. But that comes out to &lt;code&gt;98 / 20 * 4 = &lt;strong&gt;19.6&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/code&gt;, which isn't 17. It seems like this could mean the 17&quot; measurement is unwashed, if the fabric is supposed to shrink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the pattern also says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Seed stitch will grow when blocked. If you are concerned about the length, measure your gauge in seed stitch from a washed and blocked swatch and calculate number of rows necessary to achieve desired length after blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a rough comparison of the sleeve length in the schematic (18&quot; including cuff) with the pattern (1.5&quot; cuff + 127 rows) would give &lt;code&gt;127 / (18 - 1.5) * 4 = &lt;strong&gt;30.78&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/code&gt;, which &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; roughly the suggested gauge of 31, suggesting the fabric would be expected to neither shrink nor grow during washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gauge swatch &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; washing is roughly the recommended 17x31, but given the above discrepancies I'm concerned that the measurements in the schematic won't be accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I consider adjusting my needle size to achieve a &lt;strong&gt;washed&lt;/strong&gt; size of 17x31? Or should I expect the schematic's measurements to be accurate even though they seem to disagree with the gauge recommendation? Are there any other techniques I can use to validate the sizing before I get too far into the pattern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This will be my first serious blocked garment where the sizing actually matters, so I'm also not sure how much leeway I will have to adjust the size during blocking. If it matters, the pattern recommends 2–4&quot; positive ease.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RVCAa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RVCAa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gauge swatch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8665" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T05:02:58.560" Title="Does a gauge recommendation refer to pre- or post-washing dimensions?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-04T20:09:25.177" Score="4" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for an item I need which is a hollow hemisphere with outer diameter of ~25 mm. Ideally, I'd like them in green, but I can only find them in clear. Do these sorts of domes exist in opaque color? Would I be able to just stain the clear ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another material for this type of object that can serve the same function? I need to be able to paint onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This object will be decorated with a custom image and used to cover pieces in a board game I'm designing for my family. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMsdZs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fMsdZs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8669" LastEditorUserId="8669" LastEditDate="2019-12-04T23:50:57.970" LastActivityDate="2019-12-14T01:15:02.410" Title="Where can I find/make paintable opaque green domes?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4149" CreationDate="2019-12-04T21:25:49.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally there are 3 kinds of water color paper 1.hot-pressed watercolor paper 2.Cold-pressed watercolor paper 3. Rough water color paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot pressed is smooth paper with no bumps on it. It is a super fine paper, with grains that are plain and smooth. It is easier to paint on the hot-pressed paper because there are no bumps. Moreover, the hot-pressed paper is ideal to paint for larger and even strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cold-pressed watercolor paper is slightly grainy. It is not as smooth as the hot-pressed paper. If you are looking for a textured surface to paint on, the cold-pressed paper is perfect in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rough and cold-pressed papers are similar in a way that both of them are grainy. However, the rough paper has bigger pumps and the absorption of the watercolor is much easier on the rough watercolor paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this blog they have mentioned different kinds of water color paper:&lt;a href=&quot;https://allpaperworld.com/best-watercolor-paper-brand/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://allpaperworld.com/best-watercolor-paper-brand/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference between the hot and cold press paper is of the graininess. The hot-pressed paper is smooth. However, the cold-pressed watercolor paper has grains and bumps. The hot-pressed watercolor paper refers to a more smooth texture and finish. Whereas, the cold-pressed watercolor paper is coarse paper with a bumpy finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8671" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T21:25:49.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2019-12-05T00:02:13.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to paint them anyway, especially opaque, &lt;strong&gt;I suggest spray-painting the semi-spheres&lt;/strong&gt;. That way, you can get the exact green hue you want them to have, you can control whether you like it glossy or matte, and - dependent on your skills - can have them look really smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I suggest &lt;em&gt;sanding&lt;/em&gt; these transparent domes a little first, with very fine sandpaper (≥ ~300);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;applying a layer (or two) of the spray-paint&lt;/em&gt;. To prevent the light plastic domes from flying away when paint-brushing, tape them on something heavy (like a wooden plank) with double-sided tape;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gluing the custom images onto the surface (depending on the paper by letting them soak in the glue, so they will follow the curved shape of the domes closely); &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and finishing it off by &lt;em&gt;applying a layer of transparent (glossy or matte) varnish&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T11:22:24.030" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T11:22:24.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7776" CreationDate="2019-12-05T00:45:44.640" Score="4" ViewCount="2276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on making some chimes, which involves tying a (tuned) piece of metal to a piece of wood fairly tightly - ideally, so that there is always a gentle force pulling the chime together with the wood. For context, here are two pictures of the setup, one from the top and one from the end:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uc3XE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uc3XE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dOFKs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dOFKs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Ignore the holes in the aluminum; they are from an earlier, less successful experiment.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The string passes through the holes to the side of the tube, and loops around the tube itself on top and is tied underneath the wood. The knot needs to be tight because, if it is not, the tube can jump around when hit with a mallet (which is bad) and the vibrations of the tube can create buzzing against the wood (which is also bad). This design seems to yield really good results when I test it out while holding the strings taught prior to tying them, but it doesn't work very well when I tie the knot. (Also, since it's probably important: I've been using overhand knots to make the loops of string - it's the only knot I'm familiar with, so I would be satisfied with an answer that points towards a more appropriate knot to use, if that's the problem)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some technique I can use to ensure that a loop of string stays under tension after I tie it into a knot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="53" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T20:06:01.770" Title="How can I tie a tight knot?" Tags="|knots|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2019-12-05T01:17:47.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than use a knot, you would want to make use of a taut line hitch, sometimes called a trucker's hitch. It's a series of loops which allow you to snug the free end, while the tension causes the loops composing the hitch to lock down onto the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many variations of taut line hitches but I've found that the trucker's hitch is consistent construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A relatively well written &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Create-a-super-tight-rope-line/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructable&lt;/a&gt; covers all of the aspects of a taut line hitch, although step four shows the most relevant portion for your objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, you'd be condensing much of the length and consolidating the loops closer together. You might also be able to get away without the three loops around the free end of the cord, by tensioning the primary cord around your tube and using a simple half-hitch to secure it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three loops and length of line is more to allow adjustment and release, aspects you don't require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo below obviously courtesy of netknots.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KqaIF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KqaIF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;truckers hitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image, the &quot;tied off at end&quot; portion should be a loop into which the &quot;make a turn around&quot; portion will pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can apply sufficient force and expect it to remain secure until the line stretches. A spectra based line will have minimal stretch and although quite slippery, takes well to this type of hitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T01:17:47.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2019-12-05T07:33:44.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your other answer, from @fred_dot_u, is probably the way to go but for completeness, here are a few other ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a single overhand knot won't hold. If you combine two, make sure to combine them into a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reef_knot&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reef knot (or square knot)&lt;/a&gt; and not a granny knot, which is likely to loosen under vibration. A reef knot or even a shoelace knot is adequate here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, even by holding down the first half knot, you still can't get it tight enough, you can use a wedge on the back, or put a dowel through the back, twist it to give the desired tension, and fix it in place with a small nail. These methods allow you to adjust the tension. I suspect you need to get the tension within a reasonable range, so the damping of the ringing chime is consistent between notes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, thin steel wire can be used, twisted on the back of the workpiece. This is easy to do, and can look quite nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T07:33:44.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2019-12-05T09:38:05.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a slightly stretchy cord (nylon monofil as in your picture will do) you can pull the knot really tight so the cord is pre-stretched and use a non-slipping knot as others have described. That way as the wood gives a bit under the metal tube the line will still stay taut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were you to use a very inelastic cord (a wire) then changes as the wood dried out / as the tube bedded into the wood a little / as the cord bedded into the backboard as it went through the holes would mean the cord would become a little slack. You could compensate for that by tying the wire at he back over a chunk of something elastic (a piece of rubber for example) or by including a wedge at the back that you could tap in place to tighten the cordage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8673" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T09:38:05.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2019-12-05T10:43:14.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most natural fibres shrink as they dry, so you could try giving the cord a good soak before putting it on.  That won't work if it's going to be left out in the rain, though.&#xA;Otherwise I like the hidden wedge as suggested by Chris H.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8675" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T10:43:14.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7759" CreationDate="2019-12-05T11:28:13.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to lapidary!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase rubber burs, polishing wheels and rods from the likes of Otto Frei, Cooksongold, HarbourFreight and many other suppliers. Some come pre-charged, with the polishing medium in the rubber and you will have to charge others, such as felt wheels, bonnets or pads with compounds that have various &quot;grit&quot; or &quot;mesh&quot;, with higher numbers indicating a higher degree of polish. To achieve a high level of polish you will need to go through the grades, that is, use one grade of polish to completely remove any lines from the previous grade. Skipping grades can be done at the risk of ending up with a collection of finely polished scratches, which appears to be the effect you are looking to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polishing compounds are often proprietary, but combine an abrasive such as silicon carbide, carborundum, emery, pumice or diamond in a binding agents or matrix such as wax and oil. Different grades are often provided as different colours to distinguish which is which and so you will soon learn which colour to use next (within the same proprietary range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different materials may be used in the final polishes, such as Tin Oxide, Cerium Oxide or Diamond frequently achieve good polish on some materials, better than others. Finally, no doubt polishing is probably a science but there are different theories about what it is and achieving the ultimate polish, whilst science may underlie it, is definitely an art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8676" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T11:28:13.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2019-12-05T11:47:52.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most basic way of doing this is with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/square-lashing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;square lashing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However tightly you pull the string with a knot, it will always be slightly loose.  The key part of a lashing is the &quot;frapping turns&quot; (steps 7 and 8 in the link above) so that the string is completely locked down onto the pole and tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The string from the square lashing will tie over the resonant side of the chime though, which may cause some unwanted damping. Using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.animatedknots.com/diagonal-lashing-knot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diagonal lashing&lt;/a&gt; instead is likely to be the best solution, with the resonant tube being the front pole.  Personally I also think that lashing looks prettier, which could be a factor for a musical instrument&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.animatedknots.com/photos/lashdiagonal/lashdiagonalR15.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagonal lashing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, that picture is a bad example of how to tie off the cord after the frapping turns - you want it tied to the back pole instead of the front pole.  I'm sure you can tidy that up though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8674" LastEditorUserId="8674" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T12:01:00.447" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T12:01:00.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2019-12-05T20:06:01.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you know, the vibration of the chime is what causes the sound. Within that vibration are peaks and troughs of vibration, but there are also nodes where the vibration is barely, if at all, noticeable. If you don't tie down the chime at exactly one of these nodes, you'll attenuate your sound and cause buzzing anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of tying your chimes, think about laying them in a way that makes them act like you want without the problems you don't want. This, believe it or not, has been figured out by makers of xylophones and marimba.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a xylophones has lots of tuned steel slats that are struck by mallets, just like you want to do with chimes. They do bounce a little, but that's addressed by having a hole in one or both ends and a pin loosely in the hole preventing it from moving in an undesirable way. These slats are also resting on felt or other cloth risers at their nodes to prevent buzzing and damage from striking too hard &amp;amp; bounces. (I've left the image large so the cloth strips can be easily seen.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nckQ8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nckQ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;xylophones &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, most chimes for music are held in place by either loose cords or a rod. Granted, these are also generally vertically mounted, but it's something to think about, since you are going the opposite direction in that you want to tie them securely down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QO3Ubm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QO3Ubm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Large chimes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not recommending a product or website, but if you look at how someone else makes something similar, you'll notice that the chimes appear to not be held down at all. It would be interesting to look at this from the ends of the chimes to see if there's a cord running across the tubes, but just hidden. The supports here look like rubber to prevent buzzing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hayneedle.com/product/20inwoodstockpipedreamwindchime.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hayneedle.com/product/20inwoodstockpipedreamwindchime.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, a single chime seems to be supported and held down by the same attachment device. It's a bad pic, but the support looks like a rubber O-ring, also presumably to prevent buzzing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hayneedle.com/product/woodstockzenergywindchimesingle.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hayneedle.com/product/woodstockzenergywindchimesingle.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T20:06:01.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7766" CreationDate="2019-12-05T20:08:03.637" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, in watercolour painting, you don't get any &quot;white&quot; paint.  The techniques for watercolour painting, as you stated, is to use the underlying paper to supply the &quot;white&quot; colour, and to supply for the brightness of a colour as you use coloured washes to allow the white to show through that layer's transparency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a thing called gouache, which is a sort of opaque watercolour paint - and you can get white guache.  I've found white goache useful for adding tiny highlights such as the &quot;whites of the eyes&quot; and little stars and shines and sparkles.  It's also useful for covering up mistakes.  Plus, you can paint over the white goache with other watercolours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white paint you get in plain watercolours is mainly for making your normal watercolour washes a bit more opaque.  Watercolours are, by nature, transparent, so adding white to a colour will make them less transparent, but never opaque (unless you add gouache).  I would use white watercolour, perhaps, for example, for some leaves and foliage where you want the colour to be both paler and more opaque.  You still have to use layering though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liveabout.com/making-the-color-white-using-watercolor-paint-3976972&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page describes a bit&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; you would use white watercolour paint - there are reasons to use white paint, you know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://nicolesclasses.com/tips-painting-white-watercolor-master/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page describes how to paint&lt;/a&gt; &quot;white&quot; without using white watercolour paint - since people don't normally use white paint to paint &quot;white&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastEditorUserId="8602" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T20:29:54.573" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T20:29:54.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7709" CreationDate="2019-12-05T20:14:34.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you clean them before the paint or substance (varnish, oil paint, etc.) dries on the bristles, they will last a really long time.  I've kept both cheap and expensive brushes for over 30 years or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0027AEANE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I use this kind of brush soap&lt;/a&gt;.  If I've used an oil-based substance, I'll clean it first with mineral spirits, then use the soap.  The soap will condition the bristles and clean the particles out from between the hairs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't use laquer thinner to clean your brushes!  That stuff will eat the finish off the handles and damage the brush hairs themselves.  That being said, I've done this before and still kept the brushes (with missing finishes) for use anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old brushes that have distorted brush ends can be used for effects and for other projects where you don't need to do fine work.  I use my old, not-so-nice brushes for applying glue and varnish.  And I clean them anyway, just like I would my good brushes.  This policy keeps my good brushes good because I don't have to use them for not-so-fine applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T20:14:34.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5587" CreationDate="2019-12-06T05:26:59.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can design all of the cuts, folds, joining tabs, etc., yourself, and then use tools like what are described in the other answers to create a clean layout.  An alternative is to start with the finished shape you want, and then use software that figures out how to create it from 2D stock.  There are a number of such applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your needs are reasonably basic, there are free online template makers like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.templatemaker.nl/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Template Maker&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.  They have libraries of basic and not-so-basic shapes and objects.  You customize the design.  Here's a sample object to give you the idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eIsOM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eIsOM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;More options&quot; screen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q1ra0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q1ra0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/modelmaker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Silhouette ModelMaker&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is $50 software from the makers of the Silhouette cutting tools (it doesn't need to be used with those tools).  You design a 3D model from basic shapes.  The software figures out how to create it from a 2D pattern, including the joining tabs.  There's a good overview of it &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.silhouette101.com/archives/take-a-look-at-silhouette-modelmaker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfPmu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfPmu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/72bAo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/72bAo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To get into complex models, there is &lt;a href=&quot;https://pepakura-viewer.informer.com/3.0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pepakura Viewer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/productinfo/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pepakura Designer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.  The viewer is free; the Designer is $38.  With Pepakura Designer, the sky is the limit; you can make virtually any 3D object with as much resolution as you have time and patience to cut out and assemble.  People use it to create 3D art, cosplay props, etc.  Of course, you can also use it for simple shapes, and it's cheaper than Silhouette ModelMaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all starts with a 3D model.  There are online communities of people who create models, from relatively simple stuff to the most complex things you can imagine (just Google &quot;pepakura&quot;).  Very complex models are often created for 3D printing, and Pepakura can use the same model and make it out of paper.  Some models are free to download and some are for sale.  If you have a model that's already in Pepakura form, you just need the free viewer to print it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are starting with a 3D model computer file, Pepakura Designer figures out how to make it from 2D pieces.  It also labels everything with identifiers of what mates with what, which can be a necessity on extremely complex models.  If you can't find an existing 3D model that fits your needs, you can create the model from any of numerous applications, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.metaseq.net/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metasequoia&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sketchup.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sketchup&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://makezine.com/projects/halloween-2016-build-props-and-costume-armor-with-paper-pepakura-and-bondo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Build Props and Costume Armor with Paper, Pepakura, and Bondo&lt;/a&gt; will give you an idea of what people do with this software, and what's involved in making extremely detailed and complex models.  Here's a good &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.blackowlstudio.com/en/tutorial-how-to-use-pepakura-designer-software/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial on Pepakura Designer&lt;/a&gt; from Black Owl Studio.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-12-06T05:55:46.297" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T05:55:46.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8481" CreationDate="2019-12-06T17:12:57.413" Score="2" ViewCount="868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used CA glue to bond two parts of a model together in preparation for making a mold of it. I used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smooth-on.com/products/mold-star-20t/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smooth-On Mold Star 20T (platinum cure) silicone&lt;/a&gt;. In places where the CA glue was exposed on the outer surface of the model, the CA glue appears to have inhibited curing of the silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does cyanoacrylate glue inhibit platinum cure silicone, or specifically Mold Star 20T? Can I avoid this by using tin cure silicone, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smooth-on.com/products/oomoo-30/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smooth-On OOMOO 30&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8682" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T03:57:09.870" Title="Does Cyanoacrylate glue inhibit Mold Star silicone?" Tags="|mold-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-06T21:56:50.427" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want them to be very realistic and about the height of my head. My biggest concern is weight, I’m unsure as to what materials to use. I also want the way they are attached to be very discreet and look very natural. I need it to take carving well and be strong enough for my clumsy self not to break by accident. Possibly, and likely going to be hollow in order for minimal weight. Also what paints should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8683" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T03:54:29.730" Title="I want to make antlers for a costume, what materials should I use?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2019-12-06T22:43:12.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about some sort of wide headband.  You could construct the antlers out of some stiff wire (like fencing wire) and wrap them around into a frame.  Then you could inject spray-foam into and around the wire, trimming the excess with a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the headband would be stationary enough; you might have to make some sort of wire &quot;corona&quot; and add an under-the-neck tie strap to hold it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once made a halo for an angel costume by making a wire corona and using wire to hold up a big brass ring behind my head.  That worked pretty well.  Your antlers would be a bit heavier though, so the tie strap could work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, instead of a headband, you could make some kind of cowl that covered the head and neck and could be tied on.  That would support the antlers better, and maybe you could even attach deer ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea for the antlers could be to get some really thin, long balloons - use thin wire to shape them, then cover them with latex (don't know if spray-on latex is a thing).  Then you could pop the balloons and remove them and fill the latex antlers with cotton.  Some thick wire would hold them up and you would attach those wires to your headband or corona.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; just use &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; antlers, in fact.  I have lots of them in a box.  I get them from my friends when they go hunting.  They keep all the big racks but I can get the smaller ones from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastEditorUserId="8602" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T03:54:29.730" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T03:54:29.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2019-12-07T00:02:48.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how &quot;handy&quot; you are but I would suggest &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Papier-mâché&lt;/a&gt; over a simple wire armature. It would be lightweight, fast and inexpensive to make, require minimal tools and be very forgiving of mistakes. For a bit more durability and added texture, add a final layer of simple cheesecloth after the form has been built up. Then paint or stain for the desired effect. Any paints would do – inexpensive watercolors, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the form and how to wear them – depends on how large you want the antlers to be (e.g. moose antlers can be huge. Deer antlers smaller, etc.). Perhaps sacrifice a &quot;baseball&quot; type hat to build off of and add a &quot;chin strap&quot; to keep it from slipping off of you head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2019-12-07T00:02:48.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7791" CreationDate="2019-12-07T16:30:18.423" Score="9" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;When drawing from reference photos, and the hair is photographed, the definition of the hair is muddled. No lighting on the hair. Almost like a silhouette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fuwBO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fuwBO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lightened the image up to see if I could get some more detail, as suggested, there is significant improvement of being able to see the braids on the right side of the photograph, as well as the hair line on the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ya73z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ya73z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques could be used to portray the semblance of the image? Hatching might be a good option, or using charcoal to replicate the dark hues. I've tried a lot of techniques such as these, but not overall happy without the out come. I've come across photographs like this over the years, and still not sure how to get around replicating it, without it looking flat, and lifeless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work in progress (beginning steps):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsgtF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsgtF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work in progress (after lighting and hatching):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3uRG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P3uRG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T23:28:23.997" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T23:28:23.997" Title="Drawing detail in dark hair?" Tags="|drawing|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7789" CreationDate="2019-12-07T19:20:19.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you trying to reproduce the &quot;silhouette&quot;, or improve on it so hair detail is visible?   The detail is all from reflected light.  Hair is a shiny, textured surface.  Whatever detail you see is from light being reflected from the tiny portions of the surface that reflect more of it in your direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a photo, if there is good lighting and sufficient resolution, you can make out the texture of the individual hairs as fine bands of lighter and darker, maybe with some bright highlights, where a lot of light gets reflected toward you from a collection of spots.  With less resolution and poorer lighting, you can make out larger features, like the braids.  With poor lighting and resolution, you're left with not much more than the silhouette and faint hints of larger features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The human eye has very limited ability to differentiate small differences in brightness in dark colors and shadows.  So you can't see much detail in poorly illuminated dark hair.  The hair is all essentially the same color.  Whatever detail you see is from differences in brightness due to the amount of light reflecting differently from different areas of the hair's texture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hair is basically round, so a tiny sliver of the tiny surface of each hair will reflect more light in your direction.  With a larger feature like braids, many strands of hair are held together in the same direction, and juxtaposed with other collections of hair in a different orientation.  So the reflections are aggregated in a way that makes the pattern more visible than individual hairs in a uniform layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to draw poorly illuminated dark hair realistically, showing a lot of detail will look unnatural.  If the drawing is intended to represent the hair in &quot;normal&quot; lighting, use varying darknesses, realizing that in reality, there isn't much actual difference in brightness.  To represent well-illuminated hair, combine that with some highlights (tiny reflections of white).  Leave tiny slivers of the paper showing through, or add a few very thin, short lines of white.  Visualize where the light is supposed to be coming from to create that reflection, and make the highlight locations consistent with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-12-07T19:20:19.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7789" CreationDate="2019-12-07T23:04:20.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As fixer1234 mentioned, in your photo reference, all the hair falls in the darkest area of the spectrum of light values. &lt;strong&gt;It actually won't matter once your drawing is complete&lt;/strong&gt;: once all the light values are on a similar scale, just filling the silhouette of the hair with the darkest value you've used elsewhere in your drawing will create an effect similar to that in the photograph - the flat character won't stand out anymore since we humans are accustomed to images having a limited value range. A famous (and quite rare) art historical example of this, is Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mrwrO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mrwrO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Johannes Vermeer, Girl with a Pearl Earring, 1665&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See how the nose bridge just disappears into the cheek? Yet, it's not conspicuous at all (this is actually one of the reasons the artist David Hockney convincingly reasoned Vermeer used a &lt;em&gt;camera obscura&lt;/em&gt; to paint most of his works. But that's a different story altogether :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you do want to draw it, you first have to understand the structure of the hair.&lt;/strong&gt; For this, you can easily find reference material online. Here is an image that shows at least a little of how her braids are structured:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IiJef.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IiJef.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FKA Twigs cropped still&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hatching is a viable option, if you follow the direction of the hair as it curves around the volume of the braids. As the light source in your image is on the right, you can add slightly lighter patches on the right sides of the 'lobes', by hatching with less pressure, by leaving small gaps as you hatch so the paper shines through, or by using an (kneadable) eraser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-12-07T23:04:20.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7678" CreationDate="2019-12-08T19:32:21.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In painting, this figure is called a &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;festaiuolo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Artists of late medieval and Renaissance Europe] relied on &lt;em&gt;festiauolo&lt;/em&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;figures who attract our attention by glance or gesture, point us in the appropriate direction, and indicate how we should respond or behave&lt;/strong&gt;. The concept of the &lt;em&gt;festaiuolo&lt;/em&gt; was taken by artists from the Italian theatrical and celebratory conventions. On stage, he or she was usually a secondary character who served as an intermediary between the audience and the main action, explaining, commenting, and modeling the appropriate response. The meaning of the word itself, literally &amp;quot;feast-maker&amp;quot;, suggests the role of master or mistress of ceremonies, who would perform introductions and direct guests, and so the &lt;em&gt;festaiuolo&lt;/em&gt; functioned in a work of art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Scholarship and Christian faith: Enlarging the Conversation; Douglas Jacobsen, Rhonda Hustedt Jacobsen; 2004. p. 144&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pointing can be to something or someone inside the painting, as well as outside of it, in which case it usually is a concept, like God or Fate (&lt;a href=&quot;https://history.stackexchange.com/questions/37481/why-do-some-painted-portraits-show-the-subject-pointing&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a related thread on History.SE).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2019-12-08T20:20:03.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7730" CreationDate="2019-12-09T02:23:33.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a 2 part epoxy. Like some &quot;jb weld&quot;. They make different kinds that will stick to anything. Even some that will work underwater, others for metal, containing steel fibers. I doubt they wont have a product that will not solve your problom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8691" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T02:23:33.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7709" CreationDate="2019-12-09T02:32:47.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from cleaning them in a timely fashion. You might be using them the wrong way. If your &quot;pushing&quot; your brush, its going to wear out very fast. You want to drag your brush. Sometimes you may want to push, for the effect, but when you do, it has a negative effect on the brushes longevity. Also, after you clean your brush and you've gotten all of the paint out, drag it across a bar of soap, then reshape it, and let it dry that way. Brushes that hold their shape longer, also last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8691" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T02:32:47.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2019-12-09T02:54:44.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;stick the paper in your dryer with something heavy, like poker chips, the kind they have in vegas, not the little thin ones for home use. Or you can use racket balls or tennis balls. Use low heat or none at all if your dryer has an air dry setting, that would be best. Run it for about 5 minutes and see how its coming along, might want to go about 15. That outta add some years to it. Add some wadded up news paper to the dryer as well, for a little color transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8691" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T02:54:44.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2019-12-09T04:41:49.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to find cheap green plastic Xmas ornaments that you could cut in half. Hmmm, maybe those catnip balls that unscrew so you can refresh the catnip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8692" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T04:41:49.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2019-12-09T05:02:58.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't follow your calculations but the way I do it is to convert the gauge to stitches per inch which is 4.25 in this case. Then I divide 98 stitches by 4.25 stitches per inch to get about 23 inches. The row gauge is 7.75 rows per inch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But more importantly, the pattern is an aran type sweater which means lots of different cables and stitch patterns across the width. The designer is saying that if you get 4.25 stitches per inch in your gauge swatch in seed stitch, you'll probably get the right size garment. IIRC cables shrink the width as they build up the 3d-ness. I've seen some designers give gauge swatch knitting directions that incorporate all the stitches and directions of knitting in the garment but that is quite rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you are knitting this in wool which can stretch in blocking if you encourage it to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding that gauge swatches are always interpreted as washed and blocked sizes and they usually say so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8692" LastActivityDate="2019-12-09T05:02:58.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-09T16:36:46.380" Score="7" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here it is used on a simple and light winter hat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: is this doable by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TSMM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TSMM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sRAwB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sRAwB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;back&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8696" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:09:30.557" Title="What knitting/weave style is this?" Tags="|fabric|knitting|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7800" CreationDate="2019-12-10T08:09:30.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it doable by hand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes, every knitting pattern is doable by hand. You might need some tutorials and experience to make it look good, but it's doable by hand. The main problem with such a light product is that it uses very light yarn, thereby needing a great number of stitches, increasing the time it takes to knit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To be honest, I'm not absolutely sure. There are several stitches that create a similar pattern. By looking at the transition from pattern to cuff you can count 4 stitches that form the repeating pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best match seems to be the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.knittingstitchpatterns.com/2017/07/seersucker.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seersucker pattern&lt;/a&gt;. This one is relatively easy to do because all the stitches you need to know are knit and purl. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.studioknitsf.com/seersucker-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you can find a detailed picture of both sides of the pattern to compare it with your hat, as well as a written instruction. There are also instruction on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5z4yR9py88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very similar look is produced by a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.knittingstitchpatterns.com/2015/03/mock-honeycomb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mock honeycomb&lt;/a&gt; pattern. Have a look at a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6nb3MYGcC8&amp;amp;index=1&amp;amp;t=3s&amp;amp;list=PLRrHfb6E1EmvOwoHGl6DCTc-WqXvBPWts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video tutorial here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.knittingstitchpatterns.com/2015/09/3d-bubbles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bubble pattern&lt;/a&gt;, but with very small bubbles. The instructions here, as well as this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QySkiceyK2A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video tutorial&lt;/a&gt; work with 4 stitches, just like in your hat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note that all video tutorials demonstrate the english knitting style, where the yarn is &quot;thrown&quot; by the right hand. You can create the same pattern in continental knitting style, where the yarn is lead by the left hand.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T08:09:30.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2019-12-10T16:35:05.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling crafty you could make paper mache (papier-mâché) domes using a ping-pong ball or similar as a form. Simply mache over the ball and cut it along the middle when it dries. Voila! two small paintable domes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(fyi - paper mache is strips of paper soaked in wheat paste. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:  Use the inside of the ball to get the dome smooth on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2019-12-14T01:15:02.410" LastActivityDate="2019-12-14T01:15:02.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-10T18:27:45.893" Score="3" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a solid fused piece that would have a shape in the center. I suppose you could make the shape in the glass with a fuse step and then tact fuse a top and bottom on to it. I am worried about losing some features and having the glass collapse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to do something like this in a single step? &#xA;tube running through it &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55Esk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55Esk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T11:15:47.513" Title="How can one leave internal void cavity in fused glass piece" Tags="|glass|kiln|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7803" CreationDate="2019-12-10T21:21:35.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never tried this, so this answer will be largely speculation based on the physical properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can leave a void, but I don't think you would be able to make the void a complex or delicate shape.  There are a few ways to start with a well-defined void: engrave it into one or both mating faces of two pieces; start with three pieces and cut the shape out of the middle piece like a stencil; make the shape using a glass tube and seal the ends to trap the air, then embed the tube in a bed of glass dust and fuse the bed (this wouldn't be applicable for a 2 mm final thickness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all of these approaches, glass fuses by becoming a liquid and flowing.  The molten glass will flow in a way to minimize the surface area of the void.  It will fill thin areas first, forcing any trapped air into bubbles, so you will lose the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could embed a specific shape in fused glass by making the shape out of a material that melts at a higher temperature.  However, that wouldn't be a void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I can think of to have a void of a specific, desired shape is to not fuse the glass.  Use one of the methods, like mentioned above (e.g., engraving or stencil), to create the void, then bond the pieces together with clear adhesive that bonds glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the goal is the appearance of fused glass, another approach would be to fuse the glass.  Then engrave the shape in the back side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea that might come close to your objective.  Create the void as in the gluing approach.  Fill the void with fine dust of colored glass.  Then fuse the glass.  Colored glass dust would melt, and it might hold the shape, and at least be a contrasting, embedded shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-12-10T21:59:23.763" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T21:59:23.763" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7803" CreationDate="2019-12-10T22:00:09.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand you correctly, you just want to cut out the hollow of that shape in your glass square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just use a Dremel rotary tool with grinding bits and simply carve out the design.  I've carved glass before with a Dremel - it's slow going, but it works.  You'll need different grade bits, starting with coarse and then with finer grits, finishing with rubber polishing tips to get it super smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with the dremel, you can use whatever kind of glass square or shape you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T22:00:09.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-11T18:30:14.530" Score="4" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate the clip on my Rotring 600.  Information I found online stated that you can't remove the clip without bending or breaking it.  Is there a non-destructive way to remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8704" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T05:37:46.760" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T05:37:46.760" Title="Removing the clip on Rotring 600" Tags="|pencils|maintenance|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7806" CreationDate="2019-12-11T18:31:30.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clip can be removed by gently spinning it to loosen it a bit, then pushing it over the top of the pen. This removes it without damaging it, and it can be re-added by just pushing it back over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8704" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T18:31:30.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7617" CreationDate="2019-12-17T00:46:09.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few &lt;em&gt;general&lt;/em&gt; rules of thumb if you don't have a color chart available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you are in an art store that sells watercolor paints, they should always have a chart available for the brands they sell.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The following colors are generally staining, regardless of the manufacturer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any phthalo-* color (phthalo blue, phthalo green, etc.) Note that these are called &quot;Winsor&quot; colors in the Winsor &amp;amp; Newton brand (Winsor Blue, Winsor Green, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Alizarin Crimson, most of the Cadmiums, many of the &quot;permanents&quot; (i.e. Permanent Magenta), Prussian Blue, Hansa Yellow, Hooker’s Green, Indigo, Payne’s Gray, most of the quinacridone colors, and others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5960" LastActivityDate="2019-12-17T00:46:09.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7812" CreationDate="2019-12-19T04:01:56.577" Score="5" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a microwave oven for a lot of crafting projects (heating, curing, and drying materials).  This often needs to be very precise and controlled.  I experiment with times and power levels.  However, I run into situations like these kinds of unexpected results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I heat a material for 15 seconds at 50% power level and discover that it needs substantially more time.  I repeat the experiment, doubling the time to 30 seconds at 50%, and get exactly the same result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I heat a material for 30 seconds at 20% and discover that it needs just a tiny bit more time.  I repeat the experiment, increasing the time slightly to 35 seconds at 20%, and find that the material is overheated and destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't flaky microwave oven performance; the results are perfectly reproducible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's causing such big discrepancies from the expected results?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for clarification, a microwave oven is really the right tool for the applications I use it for.  These are generally &quot;interactive&quot; requirements to add small, controlled increments of heat.  The issue is that when power level settings are used for short durations, the results can be radically different from what is &quot;logical&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T09:00:13.007" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T04:07:13.097" Title="Precise microwave oven control" Tags="|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7811" CreationDate="2019-12-19T04:01:56.577" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only a few microwave ovens control the microwave power level on essentially a continuous basis.  That is, if you set the power level at 30%, the oven runs at 30% power output.  Most are based on turning the microwave power on at 100% for a given portion of a fixed time increment, like 30 seconds or 1 minute.  Then the microwave power shuts off for the remainder of the time increment, and the cycle repeats.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My microwave oven is based on a 30 second cycle, so the power level setting translates to 10% increments of 30 seconds.  At 50% power level, there is microwave power at 100% for 15 seconds, none for the next 15 seconds, then the cycle repeats.  If the time is set to less than the resulting power-on time, the oven stops when the time runs out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in my first example, with a 50% power level, the material gets 15 seconds of full power whether the timer is set for 15 seconds or 30 seconds.  In the second example, with a 20% power level, the material gets 6 seconds of full power at the start of the first 30 seconds, then another 5 seconds of full power before it shuts off at 35 seconds (almost double the energy despite the small time increase).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get precise amounts of microwave power using the power level setting, you need to base it on the cycle time of your oven.  You can tell what the cycle is for your oven by listening to it cycle the power on and off and check the oven's clock to see the time between &lt;strong&gt;power-on&lt;/strong&gt; cycles.  If you need brief bursts of microwave power, you may need to use a very low power level (and the process may take a long time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the power level actually works makes it not particularly useful for short-duration requirements.  For those, I typically do what Chris H suggests in the comment -- do it manually at full power to get exactly the duration needed.  The main benefit of the power level setting is when you need a lot of cycles of short duration, and doing it manually would be tedious.  Understanding the cycle action lets you ensure that the duration at full power doesn't exceed a certain number of seconds at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2019-12-19T08:53:34.530" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T08:53:34.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7811" CreationDate="2019-12-19T07:34:32.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you're heating fairly small quantities. If so another way (in addition to Fixer1234's answer) to reduce the power reaching your material is to heat something else at the same time. This could be scrap material, or it could be a cup of water (with a loose lid if you want to minimise steam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very very roughly the energy should be absorbed in proportion to the mass (I'm making some big assumptions* here, but it's somewhere to start). So if you weigh your materials, and add a cup with the same weight of water, you should effectively get about 50% power. Overall I suggest combining this with reducing the power setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've actually given up on melting chocolate in the microwave, unless it's mixed with butter, as it's more fiddly than heating it in a dish over a pan of boiling water. That may be suitable for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* One important assumption is that the microwave heats evenly. That's probably not true; most have hotspots, so position is important. Another is that water and your material absorb microwaves equally. If the material is designed to be microwaved it's probably a decent absorber, likely water based, so it will be close enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T07:34:32.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7811" CreationDate="2019-12-21T02:40:37.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/exCo4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/exCo4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Neilmed quote&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The pic from the NeilMed Instructions shows something that is important to know about microwave ovens, “Previously heated microwaves will produce much more energy.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to have an official citation for this fact. This is the disinfection process for a neti pot or neti rinse. In fact, I have experienced melting the plastic from using the microwave too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider adding rest periods during your timing experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2019-12-21T02:40:37.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7826" CreationDate="2019-12-22T18:46:01.773" Score="4" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would you describe this type of craft ball? It is about 3/4&quot; in diameter with small, thin, shiny, glimmery ribbons. It's more compact and dense than most of the fuzzy craft balls I've found online or in most store. I'm desperately trying to find more of these as unfortunately I've lost the only one I had. If you can please help provide a description for this exact type or name of craft ball as to be able to find it online for purchase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've included a picture below to hopefully help (sorry for the attached fuzz, but it's the only picture I have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any help you can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GeGnW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GeGnW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fuzzy craft ball with shiny, glimmery ribbons roughly 3/4&amp;quot; in diameter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8727" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2019-12-25T09:24:39.993" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T09:24:39.993" Title="What's the name of this specific style of craft ball?" Tags="|material-identification|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7827" CreationDate="2019-12-22T18:50:04.533" Score="9" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know whether hard water is suitable for watercolor usage or if it will cause any damage to the color when it comes to archival quality. If it does cause damage, are there suggestions for improving the use of hard water with watercolor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8550" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-12-25T12:19:25.303" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T12:28:10.493" Title="Is hard water suitable for the usage of watercolor?" Tags="|preservation|watercolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7825" CreationDate="2019-12-25T00:10:50.383" Score="4" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;Relatives gave our little daughter some stamps (I mean the little plastic things whose front has a protuding (text or image) pattern that can be used to leave the same mark on paper many times) as a gift, together with a little box labeled &quot;Color Box Pigment Ink Option Plate&quot;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we had never heard of these terms, in particular &quot;pigment ink&quot; or &quot;option plate&quot; (neither in English nor of their literal translation to our native language), we assumed it was simply a fancy brand name for what was simply a stamp-pad (which would very much make sense to give along with stamps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, upon trying it, it seems like that assumption was wrong - the &quot;pigment ink option plate&quot; appears to dissolve/crumble when a little pressure is applied, parts of it stick to the stamp (thereby making parts of the image the stamp is supposed to leave on the paper blurry or even unrecognizable), and the colour can be smeared over the paper much more easily than what I'm used to from stamp pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to find out what &quot;pigment ink&quot; actually is has only led me to inconclusive results, in particular, that it's somehow related to the ink for inkjet printers ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is this pigment ink; can it somehow be used with the stamps? Or is it maybe useful for some other kind of crafting little children (child nursery age) can do?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;: It looks basically like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/705316714/clearsnap-farbe-box-crafters-pigment?ga_order=most_relevant&amp;amp;ga_search_type=all&amp;amp;ga_view_type=gallery&amp;amp;ga_search_query=color+box+pigment+ink+option+plate&amp;amp;ref=sr_gallery-1-11&amp;amp;organic_search_click=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this product&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8733" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T01:35:04.137" Title="Can pigment ink somehow be used like a stamp-pad?" Tags="|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7824" CreationDate="2019-12-25T01:35:04.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your description and on research based on the terms you've provided, I expect that you have what users would consider an ordinary colored rubber stamp pad. Unfortunately, most of your description leads me to believe that it has deteriorated due to age or exposure to air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pad should be firm sponge feel and slightly moist. If it had dried and deteriorated, it will behave in a manner similar to an aged kitchen sponge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fragments you've described sound like &quot;chunks&quot; of the pad breaking away. As they are typically well impregnated with pigment, when you are experiencing the smearing, it is due to the higher concentration of pigment being released from the fragmenting fragment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T01:35:04.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7821" CreationDate="2019-12-25T09:09:09.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like it might have been a cat toy... I originally found it in this online shop: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catsnus.com/kitty-puff-tinsel-ball-cat-toy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.catsnus.com&lt;/a&gt;, but they're available in many shops. They even have a picture of a comparison of a regular, soft crafting pompom and their dense cat pompom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/De0ZA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/De0ZA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkWWR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkWWR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T09:09:09.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7822" CreationDate="2019-12-25T12:28:10.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hard water will work fine.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, as with all impurities, the minerals it contains will have an impact on both the purity of the colours and the texture of the paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Colour purity&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard water contains relatively high levels of calcium and magnesium, known for causing buildups of limescale: as the carbonates are deposited, they leave an insoluble off-white residue. This residue can have an impact on the colours and transparency of watercolours (and water-soluble oil paints), with slight variations between different pigments, I presume.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In most cases, however, I &lt;em&gt;presume&lt;/em&gt; the impact is indiscernible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Granulation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harder water will increase the granulation of pigments in water colour, which may or may not be a desired effect.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://leeangold.com/2017/04/26/effects-of-water-hardness-on-watercolour-paints/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This blog post&lt;/a&gt; recounts the experience of using a paint described to be non-granulating which resolutely would not have behave this way, and it turned out this was caused by the use of hard water. The accompanying picture also clearly illustrates &lt;strong&gt;the difference between using hard water or distilled water&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOQ9j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOQ9j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Comparison between watercolours used with hard water and with distilled water&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(c) Lee Angold&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alternatives&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since hard water is hard to soften, using a different source of water is the easier option.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As &lt;em&gt;fixer1234&lt;/em&gt; mentioned in the comments, the best way to prevent any deterioriative effects from using hard tap water is to &lt;strong&gt;use distilled water&lt;/strong&gt;, which is usually easy to come by, cheap enough not to risk your watercolours losing some of their vibrancy, and free of any contaminants.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1219412&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Wet Canvas thread&lt;/a&gt;, it can also prevent the watercolour from granulating altogether: if this is undesired behaviour, it is suggested to use filtered or purified water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T12:28:10.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7829" CreationDate="2019-12-25T14:22:09.330" Score="2" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new headset for Christmas and got the idea to create a holder for it. I was thinking of a bust, on which I can put my headset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sculpted the bust in the 3D program Blender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zh5E2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zh5E2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there are a few questions open for me, because I never sculpted in real life before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I create this cheaply, and without requiring experience?&#xA;What materials could I use? What would be a proper workflow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance, Marc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8734" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2019-12-25T20:29:02.637" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T20:29:02.637" Title="Create a head bust (maybe plaster or paper mache)" Tags="|material-selection|medium-selection|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7828" CreationDate="2019-12-25T15:12:57.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decide which media you desire to use. A good choice for a beginner would be the inexpensive medium of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Papier-mâché&lt;/a&gt;, a composite material of paper pulp and binder. One can use newspaper, shredded office paper, cardboard, just about anything cellulose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the link suggests, you can create using the strip method, but for your sculpture, you'd want an armature (structure) on which to base the primary form. Additionally, it's advantageous to use chopped pulp to build up the design shape before applying the strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of molding clay over an inverted funnel. The funnel reduces the amount you have to &quot;fill&quot; while providing a basic shape. The chopped pulp would be the clay that shapes the curves and bulges of the head, while strips of paper provide a closure of the more coarse pulp, allowing for a smooth finish overal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's typical that a sophisticated creation will have a sealing coating of paint, glaze or similar, along with painted features not visible in your Blender creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confident you can find many videos regarding this type of sculpting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PonX8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PonX8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;paper mache dog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is what I consider to be the least expensive option. One could certainly create the head with modeling clay that does not harden, or use a polymer clay that can be carefully baked to be permanently hard. Neither of these would be inexpensive, but the results could be more detailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you already have the creation in Blender, you could also have the model 3D printed. Unless you own a large printer, it would be chopped into pieces, printed and glued together. 3D printing services exist which will create this plastic model, but for a substantial cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our makerspace promotes sharing of services of this sort. I have in the past taken another member's creation, chopped it into six pieces (in Meshmixer) and printed the individual parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the model is printed, it can be sanded and painted and used as-is. It could also be used as the primary for a silicone mold, which would allow you to resin-cast multiple copies if so desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2019-12-25T15:12:57.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2019-12-28T00:57:41.907" Score="3" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to pull off glass magic. I am trying to take fine glass frit (System 96) and turn it into thin ~1-2mm plates without bubbles. I have been reading about the 6mm rule and how the glass will move to accomedate the surface tension. Since I am going for thinner plates my guess is it will run to the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to prevent this some how. Are there techniques to force the glass to stay in the thin plate? My best guess would be to put a top on the mold that restricts the flow of the frit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would welcome any assistance in this matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T03:53:46.650" Title="Overcoming the 6mm rule in glass fusion" Tags="|glass|kiln|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2019-12-28T05:40:36.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The results may depend a lot on luck, practice, and trial and error.  You might need access to a machine shop to prepare whatever will serve as the &quot;mold&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't count on using a process that requires trimming after the glass is cool.  The glass can build high internal stress as it cools, and it may have a tendency to shatter if you try to trim it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To some degree, you can work molten glass at a workbench; press it flat, etc.  But your goal is to get it thinner than it wants to be on its own, which means flattening or molding it, and keeping it that way until it cools.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinner it is, the faster it loses heat through the surface.  You won't be able to put a blob of molten glass on a room temperature metal surface, and press it with another room temperature piece of metal down to 1 or 2 mm thickness.  It will lose fluidity or break before it gets there.  If you want to press molten glass to your thickness outside the kiln, you would need some high temperature insulating material as the mold.  The &quot;practical&quot; approach is to heat the mold along with the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to deal with the air between the frit particles.  As the glass melts, the air needs a place to go or it will be trapped in the glass.  So you probably can't start with the frit already contained top and bottom.  That suggests melting the frit, then flattening it to the desired thickness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So everything would go into the kiln.  When the glass is melted, the top of the mold would be moved and pressed into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of a couple of possible methods using this approach:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create a thin irregular shape, whatever that turns out to be.  You might be able to do that with two large, polished metal plates (&quot;large&quot; being something larger than the finished object).  The top plate would need to have some weight to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mound the glass frit on the bottom plate, and have spacers of the desired glass thickness in the corners.  You might want some external guides to keep the top plate aligned once in place.  After the glass melts, move the top plate into place on the glass, and press it down to the spacers.  Maybe leave the assembly at full heat for a bit before starting the cool down process.  Whatever &quot;organic&quot; shape the glass ends up is the result. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Contain the shape in a polished metal mold with a heavy top plate that fits tightly within the sides when cool (when it's hot, the expansion will leave a gap for air to escape when you insert the top).  Play with the amount of material to determine the thickness.  The process would be similar to the first case, but the mold would control the shape when the glass is flattened to a uniform thickness by the top.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you would need this to be somewhat of a hybrid of the two methods.  The bottom portion of the mold may need to be a bottom plate with removable sides. This would be not just to get the glass out.  A metal mold would contract more than the glass when it cools, which would mean that the mold would become smaller than the material it contains (see where I'm going here?).  Unless the mold is a TARDIS (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TARDIS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bigger inside than outside&lt;/a&gt;), I'm not sure the glass would survive the necessary change in shape to convert cross section to height.  The process might require flattening the molten glass inside the mold, then removing the sides of the mold and using some form of spacer to maintain the height of the top.  Hopefully, the glass would maintain its shape from the mold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps an &quot;easier&quot; way to accomplish this would be to start with the first approach, where you set the height between the top and bottom plates.  Once the top is in place on the molten glass, use adjustable sides (which will be a known thickness), to push the molten glass into the desired outline, then remove the sides.   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never done this, and don't know if, or how well, it would work.  But the processes at least deal with the obvious issues, and provide a starting point for experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2019-12-28T05:40:36.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1918" CreationDate="2019-12-28T23:15:28.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might try a 'faux' joint... Copper tape of an appropriate width over the cracks, solder over the tape. If you do it on both sides it'll be impossible to tell that it's not an actual joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2019-12-28T23:15:28.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7837" CreationDate="2020-01-02T16:54:48.470" Score="1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found my grandmother's brooch.  She is dead now, so I can’t ask her about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody determine what kind of jewelry this is?  I'm also curious about whether this type of jewelry had or has value of significance, if someone happens to know (yes, maybe it’s cheap, it doesn’t matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already tried to find it in Google pictures search, got 0 common results.  My grandmom lived in USSR, Italy and France; maybe this information can help somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zljoQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zljoQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8749" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T18:53:36.990" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T03:36:33.533" Title="Determine kind of jewelry" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7835" CreationDate="2020-01-02T20:30:31.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have very little expertise in jewelry, but can offer some observations and guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brooch appears to be handmade costume jewelry (i.e., decorative but not containing elements of significant value like gem stones or a lot of precious metals).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The colored cabochons appear glued on; stones of any value would typically be mounted in a secure setting.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The metal looks like it may be silver.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;High end&quot; jewelry tends to have a symmetry and/or regularity, and very fine &quot;fit and finish&quot;.  It usually has a certain design &quot;delicacy&quot;.  This piece is the opposite in all of those respects.  It's the kind of item created by an artisan with some technical skill, but probably little training in, or appreciation of, &quot;art&quot;.  They make individual pieces that are not what anyone would call &quot;gorgeous&quot;, but are more kind of interesting &lt;strong&gt;because&lt;/strong&gt; they break the traditional rules and are unusual, and a little &quot;unrefined&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks like it was made by a crafter rather than a jeweler.  Also, it wouldn't need to be made from scratch; it is made from components that a crafter could purchase and assemble with basic, inexpensive tools.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've encountered jewelry of this general nature in places like craft fairs and small shops that sell handcrafted items.  My guess would be that your grandmother came across this in such a place and thought it was cool.  It might even be the brooch equivalent of a charm bracelet, where your grandmother picked the component charms that represented something personal.  Or perhaps she knew somebody who crafted these kinds of items who made it for her, so it had special meaning or sentimental value to her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T00:48:57.070" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T00:48:57.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7835" CreationDate="2020-01-02T21:40:13.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some more observations that didn't fit into a comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stones are certainly no precious stones. The color indicates glass stones. If you're willing, you could try scratching the surface in an unobtrusive place like the edge where they're connected to the metal. If you can chip or scratch them with a nail or other sharp object, they are glass stones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shade of the metal could indicate silver, but the dark and consistent shadows in all the recesses could mean it's a non-precious metal that was dipped into a color wash to make it look like silver. You can clearly see the color in the areas of the leftmost cross.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All silver (or gold) objects should have a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hallmark&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hallmark&lt;/a&gt;&quot; at the backside, which is a special punch denoting the content of precious metals. If there is no hallmark anywhere on the piece, it is not silver or any precious metal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this were a high value artisan work, these hallmarks would be on each of the pendants as well. There would also be special hallmarks indicating the artist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of english silver hallmarks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1djpN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1djpN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jewelry hallmarks&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things considered it doesn't give the impression of having any material value. Far more interesting would be the symbolic value, but unfortunately I cannot help you with that. It could be that each of the pendants has a certain meaning that, combined with the other symbols and the place where it was made, could tell a story, commemorate an event, show the association with a certain society or symbolize wishes for the bearer's life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T21:40:13.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-04T08:08:01.483" Score="4" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strange problem/query, but my Singer 3223 has decided to sew a small(ish) zig-zag style pattern--even when the stitch dial is set to the straight stitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, the stitches in the zig zag are uniform distance from each other and consistent, they are just obviously zigzagging and not straight. I have tried adjusting tension, re-threading machine, all of that, but the problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what could be causing this, and if so, is it something that can be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8756" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T23:31:10.043" Title="What could be causing my sewing machine (Singer 3223) to be sewing zig zag rather than straight?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7845" CreationDate="2020-01-04T20:30:56.520" Score="3" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to cover one wall in my apartment with something that looks like weathered/distressed wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dinTn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dinTn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example showing wooden planks with weathered paint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wall is 13 feet wide and 9 feet tall. It's currently just textured and painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My project has a few limitations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm on a limited budget. Like really limited.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since I'm in an apartment, I don't want to attach anything to the wall that isn't easy to remove without damaging the wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd rather not paint the whole wall and have to paint over it when we move out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started playing around with ideas this morning. My first cheap idea was to find images of distressed wood online, and print them on normal white paper. Then I cut out the individual &quot;boards&quot; and taped them to the wall. It looks good enough! (And it's a lot cheaper than buying wallpaper, which I wouldn't want to glue to the wall anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is how to attach each &quot;board&quot; (rectangle of paper). If I use tape, it will peel the paint off the wall when I remove it.  (I know this because I've tried!) If I use push pins, well, that's a lot of pins to push in, and the pin heads will be visible on each &quot;board&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd thought about attaching the printed &quot;boards&quot; to a bed sheet and hanging the sheet, but it would probably droop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your crafty ideas!  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8757" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T22:04:25.343" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T06:00:50.603" Title="How can I make my wall look like weathered wood?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7838" CreationDate="2020-01-04T23:31:10.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the fabric and needle match. Are you using knit fabric with a knit needle? Are you using woven fabric with a sharp needle for wovens? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the manual: &lt;a href=&quot;https://res.cloudinary.com/singer-sewing/image/upload/v1572776978/Singer-Website-Library/Manuals/Products_manuals/SINGER_3223_and_3229_Sewing_Machine_xresjx.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://res.cloudinary.com/singer-sewing/image/upload/v1572776978/Singer-Website-Library/Manuals/Products_manuals/SINGER_3223_and_3229_Sewing_Machine_xresjx.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the issue is more like “loose stitches” the needle/fabric/thread combination can be the issue. &#xA;Have you checked the needle size with the type of fabric? &#xA;Otherwise, hopefully it’s still under warranty and you can get a replacement or have it adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T23:31:10.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7839" CreationDate="2020-01-05T07:20:25.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a good looking result you probably need a solid foundation that can stand upright or lean against your wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The - in my opinion - best foundation would be a sturdy net like chicken wire or a literal net stretched in a simple wooden frame. You could probably use a bed sheet as well. The frame keeps everything straight but the material still allows air to permeate, minimizing the risk of mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, you could use a piece of drywall, real wood (maybe scavenged from old furniture) or similar to lean against the wall. &lt;strong&gt;You should ensure air flow behind the board to avoid mold&lt;/strong&gt;, especially if you want to decorate an outer wall. Glue spacers in all corners of the board to lift it at least 1 inch / 3 - 4 cm from the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T18:57:41.653" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T18:57:41.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7831" CreationDate="2020-01-06T10:42:34.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple way to keep the form thin is to under fire it. If you fire to less than a full fuse the tension won’t pull the glass up to the 6mm height. If you have fine fruit or powder you can use a binder to make a paste before forming and get quite a bit of control (see pate de verre). This will leave some texture that you may not find desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To create a fully fused but thin plate I’d do this in two firings: one to create a solid blank out of the frit and another to squeeze it flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first firing should be straight forward: I’d do the math to see how large a sheet I’d get at 7mm with the weight of frit I wanted to use, Dam off a square that size, then pile in the frit and full fuse. I’d probably use a sheet of clear as a base rather than using all frit, but it depends on your specific design goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second firing use the “kiln pressed glass” technique to flatten out the blank. Put your blank in the middle of the kiln, put 1-2mm fiber spacers around the edges, and put a kiln-washed shelf on top of the blank. Weight that shelf with fire brick. Fire to a full fuse with enough of a hold (probably several hours) for the shelf to squish the blank flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a tutorial on the kiln pressed glass technique at &lt;a href=&quot;https://fusedglass.org/learn/project-tutorials/kiln_pressed_glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://fusedglass.org/learn/project-tutorials/kiln_pressed_glass&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8761" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T10:42:34.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7803" CreationDate="2020-01-06T11:15:47.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fully encapsulated void in thin glass is difficult to impossible to do hot in a kiln. A carved out indentation open on one side is trivial. You could the encapsulate it by cold-fusing (i.e. gluing) another sheet of glass to the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a design such as you show I’d kiln carve it by cutting the design out of ceramic fiber paper, placing a double sheet of glass over the fiber paper in the kiln, and firing to a full fuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to tack fuse a cover into this will have problems because the tack fuse temp is high enough that the glass will move and distort the carved pattern, and because trapping air in the pattern is likely to cause bubbles. You can avoid these problems by filling the pattern with enamel or powdered glass to form a sold block. Either way will end up thicker than the your 2mm final size by default, but you could create a blank for pressing this way. The pressing will likely distort the image some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bullseye has a TipSheet on kiln carving at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/tipsheet-1-kilncarving.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/tipsheet-1-kilncarving.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option (similar to previous suggestions of engraving or acid etchjng) would be to sand-blast the pattern. It really depends on the effect you’re looking for and the tools you have available. You could get your single layer look by sandblasting, filling the sandblasted cavity with a low fire enamel and then firing to a temp that’s high enough for the enamel to mature but low enough that the glass doesn’t deform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8761" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T11:15:47.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7839" CreationDate="2020-01-06T18:56:36.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got a good start to a solid approach to creating something effective and inexpensive; what you need now is a decent and cheap way to finish the job. I would recommend the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some cheap poster board/tagboard from a department or crafting store. This will create the foundation for your wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Optional) Also pick up some matte brush-on Mod Podge or similar sealer and a cheapish hardware-department grade brush to seal down the edges and add some more realistic texture to your &quot;wood.&quot; (If your ink/toner is not water-resistant or waterproof, pick up a spray sealer to fix it in place before using the liquid sealer as well.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some appropriate adhesives; Scotch, Duck, or Frog-branded painter's tape (blue or yellow in color, not the off-white/tan kind), preferably in a &quot;delicate surface&quot; or &quot;low adhesion&quot; variety, or 3M Command poster strips. These materials are designed to release cleanly from painted surfaces without damage when used properly; avoid off-brand or store-brand colored painter's tapes, as they frequently use a glue more similar to the cheap off-white masking tape that can and does damage painted surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick your printed pages to the poster board with whatever method you prefer; spray glue or glue stick applied sparingly will give you good results on the display surface. If desired, seal the surface using your sealers; feel free to leave brush strokes behind, as they'll add a touch of dimensionality to your faux wood as well as sealing the edges in place. You can either go all the way to the edge of the boards, or add an overlap that will be covered when you mount them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the painter's tape (rolled and stuck behind the poster board, or along corners/edges covered by overlap if you chose this method), or the Command strips (follow package instructions) to mount your poster board pieces to your wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these elements are inexpensive, particularly compared to options like fully painting and repainting or using wallpaper, and should give you an end product that both looks decent and is easily removed when you move out or want a change of pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T18:56:36.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-06T23:22:25.727" Score="1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to cast a ring using lost wax casting. I know that with my current setup I can cast pure silver, but I got to thinking: why silver?  Why not, say, glass? So I am wondering what unusual materials I can cast a ring of, with about as much ease as silver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8763" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-01-07T12:18:00.303" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T12:18:00.303" Title="What materials can be lost wax cast easily?" Tags="|casting|wax|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7846" CreationDate="2020-01-07T02:03:56.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends: What is your mold material ? I expect any type of glass  would fuse to any ceramic mold materials I am familiar with ( mostly alumina). And many glasses get soft and bendable at 1500 F , but that is nowhere  near liquid which will be 2200+ F.  How hot can you get your melting furnace? High alloy stainless ( 310 = 25 Cr : 20 Ni) melts &quot;low&quot; and has excellent fluidity. Vitalium is relatively unusual but common ( cobalt # 21 , Co + Cr) ; is used for silver colored dental applications and jet engine compressor blades. Maybe start with tin ( AKA pewter) very low melting ( roughly 600 F), good corrosion resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T02:03:56.243" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7850" CreationDate="2020-01-08T06:08:17.837" Score="6" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m following a pattern for an infinity scarf and it’s knit in the round. I can’t make sense of the cast-on portion of the pattern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cast-on and Setup rounds:&#xA;“CO 136 (4 repeats), CO 170 stitches (5 repeats)”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then goes on to say “cast-on and join, then work bottom border...”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the “repeats” mean? How many stitches should I have total? I haven’t seen a pattern written like this before and google didn’t help. Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T12:43:53.723" Title="Knitting pattern in the round" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-08T08:48:40.160" Score="2" ViewCount="3064" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a hard, heavy, moldable material (like plaster or cement) that is also food-safe? I’m looking for something to make bowls and cups without kiln firing like I would have to with clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8124" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2022-11-22T11:55:41.073" LastActivityDate="2022-11-22T11:55:41.073" Title="Food-Safe Plaster-Like Material" Tags="|material-selection|plaster|mold-making|food-safe|pottery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7848" CreationDate="2020-01-08T12:43:53.723" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, the instruction offers 2 different sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast on 136 stitches if you want the pattern to repeat 4 times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast on 170 stitches if you want the pattern to repeat 5 times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pattern itself has 34 stitches.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;34 x 4 = 136&lt;br&gt;&#xA;34 x 5 = 170&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the instruction says &quot;cast-on and join, then work bottom border...&quot; it means &quot;Choose one of the given sizes and cast on the corresponding number of stitches, then join and work bottom border...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T12:43:53.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7849" CreationDate="2020-01-08T12:57:57.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Food safe, moldable materials are rare in general. The closest thing that comes to my mind is a kind of &amp;quot;organic plastic&amp;quot; made from milk, but it looked hard to work with and I don't know &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; food safe that really is on the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take for example a simple porcelain dish: the porcelain itself is porous and would stain with food residue. It's the glaze that makes it food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest using whatever clay is best suited for the style of bowls you want to create, then applying a food safe varnish or lacquer in several coats to seal the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2022-11-22T08:43:30.880" LastActivityDate="2022-11-22T08:43:30.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-09T23:08:42.597" Score="3" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a tradition in backyard chicken keeping of constructing chicken feeders using PVC pipe. (See:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Chicken-Feeder/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Chicken-Feeder/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Chicken-Feeder-with-Meter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Chicken-Feeder-with-Meter/&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the key components of such feeding systems is a &quot;135 degree tee&quot; (aka &quot;Tee&quot;, see image below or in links above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've used the system for years. It works well. But you do get some pellet wastage. i.e. pellets sitting in section 1 of the Tee which just sit there and never get eaten. Nothing bad happens to them, but it just seems a waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve been wondering if there was some kind of resin, plaster or some other material known to the arts and crafts community that could be used to fill the space at the bottom of the tee. Perhaps overthinking it, I was imagining a two stage pour. First stage (area 1). Simple fill. Then once cured, fix the tee on an angle and do a second pour to fill area 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the material used would be relatively inexpensive and once cured would stay in place, be very occasionally washable and be &quot;food safe&quot; * for chickens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whilst bearing in mind that they are already being fed from a PVC pipe. However, I do wonder if for that reason, we shouldn’t use plaster or cement, or if doing so, maybe covering it with a resin, sealant or lacquer later? (in which case, what would you recommend?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd value your thoughts. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ae4Ym.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ae4Ym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8772" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-01-10T07:58:18.580" LastActivityDate="2020-01-10T07:58:18.580" Title="How best to fill the bottom of a PVC Tee with resin, plaster or some other material?" Tags="|material-selection|food-safe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7853" CreationDate="2020-01-09T23:40:47.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Operating with a two stage fill is a good start. Consider also that the dead space at the bottom need not be anything special, generally speaking. Cut cardboard, stuffed newspaper, just about anything at hand. Create your 1 and 2 shapes all in one step or in pieces, as you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once in place, seal the top surfaces of 1 and 2 with a flat component, perhaps another piece of custom fit cardboard or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This now forms the desired surface onto which you can pour food safe resin available at craft stores and hobby shops and online resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last layers are to reduce the amount of leakage into the mass below as well as to reduce the amount required. Even some modeling clay to seal the edges on the inner pipe may be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The food safe resin provides for safe pellet access. You can pour in multiple passes and angle changes to get the thickness you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T23:40:47.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-11T05:37:27.417" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to create a foam holder for my stuff to be placed in a briefcase kind of like this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yr6bm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yr6bm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shaped of the object is fairly complex with lots of curves, and simply cutting a straight through hole is not a snug fit. Since i have access to &#xA;vacuum forming machine, i can easily create a negative of my object. But i am having a hard time finding guides for casting foam&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8777" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T06:48:21.837" Title="Casting foam inlay for briefcases" Tags="|casting|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7855" CreationDate="2020-01-11T18:16:40.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting foam inlays isn't all that different from creating a silicone mold, except the mold is mostly pressure-sealed; the foam creates a lot of pressure, so the mold needs to be strong enough to handle it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foam is related to Gorilla Glue, so it takes meticulous prep and plenty of mold release everywhere if you want to be able to take the mold apart and remove your insert.  It has short working time, so everything must be ready to go once you start, and you don't have much time for cleanup.  If you've never done a large, complex casting, this would not be a good starting project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creating the foam inlay is similar to making a mold of what will be the cavities.  If you want complex cavities, you'll need to make complex forms.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacuum-forming a positive cavity shell will create an oversized (loose-fitting) form, unless you vacuum-form an undersized pattern.  Vacuum-forming the actual items may work if the cavities are deep enough, especially if you cover everything with a foam top sheet inside the briefcase.  The foam builds enough pressure to potentially break the mold shell, so a positive vacuum-formed cavity mold will need to be backfilled with something solid, like plaster, to avoid it being crushed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, you could use the vacuum-formed shell as a negative to cast a solid replica of the items, then use the replica for the cavities in the inlay.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good tutorial video showing details of a similar project (making a foam inlay for a drawer for camera equipment): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYP-l4VwKF0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYP-l4VwKF0&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of application is typically done with foam sheets, though.  It's a lot cleaner and easier.  Rather than starting with a thick sheet of foam, it's usually done with layers.  Here's a video of a guy making a tool drawer insert from foam sheets from a craft store: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKtUvpUCyc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKtUvpUCyc&lt;/a&gt;.  In this case, he did it with a cutout in a single layer of the desired depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a product called Kaisen Foam that's designed for this application.  It's a number of layers of polyethylene foam tacked together.  You cut out the outline and peel away the waste one layer at a time.  For irregular parts, the next layer can be removed only where additional depth is needed.  It's stiff enough that you can cut it on a bevel.  Here are a couple of videos for similar projects: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwe0QEvG1ew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwe0QEvG1ew&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4sjbtSw5m8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4sjbtSw5m8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-01-11T19:23:05.857" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T19:23:05.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7835" CreationDate="2020-01-12T03:36:33.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cherry amber and chrysoprase.  Common in those areas for use of in costume jewelry &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8780" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T03:36:33.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-12T13:04:55.153" Score="2" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to know how to draw a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snub_dodecahedron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;snub dodecahedron&lt;/a&gt; using just a pencil, compass, marked ruler and calculator (using the calculator to calculate some trigonometric functions, and to measure distances with a ruler), like in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dearingdraws.com/how-to-draw-dodecahedron-platonic-solids/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already know how to draw a dodecahedron, an icosahedron, a cube, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am skilful with the compass and the ruler, but I can't find any instructions on drawing this solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8781" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-30T12:33:21.177" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T12:33:21.177" Title="How to draw a snub dodecahedron?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3254" CreationDate="2020-01-14T15:08:01.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternate to paying someone to do the cutting for you, look for a local &lt;strong&gt;Maker Space&lt;/strong&gt;. These places often have laser cutters available for use (and can teach you how to use them), for a typically nominal monthly membership fee. You'd be able to learn how to prepare your files and execute the cutting yourself, as well as have the ability to do additional similar projects or repeat this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, check your &lt;strong&gt;local library system&lt;/strong&gt;. As maker spaces and similar technology has gained in popularity, many libraries have begun to add small maker space-type facilities within their systems. Again, there may be a nominal fee for use of the equipment here, but they could also teach you how to use the equipment and use of the laser cutting equipment may be free of charge as none of their own materials are consumed in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T15:08:01.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3254" CreationDate="2020-01-14T22:44:37.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple and effective way to do this is to use aptly named &lt;strong&gt;transfer paper&lt;/strong&gt;. That is paper that has one side covered in graphite or other soft material so that when you press down on the &quot;top&quot; side it leaves a mark on the surface below it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you would lay the transfer paper, graphite side down, on your plywood sheet. Then attach your schematic print above the transfer paper. With this set up, as you trace the lines of the schematic it will leave said lines on the plywood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about smudging, you could then spray fix the resulting pattern after removing the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would by far be the most affordable, most direct way to do what you are after. Attaching just the schematic print to the plywood would invariably result in the paper losing alignment once you start cutting (and gluing it to prevent that would be a real headache when you wanted to get back to just the plywood surface.) It requires no expensive laser equipment or messy solvents and the transfer paper is easily sourced in many sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2020-01-16T15:16:22.280" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T15:16:22.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7864" CreationDate="2020-01-15T13:00:28.450" Score="5" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner knitter. I have a one pair of knitting needles, which are 4.5mm but seem quite short (30cm or less ish? I cannot see a printed measurement for length on them only the diameter). I went to my local craft shop, and they had a great range of needles of all diameters and lengths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a new project I need a pair of 4mm however - so what length should they be? Is longer better and just use less of the needle, or should I get two sets of certain diameters so that I can work small and larger projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8792" LastEditorUserId="8792" LastEditDate="2020-01-15T14:39:49.220" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T18:27:16.843" Title="What size / length needles for beginner knitting?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7863" CreationDate="2020-01-15T18:27:16.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you are knitting, but you probably need needles that are 60 or 80 cm (24 or 32 inches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most commonly used sizes for circular knitting needles are 40, 60, and 80 cm (16, 24, or 32 inches), as measured from tip to tip.  If you buy needles in those lengths, it is likely that you will be able to re-use them for other projects in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60cm and 80cm are very versatile (and commonly used) lengths for circular knitting needles, as they allow you to knit comfortably, both flat and in the round.  For knitting flat, these lengths are ideal because they are a manageable length that is not likely to tangle.  These sizes will also accommodate larger objects in the round (like sweaters), or you can use the magic loop method to knit smaller objects in the round (like hats).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8793" LastActivityDate="2020-01-15T18:27:16.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7866" CreationDate="2020-01-16T09:04:14.367" Score="5" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I was doing knit stitch on a practice piece of knitting in a small patch, 26 stitches long. When I got to the end I'd realised I'd messed up and I had 27 stitches. The yarn I'm using is very old (my mother in law gave me it to practice with but she last used it to make my husbands baby clothes...!) and a little frayed but not too bad to use, but I couldn't see where I had gone wrong even with most of the stitches being rather clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in my infinite wisdom I un-did the last row thinking I could slip the needle back on and then go again, but this ended up with me being completely unable to get the needle back through the stitches. I tend to knit too tightly at the moment (I'm a beginner and only been doing this about 3 weeks! I tied off on the end and kept the knitting for reference but have since started a new practice patch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I slip a row off a needle like that, by accident or on purpose, how would I get it back on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8792" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T17:58:01.223" Title="How to regain a row of slipped stitches?" Tags="|knitting|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7865" CreationDate="2020-01-16T19:38:51.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have a row of slipped stitches that are too tight to fit back onto the original needle, you can pick them up on a different needle, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a much smaller knitting needle. Eg, if you knitted originally on US size 8 needles (5.0 mm), use a US size 4 (3.5 mm) or smaller needle to pick the stitches up. The smaller needle should fit easily through the tight stitches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't have other sizes of needles, look around your home and see if you have something that could substitute. It just needs to be stiff and skinny. Like a bamboo skewer for cooking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a 16&quot; circular knitting needle. If the stitches are not too tight you can use the same needle size as the original; otherwise use a smaller needle size. Circular knitting needles have a short portion that's the regular thickness of a knitting needle, then a portion of narrow cable. Once the stitches slide over the regular needle onto the cable, you get a little bit of slack because the cable is so much narrower than the needle. (The reason to use a 16&quot; circular needle is that 16&quot; circulars have a shorter portion of regular needle thickness than longer circulars.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't own a smaller size of needle, use an embroidery needle and scrap yarn. Tie something on the end of the scrap yarn to stop stitches from sliding off. (Lots of things can work for this: a large bead, a pencil, a wristwatch...)&#xA;Pass the embroidery needle through each stitch just as if it was a knitting needle. Once all the stitches are safely on the scrap yarn, you can safely transfer them to the original knitting needle. Or if they are &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; tight, transfer them to a knitting needle a size smaller than the original. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that the stitches are all on a knitting needle, them with the original size of needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: On your next project, work on not knitting so tightly. It takes some practice but it will pay off in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastEditorUserId="8690" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T17:58:01.223" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T17:58:01.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7865" CreationDate="2020-01-17T12:01:51.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative solution is to unravel another row stitch by stitch and insert the needle into the loop that was just freed of the previous stitch. I found this technique especially usefull for more complicated patterns where stitches are added or knit together or crossed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a close look at the top row: it's composed of small loops that usually sit on the needle. The right &quot;leg&quot; of a loop usually sits in front of the needle (towards you) and the left leg sits behind the needle (away from you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next row below that is composed of the same loops, but instead of sitting on the needle, they are sitting on the loops of the top row. Each individual loop of the top row is pulled through a loop of the second row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you carefully pull on the working end of the yarn, you can see how the top loop slips through the loop of the second row. Carefully insert the needle into the loop you just freed (of the formerly second row, which is now becomming the new top row). Keep the right leg of the loop in front of your needle and the left leg in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a complicated pattern where stitches are crossed or knit together, closely follow the working end of the yarn. The loop that was first freed should be picked up first, no matter where on the row it's situated. That way you recreate the order of stitches on your needle the way it was when you first knit that row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T12:01:51.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7869" CreationDate="2020-01-17T20:16:59.240" Score="1" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying for my project to create some professional looking covers for handmade books and booklets, so I recently bough an electrical plastificator / laminator machine that support both hot and cold lamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that the pouches sold for hot lamination are &lt;strong&gt;not less than 75 micron&lt;/strong&gt; per side of weight. I tried them with matte finish, they look cool but even if being tons better than 150 micron ones they are still way too thick and heavy compared to the professional products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professional laminator machines support rolls (instead of pouches) even of 28-35-40 microns with glossy, matte and soft touch finish both in cold or hot mode. I found that the rolls sold are not less than 500m or 1000m, and about 120 € each in the best case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do exists out of there any pouches or sheets both cold or hot that are matte or soft touch with less than 75 micron ? (eg: 35-40)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do exists professional 35-40 micron rolls that costs 40-50 € even shorter like 100m ? I would like to buy a cheaper one and make some tests with my laminator. Could be a caddy cardboard for feeding the laminator a good idea in order to better support sheets of plastic so thin ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to any solution that I could use for laminate both hot or cold in order to achieve professional looking glossy/matte/soft touch covers. I can't buy a 2000-3000 € laminator machine, I'm searching for DIY material or other options.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8567" LastEditorUserId="8567" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T13:31:39.163" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T00:25:14.643" Title="Laminating with pouches or plastic under 75 micron" Tags="|plastic|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7868" CreationDate="2020-01-18T03:12:04.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably won't be able to get professional-looking results with DIY lamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thermal Lamination&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For thermal lamination, the thinnest common thickness is 1.5 mil (38 microns), which a number of companies offer. USI has 1.3 mil film, also. USI once sent me a sample 9&quot;x12&quot; pouch of 1.5 mil film.  It kept curling and rolling up around the adhesive side; it was very hard to get it flat.  Film that thin is probably practical only with a roll laminator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's for a book/booklet cover created from a single folded sheet, thermal lamination would need to be done before the cover is folded.  After lamination, the cover will be hard to fold.  Also be aware that thermal lamination typically relies on a lip of lamination beyond the paper.  If it is trimmed flush with the paper, it will often delaminate with handling, or the film will pull off the top layer of the paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using thin-film pouches with a home laminator, it would be good to have a laminator with a temperature control.  Units without a temperature control will likely be calibrated for 3 mil film.  If you overheat it, the result will tend to be wavy rather than flat.  It is also important to use the cardboard carrier (which is silicone-treated so oozing adhesive doesn't bond with it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want thermal lamination, don't rule out having it done with a roll laminator.  Check locally with places like schools or print shops that might do a volume of thin-film lamination.  You may be able to get a small quantity done &quot;inexpensively&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to use a pouch laminator, it will be hard to make a one-piece cover.  A more practical approach would be to laminate separate front and back covers using standard pouches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold Lamination&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much the same issues will apply to cold lamination&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adhesive Book Cover&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy adhesive book cover film by the roll, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001GIJNVC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.  It's fairly inexpensive.  You cut off a piece the appropriate size, trim and score it, then peel off backing paper as you apply it.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Cover-a-Paperback-Book-With-Clear-Plastic-Film&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial&lt;/a&gt;.  This film is really intended as a protective cover.  If you look at the pictures in the tutorial, you'll see that the results don't look all that professional.  There's also a non-adhesive film sold in rolls for this purpose.  It's a crystal clear protective cover, but it is typically taped in place to hold it (again, not a professional look).  Libraries often prolong book life with covers like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Durable Plastic Cover&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate approach is to not try to laminate or wrap your cover, but use a durable plastic cover.  These are commonly available as either a heavy-duty clear plastic cover that becomes an outer cover, or an opaque plastic cover with a clear window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prescoring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lamination makes a sandwich of plastic film, adhesive, and paper (commercially laminated book covers are typically laminated only on the outside face), and that is thick.  When you fold it, the outside of the fold needs to stretch and/or the inside of the fold needs to compress.  The plastic film doesn't like to do either.  Paper does it by breaking some of the bonds between the fibers.  Whether you laminate the cover flat and then fold it, or apply the lamination to the finished book, the action of either opening or closing the book will break down the paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laminating flat and then prescoring the sandwich spreads the paper damage over a larger, controlled area, and the paper will survive the normal amount of opening and closing.  Prescoring the plastic and then adhering it to the finished book creates a plastic corner that needs to go somewhere when you open the book.  That will either cause faster breakdown of the paper, or delamination (failure of the adhesive or separation of layers of paper fibers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So prescoring is important for a professional-looking result, and prescoring the flat sandwich will produce the best result.  This can be done with DIY tools, but it may take some experimentation and practice to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hot vs. Cold Lamination&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get a professional-looking lamination, the film adhesive needs to bond with all of the nooks and crannies of the paper surface, which isn't smooth at a microscopic level.  Otherwise, there will be trapped air that will look cloudy, or even form visible bubbles.  Heat lamination melts the adhesive into a liquid and then pressure rollers force it into all the iregularities in the paper surface.  When the adhesive cools, it's solid and doesn't flow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold lamination adhesives don't change how they flow, or flow to the degree of liquified thermal adhesive in terms of surface irregularities.  But they can be good enough if you apply pressure as the film is being applied, especially if the paper has a very smooth surface.  Because the adhesive doesn't change how it flows, the film can &quot;creep&quot; on the surface, or delaminate at folds, over time if there are dimensional stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get good results with cold lamination, the pressure applied needs to be appropriate for the specific product.  You need either the equipment designed to work with the product, or something else that mimmicks it.  Trapped air must be squeezed out as the film is applied.  That's normally done with a roll laminator, which applies the necessary pressure across the whole width as the film is being laid down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could sort of mimmick that action manually by rolling the film so the adhesive is on the outside.  Then start at one edge of the cover and apply pressure on the film as you unroll it onto and across the cover.  If you have a pouch laminator capable of being run cold, you could run the result through that, or go over it manually with a roller.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you need at least the pressure that the adhesive is designed for to force it into the surface iregularities.  Also, once the film is down, whatever air has been trapped has nowhere to go.  So you may have limited ability to improve the result with subsequent pressure.  You may even find that there is temporary improvement, but over time the film looks cloudy due to trapped air and/or the film creeping back to its original configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thought: you might want to investigate the longevity of cold lamination.  Thermal lamination lasts &quot;forever&quot;.  Cold lamination adhesives might not have &quot;archival&quot; life, which you probably want for a book.  It may well last for years, but not, say, a decade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DIY Potential&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Books are produced commercially with laminated covers, so it can obviously be done.  That process entails commercial-grade equipment and supplies.  On a mass-produced scale, it's even inexpensive.  On a smaller scale, it isn't obscenely cost-prohibitive to do it with the proper equipment.  You've already priced the rolls of film.  Amazon has several roll laminators under $400 USD.  If you amortize the equipment over thousands of laminations, the cost per copy isn't bad.  If your requirement is for dozens or even hundreds of copies, it would be a lot cheaper to have it done commercially.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is whether you can replicate a professional-looking result without a roll laminator.  How professional is sufficiently professional?  Is the goal to share decent-looking copies with associates, or results that look commercially-produced for sale?  If it's the latter, that's theoretically possible, but it would be very time consuming and probably entail a lot of experimentation and wastage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your total requirement is a few copies and you have the time, skill, and inclination to play with it, give it a try.  The film manufacturers often have small trial amounts for the cost of shipping, or may send you a few feet for free.  If your requirement is a lot of copies, consider how much your time is worth, and how much money you're willing to spend on it.  You can put plastic on a cover easily enough.  Getting it to look like a commercial result without the proper equipment is the problem.  Roll laminators were invented to make this task practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-01-21T00:25:14.643" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T00:25:14.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7753" CreationDate="2020-01-18T08:26:44.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for great suggestions. I learned something new from each one of them and intend to use the learnings in my future projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this one, I ended up doing it my own way. I am happy to report that it worked out quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xB2UU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xB2UU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I built a simple rig (what a big word for what it actually is) - basically a shallow cardboard box tilted so one of the corners is pointed down. I manually (with the help of gravity) positioned each one of the 225 pages into the rig and aligned them with the walls of the box. No matter the page size, they all shared that position in the corner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lRFaS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lRFaS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That produced a reasonably aligned block that I chose not to cut. After clipping the block in place with giant office clips I was able to take it out and manipulate further. (I used double fan adhesive binding - with PVA and fabric - to create a surprisingly strong spine. I then made a cover and glued the two together. I am especially pleased with how the lining paper turned out!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4h3Bv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4h3Bv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8656" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T08:26:44.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7874" CreationDate="2020-01-20T22:53:55.953" Score="4" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have multiple sheets of slate measuring 8&quot;x12&quot; at 1/4&quot; thickness, and various gauges of colored wire (picked up the wire from the Beading section of a hobby store).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been scaling a map of the U.S. onto freezer paper, that once complete will be a 26&quot;x40&quot; map outlining the individual states.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to engrave the map into the slate, and then fill the channel with metal to make it more visible. In some tests, the only metal that was softer than the slate was solder wire (tin / lead, not sure of the %s) which allowed for hammering it into the channel for a good fit. With any metals I tested, they were too hard and would essentially hammer through the slate, and so I have decided to use a jewelry metal glue to inlay the wire securely. This gives me a little leniency on the depth, and width of the engraving, but I am looking to use either 18 / 20 gauge wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tested a few different Dremel bits made for engraving, but I am currently using the Dremel accessory 108 1/32&quot; Engraving bit, with the depth adjustment attachment. I have okay results, though find it difficult to keep an accurate line. Additionally, I had a lot of issues placing a sketch overtop the slate and trying to engrave through following the pattern on the paper. I held the Dremel perpendicular to the slate, and attempted to use it like a router, but it still had a tendency to walk a bit. While browsing the Dremel site, I think it looks like the '125 1/4&quot; Carving Bit' may better suit my needs, as it would have better cutting power in lateral movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be better to keep trying to leave the paper on top of the slate, or to cut out the individual states and trace them with the Dremel? While I would prefer to try and keep the depth consistent, would it be better to handle the Dremel freehand, more like a pen, than perpendicular to the slate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8811" LastEditorUserId="8811" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T23:14:59.940" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T19:51:14.050" Title="Engrave a design into slate sheets" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|wire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7873" CreationDate="2020-01-21T00:46:05.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using the rotary tool with a suitable engraving bit, you may find it easier to trace the state profiles by attaching the paper to the slate with an adhesive. Even a simple glue stick will wash off with water once the job is completed. By tracing around the shape, the lines you generate may be more consistently positioned by not being centered on the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question about handling the tool is going to be tougher to answer, as it is more dependent on your skill than on one practice being better than the other. With respect to the cutting bit used, unless it is designed to cut with the tip, the perpendicular placement may cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option you have would be to construct a caddy, a sort of &quot;pen holder&quot; to keep the tool at the best angle for engraving, providing a stable base while getting optimum cutting. A tool caddy will also enable you to accomplish a more consistent depth of cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a maker space in your area, you may also consider to visit to see if they have a laser engraver available for use. I have a CO2 laser which will do a wonderfully accurate job of engraving slate, to nearly any reasonable depth (1-2 mm typical). You may find other members of the maker space equally helpful. I personally would be happy to take on this type of project for a fellow maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directly related to the above, if you are unable to find a makerspace, consider to visit a laser related forum or two and cast about for a local laser user. If you are willing to pay shipping in both directions, your options increase. I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://rdworkslab.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RDWorksLab&lt;/a&gt; occasionally, a forum aimed at users who own lasers with the Ruida controller line, but have since put most of my time in &lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.lightburnsoftware.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LightBurn&lt;/a&gt;, a forum for that particular piece of software. SE does not have direct communications between users, but you can find my username in either location if the shipping option works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T19:51:14.050" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T19:51:14.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7878" CreationDate="2020-01-21T10:22:44.283" Score="6" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;If knitting an item which needs a button to secure something - like a button on the back of a pair of glittens, (a fingerless glove with a retractable mitten) how would you knit this into a row? Assume, say a 27 st per row, and the loop would be in the absolute middle so st 14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8792" LastEditorUserId="8792" LastEditDate="2020-01-21T11:08:02.307" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T09:59:03.010" Title="How to knit a button loop?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7877" CreationDate="2020-01-21T12:18:14.567" Score="6" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people use circular knitting needles when they are working flat, aka not working in the round. Why is that and how does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1436" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T02:11:08.560" Title="Why and how do some people use circular knitting needles when working flat / not in the round?" Tags="|tool-selection|knitting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7876" CreationDate="2020-01-21T12:18:14.567" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally only use circular knitting needles. To work flat on circular needles, you do not need to do anything special. Just turn them around when you reach the end of your row, as you would normally, never join. If you think of it as two separate needles with a string holding them together, it may be easier to imagine how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there are quite a few advantages to using just circular needles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You only need a set of circular needles rather than a set of straight needles and a set of circular needles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't lose the &quot;other needle&quot;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once your work starts getting bigger and heavier, it will rest on your lap instead of on the end of your long needle with seemingly increased weight due to the lever effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't poke the person next to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get long cables that support big items like blankets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various brand of circular knitting needles have removable cables. This allows you to move the knitting to the cables and remove or change the needles. This is especially helpful in a few small ways, for example picking up dropped stitches with a smaller needle becomes easier, but you can also store your knitting away on the cable white reusing the needles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1436" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T12:18:14.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7875" CreationDate="2020-01-21T12:48:14.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1: yarn over (small circle)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A yarn over generally works well. Do remember to reduce afterwards, so your stitch count stays the same. In your example that would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;k13, yo, k2tog, k12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knit the next row normally. Treat the yarn over as if it was a normal stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 2: double yarn over (larger circle)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a bigger buttonhole, it is possible to use a double yarn over. Remember to decrease on both sides in this case, so your stitch count remains the same. Use ssk for a left leaning decrease and k2tog for a right leaning one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;k12, ssk, yo, yo, k2tog, k11&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knit the next row normally, except the two yarn overs. You have two options for handling this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can knit one and purl the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can slip the first yarn over off the needle, so you only have one left. Then you knit that stitch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/knit-in-the-front-and-back-2116509&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;through both the front and the back&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 3: bind off and cast on (long)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can make a long buttonhole. The top two options are a bit easier and are generally sufficient, but it's good to know a long buttonhole is possible too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right side of your work facing you, you bind off a couple stitches. On the next row you cast them on again. For example (assuming flat stockinette):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Row 1 (right side): k10, bind off 7, k10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Row 2 (wrong side): p10, cast on 7, p10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use your favourite method to cast on the stitches on row 2 that works in the middle of a row, for example one of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.susannawinter.net/single-post/2018/10/26/5-Ways-to-Cast-on-in-the-Middle-of-a-Row-Tutorial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;I am not affiliated with either of the linked blogs. I simply believe they offer good explanation of the techniques. If they exist, or exist in the future, feel free to replace them with links to questions on this network instead.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T09:59:03.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-22T10:53:49.383" Score="3" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;If filling a piece of natural wood with grooves in with resin - clear or coloured - what is the best kind to use? This would need to allow for the wood to be used as a table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8792" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T14:26:13.487" Title="What kind of resin can be used to fill a gap in a piece of wood?" Tags="|material-selection|wood|woodworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2020-01-22T14:20:56.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An &lt;strong&gt;epoxy resin&lt;/strong&gt;, or polyepoxide: a resin mixed with a hardener.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This can be used both for filling in gaps in wood as well as encasing wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Epoxy can give wood a waterproof, resilient finish. In most cases, it is an ideal coating for wood projects that will be exposed to moisture or wear. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hunker.com/13418767/how-to-seal-wood-with-epoxy-resin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some epoxies are intended for use with wood, or, more specifically, wooden furniture (called '&lt;em&gt;tabletop epoxy&lt;/em&gt;', for example), and will be clearer, more UV-resistant, and less prone to forming bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether coloured or clear is a matter of taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're thinking of casting the entire piece of wood in resin, you can calculate how much you are going to need &lt;a href=&quot;https://epoxycountertopdiy.com/epoxy-resin-coverage-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (NB that's a commercial website).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T14:26:13.487" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T14:26:13.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7882" CreationDate="2020-01-22T21:16:57.297" Score="7" ViewCount="1863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to select a chain for a pendant, and one of the options is &quot;chopin&quot; chain, vs a &quot;rope&quot; chain (which looks the same to me). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference, where does this style of chain come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8815" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T22:23:10.503" Title="What is a chopin chain?" Tags="|jewelry|chain-mail|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7881" CreationDate="2020-01-22T22:23:10.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The chopin chain is a type of rope chain in which every slightly twisted link embraces two others&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVWli.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVWlim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chopin chain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gearbest.com/necklaces-pendants/pp_009278066953.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;. click to enlarge)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the thickness of the links, the character of the chain can seem a lot fuller:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etd0C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etd0Cm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chopin chain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dhgate.com/product/diy-jewelry-chopin-necklace-4-5-6mm-keel/421621270.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;. click to enlarge)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If google images is any indication, the most common type of &lt;strong&gt;rope chain&lt;/strong&gt;, for comparison is the one that, not surprisingly, has the spiralling character of a regular rope:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ikD7m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ikD7mm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rope chain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegldshop.com/products/rope-chain-4mm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;. click to enlarge)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the rope chain, every straight link embraces four others.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHfE6UaORO4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a video demonstrating the making of such a chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T22:23:10.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7889" CreationDate="2020-01-23T00:29:28.560" Score="2" ViewCount="4113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a shirt that is 95% polyester and 5% spandex. I'd like to completely whiten this shirt. How can I accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/6346/fade-color-in-fabric/6401#6401&quot;&gt;Fade color in fabric&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T12:21:14.440" Title="How can I fully bleach a polyester shirt?" Tags="|fabric|clothing|dye|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="142" CreationDate="2020-01-23T05:32:35.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please note that in Canada metric sizing is the predominant measurement used for crochet hooks; i.e. 1.00mm, 1.30mm, 3.00mm, 4.25mm, 5.00mm, 6.50mm etc.  Very rarely these days is the U.K. system used in Canada.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Certainly, it would be less confusing and more helpful if the metric system  were for crochet hooks around the world.  It is already used in many areas.&#xA;Hooks smaller than 2.00mm are made by a variety of manufacturers in full steel and steel with ergonomically made handles by a variety of manufacturers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8816" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T05:32:35.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7886" CreationDate="2020-01-23T06:09:24.200" Score="2" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a liquid lipstick that comes with a brush to apply it. It is very similar to nail polish.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The problem is that it has dried and solidified inside the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you suggest some chemicals (or some other way altogether) that can restore its characteristics and make it usable, while, most importantly, keeping it safe to use on lips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6845" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-07T19:32:56.223" LastActivityDate="2023-11-03T03:26:22.697" Title="How to restore a dried lipstick to make it usable again?" Tags="|safety|restoration|food-safe|makeup|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7885" CreationDate="2020-01-23T07:37:26.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an article on how it's made and the ingredients commonly used: &lt;a href=&quot;https://luisafanzani.com/how-to-make-a-liquid-lipstick/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://luisafanzani.com/how-to-make-a-liquid-lipstick/&lt;/a&gt;.  Getting all of the proportions right is part art, part science when starting from scratch.  If it's dried out, it may not be just the solvent that's evaporated, in which case adding solvent wouldn't get it back to the same thing.  Also, some of the ingredients may need to be incorporated in a certain sequence, so just adding solvent to the dried-out material may not yield a usable result.  I suspect, though, it is a bit like house paint in the sense that once it dries it changes, and you can't just redissolve it and use it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you could, you need a way to blend everything, which is hard enough when you start with the liquid ingredients.  The solidified material would probably need to be finely ground as a first step.  It's made with a high-shear mixer, and you may not be able to replicate the uniform consistency without it.  Trying to hand-stir one bottle's worth isn't likely to do it, especially if you just add some solvent to the bottle of solidified contents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual solvent is isododecane, which probably isn't a local, off-the-shelf item.  There are a few alternatives, but they aren't any more readily available.  You can get it online (the linked article mentions &lt;code&gt;makingcosmetics.com&lt;/code&gt; in the comments), but the ingredients are typically sold in quantities used for manufacturing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquid lipstick is designed to be long-lasting.  There are products sold for removing it.  It may seem like one of those should dissolve it, so you could just mix a small amount into the dried bottle to liquefy it again.  However, the removers that do dissolve it (as opposed to just breaking the bond with your lips), also do other things that destroy its properties.  So it probably wouldn't be usable, or at least very long-lasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bottom line, you will probably need to call the bottle a loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-01-23T07:42:48.177" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T07:42:48.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7888" CreationDate="2020-01-23T09:13:10.417" Score="4" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;When converting from US or old UK knitting needle sizes to mm, what are the conversions for these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8792" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T23:42:50.970" Title="Whats is the mm equivalent of US / old UK knitting needles?" Tags="|tool-selection|knitting|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7887" CreationDate="2020-01-23T11:37:41.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an overview of all the knitting needle sizes I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Metric    UK        US&#xA;0.5mm     24        -&#xA;0.75mm    22        -&#xA;1.0mm     20        5/0&#xA;1.25mm    18        4/0&#xA;1.5mm     17        000&#xA;1.625mm   16        -&#xA;1.75mm    15        00&#xA;2.0mm     14        0&#xA;2.25mm    13        1&#xA;2.5mm     -         1.5&#xA;2.75mm    12        2&#xA;3.0mm     11        2.5&#xA;3.25mm    10        3&#xA;3.5mm     -         4&#xA;3.75mm    9         5&#xA;4.0mm     8         6&#xA;4.5mm     7         7&#xA;5.0mm     6         8&#xA;5.5mm     5         9&#xA;6.0mm     4         10&#xA;6.5mm     3         10.5&#xA;7.0mm     2         -&#xA;7.5mm     1         -&#xA;8.0mm     0         11&#xA;9.0mm     00        13&#xA;10.0mm    000       15&#xA;12.0mm    -         17&#xA;15.0mm    -         19&#xA;20.0mm    -         35&#xA;50.0mm    -         50&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For crochet hooks, see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/142/what-is-the-conversion-for-uk-and-us-crochet-hooks-to-mm&quot;&gt;What is the conversion for UK and US crochet hooks to mm?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1436" LastEditorUserId="1436" LastEditDate="2020-01-23T16:51:59.123" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T16:51:59.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7883" CreationDate="2020-01-23T12:21:14.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bleaching works &quot;as expected&quot; for natural plant fibers (e.g. cotton). Polyester is actually a plastic, and bleaching will not have the same effect. I expect one (some?) of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no change;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some fading, potentially not uniform;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(partial) destruction of the shirt, as a result of the bleach attacking the plastics. Even worse, if there is anything natural hidden somewhere (some stitching, logos...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, I would not even try. A new white shirt must be quite easy to find, and quite cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-01-23T12:21:14.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7892" CreationDate="2020-01-23T19:50:30.010" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/p8LBr6cZPuY?t=530&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/p8LBr6cZPuY?t=530&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At roughly the timestamp above the architect uses an odd looking metal straightedge and I was wondering what it was called. I thought it was a regular architect's scale at first, but two of the fins are small. I can't make out any brand marks and have so far had no luck finding out what it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have any of you seen something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnxoH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnxoH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8818" LastEditorUserId="5870" LastEditDate="2020-01-31T14:09:20.393" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T14:09:20.393" Title="What kind of triangle / ruler is shown in this video?" Tags="|sketching|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-23T22:26:24.653" Score="3" ViewCount="2905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is brush-on Mod Podge the same as the sprayable Mod Podge? I’m using it for a doll repaint but the brush might wipe the watercolour pencil away, or smudge it.&#xA;I was thinking of sponging it on to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8819" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-01-23T22:42:26.403" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T22:57:30.320" Title="Is brush-on Mod Podge the same as the spray can variant?" Tags="|adhesives|painting|doll-reborning|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7890" CreationDate="2020-01-24T14:47:48.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s a ‘Brown + Sharpe toolmakers knife-edge #530’&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the video he was probably just referring to the second ruler he showed with the bevelled edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8820" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T14:47:48.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7891" CreationDate="2020-01-24T22:57:30.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in terms of the formula used in both versions, they are pretty much the same. The slight difference in the spray version though are to account for the spray version needing to be thin enough to spray through the atomiser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best choice of which to use for your particular application, comes down to the mediums you used to repaint the doll, its curing time and permanence, and the potential for the ingredients in each product to react with each other in a &quot;beading&quot; or &quot;repulsion&quot; manner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the paint you used on the doll water or oil based?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the paint you used have a specified &quot;curing&quot; or drying time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the final item going to be placed around infants or pets?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask that last one, is that if there is no specific concern that a baby will be putting this in it's mouth or something like that - I might recommend a light, quick spray with a clear satin finish acrylic spray lacquer first, just to set the paint, in case a layer of mod podge does make the paint colours bleed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALSO!&#xA;Do a quick stress test.&#xA;paint a spare piece of wood with the doll paint and test out if sponging it on affects the paints final look.&#xA;Good Luck!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8822" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T22:57:30.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6011" CreationDate="2020-01-25T01:44:39.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;so maybe something like that? I just used 2 pieces of bent and shaped 18 gauged wire, hammered out to make the pieces sit more flat, and then used 2 thin pieces of beading wire to anchor the 2 pieces together&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHtmy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHtmy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;so maybe something like that? I just used 2 pieces of bent and shaped 18 gauged wire, hammered out to make the pieces sit more flat, and then used 2 thin pieces of beading wire to anchor the 2 pieces together &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8822" LastActivityDate="2020-01-25T01:44:39.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2201" CreationDate="2020-01-26T20:26:45.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I swish mine around in hot water (not warm, hot). It seems to wash the paint out of the brush better. I have a paint towel also to wipe my brush on after its wet from the water because I don't like the water dripping on my painting and in my paint when I am moving on to the next color and it also helps remove any excess paint on the brush after I use the hot water. Then I will wipe it on something else, maybe my skin or scratch paper to make sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8825" LastActivityDate="2020-01-26T20:26:45.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7899" CreationDate="2020-01-27T14:21:53.347" Score="4" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm mending my (second hand) leather gloves by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sewing skills are rudimentary, but I like fixing the seams of or patching up clothes every now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I never know how to finish up a sewn seam. I usually just keep repeating the last stitch, alternating the angle a little bit, or the direction, in a random fashion (random perhaps because I reason that if it's hard for me to unravel, it must be so too for the thread itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would like to know if there's a proper way to finish sewing a seam.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rHxoD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rHxoD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leather gloves in the midst of being mended&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="1436" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T15:57:00.493" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T15:57:00.493" Title="How do I finish hand-sewing a seam?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7896" CreationDate="2020-01-27T16:43:02.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one way (as suggested by WikiHow):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1   Flip the fabric over. ...&#xA;2   Slide the needle under the nearest stitch and pull it to make a loop. ...&#xA;3   Insert the needle through the loop and pull it tightly to make a knot. ...&#xA;4   Tie the thread through another loop to double knot the stitch. ...&#xA;5   Trim the excess thread and turn your fabric over.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x5PbLKldLE0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x5PbLKldLE0&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This video offers some alternatives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8820" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T16:43:02.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7896" CreationDate="2020-01-28T00:36:43.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I would do at this point with your gloves, is to take the needle and slide it under that last stitch (I took a close look at your pic) leaving a loop behind, then take the needle and slide through that loop to create a knot, you may need to do this twice. Then, I usually push the needle into the material and leave extra thread inside the work, cutting what is super extra or bothersome.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3h3Kv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3h3Kv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;slide through stitch and through loop pull to knot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Create the knot&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJvfQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJvfQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;knot close up sometimes twice&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Hide the extra&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qG2Tx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qG2Tx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sink the extra thread into the material &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These stitches shown here are just so I can show a sample, my stitch work is typically better. Though when I darn, I let it get messy. LOL&#xA;happy mending sustainability lovers!&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T00:36:43.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T02:39:33.460" Score="0" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am almost new to drawing. I hadn't attempted to draw anything for over 20 years, then stumbled on a copy of &quot;Drawing from the Right Side of the Brain&quot; and decided to try. I got better fairly quickly and after completing the book I tried to continue improving through YouTube lessons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my struggle is that I didn't find any online resources, either free or paid, that offers a comprehensive long term learning curve. I find neat tricks and techniques here and there, but often either realize halfway through that the author of the tutorial assumed knowledge I don't have, or try to cover the very basic skills I already saw 10 times elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find lot of options for in person art classes in my region either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what would be the seriously good options to learn drawing online on the long run? I don't feel like randomly picking the next skill I think I guess to work is leading me anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work with mainly with charcoal, and also a bit with soft pastel, but I'm more interested in learning drawing in general than in learning a medium in particular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8829" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T17:42:29.763" Title="Where to start to learn drawing online" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-02-19T16:54:47.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-01-28T04:29:08.640" Score="4" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to use non-adhesive transparent plastic sheet to wrap a soft-back book to protect it for long-term frequent use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to try the method #3 described in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Cover-a-Paperback-Book-With-Clear-Plastic-Film&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wikihow.com/Cover-a-Paperback-Book-With-Clear-Plastic-Film&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried searching using different key words on Internet stores but could NOT find a product suitable. Any suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8830" LastEditorUserId="8830" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T08:19:03.347" LastActivityDate="2023-09-08T07:13:11.307" Title="What's a good non-adhesive plastic sheet to protect soft-back books?" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|paper|plastic|book-binding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7901" CreationDate="2020-01-28T12:34:12.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest using &lt;strong&gt;sheets of clear PVC&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGif8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eGif8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's non-adhesive, a lot more durable than the more common polypropylene sheets (like the perforated 'punched pockets'), but still supple. They mostly come in standard sizes, like in the image, pre-folded and stitched to accommodate certain book size standards (as an example, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brightideascrafts.co.uk/shop/pvc-clear-book-covers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; from which I sourced the image has A4, A4+, 165mm x 210mm, and 180mm x 240mm), but are available as sheets as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also sold under the name heavy-duty (protector) sheet, and it's easier to find complete sheets using that term. Searching for '&lt;em&gt;vinyl sheets&lt;/em&gt;', '&lt;em&gt;plastic roll film&lt;/em&gt;', '&lt;em&gt;clear soft PVC&lt;/em&gt;', or a combination of those keywords yields similarly useful results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slightly less sturdy variant, which is easier to find on rolls for this specific purpose, is called '&lt;em&gt;archival book jacket cover&lt;/em&gt;'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completion's sake, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Durable-Plastic-Book-Cover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;'s a WikiHow entry on wrapping books using these sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-01-28T16:39:55.557" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T16:39:55.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2107" CreationDate="2020-02-01T11:14:01.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a pantograph. Used to enlarge or reduce drawings by tracing the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantograph&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantograph&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/53Ydy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/53Ydy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/53Ydy.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8844" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T11:14:01.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-02T02:27:56.903" Score="5" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been trying to figure out how much psi I need to get air bubbles out of resin when casting. Does anyone have experience with this? Can anyone tell me what amount of pressure will get rid of air bubbles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8845" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-06T11:18:22.070" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T04:12:14.640" Title="Will 20 psi get out air bubbles when resin casting?" Tags="|casting|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-05-20T00:18:53.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7648" CreationDate="2020-02-05T14:57:44.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try mixing the unfermented indigo powder with water in a bowl, and '&lt;em&gt;beating&lt;/em&gt;' it, using a smaller bowl to scoop it up and pouring it back until the mix turns blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider adding &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.coyuchi.com/the-naturalista/indigo_dyeing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lye&lt;/a&gt; [NaOH] or &lt;a href=&quot;https://thekindcraft.com/the-process-indigo-from-plant-to-paste/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slaked lime&lt;/a&gt; [Ca(OH)2] to help the fermentation process. The effectiveness might depend on how the unfermented powder was produced, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T14:57:44.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6487" CreationDate="2020-02-06T01:49:23.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taper Head Bolt seems to be the most technical way I can find it referred as. As common, &quot;Water Bottle Cage Bolts&quot; is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Taper cap bolt&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kW0Pq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kW0Pq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Taper cap bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;M5x12mm Titanium Hex Key Washer Taper Head Bolt Bike MTB Water Bottle Cage Screw&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOfdn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KOfdn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;M5x12mm Titanium Hex Key Washer Taper Head Bolt Bike MTB Water Bottle Cage Screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;MCTi Mountain MTB Bike Water Bottle Cage Titanium Allen Hex Tapered Head Bolts Screw M5x12mm Washer Head 4 Packed Colorful&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ChEYn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ChEYn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MCTi Mountain MTB Bike Water Bottle Cage Titanium Allen Hex Tapered Head Bolts Screw M5x12mm Washer Head 4 Packed Colorful&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Bolts &amp;amp; Fasteners 6pcs Titanium Ti Rainbow M5x20 Bolts Allen Hex Tapered Head Screw&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BSDgN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BSDgN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolts &amp;amp; Fasteners 6pcs Titanium Ti Rainbow M5x20 Bolts Allen Hex Tapered Head Screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Precision Anodized Water Bottle Cage Bolts&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0M81U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0M81U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Precision Anodized Water Bottle Cage Bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Titanium M5x12mm with Washers Bicycle Water Bottle Cage Hex Bolts Pack of 4&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mnkur.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mnkur.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Titanium M5x12mm with Washers Bicycle Water Bottle Cage Hex Bolts Pack of 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;BR&gt;Alloy Water Bottle Cage Bolts&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NXg2e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NXg2e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alloy Water Bottle Cage Bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5884" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T01:49:23.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7653" CreationDate="2020-02-06T15:53:14.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rough texture side is good at &quot;grabbing&quot; and creating friction. So it is better for things like pencils/graphite and for allowing it to deposit into the texture of the paper. The smooth side is better for precise application of liquid medium such as inks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The texture side will be good at holding layers of powder medium such as soft pastels, and allowing for smudge-blending from areas where deposits have built up. It can also grip and hold things like oil pastels well because the texture gives them something to grip onto. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be less effective to use oil pastel on the smooth side as there would be much more streaking; it would build up less and adhere less on the smooth side. Similarly, pencil/graphite would build up less and not adhere as well on the smooth side as there would be less friction from the paper's surface to allow the graphite to deposit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For inks from things like markers, you could utilize the smooth side to help reduce &quot;bleeding&quot; from over-flooded areas since the smooth surface is more resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extreme example of how this works is if you imagine a sheet of glass vs a sheet of soft blotting paper. In the extreme, the smooth surface of the glass would repel ink, creating a surface tension at the edge of the liquid so that it forms small domes on the surface. The blotting paper would simple soak up the ink into a network of texture and absorbent fibers. In the less extreme (aka with the chart paper) this smooth surface on the paper is acting as a slight barrier and allows things like ink to glide along the surface without instantly being absorbed and spreading outwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When drawing, the ultimate way to find out how your tools and mediums will respond to the specific paper stock you are using is to experiment as there are many variables that could help overcome or take advantage of one side or the other for drawing (the thickness of the medium, the application, the tools, the tooth of the paper, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8862" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T15:53:14.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7915" CreationDate="2020-02-07T04:37:48.157" Score="7" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been etching a map of the United States into 9 slate sheets (8&quot; by 11&quot; ~1/4&quot; thick)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally my goal was to try and inlay wire into the groove that I cut with a Dremel. I found colored &quot;beading wire&quot; at a local hobby store in various colors, and a couple different metals. So far, I have had trouble matching the depth/width of the cut, to the gauge of wire. I also have a small set of hobby files that I can use to widen, and slightly deepen the cut, but my overall concern is that it would be extremely difficult to properly bend the wire for all the contours of some boarders. I wanted to avoid cutting the wire into small sections because I fell like it will end up leaving noticeable gaps throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other wire I have tested was soldering wire (lead / tin- very soft) which I was actually able to gently hammer into the groove of a test piece, however it still is fairly dull and does not stand out well. I think if I were to heat it, it would improve the sheen, so that is an option I am also considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both images, I have a line of soldering wire running along the west boarder of North and South Dakota as an example. From an angle, the engraving alone does stand out a bit, but I would still like to improve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to use a slightly larger dremel bit and widen all the cuts, but I would like to avoid this as it would ruin some of the detail already present. I am not sure how it might turn out if I used a larger bit to widen the more open lines, and then left the 'crowded' areas as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result will have the 9 sheets mounted to a piece of ferrous metal, to allow placing magnets across it. I glued a thin felt sheet to one side of a neodymium magnet, and placed a weaker, souvenir magnet to the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; I failed to mention that for fear of hammering any harder wire into the slate, I planned on using 'jewelry and metal glue' which claims to bond metal, stone, ceramic, ... among other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oRowO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oRowO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;straight on view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HTUZg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HTUZg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;angled view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WavUd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WavUd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Profile view and depth&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final update - I have tested using gold leafing with a brush-on metal leaf sealer. I had the option of leafing flakes, or sheets- I went with flakes because I thought they might be better for the less straight boarders, but I will probably go back for the sheets as it will probably be easier to just cut them down into manageable strips. It is extremely visible, even from across the room. I am going to let the sealer dry for a bit before cleaning up the areas around the lines, and I may try putting some masking tape down before I do this on the final map.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GaB7u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GaB7u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gold leaf flakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8811" LastEditorUserId="8811" LastEditDate="2020-02-08T01:41:34.100" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T17:01:32.270" Title="How can I make the detail of this map stand out better?" Tags="|carving|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2020-02-07T13:44:14.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some preliminary ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coloured thread&lt;/strong&gt;. You can glue it into place easily, and use any colour you like (or even combine colours). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gold(-coloured) soldering wire&lt;/strong&gt;, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cooksongold.com/Solders/9ct-Yellow-Gold-Solder-Wire-Hard---0.50mm,-Assay-Quality-.375,-100---Recycled-Gold-prcode-HED-050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, which will stand out more in the dark grey slate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the grooves with bright &lt;strong&gt;acrylic paint&lt;/strong&gt;, and wipe away the excess paint. If trying this method, I suggest experimenting in a small area at first, but any paint will be removable, even after drying. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T21:52:35.340" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T21:52:35.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2020-02-07T13:49:21.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would call inlaying metal wires into slate a high-risk project in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You already managed to carve the groves - congratulations for that!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slate has the tendency to chip or break when hammered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colored wire for jewelry often has a &lt;em&gt;very thin&lt;/em&gt; coating of color over a soft metal core (often aluminum). Hammering that into the groves could damage or remove the color coat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to that the fact that the contrast between slate and soldering wire is not very high - both appear silver or grey, depending on the lighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first advice for this project is to &lt;strong&gt;use a contrasting color&lt;/strong&gt; for the groves. Anything but black, white, silver or grey will stand out better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the high risk of breaking a sheet, I would not hammer anything into the grooves. Filling the grooves with a liquid promises more success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea that you can test for a low price is good old Window Color. Buy a bottle of Window Color contour paint - these have a thicker consistency and a higher pigment content. Test the paint on the back of a sheet and see if you can peel it off in case something goes wrong. If you're satisfied with the test, squirt the paint into the grooves and let it dry. You can thin the paint by adding a few drops of water to the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better shine might be possible by using metallic nail polish. I suggest transfering the nail polish into a squirt bottle with a thin nozzle that fits into the grooves. Both (bottle and extra thin nozzle) should be available online or in good crafting stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metallic permanent markers might work as well, if the tip is thin enough to fit into a groove. Both nail polish and permanent marker can be removed with nail polish remover, but the grooves probably make it harder to get all of the paint out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative that promises an even and shiny result is enamel color. These are often used for model painting and have a high pigment content, like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revell.de/en/products/colors-accessories/email-colours/email-color-gold-metallic-14ml.html?listtype=search&amp;amp;searchparam=Gold&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example by Revell&lt;/a&gt;. The only disadvantage is that I don't know how you could remove it in case something goes wrong, but I'm sure the manufacturer will provide more information. Use this paint with a squirt bottle as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, my experience with slate as a crafting material is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before applying any paint, wipe the slate off with nail polish remover to remove any oily residue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slate needs extremely long to dry. It took almost a whole day in my case and in the meantime the slate looked blotchy. It's only dry when the whole sheet is a uniform light grey.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test any paint or nail polish on the back side. The structure of slate can make some colors run and bleed into adjacent areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-02-08T08:38:53.577" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T08:38:53.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2020-02-07T16:23:05.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider using gold leaf. The force required to apply it and make it adhere to the rough interior of the groove is very small, so there is no danger of damaging the slate. The cost should be reasonable since the area to be covered is so small. And gold leaf will start out very bright and will stay bright indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8865" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T16:23:05.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2020-02-07T23:33:44.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Epoxy&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to the other good answers, you might try using an epoxy with a high contrast pigment mixed in. This would be similar to the &amp;quot;river tables&amp;quot; that are currently really popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a wide variety of pigments, just like with anything else. There's liquid and powder pigments to match just about any color you want. What you use will be directly related to the contrast you want and the color and effect you want. You can get bright silver or gold pigments, as well as more exotic or normal options, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are on slate that can't easily be sanded, scraped, planed, or even wiped off, I'd suggest masking all your lines off first and completely. I'd even go so far as to say mask off everything, then go back and use a razor to cut your lines back into each piece. Since this would be runny liquid, you'd also need to mask off the edges, where the liquid would flow out. You'll need better tape than masking, painters, or packing tape, since slate isn't a smooth surface and tape doesn't exactly want to always stick to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a clear 2 part epoxy and haven't had issues with the tile and wood pieces I've done, except for drips as the epoxy goes around an edge to the bottom of the piece, which shouldn't be an issue for you. There's quite a few options out there, and your local craft and hardware store probably has some casting epoxy that'll work. Mix a small amount of the epoxy as per the instructions, then halfway through the mixing process add the pigment and stir some more, finishing the epoxy mixing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carefully pour the epoxy mix into the lines. Depending on the viscosity, it will flow down the valley, but don't rely on that 100%. Be sure to pour in multiple places. Even auto-leveling isn't completely reliable. Once you get enough in to completely fill the line, scrape off any extra with a soft scraper (like a Bondo applicator or spatula) and do it down the length of the line, being careful to cross any intersections at an angle, so you don't accidentally dip your scraper into a line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have it all leveled out, remove the tape, except for the vertical edges. This will allow you to wipe up anything that seeped in under the tape before it cures. Once the epoxy cures, it's extremely difficult to remove and you'll risk pulling up epoxy out of the lines if you do get it started. It generally cuts with just a razor blade, but it's a pain to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to babysit the epoxy, so that while it does it's auto-leveling thing, it doesn't escape from the lines. I notice that there's a fair amount of variance in the level of the slate you used, so it might cause you some problems. Once it starts to set up, you should be fine to leave. Most of the epoxies I use have a 30-60 minute working time and a 4 hour set up time, with a 24-72 hour full cure time. There are other epoxies available with much shorter set and cure times, but they also have significantly shorter working times, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;UV Resin&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to the epoxy option above, you can get UV resin for 3D printers, mix it with the same pigments, pour it into the lines, then use a UV light to cure the epoxy in just a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The down side to this is that over curing the epoxy with the light can cause discoloration. There's a time limit to when this epoxy can be UV cured. Some of this resin will cease to be able to be further cured after a week, but some take as much as a month before it'll not continue to cure in UV light. I mention this, because there's a lot of UV light in the sun, so an outdoor installation would need to be delayed to avoid over curing. Also, applying the resin should be done indoors with a little light as possible, but still being able to see what you're doing. The UV resin only needs a few seconds of UV light to set up, but that's if you have concentrated UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to get a UV light that matches the curing UV of the resin. Most of the resins have a 405nm rating, which is the wavelength of UV light that cures/activates it. There are plenty of low cost UV lights available that match this rating, so they are readily available, too. I have 3 of these lights, but I use them to cure pieces that come out of my 3D resin printer. It only takes a couple of minutes, sometimes not even that long, to fully cure a piece. Sometimes a few minutes is enough to over cure a thin piece, with the 60 watt LED lights I have. Over curing tends to make the piece look amber, which won't really detract from a gold, orange, or yellow pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other downside to this is the possibility of the resin to remain tacky/sticky after being cured. If you think you have the large majority of it cured (due to it being hard rather than liquid), you can try wiping off the sticky resin with greater than 91% rubbing alcohol. You can get this at Walmart and other retailers, and you'll need it for cleanup of any tools you use. Wiping off the sticky resin will leave the line with a matte finish, rather than glossy, but it might not matter when contrasted with the slate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a spray on epoxy to cover the sticky resin, but that would require you to keep your masking tape on the slate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T17:01:32.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-08T03:10:32.670" Score="3" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly SE doesn’t really have a great fit subsite for my specific question, and the DIY stack exchange is mainly for home improvement. Thus, I post here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have designed a usb device and ordered and assembled the circuit boards. This looks ugly, and I would like to make an enclosure for it. DIY electronics enclosures are dinky, ugly and too big. I want a professional look. Sadly, I do not have an assembly agreement with a plastics factory. If I did, I would have a custom enclosure poured with sleek, black plastic. Instead, I will have to make the enclosure DIY before pitching the product to potential sponsors. My entire design could fit inside the USB plug shown below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etEhT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Credit: Amazon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore the male plug, my design will has only female plugs. I want an enclosure for my device with very similar style and dimensions as what is pictured above, only black plastic instead of silver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have thought of using some kind of specialized pipe and cutting the ends. I have also thought about pouring the enclosure in epoxy but that would just be a mess. I have tic-tac containers I could spray paint but that seems a little less professional than I would like. Are there any opaque containers that could achieve such a look? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8332" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T11:54:14.353" Title="Rectangle-Cylindrical Enclosure ideas?" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7917" CreationDate="2020-02-08T11:54:14.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As your objective appears to be the requirement to present a product, you aren't asking for production methods. This suggests that a suitable method is to use 3D printing, specifically resin printing, to create the enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D resin printing is nearly layer free (strong magnification required) and presents a smooth professional appearance. It can be painted to provide the necessary coloration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be able to have an enclosure designed specifically for the components to be placed within, providing structural support for circuit boards, switches, LEDs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Online services such as Shapeways will create these prototypes or you may find local resources. A nearby makerspace would also be a resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to create a plug/mold/part system. Carve, cut, sand or otherwise create a duplicate of your design in any convenient material. Even balsa wood serves the purpose as long as the surface is sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour molding silicone around the plug and when cured, remove it and pour resin to create your final component. Resin can be colored as required, rather than to resort to applying paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is a summary, as the process is slightly more involved than described, but is an option for you to have a reasonably professional appearing enclosure. Considerations involve resin pour path and venting, mold parting and alignment, etc. Additional research is recommended if this is your selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T11:54:14.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-08T22:20:53.310" Score="11" ViewCount="4408" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off I screwed up where I drilled the hole for the drain. The middle of the bowl is actually raised so the water pools in a circle around the drain: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVsP5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVsP5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HeLVK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HeLVK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious what my options are now... Is there any way I can salvage this? There's about 3-4mm of standing water in a ring around the bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I put another smaller drain in back of the bowl? I'm wondering if I could even plug the hole I drilled and not have it look awful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8875" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T23:46:12.807" Title="Trying to turn a vintage wash basin into a vessel sink. How can I get rid of this standing water?" Tags="|tool-selection|sculpting|ceramics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7921" CreationDate="2020-02-08T23:13:49.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing you can do, except to put in another drain.  You cannot tilt that bowl in any direction that will but the hole you have at the bottom, so there is no way to avoid the standing water without having an additional outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging the center hole will probably (as you suggest) result in something that does not look very good (unless you can perfectly match the color on the ceramic), so I think your best option is to introduce a smaller additional drain hole somewhere along the bottom of the trough.  If you want it to be unobtrusive, the best place to put an addition hole is toward the front of the vessel (the side farthest from the tap), since a user will generally spend to most time looking toward the back side of the bowl, underneath the tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, if you want to be able to fill up the sink, you will need to have plugs for both holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="221" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T23:13:49.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7921" CreationDate="2020-02-09T01:28:15.027" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't object to a transparent substance in the bottom of the basin, you can use acrylic casting resin, aiming for a product which specifically advertises itself as clear, as some of the available casting resins are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing the product per directions and pouring it into the basin with a bowl under the drain will allow you to place the exact amount, while the excess runs into the bowl. Ensure that the basin is perfectly level prior to the pour for what I hope is an obvious reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's typical to subject casting resin to a pressure pot to remove bubbles, but that's not necessarily practical in this situation. A heat gun (preferred) or hair dryer will help to clear bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a possible bonus, you can mix a small amount of glitter or similar decoration if you wish to add a different touch, although that's not consistent with the flower motif currently in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not be suited if you intend to use abrasive cleansers on the surface, but they can be polished out with appropriate abrasives and plenty of labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T01:28:15.027" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2020-02-09T15:03:36.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging from the images of the example you linked to, I assume the shells have been softened and shaped, which is most obvious around the edges (as they fold around the borders). What I found about softening capiz shells is that heat and/or a (chemical?) solution are used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/CN101037073A/en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a paper on the softening process, but it's likely automatically translated from Chinese to English, and kind of hard to read, but this is what I take away from it: the shells have to oxidize for 11-12 hours using a chemical process, and then, through applying pressure, the cracked shell can be shaped.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://patents.google.com/patent/US3346395A/en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is another paper, speaking of softening the shells of crustaceans for edible purposes by soaking them in a mix with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glacial acetic acid&lt;/a&gt; (which is sold, among other places, on Amazon):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Soaking the crabs at temperatures from about 80 to 212 degrees Fahrenheit, in an aqueous solution containing from about 2% to 25% by weight of glacial acetic acid, until the shells become acceptable soft as determined by tactile examination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, these papers might provide a starting point to experiment with the softening of shells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since that process is likely quite hard to perform - since little information on it is readily available - &lt;strong&gt;as an alternative, I suggest casting the shells in a clear epoxy resin&lt;/strong&gt; (see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/7880/6388&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay out the shells in a pattern you like on a flat surface large enough to contain the size of the tabletop. Set up a border around the area, and slowly and carefully add an epoxy resin. After curing, you can saw off the excessive part of the edge, and grind it down to a nice smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the height or thickness you want the top to have, you might consider adding an additional layer cast in the same fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more detailed instructions I suggest reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Resin-River-Table-Using-Clear-Epoxy-Casting-Re/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; (I won't go into the details, since I only want to address the specificity of your question as it is quite broad in scope as it is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-02-09T15:03:36.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2242" CreationDate="2020-02-10T12:53:21.710" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used white spirit on a cloth and lightly rub the surface area until its reasonably clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8883" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T12:53:21.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7921" CreationDate="2020-02-10T14:59:06.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could make another little flat hole on just one side of the round plate and have a little plumb to converge from there in the main central plumbing, so as the main hole will got the direct water and the new small one just the remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you'll need a little of inclination to get the water stream to the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T14:59:06.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7900" CreationDate="2020-02-10T17:42:29.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're interested in learning drawing without a specific medium, I recommend Udemy. It has a lot of great lessons, if you're willing to pay (~$15). My recommendation is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.udemy.com/course/the-ultimate-drawing-course-beginner-to-advanced/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.udemy.com/course/the-ultimate-drawing-course-beginner-to-advanced/&lt;/a&gt;. Not only is the course long and comprehensive, but you can even ask the teacher questions about anything. He gives out assignments and reviews your submissions. You can see what other people submitted, too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm not sponsored in any way by Udemy or the course teacher. I took the course last year, and really enjoyed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8885" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T17:42:29.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7930" CreationDate="2020-02-10T20:40:27.923" Score="2" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been building a decently strength-sensitive project and received conflicting advice regarding the final bond strength of epoxies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard some say that bond strength has nothing to do with the rated curing time and that 6-minute epoxy is just as strong as 15 or 30 minute after it has cured, while some have told me that longer cure time epoxies will have higher bond strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any merit to the argument that epoxy's bond strength depends on its rated cure time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8887" LastActivityDate="2023-04-11T21:35:24.367" Title="Does epoxy's final bond strength depend on its rated cure time?" Tags="|adhesives|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2020-02-10T21:03:20.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told by the proprietor of the local hobby shop that long-cure epoxy adhesives will be stronger than short-cure. I was told at the time that it has to do with the lower heat generated by the long-cure, but my research today suggests nothing of the sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The few links I pursued indicated that long-cure epoxies remain in a semi-liquid state for a longer period (duh) which allows the cross-linked molecule strings to increase in length, when compared to short-cure epoxies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noted that when using 5 minute cure time epoxy adhesive, it will sometimes fail under lower stress conditions than expected, while in a similar mechanical configuration, the 30 minute stuff holds up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all of these epoxy references, including those for fiberglass and carbon fiber applications, it is noted that full strength will require 24 hours or longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the forum posts I discovered (radio control model building) provided an anecdote in which the OP discovered the 15 minute epoxy adhesive would shrink and crack and become brittle under conditions that did not cause similar problems for the 30 minute formulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to locate any solid technical papers covering research. It appears anecdotal and also my personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T21:03:20.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2020-02-11T01:36:26.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.  And this applies to a bunch of characteristics, not just bond strength.  Let me back up a step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Epoxy&amp;quot; is a collection of chemistries.  There are a number of different base resins, a number of different kinds of hardeners, and various other things that can accelerate the reaction.  Turning the liquid into a hard plastic entails a chemical reaction between the resin and hardener (the hardener isn't a catalyst that produces a fixed result based on the resin).  The specific chemistry of the chosen resin and hardener combination produces results with different characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The setting time varies, and the end result can vary in all kinds of ways: performance differences, hardness, color, thermal and chemical properties, etc.  For a particular purpose, the chemistry is optimized for the characteristics that are important (curing speed is just one; it's a balancing of requirements).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between a fast-setting and slow-setting epoxy might involve different hardeners that produce different end products (for a slow- and fast-setting version of a particular product, the results should be pretty similar, since the products are designed for the same general purpose, and could be similar enough that you wouldn't notice a difference for your application).  Or, it might accomplish faster setting by adding accelerators to the hardener, which would produce essentially the same end product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some products, you can even mix slow and fast hardeners to make a medium-speed epoxy.  With other products, the slow and fast hardeners aren't compatible chemistries, and you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the curing time, itself, that can affect performance.  But the chemistry that the product uses to accomplish the different setting speeds might affect performance.  The only practical way to know is to contact the product manufacturer and ask (or test both versions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have some chemistry background, you might find &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20200110055021/http://www.huntsman.com/performance_products/Media%20Library/a_MC348531CFA3EA9A2E040EBCD2B6B7B06/Home_MC348531CFA8BA9A2E040EBCD2B6B7B06/Technical%20Presentati_MC4296668862CCC36E040EBCD2B6B5BA5/files/Acceleration%20of%20Epoxy%20Resin%20Systems%20-%20Burton%20-%20Rev%202006.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt; by a scientist at one of the epoxy manufacturers relevant (it's a PDF link).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2023-04-11T21:35:24.367" LastActivityDate="2023-04-11T21:35:24.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7933" CreationDate="2020-02-11T06:39:25.673" Score="2" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read in several places that adding fresh silicone over cured one will not work, as the new silicone will not adhere to the old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: if I create some object of epoxy resins, can I repair dents by adding more (fresh) epoxy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T10:31:29.887" Title="Epoxy: adding fresh over cured" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-11T06:51:36.697" Score="1" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an apartment some time ago, all the repairs are mostly finished. Because of some oversight, I am not in a lose-lose situation. In the bathroom, I do not have enough space for the sink that I want, because of the door placement - please read that the sink is about 5cm bigger than the available space, not allowing the door to open properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My alternatives are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break the wall to move the door, re-make repairs to the wall (including wall tiles);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace the door, to open on the other side;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy another sink, live with the regret that I do not have the sink that I want;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;create a sink &quot;from scratch&quot; with the proper dimensions, with the desired shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the question is: &lt;strong&gt;is the epoxy resin a proper material for that? Are there kinds of epoxy to be avoided?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw many videos on the net of people creating tables from epoxy (by poring it in &quot;holes&quot; in wood), or other smaller objects. What I need is a big(ger) object, which should have enough strength by itself, considering the intended use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any generic, &lt;strong&gt;good quality&lt;/strong&gt; tutorials about how to use epoxy for my purpose? I am sure that the videos do not give all the &quot;secrets&quot; - e.g. the thickness of the epoxy layer needed for a certain strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am aware that some special shape under the sink will give more strength (by providing support), as well as embedding some metal &quot;wires&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Fixer1234 provided a very comprehensive comment, with excellent questions. I will go to answer them, to the best of my abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not a bunch of great choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, but that is pretty much it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can you add some detail on the sink and the space issue? Is the sink a vessel mounted on top of the counter, molded into a countertop on a vanity, a single-piece stand-alone sink mounted to the wall or on a pedestal (different considerations and potential solutions for each)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is (almost) exactly what I want:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3yz3q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3yz3q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can you add a diagram of the bathroom showing the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagram is below. I do not have measurements, and it will be a long time before I can make them. But the situation is properly described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaB8u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaB8u.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are you envisioning casting a huge, solid resin item rather than resin coating a fiberglass form or a concrete casting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that is a topic I did not have in mind. Even using epoxy as a &quot;raw material&quot; is a new idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what the &quot;fiberglass form&quot; stuff is, but I might be able to shape a support from polystyrene, and &quot;dress&quot; it with a layer of epoxy. Main question: will it be strong enough? It would be very easy to shape details separately, and then to put them together, adding epoxy to the &quot;corners&quot; to seal it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you need the sink to be transparent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Actually, I want to store stuff under the sink, so transparency should be avoided, I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are you envisioning just a uniform molded block of resin, or embedding decoration of some kind within it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I stated before, I might think about creating some parts, to be joined at the and, instead of creating a crazily shaped mold from the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you have some experience casting big resin items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only experience I have with epoxy until now is watching videos :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What makes the sink you want unique (a particular shape/style/design that might be available in a size that would work vs. a one-of-a-kind work of art)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Size (being 2-in-1, wide, with large storage space below) and the wavy pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there's any chance you can buy what you want in a size that will work, that will save you a lot of headaches over any of the alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not find the &quot;same&quot; thing in a proper size. As I said, I can opt for something totally different, which will fit in size, but I will be sad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The YouTube videos make it look straightforward. But that's with a big investment in a shop and materials, and a lot of experience doing it before. The first sink those guys made wasn't like the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is obvious, mastery takes practice, and material (and money) waste. I have limited experience with hand crafting smaller items (just hobby), and I know that things can get difficult quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all walls are made of steel-reinforced concrete;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the relevant walls (the one behind the sink and the one with the door) are only 8cm thick;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am very aware that creating a sink from epoxy is not a trivial task; that is why I did not ask first: &quot;can I transform ruined cured epoxy into fresh epoxy?&quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I only need to create one piece; no need to worry for any marketability;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-02-12T10:47:43.730" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T14:20:28.260" Title="Create large objects from epoxy" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7931" CreationDate="2020-02-11T13:39:24.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience fresh epoxy will bond with already cured resin just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both the cured and fresh epoxy should be the same chemicals. I have no experience with layering different types of resin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that the surface of the cured resin is clean (no dust or oily residue) and both batches have the same color you cannot see the individual layers after the fresh resin cured.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given the first batch of resin cured right (the resin to hardener ratio was right and it's not still soft or sticky) I was never able to seperate individual layers of resin without breaking the object. You cannot &quot;fix&quot; a batch of resin that doesn't cure because of wrong mixing ratios by pouring more resin on top. You can only stabilize slightly bendy resin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you expect the joint to come under tension, you should roughen the cured surface with coarse sandpaper. This gives the fresh resin a bigger surface to bond to but will become invisible if you remove the dust before pouring. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should keep surface tension in mind. Pouring fresh resin over only part of a cured object creates a visible transition and the fresh surface will reflect light differently because surface tension pulls it into a different shape. I highly recomment covering the entire surface of a cured object with a thin layer of fresh resin to repair dents or holes. Pour enough resin that the surface tension cannot pull the fresh resin away from corners or high edges (happened to me several times)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I craft with resin I often cover objects in several thin layers of epoxy. In videos you often see people grinding and polishing their epoxy jewelry to a shine in a long process. If you don't need perfectly even surfaces, you can pour a thin layer of epoxy on top instead and archive a finish that's clear and shiny without the trouble of polishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-02-12T10:31:29.887" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T10:31:29.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7921" CreationDate="2020-02-11T23:46:12.807" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a shop press that's rated for at least a few tons, you can try reshaping the bottom of the bowl so that it is concave, instead of convex, from how it is right now. To do this right, you'll probably need to heat up the bowl so that it's easier to work with, but the heat from a torch might damage the paint. Even a heat gun might damage the paint, and bending the bowl into a different shape could also destroy the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, I'm going to have to assume you put the ring depression around the hole and that didn't damage the paint, so you might be good to go. Also, if you put in that ring, you probably have the size of shop press to make this happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you'll do is to find or make another heavy bowl or depression for this to sit in while you apply pressure from the top. You might want to use a large piece of rubber or a sandbag with a piece of steel on top to apply even pressure across the dome. The idea is to get the dome to pop out under the bowl or to press it into a different shape with a depression, instead of the raised bit you have. If it's only a 3-5mm, this shouldn't be too difficult, but if the dome does do a &quot;tin can&quot; kind of popping out the bottom, you might have all the pressure of your press released all at once, so strapping the bowl and other press items down would be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I haven't done anything like this myself, so I'd check to see if there are any tutorials or videos that might have a better way to make this attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T23:46:12.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7932" CreationDate="2020-02-12T09:33:27.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sink like that is more complex than it appears.  The factory that makes it has invested in precision molds that get reused to make it cost effective.  There are hidden parts like the overflow plumbing and mounting, and considerations like making water-tight seals with standard plumbing components.  There aren't really &quot;secrets&quot; to making it with the right structural characteristics, just a lot of engineering design and prototyping.  Reproducing that (and getting a result that looks like a commercial product), would be a challenge even for a pro.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea of making sections, adding an epoxy coat, and gluing them together is the kind of thing that might be used to make a prop that looks like a sink (it might even be how the &quot;concept&quot; model was made).  It wouldn't look professional up close, and it would be tough to meet the structural requirements and have it hold up long-term.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People do use a somewhat related approach to make models out of fiberglass.  They create a form with the shape, cover it with fiberglass cloth, then saturate the fiberglass with epoxy.  The sink could probably be made that way as a whole unit.  People make things like custom car bodies that way.  It would take some experimenting, and a lot of &quot;cleanup&quot; and finishing work (the same work that goes into making a car body that looks like a finished product).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: an update to the question clarifies that the walls are concrete, so the following portion of the answer, which assumed wood framing, isn't applicable.  I'll leave it here just in case another reader is in a similar situation.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need to have that sink, altering the walls or door may be more practical.  Those kinds of renovations aren't insanely expensive, the materials are readily available, and if you aren't skilled yourself, you can contract it out and the marketplace is competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential solutions depend somewhat on your local building codes, but there are at least three approaches I can think of to gain 5 cm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the door with a narrower one using the existing wall framing.  That might even be a relatively simple task with little to repair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reframe the doorway area of the wall to shift the door farther from the sink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reframe the wall behind the sink to create a bump-in that the sink fits into.  If that wall is not load-bearing and the construction is drywall over wood framing, you may be able to turn the studs sideways to make the wall thinner.  With lumber in the US, that gains you two inches, which is your 5 cm.  You might be able to gain a little more by using thinner drywall.  It might even be practical to steal a little space from the adjoining room and bump back that section of wall (basically remove that portion and build a new wall a little farther back).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bathroom doors typically open into the bathroom except for &quot;Jack and Jill&quot; bathrooms shared between two bedrooms; those open into the bedrooms.  It might be possible to flip the door around so it opens out.  However, that would leave the sink and vanity sticking into the doorway.  Even if that isn't against the building code, it will look pretty strange.  It might even affect you when you go to sell the apartment, so it isn't a good alternative. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth talking to a carpenter to get input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-02-12T17:47:25.210" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T17:47:25.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7937" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-02-12T14:17:27.130" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-02-12T14:17:27.130" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T14:17:27.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7938" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-02-12T14:17:27.130" Score="0" Body="For questions about making cosmetics" OwnerUserId="1436" LastEditorUserId="1436" LastEditDate="2020-02-12T16:16:09.523" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T16:16:09.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7941" CreationDate="2020-02-12T15:46:54.990" Score="3" ViewCount="6518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a lot of Youtube videos about people creating jewelry and artwork with epoxy resin. Most of them do not wear any gloves or other safety equipment, but some do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I saw a video of a former Youtuber who stressed that any epoxy resin is a health hazard and that working without safety equipment made her chronically ill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know which kind of safety equipment (if any) I really should use when working with epoxy resin. What other safety measures (not equipment related) should I take when working with resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T19:04:52.210" Title="Do I need safety equipment when working with epoxy resin?" Tags="|safety|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7939" CreationDate="2020-02-12T20:00:29.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you need to make a distinction for epoxies intended for an industrial environment.  There are some kinds of epoxy, and some handling methods (like spraying epoxy for finishes), that are hazardous and need a respirator and skin protection.  Epoxy sold for home use is much safer, and products sold as art supplies are covered by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cpsc.gov/ja/node/31251&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;regulations&lt;/a&gt; that require them to be pretty safe, including being non-toxic, at least when used as directed (ingesting the stuff can be harmful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's mainly two kinds of exposure to protect yourself against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skin contact.&lt;/strong&gt;  The epoxy components can irritate your skin.  People can even develop allergies to it.  Solvents you might use to clean it off your skin can be more harmful than the epoxy, itself.  It's generally a good idea to protect your skin from accidental contact by wearing gloves.  It can be hard to get out of clothing, and the components remain a sticky liquid for a very long time (which can lead to skin contact), so protecting your clothing is common sense.  It's also common sense to wear some form of eye protection.  There may not be much chance of getting a splash in your eye; but if you did that would really ruin your day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Respiration.&lt;/strong&gt;  Epoxy doesn't generate much in the way of fumes, and the fumes aren't labeled as poisonous (a technical distinction, see footnote&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;).  Using small amounts in a well ventilated place is safe, and you generally don't need a respirator to occasionally make some small castings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But concentrated fumes can irritate your respiratory system, and repeated exposure can cause chronic problems.  If you make huge castings, work in a small space with little air circulation, use epoxy frequently, or have a compulsion to get your face close to the components or the uncured casting to continually inspect things, it's better to use a proper respirator (one designed for fumes, not a dust mask).  It's a matter of how much excessive exposure and how often.  People also vary in their sensitivity.  Someone with a chronic condition like hay fever may already have inflammation and be much more sensitive to the fumes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you generate fine dust, especially from freshly cured epoxy, which might not be 100% reacted, like by sanding it, you should wear a respirator, or at least a good dust mask.  If you get those fine particles in your lungs, they can be harmful.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West System, an epoxy manufacturer, has a really good safety guide available as a PDF link: &lt;a href=&quot;https://epoxyworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/000-574-Epoxy-Safety.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;West System Epoxy Safety&lt;/a&gt;.  They also have a great broader discussion here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.westsystem.com/safety/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Epoxy Safety - Using WEST SYSTEM Epoxy safely&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Note that &quot;poisonous&quot; is a technical distinction related to the nature of potential harm.  &quot;Poisonous&quot; seems to be reserved for materials that cause harm by chemically reacting with your body rather than materials that cause physical irritation or interference at the area of contact (which could potentially still result in your body producing harmful changes).  &quot;Non-poisonous&quot; doesn't necessarily mean not potentially harmful.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-02-19T19:04:52.210" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T19:04:52.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-13T06:26:07.913" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/7932/6715&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this kind of project&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; I have in mind using epoxy of different viscosity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to create the &quot;base structure&quot; use (very) viscous epoxy - especially for the curved area; I could shape it like I could shape cement;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to create a more beautiful finish - use (very) fluid epoxy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course (especially considering &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/7931/epoxy-adding-fresh-over-cured&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;), the epoxy should have the same chemicals, but be &quot;adjustable&quot; to be thinner or thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the agent should not change the chemistry (much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that the curing time is not an issue - unless it extends to days / weeks / more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T02:21:54.223" Title="Can epoxy fluidity be changed, before it is cured?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7942" CreationDate="2020-02-13T14:22:01.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some&lt;/em&gt; epoxies are more fluid at higher temperatures, at least at first.  The higher temperature also causes faster cooling.  I've used this to good effect with epoxy adhesives. A slow-setting (several hours to give a useful bond) product warmed up to about 40&amp;deg;C gives a very good bond as it wets the surfaces well; it then cures fairly quickly, though not as quickly as the equivalent fast product.   Conversely chilling should both thicken and slow down the reaction.  Using a fairly liquid version and chilling for the thicker step might be worth a try, however it will still slump unless restrained by a mould.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additives are likely to be problematic for thinning: they'll be liquids that are likely to want to evaporate, so adding too much will lead to significant shrinkage; they'll also affect the cure.  Water is a bad idea - it will lead to a cloudy and weak result, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tips-techniques-180/11635037-30-minute-epoxy-alcohol.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;small amounts of acetone or denatured alcohol&lt;/a&gt; can apparently be used &lt;em&gt;if you want a very thin layer&lt;/em&gt;.  Mixing isn't easy, which means it's likely to introduce bubbles (as it did when I tried using alcohol-soluble dies.  So this probably isn't an option for forming or casting, but may help your topcoat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because formulations are proprietary, you'll have to do some experimenting on a smaller scale, and hope that translates well to a large scale. Other people may have used specific &#xA;products that you can easily buy, and their results might help you get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T14:22:01.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7942" CreationDate="2020-02-13T20:49:10.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be giving yourself unnecessary constraints that would make it harder to achieve the result.  You need a structural layer that will stay where you put it during creation, and a finish layer that will bond with it and flow enough to self-level into a smooth surface.  The structural layer needs to cure into the right characteristics for strength and not be brittle.  The finish layer needs to cure with different characteristics to achieve a different purpose.  Trying to achieve the two different purposes by just adjusting the viscosity of the same epoxy isn't a good way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Structural layer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creation stage:&lt;/strong&gt; Anything that's just a viscous liquid will flow.  That's a problem when you're working against gravity with non-horizontal surfaces; even horizontal surfaces if you don't constrain the edges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of ways to overcome that.  One is to use a material designed to not flow.  There are epoxy putties and clays that are designed to be worked like clay.  You can form it into what you want and it will stay like that.  So you could press it against your form and work it into a flat surface of the desired thickness, or roll it into a flat sheet of the desired thickness, lay it onto the form and trim the excess.  That might work well with your idea of making sections and then joining them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is epoxy paste, like Bondo, designed for purposes like repairing car bodies.  It can be spread and shaped and will stay as you put it.  You could just spread a layer of the desired thickness on your form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different way to avoid slumping is to work in layers, impregnating liquid epoxy into something that holds the epoxy in place.  You can use something like nylon or fiberglass mesh (similar to what's used to strengthen repairs of cracks in drywall or concrete), or a fabric.  You make each layer not much thicker than the mesh or fabric, so there isn't free epoxy to flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strength:&lt;/strong&gt;  Epoxy tends to be brittle.  Some epoxy clay or paste can be even more so; they contain fillers that may be optimized for purposes other than strength (there are also clays and pastes that contain reinforcing material, so it's stronger than plain resin).  If you were to cast a thick piece, it would have plenty of strength.  But creating a relatively thin sheet for the shell won't.  One way to strengthen it is to reinforce it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use epoxy clay, you can embed mesh into it, or create two thinner layers and sandwich the mesh between them.  If you use layers of liquid resin with mesh or a non-stretchable fabric like fiberglass, that provides the reinforcement.  A relatively thin skin of resin and fiberglass is strong enough for purposes like car and boat bodies.  If you use a product that contains reinforcing fibers (like certain versions of Bondo), you wouldn't need additional reinforcement; just figure out how thick the shell needs to be for the required strength and rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finish layer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The structural epoxy shell doesn't necessarily need a finish layer.  You can think of the whole shell as a thick finish; it just doesn't have a super-smooth surface.  If you color the epoxy used for the shell, you could just smooth and polish the surface.  The only reasons to add a finish layer are for the color or to save some of the work of polishing the surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make the shell in sections and join them, you can polish each section before you join them.  If you apply a finish layer, do that to the entire unit after the sections are joined.  You would likely use epoxy clay or paste in the joints, and it's better to bond that with the shell material than to a finish layer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't really a problem getting finishes to bond with epoxy.  You can choose a finish material that's the best for the job.  There isn't a good reason to use a low-viscosity epoxy for that.  You can pour resin over a flat surface and get a nice finish, but that won't work on non-horizontal surfaces; it will flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finish a non-horizontal surface, you need a material that acts like paint.  You need to be able to apply it in thin layers that flow enough to blend and self-level locally into a smooth surface, and quickly harden enough to not flow more.  Epoxy resin is terrible for that purpose; it has all the wrong characteristics.  You can do it in an industrial setting, but it isn't practical otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a need to reinvent the wheel.  Applying a tough, nice finish to epoxy has already been perfected, is done routinely, and is readily available.  It's the finishing step of car body repair.  You can get automotive paint in any color, and clear coat, in handy spray cans.  That will do a much better job, more simply, than trying to apply epoxy resin uniformly to big 3D pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-02-13T21:44:19.840" LastActivityDate="2020-02-13T21:44:19.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-14T03:56:44.030" Score="4" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading about subtractive and additive color mixing and one thing is still confusing me. When I mix red paint, which reflects red light and absorbs all other light, with white paint, I get pink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I read it almost seems like mixing white paint with red paint should result in red paint. Here's what I'm thinking: When two subtractive colors mix, their properties for what colors they absorb mix.  White paint absorbs no light and reflects everything. Red paint absorbs everything other than red. When you add these hue's properties together for light absorption and reflection, you're left with the properties of red, essentially the lowest common denominator of sorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where am I going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8897" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T18:20:07.153" Title="Question about subtractive color mixing" Tags="|color|color-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7945" CreationDate="2020-02-14T04:55:20.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pink color of the mixed red and white is an optical illusion, similar to how inkjet printers create all the colors from inks of three primary colors by printing combinations of tiny colored dots close together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color in paint is particles of finely-ground pigments (colored powder), suspended in a liquid that dries into a film.  When you mix red and white paint, you get a suspension of red particles and white particles.  There is a mix of those particles on the surface of the paint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red particles reflect just the red light.  The white particles reflect all the colors.  The individual particles are too small to differentiate with the naked eye.  What you see is a blend of the light reflected by the different particles on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-04T18:20:07.153" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T18:20:07.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7945" CreationDate="2020-02-14T13:00:54.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As fixer1234 correctly explained, white is not simply &quot;colorless&quot; or &quot;transparent&quot;, but it reflects light of all colors. By mixing pure red with pure white, you end up with 50% red light combined with 50% all wavelengths combined, which makes the red appear lighter (what we commonly call &quot;pink&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 dimensional color systems like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munsell_color_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munsell color system&lt;/a&gt; that take the amount of light into account. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PeiFv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PeiFv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Munsell color system&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The center top point (white) is an even mix of all wavelengths of light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The center bottom point (black) is no light at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The outermost points represent light of one single wavelength. This is the pure color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additive Color Mixing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you shine a spotlight with a red wavelength filter on a white wall, you'll end up with a pure red color, like shown in the outer ring of the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you dim the red spotlight (remove light), you make the red appear darker, moving towards the bottom of the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you shine an unfiltered white spotlight at the same wall, you mix red light with white light, moving towards the top of the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put a wavelength filter of the color that's opposite of red on the second spotlight, you desaturate the color, moving towards the center of the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Substractive Color Mixing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put paint with a pure red pigment on a white wall, the wall (ideally) reflects  only red light and absorbs all other wavelengths, like shown in the outer ring of the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mix the red paint with something that absorbs light instead of reflecting it (black paint), the wall reflects less of the red light, making it appear darker, moving towards the bottom of the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mix the red paint with something that reflects all wavelengths of light (white paint), the wall reflects all the red light and additionally some of all other wavelengths, making it appear lighter and moving towards the top of the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mix the red paint with the paint that is directly opposite in the diagram (green paint), both reflect a mix of different wavelengths, moving towards the center of the diagram. Red paint reflects only red light, but absorbs green light. Green paint reflects only green light but absorbs red light. The result is a mix of different wavelengths, but some of it gets absorbed, putting you in the center between black and white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-02-19T17:11:32.177" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T17:11:32.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7942" CreationDate="2020-02-14T21:38:19.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A modeling epoxy does exactly what you want for both the structural and the surface finish you want and can be acquired in large amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same kind of epoxy used in the recently popular river tables. You can pour it in thick layers (or all at once) into your mold, let it cure, remove your mold, sand and somewhat polish it, then pour on another thin layer to get the slick &quot;wet look&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many epoxies can be colored/tinted, which is what they do for river tables. It comes clear, then they use tints/dyes/powders/pigments to make it the color they want. If you wanted to get fancy, you could do multiple pours of epoxy with multiple colors. If you do them at the same time, you might get a marbles look. Waiting until the epoxy is set in between each pour will get sudden transitions. Then you leave the final/finish coat as clear to see what you created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxies like this generally come with instructions on how to pour epoxy on top of itself, so follow those instructions to get good adhesion between layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T21:38:19.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7942" CreationDate="2020-02-16T22:47:59.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll add another answer that may more directly address what you asked, and is very relevant to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/7948/8251&quot;&gt;computercarguy's answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question sounds like you're contemplating an approach to create a reasonably thin shell that follows the sink contours.  You can do that either as a thick coating or series of layers on a form, or cast it in a two-part mold that constrains the thickness.  A different approach would be to create a form for the cavity (the shape of the hole), put that inside a big rectangular form, and cast a big block that has the right shape on what becomes the visible side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question describes using a viscous epoxy for the structural shell so it better stays where you put it, and a non-viscous one for a finish coat, possibly by adjusting the viscosity of the same epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/7943/8251&quot;&gt;Chris H's answer describes&lt;/a&gt;, you can adjust the viscosity of epoxy somewhat, but it affects other characteristics, so that may not achieve the result you want.  For example, if you chill it, you may slow down its flow, but you also slow down the cure.  It will slump slower but also cure slower.  So you will still end up with it slumping; the whole process will just take longer.  Thinning or thickening by adding other materials introduces other side effects or changes in characteristics.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to change the viscosity, you can just use epoxies that already have the viscosity you need (or are best for the application).  There are resin systems designed for casting, and ones designed for finish coating (and there are compatible ones so you can use them together).  The casting resins are designed for layers up to several inches thick.  The finishing resins are typically designed for layers less than about 1/4&quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each is optimized for its purpose and there are problems trying to use them for the opposite purpose.  The viscosities are actually the opposite of what's described in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting resin tends to be low viscosity, often close to water, with a slow cure rate.  When you apply a finish coat to something like a tabletop (or sink), the process is typically to allow the resin to flow down the sides and off (wasting some).  Casting resin is generally too thin for that purpose; most of it would run off.  And because casting resin takes longer to cure, it increases the risk of getting dust (or bugs) stuck in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resin designed for finish-coating tabletops is very viscous, which produces a thicker layer and limits how much runs off and is wasted.  It is also designed to cure quickly, which generates a lot of heat.  If you try to cast something more than about 1/4&quot; thick, the heat it generates destroys the epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a good discussion of the differences here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://clearcastingresin.com/casting-resin-vs-table-top-epoxy-resin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Casting Resin Vs Table Top Epoxy Resin&lt;/a&gt;.  It has a short embedded summary video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK2XK1zPupY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(direct link here)&lt;/a&gt;, that will save some reading time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to create a shell by coating a form, as described in the question, it would probably be best to do everything (structural shell and finish layer) with the viscous material designed for finishing tabletops.  You can build it up in layers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to try making it as a large casting using just a cavity mold, use low-viscosity casting resin for the structure.  With a good mold, you wouldn't need a finish layer.  But it the surface requires cleanup and you want to add a finish layer, use the high-viscosity resin designed for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T10:00:27.513" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T10:00:27.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-17T14:33:19.997" Score="0" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;So recently I pulled my mint condition -or so i thought- silver sharpie out from my art box. I never dipped it in anything or something, but for some reason, the nib has turned brown and only a small spot actually writes okay. I only ever used it a few times and now it is not metallic, but instead watery and grey. not to mention it leaves brown liquid on my paper.. anyone know what to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8903" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T14:33:19.997" Title="How can I fix my silver sharpie?" Tags="|drawing|paper|markers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-02-19T15:55:28.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7957" CreationDate="2020-02-18T12:28:10.177" Score="3" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like I'm about to answer my own question, but I'll ask anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that when I draw mountains, I'm not really sure how to proceed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Because of how textured mountains look from a distance, it almost seems chaotic, as if they don't have a pattern for the rocks they are made up of.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm also not sure whether or not the reference that I'm looking at has trees, grass, or dirt going/growing up the mountain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then there is the problem of atmospheric perspective, which can be a little strange as I am not exactly sure what color it is the more distant a mountain is (not knowing how dark or light it is).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, the colors of the mountain, and the different types of colors that are used at different times of the day and during different kinds of weather, are hard to discern. I have trouble picking out the colors for the sunny side of the rock of the mountain and shadow side of the mountain witch is lit up by the reflection of the sky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that when working from reference you shouldn't completely copy colors and maybe add your own things in, but I'm not very confident and not experienced enough to do that yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work in Photoshop, if mentioning that is of any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uvaq8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here are a few reference images&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8907" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T19:57:08.503" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T06:16:41.097" Title="How does one approach drawing mountains for landscape/environment concept art" Tags="|painting|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-02-18T16:11:35.133" Score="2" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started doing mosaics made up of thin scrap aluminum.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is about my first first mosaic 'prototype' that I am doing which measures 28 x 34 inches. The aluminum scrap material weighs very close to 3 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoy building these, but it is a money making venture, so I need to keep the cost low and aesthetically, I like a minimalist frame. So, the design constraints are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep the cost under $20 &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Build time: &amp;lt;1 hour with practice (simple home garage workshop, tablesaw and tools)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aesthetically simple design&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;28&quot; x 34&quot; mosaic (plus maybe the frame border)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight of mosaic pieces: ~3 pounds plus adhesive&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was to glue the pieces to to ~5/8&quot; BCX plywood painted black (BCX is sanded smooth on one side); I like the simple look of it, but at 28&quot; x 34&quot; (plus maybe a border) I am afraid it will warp.  I am open-minded and will consider any material, not just wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;  The scrap pieces used in the mosaic are small (2 inches or less), so some type of backing will be necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8909" LastEditorUserId="8909" LastEditDate="2020-02-18T23:11:49.223" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T05:57:48.307" Title="Picture Frame/Mount for Mosaic, ~28&quot; x 34&quot; (Max Size) , &lt;$20" Tags="|material-selection|wood|upcycling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2020-02-18T19:10:29.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Wood&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BCX shouldn't warp on you, especially at 5/8&quot; thick. It's rated for outdoor usage*, so as long as you treat/finish it correctly, you shouldn't have a problem with it warping. You could probably get away with 1/2&quot;, depending on how much weight you actually add with the mosaic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as finishing/treating it goes, that depends on how you are using it. Gluing things to one side will usually seal that side, depending on the glue you use. Using a standard wood glue might not stick to your mosaic pieces and may not seal that side, but using a silicone or epoxy glue will seal it, while also likely sticking to your mosaic pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply painting the wood should be enough to seal the edges and back side. You can also stain and use other finishes, like shellac or varnish, if you want a different look to the back. If your artwork is going to be outside, make sure the finish is rated for the normal moisture and temperature range in your area. Example considerations: don't use an interior paint for an outdoor exhibit, don't use a finish that isn't water resistant if it's going to see a lot of precipitation or humidity, don't leave bare wood in a low humidity and high heat desert, and don't bother with an expensive or time consuming finish for an indoor exhibit unless you really want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get chemically treated plywood for outdoor use, but paint and glues might not stick to it. And if it's chemically treated, you don't want to paint or seal all edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;*Types of Exterior Plywood&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CDX is the most common exterior plywood grade. It comes in 3/4-, 5/8- and 1/2-inch thicknesses. Appearance stamps on plywood range from cabinet-grade (A) to construction grade (C and D). Exterior plywood carries an X stamp, which identifies it as suitable for use outdoors. Beside CDX, you can also find better grades, such as ABX, ACX and even BCX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hunker.com/13401518/what-types-of-plywood-can-be-used-outdoors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hunker.com/13401518/what-types-of-plywood-can-be-used-outdoors&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Metals&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also think about using a sheet of aluminum or steel, although that'll likely cost you more than the plywood. I'd suggest 1/4&quot; thick for rigidity purposes. You might be able to get away with 1/8&quot; or 3/16&quot; thick, which should be less expensive, but then you could get into more issues with expansion and contraction of the piece warping it, if it's going to see extreme temperature differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With steel, you'll still need to seal the unglued side, since it'll rust even indoors. That's as simple as painting it, most of the time. If you want a better look or a more durable finish, you can even powder coat it. Aluminum doesn't need a finish, but it can look better if it does. Or you can do a wide variety of finishing to the aluminum itself, such as brushing, scuff sanding, or polishing. Aluminum can also be anodized a variety of colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With both steel and aluminum, to reduce costs, you can use expanded sheets, but then you risk warping again, as well as the glue not having as much surface area to grip. And if you want something that gives more surface area, don't really care about costs, and has a really neat pattern, you can use diamond plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even 1/4&quot; steel and aluminum can be cut with a circular saw with an abrasive disc, an acetylene torch, or plasma cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Plastics&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are definitely reasons to use a sheet of plastic for your backer. It can make it light weight, transparent or translucent, weather resistant, chemical resistant, warp resistant, and a few other things, too. The problem with plastic backing is that it's harder to find glues that'll adhere to plastic and other materials, such as metals. It's not impossible, but they are usually more expensive and may not work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though plastics won't warp from humidity, they can still warp, or even crack, due to temperature. Many plastics are stronger than glass, but they still tend to have properties similar to glass. A piece of polycarbonate is much stronger than acrylic and many acrylics are much stronger than glass when it comes to an impact, but due to age and high heat, can turn yellow or become brittle. There's outdoor rated plastics for signs, but they cost more, too. Outdoor rated plastics may also be harder to find and when you do find them, you might only be able to buy them in 4'x8' sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastics likely won't need a finish, unless you want to protect them from UV or reduce glare, and even then, you can sometimes get it from the manufacturer with that coating. Outdoor plastics usually have UV coatings on them already. Plastics with a P95 or P99 coating have an anti-glare coating on one or both sides. Frosting is also an anti-glare treatment and has a completely different look, like frost on the grass in your lawn on a chilly winter morning. The other (P95 and P99) coatings are clear and don't interfere with color or translucency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the size you're looking at, 1/4&quot; thickness might be all you need, but 5/16&quot; to 1/2&quot; might be better to add rigidity. Plastics tend to cost more linearly as you increase the size and thickness. A 1/2&quot; piece of acrylic will usually cost twice as much as a 1/4&quot; piece the same dimensions. However, 1/4&quot; plastics are much more common to find and can come in a wide variety of colors, while most of the 1/2&quot; plastics I've found come in clear, white, and black, with few exceptions, unless you want to spend some serious amount of money (over $500 for a 4'x8' sheet) to get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, plastics can be cut like glass or wood. You can score plastics and they will snap on the score line like glass. (And just like glass, if you don't do it right, it won't break on the score line.) They can also be cut using a finish blade on a circular saw. Some plastics, not all, can be cut using a laser cutter, although you need a pretty large area laser cutter for the size you're looking at. Many plastic suppliers will do cut to size for you, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastEditorUserId="6228" LastEditDate="2020-02-18T23:32:14.727" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T23:32:14.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2020-02-18T21:45:26.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/7954/8251&quot;&gt;computercarguy's answer&lt;/a&gt; covers a lot of territory.  I'll supplement that with a few other ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sounds like the artwork has an &quot;upcycled&quot; appearance, being made from scrap pieces.  You can carry that theme into the frame by making it out of scrap materials, also.  For example, a simple picture frame made from pallet wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can stick with the metal theme by making a simple frame from metal, possibly recycled.  A few possibilities: metal tubing (square or round),  angle iron, simple wrought iron design, or rebar bent into a rectangle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joining aluminum to another metal, like steel or copper, it would be a good idea to keep the metals out of direct contact because they can interact and corrode.  You could do that by applying a finish to both surfaces first, or use a layer of a material like epoxy to join the surfaces.  If you screw the art to the frame, you can separate the metals with a thin plastic washer that you cut from something like a clear PETE plastic bottle like soda or bottled water comes in.  If the sculpture is mounted to a backing board, you can avoid the issue by fastening the backing board to the frame.    &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to go in the other direction with the frame.  If you make your own, you can make a pretty nice frame with under $20 in materials.  It doesn't need to be fancy, just precision-made with a nice finish.  Coupling art made from upcycled scraps with a fine frame can make the result look more upscale.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't necessarily need a backing if the components are strong enough to not bend under their own weight and are securely joined.  Pieces like you describe are often done without one.  You can do it with no backing or frame, or no backing but fastened to some kind of frame at a number of points around the outside edge.  You can get ideas from a place like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.touchofclass.com/metal-wall-sculptures/c/20302/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Touch of Class; Metal Wall Sculptures&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the materials in the sculpture aren't strong, or might be subject to handling, another approach is to put the finished piece in a shadow box.  It might be enough to just use an open, box-style frame.  Or you can add protection by covering the front with glass or clear plastic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shadow box also introduces the ability to augment the art with lighting.  You can embed LED strip lighting into a shadow box frame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another idea for a backing -- a mirror.  You can build the sculpture by gluing the pieces to the mirror, or glue the finished work to the mirror.  The mirror's reflection can add a degree of complexity to the appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-02-18T22:09:04.533" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T22:09:04.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2020-02-19T05:47:49.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest to build the frame from &lt;strong&gt;slats of wood&lt;/strong&gt;. You should be able to find them quite cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You fix the support for the mosaic on the frame - &quot;sheets&quot; of &lt;strong&gt;fiberglass mesh&lt;/strong&gt;. The mesh is very light and gives extra strength to the frame. Also cheap and easy to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the frame itself, there are two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create a working frame from any wood (suitable to your needs), apply a decorative second frame on top.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create one frame (or buy it readily made to the proper dimensions, or order one), apply the mesh on it. Continue working with the &quot;final&quot; frame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For option 2, you may want to protect the surface of the frame with something (e.g. kitchen plastic wrapping foil), to avoid damaging it with glue, scratches and what-not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-02-20T05:57:48.307" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T05:57:48.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7952" CreationDate="2020-02-19T12:12:52.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any experience with Photoshop textures, so I'll limit my answer to general information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Colors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First pick the &quot;pure&quot; color of the rock in bright daylight, which will be the base color of your mountain. In the first reference image of your question, that's a dark grey with a tint of brown. For other types of rock (like sandstone or marble) the base color can be a very different one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then adapt the color according to where the sun is situated in your picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mountainside facing the sun reflects the yellow sunlight. Add more yellow or light brown to the color on this side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mountainside opposite of the sun reflects the blue sky. Add more light or dark blue to the color on this side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sides perpendicular to the sun (neither facing the sun directly, nor facing away from it) should be painted in the base color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to paint a mountain at sunset, the sky is darker and the sun is red instead of yellow, so add red to the base color for the sunny side and dark blue to the shaded side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When painting snow, the base color of snow is pale blue or grey. only the snow facing the sun is bright white.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Perspective&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common way to add perspective to a mountain range is to put a thin veil of sky color behind each mountain. That means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rock base color for the mountain closest to you is unchanged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the mountain behind that, add a little light blue to the base color, then further mix this adapted base color as described above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the next mountain behind that, add even more blue to the base color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the sky has a different color (like sunset), add this color to the base color instead of blue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to paint a foggy / misty scene, add light grey or white to the base color (your 8th reference image with the horned spires shows this well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, you would start painting from the background to the foreground. When working with Photoshop, you can add a new layer, stick with the same base color and add a semi-transparent veil on top of the layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bare Rock Texture&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This becomes relevant at a closer perspective than the general chunky outline of a mountain. It determines how you fill in the outline with a pattern that looks natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you need to imagine how the mountain was formed during millions of years. Reference images from different places in the world may give you a feeling for how rock corrodes in different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fold_mountains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fold mountain&lt;/a&gt;? Then there should be regular, reoccuring lines running in parallel (as shown in the snow deposits in your first reference). These lines can be at any angle you choose and even curved (as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faltengebirge#/media/Datei:Folding_Gasteretal.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reference&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fault_block#Fault-block_mountains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fault block mountain&lt;/a&gt;? Then there should be high cliffs with vertical fracture lines. There can also be horizontal deposit lines in different base colors, depending on the different kinds of soil that formed the mountain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stratovolcano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;volcanic mountain&lt;/a&gt;? Then the lines should all originate from a central point slightly above the top and spread out towards the base, reflecting how the volcano expelled lava and how corroding rocks and ash deposits slowly slide from the top down to the base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other &quot;Stuff&quot;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mountain is never just a structure of bare, clean swept rocks. There are deposits of soil, snow, ash or other things accumulating on the rock surface. There are plants growing on this soil. All this adds a rounded slope to the area and another color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purposefully leave this stuff out to create a more jagged, dramatic landscape or you can add more of it to give the landscape a wheathered and rounded off look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These kinds of deposits tend to be few on the top of a mountain, filling occasional gaps at a steep angle. Towards the base they become more and filled with more material, resulting in flat angles and round outlines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-02-19T13:49:46.173" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T13:49:46.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="55" CreationDate="2020-02-19T17:12:32.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A doublet in this case being faux gemstone composed of two bonded layers of different materials, usually glass supporting a softer rare stone. You would need perfectly flat surfaces on the bond to get this to work, so if your tools cannot provide that then the answer would be no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T17:12:32.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2020-02-23T02:57:42.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually provide acrylic cut outs for patterns. Strong, durable acrylic sheets laser cut to the pattern size/shape. My customers then use a rotary cutter to trace the outside of their acrylic template without worry of damaging their pattern. Vastly improves their repeatability, and speed. This niche market was brought to my attention by several veteran seamstresses and they all rave about it. Initially i was worried they would experience problems, as at my best i personally am a novice with a needle and was skeptical it could be profitable for them. It's apparently worth the cost as I continue to get repeat customers for new patterns and expanding my clientele. Has worked out well for hat makers as i can create reliable patterns, in multiple hat sizes, and they can simply pull the corresponding template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find me on Etsy/Google/Facebook/IG at ZapLabs if this is something that interests you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know if i'm going to be necromancing this thread, but i feel this is one of the best answers to this question, if, you plan to be making a lot of the same pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8921" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T02:57:42.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2020-02-24T12:12:18.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to try the method of using ammonia to ageing the pages of my journal. I followed the guidelines exactly how it's described on a different page. I had the book attached by string to the lid of an airtight container with the book open and the pages spread. I used almost an entire bottle of household ammonia, but after 2 days, there was no difference in the colour of the pages. I then resealed the container and waited for a whole week, but still there was no difference. I've now had my book in the container for a total of two weeks, but the pages are as bright and white as ever. The only result is that the leather binding has gotten lots of really dark and ugly blotches all over and the book reeks of ammonia. I have no idea how to fix it, but I'm trying. In short, the ammonia did nothing for the pages, but instead ruined the binding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, I have to warn about using this method. I now believe that using ammonia to age paper must be a myth, that I have busted. Don't do this to your book, find another method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8925" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T12:12:18.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7962" CreationDate="2020-02-24T15:31:51.393" Score="1" ViewCount="1308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently created a commission piece made out of stretched canvas and acrylic. It was specifically made for bathroom decor on a wall. I didn't realize until later that the bathroom would have high humidity. So now my paranoia has sunk in. I have been doing acrylic paintings for almost a decade. I have used different variants of sealers. Sprays, and glues. Feel more confident about the Mod Podge because it is more a glue consistency, which would give it a lot more of a shield from the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, can Mod Podge stand up against humidity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Crha9m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Crha9m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing some research this morning on the humidity and temp of Mod Podge used as a sealer. Haven't come across any further detail on high temperatures of Mod Podge, or a lot of detail on the humidity of Mod Podge as a sealer. The painting is in Arizona. Even though it has low humidity it doesn't count for the fact it is in the bathroom with a shower(which I didn't consider at the time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Come across forums on Etsy talking about humidity and getting the Mod Podge to dry with fans. That isn't what I am looking for, or asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plaidonline.com has PDF talking about sealers and suggests to use a Mod Podge Adhesive spray after putting the Mod Podge sealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This piece of art was done for a relative of mine. So there isn't a lot at stake with this piece. I just wanted some more information, from others experiences. So I don't make a similar mistake next time. I could also consider again just going with an sealer spray. The Mod Podge was what I had on hand at the time of the painting. I've been just trying to make do with what I have on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found on modpodgerocksblog.com | Wasn't sure of its content was accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lE2Oe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lE2Oe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon further investigation, it seems to have a lot of detail related to Mod Podge. Mod Podge does not have an official website. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbXVp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbXVp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2020-02-26T17:32:12.347" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T17:32:12.347" Title="Humidity tolerance of Mod Podge" Tags="|painting|sealer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7961" CreationDate="2020-02-25T07:02:32.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might resist air humidity for a while, but I would opt for a more water resistant variant like &amp;quot;Outdoor Mod Podge&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Dishwasher Safe Mod Podge&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following information is taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://modpodgerocksblog.com/is-mod-podge-waterproof/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Is Mod Podge Waterproof?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mod Podge is a craft supply made up of several ingredients, including vinyl acetate. The combination produces a product that is somewhat water resistant, but not waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a few drops of water end up on your Mod Podge project you can wipe them away with ease. You aren’t going to ruin your craft with just a little bit of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if water is on your Mod Podge project for an extended period of time, you might notice some clouding. Typically when you remove the water the Mod Podge will slowly dry to clear again. However, you might see some permanent cloudiness and/or rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your artwork isn't subjected to the water stream from the shower, it should be fine. Usually in a bathroom there are times of high humidity, followed by longer times of dryer air. The normal Mod Podge might get sticky or cloudy over time (I have no experience with that), but more resistant variants should resist mist and humidity long enough until the air is dry again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T07:02:32.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7965" CreationDate="2020-02-26T06:22:28.367" Score="7" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a necklace with a bunch of chains. I found a picture of a type of chain that I want to buy (on Etsy or at a craft store), but I don't know what to ask/search for. I would describe the chain as kind of a flat mesh look, like alternating bricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pictures: I am looking for the tiny gold chain that appears a few times in this larger necklace in the first picture (it's four bricks 'tall', you really have to zoom in - sorry I wish there was a way I could circle it), but I've added two other pictures with similar chains to better see what it looks like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2DL4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2DL4s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JkbPg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JkbPgs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ja1f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ja1fs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(Click to see larger images)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8929" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-08T18:28:17.390" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T17:29:37.173" Title="What is the name for this type of chain?" Tags="|jewelry|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7964" CreationDate="2020-02-27T01:40:36.543" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in no way a jewelry maker, or jewelry specialist. Mostly good at looking up information. Since art is in my field(of enjoyment), spent some time researching the types of chain that was described above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the type of chain you are looking for is called, &quot;panther chain.&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8icr1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8icr1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T01:40:36.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7968" CreationDate="2020-02-27T20:40:05.217" Score="2" ViewCount="6000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to sell small pots and as part of my display I'd like to &quot;plant&quot; fake plants in some of them. I'd like it to look as real as possible, so my goal is to have the plant &quot;growing&quot; out of a solid block of what looks like soil. I'd like to be able to grab the plant and lift it out along with the attached soil bottom then plunk the whole thing into a new pot as I sell them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure exactly how to make the dirt bulb for the plant. I was thinking of molding it by pouring something granular (granulated + dyed cork maybe?) and glue or resin into a sacrificial Tupperware of similar size to my pots, sticking the plant in and letting it dry. The only thing I'm worried about is making sure the whole things stays in shape without crumbling once it's out of the Tupperware. Any suggestions on fake dirt materials and/or glues to use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8934" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T10:43:30.813" Title="How can I make molded fake dirt?" Tags="|adhesives|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7966" CreationDate="2020-02-27T21:55:10.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not use &lt;strong&gt;real dirt&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can buy (or find) potting soil quite easily, which is relatively 'clean'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is &lt;strong&gt;coffee grounds&lt;/strong&gt;. To make it as dark as regular soil, you can add a little black ink to it and mix it with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases it's best to let it dry first, then mix it with the resin or (maybe slightly watered down) glue inside a Tupperware container or a paper cup, which is both easier to cut away and less wasteful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resin or glue has to be waterproof (in case the plant accidentally gets watered), transparent (to let the (fake) dirt steal the show), hard curing (to keep everything properly in place), and preferably matte drying (since glossy dirt will look unrealistically wet or muddy).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many resins and glues can be used for this - even wood glue, for example, will work fine. Visit your nearest hardware store, and look around or ask someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T21:55:10.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7966" CreationDate="2020-02-27T21:58:13.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Model train enthusiasts have to be creative to get the results they desire. Some of them can be really demanding, so I jumped out on the 'net to see how they do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One site, &lt;a href=&quot;http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/177439.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cs.trains.com&lt;/a&gt; suggests using powdered paint from Crayola:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I recently bought some &quot;Crayola Powder Paint&quot;, available in local&#xA;  craft stores or on-line from places like the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.misterart.com/g1306/Crayola-Powder-Paint.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.misterart.com/g1306/Crayola-Powder-Paint.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I mixed black and brown in equal amounts into an empty &quot;spice shaker&quot;.&#xA;  You know, the shakers that come loaded with paprika, oregano, etc.&#xA;  that have small holes on top for shaking out the spices.  I spread my&#xA;  50/50 mixture of Elmer's White Glue and water like I always do for&#xA;  scenicing an area and then shook on the Crayola Powder Paint.  Before&#xA;  it dried, I added the usual other textures, using Woodland Scenics&#xA;  different light and coarse materials.  When the area dried, I had what&#xA;  looked like real dirt.  And, it was flat, like real dirt, without the&#xA;  &quot;loft&quot; I mentioned before.  I also used this stuff to sprinkle over&#xA;  already-sceniced areas to blend colors together.  This stuff is cheap&#xA;  and could scenic a lot of area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I think I'm going to buy some other colors, like red, yellow and green&#xA;  and obviously could make a whole assortment of different color ground&#xA;  cover by varying the amounts of each color in the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link is broken, but searching for the product brought up a number of links to purchase &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B005E9KOWG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;powdered tempera paint&lt;/a&gt;, which appears to be the same stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get good dirt from a train layout maker, where can you get it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T21:58:13.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7972" CreationDate="2020-02-28T17:43:11.223" Score="5" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sewing machine, a Singer Featherweight, only has the option of a straight stitch.  I can adjust the length and tension, but can't do a zig-zag stitch.  Is it possible to sew a stretchy knit fabric on this machine? My goal is to make a dress with a thin Rayon knit fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8937" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T20:40:19.367" Title="How to sew a knit fabric with a straight stitch machine?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7970" CreationDate="2020-03-02T19:16:42.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can sew knit fabrics with straight stitch. Notice t-shirts, they are made of knit jersey. When you sew woven fabric on the bias, that creates stretch on an otherwise non stretchy material. Here are tips, when I get somewhere with a better signal, I will upload pics to demonstrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to be sure to use a ball point needle for knit fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where you sew, will have less stretch the shorter the stitch-see pics not stretched and stretched.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kgun0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kgun0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;not stretching &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JyCOI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JyCOI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stretching&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fray. The part that worries people about sewing knit fabric without a zig zag or overlock, is that it may fray. A few options - French seam, double stitch, use fray check &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you’re concerned about jamming your machine, do not pull the fabric or it will become wavy. You can use stabilizer to strengthen the seam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps. Here’s a pic of a jersey knit skit I made as well. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjZ08.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjZ08.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;jersey knit with woven ruffle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It’s an elastic waist and the ruffle at the bottom is woven eyelet fringe.&#xA;It’s great.&#xA;Good luck!&#xA;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2020-03-03T16:20:54.207" LastActivityDate="2020-03-03T16:20:54.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="56" CreationDate="2020-03-04T11:58:11.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose is to prepare a flake for improved manipulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abrasion is a process also referred to as '&lt;em&gt;raking&lt;/em&gt;': &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Raking is the action of carefully dragging a course abrader or other device &lt;strong&gt;to remove &quot;micro&quot; flakes from the edge of a biface or preform&lt;/strong&gt; to change it's [sic] shape or give support to an edge before actual abrading is done prior to percussion or pressure work.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flintknappingtools.com/terms.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Edges being worked [especially while soft hammer knapping] must be ground dull prior to flake removal. &lt;strong&gt;This dulling helps prevent edge collapse&lt;/strong&gt;. A piece of sandstone, very soft limestone, or other soft rock may be used to dull the edge.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://archaeology.uiowa.edu/flintknapping-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The process [of lithic reduction] also involves frequent preparation of the edge &lt;strong&gt;to form better platforms for pressing off flakes&lt;/strong&gt;. This is usually accomplished with abraiders made from a coarse-grained stone such as basalt or quartzite.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithic_reduction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, the abrasion allows for the force to be distributed more evenly and controllably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T11:58:11.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7976" CreationDate="2020-03-04T21:40:30.627" Score="4" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to paint after work, but as the days get shorter here, I find myself spending more time painting while under the illumination of incandescent light bulbs. My ability to distinguish shades of yellow ochre are diminished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of light bulbs or other lighting will give me a good enough approximation of natural sky light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8662" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T07:53:07.543" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T07:53:07.543" Title="Best sort of artificial light for indoor painting" Tags="|lighting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7974" CreationDate="2020-03-04T22:59:36.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At one time, people would get plant grow lights that mimicked sunlight.  Those were pretty much limited to fluorescent tubes that went in &quot;shoplight&quot; type fixtures.  Those are still available, but &quot;daylight&quot; bulbs are now also readily available in most bulb styles (shape and base) in fluorescent tubes, compact fluorescent, and LED, as a standard choice for color spectrum.  So you can get &quot;daylight&quot; illumination in pretty much any fixture or lamp you're using to light your work.  Note, though, that you can't go by just a &quot;daylight&quot; designation, as this might actually be bluer than sunlight, so yellows won't be accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bulbs are labeled in a number of different ways.  There are descriptive terms for ranges of color temperature, roughly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warm white/soft white: 2700K-3000K (yellowish, like incandescent)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cool white/bright white: 3500K-4100K (white)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;roughly 3500K-3800K is sometimes labeled &quot;neutral white&quot; because it lacks a color cast. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;daylight: 5000K-6500K (bluish)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5000K-5765K is sometimes labeled &quot;full spectrum&quot; because it most closely resembles sunlight; 6500K is more blue/less yellow than actual sunlight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the most accurate color, you might want to use neutral white.  To get colors the most similar to sunlight, look for &quot;full spectrum&quot;, or &quot;daylight&quot; close to 5000K.  Going by the color temperature will be a more accurate selection than using the descriptive terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also look at the Color Rendering Index or CRI number.  It's a scale that goes from 0-100 and reflects the ability to show true colors across the spectrum.  The closer you get to 100, the more accurate colors will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-03-05T00:20:35.250" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T00:20:35.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7974" CreationDate="2020-03-05T08:34:49.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your ultimate goal is to replicate natural sunlights. Have a look at a comparison between different light sources and natural sunlight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJVwV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJVwV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Emission-spectra-of-different-light-sources-a-incandescent-tungsten-light-bulb-b_fig1_312320039&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Emission spectra of different light sources:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (a) incandescent tungsten light bulb;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (b) fluorescent white light bulb;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (c) energy efficient light bulb;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (d) white LED light bulb;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (e) blue LED light bulb;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (f) black LED light bulb;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (g) morning sunlight;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (h) midday sunlight;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (i) sunlight at sunset; and&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (j) comparison of sunlight at midday (red), morning (yellow) and at sunset (green).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We grew up with incandescent tungsten light bulbs in our homes and are used to how this unique light changes the hues of colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LED light is actually closer to natural light, with the notable exception of a peak in blue and a lack of red. There are some really good &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ledrise.eu/blog/sunlike-leds-reveal-color-and-depth-of-art/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LEDs that replicate natural light&lt;/a&gt; and are used in the Louvre and other museums, but the quality of those is lightyears away from customer-grade LEDs. Cheap LEDs create a light most people find unappealing and the light isn't scattered as evenly as with conventional light bulbs, creating sharp shadows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For creating art, indirect lighting and an additional color filter can greatly improve LED light quality, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.led-professional.com/resources-1/articles/led-light-spectrum-enhancement-with-transparent-pigmented-glazes-by-light-spectrum-glazes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as described here&lt;/a&gt;. Compare the spectrum of different light sources and buy one that gets as close to the full spectrum of sunlight as possible. This will not be cheap, but it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional solution (thank you for the idea!) is to use an LED and an incandescent light source at the same time. They compensate for each others shortcommings almost perfectly. I'm just not sure weather you can use both combined in the same lamp (because they have extremely different energy requirements) or if that could damage one of the light sources or the cabling in the lamp. I propose using 2 seperate lamps just to be on the safe side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-03-07T07:19:16.117" LastActivityDate="2020-03-07T07:19:16.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="55" CreationDate="2020-03-05T14:09:06.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It seems that, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diamondpacific.com/thegenie.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt;, your Diamond Pacific Genie is able to flatten and polish gemstones using the &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;right hand wheel&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; as a platform for, e.g.,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Lapcraft &amp;quot;No Hole&amp;quot; discs [like &lt;a href=&quot;https://suvalapidary.com/collections/genie/products/laps-magnetic-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;]. They screw into the right hand wheel adaptor of the Genie, giving you a 6&amp;quot; diameter lap with no bothersome center hole.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could also look into exchanging your trim saw blade with a polishing stone, something that is probably dependent on the model and type of connection.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Not to mention that it can be dangerous, as trim saws have different speeds and were designed for different pressure types and lighter attachments.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Try at your own peril :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=flat%20lap%20homemade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a multitude of tutorials on homemade flat lap machines&lt;/a&gt; available online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I have no experience with gemstone crafts, and contrary to rebusB's answer, I suspect two not completely flat surfaces will bond perfectly fine and invisibly when using the right bonding: a slow-curing epoxy might work, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rings-things.com/Products/Specialty-and-Craft-Glues/Adhesive-GS-Hypo-Cement.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G-S Hypo Cement&lt;/a&gt;, with which - provided they can be made fluid enough to fill even the smallest visible imperfections - you will be able to join the compounds without a clear visual boundary. As long as the bonding is clear and as thin as possible, I don't think this will be very obvious. You can heat up the glue a little to get rid of air bubbles, as mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gemologyonline.com/Forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=170902#p170902&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's hard to find anything to back up this claim, though, so I suggest trying it out with inexpensive materials (some pieces of glass, perhaps, as this will make any imperfection readily visible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, as a friendly reminder: be sure to wear respirator masks when polishing. You don't want &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;metal fume fever&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silicosis&lt;/a&gt;, or similar illnesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T14:09:06.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7679" CreationDate="2020-03-08T00:25:32.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Flora stated, if you try to put acrylic on top of the graphite drawing, the graphite is going to smear into the paint, and it is to have streaks of graphite into the paint. Causing it to not have a solid color. Also as well, depending on what paper it is, it can become wrinkled or start seeping through the back of the paper. Unless you have paper specifically for acrylic paint. Canvas, wood boards, or acrylic paper would be a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting in acrylic, want to start with lighter colors as the base, and add more layers continually on top of the under layers. Also recommended to have a base coat as the first layer. So it gives the acrylic something to stick to. The fun thing about acrylic paint is that it is super easy to cover up with other colors. Can even cover up darker colors with lighter colors. It dries super fast, so it doesn't take much time to add lots of layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-03-08T00:25:32.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7876" CreationDate="2020-03-09T17:37:45.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When knitting straight, the beginning of a new row is a stitch on which the working yarn is connected. When knitting straight with circular needles, one knits till one exhausts all the stitches in the working row, flips the needles (such that working needle is now in the opposite hand), and starts a new row by first working the last worked stitch, with the opposite side of the knitting facing us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, while knitting in the round, once the knitting is joined, one never encounters the last worked stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: Many airlines have arbitrary restrictions on straight needles. Circular needles are great for getting through security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8960" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T17:37:45.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-10T09:11:40.680" Score="5" ViewCount="3882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stripped the old layer of the paint off of my Nendoroid and Figma PVC action figures and want to repaint them. I don't want them to be flashy and reflective and look dopey, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any technique I can use to give them a matte finish as close to the original as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8966" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-08-10T13:19:08.710" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T13:19:08.710" Title="Matte repainting technique for action figures" Tags="|painting|paint|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7983" CreationDate="2020-03-10T13:00:15.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How glossy or matte a paint is after drying depends on the chemical composition of the paint alone. There is no technique that can make a glossy paint look matte or vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you should use &quot;flat&quot; or &quot;matte finish&quot; paints to paint your action figures or coat them with a matte varnish after painting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some additives (especially for acryllic paints) that can change the finish of paints, like gloss medium or matte medium, but these work only to a limited degree. In my experience, making a matte paint glossy seems to be easier than making a glossy paint matte, so I propose buying matte paints to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many paint manufacturers give information about the properties of their paints by printing symbols on the paints. Here's an example of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.schmincke.de/fileadmin/downloads/pdf/Broschueren_2016/College_Acrylic_DE_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schmincke paints&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/COALc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/COALc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example I expect the transparent / semi transparent colors to have a smooth, glossy finish and the opaque colors to have a matte finish, but sometimes you can't count on this correlation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T13:00:15.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7983" CreationDate="2020-03-10T13:59:17.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, if you haven't already, disassemble the figures. This will allow for easier reach of those parts that are usually obscured, a more even application of the paint, and a cleaner colouring around the joints.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can carefully use a blow drier to make the plastic a little less rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash the figure or parts with a little soap to get rid of any dirt that might prevent the paint from adhering to the surface.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This might also be a good time to trim or sand excessive plastic (like edges).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's not always necessary, but I suggest priming the figures with an acrylic ground layer, preferably sprayed on (using an airbrush and NOT cans, as they contain solvents - an exception being Duplicolor Vinyl &amp;amp; Fabric, as a user on the thefwoosh forums &lt;a href=&quot;http://thefwoosh.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=92858#p2760463&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;suggests&lt;/a&gt;, as this apparently &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; work on soft plastics) to retain a smooth surface, but at least applied in thin, diluted layers. &#xA;Apart from allowing the paint to have a stronger bonding, this will also form a neutral 'canvas' to see how the colours work together, and to ascertain the colours won't differ a lot from how they are advertised (you can also try out the paints on similar material or parts that will be hard to see on the finished figure [like the soles of the feet]).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now you can &lt;strong&gt;paint your action figure using matt(e) / flat acrylic paints&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can find those in your local hobby store, or online. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use regular acrylic paints, and seal them off with a matte finisher&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And again, if by hand, instead of using an airbrush, always paint in thin, diluted layers. Also make sure the sealer can be used for soft plastics/PVC, as some people experienced the layer getting tacky again after a while.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Noteworthy is that that same poster mentioned earlier suggests not using any sealer at all, as they always have a certain amount of sheen, even if advertised as matte or flat, with Testors Dullcote being the sole exception in that user's experience.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always make sure you work in a dust-free environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;Some additional resources to browse through for some advice:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/ActionFigures/comments/5unmtp/best_paint_for_marvel_legends/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/ActionFigures/comments/5unmtp/best_paint_for_marvel_legends/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://myfigurecollection.net/blog/7299&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://myfigurecollection.net/blog/7299&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forum.rebelscum.com/threads/question-about-what-paints-to-use-to-custom-paint-figures.1089439/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://forum.rebelscum.com/threads/question-about-what-paints-to-use-to-custom-paint-figures.1089439/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T13:59:17.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7983" CreationDate="2020-03-10T17:34:40.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes, and theoretically, there are a number of options.  But as a practical matter, you will probably need to find paint with the desired characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glossy vs. matte is a characteristic of the finish.  Glossy has a very smooth surface that reflects light uniformly.  Matte has a surface that is irregular at a microscopic level and scatters the reflected light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint is a mix of pigment, which is a very fine powder that doesn't dissolve, and a binder.  The pigment isn't necessarily all a colorant; some can be for other purposes, like the texture of the finish.  The binder dries to a smooth layer.  If the pigment concentration is low, it doesn't affect the surface and the result is a glossy finish.  If there is a high concentration of pigment, the particles make the surface microscopically bumpy and the paint dries to a matte finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theoretical Solutions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use paint that dries to the degree of &quot;matte-ness&quot; you want.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you can't find exactly what you want, you can make paint more matte by mixing in more pigment.  &quot;Clear&quot; powder can be added without changing the color.  But if you need tiny amounts of paint for a few action figures, this may not be too practical.  If the available matte paint is too matte, you can make it less matte by mixing in some glossy version of the same paint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use glossy paint to get the desired color and then coat it with a matte clear finish.&lt;/strong&gt;  This is a clear material with added fine powder.  It's hard to keep a clear finish clear with a lot of added powder, so these won't be as matte as it is possible to make paint.  If you want an extremely matte finish, you will probably need to use matte paint rather than rely on an overcoating.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start with glossy paint, then knock down the gloss after the fact&lt;/strong&gt; by making the surface irregular.  There are several ways to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly scuff the paint surface in random directions with fine-grit sandpaper (if they all go in the same direction, it will have more of a brushed appearance than a matte one).  For small action figures, it will be hard to get a uniform matte result this way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly pit the paint surface by gently &quot;sandblasting&quot; with a soft abrasive.  The paint must be fully cured and well bonded, so this requires good preparation before painting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chemically etch the paint surface after it's cured if it's not latex (water-based) paint.  Depending on the paint, you can use products sold for deglossing, or wash it in a strong TSP solution, or rub it with alcohol.  Don't try this approach with latex paint as it will strip the paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practical Solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to &quot;fine tune&quot; the finish to some degree, but assume that the result will be close to the characteristics of the paint you use.  So manage your expectations based on the paint you can find available.  If you want to experiment, do it with some spare action figures you don't care about to see the potential results before investing the effort on the important ones (and the practice will help you refine your technique and identify any issues before hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T17:34:40.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3619" CreationDate="2020-03-14T13:02:21.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use E V A foam sheets (3mm to 8mm thickness) The EVA has many different uses but for leather crafters it is used for stiffening of bags like laptop bags and also serves for protection. The sheet size is 1m x 2m. EVA foam is a closed cell foam that provide durability and strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8974" LastActivityDate="2020-03-14T13:02:21.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="545" CreationDate="2020-03-15T05:23:47.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I did my faux stained glass window (see below) I used hot glue to do the &quot;lead&quot; outline. It worked really well on glass because although it sticks very well, if I made a mistake I could remove it with a little effort. (And it was easy to remove the little strings of glue you always get when using a glue gun by just pulling them off.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I painted the dried glue with black acrylic paint. It was a little tedious but I switched to using an oil paint pen for touching it up and that worked pretty well too. This gives you the opportunity to make your glue lines look much neater, because you can pick and choose which of them show by which you paint black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, to fill in the areas in between the lines of black I used more cheap acrylic paint mixed with Elmer's glue and a bit of water. The ratio wasn't exact, I just experimented until I got a consistency that was fluid enough it sort of flowed into the empty spaces. The Elmer's glue makes the acrylic paint translucent and look a lot like colored glass. You can build up however many layers you want, increasing the opacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I sealed with a clear Rustoleum spray paint and hung it up in my window. It has held up very well in direct sun for the last few years, I attribute the paint not cracking most likely to the elasticity from the glue.I hope this technique will work for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thPVq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thPVq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Painted Peacock on recycled window&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8975" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-03-15T16:17:33.243" LastActivityDate="2020-03-15T16:17:33.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7993" CreationDate="2020-03-18T02:55:54.430" Score="5" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have spent several hours trying to decode steps 3-4 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.origami.cz/Pdf/caterpillar.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maarten van Gelder's caterpillar model&lt;/a&gt;. Can anyone shed any more light on how to make that fold and the next one in 5-6? It feels like they left out some steps there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That portion of the instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3DMAR.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3DMAR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8983" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-18T12:49:01.730" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T07:45:03.037" Title="How do I fold step 3-4 in Maarten van Gelder's caterpillar model?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2020-03-18T06:46:46.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diagrams 4 and 6 are very misleading and diagram 2 isn't to the same scale.  The end isn't as shown, so don't try to make the end look like the diagram.  Also, the diagrams don't use line formats to indicate mountain and valley folds, they just show sequence.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, steps 2 and 4 aren't needed.  Make the creases in Diagram 1 then Diagram 3.  Diagram 3 will add perpendicular creases to accordion fold the strip, and additional diagonal creases (you can identify exact locations by intersections of prior creases).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the 6 small diamonds running across the center of the strip.  Those will create the peaks at the top of diagram 6.  The outsides of the diamonds are mountain folds; the lines dividing the diamonds in half are valley folds.  Focus on getting those diamonds folded and that will force the rest into the general &quot;house&quot; shape of diagram 6.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the perpendicular folds between the diamonds (the even-numbered creases) are valley folds that swing down and meet in the middle to separate the segments.  The odd-numbered creases that divide the diamonds in half are valleys inside the diamond, and mountains outside the diamond, where they form the sides of the house shape.  Just fold all the segments the same and don't worry about making the ends look like diagram 6; you just need the outline of the segments in the &quot;house&quot; shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with the crease pattern in Figure 3 (just the first four diamonds, I replicated this on a short scrap of paper), this is an overhead view of the shape of the folds that produce the house shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pKEgu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pKEgu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bit of an optical illusion; those are valley folds bisecting each diamond.  Above and below the diamond, they change to mountain folds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get to diagram 7, fold each segment side in half in both directions to get a good score line where diagram 6 shows the dotted lines.  Open up the segment a little and you'll see the rectangular crease lines shown in diagram 5 for each segment side. Push the side in to invert the rectangle on the fold you just made.  When you're done with all the segment sides, it should accurately look like diagram 7. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That last step added the rectangular creases on the segment sides, shown in Diagram 5.  If you compare Diagram 5 to Diagram 3, there are also some dotted diagonal creases between the sides that will be missing on your model.  Those are where the legs are reverse-folded in step 7.  Since this is a continuous sheet, it will be hard to reverse fold the legs without manually adding those fold lines.  Open and flatten the model again, and add those missing creases.  It may also help to create the row of reverse folds to train the paper as you add those creases.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-03-20T07:45:03.037" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T07:45:03.037" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-19T05:18:18.153" Score="3" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;To repair a ceramic doll and a cup, I would like to apply &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kintsugi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kintsugi&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;Kintsugi&lt;/em&gt; is the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery by mending&#xA;  the areas of breakage with lacquer dusted or mixed with powdered gold,&#xA;  silver, or platinum&quot;. (Wikipedia)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any experiences with that? Do you just mix a ceramic glue with powdered gold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the &lt;em&gt;aztec gold&lt;/em&gt; pigment powder would do as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5989" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T04:44:48.990" Title="Golden glue - DIY Kintsugi?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7999" CreationDate="2020-03-19T22:23:10.550" Score="3" ViewCount="2188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of sheets of 2mm-thick MDF that I'd like to dye black for use as a guitar headstock overlay. Since this would typically be laminated to the headstock and then trimmed flush, its colour should be through-and-through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea I have is to put the piece in a baggy with the dye (India ink is what I have) and clamp it in a vise between other pieces so that it doesn't swell... I'm also considering whether I need to sand off the shiny finished surface of the MDF in case it's impermeable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be happy to avoid hours of messy experimentation, so I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8987" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T11:41:00.933" Title="How can I dye MDF?" Tags="|woodworking|dyeing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7996" CreationDate="2020-03-20T00:36:48.633" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not really an answer to your title question, and more of a solution to your situation, but, as fixer1234 mentions, no colouring method will evenly pervade the MDF fibres after they have been pressed while keeping the overall structure intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, &lt;strong&gt;coloured MDF can be bought in several places and online&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.winwood-products.com/eng/timber-products/coloured-mdf.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'Coloured MDF'&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://trinityinnovations.net/products/colored-mdf/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'Colored MDF'&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bedfordtimber.co.uk/ColouredMDF.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'Vibracol'&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.baars-bloemhoff.nl/merken/color-mdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'Color MDF'&lt;/a&gt;), and especially in black it is not hard to come by. Since some of the linked producers offer samples for free, you might even be able to get a sufficiently large black-coloured piece for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ea7H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ea7H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valchromat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Coloured mdf, so-called Valchromat: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.internationalhardboard.com/category/14/Valchromat---Colored-MDF.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all of these coloured MDF sheets seem dark enough, though, so &lt;strong&gt;you probably have to coat them manually anyway&lt;/strong&gt;, and, since the finished surface is indeed impermeable by liquids, you'll have to sand, ground, and coat that surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since the MDF sheets you already have are only usable if you concede to painting your custom overlay after they have been attached to the headstock and trimmed flush, &lt;strong&gt;consider getting a piece of black veneer or ebony and simply use that&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-20T11:18:40.890" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T11:18:40.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7994" CreationDate="2020-03-20T04:44:48.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point of kintsugi is to emphasise rather than hide damage in an aesthetically pleasing way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Japanese word Kintsugi translates more or less as ‘joining with gold’, and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The story of Kintsugi is said to have begun in the 15th century when Japanese military commander Ashikaga Yoshimasa broke one of his beloved Chinese tea bowls and, disappointed with the shoddy repair job it was treated to, urged Japanese craftsmen to come up with a more pleasing method of repair. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/326qTYw26156P9k92v8zr3C/broken-a-pot-copy-the-japanese-and-fix-it-with-gold&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to remain true to the tradition, precious metal (powdered gold, silver or platinum) is mixed with clear resin or lacquer. This enables you to see the gold or silver colour from the metal clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would be no reason why you cannot mix the metal powder into ceramic paste, but you would not necessarily see the metal in the join as clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some people fix the pottery with ceramic paste then paint the crack with gold ceramic paint to emphasise. Painting the joins, or using pigment powders as you suggest, is not a true traditional Kintsugi piece as no precious metals are being used. But, it still plays on the tradition of &lt;em&gt;wabi-sabi&lt;/em&gt; (an eastern philosophy of living that finds beauty in the damaged or imperfect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more on this, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/326qTYw26156P9k92v8zr3C/broken-a-pot-copy-the-japanese-and-fix-it-with-gold&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/326qTYw26156P9k92v8zr3C/broken-a-pot-copy-the-japanese-and-fix-it-with-gold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1997" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T04:44:48.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7996" CreationDate="2020-03-20T11:41:00.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will get some penetration, but much less than a millimetre.  One thing that should work is to trim very nearly flush, then mask the rest of the headstock and brush or wipe dye onto the sanded face, before smoothing with fine sandpaper (as any water in the dye will cause a little swelling). If you sand off too much, apply more dye, and while sanding, keep the masking in place. If the part to which you're laminating it is already well-varnished, the varnish may be sufficient to protect the existing headstock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can use an alcohol-based dye you'll get a lot less swelling, but I wouldn't rely on the varnish protecting the headstock unless I knew exactly what it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Demonstrating the lack of penetration: pressure-treated wood for outdoor use is designed to maximise takeup of the treatment.  Cut across it and you'll see just how little of the cross-section is treated.  MDF will be more absorbent, but not enough to change things dramatically, and this also means it suffers more than wood from being saturated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-03-20T11:41:00.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3181" CreationDate="2020-03-20T22:49:15.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still new to crochet, but when I complained about the yarn strands coming apart while I worked, I was told I might be working against the direction of the twisted strands and should roll into a ball so I could work from the other end. So, I'm guessing different manufacturing machines have a different twist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8990" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-21T01:00:46.537" LastActivityDate="2020-03-21T01:00:46.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8003" CreationDate="2020-03-22T01:05:19.587" Score="4" ViewCount="1776" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the title just about sums it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've cut some acrylic sheets to make vitrines for some painting frames and I have some leftover strips of acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an idea of what to use the acrylic for, but that would require melting it into a mould to make it into a small block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that acrylic melts at between 160ºC to 190ºC - which are temperatures that any oven at home can easily reach - however, I'm concerned about whether melting the acrylic will release any noxious fumes or not. Because, if so, I certainly won't be doing it at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8992" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T13:24:10.993" Title="I am looking to melt some leftover acrylic into a mould, at home. Are there fumes that I should be worried about?" Tags="|material-selection|plastic|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8002" CreationDate="2020-03-22T02:36:57.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of links that describe toxic fumes from burning or laser-cutting acrylic.  Apparently, the risk also applies to the molten plastic, as you would encounter with 3D printing or molding.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.creativemechanisms.com/blog/injection-mold-3d-print-cnc-acrylic-plastic-pmma&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Everything You Need To Know About Acrylic (PMMA)&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...fumes from 3D printing with acrylic or from the molten material used during injection molding should not be inhaled and ... should be conducted in a well ventilated facility to avoid the potentially hazardous effects of gaseous polymer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-03-22T02:36:57.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7952" CreationDate="2020-03-22T15:42:13.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A method that I find helpful is to mimic Bob Ross's style of painting mountains. Even in other mediums, you can still create a similar effect. I'd recommend watching one of his videos (they're on YouTube) and finding a brush in Photoshop with similar effects to a palette knife.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;His technique, if you're not familiar with it, is painting the shape/silhouette of the mountain in a dark brown or black, and then getting some white paint on a palette knife, and scraping it along the slopes one direction, simulating the sun hitting the snow. It shouldn't be too much paint on the palette knife so there's holes in the stroke and it fades out by the bottom of the mountain. Then, some light blue paint, going the opposite way, down the slopes, act as shadows for the mountain. For a visual, go to Youtube and look up Bob Ross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8658" LastEditorUserId="8658" LastEditDate="2021-06-19T06:16:41.097" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T06:16:41.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-22T15:53:45.227" Score="2" ViewCount="7517" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I make a piece of art with chalk pastels, it gets smudged all over. I don't want to go out and get fixative, and we don't have hairspray, so I was wondering if there is any household item that works well as a fixative for chalk pastels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8658" LastEditorUserId="8658" LastEditDate="2022-06-19T22:20:53.843" LastActivityDate="2022-06-23T17:01:01.963" Title="Homemade fixative for chalk pastel?" Tags="|drawing|paper|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8005" CreationDate="2020-03-22T18:30:57.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be easier for people to offer relevant answers if we know your constraints;  what you want to avoid.  I would think lots of clear spray finishes could work in a pinch (hair spray, clear paint-type finishes like lacquer, etc.; and spray application would avoid smudging).  If it's a question of cost, it's just another art supply to protect your effort.  If it's a question of fumes, many kinds of products will be in the same boat.  If it's a question of corona virus and not wanting to venture out for a non-critical item, you could avoid handling the art until you can get a proper fixative.  So let us know your objective beyond just needing a fixative.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are fixative sprays optimized for the purpose, and hair spray will also work.  Once you get away from things that are designed for the purpose, there will be trade-offs and risks, and they generally won't be as good.  I'll suggest a few (untested) ideas of items you might have around that might help to prevent smudging, but they are also likely to affect the appearance.  You would probably want to experiment with scraps of the paper and some chalk scribbles before trying something with art you want to preserve.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use something other than an actual fixative or hair spray, you will probably come closest with very light mistings of a clear spray finish.  You want to apply just enough to act as a binder without building up a shiny layer.  Pretty much anything else will be much more noticeable and affect the appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything water-based will affect the paper, but you might get away with misting a few fine coats of something like acrylic floor finish or even diluted PVA glue from a distance with a hand sprayer or paint sprayer.  Let each coat dry completely before applying the next.  If it's heavy enough for complete coverage that produces a shiny surface, it's too heavy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would want to shoot for coats that each make almost no visible difference; just a dispersion of tiny droplets, with not enough in one spot to swell the paper.  If you build up too thick a layer or don't let each layer dry completely before applying the next, it may warp or curl the paper because the overcoat will shrink as it dries (less of a problem with a collection of tiny independent droplets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything you apply with direct mechanical means, like a brush or roller, is likely to smudge the chalk.  An approach that might work would be to pour a thin layer of non-water-based clear material that doesn't shrink as it hardens, like slow-setting epoxy.  That will produce a very different finished appearance, though, than the very matte finish of chalk on paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that matter, there are products like versions of Mod Podge that are designed to be &quot;poured&quot; from an applicator to provide a clear surface over paper.  Paper thinner than cardboard usually needs to be glued to a surface to prevent it from warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thinking outside the box, an idea you could experiment with (I have no idea whether it would work), would be to iron on wax paper.  The heat might transfer some of the wax into the chalk and paper and act as a binder.  There could be a problem trying to remove the wax paper without having the chalk stick to it (try it hot and cold).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is longevity.  Products other than a fixative designed for the purpose may change characteristics over time.  Many products, including hair spray and some finishes, may eventually yellow.  Organic materials, especially without preservative, may decompose or be attacked by microorganisms, PVA glue and some other materials can become cloudy in high humidity, etc.  So a lot of materials may be fine to protect the pieces for awhile, but they could ruin work you want to have an archival life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-04-18T19:02:08.247" LastActivityDate="2020-04-18T19:02:08.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8002" CreationDate="2020-03-23T13:24:10.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic is also very easy to scorch, for example when line bending or vacuum forming. I doubt you'd be able to melt it evenly without it getting a brown crust in places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T13:24:10.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8005" CreationDate="2020-03-23T18:52:24.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some additional recipes to complement fixer1234's extensive answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The easiest and most likely candidate for a homemade fixative is &lt;strong&gt;milk&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Van Gogh protected a lot of his drawings using regular milk (and water)&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; - at times pouring out entire glasses over them. The reason he opted for milk was because he wanted to get rid of the sheen of charcoal and graphite.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have any &lt;strong&gt;casein&lt;/strong&gt; lying around, a casein fixative might be a good alternative.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mix casein with (grain) alcohol and (distilled) water, in a 1:2:5 ratio.&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1461625&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for more experiences (and likely some troubleshooting).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And in case you have any &lt;strong&gt;shellac&lt;/strong&gt; at home, you can try mixing it with isopropyl alcohol in a 1:4 ratio to create a shellac fixative&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;, which you can apply using a spray can.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;1: &lt;a href=&quot;http://vangoghletters.org/vg/terminology.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://vangoghletters.org/vg/terminology.html&lt;/a&gt;, see under '&lt;em&gt;fixing&lt;/em&gt;'&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2: &lt;a href=&quot;https://dbclemons.wordpress.com/2016/10/27/homemade-casein-fixative/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://dbclemons.wordpress.com/2016/10/27/homemade-casein-fixative/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ehow.com/info_12066271_homemade-fixate-charcoal-drawing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ehow.com/info_12066271_homemade-fixate-charcoal-drawing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T19:49:09.543" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T19:49:09.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8010" CreationDate="2020-03-25T14:48:23.327" Score="9" ViewCount="1786" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a tool that can cut flat 5mm-wide aluminum jewelry wire to leave a rounded end? (An as-yet nonexistent extremely heavy duty nail clipper  comes to mind).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image below, the wire on the left is an example of what we started with. We've used a grinder to round the end of the wire on the right. If we could just cut it in a round shape and then polish the end, it would save a lot of metal dust about a minute of grinding per end (and we may have hundreds to do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWKMb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWKMb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two flat metal wires. One is cut straight and the other has been rounded by a grinder.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/3565/8998&quot;&gt;An answer to this other question&lt;/a&gt; mentioned the use of a deburring tool, which may be useful after making a round cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This metal piece helps snug a medical mask to a person's nose. We wanted it to be rounded to prevent it from breaking through the material. My wife is making medical masks for friends that are health care providers who are worried about the current mask shortage. Hers is a five layered design that I'll encourage her to post soon. Without this metal piece, air leaks around the nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: &amp;quot;Normal&amp;quot; toenail clippers actually worked well enough. I hadn't thought about actually trying them, but after the accepted answer below suggested something we thought flimsier than toenail clippers, we went ahead and gave toenail clippers a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8998" LastEditorUserId="8998" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T01:45:52.593" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T01:45:52.593" Title="Is there a tool that will make a rounded cut in flat metal wire?" Tags="|metalworking|metal|wire|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8009" CreationDate="2020-03-25T16:48:25.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I popped out a 'net search using &quot;scalloped edge shears&quot; and found a variety of sewing related cutters that may work, if your material is thin enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first link I selected, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01C8C0HH8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, has a user question regarding the size of the scallop. It's 5 millimeters, although there are others with 3 and 7 mm sizes according to my search results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that the edge on the downstroke will probably have a bit of a burr, but one can remove the burr with a few strokes of abrasive material such as sandpaper. The shears will not last long cutting aluminum, but may provide for a few hundred cuts before needing replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52iW8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52iW8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scallop shears image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that you'll have to carefully align a 5 mm wide strip with a 5 mm wide cut to ensure you get a smooth profile. It might be more practical (easier) to use a 7 mm scallop to provide a bit of leeway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jig of sorts holding one handle of the shears braced against a surface, along with a guide channel to place the material consistently will facilitate production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T16:48:25.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8009" CreationDate="2020-03-25T16:56:27.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best option are sheet metal cutting shears, either manually handled ones (like heavy duty scissors), or electrical ones (power tools), although the latter one seems a little overkill for these small strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmQDX9WESDk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a demonstration video of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get quite clean cuts with the 'scissors' variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variant of these, referred to as 'tin snips' or '&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-Gg7AZb4AI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aviation snips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;', seem to be a perfect match for your intended use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-26T19:42:31.707" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T19:42:31.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8009" CreationDate="2020-03-25T23:34:02.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pure Aluminum melts at 660°C so a soldering iron won't be enough, I suggest you to use a &lt;strong&gt;Blow Torch&lt;/strong&gt; that can reach a temperature of 1300°C, if you keep the wire vertical and melt it the end of the cable would result in a perfect round.&#xA;Be careful, droplets are very hot, it's much worse than a classic soldering burn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSHNw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSHNw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9001" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T23:34:02.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8009" CreationDate="2020-03-26T02:45:14.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;aluminium is very soft, maybe you can use some kind of press to get it into shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9003" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T02:45:14.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8009" CreationDate="2020-03-26T13:28:34.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you're only working in thin aluminium, I suggest a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.powertools2u.co.uk/straight-gouge-carving-chisel-25-4mm-1in&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;gouge chisel&lt;/a&gt;.  It will need sharpening fairly often (a diamond file is probably easiest) to go through easily but should do a good job.  Use scrapwood clamped down securely as your anvil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a gouge, but I've tested a straight chisel successfully. My scrap aluminium is 3mm thick and a cut of about 8mm long took a couple of blows with a carpenter's mallet on the back of my roughest (not very sharp, as well as chipped) chisel.  This is bigger than your cut, so you should be able to do it in a single blow.  An offcut of oak worktop was a much better anvil than softwood: the cut was easier and the burr on the back much less. If doing a lot you may wish to make a jig, or at least attach a fence/length guide.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heavy-duty nail clippers you were thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toe-Nail-Clipper-Cutter-Chiropody-Heavy-Duty-for-Thick-Nails-File-Lifter-kit/221842376699&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;do exist&lt;/a&gt;, but I suspect that they'd push the strip out when you squeeze them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also curved tin snips, but ones as curved as &lt;a href=&quot;https://vintagetoolshop.com/products/10-gilbow-tool-no-246-10-curved-tin-snips-26424&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this old pair&lt;/a&gt; are rare nowadays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2020-03-26T13:54:05.790" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T13:54:05.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-27T02:10:58.553" Score="2" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to start weaving my own cotton yarn, using a manual loom, to create my own cotton canvas fabric.  The fabric will be used to create canvas paintings, which will be stretched over the necessary stretcher bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as the original paintings, I will be looking to produce canvas prints by feeding the canvas material through a wide format ink jet printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fabric will need to meet the following properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight:&lt;/strong&gt;  450gsm;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Texture:&lt;/strong&gt;  Medium to Coarse;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weave:&lt;/strong&gt;  Tightly Woven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary reservation is whether a manual loom is capable of allowing the weaver to create a professional standard product or whether there are limitations that can only be overcome via a computerized loom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key concerns being:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is a tight weave achievable with a manual loom?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a greater risk of the fabric unraveling when a manual loom is used over a computerized loom?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2501" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-10-22T17:54:55.957" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T23:36:56.317" Title="Can I create a 'professional level' canvas weave, using a manual loom machine?" Tags="|fabric|medium-selection|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8020" CreationDate="2020-03-27T17:13:35.697" Score="6" ViewCount="3608" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is clear from what I can google that rags soaked in linseed oil and similar must be taken special care of because they could catch fire while drying. Is this also the case for rags, etc., with oil colors straight out the tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9008" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T20:26:20.543" Title="Proper disposal: Can oil colors spontaneously combust?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|safety|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8018" CreationDate="2020-03-27T17:23:03.557" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No the oil paint alone will not combust but if paint thinner or mineral spirits that the oil paint brushes are cleaned with can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9009" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T17:23:03.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8018" CreationDate="2020-03-27T17:47:36.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is still a risk, as the hazard is in the oil; as the oil dries, it emits heat (an exothermic reaction) which, if it's in a pile of other flammable objects--such as other oily rags, papers, etc--can cause them to combust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=605220&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wet Canvas forum&lt;/a&gt; (the thread also contains some personal experiences with combusting rags):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remember it is the &lt;strong&gt;linseed oil that heats slightly as it dries&lt;/strong&gt; (oils dry via a slow combustion process) and if the heat is trapped fire is a possibility, especially combined with highly flammable substances such as solvent. Whether you use solvent or not, soak your oily rags/paper towels in water or spread them out to get air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mutualofenumclaw.com/thinkitthrough/blog-post-page/home-blog-posts/2015/07/14/your-used-paint-rags-could-cause-dangerous-fires.-here-s-why&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog from Mutual of Enumclaw&lt;/a&gt; gives an additional citation to rags with oil-based paint on them being a hazard (as well as tips for handling them):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Simply put, rags that contain &lt;strong&gt;residue of oil-based paints and stains&lt;/strong&gt;, paint thinners, varnishes, or polyurethane can spontaneously combust and catch on fire. Here’s what happens: &lt;strong&gt;When oily rags begin to dry, they produce heat.&lt;/strong&gt; Combined with oxygen they turn into combustible cloths that can quickly cause trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(All emphasis above is mine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is clear that the oil is the risk, and as the paints &quot;straight from the tube&quot; contain oil, it is best to treat them as a risk as much as you would the other items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-03-27T18:50:08.657" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T18:50:08.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8018" CreationDate="2020-03-27T19:08:17.537" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think was a problem of long ago. Although it can still happen today, it is now much less common. The risks were more common in the past when someone like a professional painter would collect a large box of oily/solvent/paint soaked rags. Back before water based paints were so common, and before disposable paper towels were available for cleaning, and before various cleaning products were available. A can of solvent type liquid is no problem; the problem is a collection of rags where there is good oxygen access over a large surface area and the center of the pile is thermally insulated by the surface rags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-03-28T20:26:20.543" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T20:26:20.543" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8023" CreationDate="2020-03-29T00:41:10.470" Score="3" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to frame a few old video game cartridges in a box frame for art and preservation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the idea from a few posts I've seen online of others who have done the same:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXRAO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXRAO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrMrW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrMrW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i7KmY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i7KmY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going use a sheet of foam and cut out the squares for the cartridges to sit in, within the box frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My one concern is the paper sticker-labels on the cartridges fading over time. They will be behind the glass frame permanently, but I don't want them to fade due to light exposure. My only idea so far for maintaining the labels is to not hang the frame in a location that will ever be exposed to direct sunlight. My only other thought is perhaps using special glass on the frame which reduces the light damage on the art inside? But I'm not sure if this even exists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there anything else I can do to extend the lifespan of these cartridge labels?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links to original posts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/pokemon/comments/csgqfp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/pokemon/comments/csgqfp/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/pokemon/comments/85k9d0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/pokemon/comments/85k9d0/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/pokemon/comments/72kkut/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/pokemon/comments/72kkut/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7976" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T01:41:53.523" Title="Preserving paper stickers long term" Tags="|paper|preservation|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2020-03-29T01:41:53.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The greatest culprit of the fading of printed colour is UV light. This process is called photo-degradation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can protect your images by framing them using &lt;strong&gt;conservation glass&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;UV filtering Plexiglas&lt;/strong&gt; (which can be found at most art supply stores and framing ateliers), or coat the glass you already have with &lt;strong&gt;UV protective spray&lt;/strong&gt;. This process needs to be repeated, though. There are also (adhesive) protective sheets you can cut to size, either to cover the frame window or the individual objects, but these are harder to find.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from hanging your pictures &lt;strong&gt;out of direct sunlight&lt;/strong&gt;, be sure to &lt;strong&gt;frame them cleanly, and place them in a stable and dry environment, away from heat sources&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T01:41:53.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-03-30T21:11:59.150" Score="3" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to make a collapsible origami bellow/sleeve without using glue? I am interested in that because i want to make a plunger engine that would use such a sleeve made of fiberglass sealed with tar. Any use of glue is precluded cause it would not withstand the pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9012" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T14:33:03.173" Title="Is it possible to make a collapsible origami bellow/sleeve without using glue?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3181" CreationDate="2020-04-01T01:46:51.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always wound my yarn into a &quot;cake&quot; using a yarn winder. This gives me the opportunity to inspect the yarn as it winds and also produces a compact, center-pull cake. I find the center-pull cakes handy when it comes to portability, organizing and cleanliness. I place each one into a Zip-Lock baggie (from the dollar store) and zip it almost shut leaving enough room to pull the yarn out. If I need to move to a different location all I need to do is grab my project and the baggie(s). If I'm using more than one strand of yarn they're less likely to get tangled and even if they do they're easier to untangle. Unlike balls, the baggies don't roll around and get into trouble and the yarn doesn't pick up lint or stray people or pet hairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9014" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T01:46:51.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7876" CreationDate="2020-04-01T02:11:08.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get needles longer than straight needles (which max out at about 16 inches) for working wide pieces like a blanket or a sweater for fat Uncle Ed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your work grows on straight needles the weight can take a toll on your wrists and hands. With circular needles most of the weight is in your lap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seamless sweaters can't be done on straight needles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're into making socks there's the magic loop method of working two at a time (TAAT) that can't be done on straight needles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making a tube (sleeve, sock, pullover) you can use a circular needle instead of double points. Then you only have the one needle to keep track of instead of 4 or 5 double points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drop one or both they don't go anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9014" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T02:11:08.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-02T11:33:22.673" Score="3" ViewCount="2024" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how/if you can fade the color from pages in for example old guidebooks with very strong colored photos? - and without using any chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve tried using sandpaper or a hard brush, but it smudges the colors more than ideal, and also quite time consuming. I’m aware of fading the papers in the sun, but even more time consuming :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to fade the pages, so that I can use them as notepaper while still keeping a slight view of the original photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone with suggestions or experiences? Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9019" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-04T11:40:45.080" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T09:34:28.693" Title="How to naturally fade very colorful paper?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3683" CreationDate="2020-04-03T07:17:56.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might i add an experience i had: i once had a cheap watch of which the plexiglas front shell came off. I glued it with cyanoacrylate glue and at first it was fine. Next day, it seemed the fumes of the glue had affected the inside of the plexiglas front and it became all white instead of transparent. I had to throw away the watch... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9024" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T07:17:56.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6127" CreationDate="2020-04-03T11:08:44.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me as though the marks you are seeing are resulting from your resin shrinking from the inside out (hottest part first) as it cures, while the resin on the outside (the coolest part) is still somewhat liquid, thus pulling away from the mold and leaving marks due to places where it has still adhered to the mold versus where it has pulled away. So one option you might look at is to try to find a type of resin that shrinks less (which typically means it also takes longer to cure), or try to cure your resin more slowly at a lower temperature. Another approach is to try to heat the outside of your mold (blowtorch? oven? hot air gun?) so that the resin cures first there, thus pulling away from the mold more uniformly. Another (generally always advisable regardless of what else you do) is to use spray mold release into the mold before you use it so that the resin won't try to stick to the mold and will just pull away everywhere as it shrinks, instead of pulling away unevenly as it has apparently been doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be cautious about using a different kind of resin (e.g. 5-minute epoxy) to fill such gaps: the other kind of resin may cure a different color, or may eventually turn a different color due to UV exposure (browning) at a different rate than the resin you used for the sphere. This may be noticeable, either initially or over time. The other resin having a different refractive index may also be an issue, resulting in distorted light transmission instead of a nice clear &quot;spherical lens&quot; effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I found myself with your problem, I would probably try to use the resin I already had to solve it, either by applying it with a paintbrush to fill the gaps and then sanding the sphere smooth again, or by putting some mold release in the mold, then pooling a little bit of resin in the bottom of the mold, and then painting the surface of the mold with resin, and then painting some resin on the sphere (filling the crevices), and then re-inserting the sphere into the mold (being careful to watch out for bubbles!) so that the little bit of resin in the bottom of the mold is displaced by the sphere and is forced to flow up around the sphere (hopefully taking bubbles with it) until some pours out the top of the mold. (Essentially, re-mold the sphere with some additional resin, so that gaps will be filled.) Hopefully the second time around, the amount of shrinkage would be minimal since such a thin layer of resin is being cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach would be to just put the sphere into the mold and then pour resin over the top of the sphere, allowing it to flow down around the edges of the sphere into the mold until it fills the space between the sphere and the mold and covers the sphere completely. This will only work well if your resin is relatively thin, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8236" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T11:08:44.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-04T14:46:14.733" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about making a platinum chain for myself, just for fun. I plan to do a simple cable chain design, without soldering/welding from a round platinum wire.&#xA;Can someone share steps/tools?&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9029" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T15:30:35.573" Title="Making a platinum chain" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2020-04-17T00:44:44.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2020-04-04T15:15:07.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Elmy's comment.  Not just toner, but most commercial inks are probably more stable than the paper they're printed on.  It would be hard to substantially bleach the printing without affecting the paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want the image as a light background, you could scan it, lighten it with image processing software, and print it as a faint background on fresh paper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach you could try is give the pages a very light misting of white paint or semi-pigmented white wood stain.  It would be a challenge to get a uniform coating of the desired transparency; it would be worth practicing on some sacrificial pages.  It's also likely to affect writeability, so you might need to experiment with different kinds of pens, markers, and pencils to see what writes on it acceptably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your comment suggests something else you could try.  There is super-fine grit sandpaper (e.g., 2000 grit and higher), that's used for polishing.  You could try very gently buffing the paper with that.  It will remove some of the surface and the ink on it.  However, this will also affect the surface of the paper and change it's writing characteristics, so you might need to experiment with pens, markers, and pencils to see what works best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just tried that using 2000 grit sandpaper on a pretty page from a magazine (high quality photo printing on shiny coated paper).  The results were awful.  In this case, the colors might have been laid down sequentially, so rather than lightening everything evenly, it removed almost all of one color before attacking the next color.  Getting it light enough to be a background for writing, the result was ugly, unrecognizable blotches of color.  Also, the printing is only microns thick, so it's impossible to remove it evenly; by the time it was reasonably light, the printing was full of blotchy holes, where almost all of the printing had been removed.  So YMMV depending on the type of paper and the nature of the printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-04-05T18:47:06.963" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T18:47:06.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8036" CreationDate="2020-04-04T22:21:43.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not start with a copper chain and see how much fun it is before the expense of platinum ? Copper wire is readily available in giant size range. Platinum wire sizes will be limited. They seem to be in about the same strength range depending on the amount of cold work. When our technicians wound custom heating equipment with platinum wire , there was no problem working it, no special handling (other than to lock up the spool of wire when finished). . I expect you will want annealed wire . If you need to soften it after working it needs only about 1400 F which you can get with a gas stove or propane torch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T22:21:43.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6378" CreationDate="2020-04-05T01:20:05.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper helps a lot actually! As long as you don’t mind a few scuff marks, the sandpaper gets rid of almost all of the stickiness. I painted my Switch controllers the other day and hated the stick, but I used some sandpaper, and with a few scuff marks on the back, they're good and smooth now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-05T12:50:45.693" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T12:50:45.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2020-04-07T07:32:54.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many inks fade in sunlight, but reds tend to fade worse than blues as red ink absorbs blue light, and blue light has more energy (per photon) to cause chemical reactions. So this is unlikely to give an even fade. It's still worth a try, perhaps on a less beautiful page. If you have a UV lamp, either for curing resin or a sunbed, that would speed up the process, while putting the paper under glass will slow it down and perhaps change the evenness of the fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some prints will wash in alcohols (rubbing alcohol is largely isopropanol, while denatured alcohol sold as a solvent or fuel is mainly ethanol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately a solution for one print process could be completely useless on another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T07:32:54.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-07T12:36:50.077" Score="3" ViewCount="2532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to jewelry. I would like to try casting silver (pure) in so called green sand. In my research I see that it is recommended to use some sort of flux while melting silver. The most popular and widely available without a doubt is borax (sodium tetraborate if I am not mistaken), however it seems to be for some reason (toxicity maybe) illegal where I live and I cannot get it that easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any common materials that can be used as flux for silver melting instead of borax?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen sodium carbonate (wash soda/calcined soda) being sold as some sort of flux and I have read something about sodium hydroxide (lye) being used as flux in some applications. Would these materials be suitable/better than nothing for silver melting or should I not worry about it at all and pure(ish) silver should not oxidize anyway? Or is there anything else that might work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-04-07T14:33:50.803" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T19:14:20.697" Title="What else can be used as flux instead of borax for silver casting?" Tags="|jewelry|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8043" CreationDate="2020-04-07T15:36:08.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest charcoal and no flux. Keep molten time to a minimum. Charcoal is used on molten lead for long periods to reduce oxidation. For many copper alloys , hydrogen absorption is a problem ; it evolves during freezing causing porosity. I read in ASM Metals Handbook that molten silver may absorbs oxygen causing porosity. Charcoal should provide some protection from both H and O..&#xA;Borax seems pretty easy to get in the US. However, long ago I mixed flux to make a slag for copper alloys , it primarily contained : soda ash ( sodium carbonate), beach sand ( silica), and fluorspar. There are a number of sites on the net that sell proprietary fluxes ( for copper alloys). And one site gives info on the flux&#xA; components -  911 metallurgist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="3114" LastEditDate="2020-04-07T19:14:20.697" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T19:14:20.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8048" CreationDate="2020-04-07T20:21:58.853" Score="2" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start painting what paint should I choose? Oil, acrylic, or another?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I use pencils now, and would like to upgrade to colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7992" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T20:56:32.563" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T20:56:32.563" Title="What kind of paint should I choose to start painting?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-05-20T00:17:10.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-07T21:50:31.303" Score="3" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Toyota SFT39 (RS2000 3D Series, 2012) sewing machine has suddenly started accelerating at top speed no matter how gentle I am on the foot pedal. I opened up the foot pedal and can’t see anything wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me troubleshoot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was sewing fine before this and has never gone this fast, unless of course I put firm downward pressure on the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9036" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-11T09:44:21.920" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T08:05:21.053" Title="My sewing machine is accelerating for an unknown reason" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8046" CreationDate="2020-04-08T02:14:32.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you would like/enjoy to get involved in. A lot is based on opinion where to start. As a child, I started with watercolor. For some artists, they say that watercolor is more difficult because of how fluid it is, and how it spreads compared to other paints. Making it more difficult to control for a first-timer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic could be a good start, because it is easy to dry, and you can get more done with acrylic paint, over a short amount of time. Compared to oil paint, that will take a longer time to dry. I have found with oil paint, it is beautiful ability to blend colors, compared to acrylic or watercolor. Oil paint can be very messy for a beginner paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what you would enjoy. I found enjoyment in all three paints, but each one is kind of their own kind of technique and ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal preference only have found mine to be from easiest.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)Watercolor.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pros: fluid colors, dries fast.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cons: Could spread to other colors and ripping paper from getting damp.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)Acrylic. &#xA;Pros: Fast drying, can make layers fast.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cons: Not as well blended colors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)Oil paint. &#xA;Pros: Blends well, combines colors well.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cons: Takes forever to dry, messy, and if you aren't careful could get on clothing and stain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T02:14:32.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-08T10:09:05.297" Score="4" ViewCount="2508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just created my first silicone mould, well, the first part of a two part mould.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used OOmOO 30, which is great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've used a modelling clay called Sculpey III to raise parts in the first half of the mould.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silicone has cured, and I've attempted to remove the clay, but it's just stuck to the plastic parts and the mould.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on cleaning? Or a better clay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9038" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-10T13:42:15.530" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T03:34:21.980" Title="How do I remove modelling clay from my parts and silicone mold?" Tags="|plastic|mold-making|clay|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-10T16:45:57.780" Score="2" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a heavy sandbag which is supposed to be able to be dropped. Given the good ratings it has, I assume it had a manufacturing fault as the seam exploded the first time I dropped it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvslO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvslO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, as insurance I bought this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MAACPS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pekKEbWGK99YE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sewing awl&lt;/a&gt;, that comes with waxed thread that is thicker than what the sandbag is sewn together by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this thread be suitable, and can you please point me to the best stitching method/pattern for repairing this seam, given that I only have this awl to hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I also have 50mm wide nylon webbing to hand, perhaps I can use that to reinforce the seam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9043" LastEditorUserId="9043" LastEditDate="2020-04-11T09:11:12.847" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T03:19:28.517" Title="How to repair heavy duty nylon seam?" Tags="|sewing|plastic|seams|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8046" CreationDate="2020-04-11T03:22:50.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start with acrylic paint. It’s not too expensive and also doesn’t take months to dry/, versus oil paints.. which are pricey, messy and takes a long time to dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9045" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T03:22:50.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-11T07:10:31.030" Score="1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is commonplace to blur images and paint portraits or scenes as though they were blurry. Think of a photo of a person or object or scene. Now imagine it out of focus. In other words blurry. It might have been blurred deliberately by panning as it was shot or afterwards, with a digital treatment. That is a blurred image. If you have short sight and look at an object far enough away if will look blurry because it is out of focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: has an object been constructed that successfully looks out of focus when someone with good eyesight looks at it. This object will in fact be in focus but because of the art and craft of the maker it will appear out of focus, ie blurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9047" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-23T11:27:11.977" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T11:27:11.977" Title="Concrete objects constructed to look blurred" Tags="|sculpting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-11T18:52:14.150" Score="-1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Introduction&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello everyone, i am building a tank made out of Legos, it is a very ambitious project and it requires many components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be wondering why i am asking here something related to a RC controlled tank.&#xA;The problem is related to the remote controller: I am building one myself and I'm following the instruction in this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-BDCmwNssiw&amp;amp;list=WL&amp;amp;index=59&amp;amp;t=0s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-BDCmwNssiw&amp;amp;list=WL&amp;amp;index=59&amp;amp;t=0s&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;My problem is that I can't find anywhere the metal 11mm spacer rings mentioned at 8:47&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ring has to be mounted onto an acrylic panel&#xA;I need a website because the local shops don't have what I'm looking for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9049" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-18T08:35:49.040" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T01:04:25.593" Title="Trouble finding 11mm metal spacer rings" Tags="|metal|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2020-08-06T20:39:28.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8053" CreationDate="2020-04-12T00:39:39.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a product recommendation and a different take on the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spacers appear to have been constructed from commonly available hobby tubing. Many big-box hardware stores, small-box hardware stores and hobby shops will carry tubing suitable for your purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get away with plastic tubing of sufficient rigidity and wall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would, of course, have to measure, mark and cut the tubing to the necessary length. I suspect that 11 millimeters is a ballpark figure and you could get away with being a millimeter or two off spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the tools, drill a hole in a scrap of wood to match the outside diameter of the tubing you select, insert the tubing to your mark and cut the tubing with a saw held against the face of the scrap. For obvious reasons, the scrap has to have the hole drilled square to the face in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without these tools and a scrap, you can cut the tubing a bit long and use a file or coarse sandpaper to square the ends and establish a final length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other option, which adds a bit to the cost, is to purchase a small tubing cutter to perform the cuts. It will create a square edge, cuts quite precisely on your mark and will also swage in the end of the tube slightly. In many uses, such a distortion on the tubing end is not desirable, but for your purposes, it's not going to be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coSlB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coSlB.png&quot; alt=&quot;small tubing cutter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above tubing cutter is from an online listing from Advance Auto Parts, but most hardware stores will have similar products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T00:39:39.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8050" CreationDate="2020-04-13T08:50:24.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I see it, even the base material is not cut / prepared really properly. Even if you make a very good stitching, there is a chance that the material itself will fail during the next &quot;shocking experiences&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do it in two steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stitch as good as possible, to make sure that the sand will stay inside. Please stitch each layer individually, for increased strength;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap the area with strong ribbons (let's say, similar with the safety belts in cars; similar to wearing belts for pants). Be sure that the belts close with good quality metal, not with cheap plastic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-04-13T13:44:51.583" LastActivityDate="2020-04-13T13:44:51.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8059" CreationDate="2020-04-14T02:59:47.257" Score="2" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am restoring some old Microscopes and the existing coatings are in poor shape. I would like to strip the castings and refinish them to look as original as possible. Unfortunately, I am unable to determine what coating or process was used to achieve the fine water mist texture as shown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyZvB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyZvB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;B&amp;amp;L Microscope Misty Paint Texture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a paint or process available to achieve something at least close to it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8005" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T13:36:17.753" Title="How do I replicate this misty spray paint texture/pattern?" Tags="|painting|paint|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8046" CreationDate="2020-04-14T08:06:51.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend watercolor. I started on them and the paper can be used on both sides if you get good quality. Blending is easy to do and you can easily control the color's intensity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9053" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T08:06:51.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8052" CreationDate="2020-04-14T08:27:28.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's possible to create a &quot;blurry&quot; object, because &quot;blur&quot; is a phenomenon that is tied to optics and the way we see, not the physical properties of an object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could argue that something like mist or smoke looks blurry, because the edges of the smoke aren't sharply defined, but neither are solid objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could argue that fluffy fur looks blurry, because the fine tips of individual hairs kind of blend it into the background, but at an appropriate distance (or rather closeness) a person with good eye sight is able to distinguish single hairs from the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some artists found their own way of &quot;blurring&quot; a sculpture by moving away from realism and into abstraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a random example I found online (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/639301672/modern-art-pottery-bust-male-head&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xcpr7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xcpr7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pottery head&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably see a human head with shoulders, but actually it's no more than an oval lump of clay on top of a flat rectangle. All the details are blurred, but an observer can still make out what is shown to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another example (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artparks.co.uk/artpark_sculpture.php?sculpture=11338&amp;amp;sculptor=myles_mansfield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coHu4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coHu4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably see a bee, but what's actually there is no more than a bunch of metal rods and rings. It doesn't even have a real body, only some rings suspended at a short distance, but our human brains can interpret the missing parts like a blurred picture and create the illusion of an animal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T08:27:28.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8056" CreationDate="2020-04-14T09:52:31.537" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the material is metal, one can use a wrinkle finish powdercoat to accomplish this result. It's not quite exactly the same texture, but wrinkle finish powdercoat may qualify in that it's random and irregular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using search terms &quot;texture powder coat&quot; provides a number of similar finishes, including hammertone and silver vein, the latter shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zreVy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zreVy.png&quot; alt=&quot;silver vein finish powder coat&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a powder coating service in your area, they can advise of the available finishes. You can also purchase a home powder coating system which can be used with an inexpensive (yard sale) toaster oven for small parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T09:52:31.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8052" CreationDate="2020-04-14T12:51:32.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing that comes to my mind are the works by the contemporary German artist Gerhard Richter. He has a huge body of paintings that are famous for being blurred, like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G347U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G347U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gerhard Richter. October 18, 1977. 1988&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, to a lesser but more photographic extent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAcLs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAcLs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gerhard Richter. Betty. 1988&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early 20th century, artists that were part of the futurism movement, wished to portray movement. This might no be exactly what you're looking for, but it does involve blurring, as this is one of the few methods that can be used to depict movement in a static, two-dimensional image (motion blur).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An example is this work by Giacomo Balla, '&lt;em&gt;Dynamism of a Dog on a Leash&lt;/em&gt;':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6mQH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6mQH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Giacomo Balla. Dynamism of a Dog on a Leash. 1912&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sculpture, similar things were tried during the futurist movement. An iconic example is '&lt;em&gt;Unique Forms of Continuity in Space&lt;/em&gt;', by Umberto Boccioni. Again, it does not come across as blurry, because the movement - the blur - has here been solidified:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUHHb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUHHb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Umberto Boccioni. Unique Forms of Continuity in Space. 1913&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar, recent sculpture is made out of glass shards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUjJN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUjJN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Costas Varostos. Dromeas. 1988&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it's glass, the outlines are less defined, and the material even changes colour and brightness based on the environment. So not only does it depict blur, the sculpture itself is blurred against its background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another recent example of motion blur in sculpture is this work by Ryan Johnson, insinuating a more pixelated or artificial motion blur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrcZo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrcZo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ryan Johnson&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abstraction is (mainly, arguably) a simplification of form, something that blur results in as well. The problem with sculpture is that it needs solidity, mass, and volume, whereas visual blur, as Elmy mentions, is a visual phenomenon: it's essentially non-physical, non-solid, a mental interpretation. That's why it might be hard to find what you're looking for in a three-dimensional object (although I had hoped to find some sculptures made out of fur, or a similar material, as that has a natural blurriness to it. Like this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/00Ut8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/00Ut8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Meret Oppenheim. Object. 1936&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but focused more on the visual quality of fur).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T12:51:32.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8062" CreationDate="2020-04-14T13:02:58.703" Score="3" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my first go at oil painting on the weekend.I was given some basic beginner supplies for Christmas. This included a &lt;em&gt;&quot;Belle Vous&quot;&lt;/em&gt; Oil Painting Pad with 12 sheets. I thoroughly enjoyed my first go using a wet-on-wet style but was taken by surprise how long it can take oils to dry properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may seem like a non-question to some people, but when using a pad like this, would you pull a sheet out from the pad before painting so you can use more before it's dried? Would you have multiple pads and rotate them whilst another is drying so you can have a sort of &quot;art book&quot; of completed pictures at the end? Or am I greatly over worrying about the fragility of oil paint and leaving it for a day will make it &quot;dry enough&quot; to just flip over to another sheet? Or perhaps am I supposed to do something so it dries in better time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9054" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-04-14T17:28:09.143" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T17:28:09.143" Title="Are you supposed to remove the sheets from oil painting pads?" Tags="|paper|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8061" CreationDate="2020-04-14T13:27:17.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You paint on only one sheet at a time, removing it and placing it on a table, easel, or other surface of your choice. You can use a hard or stiff backboard if needed. It does take a long time for oils to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9055" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-04-14T14:41:39.753" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T14:41:39.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2020-04-14T17:09:57.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In reality you cannot. Sunsets are perceived in Light (RGB) where one can fade complimentary  colors. If done in paint or ink you wind up with a tertiary color which is typically muddy. This is the difference between subtractive color versus additive color. Is to answer your question, &quot;No it can't be done properly&quot; and it has plagued artists for centuries. One of the ways to cheat is to allow the one color to dry, paint the complimentary color and fade into it and add a white wash over it to create a sense of luminance and to soften the mud. First rule of color theory is 'don't fade complimentary colors&quot;. Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9057" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T17:09:57.850" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-14T19:04:36.927" Score="2" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a used car that had a lot of oxidation on it so I sand it, applied a primer and a cheap paint on it. Although the color code on the spray can matched the original code on the car, it seems that there are some differences in shade. It's not fully visible but there are some angles (like the one in the picture below) that looks very obvious. I don't want to paint it again or invest any money into serious body work, but I was wondering if it is possible to add some artistic elements that would diminish this shade difference from this angle. What colors or what trim elements would help to &quot;trick&quot; the eye? I'm not really an artist and I can't imagine if that is even possible, but any advice on how to make this possible would be great. Any creating (and hopefully cheap) idea would help a lot. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aYE1D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aYE1D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9058" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T14:04:00.340" Title="What artistic elements to add to a car to diminish a difference in color shade?" Tags="|material-selection|painting|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-16T09:06:28.780" Score="5" ViewCount="4763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like making origami and have been doing it for a while now, and to be honest I'm kind of bored of only using paper (I must say I haven't really experimented with different kinds of paper yet: I was meaning to go shopping for paper in the summer, but owing to the current situation :( I have postponed that). Also, I'm really curious as to what all materials I can use to make origami.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really like to know what materials you all use (including different kinds of paper) to make origami. Of course, the materials must be hard enough to sustain folds and thin enough so that they can be folded multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this is a very unspecific question, but I want it to be open-ended to invite all kinds of answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9056" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T18:36:21.057" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T01:37:47.590" Title="Different materials that can be used for origami" Tags="|material-selection|origami|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-16T15:42:23.003" Score="2" ViewCount="2560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen several videos and images of artists having their canvas stuck on the walls - paintings that they are currently working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how they stick/place it on there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These canvases are still unstretched and aren't framed, like those in the background of this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NEbOt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NEbOt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using sticky putty but it isn't so effective when stuck on canvas.  Also duck tape isn't so effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would appreciate any help, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9065" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T17:56:56.243" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T13:29:40.610" Title="What is the best method of hanging canvas on a wall to work on?" Tags="|painting|canvas|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2020-04-16T17:07:09.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Staple gun or hammering finishing nails to the wall. How will it be presented after completion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T17:07:09.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2020-04-16T17:53:04.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the canvas will have to endure a lot of tension and movement, especially when you work with large and rough gestures, and because canvas consists of fibres and has a lot of texture, using tape or putty won't work. You need hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;em&gt;Not The Face&lt;/em&gt;'s answer, I suggest using &lt;strong&gt;thumbtacks&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make sure to stretch the canvas as much as you can while attaching it to the wall, so it is as flat as possible, and you can work on it cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider grounding the canvas &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; pinning it to the wall, so it will become even tighter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In case you take this approach, staples or nails are more appropriate, as they have a stronger grip (depending, of course, on the length of the nails, staples, and thumb tacks, the method used to put them in the wall, and the material of the wall itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T17:53:04.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8065" CreationDate="2020-04-16T18:36:03.003" Score="9" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tinfoil / aluminium foil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Usually has a 'dirty' look, as all folds will be visible, but is very characteristic and quite easy to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XcLPz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XcLPz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Origami western pond turtle, designed by Robert J Lang. Photo by Sieb K.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/163662485@N05/41110025832&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baking paper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Has a beautiful translucent look and warm, light brown colour, which makes your projects look more organic. Good for creating 'origamized' lamps. Or baking stuff inside your origami:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aiZ9G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aiZ9G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;CREAM CHEESE MUFFINS BAKED &amp;amp; SERVED IN PARCHMENT BUNNY CUBES&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eyecandy.nanakaze.net/?p=491&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clear or coloured PVC sheets&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is quite a large group of plastics, but I'm referring to any type that is foldable.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Usually, you will be able to crease the folds into place, making it a good option for very clean origami objects. And it's transparent, so it will emphasize the nature of the object even more. And you can use heat to change the material, or get more rigid folds, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGudP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGudP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two birds made out of plastic origami&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stormthecastle.com/origami/plastic-origami.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polypropylene&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;More a sub-type of the last category, this is a sturdier type of plastic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPskg.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPskg.png&quot; alt=&quot;A polypropylene model of a variation of the Miura-ori fold pattern&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/figure/A-polypropylene-model-of-the-fold-pattern-depicted-in-the-previous-fi-gure-12_fig8_279633605&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For the heavy-duty origamist:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sheet metal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not so easy to work with - you need proper tools - but you can make durable, large scale, practical, and sturdy objects out of it. They're easy to spray paint, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c1EuD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c1EuD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://portfolios.risd.edu/gallery/12013535/Sheet-Metal-Form&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T18:36:03.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8072" CreationDate="2020-04-16T20:12:42.647" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to crocheting and am trying to find interesting patterns online. I'm especially interested in crocheting rugs. Sadly, I haven't had too much luck finding patterns for them. Can somebody recommend a good site or a person to get crocheting patterns from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9067" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-16T21:11:05.677" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T14:41:51.220" Title="Where can I find good crocheting patterns?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8071" CreationDate="2020-04-17T06:15:41.533" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best resource for all crochet and knitting needs by far is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ravelry&lt;/a&gt;. Ravelry requires you to create an account and provides an astounding library of patterns, yarns (so it's easy to find a substitute), a community platform and your own project notebook. Some paterns are paid-for, but many are available free. As of me writing this reply there are over 1600 crochet &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=crochet&amp;amp;pc=rug&amp;amp;sort=best&amp;amp;view=captioned_thumbs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rug patterns&lt;/a&gt; listed on Ravelry, some 600 of which are free&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Youtube is full of crochet tutorials if you look around a little. For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/Sheruknittingcom&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elena Rugal&lt;/a&gt; has a great library of crochet technique videos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to dig into public domain resources, Antique Pattern Library has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/crochet.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;section&lt;/a&gt; with hundreds of old magazines with patterns, though they may be hard to read for a modern, inexperienced crocheter because of the differences in writing style and extensive use of abbreviations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yarn brands publish their own patterns, for crochet I particularly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scheepjes.com/en/patterns/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scheepjes&lt;/a&gt;. Similarly, many magazines exist and can be bought both online and in paper, check out titles such as 'Inside Crochet', 'Molly Makes' or 'Love Crochet'. Note that most of these will be included in Ravelry's library&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there are countless crafty blogs, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mooglyblog.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moogly's&lt;/a&gt;, with tutorials and patterns&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T06:15:41.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2020-04-18T06:27:09.997" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try using clear plastic or saran type wrap, or a clear window winterizing plastic and use heat to shrink it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9072" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-18T09:46:31.000" LastActivityDate="2020-04-18T09:46:31.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8075" CreationDate="2020-04-19T15:09:18.753" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;The items in the pictures below happen to be plastic beach beds, but the same requirements could apply to upcycling old plastic items and needing to clean them first, or other crafting needs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left these outside during winter and they put on a layer of something. They are plastic and and I was wondering if anyone knows what can be used to clean them easier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycbN2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycbN2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AA9os.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AA9os.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9075" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-05-01T23:03:01.857" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T03:45:33.277" Title="How should I clean these plastic items?" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2020-05-02T21:20:48.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8074" CreationDate="2020-04-19T16:34:05.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like lichen.  On plastic, you can probably remove it with just soapy water and a bristle brush or nylon scrubbing pad (but don't use something abrasive enough to scratch up the plastic or it will provide more surface for the next round of it to adhere to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may help to first spray the lichen with vinegar, full strength with a little added soap as a wetting agent.  Wet the lichen well and let it dry.  Give it a few days for the lichen to die, then clean it as above.  I've also had good luck spraying it with household (sudsing) ammonia at the concentration recommended for cleaning, then giving it a few days before washing.  For really stubborn cases, do either treatment regimen and if some remains, repeat with the other (but don't mix vinegar and ammonia to try to combine both in one treatment; they will neutralize each other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a pressure washer, that should remove it with no special treatment, but start with a lower pressure (wider angle) nozzle and some distance to use the minimum pressure needed for cleaning without damaging the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-04-19T20:54:19.113" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T20:54:19.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8078" CreationDate="2020-04-20T07:37:20.863" Score="3" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day, I was watching The Office and noticed Jim's cap. I would like to find the name of that type of cap to make one of my own. Unfortunately, it's near to impossible to find a pattern when you don't know the name of the model you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name of the model depicted in the following screenshot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8dch.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8dch.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have a better look at it, it's at the end of the 10th episod from the 4th season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9077" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T14:08:24.770" Title="What is the name of that type of cap?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-08-07T11:25:25.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8076" CreationDate="2020-04-20T14:00:20.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like it goes by several different names:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Beret hunting cap&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Driving hunting cap&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gatsby hat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searched Amazon: Beret hunting cap:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PEqrL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PEqrL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gatsby hat on Google search gave these results:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5so7O.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5so7O.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this gets you in the right direction!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T14:00:20.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8076" CreationDate="2020-04-20T14:08:24.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_cap&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;flat cap&lt;/a&gt;, colloquially more commonly seen as &quot;newsboy cap&quot; in North America. Other areas will have other common names for it, including (as seen on Wikipedia) &quot;scally cap,&quot; &quot;bunnet,&quot; &quot;Dai cap,&quot; &quot;paddy cap,&quot; &quot;cheese-cutter,&quot; and &quot;driving cap.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're most likely to find patterns or instructions under the names &quot;flat cap,&quot; &quot;newsboy cap,&quot; and &quot;driving cap.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-04-20T14:08:24.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8082" CreationDate="2020-04-20T16:35:24.337" Score="4" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking around on google but can't seem to find anything similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qjpXP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qjpXP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know what is the name of that stitching pattern. This is a Chanel dress made out of cotton (search: &quot;Chanel White Pure Cotton Sleeveless Shift Dress with Flowers&quot;). It is also sold on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reebonz.com/ch/chanel/clothing/chanel-white-pure-cotton-sleeveless-shift-dress-with-flowers-size-40-12186626&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked for &quot;tuck&quot; stitching, but it's not quite that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me on this one? I'd really appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9080" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-20T19:11:26.883" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T14:34:00.163" Title="What is the name of this stitching pattern?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8079" CreationDate="2020-04-21T00:06:18.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible knit stitches. &#xA;From book: &lt;em&gt;Knitting Dictionary 800 stitches &amp;amp; patterns&lt;/em&gt; by Margaret Hamilton-Hunt Crown Publishing 1963.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JwvZV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JwvZV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mock Tunisian I&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8LbRz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8LbRz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;more mock Tunisian&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lace: “cellular”&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VhwOe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VhwOe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cellular knit stitches&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have luck looking up “open work.” There are a few styles of open work.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4cMf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4cMf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;openwork&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also esparto stitch or honeycombe.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CXLIq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CXLIq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;esparto&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2ZHd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2ZHd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;honeycombe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope these help in your search! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T14:34:00.163" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T14:34:00.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8071" CreationDate="2020-04-21T03:22:47.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Woolpatterns.com lists a lot of very nice patterns. I signed up for notifications from them and haven't been disappointed once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9082" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T03:22:47.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8079" CreationDate="2020-04-21T10:21:45.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filet_crochet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filet crochet&lt;/a&gt; (aka &quot;filet lace&quot;) because of the very regular, very angular squares. The thread seems to be very thin and slightly fluffy / fleecy because you cannot see the individual stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VImom.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VImom.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yarnspirations.com/row-en/filet-crochet-patterns-and-guides.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source and instruction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IRIta.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IRIta.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.interweave.com/article/crochet/7-tips-filet-crochet/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source, instructions and tips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Chanel wasn't the first to get the idea of creating a piece of clothing with filet lace, as proven by this page of a 2008 crochet handbook (German):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3rWWJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3rWWJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-04-21T10:32:41.583" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T10:32:41.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8071" CreationDate="2020-04-21T14:41:51.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there are a ton of sources, such as &lt;em&gt;Ravelry&lt;/em&gt;, that offer a lot of patterns, you have specifically asked for &quot;good patterns.&quot; Ravelry allows user submissions, which means that many patterns may have typos, defects, or other issues that make them considerably less than &quot;good.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, when looking for new patterns, you'll want to focus more on those that have been tested, not just written out. If a given pattern has a comment or review section attached to its page, read through it to identify any errors that others may have already found; if there are no reviews, check other patterns by the same author to see if they have a record of issues with their other patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beginner, you may wish to lean more on sites designed specifically for teaching. I've had very good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;https://thecrochetcrowd.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Crochet Crowd&lt;/a&gt;; many if not most of the patterns are linked (with permission) from the designs available through yarn companies directly, but with extensive notes and video tutorials that address both actual errors and design elements that may feel like errors but are correct. There are a few rug patterns available there, and the additional resources in the form of explanations and videos can help you gain the skills to start identifying good patterns from other sources and take them on as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T14:41:51.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-22T17:25:15.320" Score="1" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently came across an old version of HeroQuest whilst having a sort-out, and remembered back to when I used to paint these (as well as some other similar) miniatures. I also remember how much they cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was looking at some videos on YouTube and found a few people using general hardware store acrylics, and figured this would be a great idea, as they're inexpensive, and actually come in a great range of colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I don't like is the fact that they are in tubes, and you have to mix them together on a pallet. I thought, &quot;what if you could get some pots like the ones old Citadel Miniatures had back in the day?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a search at a local (UK) shop and couldn't find any empty pots, but found these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1UDwh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1UDwh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they're 'poster paint', not 'acrylic', but the pots are exactly what I'm looking for. But I wondered if painting miniatures with this is possible at all? It seems a shame to waste them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be using a general spray primer for the undercoat, and probably a clear spray for gloss, but will these affect the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9088" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-04-22T19:55:38.103" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T20:56:04.743" Title="Can you use Poster Paint for fantasy miniatures?" Tags="|paint|miniatures|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8065" CreationDate="2020-04-23T01:37:47.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some thoughts to supplement Joachim's answer.  Almost any foldable material can be used, but different characteristics are better for different purposes.  You will want different material for an intricately-folded animal, say, than a simple, sturdy box.  And if you want to dabble in curved folds, you generally need a stiffer material that will take and remember the creases.  The size of the model also affects the required paper -- tiny models usually require thin, crisp paper while large models need heavier paper to hold the shape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavier, stiffer media may require pre-scoring to get clean folds.  In a material like the heavy plastic sheet in Joachim's polypropylene example, the fold lines are often embossed into the material to create a thin area that acts like a hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few additional household materials that can be useful for origami:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Kraft paper is available in wide rolls for larger projects.  You can also cut large pieces from paper grocery bags.  Grocery bag stock is typically cruder than kraft paper, so it's more suited to models that don't involve intricate folds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Newsprint/newspaper is available in large sheets, but it's crude paper that isn't particularly strong.  Still it can be used for some models if you're careful.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wrapping paper is another that's available on wide rolls.  It tends to be thin but reasonably strong.  It's also colorful.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tyvek can be interesting for some models.  You can cut it from shipping envelopes.  At least one side is typically white with a little texture, which can look cool in a model.  It starts reasonably stiff, but gets soft if it flexes too much, which can make it messy to create creases only and precisely where you want them.  It does better if you pre-crease it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Label wrapping on plastic soda and juice bottles is typically a plastic film that is brilliant white so the printing pops.  It's opaque and the backside is still white.  You may have to work a little to get it to take and keep a sharp crease, but you can get some interesting results.  This was folded from the label on a cranberry juice bottle:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmMSW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmMSW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Manila folders are made from cardstock, and even after the tabs get tattered, the folder faces are often still in good shape.  Trimming off the tabs and fold scores of waste folders still leaves a large sheet of cardstock that can be good for things like sturdy boxes and curved-folds.  Here's an example from an old manila folder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pjhTC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pjhTC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum beverage cans provide a good source for some kinds of projects.  Joachaim's answer mentions sheet metal.  Typical sheet metal is tough to work with, but aluminum sheets cut from beverage cans is something anyone can work with after minimal practice.  Using the exterior surface provides a fun, recognizable pattern.  Using the interior surface provides a brushed metal look.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, though, that this material is brittle; it can be bent and re-bent only a few times before breaking, and requires pre-scoring for clean creases where you want them (although there are a few experts who manage to do it without pre-scoring, directly on the empty can).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beverage can sheets also take embossing well, and some people combine these to make things like embossed origami boxes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Mosy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Mosy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://hackaday.com/2011/01/21/making-boxes-from-soda-cans/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making Boxes From Soda Cans&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beverage can sheets also handle curved folds.  For example, I've seen the Hans-Werner Guth &quot;Jump&quot; design made from these sheets and it looked like a metal sculpture.  I can't lay my hands on a picture of that result, but for reference, this is the design I'm referring to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lvwQA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lvwQA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.littlebitofheart.com/news/2016/05/11/jump-unit-inspired-by-hans-werner-guth&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.littlebitofheart.com/news/2016/05/11/jump-unit-inspired-by-hans-werner-guth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just for completeness, some people focus on folding origami figures from currency (money origami or dollar-bill origami), because it's novel and the high quality paper is a good medium.  Needless to say, the media makes that an expensive hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NL6aM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NL6aM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://diyprojectsforteens.com/diy-money-origami/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY Money Origami&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T01:37:47.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8084" CreationDate="2020-04-23T11:43:51.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly advise against using poster paints for miniature painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poster_paint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Poster paints&lt;/a&gt; are described as (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a distemper paint that usually uses a type of gum-water or glue size as its binder. It either comes in large bottles or jars or in a powdered form. &lt;strong&gt;It is normally a &quot;cheap&quot; paint used in school art classes&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the correct primer the paints should be able to stick to the miniatures, but in contrast to acryllic paints they stay water soluble after drying. They are vulnerable to moisture and abrasion and rub off while handling the miniatures. A protective sealing coat could help, but any sealing (either spay or brush-on) is a liquid, which starts dissolving the paints again. You'd need to very carefully spray several thin coats of sealing or you risk your paints bleeding and loosing details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem, though, is the quality of the paints, more precisely the pigment density. Poster paints are usually cheep and intended for kids to paint on paper. You can have a whole lot of fillers and just a tiny amount of (expensive) pigments in those paints, because all they have to do is cover a white piece of paper with a colored paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In miniature painting, you want to apply coats of paint as thinly as possible to preserve all the details in the miniature. You may want to layer different colors or highlight a detail on a dark background. You need paints with a high pigment density for this job, or you'll be forced to literally cover the miniature with a colored paste, just to paint a white dot on a black background. That's usually the reason why dedicated paints for miniatures are as expensive as they are. They contain &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more pigments than your average hobby paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T12:02:52.063" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T12:02:52.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8084" CreationDate="2020-04-23T12:02:04.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend using poster paint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It has &lt;strong&gt;relatively large colour particles&lt;/strong&gt;. This makes it harder to use for detailed painting, as well making it more opaque, allowing for less blending options.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Poster paint is usually &lt;strong&gt;dissolvable by water&lt;/strong&gt;, making your miniatures more susceptible to discolouration. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is cheap for a reason: the &lt;strong&gt;pigments are cheap and coarse&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;not very lightfast&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;strong&gt;easily gets muddy&lt;/strong&gt;, since many hues actually consist of several colours.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As always, there are more expensive poster paints, that have far less of these defects, but buying those would defeat the purpose of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T12:02:04.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2020-04-23T14:12:15.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that with Bockingford paper I can still rub out the pencil, even though it's under the paint! Other than that I don't think it matters really if it shows through anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the drawing was erased without the paint rubbing out:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/04jSW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wd4xE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9091" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T23:02:26.490" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T23:02:26.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-24T01:27:46.290" Score="3" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am practising the head construction based on Loomis method but finding it difficult to draw the extreme angles, and the neck placement on them, so, I haven't moved to the facial features yet. I have bought Loomis's book “Drawing head and hands&quot; and have been reading it. However, this book doesn't provide most of the drawing of extreme angles of head along with the neck placement. It also doesn't provide the clear drawings with facial features on them. How can I draw them in easier way with necks and how can I draw the facial features even on those extreme angles of heads ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-04-29T19:16:14.527" LastActivityDate="2020-04-29T19:16:14.527" Title="Loomis head construction from extreme angles" Tags="|drawing|sketching|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2020-09-24T17:03:10.500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-24T19:20:33.620" Score="3" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to do print and cut stickers and some don't work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached two examples — the one with the flag always comes out perfect, but the illustrations with the white outlines always come out offset, even if I try to cut them without the white border and with bleed on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The third image is a literal photo of Cricut Design Space, showing the illustrations have an even white border.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because some come out perfect and some don't, I'm comfortable saying it's not a lighting or calibration issue. (Also, I have adjusted the lighting and recalibrated multiple times.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQgft.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQgft.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pX6lo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pX6lo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxGOp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxGOp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9095" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2020-05-02T21:24:35.967" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T21:24:35.967" Title="Why does my Cricut cut some images in the right place, and some off to the left?" Tags="|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2020-05-02T21:27:49.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8093" CreationDate="2020-04-25T15:59:58.427" Score="5" ViewCount="4640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a black leather belt whose hole got so wide (due to using the buckle) that the belt cannot be safely used any more to hold the trousers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hood.de/i/schuchard-friese-guertel-82338253.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.hood.de/i/schuchard-friese-guertel-82338253.htm&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUDtO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUDtO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to repair the hole? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9099" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-04-27T19:26:24.407" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T19:26:24.407" Title="How to repair leather belts?" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8092" CreationDate="2020-04-25T20:48:48.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the hole is being destroyed, you may be wearing the belt tighter than the leather will support.  If the belt is otherwise in good shape, you may be able to make a cosmetic repair to the hole, then use the belt at the next looser hole.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cosmetic repair:&lt;/strong&gt; If the leather is torn, try the grommet solution, below, after this repair.  If the hole is just stretched, try pressing it flat, using a tool to push the leather around the hole back into shape.  If needed, use shoe dye or a Magic Marker of the same color to restore color to areas around the hole.  Then apply super glue (thin liquid version) on the backside to saturate the leather around the hole.  Cover both sides of the repair with baking paper (it's silicone treated so the glue won't stick to it), put the repair under a weight, like a heavy book, and leave it overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Functional repair:&lt;/strong&gt; If you want to continue using the belt at the same hole, there are limited options for a repair that will hold up comparable to the original leather.  That type of buckle typically has a short hook that won't reach through the thickness of an added patch layer on the back.  You need a way to reinforce the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most practical way to do that is with a grommet.  If the buckle hook is right at the edge of the buckle and the grommet would be exposed and noticeable, you have a couple of choices.  One is to grind away the exposed edge of the grommet head before installing it (you then need to be careful about its orientation when you install it).  Another is to just add grommets to all exposed holes for a uniform appearance (they can be colored to match the belt, but they won't have the dress appearance of plain leather).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the cosmetic repair described above.  For the grommet going into the damaged hole, augment it with two things.  One is a thin metal washer on the back side.  They may come with the grommets.  If not, cut one from a beverage can (just be sure there are no sharp edges or burs that can damage the trousers).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grommet may have a &quot;cupped&quot; head to grab the leather and spread the stress over more than just the hole.  If not, glue the grommet and washer to the leather when installing it (even with a cupped head, it wouldn't hurt to glue the washer to reinforce the leather).  Use a neoprene-based glue like E6000, and wipe off the excess.  Let that dry for a few days (or at least until you can no longer smell the solvent) before using the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That type of buckle typically attaches to the belt via a clamp on the backside.  The clamp pries open and snaps shut.  You can just replace the leather portion with another of the same width.  You can buy the strap without a buckle, or buy another belt long enough that you can cut off the buckle and insert the leather strap in this buckle.  One strategy is just to buy a cheap belt the right width, cut off the buckle and use the strap for as long as it lasts, then replace it again when it wears out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-04-25T20:54:09.730" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T20:54:09.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8097" CreationDate="2020-04-28T04:12:21.567" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want craft ideas because I have a heap of plastic straws that I want to use for some sort of craft. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9106" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T14:39:03.723" Title="How to utilise plastic straws?" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-04-28T14:46:47.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8103" CreationDate="2020-04-28T10:07:30.230" Score="5" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to attempt to bind some booklets myself. An issue is that the paper I will be using (darkroom paper, to be exact), has only one printable side. Therefore, were I to bind the booklets the regular way, I would end up with spreads of which only a single page would have anything printed on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tackle this issue, I decided to do layflat binding. This way an entire spread can be printed. However, this also mean other spreads will have two unprintable pages. For this reason I intend to somehow attach the pages of these empty spreads to each other; whether with some kind of adhesive or perhaps by sewing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried that using an adhesive will create an uneven surface, as I think of some experiences with Pritt sticks and regular 80 gsm paper (I must add, this paper is thicker at 190 gsm). Sewing, on the other hand, may not look very clean as I have very little experience with this method- and none with paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, are there any 'clean' methods you can recommend me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9108" LastEditorUserId="9108" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T11:01:14.333" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T06:17:25.567" Title="How do I attach the back of sheets of paper when layflat binding a book?" Tags="|adhesives|sewing|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8095" CreationDate="2020-04-28T14:39:03.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you also have some thread and a long needle, you could jump into exploring geometrical shapes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpXPi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpXPi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To build them, thread three straws (or parts of them) and tie them together to build a triangle. Then add further triangles at the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8081" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T14:39:03.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-29T18:44:51.503" Score="2" ViewCount="1802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading Loomis' book &amp;quot;Drawing the head and hands&amp;quot; and practising Loomis' method of head construction. But while reading the book, I discovered that to put the features correctly on the head and to render them perfectly, I will have to know the anatomy and planes of the head.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For anatomy, I have anatomy reference such as images of the skull. But to draw planes of the head, Loomis shows the planes of the head in an unclear way; I couldn't understand the process of how to draw the planes of the head from a specific angle.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Could you please help me out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hanN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hanN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page No 29, 30&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2020-09-22T21:38:13.323" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T21:38:13.323" Title="Planes of the head (Loomis Method)" Tags="|sketching|portrait-drawing|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3267" CreationDate="2020-04-29T22:07:55.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not as skilled as most people here. In trimming a Latigo  leather belt, I used a soldering iron to lightly sear the edges smooth, use some very fine grit sandpaper, then burnish with a smooth tool, some water and working it a lot. It's amazing what a little water and lots of rubbing will do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9118" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T12:20:08.280" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T12:20:08.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8099" CreationDate="2020-04-29T22:11:44.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;planes of the head&quot; are the simplification of the constant curving of the head into areas that share a similar orientation. Meaning, take the curved surfaces of the head and flatten those surfaces to get the fewest flat areas while preserving the basic volume of the head. Think of the forehead, it is basically one big area that faces in a certain direction. The tops of the cheeks another area that generally faces in one direction, the temples another. Identify and outline these areas to get your &quot;planes of the head&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loomis is suggesting that there is a formulaic approach you can take to do this that results in the same general set of flat areas that to together make up a angular, flat paneled version of a human head. Then you have simplified shapes that will be easier to put into perspective and serve as the under-drawing for a smoother final version. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be able to draw an arbitrary flat plane shape (a polygon) from different perspectives. If you can draw a given triangle or trapezoid from different points of view then to draw a head you would use the same technique with the collection of arbitrary flat plane shapes that you have extracted from the head and memorized according to Loomis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-04-29T22:11:44.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8099" CreationDate="2020-04-30T01:23:13.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to put into words exactly how to describe what the book is describing. Like stated above, 'you just have to practice.'&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When looking at the page posted above, I also struggled in understanding the concept as well(long ago) and find it very confusing. &#xA;Instead of seeing it as planes, I tried to see it as more coloration, like topographic maps. Depending how the head is titled, the angles change.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IBdcf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IBdcf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(The coloration I added began with that the artist started with number wise, the rest of the coloration was my attempt to demonstrate the rest of the planes that seemed blurry at the bottom)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the head is tilted down(like the bottom center picture) the jaw line is farther away from the viewer. The nose is closer to the viewer. When the head is tilted to the left or right(like the color image on the bottom left). Depending on which direction, you can tell the opposite eye appears to be further away, the blue coloration is closest to the viewer.&#xA;The planes are a way to let the learner that there is depth there. Planes are what give the human face realism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T01:23:13.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8096" CreationDate="2020-04-30T02:51:05.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's a &quot;standard&quot; glue for this, but I would try rubber cement (regular solvent-based type, not water-based).  It doesn't warp the paper like water-based glues, and doesn't leave chunks like glue sticks can do.  The layer dries to a small fraction of the thickness applied, so variations in application thickness aren't visible.  With two sheets of heavy paper glued together, it won't be brittle when pages bend in handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brushing it on the normal way holds paper well, but the paper can be easily separated.  There's a stronger way to apply it.  Brush a thin coat on both sheets and let it dry without joining the sheets.  Then brush another, thicker coat onto one of the sheets and while it is still wet, carefully align and join the sheets starting at one edge.  If you join them while the glue is still wet, you may have a brief ability to adjust the alignment a little if it's off.  If you wait for the second layer to dry before joining the sheets, it will be like contact cement -- the alignment will remain the way you joined them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't hurt to immediately press the sandwich between two flat surfaces without shifting them (it doesn't need much pressure, and just a couple of minutes; putting the page in a cardstock folder like used for hot lamination will help avoid accidentally shifting one sheet when you press them).  Give the page maybe an hour for all of the rubber cement to thoroughly dry before working with it.  If any excess is pushed out, it will easily rub off when dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &quot;two coat&quot; method gives a pretty secure, permanent bond.  The sheets won't peel apart in normal handling, especially if they're well-aligned so one sheet doesn't have an exposed edge to catch.  Current formulations of rubber cement are acid-free and have archival life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T02:56:38.273" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T02:56:38.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-04-30T19:53:56.053" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to recreate the plastic cover which holds the art cover, of a DVD or Bluray case. I have suitable transparent plastic, but don't know how I should join/glue the edges to the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried using super glue, however that leaves a visible gluey area behind the clear plastic cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How might I achieve a simmilarly clean join as a real DVD/Bluray case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9120" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T21:06:35.160" Title="DVD/Bluray Plastic Cover" Tags="|adhesives|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8105" CreationDate="2020-04-30T21:06:35.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The case components are each molded as a single piece, not glued from flat sheets.  They're dirt cheap to purchase already made; you'll go through a lot of work to make one from scratch.  Consider just buying one (or a package of them when they're practically given away on sale).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your goal is making one from scratch, solvent welding would be the way to do it without marring the plastic with excess glue.  The edges to be joined need to be very smooth and mate together well.  Typically, the edge of one piece is butted against the   face or edge of another piece.  A micro-pipette is used to allow capillary action to draw a tiny amount of solvent into the joint (which requires good mating for capillary action to work), which chemically welds the surfaces together.  Lucite objects are often assembled this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.micromark.com/SAME-STUFF-APPLICATOR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this product available from Micro-Mark&lt;/a&gt;, I assume you can get the same or similar at hobby stores or from a retailer like Amazon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pb9HM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pb9HM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solvent needs to be appropriate for the type of plastic you're using.  The applicator is a glass capillary tube with an extremely fine metal capillary tube attached.  You dip the applicator in the solvent and the solvent is drawn into the tube.  Then you touch the tip to the joint and solvent is drawn between the mating surfaces (and nowhere else).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T21:06:35.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5861" CreationDate="2020-04-30T22:28:36.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often do that when testing colors or trying out ideas. I use the gesso as is and paint 3 to 5 thin layers. By the time you finish you first layer the paper stiffens and doesn't bend. For economy, i have also used, for unimportant tests, home painting acrylic primers. Once the gesso is applied sand it as smooth as marble is you want to preserve delicate brushes and paint seamlessly without showing brushstrokes, or as smooth as eggshells if you will use underpaint and thin washes and many glaze layers, or keep it rough if you want more bite and use strong brushes and marked strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T22:28:36.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2020-04-30T22:50:07.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use thumbtacks too, sometimes even just tape for small canvases. It is easiest to use prestreched, factory gessoed canvas, but you can also stretch the canvas on a temporary frame, gesso it and then unmount it and, relatively, paint on it loose, the gesso drying pretty much stiffens it and once you are done painting, you can stretch it very tight (though it is much harder to stretch a finished painting) as the paint is still flexible (I do it with oil paintings, it maybe different for other mediums or very thick paint) it will &quot;adapt&quot; and it won't crack on you or something. Do not apply varnishes before stretching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastEditorUserId="85" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T22:56:12.860" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T22:56:12.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8124" CreationDate="2020-05-01T15:53:00.333" Score="5" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to make a Mother’s Day art project with my toddler. My idea is to trace their hand on some special paper, use a craft knife to cut the hand outline out, and then  pull off the hand. My toddler would then paint the paper, and once done, I would pull off the entire top layer of paper so only the hand print persisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does paper like this exist? What’s it called? Any recommendations on where I can obtain it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus if a kind of paper exists that reacts to heat and causes it to dissolve, letting me use a laser printer to cut out the hand print instead of a knife for better accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9123" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T15:24:52.280" Title="A kind of paper where you can pull away the top layer?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8111" CreationDate="2020-05-01T17:02:53.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope I understood your plan... You want to create an outline of the hand, let your toddler draw all over the place, then remove any paint from outside of the outline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's exactly what &lt;strong&gt;masking tape&lt;/strong&gt; / painters tape is there for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably use a somewhat thicker paper or white cardstock as your base. Cover the whole project with a layer of masking tape and outline the hand of your toddler. Then carefully cut through the masking tape along the outline and remove the masking tape inside the outline. Let your toddler have some fun with paints and when they are finished and everything is dried, you peel off the remaining masking tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your child is supposed to color the hand with pencils, the masking tape could be dislodged in places. I think crayons would work very well for this project and create a nice, sharp outline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T17:02:53.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-02T14:13:39.907" Score="3" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the shape of an eye like exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am learning to draw (portrait in pencil, front face view).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally and intuitively I can draw an eye correctly (real-like), but I cannot explain how even to myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I understand it is some &quot;artistic line&quot;, but maybe it is possible to explain it more specifically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say, &quot;draw two circles, then ellipse 1 on the left tangent to circle 1, ellipse 2 on the right which is shifted a bit relative to ellipse 1...&quot;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I saw the following ideas fail, but (2) and (5) seem a bit close (but not enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gs6SA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gs6SA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;paint&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;vs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/olHwO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/olHwO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real shape is very tricky!  But painters draw (reproduce it) perfectly and easily!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Mathematically seems like Conchoid of Nicomedes looks a bit like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwwxI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwwxI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I need some practical solution, like this (maybe any better):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zzrrp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zzrrp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9127" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T11:32:48.420" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T11:32:48.420" Title="How to draw eyes shape - more-or-less formal algorithm" Tags="|drawing|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1730" CreationDate="2020-05-02T16:35:32.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most one-gallon water jugs at the grocery store come with mostly clear plastic lids that are thick enough to protect the paper, yet see-through enough for accurate positioning of the compass tip. If the water bottle lid slides around too much on the paper, you can rough it up a bit by rubbing it with sandpaper, with a file, on the bottom of a coffee mug, out on the sidewalk, or out on a rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T16:35:32.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8114" CreationDate="2020-05-02T19:23:45.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the A&amp;amp;C, Code Complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing about eyes, is that all of them are not the same shape. Sometimes the eyeball can be referred to as, 'football shaped', 'almond shaped', and many different other types. Here area  few different ideas below (You can even Google &quot;Different eye shapes&quot;:     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jqKw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jqKw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the image you provided above, there isn't that many 'dark lines.' in the eyeball, eyelid itself. Most of the 'dark areas' are only in the eyelashes, and pupil. If you look at the bottom eyelid there is no dark lines at all. The only dark parts you see in the bottom eyelid is the eyelashes. The corner right part of the eye is darker(where it attached to the upper lid. But is not black either. It is more of a medium brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having to learn about blending and shading, tortillon AKA blending stumps can help. Also looking into drawing pencils that do not write as hard.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(tortillon image below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TuxX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TuxX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Different hardness of drawing pencils below)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Tdfh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Tdfh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those tools will get you in the right spot to begin to draw the human eye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T19:23:45.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8114" CreationDate="2020-05-02T20:11:28.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What determines eye shape&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand eye shape, it helps to think about what creates that shape. &#xA;Eyeballs are spherical.  They're mostly inside the skull, but a dome of the eyeball protrudes from the eye socket.  The dome is covered by a thin layer of skin with a straight slit across the diameter (eyelids).  The slit is roughly, but usually not exactly, horizontal (but symmetrical).  The eyelids get pulled open around the dome by muscles that open the slit from the middle, and the skin at the middle of the slit has more freedom to stretch than at the corners, so the basic shape of the opening is curved, like an arc segment of a large ellipse top and bottom.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact shape of the eye opening and orientation of the slit are affected by the surrounding facial structures and features, the strength of the muscles, condition of the eyelid skin, fat deposits, etc., so it's a little more complex than two arcs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious deviation from two simple arcs is the inside (nose-side) corner.  That contains a pinkish, sort of wedge-shaped nodule (lacrimal caruncle).  Instead of coming to a sharp point, the upper and lower lid often do more of a tight curve around that.  That results in the curve of lower lid (and sometimes the upper lid) having an inflection (reversal of the direction of the curve) at the end.  Several different skin structures meet in this corner, so if you are drawing it in fine detail, there can be a lot of anatomical variation from person to person in the folds, size, and shape of that tiny spot (which means that precisely how you draw it doesn't matter that much if you aren't drawing a specific person's face).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little more subtle deviation is that the peaks (widest spot) of the two arcs aren't the same distance from the center of the face; on the lower lid it's a little farther to the outside.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some considerations beyond the shape of the eyelid opening&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the shape of the eyelid opening, a prominent variation is the fold of the upper eyelid (or in some cases, almost no visible fold, which would be drawn with just shading).  This contributes a lot to the differences in eye appearance.  There are a number of common variations, some influenced by heredity, aging, or medical conditions.  The &quot;hooded&quot; eye shape in Lyssagal's answer is largely due to the eyelid fold, and often develops with age.  There are discussions online that go into detail that can be found by Googling &quot;eyelid fold&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Lyssagal's answer describes, common human variations and conditions, and to some extent things like race, result in some general eye shapes, but the exact shape is a continuum.  If you start with the principles driving eye shape, you can vary the details quite a bit and there will be someone somewhere with eyes that look similar to what you draw.  You can sketch a general shape and if it doesn't match the shape you're trying for, adjust the aspect that doesn't look right.  Comparing it to pictures of actual eyes will help to identify what's off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that all of this describes &quot;at rest&quot; open eyes.  The shape of the eye opening, as well as the surrounding features, like eye brows, forehead, and cheeks, are affected by emotional expressions (and other things).  Beyond just placing eye shapes properly on the face, fine tuning will let the face express emotion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the opening of the lids, the location of the iris and pupil depends on where the person is looking.  It will be in the center of the opening only if the person is looking straight ahead.  Eyeballs rotate to a particular direction (where the person wants to look) independent of the eyelids.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, holding your eyeballs in a rotated position is hard; the muscles weren't designed for that.  To gaze at something that isn't straight ahead, you quickly adjust your head or body so that it is.  So off-center pupils would indicate more of a glance at something, like instinctively responding to something that appears in peripheral vision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're drawing both eyes, there is also an influence of stereoscopic vision.  If the person is looking at something in the distance that isn't straight ahead, the pupils of both eyes will be off-center (left/right and/or up/down), in the same direction and by the same amount.  If the person is looking at something close to their face, the pupils will be close to the vertical middle of the eye, but both off-center horizontally a little toward the nose (the closer the object is to their face, the more cross-eyed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Algorithmic solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulling all that together into something &quot;algorithmic&quot;, I'd suggest something like this as a starting point for the shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make some marks for the location and size of the eyes, and their centers.  Sketch a rectangular box that will contain each eye.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sketch in the horizontal center line with the desired orientation.  If it is going to be rotated off horizontal, slightly higher on the outside is more common than slightly lower on the outside.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rest is drawing arcs, which can be defined by a curved line passing through three points.  The main arcs for the eye opening are defined by their end points and peak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sketch in the upper arc.  The peak will be at the top middle of the box.  The curve will intersect the &quot;horizontal&quot; centerline at the sides of the box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sketch in the lower arc.  It will be a similar curve, but slightly smaller.  It will intersect the &quot;horizontal&quot; centerline on the outside of the eye at the same place as the upper curve.  The peak (if it's at the bottom, is it still a peak?), will intersect the bottom of the box slightly in the outside direction of center (maybe even with the edge of the pupil instead of the center).  The arc will intersect the inside end of the &quot;horizontal&quot; centerline about as far from the edge of the box as the diameter of the pupil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With that as a framework, from the inside end of the upper arc, there will be a straight section of the &quot;horizontal&quot; centerline, then the lower arc will intersect it at an angle, forming a corner.  You will be rounding off that corner between the centerline and lower arc with a curved line from the end of the upper arc that blends into the lower arc about a quarter of the way across the lower arc.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That gives you a starting point for a basic eye shape.  You can modify and fine-tune the shape from there.  The lower lid is often slightly more sharply curved at its peak than the upper lid.  The upper lid usually covers more of the iris than the lower lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you draw in the iris and pupil, they are often not in the vertical center of the eye opening.  People often assume a posture where their head is tilted slightly forward and then they look &quot;up&quot; a little to see straight ahead, and shorter people look up a little for eye contact when talking to someone taller.  In those cases, the bottom of the pupil will rest on the &quot;horizontal&quot; centerline instead of being vertically centered on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of this approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RFIAM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RFIAM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the proportions from the picture of the eye in the question to see how closely the algorithm replicates the shape of that eye as a starting point.  I used a pen on some graph paper and a piece of cardboard as a spline to create the arcs.  Here's the procedure I used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used a 7x16 grid to match the aspect ratio in the image, so 7 units by 16 units.  The pupil in the image had a diameter of 2 units, so I used that.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The eye in the picture has a centerline slightly rotated, so I tilted the horizontal centerline by 1/2 unit at the sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I positioned the pupil so the left edge was at the horizontal center and the bottom edge rested on the centerline.  I used a dotted line to show the pupil location.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I put a dot at the three points that define each arc -- the end points and peak.  Those locations are described above.  I used a cardboard spline to create an arc connecting the three dots and traced it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cut off the inside corner of the centerline and lower arc with a gradual convex arc from the end of the top arc.  It merges with the bottom arc roughly 6 units from the edge of the box.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a starting point, the three arcs give an almost perfect match to the eye in the picture.  Eyes of other shapes would require a little more adjustment and cleanup, but this is a good starting point because it's based on the mechanics that drive the basic shape of the opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-05-04T02:38:15.987" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T02:38:15.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8119" CreationDate="2020-05-02T22:52:00.617" Score="6" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife is knitting me this wonderful cabled sweater pattern: &lt;a href=&quot;https://knitrowan.com/en/free-patterns/cole&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://knitrowan.com/en/free-patterns/cole&lt;/a&gt; and she is about to finish the back panel. However, the very last RS row before casting off for the neck has a Cr12F and a Cr12B in it. Then there was a WS row, and then casting off for the neck. Before she continues doing the front as well, the cast-off stitches look a bit twisted because of these two large crosses. Will this fix itself when picking up these cast-off stitches and knitting the ribbing around the neck, or will this cause a strangely twisted shape in the whole neck? If so, what is the best way to fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E: added a picture&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHNSk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HHNSk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The neckline in question with the crosses and the twists&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9129" LastEditorUserId="9129" LastEditDate="2020-05-03T19:17:23.153" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T19:17:23.153" Title="Is it okay to cast off for neckline near crosses (cables)?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8118" CreationDate="2020-05-03T15:24:32.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the photo of the front, there is a crossing in the cable just two rows below the cast off/pick up for the neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with the pattern, and see how the stitches work out in the casting off.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you see them pulling so much that you do not like it you can unpick that bit of casting off, drop all the stitches of the cable, let them run down to just below that last cross and pick them up in knit without the twist. A crochet needle and a (short) cable needle will make the picking up easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can just forget to make that last crossing, (not following the pattern,) but do so on both sides of the front and/or back, not just on the left or on the right (easy mistake to make.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can make the last crossing on the front but not on the back, if you think that is best.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T15:24:32.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-04T07:25:04.880" Score="3" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue happened to many airbrushes using cone shaped nozzles: badger 175.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried putting it into fire and the freezer, but none of those methods worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyeUW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyeUW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-04T15:32:38.930" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T14:51:38.830" Title="How to fix or remove a stuck cone shape airbrush nozzle" Tags="|maintenance|airbrush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8120" CreationDate="2020-05-04T07:25:04.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Taiwanese factory sent me an email to help me fix an airbrush having the nozzle stuck in the head cap 15 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to use a needle-nosed plier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the needle-nosed plier's left tip on the left edge, and the right tip of the needle-nosed plier into the nozzle's hole. Grip using little force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the needle-nosed plier's right tip on the right edge, the left tip of the needle-nosed plier into the nozzle's hole, grip it using little force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The nozzle falls off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oK3vO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oK3vO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9134" LastEditorUserId="9134" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T14:51:38.830" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T14:51:38.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8114" CreationDate="2020-05-05T00:00:54.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start, it's good to have a concept of the anatomy of an eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the eye is a sphere:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7R2D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7R2D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It lies at the centre of the eye socket or orbit of the skull, out of which it protrudes partially (the shading on the eye ball is meant to demonstrate this):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yR5uz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yR5uz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Like all images here, some parts are exaggerated, and this render should not be regarded as anatomically correct&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around the eyeball, stretching beyond the orbit on all sides, there is a sphincter, a muscle that (partially) controls the aperture of the eye. This is a layer of skin that is like :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQ0cw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQ0cw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that there is skin, most importantly both eyelids, which join on either side of the eye. The eyelids are most decisive for the way an eye appears to us:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uG3yh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uG3yh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To draw this basic setup, imagine a sphere through which an imaginary line crosses (&lt;em&gt;fig. I&lt;/em&gt;). Mark the points where this line exits the sphere, and imagine slicing about 1/8th of the sphere from one point to the next (&lt;em&gt;fig. II&lt;/em&gt; - don't think about the comparison too much, though), and mark those cutting lines. This is that typical almond shape of the eye. When at this point you draw the iris, these lines - the inner edges of the rims of the eyelids - will adjust their shapes to it (&lt;em&gt;fig. III&lt;/em&gt;, and the adjacent image): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9DZfY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9DZfY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05jBV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05jBV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Notice how the (lines of the) eyelids 'follow' the iris as the eye changes direction&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These lines - the edges of the eyelids - are three-dimensional, so we add an additional line to each one, as they curve outward from the eye (&lt;em&gt;fig. IV&lt;/em&gt;). When these are all in place, the basic construction is finished, and we can add detail and shading (&lt;em&gt;fig. V&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9X1A6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9X1A6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These details consist most notably of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &lt;strong&gt;cornea, pupil, and iris&lt;/strong&gt;. The cornea slightly protrudes from the eyeball (causing the eyelids to bend along; see image below), behind which the pupil and iris lie. What's important is that the iris has a specific colour and the pupil is black (and to a lesser extent that when viewed from oblique angles, we can see the refracting fluid in the anterior chamber (the space between the cornea and iris) acting like a lens):&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rnrz6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rnrz6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the so-called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;lacrimal caruncle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, that small spherical piece of tissue on the inner side of each eye, that is so defining for the shape of the eye.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Two things are important about it: as a circular addition to the almond shape, it &lt;em&gt;droops a little&lt;/em&gt; (see image), and this nodule lies a little in front of the eye, causing the conjunction of the eyelids on the medial side to be almost on the same plane as the outer extremity of the eyeball (see image - it pushes this inner side of the eyelids a little forward):&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOmwY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOmwY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &lt;strong&gt;upper eyelid&lt;/strong&gt;, which can be folded, or appear as a single fold:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxCZc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxCZc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &lt;strong&gt;eyelashes&lt;/strong&gt;, extending from the eyelids' margins. Rendered, they usually appear as thick lines rather than individual hairs, especially on the lower eyelid. The eyelashes follow the curve of the rims of the eyelids, as well as curving away from the eye. You can treat them as planes, and fill in the individual hairs afterwards:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/te4wO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/te4wO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the eye reflects light is beautifully indicated by some old statues, which 'invert' the pupils to simulate light hitting the cornea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2Qsc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R2Qsc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Portrait of a Roman Youth, 190-200&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hermitagemuseum.org/wps/portal/hermitage/digital-collection/06.%20Sculpture/192350/!ut/p/z1/jZBNT8MwDIb_Cjv0SOKmTdvtFgWJMTaCxlfIBXVV1ha1TZWlq8SvJyAuICjzzdLj14-NFZZYdfmxLnNXmy5vfP-skhfBWBJGHFaC0wtgYntLt_zmEsIYP30C8EcxwOqU-QlATcev_lvgLyB2wzclVn3uqvO62xssIUFnd8XQ9G6wGstwTiIKXkb9iLu6Tn3cPV0K8cgJj7-AaaF616KxaBEgSiiE0RwgS0kaZ8mHDet2UeZtrN5rqy0arH9z5Vx_WAQQwDiOqDSmbDQqTBvAbyOVOTgsv5O4bx_k23oJr7Q5rtls9g4TDqU0/dz/d5/L2dBISEvZ0FBIS9nQSEh/?lng=en&amp;amp;lng=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T00:00:54.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8111" CreationDate="2020-05-05T17:14:06.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Elmy has the right idea with masking tape, I have found that, in practice, even the gentlest painter's tape tends to tear up paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want here is &lt;strong&gt;temporary repositionable adhesive (glue).&lt;/strong&gt; It's available under a variety of brand names (Aleene's Repositionable Tacky Spray, Aleene's Tack-It Over and Over, Elmer's Craftbond Repositionable Glue, 3M Spray Mount Repositionable Adhesive, etc). These glues come in a variety of forms (spray, stick, and liquid) and function much like the line of glue on the back of a Post-It note--they hold in place, and peel away easily. Because of how gentle the glue is, it's very unlikely to damage paper when pulled away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a project like yours, you may wish to use a stick or stick and spray combination, to ensure you get enough adhesive around the edges of the cut-out to prevent glue from bleeding underneath. Cut the paper, run the glue around the cut edge, and follow the instructions on how long to let it dry before adhering it to your heavier ground, pressing along the cut edge to ensure it's as sealed as possible before giving it to the child to paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2020-05-13T15:24:52.280" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T15:24:52.280" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8111" CreationDate="2020-05-07T02:16:45.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is called &lt;strong&gt;frisk&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;frisket film&lt;/strong&gt;. While not a single piece of paper with removable top it allows you to create essentially the same set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frisket is a thin film sheet with low tack adhesive on one side. You attach it to your paper, cut out your shape, lift off the sections you want to paint, then let your child go to town on it. When done just lift off the frisk. Some are even reusable so you can make multiple versions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is basically a stencil that sticks to the paper. I have used it often when doing air brush work and it is very versatile and easy to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even cut it before attaching to the paper, so the laser cutter option is there too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2020-05-09T13:57:23.213" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T13:57:23.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8064" CreationDate="2020-05-07T13:54:49.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add high contrast polka-dots all over the car. This will totally upstage the hand painted areas and make the fact that they don't match moot. It could be any other pattern, like zig-zagging lines, but polka-dots are the most effective due to the euphoria polka-dots trigger in the human mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW - You will never be able to just cheaply match an original or pro paint job. Auto paint is a multi-layered process involving wet sanding the layers, applying a clear top coat, etc... with specialty paints. With metallic (or flake) paint that gets even more involved. Pro painters often brag about the number of layers of top coat they use in metallic finishes to get &quot;depth&quot; to the effect. And even then, using the same color will not match because of fading, even if slight, of the original paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T13:54:49.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2020-05-08T06:40:59.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really you're better off doing the main background, which is blue (top), then yellow (top), and black (middle bottom), and blue again on the bottom. Make the yellow bold when you put the first coat on, then let it dry. Once it’s dry, or at least partially, you can go back and add detail. That’s when you go over the blue again on some parts, and lightly add white to your blue and blend it into the yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9143" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T09:21:44.527" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T09:21:44.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-08T21:50:20.450" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of getting a flex shaft for jewelry and stone setting. I have seen most installs require a stand but every once in a while I'll see a video/pic where someone has forgone the stand and just placed it on their desk. Is it possible to have a flex shaft without a stand? Are there any reasons why I &lt;em&gt;wouldn't&lt;/em&gt; just want it on my desk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9148" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T14:07:42.340" Title="Does a flex shaft need to be on a stand?" Tags="|tool-selection|jewelry|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8127" CreationDate="2020-05-09T14:07:42.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a stand is not required but it does give you some more options. A stand that you can clamp the flex shaft tool into can give you hands free access to it, like a mini buffer/grinder. Even without that possibility, it gives the tool a secure place to rest when between uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that it is a relatively heavy tool with a spinning chuck on the end of it and connected a long thick and somewhat springy wire/tube anchored somewhere else. Without the stand it could (will) flop around from momentum and is going to want to find its own resting position that may not be the one you want. With the stand you know where it is when you need it and its a lot less likely to go off in its own direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T14:07:42.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5792" CreationDate="2020-05-09T14:21:54.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did not do anything wrong, except leave a candle burning for hours unattended. Candles melt when burning, and five hours is not a short time in a regular candles life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T14:21:54.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8024" CreationDate="2020-05-09T14:33:03.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not a problem about origami so much as a problem of topology. If you are starting with a sheet of material its topology is genus 0. The shape you want, a sleeve, is genus 1 like a donut. The two are topographically unique and you cannot get from 0 to 1 without connecting the sheet to itself at some point, thus the glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a &lt;em&gt;seamless tube&lt;/em&gt; of fiberglass material, then you could get into the folding process that would give you the sleeve shape you want, but it is impossible with a flat sheet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T14:33:03.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11944" CreationDate="2020-05-10T03:51:00.003" Score="6" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've added too much vinegar to my clay and made it too sticky. Is there any fast way to get back the plasticity other than just slowly drying and then adding water back in? Would an alkaline solution work - a little bicarb in the water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9152" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T11:28:43.160" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T18:22:16.953" Title="Too much vinegar in clay - how to get back plasticity" Tags="|clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8136" CreationDate="2020-05-10T11:46:27.740" Score="4" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the time I bought this snake carving, it was already split and as it was cheap it's fine as it is.  BUT I wonder if trying to patch this up would be worth trying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added some photos which have a UK 1p piece for an idea of scale (approx 21mm - 3/4&quot;)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5L7V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5L7V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the main one I thought about trying to fix as it's more visible.  The front edge will need to be trimmed back if I fill it, but shaping it should (hopefully) be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back is much worse, but also less visible...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HS6Pb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HS6Pb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas, suggestions (even if it is to leave it) would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some extra photos, one inside the large crack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzBNI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzBNI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and another of the base&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFj7Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFj7Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9142" LastEditorUserId="9142" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T10:10:43.567" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T19:55:00.117" Title="How to repair wood carving" Tags="|wood|wood-carving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-10T16:03:35.020" Score="3" ViewCount="4679" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for the best glue to use for placing river rocks on painted stretched canvas?&#xA;Since the rocks have a little weight, I want something that can hold them as the finished product will hang on a wall. I don't want to use a glue gun as I want something VERY strong.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9154" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T15:27:58.777" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T15:27:58.777" Title="Glue river rock to canvas" Tags="|adhesives|canvas|stones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8134" CreationDate="2020-05-10T19:43:20.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really two aspects to gluing the stones.  One is the glue.  The materials (canvas and stone) are different in almost every way and the canvas is not really a rigid surface, so you will get the most reliable, long-term attachment with a glue that remains flexible and adheres to both kinds of surfaces.  E6000, as suggested by Lyssagal, was the first glue that came to my mind, also.  Regular superglue is brittle and not good for attaching to fabric.  There is a variant that contains rubber particles and is also much more viscous that remains more flexible and might work.  Silicone adhesive is another that might work.  Gorilla glue will also work, but as Buzz notes in a comment, use the type that doesn't expand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note though, that if you are gluing to dried paint rather than canvas, some glues may not adhere to it well (the surface texture provides more bonding area, but the glue may not bond well with the paint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second problem is that no matter how well the glue bonds with the paint, the stones will be only as secure as the attachment of the paint to the canvas.  Even if the glue bonds with the paint, the stones may eventually fall off with the paint firmly attached to them.  If you want a reliable bond, you need to glue the stones to the canvas, itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution would be to sketch the design on the bare canvas to identify the stone locations, then glue the stones to the canvas before you paint.  If painting is already completed, I would suggest creating glue areas for the stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Position a stone where it will be glued, then draw an outline on the painted canvas smaller than the stone so it will be completely hidden.  Within that outline, remove as much paint as you can.  How you do that will depend on the type of paint, how thick it is, and how recently it was applied.  After removing as much paint as you can, it might help to scuff the surface within the outline to expose some bare canvas (use a cutout template to protect the paint outside the outline).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are gluing a lot of heavy stones, that kind of weight might cause the canvas to stretch more over time and start to sag.  I would be tempted to glue something rigid to the back of the canvas (like Masonite, thin plywood, or even thick corrugated cardboard), the full size of the stretcher frame opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T19:43:20.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8133" CreationDate="2020-05-10T21:18:03.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The big crack on the back looks like it might be amenable to replicating the adjacent area of the coils.  Make a narrow silicone mold of the coils to the left of the crack.  Then position the mold over the crack  and seal it against the snake.  It looks like you will also need to seal off the crack that extends into the base so resin doesn't leak out there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay the snake with the mold down, and slowly fill the crack with casting resin from the &quot;inside face&quot; of the crack (i.e., the side toward the center of the carving).  Use a syringe to get the resin into the crack, and some tilting, vibrating or tapping, and maybe a thin stick-like applicator or piece of wire to get the resin to flow all the way to the end.  Do this in stages so the resin is free to run through the crack and build up at the far end.  If you add the resin too fast, you may get a trapped air bubble that blocks the resin before it can flow everywhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like there's sort of a dome in the center that's lower than the top of the coils.  Orienting the snake so the mold is down will let the full height of the coils get filled without overflowing onto that dome.  Fill the crack in the dome as a separate step.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That leaves three cracks shown in the pictures -- the head, the dome in the center, and the base under the split in the coils.  Those would be hard to fill with liquid resin because they're curved surfaces and you're working against gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The split in the head is big enough that you may be able to use a hardening filler putty.  The same with the dome.  The type of epoxy putty used for car body repair might be good because it doesn't shrink, bonds to most materials, and can be finely worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three look like they would lend themselves to another type of repair.  Since the split in the head goes all the way through, you would need to seal the bottom of the split during the repair.  The repair method uses baking soda and super glue, which you build up a layer at a time if the crack is too deep to do in one step.  You pack a not-too-thick layer of baking soda into the crack, then saturate it with super glue (use a fine-tipped applicator to get it into the crack without getting it on the rest of the carving).  The super glue reacts almost immediately with the baking soda, turning the mass into a hard plastic.  Do this in a well-ventilated space because it releases a lot of fumes.  If needed, repeat the process to build up the material to the level needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result can be worked with a Dremel tool to restore the matching surface pattern.  BTW, this type of repair can be used on a lot of materials.  It's strong, but a little brittle, so it isn't suitable for repairing things that flex.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that any type of repair will not match the finish of the snake.  You would need to add a matching finish (which will be almost impossible, or maybe paint the repairs gold, Kintsugi-style; not a serious suggestion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having suggested how a repair might be accomplished, I agree with rebusB's comment that repair isn't really a good idea.  Even the best possible repair will be noticeable and would probably cheapen the appearance.  The cracks are part of its character and history.  Filling the cracks will make it a repaired broken item, and potentially less attractive as art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-05-11T19:55:00.117" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T19:55:00.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8144" CreationDate="2020-05-11T15:21:09.767" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkaCl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lkaCl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I want to paint a shelf in White , What should i use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eG6vF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eG6vF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7992" LastEditorUserId="7992" LastEditDate="2021-02-09T19:43:41.033" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T19:43:41.033" Title="I want to paint a shelf in White , and a mask in it like image attatched. Should i use oil based or acrilic?" Tags="|paint|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2020-05-16T19:46:14.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-11T20:12:25.167" Score="3" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to reset the timing on a Singer 7466?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It lost timing the other day while my wife was trying to sew fabric too thick for the machine. After that the needle was coming down at the wrong time and would impact the bottom of the spinning bobbin holder (sorry I don't know what it's called haha) instead of coming down into the groove. And of course it wouldn't thread a stitch either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured the grub screws under the lower bobbin had come loose so I removed the plastic cover, loosened the grub screws under the lower bobbin, and turned that lower bobbin thingy so that the needle came down at the right time and would properly thread a stitch when turned by hand. Then I tightened it back up and put it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the computer didn't like that. It would only make it to the point where it actuates the dog feed, act like it's bound up, then start beeping and flashing. I think it's actuating the dog feed at the wrong time. And it looks like that's actuated based on optical sensors on the top shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, I figured no problem. I could put the lower bobbin thingy back in exactly the same spot it was before and look for lost timing somewhere else. Maybe the timing belt running down to the bottom shaft had skipped a tooth or something. And I figured I could put the bobbin back in exactly the same wrong spot it was before by going off of the marks the needle had scraped into it. All I had to do was take it apart again, loosen those grub screws, turn the wheel with one hand while holding the bobbin with the other, and...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's when I noticed that the entire lower shaft was slipping at the toothed pulley!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ze2sv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ze2sv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chewed up bottom shaft from pulley grub screws&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See how the grub screws on that end have chewed it up? Because of that the whole bottom shaft can rotate almost 180* out of sync. Now, if I had noticed this before I messed with the alignment on the other end then this would be an easy fix: I could just loosen this pulley a little, rotate things back into line, and tighten the screws on this pulley really tight (and maybe braze them so this doesn't happen again haha).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I now have absolutely no reference for putting everything on the lower shaft back in line. I can't use the needle vs bobbin as a reference because I changed that, and I can't put the bobbin back because I need this as a reference. A catch 22.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried emailing Singer but they weren't very helpful. Here's what they said after I explained my situation to them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I do not have any information where you can find technical or parts manuals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Service Manuals are not available, they are designated for the Singer Dealers and their Service Technicians that work on the machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We are not able to provide timing information for your machine. You would need special tools and gauges that are required to repair timing. Settings vary from one machine to the other and in many cases the technician simply knows when everything has been timed just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like they don't want me joining their club. Magic tools, secret knowledge, exclusive access, way too complicated to bother explaining... give me a break!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9155" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T19:00:40.437" Title="Singer 7466 lost timing" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-11T21:23:17.813" Score="1" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that Janome bought Elna some years ago.&#xA;Now, a lot of sewing-machines from Elna and Janome seem to be identical, but they differ in price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;em&gt;&quot;Elna 864 air&quot;&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;&quot;Janome AirThread 2000D Professional&quot;&lt;/em&gt; seem to be the same, at leats it seems to be the same housing.&#xA;But &lt;em&gt;&quot;Elna 864 air&quot;&lt;/em&gt; costs about 200€ more than &lt;em&gt;&quot;Janome AirThread 2000D Professional&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot see any difference.&#xA;Is there any difference that only experts can see?&#xA;Is there any difference in quality and/or lifetime?&#xA;For example, does one use plastic parts while the other uses steel parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9156" LastEditorUserId="9156" LastEditDate="2020-05-12T11:46:39.670" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T04:50:31.680" Title="Are sewing-machines from elna and janome identical?" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2020-09-03T02:09:42.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5792" CreationDate="2020-05-11T23:17:16.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems &lt;strong&gt;the wick was to blame&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the consistency of the wax, the wick needs to be able to 'guide' enough of the wax towards the flame. If too much wax melts before it can reach the flame to properly combust, the wax will just run off. So my guess is the capillarity of the wick was too low.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You mention a smaller candle, about half the size of the one depicted, was burning properly for 24 hours on a smaller wick, so try increasing the diameter slightly, and see if that works. What's important, I think, is not the size necessarily, but the diameter of the candle that's exposed to the flame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T23:17:16.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5792" CreationDate="2020-05-12T02:12:23.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercial candles normally have a higher melting temperature wax on the outer surface. This retains a pool of low temperature wax to be drawn up the wick by capillary action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T02:12:23.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10259" CreationDate="2020-05-13T07:46:32.670" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been making knives as a hobby mostly for myself and friends for some time now. I have been using mostly carbon steels such as UHB20C/1095, O1, 5160. I want to step up my game with more exotic steels such as AEB-L, RWL-34, ELMAX, D2 and N690Co.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to lack of dedicated equipment I found a Steel Heat Treatment company that will help me with quenching, cryo, and tempering. The only problem is that they only offer 'pressurised nitrogen quenching'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you please tell me which of the stainless steels above can be quenched this way?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I could not find any information on Bohler and Uddeholm websites regarding this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9161" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T11:31:17.163" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T01:33:04.527" Title="Which steels can be nitrogen quenched?" Tags="|metal|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2397" CreationDate="2020-05-13T14:07:33.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My computer won't let me see the picture, so this answer might not be helpful. Assuming we're talking about the regular party blowers, the only issue with trying to add a reed to make noise are space and ability. There's not that much space for it to go, only about an inch in the plastic tip, but the tube is very small. Second is actually getting it in there. Putting it in the hole then trying to attach it would be hard since most of them are glued together, and you can't pull of the tip. Unless you can figure out a way to build a reed that's small enough, and get it in there, you might have to get back and buy some other ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-13T19:40:24.690" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T19:40:24.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2020-05-14T17:46:09.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the masking in of the mask design for now and answering original question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of paint is up to you. As fixer1234 noted you are better off using oil based enamel paint as it gives a harder more permanent finish but latex will do if you want to avoid solvents and messy cleanup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would want to sand and prime the board first. Match the primer to the paint you plan to use. Sand after priming, maybe use two coats if the wood is extra thirsty or the old finish still shows through. Same goes for your finish coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add a design, make a stencil or hand paint it after applying the base coat. Be sure if you are using a different color that it is the same type of paint (latex or oil enamel).  Then apply a clear coat to protect it, also of the same type of paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not going to go into paint brands or how to prep and clean brushes etc... that you can find out for yourself with a little basic research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-14T17:46:09.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6342" CreationDate="2020-05-15T03:24:24.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &quot;usage&quot; section of the pen website (my emphasis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Daily cleaning: &lt;em&gt;avoid friction, rubbing and scrubbing&lt;/em&gt; by positioning the item in the dishwasher so that it is not in contact with other items of crockery or cutlery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pens are listed as decorative. You are not going to get a permanent bond that is as strong as the original ceramic finish. I am sure if you were to paint and fire the decorations, and then set them on display where they cannot be rubbed or scraped against things, the paint will hold up fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to get a permanent finish as durable as the original material you would have to reglaze the item using porcelain glaze and a kiln capable of extremely high temperatures, between 2381℉ and 2455℉ (1305℃ and 1346℃).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.soulceramics.com/pages/slow-firing-porcelain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(source)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T03:24:24.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2545" CreationDate="2020-05-15T04:06:28.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using the glass beads without grinding them to a powder first. The spaces between the spheres would then give you the pores you are looking for. Alternately you could mix in a material with a higher melting point to create gaps, being sure you do not fire above what is needed to fuse the lime glass. The risk here is different expansion rates between the materials may cause it to fracture and you may not be able to get all of the resist material out of the finished piece.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soda lime glass has a relatively low melting point (505°C), lower than borosilicate glass. You could tack them together using a torch instead of a annealer/kiln. Then you would have direct visual control over the amount of fusing and/or melt. If that is not possible then target the kiln to just touch their melting point and immediately start to cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T04:06:28.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7904" CreationDate="2020-05-15T04:12:14.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of vacuum pressure required to draw out all the bubbles is likely dependent on the specific weight and chemical composition of the resin you are using. That should be in your resin's spec. sheet or technical data available from the manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could just eyeball it like blacksmith37 says. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T04:12:14.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-15T20:31:11.993" Score="4" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm painting some rocks for a school project, little ones around a garden, and I'm looking for a good sealant/clearcoat. The rocks are pretty porous, but the paint is water-based, so it will easily come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a sealant/clearcoat that will work well. I'm also using the same paint markers on plastic. I sand the plastic, spray paint it white, color it, then clearcoat. I need a clearcoat that won't crack the paint like the one I had was. If there's one that would work on both surfaces, even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.posca.com/en/range/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Posca markers&lt;/a&gt; are water-based paint markers and the clearcoat was Rustoleum Satin Clear Enamel. I took an outlet cover, sanded it, spray painted it white, let it dry for about 20 hours, then painted it with the Poscas, let that dry for about 4 hours, and then used the clearcoat. I put a small fan on to dry, only for the clearcoat (is that maybe what made it crack?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-18T18:54:50.997" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T19:12:46.027" Title="What would be a good sealant to use over Posca on rocks and plastic?" Tags="|paint|sealer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8050" CreationDate="2020-05-16T03:19:28.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try a strong fabric glue (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aleenes.com/aleenes-super-fabric-adhesive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;). Might not be pretty, but it gets the job done — really depends on what you're using the bag for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9172" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T03:19:28.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8009" CreationDate="2020-05-16T15:51:33.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok all you need to do is either get a bag of glue sticks put them in something like a tuna fish can  use a sterno can for heat or however you choose to heat the can of glue sticks cut your strips  dip the ends in the hot glue im sure the more you keep the hot glue as liquid as possible the thinner the material left after dipping let cool or rapidly put in cool water to instantly set the glue if you have any streamers use a heat gun to quickly clean up the excess streamer/ problem solved think of a bobby pin and how the ends are on one to prevent it cutting skin when put in hair in fact get one and pull the end off and you will see why bobby pins look the way they do there is many other ways to do what your asking you can take a pair of plyers and a dremil with a cut off wheel and grind one face of the plyers jaws smooth the other jaws do the same except you leave a raised section that looks like this U a little profileing to  give the shape of the U when viewed from&#xA; The side it looks like this  V    hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9173" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T15:51:33.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8155" CreationDate="2020-05-16T16:37:43.477" Score="4" ViewCount="2868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just trying to understand the concept of a linear meter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that rolls of fabrics can have different widths and depending on the width and need a shorter or longer part of this fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I understanding this correctly that linear meter is just an indication that the width might not be 1 meter and someone who orders this has to take the width of the particular fabric into account when ordering fabric?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9174" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-17T19:17:55.973" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T19:17:55.973" Title="What is a linear meter?" Tags="|fabric|measurements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8154" CreationDate="2020-05-16T17:33:52.167" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't just for fabric, but carpet and all sorts of material on rolls. A linear metre simply means 1 metre length off the roll. It says nothing at all about the width, which is usually more than a metre for fabric, but for some things may be much less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The width should be specified elsewhere in the description, to allow you to calculate how much to buy. You are likely to need to take more into account than the total area, for all but the simplest project with plain fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T17:33:52.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8154" CreationDate="2020-05-16T17:36:16.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A linear meter is just a single meter of distance&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrasting it to a square meter, which is one meter by one meter in two perpendicular directions, or a cubic meter which is one by one by one meter in three perpendicular directions, this is a single meter (39.37&quot; or 100 cm) in one direction (hence 'linear').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance of the other direction(s) doesn't matter, and is not taken into consideration.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Neither is the material measured important for this unit of length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-16T17:41:53.817" LastActivityDate="2020-05-16T17:41:53.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8164" CreationDate="2020-05-17T14:07:40.483" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife comes and asks me whether or not she has enough fabric to complete a project. She gives me a square footage of what we have on hand and then a yardage — &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; square yardage — called for by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hobbylobby.com/DIY-Projects-Videos/Sewing/A-Tent-of-Her-Own/p/13_1194_Tent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epv25.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/epv25.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I double check just in case, but nowhere does it state a width on the page.  So then I think to myself, &quot;there must be some standard width then, that's common or universal to textiles?&quot;, except a Google search later my conjecture is unceremoniously debunked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the author going senile or is there some secret trick to converting one-dimensional units into two that only the textile industry is privy to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-17T19:17:43.990" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T15:49:38.967" Title="How much fabric is needed in this instructional?" Tags="|fabric|measurements|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2020-05-17T16:16:04.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just returned from the JOANN Fabrics and Crafts web site. A search of &quot;fabric&quot; resulted in hundreds of returns, no surprise there. What was a surprise was a &quot;standard&quot; width is not standard. I found material as narrow as 19&quot; and as wide as 72&quot;. This reference is USA only, as I don't know if standards in the countries using the metric system will be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you'd have to do in the case of this project is determine the narrowest bolt that will fit the widest part of your cuts. Obviously if you have a part that is only 40&quot; in one dimension and much longer in the other, you'd be able to cut it from a 48&quot; bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a part is unusually large, say 75 x 70, you'd have to have something at least 70 inches wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tent implies rugged use, unless it's an inside play type tent. You should be able to identify &quot;common&quot; but not standard widths for bolts of your choice of material and do a bit of math to determine the necessary quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that it would have been useful to have a width reference in the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T17:25:29.573" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T17:25:29.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8159" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-05-17T19:28:19.733" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-05-17T19:28:19.733" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T19:28:19.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8160" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-05-17T19:28:19.733" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions regarding dimensions, measuring or converting them, or if your question is explicitly about figuring out an amount or proportion of something." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T16:28:24.537" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T16:28:24.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8161" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-05-17T19:33:31.540" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-05-17T19:33:31.540" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T19:33:31.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8162" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-05-17T19:33:31.540" Score="0" Body="Use this tag when asking about the mechanics, properties, upkeep, or usage of sewing machines." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-18T16:28:44.300" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T16:28:44.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5553" CreationDate="2020-05-17T21:43:13.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not trivial , and from your questions it sounds like you have little experience. For openers you will need a remarkable elastomeric mold in several sections . &#xA;and some way to hold it together against the high pressure of the concrete ; roughly 1400 pounds /square foot of mold surface at the bottom.You will need a vibrator. Probably silica sand with no aggregate or crushed limestone aggregate to get a fairly smooth nearly white product. A one inch slump will give the highest strength but may be difficult to fill the mold, so 2 or 3&quot; slump. Likely some steel framework ( armature) would be advisable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T21:43:13.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2020-05-18T13:53:07.290" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instructions you've posted call for &quot;two 43&quot; x 65&quot; pieces of fabric.&quot; While there are a wide variation of fabric widths available, the standard US widths are (approximately) 45&quot; and 60&quot;. As this piece easily fits into a length of 45&quot; fabric (which is often actually closer to 43&quot;), it stands to reason that the pattern is calling for the more common 45&quot; width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you need the called-for 7 1/4 yards of 45&quot; fabric, in an appropriate material (heavy for outdoor use, any for an indoor play tent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you could also purchase 60&quot; fabric for this project, but you'll have more left over than if you used 45&quot; fabric; patterns that can use either size typically won't call out the width specifically, or will give different yardages for both. Patterns calling for 60&quot; fabric specifically will be explicit about the width, as these patterns generally include pieces that won't fit easily or at all on a 45&quot; wide piece of fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-05-21T15:49:21.920" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T15:49:21.920" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2642" CreationDate="2020-05-18T16:18:12.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative to making swatches but still getting measurements from embroidery you have done, work with pre-cut lengths and count what you have done with a given number of lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will work best if you work a fair block or a lot of smaller blocks, so you can use several lengths and have something to count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will obviously work when you can order (more) after you have started (but it might be a way to calculate whether you had ordered enough or whether the pattern came with enough  tread to allow you to finish it, (while it is still possible to order extra.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you do not want to order before you have done your test, you can do a smaller canvas, as long as you use the same fabric, tread and stitch the result will be valid for the bigger project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the way knot tyers measure lengths for some projects, not undoing but by calculating how much was done with a known length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T16:18:12.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8138" CreationDate="2020-05-18T19:00:40.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fixed it after studying it a bit longer. Here's how:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I noticed that the dog feed makes these four basic motions over and over:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back (away from you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forward (toward you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, my wife clued me in to the fact that the dog feed should not move the fabric while the needle is down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, these two things are probably &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; obvious to everyone on this site, but not to someone like me with very little exposure to sewing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I loosened the relevant parts so I could freely spin the bottom shaft independent of the top shaft. Then armed with the above two pieces of information, I put the needle at top dead center and the dog feed at the threshold between its motions #1 and #2. Then I tightened things down so that the top and bottom shafts were locked together again. I spun the hand wheel to confirm the needle was never down during the entire duration of the dog feed's motion #2. That put the needle in time with the dog feed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I needed to put the spinning bobbin holder thingy (what &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; that called?) in time with the needle. I did that by loosening the grub screws that tie its rotation to the bottom shaft, then I rotated the hand wheel and turned the bobbin holder thing until the eye of the needle was just below the pointy hook bit of the spinning bobbin holder thing on its way up. Then I tightened those grub screws. That put the bobbin holder in time with the needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick test with power applied confirmed the machine was happy enough with my timing. I reassembled everything, got my wife to teach me how to thread things up, then impressed her with a working straight stitch! It sews a straight stitch forward and backward just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine also needed the dog feed to be realigned a little bit because it was impacting the plate, but that's not really relevant to what we're talking about here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I didn't see any timing marks anywhere. Had there been timing marks I would have tried to make sense of and use them. Also, while the gouge marks in my picture would have made it possible to tell exactly where the pulley had been before it slipped (thanks for that idea, &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8138/singer-7466-lost-timing?noredirect=1#comment9970_8138&quot;&gt;@fixer1234&lt;/a&gt;!), that knowledge would not have helped because I had already taken off the timing belt between the top and bottom shafts--doh!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: neither my wife nor I have any idea if the machine is correctly doing any of the fancy stitches, because neither of us really know how what they're supposed to look like lol! All I can say is the machine didn't lock up or catch on fire when I tried a zig zag pattern. All it did was pull the fabric together which might be normal, or maybe the tension was wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9155" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T19:00:40.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1958" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:43:13.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought would be an airbrush. The problem with spray paint is that it can splatter, warp the paper, and is hard to control on small surfaces. An airbrush is nice and small, easy to control, and perfect for something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably don't want to buy an airbrush to use only once, so maybe try a cheaper alternative. There are things called BloPens (not really sure how good they are) that spray a thin layer of ink. If you have Copic markers already, there's the Copic airbrush kit, and as a last resort, some cheap brush markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-05-21T13:57:51.250" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T13:57:51.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8084" CreationDate="2020-05-20T20:56:04.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, but its a pretty bad idea. Acrylic paint is permanent, and has many good qualities. Its highly pigmented, fade resistant, and has various other properties. Poster paint is made for paper, and thats it. Its most likely going to fade and fall off. The poster paint is also designed to be used on large areas, and using it on a small paintbrush isnt going to be easy. Maybe youre looking for something like these: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bit.ly/2LXKinH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://bit.ly/2LXKinH&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T20:56:04.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8056" CreationDate="2020-05-20T21:06:00.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way i could think of getting this would be to hold the spray paint far back from the object. This will usually result in some sort of bumpy texture like the one pictured. The only real way to do this would be a special powder coat, but im assuming you dont want to pay for that. You could also try stippling with a brush and thick paint. My last idea would be getting a grip spray paint/anti slip paint. These are the only ways using spray paint I can think of to get that texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T21:06:00.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-21T01:23:31.643" Score="3" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get into gemstone collecting. Some gemstones have laser inscriptions on the side from the grading lab that gave the gemstone it's color. What level of magnification would I need to read and verify these inscriptions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that I'm working with stones that are about 5mm across. and the laser inscription is written within that, so we're talking about some very very tiny inscriptions . . . would 30x be enough for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9148" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T14:05:00.567" Title="What magnification do I need to read an inscription on a gemstone?" Tags="|beads|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8172" CreationDate="2020-05-21T03:34:05.387" Score="2" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife broke a needle, which apparently is not a conventional one you could easily buy a replacement for.  Not surprisingly, a search online reveals the general consensus would be to simply replace it, which is no help to me.  I'm pretty skeptical about any adhesive being able to hold for very long, but I was wondering if I might be able to just solder and sand it back down?  Any tips or ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T06:20:27.390" Title="Is there any way to salvage a broken needle (discrete form-factor, hard to replace)?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8171" CreationDate="2020-05-21T06:20:27.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most sewing needles are steel of some sort (possibly stainless), which doesn't solder with ordinary electronics or plumbing methods. If you have the kit and experience, it might be possible to braze the steel, but only if the break is in the right place. You need somewhere to build up material, so you can't treat it like superglue. You could of course file away material before and after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a fairly big needle and I was desperate, I'd make a jig to hold it (clamping a cork to the machine should do) and use a very little bit of slow epoxy between the broken faces. Look for one that tells you not to handle the part for several hours, and pay attention to the &quot;full strength is reached in&quot; instruction. You may be able to build up the join on the outside afterwards.  This might be enough to finish the job, but it's unlikely to be a long term fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T06:20:27.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2020-05-21T06:41:29.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be possible to calculate this, but note that it will depend on your eyesight as well, and the contrast you can get (directional lighting may help) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at how many characters there are in a typical inscription (I've seen up to about 30 for synthetic diamonds online;this is lovely to be a worst case), and how much space they fit in, you can work out the character spacing. 30 characters in one row of 5 mm would be 0.17 mm character width including separation. 30x would make this equivalent to about 5 mm which is very large print. Normal text is more like 1-2 mm per character, which you'd achieve with a 10x jeweller's loupe. If you're collecting gemstones you probably want a good loupe anyway, and if this doesn't allow you to read the inscription, it should at least allow you to count the characters and rerun my calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do suggest getting a decent loupe. Mine is only a cheap thing, but at 10x still allows me to resolve features down to that sort of scale with decent eyesight; reading inscriptions of about twice the size I calculated above (on electronic parts) is trivial. I don't have a gemstone, let alone an engraved one, to test for certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also resolve this with a decent camera with a macro lens or extension tubes. If you have access to an SLR a cheap set of extension tubes would allow you to record the inscription. Holding everything steady and focussing can be more of a challenge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2020-05-21T06:47:30.730" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T06:47:30.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2020-05-21T14:05:00.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Likely 10 X would be enough; and practical. Higher magnification is difficult to hand hold steady enough , so certainly at 30 X you are talking about expensive equipment that is mounted on a stand : Typically a zoom binocular going from 10 to 40 X. Also light becomes  critical. You can carry a 10 X loop in your pocket and they are the standard for looking for flaws in diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T14:05:00.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2020-05-21T15:32:26.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The width of fabric is usually measured in inches (in US) and most common widths are 44/45 inches and 60 inches. The width varies by the type of fabric. Quilting cotton is almost always 44/45” wide, apparel fabric is most often between 44” and 60” and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;home decor fabric is usually 54”.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ageberry.com/how-big-is-yard-of-fabric/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the last bit. 54&quot; is 43&quot;+10&quot;+1&quot; for seams. Fits the instructions perfectly: (2x 43&quot;x65&quot;, 2x 10&quot;x65&quot;) There is nothing wrong with the directions... you just need to get 2 x 65&quot; (the longer dimension) = 130&quot; = 3.6 yards of &lt;strong&gt;home decor&lt;/strong&gt; (54&quot; wide) fabric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an indoor play tent, so it is likely that is what they are assuming you would use. That gives you exactly the material needed to make the 4 panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2020-05-21T15:49:38.967" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T15:49:38.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-22T05:53:37.687" Score="6" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm submitting artwork that uses prints from an office printer, and I want to describe that in the list of mediums used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pencil is referred to as &quot;graphite&quot; so, is there a term for using an office printer for fine art?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8659" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T20:15:43.863" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T20:15:43.863" Title="What is the &quot;fine art term&quot; for office printer as medium?" Tags="|terminology|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8176" CreationDate="2020-05-22T09:21:53.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chris H's comment is the answer in a nutshell: &lt;strong&gt;the description should include the medium, and depends on the &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of printing&lt;/strong&gt;. If it's an inkjet print, you can state that; if it's a laser print, the artwork's description could say so. You can also just say 'digital print', combining all digital printing possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Often the type of paper&lt;/strong&gt; - if exceptional or otherwise deemed important for the artwork - &lt;strong&gt;is also included&lt;/strong&gt; in the description (e.g. 'giclée print on 210 gr Hahnemuhle Albrecht Durer paper'). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultimately, though, you describe the print in as much detail as you think is right towards your audience or clients&lt;/strong&gt;. In some instances you could even be emphatically vague about it if you think it accentuates (the concept of) a particular artwork.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The 'office' in 'office printer' doesn't matter for the technology used, as far as it concerns the quality of the prints, but if you think that fact is important for understanding your piece, it's completely fine to include that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also have a look &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artsy.net/collection/prints&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artnet.com/artists/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to see what terminology is used (which also includes vague terms like 'pigment' and 'photo print').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T09:21:53.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3599" CreationDate="2020-05-22T17:11:28.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a welt seam. You can sew seams w/o finishing the edges with an overlocker because they're kept within the seam&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9194" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T17:11:28.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8176" CreationDate="2020-05-22T19:21:03.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;art form&lt;/em&gt; is called &lt;strong&gt;photocopy art&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;copier art&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;xerox art&lt;/strong&gt; or sometimes just &lt;strong&gt;xerography&lt;/strong&gt; with copier art being the most common. It was an experimental art form that originated with artists putting objects on the copy bed and using the copy process to generate the work of art, often manipulating and then recopying multiple times to get the final piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be different from just using a printer to reproduce an existing work of art. This is specifically art works that use the copier/printer as a tool to give the work its unique qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T19:21:03.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-25T13:13:42.230" Score="0" ViewCount="3468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making decorative glass bottles for home use and in that connection I need to attach labels to the glass bottles. The bottles are empty and will not come in contact with liquids at any point. However, I need the labels to stay on the bottle for the long-term. I have tried superglue, but I am worried that it will not last for a long time. Can anybody recommend a glue that binds labels to glass bottles strongly? And can keep up for years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9203" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T22:31:44.177" Title="Which glue should I use to strongly attach a label to glass?" Tags="|adhesives|glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-06-06T09:20:13.537" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-25T15:57:16.117" Score="3" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve made an acrylic painting on a wood slice, but added some detail with a chalk pencil. I normally seal my wood slice art with polycrylic, but I’m concerned about smudging the chalk when I seal. Should I spray a final fixative over the chalk detail and then polycrylic my piece as normal? I’d love any suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9204" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T15:01:30.110" Title="Can I use polycrylic over a fixative?" Tags="|sealer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8183" CreationDate="2020-05-25T17:50:09.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your application, you could get away with a five minute epoxy, carefully mixed and applied to clean surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get a good bond to the surface of the glass and some epoxy will seep into the paper of the label. Even if the label has a treated surface to resist absorption, the epoxy will bond to that smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer using 30 minute epoxy, even though the cure time is longer. According to my limited research, fast cure times generate more heat and weaken the bond, but for your application, the strength will be in the thin film between the two materials. The area covered will be high relative to the strength required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T17:50:09.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6192" CreationDate="2020-05-26T04:54:44.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make your own liquid white mix 1to 1 linseed oil and titanium white. It's essential for the bob ross style of wet on wet painting which must be oil not acrylic just make sure you gesso the canvas before applying liquid white. Hope this helps happy painting &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9207" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T04:54:44.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-26T11:27:50.000" Score="2" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2.8 Pilot Parallel Pen. It simply flows too much ink when writing. I have the 6mm too and it is just fine. Is there a way to reduce ink amount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pilotpen.com.au/products/parallel-pen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pilotpen.com.au/products/parallel-pen/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9208" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-05T10:20:49.707" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T20:25:46.667" Title="How to reduce ink flow of Pilot Parallel Pen?" Tags="|pens|ink|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8184" CreationDate="2020-05-26T19:22:29.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most fixatives are resin-based, dispersed using alcohol. The latter will evaporate quickly, so you're basically looking at a resin/resin bond, but I don't know how different resins work at each other chemically. I can imagine the fixative resin won't play nice with the water-based polycrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from not using fixative and &lt;em&gt;spraying&lt;/em&gt; the polycrylic so you won't smudge the chalk to begin with, &lt;strong&gt;I suggest making a fixative yourself using shellac&lt;/strong&gt; (mix with isopropyl alcohol, 1:8 respectively), and applying it using a spray bottle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shellac bonds well with most coatings, so it should as well with polycrylic (see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?pretty;board=finishing;topic=polyacrylic-over-shellac.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-05-26T19:22:29.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8190" CreationDate="2020-05-27T01:08:56.417" Score="2" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I paint with soft oil pastel on black canvas board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting noses is difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel the nose should be short, but it will increase the distance between the nose and the upper lip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I decrease the distance between nose and upper lip, it will make the nose too long. I tried to fatten the lip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm totally stuck, does anyone have any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z6vkc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z6vkc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T09:21:01.707" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T09:21:01.707" Title="How to fix the nose in this portrait of soft oil pastels?" Tags="|portrait-drawing|oil-pastels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8189" CreationDate="2020-05-27T06:57:51.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me the proportions look right. I think your problem is the contrast in color between the tip of the nose and the skin above the upper lip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your reference picture there is a very soft and gradual blend from nose to upper lip. The lightest color is on the very tip of the nose, where most of the light is reflected.  The parts of the nose that physically point downwards lie in a soft shadow. At the same time the nose casts a soft shadow onto the skin below. Both parts have a very similar color. It's impossible to see exactly where the nose ends and the skin above the lip starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your painting you painted the shadow below the nose, but all parts of the nose are very bright. That creates a sharp contrast and your eye is drawn to that specific point. Your brain cannot stop analyzing this point because of the sharp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you darken the underside of the nose, this contrast dissappears and your eyes are drawn to the brightest spot - which is now the eyes. The human brain fills in the information that the eyes don't see clearly and suddenly the nose has exactly the length the observer likes best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same effect can be observed in the famous &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mona_Lisa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mona Lisa&lt;/a&gt;. All the contours are so soft and blended that each observer sees the image a little different. If you look at her eyes, you cannot see the lips clearly and your brain automatically fills in the missing information with &quot;she's smiling&quot;. If you look at her lips, you suddenly realize that she isn't actually smiling, there's just a soft shadow pointing upwards where the corners of her mouth would be if the was smiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T06:57:51.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8189" CreationDate="2020-05-27T13:29:42.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nose may not be the problem, it may just be inheriting one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the space between the eyes and the mouth. I find it is a common problem in my own drawing to make that distance too long and that looks like the problem here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sometimes helps to look at the composition with slightly unfocused eyes, then proportions that do not seem natural stand out. Doing that with this drawing and it seems the eyes appear a bit high in the face, or relative to them since the forehead looks ok, the jaw too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T13:29:42.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8184" CreationDate="2020-05-27T14:07:53.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it should work, though I recommend testing the combination on another piece to be certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my hobbies involves &quot;painting&quot; resin pieces with chalk pastel; to both protect the surface and provide tooth, and to fix the pieces in place, spray finishes are typically used on the piece. These aren't necessarily sold as &quot;fixative,&quot; but they behave in a very similar manner. Finishing touches are then added using a high-gloss varnish over the final matte spray layer, and there are no issues with doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the materials you're using (ground, spray, and varnish) are slightly different from the ones I use, however, I would recommend a test run before committing to the final piece, but based on my own experiences, I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T14:07:53.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2010" CreationDate="2020-05-27T14:15:16.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;b_jonas is on the right path...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a high quality scan or photo of the discolored work. &lt;strong&gt;Then take that scan and in photo editing software correct out the yellowed tone.&lt;/strong&gt; A decent app will have tools that can make this fairly simple, though you may want to outsource this if you are not familiar with the process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now make a giclee or high quality inkjet print of the work, using the same or similar paper and dimensions of the original.&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, it is a reproduction, but fine art ink jet prints can be nearly indistinguishable from the original. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to &quot;unyellow&quot; aged paper without damaging the work. This way you can still have a piece you can show that is in pristine condition and that will look like the original to all but the closest inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: this is also the reason you should not use hair spray or other cheap alternatives as fixative. Not saying you did here, but it will result in the same yellowing and should be avoided.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T14:15:16.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-27T17:55:38.733" Score="4" ViewCount="692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to oil painting. Please explain the differences between refined linseed, cold-pressed linseed, boiled linseed, double-boiled linseed, etc. I am confused with the variety and would like to know the drying times and how these affect the quality of the painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9212" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-05-27T18:14:42.690" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T07:29:54.680" Title="confused about varieties of linseed oil" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6124" CreationDate="2020-05-28T11:19:22.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found food coloring and acryllic paint to be the cheapest solutions, but certainly not the best. The results remain inconsistent, even with 2 colors of the same package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/6128/6316&quot;&gt;Chris' answer&lt;/a&gt; I used alcohol based food colorings at first, but they are hard to dispense (too liquid, the resin turned cloudy because there was too much liquid compared to the amount of resin) and I usually cannot get alcohol based food colors where I live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I tried sugar based (glucose syrup) food color gels and some of them work, some don't. They have a low water content (less risk of cloudyness) and are easier to dispense. I bought a package of 4 colors: one didn't mix evenly and caused speckles, one mixed very well but turned the resin into goop (it still cured very hard). I haven't tried the other 2 colors yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another downside is that food colors are not meant to last long, so I suspect they will fade rather quickly if exposed to sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my tests acryllic colors always mixed evenly with resin, but depending on the formular of the color, the result won't be translucent. Expecially cheap paints contain chalk-like powders as fillers, which will be wisible in the resin. Some paints changed colors quite drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a recent example of my castings and the same colors I used in the resin applied to paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zaCQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zaCQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From left to right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue food coloring. Turned the resin into goop, but cured correctly. The cloudyness is partially intended because I mixed a lot of tiny air bubbles into the goop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red food coloring (of the same package as 1) didn't mix evenly and caused speckles instead. The color also changed in the resin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dark red acryllic paint. As soon as I mixed it with resin, it turned into strawberry color. When the resin was cured, it looked more like sunflower yellow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purple acryllic paint. Mixed perfectly and didn't change color at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-06-04T05:51:57.717" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T05:51:57.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-30T00:46:06.797" Score="7" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I applied Michael Harding Beeswax to a completed painting. I put my brush directly into the jar and brushed it on. It’s been over a month and it is still sticky, or tacky. The wax did not come with directions, so I thought that was how it was done.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Will it ever dry? Or should I somehow try to remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9223" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-30T08:34:50.297" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T20:30:16.910" Title="Beeswax applied as varnish is still tacky" Tags="|painting|wax|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8199" CreationDate="2020-05-30T08:39:32.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only beeswax product by Michael Harding I was able to find is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.michaelharding.co.uk/product/beeswax-paste-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beeswax paste&lt;/a&gt;, which has a &quot;high oil content&quot; as it is mixed with linseed stand oil, explaining the long drying time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;This product is used to mix oil paints with&lt;/strong&gt;, to increase the volume of the paint (e.g. for impasto's) and give it a matte sheen (similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Encaustic_painting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;encaustic&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For varnishes, you'd need pure (bleached) beeswax&lt;/strong&gt;, and mix it with about 3 parts turpentine after heating it. You can use a little (damar) resin to strengthen the mix (for more information and insights on the process, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/use-of-beeswax-as-a-varnish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And, as a reminder, be sure to clean and let your painting dry sufficiently before applying varnish, as otherwise you'll risk sealing in foreign matter, long drying times, unequal curing, and the painting gathering more dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;strong&gt;your current situation&lt;/strong&gt;: assuming the underlying painting has sufficiently dried, and is relatively flat (little to no impastos), you can gently wipe off the beeswax paste with a piece of cloth (preferably microfiber, as it generally leaves no lint). You could even use a little solvent to more easily get rid of the oily traces. Do not go about this for too long, as you might damage the underlying paint.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Regarding the drying: as I hinted at already, the currently applied beeswax mixture will eventually dry, but the drying time is almost equal to that of pure linseed oil - it can take up to months for it to get touch dry (depending on temperature and humidity, mostly). If you want to take this route, be sure to store your painting in a dust-free environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-05-30T20:30:16.910" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T20:30:16.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-05-31T05:52:42.153" Score="4" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00E8GIOLO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Winsor &amp;amp; Newton fixative&lt;/a&gt; for my dry pastel works. However, when I touch it, the pastel still comes off.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is there any way I can completely fix my pastel paintings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sprayed fixative several times during painting, and few days after each time that I used it, I painted the new layer on it. And after the painting got completed I also sprayed fixative for one last time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each layer I used fixative just once; I was afraid that the colors might get so much darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9225" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditorDisplayName="user9225" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T09:08:46.040" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T09:08:46.040" Title="Pastel fixative" Tags="|drawing|medium-selection|chalk-pastels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-01T11:23:54.003" Score="3" ViewCount="3576" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically my metal sheets are new and I need them to be with that rust effect rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Halb7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Halb7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7973" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T20:20:47.137" Title="How can I force metal sheet to rust rapidly?" Tags="|metal|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8203" CreationDate="2020-06-01T13:12:17.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The least expensive method to rust a sheet of metal would be a light spray of salt water. Even ordinary water will rust steel if it's not particularly rust resistant. I've used 4130 chromoly steel which rusts overnight if left with moisture on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diluted chlorine bleach will cause rapid corrosion in aluminum, nearly instantaneous, but I'm not sure if the same effect will happen with steel. Chlorine is corrosive to steel, it's the time involved that I'm unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T13:12:17.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8203" CreationDate="2020-06-01T16:39:26.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The corrugated certainly looks like galvanized steel where some galvanized has corroded. You need to remove the remaining zinc . Dissolving it with hydrochloridic / muriatic acid would be fast , 10% should be strong enough.Salt water, vinegar, citric acid etc, would do it but slower. Once the zinc is gone it should rust pretty fast , a little dilute salt or acidic water spray will speed it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T16:39:26.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8201" CreationDate="2020-06-03T01:22:33.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't do any work with pastels, but my friend does. I asked her what a good one would be, and she said that the Sennelier fixative works pretty well. It's a final fixative, and it gives a matte finish as well. It works best if you use a few thin coats, drying in between. It's about $16, which is the cheapest one, but it's also really good. Good luck with your projects!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2021-08-08T19:41:20.623" LastActivityDate="2021-08-08T19:41:20.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3380" CreationDate="2020-06-03T01:33:49.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @magerber. There are a couple reasons why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: It's soft. Having it in such a small diameter would most likely break it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2:You want a wider tip for coloring areas like that. Have you ever tried doing any piece of art with just a mechanical pencil? It takes forever, and the shading is difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: If you made a piece that was wide enough, the pencil would have to be wide too. It would almost be as big as a clutch pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: Changing colors. Think about how many times you change colors when you do a piece of art. Taking out a color, then putting another in, then getting the right length would take a lot of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5: Grip. Grip is how well a mechanical or clutch pencil can hold the graphite under pressure without it sliding back in. For a lot of mechanical pencils, the lead will break, and for clutch pencils, it will let it slide back in so that you don't damage the graphite. For pastel, the pencil wouldn't be able to grip it and hold it, and the end inside would get all chewed up and slide back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So these are the reasons I could think of, but I'm sure that soon, someone will overcome all of these obstacles and make something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-06-03T13:42:45.390" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T13:42:45.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-03T04:56:05.067" Score="2" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a fountain pen suck up the ink into its reservoir if I simply dip its nib into the ink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9233" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-24T08:05:05.170" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T08:05:05.170" Title="Replenish the ink of a fountain pen by dipping" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8209" CreationDate="2020-06-03T06:12:27.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fountain pen has any kind of (suction) pump, then you will need to use the said pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The capillary effects alone will not have the power to fight the weight of the ink itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal hack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a fountain pen with one-time-use cartridges. It came originally with a very long one (compared with what is usual in shops). Because I did not want to purchase so much plastic (the small one time use cartridges), I decided to use the original one. To refill it I use a syringe (dedicated specifically to this purpose) to transfer ink from the ink bottle to the cartridge. I use it in this way for more than 20 years without any issue. The original cartridge, even though it was designed to be one-time-use, still fits properly, without leakage, to the pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-06-03T08:15:01.710" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T08:15:01.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8203" CreationDate="2020-06-03T19:00:23.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mixture of hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, and salt will cause steel to rust at a fast pace. Usually within minutes. I've put to mixture into spray bottles and it has given rusty results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16oz Hydrogen Peroxide&#xA;2oz White Vinegar&#xA;1/2 tbsp of salt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9237" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T19:00:23.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-04T17:53:28.250" Score="2" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;With my son I made a wooden shield, glued canvas over it and then he painted the canvas with his sigil. We used poster paint (children's paint) because I remembered I could not completely wash it out of clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there seems to be wiggle room between 'not coming out in the laundry' and 'being fixated to a DIY project'. The paint does come off when wet, not completely, but enough to stain seats and clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I use regular wood glue to fixate the paint? Just applying a thin layer? &#xA;My other option would be varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main point is that the shield will be in use, so whatever I apply cannot be brittle. It should stay in place when the shield is hit by a wooden sword (obviously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9180" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-04T23:23:16.917" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T14:41:42.443" Title="Can I use wood glue to fixate poster paint?" Tags="|adhesives|paint|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8183" CreationDate="2020-06-04T22:31:44.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My method doesn’t involve glue at all. I use packing tape: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print or hand-write your label and place it face down onto the sticky side of a pristinely clean strip of packing tape. To make accurate positioning of the label much easier, secure the packing tape sticky-side-up onto a hard surface such as a kitchen counter, by making the strip about an inch longer than needed, and turning about 1/2 inch at each end under and pressing it against the counter. Once the label is positioned, trim the tape to size, and position the label on the very well cleaned glass. Use a spoon or your thumbnail to work out any air bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voila, much easier than glue with no cleanup, and for your needs which don’t involve contact with water, the labels will stay put for a long time, and withstand surface cleaning, even with a damp cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T22:31:44.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8212" CreationDate="2020-06-05T06:11:21.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way (never tried, I have no idea from where to buy xylene) is to dilute silicone with xylene, then &quot;paint&quot; the shield / canvas with the silicone solution. Let it cure, voila. The silicone will also act as a glue between the wood and the canvas as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to use these sprays which make clothes water-proof. I found out about them in an &lt;a href=&quot;https://lifehacks.stackexchange.com/a/22559/26845&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to an older question of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T06:11:21.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8209" CreationDate="2020-06-06T09:01:13.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fountain pens won't automatically suck up ink when you dip the nib. You'll need a converter (cartridge) for your fountain pen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the converter, it depends on what kind of converter you get: some have pressing pumps to suck up the ink, while some are twisting converters. By dipping the fountain pen nib into the ink bottle, you'll be able to suck in the ink by pressing on/twisting the converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/Videos/Fountain-Pen-Videos/vc/22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of guides for fountain pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-06T10:03:02.980" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T10:03:02.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3380" CreationDate="2020-06-06T09:05:42.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are mechanic pencils with coloured lead! Pilot has them (Pilot ENO Color Mechanical Pencil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2020-06-14T14:55:13.690" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T14:55:13.690" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3313" CreationDate="2020-06-06T09:26:45.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For labels that should not come off when the bottle gets wet, hot glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In factories they use big(ish) machines to spray the glue on the bottles, but you can use a hand held hot glue gun as well.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Best on smaller labels, to allow you to spread the glue and attach the label before the glue cools too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, keep the bottle on a reasonably warm temperature if you can, to stretch the working time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T09:26:45.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8212" CreationDate="2020-06-06T14:41:42.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a quick fix use &lt;strong&gt;acrylic medium&lt;/strong&gt; which is simply clear acrylic binder; acrylic paint without the pigment. It is soluble in water, easy to thin and work with and clean up after, and it dries waterproof. Available in any art store or online. You can get it in matte or glossy or in between. That should bind the poster paint no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for the next shield you paint, start with acrylic paints. There are affordable grades equivalent to poster or tempra paint, but they start off waterproof (when dry). And you can get higher quality colors, different thickness mediums to add texture, better range of colors, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember to rinse out your brushes as you use them, the acrylic will dry to waterproof in the bristles too and destroy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh... and you could use wood glue maybe thinned a bit, but it would be a poor solution. Likely to dry too slowly and the colors will bleed. Also may not have as nice of a finish, may remain sticky. Finally it will likely lead to discoloration over time. Its possible it would still be water soluble too so don't use wood glue unless there is absolutely no alternative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T14:41:42.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-07T15:48:32.717" Score="1" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought the Wilder Gown pattern from the Friday Pattern Company and the layout instructions seem to suggest you don't fold the fabric before cutting the pieces, instead keeping the fabric open/flat (see picture). Am I interpreting this correctly?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've only ever folded fabric wrong sides together before cutting so haven't seen this before. Wouldn't folding the fabric ensure accuracy between matching pieces? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to sewing so any help would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgY1k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgY1k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9249" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T08:35:18.943" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T14:14:07.830" Title="Dressmaking and pattern layout: folded vs open fabric?" Tags="|fabric|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8221" CreationDate="2020-06-08T05:59:19.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials like denim (e.g. jeans) might be quite suitable for folding before cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, materials like silk will slide easily and the result will be anything but symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on folding before cutting, then sew the margins together (manually, with big &quot;steps&quot;), along the intended cut. That will minimize the sliding of the two halves, ans therefore maximize the symmetry of the piece after cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T05:59:19.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8221" CreationDate="2020-06-08T06:12:15.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part B is the only one clearly expected to be cut from folded fabric. The rest is arranged in a way that reduces waste as much as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I hope seam allowance is included in the pattern&lt;/strong&gt;, otherwise there's no way you can cut it as drawn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily seperate the pattern into 2 parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep parts B &amp;amp; C together in one piece and fold (or cut) the pattern in half along the line dividing part B into a light and a dark half. Then fold the fabric in half, align the pattern to the fold and cut both parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut all of the remaining parts from unfolded fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could theoretically cut parts A from folded fabric, but only if you arranged the right part &lt;strong&gt;above&lt;/strong&gt; the left part (mirror them horizontally). This probably won't fit on the remaining fabric, which might be why they're arranged side by side (to reduce waste). If you mirror the parts vertically (side by side), you'd have the wrong side of one piece facing out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-06-08T12:15:00.713" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T12:15:00.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8221" CreationDate="2020-06-08T14:14:07.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When given pieces that are too wide for the folded fabric (see piece E in your diagram), pattern cutting layouts will show cutting on a single thickness of fabric, rather than a folded piece. &lt;strong&gt;This is very common when the pieces won't fit the standard width of fabric&lt;/strong&gt; in the correct orientation without unfolding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Precise matching&quot; of pieces isn't particularly critical in most patterns; the size of the pieces is sufficient to compensate for any small differences in the cut pieces. It's also more likely to have minimal differences in the two pieces when they're cut separately, as fabric can shift or be wrinkled on the lower layer, leading to a misshapen piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T14:14:07.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8226" CreationDate="2020-06-08T23:17:45.833" Score="4" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently come across a nice library of antique Irish crochet patterns at a site called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;APL&lt;/a&gt;. I'm having some trouble understanding their language (some of it seems to be different from what we use nowadays).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/pub/PDF/6-AK003Crawford.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; pattern, near the start of the leaf section it says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] a treble in each of 11 trebles, 3 under 3 chain, chain 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found any modern resources that would explain what &quot;3 under 3 chain&quot; could mean. This &quot;N  under X chain&quot; pattern repeats later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would that be? Is there a modern equivalent of that stitch under modern terminology?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hypotheses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It means &quot;yarn under thrice and chain 3&quot;, but that would lead to an accumulation of loops across the pattern (it's used multiple times and it never uses such loops)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It means &quot;skip three stitches on the level below the current one&quot;, but that has been previously labelled as &quot;miss 3&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It means &quot;three trebles, but with yarn under&quot;, but that would ignore the &quot;chain&quot; part of the instruction and not really make any difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, here's what you get by following the pattern up until that point (with thicker yarn). &quot;A treble in each of 11 trebles&quot; is the last step executed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R5yxY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R5yxY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One row of 15 treble stitches under another with 11.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9254" LastEditorUserId="9254" LastEditDate="2020-06-09T00:32:17.807" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T00:46:37.517" Title="Old crochet terminology: &quot;3 under 3 chain&quot;" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8225" CreationDate="2020-06-09T00:46:37.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After trying to work it our for a while, I gave up and redid the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new configuration, I've come to the conclusion it means &quot;3 treble on the space left between the first 2 stitches (which are a 3-chain), then chain 6&quot;. This and the following 2 instructions yield this result, which looks like the top of the leaves pictured in the guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WULI2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WULI2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Semi-completed pattern&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9254" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T00:46:37.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-09T08:52:52.047" Score="6" ViewCount="3106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve collected lots of glass and stones from the beach near me and would like to make jewelry with it. I’d like to be able to cut the glass into shape, drill small holes into it, and also be able to polish it so it’s smooth and see-through. Can anyone help? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9257" LastEditorUserId="9158" LastEditDate="2020-06-10T19:41:48.593" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T18:31:13.563" Title="How do I smooth, cut, and drill holes in glass found on the beach?" Tags="|glass|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8209" CreationDate="2020-06-09T14:58:23.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is no. Since there is nothing that would suck up the ink, or something that would pull the ink in (like suction) the ink would not fill up the pen. Thats how gravity works btw. There are pens that have disposable cartridges, some have built in refill pistons, an some can use a converter, and some are vacuum (suction). The disposable cartridges are pretty straight forward. Unscrew the pen, pull out the old cartridge, click the new one in. There you go. Pistons and vacuums, and squeeze are similar because they all use negative pressure. For the piston, put the nib in a bottle of ink, then twist the back end. The piston inside will move up the barrel, and pull the ink in. Vacuum are similar. Pull the back, then dip in ink, and let if fill. Squeeze work by squeezing the ink chamber which makes the inside smaller, then hold it in ink, then release pressure on the chamber, and it sucks in the ink. There are many converters that work on different pens that perform all the actions listed above, so mess around a little and find what you like the most. Also, if there isnt a cartridge for the color you want, you can always refill a used cartridge with a syringe and use that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T18:55:00.827" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T18:55:00.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2380" CreationDate="2020-06-09T15:18:30.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you said you don't want gel pens, but I looked at various white ink pens for about 20 minutes, and there are literally no ballpoint pens with white ink. Ballpoint pens are also bad for writing. They require a lot of pressure, and the ink can be weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gel pens are really good because they have smooth lines, and the ink is opaque, so it's nice and bright on the paper. I'm an artist, so white is a very important color. White gel pens are good to have because they are really easy to control and can do small details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend Sakura Gelly Roll or Uni-Ball Signo White Gel Pens. I know that you said you used a gel pen before, and it didn't work well, but that pen might have been defective, damaged, or old. Try using some again to see what works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid using felt tip pens or paint pens when writing because they get used up fast and don't produce the cleanest lines. As for the black paper, lots of art and craft stores sell it, and you might also find a black paper notebook. Good luck with your pens!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="9158" LastEditDate="2020-06-12T13:50:20.337" LastActivityDate="2020-06-12T13:50:20.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8227" CreationDate="2020-06-09T21:44:46.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For drilling glass, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.toolstation.com/tile-glass-drill-bit-set/p30133#full-desc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;drill bits for tiles&lt;/a&gt; (the spear-point type) work. Work wet and go slowly. I've seen them down to 3mm. You need to hold the glass steady, but a cordless drill will be adequate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a smooth (as opposed to facetted) piece, jewellers rouge on a cloth will polish glass, worked by hand, though it might take a while. For a little reshaping, such as to remove a sharp edge, you can use wet/dry paper (silicon carbide paper) or emory cloth. Start coarse and work down to a fine grade before polishing. I'm much more familiar with machine polishing, but that's good for flat surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need to cut it, small cuts can be made with a dremel or similar, with a carbide cutoff wheel. There are also coarse hand saws for tiles that cut glass. They're like a file made of thick wire (coated in abrasive) in a frame, rather than what you'd it think of as a saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety glasses are a good idea when cutting or drilling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T21:44:46.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8227" CreationDate="2020-06-10T07:23:39.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need a tool to work the glass. I suggest a dremel or similar rotary tool for that, but there are vast differences in quality:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get a dremel / rotary tool including a collection of bits and a tool box for around 40 €/$. Most of these advertise insane rpm values, but in reality what you want is &lt;strong&gt;motor power, not motor speed&lt;/strong&gt; (I never used more than half the available speed of my tool). They notably slow down as soon as your bit touches the object because the motor doesn't have the power to withstand the slightest resistance, forcing you to work in very small increments. These cheap tools are okay for occasional hobby crafters, but if you plan on working with them regularily, you'll be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; dissappointed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many people already have such a tool and never use it. Maybe you can loan one from your neighbor / friend / family for a while.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this is more than just a one-time project you should consider getting a more expensive, high quality tool. These have a strong motor that allows you to work fast and evenly and most include nice features like a quick and secure way to change bits or an ergonomical handle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you need the bits to use with your tool. I'll refer you to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8231/6316&quot;&gt;Chris' answer&lt;/a&gt; for that with the additional advice to &lt;em&gt;totally forget each and every&lt;/em&gt; cheap bit set that is included in a cheap rotary tool. In my experience they are not properly centered, which makes them bump into the object instead of running smothly over it, causing damage or rough surfaces where you wanted to smoth them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For shaping the glass and drilling holes you could ask your dentist for old drill bits they no longer use. They won't be perfect (after all your dentist sorted them out for a reason), but it's a cheap way to get good diamond bits for drilling small holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you absolutely need protective equipment, &lt;strong&gt;at least safety glasses and a fine dust mask&lt;/strong&gt;! The fine dust you produce while working the glass is not as smooth as it feels. It's a pile of microscopic glass shards that can irritate your eyes and lungs. Even worse! Since glass isn't organic, your body cannot decompose it and it stays in your lungs forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to beadforever for the addition that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diamond drill bits should be used underwater to prolong their life and reduce dust from the glass getting into your lungs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly you need patience, &lt;em&gt;lots of it&lt;/em&gt;. Polishing glass to a mirror finish takes several passes with decreasing grain size and finishing with polishing paste. To me personally it sounds not worth the efford for an oddly shaped piece of a bottle. Many people like the frosted finish of beach glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T07:20:19.723" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T07:20:19.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8209" CreationDate="2020-06-12T21:06:47.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a fountain pen suck up the ink into its reservoir if I simply dip its nib into the ink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of fountain pen you're using. Simply putting the pen nib into ink will not fill a pen unless it's a rare &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vintagepens.com/filling_instructions_capillary.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;capillary filler&lt;/a&gt;, like the Waterman X-Pen or Parker 61. Most fountain pens require some mechanical means of sucking up the ink; typically a squeeze mechanism of some kind which can exchange air for liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pen is a cartridge filler, you'd need to swap in a same-sized/shaped &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/blog/how-to-use-a-fountain-pen-converter-2/pt/479&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;converter&lt;/a&gt; for the cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pen has a built-in filling system, it needs to not have any leaks to work (may be an issue with vintage pens where rubber guts may have rottened or hardened, or plastic fillers that may have cracked with time). General advice: don't try to fill an antique/vintage pen until you know it's in operational condition: you can easily break Waterman lever boxes by forcing the lever against a petrified rock-hard rotten rubber sac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern cartridge-fill pens are tip-fill, where you only need to partially submerge the nib in ink to fill, but most vintage pens are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; (Sheaffer snorkels, which have retractable ink-intake tubes, aside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older vintage fountain pens that use rubber sacs (e.g., a Waterman 52 or 5; or a glass-nibbed Spors) actually require that the lower edge of the &lt;strong&gt;section&lt;/strong&gt; contacts the ink, so &lt;em&gt;the entire nib&lt;/em&gt; needs to be submerged. The section is the hollow tube into which the nib and feed are friction fit and that the barrel screws on to. It's where you typically grip the pen. This is why some ink bottles (like the Shaeffer Skrip or Montblanc) have a smaller well you can fill by tipping the bottle, so that you can get enough depth to fill when the ink level is low in the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, rubber sac filling pens require time for the rubber to &amp;quot;recover&amp;quot;, so after you apply/release pressure, you need to wait 10 seconds or so for the pen to fully fill. With some piston and button fill systems (e.g., Parker Vacumatic), you have to press and release multiple times until the pen is full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your vintage pen is pre-1920s (say an 1890s ink pencil stylograph, or a 1910s safety pen) it's unlikely it has a built-in fill system, and is probably an eyedropper filler, where you have to unscrew a cap/end and use an eyedropper to fill the barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vintagepens.com/filling_instructions_vintage_pens.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Filling instructions on vintagepens.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vintagepens.com/pen_profiles.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pen profiles on vintagepens.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T18:32:37.957" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T18:32:37.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-13T15:59:57.210" Score="7" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm developing a board game that requires 92 balls that are 1&quot; diameter each. The cheapest balls I've found this size are wood. (I'm skipping Durofoam / Styrofoam because I want them to have some weight.) Since I'd like to make 10 copies of the game to start with, I'll need 920 colored balls that are 1&quot; each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leads me to the idea of painting these wooden balls. I'd like them to be 2 bright colors, like green for one player and blue for the other. Is there an easy process for painting a 1&quot; ball? And do you have any ideas for painting nearly 1000 of them? (Or do you know of an arts-and-crafts source I could buy these from?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8757" LastEditorUserId="8757" LastEditDate="2020-06-14T12:30:21.537" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T14:54:26.840" Title="How can I paint 1000 wooden balls that are 1&quot; each?" Tags="|painting|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8235" CreationDate="2020-06-13T20:53:35.960" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Painting by immersion would be fairly easy, but drying would be harder.  Industrially I suspect they'd be kept moving with warm air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They'd be too expensive for this quantity, and come in sets of too many colours, but some wooden balls are available &lt;em&gt;dyed&lt;/em&gt;.  If the ones you can get are pale wood, this may be an option, and drying would be more even than with paint.  You'd soak them a bit then dry them in a tray shaking frequently (or rearranging frequently if you use the support I suggest for spraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They could be sprayed.  It would be worth getting a proper sprayer and I'm more familiar with rattle-cans, but the key common factor is that however you spray you do lots of light coats drying in between. You'd rotate between coats so coverage was even. Reusable plastic egg trays are probably the best support, unless you get through huge amounts of eggs packed in plastic trays.  This would take quite a lot of elapsed time, but not much active time - you'd spray a coat in a few minutes even over hundred of balls, then do something else while it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But while looking online I found that 2&amp;nbsp;cm painted balls are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.somethingspecialwholesale.co.uk/decorative/wooden-balls?sort_bef_combine=title%20DESC&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;available wholesale&lt;/a&gt;.  Given your quantities you may be able to find them ready-made after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T20:53:35.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3364" CreationDate="2020-06-14T13:52:38.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vH6nT8H0wYA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a very simple method that I came across.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This may not work on all spraypaint nozzles because you need one that has a spray tip that can have a bendy straw or flexible tube slid snugly over the place where the spray comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you take the jar you want to decant the paint into and tape up the opening, enough to both stop the gas escaping and contain the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you make a small cut just big enough for the straw or flexible tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slide the straw/tube over the nozzle spray tip (shake your can first) and feed it into the hole in the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place both upright on a table or flat surface and spray until you have decanted enough paint for your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the tape, and put the lid on the jar immediately. Spray paint is highly volatile so you need to keep it airtight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9271" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-23T11:56:22.270" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T11:56:22.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3364" CreationDate="2020-06-15T14:12:52.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but be careful. As you probably know, spray paint dries very fast, so spraying it into a container could result in it drying. Also, a lot of paints can eat through plastic. Like Rustoleum enamel, it ate through a cup I sprayed it into. Using something like glass would be better. Also, there are some different caps you could try. I know that MTN Paints make a variety of caps, and other companies do to. You could try replacing the cap with a smaller one and see how that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="9158" LastEditDate="2020-06-19T16:38:11.040" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T16:38:11.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8235" CreationDate="2020-06-15T14:50:08.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I have a couple of ideas. But these are just ideas, I don't know how well they will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: Wood dye. Like @Chris H said, but maybe you try it yourself. Get some wood dye, put it in a small bowl, and soak the balls in it, then let them dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Spray painting. This is a rough idea, but it might work. Take a block of foam, or a sheet, this will be piece A, and lightly press the balls into it so they loosely fit. Spray, then let dry. Then, take another piece (piece b) and press onto the top. Now, together, flip them over, so piece A is on the top, and B is on the bottom. Now pull off A. Now the un-painted side of the balls are up. Spray them, let dry. Clear coat if you want, then flip again and clear coat the other side. Repeat this process. The use of the foam will make it so that you don't have to individually flip each ball one at a time, and it also holds them nicely so that they don't get weird marks from resting on a drying rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the two simplest ideas I have that would be the most time efficient. If you go to a certain online ordering site that has the same name as a large rain forest, you can find a pack of 1000 uncolored wooden balls for about $140.00. One thing to keep in mind it that the dye might not be able to soak through a protective coating, and paint might not stick, so try to look for something that's unfinished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-06-15T14:54:26.840" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T14:54:26.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-15T17:18:59.580" Score="1" ViewCount="999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot get a hold of clear gesso. It is not available for delivery from Amazon to my country and, given the pandemic, all art supply stores are still closed. However, I found several sites that can deliver white gesso.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If I dilute white gesso with water, will that make it translucent enough to prep a paint-by-numbers style canvas without covering the numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9275" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T08:39:52.603" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T08:39:52.603" Title="Can white gesso be diluted to make it translucent?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-15T21:04:31.723" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I saw the following drawing on Etsy and I was wondering if I could do a similar one in acrylic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KY1bSm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KY1bSm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sideview &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6hQxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6hQxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any idea/tips how the background was done? At first I thought it was achieved with a spatula. But now I don't believe that anymore - there are too many color accents which can't come from a spatula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I would love to hear your ideas or tips on how I could repaint this drawing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My &lt;strong&gt;specific questions&lt;/strong&gt; are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would you create the background (technique)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would you texture the canvas before (structure paste) to give it a bit more depth, or would that be too much?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would you do the vertical &quot;lines/sprinklers&quot;? I could imagine that the paint is too thick to press it directly from the tube onto the picture like this and therefore I have to thin the paint down before making those stripes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would you do something different / is there something in the picture that bothers you?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/208710550/blue-orange-original-abstract-painting?show_sold_out_detail=1&amp;amp;ref=nla_listing_details&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to the images&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be very happy about suggestions and tips! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9278" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T07:18:00.327" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T15:07:02.210" Title="Which technique was used to paint the picture?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-06-19T05:35:31.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8243" CreationDate="2020-06-16T06:21:21.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture is a little complicated to know precisely but this is my approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.1. The paint needs to be &quot;sticky&quot; do not confuse with heaviness or&#xA;    density, to achieve this, You could use a 1 volume of &quot;&lt;strong&gt;pyroxylin&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; by&#xA;    1 1/2 volumes of acrylic ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.2. Use some grain for texture, &quot;&lt;strong&gt;+1 load&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; every coat or color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.3. Apply coat with creased surface, paper, fabric, plastic &lt;a href=&quot;https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.freecreatives.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F04%2FCreased-White-Paper-Textures.jpg&amp;amp;f=1&amp;amp;nofb=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EXAMPLES&lt;/a&gt;, first layer light/bright color, upper coat either contrast color or dark value of the first coat color selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.4. After every 2 coats have dried use sandpaper to make visible some crisp details taking advantage of the grain texture load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.5. Get Beauty details with sponge and spatula for the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the last part which would be the vertical lines I suggest the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a sponge with pure or heavy Ink and squeeze to drip over the canvas, this would need to be a fast motion or path in order to achieve some sort of spreadness from the dripping ink. Or place a string of ink on one face of a jargon fold and squeeze.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I would place some rotography made with MaskingTape and remove after canvas is at the desired style.Check some depth explorations:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.etsystatic.com/21140472/d/il/8bd645/2347901280/il_340x270.2347901280_drgw.jpg?version=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;depth : physical and abstract&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.etsystatic.com/6723187/r/il/c89383/374054574/il_794xN.374054574_rrne.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;layered compositions&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.pinimg.com/564x/0f/d5/48/0fd5489f1205b8a12ae309d6e14bfbbf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shapes/patterns, meanings, minimalism &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9283" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T06:21:21.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8242" CreationDate="2020-06-16T18:11:38.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A single layer of white gesso will likely show the underdrawing through. I thin my gesso for easier application and usually do three or more coats to get a good solid base. However, you would be using less gesso to keep it translucent, so the canvas may get less of the protection the gesso provides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use acrylic medium to seal the canvas, essentially it would be like using gesso binder without the pigment. Go with matte medium since gloss will change the look of the canvas and top layers may not adhere as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use rabbit skin glue as a base coat, it is clear and will seal the canvas. Traditionally this would be the first covering on the canvas before applying gesso or under painting. It comes as dry granules that you mix with water and cook a little before applying, so its a little more complicated but it will do the best job at providing an archival clear protective coat to the canvas for what ever you want to put over it, oils or acrylics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T18:11:38.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8201" CreationDate="2020-06-16T18:43:35.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No fixative will make pastels totally sealed and irremovable, at least not without totally changing the look of the pastels (typically darkening and dulling them). So it is a balance between protection and look. Fixing will make the under layers workable, strong enough to take layers above without too much mixing, but a pastel drawing will always be fragile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T18:43:35.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8251" CreationDate="2020-06-16T19:10:27.767" Score="5" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graphite powder for use by artists costs significantly more than graphite powder used as a dry lubricant. Is the latter usable for artistic purposes? Is it hazardous in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9286" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T10:10:35.213" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T10:10:35.213" Title="Can an artist use graphite powder made for dry lubricant?" Tags="|drawing|graphite|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2020-06-16T20:27:11.570" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the base of this answer would be what @jackwise said. There is no exact opposite of any kind of art to another. I would say that some styles of art that oppose hyperrealism would be modern art, contemporary art, modernism, and abstract expressionism. The only reason I say these things is because hyperrealism is trying to re-create a picture as closely as possible. In the ones I listed (and many others), there isnt a specific subject that its supposed to resemble. They are more of an expression or idea that the artist is showing/sharing. So hyperrealism is realistic whereas the others are expressions or ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T20:27:11.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8253" CreationDate="2020-06-16T20:51:03.410" Score="0" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2m of fabric, and I want to make a cotton nightie with it. I want to create drawstrng shoulders and also a front drawstring that ties losely. I managed to find an image similar to what I would like to create (the top bit):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/audZv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/audZv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drawstring shoulder dress&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am wondering is whether I can just make the pattern from two large rectangles and then the shape just comes from the drawstrings, or are there other things I need to account for? I have a similar shape to the girl in the image, about size 10, tall, slender. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on making the drawstring? Do I make a casing and then sew on top of the shoulder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9289" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-06-16T23:30:22.437" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T14:07:19.673" Title="How to recreate drawstring effect on this dress on homemade nightie pattern" Tags="|sewing|fabric|clothing|pattern-drafting|seams|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8247" CreationDate="2020-06-16T22:58:53.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use it if you're careful about the material and the purpose.  Graphite, itself, can be purchased virtually pure.  It's available in different particle sizes, but the typical graphite powder used for purposes like lubrication is also fine for art purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to distinguish between pure graphite and graphite-based materials.  Graphite-based materials sold for one purpose may not work well for a different purpose because the material is a mix of graphite and other stuff designed to optimize the mixture for a specific purpose.  So, for example, dry graphite lubricant powder may have other materials in it that will interfere with the properties you want to use it for.  Look for material described as pure graphite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product description will often include uses the powder is suitable for based on its particle size and purity.  For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B076H7QVHF&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this product from Amazon&lt;/a&gt; describes that it is suitable as a lubricant and a pigment for resins, so I would expect it to be generally fine for other art purposes (although you may need to mix it with other ingredients for some purposes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as safety, graphite powder in a particle size used for art is extremely fine stuff that easily gets suspended in the air.  You don't want to breathe the dust because it can be harmful to your lungs (and what gets into the air will eventually settle on surfaces and make a mess).  You should at least wear a good dust mask or N95 mask, and it wouldn't hurt to set up a HEPA filter, or vacuum cleaner with a HEPA bag, to draw in and filter the air in the area where you work with the loose powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T22:58:53.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8047" CreationDate="2020-06-17T05:31:45.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be caused by a faulty capacitor in the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See glossary item on this website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Electrical sewing machines have a component inside the motor of the machine called a capacitor.  This helps eliminate electrical noise from the motor and prevents the electrical noise from going back into your homes electrical grid.  When capacitors age they can split open and leak electrolytical fluid, which renders them faulty.  Once this happens, the motor of the machine will at times start running by itself.  The best course of action for when this happens is to take it in to get it looked at by a qualified sewing machine technician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from: &lt;a href=&quot;https://sewingmachinecentre.nz/pages/glossary#Running-On&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://sewingmachinecentre.nz/pages/glossary#Running-On&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9292" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T05:31:45.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8250" CreationDate="2020-06-17T14:07:19.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things to be considered here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comfort&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the drawstrings will be comfortable when lying down, either on your back or your side? If you aren't sure, consider pleating instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will you be able to ignore the loose ends of the strings or will they bother you? You can keep them shorter than shown in the picture (sew them in place) or pleat the fabric instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pattern&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front is basically a big rectangle with a very narrow triangular neck that gets stretched by the drawstrings. The width of the front panel looks a little wider than the width of a well-fitting t-shirt. I'm sure you can adapt a simple tunic pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you want a drawstring at the back as well (keep your comfort in mind!), the back must be cut to your actual size. That poses the problem that the shoulder of the front panel is wider than the back. You either have to cut the back panel wider from the waist up, or find another way to fit both pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Construction of a drawstring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the fabric for your nighty is rather thin. In that case you should encase the drawstring on all sides to protect the frabric from wear. Cut long rectangles (the width depends on the size of your strings), hem the short sides and sew the long sides together to make tubes. Iron the seams open right in the middle of the tube (will be the underside). Place the tubes on your nighty seam facing down and sew then in place along the top and bottom edge, then insert the strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that adds too much bulk, you can get away with encasing only the top of the drawstring. Cut long rectangles, hem the short sides and sew them in place with the cut edge double folded inwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any cheap fabric like muslin lying around or an old bedsheet you want to throw away, make a mockup before cutting your desired fabric. This helps you finding the correct size and refining your pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to make a mockup, I advise drawing the pattern without seam allowences and then adding generous seam allowances all around (at least 1.5 inch / 4 cm, more is better). This gives you enough fabric to gradually refine your pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: you can always cut away, but you cannot uncut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T14:07:19.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3273" CreationDate="2020-06-17T14:29:26.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something the other answers have missed is your priming method. There is B-I-N shellac which is specifically a priming shellac that is designed to cover stains, but other typical shellacs may dry to a hard glossy finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint you are applying has to have something to grab on to. If the primer layer is too slick or non-compatible with your paint much of the paint in each stroke will just slide along the surface, leaving the inconsistent lines. So if your lines are well pigmented (the paint is solidly opaque) but have gaps or streaks then it is the priming* and not the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, your paint (as the others have noted) has to be quality, well pigmented, and thinned to the right consistency to go on smooth but not so much that it makes the paint too dilute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*You may also need a brush with bristles that are longer and softer so the brush delivers the paint without &quot;scratching&quot; or scraping it in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T14:29:26.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8243" CreationDate="2020-06-17T15:07:02.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the background was created by the use of randomly layering acrylic paints from darkest to lightest on the background canvas using something like sea sponges, waiting for each paint layer to dry, then adding the next lighter color. Turn the sponge frequently &amp;amp; use different sponges as well so that you get more random patterns all over. Given that this is acrylics, you may not have to wait for the paint to dry; it won't mess up the layer below like watercolor would. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;lines&quot; definitely look like slightly thinned paint dropped on and the canvas tilted to allow the paint to run in a line.  A spatula knife may have been used to pull the paint into lines as well - use it to put a small dot of slightly thinned paint on the canvas, tilt the canvas if not already tilted, and pull the spatula knife towards you and/or in a downwards direction in a relatively straight line.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2020-06-17T15:07:02.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2020-06-18T06:54:35.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a good way to cut them using a serrated knife and a clipboard with a bunch of printing paper held onto it. Those clipboards with wire clips work better. I slip the stick inside the wire and it holds it firmly. I place so that the end I want to cut sticks out of the top of the clipboard, so I can access it. Now I use the serrated knife to saw the intended part off. Generally works well. &#xA;I also used a dremel before with  circular saw blades,but it is kinda risky. However placing it within the clipboard makes it safer, but cumbersome.&#xA;So I think this serrated knife+clipboard will work fine for smaller quantity of works, and switch to dremel + clipboard for bigger projects.&#xA;There may be a few jagged strands that can be cut with scissors for a smooth edge.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptFJk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptFJk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of cutting popsickle stick&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QKkd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2QKkd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of popsickle stick fixed in the clipboard and the serrated knife&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9294" LastActivityDate="2020-06-18T06:54:35.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8264" CreationDate="2020-06-19T02:04:57.910" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;When sketching, I can usually visualize a comic strip containing multiple images that tell a story. I want to try merge the images of a comic strip into a single drawing that has a story. I don't know how to merge these images as each of them are from different points in time and have the same character performing different actions. An example I have in mind is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lively cup of coffee&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tired vampire drinking the coffee&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vampire now looking lively&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The coffee now looking exhausted and drained&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could draw each of these bullet points as an image on its own, but I don't know how to draw a single image representing all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What drawing techniques can I use to tell a story and depict change?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9298" LastEditorUserId="9298" LastEditDate="2020-06-21T22:53:40.033" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T13:37:57.403" Title="How to tell a story through pencil drawings?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2020-06-19T17:43:16.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of different ways to do this. Popsicle sticks are thin wood thats also cheap, so they break easily. Using a sharp blade to score it works well. Using a mini hacksaw works pretty well. The easiest and fastest thing Ive found is a Dremel/rotary carver. Find a cutting bit, and draw a line down the stick. Then just cut down the line. It does it just a few seconds, and you can make it as thin or as wide as you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T17:43:16.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-20T22:07:02.240" Score="2" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dOG61.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dOG61.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pictured below, what are some ways to repair the damage shown on a book’s page?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is to use several matte-finish shipping labels as a medium for fixing the page. Would this approach work? Are there others I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9306" LastEditorUserId="2335" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T14:35:58.773" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T05:42:11.580" Title="Page repair ideas" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8270" CreationDate="2020-06-21T19:34:33.060" Score="4" ViewCount="2183" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the name for this style of cartooning? Has anyone written about its history? It's been around for a few years and people are using it everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I've noticed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's used a lot by corporations for web artwork. The sample below was grabbed from a YouTube newsletter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It often has pastel colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is never or rarely any shading, colors are completely flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No/rare borders around shapes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It often includes humans.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Humans have &amp;quot;chunky&amp;quot; bodies. In the picture below the man has a gigantic hand and too broad shoulders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bodies and especially limbs are drawn with curves. The man below doesn't have a sharp elbow, he has a noodle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diverse skin colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone is doing this so that means everyone's copying off of everyone else. But who came up with the original idea? Is there any relation to Apple's iOS 7 flat design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3yJK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3yJK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9308" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T12:04:04.323" LastActivityDate="2024-03-07T08:32:13.333" Title="What's the name of this cartoon style?" Tags="|style-identification|illustration|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8265" CreationDate="2020-06-21T22:34:10.537" Score="2" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working through Perspective Made Easy, and the introductory section about parallel lines has thrown me, specifically pages 23 through 25. The diagrams are especially confusing to me; for example, on page 24 it says: &amp;quot;As he raises his eyes and looks fifty feet in front of him he sees the same width of tracks but within a much narrower area&amp;quot;, but the cone of his vision is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; narrower, merely stretched &lt;em&gt;longer&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qFZtH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qFZtH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Perspective Made Easy, pages 24/25&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the description, I would either expect the man's vision to be far broader than the tracks (especially so for the more distance piece), or perhaps the distant piece of track narrower than the closer piece (although, physically speaking, we know this isn't the case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've obviously observed the phenomenon of scale being affected by distance in real life, but I'm trying to articulate the rules behind this so I can understand and implement them better in art practice, and diagrams/phrasing such as the above are confusing me more than they are helping. Can someone rephrase this or draw up a better illustration? It's left me even more confused about perspective than my default instincts, so I'd really appreciate the clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9310" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T19:13:26.533" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T19:13:26.533" Title="Why are parallel lines in the real world not drawn parallel as they head to the vanishing point?" Tags="|drawing|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8258" CreationDate="2020-06-22T03:11:30.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several different ways you can depict multiple actions taking place over time in a single panel, depending on who is doing the action, what the action entails, and which components remain constant/static over the duration of those actions. The key is that you are depicting both movement in time and space (e.g. you're showing an action that occurs over time, not multiple actions taking place simultaneously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if you had a pet mouse crawling all over its human companion, you could have the human remain in a single, fixed position. For the main image, you could have the person sitting at the kitchen table, holding the mouse in their hand to illustrate their relationship with each other. But then the mouse can be drawn in many other places to create the impression that it's curious, energetic, and explorative - in the person's hair, on their shoulder, peeking out from the cuff of their other hand, sliding across the table, climbing the back of the chair, peeking out from behind the salt shaker on the table or a jar on the shelf behind the person. The other action poses of the mouse can be drawn in less detail or in lighter shades so that the main pose - that of the person holding the mouse - is more emphasized. Sven Nordqvist makes use of this technique in &lt;em&gt;Pettson and Findus&lt;/em&gt; quite often - see below for an example.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFo7u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFo7u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From Findus Disappears by Sven Nordqvist&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(Source: &lt;em&gt;Findus Disappears!&lt;/em&gt; by Sven Nordqvist)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an action carried over a distance, you could show a long, landscape drawing with the subject shown in various mid-action positions to illustrate their movement across the landscape - for instance, a child running and playing through a park. You could even depict a greater passage of time by having the subject and other components of the background (trees, houses, etc.) age as they travel across the scene - think of Simba, Timone, and Pumbaa as they cross the log bridge in Disney's &amp;quot;The Lion King&amp;quot; (the original animated classic; not sure if the newer movie has this scene) - as they travel over the log, you can imagine creating a single still image where they are young at the start of the log, and as they walk from left to right across the log, in the middle is a young, adolescent Simba with Timone and Pumbaa, and near the end of the log he's full-grown, mane and all.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rQPW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rQPW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Composite image conveniently available here: https://9gag.com/gag/a846Lr3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://9gag.com/gag/a846Lr3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://9gag.com/gag/a846Lr3&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen some stunning examples of actions taking place over a single vertically-oriented panel in comics drawn by NanoMortis and Yuumei on DeviantArt.&#xA;Here is one such example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.deviantart.com/nanomortis/art/Up-All-Night-596184746&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Up All Night&amp;quot; by Nanomortis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular example of the coffee-drinking vampire, you could have the starting and ending positions of the vampire change over time. For instance, perhaps he starts out seated at the table/counter, slumped over the lively cup of coffee, but then after drinking the coffee, he perks up, while the now sad and empty cup of coffee has been knocked over on the table. You can have these poses overlapping and have one constant, static setting, with light lines drawing the intermediate stage(s) in between. If you're using color, that could be a great way to show the transition from the first phase to the final - perhaps a cool color scheme transitioning to bright/hot (to show the change in the vampire's energy), with the intermediate tones in muted/light tones so that the first and final stages are the most contrasting colors and pop out more than the transition. Otherwise, if you're working in graphite only, you can use dark, sharp, crisp lines for the final pose only, and lighter lines for the earlier position and transition. In either case, the transition poses should be less detailed to avoid cluttering the image too much and to produce the illusion of movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first and final poses are too similar, such that they overlap significantly, then you might need to do a sort of &amp;quot;merged panel&amp;quot; drawing - that is, show each of the stages (including the inanimate objects in the background/setting- you can link the counter together to appear as one continuous object to establish continuity between each stage) repeated over the length of the image, but separately instead of overlapping (or with some slight overlap). This may work if there's a certain motion that carries through the repeated image (e.g. the motion of lifting the cup to the vampire's mouth can help guide the eye in the same direction over the repeated images).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just some ideas off the top of my head, but hopefully these can help give you some ideas to work with. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastEditorUserId="2335" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T11:48:19.813" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T11:48:19.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8263" CreationDate="2020-06-22T05:08:05.880" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will preface my response with a cautionary warning that I am an engineer by profession, so I am somewhat naturally inclined to use optics/physics and math to illustrate my point. Hopefully I'm enough of an artist to actually be able to illustrate this sufficiently well. Now, onwards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A person's field of vision can be described as the &amp;quot;cone&amp;quot; radiating out away from your face that describes the area you see as you look straight away from you, with the tip at your face and the cone expanding wider as you look farther away - that is, the farther away you look, the wider your horizontal field of view. (So you are correct here - the person's field of view is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; wider than it appears in the book's diagram. Those lines extending from their head should continue beyond the tracks.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkizP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkizP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-maximum-angle-a-human-eye-can-see/answer/Rohit-Grover-7&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rohit Grover's answer on Quora&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the calculations, I'll use 120 degrees as the angle of the field of view, which includes peripheral vision. I'll also assume your field of vision of the ground is approximately the same as your field of vision at a horizontal distance straight ahead of your face (instead of looking slightly downward toward the tracks on the ground) - however, if I did include the vertical component, your field of vision would be slightly wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I read up on some of the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/202251/why-railroad-tracks-seem-to-converge#:%7E:text=When%20you%20look%20at%20parallel,the%20tracks%20take%20up%20diminishes&quot;&gt;a similar question that was asked on the Physics StackExchange.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Basically, as the railroad tracks lead away from you, the width of the tracks take up a smaller portion of your field of view, which creates the impression that the space between the tracks becomes smaller as it moves away from you.&lt;/strong&gt; At the farthest point that you can see, the tracks take up such a small portion of your field of view that they appear to converge into a single point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate this a little more, I have provided a simple diagram and some calculations below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrunI.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrunI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(Source: My own skills in MS Paint.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black parallel tracks are the railroad tracks. On the left is the viewer (you), represented by a squashed oval, who is looking down the tracks. Your field of vision is illustrated by the red lines, which create an approximately 120-degree angle, beginning at the viewer and extending outward. 120 degrees was wider than I had anticipated, so you'll have to imagine the lines extending beyond the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using some basic geometry, we can calculate the width of your field of vision at different distances away from you. The standard gauge (width between the rails) of a US railroad track is 4 ft 8.5 in (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.saferack.com/railroad-track-facts-construction-safety/#:%7E:text=How%20wide%20are%20railroad%20tracks,width%20between%20the%20two%20rails&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)- I'll round this to 5 ft to simplify the calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say &lt;strong&gt;Point 1&lt;/strong&gt; (light blue) is &lt;strong&gt;7 ft away&lt;/strong&gt; from you. Using some trigonometry, we can approximate the width of your field of view at 7ft away. One half of the triangle forming your field of view is, quite conveniently, a 30-60-90 right triangle, as shown below.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqqW4.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqqW4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this triangle is half the field of vision, the full width across the horizontal field of vision at 7 ft away from you is roughly 24.24 ft. That means &lt;strong&gt;the percent of this horizontal field of vision that is occupied by the 5-ft distance between the railroad tracks is just over 20%.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say &lt;strong&gt;Point 2&lt;/strong&gt; (green) is &lt;strong&gt;20 ft away&lt;/strong&gt; from you. At this distance, your horizontal field of vision is 2 x 20 x sqrt(3) = 69.28 ft. &lt;strong&gt;The 5-ft distance between the tracks is now 7% of your horizontal field of vision.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HgjR.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HgjR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Point 3&lt;/strong&gt; (yellow green) is roughly &lt;strong&gt;40 ft away&lt;/strong&gt; from you. Here, your horizontal field of vision spans 2 x 40 x sqrt(3) = 139 ft. &lt;strong&gt;The 5-ft space between the tracks is now a mere 4% of your field of vision.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PiMe5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PiMe5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the Earth's curvature, the railroad tracks will eventually disappear over the horizon. Assuming you're an average-sized human, you can see about &lt;strong&gt;3 miles (15,840 ft) away&lt;/strong&gt; until something vanishes over the edge of the horizon (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.livescience.com/32111-how-far-away-is-the-horizon.html#:%7E:text=The%20old%20saying%20turns%20out,the%20height%20of%20the%20observer.&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). At this distance, your horizontal field of vision is now a whopping 2 x 15840 x sqrt(3) = 54,871 ft. &lt;strong&gt;At the horizon, the 5-ft space between the rails has now shrunk to only 0.0097% of your horizontal field of vision.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your eyes were sharp enough, you could hypothetically still see that gap between the rails. If they're not, from your perspective the 5-ft space between the rails will have essentially shrunk to nothing, and the rails will appear to converge to a single point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; your eyes sharp enough to still see that gap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the average person, &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=u43MTFr7-m8C&amp;amp;pg=PA54#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the angular resolution of the eye is approximately 1 arcminute&lt;/a&gt;, which means humans can distinguish things that are 30 cm apart at 1 km away. &lt;strong&gt;If we scale this to the width of the railroad tracks (4 ft 8.5 in, or 56.5 inches), you won't be able to see the space between them after&lt;/strong&gt; about 5400 yards, or &lt;strong&gt;3.07 miles.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Which, quite coincidentally, is almost exactly the distance to the visible horizon.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In summary:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parallel lines appear to converge toward each other because as they retreat into the distance, they take up a smaller portion of your field of view.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parallel lines appear to meet in the horizon because our eyes can no longer distinguish the space between them at that distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps! =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastEditorUserId="2335" LastEditDate="2020-06-22T18:24:22.963" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T18:24:22.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8261" CreationDate="2020-06-22T05:57:21.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is material added to the surface of the page, I would try the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a cotton swab I would try to remove as much of the material as possible - using some solvents, obviously. The most obvious are water and acetone. Test the process on the white space between the lines. If it works, try above some letters. Be prepared (especially in the case of acetone) that it will dissolve the letters - which you do not want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end, you might want to use a black fine-tipped pen(cil) to redraw the letters - to bring the page as close to the original look as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If material is missing, just use the last step above - the one with the pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are more technically inclined, you can try to re-write the same test in your preferred text editor - using the same fonts, size, letters' position etc. Print the text - you may need to do several steps, until you get it right. When it is right, your printed paper should look like it was cut from the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once satisfied with the quality of the copy, just cut / crop the printed paper and glue the paper fragments to the book page - fitting / aligning the fragment &amp;quot;perfectly&amp;quot; with the original text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A glued glass fell on it and I removed it without much care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know the exact glue, then you might be able to find the right solvent for the cured glue - and use it as explained above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-07-20T05:42:11.580" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T05:42:11.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2020-06-22T13:18:21.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The safest way to cut popsicle sticks while minimizing the chance of splinters, is to put on a pair of gloves and use wire cutters to clip sections off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working in larger quantities of popsicles, it may be faster to score them where you need them cut, prior to using a wire cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9311" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T13:18:21.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2020-06-22T13:29:40.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're working with a concrete wall, the best bet with minimal damage all around would be RebusB's suggestion on attaching it to a wood board. Stretch it prior to attaching so it's taught and staple down onto plywood - this will give you the flexibility of moving it from one place to another as you need and minimal damage to the concrete wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9311" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T13:29:40.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8056" CreationDate="2020-06-22T13:36:17.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The true way to do it is as fred_dot_u (upvoted your answer!) suggested - a powder coat. However if you did want to hack it, you could spread a very thin layer of elmer's glue or a spray adhesive and roll the surface in a light layer of sand and let dry for a couple of hours. Once fully dry, spray paint it over. That should give you a similar sort of texture. My husband uses this method when he paints mini figurines and mini landscapes, and it works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9311" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T13:36:17.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2020-06-22T13:59:26.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The style could be named after its instigating minimalistic 'Flat design', or is simply called '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=flat+illustration&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;flat illustration&lt;/a&gt;', but it could also very well be there's no (official) terminology for this specific form of graphic design (yet).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_design&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flat design&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;' has become very popular in the last 7 years or so. I think a major influence on this style becoming more common was the increasing popularity of tablets: as they are controlled through touch screens and have relatively large screens, they required a new way of navigating, and large and easy to see tiles were an obvious choice.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As dynamic, coloured tiles organized into grids were used, the need for hierarchical vertical navigation diminished, and so did the need for extensive use of highlights, drop shadows, and other depth simulating effects and '&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skeuomorph&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;skeuomorphic&lt;/a&gt;' design elements (iOS 7 indeed embraced this need for a renewed design, but I think a better example of these changes is Microsoft Windows 8, which design is called '&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metro_(design_language)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metro&lt;/a&gt;' (a.k.a. '&lt;a href=&quot;https://designmodo.com/modern-ui/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Modern UI&lt;/a&gt;').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around five years ago, the need for a more intuitive design became apparent, and innovations on flat design were grouped under the name '&lt;em&gt;Flat design 2.0&lt;/em&gt;' (or 'semi-flat' or 'almost flat design') (for more background information, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://uxplanet.org/buttons-in-ui-design-the-evolution-of-style-and-best-practices-56536dc5386e&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://slickplan.com/blog/the-flat-design-revolution&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nngroup.com/articles/flat-design/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These innovations include a reintroduction of shadows and other 3-dimensional effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As common user interfaces change, graphic design and illustration have to 'evolve' along with them (arguably because users like their digital experiences to be unified), and this is why flat graphics and illustrations have become very popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good design necessitates the need for specific changes within these styles to be compatible with and complement the other, so improvements are made constantly, and these influence naturally occurring preferences (like in all art styles).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The current trend in illustration seems to favour somewhat naive depictions, as in the image you have posted. The increasing presence of humans (of different skin tones) could be a reaction to current political events, or simply to the idea that (web) design ought to be all-inclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T13:59:26.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-06-24T19:20:53.907" Score="3" ViewCount="538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a tray with a glass mosaic inlay. The raised edges of the glass pieces are rather sharp and I want to cover them with a clear layer. What can I use to safely accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-07-31T20:07:45.327" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T20:07:45.327" Title="What can I use to cover raised mosaic edges?" Tags="|glass|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2020-06-24T20:08:28.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would help to know the tray material and finish (a picture of the edge detail would be great), and it isn't clear whether you are referring to just the outer edge of the mosaic area or every glass tile, but here are a few ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is the outer perimeter of the mosaic area, &lt;strong&gt;remove the sharp edges with a Dremel tool and diamond disk.&lt;/strong&gt;  Clamp the tray and tiles in a towel to dampen vibrations.  Use a little water or oil on the spot you're grinding to reduce heat and vibration.  You won't need to remove much to dull the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is the outer perimeter of the mosaic area, &lt;strong&gt;cover the edge with clear silicone caulk.&lt;/strong&gt;  Clean the surface with alcohol.  Use masking tape to create a clean, straight border close to the sharp area on both sides of the mosaic edge.  Either use your finger to spread the caulk, or dilute the caulk with paint thinner and paint over the sharp edge using a brush.  Remove the masking tape while the caulk is still uncured.  I would be careful using the tray because silicone can often be peeled off surfaces it's adhered to (but if that happens, you can peel it off and replace it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is the outer perimeter of the mosaic area, an alternative to a clear covering would be to &lt;strong&gt;cover the sharp edge with a &amp;quot;leaded glass&amp;quot; border.&lt;/strong&gt;  Wrap the sharp edge with a strip of copper foil, then solder the foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is on all of the glass tiles, you could add a layer of clear silicone over the whole surface.  However, sharp edges over the entire surface would indicate that the grout isn't high enough.  You can get color-matched grout at big hardware chains or stores that sell tile.  &lt;strong&gt;Add more grout to bring the level up to the top surface so no sharp edges are exposed.&lt;/strong&gt;  That might also be an option if the problem is only on the outer perimeter; depending on the design of the tray, you may be able to add a border of grout around the outside edge of the mosaic to cover the sharp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-06-25T09:44:47.093" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T09:44:47.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8286" CreationDate="2020-06-25T06:33:38.043" Score="6" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen on Instagram that artists are able to draw curved lines which appear as if drawn by machines.&#xA;I have also observed artists holding their pen in different ways than what is taught in schools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/tv/B_PM7xmn4hG/?igshid=18m2vcvx8q0xm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; the artist has covered the pen by their thumb in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what are the ways of holding pencils/pens for drawing are, and also what kind of grip will result in what kind of drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please add pictures too for a better understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T07:35:16.393" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T07:39:22.257" Title="What are the different pencil/pen holding techniques for drawing? Which should be followed in which case?" Tags="|drawing|technique-identification|pencils|pens|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8277" CreationDate="2020-06-26T18:21:53.390" Score="1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased some 6m wire from the dollar store for a sculpting project.  However, the wire seems to have a sheathing on the outside.  (See pic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Jp0q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Jp0q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this stuff safe for baking in the oven with my sculpt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9324" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2020-07-02T02:25:01.407" LastActivityDate="2020-07-02T02:25:01.407" Title="Can Dollar Store Tool Bench Hardware Wire be baked in oven?" Tags="|wire|clay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8276" CreationDate="2020-06-26T19:12:28.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hfunderground.com/board/index.php?topic=32218.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, the black and red coloured wires are insulated with plastic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;2 coils at 33 feet wire red plastic insulation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;2 coils at 33 feet wire black plastic insulation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you find packages with the regular 'silver' coloured wire - which according to a review &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dollartree.com/tool-bench-wire-set-4pc/281345&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; might actually be hard - I suggest using different wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T19:12:28.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8275" CreationDate="2020-06-26T19:29:34.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an adult with fully-developed motor skills, the holding technique that's best for you for a specific application will largely come naturally.  Some muscles are stronger than others, some joints are more flexible than others, and some positions trade off fine control vs. strength and stamina.  For extremely fine detail, you can manipulate the point of the instrument mostly with your fingertips and a little wrist motion.  For filling a large area, you will naturally rely more on your arm muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you engage in the activity often and for prolonged periods, you will build up strength, stamina, and coordination in the muscles you use, and your body will naturally adapt and improve as you practice.  As you get older and develop conditions like arthritis that interfere with optimum techniques, your body will compensate to rely more on other joints and muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People can learn to use almost any technique with enough practice.  If you watch the brush technique of some Japanese artists, it's amazing that they are able to get paint or ink even close to where they want it because it would be hard to invent a worse technique from a bio-mechanics perspective.  And yet, with lots of practice, they are able to accomplish some amazing control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, you will have better control if you use a position that is comfortable for you and allows you relax muscles that aren't necessary to the activity as much as possible.  There are a few &amp;quot;tricks&amp;quot;, like drawing a more uniform curve by emulating a compass with your hand and anchoring part of your hand as the center.  That will get you to a nice curve faster than developing the coordination and skill to do it freehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gone as far as you can using the techniques that come naturally, you might be able to improve your control with an adjustment to the technique and practice with it.  But holding a drawing instrument isn't like learning to use chopsticks, where a special hand position is required for it to work at all.  The impressive results you see from experienced artists aren't due much to the specific holding technique.  It's due mostly to skill developed through a lot of practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T19:29:34.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8275" CreationDate="2020-06-27T22:44:00.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a previous discussion here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/6480/what-exercises-can-i-do-to-improve-the-line-quality-of-my-drawings/7491#7491&quot;&gt;What exercises can I do to improve the line quality of my drawings?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holding a pencil is mostly up to the artist's preference.&#xA;Discussed in the link above, if you want to have shorter strokes or finer detail, you would want to use more of the fingertips. If you want a more fluid motion in a line/drawing, you would want to use more of your elbow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holding the pencil closer to the tip would also help more for finer detail, while holding it towards the middle of the pencil, would be for longer strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holding a pencil or pen in my own experience, the hand/fingers can start to get stiff/or arthritic over time. Finding myself holding the pencil differently (than we were taught in school) is for comfort, more than a specific effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2020-06-30T16:32:27.873" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T16:32:27.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8282" CreationDate="2020-06-29T14:26:51.403" Score="9" ViewCount="2209" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I have found myself learning more about the human body anatomy, and less focused on the human anatomy of the face, I am struggling with the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am an expressionist. I do want accuracy, and opinion of anatomy. But want more feeling into the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been studying the human body for almost ten years, and learning how to draw the human body. I am struggling with how to make the human body more fleshy/plump looking. Less flat. I struggle particularly with the breast/chest bone area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;how do I make the human body more fleshy/plump in appearance?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realized that yes, contrast is a huge issue that is facing with this. Also taking into consideration the gradient of depth that would be going into a drawing/painting particularly around the chest/collar area. Sometimes realizing maybe the photograph just wasn't the best of choice. What caught my eye about this photograph was the soft purple pink hues of the atmospheric image. Almost in a dream-like state.&#xA;I also realized after closer investigation, I was struggling with where the actual light source was coming from, which would cause a lot of issues on my part of the shading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original photograph:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Free to use stock image credit:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pexels.com/photo/woman-in-black-bra-inside-room-3279545/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pexels.com/photo/woman-in-black-bra-inside-room-3279545/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nBDeW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nBDeW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First steps:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7Eo2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7Eo2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd improvement steps:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywXxw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywXxw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3rd improvement steps: I tried the method of turning the image upside down to focus more  on its shapes instead of the image as a whole. I also, did a bit of shading/smoothing, compared to the third rendition. Focused on the sternum part of the body as well.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OsMDS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OsMDS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4th improvement steps(after working with suggestions):&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoPEo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoPEo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T16:52:54.097" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T16:52:54.097" Title="How to draw human body in chest/collarbone area?" Tags="|drawing|portrait-drawing|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8281" CreationDate="2020-06-29T17:13:49.300" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the main reasons the curviness seems lacking is because &lt;strong&gt;the contrast is too high or uneven, and your hatching doesn't follow the curves of the body.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quite abrupt ending of the shading on the breast(s) - the upper part, that seems to be erased with a kneaded eraser in a dotted way, and the dark area of the person's right breast (image 1) - gives the idea there is a sudden concavity or bulge where the transition should be smooth. &lt;em&gt;Curviness, plumpness or fleshiness are all about smooth transitions.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Also look at the curvature and the colour value of the sternum in the original image: it's not as bright as the highlights on the sitter's breast, and there is a gradation from right to left, where it is partially obscured by the right breast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6jW9B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6jW9B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;indication of abrupt transitions in the drawing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image 1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shadow on the left shoulder has its darkest shade in the contour, close to the light, while the original has a quite even cast shadow, and the rest of the shadow seems flat because it seems completely independent of the shape underneath it (image 1).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I suggest following the lines of the body while hatching, and initially only focusing on the shading that is a direct consequence of the local shapes - the shade underneath the collar bone, the even subtler shade in the depression of the tissue between the arm and breast, and the shade on top of the shoulder (very hard to see here, but compare it to the original):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfsyG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfsyG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;indication of the shades that follow the curves of the body in the reference image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After these have been shaded satisfactorily, the cast shadow can be drawn on top of it, evenly, so the underlying structure will remain visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treat the entire body as the one single entity it is, and shade accordingly&lt;/strong&gt;: note the lightest parts (the faces where the light hits at such an angle that it bounces directly towards the observer), and the darkest parts (that are opposite the light source or obscured by other parts or objects), and shade these all evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional remarks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sternocleidomastoid_muscle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sternocleidomastoid&lt;/a&gt; muscle seems a little misaligned: in your drawing it seems to originate at the sternum on the left side (of the person in the picture), while it should originate at the right side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it a habit to look at the shape of areas &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; forms, as they will often give evident clues of how the shapes on both sides are related.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For example:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wxx0p.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wxx0p.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shading on the face is very well done, because there is an obvious visual transition between the shaded and lit part of the face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shading on the person's right shoulder is also well done, but to emphasize the light hitting it, I suggest making the edge of that well-lit part a lot lighter - unless you plan on making the background darker. Contours are imaginary help lines and don't really occur in real life. They should almost without exception be as light or dark as the shape it is the edge of (they seem to occur in photographs sometimes, but that has to do with the way light is captured and/or the compression of images).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider working with charcoal to (partially) circumvent the problem of hatching (depending on the quality/type of charcoal and paper), as smooth transitions will be a lot easier to attain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T17:13:49.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8276" CreationDate="2020-06-29T21:52:57.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are making an armature , a good hardware store will have several sizes of bare copper wire . Mostly larger diameters like 12 gauge up to 000 ( guessing 0.312&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T21:52:57.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8281" CreationDate="2020-06-30T07:18:25.940" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is meant as an addition to Joachims answer, so I won't repeat what he already pointed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry if this sounds nitpicky, but it seems to me like you start the process of drawing with the contour of the person, then you add the outlines of the strongest shadows to give the flat contour some dimension and lastly you fill the outline with different shades of grey to mimic the contrast you see in the photo. That approach is what leads you to get the shadows wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I find it easier to think of my final picture in 3 main tones that I apply in precisely this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The base color (a medium tone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadows (a darker tone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Highlights (the lightest tone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Admittedly I usually paint with acryllics, so setting highlights is as easy as adding a brighter paint. In drawings you either have to leave the highlighted areas bare or erase your lines in the area.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your painting I see only 2 of those tones: shadows and highlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To show you what I mean with 3 tones I opened the original photo in MS Paint and converted it to a 256 color bitmap. This reduction of colors makes the areas of the body more visible. The shadows are converted to a blueish purple, the highlights almost a pink, the medium tone a brown. To make it more visible I highlighted the medium tone in a second example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRHBT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRHBT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4rXxC.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4rXxC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It covers the sternum, her right shoulder and most of her right breast and the right side of her left breast. In your drawing these areas are so light that you cannot effectively highlight the parts of the breast that are actually hit by the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gap between her breasts, right above the bra, is almost white in your drawing, which suggests it stands out enough to be hit with lots of light. In the photo it actually has a medium dark tone with gradual transitions towards even darker shadows left and right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The center of the models left arm in your drawing is almost as bright as her neck. But since it is even further away from the light source than the neck, it actually has to be much darker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, these errors happen when you concentrate on small areas of the thing you draw instead of the whole thing. You replicate the contrast between colors in very small areas (like right between her breasts) without keeping the overall tone in mind.&#xA;Just as Joachim wrote,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treat the entire body as the one single entity it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the contour of the object or person, then start lightly shading all the areas that are not directly hit by light, but ignore the cast shadows in this step. Gradually add more strokes to these areas to work out the 3-dimensional shape. This creates your medium tone. Only then concentrate on details like cast shadows. Since you put the medium tone there before, the overall impression will be much more cohesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional note: Her bra in the original photo is black. In my experience pure black and pure white are extremely problematic colors in painting and drawing. If you actually fill such a big area in flat black, you'll probably smudge it around, creating a mess, and all dimension is lost due to the flat color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of replicating the photo, I would treat the black bra as dark grey (as you correctly did) and add shadows and highlights according to how the light would be reflected off any other color. Meaning, I would add shadows to the underside of her breasts and keep the triangular tops and straps of her bra lighter than they appear in the photo, just to emphasize the 3-dimensional shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T07:18:25.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8281" CreationDate="2020-06-30T08:33:47.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need to practice working from photographs that are less 'lingerie catalogue'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my eye, this photo looks as though the model's chest has been digitally enlarged.  Notice how the skin just above the bra on the left breast is slightly more shaded than the skin above it, and that the shading follows the bra-line rather linearly.  That seems unlikely to be a natural contour line. Furthermore, the choice of a pitch-black bra allows for easier digital enlargement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAMKU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAMKU.png&quot; alt=&quot;bad shading&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be warned that photographs that are meant to have sex appeal very often alter their models this way, and that the alterations often contain visual errors that you do not want to copy.  If it is your goal to draw cleavage, you would be better off working from pre-digital era photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am including a (very quickly done) alteration to your drawing that I think gives it more roundness.  Basically, you need a rounded highlight on top of the breasts, more so on her left than her right because of the lighting angle.  Note that this highlight is much more prominent with structured bras, which she appears to be wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwxWu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwxWu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Round Highlight&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9336" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-01T07:56:32.850" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T07:56:32.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8275" CreationDate="2020-06-30T13:45:35.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's mostly a matter of preference, but the way you hold a pen(cil) does influence the pressure, precision, range, and rotation.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone develops a preferred way of holding a pen (often when learning to write), and as this grip is likely used the most, it usually is the most comfortable for that person. Because of this experience (training), this grip usually allows for the most control over whatever is being put to paper. Even if a person has two different grips for writing and drawing, both are likely developed sufficiently to allow for interchanging. Some people might resort to their 'writing grip' when adding detail or, vice versa, when sketching, depending on their handwriting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still - and this can become obvious when looking at pencil grips from a mechanical standpoint - the way one holds a pen(cil) has an effect on the pressure one can exert with the point, and the precision and range with which one can draw.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Finding the proper average for any specific task can increase the effectiveness of that technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A general rule is to &lt;strong&gt;adjust your grip to the shapes you have to put down&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As with many other tools, the pen(cil) will ideally be treated as an extension of your body, and the grip should adapt to what your mind dictates to be put to paper, becoming a natural and subconscious link in this mechanism. I think it's helpful to think about this while drawing, so you can become aware of what aspects could use extra attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Parameters&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The different aspects of drawing can be manipulated with these adjustments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pressure&lt;/strong&gt; is easier to control when a pen(cil) is held close to the tip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similarly, &lt;strong&gt;precision&lt;/strong&gt; is easier to control when a pen(cil) is held closer to the tip, but only for precision within relatively small areas. To draw more precisely within larger areas, you also need to have better control of the range:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can increase &lt;strong&gt;range&lt;/strong&gt; by moving your grip of the pen(cil) away from the tip, and vice versa. You can adjust the way you hold your pen(cil) while doing so (see 'other grips' below).&#xA;For control over both range and precision, you'll hold the pen(cil) at a compromising point along the shaft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rotation or curving&lt;/strong&gt; while drawing can be controlled at two points: using the pivot point where the pen(cil) is held between thumb and index finger, or using the pivot point of your entire hand at the side of your hand on which it rests on the paper or working surface (when working horizontally). You can shift these point easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Regular grips&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two extreme examples of more common grips (when working horizontally) are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Holding your pen(cil) &lt;em&gt;vertically&lt;/em&gt; (like in the video you linked) allows for more precision and higher pressure, and is useful for adding detail, to emphasize the correct lines in a sketch, darkening lines, or adding patterns (for textures, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Holding your pen(cil) almost &lt;em&gt;horizontally&lt;/em&gt; allows you to cover more area in less time, and to draw lighter lines, and is useful for (quick) sketching, arching or hatching of larger areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of grips between these extremes, and your default grip is likely an average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other grips/tweaks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are some rarer grips and 'tweaks':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Working vertically (during live model drawing, for example), you can hold the pen(cil) as if holding a pointing stick, laser pointer, or conducting baton, even, where the end of the pen(cil) remains on the inside of your hand. This way, you can easily reach a large surface of the paper, from above your head to below your waist, while being able to quickly walk back and forward in order to see the overall image, almost as if you're fencing with your drawing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Along with the pivot points of the hand mentioned earlier (under 'parameters'), you can facilitate drawing arches and other rounded lines and shapes by adjusting the angle at which the pen(cil) lies in your hand and touches the paper (its '&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aircraft_principal_axes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;yaw&lt;/a&gt;', if that makes it any easier :).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With some grips you can use your pinky for extra stability and precision.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(These last two 'tweaks' can also be used when you need to avoid parts of a drawing in order to prevent scuffing.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I suggest experimenting with these parameters and the angle with which you hold the pencil.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Ultimately, though, it is whatever you feel most comfortable with.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just stumbled upon this drawing from Gerardus Mercator's &lt;em&gt;Literarum latinarũ, quas italicas, cursorias- que vocãt, scribendarũ ratio&lt;/em&gt;, from 1549. It shows the 'proper' way to hold a pen when writing on maps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8s41.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8s41.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not very helpful in regard to your question, but it gives it a little historical context :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-31T07:39:22.257" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T07:39:22.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3841" CreationDate="2020-06-30T19:54:08.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learning to draw from books is fine, you just need to find the right books to work from.  Figure drawing tends to be highly realistic with heavy emphasis on shading, which doesn't sound like the style you're going for.  I think a basic book on proportion would help, and I'd also recommend looking around for an art class you could take.  Art classes can help you a lot more than books because you can ask the teacher questions and talk with the other students.  Art classes for adults are a lot better than the ones you get in high school, it's like night and day.  You'll get a lot more support and encouragement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'd like gesture drawing.  Gesture drawing means basically looking at some pose by a model and quickly trying to capture the essence of it, in one minute or less.  You're not trying to make a finished picture, instead it's more of a scribble.  By doing it  you're training your brain to quickly pick out the essence of a pose and get that on the page along with the basic proportions.  It's really more of an exercise for your drawing hand.  The advantage is it's quick, so it's no loss if your scribbles don't look good.  I used to take a book of poses and spend about 30 seconds on each (with a timer) trying to get a basic gesture of each.  After doing that for about 15 minutes I'd draw, and my drawings would turn out a lot better because of the exercising I did beforehand.  I'd usually just throw the gesture drawings away - they're just exercises after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9342" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T19:54:08.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-01T10:27:03.510" Score="5" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to more or less figure out the mechanism behind a specific type of shading, as seen in the following image (the artist is &lt;em&gt;moderndayjames&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W18MP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W18MP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempt #1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JCM59.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JCM59.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempt #2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfHGX.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfHGX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linework:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yoNWN.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yoNWN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(Originals can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OD3GwYeHeXCsi2HzZVCX_KWPycwShgNCUfg6sHuiTOs/edit&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I noticed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scarce to zero cross-hatching; there is clear dichotomy between what is meant to be taken as areas of light and shadow, very little in between.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reference image is digital, although the work seems to indicate an emulation of pen and ink with a black marker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: this is meant to be a top lighting scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least could someone I.D. the style of shading being used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9347" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-01T11:46:53.697" LastActivityDate="2020-07-02T12:26:25.497" Title="Help on trying to achieve a specific type of shading" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8288" CreationDate="2020-07-01T12:51:11.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a style in-between &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=comic+line+drawing+character+coat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;line drawing&lt;/a&gt; illustrations and (a lighter version of) a typical &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=comic%20ink%20drawing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comic book inking&lt;/a&gt; style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a high-contrast style. Only deep shadows are filled in, so the rest can still be coloured in (by another artist). In this case, though, it is likely used as a stand-alone style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Characteristics&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deep shadows are exaggerated, and drawn as flat areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadows are added sparingly and economically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reflective surfaces like hair and metal often have additional shaded areas to emphasize their glossiness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The darkness and/or pattern of a material is sometimes lightly indicated by additional hatching, like the pants of the person on the left and the scarf of the person on the right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A subtle use of line weight (e.g. the contours of the clothing).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try seeing your model as if lit from above by a very bright light source, like the sun, and find out what areas will be &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; covered in shadow, like folds in clothing, and areas obscured by cast shadows, and only ink those areas.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T12:51:11.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8297" CreationDate="2020-07-01T21:50:37.120" Score="5" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been teaching myself drawing for about 6 months and find reference photos very helpful, especially to get proportions and values right. I usually use my phone for the since I don’t have a printer, but this limits me to smallish drawings, since I like to compare them side by side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it common to use small reference photos for larger drawings “freehand” (ie not using a grid method etc.)? Or is it more common to do a small same-size drawing from the photo and scale it with a grid? Or should I just get a tablet or a printer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9348" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T16:01:41.223" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T16:01:41.223" Title="Do reference photos have to be the same size as my final drawing?" Tags="|drawing|reference|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8288" CreationDate="2020-07-02T12:26:25.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shadows in your drawing differ too much from the &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; lines. They look like a different entity instead of being part of the whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I know of this style of shading, the shadows are drawn with the same type of pen as the outlines, like a sharpie, an actual ink pen or even a fine brush dipped in ink. The outlines gradually get thicker from the light areas to the shadows. How thick they'll be in the end depends on how much you want to emphasize the shadow, but at the transition between lit and shaded area, they shouldn't be much thicker than the normal lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can watch an artist create and explain shading by line weight in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/72S8Vo4c7WA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind where your light source is. In your first example the thick lines are all over the place and it's hard to recognize them as shadows at all. The places where those thick lines are don't seem to be realistic places for shadows. The second example is much better because you emphasized the shadow on the stomach that is cast by the arm and the shadow at the hips that is cast by the clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the shadow at the back of the shoulder is wrong there. The arm and clothing cast shadows as if the light comes from directly above the person. That means the soulder should be very bright, because it's very close to the light source. The shadows you drew on the shoulder indicate that the light source is at eye level in front of the person instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-07-02T12:26:25.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8291" CreationDate="2020-07-02T13:19:19.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do reference photos have to be the same size as my final drawing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically for individuals that begin learning to draw, they would start out in a grid method. To get a feel (muscle memory) where everything is proportionately going to be placed. Over time the hand and eye coordination will start to catch on over time. There are also other methods, such a projectors, or even tracing tables to help assist in large scale pieces of art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printers and tablets can be a good idea. It is common for artists to print out pieces of art, and grid on the printed piece of paper, to help with proportions as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-03T10:24:15.480" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T10:24:15.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-02T22:07:27.690" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say we had a couple of decades to make a sculpture, how detailed could we make a sculpture of the earth the size of a soccer ball?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it technologically possible to create human sculptures in proportion to our scaled earth such that can be seen using microscopes as we see humans from satellites in space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what could we see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if humans cannot be made, how big should we make the earth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9351" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2020-07-05T11:56:23.273" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T11:56:23.273" Title="How detailed could we make a sculpture of the earth the size of a soccer ball?" Tags="|sculpting|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2020-07-12T00:30:54.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8295" CreationDate="2020-07-03T04:27:05.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could only strive to make as smooth a ball as possible. Maybe just paint it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tallest mountain on that scale will be 0.11 [m radius of the soccer ball] / 6371000 [m mean radius of the Earth] * 8848 [m Everest height] ≈ 0.15 mm. A thickness of a sheet of good paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9352" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T04:27:05.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8291" CreationDate="2020-07-03T10:23:32.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no unambiguous answer to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're asking after the &lt;em&gt;common&lt;/em&gt; technique, which to me seems to be beside the real intent of your question: your choice in the size of reference images depends completely on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what &lt;em&gt;result&lt;/em&gt; you are aiming for;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; you work, and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what you're &lt;em&gt;comfortable&lt;/em&gt; with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity's sake, let's limit '&lt;em&gt;reference image&lt;/em&gt;' to only mean the image one is directly working from, and not any intermediary image (like the original picture that one might scale up and print).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all: &lt;strong&gt;no, reference images certainly don't have to be of the same size as your final drawing.&lt;/strong&gt; There is no single way to go about this, as every artist has a different workflow and goal in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Reference images can be of any size and any definition, but - naturally - larger and more detailed references will allow for more precision and detail in your final drawing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few things you can take into consideration before deciding on the right reference image size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Level of detail&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;The amount of visible detail in a reference image is important for the amount of detail you want to convey in your artwork&lt;/em&gt; (depending, of course, on the size of the artwork (#2)).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is related to the original image size and (in case of digital pictures) its resolution: when using physical references, blowing up the images for printing might not always give you the additional detail you need, as they might not have contained it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Size of your artwork&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As already mentioned in your post, this will have a huge influence on what size of reference material you choose. &lt;em&gt;The larger the drawing&lt;/em&gt; (or painting, or sculpture), &lt;em&gt;the more detail you'll likely want&lt;/em&gt; (potential exceptions being style (#4) and composition (#5)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Working method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;For some techniques you would need the reference to have the exact same size&lt;/em&gt; as that of your drawing ('pouncing' cartoon technique, transfer techniques (e.g. carbon paper)), whereas for others - you already mentioned the grid method, with which you can up- and downscale nearly anything - don't limit your image size at all (in which case you're only limited by level of detail (#1)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Personal style&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is quite important, but easily overlooked. &lt;em&gt;One artistic style needs far less definition than the other&lt;/em&gt;: for example, photorealism requires a significant amount of detail, while abstraction won't necessarily. Using thick brush strokes can easily imply detail, without necessitating it. At times yours truly has even incorporated the (accidental or intentional) compression artifacts present in images in my paintings (for conceptual reasons, admittedly, but still).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Composition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To put down the composition, both the structural as well as the colour composition, working from small images can be beneficial, as it is &lt;em&gt;easy to block in your artwork without being distracted by details&lt;/em&gt;. This of course also has to do with the stage of your work (#6), and usually is preferred at the beginning rather than the later stages of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stage of the work&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can also start working from a small image and &lt;em&gt;work your way up to larger versions&lt;/em&gt; as you add detail, or even return to smaller ones as you finish the composition and want to pay more attention to the colour composition (#5).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Facility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For working horizontally, with a small to medium-sized drawing lying on a surface in front of you, it still might be the easiest to work from a 1:1 reference image, because it will be &lt;em&gt;easier to see how both relate&lt;/em&gt;, and you get a much clearer idea of how much detail will be present in the final drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I myself usually don't care that much about the image size. Whenever I do print references, I print them on A4, independent of the artwork size, sometimes tweaking their contrast a little to get more easily discernible information from it. Admittedly, I mostly work from images shot with a high quality 16MP camera, or from high-resolution renders, but have worked from magazine snippets as well for significantly larger paintings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T10:23:32.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-03T15:43:41.000" Score="4" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased some green screen muslin as a background for video editing, and am wondering how to best attach it to the wall. Both the wall and the green screen are 6m wide and 3m high. Most of the time I'd expect the screen to hang off the wall, but I'd like to be able to move it away (so it should be a curtain) and to take it off and use it in different settings as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial approach would be to punch a few metal eyelets through it at a reasonable distance from the top, and run curtain hooks with wheels through these, which would allow me to remove or replace the hooks if needed, but should still give me the necessary strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does that sound viable, or would that be likely to rip out at some point?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it make sense to fold once, sew along the length and run the eyelets through two layers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I punch a proper hole, or is there a technique that will give me more strength?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cloth itself is rather light for its size, but I'd expect a bit of force when the curtain is drawn to the side (most of the force would be on the outermost hole then), or when someone stumbles into it (we're playing VR games in that room, so people are unable to see the wall unless they get near it and get a warning from the system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9353" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T12:58:42.260" Title="Muslin as a curtain with the option to remove hooks" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2020-07-04T05:54:57.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eyelets&lt;/strong&gt; sound like a viable solution, but I strongly advice against cutting holes for them. As soon as individual fibres are cut, the fabric will stretch far more under its own weight. In the worst case the eyelet hole could stretch bigger than the eyelet or rip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A techniqie that is used in corset making involves eyelets without cutting fibres, a little force and lots of pacience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the biggest sewing needle you have and poke a hole where you want the eyelet to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take some bigger object like a knitting needle or an actual awl to widen the hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat widening the hole with gradually bigger objects until you can insert the eyelet. The hole should be just barely big enough for the eyelet to guarantee a tight and secure fit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If stretching the hole is easily done without force, your fabrig is too fragile and will continnue stretching. In that case your idea of doubling the top edge and interfacing it (as pointed out by csk) might help. You can also sew a narrow strip of sturdy material to the top edge and insert the eyelets into this strip instead of the curtain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ensure your greenscreen doesn't wave in the slightest breeze, you should put some &lt;strong&gt;lead hem curtain tape&lt;/strong&gt; into the bottom edge. It's basically a string of lead beads, so keep the added weight for the eyelets and the curtain rail in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of lead hem tape in different weights:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GeB8S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GeB8S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea mentioned by csk is to &lt;strong&gt;insert a rod&lt;/strong&gt; into the top and ideally the bottom of the curtain, but one long rod would make it difficult to move the curtain. I would suggest a series of even length rods instead, which would allow the curtain to fold like a folding ruler. You could take the curtain off one location, store it in a compact way and move it to another location. Being able to move it away like a proper curtain involves some careful thinking and placing the rods and eyelets in the proper positions. I'm also not sure if this could wrinkle the greenscreen and how much those wrinkles would interfere with greenscreen technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T05:54:57.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8301" CreationDate="2020-07-04T06:00:51.803" Score="2" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always liked the little Minecraft papercraft figures that you can buy at the store. You punch out the figures from the sheet and then fold up along the fold creases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I saw some party boxes that used the same technique of pre-imprinted folds, as the paper was thick and trying to make the fold from scratch would be a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In trying to replicate this technique for a design of mine, I got a cut tool that I can roll around the sides of the outline to be assembled that cuts most of the construction paper, leaving a bit behind to hold it in. The pieces punch out without too much difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I still can’t get my head around how they get those perfect guide indentations for folds. Is there a tool that I can use which puts folds into flat paper so that folding up the design is as painless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8332" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T23:04:49.067" Title="Make imprinted folds in paper?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8300" CreationDate="2020-07-04T10:23:11.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;it's not a rolling tool, but a paper burnisher will do as you require. One form of the tool is a rod style handle with a rounded end similar to a ball bearing. In various sizes, they compress the paper when forced along a line, allowing the fold action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other forms are variations of this concept with the common factor of a rounded tip to prevent cutting or tearing of the surface being burnished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a production environment, one would expect that a die press is used with a rounded edge on the device contacting the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T10:23:11.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2020-07-04T12:58:42.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clips and dowels&#xA;This is what I do.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wukXJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wukXJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;curtain with hooks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see pink broadcloth and on the on the other side is standard muslin. Zoom into the top. You’ll see clips that you can purchase at a certain furniture box store or you can use binder clips from the stationary shop with shower curtain rings from a dollar store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case I used a curtain rod that I hung with command hooks to the wall so that nothing makes permanent marks and it is completely removable. It ain’t perfect or pretty but it’s been working for years and I can make it nicer when there’s time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qoizf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qoizf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up clips and stitch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;When I first put this up, it wasn’t stitched at all. Needed it fast. Then when I had time, did the sewing.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zfza2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zfza2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is how it hangs. To tie it back, there is a shoelace pinned to it. You can be fancy and use a curtain swag. This is why there are wrinkles in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another way I do this.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFwyJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFwyJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wall hanging&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Nails and a dowel and string with the clips.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NsHge.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NsHge.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up clips&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This piece is heavy so it hangs without help. But notice the weight stretches it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T12:58:42.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8354" CreationDate="2020-07-04T14:12:20.537" Score="9" ViewCount="1609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am laying out a frame where I will have to cut approximately 200 aligned 35mm circles in a matte board or foam core board. I will be putting plastic coins into the holes and backing with another board (exposed foam board or something with a little give to mould to the piece) to secure the coins from sliding or rotating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Fiskars Circle Cutter but have discovered through testing that while the device can make the circles, it lacks the depth to cut through the whole board.  I checked to see if they sell a replacement blade with more exposed length but they do not appear to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This then resulted in me fiddling about with an Exacto knife trying to make a clean completion cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to do a few holes I would  accept this method, but I am somewhat nervous at the thought of repeating the process 200 times without scoring or marring the matte.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware of a simpler technique?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I believe a punch is probably the correct tool, however I am reluctant to invest too much for a one-off project.  I also considered using a bore saw and my hand drill but am concerned that it would just make a horrid mess of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9358" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:30:14.003" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:30:14.003" Title="What tool or technique is best for cutting circles in matte board?" Tags="|cutting|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8303" CreationDate="2020-07-04T15:12:24.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried using the circle cutter from the front and back? On mine the centre pin is long enough to mark the back of the foam board I've used, but you may need to push a stiff pin through in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to be very careful to hold it exactly vertical if you're doing this, or the holes won't align, but that's always true in thick material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T15:12:24.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8303" CreationDate="2020-07-04T15:13:20.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to create your own punch by finding a piece of steel tubing of the correct inside diameter for your holes. Using a file or grinding wheel, work away at the outside edge of the tubing to create a sharp edge. Further refine the edge with sandpaper of gradually increasing grits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can stop periodically and test your work by placing a piece of the board atop the pipe, sandwich it between the pipe and a piece of solid lumber. Hardwood end grain is best, also more difficult to source, but for a 35 mm hole, not as bad as a 200 mm hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rap the wood with a mallet until the hole is created. This process will eventually dull the edge, but you can touch it up with a file (or grinding wheel) as needed to keep a clean cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also place the lumber under the foam board and wallop the pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser cutting is an option if there is a suitably equipped maker space, but that will leave burned edges unless the power is quite high. My 60w laser will create discolored edges and also under-cut (melt) the foam in foam core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hobby cutters may work but require more than one pass. CNC routers will definitely work (maker space possibly) and if one equips a CNC router with a drag knife, you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2020-07-04T17:51:52.677" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T17:51:52.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8303" CreationDate="2020-07-05T03:10:54.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're gonna need a bigger boat! .. I mean knife ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest would be to have a blade manufactured (or 3d printed if that gets sharp enough edges?) that meets your criteria, e.g length. if you order a bigger batch, they might get cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you could try finding a blade from another manufacturer and then build an adapter to fit it to yours. If you post some photos, people could come up with solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9360" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T03:10:54.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8303" CreationDate="2020-07-05T07:10:12.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hole saw should work fine if you can find a fine tooth model. They are not as easy to find as the common coarse teeth models meant for wood. One with a thin kerf would be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also used the sharpened steel tubing trick mentioned by @fred_dot_u. An alternative to punching is pressing the sharpened tube against the board and spinning it. The spinning action makes it work like a circular knife, cutting the fibers cleanly. If you can't find a 35 mm steel tube, you can get almost as good a result by wrapping thin aluminum from a soda can around a 35 mm thick piece of plastic or wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To align the holes perfectly, it will help to make a template. Cut three holes in a smaller piece of board, align two of them to existing holes on your workpiece and then put your cutting / drilling tool in the third hole to keep it in correct position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6856" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T07:10:12.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8303" CreationDate="2020-07-05T16:29:41.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;circle clicker die&amp;quot; in a &amp;quot;clicker press&amp;quot; will do the job cleanly and efficiently at just a few seconds per hole. Circle clicker dies are available online in many sizes, and a clicker press can be found in any shop that makes leather goods. The shop might even have the exact size clicker die that you need. If you lay out the matte board with appropriate pencil marks where the holes need to be, it should all go smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8865" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T16:29:41.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-07T05:58:30.333" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/629/what-does-it-mean-to-push-your-values&quot;&gt;What does it mean to “push your values”?&lt;/a&gt;. The accepted answer shows that when working with a narrow range of values &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;the image looks hazy as though looking through a fog&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you &amp;quot;push your values&amp;quot; too far; and in what scenarios would you want to intentionally &amp;quot;squeeze your values&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9298" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-12-19T09:10:18.027" LastActivityDate="2022-12-19T09:10:18.027" Title="Is there such a thing as squeezing your values?" Tags="|drawing|painting|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8309" CreationDate="2020-07-07T09:42:48.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a non-native English speaker I'm not too familiar with the expression 'pushing values', but I think the intent goes both ways, that is to say, it doesn't mean pushing them in one direction, but in both (or all) directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pushing one's values too far either way results in a high-contrast image&lt;/strong&gt;, where all values have been replaced by binary values (resulting in a kind of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=poster%20decal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;poster decal art style&lt;/a&gt;), &lt;strong&gt;or is simply not really possible&lt;/strong&gt; (within the use of this expression as a technical criticism), since values can only be stretched to a certain limit and can therefor not go &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; far.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It seems to me this is a matter of semantics, more than it is of art theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'&lt;em&gt;Squeezing one's values&lt;/em&gt;', or rather 'limiting one's values', has a somewhat opposite meaning, and is illustrated well by the left part of the painting in the picture of the accepted answer in the question you linked (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2002/6388&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Limiting the tonal range makes the image look hazy indeed, as the contrast has been limited, and this is exactly what happens when looking at objects through fog, or mist, or smoke, or from a larger distance (see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerial_perspective&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;atmospheric/aerial perspective&lt;/a&gt;), or in the twilight, where the additional effect of diminishing colours can be appreciated even more clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This expression ('squeezing values') deviates slightly from being an exact opposite of the former expression ('pushing values'), in the sense that these values can be 'squeezed' or limited within &lt;em&gt;several&lt;/em&gt; value ranges (it is not a &lt;em&gt;binary&lt;/em&gt; adaptation), e.g. the edited images on the left and right of the centered original below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yeGii.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yeGii.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Euan Uglow | Two Apples (&lt;a href=&quot;https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/two-apples-89231/search/actor:uglow-euan-19322000/page/1/view_as/grid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). Here the Curves tool in Photoshop was used to limit the colour range&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the difference in atmosphere in both edited images is dramatic: the first seems to want to convey a certain gloominess; the second gives the impression the artist wanted to show the intense and warm lighting of a summer's day. (Whereas the original exemplifies Uglow's generally quite neutral palette - although any image naturally would have its most neutral-looking version in between these renditions.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limiting your values like that will usually &lt;strong&gt;let lighting play a more important role&lt;/strong&gt;, but everything will depend on the (intensity of the) colours one chooses: colours can become desaturated when changing their value, but you can also opt to only work with colours within a certain value range to best maintain their saturation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get an idea of what can be achieved with limited value ranges, I suggest looking at the works of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=morandi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giorgio Morandi&lt;/a&gt; specifically, and several &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Symbolism_%28arts%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;symbolist&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=symbolist%20paintings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;painters&lt;/a&gt; (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=pierre%20puvis%20de%20chavannes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pierre Puvis de Chavannes&lt;/a&gt;), some (renaissance) frescoes (esp. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=fresco%20della%20fransesca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pierro della Fransesca&lt;/a&gt;), and maybe &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=hammershoi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vilhelm Hammershoi&lt;/a&gt; for his twilit atmosphere.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Unfortunately, I can't yet think of a good example of an artist working with predominantly dark value ranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-12-12T16:03:52.127" LastActivityDate="2022-12-12T16:03:52.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8313" CreationDate="2020-07-07T16:41:34.097" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to properly clean and oil a borrowed Singer 3002 machine! I have the instruction manual but it only says clean and oil, without much instruction on how to do that. I've been looking for an instructional video online for one of these older singer machines but haven't found one that corresponds with this model or a similar one. If you have any advice on what to use for the cleaning and how to do it, I would be very grateful! Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9365" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T03:56:16.923" Title="Cleaning and oiling a Singer 3002" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8300" CreationDate="2020-07-07T23:04:49.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try a scoring board - the Scor-Pal is a popular brand - available on Amazon. It's a board with grooves on it (and comes with a bone folder). You line up your design along the grooves and it ensures straight score lines every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9366" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T23:04:49.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8311" CreationDate="2020-07-08T13:53:14.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time you don't need a cleaning manual dedicated to the specific machine. What you need is a basic understanding what cleaning and oiling is intended to achieve and what the mechanical parts of the machine have to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sewing machines, especially the older models without electronics, are masterpieces of mechanics. The rotation of one single motor is transferred to the base of the machine and the needle, and additionally translated into different needle positions that create sewing patterns. The top thread is transported into the bobbin case by the needle and must slide smoothly around the bobbin. All these movements should me as smooth and unimpeded as possible for the machine to work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could impede these delicate movements is: lint, dust and old oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean the machine you gradually remove all removable covers and parts to access the mechanical innards. How to do this depends on your individual machine. Keep screws and small parts in a saucer or small bowl so you won't lose any. Open and clean one section after another, then put all removable parts back in and close the cover before opening the next part to not confuse any parts. The main sections to open and clean are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The base, including the bobbin case, feed dog and needle plate itself (most often opened from the side you sit in front of)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sewing arm (most often opened from the top)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The needle holder and mechanics just above it, including the lamp (sometimes opened from the side, sometimes from the top)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the instruction manual contains instructions on how to open the machine. I was unable to find any material explaining how to open and maintain a Singer 3002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleaning itself is simple: Carefully remove all dust and lint using either a soft cloth, dry brush or a gentle vacuum. The cloth can be dry or slightly dampened with clean water. Detergents or other cleaning products are not required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually it's sufficient to wipe oiled parts off to remove the outer layer of oil that caught dust and lint particles. Use the hand wheel to slowly move the parts and wipe any old oil away that you couldn't access before. Then add a drop of fresh oil and you're basically done. You should only use special machine oil or mineral oil for sewing machines, because it stays liquid for a very long time. Organic oils become rancid and viscous over time and are not suited for sewing machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T17:41:16.673" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T17:41:16.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8316" CreationDate="2020-07-08T22:45:20.840" Score="2" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5IqU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5IqU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I am interested in modifying a straight-legged trousers pattern to achieve a more tapered look. I found a good resource for how to taper pants legs that includes tapering on both the outer and inner seam of the leg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/02/tapering-or-widening-pants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/02/tapering-or-widening-pants&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the fabric I am planning to use has prominent vertical stripes and I was wondering if it is possible to taper only on the inner seam so that the outer seam remains straight and cut along the grainline/ parallel to the stripes. This way you don't get intersecting stripes on the outside of the leg, which I think would look better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to do the tapering this way -- along the inner seam only -- or is there some big disadvantage I'm not seeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9372" LastEditorUserId="9372" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T22:51:54.753" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T06:59:01.890" Title="Drafting tapered pants for better outer seam pattern matching?" Tags="|sewing|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8314" CreationDate="2020-07-09T06:59:01.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the fabric is not very stretchy, you'll probably get a bad fit and lots of creases in the hips and crotch area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sewing patterns are designed to best fit a 2-dimensional piece of fabric around a 3-dimensional human body. If you make major changes like that, you'll have to expect that the result doesn't fit the &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; human body anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the pants would act like this:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NJBY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NJBY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They would only fit well as long as you spread your legs. While standing straight, you have too much fabric at the outside seam, especially at the hips. That fabric has nowhere to go, so it starts creasing and bunching up. Since there isn't enough fabric on the inside seam, it pulls and constricts uncomfortably, especially while walking or sitting down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible solution is to taper the pattern on both seams and align the grain with the outer seam. &lt;strong&gt;Be aware that this can also cause creases and pulling.&lt;/strong&gt; It's recommended to keep the grain line as straight down the leg as possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wp80sm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wp80sm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative that works astonishingly well is cutting the pant legs on the bias. This was done for some historical clothing, mainy for the wealthy (because you waste a lot of fabric that way). Woven fabric has some stretch along the bias, so cutting pant legs on the bias allows the fabric to stretch over the knees and the bum when moving and sitting down. Of course this would lead to many intersecting stripes, which actually looks better than just a few intersecting stripes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T06:59:01.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-09T18:10:45.080" Score="4" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started doing some perfect binding tests. I'm using a vinyl glue. Gluing the pages together worked fine so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having some trouble however in binding the cover with the pages. The binding is pretty successful, but because the glue passes through a bit, the paper gets wet again, and the ink printed on the cover dissolves and leaves some stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone give suggestions on how to mix up the vinyl glue or tell me if there are tricks to prevent the glue dissolving the ink on the other side? Sadly the ink is water-soluble and I can't avoid that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pictures will better show what I'm getting at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k6rgI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k6rgI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cover before being bind with the block of pages&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cover before being bound with the block of pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUNku.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUNku.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;back of the finished bind with stains of melt ink&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back of the finished bind with stains of dissolved ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRbny.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRbny.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stains and wrinkles appears on the cover of this small book&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stains and wrinkles appears on the cover of this small book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIuWJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIuWJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up of the final bind with the pages and cover&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close up of the final bind with the pages and cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8567" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-12T07:36:24.250" LastActivityDate="2020-07-12T07:36:24.250" Title="Bind a back with its pages without stains" Tags="|adhesives|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8317" CreationDate="2020-07-10T06:43:34.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely, the stains appear because the glue diffuses into the paper - the paper being porous, or the glue too strong / dissolving. Try a different paper / glue combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the wrinkles: I guess that you make the binding manually - as in using the bare hands, without any kind of presses, clamps, etc. Use the proper tools, practice using those tools until you understand all their secrets, and then go ahead doing the beautiful work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T06:43:34.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8195" CreationDate="2020-07-10T07:29:54.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a painter in any sense of the word. Using a search engine, I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cassart.co.uk/blog/how-to-oil-painting-mediums.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this site&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. While not being exhaustive, it explains some of the information interesting to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REFINED LINSEED OIL&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the most popular form of oil medium. It &lt;strong&gt;slows down the drying time of the paint&lt;/strong&gt;, and when painting in layers, this can be very useful. Apply the ‘slow over fast rule’ – paint your fast-drying layers first, and then each layer on top should take longer to dry than the previous one. You can therefore apply more of this medium with each layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;[brand name]&lt;/em&gt; Refined Linseed Oil &lt;strong&gt;increases gloss and transparency&lt;/strong&gt; as well as &lt;strong&gt;smoothing the consistency of oil paint&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a Cold Press Linseed Oil by &lt;em&gt;[brand name]&lt;/em&gt;, which is a high quality oil often used when grinding pigments, to create oil paint at a professional level. It &lt;strong&gt;dries more slowly&lt;/strong&gt; than Refined Linseed Oil, taking &lt;strong&gt;up for four days&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;has a shinier and harder finish&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other information can be found using search engines. If you want to actually improve your painting skills, you might want to attend some classes led by a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T07:29:54.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-12T22:25:30.617" Score="-4" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy or have such a machine built, but the teeth must be steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Shredding Hard and Soft Things with Plastic Crushing Machine][1]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/z1-wj7Go8R0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/z1-wj7Go8R0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9388" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T20:16:03.283" Title="Are the teeth of this machine iron or steel?" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-07-19T08:46:20.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8320" CreationDate="2020-07-13T00:10:24.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find plans for making various shredding machines by using the terms &amp;quot;metal shredding machine plans&amp;quot; which will also present a number of plans for similar machines for shredding plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference would be the thickness of the shredding wheels and especially the shape of the teeth and the power of the motor. There were too many returns from my search to present a list in this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the plans are likely to provide resources for having the shredding wheels created. There are a number of online resources which require that you send a drawing in approved form and specifications for the material. For an appropriate cost, you will receive the item from that drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live near an industrial area, you may be able to locate someone with a waterjet cutter or a plasma jet cutter who can create the wheels, but the drawing will still be required. It's likely that accurate holes are to be drilled into the center of the wheel, something you cannot expect to receive from a waterjet or plasma jet service. The online service will have the ability to provide accurate and precise hole drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T00:10:24.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8320" CreationDate="2020-07-13T05:58:55.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word &amp;quot;iron&amp;quot; (referring to the material / substance) has two meanings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;literally: the pure substance, found in Mendeleev's table as Fe;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;colloquially: (almost) any alloy that contains mostly iron.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, everything that is called &amp;quot;iron&amp;quot; is either some steel, or some cast iron. I am not a specialist, so I cannot provide too many details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the teeth of this machine iron or steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you ask, the only answer can be: it is steel. It cannot be cast iron, because it is brittle. Special steels, on other hand, can be very tough and do that kind of job without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T05:58:55.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8320" CreationDate="2020-07-13T20:16:03.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are hardened tool steel ; per @ virolino , essentially nothing today is &amp;quot;iron&amp;quot; although many things are made of various cast irons.There are 50 different tool steel that could be used depending on what is shredded and the expected life . The practical answer is ; whatever the manufacturer uses. If you had two manufacturers offering two different alloys , that is a different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T20:16:03.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-15T09:42:40.657" Score="6" ViewCount="937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a file guide using 2 steel blocks that I want to connect using bolts, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUvou.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUvou.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom block will receive 2/4 (still experimenting what works best) 5mm holes that I'll tap with an M6 tap. The top block will get 6mm holes so the bolt can move freely and lock using the bolt's tension against the upper face. In order to make the file guide work, obviously the bolts need to align in order to be able to connect them, but the two front faces need to be exactly aligned as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've drilled a few test pieces, using my drill press. I marked out the top of one piece and put it in my vice. I put the piece in the vice aligned on the left side using my combination square. Drilled the first 5mm hole, swapped out the pieces and drill bit, drilled the 6mm hole using the same combination square alignment. Keeping the vice fixed, I drilled the second 5mm hole, swapped out pieces, drilled the 6mm hole. My assumption was that since I kept the fixed jaw of my vice fixed in relation to the spindle, and I aligned the pieces from the same side both times, I would get perfect-ish alignment. The result was that the spacing between the holes was good, but the front edge was off on one side by about 1mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I can try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick both pieces together and drill a pilot hole through both, then proceed as above aligning on the pilot hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark out both pieces accurately as possible, and align the drill on the markings using a center finder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Centerdrill all holes to prevent drift.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill both holes at the same time at 6mm, use a nut instead of threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proceed as before, file/sand the fronts flat and even afterwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cry as everything goes out of alignment after hardening anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas/tips on how I can align these two pieces accurately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9394" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-18T08:53:18.590" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T00:26:45.663" Title="Align concentric holes of different sizes in 2 pieces of metal on drill press" Tags="|metalworking|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8324" CreationDate="2020-07-15T11:56:01.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working with my very basic press, I'd clamp the two pieces together very well, and drill all the pilot holes. Then separate the pieces and open out the clearance holes. I wouldn't go straight in with a 6mm drill in steel anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you'll need a little over 6mm for a clearance hole. 6.5mm is common though might be too loose for you. In thin aluminium you might get away with drilling to 6 and forcing the bolt in, but probably not in steel, unless your drill chatters and makes an oversize hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When opening out the clearance hole, allow the drill to self centre, i.e. don't clamp it down hard before you start drilling (assuming you're using a normal drill bit and not an end mill). This is where a heavy machine vice or toolmaker's vice is really useful, as a roughly aligned work piece can move a little as the conical tip finds the hole. You can then clamp down the vice if you feel the need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2020-07-15T20:29:01.950" LastActivityDate="2020-07-15T20:29:01.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11021" CreationDate="2020-07-15T23:29:13.927" Score="7" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some convex glass silhouette paintings from the Benton Glass Company from the 30s or 40s. They came with metal frames, each bent from a single piece of metal with a hook on one end and a hole in the other for it to hook into. One of the frames broke, and I can't find any information about this style of frame. The best resource I've found about the paintings so far is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.glassencyclopedia.com/silhouettesonglass.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.glassencyclopedia.com/silhouettesonglass.html&lt;/a&gt;, but it only refers to the frames as &amp;quot;thin metal frames&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took this picture of one of the intact frames, opened so you can kind of see the hook closure.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8uzGS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this picture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9398" LastActivityDate="2022-04-12T09:54:09.370" Title="What is this style of picture frame called?" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8328" CreationDate="2020-07-18T17:58:07.430" Score="4" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to use a pattern for a bag, courtesy of a friend. The pattern instructs me to “cut two rectangles, 14 by 16 inches from main fabric”. I have sewn for a while now, but never without a pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried using a yardstick to mark the lines on the fabric, but it kept being inaccurate and changing the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I accurately cut a rectangular shape from fabric without a pattern to trace?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9265" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T13:08:30.410" Title="How do you accurately mark fabric without a pattern?" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8327" CreationDate="2020-07-18T18:54:01.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is always the option of making a pattern - i.e. an appropriately sized piece of paper. Then you can use it as you are accustomed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rectangular patterns, remember that when you fold an edge onto itself, the resulting crease line will be perpendicular to the edge. This helps a lot when constructing a rectangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if your fabric is sturdy and not prone to distort, arm yourself with an iron and start ironing, folding, and ironing, etc., always measuring your distances. If however your fabric won’t necessarily hold its shape, I recommend the homemade paper pattern route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2020-07-18T18:54:01.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8327" CreationDate="2020-07-19T13:08:30.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tools of the trade&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KtPRs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KtPRs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cutting mat, acrylic ruler, rotary cutter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want accuracy and will make this many times in the future these are the tools to invest in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting mat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acrylic ruler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotary cutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will need to make other shapes, quilters use plastic sheets to create templates - the little triangle is one I made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T13:08:30.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-21T03:44:14.797" Score="3" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a sketch using graphite and charcoal pencils in low-light. When I looked at the sketch under &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt; lighting, it was very shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I retroactively make a graphite sketch less shiny?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRRVV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9412" LastEditorUserId="9412" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T03:25:15.840" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T20:30:35.700" Title="How to retroactively remove the shiny effect of graphite pencils?" Tags="|sketching|pencil-shading|graphite|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-09-06T10:17:15.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-21T05:46:23.327" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had been working on a huge painting made on about 15 separate sheets. After the work was finished I glued together all the paintings, but now after the paint has dried I find that the paper is kind of moist and it tears, curls, and folds very easily.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I want to add a support or something that will keep them safe.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sDmFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9412" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-21T08:12:06.613" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T16:41:17.197" Title="Add support to large collage to prevent warping and tearing" Tags="|material-selection|paper|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4186" CreationDate="2020-07-21T05:55:12.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use graphite, then you have the properties of graphite: it conducts electricity and it shines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it less shiny after using it, you most likely need to apply a layer of something which washes away (partially) the shine, but still leaves the drawing visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try some of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;special plastic sheet, used instead of glass, to protect the front of the paintings; it was especially designed for the purpose to minimize reflections;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply a layer of fluid, which will cure into a non-glossy solid; e.g. hair spray, special fixating spray for graphite / charcoal / crayon drawings; &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8195/confused-about-varieties-of-linseed-oil&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;linseed oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (or any other oils for painting)...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: before you apply anything on the original drawing, make a test on a separate piece of paper, on which you draw some shape. In that way you do not destroy the important art, trying to improve it (see below a sample of what I mean).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be warned: I am not an artist and I did not try any of this myself (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LE7pJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LE7pJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T05:55:12.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8332" CreationDate="2020-07-21T06:18:46.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paper has the habit of becoming wavy when wet with water (other liquids too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first thing you might want to try is ti use a non-watery glue, but still suitable for paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the next projects, you might want to investigate about the types of paper available, to choose one more suitable for what you intend to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During curing, make sure to apply pressure to the area with the glue - on a flat surface, of course. Worst case, turn a kitchen table up-side-down, place it over the collage, and then add some serious weight over (now inside) it. The floor has to be flat also, or use another table as a support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another hint: use a non-stretchable support for the collage, e.g. glass-fiber mesh. You can even build a sandwich: cardboard + glass-fiber mesh + collage (for some added strength).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ZsZI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ZsZI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T06:18:46.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8332" CreationDate="2020-07-21T20:11:01.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For your current painting assemblage there is very little you can do&lt;/strong&gt;. The paints will have warped the paper, and the glue might have done the same.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can glue the piece unto hardboard or another rigid surface (using, like virolino mentioned, a non-aqueous glue, such as glue-sticks, like Pritt's - be careful not to get too close to the paints, though, or they might leak), or frame it behind glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For your next project, I suggest using stronger paper&lt;/strong&gt;, intended for use with paints, &lt;strong&gt;and taping it to a rigid surface using aquarel tape&lt;/strong&gt; (a.k.a. water-activated paper tape - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9c6OWKyYNKI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a video explaining the procedure, although I'd like to add that it's best to wait a little with applying the tape after wetting it; it will first shrink, and then loosen up again, and that moment is the right moment to apply it).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After it has dried, you can remove the tape or cut out the paper, and it will be completely flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-10-27T16:41:17.197" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T16:41:17.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8336" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-07-21T23:35:48.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please be sure to &lt;strong&gt;provide images&lt;/strong&gt;, a detailed description or list of &lt;strong&gt;the characteristics you are specifically interested in or that stand out for you&lt;/strong&gt;, and preferably &lt;strong&gt;the reason you are asking this on our site for physical arts and crafts projects&lt;/strong&gt;, so answerers can formulate more specific answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Style in this context can be defined as a distinctive, recognizable manner in which an artifact has been made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;em&gt;style is different than technique&lt;/em&gt;, even though they can be suggestive of each other: style is a personal artistic touch that is independent of the medium, while technique is the direct consequence of the medium used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When used for &lt;strong&gt;A.I.-generated images&lt;/strong&gt;, please provide the description or source image(s) used! Preferably you also tell about the process of the creation, and possibly the selection.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Note that the other requirement—&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a detailed description or list of the characteristics you are specifically interested in or that stand out for you&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;—is still valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-identification&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-technique-identification-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;technique-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/illustration&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;illustration&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;illustration&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-illustration-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;illustration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-painting-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sculpture&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpture&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpture&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-sculpture-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;sculpture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ai&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ai&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ai&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-ai-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;ai&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-20T00:02:01.987" LastActivityDate="2023-11-20T00:02:01.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8337" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-07-21T23:35:48.493" Score="0" Body="When trying to find the correct name, terminology, or description for a certain art or design style. &#xD;&#xA;Use in combination with the appropriate medium tag (e.g. [illustration], [sculpting], [ai]). &#xD;&#xA;Please go through the usage guidance for a definition and details.&#xD;&#xA;Please also provide images, and preferably a detailed description or list of the characteristics you are specifically interested in or that stand out for you." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-04-19T10:52:48.580" LastActivityDate="2023-04-19T10:52:48.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8338" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-07-22T00:06:44.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ceramics&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ceramics&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ceramics&lt;/a&gt; - specifically used for the treatment of clay (or similar materials) by firing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T14:35:16.460" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T14:35:16.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8339" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-07-22T00:06:44.070" Score="0" Body="The use, handling, storage, properties, drying, or selection of clay. Use the ceramics tag if your question is about the treatment of clay by firing. Both tags can be used together, if yours is an overlapping question." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T14:35:41.843" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T14:35:41.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4186" CreationDate="2020-07-22T08:52:44.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually I doubt that there's a way to do that. Every drawing medium has its own traits and one of graphite is to be shiny. (To be honest, I like that a lot about graphite, so it's not a bad thing). Because of the different shininess I simply wouldn't use charcoal and graphite together in one picture. Using 7B instead of charcoal will give the drawing an even shiny effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try adding a layer of matt varnish (a spray one). It will make the overall picture matt, though I'm not sure if it works with graphite's shininess. Also your paper shouldn't be too thin or it will become wavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the future you could try switching completely to charcoal. You are able to create similar drawings as the one you drew but charcoal is not shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9417" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T08:52:44.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4170" CreationDate="2020-07-23T08:05:35.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The subject matter has a dreamlike hybridity, as it always seems to conflate two visually or associatively related but causally illogical or impossible, unlikely, and mostly absurd, objects. In that sense &lt;strong&gt;it can be described as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dream_art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dream art&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surrealism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;surrealism&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, although both are quite broad terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cartoon-like art style directly reminds me of that of the animated TV series &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=archer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Archer&lt;/a&gt;, which art style is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archer_%282009_TV_series%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;described&lt;/a&gt; as &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;mid-century comic art&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, although in both cases &lt;strong&gt;the shading is a more modern, digital-age, toon shading&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-07-23T08:05:35.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-24T11:09:32.903" Score="3" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;More context: I’ll stick the tape on the back, then the paper (lignin-free, acid-free cellulose, 120gsm) is painted on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9427" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-24T12:27:12.673" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T12:27:12.673" Title="Will (acid-free) paper turn yellow over time if I use tape (not acid-free) on it?" Tags="|material-selection|paper|preservation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-08-06T14:58:16.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-24T14:52:49.787" Score="2" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a waterproof paint (preferably a spray) to draw on my rubber diving fins. It can't be petroleum based as it reacts with rubber. Most divers use permanent markers, but my art skills are very low so I want something to spray or paint on stencil template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9428" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T20:16:20.220" Title="Waterproof paint for rubber" Tags="|paint|rubber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4186" CreationDate="2020-07-24T19:02:51.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vertruvian Fine Art Studio, an online drawing and painting school has a very good answer to your question, provided by instructor David Jamieson.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The shininess is &amp;quot;burnishing&amp;quot; which happens when an area is worked too much or you press too hard.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;He says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;In my experience, there are only 3 ways to prevent your pencil drawings from becoming burnished:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Limit the amount of graphite on the page.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Limit how hard you press with the pencil.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Limit how many times you rework an area.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More detail on these is provided in &lt;a href=&quot;https://vitruvianstudio.com/3-ways-to-reduce-graphite-shine-in-your-drawings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9429" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-24T20:30:35.700" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T20:30:35.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8349" CreationDate="2020-07-25T07:57:52.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need something that's highly durable and flexible, but won't decrease the performance of your fins too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems you're best off with &lt;strong&gt;a rubber(izing) paint or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.coating.co.uk/rubber-coating/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rubber coating&lt;/a&gt;/liquid rubber&lt;/strong&gt;, which is &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;heat, chemical, weather, and impact resistant, as well as being flexible&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. Last but not least, according to the linked page, since they are &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;water based and VOC free, these products will not harm you or the water table&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;They are a little hard to find as coloured paints, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to test your coating or paint on (similar) rubber before applying it to your fins, and to clean the fins (using water and soap) for improved adherence (I suppose sanding the rubber is out of the question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scubaboard.com/community/threads/painting-your-fins.71277/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;em&gt;scubaboard.com&lt;/em&gt;, as it has a few good tips and alternative approaches, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28219-painting-rubber/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;em&gt;whitearmor.net&lt;/em&gt; (a site aimed at stormtrooper cosplay enthousiasts), where they talk about painting rubber boots.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Looking into cosplay forums can generally provide good alternative ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest using your favourite search engine to look for a proper product if the ones mentioned on the linked websites or in the linked threads aren't to your liking.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A good candidate might be &lt;a href=&quot;https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plasti-Dip&lt;/a&gt;, as it is available in multiple colours, but I'm not sure if the peelable nature of it means it will slowly peel off of its own accord. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.krylon.com/products/fusion-allinone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fusion All-in-one&lt;/a&gt; from Krylon also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scubaboard.com/community/threads/painting-your-fins.71277/page-3#post-1174114&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seems to work&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatively, you can use stencils&lt;/strong&gt; to decorate your fins using the permanent markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-11T20:16:20.220" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T20:16:20.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8303" CreationDate="2020-07-26T03:46:35.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several years ago I had my own &amp;quot;mount these coins&amp;quot; project.  My solution was to use a forstner drill bit mounted in a drill press. In my case I was mounting dimes in matte board and they squeezed into the holes very nicely.  It sounds like you are mounting US fifty cent pieces which are slightly larger than the 30mm that you mentioned, but should be able to nicely squeeze-mounted in 30 mm holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you Google &amp;quot;50 mm forstner bit&amp;quot; you will find several choices ranging in price from $9 to $25.  If you are going to drill only 200 holes in matte board, a less expensive bit will certainly be adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to carefully mark the locations of the centers of the holes and I would push an awl through the matte board to help make certain that the tip of bit goes to the exact center of the hole.  As with any first time project, it would be wise to make several practice holes so that you certain that you can get each hole started exactly where you want it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to set the speed on the drill press to approximately the middle speed on the drill press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you do not have access to drill press (any woodworking pals?) all bets are off.  I would not try this method with a hand held power drill because the quality and consistency of the holes is quite likely to suffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T03:46:35.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8357" CreationDate="2020-07-26T14:32:31.657" Score="5" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of its dry nature, it cannot be recommended for use in any pen that is also considered 'dry' as the rate of ink-flow is likely to be too low; that is its only practical restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B001TBM2XC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PELIKAN ink bottle review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are they talking about when they say dry pen and dry ink?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;What kind of pens are dry pens? Are there wet pens and wet inks too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please give examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I verify before purchasing that the ink and pen are dry or wet?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2020-07-27T14:27:31.793" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T14:27:31.793" Title="What are dry inks and dry pens?" Tags="|ink|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8373" CreationDate="2020-07-26T14:52:49.197" Score="3" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B001TBM2XC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dry ink&lt;/a&gt; and I have a fountain pen and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0108IPDAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pilot V7&lt;/a&gt; pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to use the dry ink in the above-mentioned pens. I will refill the cartridge of the Pilot pen with this ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What precautions am I supposed to take in order to make things easier w.r.t this ink and these pens considering that they are dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-07-26T19:41:59.007" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T18:03:32.297" Title="How to maintain dry ink in a fountain pen and Pilot V7 pens?" Tags="|ink|pens|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8355" CreationDate="2020-07-26T19:02:14.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;'Dry' and 'wet' refer to the flow of the ink.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regarding inks, the terms 'dry' and 'wet' give a relative idea of the viscosity of the ink&lt;/strong&gt;: wet inks flow more freely, whereas dry inks have more friction. The difference, usually caused by the amount of lubricant (depending on the amount and quality of the dye used), can be very subtle, and hard to spot, but you can feel it quite easily in your fingers, as wet inks give a smoother glide to your pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet inks, as the name implies, will stay wet for longer, whereas dry inks dry much quicker. Among other differences, dry inks allow for an improved application of details, as it is cleaner and finer. Wet inks will feather more. And if you happen to be a left-handed person, it will also facilitate sinistrodextral (left-to-right) writing, or vice versa, as the ink will likely smudge less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calling a pen 'wet' or 'dry' gives a relative idea of the transfer of ink&lt;/strong&gt;. The nib is the crucial element here: wet pens will allow for the ink to flow copiously through their nibs, whereas dry pens have nibs that deposit ink less freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this binary attribution - dry/wet - of what is essentially a range of fluidity is not particularly accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is now probably clearer why it is not recommended to use dry ink in a dry pen: both traits will counter each other, or, indeed, &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;the rate of ink-flow is likely to be too low&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T19:02:14.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2557" CreationDate="2020-07-26T19:05:49.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could imitate that effect without weaving. Start with a similar-colored base fabric, lay the yarns across it in strips, and sew them down. You might need to lay a strip of tissue paper across the yarns, so they don't get caught in your sewing machine. It won't be as close an imitation as weaving it yourself, but much easier and you already have the equipment and skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an easy version, only add the puffy strands. Let the base fabric show through between the puffy strands. For a closer imitation, add medium-weight strands between the puffy strands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the puffy strands, use wool roving or wool roving yarn (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.joann.com/patons-classic-wool-roving-yarn/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yarn.com/products/knitting-fever-big-freakin-wool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the medium-weight strands, look for a novelty yarn, t-shirt yarn, chunky-weight chenille yarn (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yarn.com/products/james-c-brett-flutterby-chunky&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;) or chunky-weight single-ply yarn (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yarn.com/products/hikoo-zumie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yarn.com/products/berroco-macro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T19:05:49.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8361" CreationDate="2020-07-27T13:32:21.500" Score="4" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/NOZOMI-Kokuyo-Camlin-Bottle-BLACK/dp/B07ZHG95D8/ref=sr_1_32?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;c=ts&amp;amp;dchild=1&amp;amp;keywords=Bottled%20Ink&amp;amp;qid=1595856356&amp;amp;sr=8-32&amp;amp;ts_id=3591274031&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Camlin ink&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are inks based on something else also? Why have they specified that their ink is dye based? What does dye based mean anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other bases for ink are there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2022-07-25T12:02:23.140" Title="What is a dye based ink?" Tags="|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8360" CreationDate="2020-07-27T14:26:25.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inks are largely divided into two categories: dye-based and pigment-based.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Additionally, there is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Invisible_ink&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;invisible ink&lt;/a&gt;, which usually consists of a variety of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Invisible_ink#Invisible_ink_types&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;other ingredients&lt;/a&gt; that need to undergo a chemical reaction in order to become visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dye is a soluble colourant, which means a dye-based ink is a solution, whereas pigments are colourants that consist of small particles, making pigment-based inks chemical suspensions (see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/2300/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why the difference is important, is because both have different characteristics.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Without going into the chemical differences too much, the benefits of &lt;strong&gt;dye-based inks&lt;/strong&gt; include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beautiful color quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to spread and paint with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Affordable and easy to find&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adheres to almost any surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the disadvantages are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tendency to fade out fast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lack of resistance to external factors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More prone to bleeding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;pigment-based inks&lt;/strong&gt;, the benefits are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resistant to most exterior factors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can last for decades in paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't fade out over time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry and adhere fast to surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color can be a bit dull&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pretty expensive &amp;amp; difficult to find&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Lists mostly copied verbatim from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printtopeer.com/dye-vs-pigment-ink/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T14:26:25.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3117" CreationDate="2020-07-28T00:26:38.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic is better by a mile for ease of learning.  It is very forgiving as it only requires water to dilute.  Plus it is versatile as it can do anything that other paints can do; it can be used thickly to replicate oil paint, it can be diluted to be used like watercolor and it can be used for matte color like gouache.  It dries quickly too and can be painted over without disturbing the paint underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not worked with oils so I can't personally judge them.  However, they have many disadvantages in spite of their popularity with fine artists.  They take forever to dry, oils need to be diluted with smelly thinners such as turpentine and any surfaces (paper, canvas, wood, etc) need to be properly primed before painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to discourage you from using oils but if you're a beginning painter, stick to acrylics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9439" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T00:26:38.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2020-07-28T00:32:37.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a thick type of paper.  Ordinary bond paper is a bad idea as the markers will bleed through to the surface below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some art stores sell paper billed as &amp;quot;marker paper&amp;quot;.  I haven't used them myself but can vouch for bristol paper; I use this to draw my comics and they can absorb markers well.  Illustration board is another good choice though it can be pricey.  Smoother watercolor papers are another option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, this is one of my color comic strips; I used markers on watercolor paper - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.poisonivygulch.com/comic/poison-ivy-gulch-7-12-2020/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.poisonivygulch.com/comic/poison-ivy-gulch-7-12-2020/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9439" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T00:32:37.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8291" CreationDate="2020-07-28T00:37:13.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter the size of the photo.  It depends on how you use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo references are handy but copying it too closely may actually work against you.  The drawing may look stiff, bizarre or even incorrect.  You also may run into ethical or even legal issues for copying a photo (of any size) too closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, use the photos wisely, no matter what size they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9439" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T00:37:13.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-28T00:48:02.033" Score="3" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at liquid watercolors like the Hydrus line from Dr. Martin.  They have gotten rave reviews in magazines and websites but I need some personal feedback on liquid watercolors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they any good?  What are their advantages?  Disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:32:14.880" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:32:14.880" Title="Are liquid watercolors better than tube or pan watercolors?" Tags="|paint|watercolor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-07-30T19:26:29.893" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-28T14:21:28.453" Score="24" ViewCount="4891" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time trying to make a costume out of anything other than cardboard and sheets. I wanted to make Greek armour out of real leather but my mum said that real leather is very expensive and very hard to work with. So I started searching for alternative materials. The problem is I can’t find a material with thickness and sturdiness similar to real leather. I’m only thirteen years old so I have a very limited budget. My dad says I should go with fiberglass but I’m very worried that it’ll be too stiff to bend over in. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9441" LastEditorUserId="9447" LastEditDate="2020-07-30T12:38:25.400" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T15:26:00.953" Title="I need an alternative to leather" Tags="|leather|costume-design|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2020-07-28T16:08:05.570" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're looking for is EVA Craft Foam sheets; these are the typical choice for costumers who want to create leather or metal-look pieces without using leather or metal. They're widely available from most craft stores, typically in the &amp;quot;kid craft&amp;quot; sections under brand names like &amp;quot;Foamies;&amp;quot; lately, more deluxe versions are also available in some stores in the newly-forming &amp;quot;cosplay&amp;quot; sections, often under the &amp;quot;YaYa Han&amp;quot; brand. The sheets are sufficiently thick to replicate leather, but soft and flexible enough to cut with regular household scissors (as opposed to using knives and leather shears). EVA foam won't be as durable as leather, but with care should hold up well, and there are a lot of tutorials available for crafting costume armor pieces using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely don't want to do fiberglass; it's very difficult and hazardous to work with, and gets very heavy very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T16:08:05.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2020-07-29T01:07:55.910" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia suggests (and I remembered it from school) that a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoplite#Body_armour&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hoplite armour&lt;/a&gt; was made from &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linothorax&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;linothorax&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, a composite made from layers of cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for this you could use actual cloth (old sheets?), or perhaps felt, glued together with a non-toxic wood glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the more &amp;quot;affordable&amp;quot; end, you could also try paper mâché mould of yourself.  Or perhaps for the heavy-weight feel of bronze, make a breast-plate with plaster bandage.  A combination of both might work well - a light substrate of plaster bandage, but then covered with a layer of cloth or paper mâché - to cover all the bandage-ness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it depends if you're after a &amp;quot;Looking Cool&amp;quot; costume, or a more &amp;quot;Rough and Tumble&amp;quot; version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO I don't think you want fibreglass, the resin and hardners are not nice to work with.  And when it breaks, it makes for some nasty edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9447" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T01:07:55.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2020-07-29T08:14:39.617" Score="-3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Metal or fibreglass lamellar.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be a bit above your current skill level, but you might consider making a suit of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lamellar_armour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lamellar armor&lt;/a&gt; if you don't want to make a solid breastplate. This is a form of armor that consists of a large number of small plates made from a rigid material with holes punched or drilled in them, which are then laced together with some form of cloth string. This grants protection that is nearly as good as a solid metal plate, but with more flexibility and range of motion. The Wikipedia page has a pattern for one style of lamellar. A similar armor known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brigandine&lt;/a&gt; was popular in the medieval period, which consist of overlapping plates of metal that are riveted to the inside of a heavy piece of cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that both of these types of armor would likely have been worn over some form of cloth padding for impact resistance, similar to how modern football gear has padding underneath the plates; this would likely take the form of the padded longcoat or jacket known as the gambeson or aketon. Depending on how authentic you want your piece to be, you might buy or make a genuine reproduction, or just substitute it for a modern-day padded parka coat or jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example of what these armors might look like in real life, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzhAhRZzCrA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a Youtube video by a history-focused Youtuber discussing their new suit of brigandine armor, along with its historical use and its functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8169" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T08:14:39.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2020-07-29T08:54:01.830" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;While working with leather can be difficult, it's a skill you can learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New, pristine leather is indeed costly, but go try going through local flea markets / second hand shops. It's likely you can find slightly worn out leather jackets or bags that you can reuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also find synthetic leather (which is made out of fabric coated with plastic). It's usually a bit softer and easier to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6856" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T08:54:01.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2020-07-29T10:30:09.613" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A material made specifically to imitate real leather, with similar properties but for a much more affordable price is '&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artificial_leather&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;faux leather&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;' (a.k.a. artificial or synthetic leather).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It is still pretty pricey, but probably the closest you can get to a real leather look without having to use actual leather. It's also a lot easier to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the other suggestions here, it's a sturdy material, and might not be easily handled by normal sewing machines, but by hand it's quite easy to manipulate, and it comes in different thicknesses, so you should be able to find the right pliability/realism ratio.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or you can even use a thinner kind to cover elements made out of cardboard or any of the materials mentioned in the other answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A disadvantage is that it's (usually) not porous, so it's not the healthiest material to cover your body with, but Greek armour is naturally quite breathable - which is logical considering the Greek climate - and usually consisted of separate elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T10:30:09.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8356" CreationDate="2020-07-29T18:03:32.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fountain pens and metal-tipped technical pens rely on capillary action and flow limiters to deliver a controlled amount of ink.  They're manufactured to precise tolerances, and there isn't really any form of adjustment.  If the pen is clean and the ink is fresh, and the ink is in the general range of viscosity the pen is designed to handle, it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of the pen and a third party ink should deliver an ink line, although the characteristics of the line may not match what you want or what the pen manufacturer's ink produces.  For example, a lower viscosity ink may result in more ink being delivered, so the line will be wider and contain more liquid; it may take longer to dry, resulting in more spread and a less-well-defined edge unless the ink is much faster drying.  A higher viscosity ink may result in a thinner line.  In extreme cases, the pen may have trouble keeping up if you move the pen too quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pen will have prescribed maintenance, which is basically cleaning.  There isn't any different maintenance for third party inks, it may just require doing it more often.  If the third party ink is faster drying or higher viscosity, it will more quickly thicken inside the pen and dry in the nib or tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want to use a &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot; ink in a pen designed for a &amp;quot;wet&amp;quot; ink, you will have the least problems if you use the pen regularly.  That will keep ink moving through the nib or tip to keep it free of dried ink.  It will also result in using up the ink inside the pen before it thickens.  If you want to use that pen-ink combination only occasionally, you would be better off emptying the pen and cleaning it before putting it away (unused ink can be returned to the original bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T18:03:32.297" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-30T21:11:41.377" Score="2" ViewCount="943" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long will a document (black text) printed on standard paper using an inkjet printer last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will keep it in an envelope in a normal house hold environment, not overly hot or cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for tips on how to increase preservation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9457" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T08:41:48.113" Title="Printed document lifespan" Tags="|paper|preservation|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8374" CreationDate="2020-07-31T08:41:48.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I will interpret the question as you wanting to know how long it takes until a black ink inkjet print noticeably fades.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many artworks involving colourants, &lt;strong&gt;keeping prints flat in a dark, cool, (atmospherically) stable and pure, and dry place&lt;/strong&gt; will preserve them for the longest period of time.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure the envelope you're using is made of acid-free paper&lt;/strong&gt;, as acid can break down the chemical compounds of both the paper.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Similarly, &lt;strong&gt;use gloves when handling the print&lt;/strong&gt; to avoid transferring acids and other contaminants to the print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relative humidity should be kept stable somewhere between 30 - 40%, the temperature around around 0° Celsius (32° Fahrenheit) ideally, or between 18 en 21° Celsius (65 to 70° Fahrenheit) when stored in your house, and the air free of pollution (&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;sulfur dioxide, nitrogen dioxide, ozone, peroxides, and formaldehyde&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;). &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nedcc.org/free-resources/preservation-leaflets/5.-photographs/5.4-creating-long-lasting-inkjet-prints&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kept like this, based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shutterbug.com/content/how-long-will-your-digital-prints-lastbryou-may-be-surprised-page-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; and the values in the adjacent table, &lt;strong&gt;your print could remain visually unchanged for over a century&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xErsr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xErsrm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;click image for larger version | &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shutterbug.com/content/how-long-will-your-digital-prints-lastbryou-may-be-surprised-page-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as for the larger question here, apart from the environmental conditions, the longevity of prints is determined by a range of options that need to be selected carefully for the intended purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you know this already, as you mention the type of paper, but &lt;strong&gt;both the ink and the paper used are important for print permanence&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The inkjet ink will be either pigment- or dye-based.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Pigment-based inks last longer&lt;/strong&gt;, since they consist of much larger particles: they are more stable, retain their colours better, and are less sensitive to environmental factors.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For a more detailed comparison see &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8361/6388&quot;&gt;this related answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The paper used is important for the bond that the inkjet ink will form.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The paper should be acid-free, too. Coated paper specially intended for inkjet printer prints lets the ink bond better, resulting in improved ink stability.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Inkjet paper, fine arts paper, permanent paper, archival paper (wood pulp/cotton rag), swellable polymer coated papers (for dye-based inks, a coating that encapsulates the ink), and &lt;strong&gt;microporous coated papers&lt;/strong&gt; (for pigment-based inks) have an increasingly longer 'ink-life'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read a more detailed study of the preservation of prints, diving deeper into these particular factors, on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nedcc.org/free-resources/preservation-leaflets/5.-photographs/5.4-creating-long-lasting-inkjet-prints&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; of the NEDCC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though, depending on your printer and settings, the black ink might be composed of a variety of colours, &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;'black and white' prints are vastly more stable&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://keithdotson.com/blogs/news/how-long-will-your-photograph-last&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that &lt;strong&gt;different brands, manufacturers, and models of printers have different technologies, inks, and qualities&lt;/strong&gt;. And &lt;strong&gt;your printer settings&lt;/strong&gt; will have an influence, too, if only for the amount of ink used for the print - &lt;strong&gt;even the font you use&lt;/strong&gt; has consequences for the permanence of the print, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.internationalcircle.net/international_circle/circular/issues/14_01/ICJ_07_2014_05_082.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this study&lt;/a&gt; (pdf file) shows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion to be drawn is that it's hard to tell how long the print will last, as there are too many factors involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great general resource on print permanence is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wilhelm-research.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wilhelm Imaging Research website&lt;/a&gt;, full of studies and tests performed to find out the longevity of printed materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T08:41:48.113" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-31T19:40:35.593" Score="4" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a way to make my own watercolour brushes, and Google is most unhelpful in finding the raw materials or advice; it just keeps showing me more brushes that are already made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where to look for synthetic sable as a raw material, or an alternative material that would work, and advice on constructing the brushes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9463" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T20:51:53.543" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T13:24:48.557" Title="What can I use to make watercolour brushes?" Tags="|material-selection|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-07-31T20:55:33.283" Score="4" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered a print-on-demand textbook, and here is what I received:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3krdx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3krdx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cover&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I opened it, this is what I saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pYXRU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pYXRU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Title Page&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two evident problems with this book.  The first, that it’s the wrong book, got taken care of quickly.  They shipped me the correct book pretty quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That left me with an free copy of the Virginian Woolf (with a humorously ill-matched cover).  However, the books still has a second problem.  As you can see from the picture, the binding is coming apart.  The reason for this is that the Virginia Woolf book is slightly shorter than the quantum field theory book.  Laid side by side, the pages of the Woolf are about a millimeter thinner, but they are bound in identical covers (which were obviously sized for the slightly thicker book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t want to replace the funny cover, but I am afraid that the tear between the overleaf and the cover page is going to get worse, and the book will fall apart.  So what is the best approach for repairing this unusual binding, in which the spine of the binding is about a millimeter two large for the pages it contains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="221" LastEditorUserId="221" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T16:14:33.813" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T16:14:33.813" Title="How do I repair the binding of the book where the spine of the cover is too wide?" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2020-07-31T23:38:23.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Real leather is expensive, but it isn't particularly difficult to work with.  Thinner cuts of leather can be sewn the same as most cloth and thicker leather just needs heavy-duty hand sewing (and a punch to make the holes).  It has better dimensional stability (it doesn't bunch or stretch) than fabric, which can be good or bad depending on what you are trying to do.  It is, however, very unforgiving.  A sewing needle through cloth won't, generally speaking, damage or otherwise alter the cloth, but a sewing needle through leather will create a permanent hole; it needs to be in the right place the first time.  You can patch a gash or compensate for an imperfect fit much more easily with cloth than with leather.  Leather also has a non-uniform surface; brands, cuts, scars, and other marks.  I consider myself fairly handy with this sort of stuff, and anything I make out of leather I first make with a less expensive material first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EVA foam is a good approximation for the flexibility of leather for an equivalent thickness.  If you have the opportunity, I recommend looking at real leather before trying to replicate the appearance with something else; it will give you an appreciation for how much it bends, the finish, the texture, etc.  Modern leather clothing is one of the worst examples available; it tends to be a very thin skin of leather over a synthetic material.  There is no substitute for knowing the material you're trying to approximate, but copious amounts of googling and youtube videos are better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you were to use real leather, you would still have a problem.  When you scale down a design for a smaller body, you have to reduce the thickness of the material in addition to the length and height.  Even real leather would require something to help with stability to create an &amp;quot;authentic&amp;quot; appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to try this, I would start with EVA foam.  After cutting the pieces from 3-5mm (1/8in to 1/4in) foam and doing a test fit, I would glue a faux-leather fabric to the surface.  The glue and the fabric should add enough rigidity to compensate for the thinner material.  If this is having trouble holding the shape you want, I would use a fiberglass screen (any screen would do, but fiberglass is what I can get at the local hardware store).  Cut the screen to shape, sew together the seams by hand as needed, and glue the screen to the back of the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common material for costume armor is thermoplastics.  I don't want to mention any brand names, but I feel this one can't be avoided.  There are several brands, but Worbla is the most popular and often videos will mention it by name rather than by the more generic &amp;quot;thermoplastic&amp;quot;.  The thermoplastics I have used are thin, hold shape well, can take a texture, and paint easily.  Thermoplastic over top of EVA foam is a popular technique as both materials need a little help to hold a rigid shape cleanly.  It is, however, not particularly cheap and you need a heat-resistant workspace.  I would probably turn to real leather before trying this, personally, but it is an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9464" LastActivityDate="2020-07-31T23:38:23.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8377" CreationDate="2020-08-01T00:41:34.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a low-budget operation using a one-size-fits-none cover stock, or they got the wrong size covers.  The cover spine is too wide.  As long as it's stiff, it will continue to pull on the page seams.  I would try these two steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The original glue location is visible where it came apart.  Put a narrow bead of glue in the same location (Elmer's Glue should be fine).  If you put down too much, spread it from the original location toward the spine and wipe off any excess (when you press it closed, you don't want glue being squeezed between the cover overlay and the front page).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lightly close the cover and immediately open it again to spread some of the glue to the other side.  If excess glue squeezes onto where you don't want it, wipe that off with a slightly damp rag.  Leave the cover open for a few minutes for the glue to mostly soak into the paper and any wiped areas to dry enough to not be sticky.  Close the book, making sure the cover is aligned as it originally was.  Put a little weight on top, like another heavy book, and let it dry for at least a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Soften and curve the spine so it's flexible.  The spine will try to pull the pages apart if it's stiff and flat.  Between the spine and the covers, there's an indentation front and back.  Put a heavy duty rubber band in that indentation to compress the covers against the pages.  Then open the book in the middle and lay it flat, pages down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spine should jut out in a curve.  If it doesn't, find something rod-shaped that you can push between the spine and the pages to push the spine out into a curve (just big enough to introduce a curve, not so big that it tears the glue joint holding the pages in).  Use your fingers to compress and roll the curve all along the length and from cover to cover to train it into a curved surface instead of a flat one, and to soften it a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then close the book and with the rubber band still on, hold the book spine-down, press it against a surface like a desktop, and roll it from side to side (putting pressure on the front and back corners).  Compress the indented area to make the indentation and the bend between the indentation and the spine more pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These actions will reduce the tension on the pages so the cover doesn't try to pull the pages apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-01T01:11:12.773" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T01:11:12.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2020-08-01T02:04:45.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have both the 1:1 and 2:1 epoxies. One is glue and one is for crafts requiring clear pours. Another is a couple 4 oz containers.  Last year I used about a gallon laminating pieces of acrylic with wood, then turning them on my lathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also used some commercial grade cyanoacrylate glue (a.k.a. Super Glue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both instances, I scuffed the surfaces. For the epoxy, I used to 60 grit (increased from lighter grits used earlier and that had the same problem) because the epoxy fills gaps fine, compared to things like Gorilla glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pieces I turned came out wonderfully, but the joints using the epoxies were nowhere near dependable, but that only showed with time. The cyanoacrylate did better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the finished pieces on which I used epoxy were stored in my garage and came apart in the high heat of summer. A few came apart when the finished item was dropped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I have not tried West systems, but I question whether the joint would do any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am yet looking to other means of joining wood and acrylic, since the pieces I make will be used for things like walking sticks, so could see the high heat of a car on a got summer day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9465" LastEditorUserId="9465" LastEditDate="2020-08-01T02:23:10.480" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T02:23:10.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8381" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-02T21:51:02.880" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T21:51:02.880" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T21:51:02.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8382" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-02T21:51:02.880" Score="0" Body="For questions having to with the act of framing artworks, and the selection, construction, and use of frames, passe-partouts, mattes, and other types of picture framing." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T13:29:58.380" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T13:29:58.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8383" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-02T22:04:40.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/oil-pastels&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;oil-pastels&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;oil-pastels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T13:29:55.027" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T13:29:55.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8384" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-02T22:04:40.957" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use and maintenance of chalk pastels and works made using chalk pastels. You can ask after techniques, corrections, the combination with other materials, preservation, and more." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T13:30:11.293" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T13:30:11.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8385" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-02T22:13:10.543" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-08-02T22:13:10.543" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T22:13:10.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8386" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-02T22:13:10.543" Score="0" Body="For questions about the creation, restoration, maintenance, and customization of toys." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T08:50:23.517" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T08:50:23.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8413" CreationDate="2020-08-03T16:08:34.657" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use multi-colored post-it notes to remind myself things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the task is complete I don't want to tear the notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I covert these post-it notes into a quilt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are examples of quilts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aURud.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aURud.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lQ1aR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lQ1aR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-03T20:28:10.637" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T13:06:55.310" Title="How do I turn old post-it notes into a quilt" Tags="|paper|upcycling|quilting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2020-08-11T20:01:26.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8389" CreationDate="2020-08-04T04:45:26.750" Score="5" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Issue:&lt;/strong&gt; When painting on rough surfaces like concrete, paint has been bleeding through the edges of masking tape (painter's tape). The bleed makes edges of the objects appear fuzzy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Workflow:&lt;/strong&gt; I clean the surface (which already has a base coat of primer/paint). I then use masking tape to create stencil-like outlines of letters, shapes, etc. After that I block in the stencil using a paintbrush with water-based acrylic. Once the paint is dry, I remove the tape (revealing the bleed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; How can I reduce the bleed to make the edges appear sharper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9298" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T07:48:06.440" Title="What techniques can I use to stop paint getting under masking tape?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8388" CreationDate="2020-08-04T07:26:33.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's painters tape designed to seal much better with latex paint (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/stores/FROGTAPE/page/447F863E-F191-4AD4-BFAA-3E8EB0BC3732?ref_=ast_bln&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frogtape&lt;/a&gt;); it has a material that sucks up water and gels on contact so water-based paint can't flow past the edge.  However, it's designed to work with smooth surfaces.  On a rough surface like concrete, high spots keep any kind of tape from making good contact with low spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a clean edge on a rough surface, there are a few things that will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create an edge with a material that will conform to the texture, like rope caulk, also called caulking cord weatherstrip (e.g., Mortite).  It's a removable clay-like cord that can be pressed into place.  Put a straight-edge where you want the paint edge, and press the rope caulk onto the concrete against the straight-edge.  That may be enough, or you can stick some tape onto the rope caulk to protect a width of concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, whatever you use (tape, rope caulk, etc.), it's better to remove it while the paint is still wet but not runny.  At that stage, the mask will pull off cleanly.  If you wait until the paint is dry, you can mess up the integrity or appearance of the paint edge, and it may make it more difficult to remove the masking material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use much thicker paint rather than something watery.  It should be a consistency where a thick application will stay where you put it without running.  Paint used for rough surfaces, like using a stencil to paint symbols on an asphalt roadway, is more like applying paste. That's why it doesn't wick under the edge of the stencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T07:26:33.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8388" CreationDate="2020-08-04T07:48:06.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;After applying the masking tape, first apply another layer of your base coat paint. Any bleeding that might occur from this, will be in the same colour as the wall and thus be invisible and will clog any holes between masking tape and the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second step block in the stencil with your desired colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8081" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T07:48:06.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8422" CreationDate="2020-08-04T08:15:40.833" Score="5" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I watched a couple of videos on YouTube regarding book binding with hot glue: in short, they were presenting that the pages should be put together in a press and then hot glue is applied on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am not confident in this method, because I don't think that simply applying hot glue on the side will keep all the paper sheets in their place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried this method before, but I am looking for suggestions (in case I missed something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best method to bind books using hot glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9481" OwnerDisplayName="Ionică Bizău" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T13:57:22.407" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T19:17:54.707" Title="Book binding with hot glue" Tags="|adhesives|book-binding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8391" CreationDate="2020-08-04T08:54:21.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be one of the methods used to manufacture paperback books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the pages in a paperback have a rough back edge, not a clean cut, this allows more surface for the glue to bond to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some binding machines also use hot glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jasen" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-11T14:20:02.883" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T14:20:02.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8393" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-04T13:55:42.280" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T13:55:42.280" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T13:55:42.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8394" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-04T13:55:42.280" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use of casting epoxies, including selection, handling, molding, and modification. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-08-06T06:58:45.757" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T06:58:45.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-04T14:05:24.193" Score="1" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often see pictures in web where people are drawn with small heads and big bodies. I think, Apple or JetBrains companies use this way of drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a specific style? How is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLRK0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLRK0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9476" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T09:12:29.210" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T09:12:29.210" Title="Style of drawing with small head and big body" Tags="|style-identification|illustration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-08-05T18:35:00.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8396" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-04T14:12:10.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Embroidery is &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, as formulated by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/yarn&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;yarn&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;yarn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/knitting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;knitting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;knitting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/weaving&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;weaving&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;weaving&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fiber-crafts&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fiber-crafts&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fiber-crafts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T08:48:08.987" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T08:48:08.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8397" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-04T14:12:10.873" Score="0" Body="For questions about techniques and tools specific to embroidery, and selecting the right materials. Those questions that apply to embroidery but aren't specific to it may fit better in the [yarn] or [fiber-crafts] tags." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T08:49:59.363" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T08:49:59.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8398" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-04T14:23:09.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/color&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;color&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;color&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T18:24:43.000" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T18:24:43.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8399" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-04T14:23:09.443" Score="0" Body="For questions concerning color theory, that is any methodical approach used to structure the colors. For any practical question, like the process of applying color to works, use the respective medium (e.g. [paint]). For more generic questions about the nature of color, use the [color] tag. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T08:48:28.330" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T08:48:28.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8400" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-04T14:48:21.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bead is &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a small object that is formed in a variety of shapes and sizes of a material such as stone, bone, shell, glass, plastic, wood, or pearl, and with a small hole for threading or stringing&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, as defined by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/stones&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;stones&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;stones&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/embroidery&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;embroidery&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;embroidery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/jewelry&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;jewelry&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;jewelry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T08:50:53.280" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T08:50:53.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8401" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-04T14:48:21.717" Score="0" Body="For questions involving the use, selection, manipulation, and creation of beads." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T08:47:40.153" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T08:47:40.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8402" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-04T18:35:44.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pencil-shading&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pencil-shading&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pencil-shading&lt;/a&gt; - use this tag when your question is explicitly about the  gradation in tonal values using pencils.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/blending-stump&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;blending-stump&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;blending-stump&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mixing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mixing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;mixing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T13:24:45.293" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T13:24:45.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8403" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-04T18:35:44.643" Score="0" Body="For questions concerning blending techniques or any method that allows for gradual transitions between hues, values, and/or color intensities. Always use this tag in combination with the tag for the medium your question is about (e.g. [oil-paint], [colored-pencils)." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T13:27:43.933" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T13:27:43.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8404" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-04T18:58:57.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/lapidary&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;lapidary&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;lapidary&lt;/a&gt; - Use this tag when your question is specifically about cutting, grinding, polishing, or otherwise refining of stones, minerals, or gemstones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/jewelry&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;jewelry&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;jewelry&lt;/a&gt; - Can be used in combination with &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/stones&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;stones&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;stones&lt;/a&gt;. Use only when your question concerns stones intended to be used as jewellery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sculpting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sculpting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T13:28:56.747" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T13:28:56.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8405" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-04T18:58:57.943" Score="0" Body="For questions concerning the use, selection, cleaning, or handling of all kinds of natural stones, including gemstones. For the refining of stones, please use the [lapidary] tag. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T13:28:06.363" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T13:28:06.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8407" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-06T12:18:55.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drawing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drawing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drawing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/style-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;style-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;style-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T11:24:23.823" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T11:24:23.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8408" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-06T12:18:55.607" Score="0" Body="Techniques or materials used for illustrations, comics, or cartoons." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2020-08-07T11:24:19.000" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T11:24:19.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8410" CreationDate="2020-08-07T16:18:56.810" Score="2" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfPl7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfPl7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem here is that the flowers at the end of spider legs, appear to look more like knots tied to the end of his legs, than actual flowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering putting tiny circles on those thin legs but then I realized they would look like it would give it a more &amp;quot;pimple&amp;quot;/bubble effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options for decorating thin lines such as the legs. To make it look more realistic, but keep the whimsical look of the legs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T23:19:36.587" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T23:19:36.587" Title="How to decorate spider leg drawing?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8409" CreationDate="2020-08-07T20:46:25.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is kind of tricky.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Adding an object to the front legs, the ones closer to its mouth. Such as an insect, or insect curled up in the web. A diamond or skull of some sort(whatever you would think would look cool to you).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Would direct the eyes to the front legs. Using current patterns you have on the page already, that could be collaborated in the other legs. Bringing the image as a whole  together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-08-07T20:46:25.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2020-08-08T09:43:40.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The style is indeed usually referred to as '&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low_poly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;low-poly&lt;/a&gt;', but to nuance the accepted answer a little, '&lt;em&gt;low poly design&lt;/em&gt;' refers to a specific type of 3D modeling in which it is &lt;em&gt;the expressive goal&lt;/em&gt; of the modeler/artist to create models with a low polygon count (i.e. with as few possible triangular faces).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It became more popular ever since more possibilities for small game companies to produce games became available. Since smaller companies have less resources to spend on the creation of advanced 3D models, they often revert to using low-poly models: they are created more rapidly, and they need less powerful 3D engines to render them - which also makes them more suitable for mobile games, for example.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;That is not to say those 3D models cannot be a form of expression, or that they're easily created, since more information has to be communicated through less detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low-poly style has immense popularity, and games like Minecraft famously make use of (a different but nonetheless) low-poly style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, while 'low-poly &lt;em&gt;design&lt;/em&gt;' is an intentional variant of the style you're looking for, there are other ways to achieve a 'low-poly style'.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One can '&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;decimate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;' (reduce the vertex/polygon count on, &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/latest/modeling/modifiers/generate/decimate.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like in Blender&lt;/a&gt;) existing models (including &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photogrammetry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photogrammetric&lt;/a&gt; models) to create a similar look. While the look (depending on the method used) may not be aesthetically optimized (unequal distribution of polygons, strange displacements, &amp;amp;c.), it can easily and quickly be used on any model (import -&amp;gt; modify), including (pre)posed ones, and this is likely the technique used for the second of your example pictures, the lion/cheetah/jaguar, as it doesn't seem to have a symmetrical design (meaning it was likely a high-poly model in this specific pose before it was converted to a low-poly one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For 2D images there are &lt;strong&gt;polygonization filters&lt;/strong&gt; (like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delaunay_triangulation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Delaunay triangulation&lt;/a&gt;) that will give a similar appearance (like these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=triangulation%20vector%20portrait&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vector portraits&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get back to your question, the &amp;quot;creation technique&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; indeed be low-poly design, but this cannot really be concluded from your examples alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find similar results, 'low-poly'; 'low polygon' - or even simply 'polygon'; 'polygonization'; 'delaunay';&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try your hand at &lt;strong&gt;creating similar images yourself&lt;/strong&gt;, using software like &lt;a href=&quot;http://dmesh.thedofl.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DMesh&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polygenapp.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polygen&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://halftonepro.com/polygons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HalftonePro Polygons&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The artist &lt;a href=&quot;https://quayola.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Davide Quayola&lt;/a&gt; has created polygonized artworks based on traditional mediums, such as painting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGkxk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGkxk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Davide Quayola - Iconographies series&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Davide Quayola - &lt;em&gt;Iconographies&lt;/em&gt; series (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dw.com/de/der-digitale-dekonstrukteur-davide-quayola/av-19126026&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And sculpture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LhzdI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LhzdI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Davide Quayola - Laocoön&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Davide Quayola - &lt;em&gt;Laocoön&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.factum-arte.com/pag/784/Laocoon-Sculpture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the artist Matthew Day Jackson has used it in some of his works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xCZr5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xCZr5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Matthew Day Jackson - The Way We Were&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Matthew Day Jackson - &lt;em&gt;The Way We Were&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/de_buurman/6824292283/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;, photo by Ed Jansen)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T09:43:40.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8387" CreationDate="2020-08-08T15:24:35.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;post-it&amp;quot; notes, if on standard sticky notes paper, cannot be made into a quilt directly. If you want to do this in future, you should look into coloured and starched squares of high thread-count cotton or linen to write on, use fabric markers to write the notes with, then just use them as normal quilting squares afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Real Quilt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you want a quilt using your old paper sticky notes as a design, you will have to copy/print them onto fabric. The printers that can do this directly don't use very permanent ink, so great for T-shirts that only need to last a couple of years, not so good for quilts. You can also do it yourself by making the notes into collages, copying the collage squares using a colour laser printer and transferring the image to fabric using gel medium. Again, not extremely long lasting/colour fast. You can also use photos and other elements. One explanation of how to do this is given at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.clothpaperscissors.com/blog/technique-tuesdays-fabric-art/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cloth, Paper, Scissors&lt;/a&gt;, see also the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;img src=&quot;https://s22307.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/ArtLessonCoverSM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sew the cloth like ordinary patchwork/quilting until you have the desired size for your quilt, then use plain cloth for the &amp;quot;back&amp;quot; of the quilt or make enough to have your post-it design on front and back and then complete using batting, etc. Just remember the quilt will lose its colour with frequent washing, so will not last that long if you use it often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wall Hanging / Art&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If what you really want is a wall hanging or poster that just looks like a sticky note quilt/collage, you can use the method above or just stick the notes onto whatever backing you want to use (paper/canvas/board) with a suitable glue stick in the collage design you want, then apply a good matte acrylic varnish once you are satisfied with your design. If you use a canvas or fabric as the backing and use a really good quality varnish that dries &amp;quot;flexibly&amp;quot; you can even use decorative stitching on it and hem the edges to make it look more like a quilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to stretch the canvas/fabric on/over a suitable frame or board before starting to glue the paper squares on. Also apply varnish to both sides when finished if you want the paper to look textured like the canvas/cloth. This works better with coarser thread (more textured surface) such as rough linen or canvas, or even old burlap/sisal bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T13:06:55.310" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T13:06:55.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8376" CreationDate="2020-08-08T18:27:09.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;THE BRUSHES&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Animal hair&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it will be hard (or unethical) to come by kolinsky, wolf, red sable, or even badger or squirrel hair, some types of hair that are appropriate for watercolouring can be acquired more easily:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boar bristles&lt;/strong&gt; (taken from the ears of hogs) are commonly associated with acrylic and oil paint use, as they are very coarse and not particularly absorbent, but they are very sturdy and can be used to add texture or to lift colour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similarly, &lt;strong&gt;ox hair&lt;/strong&gt; (taken from the ears of cows) is quite rough, and also has limited possibility when it comes to watercolouring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The coarse &lt;strong&gt;hair of ponies&lt;/strong&gt; is soft and strong (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2822/6388&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; as well).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Japanese sumi brushes make use of &lt;strong&gt;goat hairs&lt;/strong&gt;, which are soft, quite absorbent, and can be used to make pointed brushes, probably making this your best brush hair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these can probably be found online; as-is, or as part of a product that you can take apart. Alternatively, there might be someone in your neighborhood that breeds any of these animals.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Note, however, that all of these easier attainable animal hairs (except goat) cannot be shaped into pointed brushes as the hairs are of equal width along their shafts. For finer brushwork I'm afraid you have to resort to using blends or synthetic fibers (or find a place rich with any of the above-mentioned wild animals and &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; scare them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Synthetic material&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the mentioned hairs can be replaced by &lt;strong&gt;synthetic variants&lt;/strong&gt;, but I'm not sure it's easy to find those sold wholesale, as (I presume) they are usually produced by brush manufacturers themselves. And while making your own blend of synthetic hairs from household products and toys might be fun and educational, it is probably more time-consuming and wasteful than it is productive.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can always buy brushes and take them apart to create custom brushes, and blend different types of hairs to get satisfying properties, but that might not be what you are aiming for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;THE FERRULES&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the ferrules, you can use (non-corrosive) &lt;strong&gt;metal plates&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;string&lt;/strong&gt; or (non-corrosive) &lt;strong&gt;wire&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;plastic&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;feather quills&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These should all be easy to come by. You can use the quills from duck or goose feathers, but those of most other relatively large birds should be fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;strong&gt;epoxy&lt;/strong&gt; to fix the hairs in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;THE HANDLES&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the handles are usually made of &lt;strong&gt;wood&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;bamboo&lt;/strong&gt;, but &lt;strong&gt;acrylic&lt;/strong&gt; is also quite common. They are sealed and coated, to protect them against the (artistic) elements.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The handle is traditionally fixed to the ferrule with glue, but here epoxy could also be a viable or even sturdier alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;For more information, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/brush1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/more/brushmaking.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T13:24:48.557" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T13:24:48.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-09T08:51:19.840" Score="2" ViewCount="4161" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I know if my brushes contain pig or hog hair? And for what purpose are these brushes actually used; acrylic, oil or watercolor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9491" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T09:12:03.703" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T16:44:54.863" Title="How to know if brush contains hog/pig hair or not?" Tags="|material-identification|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8409" CreationDate="2020-08-09T13:19:33.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Real spiders have 2 joints in each leg. Yours has 1 joint in the front and hind legs, and none in the middle legs. Drawing these joints correctly would make the shape much more recognizable as a spider, even without the context of the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very simplistic shape with only one leg joint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://image.shutterstock.com/image-vector/spider-vector-icon-260nw-666171283.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://image.shutterstock.com/image-vector/spider-vector-icon-260nw-666171283.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simple spider&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here a more natural shape with 2 leg joints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.pinimg.com/736x/58/5d/14/585d14d243483a1df1f1ea6f73852d28.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.pinimg.com/736x/58/5d/14/585d14d243483a1df1f1ea6f73852d28.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Natural spider&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the shape of the body is almost the same, the first one resembles an ant or some other generic insect. The second one is unmistakeably a spider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the legs have 2 joints each&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the 2 front legs face towards the head, the 2 hind legs away from the head&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;all legs join the body very close to the head&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try googling &amp;quot;spider icon&amp;quot; for inspiration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-08-09T19:45:34.273" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T19:45:34.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8415" CreationDate="2020-08-09T16:44:54.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;USE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hog hair or hog bristle brushes are stiff, strong, and durable. Having frayed ends, the bristles are usually &lt;strong&gt;not appropriate for watercolouring&lt;/strong&gt;, as they aren't able to soak up a lot of water, but they are sometimes used for adding texture or scrubbing away faulty layers of watercolour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly because they don't absorb a lot of fluid, &lt;strong&gt;they can be used well with oil and acrylic paints&lt;/strong&gt;, as you can more easily move paint around. With their rough ('flagged') ends they don't allow for much precision, hence they are often formed into larger and rougher brushes, and can be used for covering larger areas, for grounding, or for more expressive approaches and impasto techniques.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;However, by whipping the brush the ends will fray more, making the hairs softer, allowing them to be used for softer brushwork or even blending. This softening naturally occurs the longer you work with hog hair brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;IDENTIFICATION&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To identify these brushes - which is not easy - you can look at the colour, and the structure of the hairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As organic hairs, they are usually quite easy to tell apart from synthetic ones (unless the latter are made to imitate animal hair), as the shafts are &lt;strong&gt;a lot more 'noisy'&lt;/strong&gt; (see images below), both structure- and colour-wise.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Synthetic brushes also tend to have tops with much straighter cuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lfuxn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lfuxn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another, surefire way to distinguish organic hairs from synthetic ones is to &lt;strong&gt;burn&lt;/strong&gt; them: organic hairs will burn as separate threads, and have a distinctive bad smell, while synthetic hairs will melt together and smell of chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hog/boar bristle brushes are (almost) always a &lt;strong&gt;broken white&lt;/strong&gt;, and don't have a strong sheen to them, especially when compared to most synthetic hairs.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Sometimes a streak of black paint is added to make them look like badger hairs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lmhh8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lmhh8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/brushes/30271-badger-double-brushes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned before, hog hairs tend to fray at the tip, and this is visible in the brushes as having &lt;strong&gt;a distinctly diffuse tip&lt;/strong&gt;, more so than with ox hair, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NP92e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NP92e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tip of a hog hair bristle brush&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;edited from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yudatools.com/html/en/products/paint_brush/PBB001_hog_bristle_paint_brush.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;original&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The hairs are also quite &lt;strong&gt;inexpensive&lt;/strong&gt;, so the brushes are usually on the cheaper side of a producer's brush spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There aren't any clear-cut differences with other organic brushes, so I hope this is sufficient information to help you distinguish hog hair brushes from others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T16:44:54.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7983" CreationDate="2020-08-10T02:50:25.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a good matte finish once your paint is completely dry/cured. Remember to test on a &amp;quot;sample&amp;quot; like a button or something painted with the same paints you used on the figurine, to make sure the finish is to your liking (and see how many airbrush or spray can layers you need).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haven't done this myself in years, and never with Nendoroids, but I used to use all sorts of lacquer, acrylic and/or enamel paints on models, depending on what we could get in South Africa at any given time, then just finish of with a good matte finish after letting the paint dry/cure for a few days.&#xA;Just remember you can paint enamel on top of acrylic and acrylic on top of laquer, but not the other way round (except for very, very careful, thin layers of lacquer airbrushed onto VERY well dried/cured paints). So I went looking around to see what the recommended way is - Seems they still do it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few good hobby sites, or you can google the specific figure you want to recreate and usually get a very good selection of advice, tutorials, YouTube videos, etc. fom people who have done it before. I picked the link below, because I figured if they're using these paints, tools and techniques to do commercial figurines for sale, it should work well enough, even if the blogger isn't a pro themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Kahotan's Blog at Goodsmile:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mikatan.goodsmile.info/en/2013/02/27/final-painting-a-nendoroid-expression-part-10-adding-a-matte-and-blush/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mikatan.goodsmile.info/en/2013/02/27/final-painting-a-nendoroid-expression-part-10-adding-a-matte-and-blush/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(I've linked to the final instalment,  as it shows the face before and after the use of a matte finish).&#xA;It goes from very shiny to quite a decent matte finish just from using the spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 10 part series of blog posts you see an amateur working with the same paints and tools used by the professionals to paint a Nendoroid face with helpful advice and inputs from the pros working around them. It also shows the paint brands (although I don't know if they are available outside Japan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastEditorUserId="9490" LastEditDate="2020-08-10T02:57:24.043" LastActivityDate="2020-08-10T02:57:24.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-10T05:40:38.017" Score="4" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using &lt;a href=&quot;https://polytek.com/products/pol-ease-2350-sealer-release-agent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pol-Ease 2350 Sealer &amp;amp; Release Agent&lt;/a&gt; to make sure the silicone (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/dragon-skin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smooth-On Dragon Skin&lt;/a&gt;) does not stick to the mold I have created with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smooth-on.com/products/mold-star-15-slow/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smooth-On Mold Star 15 Slow&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But from the creation of the mold, I have seen that there is a little too much silicone not completely curing between the mold and the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mann-release.com/products/ease-release/200/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ease Release 200&lt;/a&gt; was recommended by Smooth-On. But, from watching YouTube videos, I though 2350 was also a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is using the Ease Release 200 something that I should have done? Am I mixing the wrong chemicals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mold is now sticky. I was able to create a test silicon part from the mold by using talcum powder to block the stickiness. It worked, but I got the wrong texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any guidance is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ease Release 200 is now on the way (5 days), but If I can figure out how to correctly use the 2350, I can continue with the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9493" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-02-12T21:00:53.580" LastActivityDate="2023-11-09T22:06:00.700" Title="Is this release agent compatible with these Smooth-On silicones?" Tags="|mold-making|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8420" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-10T08:25:58.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mold-making&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mold-making&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;mold-making&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-11T14:20:27.113" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T14:20:27.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8421" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-10T08:25:58.580" Score="0" Body="For questions about using and preparing silicone molds used to cast objects. If the question is about creating a mold, use the [mold-making] tag as well." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T08:05:03.720" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T08:05:03.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8391" CreationDate="2020-08-11T03:38:02.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Book binding with hot glue?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that professionals do use hot glue on paperbacks, but they do not offer better results than other methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) Hot Glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have experimented with hot glues, but don’t recommend them for beginners. They are harder to work with and don’t offer any long term benefits over the cold glues I have mentioned. The drying time is faster, but I spent a considerable amount of time trying to get smooth even coverage (often resorting to using an iron to re-heat the glued book spines making the glue workable again.) I have seen people create wide flat custom nozzles for their glue guns that deposit the glue in a wider pattern, but don’t have the tools required to copy the idea. The Surebonder PRO2-100 gun has interchangable nozzles that include a wide flat one. It’s not super wide, but it is better than the standard nozzle on most glue guns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible to create some sort of heated glue pot that keeps the glue warm enough for you to brush it on before it hardens and then quickly fold the cover over (or later run a hot iron over the cover to re-melt the glue underneath and bond it to the cover.) I have seen a demonstration by one person who used a hot plate to melt a bunch of EVA glue in a pan and then dip the book spines into the glue. He was able to make a lot of books fast, but there was a considerable amount of setup involved in the process. Another person quickly laid down a fat line of glue over a book spine and then used a metal spreader tool to distribute the glue across the book spine and press it into the paper. This approach wastes a fair amount of glue and requires working at a brisk pace. You also need a pro-grade glue gun capable of laying down a lot of glue fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professional bookbinding machines use a heated glue pot that travels across the spine to deposit the glue evenly. There is also an electric binding tool that uses special covers with pre-formed strips of hot-melt glue on the inside of the spine. You place your pages in the cover, place the spine edge into the device, and wait for the heating element to melt the glue into the pages. The covers aren’t much to look at, but the bindings are strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hot glue experiments were very time consuming and I wasn’t happy with the results. While I haven’t completely given up on EVA hot glues, I still recommend contact cement or PVA glues. The dry times are longer, but the results are nicer and more consistent. - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diybookbinding.com/glue-options-for-perfect-bound-paperback-books/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glue Options For Perfect Bound Paperback Books&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use this method, I generally use a hacksaw to roughen the spine of the book as well as making three very small grooves into the spine in order make the glue adhere somewhat better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for myself, this is a great method for paperbacks that are meant to turnover rather quickly. Those meant to be of very long duration, I would still recommend the standard stitching involved. This is my practice. Books that are intended to be around for sometime should be manufactured in a way that reflects that in their binding, in order to withstand the ware and tear of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both methods remain quite good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-14T19:17:54.707" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T19:17:54.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8324" CreationDate="2020-08-11T08:45:18.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of things you could try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What I usually do: Get your two pieces of steel aligned clamp the diagonal opposite corners with vice grips. Drill the other two diagonal holes 5mm, (you will need a wooden block or some thin parallels (25 x3mm alum strip works a treat) in your vice), half drill the two 5mm holes with 6mm drill. (n.b. if you are going to use tool steel, I would drill 5.2mm instead, in tool steel snapping a tap off ruins your day. Then tap the m6 using the 6mm holes as guides. n.b. in tool steel you must have sharp HSS drill bits, and go slow, and use a lubricant, the smelly green tapping compound works a treat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the pieces slightly longer, clamp the two pieces square, put the tiniest tack weld on each end, drill, tap holes as above. Mill the ends flat with a carbide tool to remove the welds. (works better with mild steel or keystock than tool steel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simply glue the pieces together- hot melt or epoxy or CA or double sided tape, all of these will disbond around 300C, so just drill, tap, then heat up when finished, (note that CA glue creates toxic fumes when heated) this method is not really suited to the small pieces you have, would work with larger pieces and especially aluminium.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a proper machine vise, then if you place a sheet of soft aluminium (or even just a couple of small strips) up against one jaw, then you can clamp both pieces securely by tightening the vice tight enough to squish the aluminium. (When drilling identical stacked bits of aluminium, you can just stick some rubber tape to one jaw for the same effect)&#xA;Whatever method you use be sure to punch an index mark on each piece so it goes together the right way around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=== [later edit to add more detail] ===&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that (especially in sheet metal) that a jobber drill will tend to drill &lt;strong&gt;triangular shaped holes&lt;/strong&gt;, e.g, they may measure 6.02 with calipers, yet a 6.00 drill won't fit because the inner dimension of the triange is 5.98. Use a &amp;quot;B&amp;quot; drill for 6.05mm drill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To align your drill with the punch marks or pilot holes on a job that is in the drill vice. (This old school method is typically used on milling machines, to re-enter drilled holes with a slot drill, but works quite well with sloppy bench drills, it's fairly quick, and you don't have to be real fussy if using jobber drills)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's best to mark your work with the centre lines, i.e. use a broad black marker pen across the general area, and gently scratch the lines using the tips of your digital calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gently punch the intersection of the lines e.g. with a spring loaded punch. (Hint, place the piece on a block of &lt;strong&gt;wood&lt;/strong&gt; to limit the size of the punch mark) Then take a solid punch and a hammer, and nudge the initial &amp;quot;pin-prick&amp;quot; in the correct direction, leaving a decent dent the drill will centre in . (hint: place your piece on a solid lump of &lt;strong&gt;iron&lt;/strong&gt; (vice?) to get bigger dents)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make a &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;diddler&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; or centering needle by grinding the point of a 2&amp;quot; nail to a needle shape (or cut the end off a scriber) , wind the quill most of the way down, So it's 60mm above the work piece, and lock there (or jam a block of wood above the chuck to hold it down) take a marble sized gob of plasticine (or poster adhesive) and push on to the nose of the chuck, and push the blunt end of your needle into this, and align the needle roughly vertical. Start the drill at 300-600 RPM , now use a steel rule or similar to slowly push the tip of the needle to stop it wobbling , as you push the rule in , the needle will stop wobbling, then try to &amp;quot;walk&amp;quot; up your rule, at this point slowly pull the ruler back, the needle will now be running true. Turn drill off. Position your work exactly under the needle. Clamp the work down. Start drill and recenter the diddler with the steel rule. Carefully lower the spinning diddler, it should enter the punch hole exactly. Remove diddler and drill hole. Repeat with remaining holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Picking up an existing pilot hole&lt;/strong&gt;. ensure you have removed any burr from drilling the pilot holes. You need something like a 6-10mm rod about 50mm long with a well centred 45-60degree ground end (a brand new punch for example or you can use a centre drill) position the work pieces and drill vice roughly under this. Now wind the drill press down slowly, while gently wiggling the vice (If using  a centre drill, rotate it in reverse a few revolutions as you go) finally you should have the chuck lowered with some force, holding the drill vice in place, now with your left hand clamp the drill vice in this position. Once clamped verify the position by carefully watching the centering tool as it lowered down to the hole, if tries to move sideways on contact, then you are off centre. Note if you are using jobber drills or long drills, then you don't need real good accuracy. another way to verify the hole centre is to use a the centering tool attached to a gob of plasticine on the chuck, lower this into the hole , then lift up clear, start drill at 300rpm, if your hole was off centre, the diddler point will wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An alternative for &lt;strong&gt;picking up pilot hole&lt;/strong&gt;  is to use a ball bearing, about one &amp;amp; a half times hole diameter, for 5mm hole use 8mm ball bearing, wind in your chuck to suit a 5mm drill, sit the ball bearing on in the hole, a bit of plasticine will stop it rolling away (or a magnet_, locate the bearing approximately under the drill chuck, wiggle the work and vice as you slowly lower the chuck, when hard down, tighten clamps with left hand. (Hints: Have your clamps ready to go. Clean the work area first , keep a small magnet attached to you drill press so you can store diddlers and ball bearings there, a big long magnet is helpful to find dropped ball bearings on the floor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9494" LastEditorUserId="9494" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T00:26:45.663" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T00:26:45.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8425" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2020-08-11T22:24:34.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Funny how you can feel connected to a virtual community without so much as an introduction: I am Joachim, a Finland-based Dutchman having received his MFA in Belgium.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My main interests and competences lie in painting, art history and drawing. One of the mainsprings of my art are video games, hence my activity on Arqade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one of the most active members, I believe I can ensure a more effective moderator presence. I think I'm naturally rational, empathetic, and observant.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Although the website's current scope might be a work in progress, my understanding of it is quite extensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much of my time on Arts &amp;amp; Crafts goes into moderator tasks already, like editing existing posts (fixing grammatical errors, rephrasing and retagging where necessary) and improving our platform's backbone through input and feedback on our meta site. I'm fond of doing those things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through my nomination I hope to be able to play a key role in molding our Beta website into a coherent, straightforward, transparent, and - most of all - inspiring platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any questions, please ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-11T22:24:34.827" LastActivityDate="2020-08-11T22:24:34.827" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2020-08-11T22:24:34.827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8047" CreationDate="2020-08-12T00:44:09.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't have this particular machine -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these universal motors use electronic speed controls that use a device called either a TRIAC or SCR, that regulate the motor speed by chopping the mains frequency (i.e. turning on and off rapidly 100 or 120 times per second). The usual failure mode is a short circuit, which will produce the symptoms of &amp;quot;only runs at full speed&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These electronic speed controls also use a filter with capacitors and inductors, and it is possible that a shorted filter capacitor will also produce the same fault, as mentioned in another answer. The capacitors used are known as &amp;quot;X2 class safety capacitors&amp;quot;; they have an internal mechanism that is supposed to clear faults by blowing internal fuses, however this mechanism may not work with low current loads (like sewing machine motors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9494" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T08:05:21.053" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T08:05:21.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8436" CreationDate="2020-08-12T05:23:19.090" Score="4" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kilns for firing ceramics are lined with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmOjJQ3u0dM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;firebrick&lt;/a&gt;, which are also ceramic. Note that heating elements are often placed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=electric%20kiln&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwjX3smi9pTrAhUECs0KHca9CBAQ_AUoAnoECA0QBA&amp;amp;biw=1283&amp;amp;bih=725&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in grooves&lt;/a&gt; in the walls. However, different ceramics have different firing temperatures, so it may be the case that the walls can only be fired at even higher temperatures. I would think that this is the case, as ceramics at firing temperature are often weak and not far from the point where they start to soften and deform under gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the maximum safe operating temperature of most kilns below the temperature that could fire the kind of bricks in their walls? If so, are these bricks fired in a graphite furnace or other special ultra-high temperature process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9501" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T19:45:14.700" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T04:07:25.833" Title="Do kilns get hot enough to fire their own bricks?" Tags="|ceramics|kiln|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-12T09:59:06.587" Score="3" ViewCount="2952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found an old bottle of PVA-based glue in one of my cabinets. The glue in the bottle appears to be useful, but I can't use any of it since the bottle seems to be sealed shut with the same glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I unseal the bottle of glue, and use the glue inside it? I don't want to damage the applicator, so cutting or removing the tip isn't an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9451" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T20:36:57.463" Title="How can I unseal a bottle of glue that has been sealed shut?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8428" CreationDate="2020-08-12T11:38:57.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try holding the lid in hot water&lt;/strong&gt; running from the tap for a while. That usually softens the glue sufficiently. For more severe cases, you can try holding it in (near-)boiling water.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Afterwards you can use a towel to get more friction and hold on the lid, and carefully force it open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T11:38:57.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8427" CreationDate="2020-08-12T18:58:09.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firebrick are thermally stable for the temperature range they are specified. However , some materials may cause chemical changes in certain types of fire brick and develop lower melting phases. I am thinking of glazes dripping onto brick.  The normal Nichrome elements will not do this. Also silicon carbide elements will not deteriorate the brick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T18:58:09.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8428" CreationDate="2020-08-12T20:36:57.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;PVA glue doesn't bond well with the plastic the bottle is made of; the dried glue peels off easily if you start at one spot.  It's harder to separate the glue and get the cap off when you're working against a lot of glue surface area at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you grab the base of the cap with pliers, you can typically get enough leverage to break the glue bond and unscrew the cap without damaging anything.  Once it's open, you can peel the glue out of the dispenser tip and get any dried glue out of the bottle neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If brute force isn't enough to unscrew the cap, you can warm it to soften the glue a little, as Joachim suggests.  That will help it stretch and peel as you unscrew the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, depending on the glue, freezing it to make the dried glue harder can also sometimes help if the bottle is empty and you just want to save the bottle for reuse.  It makes the glue less flexible, so brute force can more easily break the bond.  But freezing can ruin any remaining good glue, which is your goal, so this wouldn't be applicable in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T20:36:57.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8518" CreationDate="2020-08-12T21:03:04.370" Score="5" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;When shopping around for art paper there doesn't appear to be a measurement for amount of tooth. The paper does have a specified weight and whether it is rough or cold/hot pressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can the amount of tooth be measured, allowing comparisons between different paper manufacturers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If not, is it possible for some cold pressed paper to have less texture than some hot pressed paper (i.e. an overlap between the two)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm imagining the paper analogue of grit for sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/655/9298&quot;&gt;Does paper have tooth levels?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/657/9298&quot;&gt;How to identify the level of tooth a paper has?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9298" LastEditorUserId="9298" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T01:15:21.343" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T17:37:27.340" Title="Can you measure the amount of tooth that a piece of paper has?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-13T00:56:46.417" Score="3" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;On removing the drop-in bobbin case I broke 'the spring'. 'The spring' is pictured well in many articles but;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No explanation of what the 'electrical contact' spring actually does. (Other than a guide to inserting the bobbin correctly).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No name of the part other than 'spring'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cannot find it in the parts manual and wonder if anyone can tell me how I could find more details about it, so that I can order this. Sources would also be welcome.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My machine is 2 weeks old and has produced nothing but birds nests, 2 broken and 1 bent needle!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CbTx4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CbTx4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9505" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T08:08:17.460" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T12:50:07.290" Title="Where can I buy a new drop-in Bobbin case electric contact spring?" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8311" CreationDate="2020-08-13T03:56:16.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll add some minor detail to Allison's answer.&#xA;Unplug the sewing machine! in case you step on the pedal while your hands are inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all the parts that need to be oiled will have a little oil hole on top, or a piece of oily felt.&#xA;Additionally some of the sliding parts can be lubricated by putting a small amount (half drop) of oil on a cotton bud, and wiping that on the slide, and turning by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need much oil: half a drop is enough. Squeeze the oil bottle till it bulges about half a drop, then touch to the oil hole, it will run inside the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep oil, oily fingers etc away from any rubber items (e.g. drive belts) and keep paper towel available to wipe up spills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9494" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T03:56:16.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8427" CreationDate="2020-08-13T04:07:25.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your firebricks will already have been fired, I'm not sure anyone makes kilns with green firebricks, they would move around when firing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand if you have used fire clay , fire cement, or refractory cement to put your kiln together, then you need to ramp temperature slowly , fire clay cures with heat using the appropriate temperature and ramp temperature slowly, other products set with water addition, but need slow heat the first time around.&#xA;Refer to manufacturers data sheet e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wtknowles.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Fireclay-Fire-Cement-Data-Sheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wtknowles.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Fireclay-Fire-Cement-Data-Sheet.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9494" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T04:07:25.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8445" CreationDate="2020-08-13T06:02:31.643" Score="5" ViewCount="3140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Brother CS6000i sewing machine. I noticed that on the top of the machine, there is a dial that goes in slow increments, between 1 and 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried turning the dial, and it doesn't seem to affect the operation of the machine in any way (the speed control is a completely different slider on the front). However, I've noticed that when I turn it to different extremes, my stitches seem to come out incorrectly (with loops on the front or back). I've set it to 4, which seems to provide an accurate stitch on the fabrics I've used it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly does that dial do, and in what cases should I turn it to a different setting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9451" LastEditorUserId="9451" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T19:25:04.857" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T19:47:21.477" Title="What is that dial on top of my sewing machine? What purpose does it serve?" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2020-08-13T07:19:34.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like tension adjustment. The dial is in the same place as on my Bernina and the effect seems right. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.hunker.com/12365684/how-to-adjust-the-tension-on-a-brother-cs6000i-sewing-machine&amp;amp;sa=U&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwiU7pTP0ZfrAhU0t3EKHYJBAhsQFnoECAgQAw&amp;amp;usg=AOvVaw0xC9JU2RV4HvdviDhgbhoo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some instructions for setting the tension on your model; there's no picture but it describes the location as being on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T07:19:34.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-13T07:37:49.243" Score="3" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a fountain pen is onboard an aircraft, it can leak ink due to the strong pressure difference inside the pen vs. outside the pen. This can result in messes to clean up on the flight even if the pen is not used, and at best ink blots when it is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the advice I've been seeing about bringing fountain pens onto airplanes is that one should either completely fill them, or leave them completely empty before boarding the plane. However, this only works for &lt;em&gt;storing&lt;/em&gt; the pen while in flight, and not for actually &lt;em&gt;using&lt;/em&gt; the pen while in flight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I effectively use a fountain pen while on an airplane? Is the only way to leave it empty and to fill it while onboard? I can think of a design for a pen that would allow it to be used on a plane effectively (store the ink in a bladder that changes size), but are there any pens that work like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9451" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T09:15:51.500" Title="How can I use a fountain pen while onboard an airplane?" Tags="|ink|pens|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8439" CreationDate="2020-08-13T11:14:42.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If boarding with it completely full prevents leaks in storage, that's because there's no bubble of air at ground pressure in the ink. That means you should be able to use it without a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T11:14:42.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8444" CreationDate="2020-08-13T12:28:49.293" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GuERF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GuERF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My aim was to create a kind of photo frame. That frame has a thin outer board attached to it and inside we can put photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outer thin board on borders is fat and that creates a kind of depth that shows that we are looking in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21pLx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21pLx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is my drawing not having this depth and what can be done to achieve that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please show with diagrams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T07:30:50.467" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T07:30:50.467" Title="How to create depth in this rectangular zentangle drawing?" Tags="|drawing|mandala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8439" CreationDate="2020-08-13T12:30:58.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are flexible ink receptacles for fountain pens known as &lt;strong&gt;ink sacs&lt;/strong&gt; or bladders, like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2tNnt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2tNnt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sjjnxz_lrBU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;they apparently don't give any advantage over rigid cartridges&lt;/strong&gt; when it comes to air travel (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/325676-how-do-parker-51s-do-with-air-travel/#entry3891145&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;sacked pens also have trouble with rapid pressure changes&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, which is understandable as the material is quite rigid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do, is to &lt;strong&gt;always point the nib upward&lt;/strong&gt;, as any air in the cartridge or sac will expand during cabin pressure adjustments and will force the (negligibly influenced) ink out of the nib. Having the nib topside will minimize potential flow.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is also why &lt;strong&gt;having the cartridge completely full&lt;/strong&gt; (that is, without any air inside) causes the least leakage problems.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After having used it (and before descending) you can always take out the cartridge and place it in a sealable container or bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T12:30:58.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8433" CreationDate="2020-08-13T12:50:07.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason you can't find any part numbers or additional information is because that part of the machine is not considered a &amp;quot;user serviceable&amp;quot; area. As you appear to be inexperienced with sewing machines in general, &lt;strong&gt;I would strongly recommend that you not attempt to repair this part yourself&lt;/strong&gt;. There are many sewing machine repair shops available that can do the repair for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T12:50:07.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8441" CreationDate="2020-08-13T13:00:14.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;strong&gt;shading&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As light naturally comes from above, the most logical approach to create a sense of depth is to add shadows to receding areas based on an imaginary light source straight above it, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLEYjm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLEYjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;edited version of image from question with added shading&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the frame you are referring to has a lot of relief that similarly obscures and catches light, which has a huge effect on a sense of 3-dimensionality.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This you can likewise easily simulate by shading the decorative patterns, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5AabRm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5AabRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because your drawing seems to have been done in pen, you can - depending on the paper - add these shadows using a large variety of mediums, from pencils to paints, with &lt;strong&gt;charcoal&lt;/strong&gt; being the easiest and quickest way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T13:00:14.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2020-08-13T13:00:58.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That's a tension dial&lt;/strong&gt;, for adjusting how taut the upper thread is held while sewing; the adjustments run from 1 (least tension) to 5 (greatest tension), and allow you to adjust the pull of the upper thread against the thread coming from the bobbin. You've already observed this, by noting the loops migrating to the top (too high) or bottom (too low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different fabrics will often need different tensions, but there aren't really hard-and-fast rules for this. The typical process instead is to &lt;strong&gt;sew a test seam using the same fabrics and check your tension&lt;/strong&gt;, adjusting up or down as needed until the two threads are balanced. That said, if you're machine basting or stitching a gathering seam, throwing the tension wildly off can make the basting much easier to pull and remove later, as one side will be very loose and easy to break (or pull through the loops of the other side, in the case of a gather).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, while you can also adjust the bobbin tension in front-loading machines, this is rarely necessary and typically only done if something has gone wrong in the bobbin case. Most top-loading machines don't have a way to adjust the bobbin tension. Ordinarily, you'll only ever need to adjust the top thread tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2015/10/13/how-to-achieve-ideal-sewing-machine-thread-tension&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Threads Magazine&lt;/a&gt; has a good illustrated write-up with information on factors other than the tension dial that may throw off your tension and necessitate additional adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T19:47:21.477" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T19:47:21.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-13T13:38:36.573" Score="6" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard that watercolor papers are sized with different things.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I want to know what the difference is between watercolor papers sized with gelatin and sized with starch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9491" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-13T15:49:00.583" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T17:16:50.430" Title="What is the difference between these watercolor papers?" Tags="|paper|watercolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8447" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2020-08-13T16:50:33.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My name is Ken Graham and I would like to be considered as running for moderator one this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True that I have not the reputation of many others on the site or have the frequency levels of visitation with Arts &amp;amp; Crafts, but I am willing to made adjustments to my routine to accomplish that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am moderator on &lt;a href=&quot;https://christianity.stackexchange.com/users?tab=moderators&quot;&gt;Christianity SE&lt;/a&gt; and I am more than willing to volunteer for the site as a team player in union with the other moderators and working with their feedback when necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2020-08-14T16:31:02.470" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T16:31:02.470" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2020-08-13T16:50:33.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8439" CreationDate="2020-08-13T21:11:51.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are things you can do to reduce the risks, as described in the other answers, but I would be wary of using any kind of pen containing liquid ink on a plane (although a &amp;quot;felt or fiber tipped&amp;quot; pen may be OK; never investigated that).  I've had a Pilot Precise technical-style pen that uses disposable refills (the entire guts of the pen), leak while sealed in the tip-up position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to write on a plane, pens with gel ink (which also includes most ballpoint pens), are much less likely to leak.  The best type would be a Fisher &amp;quot;Space Pen&amp;quot; (various other pens can also use those refills).  These are manufactured pressurized and are designed to use that pressure to feed a very thick ink without leaking (they can write in the vacuum of space without leaking).  If writing with a fountain pen is important, I would just wait until you land to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-13T21:11:51.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8450" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-14T06:43:21.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about preparing the work surface on which one is about to perform artwork on. For example, a question about cleaning an adhesive label off a jar that is to be painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9451" LastEditorUserId="9451" LastEditDate="2020-08-14T09:36:33.087" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T09:36:33.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8451" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-14T06:43:21.113" Score="0" Body="For questions about preparing the work surface on which one is about to perform artwork on, e.g. cleaning an adhesive label off a jar that is to be painted." OwnerUserId="9451" LastEditorUserId="9451" LastEditDate="2020-08-14T09:36:29.730" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T09:36:29.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-14T10:18:58.437" Score="7" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to finish up a graphite drawing I was commissioned to draw and my customer doesn't live close enough to give them the drawing in person. So, I need to roll it up and ship it to them. Will rolling a drawing that has been sprayed with a fixative cause any problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9513" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-14T11:31:10.840" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T15:01:56.123" Title="Should I spray my graphite drawing with fixative before shipping it or should I advise my customer to spray it when it arrives?" Tags="|drawing|preservation|graphite|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8453" CreationDate="2020-08-14T11:29:17.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no reason to assume it will cause problems as long as the fixative has had sufficient drying time (as indicated on the can or bottle).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You will likely face more problems without fixing it, as the graphite will smudge, especially with the drawing rolled up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-10-15T15:01:56.123" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T15:01:56.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8457" CreationDate="2020-08-14T11:38:18.633" Score="7" ViewCount="1500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I thought masking tape is used for painting on paper because it can come off easily. I simply put masking tape on a drawing sheet and just to see whether it comes off easily or not, I started peeling it from paper - slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It tore paper. A layer of paper came off with the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some particular way of putting masking tape on drawing sheets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T12:30:45.600" Title="Masking tape tears paper off!" Tags="|drawing|painting|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8456" CreationDate="2020-08-14T14:55:22.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Masking tape is the general term for  a kind of tape for masking off parts of a range of materials (wood, stone, glass, concrete, &amp;amp;c.). The glue will need to have a certain level of bonding (often pressure-bonding) with the surface for it to stay in place and keep the paint from covering - or seeping in on - that surface.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The amount of bonding is dependent on the surface it is intended for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What you need is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drafting_tape&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;drafting tape&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, a masking tape specifically aimed at taping paper, which has a weaker bonding. It is similar to kraft tape, which you can also use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your application, an alternative to tapes can be masking fluid, a liquid that cures into an aquaphobic latex layer which you can easily peel off of the paper. It is often used by watercolour artists to mask areas that need to keep the colour of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T14:55:22.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8446" CreationDate="2020-08-14T16:35:06.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gelatin used in paper is made from animal hide cooked down into a gelatin form, while starch is made from wheat and chalk. So for a cruelty-free/animal friendly option, people do prefer to use starch over gelatin for paper-making.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Because starch kind of puts a layer/barrier on the paper, it helps with the watercolor not saturating the paper and absorbing into the paper, which can be beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-14T17:16:50.430" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T17:16:50.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8459" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2020-08-14T16:58:46.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My name is Alyssa, my education derives from trade school in graphic design from Pennsylvania. Currently residing in Greater Houston Texas Area. Self-taught painter, sketcher, animator. Also specialized the past five years in the tool industry, more specifically hand tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been helping Arts and Crafts for little over a year. I enjoy giving positive criticism in drawing, also find delight in helping crafter's with material identification. Being in the tool industry for half a decade, has given me the ability to help crafter's find what they need to start, and to finish projects they are working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I have experienced a time crunch-as of recent--I do find myself monitoring new posts, closed posts, editing posts, and collaborating with others in comments sections. I am very grateful to find such a helpful, caring community, to help fellow artists that are seeking questions and answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2020-08-14T16:58:46.857" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T16:58:46.857" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2020-08-14T16:58:46.857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8456" CreationDate="2020-08-14T18:43:40.987" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few tricks of the trade for using tape on drawing paper. Here are some of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use good quality paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try using different types of tape to see which kind works best with the type of paper you're using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick the tape to your pants one or more times before sticking it to the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't leave the tape on the paper for more than 24 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the tape slowly, pulling away from the illustration instead of straight upwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a blow dryer or heat gun to heat up the tape slightly and soften its glue before removing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastActivityDate="2020-08-14T18:43:40.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8453" CreationDate="2020-08-15T01:51:31.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixative only takes 5-7 minutes to dry thoroughly. If the graphite drawing isn't sprayed with fixative and is shipped, it could cause smudging once the piece is rolled up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be common for buyers for example, to receive a rolled up piece of canvas, and get it stretched to fit a frame. Haven't heard of having a buyer spray fixative, or sealer themselves on a finished piece. It seems like it would be more of the artist to finish the piece before shipping. Unless of course, it was given to someone that preserves art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T01:51:31.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8456" CreationDate="2020-08-15T17:58:25.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about drafting tape if you can't find it in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common hack - peel masking tape, stick it a couple of times on another surface (say, your hand) to remove some adhesive, and then use it on the paper. Make sure the initial surface is clean, though, we don't want dirt on the paper ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9524" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T12:30:45.600" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T12:30:45.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8463" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-15T18:01:17.623" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T18:01:17.623" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T18:01:17.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8464" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-15T18:01:17.623" Score="0" Body="For questions about selection, characteristics, or usage of soft filling material for adding volume or cushioning to soft items such as toys, clothing, upholstery, pillows, and cushions." OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-16T14:00:20.197" LastActivityDate="2020-08-16T14:00:20.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5894" CreationDate="2020-08-15T19:39:45.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Epoxy putty, including Milliput, is a mixture of liquid epoxy and filler that makes the composite the consistency of clay.  The epoxy does the work of holding the mixture together and bonding it to the substrate.  The filler thickens it to give it the desired handling characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some putties, like Milliput, will be softened by water while still uncured, but that's more of a side effect of the composition than a feature.  The epoxy component doesn't mix with water, it's the filler that's affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water can be exploited to smooth the surface because it thins the filler and the epoxy doesn't stick when it or the surface is wet.  Smoothing the surface doesn't have a significant effect on the rest of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you mix water into the putty, some of it will be trapped when the epoxy cures, which degrades and weakens the cured material.  Also, the moisture in the putty in contact with the surface it's applied to weakens the bond holding it in place.  The more water you add, the more it will degrade the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your objective is just a surface coating or filler for minor defects, which doesn't need to be durable and won't be subject to a lot of handling, thinned Milliput may be adequate.  But it isn't the ideal solution.  Epoxy-based products work best when used as manufactured; start with a product of the right consistency for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you need is liquid epoxy, just start with that rather than adulterating epoxy putty.  If what you need is a spreadable paste, start with an epoxy paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T19:39:45.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-16T11:50:31.237" Score="11" ViewCount="3237" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, theoretically all colours can be mixed to a higher level of saturation when done using a CYM pallete, especially for magentas and hot pinks. Is this true? Can a limited palette of just these three colours and white suffice for painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9526" LastActivityDate="2022-04-02T22:43:05.120" Title="Are there any downsides when painting with a cyan-magenta-yellow palette instead of the traditional yellow-blue and-red?" Tags="|painting|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8466" CreationDate="2020-08-16T15:31:17.817" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyan, magenta and yellow are actually &lt;strong&gt;the primary colors you should use&lt;/strong&gt; when painting with inks and paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I'm surprised we didn't have this kind of question asked before, because most of us are taught the wrong primary colors in school and by paint manufacturers)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fair warning: the information in the following section is WRONG but it's what most people learn about the color wheel.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical color wheel that is printed in (some) art books and on paint boxes looks sike this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oa85W.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oa85W.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary colors are: red, blue and yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every child learns that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing red and green yields brown&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing red and blue yields purple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing blue and yellow yields green&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But have a closer look. The wheel is not uniform and yellow has a much bigger area than all other colors. The color right next to red is magenta, which is actually &lt;em&gt;lighter&lt;/em&gt; than the two colors it's supposed to be mixed of. And anyone who ever tried mixing a vibrant purple from red and blue was disappointed by the muddy outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How it actually works&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually 2 sets of primary colors and both of them are correct, but they apply to different ways of mixing color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White light is a composition of every visible color. If you shine a red light at a spot, then add a blue light and finally a green light, the center where all colors add up, is white. This is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Additive_color&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;additive color&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;This applies to all TV, phone or computer displays&lt;/strong&gt; and anywhere where color is made by mixing light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mix red, blue and green paint on a paper, you end up with (at least almost) black, though. Your paints don't work the same way as light. You need to take color away (subtract from the mix) to end up with white. This is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subtractive_color&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;subtractive color&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;This applies to all printers, pens, inks and paints&lt;/strong&gt; and anywhere where color is made by mixing substances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary colors of additive mixing are: &lt;strong&gt;red, green, blue. (RGB)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The primary colors of subtractive mixing are: &lt;strong&gt;cyan, magenta, yellow. (CYM or CYMK)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The primary school art class colors red, blue and yellow aren't even a valid set of primary colors!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dndrz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dndrz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;color wheels&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://images.complex.com/complex/image/upload&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source and more detailed information&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is another example of CYM color wheel that displays how adjacting colors mix:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n6tYI.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Can only 3 colors suffice?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you use high quality inks, the answer is still: no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color wheel is an idealized model based on wave lengths of visible light. We can manufacture color filters that absorb all but a single wave length (color) and mix colors additively in a perfect way. But as far as I know there are no pigments that reflect only a single wave length, which means that there is no paint of a perfect primary color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemical and physical composition of pigments and the binders and additional ingredients in paints influence how the paints look when mixed. Linseed oil, for example, has a slightly yellow tint, which always influences the oil paints it's mixed with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many paints, especially cheaper ones, already contain a mix of different pigments. They may look like a primary color to your eyes, but they physically react different than a pure primary color pigment when being mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most yellows, for example, contain chalk or white pigment to make it more opaque without adding more of the expensive yellow pigment. You'll never get a rich, lush green by mixing a cheap yellow paint with blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side note: that's why the ink for inkjet printers is so obscenely expensive. I dare say that inkjet printing is the closest we've ever come to perfect subtractive color mixing, and it still isn't perfect at all. A printer has to use very pure, high quality ink to be able to mix all colors. And even then you need an additional black ink cartridge because the mix of all 3 primary colors doesn't yield a perfect, opaque black.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to that, it's simply more convenient to have certain colors premixed, because it can be very tricky hitting just the right hue when mixing a color from just the primary colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly, it can be a matter of cost. Especially brown mineral pigments like Umber and certain chemical pigments are cheap to manufacture in high quality, so mixing the same hue from more expensive primary colors is a waste of resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-08-17T17:03:29.930" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T17:03:29.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-16T18:21:40.893" Score="4" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;Concrete for making concrete molds&#xA;concrete cement&#xA;I am trying to make some concrete items such as trays, vases, bowls etc. Can anyone please advise on recipes/ratios for this? I would like to make these in white, black and grey and want a smooth finish (lump free and non gritty)&#xA;I cant get quikcrete in the uk.&#xA;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;James&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9527" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T02:42:48.510" Title="Concrete for mold making" Tags="|mold-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-08-18T14:28:00.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-16T21:09:08.893" Score="2" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only tried baby oil so far for oil pastel painting, I find that it softens the pastels and it's pretty cool.. though the oil could leave a spot. I've heard mineral spirits and turpentine work as an oil pastel blender as well, and I'm wondering how they work differently compared to baby oil? Would they also leave a stain spot on paper? Would they (or any other alternative) make oil pastel painting drier (less smudging) over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9528" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T17:10:02.157" Title="Anything better than baby oil for blending oil pastels?" Tags="|oil-pastels|blending|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8466" CreationDate="2020-08-17T02:19:20.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any downsides when painting with a cyan-magenta-yellow palette instead of the traditional yellow-blue and-red?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with red, yellow, and blue as the building block pigment colors, you can often come close to most of the other colors you may need, but there will be color holes and inaccuracies.  That's because you can't create the primary subtractive colors of magenta or cyan, and red and blue contain the baggage of color components that may not be components of the color you want to create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take magenta as an example.  Magenta looks like it could be created from red and blue (and is actually a mix of red and blue light).  With subtractive color, red is a combination of magenta and yellow, and blue is a combination of magenta and cyan.  So mixing red and blue is equivalent to mixing magenta, yellow, and cyan, with a higher proportion of magenta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is equivalent to a mix of magenta and black (the CMYK model).  If you were to add white to offset the black, it would be a mixture of magenta and grey.  You can't get to pure magenta starting with red and blue because they already contain other colors that you can't remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So CMY is required to accurately reproduce the full range of colors if you need them.  But there's a tradeoff.  It is hard to produce some colors well by combining CMY primary colors.  That's especially true trying to create primary colors of the &amp;quot;opposite&amp;quot; RGB color space.  Combining primary colors tends to produce a muddier or less intense color than starting with a dedicated colorant of the desired color.  That's why high-end inkjet photo printers usually include one or more RGB primary colors with the CMY mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can a limited palette of just these three colours [CMY] and white suffice for painting?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me start by saying that you would probably want to add black to that mix.  Combining CMY pigments is imperfect, producing a dark, muddy gray rather than jet black.  That's why all but the cheapest color inkjet printers add black ink to the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether this pallet will suffice depends on your requirements, but you would probably find it inadequate if you want intense, vibrant colors.  The reason becomes clear if you look at how subtractive color works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RGB and CMYK color spaces are shown in the image below (note that the colors aren't &amp;quot;to scale&amp;quot;; they are more of an abstraction because the full gamut of color can't be reproduced in the diagram):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ww76P.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ww76P.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;courtesy: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.summitprintingpro.com/resources/color-gamma.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Summit Printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is often described that there are colors represented in RGB that can't be represented in CMY.  That's inaccurate.  The difference is in the nature of emitted color vs. reflected color, which those models represent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CMY and RGB primary colors are &amp;quot;opposites&amp;quot;.  Cyan is what's left if you remove red from white light (so it's just green and blue light).  Magenta is what's left if you remove green from white light (so it's just red and blue light).  Yellow is what's left if you remove blue from white light (so it's just red and green light).  On the color wheel, the primary colors for CMY fall between the RGB primary colors, and on the opposite side of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RGB primary colors are the hardest to reproduce in CMY because they are subject to the most degradation.  Reflected colors work by absorbing the light wavelengths of other colors.  You see magenta because green light is absorbed more than the other colors.  You see cyan because red light is absorbed more than the other colors.  If you are limited to CMY primary colors, you produce blue by combining magenta and cyan, and you see blue because that's the light color that's left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what's left isn't pure blue in real life.  There's some green reflected by the cyan and some red reflected by the magenta, the absorption of other colors isn't 100%, and the blue isn't 100% reflected.  You can't reflect as pure or as bright a blue as you can emit from a blue light.  But at least when you start with a blue pigment, you eliminate some of those degradations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you limit yourself to the CMY primary colors (assuming they were the precise colors), it would limit your ability to create some colors well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-02T22:43:05.120" LastActivityDate="2022-04-02T22:43:05.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-17T11:57:52.643" Score="3" ViewCount="4527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use resin a lot and have pigments for them as well. These are extremely expensive though. Is it a good idea to mix acrylic with resin? Has anyone done this? If yes I'd like to know how it turned out and how to actually proceed with this technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5901" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T05:19:47.120" Title="Can I mix acrylic paints into resin?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8473" CreationDate="2020-08-17T12:30:36.180" Score="9" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some cheap eyelet pliers and aluminium eyelets. They produce reasonable attractive results on one side but an ugly mess on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TZNJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TZNJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;eyelet front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tanir.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tanir.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;eyelet rear&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often this doesn't matter as you only see one side, but for cases where you'd like a more attractive result on both sides is there a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9530" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-17T13:16:25.450" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T16:39:46.250" Title="Double-sided Eyelets?" Tags="|tool-selection|technique-identification|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8472" CreationDate="2020-08-17T16:39:46.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The double-sided ones are often called &amp;quot;grommets&amp;quot;.  Good search terms are &amp;quot;fabric grommets&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;fabric grommet tool&amp;quot;.  Amazon has a huge selection, including different sizes and colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grommets consist of two pieces.  One is like a shaped washer that goes on the back. The other piece is similar to the eyelets you're using, but it, and the installation tool, are designed to stretch and flare the eyelet tube instead of splitting it into a &amp;quot;star&amp;quot;.  Once it's installed, it looks fine on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T16:39:46.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8469" CreationDate="2020-08-17T17:10:02.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baby oil/mineral oil will never dry by evaporation like turpentine or mineral spirits ( AKA naptha , VM &amp;amp; P). It will not polymerize like boiled linseed oil or plain linseed oil. It may be drawn into the paper or canvas which could appear to be drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T17:10:02.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8471" CreationDate="2020-08-17T17:50:56.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can mix acrylic paint into resin (I assume you mean epoxy resin), but the results may wary from paint to paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rules apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can mix wet ingredients (paints, inks) up to 10% of the volume of resin into it. Anything more makes the resin cloudy or not cure correctly. Better be safe and limit it to 5%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible, mix the wet ingredients into the hardener before mixing the hardener and resin together. That guarantees even mixing and doesn't shorten your working time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly advice against using cheap acrylic paints, because they contain less pigments and more water than high quality paints, and sometimes additives like chalk. That means they make the resin opaque and you need more paint to reach the desired color of resin, which leads us back to problem 1: your resin could become cloudy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a bad experience with transparent glass color, probably because it wasn't acrylic based. The color didn't mix with the epoxy at all and formed little flakes of color in the otherwise untinted resin instead. Have a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/6124/6316&quot;&gt;result here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good experiences with acrylic colors and food colors. Both tend to mix well with resin, but both can change color quite drastically. Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8197/6316&quot;&gt;my results here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some food colors changed the physical properties of the resin and made it goopy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some food colors didn't mix well with the resin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All food colors changed color in the resin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Food colors are not light stable! They will fade when exposed to light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All acrylics mixed well with the resin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some acrylics changed color in the resin quite drastically, others not at all. I assume you'll face color changes especially with red paints because red pigments are &lt;a href=&quot;https://cen.acs.org/articles/94/i5/Van-Goghs-Fading-Colors-Inspire.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;known to be less stable&lt;/a&gt; than most other pigments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some acrylics are less light stable than others and will slowly fade when exposed to light. The amount of light stability is usually printed as a symbol on the tube of paint (at least on high quality paints).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the least problems at all with powders like cheap eye shadow. It makes the resin opaque, but often adds a shimmer or pearlescent effect and in my experience never changed color in the resin. Be aware that powders sink to the bottom of the mould, which might look odd...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T12:46:08.833" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T12:46:08.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8478" CreationDate="2020-08-17T19:21:58.517" Score="7" ViewCount="1659" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question came up to me when I was watching drawing / sketching tutorials on youtube. Let's say you have to draw a cat, they would start with the legs and then complete the rest of the drawing, whereas I would start with the face... or in case of a bike, they would start with the wheels and I would start with something else. At the end my drawing turns out not that good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a specific way of drawing or is it the starting point that makes the drawing better or, say, more &amp;quot;balanced&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9535" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T08:18:43.287" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T09:20:42.587" Title="Is the starting point in sketching important?" Tags="|drawing|sketching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8476" CreationDate="2020-08-17T20:39:40.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There usually isn't a right, or wrong way of drawing per say, but getting a rough idea of where you want to put it on a piece of paper(For instance if you want to draw a full human body, or a bike) Getting a rough sketch or idea of where everything goes, makes it less of a slip up for accidentally cutting off the head and legs, because there wasn't enough room. Once someone has gained muscle memory in the hand, they are able to accurately guess where all the parts would go, without sketching it out. That takes a lot of practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T20:39:40.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8476" CreationDate="2020-08-17T21:03:09.273" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The starting point is important, but there isn't a single right answer.  What will work best for a given person depends on how they visualize things, and the skills they have developed.  Your result turning out &amp;quot;not that good&amp;quot; is likely due mostly to not yet having developed sketching skills comparable to the artists in the videos.  It takes a lot of practice to become good, and to develop a process that works well for you.  You may even find that as you develop your skill, a different starting point works best.  Experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common starting point is the environment or background in which the subject will exist (at least something crude for placement and scale of the subject).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's useful to start the subject (either before or after roughing in the environment), by crudely sketching the outline or major parts of the subject.  This gives you a basic shape and scale to refine, and against which to develop the detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some skilled artists start with an &amp;quot;anchor feature&amp;quot;, a dominating feature that they build around.  This works best with a lot of experience, where you've developed intuition on scale and how the rest of the subject relates to that feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important element of the &amp;quot;starting point&amp;quot; is that it involves starting; putting pencil to paper and moving it to create some initial structure.  It doesn't make much difference how bad those initial marks are.  They provide a basis for comparison against what you're looking at or visualizing in your mind.&#xA;It's easy to see where those initial marks are wrong or off, they provide something you can adjust.  The eraser is at least as important a tool as the pencil (not to delete everything because you aren't satisfied with it, but to make corrections and iterations to move from the starting point to your objective).  Once you get something on paper, where to go from there becomes a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T21:03:09.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8468" CreationDate="2020-08-18T02:37:38.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use quick-crete mix your own, for one thing you don't want gravel in detailed or smooth are casting, just sand, the finer the better. I have had a lot of success using a mix of sand and marble dust but I was casting giant pacific clam shell replicas so I wanted that very white sparkly surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting it really smooth requires a sealant, concrete by itself will not be perfectly smooth just because of the sand. Using a vibrating table will help a lot with getting a smooth void free surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a pool lining mix ratio since it is a gravel free minimum void mix, something between 1:2 or 1:3(portland cement:sand) but a little experimentation is best. The water ratio is more important, you want as little water as possible, 1:3 or less, but it is effected by climate so again experimentation is best. the DIY stack has help for counter-top cement which is pretty much what you want. &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/90389/whats-the-best-ratio-for-sand-only-concrete&quot;&gt;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/90389/whats-the-best-ratio-for-sand-only-concrete&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard good things about plasticizers but have not used them myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastEditorUserId="2744" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T02:42:48.510" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T02:42:48.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8049" CreationDate="2020-08-18T03:15:35.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sculpey is not good for this, it is also expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;first you want a clay that stays soft, a simple bulk oil-based non-hardening clay tends to work. I prefer softness #4 but there is a lot of different preferences depending on the material being molded, I was working with fossils where cleanup came second to preserving an extremely delicate original. If your original is tough or disposable go with a harder clay &amp;quot;medium&amp;quot; by most sellers, it makes clean up easier. You can heat it to soften it if it is too hard to work with or compromise and go with a &amp;quot;soft&amp;quot; clay. Some people mix their own clay with clay dust and grease but store bought non-hardening clay works fine, I tried it and never noticed much difference.  You want something that is &lt;strong&gt;oil-based and non-hardening&lt;/strong&gt;. if you heat it (and I recommend it) microwaves work OK as long as you get your timing down, don't melt it just get it warm, a toaster oven works better but tends to be kinda of small. I have an old bread oven but I do a LOT of molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't make your clay solid make ropes and build up to your surface leaving plenty of gaps, only the top half inch or so needs to be sealed, the rest of the clay should have gaps to allow it to be pealed away easily. I have also used lego or wood to build up to where the clay surface will be so only the top inch is clay. If using clay all the way through often I line the original with saranwrap or tin foil, so clay is only contacting the inch or so where the seam will be, makes clean up a lot easier. Just make sure it is not exposed or the silicone will wick down that material and waste a lot of silicon. (note if you use foil you don't want to use a microwave to heat your clay, I burned up a lot of microwaves before I got an old bakers oven to heat my clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;using a release agent before putting the original in the clay will help, as will a simple dull dental pick for scraping away any left over clay. The cooler and harder the clay is the easier it tends to come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastEditorUserId="2744" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T03:34:21.980" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T03:34:21.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7785" CreationDate="2020-08-18T03:57:09.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;cyanoacrylate itself will not, however many brands of cyanoacrylate have additives which can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sulfur is your problem. P-silicon and sulfur do not mix.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work primarily with fossils and use completely additive free cyanoacrylate, the downside it has to be used quickly as it has no stabilizers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't use much platinum based silicon just becasue even trace amounts of sulfur in the fossils themselves can prevent it from setting up, but I have used to for artifacts. Likewise trace sulfur in the glue will also prevent it from setting. Any sulfur at all prevents P-silicon from setting up and many brands of cyanoacrylate glue use sulfur based stabilizers. many accelerator sprays also contain sulfur so don't use them if you can help it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tin based silicon tends to be more chemically forgiving, but has greater shrinkage as it ages (months to years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can switch silicon or find additive free cyanoacrylate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T03:57:09.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5445" CreationDate="2020-08-18T04:12:07.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have molded a lot of bone and silicon and one are a messy combination, you have to completely seal the bone before you use silicon. multiple soakings in butvar or acrylic works OK. it is a nightmare with liquid silicon but with putty based it is not so bad, you just need to watch out for voids in the silicon. making a plaster over-mold will be a good idea as large thin silicon molds do not hold their shape well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T04:12:07.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4134" CreationDate="2020-08-18T04:22:12.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Just use a tin cured silicone.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fiberglass and tin-cured silicone work fine, I use fiberglass over-molds (mother-molds) for silicone molds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is only platinum based silicons that have problems, anything that contains even trace amounts of sulfur prevents it from curing, fiberglass included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T04:22:12.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8476" CreationDate="2020-08-18T09:20:42.587" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my drawings, &lt;strong&gt;the starting point is determined by the largest area(s) that roughly capture(s) the basic shape and orientation of the subject&lt;/strong&gt;. I often represent this largest area using basic flat geometrical shapes (circle, triangle, square, rectangle, &amp;amp;c.) that I refine more and more - initially using straight lines - into the silhouette of the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify: drawing a portrait I would try to capture the general form of the head at a certain angle and rotation (often in the simple frontal view); drawing a bike, it would be determined by the two circular/elliptical shapes of the wheels - determinants not only for the shape but for the perspective as well - while estimating the proper relative size of the space in-between the wheels.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In the case of a cat, or any visually amorphous subject (the cat can sit, hang, walk, lie curled up, &amp;amp;c.), trying to find that basic geometrical shape that encompasses the subject is usually a little harder. What I do at times is to try to imagine a flat transparent panel around the size of the subject between the subject and me, and perpendicular to my gaze, on which I then 'project' the subject - basically flattening it virtually. (I hope that's clear, as it often helps me, but it could be a strange idiosyncrasy). Foregoing the limited possibilities of basic geometric shapes, I often start sketching these amorphous subjects in a polygonized way, quickly combining straight lines at broadly defining angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once these outlines or silhouettes are done, it's important to &lt;strong&gt;capture the volume of the subject&lt;/strong&gt; in a similar way, to get a quick idea of the 3-dimensional orientation of the subject. This can be done in a similar way, at times simply by turning the basic flat geometrical shapes into their 3-dimensional counterparts, but often by &lt;em&gt;blocking in&lt;/em&gt; this silhouette (using rectangular shapes that interconnect) or giving it a kind of voluminous sense by adding oriented facets or even simply lines that insinuate perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also often wise to already at this stage get an idea of the complete composition by &lt;strong&gt;roughly sketching in the tonal values of the whole piece&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll always leave room around these basic shapes, not only to be able to accommodate details that protrude the(se) basic shape(s), but also for a generally better looking composition (adding background features or values to situate, scale, and 'embed' or 'ground' the subject).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this only works if you know what you want to draw (and what object(s) you want to emphasize) in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T09:20:42.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3048" CreationDate="2020-08-18T14:48:33.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vinyl and plastic can be tricky to get paints to truly adhere to; if you're looking for an overall recolor of the doll to a fantasy tone, consider dye instead. You won't have any impact on the mobility of the doll, and as it penetrates the outer surface of the doll, you'll see much less wear and tear over time. Dyeing for recoloring has been used regularly in collector communities, particularly with the Dollfie Dream line from Volks and the Obitsu line from Parabox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a dye designed for synthetics, also known as a disperse dye; check the labeling to ensure the dye specifies it's for synthetic fabrics, as union dyes (&amp;quot;all purpose,&amp;quot; and not great at any of them) and dyes for natural fabrics won't work. Commonly available brands in US stores are Rit's &amp;quot;Dyemore&amp;quot; and Jacquard's &amp;quot;iDye Poly,&amp;quot; as well as a large number available online. You'll also need a dedicated pot large enough to submerge the doll (or component parts if you're able to do any disassembly) without it touching the bottom or sides; an old or thrifted pot is great for this, as you should not use it for dye only, never for food. Additionally, you'll want a large bowl of cold water for cooling and rinsing the doll afterward--again, make this a dedicated item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, too, that you'll be layering over the existing color, rather than replacing it with an opaque layer. For both the purposes of practicing the technique, and of getting the color correct, you might want to pick up a couple of similar dolls to sacrifice to testing, before dyeing the &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; doll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to measure and mix your dye to work toward the color you want (more dye for a darker color, less for a lighter one), use hot (boiling) water, and use something to lower the doll in that won't hold the dye (I've used an aquarium net for smaller parts when dyeing different types of dolls, and fishing line or similar non-absorbent strings could work for larger ones--don't make my mistake and use cotton, as it will leave a mark behind where it held the dye longer). For both the test parts and the final doll, you'll dip them into the dye for a period of time (worked out in the test), avoiding the edges (which will cause blank spots, melting, and scorching), then transfer the parts to the cold water bowl and rub them gently to remove residual surface dye. After removing the excess, you can lay the doll or parts on a towel or hang to air-dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forum user elianti has a very detailed write-up of their experience using dye for Volks and Parabox parts at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dolldreaming.com/topic/14998-doll-dyeing-with-idye-poly/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Doll Dreaming&lt;/a&gt; forum that can give you additional details on recoloring dolls with dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T14:48:33.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-18T19:41:07.343" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a Brother XN1700 and have been hitting some problems with looping appearing on the bottom of the fabric. We've tried the following, per the instruction manual and some guides on the internet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decreasing the tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing the tension (just in case we were confused)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rethreading the bobbin and the spool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing and refitting the presser foot holder and the presser foot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked the bobbin hook for any signs of burring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've never broken a needle on it and the problem seems to have come on gradually in the past few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any thoughts on what could be wrong? I'm happy to disassemble it a bit if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9543" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T19:41:07.343" Title="Looping on bottom of fabric while sewing - even after adjusting the tension" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-08-19T13:45:00.637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10438" CreationDate="2020-08-20T11:37:04.717" Score="7" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Parker Vector Mettalix Fountain Pen &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; a ball in its converter.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The Camlin Elegante Fountain Pen does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have a ball in its converter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have both these pens.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the role of a ball in a fountain pen's converter? What happens when the converter doesn't have it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-01T21:22:33.107" LastActivityDate="2021-08-01T21:22:33.107" Title="Function of a ball in a fountain pen's converter" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8500" CreationDate="2020-08-20T14:09:21.987" Score="2" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got Parker Vector Metallics fountain pen. Its grip is very thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use tripod grip. My thumb and index finger touch each other when I grip this pen. This causes kind of irritation and pain in the lower right side of the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to grip a thin pen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T16:51:19.283" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T19:51:04.530" Title="How to hold a thin grip pen?" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-20T17:59:05.607" Score="7" ViewCount="11867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently visited my childhood home and brought back some of my old favorite stuffed animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of them, Snip the Beanie Baby, has noticeable scratches/dents/nicks/chips on her eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fUGHv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fUGHv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front view of Beanie Baby showing scratched eyes&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5aEz3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5aEz3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view of Beanie Baby showing scratched eye&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to repair scratches like these without resorting to a full replacement of the eye?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to know if it is resin vs plastic? If so how can I find this out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; In my case specifically, this toy will remain in a child-free home so I do not have to worry about choking hazards/mouth hazards. I will care a bit about toxicity because she will continued to be snuggled (and thus have human skin contact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T15:09:37.283" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T15:09:37.283" Title="Remove scratches from a (resin or plastic) stuffed animal eye" Tags="|plastic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8488" CreationDate="2020-08-20T18:21:50.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have that particular pen, so I can't view the ball you're referring to.  However, I suspect what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fountain pens work by capillary action; a minute amount of ink is allowed to flow to the nib.  If you tried to refill the pen at that rate, it would take forever (about the time it would take you to use up the ink in the pen by writing).  The converter contains some form of valve that opens when you suck ink into it, and seals when you're not refilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ball is a common mechanism for a valve.  Something springy holds it against an opening so the opening is normally sealed.  Negative pressure inside during refilling pulls the ball away so ink can enter quickly.  However, other kinds of valve mechanisms can be used, or if there is a ball, it may just not be in a visible location in some converters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ball in your converter is free to move around in the tank, then it likely serves a different function.  If you fill the pen with pigment-based ink, there might be a tendency for the ink components to settle or separate if the pen is stored full.  The ball could serve the same function as the mixing ball in a spray can.  Just changes in the pen's orientation when writing and putting the pen down or in a pocket would move the ball through the ink and keep the ink uniformly mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T23:19:35.190" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T23:19:35.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8490" CreationDate="2020-08-20T19:07:54.460" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The eyes are almost certainly molded thermoplastic of some kind rather than a cast resin (casting resins are too expensive and time-consuming for a high-volume, mass market item like these eyes, and are generally risky for items that may end up in a toddler's mouth).  The specific plastic probably depends on how old the stuffed animal is, and where the eyes were manufactured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the plastic, it will be hard to fill the deep pockmarks.  The fill material may not bond to the eyes, and may have a different refractive index so repairs could end up as very noticeable dots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are a couple of things that might make the damage a little less apparent.  You would probably want to remove the eyes for repair and then sew them back in to avoid damaging or staining the fabric (if it's synthetic fabric, the heat suggestion will likely melt it; if it's natural material, polishing the eyes will soil it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat:&lt;/strong&gt; Thermoplastic can be remelted.  You don't want to apply so much heat that the eyes melt into a blob; be careful to use just enough heat to soften the surface.  If the heat is too high, you can scorch the surface, so use a heat gun at the low setting.  Hit the surface for a few seconds until you see signs of the plastic getting shiny.  Then stop and let the eyes cool back to room temperature.  You can repeat this a few times.  This may make some of the damage less noticeable, but don't expect to be able to have deep scratches or pockmarks level out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polishing:&lt;/strong&gt; Fine scratches and damage with a &amp;quot;frosted&amp;quot; look that makes the damage very visible can be improved to make it less noticeable by polishing.  There are plastic polishes, but you can use ordinary toothpaste, which is mildly abrasive.  Polish the surface with an old toothbrush and some toothpaste.  Clean off the toothpaste residue, then buff the surface with a cloth (a soft, natural material like cotton; synthetic materials may scratch the plastic).  It will help, but this won't work miracles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, don't &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; it at all.  This is a sentimental item.  The scars tell a story.  Love it for what it is and its history.  Don't try to turn it into something new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T19:07:54.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8489" CreationDate="2020-08-21T06:43:00.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different people hold the fountain pens in different ways. There is also an opinion that only one person should use a specific fountain pen - because depending on the holding style, the tip &amp;quot;erodes&amp;quot; in a specific way - which makes the experience lees-than-good if it changes hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes kind of irritation and pain in the lower right side of the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever style you use, do not squeeze the pen too hard (between your fingers), and do not press your hand against the able too hard while writing. Both of these will cause pain in the respective areas of the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Almost all my life I used a fountain pen to write (from the age of about 6 until after the age of 23, several hours a day - the fountain pen was my only instrument of writing), so I know what I talk about. During all these ears, I had higher quality fountain pens, lower quality, thinner, thicker, steel nib, gold nib...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite sad now that I write using a computer a lot, and not have an opportunity to use my fountain pens more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: use whatever style is comfortable to you, just do not use too much force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note: occasionally, to the extent possible, take breaks from writing and exercise your fingers, to relax them. Slightly massage the affected areas. Washing your hands, even with plain water, might alleviate the problem to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T08:34:23.600" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T08:34:23.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8490" CreationDate="2020-08-21T06:49:44.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additional to the polishing recommended by &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8492/6715&quot;&gt;@fixer1234&lt;/a&gt;, you can try to apply a thin layer of transparent nail polish - preferably extra-diluted (with acetone) for a shinier / smoother final look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: depending on the exact damage, the nail polish might work even without the polishing. In case you make errors, you can easily remove it with a bit of cotton dipped in acetone. And start all over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warning: this solution might be unsuitable, if children still chew those beautiful eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T06:49:44.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8495" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-08-21T08:36:50.960" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T08:36:50.960" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T08:36:50.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8496" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-08-21T08:36:50.960" Score="0" Body="Used exclusively for questions to which no other of the existing tags applies, which likely means your question is off-topic. &#xD;&#xA;However, on a rare occasion it can indicate that a certain tag is missing. Please provide a clear notification of this in your question, so a moderator or user with sufficient reputation can add the tag(s) for you." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T08:36:50.960" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T08:36:50.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8490" CreationDate="2020-08-21T14:12:04.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to smoothen it out with a solvent. This will not remove the scars but will smoothen them out and reduce the &amp;quot;white&amp;quot; spots caused by fragmented plastic. This will require you to re-polish the eye, after applying the solvent it may become a bit dull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must remove the eye for this process if the bear is made of synthetic materials. It probably is, so you cannot do this with the eye in the socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any solvent you try should first be applied somewhere not-visible on the eye to see if it doesn't change the colour of the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard problem is finding the solvent. You can start with acetone, try it out on the edge of the eye. Another good one is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrahydrofuran&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tetrahydrofuran&lt;/a&gt;, I use it to smoothen and glue 3D printed objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process will require you to dip the eye in the solvent for about 2 seconds, then use brush natural material to &amp;quot;paint&amp;quot; the top layer of diluted plastic over the eye. Then dip it again, shake the solvent away and blow on it. Do not touch the affected surface, it will leave fingerprints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are satisfied, leave it to dry for a day. Only after that you can start polishing the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9551" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T14:12:04.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3956" CreationDate="2020-08-22T22:50:19.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither '&lt;em&gt;landscape illustration&lt;/em&gt;' nor '&lt;em&gt;pen-and-ink illustration&lt;/em&gt;', as mentioned in the accepted answer, are styles: one is the genre, the second the medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having found a high-resolution version of the original picture in your question, it's more obvious the label shows the typical line-and-dot style of etchings or similar engravings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/191PX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/191PX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;detail of bottle label showing distinct lines&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, technically, it's a landscape in &lt;strong&gt;the technical style of an etching&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;artistically it's a realistic line-drawing or line art&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Vague as that might seem, there is very little else to go on here (is it trying to evoke 18th, 19th, or even early 20th century landscape etchings?), as the picture is very demure, lacking any artistic expression, and there is no lighting to speak of. The lines are not rendered to emphasize form, but to imitate a specific technique.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Moreover, the composition is a little weird,  mostly because the wooden bridge - the name of the wine is '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nataliemaclean.com/images/winepicks/c7f6341aaad478d62464c1e810a973f2/original_robert-mondavi-winery-merlot-2008-7461-bottle-1400336211.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodbridge&lt;/a&gt;' - seems to have been forced into the drawing in an unconvincing way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that this was originally an engraving at all: apart from the lack of character just mentioned, there is no gradation in value, and not a single mistake (the lines are completely evenly distributed).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;More evidently, having the bridge, the tree trunks, and other demarcations drawn in continuous lines is remarkable. This could have been done to emphasize the silhouettes of the different objects in the landscape, but that would be strange, since it is unlikely - despite the lack of a light source and shadows - that this illustration was intended as an accurate rendering of the features of a specific landscape (why then would a wooden bridge be so prominently featured?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't surprise me if this image was created by compositing photographs of objects into a photo of a landscape and adding a line-and-dot filter (like those seen in Photoshop) to all elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T09:27:02.437" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T09:27:02.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8514" CreationDate="2020-08-23T17:58:44.233" Score="5" ViewCount="1353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a steel nib fountain pen of Parker. I saw that the gold nib one was more expensive and I thought that gold nib might be for style hence I didn't purchase it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are gold nibs made of? Are they worth the price? Do they serve any other benefit other than style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T07:44:47.893" Title="Gold nibs vs steel nibs in fountain pens - Does it really matter?" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8489" CreationDate="2020-08-23T19:42:39.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finding the right way to hold your pen might simply not work since your preferred way of holding a pen is incompatible with said pen. I hold pens using the (dynamic) quadropod grip, and, although I think it's relatively easy to switch these grips, I doubt that changing grips will prevent your fingers from getting irritated.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think the problem might simply be a relatively large difference between the size of the pen and one's fingers or hand. Up to a certain diameter, one's fingers will always touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, &lt;strong&gt;I suggest to get a '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=pen%20grips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pen grip&lt;/a&gt;'&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGDEs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGDEs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;omni-grip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ccdi.co.uk/portfolio/omni-grip/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find them for pens of any size, and in any kind of size or shape.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can also fashion them yourself out of foam, &lt;a href=&quot;https://the-shed-and-beyond.blogspot.com/2011/01/hand-carved-pen-pencil-grips.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wood&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.penvibe.com/ideas-diy-penpencil-grips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hair curlers&lt;/a&gt;, by rolling rubber bands around the shaft, and a plethora of other options.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've once used old kneadable eraser to get a surprisingly comfortable (albeit slightly sweat-inducing) 'pen grip':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pn8Et.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pn8Et.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DIY kneadable eraser pen grip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Reconstruction. But basically the exact same thing.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T07:20:32.920" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T07:20:32.920" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3286" CreationDate="2020-08-24T01:01:07.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the objective is to engage in &amp;quot;metalworking&amp;quot; and produce a ring, the other answers have that pretty well covered.  If the objective is to produce a metal ring without using machinery or a drill, there are additional approaches available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal objects can be created using a number of different kinds of processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Subtractive:&lt;/strong&gt; The nut ring, for example, starts with a hunk of metal (a big nut), and removes material to leave a ring.  This can be done entirely with hand tools if you have a lot of time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold reshaping:&lt;/strong&gt; This includes the suggestions that involve bending and/or hammering solid metal, in the form of a strip or strands of wire, to change the shape into a ring.  The coin ring needs a starting hole, then it's reshaped.  Reshaping is typically done with just hand tools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casting molten metal:&lt;/strong&gt; the metal is melted and then poured into a mold to create the basic shape of the ring.  It's probably possible to do this in a microwave oven, although it's normally done in a small furnace.  In any event, it requires special equipment, so this wouldn't meet the &amp;quot;no machinery&amp;quot; requirement (unless you make the ring from metal with a very low melting point, like solder, that you could melt right in the mold with a hand torch).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sintered metal:&lt;/strong&gt; This is a process that starts with metal powder.  It's packed into a mold, then put under high compression and heat.  The metal particles fuse together into a solid piece.  This requires big machinery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These four approaches start with &amp;quot;pure&amp;quot; metal.  However, there are several other ways to produce a metal object, like a ring, from powdered metal, using hand tools.  One is a form of sintering that produces a solid, pure metal ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The others are &amp;quot;cold sintering&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;faux sintering&amp;quot;, where the metal particles are held together with a binder.  These processes allow you to use crafting techniques, like working with clay or casting, to produce metal objects.  The main drawback is that the result isn't malleable like pure metal; it can't be reshaped to adjust it without breaking it (but you can take material away or add material to it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Precious metal art clay&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This material is a precious metal dust, like silver or gold, in an organic binder that is workable like clay.  You form the ring with the clay, pretty much like you would make anything from clay, and let it dry.  Then you can fire it with a cheap butane hobby torch.  The heat burns off the binder, and the metal particles fuse into a solid metal object.  After it cools, you can polish it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWKZcnMIjFs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;making an art clay ring using a silicone border mold as a pattern&lt;/a&gt;.  Here's another video not specific to art clay, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWzYcF6EyKo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;making a ring from clay using a system of molds and guides&lt;/a&gt;.  And here's a more general link to &lt;a href=&quot;https://jewelrymakingjournal.com/getting-started-with-silver-clay/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article about making jewelry with art clay&lt;/a&gt;.  These methods also apply to the &amp;quot;Clay&amp;quot; discussion below.  If you have some skill with clay, you can make them more &amp;quot;freehand&amp;quot; rather than the simple method of using a pattern mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Powdered metal in a binder&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These options produce a result similar to sintered metal, but the metal particles are held together by a binder rather than being fused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Clay&amp;quot;:&lt;/strong&gt; You shape the ring from a clay-like material, but it doesn't get fired; the clay cures.  Then you can clean up any fine details with hand tools and polish it.  The most common material for this is metal-filled epoxy putty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal choices are a bit limited.  Steel or aluminum are common, and there may still be a brass version sold for making brass repairs.  I think I've seen stainless steel.  Polished &amp;quot;white&amp;quot; metals look pretty similar; polished aluminum looks a lot like silver.  Not all metal-filled epoxies are predominantly metal, some don't have enough metal to look like solid metal when they cure, even after polishing.  However, I've seen some nice results on the web.  I don't know which product was used, so you would have to do some research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casting:&lt;/strong&gt; This approach uses a metal-filled &amp;quot;liquid&amp;quot; (typically very thick, closer to paste), that you cast in a silicone ring mold (which is cheap to buy, or make your own with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Oogoo&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; Sugru substitute if you don't have casting silicone).  For complex or unusual ring shapes, people often create the ring shape in polymer clay, then create a silicon mold of that for casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;strong&gt;one-part materials&lt;/strong&gt;, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alvinproducts.com/Product-Line/aT/View/ProductID/3/Lab-metal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lab Metal&lt;/a&gt;, that harden by evaporating a solvent.  Lab Metal comes as a putty consistency that can be pushed into a mold, or it can be thinned to a liquid.  It uses aluminum as the metal filler and looks like metal.  Since it relies on evaporation through one edge of the material in the mold, you would need to allow a long curing time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &lt;strong&gt;metal-filled epoxy pastes&lt;/strong&gt; that cure after mixing a resin and hardener.  These are available with a range of different filler metals.  Again, you would need to research which ones look like metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;strong&gt;make your own&lt;/strong&gt; by mixing clear epoxy with fine metal powder (all kinds of metals are available).  You want a very high ratio of metal to epoxy so that the result looks like metal rather than epoxy with some metal in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to mix the heck out of it to wet all of the metal particles.  For thorough mixing of the resin and hardener, they should be mixed first, then that mixed with the metal powder.  So use a very slow setting epoxy to have plenty of working time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, it should be more of a crumbly mixture rather than a paste.  Then pack it into the mold and compact the mixture to force it all tightly together.  Theoretically, epoxy volume as little as 1/4 to 1/3 of the metal powder volume could disappear into the spaces between the particles and produce what is essentially solid metal.  But you would need more in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy will set up quickly, but you can also do this with &lt;strong&gt;resin dissolved in a solvent&lt;/strong&gt; if you have a lot of time.  I did this with a thin polystyrene syrup (Styrofoam dissolved in xylene; essentially the same stuff used to glue plastic models), but you could probably also use something like clear nail polish (typically nitrocellulose in a solvent; might want to thin it a little).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the solvent evaporates, the resin occupies a small fraction of the original volume.  If you use just enough thin &amp;quot;syrup&amp;quot; to wet all of the powder into a crumbly mix, and then compact it into a mold, most of the syrup will be forced into the spaces between the particles.  When the solvent evaporates, the result is a strong molded piece of almost solid metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main drawback is that you need to allow at least a month, preferably several months, for all of the solvent to evaporate.  It needs to migrate through the material to an exposed surface before it can evaporate.  You can speed the process to only weeks if you leave the mold in a warm place (up to maybe 100 degrees F; too hot and rapid evaporation will produce internal gas bubbles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T17:40:49.107" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T17:40:49.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8519" CreationDate="2020-08-24T04:49:00.910" Score="4" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course the paper shouldn't have ghosting and feathering problems, besides that what should I look for in the paper for fountain pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some papers have teeth, some are very thin( school notebooks) yet they don't have ghosting and feathering problems, and some papers are very smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have heard about something called &amp;quot;feedback&amp;quot; w.r.t papers. What does it mean when someone says - &amp;quot;This paper gives feedback when we write with a fountain pen.&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T05:37:01.877" Title="What kind of paper should be preferred for fountain pens?" Tags="|paper|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8499" CreationDate="2020-08-24T06:12:50.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert in this matter, but here is my understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tip of the nib slowly &amp;quot;erodes&amp;quot;, according to the writing style of the owner (that is why some people do not lend their fountain pens). Gold erodes faster, so you will get the optimum writing quality sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if the entire fountain pen is steel / silvery, then a yellow gold nib would look unesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T06:12:50.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8510" CreationDate="2020-08-24T12:12:20.060" Score="3" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certain positions are taught in school for holding a pen (not typically a fountain pen or quill in modern times). A variety of grips/positions can be seen in online photos. For example, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01N6N6ZPQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/awOFVm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/awOFVm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRU9Im.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRU9Im.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two pictures show very different positions of holding a fountain pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different grips will provide different control and comfort. This question focuses on just those two objectives. Ignore, for example, specialized grips that left-handed writers sometimes adapt with fountain pens to keep their hands out of the wet ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question also focuses on just fountain pens, since pressure requirements are different from, say, ballpoint pens, pressure affects the ink line, and writing on fountain-pen-friendly paper often provides less feedback than most other types of pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using joints and muscles in a natural way must also play a role. For example, one grip may not be familiar to the writer, but could be learned and is just as easy on the body as a more familiar grip. Another grip might make your hand tired or painful more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of injury, disease (like arthritis), or other abnormalities, human hands work pretty much the same (ignoring differences in hand size, finger length, and the like), so it seems logical that certain positions that optimize control and comfort should apply broadly to most writers engaged in normal penmanship (excluding specialized writing like calligraphy), and writing characters in the typical range of handwriting size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a grip/position for writing with a fountain pen that optimizes control and comfort, and is recognized as being superior to other positions for most users?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A poor position (e.g. comfortable but reduced control, or that leads to pain after prolonged use), may not be immediately obvious as poor. Low quality writing could be attributed to insufficient practice by a new user, or eventual pain might not be attributed to inadequacies of the grip. A new fountain pen user has no basis for comparison. If it is the case that different positions work better for different people, how do I judge whether the position I'm using is less than optimal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T06:41:15.977" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T06:41:16.277" Title="Is there a single &quot;best&quot; position for holding a fountain pen while writing?" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8504" CreationDate="2020-08-25T05:36:33.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should develop your own style of writing. The most important aspect, is that the hold must be comfortable, especially if you use the pen for long periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other aspects to consider, less important: esthetics, quality of the result (i.e. the writing), the coolness factor, the formal-vs-informal setup when you will use it etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used fountain pens for more than 20 years. I use them less now, since the computer is quite incompatible with them. I speak from my own experience, as well as the experience of my family and colleagues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that holding the pen from the &amp;quot;neck&amp;quot; will allow you better control, e.g. fast writing. Holding it from farther away from the nib would allow you to fuel your imagination and create fanciful text / drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of whatever you write / paint also depends on the position of the hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-08-25T05:36:33.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-26T00:01:32.327" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about the art world. I read from &lt;a href=&quot;http://authenticationinart.org/pdf/artmarket/man-behind-cranach.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://authenticationinart.org/pdf/artmarket/man-behind-cranach.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;The panel [&lt;em&gt;Venus with a Veil&lt;/em&gt; (1531) attributed to Lucas Cranach], sold by Colnaghi gallery in London in 2013&#xA;for €7m to the Prince of Liechtenstein, is now under&#xA;examination by the Centre de Recherche et de&#xA;Restauration des Musées de France at the Musée du&#xA;Louvre, where it can be studied alongside Cranach’s&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Three Graces&lt;/em&gt;, which was acquired by the Louvre in&#xA;2011 and bears the same date. The centre’s verdict&#xA;should be provided soon to the judge.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May I ask what is the result of the examination? I cannot find much online about the results of this specific case. How can there be nothing on Wikipedia?  I have tried searching to find more information about the specific painting. However, I am not very good with Google and either get irrelevant results or results about the seizure of the painting but not the investigation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9562" LastEditorUserId="221" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T07:24:12.053" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T07:24:12.053" Title="What happened to Venus with a Veil (1531), a possible forgery" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-08-26T08:16:55.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8508" CreationDate="2020-08-26T01:52:55.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was confirmed to be a forgery.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://news.artnet.com/art-world/arrests-old-master-forgery-scandal-1649779&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The most recent news I could find&lt;/a&gt; about the story was from 2019, but it indicates that experts had determined that the painting, as well as a number of others sold by Giulano Ruffini, was a modern forgery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first painting identified in the case was a Lucas Cranach the Elder Venus, seized by French authorities during a 2016 exhibition of the collection of the Prince of Liechtenstein at the Caumont Centre d’Art in Aix. The prince had purchased the work from Ruffini.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspicions quickly arose about other paintings sold by the collector. Sotheby’s tapped scientist and art conservator James Martin of the Massachusetts-based authentication firm Orion Analytical to take a look at a purported Frans Hals work, and a painting attributed to Parmigianino. He found both to be modern fakes, leading Sotheby’s to refund the buyers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first saw an image of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Venus_by_Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder,_1531._Oil_on_panel.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Venus With a Veil&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, I thought it looked extremely familiar and very much like Cranach.  I thought I had probably seen it before, but I am not actually a particular fan of Cranach, and I just happened to have seen a lot of his works at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it/en/visita/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Borgese Gallery&lt;/a&gt; in Rome, which has an extensive collection.  It would actually be quite unlikely that I had ever seen one of the master's more obscure works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But no, I had not actually seen it before.  I was instead thinking of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adam_and_Eve_(Cranach)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Adam and Eve&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; by Cranach.  Compare the outlines of the womens' ears.  They are actually almost identical, much more similar than you would expect two of Cranach's ears to be.  Their foot positioning are also eerily alike.  Although Cranach evidently &lt;a href=&quot;https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/collection/renaissance/lucas-cranach-the-elder-adam-and-eve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;liked that pose&lt;/a&gt;, his other renderings of it were not so similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="221" LastEditorUserId="221" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T01:59:59.857" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T01:59:59.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8504" CreationDate="2020-08-26T15:34:33.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Holding a pen is to a large degree a matter of preference. However, the &lt;em&gt;customary&lt;/em&gt; position would be neither of the two pictured and both can be tiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is very close to the nib and will easily get you smudged fingers if you aren’t careful and slip even a bit. A tight grip like that (notice the strongly curved fingers) usually means that the writer’s handwriting is comparatively small and most of the movement comes from the fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very stretched fingers combined with the grip far at the back of the pen will almost automatically lead to larger handwriting, because small movements are translated into bigger strokes. More of the pen’s movement will come from the wrist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The customary grip position, that is for example taught to school kids, is easy to see when you look at fountain pens designed for them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9cn2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pelikan.com/pulse/Pulsar/de_DE.Store.displayStore.211921./pelikano-fuellhalter-blau&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the ridged “grip zone” for the index finger and the corresponding soft zone for the thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to find out what a good position for you and your hand could be, start with a very relaxed hand. You will notice that the fingers and thumb will almost automatically fall into something akin to a loose tripod grip when you place your hand sideways on a table or similar. Just slip the pen into position and you’re ready to get started. Minor adjustments will come naturally when you keep writing, but taking the natural position of your hand as baseline will be best to prevent fatigue and cramped fingers and thus give you the best handwriting and the best experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2020-08-26T15:41:54.073" LastActivityDate="2020-08-26T15:41:54.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5612" CreationDate="2020-08-28T02:04:02.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very similar to the requirements for making &amp;quot;napkin cards&amp;quot;.  It is a popular technique for making greeting cards by adhering the top, decorative ply of a paper napkin to heavy paper or cardstock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common way to do that is to fuse them together using plastic food wrap and an iron.  If you Google &amp;quot;napkin card&amp;quot;, you'll find lots of tutorials and videos.  But the gist of the technique:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Line a heat-proof surface with baking parchment or a few sheets of paper.  Put the cardstock or heavy paper on it.  Cover the cardstock with a slightly larger piece of plastic food wrap pulled smooth.  Position the napkin (or tissue paper in this case), on top of the plastic film (people typically go oversized, then trim the result), and cover with another sheet of baking parchment or paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Iron at a medium-high heat.  First pass, work quickly from the center out to warm the layers and get a little initial tack to limit shrinkage of the plastic wrap.  Then apply heat in each area for 10-15 seconds.  Check it to verify that all of the edges are secure.  Then apply heat to the whole thing again.  Put something large and flat on top, like a big book, and leave it there until the sandwich has cooled to room temperature (5 to 10 minutes), to ensure that it doesn't curl if the paperstock is thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once it's cool, peel it off the baking parchment and trim off any excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there's a chance the result will be exposed to high humidity, it could curl if the paper absorbs humidity on only one side.  You can prevent that by putting another sheet of plastic wrap on the backside of the cardstock (it would be the first layer on the baking parchment).  As the last step before weighting it down to cool, flip over the whole sandwich (including the baking parchment), and apply heat to the backside for 10-15 seconds.  Then weight it flat and allow it to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T02:04:02.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5462" CreationDate="2020-08-28T02:50:02.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those flexible sheet or strip magnets are made from magnetizable metal particles in a rubbery binder.  The mixture is melted and extruded.  After it's cooled down, it's magnetized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the leather and the magnets can both bend, the adhesive should be something that remains flexible, and bonds with both a porous material like leather, and the rubbery binder in the magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best adhesive I can think of for this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://eclecticproducts.com/products/e6000/e6000-craft.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E6000&lt;/a&gt; (widely available at hardware and craft stores, and retailers like Amazon).  It remains extremely flexible and stretchable (so it won't peel off if you bend the money clip), and has aggressive, permanent adhesion to both materials. It is also impervious to moisture (won't be affected by humidity or perspiration, or dropping the money clip in water), and won't be affected by most things you might use to clean the money clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T02:50:02.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8499" CreationDate="2020-08-28T04:04:38.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to gold, it is aesthetically pleasing to the eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems as though the manufacture comes into play when it comes to quality control of nibs and pens. More so than what type of material is better to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Haas Berkeley&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://faculty.haas.berkeley.edu/rjmorgan/openions/does_the_gold_content_in_nibs_matter.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://faculty.haas.berkeley.edu/rjmorgan/openions/does_the_gold_content_in_nibs_matter.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T04:04:38.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8499" CreationDate="2020-08-28T08:36:37.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gold nib fountain pens - invented around 1850 - were originally the standard as early (fountain pen) inks had corrosive properties. Although corrosion of nibs is no longer a problem, gold nibs have other advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pens of all kinds of metal (alloys) are often tipped with 'iridium' &lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;, as the tip will have to endure the most. Apart from thickness and shape, the material qualities of the rest of the nib are decisive for the writing experience, as they determine ink flow and comfort of writing (that is, when compared to similar nibs of other materials on pens of equal size, shape, weight, balance, &amp;amp;c.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gold is the most malleable of the metals, so pure gold tips will relatively easily deform under the pressure of writing. This is why &lt;strong&gt;standard gold fountain pen nibs are made of 14, 18, or 21 karat gold&lt;/strong&gt; (out of 24k), meaning (+/-) 42%, 25%, or 12,5% respectively consists of other metal(s) to strengthen the nib.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Nevertheless, when compared to other nibs, &lt;strong&gt;gold nibs are known for their suppleness, springiness, and a softer writing experience that adapts to the writer's hand&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Golden nibs are also praised for their durability. Gold (alloy) will last longer as it is less prone to corrosion than other metals, but modern steel alloys in combination with most modern inks will wear relatively slowly as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whether golden nib fountain pens are worth the investment is impossible to answer objectively&lt;/strong&gt;: it depends on how often and much one writes, personal preference with regards to the writing experience compared to the (wealth and often comparable qualities of) alternatives and the aesthetics of the precious metal over that of other materials, the cost-quality and cost-durability ratios, and whether or not and to what extent one regards such a pen as a statement and symbol of prestige.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://edisonpen.com/in-praise-of-steel-nibs-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;One author&lt;/a&gt; makes the compelling case that gold nibs are only really worth it when you want the additional flexibility for line variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;* More a synonym for 'fountain pen tip' than the actual metal, see https://www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/wheres-iridium&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;Sources:  &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.penheaven.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.penheaven.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.writeherekitenow.co.uk/news/the-gold-standard-is-a-gold-nib-worth-the-money/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.writeherekitenow.co.uk/news/the-gold-standard-is-a-gold-nib-worth-the-money/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nibs.com/content/what-fountain-pen-nib&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.nibs.com/content/what-fountain-pen-nib&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/fountainpens/comments/4cfflr/gold_nibs_vs_steel_nibs_and_why/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/fountainpens/comments/4cfflr/gold_nibs_vs_steel_nibs_and_why/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://edisonpen.com/in-praise-of-steel-nibs-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://edisonpen.com/in-praise-of-steel-nibs-2/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T08:36:37.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5462" CreationDate="2020-08-30T08:42:55.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your current system fails but you still have the parts, undo the stitching, re-glue the magnets and add a liner layer of fabric before re-stitching the outside of the leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you can do a second row of stitching just around the magnets, making it impossible for them to move as long as the liner layer is whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T08:42:55.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-08-30T20:55:52.300" Score="4" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seem to be two prominent grips for drawing that I have seen - tripod and overhand. I've used a basic tripod grip all my life for writing but have only recently come across overhand. From what I've read, basic tripod appears better for small details, whereas overhand seems to be better for larger strokes (correct me if I've got this wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which joint should I mostly be using with an overhand grip?&lt;/strong&gt; (wrist / elbow / shoulder / a combination).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this grip practical for painting?&lt;/strong&gt; (or is it exclusive to dry medium)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there other benefits to using an overhand grip, apart from large flowing strokes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wh12P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example pencil grips&quot; /&gt;&#xA;N.b., I have generally seen the overhand grip at a larger angle to the drawing surface - a similar angle to the underhand tripod in this image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9298" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-12-02T01:04:40.523" LastActivityDate="2022-12-02T01:04:40.523" Title="What are the benefits of using an overhand grip?" Tags="|drawing|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2020-08-31T17:37:27.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you measure the amount of tooth that a piece of paper has?  I'm imagining the paper analogue of grit for sandpaper.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the sense you're asking the question, the answer is no.  Sandpaper has a specific purpose that's directly related to the particle size of the grit.  It's produced in a huge range of incremental values that allow you to polish a surface by using progressively finer grits to erase the scratches left by the previous, coarser grits.  Theoretically, sandpaper could be made in any grit on a continuous scale if there was a need for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper tooth isn't graded in that way.  &amp;quot;Tooth&amp;quot; is more of a descriptive term, like &amp;quot;roughness&amp;quot;.  Paper comes in a few ranges of roughness for different purposes.  Within those ranges, there is some variation between similar products.  But it's more the case that the paper is made optimized for the end use, rather than made to a specific &amp;quot;grit&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can the amount of tooth be measured, allowing comparisons between different paper manufacturers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper manufacturer has some form of measurement of the paper characteristics for quality control purposes, and you can see differences in the surface under a microscope.  But there isn't a universal standard measurement of tooth, where you could look up any paper and see its comparable measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If not, is it possible for some cold pressed paper to have less texture than some hot pressed paper (i.e. an overlap between the two)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Texture is different from tooth.&lt;/strong&gt;  Texture is a relatively large-scale pattern of irregularity in the surface.  Paper can have a texture but low tooth and vice versa.  Tooth is roughness at a near microscopic scale.  Paper for a particular purpose will have an appropriate combination of texture and tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Different production methods are used for different objectives.&lt;/strong&gt;  During paper manufacturing, different methods can be used to produce paper of different surface characteristics for different purposes.  Very pronounced &amp;quot;geometric&amp;quot; texture (like laid lines or a weave pattern), is often done by making the paper in a mold.  An unstructured irregular surface is often done using a felt blanket or belt with the desired surface texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a smoother surface is needed, a subsequent step passes the paper through rollers or a press.  Whether that is done cold or hot, how much pressure is used, and the smoothness of the surface applying the pressure, affects how smooth the paper's texture will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting characteristics of these methods are distinctly different, and the method is selected based on the type of paper (end purpose).  Hot pressed paper is smoother than cold-pressed, so this method is used when the smoothest surface is desired (there isn't overlap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;level of tooth&lt;/strong&gt; is affected by a number of things, such as the type of cellulose used, but it is &lt;strong&gt;largely determined by the characteristics of the sizing&lt;/strong&gt; applied.  &amp;quot;Sizing&amp;quot; is a treatment typically applied in a bath to the almost finished paper.  It's primary purpose is to control the absorbency of the paper so that it doesn't simply act like a sponge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sources and further reading:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strathmoreartist.com/faq-full/how-is-paper-made.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How is paper made? - Strathmore Artist Papers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://watercoloraffair.com/cold-press-vs-hot-press-watercolor-paper-heres-how-to-choose/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cold Press vs Hot Press watercolor paper - Here's how to choose !&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/types-of-art-paper-surfaces-1123366&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Art Paper Surface Types&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carrie-lewis.com/choose-the-right-surface-texture/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Choose the Right Surface Texture for Your Next Drawing - Carrie L. Lewis, Artist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/tooth-and-texture-defined/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tooth and Texture...defined??? - WetCanvas: Online Living for Artists&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drawpaintacademy.com/tooth/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What Does Tooth Mean In Art&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://nitramcharcoal.com/understanding-paper-tooth-what-to-look-for-in-an-artist-charcoal-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Understanding Paper Tooth - What to Look for in an Artist Charcoal Paper - Nitram Charcoal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/478/8251&quot;&gt;What's the difference between drawing paper and regular paper?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T17:37:27.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8502" CreationDate="2020-09-01T05:37:01.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fountain pen ink is more watery than the ink used in many other types of pens, and fountain pens put a lot of it on the paper.  The combination creates a challenge for the paper that makes it difficult to have the &amp;quot;perfect&amp;quot; paper in every respect.  You typically need to choose what you want to optimize, and use a paper that optimizes that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The challenges created by fountain pens and their ink&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of very liquid ink applied to the paper.  The liquid dries through absorption and evaporation.  If it is heavily absorbed by the paper, it spreads sideways (the lines get wider), and it &amp;quot;feathers&amp;quot; (feathery bleeding so the line edges aren't sharp).  It also soaks into the paper, which can cause it to bleed through to the back (you see some of the ink on the back surface, even the front surface of the next sheet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ink is kept controlled on the surface of the paper, a lot of it requires evaporation to dry, which is a much slower process.  As long as it's wet, it can smear and get picked up by your hand (and transferred to other surfaces).  But once it dries, you get the crispest lines.  In some cases, this can allow you to see a sheen, which some people find desirable.  Even though the ink stays mostly on the surface, there is a lot of it, with a lot of contrast.  If the paper is not fully opaque, you can see &amp;quot;ghosting&amp;quot; of the writing through the paper on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are characteristics that make paper more fountain-pen-friendly.  Heavier-weight paper helps with bleed-through and ghosting.  Smoother paper reduces its absorbency (the fibers are more compressed).  Sizing (chemical treatment, not the paper dimensions), and coatings reduce its absorbency so the ink doesn't soak into the paper as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while super-smooth paper produces crisp lines, it also eliminates most of the friction of the pen nib on the paper, so you lose that feedback -- the feel of the pen moving on the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are trade-offs in fountain-pen-friendly paper.  Some people want the best possible lines.  Others want more of the feel of the writing experience as long as they get good-enough lines.  The crispest lines also tend to be more slow-drying.  The best-optimized papers are somewhat niche products; they can be expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can expand the range of papers that will work well by using fast-drying ink and/or a finer nib.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper Selection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use ink with a very rich color, you might also want to use paper that is extremely white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're starting from scratch and want to try some random papers that you have ready access to, the best results will generally be with very smooth, heavier-weight paper, so start with those.  But not all of them will be good, and there are lots of exceptions.  Much depends on how the paper was made.  It doesn't hurt to try almost any paper you can get your hands on just to see the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, fountain pens have a dedicated following.  There are lots of web sites devoted to using them.  Among aficionados who have explored the available papers, a relatively small number of papers have risen to the top.  I'll include links to a number of sites and paper evaluations and preferences (some have more detailed descriptions of the papers and the specific version recommended; some cover different &amp;quot;formats&amp;quot;, like notepads, stationery, journals, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large number of lists have these papers at or near the top (in varying orders): Tomoe River, Rhodia, Clairefontaine (made by the same company as Rhodia), and Midori,  Also near the top of many lists was Oxford Optik.  One that made a number of &amp;quot;favorite&amp;quot;  lists because it generally works pretty well and is inexpensive was HP Premium Laserjet Paper (especially 32 lb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many stationery stores will provide, on request, a sample pack of a mix of different papers of interest (a few sheets of each one, typically either free or for the cost of postage).  It's a good way to compare high-end papers without spending a lot of money on full packages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further reading:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/blog/the-best-fountain-pen-paper/pt/730&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Best Fountain Pen Paper | JetPens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.inksandpens.com/post/best-papers-for-fountain-pens/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Best Papers for Fountain Pens - Inks and Pens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://fountainpenlove.com/paper/best-paper-fountain-pens/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What Is The Best Paper For Fountain Pens? - Fountain Pen Love&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pennonia.eu/pennonia/in-search-of-the-best-paper-for-fountain-pen-use/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In search of the best paper for fountain pen use – Pennonia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://unsharpen.com/best-fountain-pen-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Best Paper For Fountain Pens | Unsharpen&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nerosnotes.co.uk/blogs/news/the-best-paper-in-the-world&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The best paper... in the world – Nero's Notes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://savoir-relier.com/2019/11/06/what-s-the-best-paper-for-fountain-pens-8/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What’s The Best Paper For Fountain Pens? – Savoir-Relier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rediscoveranalog.com/tomoe-river-paper-is-one-of-the-best-paper-for-fountain-pens-but/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tomoe River Paper is One of the Best Paper for Fountain Pens (...but)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/293150-in-your-opinion-what-is-the-best-paper-brand-for-fountain-pens/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In Your Opinion What Is The Best Paper Brand For Fountain Pens? - Paper and Pen Paraphernalia - The Fountain Pen Network&lt;/a&gt; (just an online survey, but consistent with reports on other sites.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T05:37:01.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8517" CreationDate="2020-09-01T11:28:06.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tripod grips are used mostly for drawing &amp;quot;lines&amp;quot;, whether plain writing of text, or drawing contours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the overhand grip is used mostly for filling areas, e.g. backgrounds. This grip keeps the tip away from the drawing surface, allowing the side of the pencil (or drawing tool in general) to contact the paper. The result is a more uniform spread of the &amp;quot;color&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which joint should I mostly be using with an overhand grip? (wrist / elbow / shoulder / a combination).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the several factors, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your position on the chair;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the size and shape of the drawing area;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the specifics of the &amp;quot;pencil&amp;quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what is comfortable for you;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what result you want to get; moving different joints results in different spread of the &amp;quot;color&amp;quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this grip practical for painting? (or is it exclusive to dry medium)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the brush. If you use normal brush and any tripod grip, applying slightly more pressure results in the hairs bending and getting a result similar to the overhand grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other benefits to using an overhand grip, apart from large flowing strokes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting related: A special situation is when you need to add color inside a large, still wet area. In that case you will probably rest the wrist somewhere outside the painting, and use an overhand grip to apply the color to the desired area. If you need to draw a line in this situation, then it is quite likely that you will need to use a very thin brush, maybe even one with a bent &amp;quot;neck&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T11:28:06.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2020-09-03T01:06:54.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try ensuring that you glue papers of the same thickness as I believe the different gsms (weight of paper) might cause curling as they dry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9368" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T01:06:54.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8499" CreationDate="2020-09-03T07:44:47.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are gold nibs made of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gold. Pretty much truth in advertising, but in terms of usability, 14k is actually better than the higher karat counts, and stainless steel is just fine. 18k is often too soft to have the tensile &amp;quot;spring&amp;quot; required for flexible nibs, while stainless steel is what makes springs, and does just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nibs are usually tipped with a harder substance (iridium was common on vintage pens), to make them harder wearing, and polished to make them write smoothly.  Gold, on its own, is typically too soft for a good writing tip, and would wear out relatively quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they worth the price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on the nib. On a modern pen, though, I'd say no.  On a vintage Waterman fountain pen where the nib is &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; flexible? Absolutely. On a vintage Sheaffer Touchdown or Snorkel, where the gold nib is platinum plated? You bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they serve any other benefit other than style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason for the usage of gold and platinum in nibs used to be corrosion-resistance, but is pretty much as you suspected, for the &amp;quot;office jewellery&amp;quot; factor on modern pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T07:44:47.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-03T19:43:17.643" Score="3" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pattern I’m doing has double knitting in it.&#xA;First off, how do I unravel the cast on stitches w/o unraveling the first rows?&#xA;Second off, it says that all of the stitches go onto one needle, but then it has the pattern. Do I need to switch the back colors to the back needles? How do I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9588" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T16:44:31.377" Title="My double knitting pattern is confusing me" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1750" CreationDate="2020-09-04T20:08:03.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;FLEX PASTE....Tamp into the side holes and then use a brush to cover the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9591" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T20:08:03.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8525" CreationDate="2020-09-05T16:44:31.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your pattern tells you to unravel your caston, it should have also told you to start with a provisional caston. A provisional caston is a method that allows you do easily unravel the caston, turning the beginning of the work into live stitches. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.purlsoho.com/create/provisional-cast-on-video/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a link&lt;/a&gt; to one method of provisional caston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like maybe you didn't do a provisional caston (oops). If that's the case (regardless of whether it's your mistake or the pattern designer's), you have three options to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option one: Pick up and knit stitches from the caston edge, just like you would pick up and knit stitches along any other finished edge. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/picking-up-stitches-cast-on-or-bound-off-edges/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; a source with a photo tutorial. This is by far the easier method, but it will create a ridge or seam that will be visible on the wrong side of the work. The ridge might be completely invisible from the right side of the work, or it might not. It might also be less stretchy than the rest of the work. I recommend you try this method first, and see how it looks and stretches. If you're not willing to tolerate the ridge, rip out your picked up stitches and use the next method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option two: Start by threading a knitting needle through the first row of stitches. It might help to use a smaller size of needle than the one you cast on with. Now find the end of the yarn and start undoing the caston edge. This means finding the next bit of yarn above the loose end, then pulling that bit of yarn until the loose end comes through whichever other bit of yarn it's looped through. Repeat. It will be a slow, painstaking process, and you will quickly learn why special provisional caston methods exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: it's probably not worth the effort to unpick the caston edge. You will very likely get several stitches in before you want to say &amp;quot;F--k it!&amp;quot; and give up. At that point, you can just leave the rest of the caston edge as is, and use the stitches that you picked up already. Some of your stitches here will have a ridge on the wrong side, and some of them will not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option three: Insert the knitting needle through the second row of stitches. Cut the yarn through a stitch in the first row, and unravel that first row. (I know you said you don't want to do this, but it may be your best option at this point. Try the other methods, and come back to this one if they others don't work for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, double knitting is worked with both sets of stitches on one needle. You can set it up by putting all the stitches on one needle, alternating one stitch from the front needle, then one stitch from the back needle, etc. Or you can start with the stitches on two needles, and work the first row, alternating one stitch from the front needle, then one stitch from the back needle. At the end of this row, all the stitches will be on one needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T16:44:31.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8529" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-09-06T10:48:55.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pencils&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pencils&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pencils&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T10:48:55.317" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T10:48:55.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8530" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-09-06T10:48:55.317" Score="0" Body="For questions specifically about graphite as an isolated medium, or its material properties.&#xD;&#xA;For questions involving the use of graphite pencils, use the [pencil] tag." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T10:48:55.317" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T10:48:55.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8531" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-09-06T11:24:59.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/origami&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;origami&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;origami&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/papercutting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;papercutting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;papercutting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper-cutter&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper-cutter&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper-cutter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper-mache&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper-mache&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper-mache&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T11:24:59.357" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T11:24:59.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8532" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-09-06T11:24:59.357" Score="0" Body="Use for questions about paper folded in such a way that it can be animated." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T11:24:59.357" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T11:24:59.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8533" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-09-06T11:32:56.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/surface-preparation&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;surface-preparation&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;surface-preparation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T11:32:56.077" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T11:32:56.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8534" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-09-06T11:32:56.077" Score="0" Body="For tagging questions that concern a preparatory step, i.e. an action that is in itself not the goal of a project, but helps to facilitate consequential steps of a creative project. This includes tasks that are not artistic in nature. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-06T11:32:56.077" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T11:32:56.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2261" CreationDate="2020-09-06T12:05:28.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To reduce the potential effects of yellowing/browning, I use hardware store BLO only with dark colors. I use only art store BLO for light colors. If you don't mind diluting colors with boiled linseed oil, go for it.  It works great on the abstract stuff, usually the very large-sized works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do indoor painting, use walnut oil, instead, which has the least odor of them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never use paint thinner to clean brushes indoors. Refined mineral spirits from art stores may have less odor, but the fumes can still be hazardous to your health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use baby oil to clean the brushes indoors. But make sure not to paint with baby oil. Dip the brush in linseed oil a few times and wipe before using it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, the best tip I have for oil painters is buy the orange grease-removing soap/cleaner sold at automotive stores. It cleans the grease mechanics suffer with, and it does a great job on cleaning your hands with oil paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9598" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-09-07T18:38:34.123" LastActivityDate="2020-09-07T18:38:34.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2020-09-09T17:51:51.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;go-to&amp;quot; material for a lot of people is something that is inexpensive and easy to make using gelatin and glycerin (and sometimes additional ingredients).  It can be used directly or foamed.  You can make a big batch of the material and it will keep for quite a while.  To use it, you melt as much as you need (including recycles from previous use), pour it into a mold and let it cool (if you foam it, I'm not sure what happens to it if you re-melt it; I'm guessing it would retain some of the bubbles, like a partially foamed material, and you could probably re-foam it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/204/8251&quot;&gt;leigero's answer&lt;/a&gt; includes a link that describes a tapioca-based material with gelatin added for strength.  One way the author describes using that material is shaping the cool mixture freehand.  I haven't previously seen a description of using the gelatin/glycerin material that way, so I'm not aware of how well it would work for that process; it's typically poured into a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do an online search on &amp;quot;gelatin prosthetics&amp;quot;, there are tons of tutorials, and recipes people have tweaked to their liking.  The ratio of gelatin to glycerin varies a little, and some recipes include a little water.  The most common additional &amp;quot;active&amp;quot; ingredient is honey or sorbitol.  Some people mix in coloring materials to start with something closely matching skin color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several approaches to foaming, if you want to do that.  One is to add a few drops of liquid soap and then whip the mixture.  Another is to add yeast to the mixture shortly before you use it, which foams pretty quickly in the warm liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few good links to get you started:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.studentfilmmakers.com/creating-prosthetic-appliances-with-gelatin-recipe-for-a-foaming-gelatin-by-todd-debreceni/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creating Prosthetic Appliances with Gelatin: Recipe for a Foaming Gelatin by Todd Debreceni Magazine Article Archive&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Using Gelatin for Moulds and Prosthetics : 9 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gelatin/glycerin material also makes excellent molds for casting many kinds of materials; an inexpensive, reusable replacement for silicone.  Note, though, that there are mixtures optimized for that purpose.  The material optimized for prosthetics is designed to mimic skin characteristics.  If you want to use it for creating molds, you'll get better results with a mixture optimized for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T17:51:51.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2020-09-10T12:51:02.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gave  my friend a dimmer box, originally used for a light. It slows the sewing machine down however much she wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8827" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T12:51:02.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2020-09-15T03:55:25.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m an experimental artist and have had success with this technique plenty of times.&#xA;I use oil and thin in turpentine, not too much though. Then allow 24 hours of dry time then apply an impasto layer of acrylic ; the result is awesome when it starts to crack.  I sealed my work with resin so no flaking happens and yes the resin will make the colors and other subtle layers pop.&#xA;Have fun with painting, experiment with different mediums... see what happens.&#xA;~ finch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9621" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T03:55:25.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-15T12:10:29.380" Score="6" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our business is an outdoor children's nursery and we thought it'd be nice to make a sign with our logo on a large tree round rather than printed on plastic, since it better reflects the outdoor/natural ethos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have some trees that have been felled and another which is due - beech and sycamore - about 2 feet in diameter, and could get a round maybe 1-2&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is our logo (sorry only version I have to hand is small):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYmyk.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYmyk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinking is this (maybe simplified) would be somehow 'etched' into the wood maybe 1/4&amp;quot; deep and 1/2&amp;quot; wide or so, then probably those lines would be painted so we get a colored line-art on wooden backdrop. Burning could be another option but I think we would still like the lines 'etched'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the questions I have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how should wood be prepared in terms of drying and maybe treating?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would the 'etching' be done? Is this a job for a router or something else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this type of craft have a specific name I can read more about?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9622" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T06:59:02.770" Title="How to prepare and carry out drawing line art on a tree round?" Tags="|wood|woodworking|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8543" CreationDate="2020-09-15T15:42:10.220" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the wood dries, it shrinks.  You'll likely get big splits and cracks.  The rule of thumb for a board (vs. a round) is a year of drying per inch of thickness.  Wood dries faster through the end grain but also tends to develop splits and cracks as a result because of the uneven shrinkage (but has less tendency to warp in that orientation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can slow drying by sealing the end grain, but on a round, that leaves a lot of wood for water to migrate through, so drying could take years.  A round two feet in diameter is pretty big and limits some of the tricks that can be used to speed up drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this in a &amp;quot;reasonable&amp;quot; timeframe, my inclination would be to not seal the end grain.  Cut a bunch of rounds and let them dry for about a year until they stop losing weight.  Assume you will get cracks and splits and just deal with that.  Pick the best one to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cracks and splits aren't necessarily cause for rejection.  A common way to deal with them is to fill the gaps with resin.  Colored resin can turn it into a piece of art.  Note, though, that the resin will limit the tools you can use for the engraving, at least on the resin portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carving the logo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a CNC shop, you can give them the round and a computer file of the logo (they will typically be able to create the computer file if all you have is artwork or a bit map image).  They will be able to produce a perfect engraving, with very smooth and precise lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this by hand; it will just require some time and being careful.  A router could be used, at least for the larger lines, but it will be hard to see what you're doing for the small details.  A rotary tool, like a Dremel, would make it easier to see what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even use carving knives and gouges and do it the old-fashioned way.  Unless you are an experienced carver, those tools are likely to give the result more of a handmade appearance, which might even be better for the look it sounds like you want to achieve.  Knives and gouges won't be practical on resin, though, so if you have resin fill where you need to engrave, you could use a rotary tool in those spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terminology&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of related terms you could investigate.  Wood &amp;quot;engraving&amp;quot; is often reserved for fine, shallow cutting used to reproduce detailed pictures.  The lines are cut into the wood (a &amp;quot;negative&amp;quot; image).  &amp;quot;Woodcut&amp;quot; refers to a process where the background is cut away leaving the lines; it typically produces a cruder image.  Patterns of thick, deep lines are usually referred to as just &amp;quot;carving&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-09-16T16:51:12.030" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T16:51:12.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8543" CreationDate="2020-09-16T06:54:04.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut into rounds that big it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; crack. You either need to embrace the cracking or dry even more slowly in a much thicker piece, only cutting later. This is a long term project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Endgrain should be sealed during the seasoning process. This has been covered in some depth at &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/wood-drying&quot;&gt;woodworking.se&lt;/a&gt;, which helped me on a much smaller project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logo of course would work well on a round, but a plank could be split and dried sooner. Even if you accept cracking, the wood still needs to be dried well for finishing with paint, varnish, or resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option for getting the logo on there would be laser marking. This works well on wood, and there are quite a lot of companies that offer it. The effect is darkening of the wood, possibly with some depth. This, like computer-controlled routing, needs a vector graphics file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's going outside, the whole surface should be finished - I'd use a clear coat over everything, whether the design is painted, carved, or burnt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-09-16T07:27:47.893" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T07:27:47.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="352" CreationDate="2020-09-16T20:32:10.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two images in the original question are both images of pointed pen nibs. Within &amp;quot;pointed pens&amp;quot; there are variations - the top image is an oblique nib while the bottom image is an oblique pen - both are great for right handed calligraphers (and personally, my favorite type of pen for calligraphy!) - they are more comfortable to grip when doing long stretches of calligraphy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9311" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T20:32:10.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8550" CreationDate="2020-09-17T13:10:21.970" Score="5" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm toying around with the idea of making an RC lighter-than-air craft, probably a Zeppelin or Blimp shaped one. I'm pretty sure I'll just use a candle or two to get the lift so it isn't a Hydrogen bomb waiting to go off. Anyway, I've figured that I'll probably wrap it with those thin meat bags at any grocery store or tissue paper to keep most of the air in, and use &lt;s&gt;pipe cleaners&lt;/s&gt; fishing line to attach a small box with a candle or two as well as the propulsion system, which will be the circuitry and motors I ripped from a leaky RC boat. With this stuff adding onto the weight, I need a lightweight material to use as the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material needs to be lightweight, cheap, and preferably purchased from a hardware store like Lowe's or a craft store like Hobby Lobby, Joans, or Michael's, but ordering online is okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9629" LastEditorUserId="9629" LastEditDate="2020-09-17T20:05:50.987" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T20:05:50.987" Title="What material should I use for the frame of my lighter-than-air craft?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8549" CreationDate="2020-09-17T15:17:16.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Balsa wood is likely to provide the best strength versus weight ratio of any building material you'll find. Peter Sripol recently posted a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3PU0b8-lks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; of his construction, a rigid airship. Pipe cleaners contain a metal spine adding too much weight, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider to use thin lines for suspending the gondola. Spectra fishing line is made of the same material as the plastic bags and is notoriously strong. Extending from that line of thought, you could use either balsa struts (hobby shop sourced) or suspend the gondola with strips of plastic from the bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peter attempted to use helium but found it lacked the necessary lifting power. It appears that he used aircraft modeling tissue to keep the weight down, but I suspect your idea of using super thin plastic is a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ordinary &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Color-Scents-Small-Trash-Bags-4-Gallon-80-Bags-Twist-Tie-Lavender-Scent/339479948&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;small trash bags&lt;/a&gt; purchased from a big box store. Only yesterday, I measured the thickness of the plastic at 0.0007 inches, 0.0178 mm which may be the thinnest stuff one could find. The bags are relatively large when slit down one side and the bottom, easier to use than a grocery bag, which I now measured at 0.0008 inches thick. At US$4.48 for a box of 80, it's low cost and readily available. If you require a larger contiguous surface area, the same manufacturer offers an 8 gallon size, but I cannot attest to the thickness of that product. There are no specifications for thickness in the product listing. My figures come from direct measurement with a micrometer capable of reading to one ten-thousandth of an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkiY8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkiY8.png&quot; alt=&quot;bag of bags&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home Depot lists 0.7 mil (0.0007 inches) drop cloth but I know that the material is not as durable as the trash bags from WM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peter Sripol eventually used hydrogen to get the necessary buoyancy for his vessel and typical of Peter, he ignited the craft during its (obviously) last flight. Hydrogen does not explode, but it will burn as it gains access to oxygen. An explosion would require a suitable mix of oxygen and hydrogen, but your dirigible would/should be inflated with only the one component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I did a quick search for black plastic drop cloth and found I was wrong about the thickness. There's some four mill stuff out there. I suggest black if you don't have an objection, as you'll get solar heating benefit as well. There are also those &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JzdERxpzes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;solar balloons&lt;/a&gt; that work on the same principle. Inflate, expose to sunlight, watch them float away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2020-09-17T18:36:35.597" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T18:36:35.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8552" CreationDate="2020-09-17T21:12:25.970" Score="4" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to cut a piece of metal in the shape of a pickguard, then have it professionally chromed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of metal material should I use? Can I get it at a hardware store or it is specialty metal? I will need to drill several small holes, I'm assuming this should be done before chrome plating?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a minimum thickness that I need in order to hold the chrome plating? Pick guards are usually around 1/10 inch thick, but there's no reason why I couldn't go a little thicker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should I expect to pay for the chrome process? The item itself would only be less than 1x1 feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other things I should be aware of before I start this project?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any insight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9632" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T05:51:33.213" Title="What is the Best Material for Chrome Guitar Pick Guard?" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8551" CreationDate="2020-09-18T06:35:40.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to cut &lt;strong&gt;a piece of metal&lt;/strong&gt; in the shape of a pickguard, then have it &lt;strong&gt;professionally chromed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chrome will go away quite fast, considering the abuse it will have to take - regardless how kind and attentive you are while playing the guitar (also depending how much time you play that guitar, and the material and quality of the pick itself). Unless you &amp;quot;professionally chrome&amp;quot; that metal every few months / years, the base metal will be there smiling at you all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best advice is to use &lt;strong&gt;stainless steel&lt;/strong&gt; - it is metal, it is strong, it looks like chrome and it does not need any chroming. It might be more expensive for the beginning, but it will need zero maintenance afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheaper alternative is to use &lt;strong&gt;copper&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;aluminum&lt;/strong&gt;. They are easier to find (I saw aluminum sheets myself quite often in generic home-repairs and gardening shops), easy to cut and polish, easy to chrome. Aluminum also is very light, it will not break the back of the player with the extra kilograms. &lt;strong&gt;Brass&lt;/strong&gt; also comes to mind, as a base material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-09-21T05:51:33.213" LastActivityDate="2020-09-21T05:51:33.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8554" CreationDate="2020-09-18T09:58:02.587" Score="5" ViewCount="889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a beginner, and I'd like to paint a ghost with oil paints. The effect that I want is something similar to this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHqhQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHqhQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference would be that my ghost should be purplish. But that's only a detail, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know the steps I should take. For instance, for all I know, I would start by painting the landscape — all of it — which in this case is a forest. Then, once the paint is dry, I would add my ghost with a very thinned colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this the right procedure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What thinner would you recommend? Can I just add as much thinner as to get an almost transparent colour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I also read that thinned paints should not be used as last layer since they tend to crack. So, how can I avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9619" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-19T16:25:47.810" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T21:05:11.377" Title="How to paint a ghost with oils?" Tags="|medium-selection|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8553" CreationDate="2020-09-19T10:59:17.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Painting the background first and then adding the ghost indeed sounds like the right procedure. That way you'll ensure the transparency of the ghost is realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like you mention, be sure to let the background dry long enough first before proceeding with painting the ghost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To thin down the paint, I'd recommend simply using a little additional oil and even less solvent, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glaze_(painting_technique)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glazing&lt;/a&gt; the paint.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Even though increasing the amount of oil will increase the drying period - and you need to store the painting horizontally in a dust-free environment during this time - the risk of ruining the background is minimized. You can add quick-drying medium to speed up the drying process.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Using excessive amounts of oil in relation to pigment and solvent might cause the dried paint to be glossy, so to prevent this you need at least a little thinner in the mix.&#xA;It's hard to give straightforward advice on the amounts, though, since there are a lot of variables weighing in here. You can always experiment with processes like these by replicating them using similar materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a thinner, paints already applied (in the background) &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; dissolve, depending on the drying time and pigments used, and mix with the current layer (the ghost), potentially causing both layers to lose their integrity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the &lt;strong&gt;type of thinner&lt;/strong&gt;, it doesn't matter that much when mixed with larger amounts of oil, I think. I've used turpentine and white spirit, and am currently trying out lavender (or spike) oil, which acts as a solvent, but is environment-friendly and non-toxic. It dries somewhat glossier than the other solvents when using it for glazing, in my experience, however. For that matter, if you have a well-ventilated workroom, I suggest white spirit, as it is the most matte-drying, and I think it dries the quickest as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you plan on ultimately varnishing the painting using a glossy varnish, all these comments on the specularity of the paint mixtures don't really matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also read that thinned paints should not be used as last layer since they tend to crack. So, how can I avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's very strange advice, and the context seems quite important to me (e.g. what defines &amp;quot;thinned&amp;quot;?). Can you find that passage again?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As far as I know like almost all other painters, I usually thin all of my paints. The application of oil paints is based on this premise; since oil paints generally are no longer mixed manually by artisans, the manufacture of tubed versions necessitates they be highly concentrated, to facilitate their use (we can't practically increase the concentration, but we can thin it down).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fat_over_lean&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fat-over-lean&lt;/a&gt; rule applies here, meaning the closer you get to the surface layer, the fattier the paint applied should be to prevent it from drying before the underlying layers have dried. This can mean that the oil paints are used increasingly pure from the tube (as opposed to being mixed with thinner, which will make them leaner), but the artist can also decide to add additional oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-09-19T10:59:17.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2020-09-20T12:35:28.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will realize that even white objects and clothes under dark lighting appear greyish-white which gives you an advantage. To shade dark scenes perfectly ,you will need to have a variety of pencils which are of different darkness and hardness.&#xA;(H pencils are hard and they leave less graphite on the paper. This means that they are lighter. B pencils are softer and leave more graphite on the paper, meaning they are darker[as stated in google])&#xA;You can use the 6B-12B pencils for backgrounds and walls, and HB pencil for most of the art work. For the clothing you can use 2H-6H pencils which are very light to create some kind of contrast which is what you need. Your shadows however should be a little darker than the background otherwise they will not be visible.&#xA;The path as well should either be darker or lighter than the side walls. You can opt to make the sky and the pathway darker and then the side walls lighter or vice versa to create contrast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9640" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T12:35:28.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2020-09-20T12:43:48.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the out come you want to get.&#xA;for instance; You can not use straight lines shading to draw a wave, or circular shading to sketch a net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your shading hair you will have to move from up to down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its a wave you will have to shade in circular movements&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your shading a road from west to east you can use straight lines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your doing net-like lines on a clothe,start with longitudi.nal lines then latitudinal lines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9640" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T12:43:48.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-22T08:51:00.833" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to create a t-shirt with colour blotches on a plain black t-shirt, a bit similar to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22Sin.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22Sin.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The t-shirt is cotton. Now my question is what type of colour to use. I'm considering synthetic resin varnish, do you think this would be durable enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9647" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-22T09:26:49.787" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T14:49:04.170" Title="What kind of dye or paint for t-shirt design?" Tags="|material-selection|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-22T13:39:57.243" Score="8" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of hobby crafting for tabletop gaming that involves painting miniatures and building scenery (think model railroad hobbyists). In this craft, there is a lot of need for washes of different sorts that fill in crevices and crannies for developing shadowing and texture. I have some tempera paints that were gifted to me, but I don't have much of a use for them and was thinking I could make them into washes of different colors since they are already very thin. Has anyone tried tempera paints for this? Will the paint hold up if painted over with acrylics? Will they be washed away when I attempt to seal my work (usually with Mod Podge and/or polycrylic)? I suppose I can experiment a little bit, but I thought I'd see if anyone else has attempted this before putting time into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9650" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-09T18:46:20.140" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T13:52:19.163" Title="Tempera Paints for Making Washes?" Tags="|painting|miniatures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8558" CreationDate="2020-09-22T14:49:04.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you want the shirt to actually be wearable? If so, then &amp;quot;synthetic resin varnish&amp;quot; is entirely the wrong option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For wearable clothing, you need a color that bonds with the fibers to endure wear and washing, but also remains soft to allow for comfortable wear. The best option for something like this would be a &lt;strong&gt;standard acrylic paint with a high opacity mixed with a fabric medium&lt;/strong&gt;. The paint will provide the color, the opacity will allow it to stand out brightly against the black background, and the fabric medium mixed correctly helps the paint bond with the shirt's fibers instead of sitting on top. You could also use a &lt;strong&gt;dedicated (pre-mixed) fabric paint&lt;/strong&gt;, which is often available in brighter opaque colors. Both these options are widely available at craft stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional option for adding designs to shirts is &lt;strong&gt;silkscreening ink&lt;/strong&gt;, but fewer opaque pigments exist (bright colors on black are usually a double layer printing with an opaque white base). Because you're looking for bright colors in a splashed pattern, this is less likely to get the result you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T14:49:04.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8553" CreationDate="2020-09-22T21:05:11.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to glazing the ghost on top of a finished background painting you could also paint the ghost into the work directly using &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;color&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this approach you would decide on what colors the background would shift to when passing through the transparent purple film of the ghost. Then paint the ghost's figure and draping in with those new shifted colors as you paint the background around it as you would normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit with this method is that the ghost would be much more grounded in the &amp;quot;reality&amp;quot; of the painting, and you could be more expressive in its depiction. It could be darker or much lighter and appear more saturated while still being &amp;quot;transparent&amp;quot;. You could blur or deform the details of the background when seen through the ghost. And there would be no loss in any vibrancy of the color in the ghost areas that could result when layering colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T21:05:11.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8543" CreationDate="2020-09-22T21:48:18.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an possibly less expensive solution &lt;strong&gt;sandblasting&lt;/strong&gt; the logo into the wood could work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A resist stencil from your logo would be made to mask out the raised areas, like the type and fawn drawing, then the background would be sandblasted out. It would be easy to then (spray) paint the whole sign the background color, and then with a roller or some other method, paint the raised areas in a contrasting color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T21:48:18.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-23T10:31:39.210" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;: I never built a functioning kite (I had a few attempts, as a child), I never successfully raised a kite (no stable wind with enough force when a ready-made kite was available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current situation&lt;/strong&gt;: I had an idea to finally build a working kite, BUT also to be able to raise it as high as possible - maybe several kilometers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: what kind of &lt;strong&gt;rope&lt;/strong&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;thin&lt;/strong&gt; enough and also &lt;strong&gt;strong&lt;/strong&gt; enough to make my plan successful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that for low heights, strength is not an issue, but for my plan, the situation is different. On the internet I found information more about the kite itself, and about how to tie the knots, rather than the better materials to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I have in mind also the volume and the weight of the said rope, since I will have to transport it somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other related questions &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8564/rolling-the-rope-of-a-kite&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8565/how-to-make-kite-line-more-visible&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-09-24T13:31:31.813" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T13:31:31.813" Title="Strong thin rope for kite" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-23T10:45:18.240" Score="0" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;The base question of the problem is &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8563/strong-thin-rope-for-kite&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Another related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8565/how-to-make-kite-line-more-visible&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional to the material of the rope, I also need to be able to deal with the said rope when lowering the kite, when the fun gets to an end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rolling a few tens or hundreds of meters by hand, might be doable. Rolling a few kilometers of rope by hand, should be a serious physical challenge, I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional to the rolling itself, some actual force might be needed to lower the kite, as it might not want to come down. Which complicates the problem even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, one solution is to have an entire team of people on the problem - which is far from what I have in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other solution is to have some kind of help (mechanism?) to help me deal with the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an idea about using the wheel of the car for this purpose (actually, one of the powered wheels, still attached to the car), but it has several drawbacks. The main con reason is safety related - it is plain dangerous. Also, the car might not be allowed at the site of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also amused myself trying to find a way to use an accumulator-powered electric screw-driver. The main issue is that it is asymmetrical, the screwdriver being on only one side. And will the accumulator have enough energy? It seems that at least 2 people would be needed in this case also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having an entire setup with combustion engines and gears is cool (and more suitable for the Engineering site), but I had in mind something more like &amp;quot;crafting hack&amp;quot;. That is why I added the question here. It also does not really fit in the Lifehacks site, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T16:53:05.493" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T16:53:05.493" Title="Rolling the rope of a kite" Tags="|tool-selection|tool-fabrication|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-23T10:54:38.287" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main question is &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8563/strong-thin-rope-for-kite&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Other related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8564/rolling-the-rope-of-a-kite&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When rising a kite even a few tens of meters, some danger might exist: low flying helicopters, utility planes, hang gliders etc. might hit or get tangled into the rope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the height increases, the length of the rope increases (duh!), and thus the risk of accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make the rope visible, or at least &amp;quot;warn&amp;quot; intelligent fliers that something is there to be avoided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think of attaching something visible to the rope every XYZ meters, so anyone could understand easily the &amp;quot;trajectory&amp;quot; of the rope and avoid it. What should I use? How should it be attached?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of attaching some ribbons to the rope (similar to the &amp;quot;tails&amp;quot; of the kite), every maybe 50 meters. But they will make rising and lowering the kite difficult, and they would add greatly to the volume and length of the rope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I did not even take birds into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: As a result of the answers posted, I understood that a better solution might be to apply on the line (every X meters) something highly reflexive (maybe even fluorescent / phosphorescent): &lt;strong&gt;paint&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;silicone&lt;/strong&gt;... So the line would look like a necklace, with the beads spaced a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no problem for me to mix sone transparent silicone with some &lt;strong&gt;reflective dust&lt;/strong&gt;. What should that dust be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2020-09-28T07:06:00.010" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T07:06:00.010" Title="How to make kite line more visible?" Tags="|material-selection|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8563" CreationDate="2020-09-23T12:38:20.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kite string is a product. It is designed to be strong and light to enable kites to fly under optimum conditions. For ordinary kites, ordinary kite string is sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High performance kites (large lift capability, stunt/performing kites) require higher breaking strength while retaining light weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spectra line is constructed of high density polyethylene and is quite light and strong. I have used 1 mm thick x 2 mm wide Spectra line which had a breaking strength of 700 pounds. Another feature of this type of line is that it has very low stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of multi-line stunt kites, it's critical to have the lines remain at a specific length in flight. Spectra does this well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spectra is a brand name and the product can be found under other names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T12:38:20.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8564" CreationDate="2020-09-23T12:50:26.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears from your question development that you are considering something other than the typical &amp;quot;children's&amp;quot; kite in your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your additional information indicates that the aforementioned Spectra line would be a good choice. Light weight, low volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My use of the line was for a tow system to launch paraglider and pilot to about two thousand feet AGL. 700 pound test was sufficient to do so and about five thousand feet of line was needed, as the winch pulled in line as the paraglider and pilot climbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The winch was constructed from a Yamaha motor scooter, one with an automatic transmission, which adjusted for the load by reducing the internal gear ratio. The rear wheel was removed and flanges were added to convert it to a winch drum. This is not too far off from your thought of using an automobile, although it was easier to move a trailer with the scooter mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Critical to the design was a fairlead to ensure that the line was pulled straight from the drum and returned in a straight line during retrieval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to consider the winch drum as your start point and build from there. Bearings, axle, support members all will attend to the one-sided aspect of power. If the magnitude of your project is as great as it seems, you will not have sufficient power to retract a kite by using an electric screw driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many electric bike kits on the market and you may be able to use a higher powered motor from one of those. A number of benefits also apply in that you'd have a controller plus the bearings and axle incorporated in the design. A sturdy frame, perhaps more sturdy than a conventional bicycle would provide the support members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim could be supplemented by flanges turning it into a winch drum of substantial diameter. It may be necessary to use a gearing system from a motor in order to get sufficient torque to retrieve a kite under some high wind conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that wind gradient is a factor for high flying kites. You may have light to moderate wind at ground level, but as altitude is gained, the kite will experience much higher levels of wind. This is caused by the reduction of friction with the ground as one gains altitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T12:50:26.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8565" CreationDate="2020-09-23T12:54:30.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will find a number of kite forums on the internet. Common to many is the consideration that one does not fly in areas known to have substantial air traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This includes airports and hang gliding (and paragliding) sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding tails/ribbons to the line will not increase appreciably the visibility of the kite line to pilots, but it will increase the drag both for gaining altitude and for retrieving the line. Birds may be the only entity that would benefit from flagging the line. In the past years of kite flying, I've only had line contact one time, at the beach, by a seagull and it tumbled a bit and continued on its way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider to ask a moderator to migrate your three questions to the engineering SE as it appears to fit that category better than Arts &amp;amp; Crafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the suggestion of another answer-poster-person, my comment to attach a battery operated/powered emergency strobe (typically 360° visibility) will improve the visibility of a kite. Aircraft have beacons for this reason and pilots will react more effectively to such a lighting device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01BPJLCMY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YGWIQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YGWIQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;emergency strobe light&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2020-09-24T21:44:36.667" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T21:44:36.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8565" CreationDate="2020-09-23T21:53:01.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Limitations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about any kind of piloted aircraft, the human eye is pretty limited in seeing small/thin objects from a distance, especially while moving and focusing on more distant objects, like the ground, or huge structures like mountains, roads, or buildings.  Moving at high speed, the aircraft also can't turn on a dime to avoid a line when it suddenly becomes visible.  As fred_dot_u describes, the practical solution is to avoid areas where any form of aircraft could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the question acknowledges, any form of fluttering ribbon will add drag and complicate management of the line (and unless they are large, won't add much benefit in visibility).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, if you want to make the line more visible, I can think of an approach that could help.  Eyes can see points of light that are smaller than the minimum visual angle normally required to detect an object (it's why we can see stars in the night sky or detect sunlight reflecting off a tiny, distant shiny object).  Eyes also detect patterns even when the elements of the pattern are tiny and would be ignored if they were random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can capitalize on these effects.  Wrap the line with a spiral of aluminized Mylar ribbon (long strands of tinsel if you don't have a source for a spool of ribbon).  On a day with bright sunlight, that would make the line detectable from a much greater distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more of the line that is covered, the more visible it will be; you would need the line mostly covered to have any utility.  But the windings can't create a solid tube or it won't be flexible; you need separation between adjacent strands of wrap.  You would need to adhere the ribbon to the line to keep it in place during use and spooling/unspooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spiral of glued-on ribbon will still be flexible, but it will affect the handling.  It will add bulk and weight to the line if you're planning on kilometers of line, and would make it less flexible than a &amp;quot;naked&amp;quot; line.  It would also be pretty time consuming to wrap kilometers of line.  You could reduce the drawbacks by wrapping only the portion of the line that will be high enough to create a risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Variation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a comment, fred_dot_u suggested a variation on this.  Building on that idea, you could attach tinsel pom poms to the line near the kite rather than trying to wrap much of the line.  Perhaps the first three meters or so from the kite, you could attach 30 cm tinsel pom poms at an interval of say every half meter.  That would create some drag, but it would be limited to a relatively short length of line that you wouldn't worry about trying to spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this approach (or the emergency beacon on the kite, as suggested in another answer), only mitigates risk for a pilot flying at close to the altitude of the kite.  If the kite is at a kilometer or more and the pilot is flying much closer to the ground, something only on or near the kite won't provide much line protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scale&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any passive measure like this, let me add some thoughts about scale.  People tend to misjudge scale outdoors.  If the idea is to alert a pilot to avoid the kite and line, you don't want something that will startle the pilot when it suddenly becomes visible and close.  That could result in hazardous emergency maneuvers.  The pilot needs to become aware of it while they are at least the equivalent of a few city blocks away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of traffic signals (a three meter string of pom poms that size will be about the same scale, equivalent to three traffic signals stacked end to end).  If you're driving, you know they're there and look for them (unlike flying over the great outdoors).  From several blocks away, you can see a collection of traffic signals but they're pretty small.  Still, something that size in the pilot's path reflecting sunlight should be spotted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-09-24T23:29:23.850" LastActivityDate="2020-09-24T23:29:23.850" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8571" CreationDate="2020-09-24T13:43:51.720" Score="3" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rOtring Rapid PRO 0.5 and I have bought Faber-Castell Super-Polymer 0.5 mm B leads online which arrived in the post and seem to be fine. I load a couple into my rOtring but each time I click, it seems to break the lead and a little piece about 1–2 mm long just falls out. This makes the pen unusable. Is it the leads or the pencil which causes the breakage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9656" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-25T06:07:54.440" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T06:19:55.243" Title="Why do my 0.5 mm pencil leads shatter?" Tags="|pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8570" CreationDate="2020-09-24T16:47:42.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unusual for the problem to be the pencil unless it's been damaged, like by dropping it on the tip.  The most common issues are remnants of old leads being pushed out by the new lead, a jam, or defective leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by releasing and dumping all of the leads and lightly tapping the back end of the pencil on a hard surface to encourage any lead fragments to fall out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about rOtring, but many 0.5 mm pencils come with a cleaning wire (often stuck into the backside of the eraser).  If it didn't come with one, find a thin straight pin or piece of stiff wire thin enough to fit into the tip.  While depressing the feed actuator all the way to open the feeding collet, slide the cleaning wire through the tip to dislodge any lead remnants that might be stuck, inserting it far enough to go all the way through the tip and feed mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have anything to use as a cleaning wire, disassemble the pencil all the way to the feed components.  Inspect everything to ensure there aren't lead bits stuck in anything, or lead dust packed somewhere.  Then reassemble it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a good lead and carefully insert it through the tip while fully depressing the feed button to open the feed mechanism.  Push the lead all the way in so only a normal amount of lead is exposed, then release the feed button.  Work the feed button a few times to verify that the lead feeds without breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it works, you're done and can load in some extra leads.  Don't overload the pencil with too many extra leads, though.  The spare leads need room to move in order to load when you finish the previous one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lead breaks when you try feeding it, try again loading a harder lead.  If that feeds without breaking, the problem is the leads.  It could be a bad batch.  If the hard lead also breaks, that would point to the pencil being damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-09-25T06:19:55.243" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T06:19:55.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8573" CreationDate="2020-09-25T21:37:41.603" Score="3" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two squares of neoprene rubber as non-slip mats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needing a larger area, I bought a large piece off of a metre-wide roll.  On arrival, instead of the slightly tacky shiny finish of the smaller mats, it has an oily residue over its entire surface, both sides, and is matte in appearance.  Have I bought different materials or is the newer larger piece &amp;quot;unfinished&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If unfinished, how would I go about preparing it to have similar non-slip qualities as the older, smaller pieces?  I have considered washing it in soapy water in  hopes the residue is only on the surface, but not sure if this is the correct or wise approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9662" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-09-25T22:48:59.833" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T23:13:40.040" Title="Neoprene rubber finishes" Tags="|material-identification|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8572" CreationDate="2020-09-25T23:13:40.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of variations on neoprene.  It can have different additives that affect characteristics like softness and surface appearance.  Sometimes it is bonded to a fabric.  There are variants that are very soft and a little tacky that will grip a surface for extreme non-slip.  But as long as it's rubbery and soft enough to conform to the surface, it will act as a non-slip material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oily residue could be either oil of some kind used in the manufacturing, or an additive that's leaching out.  Many rubber and plastic materials will release some additives, either mostly right after manufacturing or much later, as the material ages.  In some cases, it's designed to work that way to serve a purpose, like acting as a mold release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neoprene doesn't receive a &amp;quot;finish&amp;quot;.  Whether the surface is shiny or matte, that's the characteristic of what was made.  You can't change that, or the tackiness, later (although you could apply some temporary adhesive to make it tacky if that's required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oily residue, though, can be cleaned off.  It's a contaminant, not part of the neoprene.  There are a few solvents that will damage neoprene, but soapy water or alcohol will be safe for cleaning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-09-25T23:13:40.040" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8543" CreationDate="2020-09-26T22:31:27.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the hard part of this process will be translating the logo onto the tree trunk / log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Drying&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As many have said, this is largely a process of patience.  If your aesthetics can stomach it, you can affix a metal strap around the top and bottom of the section of the tree trunk, in order to minimize splitting.  This is akin to how a barrel has metal bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Image Transfer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to accomplish this is to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print the logo on paper, at the exact size you wish it to be on the tree trunk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then place and wrap it where the logo should be, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tape the corners to the tree trunk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take your tool (chisel, wood-dremel, etc) and carve through the paper into the tree trunk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really all there is to it, but there are a few techniques that can make it easier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can place pins through the paper, into the trunk, near to the pieces that you'll carve away. This will also allow for the stencil of the paper to remain in place while parts of it are removed in the cutting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or, you can use a small bit Elmer's glue to affix all of the paper to the trunk.  Then after the cutting is done, sand off the paper with a fine grain sandpaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using pins, you can retain the natural surface of the wood.  This is preferable e.g. if you want to maintain the bark (it'll probably rot off over the years, though, unless you lacquer it heavily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By sanding the glue+paper off, you force yourself to sand all of the tree trunk, or be content with the aesthetics of a sanded area around the logo.  You can make the sanding an artful process, too, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T06:59:02.770" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T06:59:02.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8576" CreationDate="2020-09-26T22:34:23.807" Score="3" ViewCount="2855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased Modge Podge, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001681Z8Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001681Z8Q/&lt;/a&gt; to attach post it notes to muslin cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was working on plastic crafts table. Now Modge Podge is sticking. How to clean it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2021-03-28T14:02:36.753" LastActivityDate="2021-03-28T14:02:36.753" Title="How to Clean Mod Podge off Plastic Crafts Table" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8575" CreationDate="2020-09-27T01:25:44.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mod Podge is a lot easier to clean off before it dries.  The version you linked to for fabric is designed to hold up to washing.  The instructions say it will stand up to hand washing, but user comments discuss it holding up to numerous cycles of machine washing.  So it sounds like removal could be a challenge, and you might need to try different methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the surface is plastic works in your favor.  Plastic furniture is typically made of polypropylene, which could make it easier.  It's hard to get a good bond on polypropylene, plus it will tolerate some of the solvents you could try.  It's soft, though, so you'll need to be careful not to cut or scratch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some things to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most water-based materials form a poor bond even if they stick.  They can often be peeled off.  Try getting under the edge of the Mod Podge with a &lt;strong&gt;razor blade&lt;/strong&gt;, being care not to cut or scratch the plastic.  If you can get the edge up, you may be able to peel it off, or it might come up easily if you scrape it.  Remove as much as possible this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regular Mod Podge can be resoftened.  I'm not sure about the fabric version, but it's worth a try.  Given that it's designed to hold up to washing, expect this to take awhile.  Saturate an old towel or thick rag with &lt;strong&gt;very hot soapy water&lt;/strong&gt; and cover the Mod Podge with it.  Regular Mod Podge can take over an hour to resoften, so it could need to sit for a long time.  As the cloth cools or dries out, saturate it again with hot soapy water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Mod Podge rehydrates, it will become cloudy or milky and softer.  You can try scrubbing it off with a sponge (an abrasive pad will scratch up the plastic), or try peeling it up as in the first bullet.  If the Mod Podge is thick and seems to be affected only on the surface, scrub off as much as you can and repeat the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If soapy water doesn't seem to have any effect per the previous bullet, try the same process using &lt;strong&gt;household ammonia&lt;/strong&gt; diluted to the strongest strength recommended on the bottle for cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few common chemicals that will soften, release, break down, or dissolve dried regular Mod Podge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alcohol:&lt;/strong&gt; pour it on the Mod Podge or wet a sponge, paper towel, or rag with it.  Give it a minute of contact with the Mod Podge, then scrub.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Petroleum jelly (Vaseline):&lt;/strong&gt; smear it on the Mod Podge and let it sit for a few hours.  Then scrub it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adhesive remover like &amp;quot;Goo Gone&amp;quot;:&lt;/strong&gt; follow the product instructions.  This may leave an oily residue, so clean the area with alcohol when you're done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Citrus solvent/cleaner&lt;/strong&gt; (Limonene): use similar to alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nail polish remover&lt;/strong&gt; (usually ethyl acetate): use similar to alcohol, but it evaporates too fast to let it sit on the Mod Podge; just start scrubbing.  If you have a lot of area to clean, do it in a ventilated area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acetone:&lt;/strong&gt; this is available in the paint section of hardware stores.  It is flammable and the vapors aren't good for you.  Use it in a well ventilated area with no sources of open flame.  Use similar to nail polish remover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few of these chemicals (acetone, limonene, probably ethyl acetate, maybe Goo Gone), will temporarily affect polypropylene (it may swell a little and the odor may linger), but that will disappear in a few days.  Also, if you use acetone, nail polish remover, limonene, or Goo Gone, use nitrile or polyethylene gloves to minimize skin contact.  Brief contact won't hurt you, but a lot of prolonged contact can be harmful to your skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T17:47:54.057" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T17:47:54.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8489" CreationDate="2020-09-27T19:51:04.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me post a slightly different perspective.  The starting point for the question is that you bought a thin fountain pen (presumably because you found it attractive).  Then you discovered that it is uncomfortable to hold and are looking for a solution to make using it more comfortable.  The existing answers directly address what you asked.  This answer will be more for other readers who have not yet made a purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fountain pen is a little different from other kinds of writing instruments.  It isn't just a question of holding the pen against the paper and dragging it around.  The pressure against the paper affects the line.  The rotation of the nib against the paper must be within a narrow range.  The angle of the nib against the paper must be within a narrow range.  The pen behaves differently on a pull stroke vs. a push stroke, which can affect how you form characters, especially with certain nibs.  If you want to take advantage of the ability to create artistic flourishes, you need a hand position that facilitates much longer strokes.  So it isn't just a question of securing the pen in your hand.  How you hold it affects your ability to write with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a fountain pen that you use for everyday writing (as opposed to something you use for just brief periods for a special purpose), it's very important to start with a pen that fits your hand and is comfortable to hold.  There are a lot of factors in this, including the diameter, length, weight, balance, shape of the grip area, whether or not you post the cap on the back during use, etc.  And the type of nib affects the importance of different elements of the hand position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are first starting out with fountain pens, it's a terrible idea to buy a pen based on its appearance without trying it out.  Plenty of pens are gorgeous, but may be problematic for you to use.  Go to stores that carry a selection of fountain pens and try different ones.  You'll find that some feel like a natural fit and are comfortable to use, while others are the opposite.  After you've been using fountain pens for awhile and have tried different ones, you'll find what design is the best fit for you.  At that point, it will be much safer buying a pen without trying it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've already bought a pen that is too thin (or not optimum in some other way), the best solution may be to cut your losses and try again.  You may be able to return the pen, or just save it for its beauty and limit how much you use it.  If you bought it for its appearance, any kind of accessory grip you add will negate that.  Modifying your hand position to use a pen that isn't a good fit for your hand isn't a good solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an old Henny Youngman joke: Patient to doctor, &amp;quot;Doctor, it hurts when I do this.&amp;quot;  Doctor, &amp;quot;So don't do that.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T19:51:04.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-09-29T06:09:45.490" Score="2" ViewCount="2885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder how does epoxy resin compare to glass. I have in mind at least:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mechanical strength;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;elasticity / bending;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;break-ability&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source for this &amp;quot;curiosity&amp;quot; is the countless videos on the net where people create things (especially table tops) - but never show the strength of the said things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I trust such table to support a computer or monitor or some other expensive(-ish) thing? Is it safe to use such table top for the kitchen table? Food might be hot, and if it spills on whoever, then &amp;quot;whoever&amp;quot; will be not happy at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2020-10-04T16:49:24.333" Title="Comparison: epoxy resin vs. glass" Tags="|glass|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8580" CreationDate="2020-09-30T00:50:53.500" Score="2" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some EL wire I used once to make a cool glow suit that ended up looking like buzz lightyear, but now I want to move onto a different project. I've already removed it from the first set, but this other project I have in mind I want to keep for a while so I would like to find a way to attach the EL wire in a more permanent way. In the first version, I used clothes pins and threaded the wire through the little holes on one end and then capped it after it was finished, and that worked well for the short time I needed it. However, I need to make it a bit longer lasting this time around. I plan to attach the EL wire to a quick-dry shirt, and maybe a little on some pants but not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be moving around a bit, so hopefully this option will allow for some movement, and I would also like to do some sharper corners for a sort of 'cracks' pattern when I mount it so that might narrow it down some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9629" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T14:02:37.427" Title="How to best attach EL wire to clothing mostly-permanantly?" Tags="|material-selection|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8579" CreationDate="2020-09-30T14:02:37.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious solution seems like the best here. Sew it on by hand. This requires basically no sewing experience; if you can sew on a button you can do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't put the needle &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the wire. Rather, put the needle through the fabric from behind, wrap it over the wire, and put it back through the fabric on the other side. This makes a loop of thread over the wire. Repeat several times in the same location until you have a sturdy loop around the wire. Tie off your thread. Repeat in another location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a thicker thread will make the process faster, because you won't need as many loops in each spot. Suitable threads include: a double thickness of normal sewing thread, embroidery thread, crochet cotton, even twine if you find the appearance and texture acceptable. Remember that the knot on the inside will be thicker than the thread itself, so consider how the knot will feel when the garment is worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like, you can make the knot and the loose ends part of the design. Use a thicker yarn or string, and tie the knot on the outside. Leave the ends an inch or two, or as long as you want the fringe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to experiment to figure out the best spacing of the attachment points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T14:02:37.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8582" CreationDate="2020-09-30T15:32:47.007" Score="5" ViewCount="1410" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I store oil paint in an airtight bottle?&lt;/strong&gt; I read in a lot of forums that the space in the bottle (air) will dry out the oil paint. This confuses me, why can we store linseed oil in a bottle but not the oil paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really need a container. I bought some affordable oil paints (100mL) but the container caps break easily, now I cover them with plastic bag and rubber band, it is messy. To purchase aluminum tube is not an option for me since they can't be purchased locally and importing them will cost more than than my paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9675" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-06T08:10:29.663" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T08:10:29.663" Title="Storing Oil Paint in Bottles" Tags="|oil-paint|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8581" CreationDate="2020-09-30T22:53:13.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem with bottles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil paint doesn't really &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot;, it hardens through a chemical reaction that turns the oil in the paint into a kind of plastic.  The oil reacts with oxygen in the air and polymerizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the paint is stored in a container with no air (like a squeezable tube), it can't start the hardening process until it's dispensed and exposed to air.  If it's stored in a jar or bottle that isn't filled right to the top, the container will contain some air, and the oxygen will react with the paint.  There may not be enough air for all the paint to harden initially, but it will harden as a cumulative process.  The surface can skin over (which would need to be removed and discarded), and some of the paint below that could become partially polymerized, which will change its characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you open the container, you exchange the air inside with fresh air, and more oxygen to react with the paint.  Even if you open the container only briefly to take out some paint for use, you leave the container with fresh oxygen when you reseal it, which will react with the paint while it's in storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A container of just linseed oil can eventually do the same thing, but it's less susceptible.  Without the paint pigment, the oil is better able to mix when you handle the container, so it has more tendency to become slightly polymerized throughout instead of the surface hardening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solutions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few kinds of &amp;quot;adjustable&amp;quot; containers that would allow you to store the paint without air pockets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Empty plastic lotion tubes&lt;/strong&gt; designed for people who make their own cosmetics or want to repackage lotions for travel size.  They're widely available (Google &amp;quot;empty lotion tubes&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Large plastic syringes&lt;/strong&gt; (no needle, just a fairly large &amp;quot;nozzle&amp;quot;).  It's easy to plug the nozzle hole to seal it when not in use.  These are available on Amazon and other retailers.  They're typically made of polyethylene and can be cleaned and reused, and 100 ml is a standard size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Small, very heavy-duty &lt;strong&gt;resealable plastic bags/pouches&lt;/strong&gt; that open on the narrow end.  You can buy squeezable plastic pouches that are long zip-lock tubes designed to fill with juice and freeze to make popsicles, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01MDUDWHH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also sell refillable plastic &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;flask&amp;quot; pouches&lt;/strong&gt; with a capped nozzle designed to hold and drink beverages like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HRPRZP7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.  These tend to be bigger than your paint quantities, but you just squeeze out any air.  Or keep the empty portion flattened as you fill the pouch so all the paint is at the open end and there is no air in the unfilled portion of the pouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Very heavy-duty plastic bags plus an accessory &lt;strong&gt;resealable dispenser cap&lt;/strong&gt;.  You can find these caps at places like Amazon or at big grocery stores in the gadget section.  They are typically a spout with a snap-close lid plus a clamp that seals the bag around the spout.  When you use up the contents, you can clean and reuse the cap.  They go by various terms, but &amp;quot;plastic bag spout&amp;quot; as a search term brought up a bunch of examples on Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also &lt;strong&gt;make your own&lt;/strong&gt;.  Cut the top off a plastic bottle that has a cap and neck with deep, continuous threads (more likely to find on a juice bottle than a soda or water bottle).  Unscrew the cap and feed the opening of a very heavy-duty plastic bag through the bottle neck from the bottle side.  Fold it over the threads of the neck.  Then screw the cap on over the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variation is to use the top of a plastic bottle that has a flip-top cap or other closure mechanism (like a bottle from shampoo or liquid dish detergent).  The bottle should have some kind of indentation between the threaded neck and the rest of the bottle (so you can secure the bag without it pulling off).  Wrap the opening of a very heavy-duty plastic bag around the indentation and use a zip tie to make a tight seal.  Then you can use the cap's built-in dispenser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a bag similar to an &lt;strong&gt;icing piping bag&lt;/strong&gt; that is completely air tight (not rolled from a sheet), and that has a good sealing clip on the back and a nozzle with a sealable cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to go that route and want to stick with a bottle or jar that will contain an air space, you can slow down paint hardening by &lt;strong&gt;displacing the air&lt;/strong&gt; so there is no oxygen in the sealed container.  Before you recap the container, squirt in a burst of &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;canned air&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; from a duster (like &amp;quot;Dust-Off&amp;quot;).  The gas is propellant and an &amp;quot;inert&amp;quot; gas.  Aim the nozzle at the wall of the container so the gas creates a vortex.  Then immediately cap the container.  This will displace most of the room air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to do this if you have access to &lt;strong&gt;dry ice&lt;/strong&gt; is to drop a few very small chips of dry ice on top of the paint and lay the lid on loosely.  Give the dry ice a few minutes to sublimate and displace the air, then tighten the lid.  Use just a few small chips of dry ice so you don't freeze the paint.  They will mostly float on a layer of carbon dioxide and sublimate quickly, and it doesn't take much to produce enough carbon dioxide to fill the top of the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-10-02T03:50:37.270" LastActivityDate="2020-10-02T03:50:37.270" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-03T21:50:15.527" Score="4" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had made a set of plates (from slab) with the Plainsman’s coffee clay and glazed it with John Britts’ 3M4 glaze (dipped half in 3M4 base and other half 3M4 +2.5% rutile). I’ve been using them for weeks with hot and cold food, in the dishwasher and everything.&#xA;Tonight when I put hot food on one, it cracked through the glaze and the clay.&#xA;Is this problem due to the clay and glaze not fitting together?&#xA;And how do I go about fixing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="921" LastActivityDate="2022-08-25T10:05:40.590" Title="Handmade ceramic plate cracking after putting hot food on it" Tags="|ceramics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-04T01:29:05.147" Score="5" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, sometimes, there will be a single page or a large portion of the page dedicated to a single scene or image, and this will be cut into panels. But if the gutters were removed, the image would be whole. So what purpose does cutting it do exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9689" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-10-04T07:39:36.203" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T02:12:01.880" Title="In comic making, what purpose does cutting a single image into panels serve?" Tags="|comics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8586" CreationDate="2020-10-04T01:31:40.263" Score="6" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've acquired a large (roughly 3 ft diameter) vintage mirror ball, which I'm super excited about. However, a number of the mirrors are cracked (maybe ~50-100 in total), which I wouldn't mind except for the small shards of glass that are coming off the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would folks recommend fixing such a large number of cracked mirrors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Repair-a-Cracked-Mirror&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikihow&lt;/a&gt; recommends using a resin to fix a cracked mirror, but the technique they describe seems super labor intensive to do across tens of mirrors. Is there another way of applying the resin that would be faster to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, I was thinking of just using scotch tape which might diminish the shine of the individual mirror but would stop glass shards from coming off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo of the ball next to a chair for scale&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2hbQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2hbQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ball next to chair&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture of a couple cracked mirrors&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hULUF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hULUF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cracked mirrors&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9688" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T09:25:52.653" Title="How should I fix a large mirror ball with many cracked mirrors?" Tags="|glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8585" CreationDate="2020-10-04T06:40:00.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;See if you can find some adhesive vinyl with a mirrored surface.  I had some a few years ago and it was every bit as reflective as the individual squares of a mirror ball.  The material is meant for use in a cricut or silhouette brand vinyl cutter and is probably sold at your local art supply store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the vinyl into squares the size of cracked mirror squares then peel off its wax paper backing and stick it over the cracked squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2020-10-04T06:40:00.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8584" CreationDate="2020-10-04T09:35:46.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The division in panels is used &lt;strong&gt;to signify the passing of time&lt;/strong&gt;, occurring in the direction of reading. This is known as sequential narrative. Whether the panels consist of different images or divide what appears to be a single image, does not matter for this interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often when it concerns a single image, this division is combined with text - be it dialogue, description, or thoughts of the person(s) depicted. It can symbolize a lack of physical or emotional change, a stability, solidification, or unyieldingness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xv6KP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xv6KP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Daredevil concentrating&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Chris Samnee. Daredevil, issue #25, 2011&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-10-04T09:35:46.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8584" CreationDate="2020-10-04T15:58:43.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8587/9695&quot;&gt;Joachim’s “passage of time” explanation&lt;/a&gt; and considering his example image specifically, composite images consuming multiple frames also consume more of the current page than conventional single frame images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This greater scale may imply that the image contains greater drama, intensity or event some time-stopping significance to the depicted character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It attempts to convey a horrible moment which stretches out towards eternity due to its mind-shattering emotional impact upon the subject of the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="9695" LastEditDate="2020-10-05T02:12:01.880" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T02:12:01.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8578" CreationDate="2020-10-04T16:43:01.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a year ago, I created a epoxy resin based river table for my dining room involving a couple of live-edged oak panels joined by a river made from several hundred dollars worth of metallic blue colored epoxy resin.  My first attempt failed miserably for a variety of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't adequately dry the fresh cut oak which meant that water lurked just under the wooden side of the epoxy/wood joint.  I also didn't seal the wood adequately before applying the resin so after the pour, the heat from the resin's hardening drew the water out of the wood and into the resin, making the resin cloudy and ugly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also poured too much resin in each layer and poured it on a early winter night when the temperature in my workshop suddenly dropped twenty degrees.  The sum of these temperature related missteps was that the resin cracked in several places, leaving jagged lightning-bolts throughout the &amp;quot;river&amp;quot; portion of the table.  Ultimately it shattered completely as it cooled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second attempt was significantly more successful, though I never did get around to putting legs on it.  With the oak properly dried and prepared and with much more patience during the resin pouring, I managed to produce a 3' x 8', mostly flat surface with a beautifully un-shattered river center stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I finally get around to answering your question, &amp;quot;how does resin compare to glass?&amp;quot;.   The answer is, it depends.   For the vast majority of the pour, I used a comparatively cheap resin, one stage up from what is normally used to make fiberglass.  It's greatest attribute was that it was supposed to be foolproof.  My first attempt definitely proved that wrong but after I got the hang of it, it was pretty easy.  I left the project alone to cure for about a month and when I returned I found the surface hard but not as hard as glass.  I could definitely &amp;quot;dent&amp;quot; it by dropping metal objects on it and I left a few fingernail gouges in it as well.  It was about as hard as drywall and had a slightly oily feel, even after a month of curing in a cold garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I called the shop where I had bought the original resin and described the state of things.  They happily sold me several gallons of another (more expensive) resin which they called a &amp;quot;hard coat&amp;quot;.  Sorry, I don't have any real product names.   I sanded the table everywhere to help with adhesion, then poured this new resin over both the previous resin and the oak, allowing it to pool over the entire surface which I had surrounded with a masking tape fence.  The new resin was clear but it made the wood look amazing.  It also brought the dull sanded surface of the old resin back to transparency with a gorgeous glossiness.  This surface cured clear, flat and hard.   Metal coins bounce off without leaving a mark.  Cat claws and fingernails fail miserably in any attempt to scratch it.  The edge is sharp and would be straight if I had thought to use something stronger than masking tape for the wall around the final pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That table top now holds a proud place in my gallery of unfinished craft projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any scientific instrumentation to measure the difference between this final surface and glass, but the &amp;quot;hard coat&amp;quot; resin will definitely stand up to years of normal indoor usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="1189" LastEditDate="2020-10-04T16:49:24.333" LastActivityDate="2020-10-04T16:49:24.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8585" CreationDate="2020-10-05T09:25:52.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to fix the shards in place with a clear glass glue. Please don't try superglue because it dries matte and could leave a cloudy residue on the mirrors. Use special clear glass glue instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is crystal clear UV resin that is commonly used in crafting and for nail art. You can carefully put it on the cracked mirrors and then let the sun cure the resin. Please try this method on one mirror (or a piece of glass that's not part of the ball) to see if the resin cures clear. Be aware that resins have the tendency to yellow in sun light, so the color of the fixed mirrors might change in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T09:25:52.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8593" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2020-10-05T18:47:13.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drawing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drawing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drawing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ink&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ink&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ink&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pens&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pens&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-10-05T18:47:13.090" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T18:47:13.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8594" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2020-10-05T18:47:13.090" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding techniques and conventions used in comics, cartoons, and graphic novels, or the medium used to express narratives using still images, often in combination with text." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-10-05T18:47:13.090" LastActivityDate="2020-10-05T18:47:13.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8596" CreationDate="2020-10-06T12:45:20.403" Score="4" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a paper craft artist. I am wondering if I can make my paper art waterproof.&#xA;I tried putting clear epoxy resin on the paper model, but the resin changed the color of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any material I can put on my model to make it more durable and waterproof?&#xA;The paper I am using is 200GSM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9703" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-10-06T13:59:59.837" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T15:43:07.917" Title="How to make paper waterproof" Tags="|paper|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8595" CreationDate="2020-10-06T15:43:07.917" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various waterproofing sprays and brush-on treatments sold for maps.  They shouldn't change the colour very much, (hopefully not at all for print) but may darken the base colour a little.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aquaseal.com/products.aspx?pagename=Product%20Details&amp;amp;itemid=3789&amp;amp;prodid=92576&amp;amp;pagetitle=Aquaseal-Map-Seal---8oz.&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's one example&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-Outdoor-Camping-Clothing-Fishing/dp/B0081HFEDM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's another&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to using these is to ensure perfect coverage, and several thin, even, coats.  The same would be true for spray lacquer, which should also work though it's not necessarily designed to be flexible.  For origami I'd spray from a different direction for every coat, but even so getting it into the crevices will be tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/making_waterproof_maps-406094&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;seen&lt;/a&gt; a recommendation for polyurethane varnish, with the note that some change the colour but others don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dip process would ensure good coverage but in an oil-based varnish is very likely to change the colour (as you found with epoxy), maybe adding translucency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A range of options is presented &lt;a href=&quot;http://granjow.net/waterproof-paper.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; including some I've mentioned above.  One that looks particularly interesting is &lt;em&gt;shellac&lt;/em&gt;.  It dissolves in alcohol but not water, and hardens when the alcohol evaporates, so unless you have alcohol-soluble colours on your paper, it shouldn't have much if any effect on the colour, and is described as being suitable for a bath process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T15:43:07.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-06T22:50:50.477" Score="4" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering modifying a foam glider into an RC plane, but one of the problems I'm worried about is that all the electronics will be sitting rather exposed on top of the fuselage(I think that's the right term for the long skinny tube part). So I figured 'oh I'll just cut out some holes and set the stuff in there' but I don't know how I would cut the channels and holes for wires and hardware and leave a floor for it to sit on. If needed I can cut all the way through, chop off the top bit or so, and then duct tape the bottom part back into the plane to make an indent. But this method still needs a knife or something to go all the way through the foam, and I know that's not gonna happen without seriously mangling the plane and wasting foam. I looked into hot wire cutters, but for that I would have to cut from the outside of the plane and that would weaken the plane overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I cut through up to 4 inches of foam while minimizing the amount that turns into that annoying fluffy snow stuff that gets everywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9629" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T23:29:02.543" Title="How to cut out notches and holes in foam semi-precisely?" Tags="|cutting|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8597" CreationDate="2020-10-06T23:29:02.543" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;aircraft&amp;quot; you reference is made of expanded polystyrene foam, also known as Styrofoam™. It is sensitive to heat to the point that there are high-temperature-based tools to address your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than spend a bunch on specialized tools, you can use a soldering iron set just low enough to control the level of melt generated. If you have a single temperature tool, speed becomes the control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach that I've used is a bit more time consuming, but allows for much greater detail work. A butane lighter or steady heat source is used to bring a long sewing needle up to temperature. Obviously, pliers or similar must be used as a handle. You can drive the needle to the required depth at the corners of your recess, &amp;quot;draw&amp;quot; a cut-out outline and then use a soldering iron to eat away at the middle of the mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're handy with other tools, hammer the point of a nail to a flat blade and use that as your tool. You can hammer a spoon shape into the nail to get a smoothing tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The possibilities are limited only by your imagination and available resources in the tool department.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T23:29:02.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1751" CreationDate="2020-10-07T19:18:42.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a traditional Japanese art form called &amp;quot;Hapa Zome&amp;quot; which means leaf dye (makes sense.) You get leaves or flowers, and beat the crap out of them with a hammer on a piece of cloth, paper, or even wood. The juices that are in the plant (moisture mixed with the chlorophyll and anthocyanins) will be squeezed through the plant tissues and membrane, and dye the canvas. Just make sure you don't use dry plants, and also don't hit your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2020-10-07T19:18:42.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-08T15:48:29.433" Score="5" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a knitting project in which I have 94 stitches on my needle, and I’m supposed to do an evenly spaced increase of 50 to get 144 stitches. I know &lt;strong&gt;how&lt;/strong&gt; to increase, but I do not know if I need to start with the first stitch and how I should knit this way! Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit-I learned that I can do it as&#xA;&lt;em&gt;knit 22, m1, [k1, m1] until last 23 sts, k23&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;but mine says evenly spaced, is that evenly spaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9588" LastEditorUserId="9588" LastEditDate="2020-10-08T17:02:07.567" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T18:53:37.707" Title="Evenly spaced increase" Tags="|knitting|crocheting|yarn|string|hats|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-09T10:57:39.283" Score="2" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering painting with oil colours on wood panels, but I'm a little concerned about the known drawback involved, i.e. warping.&#xA;Not being an expert, I watched some tutorials on YouTube and learned that the most common thing painsters do is laying three layers of acrylic gesso on all sides of the panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found other people who prefer oil or lead priming, claiming they are far more effective. But the strangest was Rust-Oleum Automobile Primer (see video here at 3:18  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mldb4rqL9I&amp;amp;t=199s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mldb4rqL9I&amp;amp;t=199s&lt;/a&gt;), which the man in the video says is the best, cheapest, and easiest way to protect the wood from any weather adversity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm a little confused. I was about to start with the most common way, that is gesso, but then my research led me into a rabbit hole. Isn't gesso good enough against warping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to find the best way to make sure my painting would last. I know that linen also is good in this respect, but I needed a smooth surface to paint on. And linen with fine texture is really too expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9619" LastEditorUserId="9619" LastEditDate="2020-10-11T08:44:53.423" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T08:23:22.277" Title="Best archival product for wood panels to oil paint on?" Tags="|paint|oil-paint|woodworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8600" CreationDate="2020-10-09T18:53:37.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Evenly spaced stitches means that the number of stitches between increases is approximately the same. Since you are increase 50 sts over 94 current stitches, and 94/50=1.88 you should put (on average) 1.88 sts between increases. That means your increases will be done in some combination of (m1,k1) and (m1,k2) repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are helpful calculators available online that will tell you how to space your increases based on the current number of stitches and the number of stitches to increase. I found many such calculators by googling &amp;quot;knitting evenly spaced increase calculator.&amp;quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.worldknits.com/knitting-calculators&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This calculator&lt;/a&gt; says to work your increases (50 increases over 94 current stitches) as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K1, (M1, k1) 3 times, (M1, k2) 43 times, (M1, k1) 3 times, M1, k1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer a kfb increase, you could work your increases this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K1, (kfb) 3 times, (kfb, k1) 43 times, (kfb) 4 times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pattern doesn't specify what increase stitch to use, it's up to you. Generally with evenly spaced increase you want to use whichever method will be most inconspicuous. M1 is the usual choice. Kfb creates a bar on the front of the work that looks like a purl, so it looks fine on garter stitch but it looks a bit strange on stockinette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2020-10-09T18:53:37.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2020-10-10T14:45:00.950" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;scrape them using an exacto  knife blade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9714" LastActivityDate="2020-10-10T14:45:00.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8608" CreationDate="2020-10-11T18:27:56.260" Score="2" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vanishing point seems to be at the center of the frame, where the parallel lines seem to meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering why the parallel lines of the semi arch are pointing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pointer would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please excuse my ignorance. Thank you!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrEEz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrEEz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9717" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T18:40:32.433" Title="The Last Supper - Vanishing Points" Tags="|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8607" CreationDate="2020-10-11T18:40:32.433" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The arch is not a painted part of the painting&lt;/strong&gt;, but a physical part of the room in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Maria_delle_Grazie,_Milan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Santa Maria delle Grazie&lt;/a&gt; above which the mural can be found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HpjJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HpjJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://e-arthistory5.blogspot.com/2018/03/leonardos-last-supper.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T18:40:32.433" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2020-10-12T21:57:06.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some good answers here already. However, with a limited budget and novice level skills, your best bet is &amp;quot;paint to resemble ...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By that I mean take a cloth that is fairly coarse, and also cheap and easy to work with, like sailcloth, canvas or even coarse linen. Use inserts of foam, cork, plastic or even cardboard to stiffen and add mass. Sew or glue the inserts between two layers of cloth (linen, canvas, etc), then use acrylic paint to paint the cloth to resemble leather armour. You can use acrylic spray paint or tubs of student acrylic. The acrylic paint forms a &amp;quot;plastic&amp;quot; layer much like what you see in faux leather, though obviously not as washable or durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T21:57:06.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2020-10-13T12:51:53.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Metal and fiberglass are nothing like real leather. They're stiff, and they don't move at all (that's why no one makes clothes out of them). I think that faux leather would be your best bet. It is designed to look, feel, and work like real leather, and it's way cheaper. Faux leather (fake leather) has a very similar structure and feel to that of real leather, so its the most ideal thing as a substitute. Just look up faux leather on google and go to the shopping tab. There are loads of different retailers that have different colors and styles. Good luck with your project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-02-08T15:26:00.953" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T15:26:00.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-14T13:05:45.450" Score="3" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use both rollerball and fountain pens for journaling and note taking.  For journaling I use a fountain pen with Noodlers Bulletproof black ink because it is supposed to be at least somewhat permanent.  I can't seem to find any permanent or close to permanent ink refills for rollerball pens, do they exist? What are the &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot; options for rollerball pens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="877" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T12:04:50.423" Title="Are there any &quot;permanent&quot; or close to permanent rollerball inks?" Tags="|pens|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-15T17:37:13.017" Score="2" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a template for placement, how do I get a clean cut of 1/4, 3/4 and 1 inch holes in fabric? What tool would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9731" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2020-12-06T20:07:11.467" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T20:07:11.467" Title="How do I achieve a clean cut of small circles?" Tags="|sewing|quilting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2020-10-20T08:29:16.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8613" CreationDate="2020-10-15T19:27:55.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have an easy one, I think. The best tool for cutting the holes you describe, in template plastic is a hole punch, also known as a circle punch. A quick search shows that Amazon has all three sizes you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/4&amp;quot; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0090JVBP0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EK Tools circle cutter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/4&amp;quot; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B084ZJRQNH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Conventional&amp;quot; hole punch&lt;/a&gt; - 0.25&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1&amp;quot; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B013NESBKK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cady crafts Punch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above are amazon links and you can certainly find other resources, but this should give you a path to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T19:27:55.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8613" CreationDate="2020-10-15T21:11:46.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your objective is a circle template, you can just buy a pre-made circle template like this (just a random example for illustration):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p5fuF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p5fuF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B004O4P030&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're widely available at office supply or art supply stores, big retailers, online merchants like Amazon, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make your own, the best tool depends on the type of plastic you're working with.  Also, I'll assume that you would rather have a single tool or tool set with a range of sizes than a different type of tool for each size hole (which is often the case with the size range you describe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the plastic is paper-thin&lt;/strong&gt;, and your idea is to pin or adhere the template to the fabric and then just cut the fabric around the guide, punches of the style described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8614/8251&quot;&gt;fred_dot_u's answer&lt;/a&gt; are probably the way to go.  Just bear in mind that it will be easy to accidentally cut the template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your idea is to use a heavier template that provides an edge for marking the fabric, I'd suggest a different approach.  For a cardstock weight plastic, it might still be practical to use those kinds of punches.  But if you go to more substantial plastic, you'll want a different tool.  If the plastic you have in mind is a &lt;strong&gt;heavier flexible plastic&lt;/strong&gt; sheet, like from a polypropylene looseleaf binder cover, a polypropylene coffee can lid, a polyethylene milk jug, or a PVC packaging clamshell, those punches won't be a good solution.  If they are capable of cutting the material without breaking or quickly wearing out, they will need a lot of leverage for a person of average strength to be able to punch such heavy materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plastic is thick enough to do well as a template (i.e., provides a useful edge), it will be easier to use a heavy duty punch designed for gaskets.  You can get sets covering your size range like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZbjS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZbjS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00004T7WK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check places like Amazon, Harbor Freight, or hardware stores; search on &amp;quot;gasket punch set&amp;quot;.  Put the plastic on a flat, protective surface that will give and not damage the cutting edge, like a block of wood, position the punch, and whack the punch with a hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the plastic is thick enough to be like a commercially pre-made template (like the example at the start of the answer), it will be pretty &lt;strong&gt;rigid&lt;/strong&gt; (and depending on the plastic, may be brittle).  You won't be able to punch the holes, you will need to cut or drill them.  The secret to cutting clean holes in plastic is to use a very sharp tool, cut slowly and without applying excessive force, and avoid building up heat (e.g., keep the surface wet), so the plastic doesn't soften and distort or melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are hole saws that look like a circular band of saw blade, but they don't go down to your smaller hole sizes.  There are diamond hole saws that cover your size range, but the plastic will quickly melt and fill the abrasive edge.  There are a few kinds of bits that will work well on plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is a &amp;quot;step drill bit&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UI35z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UI35z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B076QC5BWR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These come with varying collections of hole sizes built into the bit.  You drill through the successively larger sizes until you have the hole size you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is a &amp;quot;spade bit&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W03sa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W03sa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.harborfreight.com/steel-spade-drill-bit-set-13-pc-69028.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Harbor Freight&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned earlier, with either type of drill bit, it's important to not stress the plastic.  Use light pressure, go slow, and if practical, keep a puddle of water on the area (or even drill underwater in something like a basin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-10-15T21:11:46.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2927" CreationDate="2020-10-16T19:30:21.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to try Staedtler Mars Lumograph Black Drawing Pencils.  They have a high proportion of carbon for matte, jet black results that you can't typically get in purely graphite pencils but handle and sharpen like a graphite pencil--you avoid the mess of charcoal and clumsy handling but should still get the darkness you want. They range from HB to 8B but work well with graphite should you need to mix in some harder leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9742" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T19:30:21.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5570" CreationDate="2020-10-17T20:41:04.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not done this myself, but you can use laser cut/etched MDF as molds for pewter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9749" LastActivityDate="2020-10-17T20:41:04.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4236" CreationDate="2020-10-20T03:08:09.397" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is the paisley pattern, originated in Persia and spreading to India. In Henna (drawing on hands and legs by henna ink), paisley is also a favourite pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9756" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T03:08:09.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8623" CreationDate="2020-10-20T03:17:04.280" Score="7" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building toy strollers for my girls. I'm planning on using solid wood wheels and I would like to attach rubber tread. I was hoping to buy a roll of rubber tread, maybe with a slot or something to help secure it to the wheels. What options are out there for tread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9760" LastEditorUserId="8690" LastEditDate="2020-10-20T15:10:36.130" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T20:54:37.033" Title="what rubber to buy for wooden wheels" Tags="|wood|rubber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8622" CreationDate="2020-10-20T15:19:54.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could cut up an old bike tire. Cut off the sides, and you have a nice strip of actual tire tread. There are lots of different sizes of bike wheel, so you can customize the depth of the tread by choosing between road tire (skinny tire, shallow tread), off-road (much wider tire and deeper, bumpier tread), hybrids (a cross between road and off-road) and those fat balloon tires that have become popular recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could secure the tire tread with thin nails, strategically hidden between the treads. If the nails are too visible once they're in, add a dab of black paint to the nail head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you just want a thin layer of rubber, cut up an old inner tube. In this case, there's nowhere to hide the nails, so I would make them part of the design. Space them evenly around the circumference. I would go with a larger nail with a wider head (eg, carpet tacks). Stretch the inner tube slightly as you secure it so it doesn't stretch after the fact and sag or gap. But don't stretch it so much that it will pull against the nails and rip. Note that the nailheads will stick out just a bit, like hobnailed boots. So this is not a good idea if you expect your children to play with these strollers on your nice wood floors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to Chris H for this suggestion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could glue inner tube rubber - not with patch cement but with contact adhesive or gel superglue. Neither will hold against attempts to peel the rubber away, but should work in this case. This wouldn't work for a tyre, as that's too stiff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask your local bike shop if they will sell you an old tire or inner tubes they were going to throw away. It should be cheap; they may even give it to you for free (especially if you tell them it's for a hand-made toy for your children).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastEditorUserId="8690" LastEditDate="2020-10-20T20:54:37.033" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T20:54:37.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8622" CreationDate="2020-10-20T18:37:02.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I've voted for the answer suggesting bike tyres, here are some alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are vinyl products that can be painted on (or dipped, but painting is better in this case). A couple of coats of black Plasti-dip, the brand I have here, would work nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cylindrical pieces of black latex of the right sort of size  are available - drysuit replacement wrist seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even use large diameter heatshrink sleeving - cut and align very tidily before using a heat gun gently. Two layers would look best, shrinking the first before applying a second that completely covers it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T18:37:02.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-10-21T04:34:05.950" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there is any paper or study regarding the recommended firmness of foam for best packaging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best packaging is seen here as most efficient to endure and absorb shocks during shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Packaging firmness can be more or less hard or soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCJca.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCJca.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, you usually see soft foam packaging for jewelry and hard/tough foam packaging for TV/screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first analysis is that the heavier the item is, the harder the foam packaging should be. Has there any serious study?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9764" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T04:34:05.950" Title="Recommended foam firmness for shipping" Tags="|foam|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2020-10-22T19:11:54.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4229" CreationDate="2020-10-22T15:27:39.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I scoured the web looking for a simple way to etch acrylic plates and glasses, the way I etch glass plates and glasses using a stencil and etching cream. Could not find anything. Then it hit me - acetone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I tried applying it the same way I would etching cream and made a big mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I needed was more control. Instead of straight acetone, I took nail polish remover (with 98% acetone) and a cotton round. I dabbed a little nail polish remover on the cotton, then folded it over on itself to soak up extra. Finally, after applying the stencil, I dabbed the cotton onto the acrylic, rinsed to get any extra off the stencil, and removed the stencil. It came out beautifully, looking exactly like etched glass! (The photo is my test piece, the mess is on the opposite side of the logo shown.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCEKi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCEKi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of acrylic wine glass with etched text and designs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9769" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-10-22T15:56:57.477" LastActivityDate="2020-10-22T15:56:57.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8629" CreationDate="2020-10-22T22:19:23.107" Score="5" ViewCount="2274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a term for my art drawings. I'm going to post a gig on Fiverr and I don't know what to call it (black and white art/drawing?). There has to be a name for it. I have been drawing using black ink on white paper ever since I was a kid, and my drawings are really cool. Now I'm using Photoshop to edit my hand drawings and they look even better. I'm starting to think of a job using my talent, but if I don't know a way to describe my art people won't find me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to describe my artwork and artworks that are similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzN4e.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzN4e.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;addition:&#xA;The technique I'm using is to draw a shape, then add lines, points, and designs in and around it. Then I do the same for another shape near it, then merge the two shapes together, making sure that I hide what is the starting shape by drawing in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9771" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T13:51:52.293" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T13:51:52.293" Title="What is the name of my drawing style? Black and white?" Tags="|drawing|terminology|style-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8627" CreationDate="2020-10-23T01:25:21.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although your work is more abstract, it immediately reminded me of the work of British illustrator &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ian_Miller_(illustrator)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ian Miller&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ian-miller.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;His term&lt;/a&gt; for the style of his (especially) black-and-white work was &amp;quot;Tight Pen Style,&amp;quot; although I don't think that terminology was every picked up more widely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may seen some similarity to your own work in this fantastical floating tree&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ak9RE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ak9RE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Miller Illustration&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or in this illustration of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gormenghast_(series)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gormenghast&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzDAM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzDAM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration of Gormenghast&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miller tends to apply this technical style to produce works with a fairly grotesque or gothic character, but I don't know to what extent that applies to your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="221" LastEditorUserId="221" LastEditDate="2021-06-09T21:39:58.740" LastActivityDate="2021-06-09T21:39:58.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8627" CreationDate="2020-10-23T11:51:44.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black and white is the colour scheme of your drawing - it is never a style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The medium is ink on paper, if digitally cleaned up and printed it can be described as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8176/what-is-the-fine-art-term-for-office-printer-as-medium&quot;&gt;print&lt;/a&gt; (and you might want to consider working in (limited) editions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique, depending on your drawing method, seems to be free drawing, akin to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_writing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;free writing&lt;/a&gt; (and in that case an intentional form of doodling), or '&lt;em&gt;automatic&lt;/em&gt; drawing', the drawing counterpart to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_writing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;automatic writing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these methods usually produce an idiomatic decorative pattern (as user &lt;em&gt;agarza&lt;/em&gt; mentions in the comments, it is similar to henna drawings, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mehndi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mehndi&lt;/a&gt;), they can be used to describe a style as well, simply because it will tell people what to expect. But a better way to go about it is to see what makes &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; artwork &lt;em&gt;yours&lt;/em&gt;, what is unique about it, and either combine that with 'doodling', 'doodles', or 'free/automatic drawing', depending on what kind of audience you want to appeal to.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For instance, your drawing also reminds me of a more abstract and asymmetrical and less geographical form of the luscious &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horror_vacui&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;horror vacui&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; ornaments and illuminations in manuscripts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SG5sq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SG5sqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Gothic Ornament with Putti and Acanthus Leaves, 19th century.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/382725&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Click for larger version.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, '&lt;em&gt;ornamental free drawing&lt;/em&gt;' &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be a way to describe your artwork.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Ultimately, you know best what you want to achieve and what kind of clients you want to attract, so play around with the suggestions given here in the comments and answers until you find something you think is appropriate for your artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-10-23T11:51:44.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8637" CreationDate="2020-10-26T20:53:50.917" Score="5" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a couple cool pictures with drawing on certain parts. I was curious if there was an actual name for this style. You can see the background and parts of the subject are the photo, and then there is drawings over other parts.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh4Ju.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh4Ju.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9nNf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9nNf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QDddV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QDddV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T09:43:33.867" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T09:43:33.867" Title="What's this art style?" Tags="|technique-identification|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8632" CreationDate="2020-10-27T13:26:08.917" Score="6" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a hobby, I'm starting to do calligraphy. I've bought some paper online a few weeks ago (a Rhodia paper block). Today, I found out that when the block lays on a flat surface, I see two or three small &amp;quot;waves&amp;quot; in the paper which seem they are caused by humidity (you know when you wet a sheet of paper and where it is wet it shows some &amp;quot;waves&amp;quot;, well, they are similar, but extended through the whole page and not as tall). If I detach a sheet from the block it shows the very same small waves (it's not completely flat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also own some other blocks, and I see the same problem (although much less noticeable) in all of them.&#xA;I live in a naturally humid environment, that's why my first suspect for this is humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to store paper in such a way that avoids this strange effect? Moreover, is there a way to make the block return flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9747" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-06T08:09:27.500" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T11:20:39.400" Title="Store paper in a humid environment" Tags="|paper|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8631" CreationDate="2020-10-27T17:05:53.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can make sure an equal pressure is applied to the individual papers or blocks while being stored by &lt;strong&gt;laying a heavy and flat object like a book or a similar item on top of them&lt;/strong&gt;. Even if the humidity would otherwise warp the paper, there is no room for that now.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can try storing your currently warped paper blocks like this for a while, but I doubt they will become completely flush again (they would need moisture so the fibres can expand, and then shrink while the pressure is applied, but the moisture would need a way to evaporate relatively quick or the paper might end up mouldy).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;See also the first half of &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8375/6388&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more information on storing paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The already wrinkled or waved paper can be straightened by moistening it and sticking it to a wooden board using water activated tape (see also the second part of &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8335/6388&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;). After drying, you can either cut the paper out of the tape borders before using it, or write on it first, so the ink can dry completely without it warping the paper either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-10-27T17:05:53.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8630" CreationDate="2020-10-30T01:18:45.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some sources found:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(More pertaining to the first image)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Don't think their is a definite term per se, but here is some info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Term 1: &amp;quot;Illustration on photo/photograph&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When searching Google with these terms, came across the original artist related to image 1:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.behance.net/gallery/53008399/Vector-covered-souls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.behance.net/gallery/53008399/Vector-covered-souls&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The tools used were Adobe Illustrator Draw.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Term 2: Vector drawing over photo/photograph.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;From the artists portfolio they seem to have a series of vector images drawn over top of portraits of human faces. So this might be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other terms Googled terms to look into: &amp;quot;Cartoon drawing over photography&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2020-11-06T18:27:55.013" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T18:27:55.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6184" CreationDate="2020-10-30T14:35:06.013" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all it depends on the type of Glue Gun that you have, if it is of a good quality, and has a good heating system in place, and you are sure that it won't fuse or burst of do something of that sort when you are playing around with it, only then think of doing something like this because after all it is an electrical equipment, and care has to be taken. And second, I have made this very mistake. I have fused by glue gun, have had it's wire burn by it, and shorted my house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite those horrible personal experiences, I would still say that it is fine to do so. But what will tend to happen if you don't keep the glue gun facing down (towards the end where the glue is coming out from), is that the glue will leak from the wrong end.(depending of Course on the angle of your Gun, which like I said, must be around perpendicular to the ground)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as care is taken, you can keep adding in thinner sticks, and it will work fine, though you may have to push it with the your hand because the gripper in the gun may not be for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you do happen to leak the glue, then you can use something like a plucker or tweaser or something that can pluck out the dried glue (yes turn if off) and once all the dried glue that leaked is out, you can proceed to putting another stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are however not prepared for such circumstances, are under the age of 14, don't have adult supervision, then your short answer is NO, otherwise, if you are in some sort of emergency, then your answer is YES&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9803" LastActivityDate="2020-10-30T14:35:06.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7887" CreationDate="2020-11-02T14:47:32.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a chart for metric/US/UK conversions with crochet hook sizes as welll:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Metric(mm)       US       UK      Crochet&#xA;2.0              1        14       --&#xA;2.25             1        13       B&#xA;2.5              1.5      --       --&#xA;2.75             2        12       C&#xA;3.0              2.5      11       --&#xA;3.25             3        10       D&#xA;3.5              4        --       E&#xA;3.75             5        9        F&#xA;4.0              6        8        G&#xA;4.5              7        7        --&#xA;5.0              8        6        H&#xA;5.5              9        5        I&#xA;6.0              10       4        J&#xA;6.5              10.5     3        K&#xA;7.0              --       2        --&#xA;7.5              --       1        --&#xA;8.0              11       0        L&#xA;9.0              13       00       --&#xA;10.0             15       000      --    &#xA;12.0 - 12.75     17       --       --&#xA;15.0 - 16.0      19       --       --&#xA;19.0             35       --       -- &#xA;20.0             36       --       -- &#xA;25.0             50       --       --&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also attached a link below to a printable version that may be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sheepandstitch.com/library/knitting-needle-sizes-conversion-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knitting Needle Sizes and Conversion Chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9812" LastEditorUserId="9812" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T23:42:50.970" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T23:42:50.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-02T20:37:28.567" Score="7" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add hatching to my charcoal drawings. But vine or charcoal pencils are very soft so the hatching lines become way too thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do artists use to create beautiful charcoal hatching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to do the hatching with pencil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9815" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T08:27:45.537" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T20:18:35.753" Title="Charcoal hatching" Tags="|drawing|charcoal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8643" CreationDate="2020-11-03T02:56:04.100" Score="3" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been crocheting for a while, and I've recently started giving amigurumi (basically crochet stuffed animals/things) a try. I've been able to do balls and variations, but I bought a kit to make a sloth. I'm having a lot of trouble understanding some of the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really stumped on this step (please note, that at this point I've made two small, separate legs, and this part will be joining these legs as I make the body. One leg if fastened off, the other is NOT fastened off):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Rnd 11&lt;/strong&gt;: Join legs as follows: Ch 8, sc around the 9 sts of first leg, working in ch 8, sc 8, sc 9 sts of second leg, &lt;strong&gt;working in front loop only&lt;/strong&gt; of ch-8, sc in next 8 ch - 34 sts.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really lost on what to do here. I know what single crochet is, what stitches are, how to only work in the first loop, but all these small details are lost on me, so I don't even know how to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a pic of the finished product, I'm working with the two bottom legs, which will be joined and continue to form the body:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D118c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D118c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone provide some more details? The instructions for this kit aren't very detailed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9817" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T08:26:47.150" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T19:53:02.230" Title="Crochet/amigurumi: joining two pieces" Tags="|crocheting|amigurumi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8642" CreationDate="2020-11-03T19:40:36.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Rnd 11: Join legs as follows: Ch 8, sc around the 9 sts of first leg, working in ch 8, sc 8, sc 9 sts of second leg, working in front loop only of ch-8, sc in next 8 ch - 34 sts.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the instructions broken down into separate steps. In parentheses at the end of each step is how many stitches you should have created since the start of the first step. The new stitches added in the current step are in bold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8 ch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place 1 sc in each of the 9 stitches of the first leg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;8 ch + &lt;strong&gt;9 sc in first leg&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Single crochet 8 in the starting ch 8* that you made in step 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;8 ch + 9 sc in first leg + &lt;strong&gt;8 sc in ch8&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place 1 sc in each of the 9 sts of the second leg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;8 ch + 9 sc in first leg + 8 sc in ch8 + &lt;strong&gt;9 sc in second leg&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Working along the starting ch8 again, place 1 sc in the front loop of each ch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;8 ch + 9 sc in first leg + 8 sc in ch8 + 9 sc in second leg + &lt;strong&gt;8 sc in front loops of ch8&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*In step 3, be sure to work each single crochet stitch into the corresponding chain stitch, rather than just working them into the loop formed by the entire chain. That way you will have access to the front loop of each chain stitch when you get to step 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a sketch of where these steps will fall on the actual body of the toy. The ch8 forms the start of the crotch. The next round will almost certainly be to work sc in the top of the first leg, then along the line of sc in the ch 8 from step 3 above, then around the sc of the second leg, then along the other side of the ch8 in the sc in front loop from step 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmeSF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmeSF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastEditorUserId="8690" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T19:53:02.230" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T19:53:02.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8641" CreationDate="2020-11-03T20:18:35.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the sharp edge of your charcoal for finer line work: on a break in the piece or along the edge of the flat area created during shading, or sanded down for this purpose. Renew the edge you are using often to keep it sharp. A rectangular style charcoal may work better for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, any stylus based tool can be used to make hatch marks, so yes to using a pencil. Go with a soft one (B4 for example) so it matches the charcoal's tone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could go with a harder charcoal. One that may not be good for shading because it is too hard would do well for thin line work as long as it doesn't tear the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T20:18:35.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3716" CreationDate="2020-11-04T11:39:46.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried several methods found online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stitching through the pompom works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use waxed thread/string and a triple knot to tie tightly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tie the wool to attach to a hat or gold ribbon for Xmas pompoms round as well and the waxed thread doesn't show.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then tie round the pompom at right angles to the first one also with the waxed thread and triple knot in this direction too. This holds the pompom together pretty well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have done this cross over to existing pompoms to stabilize them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waxed floss works as well and is really invisible.&#xA;Hope this helps. Eileen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9823" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T11:39:46.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-05T11:00:18.423" Score="4" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;What coat can I apply on a gallery canvas (before painting on top of it) to prevent it from yellowing over time?  I'm planning to leave some parts of the canvas unpainted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9427" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-11-09T19:35:02.563" LastActivityDate="2021-08-12T13:56:53.670" Title="Preparing Canvas to Prevent Yellowing Over Time?" Tags="|preservation|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8649" CreationDate="2020-11-05T19:31:08.290" Score="5" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy lots of candles, which means I end up with lots of candle holders. I want to be able to reuse these containers, in some cases for food storage since some of the candles are in jars. This means I need to completely eliminate all of the wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I ensure that the container is free of any wax residue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-11-10T08:10:54.927" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T08:10:54.927" Title="How can I completely clean an old candle container?" Tags="|upcycling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8648" CreationDate="2020-11-05T21:08:20.537" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done similar things after using food containers for candles.  You may not actually need all these steps, but this is how to be very thorough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd do is put them in a cool oven, just hot enough to thoroughly melt the wax (100°C should be enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, put them face down supported on wires over a drip tray.  The vast majority of the wax will run out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, still hot, and holding using oven gloves, wipe the insides thoroughly with a dry rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of food safety, while I doubt you could ever reuse the containers commercially within the rules, I'd probably be happy at that point to use containers from  unscented candles.  After all, paraffin wax and beeswax are both used in food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd still go a step further though, and definitely if anything scented had been in there: Finally, put them through a dishwasher on a hot wash (70°C or above).  Paraffin wax and beeswax both melt a little below this, and once melted the dishwasher will remove the residue and any scent.  Shifting the scent may actually be the tricky bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://medium.com/koreanmom/different-waxes-and-melt-points-for-candle-making-d3e03da397e&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apparently&lt;/a&gt; container candles are best made with lower melting point waxes anyway, so they should easily melt in the dishwasher.  The earlier steps were more to protect your filters. If any scent lingers after dishwashing, either give up on that container, or wipe round with cooking oil, then fill to the brim with hot soapy water.  Dishwash again after soaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there's no guarantee that the containers can withstand a dishwasher.  Paint (or glitter etc.) on the outside would be particularly likely to be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-11-05T21:08:20.537" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8648" CreationDate="2020-11-05T21:37:35.677" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to quite a few web sites, but specifically &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/beeswax&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Science Direct&lt;/a&gt;, beeswax is insoluble in water, but soluble in a few different liquids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beeswax is insoluble in water and soluble in organic solvents, such as&#xA;ether, acetone, xylol, benzene, chloroform, and tetrachloromethane. In&#xA;order to completely dissolve the beeswax, the temperature must be&#xA;increased beyond its melting point (Stefan, 2009).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For paraffin based wax solvents, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/17109/how-to-dissolve-candle-wax-paraffin&quot;&gt;Chemistry SE&lt;/a&gt; suggests other solvents, specifically toluene or xylene. I have a quart of toluene in my garage, which implies that it was purchased a local big-box store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethanol and acetone are not non-polar organic solvents. Each one has a&#xA;slight dipole moment; due to the difference of electronegativity&#xA;between H and O in ethanol and between C and O in acetone. Wax is&#xA;composed of heavy, long-chain alkanes. And as &amp;quot;Like dissolves like&amp;quot;&#xA;try to dissolve your wax in toluene or in xylene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many of the links I viewed, elevated temperatures are indicated. Not explosive level heat, just warmer than room temperature, perhaps hot hot water temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-11-05T21:37:35.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8648" CreationDate="2020-11-06T10:17:58.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recycled several glass candle containers into &amp;quot;whisky glasses&amp;quot;. I put a squirt of washing up liquid in the bottom, then poured boiling water in, and left to soak/melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After they were mostly clean, rinsed out, then stuck in the sink, again with lots of washing liquid, and filled with boiling water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Didn't get any breakages, and the &amp;quot;glasses&amp;quot; came out nice and clean - a couple needed a bit of extra scrubbing to loosen any &amp;quot;baked on&amp;quot; wax, but afterwards perfectly usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9832" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T10:17:58.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8654" CreationDate="2020-11-06T20:38:37.910" Score="6" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a small figurine (about 6 cm / 2 inches high) of a Kodama from the movie Princess Mononoke. They are tree spirits, have a vaguely humanoid body and an oddly shaped head that rattles when rotated. The head is roughly as big as the rest of the body, so it would be 3 cm / 1 inch in my figurine. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/s_xp7T8Mmz4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;short clip showing their appearance and their rattling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to either 3D print the head as a hollow object or use a small plastic container that I can deform with a lighter. I want to mount the head on a spring scavanged from the tip of a ball pen. But I don't know how I can make it rattle. I was thinking about putting a bead or small marble into the head cavity, but you need to shake the head a lot more than the typical movement shown in the movie to make it rattle. Small beads also wouldn't produce a remotely similar sound to that in the movie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an idea how to make a Kodama head rattle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T05:55:02.263" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T05:55:02.263" Title="How to make rattling Kodama figurine?" Tags="|material-selection|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-06T22:04:52.223" Score="4" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been drawing and painting for a while now on smaller paper sizes, i.e. up to 11&amp;quot; x 14&amp;quot;. I am looking to &amp;quot;go bigger&amp;quot; upwards to 18&amp;quot; x 24&amp;quot; possibly even 24&amp;quot; x 36&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking at purchasing a paper cutter/trimmer with the possibility of cutting matboard as well. I have seen some of the mat cutters by Logan on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/brands/logan/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dickblick.com&lt;/a&gt;. I have used both rotary and guillotine cutters and I prefer the rotary type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be better to get one tool that does both paper and matboard? Or would it be better to get two different cutters? Also, what kinds of features would I need to look for in the cutter/trimmer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9726" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T14:07:32.680" Title="Guidance on what to look for in a paper cutter/trimmer" Tags="|tool-selection|paper-cutter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8652" CreationDate="2020-11-08T03:52:41.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To really mimic that sound experience, I'd recommend using multiple small pieces of something in the cavity. A single piece would have to bump against its enclosure to make a sound, but many objects inside will produce noise against each other as well as the enclosure. (While a single Kodama may actually produce only a small rattle on its own, I rather like the idea of being able to hear the raindrop-like patter of many at once...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ball bearings are metallic, but en masse they will have a more &amp;quot;rattle&amp;quot; than &amp;quot;chiming&amp;quot; sound, particularly if enclosed in a non-metallic casing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aquarium gravel will give an authentic stone sound. Since the shapes are irregular rather than spherical, it may contribute to the natural pattern that is heard in the linked video.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T03:52:41.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-09T15:11:37.160" Score="4" ViewCount="1409" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please see the picture below: I am making the stocking with the Christmas tree. The person’s name is Geraldine. If I use the duplicate stitch, the name will wrap around which I don’t want. I am looking for alternatives to add the name. All the other family stockings have a name, so initials are not an alternative. I am pretty creative, so I am open to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cdlhz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cdlhz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9838" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-11-09T20:01:02.403" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T08:08:24.993" Title="Custom name too long for christmas stocking when using duplicate stitch" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8655" CreationDate="2020-11-09T18:48:35.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With names such as Joe and Deb, it's easy to see that they work well in the current position. The longer name of Geraldine requires greater flexibility in the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thought is to place the name in a vertical position, but I suspect that would make for difficult stitching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thought is to create a tag separately from the stocking, perhaps with the lanyard stitched to the stocking. This would also be suspended vertically, but would be an easier creation and integrate more fluidly with the stocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If more than one stocking is being created with individual names, you'd want to have all of them as tags, regardless of length of the name, for consistency's sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-11-09T18:48:35.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8660" CreationDate="2020-11-09T18:55:24.820" Score="2" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/Staedtler-526-50-Plastic-Eraser/dp/B007JTFWHQ/ref=pd_sim_nf_229_6/260-9609337-7090010?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;pd_rd_i=B007JTFWHQ&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=16e85310-cf92-45b2-a929-7ec50424f894&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=xsl9B&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=NzXtw&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=54df233f-5813-4d75-a5f8-61381125c7f3&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=Q1WG6EVE0R3W5V8ZF1FX&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=Q1WG6EVE0R3W5V8ZF1FX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic eraser&lt;/a&gt; and this is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/Apsara-Non-Dust-Jumbo-Erasers/dp/B00LQJ09BO?ref_=Oct_s9_apbd_orecs_hd_bw_b3v2a5X&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=A3QKX37GE8FX6YTYSXYP&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=2bb542e3-b522-52dd-9619-1a6a8d7b6b17&amp;amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=BROWSE&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=3591265031&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rubber eraser&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between the two and which one should be preferred for which kind of drawing?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Why is there such a huge price difference between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/amp/s/keetonsonline.wordpress.com/2013/11/14/5-types-of-erasers-every-artist-should-know-about/amp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Says plastic eraser can tear paper&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinyl erasers, also called plastic erasers, are the toughest erasers on this list. If not used carefully, they can easily tear through paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2020-11-10T03:44:48.090" LastActivityDate="2020-11-12T00:46:58.920" Title="Plastic eraser vs Rubber eraser" Tags="|drawing|erasers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8659" CreationDate="2020-11-09T19:22:03.460" Score="2" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I saw that erasers can also be of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B073B8HKJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;black colour&lt;/a&gt;. Would the colour matter in terms of better cleaning/erasing? Can a black eraser perform better that a white one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thespruce.com/best-erasers-4589998&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;because of this eraser’s black color, you can expect your paper to&#xA;stay clean and smudge-free, no matter how many times you need to erase&#xA;a mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T07:39:16.320" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T07:39:16.320" Title="Does the colour of the eraser matter?" Tags="|erasers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8658" CreationDate="2020-11-09T20:17:46.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The color isn't really what matters, its the quality and type of eraser. Almost all erasers are dyed, so that's the only thing that effects the color. Depending on the materials you're using and types of canvas/paper, different erasers will work better.  So if the black eraser was better quality, then yes, but overall, the color means nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2020-11-09T20:17:46.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8657" CreationDate="2020-11-09T21:50:42.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;rubber&amp;quot; eraser you linked to actually looks like a plastic eraser.  &amp;quot;Rubber erasers&amp;quot; typically refer to the type on the end of a wooden pencil or a block like the Pink Pearl eraser.  There are many other types of erasers; I'll focus on just the two in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an interesting historical aside, the first erasers were made of rubber but the &amp;quot;rubber&amp;quot; in &amp;quot;rubber eraser&amp;quot; comes from the fact that when erasers were invented by accident in the late 1700's, the term &amp;quot;rubber&amp;quot; was in common use for any object used for rubbing&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eraser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber erasers aren't usually made from natural rubber any more.  They're a rubbery plastic or synthetic rubber that contains a lot of plasticizer and some abrasive filler material, the amount of which varies.  Rubber erasers are generally good for pencil lines, although the surface can get saturated with graphite and then start smearing it around.  Decades ago, ink erasers were rubber erasers with more abrasive.  They were harder and erased the ink by sanding away the paper surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic erasers are a soft, rubbery plastic, often vinyl, with no abrasive filler.  They are generally better than rubber erasers for most purposes.  They erase pencil marks more effectively and with less tendency to smear.  They can sometimes remove ink marks without tearing up the paper surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've come across articles like the quote added to the question, that claim plastic erasers are hard, or they more easily tear the paper.  I've used them for probably decades and have no idea where those claims come from.  Plastic erasers are more effective and require less pressure and rubbing.  The paper is more likely to be damaged by using a rubber eraser that smears the pencil marks, then requires more aggressive rubbing to clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic erasers tend to be more expensive than the rubber erasers.  It's possible that they are more expensive to produce, but I suspect pricing is based on what the market will bear and the size of each market.  Rubber erasers are adequate for school and a lot of general office and personal use.  Plastic erasers are more in demand for more critical applications like art and drafting, where users will spend more for better performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying single erasers often carries a huge price markup that has little to do with the manufacturing cost of the eraser.  If you buy packages of three or more, or especially, a bulk box of 10 or 12, you can often get a lot of erasers for what you would spend on a couple of individual erasers.  Even if it takes you a long time to go through them, the initial purchase won't break the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure of the monetary conversions for the prices in your links.  Looking at prices in the US market, you can easily find packages of two or three rubber erasers at around $0.50 per eraser.  In-store at a retailer like Walmart, you can get a package of two for less than $0.50.  For the plastic erasers, you can find bulk packages of 10 or 12 at $0.50 per eraser, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07144DC8V&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these brand name erasers through Amazon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-11-10T04:52:52.340" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T04:52:52.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8655" CreationDate="2020-11-10T04:14:39.230" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Knit a matching strip in a thinner yarn at a tighter gauge. Sew the strip onto the stocking after stitching letters onto it. That way you have more stitches per inch, so you can fit more letters in using duplicate stitch. Since the letters will be shorter, arrange them diagonally so they don't look lost in the middle of that tall strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eTcOI.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eTcOI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a skinnier font. It looks like your pattern makes the letters four stitches wide. Most letters can be made three stitches wide, as in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.subversivecrossstitch.com/products/font-skinny-font-pc-stitch-version?_pos=3&amp;amp;_sid=08bb05024&amp;amp;_ss=r&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;skinny cross stitch font&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f8cbK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f8cbK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&amp;amp;pc=christmasstocking&amp;amp;sort=best&amp;amp;view=captioned_thumbs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;other Christmas stocking patterns&lt;/a&gt; for ideas about how to fit a longer name on a stocking. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/christmas-stocking-collection&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt; has some 6- and 7-letter examples. It uses lowercase for all but the first letter. You can get away with making lowercase letters skinnier than uppercase, especially because &amp;quot;Geraldine&amp;quot; has an L and an I, each of which can be one stitch wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVZ4a.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVZ4a.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/santanooga-choo-choo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an example&lt;/a&gt; where they squeezed &amp;quot;Savanna&amp;quot; onto a stocking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXCbc.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXCbc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a vertical white stripe next to the tree, joining the top and bottom horizontal white stripes. I would start the stripe at the center of the front of the leg. You might need to slightly offset the Christmas tree towards the back of the sock. Work the name down the vertical stripe, and fill in the now blank top white stripe with matching holly leaves from the bottom white stripe. (Sorry about the terrible Microsoft Paint job, but it should give the idea of how the layout would work.) I think the vertical stripe will look like an intentional design element, not something slapped on. Depending on how the stitch count works out, you might start the name in the top white stripe or just below that stripe, and extend it into the bottom white stripe or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHej8.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHej8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Embroider the letters instead of doing duplicate stitch. Type &amp;quot;GERALDINE&amp;quot; into a word processor, and play with the font size until it fits in the required space. Try different fonts; some fonts are skinnier than others. In Microsoft Word, if you make a &amp;quot;word art&amp;quot; object, you can also control the spacing between letters. Print out the name, put tracing paper over the page, and trace the letters. Pin the tracing paper on the stocking, stitch through the paper, then rip off the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Embroider or ink the name on a piece of fabric. Sew the fabric onto the stocking. For the fabric, use soft flannel, fleece or felt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make the white strip double-height. Split the name into two lines. You could reduce the amount of red under the tree to keep the stocking a similar length. (I don't actually love this idea, but I thought it was worth including for comparison.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  GERAL&#xA;  DINE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-11-10T08:08:24.993" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T08:08:24.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8663" CreationDate="2020-11-10T11:42:43.763" Score="9" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;The UK is going into a second lockdown and I've decided to try drawing as a hobby to get away from my every day job of been a programmer. I did art at school and that was the last time I did anything arty, other than my photography, so I'd consider myself an absolute beginner at 48 years of age :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is I do not know where to begin to start training myself. I'll be using a drawing tablet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the type of art/drawing/sketching that interests me is pencil and inking. Stylized portraits and figures (I'm not after photo-realistic style), dioramas etc is kinda what I want to do &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As a beginning artist, do I begin with figure drawing, full figures and heads, and just try get proportions right, or do I go even more basic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I realise that becoming adequate is going to be years of practice, but I'd like to ensure I'm starting off on the correct path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9841" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-15T11:17:40.503" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T11:17:40.503" Title="What aspects of drawing should I focus on as a beginning artist?" Tags="|drawing|sketching|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2020-11-10T14:29:28.730" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some fundamentals that everyone who wants to draw needs to learn. (Not in order of importance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;#1 Control exercises&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make yourself comfortable with a pencil and paper, draw straight lines - 1/4, 1/2 and full width of a paper - draw  5 times over each line and try to hit the line as precicely as you can. Same thing for circles or ovals. Draw 2 Lines and fill the space between with - as perfect as possible - circles, or ovals. For very small things it is ok to &amp;quot;draw from your wrist&amp;quot;, but try to train to keep your wrist still and rather use your shoulder and elbow to make the movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;#2 Perspective&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn about 1-/2-/3-point-perspective and vanishing points. Start with very simple forms like a cylinder or a cube and draw them from different angles. Put some simple objects on a table and draw these forms in a composition. Try to draw some stills with more complex objects, or use some photos of streets from different views.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;#3 Shape and form&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with simple objects and try to create more complex forms. You can draw some random &amp;quot;blob&amp;quot; and try to define a 3 dimensional shape by drawing contour lines in that form. Like a wire frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;#4 Value and Light&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to create convincing 3 dimensional forms you need to control your values. Always start with black and white. Use a simple value scale of 5 values. White is the lightest, black the darkest 50% grey the middle. Learn to understand highlights, reflected light, core, cast and occlusion shadows. Add more lights and complex forms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;#4 Anatomy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a ton of really good resources online to learn anatomy for artists. Get a book about it - I always used this: &lt;em&gt;The Complete Guide to Anatomy for Artists &amp;amp; Illustrators from Gottfried Bammes&lt;/em&gt;. I cant remember the Website but when I trained figure drawing, there was a site where you were shown a picture of someone in a specific pose and you could set a timer for how long you wanted that picture to be shown. Train to do poses in 10s, 60s, 10minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what type of learner you are you might want to search for some resources on each topic, get some books or just trial and error. Always use some reference even for relatively simple things.Get a sketchbook and carry it around. But most importantly &lt;strong&gt;have fun !&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T14:29:28.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8666" CreationDate="2020-11-11T10:17:42.657" Score="5" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I rub it in sandpaper then it's sharp edges will become round in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting the eraser means wasting the eraser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can plastic erasers be cleaned by soap or any such thing by which I can protect the sharp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T10:51:54.307" Title="How to clean a plastic eraser?" Tags="|erasers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8667" CreationDate="2020-11-11T17:01:28.343" Score="3" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just now saw Sakura Foam erasers. They are rated higher than Staedtler Mars Plastic erasers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are they different than plastic erasers? Do they actually contain foam?&#xA;Do they perform better than plastic erasers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we have to maintain them in a different way as compared to plastic and rubber erasers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T18:46:48.897" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T20:10:17.930" Title="What are foam erasers?" Tags="|erasers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8664" CreationDate="2020-11-11T17:12:06.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;How to clean a plastic eraser?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal choice is to use a blank piece of paper and &amp;quot;erase the dirt&amp;quot; from the eraser onto the paper. If you have shaped your eraser with a knife or sandpaper, this method will be the least destructive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other methods found online. Most curiously, I found a WikiHow article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-an-Eraser#:%7E:text=Cutting%20your%20eraser%20will%20also,cleaning%20its%20blemishes%20from%20it.&amp;amp;text=You%20may%20even%20be%20able,dry%20completely%20before%20using%20it.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;3 Ways to Clean an Eraser&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; that describes using a borax solution to clean an eraser. The article is mostly aimed at rubber erasers, but I don't know if the borax solution would work on plastic erasers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9726" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T17:12:06.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8665" CreationDate="2020-11-11T20:10:17.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find any information on what exactly foam erasers are made of, but my guess would be a microporous reticulated foam (like melamine foam, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foam erasers are universally lauded as being &lt;strong&gt;excellent in cleaning graphite off of paper&lt;/strong&gt;, leaving (virtually) no traces, without having to put anything near as much power into the rubbing as one would with classic rubber, plastic, or vinyl erasers.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This also means you are less likely to damage the paper you're working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They produce larger pieces of waste material&lt;/strong&gt; - with the right technique you'll be able to produce a single piece of waste, which means cleaning up is far easier to do.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;There is no maintenance involved.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one caveat, however: as you write about the 'performance', we have to take into account the amount of material used in relation to the erasion power, and here these erasers fall a little short: being foam, &lt;strong&gt;they are consumed a lot faster than standard erasers&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T20:10:17.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8657" CreationDate="2020-11-12T00:46:58.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of drawing you're doing, the drawing medium and the type of paper you are using are determining factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing technical drawings on a smooth, heavyweight paper, or paper with a &amp;quot;shiny&amp;quot; surface due to size, plastic erasers will be the way to go most of the time, although you may occasionally need a rubber eraser with some abrasive qualities to get rid of &amp;quot;scored&amp;quot; lines (hard sharp lines produced by 2H and harder pencils in engineering or architectural drawings that leave indentations in the paper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you are producing artwork using soft textured papers you will probably need kneaded (gummy) erasers, as rubber and vinyl wil tend to flatten the areas you erase, leaving &amp;quot;shiny&amp;quot; spots, and any abrasive in the eraser will fray the surface or even tear the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gummy erasers  are also the way to go if you draw with charcoal or pastels, as plastic erasers will smear those types of media rather than lifting them from the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2020-11-12T00:46:58.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4229" CreationDate="2020-11-12T01:18:56.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandblasting gives the best effect, but if you don't have the equipment or want to spend money acquiring it, and can't/don't want to just apply the stencil/masking and take it to someone else to sand blast, acetone is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm skipping the other mechanical methods, as they take a lot more time, patience and skill to give pleasing results (e.g. trying to use a rotary engraving tool for the first time usually leads to cursing and disappointment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use too much acetone at a time, and don't pour or drip it onto the surface as any drips will also react immediately anywhere it touches the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work in a well ventilated area, as acetone is very volatile, and breathing the fumes is not a great idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be safe, you can dab acetone on using a cloth, cotton wool or even ear buds for smaller areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your masking/stencil seals properly to the surface and doesn't allow liquid to get underneath the masking and rinse with lots of water immediately after application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reaction is much faster than when you etch glass. You can always apply more acetone if the initial effect is not as pronounced as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your piece is not too large, you can also create the frosted effect by coating your entire piece in parrafin wax (inside too) then removing the wax over the areas you want to frost/etch and exposing the piece to acetone fumes in a closed container over a period of time.  This requires some experimentation to find the correct amount of acetone for your container volume and the amount of time to leave your acrylic in the container, as different types of acrylic surfaces will etch differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are too impatient to vapour etch, you can use a fine atomiser spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is actually less likely to end in disaster than most types of stencil or masking, as all the remaining surfaces, inside and out, are protected by the wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When finished, the wax can be removed using very hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make a mistake or the finished surface is too rough, use old fashioned white toothpaste to buff (ideally you would use a 3micron diamond polishing paste, but why break the bank for simple craft projects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some acids can be used to etch some plastics, but this is not a good area for experimentation unless you are very sure of your raw materials and the chemical reactions you can expect. Using the wrong combination can leave you with a permanently sticky surface or a melted puddle of plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, there are several types of &amp;quot;frosting spray&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;sandblast spray&amp;quot; paint available at most building/home DIY stores that are made to mimic the frosted glass look. They are not that wonderful, but it is an option. Just make sure you use the type made for plexiglass, not glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastEditorUserId="9490" LastEditDate="2020-11-13T22:21:12.363" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T22:21:12.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8671" CreationDate="2020-11-13T12:11:20.927" Score="3" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 600 pages e-book (PDF format). The size of its pages is 155 mm x 235 mm, and the left and right margins are of equal size (see the following image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ORMxI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ORMxI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to print it (on A4 paper and in actual size) for hardcover binding or perhaps paperback binding for my own use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing, should I add some extra white space to the left of the odd numbered pages and to the right of the even numbered pages, such that the output looks exactly like the Amazon or Springer pub. books? And how should I print them? For example: top-left of A4 paper for odd pages numbers and top right of A4 paper for even pages number? If so, is it 1/4 inch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9849" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-11-13T14:25:10.507" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T21:19:16.803" Title="Printing a PDF for proper book binding" Tags="|book-binding|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8670" CreationDate="2020-11-13T21:19:16.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Browse your local bookstore and have a look at the most popular formats for hardcover books, mass market and trade paperbacks before you decide (if you are looking to publish and sell your book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to copies for your own use, pick the format that is most comfortable to your eye / reading style (and your wallet, of course, some formats are more expensive to produce).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most decent desktop publishing software have a selection of standard/ popular layouts for book and booklet printing you can use, even MS Publisher has some that are not too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T21:19:16.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8673" CreationDate="2020-11-14T06:24:52.710" Score="5" ViewCount="932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this today:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Duiyg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Duiyg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Staedtler Mars Plastic Eraser Refillable Holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, if you tell me that it can be used to clean corners, yes initially it would but soon its edges would become round like other erasers. How will that be helpful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you say that it can be cut to get a new sharp edge, well then it can be done to other rectangle erasers too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When and why should this one be preferred over the rectangle erasers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T07:31:33.200" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T18:35:12.820" Title="Why would using an eraser holder be better than using a normal rectangle eraser?" Tags="|erasers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8672" CreationDate="2020-11-14T07:31:16.163" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of four benefits of using an eraser holder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It keeps the eraser clean so it doesn't pick up body oils from handling or other contaminants.  The eraser can be extended and retracted as needed, and you handle the holder rather than the eraser.  It minimizes transferring dirt to the paper and potentially smearing the graphite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The holder provides some rigidity for the relatively soft, rubbery eraser.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The holder has the feel and control of a pencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a convenient form factor to carry around.  It's the size of a mechanical pencil or pen and has a pocket clip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T07:31:16.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8664" CreationDate="2020-11-14T10:51:54.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dishwashing liquid and cold or slightly warm water works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't solve the problem, old fashioned white toothpaste can be used to sand/buff the surface, just rinse well when you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use hot water as it tends to soften the plastic, and let the eraser air dry for at least an hour after washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T10:51:54.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-14T19:20:03.783" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are such sewing machine available? Ones that start or stop or do reinforcement stitches by computer instruction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9471" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T01:32:29.807" Title="Are computer controlled sewing machine commercially available?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-11-15T10:10:08.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8675" CreationDate="2020-11-15T01:32:29.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of computer controlled sewing machines on the market. Brother is one company, Husqvarna, and a number of other manufacturers produce devices which use software running from a computer, which typically creates a file sent to the machine. The file contains instructions to be executed with respect to movement of the mechanism which shifts the fabric (encased in an embroidery hoop) and movement of the needle and thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above references consumer grade devices, possibly described as hobbyist level, although custom embroidery and sewing shops will use them for commercial use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you require industrial grade device related information, consider to clarify your question. I'd expect that industrial grade devices would be even more fully computer controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a client who manufacturers quilt producing machines. Many dozens of needles with corresponding thread spools, precise fabric movement, multiple fabric layers (of course, it's a quilt) and take-up systems for the completed product. At the time I was able to view the systems, they were operating on an embedded Windows XP OS, which also contained the software to generate the stitching and related operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T01:32:29.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8685" CreationDate="2020-11-15T02:58:04.130" Score="3" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm knitting a miniature mitten in the round (for a tea cosy). I start the mitten with Judy's Magic cast on, and it goes well until I get to the thumb, where the pattern calls for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;previous row = 12 stitches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;CO 3 sts, cast off/bind off 3 sts, knit to end of rnd.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;  (CO meaning cast on)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next line tells me to keep on knitting and do a two stitch decrease&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the picture this should give me a little bump of a thumb, but all I'm getting is 3 big holes and no thumb at all. What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for reading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastEditorUserId="8768" LastEditDate="2020-11-19T02:29:14.433" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T02:29:14.433" Title="How to knit a thumb on a (fake) mitten?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8672" CreationDate="2020-11-15T18:35:12.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;additional to the accepted answer&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accuracy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing something small/fine like a technical drawing, or a piece of artwork with little space, then a rubber/eraser like this will allow precise control over the lines removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rubber block we've used in the past is more like a chunky child's crayon.&#xA;Would you prefer thick or thin crayon for accuracy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downside, there's less consumable in this holder, so it wears quicker, but you're removing less each time you use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8130" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T18:35:12.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8677" CreationDate="2020-11-15T23:03:52.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried the instructions from your pattern as written, and it gave me a single hole with a string running across it. That string would be a problem in a real mitten, but it might be okay for a decorative one. Presumably the pattern will have you pick up stitches around the edge of the hole and knit a thumb. I have no idea how you're getting 3 holes. Please add a photo of that, and maybe we can give you some more customized troubleshooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normal way to make a thumb opening is to bind off stitches on one round. On the next round, cast on an equal number of stitches. So for your pattern, it would go like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thumb round 1:&lt;/em&gt; Bind off 3 sts, knit to end of round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thumb round 2:&lt;/em&gt; Cast on 3 sts, knit to end of round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the main part of the mitten is done, you would pick up 6 or 7 sts around the edge of the thumb hole, knit several rounds to make a tube, then decrease with one round of all k2tog, then break yarn and draw it through the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T23:03:52.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8682" CreationDate="2020-11-17T01:09:51.000" Score="5" ViewCount="3208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to help our boys (5 and 7 years old) make their mother something &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/664314583/gift-for-grandma-grandmas-birthday-gift?epik=dj0yJnU9b0RMeXhUNlZFSTB1bVdSb3Vla1lETnFaZWZPVnI2RGEmcD0wJm49X1dhM3NOUVFkbHNFZ0F6XzVKa3FxQSZ0PUFBQUFBRi15MW5z&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; for her birthday, but I have zero experience with painting beyond whatever I did in elementary school!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to (likely) put this on a canvas and need the paint to be safe for them to make their handprints out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What types of paint could I use that would be safe for them to dip their hands in for the handprint part, safe to work with (I'll make sure the space is well ventilated) and that is compatible with canvas or a similar material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless its the only option, I'm not interested in using washable/temporary paints, or using paper as the medium, because I would like this to look nice-ish and be something she could frame and put on the wall for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9867" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T11:45:36.303" Title="Types of paint safe for children to make handprints out of, on canvas" Tags="|painting|safety|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8680" CreationDate="2020-11-17T03:17:06.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they wear clothes you don't mind ruining (good quality acrylic paint will not wash out of cloth completely, ever) and you supervise and help them wash off the paint afterward and put down a large drop cloth to protect carpet/wooden floors (tile is cleanable), or do it outside, student grade acrylics should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At those ages they are unlikely to try eating the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did something similar with my daughter and nephews as a gift for their grandparents when the youngest was only three (granted a reasonably intelligent 3) only with many different prints in various colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the canvas is primed for acrylic. You can just buy a pre-stretched primed student canvas at an art/craft store or order online in the size you want. That way you don't have to have it framed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mBib9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T03:17:06.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8680" CreationDate="2020-11-17T06:49:40.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this particular project the consistency of the paint is the most important. It must be a soft paste that sticks to the hand and to the canvas. If the paint is too thick, just add a drop of water at a time. If the paint is too liquid, you'll end up with splashes and incomplete handprints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With children that age you can use almost any type of paint, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acryllic paint from a craft store&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watercolors in tubs (the ones intended for primary school students)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wall paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finger paints inteded for very young children (not recommended because of low quality)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the linked pictures they used semi transparent paint for the handprints which beautifully highlights all the lines and details of a hand. Your best bet to get such a semi transparent paint is an actual art store or a well-equiped craft store. All of the big paint manufacturers have a code for the properties of their paints. This is just an example from Schmiencke:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.schmincke.de/fileadmin/downloads/pdf/Farbkarten_2019/College_Acrylic_Colourchart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schmienke College Acryllic Colourchart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Semi transparent paints are marked with either a white square with a diagonal line or a square with one white and one black part. Other manufacturers may use a different code, so look for the color chart of the respective manufacturer. Some paints in the linked chart like orange, bordeaux, ultramarine blue, may green and ocre highlight differences in thickness of paint very nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paints that are not suited are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watercolors in hard blocks to be dissolved with water (you'll have a hard time getting them to the right consistency)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil paints because they need extrelely long to dry and you need chemicals to clean them that are harsh to the skin and airways&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word concerning the execution of the project:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handprints in the linked picture are too perfect. Natural handprints almost always have a gap in the middle of the palm because that's where the hand curves inwards. If you put your hand flat on a surface, the center of the palm won't actually touch the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part of the palm will not touch the canvas unless you gently press the canvas from behind. Since the canvas is suspended from the top of the wooden frame, you shouldn't let your children press too hard on it anyways. Either support the canvas (not the frame, but the fabric) from the backside or work together so that one child presses their paint covered hand on the front and you press the same area from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-11-17T11:45:36.303" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T11:45:36.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5697" CreationDate="2020-11-17T20:30:24.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the original author's case, the cause turned out to be what was intended by the manufacturer to be a wobble reducer.  The tool's collet sleeve contained a stepped area to center the end of the bit shaft, and the shaft was catching on that, forcing it to an angle (the accepted self-answer).  Many rotary tools don't have that stepped area.  There is another common reason for the bit to wobble as described in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotary tools spin at very high speed.  The slightest imbalance acts like a vibrator (vibrator mechanisms are typically a motor with an unbalanced spinning weight).  That imbalance can be from slight bending of the bit from excessive pressure, a minor manufacturing imperfection, uneven wear on the bit, crud stuck to the bit, etc.  Here are some things that will minimize or eliminate the wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the tool and bit individually:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean or blow out the collet sleeve, collet, nut, and threads.  Debris on the contacting surfaces can prevent the bit from being held straight.  Debris in the collet slots can prevent the collet from centering the bit.  Debris in general can unbalance the spinning assembly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect the bit.  Clean off any debris stuck to it.  Look for obvious signs of uneven wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the bit and run the tool at a very low speed (a few revolutions per second).  Watch the head of the bit.  If the bit isn't in straight, or is bent, or there is uneven wear, you can often see the head wobble from side to side at low speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tool and bit in combination:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the bit is inserted as far as possible into the collet rather than trying to extend the bit for extra reach (but don't insert it past the uniform portion of the shaft; the shaft often tapers where the head is attached, and the collet won't properly grab that area).  The farther out the head is from the collet, the more leverage the vibration will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run it at normal speed and see if it wobbles.  If it does after the previous steps, it's likely because it is unbalanced.  There's a process to compensate for minor imbalances (won't help with something like a bent or damaged bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a marker like an ultra-fine Sharpie to put a mark on the visible portion of the bit shaft in line with one of the slots in the collet (you can also extend the alignment mark onto the collet).  Loosen the collet nut, hold the collet, and rotate the bit in the collet.  Then hold the collet so it doesn't rotate in the sleeve and tighten the nut.  As a first pass, rotate the bit 180 degrees.  Run the tool at normal speed and see if the wobble is better or worse.  Repeat, trying 90 degrees in each direction from the original orientation.  Adjust the rotation of the bit until you find the minimum wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this entire procedure doesn't eliminate the wobble, check another new or known-good bit.  If you also can't eliminate the wobble on that one, it indicates the problem is with the tool.  It could have worn bearings, it could be damaged, or it could be just a cheap tool that lacks precision.  You may still be able to use it for awhile at a slower speed, but once it starts to wear out, the problem will accelerate.  If, on the other hand, the new bit doesn't wobble, it means the old bit is bad and its problem isn't correctable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T20:30:24.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8677" CreationDate="2020-11-19T02:27:56.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The author of the pattern was kind enough to write me back and I learned two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cast-on had to be done as a cable cast-on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was making the mistake of casting on 3 stitches and then casting off the subsequent 3 stitches (and turning my work in the process), when I actually just needed to cast them on and then immediately cast those same stitches off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all who were in interested in this question and offered to help, much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T02:27:56.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8723" CreationDate="2020-11-21T19:15:23.997" Score="3" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a commercial fabric, I would like to produce something similar. When I search on the internet the closest I find is lace weight wool yarns for sale (retail or wholesale), which are 2 to 3 times thicker for the smallest lace weight yarn found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured it at 72 WPI (wraps per inch), when in the woven fabric it has an epi (sett) of about 44.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QeSFt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QeSFt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;imperial ruler on fabric&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Imperial ruler on fabric&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FH2uj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FH2uj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;metric ruler on fabric&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Metric ruler on fabric&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thread/yarn is two-ply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fidI9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fidI9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;thread ply separated&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is supposed to be wool, what I will weave will be from 100% wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I find similar yarn in order to weave similar fabric?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9128" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T16:09:24.120" LastActivityDate="2021-12-15T16:09:24.120" Title="I am trying to identify / describe this wool thread / yarn" Tags="|fabric|yarn|weaving|wool|thread|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2456" CreationDate="2020-11-22T13:18:50.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the quality of the white in the picture and the white of the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the white in the picture is meant to be true white, like snow or the glint in an eye, it is worth to stitch it with pure white thread.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But if it is just 'not part of the picture' as you often have in cross stitch (and other embroidery) work you can easily leave it open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is a case of seeing the picture and the white in it, and the colour of the canvas, to see whether you need to embroider those bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a sampler you will never fill all the canvas. In a pillow you will usually fill all. In pictures to be framed, as you seem to make, you are free to fill or not, as you see fit with the colours you work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2020-11-22T13:18:50.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-23T06:11:42.430" Score="3" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know how you're supposed to properly block knitting (get it wet, squeeze it out, stretch it/pin it and let it air dry). However, I'm assuming that if I'm knitting something that will be put through the washing machine and air-dried, any effect of the blocking would be lost when that's done. So &lt;strong&gt;should I just &amp;quot;block&amp;quot; the piece by putting it through the washer and laying it flat to dry&lt;/strong&gt;, just like it will be for subsequent washes? I'm working with &amp;quot;washable blends&amp;quot; and will follow the washing instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I agree that knitted garments should be looked after more carefully than regular laundry, but I just know that's unrealistic for the person I'm knitting for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T07:17:43.397" Title="Blocking knitting using the washing machine?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8694" CreationDate="2020-11-23T06:46:12.287" Score="7" ViewCount="12422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a paper craft artist. I have a pdf file which I need to take a printout on black paper.&#xA;If I take print on black paper, I cannot see the lines and numbers. These lines and numbers, I need for cutting purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I print on black paper? I have a Epson L3150 Ink tank printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9703" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T09:41:33.273" Title="Printing on Black Paper" Tags="|paper|printing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8690" CreationDate="2020-11-23T07:15:33.870" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print on regular white paper.  Adhere the print to the black paper with rubber cement or temporary adhesive.  Do the cutting, and scoring if needed (light scoring can also be used to mark glue edges and similar feature lines).  When you're ready to assemble, peel off the white paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T07:15:33.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8689" CreationDate="2020-11-23T07:17:43.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blocking is usually a one-time process for knitwear. It's used to even out the stitches in a single piece and to stretch several pieces to make the seams fit exactly before sewing them together. If your knitting is tight and even enough for your taste or the pieces fit just fine, you can get away without blocking at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blocking is especially useful for delicate and &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; knitting patterns with holes, like lace, net or ajour / open work. The less tight your knitting is, the more it will benefit from blocking.&#xA;The steaming (or heating with an iron) of a just finished, blocked piece of knitting sets the fibres of the yarn into their current shape, &amp;quot;locking&amp;quot; the loops and curves of the knitting into the yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, blocking only needs to be repeated for lace doylies and similar pieces with a delicate geometric pattern. A sweater won't change it's shape much after the initial blocking (given it doesn't stretch due to vertical hanging). The best advice I'd give the person receiving the knitting it to first load the drying rack with whatever laundry there was in the machine and then lay the knitwear flat on top. If the knitwear has the tendency to shrink a little (I'm not talking about the shrinkage of wool, but some cotton sweaters have very tight sleeves when washed that stretch to their usual size after some wear), the person can gently stretch the wet sweater on the drying rack. That simulates blocking without all the efford involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T07:17:43.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8690" CreationDate="2020-11-23T07:25:40.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer ink is very hard - if not impossible - to see on black paper, because the ink soaks into the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser printer toner creates a very thin layer of molten plastic on top of the paper, so you might be able to see a yellow line on the black paper if you print it with a laser printer. (Unless you have a specialized printer with white toner, &amp;quot;white&amp;quot; is usually not printed at all, so yellow is your next best option.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The properties of toner also makes a printed line slightly more glossy than average office paper. You might be able to see a black toner line on black paper if you angle the paper so that light is reflected off the print lines. This has the advantage of making any lines you missed while cutting invisible in the finished project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T07:25:40.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8690" CreationDate="2020-11-23T19:46:02.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; print with white ink in many inkjet printers.  However, there are some very important notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not all printers will work well when this is done. In many cases this is due to the manufacturing of the ink itself.  Epson actually makes white ink for some select high-end printers. White will typically be a pigment-based ink rather than a dye-based ink as pigment will generally be more visible on darker colored papers.  Pigment-based inks, however, tend to be... &amp;quot;thicker&amp;quot; or heavier or more dense. In some inkjet printers, it simply won't work.  In some it'll work but will jam up the print heads rapidly.  Even in printers designed specifically to use pigment-based inks, white can still be difficult to work with and require much more care and maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With most software, even artists software, you typically cannot just have white on screen and print it as such.  The easiest way is to replace black with white and make what you want white appear black on screen.  In some software, you can also re-key your color space to CMYW rather than CMYK (though the K stands for key regardless of the color, it's typically black and so CMYW is a common placeholder for K = white). Otherwise, anything that's white on screen will not trigger any cartridge or tank to print anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this is something you may need to do regularly, it might be worth looking into dye-sublimation printers.  I'm not really so sure what the market looks like for this anymore, but many, many years ago I had an Alps printer that could do this - print in white, or print in white then another color to make the color stand out on black.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9887" LastEditorUserId="9887" LastEditDate="2020-11-24T15:03:01.120" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T15:03:01.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8690" CreationDate="2020-11-24T08:35:42.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have another answer that is 90% there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a black ink cartridge, empty it (print if possible), then fill it with white ink.   Most new printers read the codes on the cartridges so you need the black one so that your printer doesn't need 20 drivers and hours of troubleshooting.  (I am being very generic here and this will work great for 95% of printers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You got white ink in black cartridge...   put in the black paper and print.   You will need to play with the type of black paper that you get.  You may need to get glossy or something that doesn't &amp;quot;hold&amp;quot; the ink well so that you can boldly see the white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6153" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T08:35:42.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8699" CreationDate="2020-11-24T14:00:22.253" Score="7" ViewCount="1733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make the smallest legible lettering I can - miniature writing on normal paper or something thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in the context of craft with kids, so I'd like something affordable, also not too complicated.  We'd like to make Lego-scale books (menus), though as that's around 1:40, clearly we're not going to get normal type sizes.  Colours would be a significant bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I've done so far is with a 0.5 mm mechanical pencil (the finest I have to hand) and very light pressure - that gets me down to letters 1 mm high and 0.5 mm wide, limited by the stroke width as much as my skill. H- and F-grade pencils are similar even if sharpened with a scalpel. I've tried rubbing the pencil to a sharp point but that didn't help much.  You wouldn't fit many words on a page of say 10 mm high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt my skill is up to single-hair painting, but can't think of anywhere in between.  And yes, inkjet-printing is another option; we'll probably do some of that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2020-12-02T09:19:47.930" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T09:19:47.930" Title="What's the finest readily-available way to write on paper?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-24T14:43:14.343" Score="5" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband brought home some Christmas figures in 2019 after his Dad died. There are 12 of them, and they are choirboys singing and holding candles (the final one is a really little boy running to join the choir, with his candle tipped over). They are made of wood but they are flat, like someone cut them from a flat piece of wood - not plywood but something similar. We think they date from the 1950's, possibly earlier, because we're not sure when his parents got them or made them. They were stored in the basement for decades, a damp and extremely musty environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hubby replaced the metal stands that stick into the ground, and replaced the candles. They were originally wired together but we found LED battery powered lights and retrofitted them. We had them up last year but we think the paint needs to be touched up in a few places. So I'm looking for suggestions of what kind of paint we can use over what we think is oil based paint on wood. They will be outdoors for about 6 weeks and we can get snow but will probably get more rain and ice. Temps will probably be in the 30's and 40's F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9891" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T01:34:08.403" Title="Paint choices for updating outdoor Christmas figures that are wood" Tags="|paint|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2020-11-24T14:50:15.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smallest pen I have personally found is a 0.03 mm size pen; while it does leave a very small line, the tip is quite fragile and tends to break more often than my larger pens (including the 0.05, the next size up). It requires a delicate touch; while you would probably be fine with it, I wouldn't recommend handing it to kids, who haven't always developed the motor skills to be gentle with the pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 0.03 size is also fairly uncommon; typically, the smallest pen tips you'll find will be either 0.05 or 0.1. You can see a comparison of the line sizes in this sample image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JetPens&lt;/a&gt;, found in their product listings for Copic Multiliners, one of the brands that does carry this size of pen; Marvy and Deleter also sell a pen in this size. The image below is an actual sample of the pens, on an undisclosed lettering paper, to show comparative line weight and bleed between sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zTsYn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zTsYn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T15:20:12.193" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T15:20:12.193" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8690" CreationDate="2020-11-24T17:08:18.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll go with a completely different idea. Use a laser cutter, or vinyl or paper cutter to do your work. You already have a PDF, so you should be able to open it in a variety of software to send it to one of these machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a laser cutter to cut a lot of things, from acrylic sheets to leather and paper. It can leave very little residue when cutting something as thin as paper and it can cut it very cleanly, with the right settings. I normally use a 80-100 watt laser, but I've used a 40 watt to do smaller items. They make clean, crisp lines with just the smallest &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/kerf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kerf&lt;/a&gt;, usually less than a millimeter. They also give you the ability to rapidly reproduce your items. A K40 (40 watt), for example, is only a couple hundred dollars and is small enough to fit on a desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vinyl or paper cutter can do most of the same paper cutting as a laser can, but it'll have the scissor-like lack of kerf. Unfortunately, it doesn't do tiny or sharp corners or backtracks well, or at least easily. There's a variety of these machines around as well, but a popular desktop version is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cricut.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cricut&lt;/a&gt;. I haven't used one myself, but I hear lots of people like them, as well as some people dislike them. Just like anything else, it's a mixed bag of how people use things. This can also allow you to rapidly recreate your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These machines can often be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nationofmakers.us/find-a-makerspace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;maker/hacker-spaces&lt;/a&gt;. These are places that have a lot of DIYers who don't have the money to afford equipment or space for themselves, so they band together to pool their resources. Along with laser cutters, makerspaces often have CNC machine, 3D printers, sewing machines, and so much more, as well as the people to show you how to use them. These places can be found all around the world and in most major and medium sized cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T17:08:18.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2020-11-24T22:41:56.357" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to 3D print the whole book, including the letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or let the kids draw on your current books. Sometimes they have finer motor skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9897" LastEditorUserId="9897" LastEditDate="2020-11-25T08:41:24.747" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T08:41:24.747" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2020-11-25T01:27:48.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention the inkjet printing option.  I'll focus on that.  In a nutshell, you'll be disappointed, although it might be an option if you lack the skill and instruments to do miniature printing by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inkjet printers can lay down microscopic droplets of ink at very high DPI, but you don't really have control at that level.  They are designed to reproduce detail and color accurately down to the level you can readily see at a normal viewing distance.  Below that scale, the ink droplets are used to create optical illusions to simulate what you think is there.  The printer driver and printer electronics control all of that detail to create an approximation of what you ask it to print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tiny droplets are small enough to simulate smooth curves.  If you're printing in color, a large mass of mixed-color droplets is used to approximate the actual color from primary colors.  Color inaccuracies are compensated by making adjacent areas off-color.  At the scale of the individual droplets, droplet positioning is pretty imprecise, and some randomness is thrown in to avoid creating neat geometric patterns that your eye could detect as artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate the limitations, I created a little text using a simple font at a size of 3 pt, and printed it on regular printer paper.  Here is an enlargement (actual size is about 1 mm high:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8WvcN.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8WvcN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this scale, the ink wicking is significant relative to the size of the characters (although you could do better than this using photo paper).  You can see the &amp;quot;wiskers&amp;quot; and bleeding into the small voids within the characters.  You can see the aggregation of ink dots creating the character lines.  At this size, it's difficult for the printer to accurately reproduce the character geometry.  With normal 10 or 12 pt text, the characters would be large enough that these issues wouldn't be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With good font selection and photo paper, you could create readable text at 3 pt., but you might want to use a magnifying glass to read it if you don't have perfect vision.  It gets dicey as you go to smaller point sizes than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One benefit of inkjet over manual lettering is that it would be much faster.  Miniature writing by hand is something done slowly and carefully under a magnifier.  Also, you wouldn't risk spending a lot of time creating the miniature text and then accidentally ruin it with a stray mark.  With its limitations on readability, it still might be perfectly adequate if the objective is just to create the appearance of text and readability isn't critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T01:27:48.283" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-25T05:07:35.113" Score="6" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to decorate one of those “Yeti” brand insulated coffee cups for my brother for Christmas, and I am not sure what to use so that the decoration does not wash off. I have researched a bit but have only found tips for porcelain mugs, and the surface of this cup is more like a lacquered enamel. I will tell him to hand wash but expect that he will want to occasionally use the dishwasher to clean it. Has anyone had any luck with decorating on this type of surface and having it hold up to a lot of touching and washing? If so, how did you do it? Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9899" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T19:11:25.303" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T19:11:25.303" Title="Paint or marker for insulated cup decoration" Tags="|paint|tool-selection|safety|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2020-11-25T12:28:19.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a film camera&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design the text in large size on computer, and invert the colors in the image. It should have white text on black background now, and all colors should be inverted also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use an old film camera to take a photo of this, and get the film developed. It will take a week or so, but usually does not cost much. You don't need any prints, just the film negative. You can even get the chemicals for black and white home development for about 20 dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The height of the whole photo on film will be 24 mm. The typical resolution of camera film is about 50 lines per mm, which means that you should be able to get sharp text that is 0.1 mm high or even smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then cut out pieces of the film negative and glue them like any plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6856" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T12:28:19.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2020-11-25T13:25:42.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it wasn't the size of your pencil that limited you, but the hardness of the lead. Most mechanical pencil leads come in HB. The hardest pencil leads tend to be something like &amp;quot;9H&amp;quot;, although the names differ between brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a much harder pencil allows you to write much finer lines, but you have to press the lead harder into the paper. You can buy individual pencils of different hardnesses in stationary or craft shops. It doesn't even have to be a mechanical pencil. You can create a nice sharp tip on a regular pencil if the lead is hard enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remenber seeing someone write a long sentence on the back of a post stamp in TV, but I cannot find it anywehre on Youtube. He used regular lead pencils sharpened to a very fine point and switched pencils after a few words (to have a fresh tip).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T13:25:42.463" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8258" CreationDate="2020-11-25T13:37:57.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to reduce to one image, the bullet points/sequence need to be refined.  That is, your thinking and understanding of what it is you are exploring or engaging with needs to be refined.  Try drawing the four images, redrawing them and redrawing them again.  While you are drawing think about what is important to you in this sequence. What are you drawn to? Is it possible to separate it from these specific forms (vampire, coffee cup), or not? Where else does it exist? If you then respond to these questions through drawing and repeat the process again you will begin to generate a dialogue that will allow your sequence to reduce to one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9905" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T13:37:57.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5997" CreationDate="2020-11-25T14:17:29.793" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your work can be understood as a form of &lt;strong&gt;Contemporary Drawing&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;instead of seeing drawing as a preparatory form, as has been its traditional role, these artists invest time, skill and care in the production of finished pieces&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-britain/display/focus-slow-looking-contemporary-drawing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Tate on Contemporary Drawing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://drawingcenter.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawing Centre&lt;/a&gt; in New York, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.drawingnowartfair.com/?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Salon du Dessin Contemporain&lt;/a&gt; in Paris and the Phaidon publications &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.phaidon.com/store/art/vitamin-d-9780714857138/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vitamin D - New Perspectives on Drawing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9905" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T14:17:29.793" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2020-11-25T17:25:35.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I watched someone write multiple lines of text on a pebble that was coated with clear nail polish by using a single hair from an artist's brush dipped in India ink. I think the hair was from a watercolor brush. The writing was nearly microscopic but perfectly legible. The hair was retained by the split end of a dowel, which was held like a pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8865" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T17:25:35.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2020-11-25T19:39:10.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can fire artwork on porcelain and it will be permanent.  Pretty much any other surface won't be.  Even commercially applied artwork wears off and washes off eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know the actual surface material/finish (like by contacting the manufacturer), you can optimize the decoration for adhesion and durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can protect the decoration by building up a thick coating (via many light coatings) of a clear finish of some kind over the decoration.  A protective coating also makes optimizing the decoration material less important.  I'm not familiar with that particular cup but if the protected surface extends to the lip you drink from, the coating should be food-safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the coating starts to wear off or gets scratched or chipped, you could reapply it or touch it up while the decoration is still intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-11-25T19:39:10.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8764" CreationDate="2020-11-26T00:36:25.893" Score="3" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like this art style and would like to be able to find more like it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1AgOs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1AgOsm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click for larger version&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9911" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-05T11:04:36.083" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T12:01:31.487" Title="What art style is this?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8698" CreationDate="2020-11-26T01:34:08.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say you are limited to using oil based paints to do this. You cannot paint acrylics over oils as the paint will later peel off or flake away. My suggestion is to buy a small inexpensive set of oil paint tubes. You can can buy an art set for as little as $20AUD. After the paint has thoroughly dried, give it 2 or 3 coats of an outdoor varnish to seal and protect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9611" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T01:34:08.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3615" CreationDate="2020-11-26T08:52:02.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also use your feet instead of the two-chairs solution (my chair backs have an unsuitable shape, the unfolded hank tends to slip).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just sit on the couch, with your feet up (no shoes, obviously, and naked feet work best in my opinion), and put the unwrapped hank around both feet. Lean feet apart to tension slightly (prevent tangling); lean body forward and extend the yarn-guiding arm forward to unwrap the yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a visualization:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2Mfi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2Mfi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Using the feet as a yarn swift&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the winding of the ball, either use your thumb as a base or, more comfortably, any kitchen implement with a round handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9906" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T08:52:02.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-26T23:10:51.357" Score="5" ViewCount="16728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm creating simple alphabet letters using normal household 2-part resin. It seems to be taking forever and a day to cure. I know things such as lamps and turning up the heating can accelerate curing time, but I wondered (because I saw it on a YouTube video, but no explanation), if I could use a UV light to speed up the curing time? Would it work? I'm helping my daughter but we're both completely new to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9918" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-11-27T01:30:01.530" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T21:31:05.017" Title="Curing non-UV epoxy resin with a UV light?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8714" CreationDate="2020-11-27T01:22:21.420" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt; UV light won't affect the cure of non-UV resin.  Strong UV may even discolor or degrade some types of non-UV resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longer Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV-curing resin works on a different mechanism.  A one-part resin is stable until UV of a particular wavelength breaks down a component in the resin and causes it to cure.  Any portion of the resin that doesn't receive a sufficient amount of that UV remains uncured.  You need intense exposure to that wavelength, and it doesn't penetrate the resin well (so for thick castings, you need either extremely long exposure or building up and curing in thin layers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-UV resin combines chemicals in separate resin and hardener to trigger a chemical reaction.  Once the reaction has started, heat will accelerate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some epoxy systems use a small amount of catalyst as the hardener to trigger the reaction.  A catalyst doesn't react chemically.  It's mere presence triggers the reaction.  So you don't need much catalyst, and the exact proportion isn't too critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other epoxy systems, like what you used, cure by reacting the resin and hardener with each other.  They're generally designed to require equal amounts, or some other fixed ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-UV resins generally harden in a matter of minutes to hours, although total curing for full strength may take up to days.  If you mixed the epoxy and it's still sticky or soft after many hours, or say the next day, it will never cure.  You may be able to harden or clean the surface, but there's no way to affect the resin on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failure of two-part epoxy to properly harden is almost always caused by one of three problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inaccurate ratio.&lt;/strong&gt;  Both the resin and hardener are syrupy, and that consistency changes only through reacting the two parts.  If the ratio is inaccurate, the result will contain unreacted syrup of either the resin or hardener.  That will be mixed throughout and will never harden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some epoxies are designed to be measured by volume and some by weight.  Verify that you're basing your ratio on the correct type of measurement for the product you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inadequate mixing.&lt;/strong&gt;  Even if you start with an accurate ratio, if you don't thoroughly mix the two parts, you're left with a similar situation.  There will be unreacted syrup of both the resin and hardener throughout the result.  They will be isolated by the portion that does cure, and there's no way to get them to mix and react.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old or deteriorated product.&lt;/strong&gt;  Most epoxy systems have a long shelf life.  However, the components can eventually degrade through age or exposure to extreme temperatures.  If you discover decade-old product that's been lost in your garage and decide to put it to use, it would be worth testing a small amount first to verify that it will properly cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a fourth potential cause of curing problems that's not really the fault of the epoxy.  People often experiment with mixing in various other things as colorants or appearance modifiers, thinners, or to change the physical properties of the cured resin.  Some kinds of additives are incompatible with the epoxy or can interfere with the curing, especially if they're more than a small percentage of the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where to go from here&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick your castings in a hot but not super-hot place for a day (not so hot that you can't comfortably touch it or that would damage the molds).  Whatever is going to harden will harden.  Then if they're still sticky, trash them and try again.  If you're using re-usable molds, you may be able to clean them out, but don't reuse them if you can't get them thoroughly clean.  Any unreacted resin or hardener left in the mold will create the same problem when you pour in properly mixed epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-16T21:31:05.017" LastActivityDate="2020-12-16T21:31:05.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2020-11-27T09:56:40.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If instead you choose the &lt;a href=&quot;https://uk.yeti.com/products/rambler-10-oz-mug?variant=30994057166928&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stainless steel finish&lt;/a&gt; mug you'll know what the surface is, and be able to choose a paint.  The others may well be powder-coated (and baked) rather than enamelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With stainless I'd use paints intended for exterior metals, bought more as building supplies than craft supplies.  Unfortunately tins will be rather large, and colours limited. I would plan the design so food/lips don't touch the paint.  Another option is car touch-up paints.  They often have an integral brush, but a bad one, and they don't apply very evenly even with a better brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these paints might work on the coating, but may chip rather easily.  The problem is you can't really check, unless you want to make a prototype for yourself and treat it rather roughly.  But that's also true on my commercially-produced enamel mugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2020-11-27T09:56:40.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8718" CreationDate="2020-11-27T18:35:14.563" Score="4" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a silicone mold that I want to use for a concrete piece. I want to add a piece of wood to that mold, which will leave a negative space in the concrete. Later, I will fill that with resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is CA glue the best practice to stabilize the wood piece in the silicone mold? Or is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want to be able to remove the wood from the mold if I decide not to use it, without damaging the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9929" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T11:19:16.803" Title="How to properly glue wood to a silicone mold to later fill with another material?" Tags="|wood|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8717" CreationDate="2020-11-27T21:45:45.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Silicone works well as a mold material because virtually nothing adheres to silicone other than silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CA glue may not be a good choice, as it certainly will not adhere, but also may damage the surface of the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best option is to attach the wood to an outside jig or bracket of some sort, which has reference points to the mold that are not adhesive dependent. For example, if you can encase the mold in a box of plywood and drill holes in the plywood for attachment, the insert with an extension arm would drop into the mold in the correct position once the holes on the outside align with the arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without drawings of the mold and insert, I can't generate a mock-up drawing. Words will have to suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2020-11-27T21:45:45.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8717" CreationDate="2020-11-28T11:19:16.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a set of magnets (I think 4 but more may be needed) and drill holes in the wood on the side it sits against the mold and insert (glue in) the magnets.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When you get ready to poor your concrete you place your wood and add the magnets on the outside of the mold, which should keep your wood in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger the piece of wood, the more magnets you need due to the tendency of silicone to stretch, and it have to be strong magnets so it gets a strong bonding even through the extra layer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Using magnets you do not need to glue to your mold and should not damage it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T11:19:16.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2342" CreationDate="2020-11-28T21:08:10.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use white chalk writer brand Craft decor from the Dollar Tree to draw my sketch then after im done scratching i dab away the white marks with water...if white marks remain i use a clear acrylic sealer and it works out great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9932" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T21:08:10.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8742" CreationDate="2020-11-29T02:02:41.043" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;As seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.clealala.fr/REAL-LOVE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this piece&lt;/a&gt;, the thread goes thru the plexiglass (not sure if it is plexiglass) at the beginning and at the end of the word. But I don't see how the thread is being fixed onto the plexiglass for each letter in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GioEF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GioEF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is each letter being &amp;quot;glued&amp;quot; to the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9933" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-27T18:38:30.593" LastActivityDate="2022-04-27T18:38:30.593" Title="How is the string attached to this clear piece of plastic?" Tags="|sewing|embroidery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8721" CreationDate="2020-11-29T02:46:43.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've noted, the thread passes through holes in the plastic sheet. The process appears to mimic the mechanics of a sewing machine. A loop is pushed through the hole to the underside. Another thread is passed through the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking up &amp;quot;hand stitching awl&amp;quot; presents a method likely to be used in the photo collection. This method uses a single thread, while a sewing machine uses a second thread in a bobbin located under the machine arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this project, the loop is pushed to the underside of the sheet. The awl is removed and placed in the next hole. The new loop is then passed into the previous loop and tensioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new loop becomes the previous loop for the next hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YWFVq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YWFVq.png&quot; alt=&quot;stitching image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the above image, it appears that the underside thread is pulled mostly to the top. The underside thread is not visible on the underside, but it has to be there and may be the angle of the photograph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/A7r_fTFEA7I?t=49&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; shows one method of connecting the loops, although there may be other methods possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2020-11-30T10:12:24.360" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T10:12:24.360" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8687" CreationDate="2020-11-29T22:44:00.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weaving yarns are described by two numbers separated by a slash, eg 2/5, 3/10, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The smaller number is the number of plies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The larger number represents the size of each ply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a 2/5 yarn has 2 strands of size 5 thread. A 3/10 yarn has 3 strands of size 10 thread. Different sources are inconsistent about which number comes first. Usually the smaller number is the number of plies and the larger number is the size number, but for very fat yarns the size number can be larger than the number of plies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each fiber type has a different scale for the size numbers, so you have to look at a table of wool yarn sizes. This table from &lt;a href=&quot;https://woolery.com/yarn-weights-helpful-explanation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woolery.com&lt;/a&gt; has the smallest wool weaving yarn sizes I could find listed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Material | Weight | yds./lb. | m/kg   | SETT &#xA;Wool     | 20/2   | 5,600    | 11,289 | 20-30 &#xA;Wool     | 18/2   | 5,040    | 10,160 | 20-30 &#xA;Wool     | 8/2    | 2,240    | 4,516  | 12-16 &#xA;Wool     | 8/3    | 1,490    | 3,004  | 10-15 &#xA;Wool     | 6/2    | 1,600    | 3,225  | 8-16 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, your desired sett of 44 EPI is tighter than the smallest yarn on this chart. I couldn't find a chart that goes any smaller than this, but I know that wool yarns smaller than that do exist. So you know you want a 2-ply wool yarn smaller than 20/2 or 2/20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you purchase weaving yarn, sometimes they don't tell you the yarn size. Instead, all they tell you is yards per pound. So it would be useful to know how many yards per pound your desired yarn will have. It will have about twice as many yards per pound as a wool yarn with a sett of 22 EPI. So, probably around 10,000 yards per pound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yarn you want is much smaller than what is usually sold for home weavers. Yarns this small are more common in commercial weaving. So, you may want to shop for mill ends, which are yarns leftover from commercial weaving. Suppliers that sell mill ends may also have regular product lines that meet your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically with mill ends, once a yarn is sold out it's gone for good. So be sure to buy enough for your project. Here are a few sources of mill end weaving yarns. Some of these I already knew about, but I found others by googling &amp;quot;weaving yarn mill ends.&amp;quot; You might also have success with terms like &amp;quot;remnants&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;production excess.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://colourmart.com/yarns/view/AND_*_wool_*_in_stock.*.rank.*.show_all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Colourmart.com&lt;/a&gt; - At the moment they have &lt;a href=&quot;https://colourmart.com/yarns/view/2-42NM_cobweb_wt_wool,_zi_48_3_for_2_offer!_s_yarn/0/0/0/in_stock.*.asc_hue.*.show_all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a 2/42 wool yarn&lt;/a&gt; with 10,320 yards per pound. (They don't provide yard per pound measurements, but they do tell you how many ounces and yards each cone of yarn is, so you can calculate yards per pound yourself.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://oldmillyarn.info/shop/ols/categories/wool--wool-blend-yarns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oldmillyarn.com&lt;/a&gt; has a more limited selection, but they do show the yards per pound right on the search page. At the moment they have some in the 12,000+ YPP range, and some in the 7,000-8000 range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yarn.com/categories/mill-end-weaving-yarns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WEBS&lt;/a&gt; is usually a good source of mill end yarns, but they don't have any at the moment. Probably something to do with COVID and supply chains. In their regular weaving yarn section they have a 40/2 linen, but no wool yarn even close to as small as you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If you are making a garment or something you want to be soft enough to touch skin, be sure the wool you purchase is garment-quality wool, not rug-quality. If the product description doesn't specify, contact the seller before buying. Rug-quality wool (often just called rug wool or carpet wool) is very scratchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a hard time finding wool yarn for your purpose, consider looking at other fiber types. The narrower sizes of yarn are more commonly available in silk, linen, tencel, cotton and rayon than in wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T22:44:00.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8721" CreationDate="2020-11-30T18:21:31.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be done using different embroidery techniques, just using a sturdy transparent sheet instead of fabric as the carrier medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stitching looks a lot like chain stitch, which can be easily achieved with a simple crochet hook using the traditional Indian Aari technique. See a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/UTRvrNgcxgk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video with simple instructions here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When embroidering fabric, you can simply push the hook through the fabric. In this case I suggest punching the holes through the sheet before embroidering, otherwise you might bend the sheet. A thick needle or awl heated over a candle should suffice to poke neat holes. Make sure you cover your working area with something disposable like old newspaper to avoid damage to your table top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="9933" LastEditDate="2020-11-30T18:25:18.867" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T18:25:18.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8731" CreationDate="2020-11-30T21:34:31.913" Score="4" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a hole in a jacket that I can pass the wires of some electronics through (it’s a US Marine parade jacket I got an op-shop in the UK.) But the jacket is lined—so simply sewing a buttonhole or punching a grommet right through would connect the lining to the outside material of the jacket. I imagine this would pull at the hole and eventually tear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far as I can see it’s a permanent lining. The wires do have a plug on the end of them, it’s a JST connector similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JST_connector#/media/File:JST_RCY.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. It would fit through a standard button hole, or maybe a 12mm diameter round metal grommet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a reasonable fear? If so, what else could I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9944" LastEditorUserId="9944" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T20:18:47.910" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T20:18:47.910" Title="How do I make a finished hole through a lined jacket?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2020-12-01T16:51:49.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally &lt;em&gt;laser-printed&lt;/em&gt; (on a fairly decent modern laser printer) a PDF much smaller than I mean to.  This was on normal office paper, and those are mm tick marks on the ruler.  Unlike inkjet it doesn't bleed, but it's clearly resolution-limited, and under the microscope I can see the toner follows the tooth of the paper a bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only worked for black.  I didn't have coloured text as small, but the larger blue I did have was a fairly clear cyan with scattered dots of magenta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VIjRy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VIjRym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Very small laser print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (click for higher resolution)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-12-01T19:26:17.623" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T19:26:17.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-01T18:39:21.260" Score="7" ViewCount="2581" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you block acrylic yarn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just finished a beautiful Celtic Cable neck warmer with Lion Brand Heartland Tweed yarn, which is acrylic, and I want to make some for my friends for the holidays, but the only yarn I have is acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve tried looking at various sources at how to do it, and they’re all telling me different things. Some sources tell me to steam block it, because that’s the only permanent way, while others say steam blocking is dangerous due to “killing” the yarn, and that wet or spray blocking is permanent for acrylic as well. Still other sources are telling me to blow dry it with a hair dryer or that you don’t need to block scarves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the truth? How do you block acrylic yarn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9588" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T22:19:44.260" Title="Blocking Acrylic Yarn" Tags="|fabric|knitting|crocheting|yarn|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8728" CreationDate="2020-12-01T22:05:06.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't done a ton of blocking, but since I can't wear wool I've done mostly acrylic when I do have something to block. It's true that you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; not need to block it, but that's not a general rule for all scarves. If the corners are curling or there are slight width changes along the length, I would try to block that smooth. The pattern may also say something specific about what you should be doing to it when you block it (say, in terms of dimensions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think any blocking is truly permanent, especially with acrylic. But you can get it to look a lot nicer with water and warmth. I've done it in two ways: steam from a hovering iron, and sprayed water warmed with a hair dryer and left to air dry. Both have worked pretty well and not injured the yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both methods, start by pinning your piece to something flat. I generally use my ironing board; I think larger pieces can be done on a bed if you don't have a blocking-specific surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first method, use your iron's steam-burst button with the plate of the iron about an inch away from the piece. You can get closer, but don't touch the yarn with the iron. I use the cotton setting because that's what my iron is always set to anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second method, spray the piece with water. You want it wet through but not soggy. Use a hairdryer to warm it all up (and slightly dry it), and then let it air dry. You could also use the hairdryer to completely dry it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, wait until the piece is both cool and dry before removing it from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5880" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T22:05:06.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8728" CreationDate="2020-12-01T22:19:44.260" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike natural fibers which can be blocked by simply shaping the item while wet, blocking acrylic requires heat. Many people try to wet-block acrylic the same way they would do wool, and they aren't happy with the results so they conclude (incorrectly) that there's no point in blocking acrylic. That's not true. There's simply very little point in &lt;em&gt;wet&lt;/em&gt; blocking acrylic. The simplest heat-blocking method is to run the item through a washer and dryer. That's the easiest way, so I recommend trying that first. It should even out any slightly wonky stitches. If you're happy with the appearance at this stage, no further effort is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more intense way is steam blocking. If done correctly, blocking improves the appearance of a knitted item. It smooths out minor irregularities in stitch size and overall makes the item look more polished and professionally produced. It can also prevent edges from curling. Here's how:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lay the knitted item out flat. Stretch, smooth and smoosh it until it's the shape you want and the stitches are nice and even. If it won't hold its shape on its own, use pins and/or blocking wires to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a steam iron to steam it. Hover over the fabric with the iron, not touching it. As you go, pat the fabric gently to smooth it out (in areas where it wasn't already sitting smoothly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once you're done, the blocking is permanent. Don't be scared off by the word &amp;quot;permanent;&amp;quot; it's actually a good thing because it means the gift is low-maintenance. Your gift recipients can toss it in the washer and dryer without needing to block it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wash your item before steam-blocking it. A knitted item usually needs to be washed after knitting, because your hands aren't always &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; clean when you knit (and even when they are they still have natural oils on them). If you steam block a dirty item, you can end up setting oils and stains into the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Knit a swatch from the same yarn (if you made a gauge swatch, just use that). Practice steam blocking the swatch until you get the hang of what distance to hold the iron from the swatch, and for how long to steam it. Actually try to over-block part of your swatch to the point of &amp;quot;killing&amp;quot; it - that way you know what it actually takes to kill acrylic, and you can avoid doing that. You'll find that it takes a lot more heat than you would expect to kill acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Irons often have some build-up of calcium salts in their steam holes, especially if you left water in it the last time you used it. The build-up will leave annoying little white crumbly bits on your beautiful knitted item. Run the hot iron over a towel to remove some of the crumbly bits before using the iron for blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Killing&amp;quot; acrylic is actually an intentional technique that is done on purpose sometimes. Usually for lace. It apparently gives the fabric a lovely drape, but removes all the elasticity. It's probably not appropriate for your cabled scarf, but keep it in mind if you decide to make lace someday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ravelry.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ravelry&lt;/a&gt; has some very helpful discussion groups about working with acrylic yarns, eg &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/i-dont-care-who-knowsi-love-acrylic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;I don't care who knows...I love acrylic!&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you love working with acrylic, consider investing in a steamer. They work better than a steam iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T22:19:44.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8725" CreationDate="2020-12-01T22:25:24.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expanding my comment into an answer upon further consideration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right to be concerned about punching through both outer and lining material and joining them with a grommet. The lining is intended to be able to shift as you move separately from the outer jacket, and the grommet would add a small point of stress. I would also worry about the lining fraying out around the grommet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I would unpick and resew one of the seams of the lining. Jackets with linings attached at top and bottom are often constructed by leaving the back center lining seam unsewn until the end. The jacket is turned right-side-out through that opening after being sewn to the lining inside-out, and then the lining is topstitched closed (hard to find a photo! See the last image in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myfabricrelish.com/2014/10/trick-or-treat-bags-tutorial.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bag tutorial&lt;/a&gt;). If that is your jacket's situation, you'll have a natural way to get inside the lining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, I would still go in via unpicking a seam. A seam ripper / quick unpick is easiest, but you can be careful with some pointy scissors or a new razor blade as well. Avoid stabbing through or cutting the fabric itself (of course!). If you're getting in through a seam that is not topstitched (that is, all stitching is invisible from the outside) is helps a lot to pull the fabric on each side taut away from the seam, to whatever extent possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, to sew it back up, I would use matching or slightly-darker thread and a small, close &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.holiday-crafts-and-creations.com/whip-stitch.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;whipstitch&lt;/a&gt;. You can hide the ending thread tail between the jacket and lining by stitching down right next to your knot, into the space between the lining and jacket, and then coming back out a little ways away. Trim your thread and let it disappear inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5880" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T22:25:24.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8611" CreationDate="2020-12-02T11:41:36.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Uni-ball rollerball inks seem to now be permanent (vs. water, UV, fading).  Pentel has permanent ink too.  Most manufacturers make this a clear selling point if you search 'permanent rollerball ink'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9948" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T11:41:36.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-11-30T09:13:49.207" Score="5" ViewCount="3835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is the right forum but seems more relevant to my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a rear-projected screen in a form of a large table (3m x 2m) with frosted/diffused acrylic or polycarbonate sheets as a tabletop. The ultra-short throw projector below the tabletop will project an image on the sheet. The table will be holding max 20-30kg equally distributed weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best options to secure the tabletop sheet and prevent it from bending? Any special kind of mounting tools or screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't have solid structures supporting the sheet from below as it would cast shadows from the projector.&#xA;Is getting a very thick sheet the only option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Arturs Vancans" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-02T16:44:23.507" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T17:29:14.907" Title="How to prevent acrylic or polycarbonate sheets from bending?" Tags="|material-selection|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2020-11-30T12:36:31.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend putting a solid wood edging around your table top. (Of course, you could use metal if you have the fabrication skills or willingness to outsource.) You want a dado for it to slip into to provide not just support from below, but also support on top to prevent the edges from bowing up from the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I'd suggest a &lt;em&gt;thick&lt;/em&gt; piece. The thicker it is, the less it's going to bend. A thicker piece may impact light transmission and clarity, so you may have to make a compromise. You also have to consider that a piece of acrylic that is &lt;em&gt;2 x 3 meters&lt;/em&gt; (~ &lt;em&gt;6 x 9 feet&lt;/em&gt; for those on this side of the pond) will do some bending on its own if it's not thick enough! That's a &lt;em&gt;heavy&lt;/em&gt; piece of plastic and will weigh a fair bit on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, contact the manufacturer to ask them for specs on the product you're looking to purchase. If anyone knows how much weight it can support, they will. They'll probably have something that will tell you how much weight per meter of span it can safely take before bending. They'll probably also have data on light transmission at each thickness so you can factor that in, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thought for you - this may not be the best time to design something out of acrylic. With all the stupid fear about the pandemic, stores here in the US are wrapping all the cashier stations in it as a barrier so it's in short supply and prices have skyrocketed. As expensive as this piece is going to be, it'll be even more so now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="FreeMan" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T13:10:46.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2020-11-30T15:15:00.183" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consider tempered glass instead.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While using glass brings a real fear of breakage, thick glass actually doesn't break so easily, and it is quite strong. 2m x 3m is on the large size. Typical glass table tops that I remember seeing are more in the (at most) 1m x 2m size. I did a quick search and found a local (to me) vendor - local is important because picking it up yourself or getting a local truck delivery will be a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; cheaper than sending long distance - where this size is in the $1,000 range. From the same vendor, a table top 1/4 the size is ~ 1/8 the cost and 1/4&amp;quot; thick instead of 3/8&amp;quot; thick. So clearly this is a viable option, but whether it is practical or not will depend on your budget and other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass also tends to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; get scratched up as easily as most plastic, which may be a big advantage for a display medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T15:15:00.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2020-11-30T18:49:45.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option would be air pressure under the sheet supporting its weight, air won't block the light from your projector,  this would reqiuire enclosing some of the space under the table and providing a window for the projector to shine through.  if there's any leaks the air will need replenishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jasen" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T18:49:45.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2020-11-30T20:03:12.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try gluing thick or vertical pieces of acrylic to the edges of your sheet to stiffen it, with solvent-based glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Adam Grant" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T20:03:12.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2020-11-30T23:53:44.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add a mesh/grid of thin tensioned horizontal wires below the sheet - your frame will need to be strong enough to resist the tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like guitar wire, or perhaps clear fishing line will have minimal impact on the image projected - though do a test before committing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8130" OwnerDisplayName="Criggie" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T23:53:44.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2020-12-01T01:05:26.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a layered option. Frosted acrylic or polycarbonate tends to be expensive, so you can get a thin sheet of that, maybe 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot;, then get a clear support piece the same size but thicker as your base. You don't need to glue them together, or anything, just lay the frosted piece over the clear. In fact, I've done a fair bit of gluing/cementing plastics together on their large faces. It's really difficult to avoid bubbles even with small faces of less than 6&amp;quot;, especially when using a solvent based cement, since you only have a short time to remove the bubbles, so I'd suggest against gluing them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note, acrylic will scratch more easily than polycarb, so I'd suggest getting the top piece as polycarb, even if you use acrylic as the support material. Heck, you could use a piece of glass as support, but then you still risk breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also want to make sure you are supporting the full perimeter of the frame. Plastics tend to be less rigid than glass, but that's also what helps prevent plastics from breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With plastics, you can also drill holes through the sheets and use screws or bolts to try to put tension into the sheet to help prevent sag by attempting to stretch the sheet. That's not easy, and I haven't tried it, and doing it too much could cause the holes to crack. It could also cause stress interference in the sheet or cause the sheet to warp. It might not be worth this approach, now that I think about it. But having the sheets held down tightly and more than just sitting there will help prevent sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm from the US, so getting a piece of acrylic or polycarb larger than 4'x8' (1.2192m x 2.4384m) would be a special order. I'm assuming you already have a supplier that can go that large? If you haven't, I found at least one by searching &amp;quot;acrylic sheet sizes uk&amp;quot;, or whatever country you are from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" OwnerDisplayName="computercarguy" LastActivityDate="2020-12-01T01:05:26.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8733" CreationDate="2020-12-02T17:29:14.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use something thick and rigid enough to not noticeably sag (like glass or thick plastic).  But you can also accomplish it with relatively thin material.  The material will bend but needs to be stiff so as to not sag in random places.  Giving it an intentional slight curve in one direction will prevent it from bending in the other direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the frame just slightly narrower than the narrow dimension of the plastic sheet (making it adjustable will allow experimentation to optimize it).  Give the sheet an ever-so-slight upward arch across the short dimension.  On a surface that size, the arch will barely be noticeable and won't distort what's projected onto it.  The weight of the sheet will try to flatten the arch, but if the long edges are constrained so they have no place to go, it will maintain a close to imperceptible upward arch.  You can reinforce the shape by supporting the sheet with slightly curved or stepped sides on the short ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T17:29:14.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2020-12-02T19:07:14.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tested how permanent it is, but I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hydrocreations.com/blogs/news/what-is-hydro-dipping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydro-dipped&lt;/a&gt; a variety of cups, including some stainless steel cups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did, after taping off the sections I wanted to protect, is to spray on some primer geared for metals. Once the primer was dry, I dipped the cups (I used spray paint floated on water), took off the mask tape, and waited for them to dry. Then I retaped the cups so there was a small amount of non-painted surface visible and sprayed on a clear coat. I wanted to make sure that the edge of the paint was protected and there wasn't going to be a large cliff of paint that could catch when using or washing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I haven't noticed much chipping, even on the glass cups I did, although I haven't actually used them. I have them wrapped for shipping, if I sell them or send them as gifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a laser cutter to etch in a design. Some lasers allow for etching directly on the stainless, but others need a material that's similar to powder coating once hit with the laser. The laser can also burn off the existing paint very accurately, if you don't use too strong of a setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples that I could easily find. I'm not advocating brand or retailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B003ORSXR8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/BASF-Turf-Mark-Blue/dp/B003ORSXR8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07D7JM5J2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/CerMark-LMM-14-Marking-Technology-Aerosol/dp/B07D7JM5J2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07MHQRWGN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Laser-Marking-Brilliance-Inks-BLI101MBPWD50/dp/B07MHQRWGN&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastEditorUserId="6228" LastEditDate="2020-12-02T19:15:21.020" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T19:15:21.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8721" CreationDate="2020-12-03T00:32:12.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is done with a tambour needle.  You can buy  them  at Amazon or craft stores.  You  punch  a hole and  do a chain stitch as you embroider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9952" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T05:16:43.613" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T05:16:43.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3377" CreationDate="2020-12-03T01:34:39.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Making a piece out of ceramics, you should use plaster for the mold as it draws out the moisture from the clay slip, and you will not  need to  wait a  long  time to get the thickness of your  clay.  If you use a rubber mold, the moisture has to leave the clay through the  air, which is very slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raku is a way to fire the clay, so unless you want a hardened piece out of the clay, I would not fire it raku style or otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wanting to make a bronze piece, why use the ceramic as part? You can make the finished piece in several parts of bronze or clay.  The pieces  can  be  combined  afterward; molded clay glued with slip, or welding or soldering the bronze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way would be a breakable mold for the entire piece, where you break the complete work out of the mold in one piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9952" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T06:20:10.857" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T06:20:10.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8583" CreationDate="2020-12-03T01:55:25.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the glaze and the lack of annealing the piece. In lampworking, glass  needs to be annealed to decrease any stress in the glass so it will not crack.  Ceramics that are glazed are glass covering the ceramics, so it also  needs to be annealed, with a slow cooling of the piece when fired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would also help if you find out the COE of the glaze if you can so you can hold the temperature of the kiln at the best temperature to reduce the stress of the glaze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally do not know what that would  be.  Possibly, just slowing down the firing process; reducing the temperature very slowly to say twice what  you did before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9952" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-03T06:06:43.047" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T06:06:43.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2020-12-03T16:22:49.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;most cups  are coated  with an epoxy resin food safe than you can  paint  before  coating  or  use a vinyl on the cup  and than  100  safe and  will last oh and  than you need  a  turner / spinner  to  keep the resin  even when coating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9952" LastActivityDate="2020-12-03T16:22:49.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-03T19:28:30.317" Score="2" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Figma 6 inch scale figure and unfortunately, I broke off a peg from the double ball shoulder joint. The broken peg was stuck in the hole connecting the arm so I used a knife to jam it out. As a way of fixing the joint, I was hoping to use a screw and essentially screw it into the hole while using the head of the screw as a way to connect the arm to the double ball joint. I was thinking of applying a Loctite superglue at the head and fuse it to the area on the joint where the peg broke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this method of fixing my figure okay, so should I be causing more damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative method, I could just use the broken peg that I jammed out of the figure's arm and superglue it to the ball joint but I don't know if the peg will stay in place as the surface of the peg is uneven due to the jamming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9956" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T13:53:47.003" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T23:54:31.223" Title="Fixing double-ball joint on a 6'' scale action figure" Tags="|adhesives|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8754" CreationDate="2020-12-04T15:47:43.803" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a paper craft artist. My work usually involves printing the template on A4 colored card stock paper and then cutting and scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know whether there are any machines for cutting and scoring on colored card stock paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9703" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-13T19:34:07.537" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T19:34:07.537" Title="Are there machines to cut and score on card stock?" Tags="|papercutting|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8725" CreationDate="2020-12-04T20:03:05.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a place in your jacket where there is no lining, like just next to the zipper.&#xA;Make your hole where the fabric of the outside is also used on the inside, mostly with some more stitching between it and where the lining fabric starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your lining comes all the way to the zip and the collar, you can use a place where the lining is very close to the zip or collar, so there is as little stretch and movement as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go for a button hole rather than a grommet, as the stitching gives strength while a grommet is often not as strong. (Some are but not sure what kind you would have.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2020-12-04T20:16:59.827" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T20:16:59.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8752" CreationDate="2020-12-04T21:24:57.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As many have described in the comments, there are a variety of computer-guided cutting machines, ranging from the Cricut and Silhouette level machines which are designed for home use, to more serious home-manufacturing devices like the silver bullet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These devices differ from each other in terms of price, the size of media they can work with and the variety of bits which are available for them.  They all share a very significant failing in the way that they secure the media to the cutting bed for the cutting/scoring process.  Each of them without exception (in my experience) use a sticky plastic mat to hold the media which is to be cut or scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That mat insures that the machine can maintain a firm grip on the media so that accurate registration can be maintained during the process.  But when dealing with certain media, for example card stock paper, that sticky plastic mat often does more harm than good.  The problem is that the adhesive on the mat is often stronger than whatever is holding the paper layers together.  Small cut pieces often tear and shred into wafers when after cutting, you attempt to remove them from the mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very frustrating to have a cut performed perfectly by one of these brilliant machines and then to unavoidably destroy the result while trying to release it from the adhesive mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are low-adhesion mats available for some of these machines, but I have yet to find one which provides both enough holding power to prevent slippage during cutting/scoring and enough ease of release afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-13T19:33:56.873" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T19:33:56.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8227" CreationDate="2020-12-04T22:52:32.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use beach glass and stones in crafts, the frosted look is actually prized, so polishing them is usually not done. You can buy glass beads in any size or color you want quite cheaply, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you really want you beach stones/glass smooth and shiny, tumbling is probably your best bet and certainly easiest if you are going to be doing a lot of it. For single larger pieces, the other answers describing how to work the stone using rotary tools, etc. would be a better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy a tumbling machine and tumbling media or make your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all operate on similar principles. You clean your rocks/glass pieces and then put them into a barrel with water and coarse tumbling medium and set it turning. Depending on the hardness of the rocks (which you can test before starting), you keep it going for anything from a day to a week, checking daily. Once the rough edges are gone and the rocks start getting nice and rounded, you remove and wash them, remove the slurry and wash the barrel thoroughly, then repeat with a finer grain of tumbling medium. Keep repeating with finer and finer media until the surface is polished/shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of how-to videos on YouTube  and written tutorials all over the internet explaining how to choose and use a tumbling machine or how to make your own. To start with, you can look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://rocktumbler.com/tips/rock-tumbler-instructions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RockTumbler&lt;/a&gt; or a for a DIY option &lt;a href=&quot;https://theactivefamily.org/diy-rock-tumbler/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Active Family&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your rocks/glass is tumbled to your satisfaction, you can give individual pieces a final polish by hand with jeweller's rouge (or 3 micron diamond polishing paste) if you want, then use a fine diamond drill bit to drill a hole through each one (or the other way round).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work with the piece you're drilling clamped firmly and don't press too hard otherwise you may get melting of the glass or splintering/cracking of the rock. Keep the contact surface under water while drilling to avoid dust getting into your eyes and respiratory system and wear the right protective equipment (gloves, safety goggles and dust mask).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't pour the slurry/mud from tumbling and drilling down the drain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using something like beach sand as medium, rather mix it into your garden soil. If you are using commercial products or adding plastic beads or other plastics as cushioning, rather pour the slurry into a bucket as discussed in the comment by &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/users/319/chris-h&quot;&gt;Chris H&lt;/a&gt; below and do your washing (of the stones and equipment) over a bucket as well.  Once the solids have settled out, the water can be poured off and the solids discarded with your non-recyclable garbage. Otherwise you'll end up clogging drains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastEditorUserId="9490" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T18:31:13.563" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T18:31:13.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="61" CreationDate="2020-12-05T02:45:50.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use resin to  encase it  and  help it from falling apart.  Yes it  is an epoxy a two part to  mix so it hardens  but the resin Not  glue  will not yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9952" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T02:45:50.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8711" CreationDate="2020-12-05T11:02:20.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Propaganda 'style'&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below some specifics can be found.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Without more input it is hard to pinpoint what exactly attracts you in the image, so I've made a quick analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Characteristic features are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;emphasized and clean outlines;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(comic art) realism;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;arched shading;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a colour palette limited to five colours (or slightly differentiated hues of two colours), covering large areas;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a central composition with diagonals;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a single person inviting the observer to take action/participate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first three properties most clearly resemble a &lt;em&gt;style&lt;/em&gt;, and are indicative of a specific type of &lt;strong&gt;western comic book style&lt;/strong&gt; (the superhero comic book genre for example, as typified by (golden, silver, and bronze age) Marvel and DC comics - see Image 1).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(But see also the note two paragraphs below.)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fourth property is indicative of the &lt;em&gt;technique&lt;/em&gt; used or emulated, and brings to mind &lt;strong&gt;certain printing techniques&lt;/strong&gt; like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;screen printing&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stencil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;stenciling&lt;/a&gt; (see Image 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last two characteristics are exemplary for (most typically World War-era) &lt;strong&gt;propaganda artwork&lt;/strong&gt; (see Image 3), which is a type of &lt;em&gt;communication&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The second of these especially reminds me of the iconic Uncle Sam poster (Image 4).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Note that many examples of this kind of design naturally have line art that is similar to that used in comic book art, so 'comic book style' is partially redundant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDIlcm.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDIlcm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gE2shm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gE2shm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Images 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eo7nFm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eo7nFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJLD7m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJLD7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Images 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do feel the image you uploaded is &lt;em&gt;a somewhat ineffective mashup of several styles&lt;/em&gt; typical for this kind of communication (e.g. the HUD and electronic device might have been added to an &lt;a href=&quot;http://plakat-art.ru/d/648.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;original design&lt;/a&gt; and are too detailed in comparison to the rest - but the original is not very well-designed either, from an aesthetic and compositional point of view).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another great way to look for similar images&lt;/strong&gt; (without the need to figure out the proper terminology) is to upload the example to websites that allow for image searches. I find Yandex is a great option, since it seems to find the most images that are similar, instead of just identical.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://yandex.com/images/search?rpt=imagelike&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Favatars.mds.yandex.net%2Fget-images-cbir%2F4328881%2Flk1v5cufDtKjfgikdSeCLA5407%2Forig&amp;amp;cbir_id=4328881%2Flk1v5cufDtKjfgikdSeCLA5407&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; was generated after I uploaded your image, have a look!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;Image sources:  &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Image 1: Detail of &lt;a href=&quot;https://wallup.net/superman-comics-superhero-52/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://wallup.net/superman-comics-superhero-52/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Image 2: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-1950s-russia-russian-propaganda-poster-98006578.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-1950s-russia-russian-propaganda-poster-98006578.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Image 3: &lt;a href=&quot;https://obeygiant.com/obama-hope/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://obeygiant.com/obama-hope/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Image 4: &lt;a href=&quot;https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/uncle-sam-s-i-want-you-poster/photos&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/uncle-sam-s-i-want-you-poster/photos&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-06T21:30:08.990" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T21:30:08.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8761" CreationDate="2020-12-06T01:35:45.823" Score="4" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a amateur child artist trying to draw &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mywLPjoK1XU&amp;amp;t=350s&amp;amp;ab_channel=How2DrawAnimals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. At the end of the video, the artist uses his pencil to make fur-like textures. However, I want to do this with color. After doing the whole tutorial, drawing the fur and all, can I go over the fur texture with colored pencil to add more color? Will my drawing still look realistic, and not messy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9865" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-06T08:59:53.613" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T16:52:17.793" Title="Can I draw dog fur with pencil and then go over it with colored pencils?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|colored-pencils|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8760" CreationDate="2020-12-06T20:47:00.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly add color into a monotone image (like you would have with a graphite pencil drawing). You are correct that there is the risk making the drawing messy or muddy though, so use (workable) &lt;strong&gt;spray fix&lt;/strong&gt; to protect the base drawing before adding light shading with the colored pencils (or water color, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However using color when drawing in the style of the video, as well as in any added shading, will give you cleaner colors overall. So if you want the fur itself to have color it &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be best to work with colored pencils for the line work as well as any tone work you might add after the base drawing. Try using a few different colors when drawing the fur to add more realism; check out some close up photos of fur to get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general when doing works in color black becomes a very strong visual element compositionally. So if you do a black and white drawing first any colors you add later will be secondary to that base image. If you do a drawing (or painting) in color any black you use will really stand out. Finding the right balance between the two is the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2020-12-07T16:52:17.793" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T16:52:17.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8750" CreationDate="2020-12-07T23:54:31.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latter idea of fixing the broken peg sounds the most practical. Strengthen the connection by inserting something strong, like part of a paper clip or a toothpick, to bridge the two pieces. If there is enough material there so that you can tap (drill) a small opening for the wire that is, just sticking something in without making room for it may split the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the choice of glue is important. There may be something stronger than super glue for the bond and some plastics may even take damage from it. Maybe the manufacturer sells or recommends one, or search on here for adhesive questions, there have been a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-12-07T23:54:31.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8711" CreationDate="2020-12-08T00:24:13.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The style in the image in your post is based on the &lt;strong&gt;Soviet Constructivist&lt;/strong&gt; style of poster art. Yes, these designs were primarily made for propaganda purposes but there are many styles of art that have been used in propaganda. The severe angles, use of large block print, saturated colors and boarders, the proletariat as hero, etc. are all specific to Constructivist imagery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T00:24:13.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8766" CreationDate="2020-12-08T11:46:01.750" Score="10" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this protractor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aN8z2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aN8z2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be the same or similar as this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robinson.com.my/usr/product.aspx?pgid=4&amp;amp;id=99&amp;amp;grpid=29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robinson 5001# Stainless Steel Protractor&#xA;RBS-R-5001&lt;/a&gt; but there are no instructions there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with this protractor is that the 'origin' swivel point can't be accurately placed over the object you are trying to measure because you can't see where it is. For instance if you put it over a paper image of a triangle to measure an interior angle you can line up the tip of the protractor (small detent) but not the swivel point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I don't see how you could use this e.g. to measure the interior angle of a real object as you would with a bevel gauge. So it does seem intended to be used for flat measurements, I just can't see how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9979" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2022-07-03T16:53:31.473" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T16:53:31.473" Title="How to use a protractor if you can't see what you are measuring?" Tags="|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8765" CreationDate="2020-12-08T13:29:26.643" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The angle between the ruler part and the the semicircular part is the same as the angle indicated on the scale.  This is because the centreline of the ruler is parallel to its edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBVXA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBVXA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Parallels&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Parallel_transversal.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikimedia Commons&lt;/a&gt; user &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Krishnavedala&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Krishnavedala&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider line &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; to be the top edge of the ruler in the picture and line &lt;em&gt;b&lt;/em&gt; the centreline.  Line &lt;em&gt;t&lt;/em&gt;, the transversal, is the base of the semicircle.  The top right &lt;em&gt;θ&lt;/em&gt; where &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;t&lt;/em&gt; meet is the angle you want to measure.  The bottom left &lt;em&gt;θ&lt;/em&gt; is the angle the pointer makes with the semicircle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a useful protractor for setting an angle or measuring a physical object with some thickness. For work purely on paper I'd prefer the clear plastic sort, marking in pencil and then using a steel rule for cutting if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you want to measure the interior angle of the parallelogram shown in freehand blue in this picture (imagine it drawn on paper under the ruler).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VvQg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VvQg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OP's photo marked up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You align the protractor as shown, so the edges highlighted in thin red  run along the lines you're interested in.  Then the other angle in red is what you read off.  This is a copy of the first red angle, rotated and enlarged (hence thicker), but not distorted.  You can see that this runs through the pivot and point to the pointer, aligned with its groove.  NB: Somehow I've actually placed the lower red angle in slightly the wrong place, aligned with the base of the (slightly more than) semicircular part instead of the zero line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2022-03-09T13:27:07.787" LastActivityDate="2022-03-09T13:27:07.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8227" CreationDate="2020-12-09T02:04:21.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a diamond  drill  bit  but make sure you drill underwater  or you  could inhale  glass dust in your lungs.  A tumbler  will not  polish the glass  smooth and shiny . You would  need to fire polish with a  torch like a  hot head or some other  torch  for lampworking and  than you would need a way to heat the glass  before fire polishing  it of the glass will most likely pop and crack exploding  basically .  As  other  have said  beach glass is something most  love  that frosted  look of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9952" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T02:04:21.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8765" CreationDate="2020-12-09T20:45:10.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To place this protractor or any measuring tool at a difficult to see point use a stylus such as a pencil or an awl or the metal tip of a compass. Place the point of the stylus on the given point and slide the protractor's two beams against it so that it rests at their intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stylus is too thick you may need to angle it away from the protractor beam edges so that the side touching the beam aligns exactly with the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Chris H explains, the measured angle is the same even if the center point is offset from the origin since the available edge and the baseline of the tool's center point are parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2020-12-09T20:48:39.390" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T20:48:39.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8776" CreationDate="2020-12-10T23:18:50.890" Score="7" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a necklace made from concrete, but use a brass crimp tube for the chain hole. Is there anything chemically wrong with doing that? Will either the concrete or the brass corrode over time by mixing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9929" LastEditorUserId="9929" LastEditDate="2020-12-11T22:37:04.133" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T22:37:04.133" Title="Issues in mixing brass with concrete?" Tags="|jewelry|concrete|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8772" CreationDate="2020-12-11T02:49:30.337" Score="5" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please note:&lt;/strong&gt; this question is intended to give me some ideas so I can start formulating a surprise gift for my wife. The obvious answer here might be: &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Just ask her!&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; but that defeats the purpose of what I'm trying to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife has started a small sewing business this year, even going so far as to launch a site on Etsy and having some pretty formidable success with it! To support her I'd like to try and get her a decent &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;professional tailor start kit&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; for lack of a better term, and I'm not sure what would be included in such a custom kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She has a decent Kenmore sewing machine, a fabric cutting tool (looks like a pizza cutter) and a &amp;quot;self-healing mat&amp;quot; that she uses for cutting a measuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any tailoring/sewing masters out there help clue me in as to what a decent tooling starter set would look like for someone with a small online/Etsy business (she does roughly 20 orders a week or small items)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9867" LastEditorUserId="9867" LastEditDate="2020-12-11T03:18:52.863" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T14:31:46.330" Title="What important tools does a small tailoring outfit need?" Tags="|sewing|fabric|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8770" CreationDate="2020-12-11T07:18:58.237" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The equipment you listed is exactly what I would have suggested as a genral starter pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sewing machine is a no-brainer. The &amp;quot;pizza cutter&amp;quot; is called a &amp;quot;rotary cutter&amp;quot; and is favored by most people. The mat is a requirement to use the rotary cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything that could be useful to her after that depends on what she makes, but a few ideas include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pincushion wristband&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the name implies, it's a pincushion you can strap around your wrist like a watch. That way you have both hands free to manipulate the fabric but always have your pins nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pattern weights&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wife uses tailoring patterns for the objects she sews, she usually has to pin the pattern in place to cut the fabric. The pins damage the pattern and can warp delicate fabrics. Pattern weights are simply small, heavy objects that can hold the pattern in place without pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number and size of the weights depends on the size of the pattern. On a pattern piece for clothing I would spread 4 weights, on something small like a plushy maybe 1 weight is enough. For small patterns the weight must be small enough to fit entirely &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the pattern and not overlap with the outlines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pattern weights come in all shapes and sizes and you can make your own from heavy objects like washers, stones, metal bolts or other junk you find lying around. You can google around for various ideas on how to craft your own pattern weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thread clipper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VMDhs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VMDhs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These small tools are basically &amp;quot;just small scissors&amp;quot; intended to cut individual threads. They are very comfortable to use and - in contrast to regular scissors - you can hold them in your hand while hand sewing or stitching without being afraid of accidently cutting something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally love them and prefer them above regular small scissors for hand and machine sewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thread rack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oztmmm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oztmmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a lovely DIY project for you, but the result will only be useful if she needs lots of thread spools (mostly in different colors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thread rack allows you to order your thread spools and store them in a vertical manner, leaving more desk space for the important work. You can google around to find different models and instructions to build one yourself, and you can buy them, too. Make sure the size of the rack fits the size of thread spools your wife uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High quality pins&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she just started her business, she might not notice the difference yet, but cheap, low quality pins have the tendency to snag the fabric, either because they weren't manufactured cleanly or because the smoth outer coat corrodes over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long, lean pins tend to be more practical than shorter or thicker ones. They should have a pinhead that's big enough to be easiy seen but not so big as to get into your way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand sewing needles and thread conditioner&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she does some hand sewing, she needs hand sewing needles. I made the very unfortunate experience that those needle packs that are highly availyble in big super markets often have sharp points on their rear end, which hurts and can actually injure your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good quality needles should be very smooth and shiny. They will corode somewhat over time and get dull (not only the tip, but also the body surface), which is when they need to be replaced because they don't glide through the fabric anymore. Find the dullest (dark and least shiny) needles in your wifes pin cushion and you'll know the size she needs most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another supply only needed for hand sewing is beeswax or thread conditioner. It's mostly used when sewing with natural fibres and I only know it from historical costuming (hand sewing with linen thread). One small block of beeswax or pack of conditioner lasts an eternity, but it can be very bothersome to get a replacement if you lost it or actually used it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fabric clips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miXN3m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miXN3m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fabric clips&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an alternative to pins. They look a little like miniature clothepins and can hold layers of fabric together without damaging the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people prefer clips, others prefer regular pins. In my experience there will always be some situations where you must use a pin because you simply cannot attach a clip there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sewing machine bobbins&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might not be obvious at first glance and might not be useful at all if she always sews with the same color of thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every sewing machine needs 2 threads and the second thread must be wound up on a bobbin. If your wife has many different colors of thread and needs to change colors regularily, she also has to change the bobbin or (in the worst case) unwind a bobbin and fill it with a thread of a different color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stash of empty bobbins can help tremendously in that case. Unfortunately there is no one standardized size of bobbin, so you better take one of her existing bobbins and find a package of the same size and material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A decent working table&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this depends on what she usually makes. I &lt;strong&gt;hate&lt;/strong&gt; working on a surface that can't accomodate the entire pattern and still has some more room for excess fabric. If she makes small things, a regular desk can be more than enough, but if she tailors clothing, she needs something bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2020-12-11T14:31:46.330" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T14:31:46.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8770" CreationDate="2020-12-11T07:19:38.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like she already has a basic &amp;quot;starter kit&amp;quot; for sewing. So, instead of getting her a comprehensive kit, I would try to focus on one or two high-quality items that would save her time, or make her work easier in some way. Here are a few suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.singer.com/accessories/dress-forms&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;adjustable-size dress form&lt;/a&gt;. Make sure you get an adjustable one, because presumably her clients are not all the same size. The link I provided is for Singer, which is generally a good brand of sewing supplies although I haven't used their their dress forms. &lt;a href=&quot;https://lovesewing.com/best-adjustable-dress-forms-reviewed/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a blog&lt;/a&gt; where they reviewed different brands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlock&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;serger or overlocker&lt;/a&gt; - this is a machine that looks like a sewing machine, but instead of sewing a seam it trims and wraps the raw edge of fabric. It's a huge time saver compared to putting in a hem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A set of multiple &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_cutter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rotary fabric cutters&lt;/a&gt; in different sizes. This is the tool that looks like a pizza cutter that your wife already has, but she might appreciate having more than one. Or a new blade for the one she already has; they do get dull over time, and you don't even notice how dull your current blade is until you use a sharp one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cordless iron.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A set of thread in all the colors, so she doesn't have to buy new matching thread every time she starts a new project. Make sure it's good quality thread that flows smoothly and doesn't stick and get caught and make a giant snarl every 5 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An abundant supply of sewing machine needles. So many that she can switch needles whenever the old one gets dull without feeling at all guilty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A better table, chair, or lighting for her workspace. This works best if it solves a problem that your wife has mentioned to you. If you want to install something in a way that will make dust, that probably shouldn't be something you surprise her with, but if you do make sure the sewing machine is back inside its case and fully covered. Ditto for any fabric storage cabinets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More storage space. There is not, and never has been, enough space in the home of any sewer for all their fabric. I'm not just talking about buying her a new cabinet; I'm talking about clearing some junk out of somewhere in your home and saying, this space is now yours. And maybe put in a new cabinet or some shelves. This is the least expensive suggestion, but the most work for you. As an added bonus, when your wife sees you working on this, tell her you're clearing out the space for one of your hobbies (preferably one she finds annoying). She'll be extra pleased when she finds out it's actually for her.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A gift certificate for a tune-up for her sewing machine. It looks like Sears will do &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.searshomeservices.com/repair/sewing-machine-repair-service&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;repairs&lt;/a&gt; on a Kenmore, but I couldn't tell if they also offer adjustment and cleaning. They have DIY manuals on their site, so you could study up and do the tune-up yourself. Be sure to use the right kind of lubricant and not just whatever you have lying around (tip: 3-in-1 oil is not good for sewing machines).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you get, make sure it's high quality. Do some research and find a brand that has a good reputation for both quality and customer service. Make sure they have a good replacement policy in case the item breaks at some point in the future. If you buy from someplace like Amazon or Ebay, check whether the manufacturer will still honor the replacement policy (ask me about the broken set of knitting needles for which I can't get a free replacement because the gifter bought them on Amazon instead of directly from the supplier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure she actually has space to use the item and space to store it. That might mean you need to get into her workspace and take some measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T07:19:38.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8775" CreationDate="2020-12-11T17:20:14.570" Score="4" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to tap into some areas of concrete and I'm reaching to find out what might be considered to be the most durable concrete for small piece jewelry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would it be grout? Maybe a plaster that's considered strongest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If concrete can be made stronger with something like fiberglass, iron filings, etc., I'd like to hear about that, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, is there a concrete sealer that can harden concrete, that would be valuable for this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9929" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T20:15:23.300" Title="What is considered the most durable concrete for jewelry?" Tags="|jewelry|concrete|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8773" CreationDate="2020-12-11T20:15:23.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mainly a terminology thing, but &amp;quot;concrete&amp;quot; wouldn't be used for jewelry.  That term refers to a mix that includes large aggregate that's held together with a cement binder.  On something like a road or sidewalk, the layer of rocks provides the strength and the cement just holds it in place.  On relatively thick art castings, you might be able to use a filler of aggregate the size of say pea gravel or aquarium gravel if you need compressive strength.  On small items, especially jewelry size, there would be no need for aggregate, and its presence could even work against you.  If you wanted the appearance of the aggregate, you might need to make an over sized lump containing aggregate and then cut it to size with something like a diamond blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the size of things like cement countertops, large bowls, and art sculptures on buildings, what's used is typically a mix of sand and cement, sometimes with strengtheners like embedded fibers.  At jewelry size, it's typically sand and cement.  The particle size used depends on the item size and surface texture/detail desired.  For example, if you're casting tiny beads or something that will have a smooth surface with fine detail, you would need a very fine particle size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your objective is something that looks like concrete, with a grainy surface texture, you can use products sold as concrete toppers (the particular product selected wouldn't make much difference for your purpose).  These are designed to add a thin layer on top of existing concrete as a repair or leveler.  They are generally very strong because a thin layer has to hold up to wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your objective is something that looks more like polished stone, with a very smooth surface and/or fine detail, there are a few products designed for that purpose.  One is cement mixtures designed for countertops.  Another is a product that's popular among hobbyists for small castings, made by Rapid Set, called &lt;a href=&quot;https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/11/114f18c8-4dd3-4373-b431-471fb67487ed.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cement All&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZoCbh.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZoCbh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image courtesy Home Depot&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's available at hardware stores, and package sizes include relatively small quantities that will go a long way if you're just using it for jewelry.  You can mix it to a soupy consistency and make extremely detailed castings (if the mold is very smooth, the result will look polished and shiny, like polished stone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The filler is very fine silica, and the binder is CSA cement rather than Portland cement.  CSA cement is superior to Portland cement in that it is stronger, doesn't shrink, reaches full strength faster, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to add anything to these cement mixes for strength, they will be plenty strong for jewelry purposes.  There are dyes you can add for a desired color.  Concrete is porous and can absorb stains if it's handled a lot.  You can seal the surface with a sealant designed for countertops, coat it with resin, or just spray it with a clear finish.  Cement can be brittle, so dropping it on a hard surface could chip or crack it.  Coating it with resin or a clear finish would provide additional protection against that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T20:15:23.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8769" CreationDate="2020-12-11T21:33:18.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different metals have different issues.  For example, aluminum is highly reactive with the alkaline concrete (the reaction is used to create foamed concrete).  Iron rusts and decomposes all the way through.  Besides losing its integrity, the rust can crack the concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brass is much less affected by the concrete.  The concrete can accelerate development of the patina and pitting on the surfaces in contact, which would not be visible.  This won't affect the integrity of either the brass or concrete.  And concrete covering one portion of the brass won't affect the exposed, visible brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a more important issue is just that brass tarnishes, even when it's well protected by a finish.  If the finish is at all permeable to air, the brass will tarnish underneath and the finish just makes it harder to polish the brass again.  If you want the patina as part of the intended design, great.  But if you want the brass to look polished, the concrete will make life difficult.  Concrete is porous, and cleaning the brass later will stain the concrete.  You could try to seal the concrete to facilitate cleaning the brass later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go this route, don't embed the brass in the concrete when you mold the concrete; that would make it almost impossible to seal the concrete where they meet (and they expand and contract at different rates).  Instead, mold or drill a hole for the brass.  Seal the concrete, and you may want to seal the brass.  Then put the brass in the concrete.  I wouldn't try to crimp the brass after it's in the concrete, as it will create stress that could break the concrete (it has very little tensile strength).  I would glue the brass in place if it is necessary to hold it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T21:33:18.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-12T14:53:15.737" Score="5" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the difference between soldering and welding. What I'm confused with is how do you chose which one to use, when is one more suitable than the other and when one should be avoided. I hope someone here could explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9998" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T17:41:57.097" Title="How to chose between soldering and welding?" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8777" CreationDate="2020-12-12T19:04:43.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the benefit of other readers, let me start with a brief explanation, and I'll expand the terminology to include brazing.  Soldering and brazing are the same process, the difference is the temperature at which it happens.  Both involve using a filler metal that melts far below the temperature of the base metal to be joined; when this process happens below 842°F it's called soldering, above that temperature it's called brazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Welding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welding involves melting the base metal so the liquid metal from the two pieces to be joined flows together.  Additional metal of the same kind can be melted and added as filler.  This creates a single, solid piece of the base metal.  The strength of the joint will be determined by the amount of metal there and how the &amp;quot;heat treatment&amp;quot; of the melting process affects it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we ignore spot welding for this discussion, where sheets of metal are overlapped and then melted together at small spots, welding is typically an &amp;quot;edge&amp;quot; process.  Pieces are butted against each other and the edges are melted together, or the edge of one piece is melted to the face of another piece.  Welding typically takes place on an exposed surface, and strength is achieved by filling or building to create the desired thickness of metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soldering / Brazing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soldering and brazing are a bit like hot gluing metal together with other metal. Metal with a melting temperature much lower than the base metal is melted and used like glue to stick the base metal pieces together (done by heating the base metal to above the melting point of the filler metal, and that melts the filler metal).  The solder or brazing material forms a metallurgical bond with the base metal, but it doesn't have the mechanical strength of the base metal.  So you can't butt two pieces of base metal together, connect them with some solder, and expect the solder to perform as if you have a solid piece of base metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solder and brazing joints rely on a different principle.  The mechanical strength comes from the base metal; typically, two pieces of the base metal overlap and a thin layer of the solder or brazing material between them keeps them from sliding or pulling apart.  The liquefied solder or brazing material flows over the base metal surface in a thin layer through wetting the surface and flowing as a liquid, and by being drawn into gaps via capillary action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength doesn't come from the filler metal.  The filler metal is typically just a few thousandths of an inch thick.  The strength comes from a large surface area, where the stresses are trying to shear a lot of filler metal the &amp;quot;long&amp;quot; way, or trying to pull it apart across a large surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Chris H points out in a comment, brazing can also be used for some welding-style joints.  If you use a filler metal that has mechanical strength and melts below the temperature of the base metal, it can be melted and built up around the joint so that the filler metal is providing the mechanical strength of the joint (called &amp;quot;fillet brazing&amp;quot;).  In this case, the strength of the joint depends on the mechanical properties of the filler metal, how thick it is, and how much area of base metal it's bonded to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When to use which&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both approaches can have similar, or at least adequate, strength.  Ignoring the fact that welding takes specialized equipment and more skill, there are a number of considerations that go into the choice of approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nature of the joint.&lt;/strong&gt;  As described above, the type of joint may point to one method or the other.  For example, if you need to butt two edges together, soldering/brazing generally won't be a good solution.  If you need to join two thin nesting tubes and ensure the joint will hold liquid or gas under pressure (think copper plumbing or refrigeration systems), welding is not a good solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strength requirement.&lt;/strong&gt;  If strength is a critical factor and the joint needs to have at least the same strength as the base metal, some joint configurations may require welding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Size.&lt;/strong&gt;  Soldering/brazing requires heating a large surface to above the melting temperature of the filler.  Two massive metal base pieces may conduct heat away too fast for soldering/brazing to be practical, or to evenly heat the entire joint.  Welding uses very localized heat, so large pieces can be joined with a series of welds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the other size extreme, welding is too crude.  For a weld to have useful strength, it needs to involve a substantive amount of metal, and the melt area will be large enough to readily see.  Welding isn't typically suitable for something like assembling jewelry components.  The melt area will visibly affect the shape of the piece.  And if you need to fix the shape by grinding the weld, you're often wasting precious metals.  So jewelry-making normally uses soldering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material to be joined.&lt;/strong&gt;  The heat required for welding might distort the pieces to be joined.  Thin material can melt and flow away from the surrounding material, destroying the shape or integrity of the material.  Soldering or brazing keeps everything below the melting temperature of the base metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of base metal may introduce considerations.  Soldering or brazing requires use of a filler metal that will wet and bond with the base metal.  At welding temperatures, some metals quickly oxidize, so welding may require use of special equipment that keeps the molten metal in a chemically inert atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The need to join dissimilar metals.&lt;/strong&gt;  Soldering and brazing allow you to join two different base metals, which you can't do with welding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Post-joining requirements.&lt;/strong&gt;  If the joined pieces might ever need to be separated, soldering/brazing would allow that (e.g., reworking copper plumbing).  If the joined pieces might be exposed to high heat, either in subsequent fabrication steps or the environment in which it will be used, welding might be required to prevent the joint from falling apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appearance and cleanup.&lt;/strong&gt;  Welding typically doesn't leave a nice finished appearance.  If appearance is important, the joint usually requires grinding.  If soldering or brazing leaves excess material, it is easily melted so it self-levels or can be wiped away.  It is also typically softer than the base metal and is easily abraded in a controlled way to give it a finished appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Industrial process.&lt;/strong&gt;  In an industrial or mass production setting, there can be considerations of speed and cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These aren't all of the considerations, but it will provide a flavor of the decision factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-13T17:41:57.097" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T17:41:57.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2732" CreationDate="2020-12-13T01:10:19.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know a specific style but I think searching up &amp;quot;Anime Realistic Kawaii art&amp;quot; will get something similar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10001" LastActivityDate="2020-12-13T01:10:19.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-14T07:37:41.127" Score="9" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I’m knitting a swatch with both vertical and horizontal stripes, basically a plaid that’s fully knitted and not with the third color woven in. For most multicolor patterns, I have done it by just cutting the yarn at each color change. But for this swatch, I think I want to carry the yarn up. Here’s the swatch currently from both sides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wcXiq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wcXiq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knit Side, you can see the 2 color cast on I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5QDI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5QDI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purl Side, you can see the floats of the stranded colorwork I’m doing for the vertical stripes. On the first purl row, I caught the longer black floats by doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purl 2 red stitches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slip third stitch purlwise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick up black float&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slip the third stitch back, again purlwise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purl the red stitch together with the float&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did that to make sure that the floats didn’t become visible on the Knit side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few more rows, I plan on knitting a green horizontal stripe. And this is why I’m asking about carrying the yarn, I might need to cut a few ends, but not as many if I don’t carry the yarn and only 1 color would have to be cut that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, how would I carry the yarn up when I have these vertical stripes going on?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1121" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T05:47:03.483" Title="How to carry the yarn in stripes?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6124" CreationDate="2020-12-16T21:37:54.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of these seem like a good and or full answer or response. Neither is this, but I can elaborate if necessary. The best way to introduce translucent color to an epoxy resin pour is to use mica powder. Mica powder is a multiple thinly layered powder and is the answer for adding translucence to your pour. Do not thin, do not use acrylic paint, and if you have bubble issues after you have fully mixed, then use either an extremely expensive vacuum technique (the proper use of which is not common even among many professionals). Rather, use a heat gun and/or a mini propane blow torch. Also, make sure you maintain the ambient temperature indicated by the epoxy. This usually involves a heat source and the ability to maintain the temperature in a room, or creating a &amp;quot;hot box&amp;quot; using a space heater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10020" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2020-12-17T14:43:50.593" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T14:43:50.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32" CreationDate="2020-12-17T11:18:40.177" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ink-jet/laser transfer is much more durable than others. It comes in two types: dye-based and pigment-based. Dyes can be easily dissolved in water and provide an awesome saturated color. I believe high-quality printing impacts a lot of the fabric quality. If whenever you think of ordering a shirt from an online store, try to know the whole process of printing and a comparison in each method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10030" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-17T17:04:14.913" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T17:04:14.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6124" CreationDate="2020-12-17T23:10:09.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure we're all actually referring to the same properties.  Let me start with some definitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transparency&lt;/strong&gt; refers to light passing through the material without being diffused or scattered.  If the material is transparent, you can change its color but still see undistorted detail.  Think &amp;quot;looking at the world through rose-colored glasses&amp;quot;.  Transparent tinting filters the color spectrum of the light that gets through, but the light that gets through does not have the detail degraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Translucency&lt;/strong&gt; refers to light passing through the material but being diffused or scattered.  Virtually all of the light makes it through the material, but the direction and relative position get randomized.  There are a few common ways of making a material translucent.  One is to etch the surface to frost it, which scatters the light direction.  Another is to mix two transparent materials with a different refractive index.  Light passing through gets bent in random directions (the result looks cloudy).  These methods don't significantly reduce the amount of light getting through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simulate translucency by mixing in a small amount of opaque powder.  That reduces the amount of light getting through by making the material partially opaque.  Some of the light will reflect off the powder particles and make it through the material in some other direction, imparting the powder's color to the mix of light getting through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the wording of the question, it sounds like you might be looking for transparent color rather than translucent color (it seems like you achieved translucent color but that wasn't what you wanted).  There are many different kinds of resin systems, so unfortunately, it will take some experimentation to get the result you desire with a particular resin.  In the most general terms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want transparent color (the &amp;quot;crystal clarity&amp;quot;), the choice of colorants will be pretty limited.  It will have to be a physically compatible, transparent dye material of virtually the same refractive index as the resin.  This will probably be a resin dye made for this purpose.  You may luck out with something else, like certain alcohol inks, but it will take experimentation to see what works with your resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your goal is translucent color without opacity, a range of techniques and colored materials can work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make it a transparent color and frost the resin surface on one side (e.g., via etching or sand blasting with a suitable medium, or cast the resin on a frosted surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a transparent colored powder of a different refractive index (e.g., colored glass dust).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add a transparent dye of a different refractive index.  It will need to be something that mixes with the resin, otherwise it will aggregate in visible bubbles or specks.  You may also find that if the dye is in a carrier liquid, it can separate in the resin.  That can leave blotchy results, where some areas have more pronounced color and other areas are an unattractive cloudy color.  You can also encounter strange color changes, where the finished color doesn't look like the dye color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the amount of dye can introduce unexpected color changes.  A very common one is with yellow.  Trace amounts of yellow dye will look yellow.  But as you add more, it will look orange or red (it has to do with the spectrum of light being filtered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can make it cloudy by creating lots of tiny air bubbles, but it is hard to make this uniform or to control the size of the bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind some opacity and the associated reduction of light passing through, there are some additional techniques available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it a transparent color and apply a flat clear finish.  What makes the finish flat is typically extremely fine silica (it may be somewhat translucent, but there will be light loss).  You would need to experiment with how thick a coating to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix in a tiny amount of extremely fine colored opaque powder, like the eye shadow you tried (which is mostly mica and colorant).  You might want to grind it even finer, and mix it in so it is very well and evenly distributed.  A tiny amount will impart some color and translucency without too much light loss, but adding more will quickly make the resin opaque.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Embed a material that will be translucent.  A number of materials will become somewhat translucent when saturated with resin, like tissue paper and some fabrics or fibers.  You can get some interesting effects by embedding a thin layer of such material in transparent resin.  You may need to remove air bubbles by using a vacuum chamber, or use a process that allows the resin to soak into the material and saturate it without trapping air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-17T23:15:13.903" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T23:15:13.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8791" CreationDate="2020-12-19T14:24:07.337" Score="7" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cousin has already used acrylic paint on wood to produce paintings such as these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcDoT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcDoT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Acrylic paint on wood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But his paintings are not &amp;quot;glowing&amp;quot;, i.e. they don't have bright colors. He asked me how to make them bright &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the painting is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my cousin is looking for solutions such as these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some type of spray which might make the paints bright and &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some kind of homemade solution to apply to paintings to achieve that effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;... ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bright &amp;quot;glowing&amp;quot; sample is provided by my cousin below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ao6v.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ao6v.png&quot; alt=&quot;Glowing bright paint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10045" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-20T03:14:33.577" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T18:45:10.213" Title="Acrylic paint on wood: how to make it &quot;glow&quot; after the painting is already done" Tags="|painting|paint|wood|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8790" CreationDate="2020-12-19T16:43:52.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's hard to judge the real difference between the paintings your nephew made and the example of the goal he has in mind: the first are taken in what seems a yellowish light, while the second is colour corrected (at least, it seems to have a proper white balance set) and taken in bright light.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Assuming both the eyes of the giraffe and the fur on the hat of the bird are white in reality, this reproduction comes closer to what the artworks look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ThTn3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ThTn3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A colour corrected version of the photo of paintings on wood as posted by the OP&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The visual change this inflicts notwithstanding, there are a few remedies to make the colours in the paintings brighter (assuming no coat has been applied afterwards, since that potentially influences the solutions and makes them dependent on the nature of the coating; if this is the case, let me know, and I can update my answer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Retouch&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's easiest to retouch or repaint (parts of) the paintings.&#xA;The saturation of the current hues may have suffered from dilution or mixing with other hues.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Use pure, unmixed paints, and apply them undiluted on top of the existing colours.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The yellow of the bird, for example, seems to be a desaturated or earthy yellow, or a yellow ochre. If a brighter hue is desired, apply an unmixed pure yellow over it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glaze_(painting_technique)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glazing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternatively, mix a (semi-)transparent colour using clear, unspoiled water and use it to give depth to the existing colours.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This technique is especially wonderful with oil paints (mixed with oil instead of water, naturally) as it gives very rich colours and depth to paintings, but with acrylics it also works quite well. You can even glaze your acrylic paintings with oil paints as well, for additional control and colour richness. For this to work the paints must have dried completely, so as not to spoil them by mixing with the existing layer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As an example, you can use a diluted or translucent pure red (e.g. madder lake) to glaze the existing red of the Christmas hat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Use neon colours&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the aforementioned &lt;strong&gt;neon colours&lt;/strong&gt; to really saturate some of the colours. The range of neon colours is limited, but you can use them to make some of the existing colours, like the yellow of the bird, really pop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other answers point out the role the support plays in the saturation of colours. Wood, especially dried, porous, and/or unprepared, may indeed absorb part of the paint or water in acrylics. Apart from their colours becoming brighter, this is another good reason to use undiluted acrylics, as they will effectively form a plastic layer on top of the support. It then functions similar to acrylic gesso, a property on which some of the solutions offered here are based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-20T18:45:10.213" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T18:45:10.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8790" CreationDate="2020-12-19T20:32:12.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically this is not an answer, because I don't know how to make colors &amp;quot;glow&amp;quot; after the painting is finished. My best bet is to try a glossy varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason why the paintings don't glow is that they don't reflect enough light. Two main causes for that come to my mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The wood beneath the paints absorbs light.&lt;/strong&gt; He should prime the wood with white before painting the pictures on it. That way the light that travels through the layer of colored paint is reflected by the white layer instead of partially absorbed by the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;He uses the wrong paints.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The physical an chemical composition of paint decides how it looks. Glossy paint glows more than matte paint. Pastel colors tend to seem shinier than dark colors. Earthy tones don't ever seem to glow at all. Cheap paints tend to be more muted or chalky and some paints in really powerful shining colors are very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to make his paintings &amp;quot;glow&amp;quot; is to paint them with paints that &amp;quot;glow&amp;quot;. Which brings me to my final question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does he compare apples with oranges?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example picture seems to be a porcelain plate, which already is white and smooth and very reflective. I assume the image was painted with porcelain paints or pens, which tend to be semi-transparent. Those colors &amp;quot;glow&amp;quot; because the incoming light can pass through the color layer, is reflected off the white porcelain surface, passes through the color again and then reaches your eye. That means that a relatively small percentage of light is absorbed by the object and a high percentage of the light gets reflected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your cousin's pictures are painted with matte, opaque colors on a rough, natural surface.  The light cannot pass well through the color, but is reflected by the upper surface of the paint. Under a microscope you could see that the paint itself has a rough surface. Due to this roughness some light gets absorbed by the paint and some is scattered away from your eyes. In the end, less light reaches your eye and the painting doesn't &amp;quot;glow&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The physical properties of these two types of paint are so extremely different that you cannot realistically compare them. If he wants &amp;quot;glowy&amp;quot; colors like in the example, he would have to prime the wood with a glossy white and then paint the images using transparent or semi-transperant paints like ceramic paints...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-20T11:11:47.190" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T11:11:47.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8790" CreationDate="2020-12-20T03:08:37.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You used the term &amp;quot;glow&amp;quot;, but as others have pointed out, what you're referring to is making the colors pop; making them more vivid and with more depth (&amp;quot;glowing&amp;quot; requires that they emit their own light, which can be done but that's not what you're looking for here).  Even if your cousin did make the colors literally glow in the second example, we wouldn't be able to see that effect in a posted image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers by Joachim and Elmy do a good job of explaining how to make the colors pop when starting from scratch, and why the &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; example in the second picture was able to accomplish it while the items in the first picture didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question focuses on what can be done after the fact to make items like the ones in the first picture pop.  The vividness and visual depth of the color is affected by a number of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The substrate.&lt;/strong&gt;  As Elmy describes, a big factor is the base on which the painting is created.  Ideally, that should be smooth and bright white.  Photographers sometimes make prints pop even more by printing on &amp;quot;metallic&amp;quot; paper.  At this point, it's too late to do anything about the substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The paint.&lt;/strong&gt;  It's too late to start with paint that's better for this purpose.  The existing designs could be touched up or repainted with better paint or tinted glaze, but that sort of defeats the premise of the question -- starting at the point that the existing paintings are done.  Trying to touch up or repaint risks messing up what's there; it would make more sense to just start over and use the right materials to accomplish the objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coating or finish.&lt;/strong&gt;  The question asks about a spray or solution that can make the existing colors pop more.  Elmy's answer suggests applying a glossy varnish.  That will improve it, and there are many clear finishes you could use.  A popular one is Crystal Clear Acrylic spray finish by Krylon, which doesn't yellow.  But you can do better than the improvement you would get with a thin, glossy finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This starting point actually isn't too different from a common crafting task of making jewelry pendants, coasters, and similar items from small paintings or pictures clipped from printed material.  The artwork often suffers from not having vivid colors that pop in the original, but the finished product is greatly improved in that respect.  The key is embedding the art in a clear resin that is well bonded to the art's surface.  The resin &amp;quot;cover&amp;quot; fills any irregularities on the artwork surface, and is thick enough so that the top surface is smooth.  It acts somewhat like a lens, improving contrast and clarity.  There are a number of ways this can be done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using a pre-formed glass or plastic dome.&lt;/strong&gt;  This works best with something that is perfectly flat, like something printed on paper.  The paper is saturated with a clear adhesive and bonded to the flat backside of the dome so that the dome makes good optical contact with the surface.  This approach wouldn't be suitable for artwork on wood with an uneven surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Embedding in clear resin.&lt;/strong&gt;  Two types of resin are often used for this approach.  One is two-part resin designed to be poured over a surface as a clear top coat.  It flows over the surface to form a thick, smooth coating that hardens into a clear plastic layer.  Another is clear embossing powder, which is melted in a temperature-controlled pan and then poured over the artwork.  Controlling the temperature is important because it can discolor a little if overheated (an effect some people like because it provides an &amp;quot;antique&amp;quot; appearance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Covering with a &amp;quot;dimensional&amp;quot; finish.&lt;/strong&gt;  There are a number of typically water-based products designed to be poured over the surface in a fairly thick layer, or series of layers, that dry to form a relatively thick, clear coating.  They are viscous enough, and have enough surface tension, to generally stay where you put it, even with a thick puddle, but it self-levels to a smooth, uniform surface.  The result is similar to resin but without the mess, fumes, waste, or need for special equipment; you just dispense what you need from a bottle and let it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how impervious to water these products are when dry.  Popular products include JudiKins Diamond Glaze, Mod Podge Dimensional Magic, and Ranger Glossy Accents.  If you do a search on &amp;quot;dimensional medium&amp;quot;, you'll find lots of suitable products, and YouTube videos comparing them.  Some of the alternatives may yellow a little over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T03:08:37.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-20T16:50:43.590" Score="6" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried making a pom pom with a fork method several times now, experimenting with different amount of yarn/string and different thicknesses. No matter how I do it, even after trimming they look kinda separated in the middle, like an apple core. Two semi-spheres with a core in the middle. How to prevent that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10055" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T08:22:37.990" Title="How can I prevent my pom poms made by fork method to not look separated in the middle?" Tags="|yarn|string|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-22T11:48:54.487" Score="7" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend began taking up leatherwork. This tool came in a kit he bought. We know what everything else is except for this piece, and a reverse Google image search came up short. Just showed us bullets and pencils. Anybody know what this is and what it's for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mt1jL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mt1jL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10059" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-22T18:17:50.037" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T01:34:51.617" Title="Can any leather crafters tell me what tool this is?" Tags="|leather|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8795" CreationDate="2020-12-22T18:13:08.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Awls are typically used for punching holes into objects, awls come in different styles. This one in particular, if you look at the back end, looks very durable, and able to be hammered on the back without issues. So it is able to push through thick leather easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard image of an awl:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SR5SC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SR5SC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Awl being used to punch hole:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2xqN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2xqN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Awl being used in practice to lace leather:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LDsGx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LDsGx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hausoftools.com/blogs/news/tools-of-the-trade-tools-for-leather-working&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://hausoftools.com/blogs/news/tools-of-the-trade-tools-for-leather-working&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/how-to-prepare-leather-for-sewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/how-to-prepare-leather-for-sewing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2020-12-29T04:28:49.897" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T04:28:49.897" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-24T15:51:25.507" Score="2" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZ1ZZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZ1ZZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sketch is self-explanatory, I'm referring to the squares at the bottom, any additional weaving tips will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10070" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T15:51:25.507" Title="How do include weft inside the diagonal squares in the sketch of the weave provided?" Tags="|weaving|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-12-25T11:17:04.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-25T20:45:17.873" Score="3" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a couple of needle punch kits from Joann's for Christmas, along with a 2.2 mm adjustable length punch needle (Boye), which was the recommended tool for the kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading the instructions for the first kit (a fox's face) and it recommends using the #4 setting for the inner ears and whites of the eyes and the #8 setting for the rest of the face. My punch needle has settings from 0 to 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard definition for #4 and #8? A needle length, perhaps, that I can use to convert to my needle's numbering system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, how would I go about adjusting the settings? Would 2 and 4 work or 2 and 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10076" LastEditorUserId="10076" LastEditDate="2020-12-25T20:51:30.840" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T20:51:30.840" Title="Punch needle tool settings do not match kit instructions" Tags="|embroidery|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-25T23:23:09.337" Score="2" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making charms to maybe start a business.  Can I bake my clay with the lobster clasp embedded in it? Or will I have to hot glue it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10078" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-26T22:16:03.633" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T11:32:37.420" Title="Can I bake oven-bake clay with embedded lobster clasps?" Tags="|wire|polymer-clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8801" CreationDate="2020-12-26T21:50:17.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Can you&amp;quot; is a different question from &amp;quot;is that the best way&amp;quot;.  I think the answer is you can, but it probably isn't the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Embedding the clasp, then baking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal in the clasp shouldn't interfere with the clay's hardening or properties.  The clasps don't typically have a finish that would be damaged by the heat, and even cheap pot metal shouldn't melt at the clay's baking temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One potential issue that comes to mind is that metal expands and contracts with temperature more than the clay once it's hardened.  Cold isn't likely to be a problem.  While the charms are baking, they will be exposed to far higher temperature than they will see later.  So expansion won't be an issue.  But when the charms cool after baking, the clasp will shrink slightly and might be looser than you expect (captured but not &amp;quot;bonded&amp;quot; to the clay).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a bigger potential issue being ease of breakage.  You mention that you're thinking about selling the charms.  If you're making them just for yourself, you can be very careful how you handle it.  If it breaks, you can make another.  If you sell them, customers will be disappointed if they easily break, and a reputation for quality will help your business grow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be a lot of leverage at the attachment point in the clay.  Lobster clasps are normally attached with a ring, which allows the clasp to move in any direction without stressing what it's attached to.  If the clasp is embedded in the charm, the clay will be much thinner around the clasp.  If the charm is thin, it won't take much pressure on the clasp to break the clasp out of the charm unless you build up the clay thicker around the attachment point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attaching the clasp after baking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, these clasps are designed to be attached with a ring, which leaves the clasp free to move without putting stress on what it's attached to.  You can drill a hole in the charm for a ring after it's baked, or make a hole in the clay with something like a toothpick before you bake it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your objective is to have the clasp rigidly held in the charm, gluing it to the surface of the charm isn't a good solution.  I wouldn't trust hot glue, there are better adhesives.  However, it won't look good (and you're thinking about selling them).  If you want a rigid attachment, you might as well bake it in initially, but with building up the attachment area so there's a reasonable thickness of clay around the clasp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find complications doing it that way, like getting the clasp to lay parallel because of differences in thickness.  You could play around with finding something the right thickness to shim under the clasp or charm for alignment while it's baking, or you could make a thick-walled pocket in the clay to glue in the clasp after baking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go that route, hot glue probably wouldn't be the best way to hold it in.  The pocket will be tiny, and it will be hard to get hot glue into it, at least without messy cleanup.  Epoxy would commonly be used for this, but I'd be tempted to use something like clear silicone adhesive/caulk.  That will remain rubbery, which will provide a little additional protection against breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gluing procedure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you glue in the clasp, it will be hard to get the glue to flow into the clasp's ring loop because there probably won't be much clearance between the clasp and the sides of the pocket.  Use a procedure like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill the pocket half to two-thirds full with glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of the clasp's loop and the viscosity of the glue, use one of these two methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the clasp's loop with glue, then slowly push the clasp into the pocket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or, push the clasp's loop halfway in, fill the loop starting with the leading side so air isn't trapped, then continue to fill the loop as you push it into the pocket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This will force the glue in the pocket into the nooks and crannies and allow air to escape.  It will also displace some glue from the pocket that you can push back in to backfill around the clasp at the top of the pocket.  You may need to add more glue to the top of the pocket once the clasp is all the way in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wipe away any excess and clean up the charm before the glue cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-26T22:26:49.117" LastActivityDate="2020-12-26T22:26:49.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8809" CreationDate="2020-12-27T01:49:53.960" Score="5" ViewCount="8409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a product like Shapecrete which appears to no longer be made.  According to the website &lt;code&gt;shapecrete.com&lt;/code&gt; the product looks like it is a type of concrete that can be worked like clay. Thus, it is easier for making rather thin walled sculptures (ex: they have a youtube example of making a hollow birdhouse).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In contrast to clay, it seems to air-dry very hard and has the appearance of concrete.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I never used it myself, but I particularly like how the texture seems to have those tiny air bubbles like regular concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1Fkl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1Fkl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oye5a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oye5a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bird&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10085" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2020-12-27T07:54:58.920" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T09:34:20.517" Title="Alternative to Shapecrete - moldable concrete that is workable like clay" Tags="|sculpting|clay|concrete|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8806" CreationDate="2020-12-27T02:45:27.563" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that some concrete items (actually often interiors of buildings) have a certain texture characterized by being very smooth with tiny bubbles as shown in the image below.  Is there a term for this type of concrete texture or a technique for achieving it or a special type of concrete that produces it?  I don't think it's often done deliberately so I have been having trouble with google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0icZG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0icZG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;texture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h50Gp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h50Gp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10085" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T07:28:04.100" Title="Achieving Smooth Concrete Texture with Tiny Bubbles" Tags="|concrete|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8805" CreationDate="2020-12-27T05:14:23.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Surface texture&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fineness of the sand determines the surface texture (ignoring texture created by the surface of the mold or through a treatment like brushing the surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On something like a sidewalk, where high traction is important, relatively coarse sand may be used or combined with finer sand, resulting in a gritty surface.  Finer sand is used for purposes such as building construction.  Non-decorative concrete walls are pretty smooth but &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; (as in not glossy).  For concrete countertops and some art casting, extremely fine sand is used.  If the mold has a smooth, polished surface, the resulting concrete can look like shiny stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triangular castings in the top picture look like ordinary, general purpose concrete (although the units toward the back look like they were made without using good technique that an experienced concrete worker would use for structural purposes). The planter in your bottom picture looks like it was cast using a general purpose mix, either a concrete topper or one containing very small aggregate.  The irregular rim and non-uniform color suggests this could have been mixed with some other material, or it was a recipe mixed from scratch.  But the surface texture looks like the sand particle size used in a standard, general purpose mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bubbles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concrete has bubbles.  Air fills the space between the particles when it's dry and air gets blended in when it's mixed with water.  Concrete starts with bubbles.  If you don't do anything to it, it will harden with bubbles.  For concrete structures, like buildings, bubbles affect the strength and longevity.  So after fresh concrete is poured, it is vibrated to help the bubbles work their way to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On something like building construction, the forms are often very tall, so even pouring and working in layers, it's hard to eliminate all the bubbles.  With art casting, the craftsman may not have been trained in concrete techniques.  But on a thin-walled casting like the planter in your bottom picture, it's harder to get all the bubbles out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also could have been intentional to give it the appearance of crude, poured concrete, which is a different look from the smooth surface of clay (they could have achieved a clay-like surface texture in concrete with a different mix and technique if that's what they were going for).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, referring to the cast triangular item in the upper right of the first picture, that has an unusual amount of bubbles -- more than concrete normally has.  That one looks like the craftsman may have been experimenting with partially foaming concrete.  They may have used additives, and probably whipped the concrete more than blending it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terminology&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see hardened concrete with visible bubbles, the term for that would be &amp;quot;concrete&amp;quot;.  A more precise term for concrete with the smooth, flat surface texture like the items in your pictures would be &amp;quot;general purpose concrete&amp;quot;.  The technique for achieving that surface texture would be pouring it into a form or mold with smooth sides and then leaving it alone until it's hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, what's pictured is not special in any way and doesn't have terms for a special mix, technique, or finish.  It's concrete with no special treatment.  It would take a special mix or technique to make it look different from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-27T07:28:04.100" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T07:28:04.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2020-12-28T00:46:37.890" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;and thank you for any input you may be able to provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was drawn to this site by the question and answer about beer bottle labels, but that doesn't seem to apply for what I have in mind, and neither do any other of the question/answer combos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am seeking to make refrigerator magnets with glass square fronts and disc magnet backs, and at this point am thinking in terms of two or three types of images to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One might be color (pigment) inkjet printed images on cotton photo paper with full coverage, a second might be either cotton photo paper or some sort of printmaking paper like Canson Edition or Rives BFK block or line printing that would only have partial coverage with the image (although the photo paper would have some sort of coating), and the third might be cotton based paper suitable for oil painting with full coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil paints I would use would be fast drying. Do you think some sort of varnish be necessary over the oil paint in order to get the best bond?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best type of glue to attach disk magnets? I’ve heard hot glue would be good, and I’ve also known people who would put their faith in E-6000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t know if Mod podge would be sufficient for what I'm thinking of, and/or if it would work as a protective coating on the back of the image, and whether the back coating should be applied before or after the magnet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any recommendations of types and sources of disc magnets would be welcome, as well as advice about what magnets to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KnowledgeSeeker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10088" LastEditorUserId="10088" LastEditDate="2020-12-28T01:03:58.360" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T01:03:58.360" Title="Best glues for attaching images to glass (Image facing the glass), and magnet questions" Tags="|adhesives|glass|varnish|decoupage-glue|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-12-28T17:40:13.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8804" CreationDate="2020-12-28T23:55:54.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is premised on a particular cement product that could be handled like clay but appeared to dry looking like poured concrete.  It turns out that is not the case.  So the &amp;quot;simplest&amp;quot; answer is that the question is based on bad assumptions.  However, depending on actual requirements, the objective of the question could have full or partial solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ShapeCrete&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the product that triggered the question.  The example you saw on the ShapeCrete web site is easy to misinterpret.  After a lot of investigation, it appears it was an anomaly, and not quite what it seemed to look like.  Getting into all the details would be tangential to this answer.  But if you want to exploring that example, what it appeared to be and why, the technique used, or how to reliably get readily-visible bubbles in ShapeCrete or a similar product, that would be great fodder for a separate question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key points are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a cement product.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be mixed to be pourable, in which case it will have the bubbles of poured concrete but not the surface texture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be mixed to handle like clay, in which case the result will look like clay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is no longer available.  But if what it does is useful to you, yes, there are alternatives.  I found an equivalent competing product: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0877B827X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SculptCrete&lt;/a&gt;.  There may be others.  Note that neither ShapeCrete nor its competitors will dry to look like poured concrete when used like clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DIY Mixes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also DIY cement mixes that handle like clay.  They typically have a surface texture like concrete rather than like clay.  So a DIY mixture may be close enough for some applications, or could be a good starting point to replicate the look of poured concrete.  Do a search on &amp;quot;diy concrete clay&amp;quot;.  You'll find videos like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4j5qgNFQE0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making a Concrete Mix that Works Like Clay&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWTihkgJQKA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Make Concrete Clay At Home&lt;/a&gt;.  Each recipe will have different characteristics, depending on the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concrete appearance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The characteristic appearance of &lt;strong&gt;poured&lt;/strong&gt; concrete comes from two aspects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface texture (smooth and grainy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface bubbles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface texture comes from the component sand of a certain particle size.  That can be easily replicated by using a mixture that contains sand of similar size.  Clays use a much smaller particle size and result in a smoother surface.  However, you can start with a concrete mix and modify it to handle more like clay (most of the DIY concrete clay mixes), or start with an air dry clay and add some sand to make the surface texture similar to concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubbles are a characteristic of poured concrete.  Pouring it into a mold results in some of those bubbles being on what will become the surface when it is demolded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By its nature, clay-like materials do not have surface bubbles, at least of a size that looks like poured concrete.  You can do things to get bubbles into the surface.  On material that is wet, soft, and barely clay-like, it's easier to do and there are more ways to do it.  On material that is firm, dense clay, there are limited ways to modify the surface to produce bubble pocks, but it can be done.  If the material only has to &lt;strong&gt;look&lt;/strong&gt; like poured concrete and doesn't have to actually be concrete, there are more options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the requirement for handling like clay is the opposite of the requirement for surface bubbles.  The more clay-like it is, the fewer options there are for getting bubble pocks into the surface.  It's worth examining the requirements for a specific project in detail because there are trade-offs that can make the project a lot easier if some of the requirements aren't critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to get a specific kind or type of clay-like material to look like poured concrete would be a discussion for another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2020-12-30T09:34:20.517" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T09:34:20.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8795" CreationDate="2020-12-30T06:43:46.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me the tip looks just like the tool I use to apply edge coat.  The little indentations hold the edge coat as you apply it. I’m assuming the pointed end spins?  If so that’s what you have, a tool to apply an edge coat.  An edge coat is applied as a thick coating to finish any edge on your project.  Before that takes place you would burnish the edge with a chemical, gum tragacanth. I use fiebings for the gum and edge coat.  Or you can simply coat an edge using water, then using a clean cotton cloth rub the edges treated with water for just a few second, the edge will get glossy.  Then apply the edge coat.  Hope I nailed it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10098" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T06:43:46.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2021-01-01T21:49:40.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is 4 years old thread, but if this helps anyone, based on scanning and sampling I got the below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;101 White (RGB): #f5f7fb&#xA;102 Cream (RGB): #f2f3b9&#xA;103 Ivory (RGB): #f2f4e6&#xA;104 Light Yellow Glaze (RGB): #feff5b&#xA;105 Light Cadmium Yellow (RGB): #fefd5c&#xA;106 Light Chrome Yellow (RGB): #fdf861&#xA;107 Cadmium Yellow (RGB): #fef638&#xA;108 Dark Cadmium Yellow (RGB): #f2b821&#xA;109 Dark Chrome Yellow (RGB): #e9a041&#xA;110 Phthalo Blue (RGB): #128de4&#xA;111 Cadmium Orange (RGB): #e7884c&#xA;112 Leaf Green (RGB): #17c743&#xA;113 Orange Glaze (RGB): #ea5749&#xA;115 Dark Cadmium Orange (RGB): #ea584a&#xA;117 Light Cadmium red (RGB): #eb4e57&#xA;118 Scarlet Red (RGB): #e03d5b&#xA;119 Light Magenta (RGB): #df9ce4&#xA;120 Ultramarine (RGB): #5d81ee&#xA;121 Pale Geranium Lake (RGB): #e4335a&#xA;123 Fuchsia (RGB): #db439f&#xA;124 Rose Carmine (RGB): #e25c8a&#xA;125 Middle Purple Pink (RGB): #d13da6&#xA;126 Permanent Carmine (RGB): #d42758&#xA;127 Pink Carmine (RGB): #dd4584&#xA;128 Light Purple Pink (RGB): #e05bb1&#xA;129 Pink Madder Lake (RGB): #e37ec2&#xA;130 Dark Flesh (RGB): #e684a5&#xA;131 Medium Flesh (RGB): #dd7b89&#xA;132 Light Flesh (RGB): #e5bbb2&#xA;133 Magenta (RGB): #aa4069&#xA;134 Crimson (RGB): #b85bba&#xA;135 Light Red-Violet (RGB): #a358a9&#xA;136 Purple Violet (RGB): #7f4cc6&#xA;137 Blue Violet (RGB): #6345c5&#xA;138 Violet (RGB): #9f6dd8&#xA;140 Light Ultramarine (RGB): #86adf8&#xA;141 Delft Blue (RGB): #4835aa&#xA;142 Madder (RGB): #ce4f77&#xA;143 Cobalt Blue (RGB): #0a7dd5&#xA;144 Cobalt Blue-Greenish (RGB): #0b70cb&#xA;145 Light Phthalo Blue (RGB): #68bcf8&#xA;146 Smalt Blue (RGB): #87b1f8&#xA;149 Bluish Turquoise (RGB): #077dc0&#xA;151 Helioblue-Reddish (RGB): #2579d4&#xA;152 Middle Phthalo Blue (RGB): #0a91e7&#xA;153 Cobalt Turquoise (RGB): #078eb0&#xA;154 Light Cobalt Turquoise (RGB): #69d1e9&#xA;155 Helio Turquoise (RGB): #0d7f92&#xA;156 Cobalt Green (RGB): #23bdc9&#xA;157 Dark Indigo (RGB): #3c4b65&#xA;158 Deep Cobalt Green (RGB): #177f71&#xA;159 Hooker's Green (RGB): #2c9d68&#xA;160 Manganese Violet (RGB): #9954b8&#xA;161 Phthalo Green (RGB): #01ae8b&#xA;162 Light Phthalo Green (RGB): #1ad396&#xA;163 Emerald Green (RGB): #0cc98b&#xA;165 Juniper Green (RGB): #43865f&#xA;166 Grass Green (RGB): #6ad94e&#xA;167 Permanent Green Olive (RGB): #67983b&#xA;168 Earth Green Yellowish (RGB): #a6c565&#xA;169 Caput Mortuum (RGB): #8c5156&#xA;170 May Green (RGB): #bedb62&#xA;171 Light Green (RGB): #9fe56a&#xA;172 Earth Green (RGB): #879f85&#xA;173 Olive Green Yellowish (RGB): #71724a&#xA;174 Chrome Green Opaque (RGB): #738454&#xA;175 Sepia (RGB): #5d5556&#xA;176 Van Dyck Brown (RGB): #765e5b&#xA;177 Walnut Brown (RGB): #655051&#xA;178 Nougat (RGB): #947362&#xA;179 Bistre (RGB): #8f6745&#xA;180 Raw Umber (RGB): #a1713f&#xA;181 Payne's Gray (RGB): #5f6168&#xA;182 Brown Ochre (RGB): #af7a42&#xA;183 Light Yellow Ochre (RGB): #e0b536&#xA;184 Dark Naples Ochre (RGB): #f9e065&#xA;185 Naples Yellow (RGB): #fdee5e&#xA;186 Terracotta (RGB): #d69f6a&#xA;187 Burnt Ochre (RGB): #c6864f&#xA;188 Sanguine (RGB): #c55948&#xA;189 Cinnamon (RGB): #d59992&#xA;190 Venetian Red (RGB): #cb6361&#xA;191 Pompeian Red (RGB): #d35e70&#xA;192 Indian Red (RGB): #a54851&#xA;193 Burnt Carmine (RGB): #a24e6b&#xA;194 Red-Violet (RGB): #904a6a&#xA;199 Black (RGB): #4d4c51&#xA;205 Cadmium Yellow Lemon (RGB): #f6fe4c&#xA;217 Middle Cadmium Red (RGB): #c14149&#xA;219 Deep Scarlet Red (RGB): #d92c56&#xA;223 Deep Red (RGB): #de4f64&#xA;225 Dark Red (RGB): #b03d4c&#xA;226 Alizarin Crimson (RGB): #d42e64&#xA;230 Cold Gray I (RGB): #d4dbe5&#xA;231 Cold Gray II (RGB): #c8cfd8&#xA;232 Cold Gray III (RGB): #a0a8b2&#xA;233 Cold Gray IV (RGB): #97989d&#xA;234 Cold Gray U (RGB): #8d8f95&#xA;235 Cold Gray VI (RGB): #5d5e62&#xA;246 Prussian Blue (RGB): #216da6&#xA;247 Indanthrene Blue (RGB): #354491&#xA;249 Mauve (RGB): #6f49c2&#xA;250 Gold (RGB): #aba99f&#xA;251 Silver (RGB): #b4bbc9&#xA;252 Copper (RGB): #9e968f&#xA;263 Caput Mortuum Violet (RGB): #83515a&#xA;264 Dark Phthalo Green (RGB): #06a474&#xA;266 Permanent Green (RGB): #0b9a3c&#xA;267 Pine Green (RGB): #286d40&#xA;268 Green Gold (RGB): #c7a539&#xA;270 Warm Gray I (RGB): #d3d4d6&#xA;271 Warm Gray II (RGB): #c7c7c7&#xA;272 Warm Gray III (RGB): #a9a8a8&#xA;273 Warm Gray IV (RGB): #7d7b7c&#xA;274 Warm Gray V (RGB): #5c5a5d&#xA;275 Warm Gray VI (RGB): #444346&#xA;276 Chrome Oxide Green Fiery (RGB): #01a07c&#xA;278 Chrome Oxide Green (RGB): #395d43&#xA;280 Burnt Umber (RGB): #75554a&#xA;283 Burnt Sienna (RGB): #8d6356&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10111" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T21:49:40.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8817" CreationDate="2021-01-02T13:03:16.347" Score="5" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the Silhouette Cameo 4 desktop cutting machine a few days back and tried using the Cameo 4 with pepakura.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I followed the steps specified &lt;a href=&quot;https://tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/download/viewer_cut/how_to_use_viewer_with_cameo/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But when the machine cuts the line on the printed paper, the cut is a bit off of the printed line: it is not exactly on the printed line, but always slightly to the left of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing any configuration settings on the Cameo 4 or in Silhouette Studio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9703" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-05T08:04:38.307" LastActivityDate="2022-11-05T08:04:38.307" Title="Cameo 4 not cutting exactly on the printed line" Tags="|pepakura|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8819" CreationDate="2021-01-03T00:27:56.180" Score="3" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any eraser that can erase charcoal?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've been trying 3 different brands of kneaded erasers (Faber-Castell, Prismacolor, and an unknown brand) and nothing has happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-03T10:39:54.647" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T19:14:53.310" Title="Is there any eraser that can erase charcoal?" Tags="|charcoal|erasers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8795" CreationDate="2021-01-03T07:52:40.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a multi tool, the very point could be used as a awl as previously said, the part with the indentations to aply all sorts of compounds to the edge end last but not least the end portion resambles a burnishing tool. So its probably a &amp;quot;jack of all trades&amp;quot; tool as commonly found on those kits, its probably not the best for each feature but certainly can be a nice tool to have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10118" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T07:52:40.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8813" CreationDate="2021-01-03T14:34:47.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the comments you wrote that all cuts are always slightly left of the printed lines. That means the cutter uses a different 0-coordonate (the starting point of all measurements on the page) than the printer. This 0-coordinate is usually somewhere in the upper left corner of the page and the Cameo uses Registration Marks to mark that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to understand that the cutter cannot see the printed lines. Instead the coordinates of the lines are fed into the cutter via a seperate file. The cutter cuts along the coordinates in the file, irrelevant of what is printed on the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have a Cameo device, but even if I had one, I wouldn't be able to tell you exactly what configuration is incorrect in your setup. You'll have to check your configuration and find the error yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What paper size do you use? Is it A4 or US Letter or something else? Make sure you have the same paper size configured in Pepakura and in Silhouette Studio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Update the Cameo firmware. That's the software that runs on the Cameo device and people have reported that an update solves several issues. Go to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/firmware&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official homepage&lt;/a&gt; and follow the instructions there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the print settings in Pepakura (in the menu &amp;quot;Settings&amp;quot; -&amp;gt; &amp;quot;Print and Paper&amp;quot;). Make sure you selected the correct paper size. Set the margins to 15mm for the registration marks. Activate the option &amp;quot;Print lines smoothly&amp;quot; and set the transparency to 0%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a new version of the DFX cut file with the new settings in Pepakura. It could be that the cut file you used to cut the paper includes wrong coordinates. By creating a new file you can be sure that your current settings are reflected in the file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your settings in Silhouette Studio. Again, make sure you set the correct paper size. In the &amp;quot;Defaults&amp;quot; options activate &amp;quot;Registrations Marks On&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Cut to edge of page&amp;quot;. In &amp;quot;Import Options&amp;quot; activate &amp;quot;As Is&amp;quot;. Open the &amp;quot;Registration Marks&amp;quot; settings and set the Left, Right, Top and Bottom Inset to the lowest value possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Register your paper. There is a small black square printed on the paper, which is the Registration Mark. Once you placed the paper on the cutting mat, you have to move the cutting blade over this black mark before you can start cutting. Please read the manual on how to do this correctly. If you don't register the paper like that, the cuts can easily be off the way you describe in your question.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that still doesn't solve your problem, here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/8W5ROq03VsE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; that is somewhat lengthy but goes through all the important settings and steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T14:34:47.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-03T17:17:29.443" Score="4" ViewCount="3384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some custom vinyl decals (Oracal 651) which have already been applied.  The decals don't have any printing, they are just cutouts forming shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the process of cutting out the decals we used some regular clear tape to hold a paper template in place; but now we've noticed that the tape left a residue on the vinyl. (In hindsight using this tape was obviously a mistake.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to figure out how to remove the residue without harming the vinyl or causing it to lose its adhesion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The residue is slightly sticky to the touch, so it may pick up dirt over time. Its visible mainly because it has a flatter sheen than the vinyl which is glossy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decals have been applied to a plastic surface (not sure what type of plastic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9979" LastEditorUserId="9979" LastEditDate="2021-01-03T19:50:03.887" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T20:41:47.867" Title="Removing tape adhesive residue from vinyl decals?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8814" CreationDate="2021-01-03T19:14:53.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kneaded erasers are usually perfect for erasing charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when it comes to erasing charcoal, the success of kneaded erasers depends on a few factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The type of paper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've experienced problems erasing charcoal from papers with very low to no grain (this includes the typical A4 printer paper, on which it is hard to draw with anything to begin with).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Select proper paper when drawing with charcoal: a medium to heavy weight paper with a fine to coarse grain (the charcoal needs to be able to deposit particles within the structure, but the kneaded eraser equally needs to be able to pick it up from there). Anything smooth and flimsy is usually a subpar choice for charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The quality of the charcoal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Cheaper charcoal tends to have an inconsistent structure. If you use charcoal that deposits particles of varying size or at times doesn't leave a trace at all, stop using it and buy other charcoal (if from a reputable brand you might want to ask your money back).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These deficiencies are due to the quality of the burning process, and the type of wood and the part of the tree or plant used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The pressure applied when drawing with charcoal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When drawing with a piece of good quality charcoal on good quality paper, the lines produced should have a consistent hue. Get a feel for letting the charcoal stick glide over the paper, without consciously applying pressure. Depending on the technique and work method, only after the initial linework is done should pressure be applied to create different hues. Generally, the harder you push the charcoal, the harder it will be to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The condition of the eraser&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Lastly, of course, there is the eraser itself. For the best results, use a clean or well-kneaded eraser. Kneaded erasers become saturated when used, and at some point it might be hard for them to pick up anything at all.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I myself have not encountered &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt; kneaded erasers yet, but the quality could also differ between brands. There is a difference in how kneadable the one is in comparison to the other, but this is a matter of personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T19:14:53.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8818" CreationDate="2021-01-03T19:48:28.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for clarifying that the decals are only shapes with no printing.  Printed decals would be a bear to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vinyl surface will hold up pretty well to cleaning.  The main issue will be keeping the cleaner away from the edges of the decal.  Many cleaners will affect the adhesive at the edge, or even wick under the decal and affect more than just the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of things that should remove the residue.  There are adhesive removers like Goo Gone and similar products sold under other brand names.  WD-40 often works.  Rubbing alcohol sometimes works.  You can try limonene (sold as a solvent or citrus cleaner).  In a pinch, mineral oil or baby oil is likely to break down the residue so it can be wiped away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oily cleaners, like mineral or baby oil, Goo Gone, and WD-40, will leave an oily residue.  That can be removed with alcohol or soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem isn't removing the residue, it's avoiding the edge.  What is holding the decal down is probably adhesive that's similar to the residue you're trying to remove.  You'll need to use very little cleaner so there's no free liquid to run where you don't want it.  That includes if you need to clean off any oily residue after removing the sticky residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the decal is flat, position it so it's level and gravity isn't pulling cleaner toward an edge.  Don't apply any liquid directly.  Put a little on a cotton swab (don't saturate the swab), and spread it very thinly on the residue, avoiding the edge.  Give it a few minutes to attack the residue, then wipe it carefully so as not to get any on the edge.  Repeat as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this leaves residue along the edge of the decal, clean that in a similar fashion, but being very meticulous not to allow anything to go off the edge.  Move parallel to the edge, going just next to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any material, including softened residue, gets onto the seam of the decal, wipe it immediately.  If the cleaner is oily, immediately clean the seam area with a little soapy water on a swab and let it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, ensuring you don't affect the decal's attachment will turn a simple, quick task into a slow, meticulous one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're done cleaning, if there's any chance cleaner got on a seam, let everything dry for a day, then inspect the decal edges to see if anything looks questionable.  If you're at all worried that an edge may not be secure, you can seal the decal to the surface by coating it with a clear finish.  Something like Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic won't yellow.  Apply a light mist from different directions to get it against the seam.  Several light mists will seal the edge and smooth the transition so the decal is less likely to be snagged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T19:48:28.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8818" CreationDate="2021-01-03T20:41:47.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can use the same tape that left the residue behind to remove said residue. This requires that the decal sticks well to the surface and has no tiny parts that might come off if you pull on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply cut a strip of fresh tape long enough to wind around your finger. Hold it in a way that the sticky side faces away from your skin and the short edges cannot touch the decal. Dab your finger with the tape onto the residue and quickly pull it back away repeatedly. With some luck the residue sticks slightly more to the tape than to the decal. When the tape pulled some of the residue away, its sticking power is reduced and you need to replace it with a fresh piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T20:41:47.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8824" CreationDate="2021-01-03T22:02:19.403" Score="3" ViewCount="1619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a clear glass mug that I painted several years ago with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.michaels.com/msc-multisurface-satin-acrylic-craft-paint-2oz/M10198119.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Martha Stewart multi-surface craft paint&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to remove the paint as I am no longer in love with the design I made and might even consider re-painting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best way to remove this type of paint from glass?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the following instructions to set the paint on the mug:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bake-to-Cure Method&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow painted item to dry for 24 hours to be sure all layers of paint have dried.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place project in a cool oven, as the glass must heat gradually with the oven to avoid breakage; do not place glass in a hot oven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set oven temperature to 350ºF.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once temperature has reached 350ºF, allow the project to bake for 30 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 30 minutes, turn the oven off and let glass cool down completely before removing from the oven.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not use for 72 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Care Instructions&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Project can be Hand washed, or cleaned in the top&#xA;rack of a standard, non-commercial dishwasher. Do not use in&#xA;dishwasher if it has pot scrubbing features or top jets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint is permanent after air drying for 21 days or can be baked to expedite permanence.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Taken from PLAID FAQ &lt;a href=&quot;https://plaidonline.com/about/faqs/general/martha-stewart-glass-paint-curing-instructions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;What are the curing instructions for Martha Stewart glass and craft paint?&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T05:07:05.313" Title="How to remove oven baked acrylic paint from glass used for drinking?" Tags="|glass|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6124" CreationDate="2021-01-04T04:34:53.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For transparent colors I recommend using alcohol ink colors, they stay really transparent but depending on how many drops you add you can get a darker shade&#xA;Keep in mind adding too much of anything to 2 part epoxy may effect the curing process!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10142" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T04:34:53.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2021-01-04T05:07:05.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start with a razor blade and see if you can scrape it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't readily scrape off, go to chemicals (below are suggestions that work with dried acrylic paint; try one at a time, do not mix them).  The procedure for all of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover the painted area with several layers of paper towel saturated in the chemical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap that with plastic wrap and rubber bands to seal it against the glass and minimize evaporation (don't leave any of the paper towel exposed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set it on a surface that won't be affected by the chemical you're using (avoid wooden or painted or finished surfaces; plastic or glass is a safer bet).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use common sense and follow directions for personal safety (good ventilation, wear gloves and eye protection).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it soak under the paper towel for 30 minutes to an hour.  Then see if the paint has softened enough to wipe or scrape it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it doesn't seem to be affected, try again with another chemical.  If it helped but there is still residual paint, repeat the process (try a different chemical if the result is unimpressive).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First chemicals to try (the least nasty; pick one):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Household ammonia (full strength)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Isopropyl alcohol, 91% - 99% (may need to shop around for a drug store that carries it at this strength)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Denatured alcohol (available in the paint section of your hardware store)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goof Off (Pro Strength Remover or Paint Splatter Remover if varieties are available)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second (nastier) group (outside is better; away from open flames or sources of sparks); most of these are available in the paint section of your hardware store:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acetone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lacquer thinner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint stripper (one containing methylene chloride and/or methyl ethyl ketone [MEK] is likely to work well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mineral spirits / paint thinner is something you may have on hand.  I don't know how well it will work, but if you don't have any of the other chemicals, give it a try.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are &amp;quot;green&amp;quot; versions of some of these products; many of them water-based.  I don't know which of those will work on dried acrylic or how well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these chemicals will evaporate pretty fast.  Even with plastic wrap, the paper towel may start to dry out in less than 30-60 minutes, so check it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use any of these chemicals, clean the glass surface with alcohol and let it dry.  Then wash it with soapy water (running it through the dishwasher after the alcohol has dried is fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T05:07:05.313" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8844" CreationDate="2021-01-04T05:46:32.537" Score="2" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently drawing Wonder Woman with charcoal. While drawing I noticed that the armor has scratches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2v3XM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2v3XMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Artwork by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/shierly_arts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shierly Lin&lt;/a&gt;. Click for larger version&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's a charcoal drawing, I'm having difficulties, because when you use it, you blend it (I think, as it works for me), but the armor has a weird texture like if they drew it with pencils, not charcoal, I don't know if I'm being clear, I don't know how to draw that texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using 2-6B charcoal pencils and hard, medium, and soft charcoal sticks and graphite to make it smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I properly draw those details (scratches on the armor)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T08:13:28.053" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T17:06:48.567" Title="Drawing damaged leather using charcoal" Tags="|drawing|material-selection|charcoal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-04T16:57:37.020" Score="2" ViewCount="1911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been drawing Wonder Woman for quite a long time. Since she has a lot of bare skin, it's kinda hard to draw it without pencils, using only charcoal.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Here's the reference image I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2v3XM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2v3XMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Artwork by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/shierly_arts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shierly Lin&lt;/a&gt;. Click for larger version.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T18:04:53.030" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T18:04:53.030" Title="How do I blend charcoal enough to make it look like a skin surface?" Tags="|drawing|charcoal|blending|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2021-01-05T21:40:30.810" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8826" CreationDate="2021-01-04T21:18:06.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a charcoal artist, so this is more in the nature of observation and very general theory.  This question and your other one about drawing the scratches in the armor are about getting very fine and subtle texture, detail, and gradients using charcoal.  Charcoal is a relatively &amp;quot;crude&amp;quot; medium; this kind of life-like detail takes skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People who work with charcoal may be able to address media and technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to use size.  Think of a B&amp;amp;W laser printer.  It can create reasonable photographic images from just blobs of pitch-black toner by building the image from things that are tiny in relation to the size you see.  If a medium has poorer detail, darkness control, and gradients than you want for realism, its characteristics could be adequate if they are in smaller proportion to a larger picture.  The larger you make the picture, the easier it will be to create detail, shading, and smooth gradients in proportion to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, Joachim makes a good point in a comment.  Size can be a tool to get more realism from the medium and your skill with it.  But if your goal is to develop your skill, it wouldn't be helpful to use size as a &amp;quot;cheat&amp;quot; instead of developing the skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T11:38:15.887" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T11:38:15.887" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="248" CreationDate="2021-01-04T23:14:03.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! I got you!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you go to Walmart, or on the website, you can search for &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;fixative spray&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00023JE7U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or this), the fixative spray I'm talking about allows you to edit, this one isn't like those expen$ive ones, this one only costs &lt;strong&gt;$6&lt;/strong&gt;, that's actually the cheapest I have found today, I have it and I give it 5 stars, it's great! it actually prevents it from smudging and blending your charcoal or whatever you work with, the links are here: I really recommend it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; you don't have to buy a fixative spray, the substitute is &lt;strong&gt;hair spray&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-Workable-Fixatif-Spray-Coating-11-oz/20683596&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is the one I have!^^&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I hope this was helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T08:33:48.570" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T08:33:48.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8826" CreationDate="2021-01-05T01:42:02.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will probably need &lt;strong&gt;medium and soft charcoal&lt;/strong&gt; for creating smoothly blended surfaces (like her skin), and some &lt;strong&gt;hard charcoals&lt;/strong&gt; or perhaps even a &lt;strong&gt;carbon pencil&lt;/strong&gt; (which contains a mixture of charcoal and graphite) for the crisp textures of her armor and the fine lines of her hair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For blending, you may want to use a &lt;strong&gt;tortillion&lt;/strong&gt; or a &lt;strong&gt;blending stump&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;kneaded eraser&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJhVS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJhVS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tortillons and blending stumps&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rapidfireart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://rapidfireart.com/&lt;/a&gt; &amp;lt;-- also has many great tutorials on how to shade&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tortillons&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;blending stumps&lt;/strong&gt; are tightly rolled pieces of paper with a tapered tip. You can either buy them from an art store or make one yourself. They can be used with both pencil and charcoal, and they're better for blending than using your fingers, since your skin contains moisture and oils, which can cause the charcoal to clump to smear unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a thorough response describing how you can use a blending stump or tortillon for blending: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/532/how-do-i-get-a-blur-effect-in-pencil-drawings&quot;&gt;How do I get a blur effect in pencil drawings?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14pOU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14pOU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Kneaded eraser&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://thevirtualinstructor.com/blog/10-essential-drawing-materials-and-tools-for-beginners&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://thevirtualinstructor.com/blog/10-essential-drawing-materials-and-tools-for-beginners&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;kneaded eraser&lt;/strong&gt; is a soft, stretchy, gummy material that can be used for lifting, removing, and blending charcoal or pencil. Aside from removing &amp;quot;mistakes,&amp;quot; erasers are also great for blending. This video does a nice job of demonstrating some different techniques for using kneaded erasers with charcoal:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIAKBVfl_YU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIAKBVfl_YU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWVTf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWVTf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Strathmore charcoal paper&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://phoenixartsupplies.com/art-supplies/strathmore-500-series-charcoal-sheets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://phoenixartsupplies.com/art-supplies/strathmore-500-series-charcoal-sheets/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;strong&gt;paper&lt;/strong&gt; - there are many different types of paper out there for use with charcoal. You can usually find charcoal paper pads at art stores. You could draw on white paper, like the original pencil drawing. But if you have white charcoals (for drawing highlights), you could use toned paper. This can help make your subject &amp;quot;pop&amp;quot; off the page. For sketching and practicing, newsprint paper is a great (cheaper) alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some good resources for learning about types of charcoal paper and their characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://nitramcharcoal.com/selecting-perfect-paper-charcoal-drawing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://nitramcharcoal.com/selecting-perfect-paper-charcoal-drawing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artistsnetwork.com/art-mediums/drawing/best-paper-for-charcoal-drawing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.artistsnetwork.com/art-mediums/drawing/best-paper-for-charcoal-drawing/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps! Feel free to ask any questions. I'm not a professional artist, but I've had some experience with charcoals and pastels. If anyone else has additional tips, feel free to comment below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastEditorUserId="2335" LastEditDate="2021-01-05T01:52:21.200" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T01:52:21.200" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="528" CreationDate="2021-01-05T02:24:37.703" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's this thing called &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;fixative spray&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; this spray allows you to edit after spraying!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-Workable-Fixatif-Spray-Coating-11-oz/20683596&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this spray&lt;/a&gt; is the best, it protects your drawings from smudging. Hopes this helps, luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T20:23:40.857" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T20:23:40.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8690" CreationDate="2021-01-05T09:41:33.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some solutions in addition to the existing answers (that could prove useful for users facing a similar problem):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is viable, but this might be the easiest solution: you can invert the picture you want to print, and &lt;strong&gt;print everything &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; the marks on white paper&lt;/strong&gt;. You'll possibly have to tweak the margins (depending on the size/scale of the PDF), and - I believe - some printers are not able to print across the edges of the paper sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to &lt;strong&gt;get it done at a print shop&lt;/strong&gt;. This is likely more costly, but a lot less cumbersome, as professional printers will likely know how or have the equipment to perform the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A theoretical solution: &lt;strong&gt;directly after printing, distribute a white or otherwise light coloured powder&lt;/strong&gt; (chalk, flour, &amp;amp;c.) &lt;strong&gt;across the print&lt;/strong&gt;. The powder might adhere to the drying ink, and the rest will be easily blown away (depending on type of ink and paper - 'rich black' might yield better results). This likely works best on glossy (smoother) paper, as the ink will take longer to dry. The print settings can also be adjusted for this purpose, like setting it to a higher ink usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temporarily replace the black ink with another ink&lt;/strong&gt;, like user &lt;em&gt;blankip&lt;/em&gt; suggested. There are several alternative inks you can use instead of the black, and &lt;strong&gt;I'd recommend ones that have a high gloss&lt;/strong&gt;: silver, chrome, gold, and similar metallic hues, or even fluorescent if working in a dim environment is no game-breaker for you. These inks will be less obvious than an opaque white would be, but still fairly visible in the right light at the right angle, so that the print can be cut properly.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is completely dependent on the printer model and cartridges it uses, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T09:41:33.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8834" CreationDate="2021-01-05T12:45:25.183" Score="7" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought pieces of comics that are drawn with pencil, and I’m afraid that they get blurred. How can I preserve them? Can this be done the same way as with sketches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10166" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T07:54:24.080" LastActivityDate="2022-12-20T07:54:24.080" Title="How to preserve comic pages drawn by pencil?" Tags="|preservation|pencils|comics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8833" CreationDate="2021-01-05T22:11:08.340" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the community!&#xA;I don't know if you want to do this, but there's something called &amp;quot;fixative spray&amp;quot;.&#xA;In Walmart for $6 you can buy it, it's so effective, you can even edit after spraying.&#xA;Just let it rest after 1 hour and you'll be fine! That's the solution! the substitute is hairspray, that's a cheaper option, but you won't be able to edit again, just with the fixative. Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T22:11:08.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8845" CreationDate="2021-01-06T00:59:33.480" Score="4" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple bags of wall and ceiling texture that were left in the home that I purchased. I was curious if I could pour a slab of this and use it like the plaster we use in ceramics. I would hate for these bags to go to waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10167" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T19:27:28.283" Title="Can you use wall and ceiling texture as plaster slab for drying and wedging clay?" Tags="|ceramics|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-06T05:51:36.663" Score="5" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed out some sheet music and would like to combine the pages. Currently I use tape and I cut the margins out (I need to just rescale the pages). The taping is kind of a pain because if things are not lined up it creates minor problems (it probably would be better to tape one page then lay the next one on the tape, but I am butting them together then taping). Of course both sides need to be taped, but one side is not sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if there is a machine, device, or product that could be used for this that would work well? I do need it to fold for storage and probably plan on putting them in a binder when not in use. If there was a sort of dual end tape where the middle was not sticky then it would be pretty cool. It wouldn't solve many of the problems but would help with only having to tape one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10169" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T10:14:46.593" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T09:46:25.290" Title="A way to efficiently and effectively combine papers for musical scores" Tags="|paper|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3887" CreationDate="2021-01-06T06:01:46.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really unless you don't care about the longevity of your painting. Oil never truly dries (it's sort of like glass which is actually a liquid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With acrylic, an actual chemical change takes place as the polymer chains link up. The issue is that the acrylic will die and not be able to stick to the oil. It is not the acrylics' fault but the oil. Of course the longer you let the oil dry, the more solid the surface will become and the longer the acrylic will &amp;quot;stick&amp;quot; to it. Maybe after a century it might work. The issue is that there is nothing you can put on top of the oil to solve this problem because it too will have the same issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you might be able to use certain types of modified oils when painting but you already have the painting. Even if you painted over them you will have the problem. Maybe if you bake the painting that might help speed up the drying.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Ultimately though you can't win in any practical way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could paint epoxy over the entire painting so that even if the oil wasn't completely dry the epoxy layer would be one solid layer (assuming it's thick enough) which might have enough adhesion not to fall off... but then your painting will be extremely rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultimately, you can do a lot of things but you are risking ruining the painting and it's simply not worth it&lt;/strong&gt;. Just move on and don't waste any more time with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liveabout.com/best-water-mixable-oil-paints-4686958&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;water soluble oil paints&lt;/a&gt; but you are always going to have the same problem unless the original painting used these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10169" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T07:54:18.977" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T07:54:18.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8833" CreationDate="2021-01-06T07:25:27.563" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;not sure if that is the best option, but on dry chalk paints I use common/regular hair lack in rattle can.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;It does fix the last chalk layer enough, dries fast enough, and do not smell that much as synthetic lack I use for car repairs etc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As it dry really fast the next chalk layer can be made within seconds.&#xA;However repairs to previous layers are a bit hard.&#xA;Use higher weight, stiffer paper, like those for acrylic painting, and spray very lightly, no puddles of lack as it would warp the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2776" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T07:25:27.563" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8836" CreationDate="2021-01-06T07:40:08.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you need it to lie flat when open, and don't have access to a printer that will print double size pages (e.g. A3 if you normally use A4). If you do have such a printer it's easy - fold in half and use a long arm stapler or sewing machine in the crease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A comb binding machine would work well, giving you a book that lies nicely open. You can add, remove, and rearrange pages, and there's no tape. There is a margin needed at the seam though, so if you're joining the pages to get very long lines (which I've never seen in sheet music) this won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you can stop the residual exposed surface of tape being sticky by dusting it with talc after you've made the join. This will just brush off the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T07:40:08.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8602" CreationDate="2021-01-06T08:23:22.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wood is live material and unless you wrap it in something like hard lack deeply soaked into or acrylic resin, then it will wrap a bit here and there according to grain orientation.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;So it depends on what is your tolerance and how big warp is still OK for you.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As you plan to go with oil painting, I would stick to the oils not reinventing wheel.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Lighter the oil, deeper it penetrates, and it also depends on wood in panel and its hardness.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I like natural materials so as base layers and finish I'm using various combinations of linseed oil, Tung oil, turpentine or some thinner oils to lighten suspension so it soak to wood more easily and stays deeper once turpentine vaporize out. Bees wax, is good to more final layers as it let's you polish the wood to glossy surface, but as you are going to paint on it I'd stay away from wax based things in material prep/preservation phase. Tung oil is good for finals as well as it hardens over time. Camelia oil (camellia sinensis) in contrary do not almost dry, so I use it more for tool preservation. Might be useful, but panel might catch more dust over time. Linseed is fine, but in natural form it almost don't dry and so is sticky for weeks, boiled one dries quicker, but still in days and so is used in carpentry, commercial ones usually also contain a good chunk of desiccants to make it dry even faster, but I do not like those much. For interiors I like saflor oil, does not smell, it's light, could be purchased in food grade quality for stuff like wooden kitchenware.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So my favorite would be turpentine (or some lighter oil like grape oil) + linseed (that boiled but natural one) or saflor instead of linseed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2776" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T08:23:22.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8836" CreationDate="2021-01-06T09:12:58.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about a specific kind of tape like that, and I doubt it exists. Nevertheless, there are a few other options to (temporarily) keep your scores neatly stacked and usable in addition to Chris H's solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a &lt;strong&gt;(double) hole punch&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/44/Locher.gif/223px-Locher.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/44/Locher.gif/223px-Locher.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hole_punch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Align your papers at one of the corners, punch the holes, and tie your papers together using anything you fancy (I recommend screw posts, or, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;apparently&lt;/a&gt;, 'sex bolts' for sturdiness, but if you need to be able to read the music score while playing an instrument, a ribbon or rope might be preferred, as with the slack it offers the papers can easily be turned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;binder clips&lt;/strong&gt;, or a '&lt;strong&gt;bulldog clip&lt;/strong&gt;':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dz1Be.jpg?s=256&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dz1Be.jpg?s=256&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5Lt1.jpg?s=256&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5Lt1.jpg?s=256&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binder_clip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;                                                        &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulldog_clip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This option is good for a quick and easy way to keep your papers together. The clips will likely need to be removed when playing from the score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-09T09:46:25.290" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T09:46:25.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8564" CreationDate="2021-01-06T12:55:49.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe add info about how big &amp;quot;kite&amp;quot; you have in mind to your question.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As it might come like kid's version, less then 1 square meter and single thin rope or fishing line would be enough as it's power would not be enough to lift you off the ground.&lt;br&gt;Or it could be something like wing glider where there 4 ropes to fully control it, few square meters of the &amp;quot;sail&amp;quot;/surface and so it can drag or lift you with no problem. That's what came to my mind when you mentioned car wheel and I realized your idea of &amp;quot;kite&amp;quot; might be significantly different from mine.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Therefore solutions will differ for various sizes.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;For smaller kites I had in mind mentioned fishing lines, and they come on spool, so use that, make a U shaped holder for it on central axel protruding from holder. Then on bottom of the U you can add anchor point so you might use &amp;quot;panic&amp;quot; carabiner (those for horses) to attach the rope to your belt or use rock climbing harness. So you'll have it hands free, but in case of strong wind you'll not get dragged by kite and can disengage quickly via that panic-carabiner.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;then both sides of the axel might have cranking handles to roll the spool by both of your hands, or the axel might be hex for better grip and you can use some help from aku drill or similar tool to speed up rope/kite retrieval.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;That's the setup I have in mind for my next big kite. At the moment I'm rolling those fishing nylon lines manually and hold them in hand, but kites are small so I can handle them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unfortunately I have no idea about kite size where I would need to use wheel of my car to pull it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2776" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T12:55:49.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8825" CreationDate="2021-01-06T17:06:48.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Damage to the leather is just like any other detail. It is created by relief (changes in height) in the surface, so it is rendered the same. Just like the embossed areas of the leather, one side of the impression will capture light and the other will cast shadow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to draw scratches etc., you would use light edges and dark edges along the contour of the scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as specifically using charcoal versus pencil that is a stylistic choice. If the charcoal medium does not deliver the look you want, then you would probably want to stick with pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T17:06:48.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8835" CreationDate="2021-01-06T19:27:28.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The texture powder is very different from plaster.  Plaster changes its chemical form all the way through to become a solid mass of material.  It hardens while it's wet and then dries out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably differences in formulation for different texture powders, but a common commercial formulation is mainly finely crushed limestone that makes up the bulk of the material.  It has a small amount of a clay that gels to give it a workable consistency that will hold a shape, and a small amount of starch as a binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the mixture is basically mineral powder that's held together only by a small amount of binder that is soluble in water.  Both the starch and clay will lose their ability to hold stuff together when they get wet.  It's stable enough to take latex paint without falling apart, but it won't hold up to being wet for any length of time.  Also, once it gets wet and starts to fall apart, drying it won't give it back whatever strength it had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It hardens initially by drying out.  It's designed to be a thin layer.  If you were to create a thick slab of it, it would take a very long time to dry all the way through, and wouldn't have any strength until it's fully dry.  If you wanted to make a slab of it, the practical way would be to build it up in thin layers, letting each layer dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if the alternative is discarding it, you might as well experiment.  You could try to use it to reduce the amount of plaster.  Trying to mix more than a small amount of texture mix into the plaster would degrade the plaster.  But you could create a thin slab of it (in layers), and then put a thinner than normal slab of plaster on top.  The plaster might keep the texture layers from getting too wet.  The plaster might not bond well to the texture slab, though, so they could separate with hard use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plaster is pretty inexpensive stuff.  You are likely to waste more money in other materials experimenting than the cost of the plaster that the texture powder would replace.  If the texture powder packages are still in new condition, and discarding them would bother you, a suggestion: some big hardware chains will let you &amp;quot;return&amp;quot; it for a store credit long after the normal return period, and without a receipt, if they can restock it (it means they order a little less from their supplier, and you will buy something else in the store).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T19:27:28.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3451" CreationDate="2021-01-06T20:35:53.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer using two pairs of &amp;quot;extra slim&amp;quot; bent chain nose pliers like the ones in this pic. The ones in the pic aren't mine, mine look much the worse for wear. If I'm working with softer metals, or with galvanised wire where the surface coating can be scratched or damaged, I paint the flat surface with a few layers of nail varnish to cushion things a bit, making it less likely to damage the wire or surface coating. Afterwards I just clean it off with acetone.  If I'm in a hurry to get to work, I sometimes tape electrical insulation tape around the tips instead of waiting for the nail varnish to dry, but it doesn't last as long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GajER.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastEditorUserId="9490" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T22:48:24.167" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T22:48:24.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8849" CreationDate="2021-01-07T17:56:33.420" Score="0" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I painted on top of a hair clip using acrylic paints. It looks nice but not as nice as store bought hair clips. I'm looking for a glossy finish that would make it look nice and also protect from indents and notches.&#xA;Not sure if using canvas varnish would be the right thing.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3fFN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3fFN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is the image of the hair clip I painted upon. I'm  complete beginner haha&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10175" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T18:18:34.817" Title="How do I get a perfect finish to hair clips painted with acrylic paint?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|varnish|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1785" CreationDate="2021-01-07T18:16:13.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a fixative, as described in previous answers here, is a standard way of protecting one's own work. On an acquired piece, you're free to do whatever you want with your own property. However, it would likely negatively affect the market value or historical value of the piece. On a valuable or historical work, fixative might be viewed similar to &amp;quot;vandalism&amp;quot; since it changes the nature and likely the appearance of the work from what the artist created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acquired works should be stored in acid-free archival quality flat files between layers of special paper or else professionally framed behind glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-07T19:04:24.657" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T19:04:24.657" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-01-07T18:16:13.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8847" CreationDate="2021-01-08T18:18:34.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A transparent protective layer would be ideal. I propose acryllic based coatings because they bond well with the painting and are soft enough to not chip away when bumped into. They are also elastic enough to not indent permanently, unless you have a go at them with a sharp object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glossy acryllic varnish or Mod Podge are ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of slapping a single, thick coat on the hair clip, you should apply several thin coats and let each coat dry completely. 4 or more thin coats, applied evenly with a soft and wide brush give you a better result than 1 or 2 thick coats. To avoid enclosing dust an other particles in the varnish, put the object under a cover like a plastic box to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T18:18:34.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8833" CreationDate="2021-01-08T22:10:24.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to preserve pencil drawings.  This question is explicit in distinguishing that the drawings were purchased, which introduces another consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common way to preserve pencil drawings is with a fixative.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/1785/how-can-i-protect-my-pencil-charcoal-drawings-once-complete&quot;&gt;How can I protect my pencil &amp;amp; charcoal drawings once complete?&lt;/a&gt; goes into recommendations and discussion on that approach.  A fixative works to protect it, but it modifies the surface, and can change the appearance a little.  For acquired works, the fixative would be something the original artist did not apply, and would be an alteration of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to keep the work for its value to you, protect it any way you like. But if investment/resale value is a consideration, or it's a historical work, your applying a fixative to it could seriously degrade its value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, a better way to preserve it is to either store it in acid-free, archival quality flat files between layers of glassine paper, or have it professionally framed behind (UV-resistant) glass so it can be displayed and enjoyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, plastic sleeves were also suggested as a means of protection, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/users/2731/allison-c&quot;&gt;Allison C&lt;/a&gt; advised that smudging can result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a summary of the comments (primarily by &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/users/416/rebusb&quot;&gt;rebusB&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/users/30/erica&quot;&gt;Erica&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/users/9490/gwyn&quot;&gt;Gwyn&lt;/a&gt;) from within this thread and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/118172/discussion-on-question-by-blanc-how-to-preserve-comic-pages-drawn-by-pencil&quot;&gt;linked chat discussion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-09T09:13:15.283" LastActivityDate="2021-01-09T09:13:15.283" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2021-01-08T22:10:24.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-10T18:14:06.067" Score="0" ViewCount="1566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering purchasing a custom pillow and the poly poplin is much cheaper than the cotton poplin. Since it's online I'm am wondering how noticeable the difference is. I am also wondering if poplin has a shine to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10194" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T06:34:03.467" Title="What is the difference between poly poplin fabric and cotton poplin fabric?" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8852" CreationDate="2021-01-10T18:40:35.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference is that one is made of 'poly' (likely polyester) and the other is made of cotton.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;How notable the difference is depend on how the poplin is made and how they handled the threads from which they made the fabric and the fabric once made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly man made fibers are more smooth and shiny but it is not a given.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I own a bag made from recycled pet bottles and when you see it you would say it is rough cotton. I own fine cotton fabric which is shiny and smooth like polyester in the way it looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cotton mostly feels better to the skin, not as likely to make you skin sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So best go with the descriptions and pictures on the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T18:40:35.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8852" CreationDate="2021-01-11T06:34:03.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The name of the fabric consists of 2 parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the fibre&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the weave&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Poly&amp;quot; / &amp;quot;cotton&amp;quot; is the name of the fibre that is contained in the fabric. Cotton is a natural fibre commonly found in clothing. The name &amp;quot;poly&amp;quot; is very ambigious, because there are many different fibres with that name, like polyester, polyacrylic, polypropylene, and many more. All of them are artificial fibres and have slightly different properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poplin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Poplin&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; is the name of the weave. It's a very basic over-under weave with vertical ribs. It's somewhat resistant to wrinkling. Depending on the fibre it can have a very smooth and shiny finish or an even and matte one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use the pillow to lay your head on it, I suggest the cotton because it's more comfortable in direct skin contact. Cotton can absorb moisture like sweat and can be washed at high temperatures. If it's a decorative pillow or mainly used to prop up your back (no direct skin contact), you can go with the poly option. Poly fabrics are resistant to damage (for example by pets), but have a tendency to pick up bad odors and feel sweaty in direct skin contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T06:34:03.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8862" CreationDate="2021-01-11T11:34:14.993" Score="8" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of small wooden boxes with metal inlay that I would like to restore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood was originally black and the metal silver in colour, but the black has faded and the metal has corroded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can anyone help me with how to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the copper oxide without further damaging the wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stain the wood black again without staining the metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it as simple as rubbing the metal with something acidic, restaining the wood and then polishing the stain off the metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGtpW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGtpW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pz6zg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pz6zg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10197" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T04:55:32.030" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T04:55:32.030" Title="Restoring a wooden box with metal inlay" Tags="|wood|metal|restoration|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-12T17:03:20.320" Score="2" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I very much like this kind of pattern and I would like to recreate it or buy fabric which already has this pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMyuU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMyuU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oB0Nb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oB0Nb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to see the pattern at different angles then you can find more photos &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.stylenanda.com/product/self-belt-hooded-quilted-coat/243405/?cate_no=51&amp;amp;display_group=1&amp;amp;crema-widget-share-review-translation=on&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is this kind of pattern called?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where could I purchase fabric which already has this pattern? (I’m from England  , U.K.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you know of any resources which teach how to sew this pattern into fabric?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I’m a beginner in creating clothes but am I correct to say this is a type of quilting pattern?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10204" LastEditorUserId="10204" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T18:51:03.123" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T20:41:32.350" Title="What is the following pattern called?" Tags="|pattern-drafting|quilting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8860" CreationDate="2021-01-12T19:37:24.190" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quilting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;quilted&lt;/a&gt; pattern. Quilting refers to the process sewing three layers of fabric together, usually two layers of woven cloth on the outside, with a layer of insulation sandwiched in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can absolutely buy quilted fabric. Any sewing supplier with a large selection of fabric should have some, but usually not a huge selection. You might find some in the &amp;quot;home décor&amp;quot; section of the store as well as in garment fabrics. You can also sometimes get &amp;quot;quilted insulation&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;quilted batting,&amp;quot; which is quilt batting / insulation with fabric only on one side of it. You can use it as the lining for another garment, but the quilting pattern would only be visible one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bedspreads are often made of quilted fabric; in fact the specific stitch pattern in your example is exactly the same as a quilted bedcover I had years ago. So if you don't find what you're looking for as &amp;quot;by the yard&amp;quot; fabric, have a look at premade bedspreads. In fact, it can sometimes be less expensive to buy a finished item than fabric by the yard. (Why? Ask an economist.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the actual fabric material, that looks to me like a synthetic fiber. The fabric might be rayon or nylon. Ideally you would want to go to a fabric store, feel the fabrics and talk to a salesperson about which fabrics would work best for a coat. Second-best would be talking to someone on the phone, at a store dedicated to selling fabric for sewing, so they really know how to advice you on what fabric would be best for a given purpose. If you have to buy online, look for fabrics that are specifically intended for outer garments. The main concern is that you buy something that looks great in a photo, but that isn't actually sturdy enough to hold up as an outer garment. However you buy your fabric, you'll get the best advice about specific products from a store that's dedicated to selling fabric and sewing supplies, rather than a more general &amp;quot;arts and crafts&amp;quot; store. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2013/jun/11/top-ten-fabric-shops-uk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This list in The Guardian&lt;/a&gt; of &amp;quot;Top ten fabric shops in the UK&amp;quot; might be a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you quilt your own fabric, it's important that the fabric layers are densely woven enough to hold in the insulation. If you make a quilt with loosely woven fabric, the insulation will work its way out over time, creating unsightly &amp;quot;pills&amp;quot; on the outside. Outdoor DIY gear suppliers usually sell both fabrics and insulating layers, and they usually provide guidelines on which combinations will work together. A few of my favorite suppliers of materials for making my own outdoor gear are: &lt;a href=&quot;https://ripstopbytheroll.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ripstopbytheroll.com&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.therainshed.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;therainshed.com&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://diygearsupply.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;diygearsupply.com&lt;/a&gt;. Sorry, I have no idea if any of them ship from within the UK. Note that if you start with a waterproof outer layer of fabric, then quilt it, it stops being waterproof because you just punched a bunch of holes in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making your own quilted fabric will take at least as long as sewing a jacket out of it. If that doesn't sound like fun to you, I definitely recommend just buying premade quilted fabric. If you want to make your own quilted fabric, keep reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to make quilted fabric&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a short summary. As with most hobbies the additional information that exists could fill a small library. I include a few links to more references at the end. Quilting as a hobby has been popular for centuries, so your local library surely has a few books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two layers of woven fabric - these can be the same fabric or different&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a layer of quilt batting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;large safety pins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a sewing machine, or a quilting hoop and a hand sewing needle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a fabric marking pencil (or other fabric marking method; more details below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get your two layers of woven fabric. As with most sewing projects, before you begin the fabric should be washed, selvedges trimmed off, and ironed. Get a piece of batting the same size (don't pre-wash it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lay the bottom layer of fabric out flat, with the &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; side facing down. The &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; side is whichever side of the fabric you want visible; the other side will be hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lay the batting on top, smoothing out any wrinkles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lay the top layer of fabric on top, with the good side facing up. Again, smooth out any wrinkles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tack_(sewing)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tack&lt;/a&gt; the three layers together at regular intervals. The point is to secure the layers so they will stay in place when you move the quilt to sew it together. Large safety pins work well for this - they actually make special quilting safety pins that are bent, which lets you more easily put then into the fabric. Regular pins aren't a great idea - some will fall out, and you'll stab yourself a lot as you manipulate the quilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Optional) Mark your stitch pattern on the top of the quilt. Make sure whatever you use to mark the pattern is 100% removable. Quilting suppliers sell a wide variety of supplies for this, and there are lots of DIY methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To draw the design freehand, a scrap of white bar soap or a piece of &lt;em&gt;white&lt;/em&gt; chalk works okay for a few marks, but if you're doing a lot of marking a fabric marking pencil is worth the few dollars it will cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can draw the design freehand or use a stencil. You can buy premade stencils or make your own. Premade stencils come in a huge variety of designs, from simple to very intricate. For a simple design like in your example, I would make my own by cutting a wavy edge on a long piece of cardboard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A stencil with lines cut out of it (as opposed to a simple edge-trace stencil) allows you to mark the fabric by just wiping chalk powder over the stencil. Brand names include &amp;quot;Miracle Chalk&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Pounce Pad.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy a fabric marking tool like the pencils or dust pads I mentioned, read the reviews and be sure to get one that's easy to remove. White chalk fabric pencils or marking dust tends to come out fairly well, but blue or other colors of chalk have a reputation staining the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fold or roll up the pre-quilt from both edges, leaving the middle unfolded and exposed. Working from the middle of the quilt out to the edge, use a straight stitch to sewing along the marked lines (if you marked them) or freehand sew it. There are a lot of tips and tricks that will help you do this smoothly and efficiently, so instead of trying to list them all here, I made a list of references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quilting on a home sewing machine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.generations-quilt-patterns.com/how-to-machine-quilt.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.generations-quilt-patterns.com/how-to-machine-quilt.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://suzyquilts.com/how-to-machine-quilt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://suzyquilts.com/how-to-machine-quilt/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.diaryofaquilter.com/2019/03/how-to-plan-your-quilting-from-christa-watson.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.diaryofaquilter.com/2019/03/how-to-plan-your-quilting-from-christa-watson.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quilting by hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://suzyquilts.com/how-to-hand-quilt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://suzyquilts.com/how-to-hand-quilt/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thimblelady.com/hand-quilting/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thimblelady.com/hand-quilting/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you want more references or these links go dead, useful search terms include &amp;quot;machine quilting&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;sew a quilt on a home sewing machine&amp;quot; (if you're using a sewing machine) or &amp;quot;hand quilting&amp;quot; (if you're sewing by hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also, that many people who make piecework quilts will either send out their assembled quilt to be professionally quilted, or they will rent time on a long arm sewing machine at their local quilting supply store. Quilting by hand or on a home sewing machine is just not everyone's cup of tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Offset Wavy Line Top Stitch Pattern&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual top stitch pattern in your example is just made of wavy lines, with each wavy line offset from the one next to it, so the bottom of one &amp;quot;wave&amp;quot; almost lines up with the top of the &amp;quot;wave&amp;quot; in the adjacent line. It's such a basic design I couldn't find a name for it, even though I'm sure it has one. I made these outlines in Microsoft Paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To draw it, make a stencil with a wavy edge, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kdMqT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kdMqT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stencil one wavy line, then add a second wavy line offset, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywN1g.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywN1g.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continue adding wavy lines until you hit the edge of the fabric. Notice how the &amp;quot;onion bulb&amp;quot; shape appears as you add more repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0SV0.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0SV0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of practice, you could probably sew this design freehand. You might want to mark out a grid on your fabric to keep your midlines parallel and your peaks and valleys lined up, but you could do that by placing your safety pins in a grid pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip: Curves are difficult to sew. Straight lines are much easier. If you're not wedded to this specific stitch pattern, consider using a simple diamond grid pattern. You don't even need a stencil for this one, just a ruler and long straightedge. Use the ruler to draw evenly spaced  marks along one edge. Draw marks along the adjacent edge, using the same spacing. Use the straightedge to draw lines connecting connect those marks. Repeat for the other two sides. Using the same spacing on both sets of sides will give you 45 degree oriented square diamonds. Using different spacing on each set will give you different angled diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;45 degree diamond grid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKZ7l.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKZ7l.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://incompetech.com/graphpaper/axonometric/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60 degree diamond grid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5cMNg.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5cMNg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://incompetech.com/graphpaper/diamond/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastEditorUserId="8690" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T20:41:32.350" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T20:41:32.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8855" CreationDate="2021-01-13T03:27:47.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me start with a disclaimer.  If it was my box, I wouldn't try to restore it.  There's a good chance of turning it into a mess.  Right now, it shows the character of age.  Trying to restore it could leave you with something very unattractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wood seems bare, but if it had any kind of sealer (possibly including the stain), you will end up with a blotchy finish if you don't sand it first.  It would be tough to sand it without damaging the sheet metal, which looks like it isn't removable without damaging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sheet metal has any kind of protective finish, the results will be blotchy.  If it has a copper patina, it's likely solid copper sheet.  If there are irregular small blotches of dark patina that aren't consistent with natural sources like finger prints, that would suggest that there might be a protective finish (or it could have been something in contact with the metal at those spots).  The proper way to restore it would be to first strip any potential finish or coating, but it isn't very practical to do that without removing the metal.  So you will be taking a chance with any kind of cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a potential for creating a mess on the wood from what you do on the metal, and on the metal from what you do on the wood.  It's risky to do this kind of stuff after the fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would advise against trying to restore it, but I'll provide some tips and ideas on doing it if you're set on doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove parts that can be easily removed without damage so you can access the surface of the box unobstructed and work on the removed parts without messing up the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do meticulous masking.  Seal off the metal when you work on the wood, and the wood when you work on the metal.  Regular painters tape isn't good enough.  I would put down an edge strip of something like rubber cement to seal the surface, then something like FrogTape, which blocks water-based materials from getting past the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the filigree had been a surface decoration, you'd be out of luck.  Since it's the edge of embedded metal, it theoretically would allow you to re-stain the wood.  But it won't be as simple as slapping on some stain and wiping it off.  The stain will soil the metal, and cleaning it off the metal will mess up the stain on the surrounding wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to apply stain and wipe it off while it's still wet, and see how cleanly it comes off the metal.  You may need to employ a procedure like using a penetrating stain, letting it soak in deeply and dry, then lightly sanding the surface with extremely fine grit sandpaper.  You could also try using a tiny brush to apply the stain around the filigree, being careful to avoid the metal (a very slow process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning copper isn't the problem.  The problem is keeping it that way.  Copper starts to oxidize as soon as you stop cleaning it.  Cleaning dissolves the oxidation, and leaves a microscopically rough surface with a lot more surface area.  So every time you clean it, it oxidizes faster.  And every time you clean it, you remove some of the copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many weak acids will remove copper oxidation.  Lemon juice, orange juice, or vinegar are popular.  People use tomato sauce or ketchup (the tomatoes are a little acidic; ketchup also contains a little vinegar).  Commercial cleaners often use citric acid.  For heavy oxidation, people add salt, or use a baking soda paste as a mild abrasive.  You can mix the acid with a little flour to make a paste that you can apply and let it sit for awhile.  There's an interesting comparison of the effectiveness of various popular mixtures: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.everbritecoatings.com/copper_cleaner.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Compare Home Made Copper Cleaners&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial products may clean copper faster, but that's not necessarily a good thing.  They do it by using stronger, more aggressive acid, which will lead to a need to re-clean sooner.  Some also contain a chemical used to purposely create patina.  I'm guessing that's in there to create the need to use the product more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't protect the metal, it probably doesn't make sense to clean it.  You can coat it with oil (which will also be good for the wood), so you can do the whole box.  If you use a permanent finish, it will need to be something impervious to air and moisture.  If any air or moisture gets through, the copper will oxidize under the finish, and the finish will make it all that much more difficult to clean it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need to restore everything to it's original appearance.  You can do things to merely improve how it looks now.  For example, touch up the most worn areas of the wood to be consistent with the rest, or restore only the aspect that bothers you the most or is the least risky.  It may improve things just to clean the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, it's sufficient to just make things more uniform.  For example, the wood has some dark blotches.  Rather than staining all the wood, you may be able to lighten the blotches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T07:36:00.610" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T07:36:00.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8866" CreationDate="2021-01-14T23:17:07.147" Score="6" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;ShapeCrete (now discontinued) and SculptCrete (which has less videos) are marketed as concrete that works like clay, but sometimes it is used in a wetter gel-like consistency, as seen in the Shapecrete.com videos &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapecrete.com/projects/tissue-house&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;.  Why is this middle-ground gel consistency used instead of a wetter, pourable mix of SculptCrete, a drier clay-like mix of SculptCrete, or another more standard concrete product?  By &amp;quot;why&amp;quot;, I mean both workability reasons and final result reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10085" LastEditorUserId="10587" LastEditDate="2021-03-07T16:41:05.767" LastActivityDate="2021-03-07T16:41:05.767" Title="Using SculptCrete/ShapeCrete in a gel-like form?" Tags="|concrete|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8865" CreationDate="2021-01-15T01:55:22.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both ShapeCrete and SculptCrete (and similar products), are cement-based mixtures that are designed to be used in several ways, including molding it like clay.  To achieve the clay-like handling and ability to hold fine detail, everything in the mixture has a very small particle size, and they may contain some additives (like clays).  If you mix them with the enough water to create a pourable consistency, they can be poured into a mold like regular concrete.  If you use less water to create a very firm mix, it handles like clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the video you linked to, the ShapeCrete people wanted to use the material to replicate a house-shaped tissue box.  This was a novelty item -- a plastic shell in the shape of a house that fit over a tissue box, and the tissues were dispensed out of the chimney.  The goal was a thin-walled replica of that hollow plastic shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pourable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use ShapeCrete (or almost any cement product), in its pourable form to create a thin-walled replica, they couldn't just plug the chimney and fill that plastic shell as a mold.  That would produce a solid block of cement in the shape of the house.  They would have had to create an inner mold, nest the two, and pour the material between them.  That's a lot of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a method called rotocasting that creates a thin shell on the inside of a mold.  With something like resin, you can pour a little into the mold, and then keep rotating and reorienting the mold to coat the whole inside and keep it a uniform thickness until the resin sets up.  With cement-based materials, continually moving and mixing it is the way you keep it liquefied, so it doesn't lend itself to exactly that procedure.  With molds of certain shapes, you can spin the form at high speed so centrifugal force holds the cement in a uniform shell until it sets up (a house shape isn't one of those).  You can also use a mold material that absorbs water to pull water out of the cement so it doesn't slump, and build up a shell in thin layers.  That doesn't work with a plastic mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small particle size and additives of this kind of material give it some strength in a thin shell.  The particle size also results in a smoother, more clay-like surface texture than normal concrete, with the ability to hold fine surface detail.  Pouring it into a mold is likely to result in some surface bubbles (which, from a previous question, you happen to want).  If you didn't want them, they can be reduced with gentle blending to avoid mixing in air, and vibrating the mold to help them rise to the top (which is typically not the exposed face).  There are also chemicals that can be added to reduce bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clay&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical way to use ShapeCrete like clay would be to roll it out into a sheet of the desired wall thickness, accurately cut out sections to match the inside surfaces of the house, lay the sections in place, and work the seams to join them.  That's a lot of work.  Some effort could be saved by using strategically larger pieces, even a single large piece, that get pressed into the mold and formed in place.  A thin plastic mold like that tissue box wouldn't hold up to a lot of replications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working from a clay consistency will produce even stronger results, the material will be more tightly compacted.  The surface texture will be similar to clay, and without the bubbles associated with pourable cement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cement/Sand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cement/sand mix is commonly used for cement sculpting.  It's a relatively dry, granular mixture that's a little more moldable than wet beach sand that you might use to make a sand castle.  It could be pressed into a thin shell around the inside of the mold, requiring none of the preparation described in the previous alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was any fine, shallow surface detail in the mold (not likely on the inside of a tissue box), it wouldn't pick it up because the material is too coarse.  The cement walls would also need a reasonable thickness; something cardboard-thick wouldn't hold up to handling.  The surface texture will be grainy, like concrete, but without bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's where the gel consistency comes in, and the use-case they were demonstrating in that video.  It provides the benefit of cement/sand in that it saves all of the preparation needed for pourable or clay consistencies for this type of application, and also provides the benefits inherent in the material of strength and the ability to capture detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material can be mixed with an intermediate amount of water to create a consistency half-way between pourable and clay.  It's just solid enough for you to be able to handle a blob of it, form a simple shape that you can hold in your hand, and for it to stay where you put it without slumping.  It is used like the cement/sand mix described previously -- you put blobs of it into the mold and smear and press it around into a thin shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material is strong enough for a pretty thin shell to hold up to handling.  The small particle size will produce a smooth, clay-like surface texture, which will pick up and retain fine detail.  As can be seen from the various videos on the ShapeCrete web site, at least one result had some surface bubbles, but most did not.  So it appears that the gel consistency is in a gray area on the edge of being pourable, where small differences in water content and/or handling could result in it having some surface bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T18:07:45.353" LastActivityDate="2021-01-15T18:07:45.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8870" CreationDate="2021-01-15T14:31:58.790" Score="4" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm at school, and my days are busy, I can't draw and do homework at the same time, and my greatest fear is that I lose my drawing skills since I'm looking for scholarships. I mainly work with charcoal.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Any tips on how I can maintain my skills?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T18:54:23.020" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T13:30:31.893" Title="Maintaining/improving drawing skills without having the time to draw" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8879" CreationDate="2021-01-15T18:26:35.877" Score="5" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I identify paper that's good for charcoal?  By &amp;quot;good&amp;quot;, I'm referring to characteristics like how charcoal behaves on it, how fixative applies to the paper, durability, yellowing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a teenager, so currently I have no money; good &amp;quot;budget&amp;quot; paper is more relevant right now than expensive &amp;quot;best&amp;quot; paper.  I'm using these big sheets of paper, the brand is &amp;quot;Soho Studio&amp;quot;.  I've heard reviews of good brands that turned out not to be that good, so it would be valuable to get input based on people's actual experience (along with some context of what were the objectives/expectations, and what made the recommended paper particularly good for that purpose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T19:01:24.693" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T18:50:14.427" Title="How do I identify good quality paper for charcoal drawing?" Tags="|paper|charcoal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8867" CreationDate="2021-01-15T18:57:22.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following exercises can be done with most writing or drawing utensils while focusing on other things. They will train your imagination, and will maintain your hand-eye coordination and finger and hand movements involved with drawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take your utensil of choice, find an even and blank surface and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doodle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;doodle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This can be done while listening to lectures or podcasts, and could even help you concentrate better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Write differently&lt;/strong&gt;. Instead of your regular handwriting, experiment with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Handwriting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;other types&lt;/a&gt;. Try writing in cursive, mirrored, with your other hand, or only using capitals, &amp;amp;c.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is easy to do while doing your homework or taking notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following things can be done in the margins of your (note)books, or on small pieces of paper you happen to carry, like receipts. They will need temporary attention, however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do &lt;strong&gt;small exercises&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, experiment with different kinds of hatching, try giving simple forms (spheres, cubes, pyramids, blobs) a convincing apparent three-dimensionality, combine different colours to see how they interact, or draw only residual shapes (the shapes between objects), &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make &lt;strong&gt;quick sketches&lt;/strong&gt; of objects around you. Limit the time you spent on a single drawing. Try to alternate what you focus on: shading, proportions, volume, contrast, composition, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hang up a single or a few sketches&lt;/strong&gt; by (old) masters (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Drawings_by_Annibale_Carracci&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Annibale Carracci&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Drawings_by_Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Albrecht Dürer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Francisco_de_Goya&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Francisco de Goya&lt;/a&gt;) where it is that you study, and observe these whenever you feel like you can use a short break from your homework or studying.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Pay attention to the lines: the accuracy and swiftness with which they were put on paper, the changes in their thickness and what they signify. Analyze the hatching, and how those lines relate to each other and to the contours of the object drawn. This will hone your observational skills, enhance your knowledge of drawing, and likely increase your urge to draw (which is either a good or a bad thing in this situation :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T10:52:02.477" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T10:52:02.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8872" CreationDate="2021-01-15T19:47:30.500" Score="4" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm opening new paint tubes for watercolors, and about 50% of the time, the paint starts gushing out slowly. I then hear a few pops. This would be okay if it only happens once when I open the bottle. I opened the black paint tube yesterday, no gushing whatsoever. Today I open it, and the entire inside of the lid and screw threads on the tube are completely submerged in black paint, and there's a worm of paint slowly making its way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen, and is there any way to prevent or stop it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10238" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-15T21:36:31.223" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T18:44:55.753" Title="Why are there air bubbles in my tubes of watercolor paint?" Tags="|paint|watercolor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8871" CreationDate="2021-01-15T21:35:56.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Initially, the gushing of the paint is due to the small amount of water that generally is part of the product's formula. This quote from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/pigmt1.html#water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;handprint.com&lt;/a&gt; explains the reason and effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paints are manufactured with excess water in the vehicle, as this reduces the viscosity of the vehicle and decreases the amount of time (labor) and electrical energy necessary to mill the paint. This water mostly lost through evaporation during milling, but also after milling when the paint is left to sit and age or stabilize. &lt;strong&gt;Some pigments or fillers absorb water very slowly, causing them to expand&lt;/strong&gt;: these are the paints that &amp;quot;explode&amp;quot; or squirt from the tube when it is first opened, because they were not aged adequately before packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of water involved varies from pigment to pigment (some need more grinding or more aging), and brand to brand (due to production techniques).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would ascribe the air bubbles to an unsophisticated production process, though, in which the tube is not completely filled or improperly sealed.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Oxygen could have formed due to ongoing chemical processes inside the tube, but that should also have been considered before packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for subsequent - and erratic - eruptions, apart from pressing the tube by hand when opening it, which can be avoided, I think this can only be ascribed to changes in atmospheric conditions: temperature or air pressure, of which the first seems the most likely culprit: a rise in temperature would increase the pressure inside the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be thorough: I don't suppose the tube was stored somewhere where something could have been (temporarily) put on top of it, or where someone could have 'played' with it? That would make for an obvious cause as well :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: always open tubes above your palette so whatever comes out can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T18:44:55.753" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T18:44:55.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8867" CreationDate="2021-01-16T10:14:05.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have time, do a proper piece of art. Spend as long on it as you have the time and put it to the side when you run out of time and not finished yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for those days you do not have the time, do a quick 10 minute bit.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It can be in a small book of (proper) sheets and finish one drawing per 10 minutes, fix them properly the next time you have a minute and turn the next page open for the next day. You may need a couple of books if you can not protect the charcoal every day.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or have on big sheet ready for work and do a small section with a small drawing each day.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you look at the work of the main masters you will see that a lot of them have a lot of small drawings on a big sheet in which they put attention to parts of bodies (like hands or eyes) or buildings (doors or windows) or whatever they are studying at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are concerned about loosing skills, you can set yourself a skill per session and concentrate your efforts on that skill and do a restricted size or a next section on the big sheet. Do remember, it is not about the resulting looks, it is about your muscle and mind memory about doing the things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can not find 10 minutes each day you should reconsider making it your future. If you are passionate, you can always find a few minutes each day.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The problem might be to restrict yourself to only those few minutes, if you are like that do plan those minutes in a break between lessons. And set an alarm you can not ignore if you do it at home between online lessons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T13:30:31.893" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T13:30:31.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8875" CreationDate="2021-01-16T12:21:27.833" Score="5" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bookbinding different glues are used and the choice depends on their drying properties. From what I have read wheat starch paste is the traditional way to go. I want to produce my own paste and since it is easier to get I would like to use corn starch instead of wheat starch. In bookbinding one of the important questions is the colour the glue has in its dried state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is dried corn starch paste transparent or is it opaque? If it is opaque, which colour does it have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="804" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T15:56:36.737" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T15:56:36.737" Title="Drying properties of corn starch paste" Tags="|adhesives|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8874" CreationDate="2021-01-16T15:55:05.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corn starch paste &lt;strong&gt;will dry transparently&lt;/strong&gt;, with a slightly warm tint.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can use it for about a week.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As with all starch pastes, make sure to let it dry completely so it won't attract mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also look into using &lt;strong&gt;rice starch/wheat as a basis&lt;/strong&gt;, for a more neutral dried colour and increased adhesive strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.conservation-wiki.com/wiki/BPG_Lining#Adhesives&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for an introduction to the differences between the types of paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T15:55:05.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8871" CreationDate="2021-01-16T21:31:50.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens with many semi-liquid products that are packed in tubes, not just paint. I notice it with some cosmetics and skin creams as well. It's nearly impossible to open a tube without compressing it, which pressurizes it and causes the contents to come spurting out. One solution is to store the tube with the cap pointing up. This way you usually get an air pocket inside the cap, so when you open the tube what comes gushing out is air rather than paint. It also helps to grip the tube near the cap rather than further down the body. This reduces the amount that you compress the tube, so there's less pressure when you open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T21:31:50.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4161" CreationDate="2021-01-17T12:10:38.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made my lens from curtain, its look very cool and you can see everything with really small blur :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10240" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T12:10:38.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8869" CreationDate="2021-01-17T13:31:32.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a lot of charcoal drawings, and &lt;strong&gt;I mostly used paper by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.canson.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Canson&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;XL&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Academy&lt;/em&gt;) &lt;strong&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;https://fabriano.com/en/36/accademia&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fabriano&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (large sheets or rolls of the &lt;em&gt;Accademia&lt;/em&gt; variety). They create several ranges of papers, and both include very affordable ones.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have not had problems with yellowing of paper, despite some of these works being almost twenty years old, but admittedly most are stored dry and dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few basic remarks on the characteristics of the paper you're looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure it is &lt;strong&gt;acid-free&lt;/strong&gt; (which also means it is lignin- and sulfur-free&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;), as the lignin will yellow, and the acids will react to light and heat and deteriorate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternatively, make sure it's &lt;strong&gt;made of cotton&lt;/strong&gt; instead of wood (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2011/6388&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it comes to using charcoal, you'll need quite &lt;strong&gt;sturdy paper&lt;/strong&gt; (≥ ± 95 gr/m2), with at least a little bit of tooth/grain to allow for the charcoal to erode (see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8829/6388&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can check for &lt;strong&gt;cold-pressed&lt;/strong&gt; paper, which usually has a rougher surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure to try different weights, grains, sizes, and colours, to see where your preferences lie.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the drawings out of sunlight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store properly (dry, dark, cool) or display properly (behind UV resistant glass, in dim places, &amp;amp;c.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might even want to go as far as to prevent rubbing in residual acids from your hands by washing your hands before drawing, or wearing light gloves. I don't think this will have a huge impact, but it is good to take into consideration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use hairspray! :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;1: https://web.archive.org/web/20000914045052/http://www.history.pcusa.org/cong/acidpaper.html&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T20:35:18.833" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T20:35:18.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8886" CreationDate="2021-01-17T16:39:25.567" Score="6" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mom insists than whenever I don't use a sewing machine, I have to put a piece of scrap fabric under the sewing foot, lower the foot and move the needle all the way down. This is supposedly true for all machines of all manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When asked for the reason, she couldn't answer me. &amp;quot;It just is that way&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can understand the advice when moving the machine to avoid accidentally bending the sewing foot and needle, but otherwise this doesn't make any sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it true (or was it true in the past) that you should lower the foot and needle of a sewing machine when it's not in use?&lt;/strong&gt; For what reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T20:38:15.390" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T22:58:53.997" Title="Do I have to lower the foot and needle when my sewing machine is not in use?" Tags="|sewing-machine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8881" CreationDate="2021-01-17T16:58:38.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worked in a sail loft for a Summer.  Never heard anything about the machines &amp;quot;needing&amp;quot; to be left that way, as in &amp;quot;it will not work when coming back to it&amp;quot;. It is just a natural and easy thing to do to protect the needle and machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it is a tradition, other than being something you pick up when first learning to use the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2021-01-20T22:58:53.997" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T22:58:53.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8881" CreationDate="2021-01-17T17:31:43.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is akin to the advice, &amp;quot;Don't run with scissors&amp;quot;.  As rebusB points out, it isn't a necessity for the machine to work.  It's because undesirable things could potentially happen, which can be easily avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The undesirable things aren't limited to accidental damage when moving the machine.  The machine could be bumped or experience mechanical shock from things that happen when you are not intentionally moving it.  When the needle is all the way down, not just the needle, but the internal mechanism, is the most protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also protects the user and their fabric from accidental damage.  People tend to focus on the specific thing they're doing and have minimal awareness of the surrounding environment.  If they aren't paying attention, they could accidentally snag the fabric or potentially stick themselves on an exposed needle.  If the needle is left covered inside the machine, the user has to explicitly move it into position to start sewing, which makes the state of the machine something they are focused on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odds of any of the possible undesirable things happening are low, and the results aren't catastrophic.  Still, they can easily be avoided by doing something that takes no real time or effort, so why not use the safest practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T08:12:36.897" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T08:12:36.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8890" CreationDate="2021-01-17T17:46:13.383" Score="0" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a maths undergrad and I am looking for a very smooth pen that's good for speed writing symbols and iterations (like a pencil?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uniball Air Micro and Elite Vision both seem to have some good reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the Elite Vision similar to Pilot V5/V7 in terms of smoothness? (I personally find it quite difficult to write smoothly with V5/V7 so not a big fan of that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one would be the better choice or any other recommendation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10244" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-20T01:45:07.817" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T01:45:07.817" Title="Best Pen for Maths?" Tags="|paper|pens|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2021-01-22T00:56:14.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5671" CreationDate="2021-01-17T18:23:28.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of web sites that give color formulas to replicate different skin colors and metal colors like gold and silver (just do an online search for the specific color you want).  But color, alone, isn't what makes metals look like metals.  If you simply mix the color, you get a yellowish color for gold-tone metals and a grayish color for silvery metals, that don't look like metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes metals look like metals is the reflectivity.  If you look at the gold nugget in Joachim's answer, it isn't a uniform color, there are wide variations in brightness around a yellowish color hue based on light reflecting from the irregular surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metallic paints sometimes use very fine metal dust to impart not just the characteristic color, but the reflectivity.  Sometimes they mix the color from a pallet of non-metallic pigments, and then add something like mica powder to give it some &amp;quot;sparkle&amp;quot; that looks metallic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In art, metallic media tends to look like scintered metal (metal objects made from compressed metal powder).  It looks sparkly matte rather than like a polished metal surface.  Sometimes the metal dust or mica isn't uniformly mixed, so you get a little bit of what looks like some surface texture rather than a completely uniform surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unpolished metal, like the nugget in Joachim's picture, is replicated by reproducing the complex patterns of light and dark formed by reflections from the irregular surface.  Polished metal is replicated by reproducing the reflections visible on the surface.  On flat polished metal, the surface will act like a mirror and you see reflections of nearby objects.  On curved polished metal, the reflections will be distorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For nail polish color that you just want to look metallic, it would probably be sufficient to mix in a little mica powder (metallic-look or sparkly eye shadow would be an inexpensive source).  If your goal is nail art that looks like a metal object, it's a small canvas, but you would need to replicate the color variations and reflections rather than make it sparkly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T18:23:28.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8881" CreationDate="2021-01-18T07:18:05.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard similar things about bicycle derailleurs, and hand-tools like secateurs (pruning shears), both of which have springs inside them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an &amp;quot;old wives tale&amp;quot; that the spring will loose its springiness if stored under tension for a long time, so a spring should be stored in a &amp;quot;relaxed&amp;quot; or untensioned state.  That means letting the machine's foot down, putting the bicycle into a hard gear, and storing your garden cutters wide open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sewing machine is 70 years old and, as far as I know, the foot has always been left in the up position when not used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metallurgy used to be a bit more hit-and-miss when it came to making springs, but you're more likely to wear out some other part first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another downside of leaving the foot down is the risk of scratching the underside with the upwards-facing feed dogs.  Even with a scrap of cloth, bumping the pedal under power can eject that in a blink, and that could scratch up the underside of your foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upshot&lt;/strong&gt;: I wouldn't bother lowering the foot for storage.  All I do is make sure the needle is up at the top of its arc, above the foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8130" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T14:51:12.217" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T14:51:12.217" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="95" CreationDate="2021-01-18T07:22:03.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thought - if your machine is vintage or older, or you have any doubts about electric wiring, then get it checked over before use.  The insulation standards of the day weren't great, and since then heat, UV and Ozone all contribute to wiring deterioration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do give a try at servicing your machine.  A bit of light machine oil (literal sewing machine oil) does wonders for moving parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truly the phrase &amp;quot;purring like a well oiled sewing machine&amp;quot; makes a lot of sense when you've just oiled your machine and it sounds very happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8130" LastActivityDate="2021-01-18T07:22:03.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-18T23:38:12.183" Score="5" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best thing to &lt;strong&gt;outline&lt;/strong&gt; a sketch with when you're going to use &lt;strong&gt;watercolour&lt;/strong&gt; afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pencil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharpie thick point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sharpie fine point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular black pen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black colour pencil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10250" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T18:43:29.163" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T10:18:46.747" Title="What do I use to outline a sketch when I want to apply watercolour afterwards?" Tags="|drawing|watercolor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8884" CreationDate="2021-01-19T15:40:54.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a hard question to answer, because its based mostly off of personal preference. Out of those two pens, I personally prefer the Elite Vision, because the Air micro is sort of like a fine liner tip, and doesn't glide as easily. If I could choose any pens, my first pick would be the Pilot V Ball RT Extra Fine. They're pretty cheap, and they glide across the paper. They also require very little pressure, so that helps prevent hand cramps. My second choice would be the Pilot Varsity. Its a disposable fountain pen that is amazing. They have a nice line, but depending on the paper you use, the might bleed a little. 3rd choice is the Lamy AL-star Rollerball. Its a little more pricey, around $35, but its refillable and highly durable. Its a nice grip and weight, and a good line too. But overall, the Pilot V Ball Extra Fine would most likely be the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T15:40:54.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8894" CreationDate="2021-01-19T19:41:48.660" Score="4" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a bunch of pages for what seems like a simple question but haven't been able to find a definitive answer. My main confusion comes from the (in my newbie mind) conflicting statement, where wool presumably is warmer, but acrylic doesn't breathe. The intended use is indoor slipper socks (not for use with shoes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that acrylic not breathing should make it warmer, since it's better at storing body heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10254" LastEditorUserId="10254" LastEditDate="2021-01-19T21:56:18.000" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T06:09:09.883" Title="Which is warmer for slipper socks—wool or acrylic?" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-19T23:59:44.813" Score="3" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey guys I purchased a large printed vinyl banner (3050mm x 766mm). Due to cost reasons, I want to glue this banner to an aluminum sign and it looks like it is coated, maybe plastic or laminate. I’m located in Australia. Which glue should I use to adhere this banner to the sign? It is outdoor and I don’t want glue to damage the print either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10255" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T19:29:22.377" LastActivityDate="2023-02-27T02:55:36.727" Title="Glue for printed vinyl banner" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2021-01-20T01:02:42.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warmth in clothing comes mostly from trapped air, which is a good insulator.  Water is a good conductor of heat, and water vapor can transfer heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With acrylic, depending on the characteristics of how the fiber was made and how the fiber is used to create a fabric, it can be a better insulator than wool.  However, clothing presents a challenge because the body perspires and gives off moisture.  Depending on what happens to that moisture, it can defeat the insulation properties of the trapped air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Breathability&amp;quot; is kind of a misnomer.  Fabrics aren't an air-tight seal around your body.  The term really describes more what happens to the moisture.  In the summer, you will be coolest if the perspiration is evaporated, removing body heat.  Synthetics, like acrylic, aren't as good as many natural fibers at getting the moisture away from your body and evaporating it, so you feel hot and sticky.  It isn't so much the insulation value of the fabric preventing the hot air from warming you, as not getting much wicking to keep you drier, and the benefit of evaporation to make you cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem logical that holding that moisture in better would help keep you warm in the winter, but there's more going on.  Heat moves from a hotter area to a cooler area.  The bigger the temperature difference, the more heat moves.  Its ability to do that depends on the material its doing it through.  An insulator slows it way down.  During the summer, there typically isn't a huge difference in temperature between your body and the surrounding air, so the heat isn't under a lot of &amp;quot;pressure&amp;quot; to move, and the insulation value of the fabric doesn't play a big role.  It's ability to wick and evaporate moisture is the most important characteristic in keeping you comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different process is at work when you're outside in the winter or inside using slipper socks at floor level and want to keep warm.  There's a much bigger temperature difference between your body and the surrounding air, and your body heat wants to move to the surrounding air.   The moisture is very efficient at transferring heat away from your body, whether or not it evaporates.  Think of something like water-cooling that uses a closed loop of water to transfer heat without evaporating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A synthetic material like acrylic can become saturated with moisture, so it's basically just holding a heat conductor against your body.  Wool has a unique property.  The fibers have a crimped structure that traps a lot of tiny air pockets.  At the same time, it has the ability to absorb and wick a lot of moisture.  Eventually, there will be enough moisture to reach the outer surface and evaporate, but there is a very long, convoluted, capillary path between you and the outside air, so the moisture can't do a good job of siphoning heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes wool warmer for a purpose like slipper socks.  There are also blends of wool (particularly Merino wool), and synthetic fibers, like acrylic, that do a good job.  The wool manages the moisture, allowing the synthetic to provide good insulation.  The synthetics are much less expensive, so you get the warmth at a lower cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T01:02:42.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2021-01-20T06:33:16.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8894/6316&quot;&gt;answer of fixer1234&lt;/a&gt; that wool is better at &lt;em&gt;regulating&lt;/em&gt; the temperature than purely &lt;em&gt;insulating&lt;/em&gt; the wearer, though I don't know the mechanics of &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you could make socks from a perfect insulator. Your feet would never ever be cold again, but because our body doesn't stop producing heat, your feet would soon overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By more regularly wearing woolen clothes I noticed that wool seems to insulate just to the right degree (to a comfortable body temperature). If the surrounding air temperature rises, wool seems to insulate a little less than in colder temperatures, allowing you to still feel comfortable. Of course there are limits to that property, but in changing temperatures I feel more comfortable in wool than in other fibres like cotton or synthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One disadvantage of wool is that it can be scratchy. Either make the slippers from special sock yarn, use a wool cotton blend or put on a thin layer of cotton underneath (like a pair of thin cotton socks inside a woolen sock slipper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And acrylics has another disadvantage when it comes to making slipper socks - it tends to cling to smell. If the recipient of the socks has smelly feet, you can expect the socks to intensify that smell in no time at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T06:09:09.883" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T06:09:09.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8900" CreationDate="2021-01-20T19:04:35.107" Score="4" ViewCount="656" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does one keep a kneaded eraser &amp;quot;healthy&amp;quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say things like &amp;quot;don't let it lay on the carpet,&amp;quot; what else do I have to do? Is there proper way to store it and how long will a kneaded eraser last kept that way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2021-01-21T20:31:14.227" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T20:31:14.227" Title="Caring for Kneaded Erasers" Tags="|maintenance|erasers|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8869" CreationDate="2021-01-20T22:33:42.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joachim's answer provides very good info focused on the archival aspect to what makes a &amp;quot;good paper&amp;quot; in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But he just touches upon the two most critical aspects of what makes a good paper as far as drawing on it is concerned: the &lt;strong&gt;weight&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;tooth&lt;/strong&gt; of the paper. &lt;strong&gt;Weight&lt;/strong&gt; being a combination of thickness and durability, &lt;strong&gt;tooth&lt;/strong&gt; being the amount of texture and/or roughness of the paper's surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When drawing in charcoal (or pastels, or pencil for that matter) the &lt;strong&gt;texture&lt;/strong&gt; of the surface plays a huge part in the final work. A light broad stroke of the stylus brings out the texture which can add great dynamic to your shaded tones. &lt;strong&gt;Tooth&lt;/strong&gt; also serves to grab the charcoal so that the drawing is easier to put down and also less likely to smear away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;weight&lt;/strong&gt; of the paper provides resistance to wearing away or tearing. The heavier the paper the more vigorous you can be when working, giving you more range and flexibility in your style. Dry media can build up quickly, heavier paper allows you to put down more pigment before the paper becomes overloaded. Weight of the paper is shown in pounds (per 500 uncut sheets -- 17&amp;quot; x 22&amp;quot; for regular paper, 20&amp;quot; x 26&amp;quot; for cover stock) and ~65lbs. would probably be the minimum you would want to go for charcoal/pastel work. If you were to be working on &amp;gt;150lbs. paper you could start to do things like scratch away pigmented areas without destroying the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point in your drawing career &lt;em&gt;experimentation is critical&lt;/em&gt;. So focus less on permanence and more on expression. Find things to draw on that are not what you would consider paper at all: Canvas, bark, shopping bags, cardboard. Different textures can result in a very different look to the drawings. The idea is to do a lot of different works without worrying about anything beyond the moment of their creation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then take that experience with you when picking out the nicer drawing papers at the art store. Even then keep experimenting, like with Japanese washi papers, watercolor paper, etc... But then you will know what you are looking for in the paper.  As far as keeping it going on a budget many times there is a bin of slightly damaged papers, a good way to try out the more expensive ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-22T18:50:14.427" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T18:50:14.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2949" CreationDate="2021-01-21T17:56:53.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband is in a large hospital, with serious lung damage, and he has been cutting (deceased) cattle bones extensively. Including woods and Red Cedar. These doctors are having a difficult time wrapping their heads around the idea that it could be caused by an 8 year buildup of bone dust, using no mask of any kind. Both lungs are collapsed now, and air is leaking into his body. Putting this in here, for others to use caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10263" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T17:56:53.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8896" CreationDate="2021-01-21T20:17:43.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since a kneaded eraser works by absorbing the pigment you are erasing along with a little friction to lift the stuff, to keep it healthy keep it away from things it can absorb. Like sand or dust. You also want to keep it dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping it off the carpet may not be not so much about keeping it healthy as keeping it from getting stuck in the fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Temperature wise you really do not have to worry. Normal room temperature is fine, it will get soft if you get it really hot, but keep it away from flame or hot surfaces seems obvious. If it gets cold a few minutes in your hands will bring it up to working temperature. I do not think they freeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, they work by absorbing pigment, though the rubber can get stiff with time (many months as you have noticed). When they get stiff often just stretching them for a while, like stretching taffy, will refresh the eraser. At a certain point they will have absorbed too much and will become useless. It is more a usage thing than a time thing. So expect an unused eraser to last over a year, longer in its wrapper. Keep in mind though, they are designed to be expendable, not archival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T20:17:43.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8833" CreationDate="2021-01-22T00:52:54.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mylar sleeves for storage are the most common way comics collectors protect original art, being the sturdiest and least likely to cause chemical damage to the paper. Mylar and acid-free cardboard are pretty much your first line of defense with anything comics-related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.comicartfans.com/comic-art-collecting-caring.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.comicartfans.com/comic-art-collecting-caring.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attended San Diego Comic-Con for 40 years, and the majority of the dealers I've seen there over the decades display/store/ship vintage original art (usually ink over pencil or blue lines on Bristol Board) in mylar sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uninked pencil art is also displayed this way if it's not framed or boxed, but I've more often seen that in the poly sleeves of artist's portfolios, being sold by the artist themselves, and that's far less suitable storage for any art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2021-01-23T21:20:17.673" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T21:20:17.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-22T11:01:29.183" Score="1" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to remember a knot that I learnt in a crafts workshop to build a himmeli : a himmeli is a construction in straw (&lt;a href=&quot;http://fi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himmeli&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example image&lt;/a&gt;), a thread goes through the straw to keep it together. The knot I learnt was to join a new piece of thread, when you ran out of thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The knot I was taught was called &amp;quot;Kankurin Solmu&amp;quot; in Finnish (it translates to &amp;quot;Weaver's Knot&amp;quot;). I found the following diagram of the &amp;quot;Weaver's Knot&amp;quot; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://punomo.fi/kasityotekniikat/kankurinsolmu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Finnish web page&lt;/a&gt;, but I just can't make out how it is built from the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think that the knot in the photo I posted below corresponds to the so-called Weaver's Knot of the diagram at &lt;a href=&quot;http://punomo.fi/kasityotekniikat/kankurinsolmu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;that page&lt;/a&gt;? (Something doesn't seem quite right to me but I can't exactly remember the knot I was taught and I can't really make out the diagram).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the knot in the photo of my post seem viable as a knot to join thread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xt2GP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xt2GPm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click image for larger version&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10267" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T20:11:00.103" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T19:12:34.773" Title="Is this the 'Weaver's Knot'?" Tags="|knots|himmeli|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8905" CreationDate="2021-01-22T16:03:31.320" Score="2" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a ring box and I am having trouble finding these type of button locks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2iwSg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2iwSg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a type of button lock usually made in brass used in manufacturing ring boxes and an example of its use can be seen here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9CmOv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9CmOv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this kind of button lock? I cannot find it selling anywhere because I have no idea what that is called, nor do I have a clue where to look for something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've made some progress, but still stuck at locating such a supply of this item. This kind of push button latch, hasp, clasp, clip lock, snap fastener is frequently used in metallic pill boxes and similar items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzM1Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzM1Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10268" LastEditorUserId="10268" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T13:47:50.843" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T13:47:50.843" Title="Name of pressure button lock used in ring boxes" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8904" CreationDate="2021-01-23T21:52:21.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There does not seem to be a specific name for this exact type of hardware.  It is referred to generically as a &amp;quot;push button catch&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;push button latch&amp;quot;.  I found a number of examples on small boxes like jewelry boxes and ring boxes; some were all brass and some had buttons of other materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the examples I found were identified as &amp;quot;vintage&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;antique&amp;quot;, and most dated from the late 1800's to early 1900's.  It looks like this was a popular style of catch back then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to find new catches for sale at general sites like Amazon, the big arts &amp;amp; crafts stores, or sites that cater to craftsmen, like woodworker sites, where you can usually find unusual or specialty hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I did find some boxes with that style of catch that are currently being made and sold, so perhaps a cheap version of the catch is being made in China (if that's the case, you would typically need to buy in bulk).  For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://intercomusa.com/push-button-single-ring-box/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Push Button Single Ring Box - IntercomUSA&lt;/a&gt; is sold in lots of 12 at $2.42 per box for the entire box, so the bare catch that went into it must have been dirt cheap (not brass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/937799721/luxury-vintage-design-soft-leather-ring?ref=sold_out_ad-10&amp;amp;plkey=7dc9b9b68b16d7bad644335e66389584215a5e76%3A937799721&amp;amp;frs=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Luxury Vintage Design Soft Leather Ring Box Gift Box Turquoise | Etsy&lt;/a&gt; looks like a higher quality, handmade box.  It might be using the same catches, or even starting with something like the cheap boxes in the previous example and covering them.  You could try contacting the seller and see if they will tell you where they get their catches (or maybe they will sell you some of theirs if they had to buy in bulk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't investigate Alibaba.  That isn't typically a source for small quantities.  Another idea would be to search sites like eBay or Etsy for old boxes in bad shape that contain that kind of catch (or cheap new boxes like the first link).  You could cannibalize the catch from the box, or strip the box down to its skeleton and make a new box from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-23T23:31:12.900" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T23:31:12.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="267" CreationDate="2021-01-25T01:21:34.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gesso may lend better adherence due to the quality of providing “tooth” for a surface. Gesso also acts as a primer for your substrate to prevent absorption of art supplies added later into the material beneath. I would not think it appropriate for adhering gilding flakes. I’ve seen other adhesives used and there are some videos on YouTube if you are interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think you are looking for adhesive sizing for gilding it is kind of like a thin gel that gets tacky when it’s allowed to dry for a short duration. When it sets up then you can apply the metallic foil using a brush or laying it on the sizing and it will stick to that adhesive. Then you can burnish it, smoothing your surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technical gelatin can be bought online for this purpose. I’ve used Mona Lisa Adhesive Size to adhere leaf. It worked but I wondered the same question - how to DIY this at home. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goldreverre.com/resource/watersize.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.goldreverre.com/resource/watersize.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps some type of gelatin (not a thick consistency) mixed with a glue could work for this purpose? Let me know if you figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10275" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T01:21:34.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8911" CreationDate="2021-01-25T22:08:50.270" Score="9" ViewCount="4355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this in the mail (see picture below). I’m just not sure if it’s a good idea to give it to my 14 year old (at the time of his next birthday) nephew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mean time, could someone tell me what the various pieces actually do? I think that they are mostly fishing items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XfePE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XfePE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of flat multi-use tool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastEditorUserId="352" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T19:33:41.527" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T19:27:01.260" Title="Can someone tell me the purpose of this multi-tool?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8910" CreationDate="2021-01-26T01:08:35.140" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a fishing/survival tool.  To use most of the tools, you snap the needed tool (such as a hook) off the slab.  The individual tools do not reattach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you noticed, most of the tools are for fishing, but some are more general tools, such as a saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not its appropriate for your 14 year old nephew, depends largely on his maturity and your best judgement.  Personally, I think it's fine for the typical 14 year old, especially if they like to fish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side-note, unique tools like this can be great for arts and crafts.  For example, some of those tools can be used to create wonderful patterns in clay or can be used with paints similar to how you would use a palette knife.  Obviously, not for little kids due to the small metal parts, but for adults, these types of unique metal shapes can lead to wonderfully unique artistic expressions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="352" LastEditorUserId="352" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T01:22:11.227" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T01:22:11.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1750" CreationDate="2021-01-26T12:58:27.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a hot glue gun with clear glue to seal the side holes all the way around and then paint with a clear sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10288" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T12:58:27.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8795" CreationDate="2021-01-26T18:33:18.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a Leathercraft 5-in-one Multi Tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/sg-en/listing/810136661/leathercraft-5-in-1-multi-tool-3ea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.etsy.com/sg-en/listing/810136661/leathercraft-5-in-1-multi-tool-3ea&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's supposed to pull apart and... do various clever things, but quite frankly I see nothing to recommend it over a traditional awl etc. which has a proper handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9910" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T18:33:18.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-26T20:34:43.500" Score="5" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a box of various 2&amp;quot;x2&amp;quot; Mexican tiles to create a backsplash behind my oven:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YrpoY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YrpoY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overall variety&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to do, is to make some of my own tiles to mix in - tiles that don't &amp;quot;stick out&amp;quot; as being obviously different, but which contain images personal to me.  I want my tiles to use the same colors and the same design styles as the ones I bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm working with a local ceramicist, she's got some red clay to match these tiles (here's a side view of one of the purchased tiles, showing the clay):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1hKY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1hKY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side view&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and she's working with the clay to figure out shrinkage amount and what thickness to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now we're looking at the designs on these tiles and trying to figure out what they did, so that we can match it.  (BTW I've contacted the company and they don't want to give up trade secrets, I guess that's understandable)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these tiles look like they could have been hand-painted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gaudw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gaudw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diagonals&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and possibly even&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xrfdc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xrfdc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;corner blobs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but others are just way too intricate and precise to be hand painted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4AsT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4AsT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;circle pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what process they used to put the images onto the tiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10293" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T08:10:57.643" Title="How were these tiles made?" Tags="|painting|ceramics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8938" CreationDate="2021-01-26T21:55:19.580" Score="4" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a quick question since I've been drawing for a long time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I really need that white charcoal pencil? How do you use it? Same as charcoal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T02:14:36.247" Title="Drawing with white charcoal" Tags="|charcoal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8910" CreationDate="2021-01-26T22:33:49.103" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks a lot like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGVeP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cGVeP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.readyman.com/collections/survival-cards/products/readyman-wilderness-survival-card&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;product info&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wilderness Survival Card is a set of tools and devices that are a game changer for somebody in a survival scenario. With this many survival tools on tap at this price and weight, it's a great value in a wallet-sized package!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes this tool so uniquely advantageous is that it weighs less than an ounce, yet can replace up to 20lbs of gear! Put away your bulky fishing lures, that gigantic foldable spear, and awkward hand-saw, and get something that you can carry around in your pocket!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Specifications:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fits in a Wallet or Altoid Tin (Card Size: 2&amp;quot; x 3.5&amp;quot; in)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight: 12 Grams / 0.42 oz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Features:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fishhooks (x9)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arrows (x5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snare locks (x4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Awl (x1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sewing Needles (x2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saw blades (x3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tweezers (x1 - on the right-hand edge)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="357" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T22:33:49.103" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-27T06:32:55.437" Score="3" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to make refrigerator magnets, and step one seems to be laying my hands on smooth edged glass tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve searched for various sources without success for a bit, finding nothing much larger than 1” or 30 mm squares.for the most part, along with a few 24 x 48 mm options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve actually considered having them made, but it seems to be a cumbersome process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I absolutely don’t want to cut to size and grind due to health implications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial, but erroneous, idea was that I could simply cut them to size, and then torch smooth the edges, but that seems to be a non-starter, as I’m told that they would shatter immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a glass blower who seems to have some idea of how to attain this but is seems cumbersome and expensive, involving only one or two layers maximum in a kiln, where they would be taken up to a temperature that we’d arrive at by experimentation, which would soften/round the edges and then the pieces allowed to cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, there is an issue, although a manageable one, in that the ¼” glass that I could access would be a “float” glass that is formed on molten tin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I’d like to put my hands on these by the hundred. with various sizes and ratios, 2” squares, approximately 1 ½ by 3” rectangles, and some in a 4 x 5 ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could point me towards a source, or suggest how these could be manufactured affordably, I’d be very appreciative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10088" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T20:14:43.247" Title="Sourcing or making smooth edged glass tiles" Tags="|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8916" CreationDate="2021-01-27T08:05:42.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; covered the tile in white glaze and then used a paint brush or sponge stamps to apply the blue glaze on top of the dried (but not fired) white glaze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the only source I could find is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/PSOO6Sb1rE0?t=1692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;German documentary&lt;/a&gt; without any subtitles, but starting at 28:10 it clearly shows a potter applying different patterns by sponging pigmented engobe onto unfired clay items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She explains that she made all of her sponge stamps herself by drawing a motif onto a fine sponge and either cutting the excess away with nail scissors or burning fine lines into the sponge with a soldering iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To apply the pattern, the sponge has to be damp. The clay item is covered with a first coat of engobe. After the first coat dried, the sponge stamp is dipped into a very shallow pool of engobe and then stippled onto the clay item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't get perfectly crisp lines with this method, but especially the bottommost picture you posted looks like it was sponged. You can even see a very slight sponge pattern in there. All of the other tiles have very smooth lines and are most likely hand painted, but I can imagine that you can stamp a guiding pattern onto the tile and then follow that pattern with a paint brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T08:10:57.643" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T08:10:57.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-27T14:15:19.727" Score="4" ViewCount="559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just found a moon map published in the UK newspaper The Daily Mail from 1969, which I saved because of the first moon landing and an abiding interest in astronomy. However, it's been folded up for the past 50 years, and was published in two parts, which I sellotaped together at the time. Obviously it's now in pretty poor shape, but I want to preserve what's left as best I can (it's still readable!) I've bought acid-free conservation paper as a backing, and a very large acid free conservation 'plastic' envelope to hold it, but I want to stick the two parts together, on the backing, to show the whole map. Can anyone recommend the best adhesive or method for doing this, please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10301" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T07:12:07.290" Title="Adhesive for very old newspaper" Tags="|adhesives|paper|preservation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8910" CreationDate="2021-01-27T14:27:10.353" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to find the same product on &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B087M5NG2Z&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/78MyT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/78MyT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's described as &amp;quot;a handy wallet tool [that] contains everything you need to survive&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This handy wallet tool contains everything you need to survive if you ever run into an emergency situation. Explore the wilderness with the comfort of knowing the Military Grade Survival Tool from has your back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lightweight card brings together a variety of fishing and hunting tools, Clever combination of multiple CARDS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the description it includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Survival Saw (Coarse and Fine Edged)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fine Saw Sewing Needles(2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trident Spearhead Arrowhead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small Game Arrowhead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single Fish Hooks (4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double Fish Hooks (5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snare Hooks/Lures (4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Awl/Tweezers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/egnzy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/egnzy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10303" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T19:27:01.260" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T19:27:01.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8923" CreationDate="2021-01-27T19:50:39.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be tempted to have it laminated (it would take a big roll laminator; schools, libraries, or print shops may have them and the cost would be nominal).  As long as the paper is exposed to air and humidity, it will continue to deteriorate.  It will eventually become brittle.  Laminating it will keep it together in its current condition and allow you to handle it and examine it up close without worrying about it starting to fall apart.  It may be possible to laminate the sections into one continuous piece, or the sections could be laminated separately and mounted next to each other.  After lamination, you can mount them for display, and will have a lot of flexibility in the type of adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T19:50:39.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8920" CreationDate="2021-01-27T20:14:43.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Elmy's comment about glass being a bad choice for this application.  But if you are intent on using it, here are some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Microscope slides are roughly the width you want and can be cut to length.  A skilled glass cutter (say someone who makes windows or works with stained or leaded glass), can quickly cut strips and pieces from a sheet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glass corners and edges can be ground smooth by doing it under water.  You can even cut glass microscope slides to length with a scissors this way; snip them submerged in a basin of water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can melt glass in a microwave kiln.  Microwave kilns are relatively inexpensive to buy or even make yourself, and can melt glass and metals in a home microwave oven.  Melted glass jewelry is commonly made in these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T20:14:43.247" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-01-28T13:50:59.780" Score="3" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a shaman stick and I want to attach crystals to it but as it will be used in rituals, I don't want to use anything man-made like adhesive. Is there a way to attach them using something natural?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-28T16:47:50.880" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T16:47:50.880" Title="How do I attach crystals to a shaman stick without using adhesive?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8928" CreationDate="2021-01-28T15:17:45.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adhesives based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitch_(resin)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pitch&lt;/a&gt; (e.g. resin from pine tree sap) and beeswax have been used for millenia.  This makes a hot-melting glue that's strong enough to secure knife handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutler%27s_resin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cutler's Resin&lt;/a&gt;. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/paleoplanet69529/how-to-make-cutler-s-resin-t55490.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one of many recipes&lt;/a&gt;; other similar compounds include stone dust (e.g. ochre), and were &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/4255/319&quot;&gt;used in ancient Eqypt&lt;/a&gt; (an old answer of mine).  The effect of the beeswax is to soften the pitch, while stone dust (or presumably wood dust) is used as a filler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reckon you might want to slightly inlay the crystals to make them more secure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T15:17:45.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8923" CreationDate="2021-01-29T07:12:07.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In paper conservation usually a wheat starch paste (&lt;em&gt;not wheat flour!&lt;/em&gt;), rice starch paste or methyl cellulose is used as a glue. As backing paper Japanese Kozo paper is the gold standard today because it has very long fibres (is very stable over time) and is semi-transparent and acid-free. Other paper types can be used as well, as long as they're acid-free. To conserve newspaper a heat set tissue is recommended because it's easy to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please keep in mind that conservation is an art of itself and conservators need special training to avoid accidentally damaging the object they want to conserve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wash your hands before touching the paper. If you have sweaty hands or need to work on the paper for an extended time, wash your hands again periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/yBYdYSidO70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; shows the process of conserving a brittle and torn piece of paper. (I found that playing the video at 1.25x playback speed makes it easier to understand the speaker.) You can use the same technique to merge the two parts together and mend any torn edges. The general goal is to keep the object in it's original state as much as possible. That's why documents aren't usually completely backed with paper, but only in fragile and damaged areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to frame your paper, make sure to use UV filtering glass in the frame, because light itself also damages paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I strongly advise against backing the whole page with paper is not the conservation standard of retaining the original state, but the curling of wet paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure all of us experienced this problem as children: cover a large area of paper with a wet glue, stick it to a dry piece of paper and the result will be an ugly curly or wavey mess. As adults we might have experienced that strips of wallpaper were aligned perfectly while wet with paste, but ended up having gaps between them once they dried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's because the fibres of paper soak up water and expand when wet and shrink back to their original size when dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you cover the backing paper with glue paste and stick it to the newspaper, either the backing paper will end up wrinkled or it will damage the newspaper when drying. The same applys to covering the newspaper with glue, only that the risk of physically damaging the paper is even higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backing the entire newpaper page with heat activated tissue might be an alternative, but only if the print survives the heat without being smudged or faded. You also risk literally roasting the paper (causing it to get darker brown and even more brittle) when you apply too much heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T07:12:07.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8932" CreationDate="2021-01-29T14:42:27.943" Score="3" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm drawing a cat. Cats have lots of hair going everywhere.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Here's the photo I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A66ev.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A66ev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;isn't he cute?&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is his body, it's too white, and I won't be able to do anything there, because there's no variation of colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T15:59:49.923" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T01:57:18.147" Title="Drawing from a photograph that is too bright" Tags="|drawing|reference|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8931" CreationDate="2021-01-29T15:57:08.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that your reference photograph suffers from &lt;strong&gt;overexposure&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this image apparently contains sufficient information to tweak it to reasonable levels in Photoshop using the 'Curves' tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55jzX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55jzX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The tweaked version of the image with the Curves tool menu next to it&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, &lt;strong&gt;I still suggest you pick a better photograph as reference&lt;/strong&gt;: this one has a very small depth of field (i.e. the amount of spatial depth in the photo that is reasonably focused), and the level of detail on the cat's visible flank is very low (due to the high illumination of the photo and the DOF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJ70i.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the tweaked version of the photograph, if you insist on using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question seems related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8281/how-to-draw-human-body-in-chest-collarbone-area&quot;&gt;How to draw human body in chest/collarbone area?&lt;/a&gt;, where drawing proper shapes was problematic due to the reference image being underlit (or because the subject had insufficient lighting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T15:57:08.800" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8933" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-01-29T16:18:38.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Examples of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Considering this reference, where do I start?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do I select from this reference?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can I use as reference for &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I pick that specific colour from my reference?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/style-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;style-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;style-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T16:18:38.017" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T16:18:38.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8934" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-01-29T16:18:38.017" Score="0" Body="Concerning questions about the use of references (images, models, or real life)." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T16:18:38.017" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T16:18:38.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8889" CreationDate="2021-01-29T17:51:19.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because watercolor layers are transparent and thin, any hard pencil marks will most likely be visible through the paint at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THE &amp;quot;NICE&amp;quot; WAY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I recommend using your pencil lightly when you are creating your initial sketch/map and erase at least partially afterward, if possible.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I also recommend you using a 9H pencil or some &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; pencil, they're light and not noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THE &amp;quot;CHEAP&amp;quot; WAY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Get a pencil, use it lightly, don't make it too noticeable.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Hopes this helps! Good luck with your painting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T22:29:35.927" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T22:29:35.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8647" CreationDate="2021-01-29T17:55:41.990" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quick fix is a sealer so the tannin or stain can't penetrate through. Stain blockers that are oil-based primer/paints, spray shellac, polyurethane, or even wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T17:55:41.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8917" CreationDate="2021-01-29T19:00:03.770" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't really &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; that white charcoal :) However, it can be a very useful and fun to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White charcoal can be &lt;strong&gt;used to create highlights&lt;/strong&gt; in drawings, and is particularly effective in combination with dark charcoal. It is often used in academic drawing when drawing from a real-life references, like nudes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k1ZAN.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k1ZAN.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cropped upper part of a model drawing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pierre-Paul Prud'hon&lt;/em&gt; - Standing female nude, seen from behind - &lt;em&gt;1810s&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the hue of the paper: white charcoal is naturally &lt;strong&gt;especially useful when used on non-white paper&lt;/strong&gt;, preferably dark paper, as mentioned in the comments by users &lt;em&gt;Lyssagal&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;agarza&lt;/em&gt;, or, when used in combination with charcoal, a hue in between white and black (medium greys, often slightly coloured, in blue, green, or yellow, are quite common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this approach, you can use white charcoal as an opposite of charcoal, in the sense that &lt;strong&gt;you build your subject up from the illuminated aspects instead of its shadows&lt;/strong&gt;, as one usually does using charcoal. Together, especially on toned paper, these two complimentary approaches give you more freedom, a larger tonal depth, and a quicker method of working, as you can correct most (minor) errors on-the-fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can actually create your own toned paper by crushing some charcoal and rubbing it on a paper sheet using the palm of your hand (if necessary, you can use tissue or cloth to even it out more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike charcoal, &lt;strong&gt;white charcoal is harder to erase, and less prone to blurring&lt;/strong&gt; as regular charcoal is (see the note below for the reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that - unless you're talking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binch%C5%8Dtan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;binchō-tan&lt;/a&gt; - 'white charcoal' is obviously a misnomer: charcoal, from 'charred coal', is the product of burning wood.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This so-called &amp;quot;white charcoal&amp;quot; may be similar in character and regularly used in conjunction with charcoal, but is a pigment combined with a binding agent, often a (compressed) soft pastel. Binchō-tan is indeed (seemingly) white charcoal, but not suitable for drawing (and would probably appear grey).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-29T22:31:22.133" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T22:31:22.133" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8986" CreationDate="2021-01-30T21:43:44.067" Score="3" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been storing my life drawings in an old portfolio bag but I'm running out of space in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some other ways that I can store 100+ 21x27&amp;quot; unmounted drawings? Also my studio space is very limited, so the less the floor space the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastEditorUserId="2546" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T22:33:16.423" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T02:37:30.997" Title="Storing large format art in the smallest space possible" Tags="|drawing|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8939" CreationDate="2021-01-31T09:48:39.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the old portfolio bag worked well, I'd suggest getting another one. It seems to be the most practical solution since it's mobile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative would be having a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=drawing%20cabinet&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;drawing cabinet&lt;/a&gt; and installing it atop an existing closet or a tall wooden construction so the space underneath is still available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also vertical drawing cabinets (e.g. image 2) available, that won't take up as much floor space, and might be easier to hang from a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XW5Xm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XW5Xm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/153hxm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/153hxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image 1 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.export.kaiserkraft.com/cupboards/drawing-cabinets/drawing-cabinet/a1-5-drawers-height-420-mm/p/M5741077/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image 2 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vistaplan-drawingmanagement.co.uk%2Fproduct%2Fstandard-cabinet%2F&amp;amp;psig=AOvVaw3HXlZPrS-phaH4yYjASmrL&amp;amp;ust=1612172086579000&amp;amp;source=images&amp;amp;cd=vfe&amp;amp;ved=0CA0QjhxqFwoTCLDx_Jnvxe4CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAi&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are usually quite expensive, though, but you can often find them as second hand offerings on online market place websites.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Alternatively, you can use them as references to build your own - that way, you can adapt them completely to your desired volume, shape, and location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T09:48:39.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8889" CreationDate="2021-01-31T11:00:12.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you gave sharpies as option, you seem to want see the drawing when finished with the water colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, use whatever waterproof marker you happy to draw with, as the lines will be well visible, you need to draw in such a way that the lines are as you want them to be in the end result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pencil lines will work as well, if less obvious, as long as the pencil is waterproof, as most are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you want to lines to be almost invisible, a very light and thin pencil line or even pencil of which the lines will dissolve in water and disappear mostly or all in the paint you use later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from that you see it is a design decision.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Show or hide the lines, your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T11:00:12.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8944" CreationDate="2021-01-31T13:40:55.400" Score="4" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some old, classic computer games ranging from the 1980's to the late 1990's (eg. Shadow of the Beast, Starcraft, Total Annihilation, Awesome, etc.) with the original boxes. Some of these boxes have extremely cool graphic art printed on the front. I have the idea to decorate the walls of my home with enlarged versions of these works of art. I don't want to destroy the boxes in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Googled &amp;quot;how to copy games box art for wall picture&amp;quot; but there were no results. I'm at a loss for how to alter my query to be more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques might one use to copy and enlarge box art images to wall posters? Also - any legal or ethical issues with this? (I'm in the UK.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10332" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T17:35:52.910" Title="How to copy game box art prints to wall posters?" Tags="|printing|posters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8943" CreationDate="2021-01-31T15:27:44.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can either scan the boxes with a high DPI setting, or take photographs of them with a semi-professional camera. In both cases you'll end up with a high-definition digital reproduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have to perform some post-processing in software like Photoshop to properly isolate (crop and adjust the perspective of) the cover, adjust the white balance and/or the colours, and, if required, increase the size of the image and add some noise or light blur to disguise the (Ben Day) dots that are likely visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Send/take the files to a printer shop, make sure the colours are displayed correctly on their calibrated monitors (use the same colour profile - ask an employee) and you're about done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can't give legal advise here, but doing something like this for personal use is generally considered legal, as far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-01-31T17:35:52.910" LastActivityDate="2021-01-31T17:35:52.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2021-02-01T12:42:51.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used gouache yellows and orange and blues - thee seem to fade better - lots of water added at all stages [sunset looking south]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[![sunset looking south using gouache][1]][1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T12:42:51.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-02T15:23:05.453" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty young and learning to do art and have aspirations to try and draw out a story (or at least some pretty pictures) and obviously have many more years to go, but I was always wondering, is there a certain level or threshold you have to make in order for your work to be considered worthwhile to people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say I can hold my own writing a story and plot, its not kindergarten level, but definitely not on par with some other authors and cartoonists out there. I'm more concerned about the actual quality of illustrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a certain &amp;quot;rule of thumb&amp;quot; or criteria that should generally be met before you consider doing things seriously? Do I need credentials, or to have several years of study and college education behind me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only worried because I wouldn't want to embarrass myself or willfully put out content that is &amp;quot;trashy&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;bad&amp;quot;, I know its a pretty vague question and doesn't help that you don't know much about me but some insight on this would help ease my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10348" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-02T17:02:38.210" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T10:56:56.393" Title="Is there an objective level of quality that one must achieve in order to create manga/begin cartooning?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-02T17:57:56.603" Score="1" ViewCount="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations on what type of glue I should use to glue snail shells vertically on a wall?  Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10349" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T17:57:56.603" Title="Glue Snail Shells to a wall" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2021-02-02T18:38:04.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8855" CreationDate="2021-02-02T18:26:29.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thought it would be useful to show what I did and the results. So, in the end I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaned the metal corrosion off using vinegar. Initially with a cotton bud but then I switched to gently rubbing using a scouring pad. I checked the vinegar didn't affect the wood/stain first on a small patch underneath first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PgvfX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PgvfX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/98m1y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/98m1y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oiled the box with mineral oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JV1QO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JV1QO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was pretty happy with the results, apart from the discolouration you can see in the top left of front of the lid. I tried to stain it with black boot polish, which is what I suspect was used in the first place, but it didn't do much. I might try again with something else at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10197" LastActivityDate="2021-02-02T18:26:29.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8953" CreationDate="2021-02-03T00:11:40.960" Score="3" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question of art and science. I've sampled, scanned all Polychromos pencils (and yes others have pointed the folly of such attempt in terms of color veracity, I still found it and interesting experiment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result is below. Mathematically it's correct for hue and saturation. Value element isn't included which results in some interesting artefacts in placement of cold/warm greys. Any thoughts where/how you'd place them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iipMq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iipMq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;101 White (RGB): #f5f7fb&#xA;102 Creat (RGB): #f2f3b9&#xA;103 Ivort (RGB): #f2f4e6&#xA;104 Light Yellow Glaze (RGB): #feff5b&#xA;105 Light Cadmium Yellow (RGB): #fefd5c&#xA;106 Light Chrome Yellow (RGB): #fdf861&#xA;107 Cadmium Yellow (RGB): #fef638&#xA;108 Dark Cadmium Yellow (RGB): #f2b821&#xA;109 Dark Chrome Yellow (RGB): #e9a041&#xA;110 Phthalo Blue (RGB): #128de4&#xA;111 Cadmium Orange (RGB): #e7884c&#xA;112 Leaf Green (RGB): #17c743&#xA;113 Orange Glaze (RGB): #ea5749&#xA;115 Dark Cadmium Orange (RGB): #ea584a&#xA;117 Light Cadmium red (RGB): #eb4e57&#xA;118 Scarlet Red (RGB): #e03d5b&#xA;119 Light Magenta (RGB): #df9ce4&#xA;120 Ultramarine (RGB): #5d81ee&#xA;121 Pale Geranium Lake (RGB): #e4335a&#xA;123 Fuchsia (RGB): #db439f&#xA;124 Rose Carmine (RGB): #e25c8a&#xA;125 Middle Purple Pink (RGB): #d13da6&#xA;126 Permanent Carmine (RGB): #d42758&#xA;127 Pink Carmine (RGB): #dd4584&#xA;128 Light Purple Pink (RGB): #e05bb1&#xA;129 Pink Madder Lake (RGB): #e37ec2&#xA;130 Dark Flesh (RGB): #e684a5&#xA;131 Medium Flesh (RGB): #dd7b89&#xA;132 Light Flesh (RGB): #e5bbb2&#xA;133 Magenta (RGB): #aa4069&#xA;134 Crimson (RGB): #b85bba&#xA;135 Light Red-Violet (RGB): #a358a9&#xA;136 Purple Violet (RGB): #7f4cc6&#xA;137 Blue Violet (RGB): #6345c5&#xA;138 Violet (RGB): #9f6dd8&#xA;140 Light Ultramarine (RGB): #86adf8&#xA;141 Delft Blue (RGB): #4835aa&#xA;142 Madder (RGB): #ce4f77&#xA;143 Cobalt Blue (RGB): #0a7dd5&#xA;144 Cobalt Blue-Greenish (RGB): #0b70cb&#xA;145 Light Phthalo Blue (RGB): #68bcf8&#xA;146 Smalt Blue (RGB): #87b1f8&#xA;149 Bluish Turquoise (RGB): #077dc0&#xA;151 Helioblue-Reddish (RGB): #2579d4&#xA;152 Middle Phthalo Blue (RGB): #0a91e7&#xA;153 Cobalt Turquoise (RGB): #078eb0&#xA;154 Light Cobalt Turquoise (RGB): #69d1e9&#xA;155 Helio Turquoise (RGB): #0d7f92&#xA;156 Cobalt Green (RGB): #23bdc9&#xA;157 Dark Indigo (RGB): #3c4b65&#xA;158 Deep Cobalt Green (RGB): #177f71&#xA;159 Hooker's Green (RGB): #2c9d68&#xA;160 Manganese Violet (RGB): #9954b8&#xA;161 Phthalo Green (RGB): #01ae8b&#xA;162 Light Phthalo Green (RGB): #1ad396&#xA;163 Emerald Green (RGB): #0cc98b&#xA;165 Juniper Green (RGB): #43865f&#xA;166 Grass Green (RGB): #6ad94e&#xA;167 Permanent Green Olive (RGB): #67983b&#xA;168 Earth Green Yellowish (RGB): #a6c565&#xA;169 Caput Mortuum (RGB): #8c5156&#xA;170 May Green (RGB): #bedb62&#xA;171 Light Green (RGB): #9fe56a&#xA;172 Earth Green (RGB): #879f85&#xA;173 Olive Green Yellowish (RGB): #71724a&#xA;174 Chrome Green Opaque (RGB): #738454&#xA;175 Sepia (RGB): #5d5556&#xA;176 Van Dyck Brown (RGB): #765e5b&#xA;177 Walnut Brown (RGB): #655051&#xA;178 Nougat (RGB): #947362&#xA;179 Bistre (RGB): #8f6745&#xA;180 Raw Umber (RGB): #a1713f&#xA;181 Payne's Gray (RGB): #5f6168&#xA;182 Brown Ochre (RGB): #af7a42&#xA;183 Light Yellow Ochre (RGB): #e0b536&#xA;184 Dark Naples Ochre (RGB): #f9e065&#xA;185 Naples Yellow (RGB): #fdee5e&#xA;186 Terracotta (RGB): #d69f6a&#xA;187 Burnt Ochre (RGB): #c6864f&#xA;188 Sanguine (RGB): #c55948&#xA;189 Cinnamon (RGB): #d59992&#xA;190 Venetian Red (RGB): #cb6361&#xA;191 Pompeian Red (RGB): #d35e70&#xA;192 Indian Red (RGB): #a54851&#xA;193 Burnt Carmine (RGB): #a24e6b&#xA;194 Red-Violet (RGB): #904a6a&#xA;199 Black (RGB): #4d4c51&#xA;205 Cadmium Yellow Lemon (RGB): #f6fe4c&#xA;217 Middle Cadmium Red (RGB): #c14149&#xA;219 Deep Scarlet Red (RGB): #d92c56&#xA;223 Deep Red (RGB): #de4f64&#xA;225 Dark Red (RGB): #b03d4c&#xA;226 Alizarin Crimson (RGB): #d42e64&#xA;230 Cold Gray I (RGB): #d4dbe5&#xA;231 Cold Gray II (RGB): #c8cfd8&#xA;232 Cold Gray III (RGB): #a0a8b2&#xA;233 Cold Gray IV (RGB): #97989d&#xA;234 Cold Gray U (RGB): #8d8f95&#xA;235 Cold Gray VI (RGB): #5d5e62&#xA;246 Prussian Blue (RGB): #216da6&#xA;247 Indanthrene Blue (RGB): #354491&#xA;249 Mauve (RGB): #6f49c2&#xA;250 Gold (RGB): #aba99f&#xA;251 Silver (RGB): #b4bbc9&#xA;252 Copper (RGB): #9e968f&#xA;263 Caput Mortuum Violet (RGB): #83515a&#xA;264 Dark Phthalo Green (RGB): #06a474&#xA;266 Permanent Green (RGB): #0b9a3c&#xA;267 Pine Green (RGB): #286d40&#xA;268 Green Gold (RGB): #c7a539&#xA;270 Warm Gray I (RGB): #d3d4d6&#xA;271 Warm Gray II (RGB): #c7c7c7&#xA;272 Warm Gray III (RGB): #a9a8a8&#xA;273 Warm Gray IV (RGB): #7d7b7c&#xA;274 Warm Gray V (RGB): #5c5a5d&#xA;275 Warm Gray VI (RGB): #444346&#xA;276 Chrome Oxide Green Fiery (RGB): #01a07c&#xA;278 Chrome Oxide Green (RGB): #395d43&#xA;280 Burnt Umber (RGB): #75554a&#xA;283 Burnt Sienna (RGB): #8d6356&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10111" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T17:34:34.670" Title="Where to place grays on Polychromos color wheel?" Tags="|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-03T00:57:31.060" Score="6" ViewCount="1678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what are some good ways for children to learn to draw. Is it best for them to start by trying to copy things they see in front of them, like simple things such as cups or windows, leaves, trees... Are there any gold standard books which are used in good art schools for kids to help kids increase their skill in drawing? Is it best to just use blank paper? I am just unsure of how to best help a child learn to draw cause I am myself not very good at it. Please recommend some kids drawing books written by real artists who wrote the book with the intention to show the true essence of learning how to draw. I'm not sure what common wisdom or what most art teachers do at the best art schools but when I read things like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jstor.org/stable/3193465?seq=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Copy?...Real Artists Don't Copy&lt;/a&gt; I wonder if there are some common methods in use today at good art schools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10350" LastEditorUserId="10350" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T01:02:52.423" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T18:03:55.377" Title="How should a child first learn to draw?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8950" CreationDate="2021-02-03T01:23:20.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to teach them is to give them exposure to materials and drawing tools and let them express themselves freely. As they grow and mature, their drawings will become more detailed and reflect the world around them.&#xA;It really depends on their age...&#xA;I would recommend you to start teaching them in a slow way, start with simple exercises like:&#xA;In the journal's first line, they can draw circles, then in the second line, dashes then lines zigzagging, etc&#xA;Then you can put them to copy things around them like apples, shoes, trees, and stuff, its a matter of practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T01:23:20.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8950" CreationDate="2021-02-03T07:29:21.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem in this question is the age of the child.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we're talking pre-teen, then I see no chance that the child will spend regular time practicing pen strokes or how to draw straight lines, because &lt;em&gt;that simply isn't fun&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Children want to have fun. Coloring books are fun because you can achieve a pretty result without putting too much effort in it. Drawing mom as a stick figure an declaring that &amp;quot;it looks like mom&amp;quot; is fun because it's quick and sufficient to express what the child intended. Indeed, this art of reducing the real-world information to the minimum required to recognize the object can still be helpful as an adult if you happen to design graphical user interfaces for computer or phone apps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What you need most is listening to what the child wants.&lt;/strong&gt; Do they want stick-figure-mom to look more realistic? Or do they just want to express their phantasy by creating colorful blobs on paper? Are they interested in drawing comics or mangas? Or do they want to create cool tribal style tatoos? The only thing they will practice voluntarily are the things they truely want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since all of the above examples require very different techniques, there is no one book or one art class we can suggest. But there are many different books and online sources that cater to teens and young adults and teach them how to (better) execute one single art style. One of the all-time classics is figure drawing where you start drawing a cat by linking a few circles together, and in each chapter the circles get more and more pronounced until you only need them as guidelines for the finished cat. The same is true for comic and manga drawing books where you're shown how to simplify the human body by linking circles and rectangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to observe what kind of art the child is creating now and asking them what they love drawing the most. Then translate that to adult terms like &amp;quot;figure drawing&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;landscape drawing&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;still lifes&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;comic art&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;water color&amp;quot; or whatnot and go looking for one very short beginner tutorial (either as book or online; I personally prefer books because you can easily find them again and reread a chapter if you forgot. Printing an online tutorial is a cheap alternative). Give it to your child and let them explore without any pressure. They might forget about it for a year and then suddenly be in the mood again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't give them more than 2 books at once, it might feel overwhelming. Don't go for the thickest book available, those are usually intended for older and more advanced students. Don't be discouraged if your child finds a particular book unhelpful, they might not have the required skill yet, but will probably return to it once they acquired the skill level. If your child tells you that a certain book doesn't help them at all, listen to them and ask them what they expected / want to read about, then go looking for a different book that covers those topics. Even if you have no idea about drawing at all, you probably are able to recognize those topics if you see them in a book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the question of copying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copying reference images is the first step for almost all professional artists, because it's the best way to produce encouraging results and learn the required technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Portrait artists spend countless hours copying photos of peoples faces. Landscape artists spend countless hours copying landscape photos. Comic artists spend countless hours copying photos of people in different poses. It's the best way to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, the step away from reference photos to your own imagination is a hard one, but forcing a child to take this step even before they learned things like shading or body proportions (by copying photos) is extremely discouraging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by the way: The full title of the article you linked is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Copy?...Real Artists Don't Copy!&amp;quot; but Maybe Children Should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article talks about how children are discouraged from copying artwork from their peers and teachers in an attempt to encourage originality. But how is a child supposed to create &amp;quot;beautiful&amp;quot; original art if they were never allowed to learn the technique by copying existing beautiful art? If a child can only compare their own stick-figure cat with a real cat, their judgement of their own skills will be devastating. If they can compare their drawing with a stick-figure cat of another child, they will see their own skills in a much better and realistic way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T07:29:21.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8949" CreationDate="2021-02-03T08:09:14.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have 3 different variables: Hue, Value (aka Lightnes or Brighness) and Saturation (aka Chroma).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have limited your graphical representation to 2 of those variables and get some unintuitive results. If you want to make the result seem more natural / intuitive, you need to represent all 3 variables in 3 dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two examples of 3-dimensional color representations can be found in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HSL_and_HSV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page &amp;quot;HSL and HSV&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1h30.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O1h30.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Representation of HSL (Hue, Saturation / Chroma, Lightness)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UflGy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UflGy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Representation of HSL (Hue, Saturation / Chroma, Value)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would put darker greys at the bottom of the figure and lighter greys at the top. Some of your very light greys (like 271) seem to be misplaced to me because they have a lower saturation &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; brighness than their position in your graphic indicates. I'm not sure how that happened, maybe you need to adapt the algorithm that placed them there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T08:09:14.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8950" CreationDate="2021-02-03T09:58:41.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't specify an age, so here's an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a 7-year-old who has always liked drawing (and currently wants to be an artist when she grows up!).  She likes books, reads loads, appreciates the detail in the illustrations, but hasn't got on with drawing from books.  Here's what has worked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Video tutorials of something the child likes (age-appropriate complexity). In my daughter's  case that's cartoon animals, especially &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBpgrJijMpk_pyp9uTbxLdg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rob Biddulph's YouTube channel&lt;/a&gt;. He's a children's author/illustrator who has put loads online in the last year.  I can see her skill increase from the first time she did them in summer to now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw together.  I'm pretty rubbish but can have a bash at something from a book tutorial while she's drawing something else, or follow along with the cartoon animals, and customise them into characters, making up the details as we go along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thinking (together, but she does the drawing) of ways to represent things on paper - drawing a map, or illustrating a process.  This is a nice complement to copying a tutorial or trying to draw what she sees as closely as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this young age it's still about the basics for most kids - fun and practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T10:08:24.587" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T10:08:24.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8950" CreationDate="2021-02-03T16:13:45.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start Drawing Early. Research has shown that even infants can recognize shapes used to make up a drawing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teach the Shapes. (all drawings are made up of shapes, for example, a house's roof is a triangle, the body is a rectangle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Encourage Creativity. (Give them ideas!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw with Your Child. (You can see how they learn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Demonstrate Technique.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it! But as Elmy said, if your child doesn't want to draw, it would be very difficult to teach them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-02-03T22:15:25.987" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T22:15:25.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8950" CreationDate="2021-02-03T21:03:38.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no interest in art and was surprised when my eldest became fascinated by drawing at the age of 10. She figured out how to teach herself. These are the steps she took:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Borrows books from the library on how to draw Anime characters. Everything is broken down step by step. The figures are simple. Does this for a year.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uses birthday money to buy a book on how to draw dragons. Works through the examples over the following year.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learns perspective drawing at school. Continues to practice on her own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mom springs for summer art classes. Kid learns to mix colours and draw from life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 15, sets goal of drawing every day. More practice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mom springs for more art lessons, including human models (minor ethical crisis at nude models. Nothing bad happens).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kid uses birthday money to buy books full of photos - like plants or motorcycles. Practices drawing things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High school offers art courses; kid attends. Learns various media.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kid currently 23 year old software engineer. Draws whatever she wants from life or from her imagination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it took over 10 years of frequent practice. She started with how-to books; progressed to copying from photos; then just started drawing what she saw. She got a small amount of paid instruction, and several courses through the school system. It just takes a tremendous amount of patience and attention to detail. If the kid doesn't want it, it's not going to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10363" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-04T07:37:48.840" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T07:37:48.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1750" CreationDate="2021-02-03T23:58:58.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option to use instead of cardboard is corrugated plastic which comes waterproof, and that would allow you to skip that step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2021-02-03T23:58:58.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-04T06:05:48.607" Score="5" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a paper craft artist. I make 3D pepakura models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While making the models, if the model is made of white paper, it becomes a little bit dirty because of glue stains. Also, over time, because of dust, the model becomes dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I clean these paper models of stains and dust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9703" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T18:11:01.510" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T18:11:01.510" Title="How can I clean a paper model?" Tags="|paper|pepakura|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8961" CreationDate="2021-02-04T10:29:49.343" Score="2" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a face out of silicone and bond fishing line to particular parts of the face so that I can use the fishing line like a muscle but I can’t find a glue that would work on silicone. Is there another way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10364" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T06:23:08.310" Title="Is there a way to bond silicone to nylon?" Tags="|adhesives|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8959" CreationDate="2021-02-04T11:35:09.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look into making holes into the silicone face and feeding the line through.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you plan on using monofilament line a tiny hole and the line cut at an angle will already work, the line working as its own needle.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Braided line will need stiffening or a needle to feed it through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a good double or tripple knot out of sight to secure the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T11:35:09.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8959" CreationDate="2021-02-04T11:35:59.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you use a molding silicone or a specialized prosthetic silicone for film and theater masks. The chemical compositions of those kinds of silicone are designed to &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; stick to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Construction silicone, on the other hand, is designed to stick to as many materials as possible. You could try applying construction silicone to the mask, but I haven't tested if this actually works. There's also the risk that the construction silicone could &amp;quot;melt&amp;quot; through the prosthetic silicone. This melting process usually takes several days to months, so better try it on a waste piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more promising approach is to embed an anchor in the mask where the muscle would be. The simplest anchor would be a key ring or a washer to which the fishing line is already tied. The mask must be thick enough to enclose the anchor on all sides or it might be pulled out. You can achieve a better bond and more natural movements by cuting a piece of mesh (any grid-like material made of metal, plastic or fabric) into the shape of the muscle, tying the fishing line to it and embedding the mesh where the natural muscle would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T06:23:08.310" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T06:23:08.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-04T13:35:06.957" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or make the problem worse cause I would be relying on the grid to make my drawings straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about the grid method, just free-drawing on a dot grid or something. Even when I draw reference/center lines they end up slightly slanted and so does the rest of the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10366" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T13:35:06.957" Title="I have a problem drawing slanted, would grid paper help?" Tags="|drawing|sketching|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2021-04-16T20:04:20.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2021-02-04T16:01:58.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Begin cleaning by gently brushing the surface of the object with a soft brush to remove loose dirt and dust. If soiling is heavy, brush debris into a HEPA vacuum with cheesecloth over the nozzle to catch any bits of paper that may come loose accidentally. Just don't apply the vacuum hose directly onto the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T16:01:58.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2021-02-04T19:51:39.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure your hands are clean before you start, and if they pick up dirt in the process, be careful not to re-apply that dirt to the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by picking up the model and tipping it over so most of the dust falls off. Gently shake and tap the model to loosen up the dust and encourage it to fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then gently blow on it to further remove the loose dust. You can blow on it using just your mouth, or you can use canned air (available at computer supply stores) or a blower bulb (from a photography supply store). Practice against your hand to make sure you're blowing only air, without any spit. You can use a straw to concentrate your air stream and direct it exactly where you want it. Before using canned air or a blower bulb on your model, practice against your hand until you know how far away to hold the can or bulb to get an air stream that won't damage the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a soft brush (like a paintbrush) to dust out crevices and clean the stickier dust off of surfaces. You might want several different sizes of paintbrush - larger ones for cleaning larger, nearly flat areas, and smaller brushes for cleaning out tiny details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your model has a water-resistant coating, use a damp cloth to wipe off any stubborn dirt patches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A protective coating will also make your model sturdier, so you're less likely to damage it when you handle it for cleaning. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, people often use varnish or resin as a coating for pepakura models. You can also fill a model with spray foam to make it more durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T19:51:39.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8969" CreationDate="2021-02-04T21:28:14.523" Score="4" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the picture below.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In most rollerball pens there are those peculiar looking disks near the nib, the purpose of which I have not yet figured out, apart from being some kind of ink reservoir/flow control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-uniform separation between the disks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The further away from the tip, the smaller the separation. My guess would be that towards the top end of the &amp;quot;plates column&amp;quot;/bottom of the cartridge where the ink pressure is the highest, the liquid ink has more tendency to gush out, the denser plates serve as an &amp;quot;impedance&amp;quot; to avoid this from happening, and that a smaller &amp;quot;impedance&amp;quot; is required in the lower end to help the ink flowing when exiting the column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat edges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all disks are circular as some have asymmetrical flat edges on them. I'm not sure why this is, apart from preventing the ink from jamming on the top?...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reasoning seems very inadequate so I'd like some explanation as to why they have such a specific design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRWYz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRWYz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two flat disks, which clearly serve a purpose. Also, notice that there are rings of ink being formed around the disks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBEtV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBEtV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Pilot V5/V7, Uniball Rollerpens, Sakura, etc., for reference; this is a common feature found in a lot of Japanese pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10244" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T17:33:13.160" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T17:33:13.160" Title="What is the purpose of the ink delivery disks found in most rollerball pens?" Tags="|pens|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8949" CreationDate="2021-02-05T01:08:33.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After changes as suggested by @user7660047 and inversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJTb8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJTb8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10111" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T01:08:33.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8946" CreationDate="2021-02-05T10:56:56.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, in reference to your title, &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;in order to create&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; no level of skill or experience is necessary at all - you simply have to start creating&lt;/strong&gt;. This applies to things ranging from making a simple drawing to making a film. The fact that you know what you want to create shows you have a sufficient idea of what that particular thing is and/or what it means for you (in your case manga).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the body of your question, you'd need to define what you consider &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;doing things seriously&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. Assuming you are not merely talking about personal joy and satisfaction (which is a different conversation), I am guessing that with 'seriously' you mean 'professionally', or at least 'worthwhile in the eyes of others' (leaving a similar amount of interpretive freedom for the word 'worthwhile').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, &lt;strong&gt;ultimately it is about audience&lt;/strong&gt;: if you can find an audience for your work, you may consider it serious enough.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And if you want to make a living creating manga, you need an audience that's willing to pay you for your efforts.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Getting an audience is a different matter, but you can start by creating profiles for online platforms like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instagram&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.deviantart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deviant Art&lt;/a&gt;, creating a personal website, or looking for (virtual or physical) magazines that publish (amateur) comics. The higher the quality, the easier you will grow a following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Credentials and education play an important role in showing others that you have made efforts, and have the experience. As you can deduce, &lt;strong&gt;not being able to produce credentials is by no means proof of not having put in the practice&lt;/strong&gt;. Similar to job applications, I feel we as a society have become so accustomed to proof-in-writing, that even though it has its practical benefits, a lack of it is often considered a deficiency in skill and experience, or suspicious at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do your best to create what you want to create. Keep trying, keep learning, and remain critical.&lt;/strong&gt; The rest will likely follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T10:56:56.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8965" CreationDate="2021-02-05T11:48:20.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your reasoning actually comes quite close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a quote through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quora.com/Whats-the-purpose-of-the-series-of-baffles-near-the-business-end-of-the-Pilot-Precise-V5-V7-Rolling-Ball-pen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quora&lt;/a&gt;, credited to John Lienhard from the University of Houston after having contacted Pilot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;The trick is to keep just the right amount of ink in contact with the wick that feeds the delicate roller ball tip. The discs are baffles that balance the forces of surface tension against air flow resistance. Regardless of the angle, just the right amount of ink stays in contact with the wick&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pen's &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;containers need &lt;strong&gt;complex baffles that let surface tension position the liquids&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, which makes sure that &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;the pen writes beautifully in any orientation.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Pilot's words, as used to promote their pens on various commercial websites:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;The V System ink regulator is a direct result of Pilot's fountain pen technology. &lt;strong&gt;If excess ink flows from the ink reservoir while writing, it is temporarily stored in the special pen core by capillary action.&lt;/strong&gt; In that way, amount of ink flowing to the pen point always stays constant. This mechanism ensures that the ink supply remains stable to the last drop.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This disc-system is similar to those found on fountain pens, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fountain_pen#/media/File:Visconti-detail-1.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; called a &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;finned ink buffering structure&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEBxgm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEBxgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T11:48:20.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8974" CreationDate="2021-02-05T19:44:14.733" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to sand/polish resin mold crafts. Most of the pieces I work with are around 2&amp;quot; on their widest sides. I am looking into a belt sander to avoid the manual process of sanding by hand. So far I only see two kinds of belt sanders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flex shaft belt sanders, that range from 1/2&amp;quot; to 1&amp;quot; width sanding belts. This is not ideal, since it would result in uneven sanding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table top belt sanders. It is easy enough to find 4&amp;quot; wide belt sanders like this, but these are extremely large bulk devices, and they offer no foot pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does there exist a device that can meet in the middle somewhere? Is it possible to jerry-rig a system using a flex shaft onto a table top belt sander, or attach a wider belt to flex shaft belt sander attachments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10371" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T03:34:13.987" Title="is there such a thing as a wide belt sander attached to a flex shaft?" Tags="|tool-selection|epoxy-resin|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8975" CreationDate="2021-02-05T23:28:46.467" Score="5" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received a large hardback book I ordered online, only to find it was damaged during the mail process. There's a tear in the cover just on the back edge of the spine. It's not a huge tear, but it's unsightly and definitely has the potential to worsen and further damage the book.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i5j3a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i5j3a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I'm wondering if anybody would have suggestions on how to best repair this damage and/or protect the rest of the book. I'd just tape it up, but I know that adhesives can have adverse affects on paper via aging, acids, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A search online for a solution to this problem only seems to throw up tutorials on completely replacing a book spine, reattaching a separated cover, etc - but I imagine there has to be some knowledge out there about a common, relatively small problem like this. Any thoughts or advice? Is there somewhere else I should be asking? Complete book repair newbie here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T04:09:21.173" Title="How can I best repair or protect this torn cover?" Tags="|material-selection|paper|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8970" CreationDate="2021-02-06T03:34:13.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic issue is the required power.  Belt sanders are designed for aggressive removal of material.  The larger the surface area that is sanded, the more power it takes.  At 1/2&amp;quot; to 1&amp;quot; wide belts, the required power is low enough that small motors can handle the job.  Flexible shafts can also handle that (they have limited strength).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 4&amp;quot; wide belts, you need big motors, and a heavy duty structure to support everything.  You can find handheld 2&amp;quot; belt sanders that are within the power range that can be battery powered.  You probably don't want to work with a belt the same size as your piece for the same reason you don't want to work with a smaller belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reasonable compromise would be a 3&amp;quot; handheld belt sander that you secure in a fixture that you make or in a clamping work table.  The motors for these are typically over 800 watts, which means they're normally plug-in, not battery-powered (although there are a few pricey professional-grade battery-powered ones).  There's a selection of inexpensive consumer models at the big retailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When not in use, the sander is the size of a handheld power tool, so it's easy to find a storage place.  The clamping work tables typically fold for storage, and are handy for a variety of uses (it is a general purpose work table, not a dedicated part of a sander).  You could make a tabletop fixture for the sander that would be relatively compact.  A 3&amp;quot; sander and fixture would be considerably smaller and lighter than a 4&amp;quot; tabletop sander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen videos of hobbyists who have made their own belt sander from wood and other available supplies that they power with a drill.  A drill motor will have enough power for very light duty sanding, but any significant load is likely to damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T03:34:13.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8973" CreationDate="2021-02-06T04:09:21.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to repair, one of the easiest would be to use book repair tape. There are several different ones available through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/categories/studio/tape/bookbinding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dick Blick&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two that I have used in the past and have worked well are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/lineco-spine-repair-tape/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lineco Spine Repair Tape&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/scotch-845-book-tape/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M Scotch #845 Book Tape&lt;/a&gt;. The first is basically a cloth tape available in both black and white. The 3M tape is a thick, clear tape if you want still want to be able to see the spine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer the 3M tape (mainly for being able to see the spine). My recommendation is to cover the entire spine of the book and to extend the tape at least 1&amp;quot; from the top and bottom. Then fold the tape down in between the cover and the book pages. Trim the foldover into a trapezoid shape for ease of insertion. Once you have taped the spine, leave the book closed for a day or longer so the adhesive in the tape can bond securely to the cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9726" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T04:09:21.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8631" CreationDate="2021-02-06T11:20:39.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my work we had this problem with plastic sheets which we send to a customer, (plastic does not warp but its static charge changed enough to give printing problems.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution was to wrap the sheets in a waterproof layer of plastic in small(ish) numbers to the customer never had more than for a few days near his printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, your suggestion of wrapping your paper inside a closed plastic bag will work, but you have to do that as soon as it reaches the house or even before you bring it into the house, so you do not enclose humidity with it.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Once the paper is warped (or humid in any other way) plastic will only enclose the 'water' and promote mold and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One block of paper per plastic covering, or a few sheets if you use them as single sheet. So you can keep the rest of your supplies safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put some of those packets with gel in with your paper, those that take up the humidity. I guess they will be for sale in bigger numbers, I have not looked for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T11:20:39.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8980" CreationDate="2021-02-06T17:14:06.317" Score="2" ViewCount="557" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all forgive me for not using the correct term for this. I know there is a proper name for the very first mold that is used to create casting jackets, but I cannot remember what it is. Hopefully my description will be sufficient, or maybe someone can in due time post an edit with the proper term in order to improve this question, which I would be very much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create 2 very basic shapes and I am planning on using silicone casting to make them, but I need a reference object first in order to create those casts. I am trying to find out what would be an easy to obtain, and easy to shape material that I can use at home to create these two shapes by hand, with minimal tools required (a simple file, chisel, easy and basic tools that can be found in general hardware stores):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuNBp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuNBp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are examples of the two objects I want to create. They are about 1mm or 2mm, I'll be playing with those dimensions after. One is a simple flat square piece with rounded corners and the other is a squared short tube with no bottom (in the photo there is a bottom, but for what I want there won't be one) and rounded corners as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of material can I easily obtain in order for me to shape them into these &amp;quot;raw&amp;quot; first examples in order to create a silicone cast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it clear, I do not want to find a material that can already be used to create the objects &lt;em&gt;out of the silicone casts&lt;/em&gt;, I just want to find a material that can be easy to find and shape in order be used to &lt;em&gt;create those silicone casts/molds&lt;/em&gt; first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Information requested.&#xA;The 1mm or 2mm are the thickness of the walls of the hollow shapes and the thickness of the flat pieces. This does not need a lot of precision, but shouldn't deviate too much, about 0.5mm or it might be trickier for what I need. It will not require that much precision fitting, these will be used to build a small box, like those typical ring boxes from jewelry stores, that is less than 4cm all around and they will be lined, so the surface finishing is also not necessary to be perfect, but if it can be sanded it will be even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already looked for rectangular tubing, but for these dimensions where I live none exists. It's either too big, too small or not available in plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also already looked into 3d printing, but the options I have available are closed down because of covid, and the ones that are open are too expensive due to min-order purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10268" LastEditorUserId="10268" LastEditDate="2021-02-06T18:45:37.963" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T03:30:50.167" Title="Easy shaping material to use as blank/base/reference for silicone casting/molding" Tags="|material-selection|casting|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8978" CreationDate="2021-02-06T19:40:10.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The terminology varies from &amp;quot;industry&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;industry&amp;quot; but the concepts are the same. I watched years ago a video teaching creation of molds from fiberglass cloth. The original was called a plug, the mold was created from the plug and the part was created from the mold.&#xA;In jewelry casting, the concept is the same, but the words are different enough that I was chastised online for using the wrong words. Their plug is called a pattern and the rest doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't indicated what you'll be using for the casting material and that's not necessarily critical, as one can use casting resin or, with high temperature silicone, molten metal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your post states that one possible plug/pattern is not available in plastic. The material of the plug should not be a concern, as silicone sticks to nothing other than silicone. Mold release can be used for ease of separation, but is not always required. A metal original will release just as easily as a plastic, wood or clay version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fixer1234's suggestion is certainly a valid one, if your objective is to create the plug/pattern, the shape of which will be that of the finished part. Sculpting clay that can be sanded and shaped by tooling after curing will provide for a finish limited only by your patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies to 3D printed plugs/patterns. There will be layer lines, but they can be sanded smooth, or with ABS, vapor smoothed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that aspect, consider to locate a makerspace in your area. Our makerspace is closed due to quarantine, but our online resource is active and I've taken on commissions from people who need 3D prints made at non-commercial rates. You may find similar results in your area. With the internet, it doesn't have to be local, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For wall thickness design considerations, use a multiple of 0.4 mm to ensure good results. The most common nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. If you need something near a 1.0 mm wall, you'd want to design in a 1.2 mm wall. For 1.5 mm, design at 1.6 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-02-06T19:40:10.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8978" CreationDate="2021-02-07T03:30:50.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are still a couple of ambiguities in the description, so I'll try to cover a few variations on what you've described, including a possible alternate approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resin casting as the &amp;quot;finished&amp;quot; item&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question describes the objective of making a small box, similar to a ring box, that will be lined internally.  The scenario I'll describe in this first case is that the cast resin result will be the exterior of the finished box, possibly with some kind of finish.  So the plug/pattern needs to have an exterior that is smooth and polished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an observation: you show hollow tubes plus flat ends if I understand the description correctly.  You may have a reason for keeping them separate, or may be planning to join them prior to making the mold.  Just a heads up that this shape is typically cast as a single item when making things like boxes and coasters, so you may not need the flat pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, the mold is made &amp;quot;upside down&amp;quot;.  The pattern would be just the hollow tube at the full height of the finished box (including the bottom).  The mold box is a little higher than the tube to allow for a base layer of silicone that holds everything together, and the tube is hung from the top of the box.  The mold around the tube is partially filled with silicone (to above the bottom of the tube), which is allowed to partially cure just to the point that it doesn't flow.  Then silicone is added outside the tube to the height of the tube.  The inside of the tube is filled with silicone to below the top of the tube, the distance from the top being the thickness of the bottom of the box.  The mold cavity will then give you the entire box in one pour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer by fred_dot_u does a pretty good job of covering some of the major options for this case.  I'll just reiterate that for the tubing approach, there is a broad range of rectangular metal tubing available in aluminum, brass, and steel, and there should be a common standard size close to what you describe.  If you go the clay route, many air dry clays will work or use epoxy clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you use to make the pattern, if you're going for the resin or lucite look, you will need to be meticulous with the pattern surface.  You will probably want to polish it to a mirror finish.  Anything short of that will show up as artifacts in the casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be aware that walls that are too thin will be a bear to cast.  It will be a challenge to completely fill the wall channel without voids, and trapped bubbles will be a problem, especially if you don't use a vacuum chamber.  You will need to use a resin designed for thin castings or it may not cure correctly, and it will need to be very thoroughly mixed.  Super-thin walls may not hold up to a lot of handling, especially if the resin is on the brittle side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resin casting as a skeleton that will be completely covered&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the resin casting will just provide structure that will be wrapped externally and lined internally, there are a lot more options.  The pattern doesn't need to be polished.  In fact, an irregular surface will provide better adhesion for gluing the wrapping and lining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some additional options for making a rectangular tubular pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start with a &lt;strong&gt;round plastic tube&lt;/strong&gt; of the desired wall thickness and a diameter approximately 1-1/4 times the length of a side.  Make a length of wood with a square cross section that matches the box internal size (there may be a standard piece of square trim close to the size you want).  Taper one end by rounding off the corners.  Soften the tube inside and out with a heat gun at a low setting until the tube is rubbery, being careful not to scorch the plastic.  Force the tube over the tapered end and onto the square area of the wood, continuing to apply heat until the tube is in place on the form.  Let it cool.  Knock out the wooden core.  You can make a longish squared tube and then cut it to length to make multiple pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to &lt;strong&gt;heat shrink sleeves cut from PETE soda bottles&lt;/strong&gt; (500 ml size for this application; they can be shrunken to roughly half-size).  Start with a bottle that has a simple, cylindrical portion, and cut out an overly long sleeve of the cylindrical part (you may get several plugs by cutting to size at the end).  Put it over the wood form and go over it all around with a heat gun at the low setting.  Keep moving the gun around to heat the whole thing and give the heat time to migrate through the thickness rather than working one spot at a time.  This will give even shrinkage for a good form fit and avoid melt holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need around three layers for a minimum wall thickness.  Once the layer is a good form fit, slide another sleeve over it and repeat.  With proper heating the layers will fuse together, at least well enough for this purpose.  This technique can take a little practice to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, this technique can be used for other purposes.  It will make a strong repair of broken wood handles, and can be used to quickly make adapters for things like vacuum cleaner attachments of non-matching sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wrap a form to create a tube.&lt;/strong&gt;  Use either a squared wooden form as in the previous case, or mark the square cross section on a wood base, drill clearance holes at the corners, and insert four nails (you want them snug but removable).  Use one or the other as appropriate, depending on the wrapping material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For options that involve glue, you can wrap the wood or nails with baking paper for no-mess release.  There are endless materials for making the pattern.  For materials that are thinner than the needed wall thickness, make several layers, which can be glued together (the glue just needs to keep things in place while you make the mold; high adhesion isn't needed).  Materials you can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strips cut from polyethylene jugs.&lt;/strong&gt;  Warm at the form corners and it will bend cleanly.  You won't need any mold release for the silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wrap a tight coil of &lt;strong&gt;cotton twine/string&lt;/strong&gt; of diameter matching the desired wall thickness (i.e., create a tube of string).  Thoroughly saturate the string with super glue (original thin liquid).  Do this with good ventilation as it will release a lot of fumes.  It will harden into a hard plastic tube.  The string ridges will provide a good surface for gluing the box cover and lining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Similar to above, but wrap several layers of &lt;strong&gt;cotton fabric&lt;/strong&gt; to create a tube of the needed wall thickness.  Thoroughly saturate the fabric with super glue.  The fabric texture will provide a good gluing surface for the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, these string or fabric shells are sometimes made with colored string or colored/patterned cloth and used as the actual exterior surface (a different, alternative look from the cast resin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wrap a &lt;strong&gt;paper&lt;/strong&gt; strip to the needed wall thickness.  Saturate every few layers with super glue.  An alternative is to pre-saturate the paper with slightly water-thinned PVA glue.  This can take a long time to dry, though.  Card stock will take fewer layers than regular paper but you will need to be meticulous bending around the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cardboard&lt;/strong&gt; can be formed around a wood form.  If you use cereal boxes or notepad backs, you will need to score or steam it at the form corners to get clean, smooth bends.  You will need several layers, which can be glued together with PVA glue.  With cardboard (this bullet or the next), either seal the surface (including the edges), with something like PVA glue or super glue, or smear the surface liberally with Vaseline and let it soak in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Construct a tube from flat stock.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you have a source of very thick cardboard, it can be treated like wood.  Cut the sides to size and glue them together.  Wood can also be used.  Craft sticks that look like tongue depressors will be about the right thickness, and may be wide enough for the height you need.  If not, glue two together edge-to-edge.  This can be reinforced by gluing a sheet of paper onto each side.  The wooden form described earlier can be used for alignment when gluing up the flat stock.  If it is important for the corners to be rounded, that can be done with minor sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make the individual skeletons rather than casting them in resin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cast resin boxes will be used only as a covered skeleton, and the reason for casting them is to make just one pattern and then replicate it simply, and you need only a limited number rather than mass production, it may not be worth the trouble.  As described earlier, very thin-walled castings are difficult and time-consuming.  If you need a lot of them, you would probably want to make a bunch of molds, and silicone isn't cheap.  Thin-walled castings don't use much resin, so the casting process will waste a lot of resin, and resin isn't cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the boxes won't be visible, it may make sense to just make each needed box.  A number of the suggestions for making the pattern are quick and cheap to make, and would be plenty strong enough to use as the actual box skeleton.  Just for context, the skeleton of many small boxes is just cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T03:30:50.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-07T16:23:32.593" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to bind (or have bound) my own eBooks and I don't know how to print the designed covers (with a cover size of B4 paper). I want to replicate the kind of cover used by Amazon for paperback books like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/0201315963&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.  I am trying to identify the cover material and printing process they use.&#xA;For example, what type and specification of the paper, how it is printed, and any post-printing production steps, like coating or lamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9849" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T18:24:57.413" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T08:23:33.557" Title="How to print the cover of an eBook for binding?" Tags="|book-binding|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2021-02-07T19:32:11.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently stumbled across a clever way to make impressive-looking fake leather from craft foam sheets that would be great for costume purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NqFW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NqFW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process is described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Make-Fake-Leather-From-Tinfoil-and-Foam/?utm_source=newsletter&amp;amp;utm_medium=email&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Fake Leather From Tinfoil and Foam! - Instructables&lt;/a&gt;.  The link is a good tutorial.  The process is basically crumpling and then flattening tinfoil to create a wrinkle pattern.  The tinfoil is placed on the foam sheet and pressed with an iron at the lowest setting.  That textures the surface.  A few colors of acrylic paint are wiped to give it the final appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T19:32:11.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-08T09:16:31.290" Score="4" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of making my own sew-on or iron-on embroidery patches. I hope someone here could help with something I can't resolve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In every tutorial I've seen people say you should do the embroidery and then cut it around the edges. But that would leave canvas sticking out of it, wouldn't it. What is the proper way of getting nice neat edges on the patch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10387" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-02-08T14:18:16.087" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T19:00:21.190" Title="How to get neat edges on embroidery patches?" Tags="|embroidery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2331" CreationDate="2021-02-08T19:06:21.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my attenpt to answer the second question: preventing the making of a pet fur garment in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone mentioned buying containers with holes in them for storing the yarn (to prevent hair from getting in it). But you mentioned having a family/being close with your family - so I'm wondering if you have any babies in your family? I kept all my formula cans because, well, craft brain.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Anyways, yarn storage. They're perfect for yarn storage.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;While the smaller cans aren't great for USING the yarn while in said storage, I discovered that they're still great for laying down sideways to pop yarn into (to keep them from rolling around &amp;amp; tangling together. Because, again, mother of an infant, a very, very active infant). You can also still punch a hole in the lids &amp;amp; have some of the yarn coming through that hole for easy identification of the yarn... But the cans are too small to give the yarn enough &amp;quot;wiggle&amp;quot; room to flop about as you knit (or crochet).&#xA;The big cans are perfect for not only storing the yarn, but also keeping the yarn in as you work. You can rinse the cans out before use, but I have been lazy and used large ziploc bags, stuff them inside, and pull the tops around the outside of the can. Fold the plastic lid in half, use a regular hole puncher to punch through both sides. If you have a fancy puncher that can go over the rim of the lid, obviously use that so you aren't stuck with two holes! But I do not... So two holes it is. I believe the larger cans are like 27oz, while the smaller cans are 14oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOHOR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enfamil infant formula can turned into yarn storage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no babies in your family, whipped cream containers are also apparently good, but can't be laid on their sides for easy identification purposes. I've considered using large oats &amp;quot;tube&amp;quot; containers, but I think they may be too narrow to work from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for removing the hair: I actually came here trying to find the same answer. But I did think of one possible solution, which isn't necessarily removing it, but &amp;quot;trimming it down&amp;quot;, haha... So it'll remove any &amp;quot;fuzzies&amp;quot; (especially if you're using more slick/sheen yarn). Basically, buy one of those tools that remove the fuzzies from clothing - to very gently run over the yarn. You could also do this for a finished product but I was thinking before the yarn is stitched. Random, and I haven't tried it, but maybe it'd work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10395" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-06-04T16:40:59.870" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T16:40:59.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2021-02-08T20:14:11.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning paper once it's dirty is hard.  The best solution is to avoid the problem.  There are a few things you can do to minimize the accumulation of dust and dirt that will require cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While making the model, keep the work area clean of paper and other dust and dirt by regularly wiping down the surface.  Wear latex or similar gloves while making the model if practical, or regularly wash and thoroughly dry your hands.  This will minimize getting body oils on the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can, keep the finished item in a display case and minimize handling by people who aren't wearing gloves.  That will keep off dust and body oils.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't display the finished model unprotected in a room with a lot of oil vapor, like a kitchen.  See this earlier question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3070/what-spray-product-could-protect-paper-against-grease&quot;&gt;origami - What spray product could protect paper against grease?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible, consider using baking parchment as the paper for your model (it may be a challenge to print on; if so, see some of the options described on &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8690/printing-on-black-paper&quot;&gt;Printing on Black Paper&lt;/a&gt;).  This paper is impregnated with silicone and much easier to clean (and generally sturdier than regular paper).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As csk's answer suggests, spray the finished piece with a clear finish that will hold up to light cleaning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray the finished piece with anti-static spray to minimize dust from collecting on it and make it easier to blow or vacuum dust off.  There are sprays specifically designed for this that won't stain the paper, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sprayon.com/product/sp610-anti-static-spray/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SP610 Anti-Static Spray&lt;/a&gt; (I haven't used this product, this is just an example).  Static cling spray for clothing is likely to work, but I haven't tested it for any potential to affect the paper's appearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rub the paper stock with a dryer sheet before making the model (but after printing the pattern).  This will transfer some of the anti-static ingredients, but won't be quite as effective as spraying the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T20:14:11.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8939" CreationDate="2021-02-09T02:37:30.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up getting a folding canvas print rack.  Inexpensive and I can use it for shows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0YUYr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0YUYr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T02:37:30.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8989" CreationDate="2021-02-09T16:21:36.820" Score="2" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to buy a new set of charcoal, but I found vine and willow charcoal sticks, which I've never seen before.  Before I buy this charcoal set I need to know the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to ask people who have used these types of charcoal before, what beneficial characteristics do they bring to the table, and in what ways are the experience of using them different?  How does the magnitude of difference compare to the difference in cost?  Are there certain kinds of results that are possible (or significantly easier) only with these kinds of charcoal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-10T07:15:12.643" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T07:15:12.643" Title="Vine charcoal and Willow charcoal" Tags="|drawing|material-selection|charcoal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8983" CreationDate="2021-02-09T19:00:21.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways, no way is best for every kind of canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most canvases you can fold over the edge and hand embroider around the edge. When you do an images search for -edge embroidery stitches- (order of words may change the results) you will get many stitches that will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases the canvas is so strong or stiff that it will not fold over as wanted or sticks out between the edge stitches. In that case you may want to apply a narrow strip of tape to the edge (cut or folded) and embroider over that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases people embroider a strong strip just inside the actual edge, all around, and tease out the canvas outside that strip, ending the patch in a fringe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an option of using glue on the edge, with or without embroidery, I am not familiar with that method, but I know it is on the WWW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these methods can also be done with machine embroidery, but you have to be careful to stitch on a raw edge, as it is harder to get an even set of stitches. If you want to try, set the zigzag stitches to the widest it can, the distance between stitches very short, and carefully stitch on the edge of what you want to keep. It will be easier to first stitch and next cut, but it has the risk some of the canvas will still be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-02-09T19:00:21.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8987" CreationDate="2021-02-09T19:07:51.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You won't notice a lot of differences between using vine and willow charcoal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Vine (of the grape) tends to be slightly darker in tone, is physically a little harder than willow, and I believe it has a somewhat finer structure. Vine is thinner and usually a little straighter than willow. The latter can come in a larger variety of thicknesses, which can be convenient when wanting to make broad strokes. Willow also tends to have more knots, which can have adverse effects while drawing (e.g. sudden changes in hardness and breaking in unpredictable ways).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Note that these characteristics can differ even between brands (different production processes, different climes, different wood species, different storage, &amp;amp;c.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that historically vine charcoal was used more often in southern Europe (such as Italy during the renaissance), whereas in the north people had more access to willow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get your hands on it, it might be worthwhile looking into &lt;a href=&quot;https://nitramcharcoal.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'Nitram' charcoal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have no experience with it - I actually just found out about it - but it is supposed to have deeper colours while being as easy to erase as regular charcoal, and it comes in different hardnesses (H, HB, and B). It is easier to sharpen to a finer point for detailed work than regular charcoal types. It also leaves less dust, which might be especially appealing to people with allergies or sensitivities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-10T07:12:15.067" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T07:12:15.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8991" CreationDate="2021-02-09T19:23:06.647" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I googled it, but it didn't really convince me as websites aren't that trustworthy.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I wish to make my own charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-02-19T03:31:46.963" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T03:31:46.963" Title="How can I make charcoal?" Tags="|charcoal|material-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8990" CreationDate="2021-02-10T19:56:00.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charcoal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charcoal&lt;/a&gt; is organic matter (usually wood) that has been partially burned in a low-oxygen environment. To make it, you take wood, exclude air, and apply heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to make charcoal with a fire and a metal container packed full of wood pieces&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supply list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small pieces of wood (eg willow or charcoal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a metal container with a lid and vent hole(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an outdoor fire pit or grill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fire tongs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;firewood and kindling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an ignition method (matches, a lighter, flint &amp;amp; steel &amp;amp; tinder, a car battery, fire drill &amp;amp; block, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the skill to start a fire using your chosen ignition method&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a fire extinguisher or several gallons of water (in case the fire gets out of control)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a closeable metal container with no flammable parts (eg, an Altoid mints tin or a paint can). The container should close securely, but it needs a vent hole to allow gases to escape during the charring process. Poke an air hole in the lid if it doesn't have one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the container with pieces of wood. Pack them tightly together to minimize air space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a good fire going. Put the container on the fire and surround it with hot coals or add logs around it so it will be surrounded by burning wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintain the fire while you wait. The wood will release wood gas as it chars, and the wood gas will catch fire as it comes out of the vent hole. You'll see a flame coming out of the vent hole(s) as if it was a gas stove. When that flame goes out, it means the charcoal is no longer releasing wood gas, which means it's done.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A very small container may take half an hour or less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A large container such as a 55 gallon steel drum may take 6 or more hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use tongs to pull the container out of the fire and put it on a heatproof surface, well away from anything flammable. Let it sit until completely cool before opening the container. Don't open the container while it's still hot or your charcoal will catch fire. If this happens, &lt;em&gt;carefully&lt;/em&gt; try to put the lid back on to smother the fire. If you can't, now you have another small fire inside a metal container. Just let it burn, but stand by with your fire extinguisher or buckets of water to make sure this fire doesn't spread.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An even simpler method to make charcoal is just to have a wood fire. After the fire burns down, there will be some sticks or chunks of wood that didn't burn completely. The partially burned ends of those sticks will have a layer of charcoal. The charcoal may be covered with a layer of white or gray ash, which can easily be brushed or scraped off. Make sure the coals are completely cool all the way through before removing them from the fire, or you may have an unexpected fire in your art supply bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common types of wood used for drawing charcoal are grapevine and willow. You can find more information about which materials make the good drawing charcoal here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/6465/is-coconut-shell-good-to-produce-charcoal-for-drawing&quot;&gt;Is coconut shell good to produce charcoal for drawing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a more detailed tutorial, there are &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+make+charcoal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube tutorials about how to make charcoal&lt;/a&gt;. Here are just a few using different types of containers: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_g6Q7RmxG0I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paint cans&lt;/a&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzLvqCTvOQY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;primitive method using a dirt mount&lt;/a&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpUPAGGrzuA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;homemade kiln made from a 55 gallon steel drum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T09:23:46.660" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T09:23:46.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-10T22:13:29.320" Score="2" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making badges, so need to cut 44mm circles out of photo paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using sharp scissors and being careful, but that obviously takes a fair amount of time, and doesn't give perfect circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit came with a circle cutter, but it has no way of gripping, so just slides around the paper giving ovals!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen various compass type cutters, but I don't want to put a hole in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any devices or techniques I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10407" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-11T07:09:38.880" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T20:16:57.990" Title="Repeatedly cutting 44mm circles from paper" Tags="|paper|cutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8992" CreationDate="2021-02-10T23:08:17.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can provide links and/or images, my answer can be adjusted, but at first thought, consider the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For compass style cutters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pivot of the cutter could be attached to a metal disk or to a magnet. The size and shape of the disk or magnet would be dependent on the structure of the pivot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pivot is a magnet, the underlying surface should be metal, but you'd want a cutting mat between the paper and the metal sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pivot is a metal disk, the magnet should be embedded in a wood surface or if the magnet is thin enough, cut a matching recess in the cutting mat or equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T23:08:17.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8992" CreationDate="2021-02-11T07:26:35.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a compass knife, another option is a disc of tough rubber smaller than the circle you want to cut (and presumably small enough to see your design if it's printed).  I had some offcuts from work that I used for this, similar to a bike tyre (not an inner tube) in toughness and thickness, but flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will grip the workpiece and, if thick enough, will keep the point from penetrating and damaging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might get away with a piece cut from a rubber-backed mouse mat, but if the pin breaks through the top it will go straight through the rubber, yet it must dent the top enough to sty in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T07:26:35.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8997" CreationDate="2021-02-12T04:40:50.293" Score="5" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to vacuum seal and compress two things together and then bake them at 300-deg F so they will bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do high-temp vacuum bags exist? (silicone, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something like these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/FoodSaver-FreshSaver-1-Quart-Vacuum-Zipper-Bags-18-Count/14320823&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;vacuum foodsaver ziplock bags&lt;/a&gt;, but they melt and the plastic bonds at about 280-deg F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10413" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T04:21:14.550" Title="Do high-temp vacuum-sealed reusable bags exist?" Tags="|adhesives|sealer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8996" CreationDate="2021-02-12T11:13:37.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are silicone sealable and reusable food storage bags like these that are good for over 400 degrees: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07TMH55SW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Silicone Food Storage Bags Reusable&lt;/a&gt; (looks like this particular product isn't currently available at Amazon, but you can find similar items or they may come back into stock; at least it's clear that such products exist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are sealed with a channel that slides over the opening.  What comes with it looks like plastic, so you would need to make a similar channel or clip out of metal or some other material that would withstand the high temperature.  You would also need to figure out how to suck out the air and complete the sealing of it.  It might require embedding a tube at one end of the opening, sealing the bag, evacuating it, then sealing the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other product I can think of that will take the temperature is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reynoldskitchens.com/products/cookware/oven-bags&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reynolds Oven Bags&lt;/a&gt;, which works in a 350F oven and comes in various sizes.  Those are designed to be tied with a provided nylon string.  It isn't clear how many uses you would get from a bag, but they're a lot cheaper than the silicone bags.  Again, you would need to find a way to suck out the air and seal it.  You could do something like wrap the opening around a tube, suck out the air, than tightly twist and tie the bag below the tube, perhaps folding the twisted area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creating an air-tight evacuation port in a sealable bag can be done, but is often a challenge.  The OP reports a clever idea to solve this.  Sous vide is a cooking method that involves sealing the food in a vacuum bag and cooking it in a water bath at a controlled temperature.  Silicone bags are available for this purpose, and come with an evacuation port built-in.&#xA;The OP found these &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08FG7TVBX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sous Vide Silicone Bags&lt;/a&gt; and reports that they worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zbibD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zbibD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T01:19:48.937" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T01:19:48.937" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-12T21:36:51.997" Score="2" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get my hands on one of these disks used to rest the sharp point of a compass on so it will not make a hole in the paper. Someone suggested this device in another question, but I can't find one anywhere online.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is it possible to make one myself, or is there something I can use to act as one of these tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10419" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-13T08:59:19.123" LastActivityDate="2023-12-21T20:46:21.317" Title="How can I create a center disk to put under a compass point?" Tags="|tool-usage|material-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8999" CreationDate="2021-02-13T00:30:33.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For something of this sort, you'll either construct one yourself, or repurpose a common item from another resource. The first thought that popped into my alleged mind is a coaster, something with a reasonably solid bottom layer to prevent puncture and also to provide grip, and an upper layer with material suitable to hold the compass point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a sheet of hobby plywood cut in a shape to meet your needs should work. You'd be able to cut more than one, to have replacements when the point holes are excessive in quantity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shelf liner and drawer liner made of an open mesh material that's spongy is found in grocery and big-box stores and can be applied to the bottom of the coaster or coaster substitute to prevent slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T00:30:33.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8992" CreationDate="2021-02-13T19:29:54.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with what are considered &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; metric size increments, but 44 mm is within typical precision of a 1-3/4&amp;quot; hole, which is a common US size and probably close enough for this purpose.  You can get hole punches of this general style:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1GVyb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1GVyb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0090JVGIM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also gasket punches like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uMG99.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uMG99.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;em&gt;Image courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcmaster.com/hole-forming-punches/hammer-driven-hole-punches-7/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That picture is from an expensive tool, but you can get inexpensive sets of similar style hollow punches containing a range of sizes.  A common configuration looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4Fbt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4Fbt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002M82QRI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture happens to be an expensive set that actually includes a 44 mm size, but places like Harbor Freight have inexpensive versions.  These often include a centering pin that is removable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just the cutting dies are often available in sets sold as leather punches, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1gfs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1gfs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07V4S516M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set in this picture happens to be an inexpensive metric set that includes 45 mm cutter, which might be close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make your own similar dies to a precise size by cutting up something like a steel food can, adjusting the diameter, soldering it, and then cleaning up and edging the cutting surface.  People sometimes make fancy shapes this way for custom clay or cookie cutters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-02-13T20:16:57.990" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T20:16:57.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9010" CreationDate="2021-02-20T10:40:07.610" Score="1" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much frame overlap will there be on my painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (oil) painting will be 39,37 x 29.53&amp;quot; (or 100 x 75cm). There are quite a lot of details around the edge, so I want to make sure that those won't be covered by the frame.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I found some blog articles that say the overlap will be 1/4 inch, but I was wondering if this standard might change in case the painting is bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still don't know if I want a mat as well or not, but, since I'm here, will that involve a different overlap to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9619" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-21T21:04:17.317" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T21:04:17.317" Title="How much frame overlap will there be on my painting?" Tags="|painting|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2021-02-20T16:45:51.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rubber eraser has the capacity to clean graphite and charcoal off of paper even when its packed into the tooth of paper. Therefore I would definitely try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you need to take care not to dent the pieces with too much pressure; but you might find a kind of eraser that offers worthwhile cleaning performance even when used with low pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kneaded_eraser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kneaded eraser&lt;/a&gt; would be among the first kinds that I would try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10433" LastEditorUserId="10433" LastEditDate="2021-02-20T16:53:09.667" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T16:53:09.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9008" CreationDate="2021-02-21T21:02:15.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many types of frames for paintings. It's true for the classical painting frame that it overlaps, and I don't think it will increase as the size of the painting increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With mats you face the exact same problem: mats won't cover part of your painting &lt;em&gt;in addition to&lt;/em&gt; the frame - they usually just have rabbets of their own in which the artwork is placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the overlap is necessary for the frame to hold the artwork.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The width or depth of the recess in the frame or overlap of the mat is dependent on the character of the artwork's edges, and must be at least as wide as the largest deviation from a straight line, or you'll end up with gaps between the frame/mat and the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking that into account, I suggest getting a &lt;strong&gt;floating frame&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/btjkO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/btjkO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wvzFT.png&quot; width=&quot;999&quot; &gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.holtonframes.com/frames-framing/frame-catalog/floater-frames/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the same page&lt;/a&gt; were I got the (first, edited) picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Floater (or “float”) frames are so named because the canvas appears to float inside the molding. Their biggest benefit is that &lt;strong&gt;they leave the canvas edge exposed rather than covered by a rabbet&lt;/strong&gt;. Another advantage of the floater, no matter how narrow, is that it helps keep the canvas from warping.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, as you can see, they're easy to make yourself, and you can adapt the thickness, colour, wood type, grain, &amp;amp;c. to what best suits your work.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Because of the open design, they won't keep dust away, but you can of course insert a glass panel in front and seal the backside off if you'd want to (which might making one a lot harder, though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also &lt;strong&gt;contact a frame-maker&lt;/strong&gt; and ask for their opinion. Many art supply stores also offer custom framing services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T21:02:15.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-22T07:12:44.287" Score="1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to place a variety of different shaped seashell on a wall space in my bathroom. Is gluing them to the wall the best option? If so, what type of glue. Keeping in mind this is a wall in my bathroom. And should humidity be a concern&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10462" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T07:12:44.287" Title="Securing seashell to an open painted wall" Tags="|adhesives|decoupage-glue|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2021-02-23T08:23:02.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-23T04:31:22.793" Score="4" ViewCount="1112" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local frame shop uses weighted leather discs to lay prints out flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These paper weights are essential for keeping rolled posters flat on a table. I can also see them being used in the map / cartography hobby. They're soft, so as not to damage the paper, small enough to cover only the corners, but also heavy enough to hold down a rolled poster and not move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy some for framing at home, but I'm finding these items to be surprisingly difficult to find. I can find almost no pictures of them in use. The ones I can find seem overly expensive or rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these items called in the framing world?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do frame shops purchase these paper weights? Are they available at craft stores?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNJeD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNJeD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;using 4 weighted leather paper weights to lay flat a rolled poster&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might describe them as paper weights, bean bags, sand bags, shot bags, weighted leather disks, etc. But there are not many results for any of these terms. It seems like these should be a common item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10478" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-23T08:15:18.040" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T20:56:28.290" Title="Paperweights used to hold down Art, Posters, or Maps for framing" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-23T20:41:50.303" Score="1" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the experienced people that cut glass bottles: I would like to make the bottom of the wine bottle a drinking glass. I have cut the bottles easily but getting a round polished edge is quite impossible with hand. My Dremmel gets too hot. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10489" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T21:28:45.740" Title="Smoothing cut glass made from wine bottles" Tags="|glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2021-02-23T22:14:22.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9015" CreationDate="2021-02-23T21:28:45.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sand down the edges with 150-grit, 220-grit, 320-grit, then finally 400-grit sandpaper to make your glass even smoother. Then, use 1000-grit and 2000-grit sandpaper to polish the edge to perfection. Wipe the edge of the glass with a clean damp cloth once you've finished sanding to wipe away any leftover grit or dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T21:28:45.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8981" CreationDate="2021-02-24T08:23:33.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally I find some information. In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20L1I9zrLFM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;, the  paper they're printing cover on is &lt;strong&gt;28lb bond&lt;/strong&gt; and then they're single-side &lt;strong&gt;laminating each cover with 1.2mil gloss lamination&lt;/strong&gt;. &amp;quot;Thicker sheets are harder to fold and manipulate so a thinner sheet and lamination are ideal for these type of covers.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main hard cover they are using is a pre-prepared hard cover that is itself one-side sticky and need not to any adhesive material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9849" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T08:23:33.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9019" CreationDate="2021-02-25T04:18:40.253" Score="2" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, my (acid-free) paper (from 'SoHo Studio'; shown below) is yellowing, I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/grocery/ip/Krylon-Workable-Fixatif-Spray-Coating-11-oz/20683596?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;amp;selectedSellerId=0&amp;amp;wl13=807&amp;amp;&amp;amp;adid=22222222227017872817&amp;amp;wl0=&amp;amp;wl1=g&amp;amp;wl2=c&amp;amp;wl3=40941733712&amp;amp;wl4=pla-78879485912&amp;amp;wl5=9027304&amp;amp;wl6=&amp;amp;wl7=&amp;amp;wl8=&amp;amp;wl9=pla&amp;amp;wl10=120643079&amp;amp;wl11=local&amp;amp;wl12=20683596&amp;amp;veh=sem&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiAj9iBBhCJARIsAE9qRtDx4r76jbxQ4l7KLKfYqBcQwHnNidqvvFyohFXcurbtIT30FltT8pIaArYnEALw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Krylon Workable Fixatif Spray Coating&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, fixatives prevent this issue to happen, what should I do?&#xA;Is there anything special I should do to my paper?&#xA;I don't think you can see the yellowing, but just trust me, it is yellow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ImXt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ImXt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-26T07:39:49.280" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T07:39:49.280" Title="Paper's preservation (fixative not working)" Tags="|paper|preservation|charcoal|fixative|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9018" CreationDate="2021-02-25T23:16:23.293" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paper will yellow over time &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/528/30&quot;&gt;because of lignin in the pulped wood&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing an archival, acid-free fixative means that &lt;em&gt;the fixative itself&lt;/em&gt; should not yellow over time. Unfortunately, the primary purpose of the &lt;strong&gt;fixative&lt;/strong&gt; is to prevent smudging of the media that is on your paper. While it can &lt;em&gt;slow down&lt;/em&gt; paper yellowing over time (by reducing the surface area of the paper that is exposed to air), it doesn't neutralize those oxidizing chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/2011/30&quot;&gt;ways to treat the paper&lt;/a&gt; to prevent the yellowing from getting worse, and you can also put it behind UV-blocking glass to protect it from further oxidization due to air and light. However, the current yellowing may not be reversible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2021-02-25T23:58:16.650" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T23:58:16.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9022" CreationDate="2021-02-27T19:42:01.050" Score="4" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use my photos to paint from. I would like to know how to find a grid for my screen to square off my photo. This would aid in transferring it to a canvas or paper.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've tried to find a photo editor app, etc. but none offer grid overlays I guess you'd call them.  I'm an artist, not so smart about computers and what's available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10513" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-01T11:37:18.760" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T11:37:18.760" Title="Grid for copying photos from laptop" Tags="|tool-fabrication|reference|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9020" CreationDate="2021-02-27T20:00:49.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We don't really allow for product recommendations, but you can make your own grid overlays:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a sheet of flexible plastic, and use a permanent marker and ruler to create a grid with your preferred scale, and simply put it up against your monitor.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Usually it can rest against the borders of the screen, but a little tape will definitely hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In an image editor like Photoshop or the free open-source &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gimp.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gimp&lt;/a&gt; you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add guidelines;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(add a transparent layer and) add lines on top of the reference image (and save that layer to use it whenever you need it);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make use of the feature to show grids (the size can be adjusted);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;find premade grids on transparent background images &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=grid%20transparent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-02-28T13:22:48.670" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T13:22:48.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-02-28T20:28:27.850" Score="5" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to gild with imitation, or other than gold and silver, leaves using traditional water gilding? If not, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, why is it not possible to burnish (using agate stone) when using imitation leaves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10456" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-03-09T18:22:33.103" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T17:05:25.613" Title="Can traditional water gilding be used with leaves other than gold and silver?" Tags="|gilding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-01T20:42:22.820" Score="4" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m making MC (Methyl Cellulose) paste for origami, and it’s not mixing. When I stop stirring, all the MC just sinks. What am I doing wrong?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(If you need more info please comment, I’ve looked all over the web - no results. I’m using Lineco Pure MC.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10538" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-03-02T08:26:28.287" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T19:12:14.060" Title="Methyl cellulose paste mixing mix-up" Tags="|adhesives|origami|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-03T08:28:50.173" Score="4" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying my hand at etching glass with my Dremel 4000 &amp;amp; a Flex Shaft. I've been experimenting with different diamond bits and speeds but my edges always come out chipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a water drip system I sort of invented to keep the dust down and to keep the bits and glass cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glass I'm practicing on is from a candle, so it's pretty thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could give me some tips, I'd really appreciate it. It would also be really helpful if anyone could share links to some good bits. Searching Amazon gives me hundreds of results and they mostly seem to be the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzl7r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzl7r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;some of the edges are just me being new at this, but you can clearly see actual chips in the glass&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10548" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T10:52:23.430" Title="How can I avoid chipped edges on glass etching with a Dremel?" Tags="|glass|tool-usage|lapidary|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1937" CreationDate="2021-03-03T17:23:58.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was a kid, we would make a type of suncatcher using wax paper, crayons, random colored paper/fabric, dried flowers &amp;amp; leaves, and whatever else looked cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'd usually go outside a few days beforehand and look for cool leaves &amp;amp; flowers and then press them between the pages of a book until dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we would lay down a towel. On top of that, we'd put a sheet of wax paper, then we'd layer all the stuff in a way that looked nice. The crayons are important here because they act like a sort of glue that keeps everything in place and seals the wax paper together. Typically, crayon shavings went on the first layer, then the leaves/flowers/scraps of colored paper were arranged over the crayon shavings. The next layer would be more crayon shavings, then another sheet of wax paper. We would use stick pins to hold everything together, then cover the whole thing with another towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the highest setting, we'd run the iron over the towel, checking often to make sure that the crayons were melting. Your iron should get hot enough to melt both layers of crayon shavings, but we always made sure to turn the whole thing over to iron both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then they'd hang in the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this might sound like sort of a weird craft project, but it's sorta like stained glass and the results can be interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10548" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T17:23:58.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8950" CreationDate="2021-03-03T18:03:55.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my now nearly 21 year old, extremely talented artist son was little, he'd always pester me to draw him a dragon. I'm not very good at drawing myself, but I did my best and he always watched me very closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day when he was maybe five or six, he was in a super 'mom draw me a dragon' mood. I'd had a hard day at work and I was on the phone dealing with some bill I couldn't pay at the time and I handed him a pencil and paper and told him he needed to draw his own dragon. I felt so guilty at the time, but when I was finally done on the phone 20 minutes later, he was about halfway through drawing his first dragon, and he never asked me to draw him a dragon again. I was always pretty good at coloring, so he started letting me color the amazing stuff he started creating. Sometimes he &amp;amp; I would sit down for hours and I would color while he drew. He kept at it and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/grinalbi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's a link to his Instagram&lt;/a&gt;, he absolutely learned how to draw dragons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter if you are the type of person who can quickly sketch amazing art, or if your best drawing is an uneven stick figure. I recommend sitting down with your kid and drawing and coloring with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to draw books can be very helpful, my son ended up asking for some when he was 12 or 13. Before I got him the books he wanted, he would trace the pages of coloring books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is absolutely nothing wrong with someone who is learning to draw copying and tracing. It's a really good way to begin training the muscles in the hands and arms. Drawing takes a lot of very fine motor control and there is nothing wrong with using a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copying and tracing can become a problem when people try to pass off tracing someone else's work as their own. Make sure to explain to your kid that it's okay to copy and trace to learn, but that they should never take credit for someone else's artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that art should be something your kid explores naturally, especially if they are young. Let them experiment. Experiment with them. Introducing a book and telling your kid that they have to follow the instructions in the book can potentially hinder their own creativity. Save the how to draw books for when they're older and don't push a how to draw book on them. Get it for them if they ask, but if they don't, they likely don't even want one. It's important to let them develop their own style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10548" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T18:03:55.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9030" CreationDate="2021-03-03T19:07:18.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most common would be a rotary bit.&#xA;This one would be specifically for glass carving:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000L9T4C0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The bottom row would be the fine detail tips, would be beneficial to wanting to carve out small detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brand wise, you really can't go wrong with a rotary bit. I have been in the tool industry for about five years. Yes, you can get really high quality rotary bits. They will last a long time. Dremel would be a medium range quality of rotary bit. Which would be recommended to a hobbyist, or even a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T19:07:18.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1937" CreationDate="2021-03-03T20:22:53.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was a kid, Elmer's glue came out with a colored glue product intended to create window clings, which had a pleasing stained-glass effect. While I'm not sure that the product is made anymore, as it's simply colored white (PVA) glue applied to a surface from which it can be peeled away (plastic sheet or wax paper), it's quite simple to make at home, if a bit messier than the other suggested answers involving markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, you'll add a coloring (food coloring seems to work; alcohol inks would likely also do the job) to a bottle of inexpensive school glue and shake to mix, then use the bottle to draw. Black coloring could be used to create fake leading, then after allowing the outline to dry (either letting the kids draw it, or drawing it out yourself), the kids can pick their colors of glue and use it to fill in the outlines. After it's fully dry, it can be peeled away from the plastic or wax paper and stuck to a window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blog &lt;a href=&quot;https://lifeasmom.com/homemade-window-clings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Life as Mom&lt;/a&gt; has more detailed instructions, as well as photos of the process and finished product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T20:22:53.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8931" CreationDate="2021-03-04T01:57:18.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the right to add and remove tonality (shading) anywhere you please as the artist, there should be no &amp;quot;I won't be able to do anything there&amp;quot;. Do not let the photograph be the master!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you want a photo-real drawing by copying a photo then the &amp;quot;overexposure&amp;quot; in the photograph would be part of image. So if you like the overall exposure of the cat in the original photograph and want to capture that then you would leave that area lighter with less detail, just like in the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of using multiple photographs as others suggested would not necessarily be to form a more &amp;quot;three dimensional&amp;quot; version, as if you were drawing from life, it would be to give you different levels of exposure, thus revealing different details that you could put together in your drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T01:57:18.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9030" CreationDate="2021-03-04T10:52:23.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to diagnose without seeing the bit you used, but here are my ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Orientation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The line in the center of your image has only one chipped edge on one side. That implies that the problem either arises at the side where the tool starts touching the glass or leaves the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you turn the glass (or the tool) so that the rotation of the bit is parallel to the line you're etching, the chipping might still occur, but it won't be visible because it'll be part of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Grain&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bit you're using might be too coarse for glass. Of course the bit needs &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; grain to be able to etch glass at all, which would be visible as bumps under the microscope. When one such bump touches the glass, it breaks tiny parts of it away. High grain bits have a lot of tiny bumps, which break the glass away evenly like a chain saw would cut a block of ice evenly. With lower grain these bumps get bigger and fewer, chipping away chunks of glass like an ice pick would chip a block of ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Uneven rotation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made the unfortunate experience that bits sometimes &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/5697/6316&quot;&gt;won't be centered properly&lt;/a&gt; in the collet. You can have the same effect if the shaft of the bit is slightly bent or if the stone of the tool (if it has one) isn't centered. As a result, instead of a constant grinding you get a tool that jumps over the surface like a miniature jackhammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T10:52:23.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8794" CreationDate="2021-03-04T12:02:44.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technique is in the brushing actually. you can check if you are putting the knot in the correct place. you can use pet comb brush also to make to more puffy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brushing properly will hide the space made by the knot and the yarn will be distributed equally. tie the knot as tight as you can.  i always try to put a thin but tight knot and use small scissors to cut it equally and then brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10569" LastEditorUserId="10569" LastEditDate="2021-03-04T12:19:59.213" LastActivityDate="2021-03-04T12:19:59.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9040" CreationDate="2021-03-04T18:15:52.133" Score="6" ViewCount="1306" Body="&lt;p&gt;When sewing for costuming/cosplay, most of the patterns I tend to turn to have a &amp;quot;flat&amp;quot; style sleeve construction; that is, the front and back pieces of the garment are joined at the shoulder, then the sleeve is attached while both parts are still able to be laid flat, before closing both the sleeve and sides in one long, single seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the pattern I'm currently working with calls for a &amp;quot;set-in&amp;quot; style of sleeve construction--the side seam of the garment is closed up first, as is the sleeve seam, and then the finished sleeve is inserted into the armscye and eased into place before being sewn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This raised a question for me of what the difference between the styles actually is; I find it easier to sew a flat sleeve, so is there a reason I should do the more time-consuming set-in sleeve instead? A search of some blogs and forums resulted in mixed responses; some said &amp;quot;there's no difference, do whichever you like,&amp;quot; while others espoused the superiority of one or the other technique without any reasoning to back up their assertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is simply this: &lt;strong&gt;What is the real advantage (or disadvantage) of a set-in sleeve vs a flat sleeve, if any?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T20:15:14.437" Title="&quot;Set-in&quot; vs &quot;Flat&quot; sleeve sewing -- is there really a difference?" Tags="|sewing|clothing|costume-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9043" CreationDate="2021-03-05T06:18:22.530" Score="5" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I think of embroidery I think of something detailed like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/resIt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/resIt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if there is a particular name for embroidery that is only a bare outline of the shape of something (color is irrelevant), like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqgsd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqgsd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this second type have a particular name or do I have to just describe it, such as &amp;quot;a bird shaped stitch outline&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10571" LastEditorUserId="10571" LastEditDate="2021-03-07T10:49:09.577" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T14:35:02.553" Title="Is there a name for embroidery that is only an outline?" Tags="|sewing|terminology|embroidery|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9038" CreationDate="2021-03-05T08:23:50.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be absolutely honest, the difference is marginal in most (but not all) cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably won't even notice any difference in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;short sleeves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wide or baggy garments (like a tunic or pirate blouse)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;garments where the shoulder seam extends far down the shoulder (like a kimono or most casual menswear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;garments sewn from stretchy fabric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Puffy sleeves that are gathered at the top of the shoulder should always be set-in sleeves because that allows you to place the gathers where they need to be. In theory you could gather the (open) sleeve first and still use the flat method, but I honestly find it easier to use the set-in method in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In tight fitting garments that don't stretch (like formal business shirts or coats) a flat-sewn sleeve might be too tight to accommodate the shoulder. The shoulder seam usually sits on top of the shoulder and the sleeve points slightly down at an angle. But the human body doesn't have angles like that, there is still the round of the shoulder that has to fit in there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jN1Cp.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jN1Cp.png&quot; alt=&quot;torso with a blue straight line representing flat sleeve and a green curved line representing set-in sleeve &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture is a tiny bit exaggerated to make the difference visible. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.equipashop.com/grey-male-sports-torso-stand.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Original image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blue line represents the flat-sewn sleeve. The fabric forms a straight tube without any ease, but the round top of the shoulder somehow has to fit in there. Bulky people will notice the difference more than skinny ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green line represents the set-in sleeve. It was cut wider than the armscye on purpose, then was slightly gathered on top to shorten the seamline to the same length as the armscye, before it was set in. Since the sleeve cap is a curve, some parts of it are cut on the bias and can compensate the gathering without puckering. The result is not a straight tube, but one that has a bulge at the top to accommodate the shoulder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some tutorials for set-in sleeves that clearly show the too-wide sleeve being gathered into the armscye:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blueprintsforsewing.com/blog/tutorial-setting-in-sleeves&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tutorial: Setting In Sleeves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sewguide.com/set-in-sleeve/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Set in Sleeve : Perfect way to attach sleeves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-05T08:57:30.203" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T08:57:30.203" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9039" CreationDate="2021-03-05T13:25:33.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Redwork Embroidery - also known as blackwork or Baltimore redwork/blackwork. Color relates to the thread. Simple backstitch outline work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the early 2000’s it re-emerged becoming a popular and fun craft. I met the folks from Sublime Stitching at the ArtStar Craft Festival and got the sexy librarian kit seen in the pic below. You can still buy iron-on pattern kits with lots of interesting outline patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a website that explains the history with citations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.womenfolk.com/quilting_history/redwork.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.womenfolk.com/quilting_history/redwork.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have any direct association, I just knew to look up Baltimore Redwork from reading American Quilter magazine.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2p4Uz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;personal example close up book&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AAJDV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;kit with personal sampler&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2021-03-05T13:45:36.617" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T13:45:36.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9039" CreationDate="2021-03-05T17:03:23.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to find more designs like the birds above, the Google Search term would be &lt;a href=&quot;https://tinyurl.com/y9mwywkw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Outline Embroidery&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the red bird outline shown is given as an example of Redwork in &lt;a href=&quot;https://sewguide.com/redwork-embroidery/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sewguide.com&lt;/a&gt;, both Redwork &amp;amp; Blackwork usually refer to a more geometric patterned work, or for outlined work like that would usually be filled with patterned stitches.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10574" LastActivityDate="2021-03-05T17:03:23.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9039" CreationDate="2021-03-05T19:32:10.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These types of designs go by a number of names, rather than just one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific example in the question is a sample of &lt;strong&gt;redwork,&lt;/strong&gt; so named for the thread color; it's also often stitched in blue and called &lt;strong&gt;bluework&lt;/strong&gt; as a result. These designs are typically quite simple, using only very basic stitches; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/redwork-embroidery-1177619&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spruce Crafts&lt;/a&gt; offers more information and examples of redwork embroidery, as well as tips for executing this style of embroidery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change your thread to black, and now you have &lt;strong&gt;blackwork,&lt;/strong&gt; which frequently incorporates geometric and &amp;quot;counted&amp;quot; designs, fill patterns, and even additional colors. Traditionally, it was largely focused on patterns, but modern blackwork will often be more figural, as your example shows. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/blackwork-embroidery-1177618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spruce Crafts&lt;/a&gt; again offers more information, as well as historical patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switch to metallic thread, and you have &lt;strong&gt;goldwork,&lt;/strong&gt; which tends to have more line weight variation and solid (textured) fills than the previous styles, while still also exhibiting designs that are more focused on just the outline. &lt;a href=&quot;https://royal-needlework.org.uk/courses/embroidery-techniques/goldwork/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Royal School of Needlework&lt;/a&gt;'s page has examples of both filled (textured) and open (linework) designs, as well as hybrids of the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you work in a light color on a dark fabric, using a running stitch, you're likely looking at &lt;strong&gt;sashiko&lt;/strong&gt; stitching; while, like blackwork, it typically involves repeating semi-geometric patterns and emphasizes traditionally Japanese design elements, modern designs incorporate more figural work. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/sashiko-patterns-projects-and-information-1177510&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spruce Crafts&lt;/a&gt; has examples of both traditional designs and those adding figural elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if all this monochromatic stuff isn't your style, &lt;strong&gt;vintage embroidery&lt;/strong&gt; changes up the line colors throughout the designs, instead of utilizing fills or textures. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/vintage-embroidery-patterns-4159525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spruce Crafts&lt;/a&gt; again has some examples and patterns for these styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you're looking beyond hand embroidery, machine embroidery companies tend to class designs like these as &lt;strong&gt;light stitching,&lt;/strong&gt; as seen with the category search on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.urbanthreads.com/categories.aspx?category=Light+Stitching&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Urban Threads&lt;/a&gt; (many of whose designs are also available for hand-stitching). While not exclusively outlined designs, many &amp;quot;light stitching&amp;quot; machine patterns have a similar look to your example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have no affiliation with the site Spruce Crafts; they are simply the site that came up most often with good examples in a basic Google search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-03-08T14:35:02.553" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T14:35:02.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9057" CreationDate="2021-03-06T16:05:16.477" Score="7" ViewCount="11949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replicate a color scheme that is given in Hex codes (RGB, equivalently) - example &lt;a href=&quot;https://color.romanuke.com/czvetovaya-palitra-4291/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I have red, yellow, blue, white and black paint, how am I supposed to systematically reproduce these colors? How can I determine the exact proportions of red, yellow, blue, white and black paint I should mix in order to get the colors shown? (Or any Hex-coded color for that matter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case I want to avoid mixing things &amp;quot;by eye&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10579" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T22:40:17.170" Title="How to mix paint given a hex color code?" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1937" CreationDate="2021-03-07T16:55:39.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to use old fashioned &amp;quot;transparancies&amp;quot; - thin clear plastic sheets that used to be ubiquitous in schools and universities a decade or two ago, used with tri-projectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the ones that can be printed on using laser printers/copiers. Some printing shops still do them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print or photocopy your outline onto the transparancy, then let your kids colour it in using transparency pens or permanent markers. If you want mistakes to be semi-erasable, use whiteboard markers instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find transparancies, you can experiment with other plastic sheets, e.g. cover sheets used when binding documents (some of these are textured or frosted on one side, which gives an interesting effect if you colour the smooth side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once they are done, let it dry for at least 24 hours before you cut out the shape. You can then  go over your outlines with a &amp;quot;steel&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;silver&amp;quot; metallic marker / paint marker to emulate lead. Once the marker is done, let it &amp;quot;cure&amp;quot; for a few days and if you want the project to last longer, you can then seal it with matte acrylic spray varnish. Use several very thin coats if you do this, and don't hold the can too close to the sheet, otherwise the solvent in the spray may &amp;quot;lift&amp;quot; and smear the markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use tiny dots of clear-drying silicone-based glue to stick it to a window, or tape it in place with narrow strips of metallic tape to form a frame if it is square or rectangular. You can also glue it to a frame and hang it in front of the window if you prefer not to stick it to the glass&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something more realistic, there are paints that are used on glass specifically for a faux-lead glass effect, as well as tubes of &amp;quot;fake lead&amp;quot; that is applied on the surface of glass  to look like lead seams, but that gets expensive and a bit messy for kiddy projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is shrink plastic (shrinky dinks / shrinkles). Apart from the pre-printed colouring sheets, you can also buy clear sheets of shrink plastic and do your own designs. When they shrink upon heating in an oven, they thicken and harden, and the colours deepen. The finished product looks very much like glass. Just remember that they end up 20-25% of their original size, so don't make the design too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastEditorUserId="9490" LastEditDate="2021-03-07T23:51:05.333" LastActivityDate="2021-03-07T23:51:05.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8996" CreationDate="2021-03-08T04:21:14.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use regular silicone zip-seal bags, like Stasher bags, which can sustain up to 400ºF, and then put them inside one of those vacuum-seal bags with the one-way valves, and use the valved bag like a mini vacuum chamber to vacuum the air out of the silicone bag before sealing it.  People do this for sous vide cooking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2fFnIFYDls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this youtube video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T04:21:14.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-08T18:54:29.207" Score="3" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start a project sketchbook where I will put all of my existing notes for 1 specific project, separated into different sections, and with a table of contents, to arrange them and have a central point for my notes on that project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will mostly be text but will also include process flow diagrams and pasted photos, so I want plain paper without printed lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want it to be A3 size, and I thought of getting a plain A3 sketchbook, but there may be a time where 1 page is not enough for a specific section that is between other full pages, so I wonder what options there are for something so I can add a new page in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10593" LastEditorUserId="10593" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T00:59:36.077" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T04:19:58.693" Title="What binding options are there for an A3 sketchbook that I can rearrange or add pages to?" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|book-binding|sketching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9051" CreationDate="2021-03-08T20:29:32.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make your own &lt;strong&gt;sketchbook ring binder&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAUXw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FAUXw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, new blank A3 pages, as well as coloured index tabs, can easily be added anywhere.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can perforate new pages yourself using a hole puncher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your project files consist of a lot of loose or thick objects, you can also opt for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=binder%20box&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;binder box&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T20:29:32.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9051" CreationDate="2021-03-09T04:19:58.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6lEC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6lEC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.levenger.com/circa-326/circa-kits-22678.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Levenger Circa binding system&lt;/a&gt; that uses a special punch and round discs to produce notebooks with removable pages. There are some clones that go by the generic name disk-binding systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10598" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T04:19:58.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9055" CreationDate="2021-03-09T16:25:35.653" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a few things on a clear sticker that I can stick on my walls. But I don't want it to damage the walls when I remove the stickers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any special paper I can get that I can print on with a laser printer? I see a lot on Amazon that are white but I need/want clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10605" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T21:01:47.233" LastActivityDate="2021-03-26T23:45:50.063" Title="Laser printer paper for clear wall decals? Never done anything like this and not sure what to buy" Tags="|printing|decals|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9054" CreationDate="2021-03-09T20:54:03.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the type of paint on the walls and the type of adhesive on the decals.  In general, with normal PVA the sticker is going to end up damaging the paint either by bonding tightly and peeling it from the wall when you remove the sticker, or reacting with the paint and discolouring it over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some types of high gloss enamels fare better, but in general a sticker on the wall is going to have to stay there until you decide to repaint, otherwise there will be a mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint also discolours with age due to exposure to air and sunlight. So even if you find a miracle adhesive that doesn't do anything to the paint, it will then instead protect the spot under it and once you remove the sticker there will be a noticable spot on the wall that doesn't match the colour of the rest of the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, most clear printable sticker paper and waterslide available are for inkjets rather than laser printers.  However, Silhouette America makes a &amp;quot;printable clear sticker paper&amp;quot; that is supposedly laser printable. I have not used it myself, but you can order it from Amazon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastEditorUserId="9490" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T00:03:05.623" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T00:03:05.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-10T02:52:02.237" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;My folks died a couple of years ago and we had to empty the house and do all that sad stuff. I had 40 years of artwork in their attic and I brought it all to my studio to &amp;quot;sort out&amp;quot;. Three years later I am still tripping over all of it and I am trying to figure out what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of it is &amp;quot;worth&amp;quot; anything. I've been an artist for most of my life and have had my little successes but no one is ever going to be assembling a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalogue_raisonn%C3%A9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catalogue raisonné&lt;/a&gt; on me :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what to do with it all? It's mostly works on paper, some matted, most not. And LOTS of sketchbooks with really bad stuff. I barely have any nostalgic tie to it all – but I wonder if I will regret &amp;quot;some day&amp;quot; having tossed it all out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T02:52:02.237" Title="Getting rid of old artwork and sketchbooks?" Tags="|drawing|painting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-03-10T07:56:25.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9045" CreationDate="2021-03-10T22:02:58.293" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;RGB (Red Green Blue), is the common system for representing primary colors for emitted light.  That's the color system used for computer monitors.  The hex codes are a way of specifying the RGB values.  Each two-digit pair in the sequence represents a value between 0 and 255 (in hexadecimal, so only two characters are needed for each value), for red, green and blue light.  That allows over 16 million possible colors, which is adequately close to what the human eye can distinguish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CMY (Cyan Magenta Yellow), is a common system for representing primary colors of reflected light.  It's typically the color system used for print colors.  Additional colors are often added to the pallet because it is difficult to produce intense RGB primary colors by mixing CMY colors.  So printers typically add black, and high-end photo printers often add one or more of the RGB primary colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To create precise mixed colors, you need to start with precise primary colors.  For example, a nice, intense blue may not be an optically &amp;quot;pure&amp;quot; blue primary color, so any colors mixed from that will be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With paint, there is also the effect of how concentrated the pigment is in the paint.  If you mix a color from two paints that are optically perfect primary colors but have different concentrations of pigment, the resulting color will be off in the direction of the paint containing a higher ratio of pigment.  You create the color by mixing controlled amounts of pigment, not controlled amounts of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Companies that sell mixed paint colors use precisely known colorants, in terms of both the color and the concentration of pigment.  Their equipment is calibrated based on those standard source colorants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're starting with paint whose precise color and pigment concentration are unknown, so there is no basis for mixing colors from those without calibration equipment (other than by eye).  You have the further problem that you aren't starting with a pallet that is primary colors for reflected light, so there will be ranges of color you can't reproduce from just those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can approximate a CMY pallet by mixing the colors you have, and that might get you close enough for the colors you need, but there are two big problems.  One is that you can never mix pure magenta or cyan primary colors from other colors.  The best you can do is to create very desaturated versions.  The other problem is that you have no way to produce accurate primary hues as a mixing starting point without calibration equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unfortunately, you can't get there from here.  You may be able to come adequately close for your needs if you buy a color calibration sensor and a good white light source with a high color rendering index.  There are some relatively inexpensive ones for calibrating monitors.  You may even be able to create something crude with a cellphone camera, a standard color target, and some calibration software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a calibrated color sensor, you could precisely mix some colors and measure how far off they are from theoretical.  That will indicate differences in pigment concentration, and you could adjust for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality, though, is that you will invest more time, effort, and money in trying to use your existing paints in this way than buying paints (or paint-like printer's inks) designed to be used in the way you want to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-16T19:30:09.000" LastActivityDate="2022-04-16T19:30:09.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9054" CreationDate="2021-03-10T23:11:25.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stuff that works directly with a laser printer will have the kinds of problems described in Gwyn's answer.  If you have access to an inkjet printer, you will be in business.  There are clear, printable vinyl sheets that stick to a wall or window with static electricity.  The media will melt in a laser printer, but they're coated to accept inkjet printing.  They can be used with laser printing in a different way, which I'll describe below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some only work well on a smooth, glossy surface, like a window.  Others will stick to most walls as longs as they aren't textured.  Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B005GQIPKK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt; (no personal experience with this product):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/By1an.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/By1an.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are commonly used for temporary signage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture looks like white media because it is used with laser (or other) printing by gluing the laser-printed sheet to the cling sheet and using the cling sheet only for adhesion.  If you need it clear but laser-printed, you could print on laser transparency film and glue that to the cling sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This film will stick to a window for a very long time, but I don't know how permanent the hold is to a wall.  If you need it for more than short-term use, you could investigate its longevity in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-03-10T23:16:56.447" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T23:16:56.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2021-03-10T23:57:22.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number options for printing onto fabric.  The two easiest ones are to buy either printable fabric sheets or printable transfer sheets. The former is great for labels or fabric you want to sew or quilt onto something, while the other is mostly for transferring an image to already made items, e.g. T-shirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy both at many hobby, craft or sewing supply stores or order from Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also print directly onto fabric  using a number of methods, including using freezer paper, starched and stretched fabric, etc. There are many tutorials all over the web on how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your design printed or transferred, let it dry completely, remove it from the paper backing and iron it a few times to improve colour fastness, then use a non-toxic fabric glue to stick it to the box.  You will need to more or less saturate the edges of the labels in the fabric glue, or they will eventually loosen and fray under the effects of little teeth and saliva.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use fabric tape (the thermoweb type used to stick badges to uniforms, &amp;quot;hem&amp;quot; dust cloths and other things you don't feel like sewing) instead of glue, but then you will need to use an iron on the box to make sure it sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T23:57:22.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8889" CreationDate="2021-03-11T18:42:25.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering you didn't add additional requirements for the appearance of your intended piece, I'll take into consideration ease of use, practicality, and longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The most common method, as far as I know, and &lt;strong&gt;the best option for clear but non-intrusive outlines, is to use the pencil&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Use any pencil on the harder range (2H and up), as these won't smudge as much once the watercolour is applied. 2H might be preferable, as it is still the easiest to correct and remove - the higher the ranking goes, the harder and fainter they are. This will work best if you are able to work with a light hand: you definitely don't want grooves in your paper, or to need to use your eraser too aggressively, as this will damage the (surface of the) paper and influence the absorption of the watercolour.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can always opt to erase as much of these lines as practically possible before applying watercolour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QuCMo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QuCMo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;John Ruskin, &lt;em&gt;Ponte dei Pugni&lt;/em&gt;. Watercolour over pencil.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;/ 3. Regular Sharpies, despite the claim, &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.penvibe.com/sharpies-fade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;are not&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://shellielewis.wordpress.com/2012/10/30/sharpie-markers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;permanent&lt;/a&gt;. They don't appear to bleed, though, so maybe the discolouring can actually be beneficial, but since they don't seem to be artist grade, I'd steer away from them. I have never used a Sharpie, though, since they're not as omnipresent in Europe as they are in the States.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My advice: if you're keen on using any kind of marker, test them out in advance, and take into consideration that they might lose or change colour, or buy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/categories/drawing/markers/archival/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;archival markers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &amp;quot;regular black pen&amp;quot; is quite vague: are you talking about ballpoints, rollerball pens, fountain pens? Ballpoints generally don't bleed (unless the paper is damp), and with practice you can get beautiful linework and shading. Rollerball pen inks &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.penheaven.co.uk/blog/rollerball-pens-vs-ballpoint-pens/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;are often water-based&lt;/a&gt;, and will run once the watercolour is applied.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Naturally, you cannot (really) erase the lines of pens, and unless this is the look you're going for or your style, dark contours will change the appearance of your drawings a lot.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you want to use pens, use archival inks, or at least waterproof inks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ApJL7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ApJL7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Arthur Rackham, &lt;em&gt;The Pit and the Pendulum&lt;/em&gt;. Watercolour over ink.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A black colour pencil will definitely smudge once you go over it with watercolour. The black pigment will mix with all watercolours, deadening all colour, while possibly remaining the most distinct feature. Furthermore, black pencil is harder or impossible to erase. There are better alternatives if you want the appearance of black pencil (like a softer pencil (on the B-spectrum) or charcoal).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alternatives:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watercolour pencils&lt;/strong&gt; contain pigments that act like watercolour when water is added, basically being dry watercolour in stick-form, so they will simply mix with your regular watercolours, and dissolve. In my experience they leave traces of lines every here and there, little specks of dry but encapsulated pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watercolour markers&lt;/strong&gt;. Similar to the pencils, these are basically watercolours in stick-form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Similar in appearance to graphite, &lt;strong&gt;charcoal&lt;/strong&gt; was used for underdrawings by nineteenth century illustrators for their watercolour pieces.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The trick is to use as little as possible, buff it into the paper (results with different kinds of paper may vary), and going over it with single, light layers, waiting each time for the layer to dry. You can add a little Arabic gum to seal those first layers in and fixate the charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UtxBF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UtxBF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Elizabeth Shippen Green, &lt;em&gt;Giséle&lt;/em&gt;. Watercolour over charcoal.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure, you can always &lt;strong&gt;test different methods in advance&lt;/strong&gt;: use small pieces of the paper your intended work will be created on, draw fine lines with whatever you fancy, wait until these are completely dry, and add a layer of watercolour to see how they interact. You can seal of the first layer using an artist fixative or a mix of water and Arabic Gum.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Ultimately, this is a personal and creative choice, and dependent on the intended look.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-12T10:18:46.747" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T10:18:46.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9062" CreationDate="2021-03-12T00:59:16.817" Score="4" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;After swatching and blocking, is it common to unravel the swatch and use that yarn in your project? I'm assuming the blocking would change the yarn a bit but that once you blocked the whole finished piece it wouldn't matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T20:03:09.850" Title="Should you reuse your swatch?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9061" CreationDate="2021-03-12T09:15:16.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could, if running out of yarn and the small amount would save you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after unraveling you should steam (or wash if the yarn does not change by that) to relax the yarn, otherwise you may get a different look as the yarn is no longer straight. (Thanks fixer 1234, your remark is now included.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swatches store easily and will provide repair yarn later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2021-03-12T18:25:21.447" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T18:25:21.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-12T11:04:32.147" Score="4" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are these sketches simply drawn by hand with a lot of effort or is there a trick to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9EBq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9EBq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Credit: Naruto, Vol. 1: Uzumaki Naruto (9781569319000)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://64.media.tumblr.com/9a23acbd3985c8bbda16255b1b46b1b2/d7b3d29ef02e3430-9d/s1280x1920/4ab37400b92071c1d0d506f34884eb58d13c2bf9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Version with higher resolution&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10616" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-19T18:34:10.420" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T18:34:10.420" Title="How are sketches like this drawn?" Tags="|drawing|technique-identification|sketching|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9063" CreationDate="2021-03-12T15:19:16.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way I think is common among comic artists is through &lt;strong&gt;instancing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;: after having drawn a few of the figures in different positions, you can copy instances of these individual figures unto the panel using either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a lightbox or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_table&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;light table&lt;/a&gt;, when working with traditional tools, or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;image editing software (e.g. Photoshop or Clip Studio Paint), when taking a digital approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, some specialized software allows for importing 3D models that can be positioned, after which a render can be made that looks like a drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at close inspection, &lt;strong&gt;this particular image doesn't show obvious signs of instancing&lt;/strong&gt;, so I think this was all drawn by hand by Kishimoto.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;That, or the instances were edited afterward (using any of the approaches mentioned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* I'm not sure 'instancing' is the term used in the comic world, though: I know it from 3D editing software and game engines, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geometry_instancing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;where it is common&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-12T15:39:21.023" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T15:39:21.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2242" CreationDate="2021-03-12T16:41:52.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clean my kneaded erasers by stretching them thin like a pancake, then rubbing in dishwashing soap. I let them soak for a few hours in a dish of water, then rub and rinse under the tap. Seems to work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10621" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T16:41:52.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9061" CreationDate="2021-03-12T20:03:09.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a matter of personal preference. Some people always re-use their swatches to save yarn; others never reuse their swatches for a variety of reasons. I fall somewhere in the middle. I usually re-use my swatch for smaller items that only use a ball or two of yarn, items like hats, mittens, and socks. For larger items (like sweaters) that require many balls of yarn, I usually save the swatch and only re-use it if I run out of yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason to save the swatch for larger projects is that gauge is much more crucial than in a smaller project. Sometimes it's helpful to have the swatch around later for troubleshooting. It's also worth taking the time to wash and dry the swatch, whereas I don't usually bother with that for a smaller project. Knitting and washing changes the texture of the yarn, which might make it work up at a slightly different gauge unless you take the extra step of unravelling and relaxing the yarn. Also, in order to wash the swatch you have to break the yarn and separate it from the ball. Once the swatch is separated, it's easier to set it aside and start working from the ball. But if the swatch is still attached to the ball of yarn, I find it easier unravel it and reuse it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason is the amount of yarn in the project. For a small project, I usually only have one or two balls of yarn. The amount of yarn used in the gauge swatch might make the difference between having enough yarn to finish the project or not. For larger projects I try to always have at least one extra ball of yarn, so it's pretty unlikely that I'll need the swatch to finish the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T20:03:09.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-13T10:29:40.443" Score="2" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;what is the name of the knit stitch in the pictures on this page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pimkie.fr/p/pull-grosse-maille-408383E23A0B.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.pimkie.fr/p/pull-grosse-maille-408383E23A0B.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOZke.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOZke.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some patterns online using the same stitch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10624" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T08:45:27.717" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T08:45:27.717" Title="What is the name of the knit stitch on these given pictures?" Tags="|knitting|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-14T07:34:09.513" Score="5" ViewCount="1837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received an oil painting that was not packaged/rolled securely and folded/compressed during transport. Now it has creases. Is there any way to remove these without damaging the painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X1mkR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X1mkR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10628" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T08:40:38.733" Title="Removing creases from an oil painting canvas" Tags="|oil-paint|restoration|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9070" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-03-14T09:47:39.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/color&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;color&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;color&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/color-theory&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;color-theory&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;color-theory&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T09:47:39.313" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T09:47:39.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9071" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-03-14T09:47:39.313" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding the use and properties of lights and lighting as they influence creative projects and processes. These often involve color (and should in those cases be used in combination with the [color] tag)." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T09:47:39.313" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T09:47:39.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9072" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-03-14T16:58:39.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is preferably used in combination with others, like a specific [medium], [technique], or [material] tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T16:58:39.117" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T16:58:39.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9073" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-03-14T16:58:39.117" Score="0" Body="When wondering what kind of technique can or should be used to achieve a certain effect or result. &#xD;&#xA;This can range from e.g. drawing or sewing techniques to preparing materials for processing.&#xD;&#xA;A detailed description of the desired outcome is recommended." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T16:58:39.117" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T16:58:39.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9074" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:03:01.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag can likely be used in combination with other tags, like a specific [medium], [technique], or [material] tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tool-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tool-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;tool-selection&lt;/a&gt; - when you don't know what tool to use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tool-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tool-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;tool-identification&lt;/a&gt; - when you're unsure about what a specific tool does&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tool-fabrication&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tool-fabrication&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;tool-fabrication&lt;/a&gt; - when you want to create a specific tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:03:01.640" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:03:01.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9075" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:03:01.640" Score="0" Body="For inquiring about changing, adapting, and improving tools used during projects. &#xD;&#xA;Please provide details on the tool's current condition/situation and the intended result." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:03:01.640" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:03:01.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9076" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:06:19.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:06:19.067" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:06:19.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9077" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:06:19.067" Score="0" Body="Use when your question is about the creation of a specific material.&#xD;&#xA;Use in combination with the tag for the target material or the medium it is most closely associated with.&#xD;&#xA;Please provide a detailed description of the type and/or characteristics of the desired material (if applicable)." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:06:19.067" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:06:19.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9078" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:14:50.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pottery is &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;the process and the products of forming vessels and other objects with clay and other ceramic materials&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; (source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pottery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ceramics&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ceramics&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ceramics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/clay&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;clay&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;clay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/kiln&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;kiln&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;kiln&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:14:50.610" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:14:50.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9079" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:14:50.610" Score="0" Body="For questions involving creation, modification, or repairing of pottery. Pottery includes the process of forming objects with clay or other ceramic materials, and the products of this process." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:14:50.610" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:14:50.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9080" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:34:20.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carving&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/wood-carving&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood-carving&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;wood-carving&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sculpting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sculpting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/etching&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;etching&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;etching&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/wood&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;wood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/bone&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;bone&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;bone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/leather&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;leather&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;leather&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:34:20.743" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:34:20.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9081" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:34:20.743" Score="0" Body="Using a knife or other sharp tools to modify objects, often for decoration purposes, by cutting away excess material. This can include certain forms of or steps taken during sculpting. For questions about carving wood specifically, please use the [wood-carving] tag." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:40:14.667" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:40:14.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9082" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:46:25.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/carving&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;carving&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;carving&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/wood&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;wood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sculpting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sculpting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:46:25.080" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:46:25.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9083" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-03-14T17:46:25.080" Score="0" Body="For questions about either the act of using a sharp tool to modify wood by cutting away excess material, or the wooden object produced that way. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T17:46:25.080" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T17:46:25.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9067" CreationDate="2021-03-14T18:16:02.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sweater is probably made on a knitting machine, but you can reproduce the look on knitting needles. It looks like either &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/fishermans-rib-vs-brioche-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fisherman's rib or brioche stitch&lt;/a&gt;, with added &lt;a href=&quot;https://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-the-tuck-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tuck stitches&lt;/a&gt; every 3 or 4 rows. To make a tuck stitch, instead of knitting into the next live stitch, you knit into that stitch &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the stitch below it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brioche and tuck stitches are a broad category including many stitch patterns. You can find knitting patterns with these stitches &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#pa=brioche-tuck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Ravelry with the search filter Attributes: Fabric Characteristics - brioche / tuck stitch&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T18:16:02.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2153" CreationDate="2021-03-16T19:11:23.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am surprised to see that no-one has yet mentioned &lt;strong&gt;understanding and employing perspective&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the 2D grid recommended in other answers will enable you to achieve precise interrelation and proportions between the details of the subject. But it will not teach you about &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; those details are where you see and depict them. Thinking in 3D, according to the framework of linear perspective, does that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, anything in life-drawing (and especially drawing from imagination) is getting conscious about the structure of the subject in 3D, and then demonstrating that structure on the paper as best as I can (translating it back into 2D). First comes demonstrating just the 3D structure, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; comes building up the details of the subject on top of that preliminary sketch of the basic structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the beginning, one does not need to make it overly complex and demanding, like a human figure &amp;amp; head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most often, people start learning and practicing perspective by drawing cubes and similar abstract objects. Even if it feels boring and uninviting, this part is hard to skip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one can quickly transition to some real-life subjects, which could still count as simple. Drawing a loaf of bread with a kettle and a teacup next to it could already be a helpful subject. Or, put half a pair of shoes next to a vacuum cleaner. Anything that's made up from few basic forms, but already has a lot of curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for, and reproduce just the basic shapes that they consist of. When you feel that you got their spatial arrangement and proportions right, jump into developing some detail on them. Create different compositions out of them, place yourself sometimes nearer, sometimes a bit further away from the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have gained confidence disassembling these random objects in your head to their 3D essentials, then re-assemble them on the paper, you will have the basis to handle life-drawing, including the human head, with a similar thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proko.com/library/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lessons from Stan Prokopenko&lt;/a&gt; to get you started:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proko.com/structure-basics-making-things-look-3d/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making things look 3D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proko.com/how-to-draw-the-head-from-any-angle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to draw the head from any angle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.proko.com/quickly-draw-heads-with-the-loomis-method-part-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drawing heads with the Loomis method&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After these, you could look up something on YouTube on the specifics of 2-point and 3-point perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For life drawing specifically, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQgjZbGK8Yc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;learn to measure proportions with your pencil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have developed a sense for thinking and sketching in 3D, and you can fit things successfully into a linear perspective framework, you can still bring forth the grid that others recommended: it may help you to achieve higher precision in quicker time. But experience in working in 3D will deliver an essential contribution towards more convincing results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10433" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T08:40:36.327" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T08:40:36.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-17T12:22:39.037" Score="3" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anybody ever tried embroidering floral designs by hand on tulle or other netting fabrics (see picture) and has some ideas and suggestions?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Do we need any special needle or tools for embroidering on netting fabric?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yaeoy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yaeoy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Net fabric&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4682" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T16:27:17.070" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T18:32:46.843" Title="How to do embroidery on tulle netting fabric?" Tags="|embroidery|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9091" CreationDate="2021-03-18T11:21:23.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use all embrodery technics as long as you realize that the back will be visible. Not just the back, the threads will be visible all along, but so do the knots and mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is likely best to keep your fabric in a hoop or stretched over a frame, so you will not draw it in while working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are special stitches which are the same front and back. You can find them online or in older books.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;One stitch I remember is like weaving, filling a few holes at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you are not restricted to those stitches, you can use most stitches, as long as the 'back' does not spoil the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just ran a google search on -embroidery on tulle- and got so many results that I tried to specify and added -stitches- but the results are still way to many to pick one.&#xA;If you like videos, youtube has several.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is a random one that I liked when I saw it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dzq5d3pP6IQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dzq5d3pP6IQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is a text and pictures page, which does explain how to work on tule, again a random choice, I have no links with the site or people behind it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crewelghoul.com/blog/how-to-hand-embroider-on-tulle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://crewelghoul.com/blog/how-to-hand-embroider-on-tulle/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T18:32:46.843" LastActivityDate="2021-03-18T18:32:46.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-18T16:35:50.420" Score="4" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently in the process of learning the five-hole ground used in Flanders bobbin lace. However, I can only find information on the ground, not on how to transition from the ground to cloth stitch flowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need more pins in the cloth stitch than you use in the ground, and if so, how do you then go back to the ground? Does the cloth stitch need a multiple of four pairs in it, and if not, how do you account for that in the ground?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10650" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-18T17:26:26.043" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T15:11:21.747" Title="How does Flanders ground connect to cloth stitch?" Tags="|sewing|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7932" CreationDate="2021-03-19T10:33:48.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing the door is going to be much easier than making a sink/basin from scratch.  By far the simplest way is using a pelmet and sliding door on the outside of the bathroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are convinced that this will not guarantee privacy or confine possible odours to the bathroom, you might want to use a bifold door. There are both central and side locking versions, and they fit a standard door opening just as closely as a standard side-hinged door.&#xA;Something like this ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1NhEP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T10:33:48.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7932" CreationDate="2021-03-20T15:12:16.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Large items are not made with epoxy; they may possibly be made with epoxy with very substantial additions of fiberglass and minerals like limestone. The great majority of sinks are made with polyester filled with fiberglass and minerals. If you can find a local producer, he could make a custom sink for you. It may not be expensive, partly because he may have molds pretty close to what you want. When I visited the shop that made our 12 ft. long sink with two angles, it was a routine job. On reconsideration, yours is a standard &amp;quot;custom&amp;quot; sink, nothing out of the ordinary if you find a local producer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-03-23T14:20:28.260" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T14:20:28.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9068" CreationDate="2021-03-20T22:57:49.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stretching it properly on the right sized frame should be enough to remove the creases, no water required. Properly is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Procuring a support of the right dimensions. The original frame on which the work was painted would be the best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Centering the painting on the support, and tacking (stapling) the work&#xA;to the frame at the midpoint of each edge. This will be on the back of the work so put something on the table to protect the painting. Or, more challenging, do not place flat on table at all instead keeping in on the edge of the frame and only resting on the unworked edge of the painting under it on that side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stretch and tack (staple) the painting outward from the centers balancing the tension by working one center to edge, then the opposite side center to edge, and so on...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may require some force to get the right tension but do not use too much or you will twist the frame. When stretching raw canvas water does help loosen the fibers and will dry much tighter and smoother. However it would be best to avoid water of any type on the finished piece. It could cause damage possibly staining the work, separating the paint from the canvas, encouraging mold and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2021-03-20T22:57:49.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9068" CreationDate="2021-03-21T08:34:12.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You should &lt;strong&gt;stretch it on a frame&lt;/strong&gt;. That way, in time, it will readjust itself.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Do not force the stretching (which is something the word 'stretching' implies). Allow the canvas to flatten itself.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;With heavy creases you might have to stretch the canvas several times for all wrinkles to disappear. Be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A completely safe and archival way&lt;/strong&gt; (no force involved), is to &lt;strong&gt;mount the artwork on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_table&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vacuum table&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cLJGo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cLJGo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Snapshot from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOOQl0hC18U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; by Baumgartner Restoration&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the table it can be sealed in, and while the table (if desired) warms up the canvas in a controlled way (usually in combination with heat-activated archival adhesives), the air will get sucked out from the envelope, allowing the user to smooth out remaining creases and wrinkles.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Obviously, a vacuum or hot table is not something everyone has access to, but I'm mentioning it since it seems the safest and most effective option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-03-21T08:40:38.733" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T08:40:38.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9101" CreationDate="2021-03-21T21:08:33.983" Score="3" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a series of small crafts in walnut shells and want to turn them into lockets of a sort by gluing a ribbon (or thin strip of cotton fabric) to the outside so I can tie them shut. I'm having trouble getting the glue to work properly, especially with ribbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried Mod Podge, which didn't hold at all, and LePage wood glue, which mostly works if I use thin cotton fabric but is flimsy enough that it comes off with a bit of a yank. It's even worse if I try to use a silky ribbon or a piece of lace. Are there better ways to get fabric and walnut shells to bind, or should I just be very careful with them as is? (I know the other option is to attach the ribbon on the inside, but that won't let me secure it closed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10665" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T07:48:53.900" Title="Gluing fabric or ribbon to walnut shells" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|fabric|miniatures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9100" CreationDate="2021-03-21T22:04:03.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the ribbon is polyester or nylon, it will be hard to make a strong bond to it.  Most adhesives will stick a ribbon to something if it's only decorative and won't really get pulled.  You need something more secure if the ribbon is going to serve as a hinge or closure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can use a ribbon made from cotton, lots of glues will make a strong bond.  Even regular PVA glue (e.g., Elmers), should work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer to stick with a polyester or nylon ribbon, at least you won't need a &amp;quot;structural&amp;quot; adhesive (something that makes a bond as strong as the material, itself); a locket won't get &amp;quot;abusive&amp;quot; handling.  So an adhesive like E6000 would probably be strong enough for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach would be to create a hinge with a strip of cotton fabric that can be bonded well to the walnut.  The walnut is a curved surface, so a wide hinge won't work (everything but the widest part of the shell will move apart when you open it).  You would need to create something with an &amp;quot;H&amp;quot; shape (turned sideways).  The connector in the middle would be the hinge, located at the widest point of the shell.  The long legs would each go on one half of the shell to provide a longer gluing surface.  Embed the polyester or nylon ribbon tie under the hinge part in the middle so the hinge holds the ribbon in place.  A little glue on the ribbon will provide enough friction so it won't easily pull out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T22:04:03.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9100" CreationDate="2021-03-22T07:48:53.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plain old construction silicone might do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Construction silicone is designed to stick to as many materials as possible. The fact that it stays flexible after curing makes the bond very long lasting because it cannot crumple. Transparent silicone has the added benefit of being somewhat invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can apply the silicone with your fingers or disposable tools like a popsicle stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squeeze some silicone from the cartridge and use the popsicle stick to transfer a very small dollop onto the walnut shell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dip your finger into a glass of water with a generous amount of dishwashing liquid to stop the silicone from sticking to them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can then smooth the silicone over the shell with your wet finger. Take care not to soak the walnut shell or the silicone will not stick to it well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gently squeeze the ribbon into the silicone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience I suspect the ribbon will bond with the silicone for all eternity and never let go. The walnut shell might be the weak link because of its smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T07:48:53.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-22T10:00:48.737" Score="6" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of making some stencils on black fabric, but I'm not sure what paint would work best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the internet tutorials say fabric paint is best, but I've painted with white fabric paint on black T-shirts and I wasn't very pleased with the result - I couldn't get the white to be, well, white enough and it looked faded (black paint on white fabric was alright, but not the other way round). I was thinking of using spray paint instead or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions what paint could give me a solid bright white stencil on black fabric?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10667" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T14:11:49.597" Title="Paint for stencils on black fabric" Tags="|material-selection|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3823" CreationDate="2021-03-22T10:17:08.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a form of &lt;strong&gt;hierarchical proportion&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hierarchical proportion is a technique used in art, mostly in sculpture and painting, in which the artist uses &lt;em&gt;unnatural proportion or scale to depict the relative importance of the figures&lt;/em&gt; in the artwork.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hierarchical_proportion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger figures in these images play a larger role within the context, have a higher value or authority, are wealthier, more powerful, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been used throughout the history of the visual arts:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Well-known examples include religious depictions (e.g. Madonna with Child, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Last_Judgment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Last Judgment&lt;/a&gt;), societal depictions (where those with higher ranks or power are relatively larger, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.davisart.com/blogs/curators-corner/hierarchical-size/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;family group sculptures from ancient Egypt&lt;/a&gt;, or the donors of an artwork), depictions of royalty (think about Egyptian reliefs, or the &lt;a href=&quot;https://smarthistory.org/victory-stele-of-naram-sin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stele of Naram-Sin&lt;/a&gt;), and narratives (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.givethedogabone.co.uk/img/product/star-wars-poster-a-new-hope-12009897-600.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;posters of Star Wars&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T10:17:08.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9025" CreationDate="2021-03-22T17:44:12.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just put it in a watertight container and shake it. A lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10538" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T17:44:12.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2995" CreationDate="2021-03-23T00:36:07.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use mod podge (decoupage glue) to decoupage your paper designs onto the mugs and plates - there are many tutorials for decoupage all over the he internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your decoupaged mugs / plates are completely dry and cured (leave it for a few days to be sure) you can apply several thin coats of a water based polyurethane varnish (leaving plenty of time for each layer to dry) to seal it and make it food and dishwasher safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T00:36:07.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9103" CreationDate="2021-03-23T12:05:20.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a short-term solution any acryllic paint should work. Acryllics dry &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; waterproof and (depending on the dilution and quality of the paint) can cover black fabric with solid white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that it's only &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; waterproof... The paint won't dissolve in the washing machine, but it will get somewhat sticky, especially if washed at higher temperatures. Big areas or thick layers of paint might stick together or collect all kinds of fuzz and hairs in the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a more professional solution, I'd suggest iron-on film for best opacity, but that has to be cut by a plotter or laser cutter to look professional in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T12:05:20.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9103" CreationDate="2021-03-23T14:11:49.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is the opacity of most fabric paints; most liquid ones are only designed to work effectively on a white or light-colored shirt, and the thick plasticky &amp;quot;puffy paint&amp;quot; writers aren't going to be effective over large areas or in stencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working with just white, opaque white screen printing ink for fabric works very well. It will handle similarly to paint, and like paint you'll need to be careful about it bleeding over the edges, but it will bind to the fabric and retain its white color. Unfortunately, most other colors of screen printing ink tend to be translucent, with the expectation that they would be applied over a layer of the white ink. While aligning the two layers is fairly trivial in a professional setting, it may be more challenging with a hobbyist setup using regular stencils. As you mention just &amp;quot;solid bright white&amp;quot; in your question, however, this is likely your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screen printing ink can be purchased in most places that sell art supplies, as well as some crafting supply stores; be sure to check that the type you are purchasing is for use on fabric (Speedball brand has distinct formulae for paper vs fabric printing, while Jacquard branded inks are formulated for both grounds; other brands may vary). Follow the instructions for setting as described on the container for your best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T14:11:49.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2021-03-25T03:14:35.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could put it outside for a few days (avoiding the rain).  The paper would soak up humidity from the air and would womple a bit - I mean, it would lose a bit of it's pristine quality - a part of aging.  And if you left it in the sun, it would bleach a little.  The weathering would also alter it's texture a little bit, too, and change the colours of anything written or printed on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper left outside would definitely look older than nice, fresh, clean paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastActivityDate="2021-03-25T03:14:35.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7659" CreationDate="2021-03-26T19:16:49.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of options, depending on what you want to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a very natural look, are not in a hurry and just want the paper to appear slightly yellowed/ivory, but not have a &amp;quot;handled&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;damaged&amp;quot; appearance, you can accelerate normal aging by using heat and UV light - a tanning lamp works, as does hanging the paper in a window that gets a lot of exposure to direct sunlight and periodically heating it even more using a hairdryer or ironing it with a hot iron.  This will take a week or two, and will not work with acid-free paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more brown and &amp;quot;damaged&amp;quot; look, you can smoke the paper over an open flame.  This takes some practice to get the amount of yellowing/browning you want and will also make the paper more brittle an more likely to tear when printing, so if you go this route, be prepared to waste some paper getting it right. You might also want to strengthen the paper &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; smoking but before printing by spraying the back (the side you are not planning to print on) with a thin layer of acrylic varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the paper to look like it was handled frequently, crumble it it up in a ball and smooth it out a few times, then sprinkle it with ash (from burnt paper, cigarette or dry grass that leaves a light grey or slightly cream/yellow ash) rub the ash in with cotton wool, then iron the paper so it is smooth enough to print on. The ash will colour all of the paper a bit, but the creased areas wil be darker due to the size (smooth surface layer) being broken and the fibres slightly frayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a beige coloured pencil or dry pastel you are prepared to waste a chunk of, you can shave and powder that and rub it into the paper with cotton wool instead. This will obviously work better with paper that is slightly textured and doesn't have a glossy surface, such as paper meant for watercolours or charcoal drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use the method (also suggested by Chris H) of printing the look you want.  If you do, I suggest you print the &amp;quot;paper&amp;quot; background first, leave the ink to dry completely, then iron the paper (on the back) to cure it a bit and then print your image on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the other techniques are &amp;quot;wet&amp;quot; methods, so I'm leaving them out of this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing: Bear in mind that under normal circumstances a drawn image or photo will age with the paper it is on, so having a fresh, vibrantly coloured image on &amp;quot;aged&amp;quot; paper is going to look unnatural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastActivityDate="2021-03-26T19:16:49.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-28T00:10:32.947" Score="7" ViewCount="2079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of roughly fist-sized plastic&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt; pieces that I'd like to paint (I'll post a pic as soon as I can); preferably with a spray but brush is OK too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I intend to lay down a primer (for this material any ABS / styrene primer will do, and I know at least Montana and Tamiya brand plastic primers definitely work). Then I'm going to paint. Solid color, no fine details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, this plastic is &lt;em&gt;mildly&lt;/em&gt; flexible. It's not straight up bendy or squishy, but it's more like a really stiff rubber, like the kind of stuff you might see used as feet for cheap metal furniture (that's the only example I can think of). It's got a &amp;quot;softness&amp;quot; to it like... you feel like you will be able to bend it but you kind of can't, if that makes sense. So it's not going to be all over the place but it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; perfectly rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of that, I'm worried that an enamel paint (it's all I'm really familiar with besides &amp;quot;latex&amp;quot;, as I usually work with metal and wood) will start to crack and chip fairly quickly. I've also got my fingers crossed that the primer won't do the same thing, since I have zero experience with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, that was a super long-winded way of saying: What kind of paint can I use? It's got to have &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; pliability / elasticity when dry, and should at least be compatible with whatever ABS / styrene primers are made out of. Also, the pieces won't be handled &lt;em&gt;super&lt;/em&gt; roughly but they will definitely get handled frequently, so it's got to be at least somewhat durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points if it blocks UV, but that's really just icing on the cake (also the primer might, not sure, will have to look it up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt; It's actually resin, not plastic. Specifically it's FormLabs Durable resin off an SLA printer, and the pieces are thick enough to make it rather stiff. But ABS primers are manufacturer recommended so it's simpler just to say plastic here (I mean, it's a polymer at least). It's mechanically closer to a polyethylene or polypropylene plastic, and chemically closer to ABS, than it is to a polyester or polyurethane resin.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4839" LastEditorUserId="4839" LastEditDate="2021-03-28T22:25:07.290" LastActivityDate="2021-12-06T14:07:15.660" Title="What type of paint for mildly flexible plastics?" Tags="|painting|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-03-28T13:20:49.087" Score="3" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are all ruffles gathered, or are there different types of non-gathered ruffles? I am new to sewing and I was wondering if all ruffles are gathered or not. By ruffles, I mean the ruffles we often see in skirts and other female pieces of clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10708" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T13:31:28.453" Title="Are all ruffles gathered, or are there different types of non-gathered ruffles?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10116" CreationDate="2021-03-28T19:35:31.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That might depend a bit on your definition, but generally I’d say no:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sewing there are a few common ways to make ruffles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The probably first method would be to make a basting stich, pull on the thread and create ruffles by gathering the fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A very related version is to lay a length of very sturdy string (think floss or fishing line) on the fabric and sew over that with a zig-zag stich. Pull on the floss to gather the fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or sew a &lt;em&gt;stretched&lt;/em&gt; length of elastic on the fabric, which will create the ruffles when it contracts again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may consider these all as versions of “gathering”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also make very small pleats instead of the „pulling and bunching up“. Whether that fits your definition of „gathering“ or not is up to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, a ruffle is created by changing the respective lengths of fabric - either by joining a longer (-&amp;gt; gathered) and a shorter piece or by contracting a central part for a double-edged ruffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A completely different approach can be done with other techniques like crochet - creating ruffles by effectively making more stitches than would fit if the piece were flat, so that the result bunches up in ruffles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2021-03-28T19:43:28.747" LastActivityDate="2021-03-28T19:43:28.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10116" CreationDate="2021-03-29T09:27:18.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to make ruffles, but some of them are out of fashion now. Ruffles went through several hundred years of development and changing fashion, and sometimes went by different names, depending on the construction method and where they were attached to the garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common ruffle (today) is a long strip of fabric that is gathered along one long side. &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10117/6316&quot;&gt;Stephie&lt;/a&gt; has already listed various ways how to create them. Pro tip: If you sew 2 gathering stitches in parallel and pull both of them, the ruffle will be neater and easier to attach to the straight fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sew your gathering line in the middle of the strip of fabric, you end up with a &lt;strong&gt;double ruffle&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;frill&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AirC4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AirC4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruffle that is not gathered can be achieved by cutting a big circle, spiral or halfmoon shape from fabric and sewing the inner edge in a straight line to the piece of clothing. Since the inner circumference is smaller than the outer one, the fabric is longer on the outer edge and falls in waves. Technically this is called a &lt;strong&gt;flounce&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;circular ruffle&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DpPzs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DpPzs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;difference between ruffles and flounces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thecuttingclass.com/flounces-ruffles-circular-ruffles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can achieve a very similar effect with &lt;strong&gt;knit fabrics&lt;/strong&gt;. Knits like jersey are stretchy, so by stretching the edge of the fabric while hemming it, you automatically create a ruffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To create a &lt;strong&gt;jersey frill&lt;/strong&gt;, cut a long strip and stretch the fabric along the short width while feeding it into your machine. This automatically gathers the center of the strip. Have a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/T9xFDQZzAOY?t=23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video tutorial&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically, there were also pleated ruffles, but they are not very common anymore. &lt;a href=&quot;http://bandycanyon.blogspot.com/2010/08/ruffle-tutorial.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knife pleated ruffles&lt;/a&gt; can be made relatively easily on a sewing machine and there are even special sewing foots that automatically pleat the fabric while it's sewn. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onlinefabricstore.com/makersmill/how-to-make-pleated-and-gathered-ruffles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Box pleated ruffles&lt;/a&gt; are a little harder to make because (as far as I know) there's no way to automate the pleating (at least not for a hobby sewer). Often these are simply called &lt;strong&gt;pleats&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iv6G3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iv6G3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Knife pleated ruffle, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bandycanyon.blogspot.com/2010/08/ruffle-tutorial.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2uHMHm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2uHMHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Box pleated ruffle, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.onlinefabricstore.com/makersmill/how-to-make-pleated-and-gathered-ruffles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with the gathered ruffle, you can move the gathering line to the center of the fabric to get &lt;strong&gt;pleated frills&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One very special way of pleating is the &lt;strong&gt;cartridge pleat&lt;/strong&gt;, which is most prominently seen in historical &lt;strong&gt;ruff collars&lt;/strong&gt;. If you make your pleats very small and tight, you end up with a ruffle that stands perpendicular to the fabric it's sewn to (if it's sewn in the correct way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jgu8Y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jgu8Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Cartridge pleats, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thecuttingclass.com/creating-cartridge-pleats/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-03-30T13:31:28.453" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T13:31:28.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8782" CreationDate="2021-03-31T05:47:03.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope you were able to figure something out! If you're talking about carrying the red yarn up as you knit the green stripe, you could do something very similar every other row on the right side as you did when catching your floats; twist or wrap the red yarn around the green once before you begin working the row. This is (slightly) better hidden from the right side when you're slipping the first stitch too. You may see a little of the red on the edge of the object, but I've never had enough to bother me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10736" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T05:47:03.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10121" CreationDate="2021-03-31T13:01:48.253" Score="3" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making some small curtains with both sides facing inside the house (they're for a cabin bed).  Normally the inside (fancy) fabric would be folded over and slightly larger than the lining fabric, so the edges are the nice fabric, the lining is smaller, and the seam on the lining side away from the fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When lining with the same fabric, should I do the same, or cut both pieces the same and have the seam at the fold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Apologies for poor terminology; I'm new to this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2021-04-01T15:00:26.260" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T14:38:03.817" Title="Curtains lined with the same material: where should I put the seam?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10120" CreationDate="2021-03-31T16:02:02.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you will mostly view the curtain from one side, handle that as the 'side you look at in normal curtains', do have that side a bit bigger and fold the edges over to seem them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you will see the whole of the curtain from both sides and you will want both to look nice, two pieces of fabric the same size, put the good side on the good side and sew around the outside, I would leave either the top or the bottom open for now. Turn and top stitch just inside the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely you will do something in the top seam to hang the curtain. If you have the skills to do that with the two layers of fabric finishing it nicely at the same time, keep the top open.&#xA;Otherwise, close the top and keep the bottom open and 'only' top-stitch that closed. (You can even seam both sides individually and leave them open at the bottom, your call, if will fall better but is more likely to get out of shape.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the side seam is shorter or more out of sight you can use that as the last instead. You can play around quite a lot, as nobody but you will judge your quality of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-03-31T16:02:02.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4225" CreationDate="2021-04-01T04:55:33.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope you were able to find a good solution! I know that with the kind of skeins that Matt linked, you'll almost always get a frustrating (and huge) amount of yarn barf. Once I had nearly half a skein of it because the center-pull line got tucked into a weird place!&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt; Anyway, &lt;/b&gt;I've found that a good solution, if you don't have a yarn winder and don't intend to get one, is a good old fashioned toilet paper tube and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1r1eYsqeMV0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hand winding&lt;/a&gt;. To do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a small slit in one end of the tube (no more than 1/2&amp;quot; or 1 cm is really needed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the lead end of the yarn into the center of the tube and secure it - you can do this with tape, making sure the yarn is snug in the slit, or holding it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap the yarn around the tube while detangling the yarn barf. To make a center-pull cake that won't disintegrate while you use it, slowly turn the tube while wrapping at a consistent 45-ish degree angle - you'll need to play with how you hold the tube to get comfortable. See the image below for a rough illustration of what I'm describing!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2qj5B.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2qj5B.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps you (or someone else!)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10736" LastEditorUserId="10736" LastEditDate="2021-04-01T07:39:12.743" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T07:39:12.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10126" CreationDate="2021-04-01T05:02:00.850" Score="9" ViewCount="1188" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes on those long car rides, coloring doesn't cut it for a kid when parents are trying to avoid screen time. What are some good crafts that a kiddo can do in the car without making an overly difficult to clean mess? For example, slime is out, and so is anything with runny glue. I won't leave out glue sticks, however!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10736" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T17:44:31.660" Title="What are some good car-crafts for long trips?" Tags="|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2021-05-25T15:46:17.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2021-04-01T05:26:15.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@111 has the answer for the big loop (slip the first stitch, aka move between needles without knitting), but I'd like to add that ending up with extra stitches is also a common problem. Make sure that when you're knitting, you don't accidentally wrap the yarn around your needle; your knitting is especially vulnerable to this when you're picking it back up after setting it down or stopping what you were doing. This is a legitimate technique called a &amp;quot;yarn over&amp;quot;, which creates stitches. If you see holes in your work as well as extra stitches, this is likely what's happening!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that you can fix this long after you've passed them through a technique I call &amp;quot;tink and tighten&amp;quot;, where you tink (undo knitting) from above, removing the extra stitch, and then tighten all the stitches around the dropped ones to distribute the extra yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10736" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T05:26:15.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10120" CreationDate="2021-04-01T06:33:34.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to intentionally make the outer fabric more visible on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the inside (fancy) fabric would be folded over and slightly larger than the lining fabric, so the edges are the nice fabric, the lining is smaller, and the seam on the lining side away from the fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the way to go for most lined pieces of clothing. Now, if you make the lining - let's say - 2 inches smaller and the outer fabric 2 inches longer, your seam would be on the backside of the curtain and show a strip of outer fabric next to the lining fabric. Depending on the colors and patterns of the fabric, this could create a very nice and decorative accent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To assemble this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Align one long edge of both fabrics, right sides facing each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First sew the long seam and either press it open (if both fabrics have the same weight) or press it over to the side of the lightweight fabric (if one is much lighter than the other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then align the top edges of the fabric, still right sides facing each other. Add your solution to hang the curtain at this stage. For example, if you want to add loops to hang the curtain, you put each loop between your both fabric layers and align the open end of the loop with the open end of the curtain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pin the short edges into this position and sew both sides, while leaving an openig to turn it over. Clip the corners, turn the curtain over (right sides out) and press the side seams. If the side seams don't lay flat, you might need to top stitch over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if everything looks fine and straight, press the crease into the bottom edge of the curtain. This should be the last step because (depending on the fabric) it might be impossible to remove the crease again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T06:33:34.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10123" CreationDate="2021-04-01T10:46:51.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kits in general are good because they tend to be self-contained with all the materials, and tell you what else to bring - forgetting a key item is frustrating for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are various sewing craft kits, often using a plastic needle and pre-punched holes at least for younger ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Faux stained glass kits are tidy but might need too much of a steady hand for road trips, depending on your roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't think of them as craft but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Melissa-Doug-Reusable-Sticker-Pad/dp/B00U3G9QLK?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&amp;amp;psc=1?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&amp;amp;psc=1%27&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;books with reusable stickers and background scenes&lt;/a&gt; are good, and can include a story-telling aspect if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These kits can get repetitive or expensive if you travel a lot, so some alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Anything with stickers should work - perhaps sticker mosaics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For an (almost) free option, collage using glue sticks and pictures from old magazines.  You may want to pre-cut the magazines, or have an adult cut them, as depending on the age of the kids and the state of the roads scissors may not be a good idea for children.  When using a glue sticks, a plastic lap tray with edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This will depend on how messily your children use them, but rubber stamps and ink pads can be quite fun (I've seen children playing together, one with clean hands, another using the ink pad for hand-prints - and it wasn't washable ink)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Activity books that mix colouring/drawing activities with non-craft activities such as puzzles will give some variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely not craft, but games involving looking out of the window are always a good bet: who can spot something first (horse/emergency service vehicle/purple car etc.); guess how many of a particular object you'll see by the time you reach some defined point (about 10 minutes works) - who gets closest.  This works from surprisingly young as they just need to be able to count; you can also bring in basic arithmetic (&amp;quot;you guessed 8, we've seen 7, so one more and you win&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T10:46:51.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10123" CreationDate="2021-04-01T14:39:13.563" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For children in the range of 10 years old, Macrame can make a good time-killer in the car.  I like it because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supplies are generally cheap and not messy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crafts can take a long time, so a single craft can make time fly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are very basic knots to very complicated knots, so kids can grow at a skill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For children as young as 4, you can try out origami. Origami is great because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are tons of designs to exercise the imagination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the folding is done, you've got a new paper toy to play with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No glue or cutting necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10755" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T14:39:13.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10147" CreationDate="2021-04-02T06:00:25.680" Score="2" ViewCount="1005" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using graphite is somewhat risky. I've seen that when I use graphite it ends up very shiny, am I doing anything wrong? If im correct, the process is: apply the charcoal then the graphite, but how can you &amp;quot;dim&amp;quot; the shine of the graphite without using &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/4186/how-to-stop-or-reduce-graphite-from-reflecting-light&quot;&gt;said&lt;/a&gt; products? Can you add x layer to make it more like a&#xA;&amp;quot;matte grayish&amp;quot; tone? (if that makes sense?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-06T17:06:23.863" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T22:38:45.277" Title="How do I mix charcoal and graphite correctly?" Tags="|drawing|charcoal|blending|technique-selection|graphite|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10123" CreationDate="2021-04-02T17:44:31.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what your kids are interested in, an electronics or robotics kit might be in order. I had one as a kid that kept me busy and interested during a 2 day drive from Iowa to Colorado, through Nebraska. These may not technically be &amp;quot;arts &amp;amp; crafts&amp;quot;, but they should be effective and many of them were created as &amp;quot;arts &amp;amp; crafts&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a brief list of ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homesciencetools.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homesciencetools.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(Might want to stay away from the Gauss rifle in the car.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://spy.com/articles/lifestyle/parenting/best-electronic-toy-kits-for-kids-star-wars-educational-92738/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://spy.com/articles/lifestyle/parenting/best-electronic-toy-kits-for-kids-star-wars-educational-92738/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(R2D2 is cool (I have it), but kind of large. The Arduino needs a computer and internet to program.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reviewgeek.com/6608/the-best-electronics-kits-for-kids-of-all-ages/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reviewgeek.com/6608/the-best-electronics-kits-for-kids-of-all-ages/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ozobot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://ozobot.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other options available, but many require programming, soldering, or assembly of lots of tiny, easy to lose pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get logic puzzles or brain teasers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bitsandpieces.com/category/brainteasers-and-other-puzzles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bitsandpieces.com/category/brainteasers-and-other-puzzles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.seriouspuzzles.com/brain-teasers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.seriouspuzzles.com/brain-teasers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shopping.google.com/u/0/s?m=1261544&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://shopping.google.com/u/0/s?m=1261544&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some oldies, but goodies (and also actual &amp;quot;arts &amp;amp; crafts&amp;quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.target.com/p/the-original-spirograph-drawing-set-with-markers/-/A-14794410&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.target.com/p/the-original-spirograph-drawing-set-with-markers/-/A-14794410&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/rubber-bands-bracelets/s?k=rubber+bands+for+bracelets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/rubber-bands-bracelets/s?k=rubber+bands+for+bracelets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Books-Origami/zgbs/books/5159&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Books-Origami/zgbs/books/5159&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://starwarsorigami.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://starwarsorigami.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/0804186529&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Knitting-Without-Needles-Stylish-Introduction/dp/0804186529&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.joann.com/needle-arts/cross-stitch-and-embroidery/cross-stitch-kits/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.joann.com/needle-arts/cross-stitch-and-embroidery/cross-stitch-kits/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint by sticker? Who knew?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/best-paint-by-sticker-books-4159459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/best-paint-by-sticker-books-4159459&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, I'm not affiliated in any way with any of these sites or products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'm not going to admit how many I'm going to get for myself. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T17:44:31.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10133" CreationDate="2021-04-03T14:59:57.163" Score="3" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to separate (unply?) yarn into smaller &amp;quot;strands&amp;quot; and recombine (reply?) them in different combinations? For example, if I have a blue yarn and a red yarn, is there an easy way to break up each into separate strands and twist them together to create yarn that has both blue and red twisted together (without being any thicker (heavier?) than the original yarn)? Is there some sort of mechanical device or technique that can make this easier? I sometimes weave small tapestries (as I think you would call them) and have seen people online weave with multiple full pieces of yarn at once (as if they were one piece), and I would like a similar effect without having to use two full pieces of yarn at once (although I suppose I could just use two &amp;quot;half-pieces&amp;quot; from separated yarn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10766" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T09:47:03.293" Title="How can I separate and recombine yarn?" Tags="|yarn|weaving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10132" CreationDate="2021-04-04T09:47:03.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, even when you can split the yarn, it will be easier to buy thinner yarn or use the yarn you have in alternate turns, mixing the colours by using them next to each other. You also control the use of colours better that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test whether the yarn can be split at all, take a short length and take it apart. If the different parts split off easily you can go on and try a longer bit.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Often the yarn has fibres sticking out and getting caught in the other strand in the process of twining and winding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To split big lengths you will need to spin the boll of yarn at the same speed as you un-twine, or it needs to be allowed to spin freely while you take it apart without putting any stress on the more delicate strands.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;While you untwist and split the yarn you need to wind the two (or more) stands at the same speed and the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I am sure you can make a machine to do the work, I doubt it will be easy to buy one, I do not remember ever having seen or heard about one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with the advice my textile-crafts teacher told me back when we were weaving with colours. Do not try to work with mixed colours. Do one or two strands of one colour and then one or more of the other. Giving you the same visual mix of the colours but more control on how they work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-04-04T09:47:03.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10188" CreationDate="2021-04-04T13:18:12.873" Score="4" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading Leonie Morgan's '100 Colourful ripple stitches'. Some of the patterns are an unusual shape, and have no explanation of how to expand upon the pattern. One pattern repeat is given as, for example, 22cm (8.75inch) x 22cm (8.75inch), but how do I expand this into a much bigger afghan or blanket? See photo of the Arcade pattern in the book. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73RAT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73RAT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Arcade pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10776" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T15:08:07.773" Title="How to expand one pattern repeat" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10134" CreationDate="2021-04-05T07:47:31.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual way to combine these 'squares' is to make many and stitch them together into a blanket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your irregular 'square' you may find they do not fit together well or at all in the usual pattern.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can try out how the pieces fit together by cutting out a series of paper versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select your pattern, make at least 10 realisticly shaped paper (or real) pieces and play around with them. Try using them at other angles as well. It may work to turn part of the pieces 45 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And do not forget that if you crochet them together you can make shorter or longer stitches, bridging bigger openings if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is the option of combining 'squares' or different models. The one you show have points sticking out in the middle of the sides, there might be corresponding pieces which are having 'cut out' bits that would match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some blankets pieced together from crocheted pieces have bigger and smaller squares, it might be that there is a kind of matching piece in the book that is not obvious as the size is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in the end, it is well possible that the writer of the book did ignore the 'making the blanket' as they did not intend these pieces to be actually used. Which does not stop you to be creative and still use them, but you will have to make your own matching pieces or filling connection patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you see a pattern in the expanding 'squares' you could keep expanding the single pattern till big enough to become a blanket by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T07:47:31.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8794" CreationDate="2021-04-05T08:15:04.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I googled 'fork made pompom' and now understand better what you are asking about. This is the random &lt;a href=&quot;https://doodleandstitch.com/craft-ideas-for-adults/how-to-make-a-fork-pom-pom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;site I used,&lt;/a&gt; (as I prefer still pictures over videos.) I have no connection to this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four options for mistakes I see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enough windings for the size of your yarn compared to your fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not pulled together enough when tying the middle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too many wraps of the tying yarn compared to the size of the pompom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not cut right when the sides are cut open.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions I found mentioned '50' times wound around the tines of the fork. No adjustments to the size of the yarn or the fork. If you use a bigger fork and thinner yarn, you may end up with a 'thin' pompom, which will not fill out to a full ball. You can experiment with more winding before you cut and tie off the pompom.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So the improvement solution is to add more windings to the fork before tying off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you tie the yarn together in the middle, you have to pull very hard, getting all the air out of all the strands of yarn and from between them. It is not easy to get that right the first time you try, and when you do not tie tight enough the resulting pompom will not form right. It will also be easy to pull yarns out of the ball, likely resulting with completely destroying the pompom in a few yarns picked out. When tied tight enough you can improve almost every pompom into a good ball, by cutting it short enough.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The improvement solution here is to tie tighter than you have done before. Going to the level where you are afraid of breaking your yarn. Or even by replacing your pompom yarn with a stronger kind of yarn which you can pull on more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even while you have to tie tight and strong, you should not have a wide strip of yarn around your pompom before you cut it.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Switching to a stronger yarn may help you to use less wide strips of yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting your pompom into a nice ball is important but if it starts with a good filled tightly tied center, you can easily see how to improve the final shape.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When just cut open at the sides you will likely have tufts sticking out which might look like 'divided in the middle' but this is the least likely reason.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But if you made a mistake here, cutting into a smaller ball should result in a better pompom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can improve the results of pompoms by brushing out the yarns but when properly made, you should not need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can not get your fork pompoms to work, there are several other methods, like simple card rings which you can make yourself and plastic rings where you have two halves which you combine into a ring later and likely some more. With all of those you have more options for sizes and often more control on the quality of the pompom. (And you will likely have less to cut off when you make it into a nice ball.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2021-04-05T08:22:37.990" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T08:22:37.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10120" CreationDate="2021-04-05T14:38:03.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I read in your question, since both sides are the same fabric, “cut both pieces the same and have the seam at the fold”. It might be easier and will look solid once pressed. Tip: prewash the fabric it can shrink. And it will be easy to wash in the future.&#xA;Also, Folding the fabric in half makes sewing easier (like making a pillowcase) or sewing selvage to selvage, that makes it even easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZchUC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pillow case with right sides together&quot; /&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use clips to hang them, construct them as if they were a pillow case. Make the bottom hem, press, Pin the fabrics right sides together, sew up the sides, then the top. turn it inside out, press.&#xA;Have fun!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6VQ7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;close up curtain clips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T14:38:03.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10145" CreationDate="2021-04-05T21:07:50.850" Score="1" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left my shoes in my backyard, then somebody let the dog out and part of the shoe died (sad story). Now my parents are making me fix the shoe, is there any &amp;quot;replacement for the foxing?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4G5jr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4G5jr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPCRo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPCRo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUM0t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUM0t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-06T21:09:48.527" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T04:08:55.467" Title="How can I fix the &quot;foxing&quot; of a shoe?" Tags="|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2021-04-06T17:09:38.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-06T00:43:55.850" Score="2" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine an open topped rectangle box: it has a bottom and four walls. An interior box fits or nests inside that, and, when seated, is flush with the top.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I want to find a latch/device so that I can push down on the top to disengage it and allow the nested box to rise up and reveal a compartment. Pushing it back down will of course relatch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10784" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-08T19:38:29.250" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T19:38:29.250" Title="Push-to-open lid for box using a special latch?" Tags="|woodworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10139" CreationDate="2021-04-06T05:35:00.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most realistic fix is to buy a new pair of shoes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; fix this somehow, be aware from the very first second that it will never look new or professional again and will probably break again very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you need to cut away all the losee strands and pieces. The heel could probably be repaired with construction silicone (preferably white). I suggest applying several thin layers and rebuilding and sculpting the heel that way. You can shape the fresh silicone with your fingers if you dip them into a glass of water with lots of dish washing liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper edge is pretty much a lost course. You could try hiding the damage by sewing on a new bias tape, but since some material is chewed away, it will always look bumpy. I would be &lt;strong&gt;very careful&lt;/strong&gt; when sewing through so many layers. The needle bight break. Maybe glueing the bias tape on is the better solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, whether you try to fix them or not, you'll probably end up replacing them very soon anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T04:08:55.467" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T04:08:55.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10140" CreationDate="2021-04-06T09:31:49.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first response that popped into my alleged mind was a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07DNJNDGV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;push-to-open latch&lt;/a&gt;. The link points to a Home Depot product, but there are many sources. Consider the concept of the lowly retractable ball-point pen. One push extends, the next, retracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3tnq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3tnq.png&quot; alt=&quot;push to open latch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;image courtesy of linked site&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image shows a magnetic attractor to mate with a metal plate on the moving part. If your project has sufficient depth, a single latch could be placed in the center of the inner box or be integrated into the moving portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other designs of push-to-open latches and some may have a lower profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T09:31:49.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10129" CreationDate="2021-04-06T12:37:41.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the paper and pressure you apply to your pencil, when you use graphite over charcoal, you will just scratch away most of the charcoal powder. Fixating the charcoal first won't help much, since the charcoal particles are much larger, and this process will just mess up the drawing more.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;On the other hand, using charcoal over graphite won't work well either, since the charcoal might not get a sufficient grip on the graphite wherever it has been applied heavily: using pencils applies pressure that flattens the paper, while the remaining texture will be filled up with graphite - the glossier the pencil marks, the harder it will be to apply charcoal over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can combine both techniques, but will have to &lt;strong&gt;do some planning in advance so the two won't mix as much&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Instead of using regular pencils, you can use grey or coloured pencils&lt;/strong&gt;, which will have a much more matte effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're using pencils because of the reversibility, and using mediums is out of the question, the only real option you have is to &lt;strong&gt;only draw very lightly, preferably with softer pencils&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. 9B).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T12:37:41.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6237" CreationDate="2021-04-06T13:03:14.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though there may be no definite answer other than your own experimentation, consider the pigment composition. Check a tube of oil paint and note how many different pigments are included; as a coarse rule of thumbs, the lesser the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also light fasting (how fast the paint will fade over time) plays an important role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10789" LastEditorUserId="10789" LastEditDate="2021-04-07T05:30:09.350" LastActivityDate="2021-04-07T05:30:09.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10151" CreationDate="2021-04-08T10:37:55.263" Score="5" ViewCount="621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to buy paper on the internet, and the only difference I see between cut edge and deckle(d) edge paper is the price: deckle edge paper is a little more expensive than cut edge paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between cut edge and deckle edge paper, and what are they used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please answer with simple wording, since English is not my first language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10816" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-04-08T13:21:46.220" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T13:21:46.220" Title="Difference between cut edge and deckle edge paper" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10150" CreationDate="2021-04-08T12:24:29.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, I will give a simple overview of the papermaking process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper is made out of the fibres, mostly of wood or cloth.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These fibres are beaten to a pulp, and put in a bath with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the deckle is the (wooden) frame that is used to control the size of the paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8Jp7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8Jp7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Mold and deckle (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/making-paper-zmaz93djzraw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This deckle lies on top of the mold, and these are used to scoop pulp out of the bath.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As the water drains through the mesh (the netting on the top of the mold), the pulp will stay inside the frame of the deckle, and the fibres in the pulp will settle.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;They will not form a straight edge, but &lt;strong&gt;a wavy and irregular, or 'feathered' edge: this is called the 'deckle edge'.&lt;/strong&gt; They can be seen as the original or natural edge.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Often, however, paper sheets are cut to remove these deckle edges, and these are called 'cut edges'.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the two is almost purely aesthetic: &lt;strong&gt;the deckle edge gives a more authentic or original look to paper&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But &lt;strong&gt;it also is often a sign that a paper was handmade&lt;/strong&gt;: higher quality papers used for the arts often have deckle edges to separate them from cheaper machine-made paper (since the machines used for paper-making produce paper on rolls, so no deckles are used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T12:24:29.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-09T04:08:31.497" Score="3" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on making a cat wheel out of 48&amp;quot;-60&amp;quot; Sonotube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would one go about making a rigid paper-like material similar to cardboard more durable, i.e. resistant to spills, dents, and dings? There are many products on the market, e.g. polycrylic, flex seal, truck bed liner, various paints, etc... that I'm facing some analysis paralysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10821" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T18:15:12.993" Title="Best material to make cardboard more durable" Tags="|material-selection|cardboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-09T16:20:27.403" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;This post about sewing tubes without a presser foot or feed dogs suggests using a specialized machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the second machine in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/5908/6388&quot;&gt;Elmy's answer here&lt;/a&gt; called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SZAt.jpg&quot; height=&quot;300&quot; /&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2113" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-09T16:51:52.943" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T19:48:10.367" Title="What is this long free arm machine called?" Tags="|sewing-machine|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10152" CreationDate="2021-04-09T16:30:43.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% sure what you mean by a &amp;quot;cat wheel&amp;quot;, but if you're talking about a wheel in which your cats will run (like those put in hamster cages), one thing I'd try is lining it with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sisal#Uses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sisal twine&lt;/a&gt; run back and forth in rows around the inside of the tube and glued down to the surface using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_glue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wood glue&lt;/a&gt; like Elmer's or Gorilla Glue. That's how my (former) wife constructed a cat tree, only the sisal was wrapped around the posts; it served as a durable (and replaceable, with effort) scratching-post surface for the kitties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: this will give the wheel &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; of weight, which means it will have a lot of energy once it gets going, and the cats will have to hop off if they want to stop; their weight probably won't be enough to stop it on the upswing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8340" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T16:30:43.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10152" CreationDate="2021-04-09T17:53:11.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your objective, spill-resistant and ding resistant, you're dealing with two parameters that could be combined. As noted in Bill Horvath's answer, the weight will be a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cardboard for concrete forms is pretty durable and somewhat moisture resistant &amp;quot;out of the box&amp;quot;, and could take mild abuse without modification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Virtually any paint will protect the material from moisture once cured. The biggest enemy of cardboard is water and other liquids. Paint will be lightweight, the lightest option, and likely the least expensive route. Even rattle-can paint can accomplish water protection and allow for artistic expression as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One step up from paint, providing protection and a minimal amount of ding suppression, would be a coating of water-resistant glue. I used &amp;quot;water-resistant&amp;quot;, but some products explicitly state waterproof. One such product is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue&lt;/a&gt;, which uses those terms on the website. One would brush on several coats, allowing the previous coat to become tacky to avoid drips, runs, and spatters. Once fully cured, the glue becomes a force-distribution surface, spreading out any impacts. If the glue becomes damaged, it's an easy repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other surface finishes which provide for water-repelling features would work, of course. Some finishes may not work for impact protection, while others (epoxy-based products) may be overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this level, one will most certainly be adding weight. It's not absurd (but pretty close) to consider that a single layer of fiberglass with polyester resin could make a substantially strong cat hoop, but the weight comes into play again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyester resin or epoxy resin of a thin consistency will provide waterproofing and not all that much weight while giving the durability you require. Additionally, using such a coating on the outside will improve the durability of the bearing contact areas. If applied on the inside surface, adding grit prior to curing gives the felines more confidence and less cartoon-cat skittering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T18:15:12.993" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T18:15:12.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10153" CreationDate="2021-04-09T19:48:10.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Feed-off-the-arm sewing machines – A feed off the arm sewing machine’s design is unusual in that its arm bridges a u-shaped bed. Such machines are ideal for seaming the inseams of pants and jeans as well as the sides, sleeves, and shoulders of shirts.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.abcsewingmachine.com/blogs/features/62525253-the-different-types-of-industrial-sewing-machines-body-design&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.abcsewingmachine.com/blogs/features/62525253-the-different-types-of-industrial-sewing-machines-body-design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2113" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T19:48:10.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10165" CreationDate="2021-04-09T20:38:02.567" Score="3" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Before Pandemic times, my family would often host Easter-egg dyeing parties, where we provide the dyes and tools and guests provide eggs. We emphasize bringing whole raw eggs, but there are always a few know-it-alls who bring either hard-boiled eggs or already-blown egg shells. With the cooked eggs, we thank them kindly and put the eggs in the fridge for later eating, explaining (again) that the dyes are not food-safe, but we've always had trouble with the blown eggs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mI6eG.jpg&quot; width=&quot;200&quot; title=&quot;last year's crop&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of people who make amazing dyed eggs insist that they only work with blown eggs, but they never explain HOW THE HECK. I mean, basic physics, right? A blown eggshell will just float on top of the dye, leading to, uh... &lt;em&gt;interesting&lt;/em&gt; patterns, but not a nice even color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try to push an egg shell into the dye, you either end up with a broken shell, or the dye seeps into the inside, and then you end up with dye dripping all over everything. You can try to blow out the dye, same as the innards got blown out in the first place, but that's likely to still result in dye dripping all over creation, plus now your dye is contaminated with whatever was inside the egg before (raw egg, detergent, other dyes). Also, good luck with trying to turn a blue egg green by giving it a quick dunk in the yellow, and other such tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard tales of plugging the hole (or holes, depending on the blowing method) with wax, but 1. that has never worked for me - the wax always falls out at the most inopportune moment, and 2. that doesn't solve the basic physics problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, people still insist that they do this all the time. HOW?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T12:05:41.170" LastActivityDate="2022-09-17T02:10:54.193" Title="How can you dye blown eggs?" Tags="|dyeing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10157" CreationDate="2021-04-09T20:52:00.073" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one answer that popped up from my search and it meets my understanding of the process as well. There may be other similar methods and almost certainly other names for it, but the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Pysanky-Ukrainian-Egg-Dying/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructable&lt;/a&gt; provides relatively detailed instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pufns.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pufns.png&quot; alt=&quot;coloring eggs with wax method&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoted verbatim from the linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pysanky is a traditional craft in Ukraine and Poland. The method is&#xA;similar to batik - patterns are drawn on the egg with wax, which then&#xA;protects the covered areas from the dye that is applied. By repeating&#xA;this process with different colors of dye, a multi-colored pattern is&#xA;built up. Finally, the wax is removed to reveal the colors that were&#xA;covered up at each stage. A layer of polyurethane can be added over&#xA;the finished egg to protect the dyed design and to give a gloss&#xA;finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, the eggs were left whole. They would eventually dry out&#xA;and become light. Some of my eggs are left whole, in keeping with&#xA;tradition. Some of my eggs are blown to allow them to be hung as&#xA;ornaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various aspects of the process are provided in the Instructable. Batik is &amp;quot;relatively common&amp;quot; as a craft and research on that topic may provide additional insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-04-09T20:52:00.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-10T08:11:34.063" Score="1" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to cast a silicone part using a mold I've 3'd printed. I've built a roto caster to rotate the mold so that it is hollow. I'm using a 2 part Ecoflex silicone. Unfortunately the silicone does not smoothly coat the inside of the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering thinning the silicone so that it covers the inside of the mold more evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best substance to use to thin the silicone, mineral spirits, silicone oil?&#xA;Is there anything I should be aware of when attempting this (I'm new to silicone casting). Will this lengthen cure time and if so is there a way of knowing how much it will lengthen cure time, for some unit of mineral spirit (or other thinning agent)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10832" LastEditorUserId="10832" LastEditDate="2021-04-10T08:25:58.973" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T09:31:07.240" Title="How best to thin Silicone for Roto Casting" Tags="|casting|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10159" CreationDate="2021-04-10T09:31:07.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various common solvents, like mineral spirits, that will thin silicone.  However, the solvent becomes part of the volume.  Once the silicone cures, the solvent will leach out and evaporate, and the casting will shrink by the volume of solvent added.  This is sometimes done on purpose to make a finished item that's smaller than the mold.  However, the shrinkage can take a long time to complete (days to weeks depending on size), so the results are hard to control if you need a precise finished size.  It can also distort the shape because the evaporation isn't uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was actually going to try silicone oil but haven't done it yet.  The oil will become part of the volume.  It won't evaporate, but it might leach out over time, producing shrinkage plus an oily mess.  A small amount is supposed to make the silicone softer (which was what I was aiming for), so be aware that it will change the characteristics of the silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinning it won't necessarily solve the problem of getting an even coating.  That might be due to waiting too long before getting the mold surface covered, and/or the silicone not sticking to the mold surface (either because it doesn't wet the mold material, or mold release is interfering).  Silicone peels off a lot of materials without mold release, so you might want to experiment with some scrap material to see if you can skip mold release.  If the problem is that it isn't wetting the mold (doesn't stay put after you coat the surface), thinning it with a solvent or oil may make the problem worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is just a matter of consistency of the liquid silicone, your best bet may be to use silicone that is a better consistency for your purpose.  It comes in different viscosities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T09:31:07.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10157" CreationDate="2021-04-10T16:01:53.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago, I got some goose eggshells from a friend. The best solution I could come up with for dyeing them was to fill the shell with water and then (try to) plug the hole with wax. It made for a rather unsightly blob around the hole, and as you said, the plug could lose cohesion at odd moments, sometimes with rather, um, disastrous results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For an egg blown the old-fashioned way with two holes, I guess you'd have to plug one hole, fill it, plug the other hole, and then deal with the double failure points.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been blithely saying &amp;quot;plug the hole with wax&amp;quot;, but my experience is that it's far from that easy. I wonder if there's a technique to it that we're missing. (Duct tape? Medical tape? Candle wax instead of beeswax? Haven't tried any of these.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T16:01:53.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10157" CreationDate="2021-04-10T21:17:31.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caveat: I have not actually tried this, but it ought to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a DIY gelatin/glycerin material that is inexpensive and easy to make, and reusable.  It turns into a watery liquid when heated and gels into a rubbery material at room temperature.  Variations of it are used for making molds for casting, making gelatin plates, creating make-up prosthetics, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a search on &amp;quot;gelatin glycerin&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;diy gelatin mold&amp;quot;, you'll find lots of recipes that vary a little for different purposes.  Here's a tutorial to get you started: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ultimatepapermache.com/gelatin-and-glycerine-mold-recipe1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gelatin and Glycerine Mold-Making Recipe, Cheap and Reusable – Ultimate Paper Mache&lt;/a&gt;.  The primary ingredients are gelatin powder, glycerin, and water.  Recipes vary as to the amount of water and sometimes add other ingredients to fine tune the material's characteristics for a particular purpose.  A simple recipe like in the above link should work fine for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I would use it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make up a batch in advance.  It keeps for several weeks at room temperature or longer in the refrigerator.  Some people even pour it into ice cube trays and freeze the cubes so they can take whatever amount they need for a particular project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warm it in a microwave to liquefy it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If two holes were used to empty the shells, temporarily plug one of them (the plug can be removed for painting after the filler hardens).  Use a syringe to fill the shell with the material.  Use an old egg carton as a tray to keep the eggs upright.  I would insert something like a toothpick part way into the hole.  When the material solidifies, this will provide a handle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick the tray into the refrigerator to speed up cooling so the project can get underway sooner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This should make the egg shells strong and easy to handle for painting.  The toothpick can be pushed into some Styrofoam to let the paint dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the paint is dry, you can leave the material inside.  The toothpick can be pulled out or used to mount the egg on a base.  Or, stick the eggs back in the tray, microwave them to remelt the filler, and empty the shells (capture the filler to reuse it).  A thin film of the material remaining inside the shell will give it a little more strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T21:17:31.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10166" CreationDate="2021-04-11T05:14:28.930" Score="4" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a vest from a jacket by removing the sleeves. Now I see that the vest arm holes are too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two ideas how to make the arm hole smaller I would like to know the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ideas so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;make several v-shaped cuts all around the arm hole and take little tucks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;take out the upper and lower seams and take in more material and re-seam&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10845" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T09:46:39.640" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T07:12:27.253" Title="What is the best way to decrease the circumference of a vest arm hole?" Tags="|sewing|alterations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10157" CreationDate="2021-04-11T12:01:40.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if skin glue mixed with chalk would be a proper paintable, invisible, and reversible way to plug the holes, but then thought of something even more practical, like tiny plugs made of very soft rubber or plastic, and, lo and behold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lyjBW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lyjBW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ukrainianeggcessories.com/collections/eggcessories&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Egg plugs&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can find many sellers searching for &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;pysanky egg plugs&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, there are a few downsides to this method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugs can leak if the hole is irregular, and twisting a plug in and out of the hole each time you dye (as is recommended) risks cracking the shell around the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pysanky.info/Dyeing/Emptied_Eggs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;. Note that this is mentioned in the context of plugging a refilled egg.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the success of this method will depend on how (well) the holes in the egg were made - irregularities induce both the leaking and cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making these yourself might even be an option: cutting little wedges out of candles might do the trick, and these could even be heated shortly for an improved fit. I haven't tried this, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The page I quoted from actually suggests another, even easier and more practical method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[They] had &lt;strong&gt;solved the problem of floating eggs by weighing them down with disposable plastic cups partially filled with water&lt;/strong&gt;. [..] They worked like a charm. It was a true eureka moment for me.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The plastic cups (drinking glasses) should be narrower than the opening of your dye jar, and tall enough that they will protrude from the top of the jar (for easy placement and removal) or at least be even with the top of your jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pysanky.info/Dyeing/Emptied_Eggs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The water in the cup pushes the hollow egg down, while the water in the jar pushes it back up, effectively trapping the egg and enveloping it in the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T12:01:40.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10164" CreationDate="2021-04-11T19:40:29.170" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting into the existing armhole will most likely end badly, because you need a lot more fabric to secure those darts than is available at the arm hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make the hole smaller, you have to sew more material to it. I hope you didn't throw the sleeves away yet, because that is the perfect material for your endeavor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't post a picture or write any details, so I can only guess &lt;em&gt;where exactly&lt;/em&gt; you need to add material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have enough fabric at the arm hole, but not enough to seam it properly, try cutting bias tape from the sleeves and hem the west with that. Since the arm hole is a circle, the tape &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be cut on the bias or it will wrinkle and be a pain to sew on. Keep in mind that the tape you cut must be 4 times as wide as the hem should be in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the west fits well enough at the soulders but has a gaping hole below the arm, it's going to be more complicated. First I would try the bias tape method, but with wider tape below the arm that protrudes from the actual seam (basically extending the fabric there) and narrower tape at the top of the shoulder that doesn't protrude at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try opening the shoulder seams and sewing them a little tighter towards the side, but that will change the fit of the whole garment. You should first pin the shoulders and try the vest on to see if it still fits or if the shoulders become too sloped or the collar stands up weirdly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the seams are almost invisible in the fabric, you can try inserting a halfmoon shaped piece below the arm. But in most fabrics the seams are too obvious for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing else works, buy or knit cuffs in a color that matches the vest (or adds a nice contrast). Add cuffs around the arm hole, at the bottom of the vest and - if it fits and you like the look of it - also at the collar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOk8S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOk8S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="10845" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T07:12:27.253" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T07:12:27.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-12T05:30:23.080" Score="3" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;There’s this artist who I absolutely love, and they etch leather using a tool I am not familiar with. I want to get into this style of art and was wondering if you had any ideas! There is a pic attached, taken as a screenshot from a video so a bit blurry, but any clues as to what the tool is would be amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQ6SK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQ6SK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10859" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T07:29:53.200" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T08:39:22.187" Title="Tools for etching leather?" Tags="|leather|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10167" CreationDate="2021-04-12T08:05:26.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the appearance of the tool (the thick shaft and the guard around it), the person in the video is drawing on the leather using heat, rather than 'cold' etching, carving, or engraving the leather. This is known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrography&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pyrography&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool used here is called a '&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;solid-point burner&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;'.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This tool is attached to a power source, often (and preferably) has temperature controls, and produces heat leading to a tip that can often be changed for improved surface control (see upper tool in image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common alternative, which is quicker to work with and allows for more control over temperatures and surface contact, is the '&lt;em&gt;wire-nib burner&lt;/em&gt;' (see lower tool in image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a9uec.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a9uec.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://toolmonger.com/2013/01/17/the-art-of-pyrography/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://truart.co/product/truart-dual-pen-professional-woodburning-detailer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T08:39:22.187" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T08:39:22.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10172" CreationDate="2021-04-12T17:34:48.787" Score="5" ViewCount="2429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about art history or different drawing traditions, but I often see this style of line art (done in pen and ink I think?) which uses many thin lines for shading. Some examples of what I'm talking about include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOWgH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOWgH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imKP9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imKP9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;J. J. Grandeville, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_Ignace_Isidore_G%C3%A9rard_Grandville#/media/File:Grandville_leLoup_Et_Le_Chien.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;John Tenniel, &lt;a href=&quot;https://medium.com/alice-s-adventures-in-wonderland/sir-john-tenniel-s-classic-illustrations-of-alice-in-wonderland-2c3bbdca3a77&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74Lev.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74Lev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dcdOG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dcdOG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;A hand, &lt;a href=&quot;https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/481181541439349656/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Some animals, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.123rf.com/photo_77007446_animals-around-the-world-collection-of-an-hand-drawn-illustrations-freehand-sketches-line-art-drawin.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never know how to describe this style of drawing and search for more examples. I'm also not sure if there's a term for this style of art, or if I'm grouping together unrelated art styles, but any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10863" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-14T13:33:40.303" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T13:33:40.303" Title="What's the name for the pen and ink drawing style seen in J. J. Grandville's art?" Tags="|technique-identification|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10174" CreationDate="2021-04-12T22:55:40.157" Score="5" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an imaginary scenario, I paint with acrylics, let's say on canvas board or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use any fancy techniques, like impasto. Just the &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; amount of paint and commonly used acrylic mediums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know, whether I should be concerned about what these materials do when they get into the drain pipes (in the kitchen sink, or in the bathroom), when I wash out my brushes, and maybe some jars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know that as soon as acrylic painting materials get wet and then get a chance to dry, they end up forming a solid substance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As far as I know / can imagine, drain pipes are not always soaked 100% in water, rather they have patches that get non-submerged from time to time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that acrylics materials could form dried-on layers within the drain pipes? That they could build up with time, decreasing the cross-section available for water flow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a valid concern? If yes, what could I do to mitigate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10433" LastEditorUserId="10433" LastEditDate="2021-04-13T13:18:18.907" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T22:25:02.947" Title="Acrylics in the drain?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10169" CreationDate="2021-04-13T05:07:13.530" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kind of shading with many thin lines is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hatching&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hatching&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D76Qw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D76Qw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shoorayner.com/how-to-shade-drawings-with-cross-hatching/crosshatch2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very common in ink or pen drawings and printing techniques like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etching&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;etching&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodblock_printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodblock printing&lt;/a&gt;. A sub-category of prints with especially fine details is the &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_master_print&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;old master print&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vangoghgenova.it/this-hatching-exercise-will-make-your-drawings-better.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; demonstrates a number of different hatching techniques and how they influence our perception of the shapes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-04-13T05:07:13.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10170" CreationDate="2021-04-13T05:23:13.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that concern is very valid, and it has always been a problem in any school art room I've ever been to (even though we used only water paints in school).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;should never&lt;/strong&gt; wash big amounts of paint down the drain. The safer method is to simply let it dry and dispose of the remains in the household waste. Bigger amounts should be left to dry in a disposable container or plastic bag. Smaller amounts can be transferred to some old newspaper, paper towels, or similar disposable surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brushes and mixing palettes should be wiped clean with a paper towel and then rinsed in fresh water. After you finished rinsing, continue letting the water flow for another minute to wash all the residue down your pipes. This is also useful for rinsing the pipes of old soap or fat residues (for example, after washing very oily dishes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution I personally use: My mixing palette is a common glazed saucer. I let the paint that I no longer need dry on the saucer and then soak the whole saucer in water the next day. The acrylic paint won't dissolve in the water, but it will release from the glazed surface, and I can easily peel the paint remains from the saucer and dispose of them in the waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="10433" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T22:25:02.947" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T22:25:02.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10170" CreationDate="2021-04-13T15:54:12.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In one school I went to, we had an extra part in the drain from the sink (kitchen sink style.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the sink the water would get into a container, the top and the bottom of the container had little walls making separate compartments and only the middle of the container had the exit to the main drainage pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heavy and very light parts of the waste 'water' would stay in the container, had to be cleaned out once in a while (I think it was once a year, but I am not sure anymore, it was quite a while ago). The light bits which would evaporate would do so and were given an escape route (likely to the outside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This contraption was 'homemade' in the school, but we were told there were also commercial versions on the market. I would not know what to type into the search bar though, try a few if you do enough painting (and clay work) to make it needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was in the early 1980s, not sure if the system would still be acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a single person who paints some (but not a lot), I would go with the tips from the answer by Elmy, let the paint dry on a piece of paper, or use waste plastic containers to hold the rest of the paint after you are done with it. When you have used water to clean your brushes, keep the water in a pot or cup and let it evaporate naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T15:03:31.603" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T15:03:31.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3249" CreationDate="2021-04-14T19:28:47.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will go ahead and not provide a final answer to your question; I just take it ahead a bit, so that others will have a clearer image of what you are asking, and maybe then they can help out with the final answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Simplified answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your system can be modelled with a series of small cubes (like sugar cubes, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dice&lt;/a&gt;) aligned neatly in a row, glued to the center-line of the curved surface of a toilet paper roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when aligned with each other, each of the cubes will stand at a different angle (their bases aligning tangential to the curve of the roll). Thus, they will not share the same linear perspective system among each other. If you want to make a drawing of this scene, you will need to establish separate, dedicated perspective systems (with corresponding &amp;quot;horizons&amp;quot; and vanishing points) for each small cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original, elaborate answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the first sentence in your question, I imagine you could be a fantasy or sci-fi artist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to paint a picture that depicts a series of stout pillars, or even &amp;quot;skyscrapers&amp;quot;, that are 100km tall, and are spaced 200km apart (at their base) from each other. On a clear day (or if you rise above the Stratosphere (where the hazy part of our atmosphere lives)) you will get to see several of them as they file their way beyond &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; horizon, and gradually disappear behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Just to emphasize: 100km altitude is also the &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%A1rm%C3%A1n_line&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kármán line&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, the defined altitude where space &amp;quot;officially&amp;quot; starts. These imaginary skyscrapers are so tall.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need to talk about two kinds of horizons here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; horizon, in other words, where it appears to be, from your vantage point: the very line where the surface of the Earth and the sky meets. (Officially it's called the &lt;strong&gt;apparent / true horizon&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Zenith-Nadir-Horizon.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see illustration&lt;/a&gt;).)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other kind of horizon is a &amp;quot;theoretical&amp;quot;, or relative one. It's a bit like the yellow line that you drew in your picture. It's not where you see the horizon. It's where a selected object seems to &lt;em&gt;project&lt;/em&gt; its &amp;quot;own horizon&amp;quot;. It's &amp;quot;where it should be&amp;quot;, if the surface would go on flatly into an infinite distance. (I think this is labelled as &lt;strong&gt;astronomical horizon&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Zenith-Nadir-Horizon.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this illustration&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's time to address how you tried to use two neighboring objects to find a horizon. On the scale of our mega-towers example, you can't rely on a system where some towers are grouped together. At this scale, Earth's curvature is significant enough to make each tower stand at a different (unique) angle on the curving surface: the deviation between each of them is so significant, that we need to maintain an own dedicated perspective system for each of the towers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Having to assign dedicated perspective systems to several objects in a single image can happen as easily as drawing an office interior, with a desk and a chair, neither of which latter ones are aligned parallel to the walls, nor with each other. Now the office room, the chair, and the desk have their own perspective systems, three in total, each of which you have to depict correctly, if you want a good drawing.) (But, unlike with our mega towers example, in this office interior, the different perspective systems still share the same horizon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can position yourself such way that you can match your &amp;quot;personal horizon&amp;quot; with one of the towers'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to take a helicopter, or an airplane, or a space elevator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the website called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ringbell.co.uk/info/hdist.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Distance to the Horizon Calculator&lt;/a&gt;, we can see that if you rise 2km above the Earth's surface, then a tower 160km away from you will stand right on your perceived horizon, while in its own dedicated perspective system, its horizon (yellow line) will overlap with your perceived one. And these overlapping horizons will cross the building at its ground floor; you will still get a frog's perspective if you look upwards to the upper floors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could now choose to ascend to half the height of the tower, to an altitude of 50km (while keeping your 160km distance). Then the tower's dedicated theoretical horizon would &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot; it in half, in its middle. But now, the tower's dedicated horizon and the Earth's horizon would not overlap any more. Earth's horizon would get a bit below, as it rolls away, downwards (due to the curvature). Just like the difference in your image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this system, each tower's own horizon (yellow line) ends up in a different &amp;quot;height&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &amp;quot;yellow line&amp;quot; of towers that are closer to you as the above calculated &amp;quot;(Earth's) horizon distance&amp;quot;, are above your perceived horizon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &amp;quot;yellow line&amp;quot; of a tower that stands exactly at the horizon distance from you, falls at the same height with your perceived horizon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And the &amp;quot;yellow line&amp;quot; of towers that stand farther away from you than the horizon distance, will end up below your perceived horizon. (You will see these far away towers (but not their bases, as they are already covered by the perceived horizon) from &lt;em&gt;below&lt;/em&gt; a frog's perspective.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth pointing out that anybody who is not considering the Earth's curvature, will use the closest tower's dedicated horizon as reference where they set the perceived one, and they will go ahead and match every other object's horizon with this same reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10433" LastEditorUserId="10433" LastEditDate="2021-04-15T15:16:36.853" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T15:16:36.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-15T18:46:00.297" Score="6" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of laser-cut clear acrylic pieces and matching transparencies (with designs printed on them). I want to glue the transparencies atop the acrylic pieces, but I am unsure which glue is suitable for this job. I (naively) used superglue at first, but soon learned that it leaves foggy residue and splotchy remnants of the glue. What type of glue should I use to bond the acrylic and transparencies together that will dry clear and leave little to no residue? If possible, I would prefer an affordable solution that dries quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10880" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-13T18:40:39.450" LastActivityDate="2022-02-13T18:40:39.450" Title="What glue should I use with acrylic and transparencies?" Tags="|adhesives|acrylic-glass|transparency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10176" CreationDate="2021-04-15T20:53:57.967" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are specific &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0149IG548&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glues&lt;/a&gt; manufactured for gluing clear and colored acrylic. It is thinner than water and will spread via capillary action when used appropriately. Consider when locating and purchasing such an adhesive to also purchase the needle-tipped dispensers often offered during the transaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u05z0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u05z0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;acrylic cement and applicator&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;image courtesy of linked Amazon source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that your parts are solidly joined and carefully tip the applicator while the end of the applicator is in contact with the joint. You'll be able to see the glue spread throughout the length of the joined pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the very fast curing time, any excessive quantity that spreads to a surface will damage the surface if removal is attempted. Consider to practice on scrap or test joints to get a feel for the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to layer the acrylic, the same process applies, as the glue will wick into the entire surface contact points/area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying time can often be measured in single-digit seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T20:53:57.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7566" CreationDate="2021-04-15T21:29:27.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order for the &amp;quot;tines&amp;quot; on your comb to ring brightly, you must begin with spring steel. You may use a flat piece of steel and cut the teeth into it or use a long length of quality steel bar such as a metal yard rake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a length of sewer cleaning flat bar--cheap and very good steel. I simply cut it into 15 pieces about 3 1/2&amp;quot; long. You must secure these onto or between heavy steel blocks. Cut at an angle to make each tooth a little shorter than the last and bring them each to a point for plucking. Using a tune meter ($10.00 at any guitar store), pluck the shortest tooth and grind or sand off a little of its surface on the back until it is the correct note. Follow in order until each tooth is in tune. Remember: making each tooth either thinner or shorter raises the pitch of that tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't let anyone tell you this will not work! I have built four machines so far with great results. Go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10881" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-04-16T13:24:11.033" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T13:24:11.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-16T21:19:23.770" Score="3" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was lead here to this site &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/6124/how-to-dye-or-tint-epoxy-resin-to-produce-translucent-colors&quot;&gt;FROM THIS POST&lt;/a&gt; on getting a transparent colored epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One question is if I am using an alcohol ink for a transparent colored pour, what happens if I overshoot the color i.e. too dark, and wish to lighten it e.g. dark red to light red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the obvious and pour in more clear resin, what could I possibly add to lighten the color and possibly not add to the volume of the mixed resin, or if it does, then something less costly than resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to do small transparent pours into CNC carved designs in wood and hoping to see the wood grain through the color. I guess an ounce more or less to fill what I am looking to do but I didn't want to mix say 2, 3, or more ounces if I make the color too dark first shot then possibly too light etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am completely aware to not have to worry about this is to add the ink very slowly and teeny tiny bits at a time but assuming I was just ever so close to the color I wanted and that next drop pushed it over, or the customer wants something a tad lighter is the scenario I am envisioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!! Dave&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10887" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T22:02:17.447" Title="Too Much Alcohol Ink, Overshooting the Color Too Dark" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-16T22:15:58.910" Score="5" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a favorite (cashmere/lambswool) sweater from a fast fashion store that I sort of let go to seed from wearing it all the time. It now has huge elbow holes that go further up my arm where it gets frayed (along with some holes in the sleeves.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to add patches to it. I cut squares from a pair of old cotton/spandex leggings and  I wanted to sew it on by hand with a needle and thread, but I've never done this before. I want to do it right and not screw up, but have minimal tools (just two squares of fabric and needle and thread, an ironing board, no pillow even :) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a tutorial or have any advice on patching large holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10888" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T14:17:31.310" Title="Hand Sewing Patch to Huge Elbow Holes in Sweater" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10180" CreationDate="2021-04-17T12:22:20.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I would do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the thread and whip stitch the holes so they do not fray any&#xA;further.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since it is knit textile, tighten and loosen to manipulate the hole&#xA;in a fun or fashionable shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the patches on the inside of the garment, temporarily secure&#xA;with safety pins, straight pins or basting stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an interesting embroidery stitch to secure the patch permanently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove pins or basting stitches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trim excess fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fun alternative is to appliqué over the holes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whip stitch the holes to prevent fraying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure patch on the inside with pins or basting stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut out an appliqué shape or shapes, secure to “right” side and&#xA;stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key words/ phrases to search for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whip stitch or blanket stitch - used to quickly sew an edge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;basting stitch - long &amp;amp; loose stitch to temporarily hold materials together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;appliqué - technique to apply cut fabric designs onto material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knit textile versus woven textile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: darning has been addressed in the Stack Exchange, but mostly for woven fabrics, not knits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-04-19T14:17:31.310" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T14:17:31.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-18T17:06:14.500" Score="3" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to create a perforated piezoelectric disc for use in creating a solid state aeroponic mister. The water droplets, and thereby the holes, can only range in size from 5-50 micron in order for the plants to efficiently absorb the nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attempted to puncture holes by hand using tiny needles in the past but since the discs are extremely fragile my attempts were never successful. I noticed this 0.03mm (aka 30 micron) drillbit set on Amazon and I was wondering if I were to use a drill press with this bit if I would be able to perforate the disc without it shattering? Has anyone else tried this or would you happen to have a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill bit set: &lt;a href=&quot;https://amzn.to/3tH9uDb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://amzn.to/3tH9uDb&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Commercially perforated disc: &lt;a href=&quot;https://amzn.to/3esbMQb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://amzn.to/3esbMQb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I can purchase commercially fabricated discs I want to have the ability to create a disc of any shape and size myself which is why I'm looking to pursue the DIY route. I know this is probably more technical than most questions posted here and I apologize for that. Since there isn't a community for material science or machining here this was the closest thing I was able to find. Any help would be deeply appreciated. Thank you :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10896" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T21:32:50.147" Title="How to Create a Perforated Piezoelectric Disc (aka atomizer)?" Tags="|material-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10183" CreationDate="2021-04-18T17:53:57.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has all the markings of an Engineering SE question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to a number of websites, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.americanpiezo.com/knowledge-center/piezo-theory/piezoelectricity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Piezo&lt;/a&gt; included, the commercially produced product is composed of various materials, but include a ceramic/crystalline component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A traditional piezoelectric ceramic is a mass of perovskite ceramic&#xA;crystals, each consisting of a small, tetravalent metal ion, usually&#xA;titanium or zirconium, in a lattice of larger, divalent metal ions,&#xA;usually lead or barium, and O2- ions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can expect the ceramic/crystalline component is what contributes to the brittle characteristic of the material. Traditional cutting tools are likely to create as much damage as the attempt to puncture created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A carefully controlled water jet may be able to create a hole, but the size is not likely to be as small as you desire. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://accuratewaterjet.com/piercing-with-waterjets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Accurate Water Jet&lt;/a&gt;, you can get holes in 3 mm material as small as 500 microns but the diameter is not going to be consistent. The process involves forcing high pressure water with abrasive directly at the surface, which results in spray back along with a sideways vector, abrading the upper portion of the hole. The size is outside of your requirements, which makes this an exercise in futility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abrasion applied by a rotating object may be a solution. I've read of glass being cut by copper tubing. The tubing is placed in a drill press, a dam of modeling clay constructed around the desired area and water with abrasive poured into the dam. Light pressure and repeated lifting allows fresh abrasive along with cooling. It's not fast, but broken glass is akin to broken ceramic piezo disks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the best DIY method you can try would be similar. Buy the tiny bits, but grind the tip flat. Build a dam, load it with jewelers rouge in water suspension and dab away. If you are using an ordinary drill press, consider that the run-out for such a machine may exceed the diameter of the bit. This will result in a larger hole and/or destruction of the bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to determine amount of pressure? Use my favorite method for tightening a screw: apply torque until it snaps, then back off a quarter of a turn. Seriously, too little force will get you farther than too much, for obvious reasons. You aren't trying to force the bit through the ceramic. You're trying to apply the rouge to the disk while it spins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High speed means higher heat, so a moderate rpm is indicated, along with the light pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to OP comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a CO2 laser and for some reason neglected to consider that as an option. I can create a hole in plywood approximately 0.110 mm, which is still larger than your requirement. I can create similar holes in glass which has properties similar to ceramic and vice versa. Returning from a test moments ago, I've discovered the laser will create coning in a manner similar to that expected of a water jet. The laser creates microscopic fracturing caused by the heat of the laser being absorbed by the glass. In a pane of ordinary window glass, the upper surface was approximately 1.50 mm in diameter when the laser reached the lower surface. The hole in the lower surface was 0.50 mm in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diode lasers, which have a lower cost than CO2 lasers will not impact glass due to the different frequency of the beam. The focused beam of a diode laser is rarely a circle or square shape and would not provide a suitable hole either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2021-04-18T21:32:50.147" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T21:32:50.147" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10179" CreationDate="2021-04-18T18:35:54.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best advice I can give you is to mix the ink with the hardener first, and then mix the tinted hardener with the epoxy. If you have epoxy that uses very little hardener (like &amp;quot;add 10 drops of hardener to 100 grams of epoxy&amp;quot;), then mix the ink with the epoxy before adding the hardener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That has several advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can take all the time you want for the first step. Since epoxy and hardener aren't in contact yet, the epoxy won't start curing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stirring always traps air bubbles. You can remove the bubbles from the tinted hardener before you mix it with the epoxy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The finished epoxy will have less color that what you mixed into the hardener.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you really fumbled and added way too much ink to the hardener, you can try storing some of the tinted hardener in a secure container for a future project. Add more colorless hardener to your mixing cup until you got the color right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one big disadvantage is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you mix the hardener with the epoxy, the color will change again. If it doesn't have enough color, you start adding ink again, with the risk of adding too much. But at least you'll have a feeling how much ink you'll need and if a drop might be too much and you want to use a toothpick to add the ink instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T18:35:54.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-18T19:24:14.133" Score="4" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a heat treatment furnace which is very similar to furnaces used to make jewelry, such as to melt gold, silver and other precious metal alloys for casting into jewelry. In fact, the manufacturer's operational video actually shows the operator putting a crucible into the furnace, which has a front loading door. This type of furnace is sometimes called a &amp;quot;muffle furnace&amp;quot;. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CbZ16m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CbZ16m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my problem is that the operating manual says not to open the furnace if the internal temperature is greater than 300C. However, if I wait for it to cool down, then my material will begin to solidify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I haven't really tested it, so maybe the chamber can be made to cool down rapidly so I can withdraw the material when it is still hot, I don't know. But I am asking here to see if anyone else has run into this problem and have a solution? According to the manual the risk to the furnace of opening it when it is hot is thermal shock which could cause the lining to crack, but that seems kind of unlikely. The lining is pressed ceramic fiber which as I understand it is pretty stable, but I don't want to second guess the manufacturer, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T14:11:24.837" Title="How to open a hot furnace without damaging it?" Tags="|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10134" CreationDate="2021-04-19T15:08:07.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to continue increasing a pattern worked in the round such as the one given, the key is to look for the pattern of increases in what's been given. The increases, where multiple stitches in a round are worked into a single stitch in the previous round, are what give the pattern its growth in each subsequent, larger round; I personally find them easiest to spot in a pattern diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most square patterns will have the increases primarily in the corners, and that's the case here as well; each corner of this pattern has you work 3DC into the stitch below it, on each side of the &amp;quot;turn.&amp;quot; Additionally, the given pattern has some &amp;quot;petals&amp;quot; in the middle of each side, which have a pattern of their own; for two rows, you work 3DC into the center stitch of the previous round, then 5DC into the center stich, repeating that sequence as the petal grows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use this process to increase any repetitive motif worked in the round to a larger size; this won't work as well if each round is distinct, as in some more elaborate projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T15:08:07.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-18T15:27:33.273" Score="5" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this giant ancient oil jar (18th century) outside of my house, and it has been an outside decoration since ~1960 and it probably has suffered from the winter temperatures. It's a pretty big object of about 105cm tall, 75cm wide, and weighing ~100kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lichens, dark areas, and, more importantly, some &amp;quot;gangrenous areas&amp;quot; where the outside of the pottery is crumbling into dust, slowly decaying layer after layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the damaged surfaces be sanded? With a metal brush, or a random orbit sander?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is a transparent (UV resistant) epoxy coat an appropriate solution to stop the decaying process?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the pottery be painted (before epoxy coating) to recover a clearer color?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the lichens be safely removed, or will just keeping them actually protect the jar?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQIUx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQIUxs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Damaged area&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAXQo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAXQos.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup of the damages&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7vnG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7vnGs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Area that's okay&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10904" OwnerDisplayName="JB. With Monica." LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-20T10:36:01.093" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T16:53:35.703" Title="Can I use epoxy to stabilize/restore 18th century giant pottery?" Tags="|restoration|epoxy-resin|pottery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8902" CreationDate="2021-04-20T02:13:13.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;A weaver's knot joins two threads together in a knot that will secure your threads and allow you to continue weaving.&amp;quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theweavingloom.com/weaving-techniques-the-weavers-knot/#:%7E:text=A%20weaver%27s%20knot%20joins%20two,allow%20you%20to%20continue%20weaving.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not gonna work for you because  your using laces, this is meant to be used as something like  knitting, because you continue to make the knot over and over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your knot doesn't seem to match, I grabbed 2 laces and did what your image is showing, whenever i put pressure on it, it dissconnects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the link you're providing, shows 2 laces, each one with an &amp;quot;omega-like&amp;quot; logo tied together. So the answer is no. You're not doing it right. Try tying them like I said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T02:13:13.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10191" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-04-20T12:14:37.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Description from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/himmeli&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiktionary&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-20T12:14:37.620" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T12:14:37.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10192" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-04-20T12:14:37.620" Score="0" Body="The craft to create hanging, mobile decorations made of straw or other similar material." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-20T12:14:37.620" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T12:14:37.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8902" CreationDate="2021-04-20T19:12:34.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The knot on the web page you posted looks like a basic square knot (aka &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reef_knot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reef knot&lt;/a&gt;) to me, at least as far as the end result is concerned. (They're tying it upside-down for some reason, but they're ending up with two simple overhand knots, one right, one left, and that's gonna get you a square knot.) One of the square knot's main uses is to join two pieces of thread/yarn/string/rope, so it can certainly be used to tie in a new piece of thread while weaving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're tying looks like maybe a strange configuration of a granny knot, which is not likely to stay put if you pull on the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An actual &amp;quot;weaver's knot&amp;quot; does exist, but doesn't look like either your image or the website you linked to. It's also called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_bend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sheet bend&lt;/a&gt;, if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="307" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T19:12:34.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10189" CreationDate="2021-04-22T07:25:52.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a conservator, so I cannot give you a definite answer. And the answer will depend on the value of the object. &lt;strong&gt;If this is a rare remnant of history, do not attempt any restoration and let a professional restorator do their work.&lt;/strong&gt; In that case, it would be almost illegal to apply epoxy to it, because the process isn't reversable. Most amateurs trying to conserve objects do more harm than good. If you just want to avoid buying a modern giant flower pot and there are hundreds of such vessels left, you have more leeway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in the comments, I would avoid power tools. Since the object is already brittle and crumbling, you might damage it with a power tool or it might sand away much more of the object than you like. A metal brush or sand paper would be the safer alternative, even if the cleaning takes a little longer. And please wear a dust mask and eye protection to protect yourself against dust particles and things like mold spores and bacteria that may be contained in that dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To restore it to a fresh look, I would apply a thin layer of fresh clay, which you can buy in many craft stores or online. The pot looks like it may have been made from red or yellow clay, so I would stick to that color. If possible, put the pot on a turntable, so you can rotate it like a potter would do on a potter wheel. In a big bowl mix the fresh clay with enough water to make it a thin paste the consistency of toothpaste. Then transfer the clay paste onto your vessel with your hands and smooth it out while turning the vessel. Let the vessel dry at least 2 days to make sure all moisture is removed from the inside of the walls. The &lt;strong&gt;disadvantage&lt;/strong&gt; of this method is that the clay dissolves if it comes into contact with water again so you absolutely need to seal it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to coat the vessel with a layer of crafting cement. That still absorbs some water, but in general it's more resistant to water and doesn't dissolve again. The &lt;strong&gt;disadvantage&lt;/strong&gt; of this method is the grey color of the cement and you need to wear gloves while working with wet cement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fresh layer of clay will look much more authentic and natural than a layer of paint. Paint always smoothes out the little irregularities of the surface and makes things look flat and monotone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the conservation, the main problem is that the clay soaks up water (the original clay of the vessel just as much as the fresh clay). That causes gradually more damage (by lichen, bacteria and other microbes), but it also poses a challegne for the conservation, since the pot will soak up vast amounts of any liquid (like epoxy) you apply to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ceramic / flower pot sealers available online as a liquid to paint on or as a spray, but those are meant for small objects and you need to apply several coats. Given the size of your pot, that might become expensive. An alternative is brickwall sealer, which is usually available in bigger quantities and also designed to seal absorbant materials. Remember to look for matte finish if you don't want your pot to sparkle in the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more natural sealer is plant oil. You simply soak the vessel in as much oil as it can absorb and let it sit. Over time the chemical composition of the oil will change and it first becomes sticky and then almost like plastic. It's exactly the same process as in oil paints. I assume that the spills you see in one of your pictures are actually oil spills. Usually (for cookware) you would heat the oiled pot to accelerate this process, but I assume that's not an option here. If you cannot heat the vessel, it will take several months to completely change the oil. The &lt;strong&gt;disadvantage&lt;/strong&gt; of this option is that the oil gets very sticky before it becomes inert. It might hold onto dirt in that stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think epoxy would be problematic for such a project for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need a very liquid consistency of epoxy so it soaks deeply into the clay to stabilize it. That means you need a lot of epoxy, which can become expensice very quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need an epoxy with a long drying time to be able to cover the pot evenly. That poses the risk of leaves, insects or other dirt falling on the sticky epoxy and ruining the looks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on the type of epoxy you use, it can heat up and harden extremely quickly if you mix big batches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No epoxy is 100% UV resistant. They will all yellow over time, especially when exposed to direct sunlight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy is a health hazard. You need to wear gloves, eye protection and in many cases a respirator (if working with big amounts of epoxy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy is an environmental hazard. Any liquid epoxy and hardener that you don't need any longer must be disposed of as hazardous waste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy always has a smooth, shiny finish. If you want a matte finish, there are better alternatives (like sealants).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-04-25T16:53:35.703" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T16:53:35.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-22T21:18:33.790" Score="5" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Premise:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we paint with gouache, previously laid layers of paint will get re-wet, and dissolve again, mixing into and strongly impacting (usually, for the worse) whatever we are trying to create on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know one advice is applying layers in a specific order: starting with very diluted, and using less and less diluted subsequent layers: starting with &amp;quot;watery&amp;quot; and progressing towards &amp;quot;buttery&amp;quot; consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet I'm afraid even this layering discipline won't help sufficiently when I'm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trying to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/3304/10433&quot;&gt;an underpainting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trying to create a gradient (I mean &amp;quot;blending&amp;quot;) (which, with gouache, is challenging already in itself) on top of a previously laid layer of a gradient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casein? Very close, but...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTIoOLzT1jbxAcPW99xn0zQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;James Gurney&lt;/a&gt; likes to use casein, which will not dissolve once it dried. He uses it as underpainting under gouache pieces, and for entire works too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But: casein does not seem to be widely available in my region (and I'm not big into online ordering paints), and anyways I'm also discouraged by the challenges that its organic nature imposes on handling it (like its quite short shelf-life). So I would rather look elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What other approach can one take?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other thing could I do, what additional material(s) should I bring in to achieve my above introduced goals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in solutions that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do not compromise the archivalness of the finished works: I wish uncompromised lightfastness (as good as the original paints'), and reliable, long-term adhesion to the carrier material (paper, gesso'd panel, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(preferably) leave the painting's surface similar in character to the original gouache's: I might still would like to apply some color pencil strokes on top, as part of the final steps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10433" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-17T11:42:10.657" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T11:42:10.657" Title="Using an underpainting and painting a gradient on top of another, with gouache" Tags="|painting|medium-selection|technique-selection|gouache|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10195" CreationDate="2021-04-23T10:55:14.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use acrylic paint as an underpainting&lt;/strong&gt;. It can be safely used in combination with gouache. To retain as much as possible of the character of a gouache painting (the matte look and texture), I suggest diluting it nevertheless, which, in addition, will help keep an eventual underdrawing visible and improves adhesion (based on the discussion &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/gouache-over-fluid-matte-acrylics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, it otherwise seems best for adhesion to use a matte medium over the acrylics before continuing with the gouache, or to add gum arabic to your gouache). Please do some tests with this in advance, though: too much dilution will compromise the binding properties of the acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shelf-life is not optimal, but better than casein and tempera, and you can cover your palette/dish/container with cellophane to effectively slow down the drying process whenever you take a break.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Acrylic is flexible even after drying, and can be safely used on paper, canvas, and panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use tempera to create your underpainting.&lt;/strong&gt; After drying, it will be insoluble. It is known for its durability. During the renaissance, even after losing its popularity, this was still regularly used as underpainting for oil paintings because of this characteristic.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;On a layer of tempera it's easier to create gradients using gouache.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Egg tempera is also fairly easy to make, and it won't interfere with the appearance of the gouache that's applied on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another way to keep your underdrawing intact when working on panel, and without having to resort to (organic) mediums, is by &lt;strong&gt;engraving or incising your linework&lt;/strong&gt;. You can also indent lines on non-hardened gesso. You will be able to see the depressed lines even after several layers of thin paint, but of course they might remain&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Of course, this technique is dependent on your artistic style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-25T09:35:11.630" LastActivityDate="2021-04-25T09:35:11.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10199" CreationDate="2021-04-28T11:30:29.670" Score="3" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in need of cheap metal discs &amp;gt;30 mm diameter, about 1-2mm in height - like a big coin.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;This is because I want to weigh down the bases for my tabletop miniatures.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;So far I have been using coins, but the ones available in my country are far from perfect :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10941" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T21:45:01.937" Title="Cheap metal discs?" Tags="|metal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10198" CreationDate="2021-04-28T11:57:39.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume a hole in the middle doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Penny washers (also called mudguard washers, fender washers, or repair washers) are thick enough (often 1.2mm)  and made of steel.  The smaller sizes are usually 25mm diameter, but M8 and M10 are certainly available in 40 and 50 mm diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get them in hardware shops, but there's more choice on ebay, at least where I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T11:57:39.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10202" CreationDate="2021-04-28T19:26:25.360" Score="1" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bearing in mind the fact that the linocut printing process by default is handmade and could involve slight variations (due to the amount of ink rolled, color texture in the printed result, roller pressure on the press, the paper texture, the presence of marks that could provide an unique effect, and so on), and also the fact the the artist is the only one who will decide if the result meets the standards, &lt;strong&gt;should we consider a series of prints made using the same lino source, the same ink, and the same paper a &lt;em&gt;Variable Edition&lt;/em&gt; if there are slight variations in color consistency on the paper?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found an article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.printgonzalez.com/hellbox/2018/4/3/printmaking-101-series-a-guide-editioning-and-signing-fine-art-prints#:%7E:text=The%20standard%20is%20to%20sign,if%20any%2C%20in%20the%20center.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but I'm not 100% sure where this fits into the Printer's marks section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LE: I also have found a great example &lt;a href=&quot;https://images.folksy.com/aXRlbXMvMTAxNDgzMC8yMDIwMDMwNC85NDA1MDY4NjY1Mg-Q-Q-N/main/7425698-A5-Solidarity-Red-Lino-Print-on-Bamboo-Paper-Unframed-Lauren-Linter-Art-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The author accept the differences considering these unique forms adding a remark:&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Please note that [...] due to the handmade process and characteristics of ink, natural differences and irregularities will occur between prints.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9430" LastEditorUserId="9430" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T12:23:27.397" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T13:37:33.980" Title="How to properly mark a linocut prints series" Tags="|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10200" CreationDate="2021-04-29T10:06:37.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware (I'm not a professional artist) the artist should strive to make each print of a series as equal to all other prints as possible. However, if the artist &lt;strong&gt;intentionally&lt;/strong&gt; introduces non-reproduceable variations in how the paper is printed or alters the print by hand, it can be considered a &amp;quot;Varied Edition&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;Variable Edition&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Edition Variable&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You as the artist decide which prints meet your own quality standards. If you want to eliminate as much variation between prints as possible, destroy the prints with too much variation. If you apply several colors at the same time and random color variations (due to leftover color from the previous print) are part of your artwork and you like the way they came out, keep the print and sign it. You could also decide to print an entire series with a different paper or different colors for each print. It's your freedom as artist do decide how you define a series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artists who decide to categorize their series as a &lt;em&gt;Variable Edition&lt;/em&gt; usually label prints with something like &amp;quot;VE 1/10&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;1/10 VE&amp;quot;. That doesn't mean that prints without that addition cannot be varied, it just means that the artist consciously labeled the series as variable. As always, there are no hard rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some short and informative sources are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://margaretwhite.co.nz/variable-edition-print/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What is a Variable Edition Print?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://copperplatepress.com/2014/01/16/variable-editions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Variable Editions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-04-29T13:37:33.980" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T13:37:33.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10200" CreationDate="2021-04-29T11:07:19.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what is important in the nomenclature of the edition is &lt;strong&gt;the intention of the artist&lt;/strong&gt;, meaning that &lt;em&gt;potential inconsistencies have no bearing on the artistic intention&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Irregularities that have a significant impact on different prints are usually eliminated during the print proof phase - if they're not, they become part of the artistic intention, after all, and the edition of this type of print can then be named a Variable Edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color inconsistencies that are due purely to chemical or otherwise technical variations in the process and are not part of the intention of the artist can safely be ignored as variations within a regular edition.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If said effect is induced by the artist, it can go either way, depending, again, on the artist's intention and, perhaps, the obviousness of those mutations: a variety in colour can be seen as a natural side effect of the process, even when prominent, but nothing can stop you from regarding those variations as unique prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, if you feel the technical terms you are using are in any way lacking, you can simply communicate this to your clients. What is paramount is that a (potential) client knows what they're in (and paying) for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T11:07:19.433" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10204" CreationDate="2021-04-29T15:19:59.977" Score="3" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;So hypothetical situation: Let's say I have a hallway, say 10 feet wide. On one side of this hallway, I erect a three-dimensional facade from floor to ceiling, so that it sticks out from the wall. I feel like the likeliest to work may be a semicylinder (cylinder cut lengthwise), but I'm not really sure. To provide a visual example (you'll just have to imagine that these are the correct dimensions and shapes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;______________&#xA;    \___/&#xA;&#xA;______________&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is, would it be possible to paint such a facade in a way that, if a person of the proper height were to walk from one end of the hallway to the other, it would create the illusion at all points along their walk that they were passing a flat expanse of wall? So as the viewer enters the hallway and walks along it, it appears at all angles along that path to be a normal hallway with no protrusion. Assume that the painting is photorealistic for this hypothetical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't possible with a semicylinder, is there a configuration of faces that would make this possible? Or is it simply impossible to create a perspective illusion viewable from that many angles, even controlling for the height and position of the transect the viewer walks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Apologies for poor question tags, apparently I'm not allowed to create proper tags for my question as a new user.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10948" LastEditorUserId="10948" LastEditDate="2021-04-30T03:02:50.073" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T05:41:10.340" Title="Is it possible to paint an oblique (perspective) anamorphic illusion on a three dimensional surface viewable from all angles as you pass it?" Tags="|painting|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10203" CreationDate="2021-04-30T05:41:10.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could make it work from a single vantage point, but not from numerous or continuously changing vantage points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever shape sticks out from the wall (semicylinder or other), I'll call that the protrusion.  Imagine that it was transparent so you could see through it to the features you need to reproduce, such as the line where the wall meets the floor, or the back corner where the side wall meets the back wall.  From a particular vantage point, you could look through the protrusion to a feature you need to reproduce and direct someone to mark where your sight line intersects the protrusion surface.  If you do that for all of the features, you could use those marks to paint the view.  It will have the right perspective to look like what you see from that position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do that from the hall entrance, the closest half of the protrusion will be visible.  Features, like where the wall meets the floor, at the outer visible edge of the protrusion will be aligned with your sight line to the actual feature immediately adjacent to the edge, so the line would look continuous.  If you repeat the process from the other end of the hall, the other half of the protrusion will be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you walk from the end of the hall toward the protrusion, the end of the drawn line will no longer match the visual location of the feature, so the line won't look continuous.  From the middle of the protrusion, you can see the entire thing.  From that vantage point, your sight lines to the features are different, as well as where those lines intersect the protrusion surface.  So reproducing that vantage point will yield a different image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the protrusion is curved, what looked like straight lines from the original vantage point will look like curved lines from another vantage point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further complicate things, all surfaces would need to be uniform colors (e.g., a wood floor would have wood grain detail).  In real life, objects farther away look smaller.  From the hall entrance, when you look through the protrusion to the farthest features to reproduce, any detail or texture would need to be painted smaller on the protrusion surface.  When you walk toward the protrusion, the relative size of those details will become wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another complication -- even if you could perfectly reproduce the features and perfectly light it so no shadows gave it away (such as where the object meets the wall), your eyes would tell you it isn't a flat wall.  Eyes accommodate for distance (the closer the object, the more your eyes turn toward the center).  It's automatic so that what you're looking at is centered where your eyes discriminate the most detail, and your brain uses it as a clue to the object's distance.  Within a normal hallway, the distance to the object as you walk past it would probably be within the range that your brain would detect a discrepancy if you were looking at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, if you could make the protrusion really long, so you can't easily see the far end from one side, and if there were no vertical features like a back corner, the only visible reference would be an adjacent portion of the protrusion.  You could map the sight line intersections at small intervals from one end of the hall to the other, and create a &amp;quot;moving average&amp;quot; of the line.  With no other visual reference, it might be hard to notice that the wall isn't flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-04-30T05:41:10.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10198" CreationDate="2021-04-30T14:29:12.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lead, probably free, cut it with scissors to any size, about 50% more dense than steel, copper and nickel. In the US plumbing stacks ( roof penetration vents) normally are covered with sheet lead ( Measured at 0.039&amp;quot; , basically 1 mm- unusual for a US product.), when new shingles are put on , I pick up a couple of the old lead liners / flashing. I think any supplier of roofing materials would have sheet lead flashing available. Only down side is lead has had bad public relations and is politically incorrect . But no one will know if you do not tell them it is lead. I find it very handy for low strength custom straps, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="3114" LastEditDate="2021-05-01T21:45:01.937" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T21:45:01.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-04-30T14:33:01.270" Score="3" ViewCount="1518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried nail varnish remover and don't know what else to try. Any suggestions will be gratefully received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10949" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-04-30T15:00:06.070" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T07:08:47.380" Title="How do I remove adhesive spray from my self healing cutting mat?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10206" CreationDate="2021-05-01T01:48:41.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would avoid chemical solvents intended to dissolve the glue (like nail polish remover or mineral spirits), as those may also degrade the plastic in the cutting mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manufacturer's Recommendations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have the adhesive can, check the label for cleanup instructions for the dried adhesive.  If you don't still have the can but remember the product name, find the manufacturer's web site and look there for the cleanup instructions.  Even if they don't have instructions, the web site is likely to have a link to the MSDS, which will list the components and provide a clue to what is likely to work if you add that information to the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they say the dried adhesive cleans up with water, soapy water, or alcohol, try the manufacturer's recommendation.  If they suggest a solvent like mineral spirits, hold off and first see if the suggestions below work (manufacturers generally don't offer specialized cleaning advice for every possible surface, or suggest things that take a long time to work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Otherwise&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't a benign cleaner suggested, there are a number of common household ingredients that may work.  Some should be completely safe for the mat (as long as you don't damage the mat trying to scrub it), some may leave the mat discolored, and some may damage the mat depending on what the mat is made of.  The fast, simple solution is just to buy a new mat.  But if you're willing to put in some time, try these suggestions in the order of their risk until you find one that works (or you have to buy a new mat because either you damage this one trying to clean it, or determine that nothing will clean it that doesn't destroy the mat in the process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what type of plastic your mat is made of.  If you're lucky, it will be polypropylene or polyethylene, because adhesives generally don't bond well with those.  Some adhesives bond with vinyl, but you still might have some luck.  Rather than dissolve the adhesive, the approach here will be just to get it off the mat without damaging the mat, either by getting it to release from the surface or degrading it so it falls apart.  A word of caution -- cutting mats can warp, so do any of the following suggestions with room temperature materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Managing Expectations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Self-healing mats have a lot of surface area for glue to stick to, so be prepared for a potentially slow cleaning process.  They can also be easily damaged, so clean them non-aggressively.  The way they work is that the surface is composed of tiny segments bonded together below the surface.  A sharp cutting implement pushes segments out of the way and goes between them.  When you remove the cutter, the segments move back into position.  Those gaps between the segments will provide a lot of surface for the adhesive to stick to, even if it doesn't bond well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safe Cleaners&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay the mat flat in a plastic tray and submerge it in the  liquid selected from the list below (use only one at a time, in the order suggested).  If the tray has a lid, use it to minimize evaporation.  You can minimize wastage by using the &amp;quot;paper towel&amp;quot; method instead of submersion.  Wet a piece of paper towel with the selected liquid and lay it on the adhesive.  Cover with plastic wrap to slow evaporation.  Check periodically to see if the paper towel is drying out and add more liquid as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either method, let the adhesive soak for an hour.  Then see if the adhesive has been affected (did it become soft, crumbly, or release from the surface).  If it has, use a soft brush or sponge to try to gently remove as much as you can without applying much pressure.  Then repeat as necessary on any residual.  If the adhesive wasn't affected, try the next material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vinegar&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alcohol&lt;/strong&gt; (70% or higher rubbing alcohol).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soapy water&lt;/strong&gt; (water with a little liquid dish detergent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaners that may discolor the mat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil + baking soda&lt;/strong&gt;: Make a paste by mixing equal amounts of baking soda and oil.  Coconut oil is best but any cooking oil will do.  You can also use mayonnaise instead of oil.  Spread the paste on the adhesive and let it sit for an hour.  Then gently scrub the paste with a sponge and see if any of the adhesive comes off.  If it does, remove as much as you can and repeat the process for any residual.  If the adhesive is unaffected or when you are done cleaning with the oil and baking soda, use the soapy water in a tray setup to remove all of the oil and baking soda.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaners that might damage some plastics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following contain hydrocarbon solvents that can damage some kinds of plastic.  If you have exhausted the suggestions above and the adhesive isn't affected, the choice comes down to leaving the mat as-is or risking damaging it.  If you're lucky, the plastic in the mat won't be affected (although there's a chance it could be discolored).  So save these for when you would otherwise toss the mat and have nothing to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduce your risk by testing these on an edge.  If they attack the plastic, only the edge will be damaged.  Note that the gaps between the segments will create capillary action that will draw these liquids into the mat.  Put some on a cotton swab and wipe it on the edge, but don't create a puddle that can wick in.  Check it after one minute to see if the plastic feels soft or sticky.  Rub a dry cotton swab on the area to see if it leaves any marks on the plastic.  If it is OK after one minute, repeat the application and test again after 10 minutes.  If there's no sign of the plastic being attacked, try it on the adhesive.  If the first one of these materials you try attacks the plastic, it means that the mat is made of a type of plastic that will probably be attacked by any of these materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're done, or if the material attacks the plastic, wash the treated area with alcohol, then wash it in soapy water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try these in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mineral spirits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goo Gone&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;WD40&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hydrocarbon solvents will evaporate pretty quickly.  Apply the liquid to the adhesive spots with a cotton swab (with WD40, just spray the spot, or spray a little into a container and then use a cotton swab).  Keep reapplying the liquid to the adhesive as the solvents evaporate (Goo Gone and WD40 will still look oily after the solvent evaporates).  Keep liquid on the edges of the adhesive so it can wick under.  Most adhesives will soften and or release after about five minutes of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General Cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from your current situation with adhesive, it's generally important to clean the surface regularly to remove dust and fibers that get pushed between the segments as that distorts the surface and keeps the segments from returning to their normal position.  There are videos online for how to do that (just search terms like &amp;quot;cleaning self-healing cutting mat&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;caring for self-healing mat&amp;quot;).  Those videos deal with normal dust and fibers, not adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T01:48:41.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10206" CreationDate="2021-05-01T12:16:24.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also a manual solution to this problem: &lt;strong&gt;Sticky tape&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may seem counter-intuitive, but putting sticky tape on the mat and pulling it back off has a chance to pull the adhesive residue off as well. The glue on tape bonds with the adhesive residue on the mat. When you pull the tape off, the adhesive has only 2 choices:&#xA;either stick on the mat or stick on the tape. If the glue on the tape is strong enough (like duct tape or wire insulation tape) it will pull the adhesive away from the mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, cut a strip of tape roughly as long as your hand is wide. Hold both ends of the tape together, sticky side out. Now dab the tape onto the mat and pull it away again repeatedly. If this methods works, you'll notice the adhesive residue on the tape. Once the surface of the tape is covered with residue so much that it doesn't stick well anymore, discard the strip of tape and cut a fresh one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T12:16:24.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10213" CreationDate="2021-05-01T20:53:29.160" Score="2" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when making things with thermoplastic (I have Thibra; the other big brand here is Worbla), I want to be able to use other objects as models (like if I need a small cone I could wrap it around a sharp pencil, or if I'm making something that needs to fit onto something else, or making a mold of an existing object, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But about 90% of the time it ends up sticking &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; strongly to the model I've molded it around. I've had this problem with an unexpected range of materials, including (but not limited to): aluminum (polished and rough), mild steel, stainless steel, tool steel, brass, copper, wood (of varying porosity, from walnut to maple), ABS, PVC, LDPE, HDPE (the most surprising), polypropylene, polyester resins, polyurethane resins, polyurethane finishes, and on and on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Name it, and I've probably made a hot gooey mess on it. With thermoplastic. (You're disgusting, get your mind out of the gutter!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's a long way of asking: How do I keep this stuff from sticking to the models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried removing it in various stages of cooling, but, it doesn't &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4839" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T22:38:00.507" Title="Keeping thermoplastic from sticking to models" Tags="|mold-making|technique-selection|thermoplastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10211" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-01T21:00:02.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thermoplastics are plastics that become soft and pliable when heated, and return to a stiff state after cooling. They are typically sold in sheets or pellets, and are often reusable. Many varieties are also biodegradable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are commonly used in costume design, but have a large variety of other uses as well, including mold making, vacuum forming, prototyping, and many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Popular brands available at art supply outlets include Thibra, Worbla, and Amaco. Other types of thermoplastics are available from a variety of sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4839" LastEditorUserId="4839" LastEditDate="2021-05-01T23:10:11.093" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T23:10:11.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10212" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-01T21:00:02.817" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about thermoplastics." OwnerUserId="4839" LastEditorUserId="4839" LastEditDate="2021-05-01T23:10:46.853" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T23:10:46.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10210" CreationDate="2021-05-01T22:24:51.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used the stuff, but it has a reputation for sticking to everything.  Have you tried a release agent?  I'll offer some speculation on what should probably work (the first things I would try in your situation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the shape of the object lends itself, wrap it with oven parchment paper.  That's impregnated with silicone, takes high temperatures, and not much sticks to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you aren't worried about preserving surface detail, dilute silicone caulk with mineral spirits to a thin paint consistency and coat the object with it.  Give it a few days to completely dry and cure.  It won't be very durable, but you may get several uses out of it before you need to peel off the coating and apply a fresh one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dust the object surface with powdered graphite or talc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coat the object with WD40 unless the solvents will attack the object, in which case, just apply a coating of oil or a thin layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the object won't melt or distort, dip it in melted wax and use a hot air gun to melt off all but a very thin layer of the wax.  The hot plastic may melt more of the wax or bond with it, but it should still release from the object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can't get a decent layer of graphite or talc to cover the object, coat the surface with WD40 or oil.  Use that film to hold a good dusting of graphite or talc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to try a few different things to find what works best on a particular surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that might help release it: stick it in the freezer overnight.  The plastic will become less elastic and you might also get differential shrinkage of the plastic and the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-05-01T22:38:00.507" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T22:38:00.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3522" CreationDate="2021-05-02T01:24:37.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a technique I've used for a similar requirement that doesn't require thermoforming or vacuum forming.  You end up with a flexible, rubbery dome (or other shape per the mold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step is to stretch a stretchy cloth material over the mold (needs to be a convex mold for this, where you can stretch the cloth over the outside).  Stretch it where needed so that it is completely flat against the mold with no bulges.  Cloth like old tee shirt material works well, and cotton absorbs well for the next step.  Shapes with smooth, regular surfaces like domes work well.  Something like a cube would probably require alterations to the cloth for it to lay flat on the form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second step is to impregnate the cloth, which holds it in that shape and gives it the plastic or rubbery feel.  The form composition will affect what you can use for this, and whether you will need a release agent (never hurts).  Here are some of the materials I've used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hot melt glue&lt;/strong&gt; (generally use a metal form for this).  Apply enough glue to cover the surface with a thin layer.  Use the glue gun tip to spread the glue around.  Then use a heat gun at a low setting to heat the glue to the point that it becomes watery (but not so hot that it scorches).  The glue will soak into the cloth and the surface will self-level.  When it cools, you have your shape.  I sometimes turn it inside out, put it back on the form, and repeat the process on the other side.  If you want a high-quality surface, turn it inside out when you're done, as the inside surface molds itself to the form and retains the surface detail and finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is flexible and rubbery but stiff enough to keep its shape. This is also a handy way to make small, formed things like phone covers.  Large items the size described in the question would be flexible enough to fold within reason for storage or transportation.  As long as you don't press a sharp crease into it, it won't retain the fold line when you reopen it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Silicone caulk&lt;/strong&gt; thinned with mineral spirits to paint consistency.  Apply as many coats as needed to saturate the cloth and leave a surface layer.  Then turn it inside out, put it back on the form and coat the other side to catch any spots without a good coating.  The first side needs to cure to the point that it's stable (mostly cured) before flipping it to the second side, especially if you might stretch or distort it getting it off the form.  Once it's finished, let it dry and cure for several days.  Then remove it from the form and let it dry another day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is very soft and rubbery.  It will retain it's shape, but on something large, may not be stiff enough to not sag or collapse from its own weight without filler.  It is soft and flexible enough to fold as needed for storage and transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PVA glue&lt;/strong&gt;.  Thin it with water so it absorbs into the cloth.  Once the cloth is saturated, you can add a coating of undiluted glue.  This dries harder and less flexible than hot melt glue, but still flexible (i.e., not rigid) and strong.  This might not be sufficiently flexible to fold for storage and transportation.  But you could do something like cut it into sections joined by a hinge of the same (untreated) cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also used this technique with other materials to produce a hard plastic or air-dry clay or cold porcelain shell, but those wouldn't be applicable to the requirements here.  A single layer of cloth has always been adequate for my own needs, but you can repeat the process to add a second layer of cloth if you need something even stronger or more rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T01:24:37.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10217" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-02T08:28:28.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can be used for questions concerning candle-making, the lost-wax technique used in sculpture, encaustic, or any other topic involving wax as a pertinent material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sculpture&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpture&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sculpture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/candle-making&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;candle-making&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;candle-making&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T08:28:28.280" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T08:28:28.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10218" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-02T08:28:28.280" Score="0" Body="For questions involving wax as a pertinent material." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T08:28:28.280" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T08:28:28.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10219" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-02T08:33:05.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions involving rubber as a relevant material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/erasers&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;erasers&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;erasers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T08:33:05.197" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T08:33:05.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10220" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-02T08:33:05.197" Score="0" Body="For questions involving rubber as a relevant material." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T08:33:05.197" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T08:33:05.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10221" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-02T08:56:00.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definition quoted from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lexico.com/definition/dye&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lexico.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fabric&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fabric&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fabric&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/leather&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;leather&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;leather&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T08:56:00.877" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T08:56:00.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10222" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-02T08:56:00.877" Score="0" Body="Dyeing is the process of adding colours to a material &quot;by soaking it in a solution impregnated with a dye&quot;. Use this tag for questions about the process, or its possibilities concerning the colouring of a specific material." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T08:56:00.877" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T08:56:00.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3966" CreationDate="2021-05-02T20:07:05.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Abstract in an artistic meaning&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; is still pretty vague, as some of the answers here demonstrate through their divergence. There are two major interpretations of the term 'abstract':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One is a sequence of art movements and their derivative styles - from post-impressionism to cubism - that is known as &lt;strong&gt;abstract art&lt;/strong&gt;, synonymous to and/or an increasingly prominent characteristic of modern art.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In this sense, abstraction is image-making devoid of any direct or obvious analogy to the (visually) perceivable world.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second is &lt;strong&gt;the process of abstraction&lt;/strong&gt; (which is not unique to the visual arts), where abstraction is a representational simplification of what can be perceived (with any of our senses, really). This simplification can be due to technical or artistic reasons. Every work of art is abstracted to some degree, as pure representation is impossible.&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the term 'abstraction' can refer to both meanings, and the term for the disposition prevalent in the arts in the first half of the 20th century is directly derived from the meaning of the word in that second, broader sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it make sense to state that one of these picture is more abstract, in an artistic meaning, than the other one, and, if so, which one could be deemed more abstract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per my delineation I'd say both are abstracted, but, unlike the first, the second one can be regarded as an abstract image, and here is why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nº 1, 'Titan', is a stylized version of what can be viewed as a probable scene: on Titan, one of Saturn's moons, floating on a sea of &amp;quot;ammonia-rich liquid water&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, against a rising or setting Saturn, we see several boats with occupants on the horizon.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;All components are plausibly connected, on scale, with a uniform and physically plausible colouring scheme, and in uniform lighting. In that sense, this image is realistic. The only abstraction here is the stylization, in this case a diminishing of details (to improve the atmosphere and overall impression).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nº 2, 'Mars', lacks all of these properties. It is a composition of elements related through association, not through a potential 'mise-en-scene', like poster nº 1. Furthermore, the distinct elements are themselves abstracted to such a level that they become icons - symbols that signify not a specific object, but the concept of a generic object (e.g. &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; spacecraft consist of but two polygons, &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; astronaut's profile's a single line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best categories to use to distinguish these two styles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nº 1 is narrative in character, it's dramatic, romantic, and epic. I'd say the closest you can get to naming the style of this design, is by pointing out the emphasis it places on capturing a cinematic atmosphere; I think it is intended to imitate a &lt;strong&gt;film poster&lt;/strong&gt;. The big title and the catchphrase at the bottom corroborate this.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The artistic style is even harder to place - its abstraction (e.g. the painterly flow of the reflections in the water) seems independent of what it tries to communicate. It's &lt;strong&gt;realistic illustration&lt;/strong&gt;, but difficult to narrow down more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nº 2 is as flat as possible, the only depth cue is the overlap in the elements which are configured purely for compositional purposes. I think this poster's style can be considered '&lt;strong&gt;flat design&lt;/strong&gt;' (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8262/whats-the-name-of-this-cartoon-style&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a related Q&amp;amp;A).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_design&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, flat design&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;is a style of interface design emphasizing minimalist use of simple elements, typography and flat colors.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;[..] &lt;em&gt;It is easier to quickly convey information while still looking visually appealing and approachable.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where poster Nº 1 is a movie poster, this seems to be more of &lt;strong&gt;an ad or an informational poster&lt;/strong&gt;. It invites the observer to &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;visit the historic sites&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; on Mars. Of course, in that sense it is also narrative, suggesting Mars has been colonized for a significant amount of time, so it can even be regarded as a 'fictional prop'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* The only &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; exception I can think of now is photography, but that's for another time and place.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titan_(moon)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titan_(moon)&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T20:07:05.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10224" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-03T15:37:44.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Papier-mâché is French for &amp;quot;mashed paper&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia page: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sculpture&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpture&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sculpture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/glue&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;glue&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;glue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-03T15:37:44.363" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T15:37:44.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10225" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-03T15:37:44.363" Score="0" Body="Papier-mâché is a construction material made of pieces of paper and an adhesive binder like glue or starch. The name also refers to the craft involving this material. It is often used as a basis for sculpting. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-03T15:37:44.363" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T15:37:44.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10226" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-03T20:15:45.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cardboard&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cardboard&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;cardboard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/printing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;printing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-03T20:15:45.117" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T20:15:45.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10227" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-03T20:15:45.117" Score="0" Body="Posters are printed pictures, often used for advertisements or decoration, and printed on coated, durable paper. Use this tag when your project involves the manipulation or incorporation of a poster." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-03T20:15:45.117" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T20:15:45.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8203" CreationDate="2021-05-03T20:20:47.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lightly scratch surface with fine scouring pad...Mix 2 teaspons of salt with warm water in 12 oz spray bottle and lightly mist sheet metal until completely wet...Rust will begin basically immediately ( not to naked eye) because its caused from Oxygen and moisture&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10973" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T20:20:47.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10179" CreationDate="2021-05-03T22:02:17.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's an option for you, but there are resin tints you can use that are much lighter than alcohol inks. I use both, and it takes a whole lot of tint to get anything too dark. And they are transluscent as well. Very nice colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10974" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T22:02:17.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10186" CreationDate="2021-05-04T08:17:11.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are ovens made to be opened when hot and there are ovens not made to be opened when hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you mention what the manual says, yours can not be opened when hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As there are different parts that go wrong at strong heat loss or getting the full blast of the oven heat, it is impossible to predict what your oven can handle and whether you can adjust it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to replace this oven with one made to be opened when hot. Your second best bet is to ask the maker or a community of oven users where someone may have more knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2021-05-04T14:11:24.837" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T14:11:24.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-05T13:45:08.787" Score="7" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to create my own outdoor canopy for my small deck. This canopy is going to be a large swathe of fabric that will attach to a wall and the deck fence, creating a sloped shade. What are good fabric options for this sort of purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't care if the fabric is waterproof because I'm planning on only extending the shade when I'm underneath it, and I won't be going outside in the rain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do want the fabric to be able to dry relatively quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't want the fabric to totally obscure the sunlight, I'd like partial shade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally I would like to be able to sew additions to the fabric without special tools like an industrial sewing machine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastEditorUserId="343" LastEditDate="2021-05-13T18:41:15.697" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T02:23:38.663" Title="What's a good fabric to use for an outdoor canopy?" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10232" CreationDate="2021-05-05T17:33:22.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are fabrics of different materials and weaves designed specifically for that purpose. They hold up to UV and wind, dry quickly, are resistant to abrading through where they are secured or in contact with supports, and offer different levels of light filtering. They are sold as &amp;quot;outdoor canopy fabric&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;awning and shade fabric&amp;quot;. Here are a couple of links to get you started (I'm not personally familiar with these specific products): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Canopy-Fabric/s?k=Outdoor+Canopy+Fabric&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon Outdoor Canopy Fabric&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sailrite.com/Fabrics/Outdoor-Living-Fabric/Awning-and-Shade-Fabric&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sailrite Awning &amp;amp; Shade Fabric&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that you could use a regular sewing machine to attach trimming to virtually any of these fabrics.  The fabrics are often a bit thick and heavy-duty, but they are still cloth, and many upholstery fabrics are thicker.  An industrial sewing machine isn't needed to perform the sewing for a one-time job.  But it would be used in a factory setting making canopies, mainly because it would have a much longer service life under those operating conditions and workload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-05-13T23:56:13.957" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T23:56:13.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1721" CreationDate="2021-05-05T18:06:02.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much adheres to nylon.  Umbrella fabric with a tight weave also won't provide an opportunity for paint to get through pores and lock itself to the material.  The weave will provide more surface area than a smooth film, but I wouldn't expect paint to stick long term unless you can find some designed for nylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's something you could try (haven't tested it myself).  Some hard-to-bond plastics become more active when they are heated.  Heat is often part of the process for gluing them.  Hot melt glue will often stick to some of these.  You could try spreading a very thin layer of low-temperature hot melt glue on the area you want to paint.  Then use a hot air gun at the low setting to melt the glue to a watery consistency, but not so hot that it scorches.  It will self-level and flow into nooks and crannies.  You want the thinnest film you can create, so put down very little glue and add to it if some areas don't get covered by the time you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The area will be stiffer than the plain fabric, but a very thin film will still be very flexible and not prone to peeling off on its own.  Paint will stick to the hot melt glue, and even if the glue doesn't make a &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot; bond to the nylon, it will stick a lot better and longer than paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T18:06:02.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10232" CreationDate="2021-05-06T10:30:03.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a cheap option, second hand tents and tent-like tarps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New tarps are available but those will be expensive if you only want to use them as fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sails of smaller boats or surfboards can also be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2021-05-06T10:54:33.630" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T10:54:33.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10206" CreationDate="2021-05-07T07:08:47.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw the question about removing spray adhesive and any sticky adhesive or residue cleans off easily with rubbing alcohol. It evaporates quickly and doesnt leave a film. I use it for everything from cleaning sticky epoxy off my hands to removal of sale stickers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10993" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T07:08:47.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-07T13:33:02.773" Score="3" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of water soluble pencils (specifically &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jacksonsart.com/cretacolor-artino-graphite-drawing-set-of-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cretacolor Artino Graphite Set 10&lt;/a&gt;). I have no interest in using them with water for now - are there any downsides to using them as regular pencils? Any noticeable difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a related question for color pencils, but I think they behave differently than graphite:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/1760/&quot;&gt;Does it make sense to use water color pencils instead of normal color pencils for dry coloring?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10945" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-07T15:21:30.480" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T15:21:30.480" Title="Are there any downsides to using black water-soluble pencils as regular pencils?" Tags="|pencils|pencil-shading|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10237" CreationDate="2021-05-07T15:17:03.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the biggest part &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/1762/6388&quot;&gt;the answer to the related question&lt;/a&gt; is still valid. Water soluble graphite pencils are intended to be used both as pencils and as paint, and they will hold up just as well.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The appearance on paper between the two types of pencils is similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The only downside I can think of is that accidental smears might be harder or impossible to erase&lt;/strong&gt; - when water is used in combination with water soluble graphite, the graphite cannot be erased anymore. Wiping a finger, wrist, or hand, especially when it's a little sweaty, can ruin a drawing more severely than when you're working with regular pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T15:17:03.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-09T12:45:34.997" Score="-3" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a sewing machine, so that I make my own clothes.  But, in order to protect my ego as an almost-40 years old dude, I'd like it to look a bit &lt;em&gt;manly&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the Singer Heavy Duty 4452, which is sort of manly due to the sharp edges, dark colour, no cute drawings, etc.  But, before I buy it, I'd like to know if there is an even more manly looking sewing machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sewing requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be heavy duty (e.g. do layers of leather and jeans, also suitable for furniture and curtain).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow me to sew like a professional.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look manly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a more manly-looking sewing machine than the Singer Heavy Duty 4452?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Before you down-vote, note that this question is very serious. You may think that I'm trolling, but I'm not.  I cannot work seriously on my clothing projects while seeing a girly sewing machine with cute drawings and round corners.  I have defined manliness in a pretty objective manner, too.  It is not perfectly objective, but I'm pretty sure you can get an idea of what I am looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Appendix&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Definition:&lt;/strong&gt; Sewing machine &lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; is aid to look &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;more manly&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; than another sewing machine &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt;, if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; has has less round parts (i.e. more sharp angles) than &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; has more metal parts than &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; has less drawings on it than &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; has more informative text written on it than &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; is darker than &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; is less shiny than &lt;strong&gt;Y&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11001" LastEditorUserId="11001" LastEditDate="2021-05-09T12:58:27.987" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T21:55:36.497" Title="Sewing machine that looks manly" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2021-05-09T20:47:34.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10239" CreationDate="2021-05-09T14:03:08.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The machine you have found seems like a good choice out of the machines available new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is not a problem to work on a different kind of machine which is less masculine on the outside as you do look at you work when you are working and you can tidy your machine away when you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can not find a new machine you like, talk with a sewing machine shop owner that does trade in second hand machines and see if an older one can do the job for you.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I am at the moment anticipating the arrival of my mothers Singer, bought 65 years back. Looks masculine and I have used it for a lot of 'strange' jobs. Alas no guaranty you will find an old machine like that in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T14:03:08.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10239" CreationDate="2021-05-09T21:55:36.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question asks for recommendations of sewing machines that have a certain type of appearance.  I can't answer that directly, but maybe I can expand your options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were sewing your own sails, tents, or outdoor canopies, or upholstering furniture, the appearance of the sewing machine probably wouldn't be that important to you.  It would just be the available tool.  Consider whether the significance of the sewing machine's appearance is related to the fact that you want to use it to make clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some cultural stereotyping that sewing clothes is a &amp;quot;feminine&amp;quot; thing, but most tailors of men's clothes are men and they don't view their work as &amp;quot;feminine&amp;quot;.  I suspect that among tailors, you would find roughly the same distribution of characteristics we associate with &amp;quot;manliness&amp;quot; as for the population as a whole.  It generally doesn't require the physical strength of, say, construction work, but neither does a job like computer repair, and we don't think of that as &amp;quot;feminine&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've defined &amp;quot;manly&amp;quot; characteristics for a sewing machine in good, objective terms.  But many of these seem like conflations; some are design characteristics that are merely practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rounding is a safety and ergonomic characteristic.  It is more comfortable to handle a smooth surface than an angular one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal rather than plastic relates to cost and age.  In &amp;quot;olden times&amp;quot;, the plastics available today didn't exist; everything was made out of metal.  If there were plastic parts, they were something like Bakelite.  For sewing machines manufactured now, metal is used on high-end, professional equipment that is designed to last a very long time under heavy, continuous use.  Machines made for the consumer market are generally plastic, which is partly how they control cost.  If you want metal, it will put you in a different class of machine and you will pay more for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drawings and information are a user-interface thing, generally targeted at amateur vs. professional users.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color is a matter of personal preference.  Manufacturers try to appeal to a broad range of customers by giving people a color choice (just like car and appliance manufacturers).  There's also a little usability benefit for some colors (e.g., better contrast with thread, the amount of reflected light that can be easier on your eyes depending on lighting).  If a manufacturer offered a machine in a color like pink, I might suspect that was targeted at a feminine audience.  But basic white or black is genderless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not sure why shininess would be associated with feminine or masculine.  A shiny surface is typically easier to clean and maintain, but can also create glare from reflected light.  A slightly matte surface is the best compromise.  This kind of finish might be easier to find on a higher-end machine than a low-cost consumer-grade machine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than trying to define or attribute appearance characteristics as masculine vs. feminine, you might find it more useful to contrast &amp;quot;consumer&amp;quot; vs. &amp;quot;professional&amp;quot;.  You'll pay a lot more for professional-grade, but it will also hold up much longer and be more serviceable if you use it a lot.  Professional-grade machines will generally look more heavy-duty and utilitarian.  They will also be designed to do their core tasks well and are less likely to include endless &amp;quot;features&amp;quot; you will never use (which also goes to the markings on the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sewing machine is basically just a tool.  There may be some machines targeted at a feminine or masculine audience, but that would be marketing gimmicks, designed to appeal to people for whom appearance is more important than function.  Professional-grade machines are not designed to appeal to gender, they're designed to do the job well for any user.  How their appearance is perceived (manly vs. feminine) is all in the eye of the beholder.  Consider a high-performance automobile.  Whether it has smooth curves or sharp lines, and regardless of color, it is attractive regardless of gender.  To the extent it looks feminine or masculine, that is something artificial that individuals project onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to invest in a machine, spend your money on performance and quality.  No professional-grade, heavy-duty machine is really going to look non-manly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T21:55:36.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-09T22:09:47.653" Score="6" ViewCount="1104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a few pictures like &lt;a href=&quot;https://wallup.net/matei-apostolescu-colorful-artwork-surreal-detailed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, but I never found out what to call them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZz5g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZz5g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Artwork by Matei Apostolescu&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't necessarily need to be this abstract, just a detailed illustration, where lots of things are going on or are just present (perhaps I'd compare it to Where is Waldo illustrations).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;What key words to use if you want to find more pictures like this one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11005" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-12T18:03:06.453" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T18:03:06.453" Title="What do you call these pictures / illustrations?" Tags="|style-identification|illustration|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10243" CreationDate="2021-05-09T23:15:34.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to pinpoint, because it's neither a genre nor a style, but it reminds me of &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;horror vacui&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, i.e. 'fear of empty space' (think &lt;em&gt;vacuum horror&lt;/em&gt;), a type of design that gained special popularity during the Baroque period, when elaborate shapes and intricate decorations ideally adorned every last piece of surface in art and architecture.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Searching for the term in search engines will yield &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=horror%20vacui&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar images&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T23:15:34.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5748" CreationDate="2021-05-10T06:32:47.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me get a little bit into the weeds of how color vision and color blindness work to provide a better understanding of how color blindness could affect art ability and success.  &amp;quot;Color blindness&amp;quot; actually covers a lot of different conditions characterized by a reduced or altered perception of at least some colors, but I'll stick with the most prevalent condition for this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color &amp;quot;blindness&amp;quot; is a bit of a misnomer because while your eyes have reduced ability to differentiate certain colors, you still see the colors.  For problem colors, you basically see an &amp;quot;optical illusion&amp;quot; of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your visual experience of the world is images created in your brain.  Your eyes provide data, but the images produced by your brain aren't one-for-one matches with what your eyes see.  Much of it is interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normal color vision&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal eyes have three types of cones (the receptors for color).  Each type is sensitive to a distribution of colors (light wavelengths) with the most sensitivity being to one of the primary colors (red, green, or blue).  These distributions heavily overlap, so most color wavelengths trigger activity in at least two kinds of cones, some all three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYGYe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYGYe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Image courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/vision/colcon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Color-Sensitive Cones&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brain has an idea of what all the colors are supposed to look like.  It determines what a color is by comparing how each different type of cone reacts to it, then assigns that color.  The color you see is the color your brain tells you it is.  With normal vision, that color interpretation is very reliable.  If something looks green, under normal conditions you can count on the fact that it is green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take differentiating red from green, for example.  The peak sensitivity for red cones is mostly yellow light.  They are triggered equally by greenish light to the left of the peak and reddish light to the right.  The green cones are most sensitive to greenish light.  They also react to reddish light, but less so than the red cones.  Blue cones have a little sensitivity to greenish light.  With normal vision, comparing how the three types of cones respond tells your brain whether the light is reddish or greenish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Color blind vision&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With color blindness, your eyes have a deficiency of cones for one of the primary colors.  The process still works the same way, but your brain has to rely on the activity of two types of cones instead of three.  In the red-green example, above, if you remove the &amp;quot;green&amp;quot; curve, there are still some clues.  For much of the green range, the blue cones have a little activity to compare against.  If there's no blue cone activity, a color that's off-peak for the red cones is probably reddish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brain can adapt to some extent to use the reduced data available to make color interpretations from the cone activity in your eyes.  But as you can see in the image, there are ranges of color where that would leave your brain relying almost entirely on data from one type of cone to differentiate two primary colors that the cone is equally sensitive to (i.e., a certain level of activity triggered in the cone could have come from either greenish or reddish light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brain is wired to assign a color, it has to assign something, and it has to do it in real time.  So it picks one, and that's the color it looks like.  The color you perceive isn't necessarily the color that enters your eyes, it's the color resulting after the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Luc_Picard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jean-Luc Picard&lt;/a&gt; cells in your brain say, &amp;quot;Make it so.&amp;quot;  (Sorry if any readers are unfamiliar with the Star Trek reference.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This color selection is essentially a guess.  If you look again at the same color, your brain will make a guess and assign a color, but that guess may not be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How color blindness manifests&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With mild color blindness, strong colors may not be much affected.  In general, the way color blindness manifests is this.  Say you are red-green color blind and look at a single color in your problem range.  Depending on the surrounding context, your brain might interpret it as red and it will look red.  With a different surrounding context, or even just looking at it again, your brain might interpret it as green and it will look green.  When it looks red, it unequivocally looks red.  When it looks green, it unequivocally looks green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at multiple problem colors adjacent to each other, like a color blindness test image, your eyes can't reliably discriminate the different colors.  Your brain assigns color guesses.  So some components look like the right or wrong color guess, and some components may look like a hue that is a combination of the problem colors.  These color assignments are essentially random.  So you can see the colored components, but the embedded shape doesn't survive the random color assignments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Color blindness glasses&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The special glasses mentioned in A. Staffelbach's answer work by filtering out narrow ranges of the problem colors.  By eliminating those colors, your brain is better able to guess colors from the remaining clues and you can more reliably differentiate colors close to the problem colors.  A side effect is that what you see is a bit like the color enhancement setting on a monitor or TV that makes colors more saturated and contrasty.  The result is an experience that is &amp;quot;better&amp;quot; but &amp;quot;less accurate&amp;quot; (relative to actual, but not relative to your own baseline).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effect on art&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you apply these characteristics to art, you can understand how your art would be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It will be difficult to work with pale colors in your problem range.  You will have trouble differentiating the detail you create in those areas.  In order for you to see the detail, you may need to use higher contrast, which might not look accurate for the subject matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will probably accurately recognize colors individually in their original containers or applicators.  But once you mix your problem colors and apply them (particularly light colors), you will be subject to color confusion.  Without some mechanism to help differentiate applied colors, you have the risk of creating areas that look correct to you, but would look miscolored to non-color-blind people.  If you use a one-step process that lets you apply colors in essentially their final form, that would minimize this risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem will be in recognizing when and how colors are off (is it really a little too red or a little too green).  You may recognize that the color isn't right, but won't reliably be able to tell what the error is.  A tool that might help with that is a color analyzer.  You'll need a good white light source, a sensor or calibrated camera, and some software (or a non-color-blind partner who can look at it and tell you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The specialized glasses may help with some of these problems, but they can't accurately correct color perception for the problem colors (they work by filtering out some of these colors).  They will improve your experience of color and your ability to differentiate colors, but you won't perceive the problem colors the same as a non-color-blind person.  So what you create may look miscolored to them in areas with those colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you focus on art that involves a lot of use of your problem colors, it will be a challenge for you, which may diminish how rewarding you find it.  If you focus on art where those colors rarely come into play, color blindness could be largely irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T06:32:47.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10243" CreationDate="2021-05-10T09:11:08.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In german it can be called Wimmelbild. That's usually for kids, where they can find stuff, think you call it where's wally in english:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wimmelbild&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wimmelbild&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some discussion about the word:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dict.leo.org/forum/viewUnsolvedquery.php?idThread=706597&amp;amp;idForum=1&amp;amp;lang=de&amp;amp;lp=ende&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://dict.leo.org/forum/viewUnsolvedquery.php?idThread=706597&amp;amp;idForum=1&amp;amp;lang=de&amp;amp;lp=ende&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They call it &amp;quot;crowd scene&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;illustrated panorama&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11019" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T09:11:08.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11003" CreationDate="2021-05-10T18:07:12.257" Score="4" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can find a lot of recommendations for good nippers to use for plastic and resin miniatures (Tamiya, Godhands, DSPIAE and so on). However, when I look at their descriptions, they specifically say that in order not to dull them, you should not use them with metal miniatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what characteristics are needed for good nippers that can be safely used on metal minis and that will produce good results (i.e. minimum damage to the minis, and cuts as flush as possible)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11034" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-04T03:09:39.493" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T16:28:14.020" Title="How do I identify good nippers for metal minis?" Tags="|tool-selection|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10243" CreationDate="2021-05-10T18:41:59.167" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In English, I'd call it a &amp;quot;busy&amp;quot; image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11035" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T18:41:59.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2814" CreationDate="2021-05-11T17:47:47.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think of the process as more like  &amp;quot;conditioning or curing&amp;quot; a cast iron pan.  The whole idea here is to add a layer of burnt carbon.  Bacon Grease aka Lard is a wonderful oil. Any vegetable oil, corn, soy, canola, olive (has a lower burn temp). What the folks said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The acid etching does just that, removes the outer layer, but doesn't give your ferrous metal any protection. Rust will form almost instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrolysis is another fun process that will give a &amp;quot;dark iron&amp;quot; type look. It requires very few parts to complete the process. It is easy and very safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seal that with a lubricant.  Vegetable oils tend to get rancid. You just have to be conscious of that. Linseed oil is also a plant oil extraction! It can take weeks to DRY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're delving into the &amp;quot;black arts&amp;quot; that blacksmiths have used for thousands of years. It is a fun thing to learn.  If your item is high carbon steel or stainless, this process is more difficult.  Sainless not at all.  The electrolisis process is my preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T17:47:47.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10255" CreationDate="2021-05-12T19:52:55.020" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0TOX3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0TOX3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My art style&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hiya, I was browsing google looking for what my art style is called, and I came across this image, which I think describes my art style perfectly. So, I have to ask, what is the name of this art style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11058" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-05-12T19:59:33.843" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T20:21:56.383" Title="What's this art-style?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10254" CreationDate="2021-05-12T20:21:56.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt; Modern Cartoon Art Style&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are simple drawings that are common these days in TV caricatures, like The Simpsons, Avatar (not the blue guys), and those other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-05-12T20:21:56.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8653" CreationDate="2021-05-13T01:58:38.867" Score="1" Body="&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A finger guard&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finger guards should go along the trimmer's base. It's a safety feature that prevents your fingers from being chopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A Tension Spring&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prevents a guillotine paper cutter from acting like an actual guillotine. The tension spring is attached to the blade so it won't move by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A Blade Latch&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It holds the blade in place when you aren't using the paper guillotine. It's usually a wire that hooks over the handle. Sometimes, it's a piece of metal attached at the bottom of the handle. Now, you may ask: Why do I need this? This prevents the blade from popping up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Watch out for the size&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the thickness of the paper you'll be using. Bigger ones can usually cut through a 3-inch stack of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Portability&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider whether you're going to take it to other locations; if so, make sure it's appropriate for traveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;One tool that does both paper and mat board vs. two different cutters?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; I think that's opinion based, because it will cost more to buy two separate tools, but putting that aside:&#xA;- Economically [option 2 wins]&#xA;- The sharpness of the blade shouldn't be affected by cutting a mat board (maybe over time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt; I would recommend&lt;/strong&gt; (if you're going to use it often) &lt;strong&gt;to buy only one that does the cutting you're looking for... it has to be a high-quality cutter&lt;/strong&gt; (because I suppose you probably won't want to replace it every time something happens to it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.triumphcutter.com/blogs/news/what-to-look-for-when-shopping-for-a-paper-cutter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-05-13T14:07:32.680" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T14:07:32.680" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8142" CreationDate="2021-05-13T15:18:00.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any martensitic stainless ( all cutlery grades ) can be cooled / quenched in nitrogen gas. I presume it is gas and has significant circulation to speed cooling . The cutlery grades are all have very good hardenability and do not need rapid cooling. In my experience , nitrogen gas cooling would be very unusual ( not needed ) for martensitic stainless. It would be useful for quenching titanium ( type 5 , 6 Al , 4 V ). If you mean liquid nitrogen , no problem , probably . The very rapid cooling can cause cracking of complicated shapes. Various claims are made of the advantages of cryogenic cooling, some are true . But the possible advantages would not show up in a personal knife; they would show up in an industrial application cutting many tons of material per day.    HOWEVER , heating / austneitizing in a nitrogen atmosphere can be dangerous. Nitrogen can be absorbed into the metal and  stabilize the austenite phase producing a soft surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T15:18:00.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10232" CreationDate="2021-05-14T02:23:38.663" Score="0" Body="&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;looking for quality materials?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to canopy top materials there are three main options;&lt;strong&gt; polyester, polyethylene, and vinyl...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optional:&lt;/strong&gt; You need to consider things like durability, water resistance, &lt;strong&gt;UV protection,&lt;/strong&gt; and *fire resistance* in order to make sure that you are getting the right cover for what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polyester&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h3&gt; is the most commonly used material in instant canopies because it is durable and water-resistant. Remember to check the denier of the fabric, the thicker the material the tougher it will be. &lt;strong&gt;This material will provide UV protection but it will be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Polyethylene&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA; &lt;p&gt;  &#xA;  &lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is going to be the most common material in carports and other semi-permanent structures. This is because the material is UV resistant...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;   &lt;h3&gt;&#xA;   &lt;strong&gt;Vinyl&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;   &lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;Vinyl canopy tops are actually polyester fabric with a vinyl coating. The coating makes the top UV resistant, waterproof, and most are flame retardant. Vinyl tops can be very heavy, which is the true downfall of a vinyl canopy top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt; color matters&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;Once you finish deciding the material selecting the color comes next. The lighter-colored tops are often the most favored because they will not absorb heat, keeping you cooler underneath. The light canopy tops however will get stains due to the dirtiness of the environment. &#xA;[Source][1]&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T02:23:38.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10115" CreationDate="2021-05-14T03:04:41.257" Score="2" Body="&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Elastomeric paint&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; And the asnwer you are looking for...&#xA;&lt;h3&gt; Acrylic Paint &lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;Acrylic paint is indeed very elastic, as the comment section points out: It prevents cracking from occurring.&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Options&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There arent really 'other options that doesn't contain acrylic based paints... one of them is called: &lt;strong&gt;Urethane&lt;/strong&gt;, this bad boy is basically modified acrylic paint.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;h2&gt;Elastomeric paint&lt;/h2&gt;&lt;h3&gt; Would be your final answer&lt;/h3&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T03:04:41.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9013" CreationDate="2021-05-14T03:22:01.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight bags/pattern weights&lt;/strong&gt; as pkamb and Elmy said in the commments, or simply &lt;strong&gt;paper weights&lt;/strong&gt;, potentially with additional qualifier terms for the material or other characteristics, as rebusB suggested.  Also, I searched the phrase &amp;quot;paperweights to hold down art&amp;quot; and the ones you're looking for are there.  There is a wide range of variations available, or you can make them yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-10-27T20:56:28.290" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T20:56:28.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3313" CreationDate="2021-05-14T19:37:25.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flour and water, combine so it is thin enough to brush on the paper, but not so thin that it soaks the paper. Work quickly and allow to dry before touching the paper or it will shift on the glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11066" LastActivityDate="2021-05-14T19:37:25.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2990" CreationDate="2021-05-16T17:24:06.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About a quarter to a third of the pastel colours visibly change when exposed to natural light for a period of several months.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Among pastels (of any brand), &lt;strong&gt;reds and pinks seem to suffer the most from light&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In reaction to a test (referenced in this answer), NuPastel removed the 17 least lightfast colours from their product range somewhere in or before 2019.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No official lightfastness testing has been carried out by NuPastel, since they're (still) not legally obliged to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Back in 2013, a 90 day light-fastness test of 95 specimens of NuPastels was performed by Rick Petersen, and the results were posted on &lt;a href=&quot;https://rickpetersenspaintingaday.blogspot.com/2013/04/nupastel-light-fast-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;his blog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petersen placed a sheet with streaks of the 95 different colours in a south-facing window (from January to April, in what I think is Florida, U.S.A.), meaning they received a lot of direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results were judged by eye after 90 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The colours that showed the most change (&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;significant change in hue and value&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;) were Pale Vermillion, Salmon Pink, Orchid Pink, and Old Lilac; the outlier being Madder Pink which seems to have almost completely faded.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Orange, Maroon, Burnt Orange, Carmine, Rose Pink, Carnival Red, and Flamingo also didn't fare well, showing &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;slight change in hue and value&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;No changes&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; were observed in most ochres and other earth tones, the greens, browns, and yellows, however.&lt;/strong&gt; This is likely due to them containing iron hydroxides, which &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;are the most stable lightfast materials in any media&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://makingamark.blogspot.com/2010/08/lightfastness-standard-for-pastels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;66 of the 95 colours passed this 3-month test without visible changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://colleenwampole.com/2015/09/06/lightfastness-tests/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another test&lt;/a&gt; of the PrismaColors NuPastels was performed by Colleen Wampole in 2015, over a period of six months. Her conclusion was as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some colors&lt;/strong&gt; within the Prismacolor Nupastel line &lt;strong&gt;faded dramatically during this six-month period&lt;/strong&gt;. This was expected, since this lightfastness test was inspired by my observations of these pastels fading within the store at which I work. Pastels have a reputation for being fugitive, and this line of pastels was no exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The colors which faded the most were: B[urnt] Orange, Deep Orange, Madder Pink, Salmon Pink, Pale Vermilion, Scarlet, Persian Rose, Orchid, Eden Green, Carnival Pink, Orchid Pink, Rose Pink, Crimson, Old Lilac, Maroon, Pistachio Green, and Neptune Green.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed &lt;strong&gt;slight fading in the following colors: Light Naples Hue, Chrome Yellow, Burgundy, Light Sap Green, Carmine Madder, Flamingo, and Carmine Red.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The results can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctej1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (unfortunately these photos there are of very low quality).&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;71 of the 95 colours stood this 6-month test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's interesting to see how a bunch of these colours overlaps with Petersen's results, but others acted completely differently: Eden Green, Pistachio Green, and Neptune Green, specifically. Do these react differently to other environmental conditions, or is their reaction to UV non-linear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Comments posted by customers who bought the NuPastels and left a review, support these findings or speak of similar conclusions.  &#xA;Even though there are relatively few users mentioning the light-fastness, do note how most of these comments are based on hear-say or personal tests of which the results are inaccessible.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A 2-star rating on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/prismacolor-nupastel-color-sticks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DickBlick&lt;/a&gt; mentions &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;I have done my own tests and have found that the majority of the Nupastel colors fade. I encourage anyone who doubts this to do their own tests and see for themselves&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A 3-star review tells how &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;the company has told [the user] they do no testing on their pastels for lightfastness as it's not required&lt;/em&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/rembrandt-pastels-getting-no-respect/page/3/#post-1167966&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WetCanvas&lt;/a&gt; user PeggyB opines &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Are they using NuPastels as their “underlayer”? Now there is a brand I’d question the quality of! There are way too many of them that are known to be not lightfast.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More interestingly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In 2019, a customer review on Amazon mentions how, based on Petersen's test referred to above, &lt;strong&gt;they &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;removed the 17 colors in the 2-5 categories&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while this reflects badly on PrismaColor NuPastels, the problematic lightfastness of certain colours is not unique to specific brands. Disappointing as it is, a lack of lightfastness testing also seems to be the norm.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Someone on WetCanvas states the following in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/pastel-lightfastness/page/2/#post-891416&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I’ve come across Jackson’s house brand of soft pastels. They have the pigments listed and lightfast ratings for each stick. Though I’ve been confused and wonder if there are mistakes in the information they have listed. They’re listed as Excellent, Good or Fair, similar to their watercolor and gouache ratings. I understand what that means at least in the water media, and am not sure if it is the same for pastels, though I would imagine so. I haven’t gone through every color for their pastels, but &lt;strong&gt;so many of the pinks, lilac, violets, Carmine’s, magenta’s are considered fair, which at least for watercolors means not lightfast enough I would use it for any serious works&lt;/strong&gt;. I understand these are always the problem colors in terms of lightfastness.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lightfastness test of almost 5 years of Charvin Paris pastel sticks &lt;a href=&quot;https://hudsonvalleysketches.blogspot.com/2019/12/lightfastness-tests-charvin-water.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; shows a remarkably similar result. In her summary, Jamie Williams Grossman writes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that &lt;strong&gt;the earth colors and grays did not change&lt;/strong&gt;. [..] The yellow ochre is beautiful, and held up perfectly.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Only one blue showed significant change, in spite of the fact that most of the blues are rated only &amp;quot;***Good.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Three of the greens I felt did well enough to hang onto. The others either lost much or all of their yellow component, or in one case lost blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now for the really bad news. All of the pinks, reds and violets have got to go.&lt;/strong&gt; The only bright yellow in the set is also completely fugitive, and nearly disappeared like a magic trick. (I'm sure it would be gone completely if left a few more years in the window!) Most of the yellow tints also faded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results can be seen here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CdCM8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;yellows&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQNuz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reds and pinks&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9875.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;greens&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gyas1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;greys&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PntST.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;browns&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0sW83.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blues&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the findings and conclusions mentioned here are repeated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stepbystepart.co.uk/prismacolor-nupastels--reviewing-prismacolors-hard-pastel-range.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting read is the following comment written by Michael Skalka, chairman of the subcommittee of the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) D01.57, Artists' Materials, in reply to Katherine Tyrrell, which was published on &lt;a href=&quot;https://makingamark.blogspot.com/2010/08/lightfastness-standard-for-pastels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the latter's website&lt;/a&gt;. She had contacted him after making the claim in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=649931&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a WetCanvas thread&lt;/a&gt; that no ASTM standard exists for pastel lightfastness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;No lightfastness standard from ASTM exists yet. Manufacturers, not consumers, have been the driving force behind getting oil paints, watercolors, gouache, acrylics to have lightfastness standards. Standards create a level playing field and that brings out the best from all concerned. Companies that can’t conform stand out when a standard can be used as a yardstick to determine overall quality.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nobody has the edge on lightfastness for pastels yet because no standard exists. You can argue that some manufacturers knowingly put fugitive materials in pastels but without them conducting a well -formulated testing protocol, they cannot know if the colors they use are lightfast. So for right now ignorance by the manufacturers is bliss.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* I've uploaded the images of the specific tests on Imgur for longevity's sake. The credits and rights of these are for their specific authors, of course.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:32:13.733" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:32:13.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10269" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-16T19:40:13.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quilting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quilting is the term given to the process of joining a minimum of three layers of fabric together either through stitching manually by hand using a needle and thread, or mechanically with a sewing machine or specialised longarm quilting system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sewing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sewing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pattern-drafting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pattern-drafting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pattern-drafting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T19:40:13.977" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T19:40:13.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10270" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-16T19:40:13.977" Score="0" Body="Quilting is the process of joining a minimum of three layers of fabric or other materials together. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T19:40:13.977" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T19:40:13.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10271" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-16T19:43:59.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-stitch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross-stitch is a form of sewing and a popular form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches in a tiled, raster-like pattern are used to form a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sewing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sewing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/embroidery&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;embroidery&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;embroidery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T19:43:59.270" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T19:43:59.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10272" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-16T19:43:59.270" Score="0" Body="Cross-stitch is a form of sewing and counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches in a tiled, raster-like pattern are used to form a picture. Use this tag if your question is about techniques, materials, or patterns involved with cross stitching, or starting or finishing a cross-stitch project." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T19:43:59.270" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T19:43:59.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10273" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:01:46.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concrete is a composite material composed of fine and coarse aggregate bonded together with a fluid cement (cement paste) that hardens (cures) over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;its Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sculpting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sculpting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/grout&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;grout&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;grout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/clay&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;clay&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;clay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/maintenance&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;maintenance&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;maintenance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mold-making&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mold-making&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;mold-making&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:01:46.340" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:01:46.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10274" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:01:46.340" Score="0" Body="For questions about the use, properties, preparation, mixing, protection, maintenance, curing, and other aspects of any type of concrete." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:01:46.340" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:01:46.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10275" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:18:55.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gold-leaf&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;gold-leaf&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gold-leaf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:18:55.887" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:18:55.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10276" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:18:55.887" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding any kind of foil." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:18:55.887" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:18:55.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10277" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:27:14.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gold-leaf&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;gold-leaf&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gold-leaf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/foil&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;foil&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;foil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/jewelry&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;jewelry&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;jewelry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:27:14.823" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:27:14.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10278" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:27:14.823" Score="0" Body="For questions concerning the process of gilding, and the tools and materials involved. Gilding is used to give other materials a gold-like appearance, and may include imitation gold and other metals." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:27:14.823" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:27:14.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10279" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:27:28.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gilding&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;gilding&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gilding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/foil&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;foil&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;foil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:27:28.673" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:27:28.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10280" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:27:28.673" Score="0" Body="Gold leaf is an ultra-fine, thin, delicate layer of beaten gold, often used for gilding. Use this tag for questions concerning its use. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:27:28.673" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:27:28.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10281" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:30:23.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stained_glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/glass&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;glass&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;glass&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:30:23.460" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:30:23.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10282" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-05-16T20:30:23.460" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for projects involving the colouring of glass, or repairing or preserving stained glass objects." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T20:30:23.460" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T20:30:23.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10195" CreationDate="2021-05-16T22:26:49.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also acrylic based gouache available, which will not lift after it has dried. You can use the acrylic gouache as an underpainting that way without it lifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11080" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-17T08:42:21.880" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T08:42:21.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10129" CreationDate="2021-05-16T22:38:45.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can buy what is known as workable fixative to apply to your work as the tooth in the paper lessens. it actually restores some tooth so you can continue to draw on top of the fixative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11080" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T22:38:45.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10290" CreationDate="2021-05-17T14:49:03.933" Score="3" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experimenting with making paraffin candles that can be dripped on skin for use in BDSM. I already know about the different waxes and the logistics of casting wax candles, but I have been finding some conflicting information about some of the additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is Vybar or its clones likely to cause some kind of skin irritation? Not talking about burns or allergies as these are issues that users are aware of.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does Vybar or its clones raise the melting point of the wax or not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does stearin / stearic acid corrode a silicon mould or not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the increased opacity from Vybar or stearin affect the colour saturation of wax dyes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11086" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-05-17T16:42:35.900" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T18:09:02.370" Title="Information regarding skin friendly wax candle additives" Tags="|safety|wax|silicone-mold|candle-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-18T12:03:49.173" Score="2" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don’t know anything about embroidery, but would really like to start applying embroidery detail onto my crochet afghans. I have some questions as to what would make this most effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What crochet stitch would work best if I’d want to embroider on it? Hook and yarn size would be good to know too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it then possible to apply embroidery onto the yarn? What equipment would I need to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have here a picture of the type of embroidery I would like to do on the afghan. Also, some kind of lettering would be a nice addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqXO9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqXO9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10777" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T09:00:04.847" Title="Embroidery on crochet afghan" Tags="|crocheting|embroidery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10291" CreationDate="2021-05-18T13:45:08.513" Score="4" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, synthetic brushes are considered horrible for their water holding capacity as compared to natural hair brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if I have to choose best out of the worst - how do I do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do all synthetic brushes have horrible water holding capacity or there are some exceptions?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;What should I look for in labels or anything else before purchasing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2021-05-19T04:49:13.383" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T23:58:07.790" Title="How to choose a synthetic brush for water colors?" Tags="|watercolor|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10286" CreationDate="2021-05-18T14:06:58.500" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware for BDSM purposes you want to get the melting point low enough to not burn the skin, but high enough for the recipient to have intense sensations.&#xA;Paraffin and soy wax are common choices because their melting points (46 - 68 °C / 115 - 154 °F) are already lower than that of other kinds of wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skin irritation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stearic_acid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stearic acid is used in many cosmetics&lt;/a&gt;, so the risk is very low.&#xA;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2302/9515/files/vybar-260-sds-info.pdf?6307401901965073325&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Safety Data Sheet&lt;/a&gt; of Vybar contains no indication that it can irritate the skin (apart from the obvious risk of burns). If you're interested in other additives, explicitely search for the Safety Data Sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both substances are mainly used to increase how much fragrant oil the wax can retein. It's those &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aromaweb.com/articles/essential-oils-that-cause-irritation-sensitization.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;essential oils that often irritate the skin&lt;/a&gt;, not the additive itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Corrosion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen several sites that claim that Stearin / stearic acid does corrode &amp;quot;flexible molds&amp;quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.howtomakecandles.info/article/2037/candle_molds_flexible_molds_rubber_silicone_and_latex&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;). However, the term &amp;quot;flexible molds&amp;quot; means silicone, rubber, plastic and latex. It's true that latex moulds are vulnerable to stearic acid (&lt;a href=&quot;https://dalchem.com.au/how-to/how-to-cast-latex-moulds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;), but they won't dissolve over night. The corrosion would take several casts and progress slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people probably misunderstood that or remembered incorrectly and started claiming that stearin corrodes silicone molds as well. But &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silicone for mold making&lt;/a&gt; is rather resistant to most chemicals, including acids. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.candlecraft.info/FAQ/Pouring_candles/pouring_candles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; claims that stearin corrodes metal molds (which makes sense to me from a chemical perspective) and advises to use silicone molds instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coloration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both stearin and Vybar increase the opacity of the candle (you need to add less color to reach the same saturation). But they create different looks in candles: while Vybar reduces mottling, stearin increases it (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftserver.com/topic/10763-stericvybar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly don't have practical experience with these and cannot help you any more. Hopefully a user with practical experience will share those with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Melting point&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where it gets complicated and contradictory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pure paraffin wax melts at about 46 - 68 °C / 115 - 154 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pure stearin melts at 60 - 70 °C / 140 - 158 °F. &lt;a href=&quot;http://shamrockaffiliations.ws/Stearin.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; claims that adding stearin to paraffin candles rises the melting point even to 80°C / 176°F. It also makes the candles burn slower and drip less (something you may not want).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 types of Vybar: Vybar 103 intended for hard wax and Vybar 260 intended for container candles and softer wax (like paraffin). Both increase the melting point of the wax (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.naturesgardencandles.com/blog/tag/what-is-vybar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;), but I couldn't find any objective numbers. I &lt;em&gt;assume&lt;/em&gt; that Vybar 103 increases the melting point more than the 260, but I have no proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both additives mainly increase the amount of fragrant oil the candle wax can retain, but they also increase the melting point and seem to make the wax harder and drip less. Certain fragrant oils can irritate the skin and cause allergic contact dermatitis. I would probably forego the additive and light additional scented candles instead of scenting the &amp;quot;active&amp;quot; dripping candles too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-05-18T18:09:02.370" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T18:09:02.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10289" CreationDate="2021-05-18T16:56:59.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it goes without saying that softer paints need softer bristles. In my personal experience, the best brush for water colors looks a lot like a calligraphy brush (just a bit smaller). You should look for &lt;strong&gt;thick brush heads, long bristles and a pointy tip&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thick brush heads means that there are a lot of bristles in it. More bristles means more tiny spaces between them where water can be stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long bristles can also store slightly more water than short ones. They also tend to move more fluidly and have a softer stroke. It's hard to explain, but I had better experiences with long bristled brushed for soft paints like water color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pointy tip means that the bristles in the center are even longer than at the perimeter. Those longer center bristles are the ones you want to actually paint with. The ones around the perimeter are mainly there to store water or ink and to keep the center bristles in shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAEsI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAEsI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you see that only a small number of bristles actually touch the paper and write. Yet traditional calligraphy brushes have these thick brush heads to retain ink and their shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same can be applied to synthetic watercolor brushes. On the largest brush you can clearly see the shorter bristles surrounding the longer ones at the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/We95s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/We95s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for labels, most manufacturers I know simply label them as &amp;quot;watercolor&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;aquarelle&amp;quot; brushes. I would buy one medium size and one big size and don't bother with small sizes too much. Since they should all end in a fine point, a medium brush should be just as precise as a small one and the small one is just worse at retaining water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture above, I'd chose number 8 for medium size and 14 or 16 for big size. Number 6 has visibly shorter bristles than 8 and even number 0 and 2 don't have a finer tip than 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T16:56:59.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10288" CreationDate="2021-05-19T09:00:04.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a few thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Embroidery is usually done on a plain canvas. If the background has too much of a pattern, the embroidery will simply fade into the background. You'll want a very plain and even crochet stitch for the afghan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use unicolor yarn for the afghan or the embroidery might fade into the background.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you'd like the afghan to have more of a pattern (like granny squares), insert a patch of very plain stitches where the embroidery is going to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Embroidery is not stretchy at all. You'll want a crocheted background that is not stretchy as well. Look for &amp;quot;opaque&amp;quot; crochet patterns for some inspiration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget to crochet some test swathes to see how a pattern turns out and if you like it. This is also the best way to assess the stretchyness of the pattern and to compare different patterns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yarn size depends on your personal preference and the hook size depends on the yarn size and how tight you want to crochet the pattern. As a rule of thumb, thicker yarn means you crochet faster, but very loosely spun yarn can rip and tear faster once the afghan is finished and in use (this is especially important if you have kids or pets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Embroidery is also a very broad topic... there are so many techniques that are all called &amp;quot;embroidery&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a yarn that has a contrasting color to the afghan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The yarn should be at least as thick as the one you used for the afghan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To make the embroidery more obvious, you could embroider with 2 strings of yarn at the same time. That makes the lines thicker without doubling the number of stitches you have to do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The example in your question is not done 100% with yarn alone, it has patches of (what looks like) felt stitched onto the canvas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T09:00:04.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10294" CreationDate="2021-05-19T17:53:26.063" Score="4" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started using my mom's sewing machine for the first time a Silvercrest SNM 33 B1 sewing machine, but the thread on it keeps snapping.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Why does this happen? Is it my needle's fault or are the threads bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="1043" LastEditDate="2021-05-21T16:55:12.850" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T20:02:05.090" Title="Why does the thread keep snapping on my Silvercrest sewing machine?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10293" CreationDate="2021-05-19T18:55:14.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many sewing machine issues can be resolved by simply removing the thread and re-threading it. Your machine's manual should have a diagram showing how to insert the thread. Even if you're sure you already know how to thread the machine, find that diagram and follow it step by step. You may find that you've been missing a step, or putting the thread in the wrong place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't figure out what the issue was, sometimes re-threading will solve it anyway. The thread may have been getting snagged or dragging somewhere along its path, and by re-threading it, you may fix that issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you feed the thread, watch for any places that seem rough, or slots that seem tight. Manually pull the thread back and forth through each slot and around each turn, checking to see if it snags or tugs anywhere. It should pull smoothly through/around each point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.sewingguide.de/product-overview/silvercrest-snm33b1/faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;troubleshooting guide for the Silvercrest SNM 33 B1 machine&lt;/a&gt;. It basically says what I mentioned above, but it has diagrams for how to re-thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the bobbin is inserted in the correct orientation, as you can see in this snipped from the troubleshooting guide. My machine (which is a different brand) will work when the bobbin is in the wrong way, but the thread snags and snarls much more frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7I028.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7I028.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check to make sure your needle is not bent, blunt, or damaged. If you can't tell, swap in a fresh needle just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastEditorUserId="8690" LastEditDate="2021-05-21T20:02:05.090" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T20:02:05.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10293" CreationDate="2021-05-20T12:19:53.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be the threads fault. I've had similar problems very recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sewed some seams with new synthetic thread and never had a problem. Then I switched colors and grabbed a random spool from my moms stash and the thread snapped several times. It was a spool of cotton thread that was at least 20 years old and the thread was slightly thicker (I had more problems getting it through the needle). I still don't know where exactly the thread snags, but switching between both colors several times confirmed that only the old cotton thread had this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the bobbin isn't inserted correctly. I had that problem when I just started sewing on a machine and didn't notice that the bobbin of my machine jams sometimes. Most of the time it pulled long loops (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/1839/6316&quot;&gt;as seen here&lt;/a&gt;), but sometimes the upper thread snagged &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt; in the bobbin compartment and snapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T12:19:53.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10297" CreationDate="2021-05-20T15:35:52.923" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old quartz clock mechanism and I want to use it in a custom clock body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can easily calculate and place the 12, 3, 6, and 9 positions, but how I can calculate the other positions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-07-31T19:20:26.713" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T19:20:26.713" Title="How I can calculate the hand position on a clock background?" Tags="|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10296" CreationDate="2021-05-20T17:21:43.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a compass, the drawing kind, not the magnetic kind, you can create the intermediate locations for the hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/2Vshz0kqZh4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/2Vshz0kqZh4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video above shows the process, but I was skeptical until I realized that it's a collection of overlapping equilateral triangles. Equilateral triangles have 60° in each vertex. You want to segment the 90° of the currently created locations (12, 3, 6, 9) into three pieces, 30° each. 90° - 60° = 30°&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you create an equilateral triangle with the base on the 3:00 line, for example, the 60° line of the triangle becomes the 1:00 position. If the triangle is created with the base on the 12:00 line, the triangle provides the 2:00 position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T17:21:43.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="304" CreationDate="2021-05-20T19:14:49.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me having the angle helps with fatigue and body aches after I’m finished working on a piece. I often get zoned in and lose time when I’m drawing, sometimes I sit at my desk and put on music and the first time I look at the clock it might be 12-13 hours I’ve been fixated on an idea, or 12 hours simply trying to make a hand look realistic haha. My Girlfriend finally got me into a routine where I have to have at least 6 bottles of water before I sit down, and I have to have my phone set to give an alarm every 2 hours so I can stand up and stretch. You never realize the toll it takes on you physically until your back is spasming for two days and you’re so dehydrated that you shed half the skin off your lips ugh. I also have had ADD since I was a kid so I’ll usually take my Adderall before I start drawing and that only compounds the hyper focusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that was an ADD rant for you, sorry haha. Yes, the architect drafting table helps your bones when you’re not slouched over for hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11120" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T19:14:49.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10305" CreationDate="2021-05-21T14:57:34.673" Score="3" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/Doms-Poster-Colours-14-Shades/dp/B079ZZ5W8T&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;poster colors&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnVb4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnVb4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have posted this link since they may have some other technical name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have to use them on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B08LBST6V2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this type of canvas&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/utEpM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/utEpM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Product Highlight reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made of 5 Oz Cotton Fabric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is highly suitable for poster colors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acid Free, 100% Cotton, Double White Primed with Acrylic Titanium, Anti Fungus (Fungus Resistant)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Considering that they are not acrylic paints, how may I get the best out of them while painting on that canvas?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-01T21:45:11.703" LastActivityDate="2021-08-01T21:45:11.703" Title="How to get the best out of painting with poster colors on canvas?" Tags="|painting|watercolor|canvas|gouache|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10303" CreationDate="2021-05-21T15:32:46.117" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are their use cases?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fan shaped brush:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ve0t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ve0t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finger shaped brush:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T8P9V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T8P9V.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-21T16:43:40.510" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T16:32:35.313" Title="What are the uses of fan shaped brushes and finger shaped brushes?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10302" CreationDate="2021-05-21T16:13:01.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The fan-shaped brush is perfect for blending&lt;/strong&gt; oil paints. I use it to either blur fresh paint (be it an area or a detail) into the background, or to create a smooth gradient between paints.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When painting with very fatty paints, or simply a lot of paint, this brush will lose its efficiency, as it is too thin and fine to manipulate, accumulate, or contain much paint.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have no experience using this with acrylic paints, but can imagine it will work similarly, when using little and diluted acrylics.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;With this brush it is especially important to clean it regularly, as it loses this functionality whenever there is the slightest irregularity (leaving obvious marks in the paint surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the comb, rake, or fingered brush I have a slightly similar experience: it can be used to blend areas or details while maintaining a certain amount texture (resulting in a 'broken' gradient, if you will).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's also an obvious contender &lt;strong&gt;for painting details&lt;/strong&gt; like vegetation (grass, reeds, branches, &amp;amp;c.) and hairs, as it naturally leaves lines.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It can also be used &lt;strong&gt;for graining or painting imitation wood&lt;/strong&gt; (although those brushes are usually larger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T16:13:01.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10306" CreationDate="2021-05-21T17:17:41.803" Score="0" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of buying new needles for my Silvercrest SNM 33 B1 sewing machine, but I do not know whether sewing machine needle have a specific compatibility with specific a sewing machine manufacturers or have a universal one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wonder what characteristics should I know when I look for replacement needles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T19:12:12.220" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T19:12:12.220" Title="What should I look for when I look for sewing machine needles?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10300" CreationDate="2021-05-21T18:31:55.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poster colors are water-soluble and can be reactivated. They are also relatively opaque, compared to other watercolours. But even though this type of paint might seem suitable for glazing and layering, you have to be careful when doing so, since the new colour can easily mix with the underlying one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like gouache and watercolours, working with poster colours on rougher types of canvas (yours is &amp;quot;medium grain&amp;quot;) will cause the grain to stand out as the pigment particles will condense in the deeper parts of the texture.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I don't think there is a way to prevent this, but you can dab or smudge the surface of larger areas slightly before the paint has completely dried and settled, especially if and when you're blocking in your composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The trick is to work quickly and use little water.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note: depending on the manufacturer (and, if one looks at translations, on country/culture) poster colours may or may not be synonymous to gouache. They are very similar, in any case, and you can use that term to find more and specific information online, if you want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T18:31:55.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10304" CreationDate="2021-05-21T19:53:31.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Home sewing machines use the same style of needle. Any store that sells sewing supplies for home crafters (as opposed to manufacturers) should have that type of sewing machine needles, and only that type. If they have multiple brands of sewing machine needle, any brand should work, and the choice is merely one of brand preference. The part that fits into the machine is round with one flat side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needles are chosen based on what type of fabric you plant to sew, not based on the machine brand. If you plan to sew normal garment fabrics, get universal needles. You'll need specialized needles for certain types of fabric: stretchy knit fabrics, thick and tough fabrics like denim or upholstery fabric, leather, or for quilting. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sewessential.co.uk/blog/how-to-choose-the-right-sewing-machine-needle/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic &amp;quot;choose the right type of needle&amp;quot; guide&lt;/a&gt; for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's a good idea to consult your machine's user manual to make sure your machine doesn't have unique requirements. If you don't have the user manual, you should make your next project finding a replacement copy. Most sewing machine manuals are available somewhere on the internet for download, although be sure your virus protection software is up to date before downloading anything. Or you may be able to find a physical copy for sale. Once you have a manual, treat it like an essential part of the machine, and always keep it with your sewing machine so it doesn't get lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.sewingguide.de/product-overview/silvercrest-snm33b1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; seems to be the official site for the Lidl Silvercrest brand sewing machine, and it has manuals you can download, as well as some maintenance and troubleshooting information you can view without downloading anything. Based on a few of the diagrams I could see, it does appear that this brand uses the normal home sewing machine needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2021-05-21T19:53:31.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10310" CreationDate="2021-05-22T16:10:18.240" Score="3" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of making, as a gift, a custom pencil skirt with a false cut.  I make a rough sketch in order to figure out the appearance of the skirt  (the upper part of the image is how will look in front, and the bottom is how it will look on the side):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFA2K.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFA2K.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rough Sketch of a skirt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering whether it is feasible to hand-sew it instead of using a sewing machine (I assume doing so will take time). The skirt will have a side slit in both sides with some navy-style stripe fabric that covers it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the fabric, I was thinking denim and a light one for the side slits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T19:43:41.380" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T19:43:41.380" Title="Is it a good idea to hand sew a denim pencil skirt with false cuts instead of using sewing machine?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-22T16:22:35.287" Score="2" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning the materials I need for the skirt mentioned in my question &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/10307/1043&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It is a pencil skirt with false cuts and I want to order the appropriate amount of fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I do not know how I can calculate how much fabric I need. Do you have an idea how I can calculate the right amount of fabric I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-23T18:24:16.113" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T18:24:16.113" Title="How I can calculate how much fabric I need to buy?" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10302" CreationDate="2021-05-22T16:32:35.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fan brush is also very useful to paint lots of fine texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob Ross often used a fan brush to paint &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/3u22DDYh34k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bushes or foliage on trees&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/imwtPqjmJo0?t=713&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;waterfalls&lt;/a&gt;. You can use the same technique to paint either a rough texture of numerous tiny dots (like distant grass, leaves, rock, sea foam) or a smooth texture of fine, parallel lines (like hair, fur, water, grass and others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the technique to work the bristles must be hard enough to hold their fan shape even when they're wet with paint and water. If the bristles clump together once they're wet, you get a much bigger texture that resembles that of the comb brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comb brush achieves similar effects (several parallel lines with a single stroke), but not as fine as the fan brush. It's useful for grass, fur, hair or woodgrain textures that are in the foreground of the painting and therefore more detailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T16:32:35.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10307" CreationDate="2021-05-22T16:52:06.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything you can sew on a machine, you can also sew by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will take much longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the seam is visible you must take special care to sew evenly or it will look ugly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's harder to sew a straight line if you don't mark it on the fabric. (There are special markers that disappear when heated for that reason).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it a good idea?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the whole skirt: not really. That would make the whole process take much, &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more time. If you like hand sewing as a meditative hobby, go for it. If you want to get things done on time, use a machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For details like button holes or the insert in the side seam: sure, why not. I've hand sewn a lot of gussets and pockets and complicated seams simply because I didn't know how to wrangle them under the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For seams that have to withstand a lot of strain, a hand sewn back stitch is even better and sturdier than a straight machine stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T16:52:06.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10315" CreationDate="2021-05-22T17:07:40.307" Score="3" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of making a skirt as a birthday gift for my sister. Therefore taking measurements seems kinda impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it recommended to use size charts in order to make the pattern instead, such as this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brandsgalaxy.gr/ProductCatalogue/SizeChart.aspx?chart=0c41fabb-d9b1-419a-b750-21d5a1c8c63e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.brandsgalaxy.gr/ProductCatalogue/SizeChart.aspx?chart=0c41fabb-d9b1-419a-b750-21d5a1c8c63e&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or even the US standard clothing size:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._standard_clothing_size&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._standard_clothing_size&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T20:27:39.027" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T20:27:39.027" Title="How I can design a skirt pattern without taking measurements?" Tags="|sewing|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8471" CreationDate="2021-05-22T17:36:30.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd not advise mixing acrylic colors into resin. However, there are artist who circumvent this and produce great art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should rather apply your acrylic paints on the surface and let it dry before pouring your aptly tinted resin on top of the painted layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11135" LastEditorUserId="11135" LastEditDate="2022-11-29T05:19:47.120" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T05:19:47.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10311" CreationDate="2021-05-22T17:43:22.363" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot trust those chart sizes because of a phenomenon called &amp;quot;vanity sizing&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once upon a time women's clothes where all tailored to fit the individual person or altered (if bought second hand). When industrial mass production set in, manufacturers wrote a measurement into the garment to make it easier to find one that fits. That number was usually the hip measurement for skirts or the bust measurement for jackets and dresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time women became conscious and self-conscious about their sizes. Small numbers were fashionable and big numbers meant you were chubby. So manufacturers started writing wrong numbers into their garments, because they actually sold more if their customers where happily surprised to still fit into a size S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even today those sizes are just a recommendation and different manufacturers use different measurements for the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a skirt or pair of trousers in your sisters wardrobe that fit her well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neither the fabric nor the waist seam must be stretchy, or you get wrong numbers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible, make a friend wear this item while you measure around the waist (smallest part) and the hip (widest part) and the desired length (traditionally to the top of the knee).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that's impossible, lay the item flat on a table and measure the waist seam. Then look at your table of common sizes and find the corresponding hip measurement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you cannot find any suitable garment to take measurements, try to find a belt that she usually wears. Measure from the tip of the needle to the hole that is most worn out. You need a little extra length (2 cm) because belts are usually worn very tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="8690" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T17:57:25.573" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T17:57:25.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10317" CreationDate="2021-05-22T18:06:01.813" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I came up with some ideas for clothes as gifts. But instead of making them full size and potentially wasting money, I thought of making some prototypes first as a means of displaying them and getting feedback whether the recipient likes them or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would using some doll prototype holder first such as:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/itm/223606337908?hash=item340ff9f174:g:ngMAAOSw3ZhdQVVG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ebay.com/itm/223606337908?hash=item340ff9f174:g:ngMAAOSw3ZhdQVVG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is making miniaturized versions of the clothes first a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T20:10:20.877" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T13:12:34.367" Title="How I can protype clothes without making them fullsize?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10311" CreationDate="2021-05-22T18:37:47.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few suggestions to add to Elmy's excellent answer. In case you can only get a rough estimate of your sister's measurements, it will help if you choose a pattern that has some flexibility in terms of sizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most extreme example of free-sizing is a wrap skirt. You can make a wrap skirt for someone with only a rough estimate of their waist and hip size. As an added bonus if you're a beginner sewer, wrap skirts are very simple to make. You can make them with all straight seams, which are much easier to sew that curved ones. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://lizhaywood.com.au/free-pattern-wraparound-skirt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a link to a tutorial&lt;/a&gt;. Make sure there is plenty of room for overlap in the front, otherwise the panels will slide open while she walks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rnbml.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rnbml.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://lizhaywood.com.au/free-pattern-3-gore-wrap-maxi-skirt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slightly less flexible option is a skirt with a gathered waistband with elastic all the way around. I recommend adding a drawstring as well, otherwise the entire skirt can be easily pulled down if the hem gets caught on something. A tiered peasant skirt is one style that works well with an elastic waistband. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20060822234522/http:/www.jcarolinecreative.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=JC&amp;amp;Screen=PSKIRT&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a link to a tutorial&lt;/a&gt;. A downside is that this is not the most flattering style. It works best with very lightweight fabric; the thicker the fabric, the more bulky the waistband will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DkB8U.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DkB8U.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more fitted and flattering option is a mostly-fitted skirt, with a small amount of elastic in the back of the waistband. That way the gathered fabric (which is the least flattering part of the waistband) is hidden in the small of the back, where it creates some extra room for the bottom, and in front you have a smoother, more flattering waist. One of my all-time favorite skirts uses this method. It's fits nice and snug, but it also stretches a bit so it's comfortable when I sit. Basically you just make a skirt with a larger waistband than necessary, and sew a piece of elastic across the back of the waistband. If your skirt pattern has a stiff waistband reinforced with interfacing, you may want to eliminate the interfacing on the back of the waistband. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://sewguide.com/how-to-sew-skirt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial&lt;/a&gt; for a style of skirt that you could use this method with. The tutorial has you put elastic all the way around, but you could easily modify it to put the elastic only in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the above options will work with woven fabric, which is not stretchy. Woven fabric is much easier to sew than knit fabric, so it's a good option for a beginner. However, if you are willing to work with knit fabric, you can make a skirt with a stretchy waistband without any elastic. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sewinlove.com.au/2016/03/how-to-make-a-skirt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to a tutorial&lt;/a&gt;. If you follow that tutorial, I would recommend adding an extra step to hide the fabric edges at the seam where the waistband attaches to the skirt. Otherwise those edges will be scratchy on the inside. Instead of sewing both layers of waistband to the outside of the skirt, I would only sew one layer on the outside. Then fold the waistband over, tuck in the raw bottom edge of the waistband, and sew it down by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RO1I2.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RO1I2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T18:37:47.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10326" CreationDate="2021-05-22T18:48:35.297" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a means of making demo sewing patterns I was thinking of making them with the use a program such as Inkscape and then scaling them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to use small scale designs, so I can rough them out by eye first, and once I am satisfied with the appearance, make it a bigger scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be a good approach to use a program such as Inkscape to draw them first, and then use the vector resizing to scale them up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T23:34:31.800" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T13:32:18.297" Title="What drawbacks would there be in drawing miniaturized patterns in a vector-image program and then scaling them up?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10314" CreationDate="2021-05-22T20:10:02.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're looking for is called a &amp;quot;mockup&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;mock.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very common to make a prototype of a garment from cheap fabric first, then test the fit and, if everything's alright, repeat the process with the expensive fabric. The mockup fabric should be at least similar to the final fabric in terms of stretchiness and heaviness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the mockup is the same size of the finished garment, because the whole idea behind making a mockup is to test how well it fits. If you want this to be a surprise and not test the fit, you could do a smaller mockup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you tested the size and found any problem, you adjust the mockup until it fits. You can sew seams tighter if there is bulkiness or you can piece on another strip of fabric if it's too tight. Once the mockup fits, you mark all the seams on the fabric. Then you pick it apart again and adapt your pattern to the same seams you marked on the mockup. That way you make sure the final garment will fit well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People usually use cotton muslin or leftover fabrics that are sold cheap for their mockups. You can often find fabrics with Christmas prints or children's patterns for a reduced price in online shops. You can also use old bedclothes or tablecloths if you don't want them anymore, or have a look at second hand shops that might sell tablecloths or curtains for cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T13:12:34.367" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T13:12:34.367" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10316" CreationDate="2021-05-22T21:51:41.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would not be an adequate process to go from sketch to final pattern.  Humans have very complex shapes.  When you sketch a small version, you are working at a macro level, getting general shapes and proportions.  And you're doing that in 2D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things are very different when you translate them to 3D and scale them to human size.  There is a lot of adapting needed to fit the simple lines and curves of a design sketch to the complex shapes of a body.  Just scaling the sketch will, at best, give you a crude starting point for fitting that to a human form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial sketches won't be accurate or contain all the detail needed at full-size.  The benefit of vector tools is that you will be enlarging to a degree where pixel detail won't translate to smooth lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vector drawing software might help as a tool to get from sketch to full-size rough templates that you can manipulate.  But if you aren't a pro with the included drawing tools, you might find that the best workflow includes digitizing hard-copy sketches and then converting that to vector for resizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-05-22T22:45:20.993" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T22:45:20.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10320" CreationDate="2021-05-22T23:59:16.497" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to sewing. I have a box of old sewing stuff (+ other stuff) from an older relative, which includes the two pairs of scissors below. Sewing tutorials say you need to use fabric scissors to cut fabric or it will fray. I am curious if these scissors are fabric scissors or regular scissors? Is it a good idea to get different scissors to cut fabric?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0TNVi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0TNVi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6Zi0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6Zi0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oospL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oospL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11136" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T02:12:20.930" Title="Are these fabric scissors?" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10319" CreationDate="2021-05-23T02:04:03.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically what makes good sewing scissors is that they are nice and sharp, and will make a clean cut. So the simplest way to find out if your scissors are good for cutting fabric is to test them on some fabric. Take a scrap of fabric (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a large piece that you want to use for a project) and try to cut it. If you can cut a nice clean line in a single snip, then your scissors are good for cutting fabric. If you get frayed edges, or you have to open and close and kind of saw at the fabric, then your scissors are not good for cutting fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my take on the three pairs of scissors you have, but definitely the best test will be to try them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first pair, with the brand name Farr on the side, is probably a pair of fabric scissors. Farr made a variety of good sharp scissors, including barber scissors and fabric scissors. So even if they're now dull, it might be worth having that pair professionally sharpened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second pair, the ones with no brand name and black handles, reminds me of scissors I used in school art classes. Instinctively I assume they won't be sharp, but it's possible that type of scissor can be good quality when new and well-maintained, and the ones we had in school were just really abused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The last pair, also with no brand name, look like sewing scissors to me. They look a bit like a pair of Sears brand scissors I own, that are quite good quality. But mine have the brand name and country of origin embossed. The lack of brand name doesn't seem like a good sign in terms of quality. But the handle is well-worn, which might be an indicator that they were the original owner's favorite scissors, which is usually a good sign in a tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have some nice, sharp scissors that do a good job at cutting fabric, don't use them to cut anything other than fabric, even (especially) paper. If you decide to have your scissors sharpened, make sure you take them to a reputable sharpener who knows how to do scissors; don't just ask your friend who likes to sharpen their own knives. If you do it wrong you can ruin a pair of scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinking shears are a type of fabric scissor. Pinking shears have scalloped edges, so they leave a scalloped edge on the cut fabric, which reduces fraying. That's useful when you're cutting large pieces of fabric, or in particular types of fabric that are extremely prone to fraying. But you do have to make your seam allowances a bit larger to compensate. I've definitely seen sewing tutorials where they do everything with pinking shears, though. Your scissors are not pinking shears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastEditorUserId="8690" LastEditDate="2021-05-23T02:12:20.930" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T02:12:20.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-23T04:21:52.180" Score="3" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you watch the opening of this video, you’ll see a child actor riding a donkey. He is wearing a white henley shirt and some type of overall pants with a single strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/ArZK6aneeKg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/ArZK6aneeKg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would these pants be called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y4Uua.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y4Uua.png&quot; alt=&quot;Boy on horse in said trousers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11137" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2021-05-23T13:58:50.657" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T23:45:05.777" Title="What are these pants designs called?" Tags="|clothing|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10308" CreationDate="2021-05-23T06:05:54.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are rule of thumb estimates for standard items of clothing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you go to a good fabrics shop the experienced staff may still know them. I do not expect to find them in the instructions for buying online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were rough estimates at best and mostly you would buy more than you would need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to work out what you need will be making the pattern pieces and placing them on a table as wide as your fabric. But remember that many pattern only give half the pieces and you use the fabric folded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T06:05:54.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-24T06:39:03.360" Score="6" ViewCount="3323" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of my main problems.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've been working on quite a detailed sculpture drawing which would take time.&#xA;I've already coloured the pillars, but while I'm drawing the main temple above it, the pillars have already started fading in colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xljsr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDs35.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjLI1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11143" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T11:36:58.230" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T23:12:56.750" Title="How do I prevent pencil colour drawings from fading away while I'm still drawing it?" Tags="|preservation|pencils|colored-pencils|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10324" CreationDate="2021-05-24T12:24:33.920" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building on @Joachim's comments above, yes, the direct sunlight can affect the color and make them dull. Hence, when you are not working, you should store the paper in dark&#xA;(or use some protective varnish)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Do you wear any artist's glove while  (&lt;em&gt;A glove that covers ring &amp;amp; pinky finger&lt;/em&gt;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&amp;gt; If you are not using it, then it might help you with smudging and fading of colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&amp;gt; If you are using it, you might want to check the fabric and see if that's what affecting the pigments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, placing some other paper to cover the already drawn part, when working on details might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11144" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T12:24:33.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10316" CreationDate="2021-05-24T13:32:18.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you scale them up directly and get a perfectly workable pattern just by doing that? Unlikely, unless the pattern itself is particularly simple (a basic skirt or loose-fitting garment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can you do it? Sure. You'll need to accept that, once you've got the overall idea worked out, you'll have to make some further adjustments in tailoring after scaling up--your pattern won't be &amp;quot;done&amp;quot; by any means after increasing the size, but you can save some frustration on working out larger elements of the pattern using smaller pieces of fabric and less sewing time before bringing the whole concept up to full scale--keeping in mind that drape and gathers may not always work as well in the small-scale versions and may offer some &amp;quot;surprises&amp;quot; when you scale up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't draft patterns myself, but I'll regularly modify existing commercial patterns to fit what I'm trying to make, and I generally will test the modifications in small-scale first before moving into the full size pieces. As long as you're aware of the limitations of the process, and the adjustments that need to be made when switching scales, it's perfectly doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T13:32:18.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10324" CreationDate="2021-05-25T00:03:40.293" Score="1" Body="&#xA;&lt;h1&gt; THE SUN &lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bright lights and UV rays&lt;/strong&gt; will fade color&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Dust&lt;/strong&gt; its also a factor: since its near to impossible to stop once its settled, you'll try to remove it, and game over...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &lt;strong&gt; The main factor would be:&lt;/strong&gt; sunlight. Yes. Unless they're high-quality pencils, they  tend to be less likely to fade.&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &lt;strong&gt;So...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;minimize the exposure of bright sunlight and UV rays. How? by framing your art or keeping it in a dark place.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you dont have any of this, and your house is full of windows, consider buying some cellular shades, they can protect most UV light from coming in... plus, it will give you some comfortable indoor temperature!&#xA;&lt;h1&gt; I recommend...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt; Use varnish or a fixative&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &lt;strong&gt; But what's the difference between varnish and a fixative? you may ask&lt;/strong&gt;, well, a fixative spray is used to &quot;fix&quot; the drawing material (usually used on graphite, charcoal or pastel) so that it doesn't smear as easily. A varnish is used to protect it from absorbing pollutants from the environment.&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T23:12:56.750" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T23:12:56.750" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10324" CreationDate="2021-05-25T04:14:41.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your colored pencils probably aren't lightfast. Look for a lightfast rating on the packaging, if there's not one, there's your problem. If there's not, keep the picture out of the sun to prevent fading. You might want to purchase high quality lightfast pencils such as Caran d'Ache, Holbein, or Prismacolor as those are the best pencils with high lightfast rating. Those are not cheap, but they won't fade in the sun either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11149" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T07:20:18.273" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T07:20:18.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-25T06:30:52.513" Score="0" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I do a project with plastic I find that no matter how hard I try (light layers, long cure times) it's always obvious that it's a DIY paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I achieve a glossy finish like in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yl1-Wu--FDs&amp;amp;t=1006s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; (at the timestamp linked) that is glossy almost to the point of reflection but that is also consistent and smooth across the entire body? I've tried making glossy plastic finishes before but they are always patchy and unprofessional looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11150" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T06:45:05.220" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T13:09:38.230" Title="How to get a smooth and glossy professional finish on plastic?" Tags="|painting|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10329" CreationDate="2021-05-25T07:17:33.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That may be the plastic itself rather than paint. Molding the parts using colored plastic and a mold with a mirror finish produces a surface like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting that kind of finish with paint basically requires &amp;quot;polishing&amp;quot; the paint.  It is sanded with extremely fine sandpaper (grit in the thousands), then polishing compound, and buffed. It's essentially the same process as painting a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to do that with small parts, do the painting process as you've described. If there's a lot of surface detail, skip the sandpaper. You can use toothpaste as polishing compound. When you buff it, don't let the surface heat up, as that will melt the paint and make the surface a mess. Car bodies have a lot of metal to suck away heat, but plastic is an insulator and heat will build quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-05-25T13:09:38.230" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T13:09:38.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10324" CreationDate="2021-05-25T15:49:20.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The speed of the fading (especially since you cover your art when not working on it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There seems to be some smudging/fading in parts of the graphite (graphite is usually very light-fast).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You said that you are partially using watercolor pencils (which are designed to smudge very, very easily).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is more likely that most of the fading is due to how you work, rather than the light-fastness (or not) of your pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of recommendations in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/376/how-can-i-avoid-smudging-my-pencil-drawings&quot;&gt;this previous question&lt;/a&gt; for how to avoid accidentally smudging your art while working, but basically: put something under your hand so that your hand doesn't touch your art while you work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6023" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T15:49:20.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10324" CreationDate="2021-05-26T02:22:42.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These should have been just comments, but they ended up too long, so here I go again, partly repeating what others had already said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's some very concerning fading you got there. Just in case smudging somehow contributes to it as suggested by other people, I wanted to point out that for your chosen methodology — finishing up detailed work on parts before moving on to the next — it would be possible to organize your progress in a from-top-towards-bottom, and — if you are right-handed — from-left-towards-right directions. That could mostly eliminate the situations where already finished work ends up under your working hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; allow sunlight to directly hit your artwork. Not during creating it, and not during exhibition, when hanging on a wall somewhere. (Long-term exhibition should happen only under the protection of UV-filtering glass, or similar varnish.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now &lt;strong&gt;you could test the lightfastness&lt;/strong&gt; (or the lack thereof) of your pencils: create two, simple, identical test pieces: this should be just some plain, colored stripes applied thickly with the color pencils you use most often, and which you want to test. To keep it economic on the materials used, it doesn't even need to be a big area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep one of the test pieces in a protective dark environment, like a desk drawer or something. The other one, tape it to your window, facing outwards, where the sun can shine on it as much as it wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After every week of passing time, you could bring those two pieces together for a quick comparison, to see how fast the sun-exposed one fades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the rate of change on the sun-exposed one shockingly fast, you could buy a few color pencils from another brand (look for indicators/markings of lightfastness up front), and — before investing more work into actually drawing with them — just repeat the fade comparison test with them too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Consider that the fading test will present different results in summer- versus wintertime, due to the difference in the intensity of the sunlight and in the amount of sunny hours.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, pick the pencil brand that performs best in the fading-in-the-sun test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10433" LastEditorUserId="10433" LastEditDate="2021-05-26T03:39:57.243" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T03:39:57.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10334" CreationDate="2021-05-26T14:21:00.970" Score="6" ViewCount="843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started making my own bike luggage.  The first is a simple zipped &lt;a href=&quot;https://restrap.com/collections/frame-bags/products/frame-bag-large&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;frame bag&lt;/a&gt;, unlined.  Now that's finished successfully I want to make a full length &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.apidura.com/shop/racing-long-top-tube-pack/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;toptube bag&lt;/a&gt;.  Because these sit on top of the bike they're usually stiffened with a sort of foam, about 2-3mm thick, to stop them flopping around.  The foam is trapped between the outer and a lining.  I need to buy some of this foam sheet, but the typical EVA foam sheets in craft shops (and kids' craft kits, so I have plenty in lurid colours) is too soft at about the right thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using waterproof fabric (ripstop polyester) and may seal the seams on this bag, but I need non-absorbent foam.  The zips won't be waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I identify a stiffer foam? Densities are given for the better craft foams, but how does that relate to stiffness.  I don't want something actually hard, as I'll only just be able to stand over the bag on the bike; it will be packed with soft stuff  on top.  As a bonus, the foam will provide a bit of insulation for keeping a drink cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added some links to commercial products for those unfamiliar with the terminology.  The main reason for making them is to maximise the amount I can carry without panniers (bike-packing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.focus-bikes.com/gb_en/atlas-bikepacking-black-forest-into-the-dark&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;style&lt;/a&gt;; cost is also a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T20:33:36.363" Title="How can I identify/select a foam for stiffening a bag (buying online)?" Tags="|sewing|foam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10333" CreationDate="2021-05-26T15:25:45.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're looking for is foam interfacing (Pellon Flex Foam, Annie's Soft &amp;amp; Stable, Bosal In-r-Form, etc). This is a soft foam material generally about 1/4&amp;quot; (6mm) thick, designed to be sewn into projects like bags, totes, and hats to provide them with a stable structure while still allowing them to flex--it's meant for exactly your intended use. You may feel like it's &amp;quot;too soft&amp;quot; when handled, but when sewn into the shape of your bag, it will hold the form very well (especially once it's filled with other items). As far as your waterproofing concerns, the stitching across the seams should be sufficient to prevent it from getting wet in any weather you'd want to be out in yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blog &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.seasonedhomemaker.com/use-flexible-foam-interfacing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seasoned Homemaker&lt;/a&gt; has some information about the three main brands, as well as how to work with this type of interfacing and examples of projects made using foam interfacing for their structure. I've personally used it to make a witch hat (the pattern designer's work is shown &lt;a href=&quot;https://cholyknight.com/2019/09/12/witch-hat/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, also using foam interfacing for the structure) and have found it to keep its shape extremely well, even in the flat shape of the hat's brim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T15:25:45.840" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10336" CreationDate="2021-05-26T18:41:35.830" Score="5" ViewCount="5282" Body="&lt;p&gt;As can be seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvgePRW4BVw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, a CNC machine uses a cutting wheel in order to cut through fabric. That tool resembles a pizza cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can a pizza cutter cut through fabric? If so, what kind of fabrics is it able to cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="1043" LastEditDate="2021-05-28T14:58:18.780" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T14:58:18.780" Title="Can a pizza cutter cut through fabric?" Tags="|fabric|cutting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10335" CreationDate="2021-05-26T19:11:27.920" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unlikely.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a reason people keep separate fabric scissors from their regular scissors--cutting through fabric requires a very sharp blade, which you're unlikely to find on the average pizza cutter (designed to cut through soft cooked materials).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're seeing is a &lt;strong&gt;rotary cutter&lt;/strong&gt;, a circular blade on a handle that's sharp enough to cut through fabric. Unlike a typical pizza cutter, rotary cutters come with blade guards and retractable blades to protect the user from cutting themselves. They're frequently used by quilters, who need to cut many pieces with straight lines, often using heavy plastic templates. In the images shown on the blog Quilter's Review's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.quiltersreview.com/rotary-cutters/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;review of several cutters&lt;/a&gt;, you can see the safety features on the handheld rotary cutters. The CNC machine is using a similar blade, but as it's not being handled by a human directly, the need for the additional safety features is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-05-26T19:11:27.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10335" CreationDate="2021-05-26T19:14:03.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends on the quality of the knife&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As mentioned in a comment, a pizza knife is a circular knife (also called a 'roller blade'). Like any knife it can be high or low quality, sharp or relatively blunt, strong or weak, which will be decisive for the fabrics you are able to cut with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a specific kind of fabric in mind, my suggestion would be to simply try it out, but, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10336/6388&quot;&gt;Allison C points out&lt;/a&gt;, it's better to get a rotary cutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage you might notice is that a rolling blade allows for easier maneuvering, and can be especially useful - if sharp and sturdy enough - to cut out drawn patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested by Elmy &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/10335/can-a-pizza-cutter-cut-through-fabric#comment12105_10337&quot;&gt;below&lt;/a&gt;, be sure to use a proper support for cutting. A self-healing cutting mat is a very good option for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-27T16:18:43.140" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T16:18:43.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10335" CreationDate="2021-05-27T07:24:49.763" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if it is sufficiently sharpened. But... no restaurant would ever do that. I've worked in multiple restaurants including Pizza Hut (wow, that was 30 years ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most places used a rotary pizza cutter, except Pizza Hut had long curved blade at the cut station for normal pizzas. We called it the bat'leth*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every utensil was made of high quality stainless steel that could have been sharpened to the point that you could shave with it, but there was no need. A moderately sharp edge is enough to cut cooked pizza dough with that satisfying crunch. Anything more would just be asking for a ride in an ambulance and a stack of demolished cutting boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Once you got the rhythm down, rocking that blade across a large pizza 6 times to get 12 slices felt like Klingon battle training. Granted I was also a teenaged Star Trek nerd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11175" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T07:24:49.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10335" CreationDate="2021-05-27T08:54:13.153" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for fun, I tried it, with a well-used pizza cutter and scrap materials on a cutting mat.  Though the pizza cutter is old, it still does its intended job of cutting pizza very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't go through thin cotton (probably an old pillowcase, that I use for checking the sewing machine is running properly).  It wouldn't go through light ripstop polyester, and it wouldn't go through flat elastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pressed rather hard, as well.  It would be better for producing crease lines than actually cutting (though there's probably some damage to the fabric)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="8130" LastEditDate="2021-05-28T05:26:15.063" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T05:26:15.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10344" CreationDate="2021-05-27T14:21:53.977" Score="5" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/10335/319&quot;&gt;Can a pizza cutter cut through fabric?&lt;/a&gt; I started thinking.  I tend to cut fabric with scissors, or occasionally a scalpel (x-acto knife) on a cutting mat.  I used to have a rotary cutter, but lost it before I started doing much sewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I choose which to use?  Does workpiece size play a part? Fabric type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2021-05-27T15:09:24.827" LastActivityDate="2021-09-11T04:20:27.260" Title="When should I cut fabric with scissors, rotary cutter, or knife?" Tags="|sewing|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10343" CreationDate="2021-05-27T15:22:59.250" Score="3" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this old hammer head and I'm trying to restore it. I've had some luck removing the rust with 40 grit sandpaper and a sander but I'm going to need to get into those grooves and though that a wire brush on an angle grinder might be faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The objective is to remove the rust. What would work best in this scenario? And how do I remove the rust from inside the handle hole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ogxfP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ogxfP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11181" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T14:27:31.623" Title="Okay to use a wire-brush on angle grinder to remove rust?" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10342" CreationDate="2021-05-27T16:08:53.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use my drill-mounted wire brushes on the outside.  I've got a range of shapes and the slower, speed-controlled drill would be gentler on the workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the inside, I think you'll have to do it by hand.  Steel wool wrapped round a dowel, or better a piece of 2x1 planed down to to an oval that fits freely inside the hole, should do the trick.  If you use enough steel wool you can wrap it onto the end of your stick and staple/nail it in place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T16:08:53.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10341" CreationDate="2021-05-27T18:35:09.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's mostly a question of personal preferences and boils down to a mix of what shapes you need to cut and your bodily capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shapes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to cut many straight lines, gentle curves or use a hard template to cut out many pieces, most people prefer a rotary cutter for its speed and capability to cut around the edges of a template without having to mark the outline first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hig3S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hig3S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://quiltsocial.com/there-are-more-rotary-cutter-options-than-just-the-45mm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage of a rotary cutter is that it can cut through multiple layers of fabric at once without the pieces shifting out of place. This is often used by quilters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rotary cutter produces the cleanest cuts if you can cut the whole outline (or at least one entire side) in one go. That makes it impractical for very large pieces like shades, sails, upholstery and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rotary cutter also fails at notches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For straight cuts some people prefer a rotary cutter with a long ruler, others fold the fabric over and cut along the fold with straight scissors. I once saw a video where a woman explained that the reason why Japanese fabric shears look different than western ones is that you only need to cut straight lines to sew a Kimono. The fabric is folded over where you need to cut and one blade of the shears is inserted into the fold. By gently pulling the fold taut you create a straight cut but you still have very much control over the cut due to the shape of the shears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mV8kXm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mV8kXm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fine-tools.com/schere.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly never heard of cutting fabric with a knife (at least not in a professional context). I assume you could do that for straight cuts when the fabric is folded over, but I'm afraid the risk of a crooked cut or snagged thread is much higher than when using Japanese style shears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Capabilities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very diverse topic and always depends on the individual user of the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are for example left-handed people who were forced to use scissors with their right hand in childhood and now left-handed scissors feel awkward to them. They might prefer a rotary cutter for its simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you need the strength to push the rotary cutter forward and through the fabric. There are people with physical disabilities that do not have the strength or are unable to stand up and lean over the fabric to cut it. Most of them prefer scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also scissors with a spring that opens the arms after each cut, which makes them easier to use for people with disabilities or muscle weakness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usCnG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usCnG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00006IFNC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly there are people with impaired vision that might need to hold objects very close to be able to see them sharply. They may not be able to use a rotary cutter for bigger pieces because the edges may lay outside their range of vision. By marking the fabric and using scissors they can pull the fabric close enough to see clearly where they cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Price&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both tools come in a great range of prices, but one set of good quality fabric scissors can serve you for years while a rotary cutter needs replacement blades and a cutting mat. The mat must be at least as big as the biggest piece you need to cut, so bigger is better (but also more expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-05-27T19:05:05.873" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T19:05:05.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10333" CreationDate="2021-05-27T20:33:36.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the only problem with the craft foam is the floppiness, you may have luck with high-density EVA foam. Depending on where you're located, there are a number of online cosplay suppliers who have it available, and I know that &lt;a href=&quot;https://tntcosplaysupply.com/product/free-samples/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TNT Cosplay&lt;/a&gt;, at the very least, provides free samples of their foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking from experience, high density 2mm EVA (the thickness of craft foam) is on par with the heaviest weights of interfacing, but is obviously much thinner. It is beautifully waterproof, and holds its shape firmly when the pieces are cut and glued following an appropriate pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You can generally just use a fabric pattern for this, especially for something structured like a bag, and just glue the edges together with contact cement wherever you would normally sew; for this project, you could easily construct the entire bag from foam before slipping it in between the outer and lining fabric, although this is maybe a bit esoteric for your needs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If pressure is applied, 2mm and 4mm thicknesses will bend out of shape, but will generally spring back when the pressure is removed or with a little bit of encouragement. Thicknesses of 6mm and up are quite difficult to bend out of shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, like their low-density cousins, all thicknesses of high-density EVA are extremely water-resistant. However, because EVA lacks any sort of weave, it frequently behaves a little weirdly when punctured. 2mm EVA foam &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be sewn with a decently strong sewing machine (my Bernina Artista handles it without too much complaint), but I would only recommend this for sewing the foam into the fabric. If any strain is applied to a sewn seam on EVA, the thread will almost certainly just rip through the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11189" LastActivityDate="2021-05-27T20:33:36.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-28T12:38:31.510" Score="3" ViewCount="2136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an issue similar to outlined in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/8471/11191&quot;&gt;Can I mix acrylic paints into resin?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bottle of natural liquid latex rubber, the kind that dries in the air. Can I add acrylic paint to make coats with colour, instead of the natural translucent with pale zombie tint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much should and can I use? Is there anything to know about the paint to decide if it can go in? I'm especially interested in dark steel, gunmetal and other metallic colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11191" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-28T13:55:27.187" LastActivityDate="2021-05-29T18:39:01.143" Title="Can I mix acrylic paint into liquid latex rubber?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|rubber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-29T17:48:48.613" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired a fossil stone that I would like to display - its 1.6kg, 30cm x 12cm (15cm at its widest).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I was really after some ideas as to how to mount this - maybe perhaps on a wooden plinth but then I'm not sure how robust this would be and how to do it. I'm basically wanting for this to sit on a mantelpiece rather than hanging from a wall.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think I would prefer to not have this damaged as it's very old and I would be worried this might crack etc. Had thought about an easel plate holder but that doesn't seem strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be really appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11198" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-01T19:11:10.520" LastActivityDate="2021-07-01T21:00:10.050" Title="Mounting a stone for display" Tags="|technique-selection|stones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10346" CreationDate="2021-05-29T18:39:01.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic paints, or modified acrylic paints, are often used to color latex, but not for what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Latex is a little finicky.  Many colorants will cause it to do unwanted things, like coagulate quickly into a sticky, gloppy mess, fail to dry properly, or change its characteristics.  There are colorants designed specifically for latex.  My understanding is that some of these are acrylic-based (basically a suspension of acrylic paint in latex with additives like ammonia to control coagulation).  Some people do add acrylic paint to latex, often diluting it with a little ammonia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big exception to acrylic paints is metallic paints, which is your objective.  Many of these cause the latex to coagulate.  You would need to test the specific paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, it's usually easier to color latex with pigments than liquid colorants.  Also as a general rule, you don't want to adulterate the latex with too much of anything.  The latex is mostly water.  When it dries, there's much less volume of rubber.  So the colorant will represent a much bigger proportion of the rubber mixture, and have a big effect on its characteristics.  It usually isn't a good idea to add more than about 5% colorant.  Fortunately, it doesn't take much colorant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-05-29T18:39:01.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-05-29T23:55:17.653" Score="2" ViewCount="3185" Body="&lt;p&gt;What materials can I use to make a cast for melting lead?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And how would I make the cast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11202" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-30T07:51:19.963" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T13:48:01.907" Title="What materials can I use to make a cast for melting lead?" Tags="|metalworking|mold-making|casting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10350" CreationDate="2021-05-30T08:43:41.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most household pans work fine for melting lead&lt;/strong&gt;. Make sure they are thick enough, don't have plastic parts, and don't have Teflon or similar coatings (Teflon and lead share their melting points, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.protolabs.com/media/1014742/teflon.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;apparently&lt;/a&gt;). It's best to use a metal handle (I've used those aluminum camping pan grippers in the past, which are very practical, but I only melted relatively small batches).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Cast iron and steel pans and pots are all okay.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The &lt;strong&gt;Dutch oven&lt;/strong&gt; and a cut-in-half propane tank seem to be fan favourites for melting lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead melts at the relatively low 327°C (621°F). High heat settings on stoves &lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/a/85647&quot;&gt;can reach up to 343°C (650°F)&lt;/a&gt;. This means all household pans should be up to the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can use aluminum bakeware for casts&lt;/strong&gt; (like muffin pans, or those disposable oven dishes which can be shaped easily by hand if you don't care too much for detail).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably aware of this, but &lt;strong&gt;please be careful when melting lead&lt;/strong&gt;: the toxic gases can lead (heh) to lead poisoning. Preferably work outside and definitely &lt;a href=&quot;https://pksafety.com/blog/lead-dust-and-fume-protection-for-fishermen-melting-lead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;use a respirator&lt;/a&gt; (rated N-100, R-100, or P-100/HEPA; and opt for a reusable one ('half face') as they have superior face seal), eye protection, and protective clothing (in case of splashes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-31T19:19:36.530" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T19:19:36.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10353" CreationDate="2021-05-30T22:01:02.557" Score="1" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure all of you have seen these interlocking mats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUt0Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kUt0Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gym Floor Mats&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Credit: Amazon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make my own packaging for my artwork and use some stiff foam to hold everything together in the boxes I ship out. I am specifically using &lt;em&gt;closed cell foam&lt;/em&gt; because of its great properties for packaging. The foam I have is very expensive and not as high quality as the foam floor mats in my basement, so I took a spare mat and successfully cut it into foam cutouts for my artwork. There are a lot of companies that use very similar foam it seams. For example, this packaging for a USB adaptor I recently bought is almost identical to the floor mats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wGlcp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wGlcp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closed Cell Packaging&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These mats are available at far better prices (1/10th of the cost of what I currently pay), but the one thing that annoys me is the pattern on the top. I tend to glue and layer my foam when one sheet is not enough. I have seen some foams like this on Amazon which have a flat surface on both sides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYADm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYADm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Galaxy Rubber-Coated Foam Mat&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But these mats are coated with rubber grip, so it defeats the purpose. What this does prove is that factories DO manufacture these closed cell foam mats at affordable prices without the grip on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interlocking aspect of these mats also makes it feasible to reuse offcuts by locking them together, making them the perfect solution for product packaging foam. Where can I get mats without a grip pattern that can be cut for packaging? Also, as the thickness is a little too thick for my liking in some cases, are there any sellers that sell mats, say, half the thickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8332" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T05:21:22.177" Title="Where to Get a Smooth Foam Mat for Crafts/Packaging?" Tags="|material-selection|foam|material-sourcing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10352" CreationDate="2021-05-31T00:04:46.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mats are common, as you suggest and are composed of EVA foam. Almost every source I've found involves textured surfaces and interlocking edges. This is not universal. Cosplay costume makers use this material for creating various components of costumes, including masks and armor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brief search returned un-textured foam in 0.25&amp;quot; thickness (6.35 mm) and may be available in other thicknesses. I've found some one-inch thick textured mats from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/BalanceFrom-1-EXTRA-Thick-Puzzle-Exercise-Mat-EVA-Foam-Interlocking-Tiles-MMA-Exercise-Gymnastics-Home-Gym-Protective-Flooring-24-Square-Feet/239602674?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&amp;amp;adid=22222222222157779124&amp;amp;wmlspartner=wmtlabs&amp;amp;wl0=e&amp;amp;wl1=s&amp;amp;wl2=c&amp;amp;wl3=74973019370357&amp;amp;wl4=pla-4578572622533433&amp;amp;wl5=&amp;amp;wl6=&amp;amp;wl7=&amp;amp;wl10=Walmart&amp;amp;wl11=Online&amp;amp;wl12=239602674_10001068301&amp;amp;wl14=1%20inch%20thick%20eva%20foam&amp;amp;veh=sem&amp;amp;msclkid=3d15c587c887108a87b2a533edd8f3e9&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Walmart&lt;/a&gt; but you've indicated that textures are undesirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another search discovered a &lt;a href=&quot;https://tntcosplaysupply.com/product/extra-thick-eva-foam/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cosplay support site&lt;/a&gt; that sells the foam, untextured(!) in thicknesses of 24, 36 and 48 mm in 600 mm squares. (~1, 1.5, 2&amp;quot;, 24&amp;quot; squares) but I suggest it's not particularly inexpensive at up to US$20 for the thick stuff. Photo courtesy of linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fG29q.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fG29q.png&quot; alt=&quot;extra thick eva foam&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've received purchases packed with a lighter density closed cell foam which I think would be better suited for your purposes, and possibly less expensive. Running with that thought in a search resulted in much-lower pricing for lower density EVA foam from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.foamorder.com/foam/polyethylene.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;another source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one lists thicknesses from 0.125&amp;quot; up to 2&amp;quot; with seven different choices. The sheet is 40&amp;quot; x 80&amp;quot; from US$20 for the 0.125&amp;quot; piece and US$127 for the 2&amp;quot; thick sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page uses EVA and cross-linked polyurethane foam interchangeably, which may give you other options in your searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-05-31T00:04:46.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10355" CreationDate="2021-05-31T00:35:49.157" Score="4" ViewCount="6698" Body="&lt;p&gt;In paintings and sculptures, you can find people pointing up with their index finger.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;What does an artist or sculptor mean by this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SD8rd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SD8rd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raphael, School of Athens&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;By Raphael, The School of Athens (Public Domain) (&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=75881&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-05-31T08:28:13.657" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T10:13:07.600" Title="What does the gesture in art of the finger pointing upwards mean?" Tags="|painting|sculpting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10354" CreationDate="2021-05-31T08:18:34.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It depends on the context.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In your example, Raphael's fresco &lt;em&gt;The School of Athens&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, the gesture is made by &lt;strong&gt;Plato&lt;/strong&gt;, the ancient Greek philosopher.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;He &lt;strong&gt;is pointing upwards because&lt;/strong&gt; his philosophical inquiries (as outlined in his &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_forms&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Theory of Forms&lt;/a&gt;) have led him to conclude that &lt;strong&gt;the true nature of things is of a higher order&lt;/strong&gt; than reality as we perceive it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His pupil Aristotle, standing next to him, has his hand hovering in front of him, indicating - possibly arguing - that he has come to conclude that there is no reality separate from the one we can perceive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional function of these gestures is that these two figures, the most prominent in this particular fresco, indicate the major axes of the space: &lt;strong&gt;the vertical indication leads the gaze of the spectator upwards, even outside of the fresco into a suggested, virtual realm&lt;/strong&gt; (the painted skies above the painted architecture - which is especially poignant for Plato's idealism), whereas Aristotle points towards the spectator, into the very room they are standing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Through these gestures, the audience is pulled into the artworks, made part of it, and at the same time invited to look around in the chamber where this fresco is made, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raphael_Rooms&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stanze di Raffaello&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Often, however, in European visual art, the finger pointing upwards suggest &lt;strong&gt;the existence or presence of God.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This becomes obvious once you see how many depictions of Jesus, saints, angels, or other figures in Christian religious visual art make this gesture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MYirM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MYirM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVjnA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JVjnA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;St. John the Baptist&lt;/em&gt;, by Leonardo da Vinci.&lt;br/&gt;John is pointing upward as the true salvation does not come from the act of baptism alone but from God.&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Angel of Death&lt;/em&gt;, by Émile Jean-Horace Vernet.&lt;br/&gt;The soul of a young woman is being taken out of bed. She is pointing upwards, suggesting she will ascend to heaven.              &lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At other times (or simultaneously) it can suggest &lt;strong&gt;a warning, gesture of importance, or an invitation to pay attention&lt;/strong&gt;, just as it can be used today.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aV6O9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aV6O9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9rcy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9rcy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Death of Socrates&lt;/em&gt;, by Jacques-Louis David.&lt;br/&gt;Here Socrates, having been poisoned, still uses his last seconds to teach his philosophy.&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Secret&lt;/em&gt;, by William-Adolphe Bouguereau&lt;br/&gt;Along with the title, the gesture here is ambiguous, and able to hold the spectator's attention through this puzzlement.                       &lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-02T10:13:07.600" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T10:13:07.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10350" CreationDate="2021-05-31T21:41:23.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &amp;quot;cast,&amp;quot; think they are trying to say mold. The beginning technology would be silica sand with a binder. Silica is common beige beach or &amp;quot;play&amp;quot; sand; the binder could be water (damp sand), but will have no strength when it dries. I am thinking something like white wood glue diluted with water. Or, look up &amp;quot;how to make a simple sand mold&amp;quot; on the net. As answered, any kitchen pan could work, but I would not use aluminum because its strength is seriously compromised before 650 F. Industrial lead pots are cast iron (no coatings); I think that is a good hint. Although more expensive, I suggest pewter (mostly tin) or a solder like 50/50 lead/tin for beginning efforts. This is not rocket science; before video games, most kids I knew melted lead toy soldiers for something or other using a kitchen pan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-06-01T13:48:01.907" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T13:48:01.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="477" CreationDate="2021-06-01T06:29:43.147" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first difference is the texture. Drawing paper is smoother than regular paper. Secondly, drawing paper is usually thicker which allows for a more consistent stroke when creating artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing papers come in both cold-pressed and hot-pressed styles. Thickness ranges from 140lb to 300lb or 360gsm to 450gsm or sometimes even 800gsm though these are not as common and may be referred to as card stock or greeting cards rather than sketchbook paper. Aside from the size of the sheet, this type of backer board has no other similarities withdrawing papers thanks to their different surface textures and weight standards set by manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing paper is typically 60lbs, slightly but noticeably heavier than regular paper. It's also about a half-inch thick and spiral-bound at the top, making for easy flipping through to find a page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing paper usually has many quarter-circle cutouts along the sides, designed to keep your brushes from getting caught on the binding as you work in tight areas. The surface of drawing papers comes in three varieties: hot pressed (smooth), cold press (rough), and rough texture (very rough). Hot pressed or cold press drawing sheets are preferred for detailed drawings such as people or animals because they're smoother and more flexible than sketchbooks with textured surfaces. Rough textures provide a surface made up of ridges that mimic the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8671" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T06:29:43.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10359" CreationDate="2021-05-29T16:31:05.333" Score="3" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty minor - but it puzzles me. All desk pencil sharpeners I've encountered have a spring triggered &amp;quot;feeding arm&amp;quot; (see image where the arm is extended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0L3K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a0L3K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extended pencil sharpener&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's its purpose? I can sharpen a pencil without extending it, and after extending, why do I need the spring mechanism? It never triggers while there's a pencil inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11226" OwnerDisplayName="OmerB" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-01T19:07:05.897" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T19:07:05.897" Title="Desk Pencil Sharpener - what's the purpose of the feeding arm?" Tags="|pencils|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10358" CreationDate="2021-06-01T13:44:00.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In retrospect, I don't know how I missed it, but here are the details for anyone else wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pulling the feeding arm extends the spring. When the arm is pulled all the way back, it's locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At this point, rotating the sharpener crank (without a pencil) will release the lock, and cause the arm to spring back all the way in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But instead we keep the arm locked, and secure a pencil inside. When we rotate the crank, the arm (which now 'carries' the pencil with it) doesn't spring all the way in because the pencil end hits the blade - which is laid out diagonally (thus creating the desired cone shape when rotating). The spring power is used to push the pencil towards the diagonal blade while it's rotating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A secondary goal of the arm is to keep longer pencils leveled to create a symmetric sharpening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Thanks @wolff &amp;amp; @Janus!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11226" OwnerDisplayName="OmerB" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-01T19:06:23.787" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T19:06:23.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10348" CreationDate="2021-06-01T20:49:37.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a wooden display shelf would be a great solution (I'm not sure if that's what you meant by 'plinth').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the nicest presentation, I recommend you let the depth of the shelf depend on the angle in which the fossil stone can lean against the wall without any possibility of it tumbling over.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You might also want to consider a shelf with an edge for additional support, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BU0A9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BU0A9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hf6f9c08bf07d4ecea85b26021691d74d5/Kitchen-Floating-Shelves-Wall-Mounted-Wooden-Rack-Decor-for-Room-Kitchen-Storage-and-Display-DIY-Hanging.jpg_q50.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can use brackets to either hang a shelf from, support one, or to support the stone itself (there are many types (L, J, P, square, &amp;amp;c.) and options, see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=shelf%20brackets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This and the former solution are quite easy to make yourself, by repurposing wood for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The neatest solution would be a '&lt;strong&gt;floating shelf&lt;/strong&gt;':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ekssA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ekssA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ikea.com/eg/en/p/lack-wall-shelf-white-90282180/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the strength (and capacity) of the wall mount depends on the fastening and the wall itself. I wouldn't suggest any of these options for drywall (although some brackets might survive for long enough with the right expanding drywall anchors, but I've no experience with that. You can of course use the studs to which the drywall is secured, like in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/BpS_MEHfgac&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In brick or concrete you'll have to drill holes and use plugs, but the shelf will be sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T20:49:37.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10342" CreationDate="2021-06-02T14:20:48.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is a small object it is very easy to remove rust chemically. Citric acid removes rust very well and boiling solution of citric acid in water removes rust really well and also very quickly ;). You can get citric acid powder in grocery stores and it is quite cheap. It's OK, to use quite a lot of it. You can mix something like half citric acid powder half water by volume, but if you want you could use less and it will still work only a bit slower. I have used a simple kitchen pot to clean small metal objects successfully. It does not seem to damage steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind while it''s not the strongest and most toxic acid, it is still a hot concentrated acid so it wouldn't be fun if it gets in your eyes or on your skin. Also I wouldn't boil it too hot since the citric acid itself will boil at 175 degrees C and I don't think its vapour is fun to breathe or if it gets in your eyes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iron citrate is produced in the reaction. It is black and can be hard to wash off clothes and other stuff, but you can wash it off from the metal with soap and water. I wouldn't eat the stuff, but as far as I understand, it isn't very toxic. The surface will not be shiny and may look greyish after the process and I find it to be easiest to use metal brush bit for a rotary tool to finish cleaning it and make the surface nice and shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried it, but I think the solution could be kept for later use as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works on other corroded metals like copper(and copper is the stuff  that usually corrodes in silver jewellery) and aluminium as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastEditorUserId="9035" LastEditDate="2021-06-02T14:27:31.623" LastActivityDate="2021-06-02T14:27:31.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10352" CreationDate="2021-06-03T03:28:33.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A similar material is used for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-Foam-Sleeping-Pad/35395677&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cheap camping mattresses&lt;/a&gt;. It's usually blue. Search for &amp;quot;blue foam camping pad&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;sleeping pad&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;camping mattress&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;yoga mat&amp;quot; etc. Not sure how it compares in terms of price. Make sure you're buying the smooth kind that can be rolled up; there's also a textured kind that folds up in sections. The normal thickness is about 1/3 of an inch. It's terrible for sleeping on, but decent for craft projects. There are now a variety of less expensive, better quality, lighter-weight camping mattresses available, so many backpackers are getting away from the terrible old blue foam. So you might be able to get some for cheap if you advertise on a backpacking forum or contact a local hiking club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T03:28:33.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-03T14:51:00.967" Score="5" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making felt toy numberblock characters for my grandsons out of felt. What is the best adhesive to use to adhere the felt faces and arms onto the felt sewn blocks so they stay on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11236" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-03T15:28:59.430" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T21:18:56.940" Title="Adhering felt to felt" Tags="|adhesives|safety|felt|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10363" CreationDate="2021-06-03T15:38:12.040" Score="0" Body="&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tacky glue&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will help as is &lt;strong&gt;more thicker&lt;/strong&gt; than ordinary glue&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt; Hot glue&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably more familiar with this one, the pros with this one are that it &lt;strong&gt;adheres and dries fast.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fabric and Permanent glue&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;proceed with caution with these...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Permanent glue&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; The &lt;strong&gt; strongest hold &lt;/strong&gt; but, there is a con here: the smell, but it's not that kid-friendly.&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Fabric glue&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;sticks&lt;/strong&gt; hard and &lt;strong&gt;dries fast&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt; Avoid: craft glues&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; This glue is a ruiner, it makes it dificult to  stick  and it will end up with a darker tone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Alternatives to adhesives&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sewing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T15:38:12.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10363" CreationDate="2021-06-04T04:16:49.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue is not a good way to add fabrics to fabrics for children to play with.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Glue can get lose and the small parts you have glued on can get in the childs mouth or nose. I have never seen a glue that can not be peeled off by clever little fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of stitching on pieces of felt you can embroider details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2021-06-05T19:32:47.823" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T19:32:47.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5770" CreationDate="2021-06-05T07:24:08.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a variety of colors. One of the best parts about oil pastels is that they come in many different hues, so you can use them to create any color imaginably! It’s important to have multiple shades on hand when working with this medium because if you use too much white or black, your painting will appear dull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a fixative spray to protect your work. Oil pastels tend to smudge easily, so it’s important that you take precautions by spraying your finished painting with a fixative finish before displaying it! You can find these sprays at most art stores or online and they are relatively inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep colors from blending. Oil pastels will eventually blend and mix if you leave them exposed to the air for too long, but it’s important that you use a fixative spray before displaying your work so that this doesn’t happen!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a beginner will suggest you start from basic as describe &lt;a href=&quot;https://creativesea.in/blogs/how-to-make-drawing-with-oil-pastels/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. This way you will learn how to draw with oil pastels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use other mediums in conjunction with oil pastels. It can be difficult to achieve the desired look with oil pastels alone. Consider using other mediums like watercolors, acrylic paints, or colored pencils for different effects!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8671" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-05T08:28:32.303" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T08:28:32.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-05T14:05:41.833" Score="5" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing plastic models, started airbrushing recently, had a &amp;quot;toy&amp;quot; compressor, I was happy with it, but it broke, and I'm trying got &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cmmodellismo.it/it/compressori/3996-fengda-mini-compressore-as-18-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this new one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But somehow I'm getting this result, a somewhat furry texture of the painting, not sticking to the surface, like some sticky stuff would put on before the painting. I'm using Revell enamel paint. Tried with one of my greens and this black, same results.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is it a known problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIXhH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIXhH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After waiting to dry and lightly brushed with a clean brush:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQhzX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQhzX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11242" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-10T15:31:44.843" LastActivityDate="2021-06-10T15:31:44.843" Title="Strange furry results with airbrush" Tags="|painting|airbrush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10367" CreationDate="2021-06-05T19:34:47.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paint needs to be thin and uniform for air brushing.  That looks like clumps of paint.  A few conditions can cause that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The paint is too thick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The paint isn't uniformly thinned, so some of what the air brush sprays is &amp;quot;chunks&amp;quot; and sputters rather than mist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much solvent is evaporating on the way to the surface (choice of solvent, amount of solvent, and distance from the surface).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nozzle isn't staying clean.  Paint collects around the nozzle and then big droplets are projected at the surface by the spray.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're applying too heavy a layer.  Use many light layers rather than going for heavy coverage in one pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-06-05T19:34:47.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10381" CreationDate="2021-06-10T14:08:25.337" Score="5" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved a large amount of oil paintings cross country in a trailer. They were stacked vertically, but a couple of paintings that were leaning face-to-face ended up transferring paint from one to the other (see attached photos). The underlying paint seems undamaged, it seems color from one painting just transferred across. These are not fresh paintings, all were painted at least a decade ago so the paint should be completely dried and cured. Transfer happened in the past couple of days, so I'd like to take care of it hopefully before it has a chance to set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What methods would you recommend I try to remove the transferred color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water based?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mild detergent?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any mild solvents I should try?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gentle bristle brush work, or soft rag?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I haven't tried anything, this might be easy, but I'm looking for suggestions that are likely to be effective but not damage the paintings.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWTHS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kWTHS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p7HZP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p7HZP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DevM2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DevM2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11301" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T14:31:54.723" Title="Cleaning an oil painting paint transfer" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-10T22:21:21.557" Score="4" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my all-time favorite drawing tools is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jetpens.com/Pentel-Pocket-Brush-Pen-XGFKP-A/pd/1793&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pentel Pocket Brush&lt;/a&gt; pen, a cartridge brush pen (&amp;quot;fudepen&amp;quot;) with a bristled tip instead of the more common flexible nylon tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I went through a rather lengthy spell where I wasn't drawing, without also realizing the cartridge on my pen had run out. When I picked it back up recently, even with a new cartridge and allowing the pen to sit tip-down overnight, I wasn't able to get a good ink flow through the pen, only jagged, pale lines. This leads me to believe that, due to the empty cartridge, the ink in the feed had started to dry up and has clogged the pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the ink is both water- and Copic-proof, soaking in either plain water or alcohol is unlikely to loosen the ink from the feed and allow it to flow through again. Because of the name of the pen being composed entirely of extremely generic words, it's also tough to find much information on whether anyone's had success reviving a dried Pocket Brush. So far, I've found no evidence anyone's tried to do so, much less what procedure one might use to attempt to revive the pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might one do to restore the ink flow to a partially or fully clogged bristled brush pen, if anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that I have already replaced the pen with a new one, so anything that I'm able to test can be tested on it without risk of ruining my only pen; it's already ruined, so I may as well donate its body to science!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T08:29:01.870" Title="Restoring a dried-out cartridge brush pen" Tags="|pens|paint-brushes|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10373" CreationDate="2021-06-11T08:29:01.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the ink may not dissolve completely, it might still loosen up to a certain extent using &lt;strong&gt;hot water&lt;/strong&gt;. It only needs to be able to become flexible again, after all. First of all, I'd try to hold it under hot water from the tap, or leave it for a while in a cup of hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rotring.com/uk/leads-inks-refills/299-cleaning-fluid-for-technical-pens-4006856585803.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rotring Pen Cleaning Solution/Fluid&lt;/a&gt;. I saw it suggested somewhere that the solution might consists mainly of &lt;strong&gt;isopropyl alcohol&lt;/strong&gt;, so it will probably be cheaper to try that first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbItEKkNWZY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;refill the cartridges&lt;/a&gt; yourself (which might also be more economic), so an option - in addition to soaking - is to fill an empty cartridge with water and try to force it through the feed by pressing the cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-06-11T08:29:01.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-12T21:02:21.297" Score="4" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a Saihai-prop for a LARP and I want to wrap it in a way that imitates a Stingray skin on the handle. However some stingray skins can't be traded legally under the Washington treaty, so I need to substitute for the real stuff. I technically could buy pearl-ray skin, which is legal, but that would mean I need to get a lot more of the leather than I actually need: the handle only is about 150 mm long and about 50 mm in circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make an imitation of the bubbly texture of rounded domes that is characteristic for a stingray skin, which can then be wrapped around a wooden handle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11332" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-06-14T13:43:09.767" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T08:01:54.363" Title="Imitating stingray-skin texture?" Tags="|material-selection|leather|props|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2021-06-12T23:13:58.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A rather natural and realistic looking imitation you can opt for, is &lt;strong&gt;real leather that has been made to look like stingray leather&lt;/strong&gt;. This is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonded_leather&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bonded leather&lt;/a&gt;, and made by pressing leather scraps mixed with a binder, often rubber. This specific imitation is quite hard to find, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are also &lt;strong&gt;faux leather&lt;/strong&gt; alternatives (polyurethane and PVC) to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OzSBg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OzSBg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9IsQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9IsQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xmecc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xmecc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Bonded leather (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bestbeads.com/10mm-fauxstingray&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)                             &lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Faux leather (i.c. PU) (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/832545762/pu-leather-fabric-faux-leatherette?ga_order=most_relevant&amp;amp;ga_search_type=all&amp;amp;ga_view_type=gallery&amp;amp;ga_search_query=faux%20stingray%20leather&amp;amp;ref=sr_gallery-1-7&amp;amp;from_market_listing_grid_organic=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)                 &lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Silicone mold (&lt;a href=&quot;https://sweetybijou.com/silicone-texture-stingray-skin-leather-180x115mm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)                                 &lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you might be able to create a material with the texture of stingray leather using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://sweetybijou.com/silicone-texture-stingray-skin-leather-180x115mm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silicone mold&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For a pliable material, you can cast with silicone (be sure to use a release agent; see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/4279/replicating-a-silicone-object&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;), or polymer clay, as Elmy suggests in the comments.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can dye the material, and probably - I haven't tried this, and it might not work well with a surface that will be &lt;em&gt;handle&lt;/em&gt;d a lot - roughen it up using sandpaper, so it loses a little more of its sheen in order for it to be more leather-like in appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use latex instead of silicone, you have to make your own negative mold (creating a positive silicone mold and using plaster to create a negative one, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For a cheaper method, you might be able to stamp an anti-slip material, which regularly come with tiny domes on their surface (see image below), onto clay to create a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IT0Kj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IT0Kj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://ws.draadrianabarbachan.com.uy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-15T08:01:54.363" LastActivityDate="2021-06-15T08:01:54.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2021-06-13T02:24:50.633" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have folded origami tesselations from parchment paper. It's not completely waterproof, but hanging in a window I think it could afford a few raindrops without losing its shape. I love origami,  need to get back into it. Beautiful!!&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nWJ7X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XAOC0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11333" LastActivityDate="2021-06-13T02:24:50.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="62" CreationDate="2021-06-13T13:57:45.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At one time there was a mixture called sizing made from scrapings of still wet rabbit skins the inside of the skins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would wet the paper with water first then tape it down to a board with a heavy tape like duct tape then brush it down with sizing. Once the paper dries, brush it down with sizing again, allow it to dry, then size it one more time allowing it to fully dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to cut the paper then and be able to paint on it without fear of it buckling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11339" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2021-06-13T19:36:40.857" LastActivityDate="2021-06-13T19:36:40.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10372" CreationDate="2021-06-14T14:31:54.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This weekend I just went ahead and tried stuff.&#xA;Compressed air (40psi) plus a dry, soft toothbrush got about 60% of the extra color off. It seems that the rubbing deposited a good bit of color dust, and much of that was able to be blown off with a little agitation. I followed with a toothbrush wet with water and a drop of dish detergent. That worked moderately well. Finally, I moved to a melamine sponge (Magic Eraser) with the slightly soapy water. The melamine sponge needs some real care though. They work well around the house because 1) they are very porous and trap dirt and particles in the sponge pores, but 2) they are slightly abrasive and can remove a thin layer of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My results were, on the lightning strike painting I was able to remove the extra color, but I think the white scrapes are actual damage and paint scraped from the painting (during transport not cleaning, I went really easy with the cleaning). On the fish scene, I was able to remove all the stray paint with no visible damage to the painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11301" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T14:31:54.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10363" CreationDate="2021-06-14T21:18:56.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to needle felt the two together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You’ll need loose wool fiber (cat hair and dog hair also work great) and felting needles (very sharp, use with caution!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There’s lots of great tutorials on needle felting on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sort of glue you try to use will be ineffective.&#xA;Felting the two pieces together is simple and permanent, if you get all the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other really effective option is to thoroughly sew on the pieces with appliqué embroidery methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11345" LastActivityDate="2021-06-14T21:18:56.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5770" CreationDate="2021-06-16T03:13:21.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d take a look at three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The shape of the mountain peaks - could they be drawn with more natural lines and angles? They are all triangular in shape and about the same size (save for the one on the left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The strokes, especially in the grass. I once read an article that suggested treating brush strokes like characters in a story. If they’re noticeable, it’s important to give attention to the length and angle of the strokes. Perhaps experiment with different kinds of strokes and see what works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dark and light: it looks like darker values are the same pastel, but with more pressure/intensity applied. As another poster suggested, consider using different pastels for darks and lights of the same hue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T03:13:21.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-17T14:42:50.483" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was asked to paint a fair-sized concrete statue a year ago and have recently finished it. However, I didn't research the paint required in-depth, and as such have used standard, what I assume is chemical based paint for interior use as opposed to for exterior use. We live in a country with a lot of rain and it's intended for exterior use.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's been primed in 'B&amp;amp;Q White Masonry Primer and undercoat for exterior concrete, brick and stone'. It was cleaned beforehand using water and a small amount of fairy liquid, with toothbrush and sponge, and then rinsed with the hose. Any imperfections, cracks, and holes I filled with Terracotta Milliput and sanded to remove most of an existing mold line and smooth out the added material. The statue was already 2 years old when I got it. I've been looking over the internet but admittedly confusedly, but maybe I'm in denial and will need to start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the paint immediately peel, would I have to start over, and what - if any - sealant would I require or is recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11364" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T16:01:36.887" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T23:16:47.070" Title="Is DecoArt Standard Crafter's acrylic paint good for a concrete cockerel for outdoor use?" Tags="|painting|concrete|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10388" CreationDate="2021-06-17T17:28:45.397" Score="4" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pencil extender. It works great for graphite pencils, which are thinner. However, charcoal pencils are too thick for it. How can I use my charcoal pencils when they are too short to hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11365" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-17T20:21:40.103" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T14:10:00.373" Title="Are there pencil extenders for charcoal pencils?" Tags="|pencils|charcoal|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10387" CreationDate="2021-06-17T20:21:24.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll assume you're talking about Conté pencils (Fusain Charcoal, which often come in sets with grey and white Conté).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caran d'Ache has a pencil extender with a 9 mm diameter, which should be sufficient for those pencils, which are slightly smaller.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can search for 'FixPencil 0012' or 'CARAN 12.009' (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alwaysfashion.com/en/caran-dache-pencil-holder-12009&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are generic brand double-ended pencil extenders that allow up to 10 mm &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SZDB7B9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="293" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T14:10:00.373" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T14:10:00.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-18T06:45:14.150" Score="3" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it's the brushes or the brand of acrylic paints (DecoArt or Martha Stewart Satin Finish) I use, but I'd like to achieve a smooth finish when I paint my ceramic pots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11367" LastActivityDate="2021-07-26T14:04:20.443" Title="What brand/type of acrylic paints is recommended to paint ceramic pots without leaving brush marks?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|ceramics|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5392" CreationDate="2021-06-18T21:09:28.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the available solutions, it may help to understand how acrylic paints work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acrylic paint composition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main ingredients in acrylic paint are pigment (colored powder), and acrylic binder.  There may be additional ingredients to control drying time or characteristics of the uncured or cured paint, and cheap paints may mix in other, less expensive binders or cut costs in other ways.  But the gist of the issue relates to the acrylic binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the binder hardens, it creates a film that is essentially Plexiglass that holds the pigment particles together, and (if the hardening happens after you have painted with it), holds them to the surface.  It isn't &amp;quot;pure&amp;quot; Plexiglass; it's adulterated with other stuff and the polymerization may not be complete.  The film is microscopically thin layers of plastic around the pigment particles that is fragile compared to a sheet of pure Plexiglass.  So almost-cured paint can be broken down or often partially resoftened.  But the cured binder within it is the same plastic as Plexiglass, and isn't affected by water or dissolved by acrylic medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pigments are basically inert.  All of the action relates to the binder.  The paint starts with a certain ratio of binder to pigment.  When the binder hardens, that will leave a certain amount of plastic between the pigment particles, which affects opacity and strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thinning acrylic paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you thin the (uncured) paint with acrylic medium (just the binder with no pigment), the paint will be less viscous because the pigment acts as a thickener.  You also get a higher ratio of plastic to pigment, which will be stronger but less opaque.  If you thin the paint with water, you don't change the ratio of plastic to pigment, just the viscosity (which also affects the thickness of the paint layer and its opacity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How acrylic paint hardens&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The acrylic binder hardens through polymerization.  In its liquid state, the binder contains the precursors for the plastic, which are small molecules, suspended in water.  There is also a catalyst that causes the small molecules to link together into long chains that become the plastic.  The water keeps everything separated and the catalyst very diluted.  When the water evaporates, polymerization starts.  Some of the thickening of the paint is due to water evaporation (higher ratio of solids to liquid), and some is due to the start of formation of the chains of plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polymerization isn't reversible, at least not in a way that retains the characteristics of acrylic paint.  If you thin the thickened paint, any of the molecular chains of plastic that have already formed remain, they just get spread around in more liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as all of the solids in the paint (aggregations of pigment particles and plastic chains) are still microscopic, you can get the paint to still behave like paint.  If you thin with acrylic medium, the new medium can bind together the previously polymerized plastic.  If you thin with water, you slow down the polymerization of more of the existing binder.  However, already polymerized plastic will be floating around in the diluted remaining binder.  When the aggregates of solids get too large or the proportion of uncured binder too low, it will no longer act like paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Restoring paint that has only thickened&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the paint has not yet hardened, you can generally thin it.  If you use water, use very warm, but not hot, water.  With either water or acrylic medium, allow a lot of sitting time and do a lot of mixing to completely diffuse the liquid evenly throughout the paint.  Once the paint has thickened, the catalyst has become more concentrated and some amount of polymerization has started.  If you thin it unevenly and leave clumps of thickened paint, those areas will continue to polymerize even though the paint seems thinner over all.  So it will have a much shorter shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Restoring paint that has dried on the surface or contains dried chunks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dried paint won't be restorable, but it may be a skin covering paint that is still good.  Try to pick out the solid pieces.  Add a little warm water (drops) to the solid pieces and let it soak for 10 or 15 minutes.  If the paint softens, chop and crush the chunks to expose any liquid paint.  If that paint is still overly thick, add a little more water or acrylic medium, mix it in and let it sit again.  Pick out bits or chunks that don't dissolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint that is hard throughout&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has already polymerized and can't be turned back into normal acrylic paint.  However, you can sometimes turn it into another type of paint.  If you use a solvent to dissolve the acrylic, you can make a paint that will re-harden when the solvent evaporates.  It probably isn't worth it, though.  Here's why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The process and resulting paint are hazardous.&lt;/strong&gt;  There are solvents that will dissolve acrylic.  You can buy small containers of acrylic welding solvent (usually mostly methylene chloride), but that is designed to evaporate extremely fast (probably too fast to be good for paint), and you don't want to breathe the fumes while using the paint.  Readily available ones often found in a paint department include toluene, acetone, MEK, and probably xylene or lacquer thinner.  Some people report using nail polish remover (ethyl acetate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these solvents are highly flammable, hazardous to breathe, and not good for your skin.  So you need ventilation and protection.  Consider whether you want to do your painting wearing a respirator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The result usually doesn't make good paint.&lt;/strong&gt;  To turn it back into paint, you need to carefully control the ratio of solvent to dried paint.  It can take days or even weeks with periodic mixing for all of the acrylic to dissolve and create a smooth, uniform paint consistency.  It is hard to control the consistency.  Depending on the solvent, the mixture may not handle well as paint (e.g., it may skin over quickly), and it may quickly harden or gel in the container, so it won't have much shelf life.  The new mixture may not bond well.  It may be brittle and will not have the characteristics associated with acrylic paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-06-19T05:53:58.920" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T05:53:58.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-19T06:14:01.097" Score="2" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was trying to attach a piece of paper covered in hot glue to an embossed paper surface with hot glue, and it just kept falling off. Is there a better glue or better method to attach the paper to the embossed surface? Just to be clear, the paper surface was embossed with clear embossing powder, so it is shiny, smooth and pretty much impermeable. I am up for any suggestions. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8658" LastEditorUserId="8658" LastEditDate="2021-06-19T16:59:34.950" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T16:59:34.950" Title="How to attach a piece of paper to a paper surface that has been embossed" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2022-04-05T09:54:03.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-19T19:48:21.453" Score="7" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making custom bags, purses and totes out of heavy cloth fabrics for the last several years and have been struggling with my two home sewing machines (Brother CS6000i and Janome HD3000). I want to upgrade to an industrial sewing machine but am a bit overwhelmed by the range of choices available. I'm looking for advice on what type or types of machines and needle systems would be best suited for working with somewhat bulky, home decor and upholstery fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where my current machines struggle is when I sew bag straps over 7/16&amp;quot; thickness, gussets, and top-stitching smaller bag openings. I use a wide variety of fabrics. Most of my work today on my home sewing machines is done with #14-16 needles. I'm frequently breaking needles, and I suspect this is because the machines just aren't big enough to wrestle all the fabric through, things drag and the needle snaps. For some projects I probably need to go to a bigger needle, but #16 is the largest my machines supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a cylinder arm sewing machine may be helpful but I have no experience with one and most of the advice I've found online about cylinder arm machines is related to leather. Plus many of the cylinder arm machines I've come across use needle systems designed for leather and not upholstery fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sewing machines I've come across that look like they may work for me are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Atlas AT335 (DPx17, 135x17 needle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cobra Class 26 (DPx17, 135x17 needle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any feedback or advice would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are some examples of the types of projects my machines struggle with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QlVXx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QlVXx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GEQFu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GEQFu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11373" LastActivityDate="2021-06-20T13:18:37.510" Title="What type of sewing machine is appropriate for making heavy fabric bags?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10386" CreationDate="2021-06-19T20:15:05.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interior-grade paint can sometimes be affected if it gets wet (depending on the composition), and may fade or degrade from exposure to UV (I'm not familiar with how the specific paint you used will hold up to exterior exposure and weather).  Normally, I wouldn't worry about peeling, given the prep you describe.  But concrete can absorb moisture, which can degrade the paint's bond.  If a lot of work went into detailed painting, I'd be tempted to just protect it with an exterior-grade clear coat, like one designed for car finishes.  You can get the clear coat in spray cans, which will be good for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the statue is good and dry throughout (concrete is porous and holds moisture).  Ideally, this should have been done before painting with acrylic, but drying out the concrete with a slow process should allow water vapor to escape.  For four days to a week, keep it in a closed room with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A space heater that maintains the room as hot as the hottest outdoor temperature the statue will see (but at least in the mid-80s F).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A dehumidifier set at a low humidity setting (like 35% or 40% RH).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then allow the room to cool to a temperature you can comfortably work in (and within the recommended application temperature for the clear coat).  But keep the dehumidifier running (especially important when the room cools because the humidity will spike at the lower temperature).  Seal the bottom of the statue so it doesn't absorb moisture from there.  When that is completely dry/cured, depending on what you use, stand the statue up to clear coat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply the clear coat in many light layers (about four should do it).  Spray from different angles and inspect for coverage with a light after each coat, especially in nooks and crannies that may not get good coverage.  Follow the product instructions for how long to wait between coats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with very dry concrete and encase the statue in a good, continuous plastic shell, the paint should hold up to the weather.  When you transport the statue, protect it so that the clear coat doesn't get damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-06-19T23:16:47.070" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T23:16:47.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10395" CreationDate="2021-06-20T12:55:37.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cannot find a maker space as suggested in the comments, find a reliable dealer that has a repair shop. These machines are very heavy and cannot be transported for repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working in the studio producing 8-15 canvas fabric custom hand bags daily depending on complexity, I used a Singer straight stitch flat top commercial machine. Juki has a good machine very similar to the Singer. The biggest difference besides speed is that they oil themselves. This means that when you tilt the machine up, there is a basin of oil underneath. The bobbins side load from underneath. You will need to have a super long flathead screwdriver to occasionally get to the bobbin casing to correct the needle catch - there is another Stack Exchange answer with pics of the open machine from a few years ago. &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/5776/what-needle-depth-should-i-set-to-prevent-the-machinery-from-hitting-the-needle&quot;&gt;What needle depth should I set to prevent the machinery from hitting the needle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dLaG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Singer Commercial flat top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a circular arm (such as the ones you mention) was available to test,  I found that it was necessary to change some of the methods of manipulating the bag. Certain parts of sewing had to be turned upside down for the circular arm to feed the fabric and attach handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s interesting to create 3d objects, there is a lot of inside out thinking that needs to happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind a commercial machine can be leased or rented and needs a professional to fix it when it malfunctions - especially timing. They are easy to maintain if you clean it regularly. And they have a feature that loads bobbins while you sew. You can adjust the height of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a former seamstress who made the same type of bags for a living, I bought the Singer CG 550 with a Sew EZ flat top table to bring my skills home and be able to handle the thickness of the fabric and my speed. I was downgrading from professional workload to occasional and adding garment making, quilting &amp;amp; upcycling. I  my CG550!&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Bw2L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Singer CG 500&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2021-06-20T13:18:37.510" LastActivityDate="2021-06-20T13:18:37.510" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10400" CreationDate="2021-06-20T21:11:33.343" Score="3" ViewCount="686" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUlOL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUlOLm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;slippers felt &amp;amp; leather clean&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click for larger image&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These lovely slippers serve me well and are comfy and sturdy. But they are now dirty. Please can someone help me figure out the best way to clean them? They have a leather base and should not be put into the wash machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErQQU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErQQUm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dirty but loved slippers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click for larger image&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried brushing them and vacuuming them. I’m apprehensive about applying water or any chemicals. They are now grey and I don’t want to disturb the embroidery work. The store where they were purchased does not provide care instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I did a test on an older pair of the same slippers but they have rubber soles not leather, this is where the leather sewing instructions will come in handy later. thank you again @elmy  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eDPBl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test cleaning&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leather ones are now dry! They look much better. The felt and insides took the washing well, I took the hand washing method that @orla provided. I was probably too delicate and feel like they can handle being washed again. Also, the leather performed exactly as @user3067860 said it would, 2 days and the leather feels good.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0dNF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first cleaning&quot; /&gt;&#xA;Thanks again so much!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2021-07-03T01:30:12.017" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T01:30:12.017" Title="Instructions for cleaning felt slippers with leather soles &amp; embroidery" Tags="|maintenance|felt|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10399" CreationDate="2021-06-20T22:02:57.187" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your slippers are as sturdy in water as out. The are good peasant slippers, worn outside in all weathers. The leather can be saturated and then dried in a warm place as long as you don't break or overfold it. Felt is spectacularly tough. The wool embroidery just needs to avoid rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could pop them in a pillowcase soles together, tie into a neat package and run in a wool machine wash with a towel (that has a cushioning affect). Use wool soap or eco liquid soap directly into the drum.&#xA;To tidy up the embroidery, use a small scissors to trim away a little of the red and green fuzz. This will sharpen up the embroidery without damaging the integrity of the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it sounds too scary fill a sink with warm soapy water. Immerse. Put your hands into your slippers and dance. Squish to create a liquid exchange from the inside through the outer embroidery. This helps pull particulates away. The soap opens up the fibres and helps release the dirt. Rinse under a tap. Blot with a towel and air dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I studied restoration. I work with wool and associated equipment- in a museum, as a wool craft, and on a farm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11378" LastActivityDate="2021-06-20T22:02:57.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10399" CreationDate="2021-06-21T09:24:52.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If these slippers are made in a traditional way, it might be relatively easy to remove the leather soles. In &lt;em&gt;ye olde&lt;/em&gt; times many items were designed and made in a way that they could be repaired, especially the parts subjected to the most wear and tear like the soles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Relatively easy&amp;quot; means that you still need the right tools, like a sturdy thick thread to sew the soles back onto the shoe and a strong hand-sewing needle. A curved needle will probably make the work easier than a straight needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are 2 instructions how to attach a leather sole to a fabric shoe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mamainastitch.com/how-to-add-soles-to-knit-or-crochet-slippers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Add Soles to Knit or Crochet Slippers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Suede-Slipper-Soles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Suede Slipper Soles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before picking your slippers apart&lt;/strong&gt;, you should read those tutorials to understand how the existing sole is theoretically attached to your slipers. Then take your slippers and examine them carefully. How thick is the thread that attaches the soles? In wich pattern was the sole sewn? Follow the thread a few times from the outside to the inside and out again to really understand how the sole was sewn. Where is the knot that secures the thread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel like you understand how the slippers were sewn and you're confident that you can resew them, pick the soles apart, wash only the textile part (hand wash or a gentle cycle) and resew the soles after the slippers are completely dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note of caution: although your slippers do look rustic and the soles look like they're sewn on, there's still the risk that they are glued in addition to the sewing. In that case you won't be able to remove the soles for washing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-21T17:20:30.693" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T17:20:30.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-24T12:11:40.380" Score="1" ViewCount="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually have a little mug or can that I dip my paintbrush in when I want to clean it, but I found out it is not allowed to pour it out in the sink because water colors and acrylic paint is toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems you have to drive to the recycling center and leave the can in there and write a note on it what is inside. I don't understand the details of this yet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have hundreds of cans with lids lying around at home, so how do you professionals handle this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you buy special disposable cans or something, and I don't know how many times it is possible to reuse the dirty water, after a while I doubt the brush will get any cleaner from it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11392" LastActivityDate="2021-06-24T12:11:40.380" Title="How to handle disposal of paint?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2021-06-24T12:18:49.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10389" CreationDate="2021-06-26T13:45:50.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watering down the paint&lt;/strong&gt; (as mentioned in the comments) Acrylic paint can be thinned by adding water until brush strokes self-level. If you want to be uptight, use distilled water. Chlorine and minerals in tap water may have some effect on the paint, but it's doubtful that it'd be significant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Foam brush&lt;/strong&gt; Foam brushes are often used to avoid brush strokes. You used the word &amp;quot;delicate&amp;quot; in your question, so this may not be an option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spray Painting (with stencils)&lt;/strong&gt;. Depending on what your art is, you might be able to create a stencil for it and then spray paint. You can buy removable self-adhesive vinyl from a crafting store (electrical tape works in a pinch) and either cut it manually or find someone with a computer driven cutting machine like a Cricut or Silhouette.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11175" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T13:45:50.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8151" CreationDate="2021-06-26T19:12:46.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use Krylon Fusion but I do the prep work, even though they claim you don't have to. I originally used it because I was told (by someone at a store that specialized in aquariums) that it's aquarium-safe &lt;em&gt;once cured&lt;/em&gt;. It can stand being submerged in water for years and, not that you need this for your application, it won't leech nasty chemicals into the water over time. I looking for corroboration and found a good article on fishlab.com (&lt;a href=&quot;https://fishlab.com/aquarium-safe-paint/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://fishlab.com/aquarium-safe-paint/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find any information on cure time (vs dry time) for the Rustoleum paint you used but I suspect it's much longer. Whenever I've looked up cure time for a paint, it has been somewhere close to a week. Given that you're switching paints between layers, you probably want to let your underlayers cure, then lightly sand them before using the marker paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, do you know what plastic the outlet covers are? Some plastics require adhesion promoter before priming. HDPE requires flame treating before using adhesion promoter! If it's one of the difficult plastics, you can apply a sticker label to it and then paint that. Probably easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11175" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T19:12:46.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10412" CreationDate="2021-06-28T09:37:16.627" Score="0" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using a yellow wood varnish which is readily available in hardware stores to seal my acrylic painting. They are cheap and good varnishes, but the problem with them is that they leave a yellowish shine which changes the original color of my painting. And the yellowish shine increases with time.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Now I am in search of an alternative which is equally good and cheap. I also don't want to spend much on the varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a varnish I could use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9659" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-29T09:33:40.903" LastActivityDate="2021-08-09T11:03:38.303" Title="Varnish for acrylic painting" Tags="|painting|preservation|acrylic-paint|varnish|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3402" CreationDate="2021-06-28T14:48:24.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have about 15 tubes of Shiva casein paint tubes that were left in a box in my garage for 8 years, I am mainly an oil painter, never try to paint with acrylics or casein.&#xA;So I tried them, they were a bit thick but I added few drops of water and I  was flabbergasted, they all were good, they dry way too fast for my painting style, but I am going to learn how to use them, I think they will work great for an under painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11425" LastActivityDate="2021-06-28T14:48:24.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-28T16:02:36.167" Score="4" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I glittered a poster board using Mod Podge.  Now that it is dried I notice unevenness on it. Is there a way to smooth out dried glitter on a large poster board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11426" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T07:54:25.560" Title="Can dried glitter be smoothed?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10409" CreationDate="2021-06-29T07:05:36.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;By glittering the board, you basically glued rough particles onto the board. If you try sanding it smooth, you risk removing the particles again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To smooth the surface without removing material, you need to add more material. In this case you need to add several thin coats of clear varnish. Acryllic varnish is easy to handle and should bind very well with ModPodge. I propose using a very soft and wide brush for this. First cover the board (or big areas if the entire board is too big) with a fresh layer of varnish, then sweep the brush in long sweeps from one edge to the other over the still wet varnish. This brushes the varnish from the little peaks of the glitter into the valleys, filling them up with material and evening out the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to apply several (probably 4 - 8) &lt;strong&gt;thin&lt;/strong&gt; layers of varnish this way. Make sure each layer is completely dried before applying the next. If you slob one thick layer onto the board, it will look messy and uneven in a different way (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/6/6316&quot;&gt;read more here&lt;/a&gt;). If you plan to paint or glue something else on the board, do that before applying the varnish to seal all the layers in evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't get a perfectly even mirror finish like that, but it will smooth out the worst bumps. If you want a mirror finish, you need to slightly sand the dried varnish between applying each new layer and then polish the final layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-06-29T07:54:25.560" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T07:54:25.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-06-29T07:16:38.400" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using the yellow wood varnishes, which are easily available in hardware stores, to seal my acrylic painting. They are cheap but the problem with them is that they leave yellowish shine which changes the original color of my painting and which increases with the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in search of an alternative which is, more or less, equally cheap. I don't want to spend much on the varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9659" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2021-07-05T14:55:03.617" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T10:12:06.253" Title="Varnish for Acrylic Painting" Tags="|preservation|acrylic-paint|storage|varnish|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2021-07-09T10:12:26.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10407" CreationDate="2021-06-29T09:31:17.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me you shouldn't use wood varnish in the first place, which is a product intended for varnishing wood, where discolouration is usually not a big problem (yellowing isn't that obvious when varnishing yellow wood, after all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Find a varnish that is intended for varnishing &lt;em&gt;paintings&lt;/em&gt;, specifically for paintings that are made using acrylics&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This varnish will likely be more expensive, since it is a more specialized and refined product, but it will also be a lot better for your intended use, and will not yellow (as much - this is dependent on a lot of factors, the most prominent one being exposure to UV radiation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that with cheaper solutions for varnishing your paintings you will end up paying in quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-06-29T09:39:13.817" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T09:39:13.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10414" CreationDate="2021-06-29T10:09:26.183" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of &lt;strong&gt;Aquadur PU&lt;/strong&gt; by &lt;strong&gt;Asian Paints&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Camlin Picture Varnish Oil colors&lt;/strong&gt;. Can I use them to seal my acrylic paintings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9659" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T09:00:53.537" Title="Can I use Aquadur PU or Camlin Picture Varnish Oil color as a varnish for my acrylic paintings?" Tags="|preservation|acrylic-paint|storage|varnish|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10413" CreationDate="2021-06-29T20:17:30.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Asian Aquadur PU is a wood varnish, which is something you already asked about &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/10407/varnish-for-acrylic-painting&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. These products are not made for varnishing paintings, so you can expect yellowing (and other detrimental characteristics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Camlin Kokuyo Camel Picture Varnish is specifically aimed at varnishing paintings made with oils. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/Camlin-Kokuyo-Picture-Varnish-100/product-reviews/B07NJTFRQY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt_rgt?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;reviewerType=all_reviews&amp;amp;pageNumber=1&amp;amp;filterByStar=critical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apparently&lt;/a&gt;, users experience a slight dilution of paint when used on acrylics, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.in/Camel-Artist-Picture-Varnish-Off-White/product-reviews/B07DLKKKJR/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt_rgt?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;reviewerType=all_reviews&amp;amp;filterByStar=critical&amp;amp;pageNumber=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;others outright denounce it&lt;/a&gt; for this use.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I can't find any information on the nature of this product, so cannot comment on it from a more chemical perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can however suggest to simply get a varnish that is intended for use on acrylic paintings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-06-29T20:17:30.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-01T08:01:12.957" Score="3" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to 3d print some Christmas decorations that are semi transparent, and different colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could color the resin before I print, but as I want the decorations to be different colors this would mean multiple print runs and would create a lot of mess and waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something that I could dip my finished and hardened decorations into, or paint on to them that would give an even and semi transparent effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have the clear resin ready to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T06:47:34.353" Title="How do I color clear resin after it has hardened?" Tags="|painting|epoxy-resin|dyeing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10419" CreationDate="2021-07-01T12:18:58.033" Score="4" ViewCount="3666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had been using crayola air-dry clay for some time to make sculptures. However, it seems after a few years the clay begins to disintegrate, if you will, with the clay gradually breaking out into a white powder. This has been quite a disappointment for me, as I used to love sculpting with clay but tired of seeing my creations disintegrate before my eyes. The degradation process is hard for me to describe, so I'll add a picture of a sculpture I did six years ago for a school project which is now falling apart.&#xA;I was wondering if anyone has any idea as to why this would happen and could help me avoid it in the future? I would really love to start using clay again in my projects but don't want to have to fire it. Are there any really good, quality air-dry clay brands that are known to last over time? I am curious about paper clay as well and am wondering if that would be a better choice to work with.&#xA;Thank you very much! I'm hoping you can help me figure this out.&#xA;Margaret&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S0eOt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S0eOt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is a sculpture I made six years ago. You can see the powdery clay coming out from the head and the dress. The arms have completely disintegrated. I coated this piece with a polish to prevent this from happening but clearly it didn't help. All my sculptures, whether just hardened clay, painted, or coated end up breaking apart like this.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11440" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T00:53:33.523" Title="Crayola Air-Dry Clay Disintegrating Over the Years" Tags="|clay|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10417" CreationDate="2021-07-01T17:56:53.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some suggestions, since I stopped using air dry clay for similar reasons to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper clay, or even plaster embedded in cloth, is fun! These will need armatures since they drape and harden. Armatures could be made out of coated cardboard, aluminum foil, used plastic bottles, wire, something that won't mold on you when wet. You really just need a bowl of water, your medium, and your base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my paper clay bird sculpture, I used recycled materials that could hold their shape under weight like coated postcards from the mail, plastic forms from packaging, and electrical wiring in plastic cords that I took apart. The clay I bought, but there are recipes if you google &amp;quot;paper clay recipes&amp;quot;. I took my time going from the center and out to keep the weight balanced. Since everything is wet, you have to think of what has to be propped up to keep its shape while things dry. And then remember there's an underside to coat as well. Like paper mache, drying thin coats between layers helps it be stronger. Once it's dry it's fairly lightweight. I wish I had kept my bird, but I had it for several years and nothing happened to its form during that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a side note, you could try using regular clay. Your construction will have to compensate for the fragility of clay. I've done this a few times for different reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that could be done: block carving, sculptures with thick bases, erosion/time commentary, environmental commentary, fragile things on purpose... Painting could be done with slip glazes, non-fired the colors will be soft and pastel and very easy to scratch, which could be a look. The unfired clay could be polished. It does dry out and become quite hard, like a dried out block would need a sledge hammer to break it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5882" LastActivityDate="2021-07-01T17:56:53.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10417" CreationDate="2021-07-01T21:53:06.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crayola Air Dry Clay Composition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crayola Air Dry Clay is a proprietary formulation and Crayola is very secretive about the composition.  They say it is a natural earth clay.  From the MSDS, it's clear that it contains some amount of organic material that might be added to control handling characteristics or act as a binder.  They say not to try to bake it or fire it, so the composition isn't something that will stay intact under heat or fuse together like pottery clay.  That probably means that it contains more than a trivial amount of non-clay material and relies on something other than the earth clay as a binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why it disintegrates&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earth clay is composed of tiny, plate-shaped particles that form weak bonds with each other.  When the clay is wet, a molecular film of water between the plates lets the plates slide around, allowing you to shape the clay.  When the clay dries out, that film evaporates and the plates can't slide, making the clay rigid.  The bonds between the particles are strong enough to hold the clay together and retain the shape it's been given, but the clay is brittle and fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With pottery clay, if you raise it to a very high temperature, the clay particles melt and fuse together like glass, making it one solid object rather than stuck-together particles.  An air dry clay based mainly on earth clay remains just stuck-together particles.  It needs to contain some other ingredient to act as a binder or the result would be too fragile to hold up to handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With earth clay, as the water evaporates, it leaves pockets and micro-cracks throughout.  Once dry, the clay expands and contracts through changes in temperature and humidity.  It's also exposed to environmental vibration.  These put additional stress on the cracks and they spread, weakening the sculpture.  If cracks around an area meet, chunks fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the Crayola product behaved like almost pure earth clay and started to deteriorate, what falls off would be chunks and flakes.  It wouldn't break down into powder.  The frilly nature of the damage in the picture also isn't characteristic of earth clay disintegration.  It looks like the product relies on another ingredient as a binder, and that is breaking down.  Or as Elmy mentions in a comment, the product may contain mineral salts that are recrystalizing and causing or contributing to the clay breaking down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the objective of the Crayola product is a kid-safe material for play that doesn't need to last forever.  In that sense, it may be a poor material for serious crafting of objects you want to last.  Many other air dry clays have compositions that should last a very long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy pre-made air dry clay, but there are endless recipes online for clays you can make from inexpensive household ingredients and readily available materials that are at least as good, customizable in their characteristics, and used by professional artists.  Some of the best air dry clay recipes I've found are at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ultimatepapermache.com/recipes-for-paper-mache&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimate Paper Mache&lt;/a&gt;, which would be a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DIY Recipes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of general types of DIY air dry clay.  Some are basically &amp;quot;dough&amp;quot;, based predominantly on flour or starch and using the stickiness of these materials when wet as the binder.  These generally don't hold up well over time.  Another type uses glue as a binder and combines various ingredients to fine-tune the characteristics.  This provides much more control over the nature of the clay, and the result lasts a very long time.  So this type is generally what's used for more serious art and I'll focus on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question asks about paper clay as a distinction from air dry clay.  This isn't really a useful distinction.  With &amp;quot;glue-based&amp;quot; clays, there are many different types of ingredients that can be included (and in varying proportions), to fine-tune the characteristics of the clay.  Some amount of paper pulp is often included because the fibers add a lot of strength and resilience.  But if it's made right, you probably wouldn't know from handling the clay that it contains paper fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper pulp alone can be molded into objects.  Adding glue creates a kind of moldable paper mache clay.  You can make that paper mache clay more clay-like by adding a thickener like talc or starch.  You can reduce shrinkage and make the result harder by adding something like calcium carbonate powder or drywall compound.  You can make the air dry clay predominantly out of the other ingredients and include a little paper pulp to add strength.  Paper is just one of the optional ingredients you can include to give the clay the characteristics you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to develop a recipe optimized to your own needs is to start with a few different popular recipes that are based on different ingredients and ingredients in different proportions.  See what you like and don't like about each in terms of how they handle as clay and the hardened result.  Then mix and match and substitute between the recipes, and adjust proportions, to find what works best for you.  You can make small batches and test things side-by-side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elmy makes a good point in a comment that disintegration can stem from recrystalization of salts.  There are a number of recipes for DIY air dry clay that use salt as a preservative.  This is very common with recipes that are flour-based.  Other soluable mineral salts, like baking soda, are used in significant proportions in some recipes.  I've generally not liked these recipes because of their consistency or tendency to shrink a lot, as well as not holding up over time.  If you need your work to last a long time, avoid recipes that contain a significant proportion of soluable mineral salts or that use salt as a preservative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Degradation over time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, with DIY air dry clay, the main way you get disintegration is if the clay contains a substantial proportion of organic material like paper pulp or corn starch, has no preservative and no protective paint coating, and is in a humid environment.  In those conditions, mold or bacteria can eventually attack the organic ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DIY air dry clays, especially those that use glue as a binder, behave differently from earth clay.  They can have a tendency to crack during hardening if certain methods aren't followed, which I'll cover below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They usually contain a lot of water.  As the water evaporates, the clay loses mass and shrinks, and it does that from the outside in.  The outside shrinks faster than the inside, and your sculpture isn't a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TARDIS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TARDIS&lt;/a&gt; that can be bigger on the inside than the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clay recipe has high shrinkage and the outside shrinks too much faster than the inside (the thicker the clay, the more effect), the weakest area gives way.  You end up with one or more big cracks.  With earth clay, big cracks would be a sign that widespread serious deterioration has already occurred.  But with DIY air dry clay, these are actually good in that they relieve the stress on everything else,   making the sculpture stronger and avoiding damage elsewhere (and they are easily repairable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clay hardens in two stages.  Most of the shrinkage is in the first stage, when the excess water that makes it pliable evaporates.  When this stage is complete, the object will feel hard and solid but the glue will still be weak.  In the second stage, there's much less shrinkage and the glue develops its strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Methods&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of helpful methods for working with air dry clays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a recipe less prone to cracking.  These typically contain less water, more non-shrinking filler, and more glue.  And as mentioned above, avoid recipes that use salt as a preservative or other soluable mineral salts as a significant ingredient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knead the clay thoroughly when you make it, let it rest overnight in a sealed container, then knead it again before you use it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work in reasonably thin layers, and minimize the amount of clay you need by using armatures and filler cores for large pieces.  Thick clay can take a very long time to dry and is more prone to cracking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow surface drying during the first stage of hardening so it dries and shrinks at a more even rate throughout.  This can be done by keeping the finished object in a container that isn't air tight but keeps the humidity high, or keeping it covered with slightly damp towels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do get cracks, you can fill them with more of the same clay and the result is strong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-07-04T00:53:33.523" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T00:53:33.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10416" CreationDate="2021-07-02T01:46:33.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to special tools, you can also use some extraordinary things. You can use ink from ballpoint or gel pens, oil paints for artists, ink for polymer clay, alkyd paints, crayon leads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11443" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T01:46:33.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2585" CreationDate="2021-07-02T20:24:46.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic and metal have very different expansion coefficients, so you need something that will not only bond with both materials but will remain flexible.  The question isn't clear as to whether the metal will be sealing the snow globe (described as a jar cap).  If so, the adhesive and the bond also need to be unaffected by the liquid in the globe.  Common liquids for this purpose are water, glycerin, or baby oil/mineral oil.  Water or oil can be a problem for many adhesives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dow Corning DOWSIL 832 Multi-Surface Adhesive Sealant&lt;/strong&gt;  This is the best adhesive I can think of for this purpose.  It's a silicone adhesive and sealant designed to bond strongly to acrylic and many other plastics and most common metals (not all silicones bond well with acrylic).  This will also be impervious to any of the liquids typically used in a snow globe if it is being used to seal the globe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E6000&lt;/strong&gt;  This is another adhesive that ought to work but I've never tested it for this purpose.  It bonds strongly with many plastics and most metals.  Once it dries, it isn't affected by the liquids typically used in a snow globe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T20:24:46.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-03T09:29:48.860" Score="0" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used airbrushes before, but only in art classes, so I know very little about them beyond using them to paint with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the compressor that I already own. I'd rather not buy another as I don't want to have to store two of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to buy in order to fit a generic mid range airbrush to it. If possible, could you please link to Amazon or an art supply store as I don't yet know what all of the terminology means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be painting models, mostly getting smooth base coats down at first, then moving on to details once I'm more experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to need something to reduce the pressure and to allow me to control it close by so that I don't have to keep going to the compressor to do it (It's probably going to be outside), as well as dust\oil\water traps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9b4t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9b4t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Compressor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgcCq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgcCq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Connections&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BvqHB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BvqHB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gauges&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mFMh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mFMh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Accessories&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vaOLq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vaOLq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Boiler Plate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T10:22:13.313" Title="What do I need to buy to run an airbrush on this compressor?" Tags="|tool-selection|tool-modification|airbrush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10423" CreationDate="2021-07-03T10:22:13.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've pretty much answered your own question. The obvious parts are sufficient length of hose, a water/oil trap at the compressor and one close to you and the correct fittings to convert from the quick-release fitting on the end of the hose to the airbrush fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most compressors use NPT/BSP threaded connections, so you'd need something based on that thread. Amazon has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B004KNBW6E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;female BSP to airbrush adapter&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlmWp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlmWp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;airbrush adapter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that BSP is British threading, while NPT is USA tapered threading. You'd have to check your airbrush for the type of connection and match it to the fitting on the last air/oil trap (with regulator for pressure adjustment.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I searched for NPT to airbrush adapter, tons of conflicting results appeared, with far more adapters than I expected. My compressor required that I purchase an adapter kit, from which only one fit the airbrush!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-07-03T10:22:13.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10416" CreationDate="2021-07-03T20:14:23.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go for acrylic based paints like &amp;quot;Window Color&amp;quot; or similar transparent glass colors. They are relatively cheap and come in many different, vibrant colors. I strongly advice looking for viscous paints or gels. They are easier to apply, won't drip and create a more even coat than very liquid colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAhW9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAhW9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once tried painting a resin printed miniature, but the paint didn't stick well enough to be handled. However, if you put an even coat around the whole ornament, the dried paint itself should be stable enough (e.g. not rip or be pulled off too easily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-07-06T06:47:34.353" LastActivityDate="2021-07-06T06:47:34.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10439" CreationDate="2021-07-13T11:14:14.077" Score="2" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Bernina Activa 145, which I mainly use for bike luggage and outdoor gear.  That means a fair bit of bar tacking webbing straps etc.  If I keep exactly the same pressure on the pedal, and press the reverse stitch button, the machine runs slower, release the button and it runs faster again.  A nice easy speed for working forwards translates to minimum speed in reverse.  I can speed it up again by pressing the pedal more firmly, so it's not just that it runs at minimum speed in reverse.  If I'm doing a lot I do synchronise foot pressure and reverse mode but this takes a bit of getting used to each session&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this slow-motion reverse inherent to all machines? A feature of mine? Changeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T08:28:01.697" Title="Is reverse stitching on a sewing machine always slower than forwards?" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10432" CreationDate="2021-07-14T05:26:22.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bernina.com/de-DE/Support-DE/Maschinen/BERNINA-activa/BERNINA-activa-145&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download link with language selection&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bernina.com/BERNINA/media/Support/Sewing_Quilting_Embroidery/activa/activa_145/Documents/EN/activa-135-145-EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;direct download of the english manual&lt;/a&gt;) indicates that there are buttons for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reverse sewing and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Half motor speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would experiment with those 2 settings. They are explained on page 22 of the manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a1dgL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a1dgL.png&quot; alt=&quot;detail of operation manual&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the &amp;quot;Reverse sewing&amp;quot; button twice quickly to activate the permanent reverse stitching mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test the speed on a scrap piece of fabric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the &amp;quot;1/2 motor speed&amp;quot; button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test the speed again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the &amp;quot;Reverse sewing&amp;quot; button once to deactivate the permanent reverse stitching mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try the speed in forward and reverse mode (by holding down the &amp;quot;reverse sewing&amp;quot; button)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the speed is still halved, press the &amp;quot;1/2 motor speed&amp;quot; button while holding down the &amp;quot;reverse sewing&amp;quot; button.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-07-14T05:26:22.303" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-18T04:51:31.830" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago I made a few origami platonic solids based on this video: &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TV7sbaffuNo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TV7sbaffuNo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to find a way to modify the module to work for other platonic solids and not just the dodecahedron. Unfortunately, I have since lost the method to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to modify the folding of the M-shape to work for creating triangles and squares rather than pentagons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11523" LastActivityDate="2021-07-18T04:51:31.830" Title="Edge based platonic solid origami" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10437" CreationDate="2021-07-19T06:53:31.090" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought of a soap &amp;quot;flavor&amp;quot; that smells like morning cofee. Therefore, I thought alongside the vegetable oil to use full fat milk as fat source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the strong base required also break down the fats that exist in the milk as well? Also, what chances are that the milk part of the soap to go bad as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will use the method that requires no heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="1043" LastEditDate="2021-07-19T08:05:02.757" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T18:08:53.477" Title="Can I use a combination of milk and vegetable oil as fat source for soap making?" Tags="|soap-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10436" CreationDate="2021-07-19T17:19:06.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can, but there are some things you need to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using milk in soap will always create an unpleasant smell for about a week after cutting the soap. After that first week, the smell &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; disappears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you burn the milk (because the chemical reaction gets too hot) the burned smell &lt;em&gt;won't&lt;/em&gt; disappear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The milk will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; color the soap opaque white, you'll need to add white pigments for that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The smell of the milk will definitely change. So I'm not sure you can get a &amp;quot;milk coffee&amp;quot; fragrance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Milk cannot replace any fat in the recipe. Most milk has &amp;lt; 4% fat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fat that's in the milk is supposed to be very healthy and caring for the skin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are in general 2 ways how you can add milk to your soap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;milk-powder-ynp7&quot;&gt;Milk powder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You dissolve the lye in water and let it cool down to room temperature. Add milk powder to the oils before adding the lye. If you want an opaque color, you need to add white pigments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can add 1 tablespoon of milk powder for each pound of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example (including recipe) can be seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/v0aZKbvXkyc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; by Kiwanna’s Kitchen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&quot;fresh-milk-7e1m&quot;&gt;Fresh milk&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/nTf6Pg-jV8k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; (by Bramble Berry) sums up the process of using liquid milk in soap very well and explains the pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this method you prepare the lye with milk instead of water. The problem is that dissolving lye produces &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of heat, enough to actually burn milk, which produces an unpleasant odor and yellow color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to freeze the correct amount of milk in an ice cube tray. Put the milk ice cubes into a mixing bowl, sprinkle a little lye on top and stir &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; well. Keep adding a little lye at a time and stir constantly. The lye will soon start melting the milk, but hopefully not burn it. The slower you add the lye to the milk ice, the better result (color and smell) you'll get. You can further cool the milk by putting the mixing bowl into an ice bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stir well past the point the milk is all melted. Because of the opacity of the milk you cannot see whether all the lye crystals are dissolved, so stir longer just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to keep the oils rather cool before combining everything and put the soap into a fridge or freezer to keep it from burning after it's been poured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-07-19T18:08:53.477" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T18:08:53.477" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8488" CreationDate="2021-07-19T17:57:22.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ball is there to disrupt any air bubbles from forming. The bubbles can disrupt the flow of ink and they can be very stubborn in a small tube like this, especially with thicker inks. The ball(s) bounce(s) around and stops the bubbles from forming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good example of such a converter - the &lt;a href=&quot;https://unsharpen.com/refill/pilot-con-40-fountain-pen-converter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pilot Con 40&lt;/a&gt;. You can clearly see the three small steel balls in the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11530" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T17:57:22.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10432" CreationDate="2021-07-20T08:28:01.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked Bernina themselves, and this is what I got in reply to my email:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for contacting us regarding quick reverse on your Activa&#xA;145.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your machine sews slower in reverse to aid accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not possible to alter the speed of this function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess for short reverse stitching (locking) it's not a big deal to go slowly and you want to start going forwards again at the right stitch.  The  machine is really meant for finer, more decorative, work than I use it for, but it's what I've got, and very nice too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T08:28:01.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10442" CreationDate="2021-07-20T10:02:30.120" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because either the sodium or potassium hydroxide used in soap making seems kinda dangerous and less forgiving in case I mess up on soap making, what other alkali I can use instead of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also due to CO2 emmissions I would love to avoid ashes as well. I was looking for some sort of fruit/vegetable juice/extract that has pH &amp;gt; 7 but less dangerous that lye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T22:29:19.017" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T00:41:55.273" Title="What alternate alkali can I use instead of ashes and lye (sodium or potasium hydroxide solutions) for soap making?" Tags="|soap-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10440" CreationDate="2021-07-20T22:59:42.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soap contains alkali metal ; Li, Na, K, Rb. Cs . If properly made there is no free alkali just as there is no free chlorine in table salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="3114" LastEditDate="2021-07-20T23:25:25.997" LastActivityDate="2021-07-20T23:25:25.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10440" CreationDate="2021-07-21T00:41:55.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on how literally you intend the wording.  Technically, you can't make &amp;quot;soap&amp;quot; from scratch without lye (it's how &amp;quot;soap&amp;quot; is defined; it isn't just broken-down fat, it is a specific type of chemical salt resulting from a certain reaction).  However, you can make materials from scratch that behave like soap without using lye, or you can start with a soap base where someone else has already done the &amp;quot;dangerous&amp;quot; part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me pick apart the assumptions behind the question a little to get to information that answers what you want to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you define &amp;quot;soap&amp;quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing from this and your other recent question on soap, that your objective is a DIY material that has the cleaning properties associated with soap (perhaps with the additional requirement that it is solid at room temperature).  Soap is one of the materials like that, and it is popular to make from scratch.  But it isn't the only one and there is more than one way to get to the end result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most commercial bars of soap aren't actually soap (if they are called something like &amp;quot;bath bar&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;beauty bar&amp;quot;, a familiar product brand name, or something else, and don't include the word &amp;quot;soap&amp;quot;, they aren't soap).  They are likely synthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perspective on the dangers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several elements to the danger posed by lye.  One is in the handling and the soap-making process.  Lye is caustic.  It can cause chemical burns if you get it on your skin and it can ruin your clothing or the finish of surrounding surfaces if you splash it on them.  So you need to take reasonable precautions, be careful, and pay attention to what you're doing when you use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other danger is unreacted lye in the finished soap, either because you started with an inaccurate mix or the reaction hasn't yet gone to completion.  This will be much more diluted than the concentrated lye used to make the soap, but it can irritate your skin or worse.  So you need to use an accurate mix and give the soap time for the reaction to complete.  You can also err on the side of using a little less lye than required, which will leave a little fat not converted to soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, keep some perspective on the danger.  You may already use concentrated lye if you use drain cleaner.  If you eat pretzels, they have received a wash of diluted lye.  If you get lye on your skin, you can wash it off and/or neutralize it before it burns your skin off, so you might just get a little irritation if you're fast.  People have been making soap with lye for thousands of years without disfiguring themselves.  Bottom line: it's reasonably safe if you treat it with respect.  Still, if you don't want to mess with it, there are alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you make soap from scratch without lye?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soap is defined as a product made from animal or vegetable fats reacted with lye.  It takes a strong alkali to produce the chemical reaction (the reaction won't happen with a weak alkali, so you can't use something like baking soda and just give it more time); it requires both a very active alkali and a high concentration of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soap is also a specific chemical salt.  There are other strong alkali materials that might break down the fat, but the end product wouldn't necessarily behave like soap (and you would still be using a strong alkali with the dangers you want to avoid).  Basically, if you want to make soap from scratch, the reaction requires a strong alkali, so any suitable alkali would carry the same risk.  A safer alternative won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The main DIY soap options&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make primitive soap from scratch.&lt;/strong&gt;  This goes to the ashes mentioned in the question.  You can make crude soap the way it was made for thousands of years until recent times.  Use animal fats or vegetable oils and extract the lye from ash.  People used a few tricks to get the lye concentration in the right ballpark (like floating an egg or potato in it to see how much it sank).  But the process is crude and very variable.  It's easy to get soap that is irritating to use, or results having off odors or color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a no-lye process, although lye extracted from ash isn't likely to burn your skin off immediately on contact.  The results can turn out pretty nasty, though; you aren't likely to be giving bars of this stuff as gifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make modern soap from scratch.&lt;/strong&gt;  The main difference is precision.  The lye is pure and a known concentration.  The oil is pure.  You can consult reference materials for the exact ratio of lye to oil based on the specific oil.  The results are very predictable and consistent, and the soap isn't harsh.  However, this is the option you are looking to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make modern soap starting with a soap base.&lt;/strong&gt;  With this option, someone else has already done the dangerous part and produced the basic soap component.  You modify that to produce the specific characteristics you want and mold it into bars or a decorative form.  This is a pretty popular approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make detergent from scratch.&lt;/strong&gt;  &amp;quot;Detergent&amp;quot; doesn't refer here to a product used in a washing machine or dishwasher.  I'm using it generically to refer to a soap-like product made directly from synthesized or refined chemicals that perform the functions of soap and have the characteristics you want.  The term is sometimes used more restrictively for a specific class of materials (potassium or sodium salts of a long alkyl chain ending with a sulfonate group; but don't get hung up on that).  Detergents can be better than soap in that they don't bond with the minerals in hard water to form a scum like soap can.  This option may appeal more to chemists than crafters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use plants or make plant-based &amp;quot;soap&amp;quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;  There are a number of plants that contain high amounts of a material called saponin, which behaves like soap.  In some cases (like soap nuts), you can directly use the plant like soap.  In other cases, you can easily extract the saponin and use it like liquid soap.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://lovelygreens.com/9-natural-soap-plants-for-making-lye-free-soap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;9 Natural soap plants for making lye-free soap&lt;/a&gt; is a good place to start for this option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want to avoid working with lye, there are still DIY &amp;quot;soap-making&amp;quot; options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T00:41:55.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10444" CreationDate="2021-07-21T10:35:10.630" Score="2" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the variety of the soap recipes available, I would like to pour the lye/alkali/base solution in the oil mixture slowly and periodically check for pH so I can eyeball it with safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an indication that I've put in too much lye, would you recommend using pH paper? As a countermeasure, I can neutralize it with more oil or vinegar/lemon juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What alternative indicators I can use in this case as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to inexperience I will use the process that requires no heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-07-21T15:38:48.197" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T16:27:09.670" Title="Would you recommend the use of pH paper so I can eyeball the ingredients during soap making?" Tags="|soap-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10443" CreationDate="2021-07-21T16:27:09.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this strategy won't be much help.  pH is affected by both how active the alkali is and its concentration.  When the concentration goes down by a factor of 10, the pH goes down by 1.  Even when the reaction is complete, soap will still register as alkaline because it is made from a strong base and a weak acid; it never gets to neutral even though all of the free ions are bound with each other.  At best, pH is a crude measure for this purpose, not really accurate enough to measure what's going on in the mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also complicated by the fact that the reaction can take days to complete and the soap changes consistency.  The reaction also slows down as the unreacted ions become scarcer.  Measuring pH at the time you mix the ingredients doesn't give useful information.  You can't measure the concentration of the unreacted oil to know what's left.  Because the reaction takes a long time, trying to add lye a little at a time over the course of days presents the same problem as putting it in at the beginning, but then you're also contending with the evolving soap mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go too far with the lye, you can't easily neutralize it with acid because soap will never be neutral and still be soap.  The acid changes its properties even when the soap is still a net alkaline.  Adding more oil puts you back in the situation described before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experience will bring more familiarity with what the soap, itself, is telling you.  Aside from additives that don't substantively affect the soap reaction, a big reason the recipes are different is that different kinds of oil require differences in the lye.  The best strategy is to start with a proven recipe and don't make any substitutions, or look up the lye requirements for the specific oil you want to use, and make a batch.  If that batch doesn't turn out perfect, tweak the recipe the next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-07-21T16:27:09.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-22T02:10:44.360" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about heat treating O1 tool steel. In this process the tool is heated, then quenched in oil, meaning the hot tool is plunged into a bath of oil that is normally preheated to about 200 °F. The tool is then transferred to a tempering furnace where it is held at the tempering temperature for a period of time. This transfer is supposed to happen immediately after the quenching has been accomplished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that after I quench the tool, it is covered in oil (obviously). If I put the tool into the tempering furnace with oil on it, it can damage the furnace because the oil can be converted to fumes which can contaminate the heating elements in the furnace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I try to clean the oil off, I have a problem that I am trying to clean a hot object and as I do so, then the tool is cooling down. If it cools below about 150 °F, then I think the heat treatment will be imperfect because in the case of O1 from what I understand you are never supposed to let it get below that temperature during the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the problem is: How can I get the oil off of the tool without cooling it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2021-07-24T01:04:45.787" LastActivityDate="2021-07-24T01:04:45.787" Title="How do I get quenching oil off of tool without cooling it?" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10447" CreationDate="2021-07-22T03:59:35.910" Score="2" ViewCount="2795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people molding plastic trash--like HDPE (from bottle caps, milk bottles...that type of thing) or plastic bags into a marbled solid plastic. But, in these videos most of them seem to be using metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I wanted to make a custom shape (like something with more detail than a cube/sheet) could I mold the plastic with a silicone mold? Since I know those are a lot easier to be made and more available than a metal mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11541" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-07-22T05:29:09.617" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T06:10:16.403" Title="Can I mold plastic (HDPE or LDPE) in silicone?" Tags="|plastic|mold-making|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10446" CreationDate="2021-07-22T05:27:33.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sort of, within limits .  HDPE and LDPE melt at temperatures that won't damage silicone designed for that temperature (some silicones that are designed for lower temperature ranges can degrade from the heat).  However, HDPE and LDPE don't turn into a liquid.  They're more like sticky putty or dense taffy.  They don't flow nicely into fine detail; you need to force it into the detail.  Also, the plastic shrinks as it cools and it's very hard to cool it perfectly uniformly.  So it warps a lot, and with a lot of force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a metal mold, you can force the melted plastic into the mold detail with some pressure without distorting the mold.  You can control the cooling and keep it under a lot of pressure as it cools so it doesn't warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DIYers often just make blanks of plastic that can be cut into shape and machined.  You can use something like a simple wooden mold lined with oven parchment paper or a non-stick metal pan.  Once the plastic is melted, it is covered with a solid piece that acts like a piston, and clamps are used to compress the plastic flat in the mold.  As the plastic is forced into the nooks and crannies, and cools and shrinks, you periodically tighten the clamps.  When the plastic is completely cool, it's typically a reasonably flat plastic blank with some excess that squeezed out around the edges.  That gets trimmed away, leaving a flat piece of plastic stock.  That's not exactly what you want to do, but that process will give you an idea of what it takes to produce a molded plastic piece with this material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with silicone is that it's very flexible.  For a simple shape, you can make a firm silicone mold that is reinforced with an external shell to keep the shape from distorting too much.  But any small detail will distort under the pressure needed to get a good casting, or via warpage as the plastic cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made molds for things like reasonably thin HDPE brackets out of wood and lined it with a film of thinned silicone so the plastic didn't stick to it.  That worked fine.  If what you want to mold has a significant thickness, it will be a challenge to get an accurate result using a silicone mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible alternative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the item is thick and has some detail, what might work better, although I haven't tried it with HDPE or LDPE, is casting the mold out of something like casting cement (a fine material that preserves surface detail).  Use as many sections as necessary so the mold can be disassembled without damage after using it to make your item, and support that inside something like a wooden box so all of the pressure is compressive force on the cement.  You will probably need some form of mold release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a video of a somewhat similar method used to cast a slingshot body.  The shape was replicated on a bunch layers of corrugated cardboard that were duct-taped together to create the needed thickness.  This was put in a wooden frame and regular concrete was poured around it.  When the concrete hardened, the mock-up was removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mold the HDPE, the concrete mold was laid on a piece of oven parchment paper on a cookie sheet.  The cavity was filled with bits of plastic and the whole thing went in the oven.  As the plastic melted, more was added, pressing the melted plastic into the nooks and crannies until the cavity was full.  It was cooled without any kind of compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result was a bit crude.  The concrete broke up removing the casting, and the casting required a lot of cleanup to get some of the surfaces smooth and uniform.  But the end result looked pretty good.  Cutting the shape out of a flat plastic blank would have been less work, but it demonstrates that cement can work as a mold for a thick HDPE item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-07-22T06:10:16.403" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T06:10:16.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10449" CreationDate="2021-07-22T10:52:03.023" Score="0" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to lino cutting/ printing and currently using the relief printing technique. So far I only chose motives that don't need to be reversed when transferred during the printing process. But now I would like to start with some advanced motives that would need to be reversed when using the print technique e.g. letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some explanations on how to reverse images for transfers using Microsoft word, etc. But I would prefer to draw the motive directly on the lino plate instead of first drawing it in a computer program, reversing it on the computer, and then carving and printing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore my question is - are there any tips and tricks on how to reverse my image when drawing it on the lino and how to check if I am still drawing right during the process?&#xA;I thought maybe simply using a hand mirror could work to check during the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope my question is understandable. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11535" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T13:43:31.720" Title="What can I use to reverse my lino print?" Tags="|cutting|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10448" CreationDate="2021-07-22T13:43:31.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Think backwards.&lt;/strong&gt; (Or as my professor put it, &amp;quot;Back thinkwards.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very uncommon for anyone to &amp;quot;draw first on a computer program and reverse it;&amp;quot; that's an unnecessary extra step and one that, perhaps obviously, did not exist at the birth of printmaking, which has existed far longer than digital technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I typically wouldn't refer to any tool as a &amp;quot;crutch,&amp;quot; in this case, I think it does apply--not to you specifically, but to each person I've worked with who fixates on the idea of &amp;quot;I need to draw it the right way and reverse it.&amp;quot; By leaning hard on the idea of needing those extra processes, you're stopping yourself from learning how to think in reverse. &lt;strong&gt;Learning to letter in reverse isn't all that hard&lt;/strong&gt;; the worst part of it I've ever encountered is second-guessing if I have the letter the right way because I've gotten too accustomed to reading in both directions (this can be double-checked by writing the letter or phrase in the correct direction, or having another person look it over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let go of the &amp;quot;crutch&amp;quot; of technology. Will you make mistakes? Yes, probably. So what? &lt;strong&gt;Mistakes are just learning opportunities&lt;/strong&gt;, and if you stay where it's &amp;quot;safe&amp;quot; you never learn. Work fearlessly, without fretting about mistakes or twisting yourself up about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of something particularly difficult, such as a foreign character set or a design that must face a particular direction, it's okay to lean on technology a bit. But it's still not particularly necessary, given the myriad other ways that can be used to reverse a simple graphic (such as a linguistic character). You can &lt;strong&gt;use a light box&lt;/strong&gt; (or a window if a light box is not available) to trace to the backside of a piece of paper. You can &lt;strong&gt;use graphite transfer processes&lt;/strong&gt; to copy it over to the linoleum block. And yes, you can &lt;strong&gt;use a mirror&lt;/strong&gt; to double-check yourself. But the most useful process is to &lt;strong&gt;learn to think backwards&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;let yourself make mistakes&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T13:43:31.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-22T08:11:22.633" Score="11" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;Needles designed for sewing thick canvas or heavy leather (e.g. on a traditional sailing ship) have a triangular point, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/splicing-needles&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example 1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.htf-hh.com/de/tauwerk-jeglicher-art/takelwerkzeug-zubehoer/takelnadel-profi-qualitaet&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example 2&lt;/a&gt;. (These needles are sometimes also called “rigging needles”, but then again not every “rigging needle” is three-edged.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IDvnn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up photography of three-edges needles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leather: Also known as glovers and as wedge needles, these have a triangular point designed to pierce leather without tearing it; often used on leather-like materials such as vinyl and plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sailmaker: Similar to leather needles, but the triangular point extends further up the shaft; designed for sewing thick canvas or heavy leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_needle#Types_of_hand_sewing_needles&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia s.v. Types of hand sewing needles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only stated reason I have found is that this design supposedly allows the material to be pierced “without tearing it”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would the design of the needle prevent tearing of the material? Is this the (main) reason that needles designed for sewing thick canvas or heavy leather are three-edged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side note: apparently three-edged needles are also used in acupuncture.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11547" OwnerDisplayName="marianoju" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-07-24T09:36:01.133" LastActivityDate="2021-07-24T10:02:36.607" Title="Why are needles designed for sewing thick canvas or heavy leather three-edged?" Tags="|sewing|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10450" CreationDate="2021-07-22T17:08:15.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why are needles designed for sewing thick canvas or heavy leather three-edged?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is quite simple. They are designed this way in order to avoid tearing leather and other thick materials. They also make hand sewing more easy by improving the needles' grip. They are called &lt;em&gt;glovers&lt;/em&gt;, because professionals use specially designed gloves when sewing such materials. The gloves have a metal mesh in the palm area to aid hard piercing leathers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_needle#Types_of_hand_sewing_needles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leather:&lt;/a&gt; Also known as &lt;strong&gt;glovers&lt;/strong&gt; and as wedge needles, these have a triangular point designed to pierce leather without tearing it; often used on leather-like materials such as vinyl and plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used both on many occasions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal &lt;strong&gt;glovers&lt;/strong&gt; are corded with twine or thread that is slightly thicker than the needle hole in order to prevent movement of the thread once in place. The lack of twine or thread movements once they're in place is the key to preventing any tearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can thus understand why gloves are often employed. Normal needles often break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LP9gs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LP9gs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sewing Needle Set - 7 Pieces Hand Repair Upholstery Glover Sail Carpet Leather Curved Canvas Sewing Needles Tool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;                     &lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r18mo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r18mo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lace Lacing Leather Topgrain Latigo Black 50 Foot Spool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.ca/Sewing-Needle-Set-Upholstery-Leather/dp/B07B4N8JYN/ref=sr_1_41?dchild=1&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwruSHBhAtEiwA_qCpprWplDyBD-GJnPYDntnoVseOYOZ8Gn6CKZRSI4ops-omSLr-RmrPZBoCM3UQAvD_BwE&amp;amp;hvadid=208323196714&amp;amp;hvdev=t&amp;amp;hvlocphy=9001486&amp;amp;hvnetw=g&amp;amp;hvqmt=e&amp;amp;hvrand=9596556723198283189&amp;amp;hvtargid=kwd-301661290690&amp;amp;hydadcr=20573_9245673&amp;amp;keywords=glover%20needles&amp;amp;qid=1626981618&amp;amp;sr=8-41&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00O08Z6PW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sewing with leather lace makes so much difference in application with glover needles!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manitobah.ca/collections/moccasins/products/deerskin-slipper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deerskin moccasins&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, like the ones shown below, are a great example!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Au9Szm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Au9Szm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manitobah.ca/collections/moccasins/products/deerskin-slipper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Manitobah.ca&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-07-24T10:02:36.607" LastActivityDate="2021-07-24T10:02:36.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10445" CreationDate="2021-07-23T02:15:45.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Industry always degreases quenched steels before going into the tempering furnace. It is good practice to temper as soon as possible after quenching. I cracked some O-1 parts once, but you could see some cracks as they came out of the hot quench oil. Looking at TTT curves for a similar alloy ( no curve for O-1); martensite starts forming at about 400 F and is mostly finished by 250 F. That is, if it is going to crack it will likely crack by 250 F . So cooling to room temperature to degrease is not likely to cause a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T02:15:45.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10450" CreationDate="2021-07-23T13:25:11.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My theory is that the triangular shape reduces friction when sewing very heavy canvas, thus making the work easier. Unfortunately, I cannot provide any proof for my claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canvas is a plain weave material. The threads form a net of regular squares. If you try pushing a round needle through it, there will be 4 threads touching the needle on all sides. And since the needle in thicker than the tiny space between the threads, it will push the threads outwards into a circular shape, increasing the surface it has to move through and the friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you push a tringular needle through canvas, less of the surface (mostly the 3 edges) are in touch with the threads. That lowers the overall friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a simplified diagram of what I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYSyi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYSyi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-07-23T13:25:11.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2585" CreationDate="2021-07-24T06:53:11.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a cheap (A$2) bonding agent with names such as 'Bond-Crete', or this one in the photo is 'KS Bond'. You can find this type of glue at any &amp;quot;cheap&amp;quot; or discount store (i.e. the $2 Shop, The Reject Shop, etc.). I use this glue to adhere metal to almost everything.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I make my own jewellery and I have not had one glued item come unstuck yet. And I've been using this type of glue for as long as I remember. I have used this glue on items I fit in my 'Fairy Garden' as well, items which have sat outside for over 2 years. The glue is still holding, even after rain, freezing temperatures and moss growing over everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong adhesive. Chloroprene cement.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Use: Bonding vulcanised rubber and leather. Metal, stone, glass, porcelain, sponge, paper, textiles, wood and plastic to themselves or each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TSHpz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TSHpz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TSHpz.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11553" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-07-24T09:32:30.463" LastActivityDate="2021-07-24T09:32:30.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10495" CreationDate="2021-07-24T10:01:13.383" Score="2" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMBeXHnWhsE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; Ι need 600 grams of oil in order to make soap using 80g of lye/sodium hydroxide (NaOH).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I have less oil how can I calculate how much of NaOH I need in order for it to properly react with the oil? Is there some sort of formula that I can use to get the amount of the base that I need by filling in the amount of oil I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the soap I am going to use a mixture of used oils that I already used and boil them after I filter them out using a strainer and coffee filters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest part of the oil that I'll use will be olive oil, although it may also contain some sunflower oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-07-24T10:10:09.100" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T11:40:35.257" Title="How I can calculate how much sodium hydroxide I need for a given amount of oils during soap making?" Tags="|soap-making|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10456" CreationDate="2021-07-24T10:13:58.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with the soap-making process, so someone experienced might want to chip in here, but &lt;strong&gt;there is an online calculator &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.the-sage.com/lyecalc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can fill in the amounts of oils you have, the type and strength of the lye you use, and, optionally, liquids or fats you want to add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-07-24T10:13:58.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10456" CreationDate="2021-07-24T18:17:03.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using an existing recipe, as described in the question, and want to make a smaller batch, just keep the same proportions; if you start with say half the oil, use half the lye (and any other ingredients), and don't make any substitutions (like a different kind or mix of oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would recommend not using used oil, at least for your first attempts at soap making.  There are several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Used oil will be adulterated with substances from whatever foods were cooked in it.  You can filter out bits of stuff and boil off any water, but various compounds from the foods will remain in the oil.  When you react the oil to make soap, those compounds can affect at least the smell and color (not in a good way), and sometimes other characteristics if there's more than trace amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an earlier &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10442/8251&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;, I distinguished between &amp;quot;primitive&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;modern&amp;quot; soap.  Primitive soap can be made from any fatty material you have laying around, including used oil.  But  any impurities in it can make for nasty results.  It will still act like soap.  The odor and color will generally wash off whatever you're cleaning if you rinse it well.  So at least the washed item won't smell worse than it did before you washed it, especially if you hang it in sunlight for a while or douse it with some perfume.  That was adequate when this was the only soap you had.  You can still make crude soap this way as a novelty or to explore life of yesteryear, but be prepared for surprises and to throw away the worst results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While you're learning the art of soap making, predictability is important to learning, and success is important to motivation. If you start with pure, known ingredients and use precision, you can replicate satisfying results and have a basis for tweaking them the next time.  Primitive soap will turn out a little different each time, even if you measure the ingredients carefully.  Results will be very hit or miss, and you won't learn from the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People sometimes worry about wasting ingredients on their first few failures.  Starting with waste ingredients is a way to see how the process works and decide if they're interested in pursuing it.  That's likely to lead to the first attempts being failures and deciding that it isn't worth pursuing.  If you start with making modern soap, you will gain some experience making good soap in a controlled way, which will give you a basis for comparison.  Then experiment with primitive soap and you'll be able to recognize what is a deviation from the expected results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-07-24T18:17:03.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3667" CreationDate="2021-07-25T14:27:41.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly no, gel pens are water-based and don't adhere well to plastics. You'll want to use a ballpoint pen because the ink is &lt;a href=&quot;https://unsharpen.com/what-is-a-ballpoint-pen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sticky and oil-based&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be semi-permanent, though you could use an erasable ballpoint pen like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://pilotpen.us/brands/frixion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pilot Frixion&lt;/a&gt; which can be wiped up with no problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11530" LastActivityDate="2021-07-25T14:27:41.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10463" CreationDate="2021-07-26T16:15:40.410" Score="3" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to mend the elasticized shoulder straps of a dress. The straps are fraying along the edges. The material of the dress is synthetic, with a close-knit weave and four-way stretch. I do not have access to a sewing machine, so I would be hand-sewing. I understand that zigzag stitches are commonly used with stretchy fabrics, but I'm unsure if that would be the best way to reinforce an edge. I also considered a blanket stitch, but I don't know if that would work with a stretchy fabric. What would be the best stitch or mending method for this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11561" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T17:36:00.540" Title="What is the best way to reinforce/mend a fraying elastic strap by hand?" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-27T15:59:13.803" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve never read a graph diagram pattern for knitting. I’m having a really hard time getting this pattern right. I thought I was doing it the right way, but I had too many remaining stitches at the end. Can anyone write this out for me in a written pattern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqlNL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqlNL.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjDzW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjDzW.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Click images for larger versions&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="11579" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-07-27T16:32:35.987" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T08:07:39.627" Title="How to read a graph knitting pattern" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10460" CreationDate="2021-07-27T18:11:34.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, I also might start with a whipstitch just to clean up the edges. Cut away the fray or use fray check before whip stitching by hand. Whipstitch is just a fast and looser blanket stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, I would remove the old straps and tack on new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;matching elastic (easiest method and it comes in more colors these&#xA;days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ribbon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bias tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trim - look up trim at your favorite fabric/craft store for other ideas (lace, twisted cord, eyelet, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may be able to cut the bottom of the dress and recreate the strap with the same fabric, but it won’t be as stretchy. If you need it to be stretchy and use this method, cut the length longer than needed for each side and wrap it around the correct length elastic. You’ll want to use an iron to make it easier to hand stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use ribbon, It’s an opportunity to give it new straps and then decorate the dress with ribbon fringe somewhere else on the dress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-07-27T18:25:46.863" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T18:25:46.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10462" CreationDate="2021-07-27T20:41:16.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote out the chart below, but here are some general tips that will help you work from future charts. FWIW, this is not a very user-friendly chart. There are some things you can do to make it easier to read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I find that long sections of the same stitch are rather difficult to read off of a chart. It helps to count out the number of stitches in each section, and write the stitch count directly on the chart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you work the first row on the RS, it will be worked as K8 in MC, K1 in CC, K8 in MC. So you would write &amp;quot;8&amp;quot; in each of the MC sections on the first row. There's no need to write in &amp;quot;1&amp;quot; on the MC section because you can see at a quick glance that it's only one square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It will help if you write row numbers along the sides of the chart, so you can  use a row counter to keep track of which row you're on. Here's an example of a chart with row and column numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zWyY.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zWyY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer, instead of writing in stitch counts, you could add heavier-weight lines at regular intervals, eg every 5 or 10 rows and columns. I like to mark my charts out in 3x3 boxes, because I can quickly see how many stitches are in a group of 3 or fewer without stopping to count. Here's an example of a chart with heavier-weight lines at regular intervals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5Zbo.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5Zbo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the instructions for your chart. &amp;quot;MC&amp;quot; means main color. &amp;quot;CC&amp;quot; means contrasting color. Each row should have 17 sts. I recommend double-checking my math before you begin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 8, CC 1, MC 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 7, CC 3, MC 7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 6, CC 5, MC 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 5, CC 7, MC 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 4, CC 9, MC 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 3, CC 11, MC 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 2, CC 13, MC 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat previous row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 1, CC 15, MC 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat previous row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 17&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat row 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat row 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat row 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat row 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat row 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat row 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat row 11 (row 11 has now been worked 8 times altogether)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 1, CC 7, MC 1, CC 7, MC 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 1, CC 6, MC 3, CC 6, MC 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MC 2, CC 4, MC 5, CC 4, MC 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T20:41:16.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10819" CreationDate="2021-07-28T18:01:13.063" Score="4" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you have &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;6B&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; pencil from some reputed brand. You can create various degrees of shades using it. For example, if you use less pressure and hold it at a very low angle (slanted), it will give lighter shades, and if you use normal pressure, it will give darker values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, &lt;strong&gt;I want to know if creating lighter shades from a darker pencil increases its chances of more smudging and smearing (or maybe even blurring).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I feel &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, and my theory is that when we use less pressure, the graphite is not properly 'inserted' into paper texture. But when we use more pressure, it is more attached to the paper. So that's why I feel so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's only my speculation and personal observation from a few times. I have tested it and it works especially when I have to create a blur effect. I don't know for sure. I could be wrong too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something similar has been briefly mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/377/2568&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note, pencils in the B range are softer and will smudge more and more obviously, so be extra careful with them. 4H and higher shouldn't smear very much at all, but they give you much lighter values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I want to know in detail if creating lighter shades from darker (soft) pencils actually increases the chance of getting it smudged and smeared?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: &lt;strong&gt;In case it helps to know why I want an answer:&lt;/strong&gt; I want to know because I can get lighter shades from a lighter grade like &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;4B&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;3B&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; pencil instead of using a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;6B&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; with less pressure. So that will decrease the chances of smudging. Both when we are drawing and after the drawing is done and we review it after years!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-05T09:17:01.930" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T09:17:59.087" Title="Does creating lighter shades from darker pencils actually increase the chances of it getting smudged and smeared?" Tags="|drawing|pencils|sketching|graphite|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-28T19:51:21.907" Score="3" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was simply searching for erasers for artists online, and I got overwhelmed after finding out that there are so many types of erasers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I watched some videos about different types of erasers which artists use. I liked all of them. Each seemed to work differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I noticed the terms &lt;em&gt;vinyl eraser, plastic eraser, gum erasers&lt;/em&gt; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm broadly concerned about following 3 types or categories of products:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some examples of &lt;strong&gt;plastic erasers&lt;/strong&gt; I found are Tombow MONO Plastic Eraser and Staedtler Mars Plastic Eraser:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AnxZu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AnxZu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ursr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ursr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I found the term &lt;strong&gt;vinyl eraser&lt;/strong&gt; at some sites. Here's one image I managed to find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARXOc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARXOc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The third type I'm interested in is &lt;strong&gt;normal&lt;/strong&gt; erasers, by which I mean the erasers I have always used in school. They are far cheaper than the others. I never noticed any difference between these cheap erasers (see 2 examples below). Both worked in very much the same way, so I'd guess the material is the same. These are available in a pack of 20 for less than $1 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't know what material is used, if it's also &lt;em&gt;vinyl&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;plastic&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;rubber&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;gum eraser&lt;/em&gt; which I had mentioned earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HwuoL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HwuoL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example is an Indian brand called NATARAJ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9YUD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U9YUD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confused because all more or less look same. Working is a bit different. &lt;strong&gt;So what's the basic difference between these 3 categories of erasers, especially in terms of material used?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="2568" LastEditDate="2021-07-29T10:59:31.703" LastActivityDate="2021-07-29T10:59:31.703" Title="What are the basic differences between vinyl, normal (less expensive), and plastic erasers?" Tags="|erasers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2021-09-19T11:38:25.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10468" CreationDate="2021-07-29T12:46:49.677" Score="2" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read an &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/8668/2568&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; here which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing technical drawings on a smooth, heavyweight paper, or&#xA;paper with a &amp;quot;shiny&amp;quot; surface due to size, plastic erasers will be the&#xA;way to go most of the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you are producing artwork using soft textured&#xA;papers you will probably need kneaded (gummy) erasers, as rubber and&#xA;vinyl wil tend to flatten the areas you erase, leaving &amp;quot;shiny&amp;quot; spots,&#xA;and any abrasive in the eraser will fray the surface or even tear the&#xA;paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://keetonsonline.wordpress.com/2013/11/14/5-types-of-erasers-every-artist-should-know-about/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; also mentions something similar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinyl erasers, also called plastic erasers, are the toughest erasers&#xA;on this list. If not used carefully, they can easily tear through&#xA;paper. These erasers are definitely handy as they can erase almost&#xA;anything, even ink!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm doubtful about these. Because I was checking reviews online about &lt;em&gt;Tombow Mono Plastic Eraser&lt;/em&gt; and no one mentioned such thing like it will tear or harm the paper. Further it has very good reviews on Amazon. And it mentions that it does not damage the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it could be possible that vinyl is a form of plastic eraser which is harsh on paper, so it removes &lt;strong&gt;ink&lt;/strong&gt; too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the quotes from answer I mentioned above, has probably nothing to do with ink. So I'm not really sure if I should use plastic erasers like the one I mentioned above, or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I conclude from the quotes I mentioned is that you should use Plastic erasers on a smooth and heavy paper, like Canson Bristol smooth paper. (You should use gum erasers?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I want to talk specifically about non-smooth and less heavy paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a sketchbook like this, with 160 gsm page. Note that paper is not very smooth. It has some visible texture, just like most casual non expensive sketchbooks. One example is the sketchbooks from brand named Brustro (in case you want to have a look, you can find it by searching the name).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7kWA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7kWA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, I'm not really sure if those statements were true for all kinds of plastic erasers or some certain category of plastic/vinyl erasers.&lt;/strong&gt; What should I conclude more accurately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastActivityDate="2021-07-30T04:04:25.297" Title="Are all plastic erasers not recommended or harmful for non-smooth papers like a casual sketchbook?" Tags="|paper|plastic|erasers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10467" CreationDate="2021-07-30T04:04:25.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue isn't quite as cut and dry as the title of the question.  Paper comes in a range of &amp;quot;non-smoothness&amp;quot;, tailored to different kinds of media and different appearances.  The effectiveness of plastic erasers depends somewhat on the paper, the media you're applying to it, and using the eraser properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper and Media&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With smooth paper, the erasable media you are probably drawing with is pencil.  Vinyl erasers are great for that combination.  But you can also use pencils with non-smooth paper.  Those papers will be harder to erase pencil from.  Vinyl erasers will still erase pencil well.  But if the pencil marks are well-embedded, you'll be tempted to apply excessive pressure, which could flatten the paper's surface texture and erase tooth, turning the surface smooth and maybe shiny.  That will affect the surface appearance, but it won't interfere with your ability to redraw with pencil in the same spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using toothy paper because you're drawing with powdery media (like charcoal or pastels), there are several differences.  The tooth is necessary; if aggressive erasure turns the surface smooth, it will noticeably affect the appearance of the media that is subsequently applied.  Powdery media also loads up the eraser more.  A kneaded eraser is better for this combination because it can hold more media on its surface than a vinyl one, and it's harder to abuse the paper with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Erasers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both kneaded erasers and vinyl erasers are designed to work mainly by lifting the media off the paper.  The media sticks to the eraser better than it sticks to the paper.  These aren't intended to abrade the surface of the paper to remove paper fibers, taking the media with it.  Most of what the eraser will remove will come off without a lot of pressure.  Vinyl erasers can remove some inks if the ink is mostly just sitting on the paper surface.  The ink sticks to the eraser and pulls off the paper; it isn't a matter of the eraser being harsh on the paper like the abrasive ink erasers of yesteryear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is stubborn residue, the least destructive way to remove it is to use a different kind of eraser rather than excessive pressure that will eventually tear up the paper.  For example, residue that doesn't readily stick to the eraser and come off may be more deeply embedded in the paper fibers.  A different type of eraser may be more effective at knocking those loose or making good enough contact with it to lift it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is still residue that the vinyl or kneaded eraser won't remove with light pressure, it may require abrading some of the paper surface.  Doing that by applying a lot of pressure on a soft eraser will create friction that will rip off arbitrary surface fibers at the weakest point.  A rubber eraser, like a Pink Pearl, contains some abrasive.  Light rubbing with it will sand away some paper surface in a more controlled way to remove the least amount of paper needed to get rid of the residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With practice, you'll develop a feel for how much pressure will deliver whatever the eraser is capable of without damaging the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-07-30T04:04:25.297" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2144" CreationDate="2021-07-30T09:16:17.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll share my experience and opinions. When I was a beginner, I didn't know much about paper types and pencil grades. I would use a normal pencil that I would use in school. It was probably or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;HB&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. And I used a thin paper. I didn't know about paper weight (GSM) thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I made a few drawings, I did better than I had imagined, but in a few days I started noticing problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the paper was getting distorted (you could notice by checking the back side of paper), because I used too much pressure to create darker shades. And then I had experience of getting irritated because drawing hairs in portraits seemed boring. It would look more time consuming to me, then it actually should take, because with a hard and lighter pencil, it's not easily possible to create the look and feel you want, especially the darker areas. You have to do some hard work. At that moment, I would often ask myself it it's really boring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, I faced the problem of blending/blur. I couldn't easily do it because the pencil was hard and there wasn't enough graphite to smudge or get blur effect. Again, this would sometimes overwhelm me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if by mistake I would apply too much pressure to create darker lines, and later I would realize I need to erase it as it's gone wrong, I wasn't so easy to erase it with my non expensive eraser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I have to give an advice to beginners now, I'd tell you following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go for a softer (darker) pencil. Anything between &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;5B&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; should be fine. You can easily create lighter and darker shades. Further you won't need that much pressure. When you're beginner, you don't want to apply too much pressure. If you feel you also need a separate pencil for outlines or rough lines, you can buy maybe &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;HB&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A softer (dark) pencil is a bit easy to blend (especially when you apply the graphite gently and then smudge it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not always, but sometimes, when you start working with a less than suitable tool for something for which you have a little more expectations and capabilities, you might feel you're doing bad work. But that's not always true.  It's a really good thing to see and experience basic things on your own, but sometimes, a little guidance can help you stay positive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;HB&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; isn't a bad pencil or less than any other pencil. Like every other, it has its own value. Once you're experienced, you can even create good sketches with &lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;HB&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastActivityDate="2021-07-30T09:16:17.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-07-30T11:39:07.130" Score="5" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been asked by a great friend to crochet a baby blanket for them. They would be paying the yarn, so I asked them to find a pattern and buy the yarn. She's sent me a few patterns to check if they're all within my skills, and that's where the trouble starts: All the patterns she found had holes in it. I forgot to warn her about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've always heard that if you make anything for babies, it shouldn't have holes in it that they can tangle their tiny fingers or toes in, to avoid injuries similar to those of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hair_tourniquet&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hair tourniquet&lt;/a&gt;. I told my friend and so far she's been very understanding, and she's wanting to go with a 'no-holes' blanket if needed. But she's very in love with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.perapasha.nl/image/cache/catalog/CAL-pakketten/Katia-Nana-cal-2021-01-799x1000.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this pattern&lt;/a&gt;. The description I've found says it is to be a 'decorative blanket', but she really wants something similar for daily use and asked me if there isn't any way to make that safe for the future baby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I can come up with is putting fabric on one side of the blanket, I've done that a few times to make blankets with holes like that warmer. But I don't think it will make the blanket any safer: A baby can still get their fingers or toes tangled into the holes and get injured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Has anyone here ever baby-proofed a blanket with holes like that? If so, how did you do it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastActivityDate="2021-07-31T06:30:15.933" Title="Can a crochet pattern for a blanket that has holes in it be made safe for a baby?" Tags="|crocheting|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10472" CreationDate="2021-07-30T12:36:08.463" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier, for past 3 years I used to use at least 7 Staedtler pencils (6H, 4H, HB, 2B, 3B, 4B, 6B, 9B) for a single portrait drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In last 1 year, I reduced it to around 5 pencils (2H, HB, 4B, 6B, 9B).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason was that I felt it a bit overwhelming and complicated to manage more grades (&lt;strong&gt;by overwhelm and complicate here I mean I feel it a bit tedious to switch between 7-8 pencils while I draw a single portrait&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm about to reduce it to even less. 3 or maximum 4 (HB, 3B, 5B, 8B) from Faber Castell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like mentioned before the biggest reason is I want to make it less complicated. I mean managing pencils and constantly brainstorming which pencil to use for different parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I know it totally depends on how you use pencils. And it depends on individual skills and mentality. I know people who use a lot more grades and I know people who use only 2-3 grades. I'm also sure I won't be having any end result difference in my own work because of reducing grades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would really like to know one thing. As we know there are around 16-20 grades of pencils available. And different people choose different grades. I really don't know if using more than 5-6 grades is very common or using less than 5 grades is more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any disadvantages or pros and cons of using more pencils, say more than 5 for a single portrait drawing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or lesser, yet enough, number of pencils make things actually less complicated?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know this, because if someone is a beginner, like I was once, he can make probably make a mistake of unnecessarily choosing more grades (like I chose 7-8 in my initial years). I made that mistake because I just heard what people are doing. I didn't think much about what &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; need. In last 1 year I realized I really didn't need that much grades for most of my work, whether it's portrait or other object drawing or sketching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Despite I've tried to be specific, I feel this question might generate some degree of opinions, but if possible please help to improve this question even more so it's less opinion based. I feel it would be really helpful to know if there are any known experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="2568" LastEditDate="2021-07-30T13:52:11.220" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T09:12:50.563" Title="Are there any pros and cons of using more than 5-6 grades of pencils for a single drawing especially a portrait?" Tags="|drawing|portrait-drawing|graphite|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10471" CreationDate="2021-07-30T13:45:58.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this may be a very opinion-based topic, however I'll give what I think is my best take on it. I am married to a proper artist, I studied technical drawing and architecture at school, and one of my 3 children creates artworks continually so we have a lot of materials, but very different styles. And all three of us will always go for a full range of pencils, inks, paints, etc so that we don't have to try and make do with &amp;quot;almost right&amp;quot; - I use very specific ones for my line work etc, and for different categories of shading, and it would annoy me to have to use one that wasn't &amp;quot;correct&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife uses a full continuum of pencils for all the textures they can give her, and my daughter seems to almost randomly choose them at times, but her artwork comes out looking beautiful, so it's all good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even for one artwork, this is opinion-based. Some folks will just use one pencil for an entire drawing, others will use multiples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Pros of having a full range of pencils:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will always have the one best suited for the task available - no need to use one that's almost right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Cons of having a full range:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are overwhelmed by choice then you may find this very hard. You may spend lots of time trying to decide between your 5B and your 6B for dark shading, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think in your case, if you are budget constrained, and don't like too much choice, you will be best suited to having that limited range and using the one that gives you the closest effect to that which you need. Remember, there is no right or wrong in art - don't overthink things, and just enjoy your drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="358" LastEditDate="2021-08-02T09:12:50.563" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T09:12:50.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10931" CreationDate="2021-07-30T15:56:44.313" Score="3" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;People often ask me to rebind their Missals (the books that Catholics use at Church), and they always have a special bookmark system of 5 different coloured 1/4&amp;quot; wide, solid-colour ribbons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I can easily make these bookmarks, but I am having a hard time figuring out what kind of ribbon to get.  The ribbon you buy at the hobby stores is too stiff and they slice into the paper of the pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen ribbon that was really soft, but I don't know what it is made from or where to get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me some ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I really need is some quality, supple, soft ribbon.  I am totally lost as to what to even google for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastEditorUserId="8602" LastEditDate="2021-07-31T01:45:00.053" LastActivityDate="2022-02-22T19:33:16.550" Title="What is the best ribbon to make multi-bookmarks?" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|book-binding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10470" CreationDate="2021-07-31T06:30:15.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I think it is safe:&lt;/em&gt; these blankets are made from soft material and most yarn stretches. It is far more likely that the yarn will tear than that it causes injury. Also, these holes are much larger than a baby's fingers or toes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For baby proofing: &lt;em&gt;use yarn that is recommended for babies' stuff!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For example, no yearn that give bleeds colour, no unsafe synthetic material, no thread that does not stretch,...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to avoid having holes, you could also use fabric liner and sew the blanket to a cotton sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2021-07-31T06:30:15.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10473" CreationDate="2021-07-31T09:28:40.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're looking for is actually called &amp;quot;Bible ribbon&amp;quot; bookmark. They come with 5 or 8 colored ribbons, like this example from ChurchSupplyer.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqPlJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqPlJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tab can be inserted into the spine of the book and the ribbons used as bookmarks. There are many more examples of that kind in different online shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can see, they are all &lt;strong&gt;grosgrain woven ribbons&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm honestly a little supprised that this is used for bookmarks because it has a certain stiffness and doesn't bend along the widths of the ribbon. Notice the ribs across the ribbon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUVfk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUVfk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative that will probably work is &lt;strong&gt;cotton twill tape&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a sewing supply and it's very supple and soft and easily bent or folded. You'll have more luck finding it in sewing or quilting shops. The only problem could be finding colored twill tape in your required width, because it's mostly only available in black and white. Notice the heringbone pattern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZ1Jz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZ1Jz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Satin bibbon, which you can usually find in craft stores, is woven in a different way to make the surface very smooth and shiny. It's also usually rather thin and stiff and I can imagine how easily it can cut the pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-07-31T09:28:40.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10477" CreationDate="2021-08-02T06:19:17.317" Score="3" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a strange and unexpected thing recently. I never paid attention to details of pencils because I had assumed if a pencil is from a well known brand, they would be consistent for same series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought Faber Castell &lt;strong&gt;5B&lt;/strong&gt; (12 piece) pencils of &lt;strong&gt;9000&lt;/strong&gt; series, which came in a bit old &lt;strong&gt;cardboard&lt;/strong&gt;/hard paper box. Its date of first availability was around &lt;strong&gt;2010&lt;/strong&gt; on Amazon. The 12 pencil costed me about 6 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have some other pencils like HB to 8B, which were part of a set of 6 pencils, and came in a &lt;strong&gt;metallic&lt;/strong&gt; box. &lt;strong&gt;For this question, let's take example of only one, 8B&lt;/strong&gt;. Its date of first availability was around &lt;strong&gt;2019&lt;/strong&gt; on Amazon. 6 pencils  also costed me about 6 USD (strange that per pencil price is double here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8B has a bit different in terms of look and feel of printed text. I mean the information and branding is exactly same for both 5B and 8B. But there are slight differences in thickness of fonts and color of the golden painted ring (which is at the end of pencil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of 8B, the ring was a bit golden color and for 5B it was bit silver like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 5B, the green color was a bit unsaturated (like bit black green). And the green color was not smooth on pencil. It was obvious that they weren't dried properly after coloring was done because I can see the green color spots inside the paper/card box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 8B, it was like fresh and bright green (subtle difference, not sure you'd notice in the images) and there was no as such problem of coloring. They look like more finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see some of the differences in following images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rVZ6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8rVZ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkoFk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkoFk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all these things make me guess that despite having same series, the 5B were manufactured years ago and 8B were manufactured recently. I don't know, but these personal evidences make me really feel so. (I don't have any clear proof so I guess I have no right to make a strict statement on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now comes the more important thing. The wood&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8B felt a bit better when I was sharpening them with sharpener. The wood was a bit whiter than the 5B and smooth too. 5B wood was breaking easily in parts and wasn't smooth. You can notice the difference in following pencils:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hW0mc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hW0mc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4W0C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4W0C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This difference was a bit significant and made me eventually ask this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One alternate theory that could explain this is: 5Bs are manufactured locally in my country and it's a duplicate product. But that's highly unlikely. &lt;strong&gt;Because I did not notice any problem in working of pencils&lt;/strong&gt;. Worked just like other grades. Further the reviews on Amazon are excellent for both pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to buy 2 or 3 more grades (12 each) and now I'm just thinking if I should go with what's available irrespective of quality of wood. Or if it's actually a quality problem, I would try to find the latest ones somewhere (if I could). So your views would help me know things better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I had said, I had believed that if a pencil is made by well known brand, it would be consistent in terms of quality. But now I'm really curious. If even a well known brand can have manufacturing faults and still end up in market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So is it possible that with such a time span of manufacturing, say a decade, the wood used in newer ones could be a bit better? Or alternatively, maybe the wood in older pencils turned a bit bad with time?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I have nothing against Faber Castell or any particular brand. It's just I noticed these unexpected wood differences, which were very obvious. So I just want to go into details to know some truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="2568" LastEditDate="2021-08-02T13:32:37.630" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T12:07:13.737" Title="Is it possible that the wood used in newer pencils could be a bit better than old ones from same series? Or wood could degrade with time?" Tags="|wood|pencils|graphite|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10476" CreationDate="2021-08-02T16:53:22.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal experience is that high quality pencils tend to have better quality wood which can be sharpened easily, while cheaper pencils can have varying quality of wood. Sometimes it's pure chance how hard or soft the wood is and you can have very different wood in the same batch of pencils and sometimes even in the same pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a short &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/qqs3fxfmWr4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video about how pencils are made&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see that the manufacturing begins with wood slats in which 6 grooves for 6 leads are cut. The machine glues a second grooved slat on top of the first and cuts the 6 pencils from each slat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the things that can influence how well a sharpener can cut the wood are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The type and density of the wood. Trees that grew slower have finer rings and denser wood, which makes them somewhat harder to sharpen but gives the shavings more stability. Wood that grew quicker has thicker rings which may fray while sharpening, but it's usually also cheaper. Some trees tend to have channels running through the wood that become holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The grain and orientation of the wood. Some slats are cut from closer to the center of the tree (those have rings of a smaller radius) and some from closer to the bark (those have rings of a bigger radius). Some slats end up with the center of their rings facing the lead, some facing the outside. Since it's easy to cut the wood with the grain but it may rip if cut against the grain, it's pure chance how well an individual pencil can be sharpened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blade of your sharpener. If your sharpener is blunt, it will rip the wood instead of cutting it. That doesn't &lt;em&gt;cause&lt;/em&gt; the problem, but it makes the diffences in wood much more obvious. A new sharpener may be able to get a whole shaving from your 5B pencil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the result of my little experiment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First: 3 pencils sharpened by a hand crank sharpener. You can clearly see wood grain in the first one. The 2 yellow ones are from the same package and of same age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GRoCB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GRoCB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: the same pencils &lt;s&gt;tortured&lt;/s&gt; sharpened with an old, blunt sharpener. The first one ripped where the sharpener had to cut against the grain of the wood. The second one is still the smoothest and the shaving is completely intact. The third one clearly shows fraying where the wood isn't as dense and the shaving has holes along the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8BDb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8BDb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T16:53:22.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10480" CreationDate="2021-08-03T14:11:43.963" Score="2" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Semi-newb crafter here. I have a few years worth of old calendars I ordered with photos of our animals and family on heavy card-stock paper. My plan is to use an X-Acto knife, cut the photos out, and create a collage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of paper or canvas should I plan to use? I know I'll need to cut all the pictures first to figure out the size. Should this be framed? I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8332/add-support-to-large-collage-to-prevent-warping-and-tearing/8334#8334&quot;&gt;post about materials for supporting a collage and glue, re: painting&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not sure I'll need to paint, but I am open to being wrong here because I have no clue how to do this properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11619" LastEditorUserId="11627" LastEditDate="2021-08-05T17:38:07.183" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T17:38:07.183" Title="What are the best mediums for creating a collage?" Tags="|material-selection|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2585" CreationDate="2021-08-04T15:00:56.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using a 2 part epoxy resin: Gorilla offers a good one. 2 part epoxy resins require 2 elements to complete the adhesive solution -  a resin and a hardener. Typically after mixing, there is a short curing/ hardening period. Some advantages of this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strong adhesion to similar and dissimilar substrates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holds strong against shearing and tension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very long lasting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article for more info: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hotmelt.com/blogs/blog/8-benefits-of-using-a-two-part-epoxy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.hotmelt.com/blogs/blog/8-benefits-of-using-a-two-part-epoxy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11627" LastEditorUserId="11627" LastEditDate="2021-08-04T15:13:06.503" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T15:13:06.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10478" CreationDate="2021-08-04T15:05:03.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have participated in 3 collage workshops so far and everyone began with the words - the best thing about making a collage is, that you are completely free in your creation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally like to use cardboard or thicker paper as the base to glue on the cuttings.&#xA;But I also used a canvas to glue on beer labels and clothing labels. Or a normal colored paper when I tried the &amp;quot;tear&amp;quot; technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider if you would like to hang up your collage and how heavy, wavy, etc. the paper or other material is you glue on when choosing the base. Depending on that you might wanna use a canvas, cardboard, thicker paper, or normal paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use craft glue as a finish on top of your collage but that's optional.&#xA;A lot of artists recommending using spray glue. This makes the glue less visible and avoids bumps or bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really up to you, what you feel comfortable with using :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11535" LastActivityDate="2021-08-04T15:05:03.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10476" CreationDate="2021-08-05T12:07:13.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're asking about the specifics of a brand, I took a long and enjoyable dive into some of the information that is quite readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.meta.stackexchange.com/users/324/stephie&quot;&gt;Stephie&lt;/a&gt; mentioned in the comments on &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/474/would-it-be-on-topic-if-i-ask-questions-about-a-specific-brand&quot;&gt;the question you raised on Meta&lt;/a&gt;, it is likely that products available in different countries were manufactured in different factories.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Furthermore, any self-respecting brand would want to improve the quality of their materials when and where they can. But availability, changing regulations, and changing costs will also have an influence on the final product (as an example, in 2001 Faber-Castell started painting their pencils using a water-based paint instead of a solvent-based (aceton) one because of health- and environmental reasons (and, not unimportantly, to keep being able to produce in Germany).&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Changes in manufacturing can also account for the subtle difference in colour, but so can time and storage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Faber-Castell has 16 different manufacturing plants. Most of these specialize in a certain type of product.&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (See also [here][3].)  &#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sources of the wood used for production have changed throughout the years. Originally it seems only cedar wood was used&lt;sup&gt;6&lt;/sup&gt;, but, throughout the decades, manufacturing plants have been established in different locations around the world, undoubtedly resulting in at least slightly different consistencies of wood in similar products (if of the same type at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;With a company history of almost 260 years, Faber-Castell currently produces 2.3 billion pencil units annually in three production plants worldwide.&amp;quot; &lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;the mid-80's&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, Faber-Castell has a Caribbean Pine plantation in Brazil.&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In 1998, Faber-Castell &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;builds a production site for wood pencil slats in  Costa  Rica – using FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified gmelina wood. Production of wood-cased pencils commences in 2002&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://info.fsc.org/details.php?id=a02f300000e0nYUAAY&amp;amp;type=certificate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the FSC website&lt;/a&gt;, the plantations owned by Faber-Castell apparently produce wood of the following species for pencils:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alstonia scholaris (L.) R.Br.&lt;/em&gt; [Blackboard tree]&lt;em&gt;; Calocedrus decurrens&lt;/em&gt; [California incense-cedar]&lt;em&gt;; Gmelina arborea Roxb.&lt;/em&gt; [&amp;quot;gamhar&amp;quot;]&lt;em&gt;; Pinus caribaea&lt;/em&gt; [Caribbean pine]&lt;em&gt;; Populus trichocarpa x P. deltoides (TxD) hybrid&lt;/em&gt; [a black cottonwood/eastern cottonwood hybrid]&lt;em&gt;; Tilia amurensis&lt;/em&gt; [Amur linden]&lt;em&gt;; Tilia mandshurica&lt;/em&gt; [Manchurian lime]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main species used for pencil production seem to be the Californian cedar and the Brazilian pine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;The highest quality of wood for pencils and colour pencils is produced by the Californian cedar and the Brazilian pine&lt;/em&gt; [note: likely the &lt;em&gt;Caribbean&lt;/em&gt; pine] &lt;em&gt;that are cultivated in Faber-Castell’s own plantations.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Cedar wood is almost knot-free, long-fibred and  characterised by a consistent growth pattern due to minimal seasonal  variations in California. It can therefore be easily and cleanly sharpened, which is a very important aspect for a quality pencil.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; &lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l2Bqs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l2Bqs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.penvibe.com/what-wood-are-pencils-made-of/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;“&lt;em&gt;The Pinus caribaea hondurensis is a Caribbean species, especially stress-resistant and with the ability to survive dry periods of up to six months,” explains the expert. “It also grows quickly in this tropical climate and working with its soft wood is easy. That includes sharpening processes, for example, which makes it the perfect species for pencil production.&lt;/em&gt;”&amp;quot; &lt;sup&gt;5&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cL5P5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cL5P5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.penvibe.com/what-wood-are-pencils-made-of/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author of &lt;em&gt;Polar Pencil Pusher&lt;/em&gt; is similarly at a loss &lt;a href=&quot;https://polarpencilpusher.home.blog/2019/03/31/pencil-review-faber-castell-9000-hb-and-2b/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to what the exact type of wood used is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;The species of wood used for the Castell 9000 is a mystery to me. It doesn’t look or smell like cedar, the “default” for high-end pencils. It doesn’t actually smell like much of anything. The literature from Faber-Castell indicates only that they are made of solid wood that is cultivated for that purpose in Colombia. I have heard rumors on the internet that it’s pine; I’d buy that, but can’t say for certain.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else noteworthy here is that the wood of the pencils in the pictures of that article is similar to that of your 8B pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;In your image comparing the shafts of the 5B and 8B pencils, you can clearly see the 5B wood has a coarser texture, resulting in a higher chance of a sharpener getting caught up in the wood and having to use more power which in turn increases the chances of the lead breaking.  &#xA;This difference could indeed be due to age, but I doubt the structure (the size of the fibers) could change so much throughout a decade.  &#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on all this information, &lt;strong&gt;I think the two pencils have indeed been made of different kinds of wood.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;strong&gt;I'm assuming the silver line on the tip of the pencil, which used to be golden, is something relatively new&lt;/strong&gt;, based on date-restricted image searches (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=faber%20castell%20pencil%209000%20before%3A2011-12-31&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwi7qa2m55nyAhXHl4sKHactCtgQ2-cCegQIABAA&amp;amp;oq=faber%20castell%20pencil%209000%20before%3A2011-12-31&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;). I don't know exactly what year these got switched, but likely somewhere in the early 2010's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;Sources:&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/p00gk5k0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Global Business - Quick on the Draw&lt;/a&gt;, on BCC Sounds.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But they state in their Product Knowledge Manual (see Source #2) that they're &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;the only company to consistently use environmentally friendly water-based paint &lt;strong&gt;in its  European pencil production&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, which means at least that they use different production standards for this aspect of their products, something that only enforces the idea that other materials might also very well differ between manufacturing locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faber-Castell#Offices&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry on Faber-Castell&lt;/a&gt;; 'Offices'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.faber-castell.com/%7E/media/Faber-Castell/brochures/Warenkundehandbuch_ENGL.ashx?la=en-GLOB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Product Knowledge Manual&lt;/a&gt; (PDF), p. 12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.faber-castell.com/%7E/media/Faber-Castell/brochures/Warenkundehandbuch_ENGL.ashx?la=en-GLOB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Product Knowledge Manual&lt;/a&gt; (PDF), p. 25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5: &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.faber-castell.eu/corporate/magazin/forestry-management-prata&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'From Pine to Pencil'&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, article on faber-castell.eu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T12:07:13.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10485" CreationDate="2021-08-05T12:47:57.613" Score="2" ViewCount="1186" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because lye is somewhat dangerous I thought that some gloves used during cleaning can also protect me when handling lye during the soap making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gloves that I have in my mind are the thick yellow ones such as these &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/Playtex-Living-Combo-Medium-2-Pack-Medium/641091619?wpa_bd=&amp;amp;wpa_pg_seller_id=F55CDC31AB754BB68FE0B39041159D63&amp;amp;wpa_ref_id=wpaqs:SdT1DeKd2XD93AM-88nFGCqRmyhlkR5QcnoX26fCEddIYPgQAsp6jmUmkwzZFwGZ9YYJoTUwhNTE3zkULQJUA7TlWPLZsKt0DTiCwYnm6YsEHOCR0DBemhV5zclJ-Fon3aFZCMVRxXNGYPCn89XFvTWiRa2ylDoKQKJnBYsKY9OPo5FAM--souHZmiwthX2JlNjY_3WoYkVJIUxhnI3EXQ&amp;amp;wpa_tag=&amp;amp;wpa_aux_info=&amp;amp;wpa_pos=1&amp;amp;wpa_plmt=1145x1145_T-C-IG_TI_1-6_HL-INGRID-GRID-NY&amp;amp;wpa_aduid=3687fa44-cb00-4429-8594-c91e40b14949&amp;amp;wpa_pg=browse&amp;amp;wpa_pg_id=1115193_1071966_1025741_1712053&amp;amp;wpa_st=Cleaning%2BGloves&amp;amp;wpa_tax=1115193_1071966_1025741_1712053&amp;amp;wpa_bucket=__bkt__&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ones&lt;/a&gt; (mentioned as reference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you recommend using these type of gloves when I make soap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="11619" LastEditDate="2021-08-05T20:16:24.827" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T16:50:10.743" Title="Can I use cleaning gloves whilst handling lye during soap making?" Tags="|soap-making|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10478" CreationDate="2021-08-05T13:50:16.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yep, cutting the pieces out first would definitely help you gauge the layout better and how many pictures you can actually fit in. You could also perhaps split it up into multiple smaller collages that look good together as a series.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You probably do not need a top glue coat if you want to frame this collage eventually since the glass/ plastic on top will act as a protectant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use blue tack to put the pictures together to check the layout/ decide which ones need to be cropped first before glueing them on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also measure the wall area where you want to put this up, you want to go with a good size, to strike the right balance between gaudy and miniscule.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example I found on the website of Mixtiles&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPNun.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPNun.png&quot; alt=&quot;picture of a staircase with 17 small picture frames at the back, credits: mixtiles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11627" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T13:50:16.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10482" CreationDate="2021-08-05T15:40:43.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll stop short of recommending any particular product, but highly recommend wearing non-absorbing gloves when handling sodium hydroxide (lye) at any concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Latex gloves will suffice for this, as they provide an effective barrier against both moisture and lye molecules. Latex is, however, a common allergy for many people, so you may also consider hypoallergenic materials such as nitrile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11639" LastActivityDate="2021-08-05T15:40:43.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10482" CreationDate="2021-08-05T18:08:40.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These gloves have both advantages and disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are reusable (You should rinse them under fresh water before taking them off your hands).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are long and protect your forearms from spillage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can notice leaks in this type of gloves better than in the very thin one-use-only gloves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These thick gloves impede your dexterity and make it harder to grip small things or handle delicate objects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sooner or later they will become brittle and leak. Latex usually last about one year before it breaks, even if it isn't used at all. Rubber can last longer than that, but it's more vulnerable to high temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in addition to the gloves, you should always wear eye protection when working with lye. You can get simple plastic protective glasses at many construction stores, but in my personal experience the very cheap ones have uneven glasses and distort the vision. An alternative is to use untinted snowboard googles or divers goggles with the nose piece cut away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="9909" LastEditDate="2021-08-06T16:50:10.743" LastActivityDate="2021-08-06T16:50:10.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10487" CreationDate="2021-08-05T20:39:45.070" Score="6" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a mosaic artist who has recently become very interested in making works that use  buttons as tesserae. I've also come into possession of three large stretched canvases (30&amp;quot;x40&amp;quot;), and one of them is &amp;quot;telling me&amp;quot; that it wants to be the base of the button mosaic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I glue the buttons to the canvas with Weldbond (my usual adhesive), would they stay on, even if the canvas moves a bit? Or should I stick with using panels or other hard, immovable surfaces? I don't foresee this moving around a lot, but it might be going to art shows, etc. Also concerned with any natural warping that might happen over the years, though I suppose that could happen with panels as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2022-01-16T17:12:02.673" Title="Gluing buttons on a stretched canvas" Tags="|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10486" CreationDate="2021-08-05T22:37:47.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buttons are made from a lot of different materials.  Even plastic buttons are commonly made from half a dozen different kinds of plastic.  Some of these are easy to glue and some are difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weldbond sticks to a lot of stuff, but plastics are among the things it doesn't bond well to, especially some of the plastics some buttons are made from.  So adhesion would be hit or miss.  It might well be adequate if the finished work is protected, but you might find that some of the buttons fall off if they are handled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot melt glue might work, especially if you can get some into the holes.  Some of the harder-to-glue plastics bond better with heat, and if you can get glue into/through the sewing holes, that would give it an anchor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But let me suggest a non-glue solution.  Variations on the Buttoneer theme have been around for many decades.  Similar mechanisms are used for retail tagging, quilt basting, etc.  Basically, a nylon filament secures the button, either by looping through two holes and locking behind the fabric with a toggle, or there is a knob on the button side larger than the hole and you use one fastener for each hole.  Most are inserted in one quick action by loading a strip of fasteners into a &amp;quot;gun&amp;quot;, inserting the gun's needle(s) through the button and fabric, and squeezing a trigger to insert the fastener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buttoneers basically suck for their intended purpose of fastening working buttons to clothing.  Especially after the fasteners have been through the dryer a few times, they get brittle and break.  They will also break if you use them for buttons that will be stretched, like a pants waist.  However, artwork isn't exposed to the things that causes the fasteners to fail.  Attachment with a Buttoneer will be faster than glue, the result is finished as soon as you remove the tool (no drying time), and if you need to remove or move a button, it's trivial to snip the fastener (glue will leave a mess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are currently a number of variations on the insertion tool, like these (all pictures below are from Amazon):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BtO7G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BtO7G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HBKy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HBKy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;                                &lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTdaR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTdaR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMtEY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMtEY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools typically come with an initial supply of fasteners and you can buy bulk packages of the fasteners.  The fasteners are generally available in clear, white, and black, and sometimes a few other basic colors, like brown, so there are some choices to minimize the visibility of the filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-16T17:12:02.673" LastActivityDate="2022-01-16T17:12:02.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10413" CreationDate="2021-08-09T10:25:42.077" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Camlin Picture Varnish Spray are meant for both oil and acrylic medium (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kokuyocamlin.com/product/painting-mediums/picture-varnish-spray-41-168-11.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). Hence you can use this to seal your painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11648" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T09:00:53.537" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T09:00:53.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10407" CreationDate="2021-08-09T10:34:29.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too can't suggest any specific brand since that may not be available in your area. I suggest look for an acrylic spray varnish in a nearby local store. It's a spray bottle (deodorant size bottle), which is handy and very easy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11648" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-09T11:03:38.303" LastActivityDate="2021-08-09T11:03:38.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-10T20:14:55.877" Score="4" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I notice that rakes made out of bamboo have curved tines (as shown below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jY9rA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jY9rA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I permanently bend bamboo like there tines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T09:23:41.307" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T09:23:41.307" Title="How to permanently bend bamboo?" Tags="|technique-identification|woodworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10490" CreationDate="2021-08-10T21:21:41.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most commercial applications, the bamboo is treated with steam to soften it.  You can also soften it by soaking in water, but it takes a lot longer.  You can even apply heat to the bamboo, which softens it and turns the water contained in the bamboo to steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a specific shape needs to be replicated, like those tines, the softened bamboo is put in a form until it cools and dries out.  Steam treatment followed by a form is essentially the same as the process for bending wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Bend-Bamboo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3 Ways to Bend Bamboo&lt;/a&gt;, describes three ways that don't require a steam chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-08-10T21:35:45.597" LastActivityDate="2021-08-10T21:35:45.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-11T04:08:16.003" Score="4" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is what happened a rare anomaly or common? (Apologies if this is the wrong substack; I couldn't find a more relevant one.)&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptudc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptudc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;book&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11653" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T08:13:02.910" Title="What happened to this book?" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10492" CreationDate="2021-08-11T08:13:02.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a guess, but I reckon the printer had 2 different batches of paper on the go, of different qualities.  Look carefully next to the spine and you'll see it's bound in 9 &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Section_(bookbinding)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;signatures&lt;/a&gt;, 2B, 2W, 2B, 1W, 1B, 1W where B=brown and W=white.  It's likely that the same effect will be visible in other copies from the same print run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each signature is printed and stitched, then assembled into the cover.  The brown signatures were presumably printed on more acidic paper.  As the acid can migrate from one page to the next, the sheet or two of white nearest a brown page to be a little yellowed. The effect is probably greater near the edges as ambient sources of acid also contribute.  The brown pages/regions should be noticeably more brittle as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That looks like the 1961 (or '62 depending on source) cover; books I have of similar age show varying degrees of yellowing (e.g. 50s textbooks look good as new, many 70s novels are browned and have to be handled with care), so at roughly the same period a variety of papers were used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T08:13:02.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10456" CreationDate="2021-08-11T11:28:21.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look up the saponification value of the oils you are using, then you can be more precise about the amount of NaOH needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wikipedia article also has a handy list of values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example; changing from&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;coconut oil (between 248 and 265)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to sunflower oil (189 - 195)&#xA;you will need less NaOH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saponification_value&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saponification_value&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8827" LastEditorUserId="8827" LastEditDate="2021-08-11T11:40:35.257" LastActivityDate="2021-08-11T11:40:35.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-11T21:41:49.440" Score="4" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this wood carving (see below) several years ago from a vintage/antique housewares and decor store. At least one of the cracks predates my purchase, but I don't think all of them do.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Additionally, it just feels like aging, unfinished wood (light in weight, rough texture, losing color, etc.; oddly enough the images below make it look a bit better than it looks in real life) and I've been thinking I should figure out the best way to maintain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be advisable to apply mineral oil or perhaps even a hard setting oil to it? Or some other finish or other product to help restore and maintain it?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;More generally, what should I do to maintain and/or restore the piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it might be relevant, I have no idea about the provenance of the piece. It could be a hundred years old Lao carving. It could be a cheap, mass produced knockoff. It could be somewhere in the middle. If you have any thoughts, please share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I included a few pictures of what looks like paint that can be seen in some places on the piece. So it may have been painted at some point, but it's hard to imagine someone painstakingly stripping it and not doing any other finishing work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oypvo.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/goKKG.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ErUI.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Full carved wooden panel&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Close up of the carved wooden panel&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Carved wooden panel showing green paint&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yN9dS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yN9dS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;carved wood panel red paint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hktmk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hktmk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;carved wood panel more green paint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ezPRE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ezPRE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;carved wood panel cracks&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Carved wooden panel showing red paint&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Carved wooden panel showing more green paint&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;Carved wooden panel showing cracks&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="11656" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-10-22T17:50:56.450" LastActivityDate="2021-10-22T17:50:56.450" Title="How should I maintain a carved wood panel" Tags="|wood|preservation|restoration|wood-carving|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8647" CreationDate="2021-08-12T13:56:53.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want the canvas to be raw it will discolor but if you want it to look raw and are ok with covering it, then use a good quality acrylic gel medium. Golden makes several, and if you use a matte gel and cover both sides of the canvas you will not have any yellowing as it will be insulated from oxidation. Matte, is suggested because a thin coat is almost impossible to see. Gloss will show itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11655" LastActivityDate="2021-08-12T13:56:53.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-12T23:25:45.093" Score="2" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of the Brewer method for starters, but other information would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9347" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-13T13:00:09.853" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T16:19:39.977" Title="Is there a known method to track perspective without guidelines, other than experience?" Tags="|drawing|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10511" CreationDate="2021-08-13T12:49:50.677" Score="5" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this tool while cleaning out a workshop close to the sea, but &lt;strong&gt;what is it for and what's its name&lt;/strong&gt;? I've guessed it's something for knotting, but can't find a reference on how to use it (it might of course be something totally else :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handle is in wood, the rest of the tool is made from steel, and the front part (that measures 20 mm at its widest place), looks like half a birds beak, a little bit curved. The tool is 180 mm long all in all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vF9mu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPsaH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylyno.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11671" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T16:31:46.963" Title="What is this tool (looking like half a birds beak on a shaft with a handle) for?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10499" CreationDate="2021-08-13T13:11:05.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a wonderful(ly inventive) tool called a &lt;strong&gt;centrolinead&lt;/strong&gt;, which I still hope to get my hands on one day:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEBOW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEBOW.png&quot; alt=&quot;image of centrolinead as it appeared in an ad by Keuffel and Esser Co. New York.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gurneyjourney.blogspot.com/2010/06/centrolinead.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It consists of a metal joint from which three wooden, rotatable arms extend. You only need two fixed points right next to you drawing on both sides (like thumbtacks or nails). The longer arm acts as if it reaches a vanishing point that is much further away. The two smaller arms can be fastened once you're happy with that vanishing point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also not very hard to craft yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-18T10:47:01.603" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T10:47:01.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10504" CreationDate="2021-08-13T20:40:47.630" Score="2" ViewCount="2446" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend glue for sticking wool to wool? This is for a small, stationary, non-load-bearing, long-term application for an indoor, non-heated environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't need to move around or flex, although it might get slightly jostled or vibrated sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be willing to pay more for something that checks various &amp;quot;hippy&amp;quot; boxes, such as not producing dangerous fumes after setting, not being super-flammable, or being less environmentally destructive or economically exploitative to produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11679" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T15:59:08.867" LastActivityDate="2021-12-15T15:59:08.867" Title="Glue for sticking wool to wool?" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|fabric|wool|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10502" CreationDate="2021-08-15T16:47:32.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most often the best way to stick 2 pieces of fabric together is sewing them. In the special case of wool you can also felt them together by placing both pieces of fabric on a soft foam surface or plush towel and then repeatedly stabbing them with a felting needle. That requires no chemicals at all and you can decide how well they stick together by stabbing them more. You can see &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.clover-usa.com/2020/02/14/tool-school-needle-felting-tools/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this article&lt;/a&gt; how a red blossom is felted onto a pink scarf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, use transparent construction silicone. It's reasonably cheap, doesn't produce any toxic chemicals (although it stinks of vinegar while curing), and bonds to almost anything almost forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's ideal to put a few tiny blobs of silicone on one piece of wool and then gently push the other cloth into it, but only so far that the silicone bonds to the outer fibres. You don't want to push the silicone through the fibres. If you want to cover a wider area in silicone, use a disposable scraper or plastic object to spread it out. The surface takes only a few minutes to dry, so you might need to split the area into smaller portions. Dip your fingers in some water mixed with dish soap to stop the silicone from sticking to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some alternatives are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plain PVA glue (aka Elmers glue, wood glue, white glue): unbeatably cheap, non-toxic, dries clear, water soluable even after it dries, but may leave stains in the fabric even after drying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acryllic glue (like ModPodge, clear acryllic medium, construction acryllic glue): cheap, non-toxic, somewhat water resistant, but may also leave stains in the fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word of caution: moths &lt;em&gt;love&lt;/em&gt; eating wool in a mostly undisturbed indoor environment. The eco-friendly solution is either lavendar blossoms or cedar wood, but you'll have to renew the repellant each year. If you're making something like a collage, try to incorporate a little pocket where you can place the repellant directly into the artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-08-16T07:16:02.037" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T07:16:02.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8949" CreationDate="2021-08-18T17:34:34.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8ikg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8ikg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a link to get the PDF&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://paste.c-net.org/LoweringWorkup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://paste.c-net.org/LoweringWorkup&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10111" LastActivityDate="2021-08-18T17:34:34.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3313" CreationDate="2021-08-19T12:18:17.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use UHU Glue Stick for my beer labels and it works a treat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I print on an inkjet printer there is always the risk of ink running if it gets wet.  Laser-printed labels are much more robust and colour permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue sticks do not last long and for that reason are not the cheapest way of labeling bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11692" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-08-26T17:42:56.313" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T17:42:56.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10500" CreationDate="2021-08-19T20:55:01.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking it is a woodworking tool for carving wood. They come in all different shapes and sizes. The images you provided have a similar body and shape commonly bought in a set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwGym.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwGym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Image source from: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/224770994/wood-carving-tools-forged-chisel-carving&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-20T04:32:09.857" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T04:32:09.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10513" CreationDate="2021-08-19T22:50:15.440" Score="3" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;As part of a DIY electronics project, I want to use LEDs to create a glowing effect with a crystal ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a perfectly clear crystal ball that looks exactly like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11VT4m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11VT4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried combining it with an appropriately sized ring-shaped set of LEDs. The LED ring is big enough for the bottom of the ball to fit in it but not big enough for the ball to pass through it. The LEDs are controlled by an Arduino and can change color, intensity, etc. They look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1c1Zm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1c1Zm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to achieve a luminescent effect, i.e. I wanted the ball to glow. A little extra light shining off of the LEDs is fine, it doesn't have to be perfect. However, in my attempts thus far it seems like the light from the LED kind of lights up the surface / sides of the ball, but it doesn't look like the ball is glowing from within. Just the opposite. It looks like the ball is dark and there's a halo around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T09:53:54.667" Title="How to create a luminescent (glowing) effect with a crystal ball and LEDs?" Tags="|lighting|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11414" CreationDate="2021-08-19T23:17:30.707" Score="4" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to cross stitch a 100x50 point design onto a T-shirt, but I'd like it to be small (4x2 inches approximately). This leaves me with a 25 count per inch design.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Ideally, I'd like to use waste fabric and pull it out after I'm done stitching. Is that feasible, or would I be better off stitching onto even weave and leaving it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for anyone with experience in high inch-count cross stitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11694" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-27T07:43:49.237" LastActivityDate="2022-12-25T18:08:29.097" Title="How to cross-stitch finely on a T-shirt" Tags="|embroidery|cross-stitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10500" CreationDate="2021-08-20T00:12:18.820" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a &lt;em&gt;bearing scraper&lt;/em&gt;, used for finishing the inside of soft metal bearings, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Babbitt_(alloy)#Traditional_Babbitt_bearings&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Babbitt bearings&lt;/a&gt; which are made by pouring liquid metal directly around the shaft they will support, then disassembled and cleaned up before use. Such bearings are re-poured when they wear down, so this tool might have been from a maintenance shop, not necessarily a factory that originally made machinery having such bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see some very similar tools and their use in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/4v2ivoLkxVw?t=2878&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video on Babbitt bearings from Keith Rucker's YouTube channel, starting at 48:00&lt;/a&gt;. The narrow, slightly curved tip allows working on the perpendicularly curved inside surface of the bearing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9UWMp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9UWMp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frame from the above video of a scraper being used on half of a Babbitt bearing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In this particular picture, it almost looks like the concave side is up, but actually the convex side is up, so the two edges are against the surface to scrape.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5870" LastEditorUserId="5870" LastEditDate="2021-08-20T02:08:15.887" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T02:08:15.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10514" CreationDate="2021-08-20T09:03:15.910" Score="2" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently sewing my first pair of shoes. They are made of fabric only (no leather, cork or other materials) and a commercial foam insole for comfort. I have covered the insole with matching lining and sewn the uppers to the insole. At this stage the shoes are already wearable, but they lack a waterproof outer sole to make them ready for outdoor wear. My initial plan is to sew the outer sole on with heavy waxed thread, but I might add contact cement if the stitching alone is not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the outer soles I bought &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08GFV42WM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this sheet of 2mm thick material&lt;/a&gt;. I experimented with a few scrap pieces and found that you can permanently bend and mold the material if you soak it in hot water and let it cool in the desired shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material is currently completely flat. Joining the uppers to it would result in a shoe that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8nbGf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8nbGf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-make-edwardian-1920s-bathing-shoes-with-cork-sole/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source and sewing instructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that this is just an example of how the shape of the shoes looks like. What is a cork sole in this image would be a rubber sole in my shoes and there would be an additional insole. I don't like this style and would like my shoes to look more like a modern ballet flat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMKc6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMKc6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&amp;amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vogue.com%2Farticle%2Fbest-ballet-flats-for-every-occasion&amp;amp;psig=AOvVaw3pU4udVm_yLG04QcVWxSAx&amp;amp;ust=1629533421842000&amp;amp;source=images&amp;amp;cd=vfe&amp;amp;ved=0CAwQ3YkBahcKEwiwnNmgk7_yAhUAAAAAHQAAAAAQCQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The edges of the sole are slightly bent up to give the shoe rounded edges and a more natural foot-like shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the pattern directly from my feet (wrapping them in cling foil and then painters tape), so I don't have a wooden last or any substitute.&#xA;I have to somehow mold the hot sole directly on my foot. The material cools within a minute or so, so I have very limited time to get the shape right. I have no idea how to bend the edges upwards all around the shoe (at least the front 2/3) all at once before the material cools down too much. Does anyone have experience or a good idea how to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-08-20T11:07:33.630" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T01:06:58.960" Title="How to mold outer shoe sole to the shape of my feet without using a last?" Tags="|plastic|clothing|technique-selection|rubber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10509" CreationDate="2021-08-20T09:53:54.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get that glowing effect, light needs to radiate out in all directions.  A perfectly clear ball won't diffuse any of the light entering it.  It will act like a lens.  Light from the LEDs will pass through and out the opposite side, probably with some refraction, so the LED pattern will look a different size on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could eliminate the bothersome reflections off the outside by putting the LED ring in a stand that encloses the lights right to the globe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea that might produce the glow effect would be to put a curved diffuser between the globe and stand to scatter the light in all directions entering the globe.  If that works, it would let you use the clear globe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-08-20T09:53:54.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10512" CreationDate="2021-08-20T12:17:01.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a way to curve the rim on the rubber.  Get a scrap wooden board big enough for each sole, and at least as thick as the depth of the curve.  Cut out the shape of the sole.  Put the desired curve around the edge (could use a router, but probably fast with just a sander).  Make the finished form slightly smaller than the sole (by the thickness of the rubber).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cutting out the sole shape on the rubber, soften the rubber in a tub of hot water.  BTW, this whole process will be done in the hot water, so you don't have to deal with the rubber cooling before you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Form the rubber against the wooden form, working with everything under the hot water (wear rubber gloves to protect your hands).  There are several ways to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the wooden form and rubber in a vacuum bag and suck the air out to pull the rubber tight against the form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Protect the rubber by adding a stiff but pliable layer on top, something like cardboard cut from a cereal box if you put the whole thing in a plastic bag to keep it from getting wet (would need to temporarily take the rubber out of the water to package it).  Then under the hot water with the rubber soft, put very wide rubber bands around the sandwich, one next to the other, so they pull everything together all around.  You can do this outside the plastic bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Soak some cardboard to soften it and form it around the wooden form, or apply a thin layer of paper pulp around the form.  Let it dry.  This will serve as a spacer for the thickness of the rubber.  After it's dry, cast a cement shell over it, thick enough to have some strength.  When the cement is cured, separate everything, and pull out the cardboard/paper.  If some doesn't come out easily, soak it in water to soften it and scrape it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soften the rubber in a tub of hot water and warm the cement form in the hot water.  Sandwich the rubber between the wooden and cement forms and apply a lot of rubber bands around it to pull them together (all done in the hot water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever method you use, leave it in the hot water for a while to give the rubber plenty of time to conform all the way through.  Then take it out and let it cool for several hours so all the rubber in the middle is back to room temperature before taking it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T01:06:58.960" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T01:06:58.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-20T23:33:41.893" Score="3" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this pair of ear climbers - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/257143616/tiny-dagger-stud-earrings-dagger-stud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.etsy.com/listing/257143616/tiny-dagger-stud-earrings-dagger-stud&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece here is slightly too short for my ears (the angled part just barely doesn't come out of the piercing).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQqao.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQqao.png&quot; alt=&quot;back of ear climber linked in post&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it feasible to straighten and re-shape a little larger angle there without breaking the wire off?  If so, any tips would be appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11698" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T09:24:49.410" Title="Reshaping ear climber back to fit larger ears" Tags="|jewelry|wire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10515" CreationDate="2021-08-21T01:01:05.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just rebending the wire is likely to break it.  Theoretically, it could be unsoldered and the earrings remade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your link, it looks like they retail for $24.  You would spend more than that for a jeweler to do the work.  The question suggests that you aren't an experienced jewelry maker, yourself, so this wouldn't be something you likely could tackle and expect an attractive result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company that makes it looks like a small operation that makes these themselves, and they do custom orders.  I would contact them and see if they would make you a pair in the right size.  Your existing pair you could give to a friend or resell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T05:40:46.173" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T05:40:46.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10515" CreationDate="2021-08-22T09:24:49.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution would be to contact the manufacturer, as fixer 1234 already wrote, especially if this is a reoccuring problem they aren't aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they refuse replacement or you're brave enough, you can try rebending them slightly. &lt;strong&gt;General warning&lt;/strong&gt;: There is a chance that the wire might break or become weaker (bending unintentionally) and if you have a gold or rose gold wire, it may change color (because the gold is only plated). The wire will never be perfectly straight again, but that doesn't matter much since it's hidden anyway. If you decide to rebend the wire, you do that at your own risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a pair of &lt;strong&gt;small round nose pliers&lt;/strong&gt; for this (both tips of the pliers are round tubes and there is no edge on them). The tips must be small enough to fit into the bend. Any other type of pliers will probably leave ugly marks and won't let you bend the wire correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grab the wire right in the bend with the pliers, then &lt;strong&gt;rotate the pliers&lt;/strong&gt; to unbend it slightly. Without letting go of the pliers, grab the very end of the wire and &lt;strong&gt;push it upwards without rotating the pliers&lt;/strong&gt; to create a new bend very close behind where the old bend was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the pliers I mean and a little explanation of the technique &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/p0JrrI3PqLI?t=20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in this video (start at 0:19)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T09:24:49.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-23T01:42:34.760" Score="2" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to cast some plastic resin into the wood, such as to make a cutting board, where the resin is minimally toxic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For the moment, let's ignore the toxicity of the wood itself.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the &amp;quot;Castin' Craft&amp;quot; brand catalyzed polyester material.  The bulk liquid (according to the MSDS) contains styrene, which is not good for humans.  Once the material is catalyzed and has hardened and outgassed for a day or two, I stop smelling the styrene.  Nevertheless, I wonder if there is something better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another clear material I could use as an alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8016" LastActivityDate="2021-08-25T04:24:08.543" Title="Is there a good low toxicity / food safety clear casting material?" Tags="|plastic|casting|food-safe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10518" CreationDate="2021-08-23T04:42:16.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find many epoxies and some other resins that are certified food safe.  Casting resins are often used for items that will be in contact with the body or food.  The US and EU (and I assume other countries), have standards for certifying the materials as safe for these purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually several parts to the answer.  Certain kinds of plastics are approved for certain kinds of uses (e.g., incidental or single-use contact vs. storage or repeated use, dry vs. wet, etc.).  For a type of plastic that is suitable for a purpose, the manufacturer gets their particular product certified as safe.  So a product that is food safe for one purpose may not necessarily be food safe for a different purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't recommend a particular product, but search for &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; at whatever source you will buy the resin from.  Then just verify that the item description says &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; (it can't be legally described as food safe if it isn't certified as such).  And be aware that you may need to verify whether the food safe rating covers your intended use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; assumes accurate mixing ratios, thorough mixing, and fully cured.  If those conditions aren't met, it will still contain materials that aren't good for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that most epoxy resins you find will be designed for one of two kinds of applications--either casting or coating.  The casting resins are typically low viscosity and are designed to cure in a thick casting without generating runaway heat.  The coating resins are typically higher viscosity and are designed to cure in a thin layer (usually less than 1/4&amp;quot;).  If you try to cast something thick with a coating resin, it can generate intense heat, the resin may boil, and you will likely ruin everything involved.  Just check the product description for the maximum recommended thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-08-23T05:12:29.457" LastActivityDate="2021-08-23T05:12:29.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10518" CreationDate="2021-08-23T05:02:52.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are other resins (mostly 2 part epoxy resins) that &lt;em&gt;can be&lt;/em&gt; food safe. &lt;em&gt;Can be&lt;/em&gt; means that :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has to say &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; on the packaging, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to measure the components and mix them very pecisely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Component resins bring all the chemicals needed to harden, only they are seperated in the 2 components. The components themselves are harmful, even if the resin is food safe. Ideally you'd mix just the right amount of hardener into just the right amount of resin and after the curing time all chemicals bonded together and became inert. If the resin isn't completely hard after curing, there are remains of harmful chemicals left and it isn't food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?CFRPart=177&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datasheet by the FDA&lt;/a&gt; listing all categories of materials that are approved for either one-time or repeated contact with food. And &lt;a href=&quot;https://acrylgiessen.com/en/food-safe-epoxy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's a guide&lt;/a&gt; to understand the FDA sheet that also lists a few food safe casting resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible alternative is thermo plastic. Heed the same advice and look for products marketed as &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot;, but you'll find many more food safe thermo plastics than resins. The downside is that none of them are as clear as resin and you might not want to cut a hot roast beef on this board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-08-25T04:24:08.543" LastActivityDate="2021-08-25T04:24:08.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10522" CreationDate="2021-08-23T09:07:21.887" Score="7" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to sewing and have not handled fabric before. When I go to store pages on the internet, the shop keepers and reviewers often post a picture of a big piece of fabric swirled with assumable two fingers. Since they wouldn't do extra effort for naught, I assume pictures like the following summarize several qualities of the fabric type in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFMfV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFMfV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example of a swirled piece of fabric.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only think of a few:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bendability, does it form sharp corners or does it stay rigid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does it look like under different lighting, since the curvature and spiral form show many different angles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific keyword that I can use to google further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11707" LastActivityDate="2023-09-13T10:02:42.183" Title="What does a picture of swirled fabric tell me about the fabric" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10521" CreationDate="2021-08-23T18:15:06.140" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're supposed to see in those pictures is how the fabric drapes. From a flat piece of fabric you can only see the weave (if zoomed in), the pattern and the color. From the product page you should also see the weight of the fabric, what you don't see is the &lt;strong&gt;drape&lt;/strong&gt; of the fabric (how it flows and molds itself to the body), that can determine if it's suited for a specific purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;strong&gt;summary and some links to further articles at the end of this answer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most information can be derived from the very edge of the picture (how much fabric lays flat on the table and how much stands away from it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a random one from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stoffe.de/81-9471-028_feincord-dunkelgruen.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;stoffe.de&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XygDL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XygDL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;property&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;value&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Material:&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;100% Cotton&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;weight (g/m²):&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;145,0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see a swirl and thick wrinkles spreading out like sunrays. The wrinkles stay intact all the way to the outer edge of the image and the fabric never flattens out much. There's roughly 50% fabric touching the table and 50% standing up at the very edge. You also see that the material is rather matte from all angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can conclude that this fabric is very heavy, will fall in thick, heavy waves and won't flow much in breeze. If made into a wide skirt, it would probably stand awkwardly from your body like a cone. If made into a pencil skirt, it would hold its shape very well. It's not at all suited for a shirt or evening dress, but suited for trousers, jackets, bags or curtains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next random example from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stoffe.de/81-7900-032_futterstoff-charmeuse-champagner.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;stoffe.de&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8iWkz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8iWkz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;property&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;value&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Material:&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;100% Polyester&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;weight (g/m²):&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;145,0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fabric has the exact same weight as the first example, but look at the difference! The wrinkles are extremely pronounced and the fabric seems to cling to the table underneath. I estimate that only 10% of the fabric stands up. In combination with the material (polyester) you can conclude that this fabric will statically charge up and cling to your body. On the page it's listed as lining for things like blazers or suits, but my personal advice is to just not buy it, because it will make the item very uncomfortable to wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, another example from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stoffe.de/63-05350-052_mikrofaser-satin-dunkelgruen.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;stoffe.de&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Rfrg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Rfrg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;property&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;value&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Material:&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;100% Polyester&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;weight (g/m²):&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;130,0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see that the fabric is glossy and reflects different colors from different angles. Less obvious is that the wrinkles are far less pronounced and less straight and regular than in the first example, although the weight is comparable. Several wrinkles even collapse and flatten out towards the edge. I'd estimate that 25% of the fabric stands up from the table at the edge of the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can conclude that this fabric is still slightly heavy, but will drape &lt;em&gt;so much better&lt;/em&gt; than the first example. If made into an elegant dress, it would probably fall in soft waves and emphasize your body shape. If made into a pencil skirt, it would cling too much to your body (especially your behind) and look awkward. This is well suited for things like flowy evening blouses, dresses or skirts, where the drape of the fabric will be visually appealing. You could also use it as a fancy curtain, but it would make a tote bag look bulging and baggy, and it probably won't be comfortable in a summer dress (due to its material and weight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next example, also from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stoffe.de/223-poso-k20-088_hemdenstoff-leinen-baumwoll-mix-schmale-streifen-hellblau-weiss.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;stoffe.de&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TROiG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TROiG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;property&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;value&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Material:&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;80% Cotton, 20% Linon&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;weight (g/m²):&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;107,0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is much lighter than all above, but it has 50% of the fabric standing up (comparable to the first example). That means it's a very crisp fabric, well suited for &amp;quot;traditional&amp;quot; dress shirts and blouses. If made into a wide summer dress, you risk creating some unflattering shapes due to it's crispness, but it would behave well in a pencil skirt (might be too much see-through, though). The light weight makes it unsuited for furniture or bags because it probably won't last long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pictures alone cannot tell you all you need to know about the fabric. They are meant as a somewhat standardized substitute for actually handling and feeling the fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In combination with other information like the weight, material and weave, they can give you an idea about how the fabric drapes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For some applications like dress shirts or furniture, you want a stiff fabric. For other applications like summer or evening dresses, you want a fabric that drapes well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more about drape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cucicucicoo.com/2016/03/why-fabric-drape-is-so-important/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why fabric drape is so important in your sewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mellysews.com/what-is-fabric-drape/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;One pattern, many fabrics. Understanding fabric drape&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fabric.com/blog/fabric-101-drape/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fabric 101: drape&lt;/a&gt; includes a very short video demonstration with fabric examples&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-08-24T04:47:05.053" LastActivityDate="2021-08-24T04:47:05.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-25T06:05:51.777" Score="7" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before painting a small item (think of a plastic model), I wash it in soapy water to remove oily fingerprints etc. Most commonly I use diluted &lt;strong&gt;dishwashing liquid&lt;/strong&gt;. From experience, washing &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; important, especially for non-porous surfaces like plastic or metal and paints with poor adhesion (like acrylic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: &lt;strong&gt;how important is it to completely wash the soap residue off the surface&lt;/strong&gt; for the paint quality/adhesion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking of anything obvious: the dried surface always looks perfectly clean. But if I don't flush it well and smear a wet finger over the surface, I might feel slight soapiness. Is it bad for the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we need to narrow it down, let's say the paint is &lt;strong&gt;acrylic&lt;/strong&gt; (alcohol-based) and applied with an airbrush (the goal is even coverage without strokes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that it may be difficult to wash the soap off completely: often the piece is too fragile or too big to be flushed with running water, and some parts of it may not be water-proof. Usually I have to apply both the detergent and clean water with a soft brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, dishwashing liquid is a surfactant, so if anything, it should &lt;em&gt;help&lt;/em&gt; the paint (unless it has a specific reaction to the dye). But maybe someone has direct experience with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't notice anything wrong myself, but I do try to wash it off well, if not perfectly. This is a tedious process. Maybe I'm overzealous...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9352" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-26T07:43:52.033" LastActivityDate="2024-04-04T11:09:16.210" Title="Detergent residue on the surface before painting - how bad is it?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10499" CreationDate="2021-08-26T16:19:39.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use thread and nail.&#xA;You should loose fix the thread on the horizon and with the help of nail to move across the surface to check the perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11713" LastActivityDate="2021-08-26T16:19:39.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10527" CreationDate="2021-08-28T16:56:31.137" Score="2" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make several resin casts using a featureless spherical silicon mold. The mold only has a diameter of 6 cm (think paperweight or billiard ball with a tabletop miniature sealed inside), but I'm looking to make 30+ of them. So I'm going to need quite a lot of resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any chemicals that are more affordable than the resin itself that I can use to dilute it so that it will go further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that this would effect things like drying time, but that is not necessarily an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask as I often dilute other substances that are typically used undiluted, and it's usually the case that the substances are sold in a format that's most convenient for off-the-shelf use, rather than because it's the only way to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-28T17:04:53.587" LastActivityDate="2021-08-28T18:01:21.440" Title="Can two-part epoxy casting resin be diluted?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10526" CreationDate="2021-08-28T18:01:21.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The miniature sealed inside implies you want clear resin so you can see the miniature (not a secret miniature that someone would take your word is in there).  For this requirement, there really isn't a material you can use to dilute the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the resin could be opaque, you could use a small amount of resin as a binder for a lot of cheap, solid filler.  You can add up to a few percent of an appropriate liquid dye for color (the liquid is compatible and has a similar refractive index).  But even with that, you can't go over a tiny percentage without affecting the resin, and if the material has a different refractive index, the result will look cloudy or distorted.  Solid, clear filler, like clear plastic chips or glass beads or powder, will have a different refractive index and will be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a clear result, you also have the issue of thorough mixing and no air bubbles.  Blending in another material tends to introduce air bubbles unless you have a vacuum chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, resin isn't cheap.  It's great stuff, but if you want to make things from it, it comes at a price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-08-28T18:01:21.440" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10529" CreationDate="2021-08-28T22:56:36.590" Score="2" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an idea that involves a color changing mug that has one image before you put coffee in, and another after you put the coffee in. However all of the custom mugs I’ve seen to order have only black disappearing ink. Are colors other than black made? Is it possible to create multiple (changing) arbitrary images?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11725" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-08-29T02:50:01.867" LastActivityDate="2021-08-29T02:59:58.227" Title="Can you make custom color change mugs where the disappearing ink is any image you choose?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10528" CreationDate="2021-08-29T02:40:03.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great idea, but you aren't the first to think of it (but maybe you can do it better).  :-)  Multi-color and picture-switching mugs and other objects have been around for a while.  But every color you add affects the cost and complexity, which is probably why you've seen mostly black.  To do what you describe, you'd put on the first picture, then cover that with a picture using paint that switches between opaque and clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wide range of &amp;quot;thermochromic&amp;quot; colors and changes are available.  Some switch between color and clear, some change from one color to another, some display a range of colors.  There are also various temperature thresholds, depending on what temperature you want the change to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several kinds of materials that can be used to make color changing paint.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scienceabc.com/pure-sciences/science-of-magic-mugs-how-does-heat-sensitive-paint-work-thermochromism.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Color Changing Mugs: How Do Heat Sensitive Mugs Work?&lt;/a&gt; explains the most common mechanisms.  If you want to try it yourself, you can buy the paint (here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paintwithpearl.com/shop-custom-paint/temperature-changing-paint/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one link&lt;/a&gt; to get you started), or make your own by mixing thermochromic pigments with a clear binder.  For example, here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B074LZC5LG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon link&lt;/a&gt; to one pigment supplier. (I've never used either of these particular products).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-08-29T02:59:58.227" LastActivityDate="2021-08-29T02:59:58.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-30T00:51:28.863" Score="6" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have luminous powders from ebay, those containing europium and glowing in various colors in the dark after being charged with visible or ultraviolet light. I would like to make them into paint by mixing them with a suitable paint base. I have seen luminous paint base offered for sale but at extravagant prices. Is there a more affordable and general solution? I think the main requirement is that the paint base should be weatherproof (if for use outdoors) and that it not absorb long-wave ultraviolet light (315-400mn), as this wavelength given off by the sun helps recharge the luminous pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: After looking more into this, I realized that fluorescent paint should have the same requirement as luminous paint, as both need exposure to long-wave UV. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fxsupply.com/uv/uvpaint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; sells fluorescent paint that has an acrylic base. So a possible paint base is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;polyvinyl alcohol&lt;/a&gt; (white glue), though it may not be weather resistant. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shrinky_Dinks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shrinky Dinks&lt;/a&gt;, made of polystyrene, came in a variety impregnated with luminous zinc sulfide. So protecting a luminous painted surface with a layer of plastic should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9661" LastEditorUserId="9661" LastEditDate="2021-09-07T16:03:20.833" LastActivityDate="2021-09-07T16:03:20.833" Title="What is the best base to use for luminous paint?" Tags="|material-selection|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-30T10:50:41.960" Score="4" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, the gem was dropped on a stone tile floor and cracked pretty badly. The gem was cracked on the inside before but now a few of those cracks run to the surface and a little chip can now freely move in and out. There are no parts missing, if the chip is put back, it fits perfectly and you can barely see the scratches from the cracks when reflected against a light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gem has sentimental value and I'm looking to fix it. I was thinking, perhaps the resin that they use for fixing windshields would work? I don't have a method to create a vacuum but perhaps if I just submerge the gem in the resin and leave it be for a few days, would the resin seep into the cracks anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards I would extract the gem from the resin and place it in direct sunlight for the curing. I would expect the resin that seeped in to stay in during the curing and the rest would just drop off. After curing I might go back in with more of the resin and a brush to fill any remaining surface scratches and then even them out with a razor blade after those cure too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I've never done anything like this before so its just all in my head as of now, does anyone know if it would work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11731" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-30T11:41:52.057" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T23:46:38.387" Title="Fracture filling a citrine gemstone" Tags="|material-selection|casting|technique-selection|lapidary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10530" CreationDate="2021-08-30T12:15:24.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try &lt;strong&gt;polyurethane&lt;/strong&gt; varnishes.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;They are weatherproof, contrary to standard acrylic varnishes, they are transparent, but may absorb a bit of UV light, as UV is sometimes a catalyst to the reaction to form them (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyurethane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source : wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;) (only a guess here, as I didn't find valuable PU absorption spectrum). It is also stated that polyurethanes with &lt;strong&gt;isocyanates&lt;/strong&gt; react with UV light and it discolours them over time, so if you can, try isocyanate-free polyurethane.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Anyway, it is a very common outer coating protection for wood, so it is not very expensive (found some at 20 €/$ for 250ml).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You could give it a try and see how it works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11732" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-30T12:46:05.837" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T12:46:05.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-30T13:42:12.567" Score="0" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a new airbrush user with my first generic brand airbrush for practicing with before I commit to a more expensive model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently my airbrush has started making a spluttering sound when I apply more air pressure. The paint is coming out unevenly. The paint is coming out as a very thin mist with lots of large droplets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Vallejo acrylic paint, and Vallejo thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't even put down a smooth base coat any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T14:34:00.340" Title="Airbrush is spitting, uneven droplets of paint, can hear the air spluttering?" Tags="|paint|acrylic-paint|airbrush|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10537" CreationDate="2021-08-30T17:34:55.617" Score="0" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in making clothing for a rugged, outdoor environment, and using silk for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am used to silk being used for luxury goods which are very difficult to maintain. Although I know that silk threads are quite strong (silk rope exists, too), I am used to products made of silk being quite fragile and finnicky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clothing would be subjected to the effects of very active outdoor use, like running, swimming in the ocean, getting caught on brambles, sweating-inducing activities, etc., in a primitive environment. The clothing is not likely to be changed more often than every few days/week or so, and there is no access to modern cleaning methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these conditions, is there any type of silk fabric that would survive somewhat? For example, would it get woefully frayed the first time it encounters a hedge, more so than linen? Would it react terribly if exposed to seawater? Would it get more or less stinky than linen upon repeated wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11733" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-08-30T20:07:55.150" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T05:13:23.140" Title="Silk clothes for active daily wear - reasonable or not?" Tags="|material-selection|fabric|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10531" CreationDate="2021-08-30T18:57:09.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try the windshield repair resin to hold the loose chip.  Citrine is a form of quartz, which is the primary component of normal glass, so a resin designed to match the refractive index of windshield glass might not be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it will work for an internal crack in a gemstone, though.  The resin won't seep into the crack under normal conditions, even with light vacuum.  As a point of comparison, there's a process for filling fractures in diamonds.  The stone is placed in a chamber with a high vacuum.  Then a liquefied glass of similar refractive index is introduced, and the vacuum is reversed to extremely high pressure, which forces the liquid into the crack.  That kind of process wouldn't be needed if you could get a liquid into the fracture with a simple, low-tech process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative would be to try to just protect it from breaking apart.  You could spray or dip it in a thinned, non-yellowing lacquer to give it a surface film, although it won't look the same as a bare gem.  Another approach would be to embed it in a block clear resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What jewelers typically do is to recut the stone to make one or more smaller stones from the undamaged portions.  It obviously won't be the same as the original, but if you can wrap your head around that, you still get to keep a form of the original, which can carry the sentimental value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there aren't great options for a damaged gemstone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-09-02T23:46:38.387" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T23:46:38.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10533" CreationDate="2021-08-30T19:45:38.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good advice from Henry Taylor in the comments.  A clean nozzle and proper thinning are two key things.  Another is various problems with air in the wrong amounts and the wrong places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pittsburghsprayequip.com/blogs/pittsburgh-spray-equipment-company/why-your-spray-gun-is-spitting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why Your Spray Gun is Spitting&lt;/a&gt; is a good article on the common problems and fixes.  Some of the components mentioned may not apply to your airbrush, but I'll paste the essential portion (bulk of the article), here in case the link dies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluid Nozzle – The first area to check if your spray gun is spitting is the fluid nozzle. A loose fluid nozzle does not properly seat in the tip of the spray gun and causes air to enter the fluid supply resulting in spitting. To solve this issue properly tighten your fluid nozzle or if unable to tighten the fluid nozzle inspect the head of the spray gun to see if there is any stripping of the fluid seat or the fluid nozzle threading is stripped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air Cap Properly Matched – If you are using a siphon/suction-fed spray gun, the correct air Cap is vital to being able to properly spray and not experience spitting. With a suction fed spray gun you have to use a suction/ siphon fed spray gun air cap and NOT A PRESSURE FED AIR CAP.  Siphon-fed air caps cause air to be drawn across the material allowing it to be supplied and sprayed; a pressure cap will not create a suction effect, resulting in fluid not being supplied to the spray gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Packings - If you have the correct air cap and fluid nozzle, it might be that your packing nut is bad or the physical packings are worn. Inspect the packing nut to ensure it is tight as well as the packings to ensure they are not worn or missing. If the packings are missing, make sure to order new packings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluid Connections- If you are using a pressure-fed spray gun, make sure your fluid connection is tightly applied to your spray gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gravity or Suction Cup – If you are using a gravity or suction-fed spray gun, make sure your cup is seating tightly into the spray gun. Inspect the threads of the cup to ensure they are not stripped as well as inspect the threads of your spray gun to ensure they are in good shape and not stripped. If either are stripped replace the cup or gun body if necessary (or buy a new spray gun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material is to Heavy/Viscous – If you're using a suction-fed spray gun, your coating may be too viscous to be sprayed with a suction-fed spray gun. If you want to use a suction-fed spray gun to spray the material, you can try increasing the fluid nozzle and/or selecting a higher CFM air cap (which will allow for better draw of the material up to the fluid nozzle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air Cap Clogged (Suction Spray Gun) – Check your air cap to ensure that is not blocked by any paint. If it is, clean it out using a cup of proper cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluid Pressure too Low – If you're using a pressure-fed spray gun, you may not be applying enough pressure to your coating to supply the gun appropriately. This often happens with very thin material like stains that you are trying to keep coating to a small amount. To remedy this, try applying a little more pressure to the coating and then using your fluid adjustment knob to restrict fluid to the spray gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluid Passage Clogged – Clean the fluid passage of your spray gun with an appropriate cleaner to ensure no particle has become lodged in the spray gun due to sitting for a while or a partial hardening of material. If this is a recurring issue consider adding a fluid filter to your pressure pot or straining your material prior to spraying appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: This quotation has been corrected for spelling, punctuation, and capitalization to improve readability.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-08-30T19:45:38.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10534" CreationDate="2021-08-31T05:43:35.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frame challenge: there are silks that &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; survive, but silk just isn't the material you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If you use silk&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern silks are flimsy because the raw material is expensive and modern people value price over quality. A cheap silk sells better than an expensive one, even if it's low quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sturdy silk needs to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy! There needs to be a lot of material to make it sturdy and it needs to be much thicker than modern silk scarves. Take a look at heavy silk kimonos or early Victorian dresses in museums for inspiration (it was fashion to show off your wealth with &lt;em&gt;lots of&lt;/em&gt; heavy fabrics).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightly woven. Since silk is a luxury good, it's often woven as satin (very shiny but has long exposed threads that snag easily) or brocade (multi-colored weave, often with metallic threads). You'd probably want a herringbone or plain canvas weave for best durability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wearing heavy silk makes you sweaty. Silk fibres don't transport moisture very well and the thicker the fabric is, the less air it lets flow through for cooling. Other fibres like linen are much better at keeping the wearer dry and cool during strenuous activity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silk doesn't protect you from the weather. It heats up in the sun and doesn't retain much heat in the cold. Other fibres like wool are much better at keeping you cool when it's hot outside and keeping you warm when it's cold outside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silk is hard to produce. Silk worms eat only mulberry leaves, so you need constant fresh supply. Plant fibers like hemp, linen or nettles are much easier to grow or even forage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The better alternative&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hundreds of years the clothing of medieval European peasants was pretty much exactly what you want: sturdy (because fabric was &lt;em&gt;extremely expensive&lt;/em&gt; and the clothing had to keep as long as possible) and suited for daily outdoor wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It consists of 2 basic layers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A linen undergarment worn directly on the skin. This wicks away sweat and keeps you cool in summer. Additional benefit: linen doesn't cause and retain as much body odor as other fibers like cotton. But it cannot keep you warm in cold weather, you need:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A woolen overgarment (could be a coat or jacket, trousers or a skirt). It keeps you warm in cold weather, protects you from the sun and light rain, and protects your body from dirt. Wool undergoes a natural process of felting over time, which interlocks the fibers and makes it sturdier than other fibers. Since wool doesn't transport sweat and moisture, wearing it directly on your skin is very uncomfortable and you need the linen undergarment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with the silk, the weave determines much of the properties of the fabric. A plain canvas weave is the easiest to produce, but a herringbone weave can make the fabric sturdier and stiffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laundry has changed a lot over time, but there is consensus that the outer wear wasn't washed often, sometimes not at all. At some time in history it was common to wash your underwear every day (at least in higher social classes), but not your body. Since everyone was equally unwashed they all had more or less equal body odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Seawater&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any fabric that can resist salt water for long. As soon as the water dries, it leaves tiny salt crystals behind. Those either cut the fibers or make them brittle and rip. A thick salt crust can simply break the fabric like a flimsy cardboard. Any &amp;quot;primitive&amp;quot; people living by the sea are clever enough to either take their clothes off or rinse them in fresh water afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2022-06-07T14:33:32.890" LastActivityDate="2022-06-07T14:33:32.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-31T08:20:53.233" Score="5" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a custom two-part epoxy resin sculpture of a robot, with Lego Technic inside as a skeleton. Will the resin get so hot it will melt the plastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-08-31T08:57:08.317" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T08:45:09.720" Title="Will two-part epoxy casting resin melt Lego?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10539" CreationDate="2021-08-31T10:09:06.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lego is ABS, which can have a range of melting points melts up to 200°C*.  We should consider the lower end of the range just in case, which is often quoted as 105°C. Your resin shouldn't get that hot but you could test (a similar volume in a mould made of scrap, with one brick inside if you're really worried).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, slower epoxies are cooler, and large volumes get hotter, so you can make it work by choosing a resin that works at low temperatures, and keeping the volume involved in any single cure down to a minimum.  Depending on what you're aiming for this may mean multiple pours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* Strictly speaking we shouldn't talk about melting points as it's amorphous, instead &amp;quot;glass transition temperatures&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2021-09-02T08:45:09.720" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T08:45:09.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-08-31T13:13:41.710" Score="1" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to set micro diorama using tabletop gaming pieces in clear resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will put in an opaque base layer for the ground. Set up a scene on top of it and then fill this second layer with clear resin, the add a third sky layer on top to cap it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum time I can leave each layer to ensure that the next layer properly adheres to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, can I do three layers over three seperate days with 24 hour between each layer. Or do I need to finish the entire piece in a single day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T17:59:00.237" Title="What is the maximum amount of time I should leave between resin layer?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10541" CreationDate="2021-08-31T17:59:00.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resins differ but most recommend that you apply additional layers when the previous layer is firm but tacky to the touch.  This can be minutes to hours after an initial pour but usually less than 24 hours in any case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some resins allow for pouring over a previously cured layer, but recommend that you scratch the hardened surface to &amp;quot;rough it up&amp;quot; so that the new resin has something to hold onto.  For those kinds of resins, scratch marks and even the fog caused by sanding disappear when the new wet resin is applied.  Watch a Youtube video on sanding resin between pours to see it happen.  It is a little unbelievable but I've done it myself during an interrupted pour and it worked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be aware that thick layers of resin give off a lot of heat while they are hardening.  If any of the gaming pieces you are using are plastic, then I would suggest lots of thin (1/4 inch) layers rather than drowning them in several inches of atmosphere all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T17:59:00.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-01T07:31:50.103" Score="5" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to make some small scale props and accessories using soft wood. Possibly balsa or popsicle sticks. I want to make the grain swell up and come out so that it can be dry-brushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially the exact opposite of sanding it smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best method to do this? I want a textured surface that I can add shadows and highlights to with a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I steam it or soak it in something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-01T08:56:43.560" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T07:26:49.867" Title="How do I bring the grain out on soft wood?" Tags="|painting|woodworking|miniatures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10558" CreationDate="2021-09-01T08:04:00.330" Score="5" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been gifted a small cross-stitch project kit, and learning how to do it has mostly been easy, just following the instructions that came with the kit: Tuck in ends (you can do that for the 'beginning' by just stitching over it), do your stitches in rows and if stitches in the same color aren't next to each other, don't  'jump' from one to the other (or e.g. use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scarletquince.com/parking.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;parking method&lt;/a&gt;) if there will be nothing covering up the jump later, as that will mean the thread on the back side of the work will shine through, and be visible on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the kit I was giving uses little clusters of 5 stitches, in a 'plus sign' shape. These require 2 or 3 colors, and they're not 'connected' to the rest of the pattern. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wanzK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this image&lt;/a&gt; for a few examples. I'm struggling with how to start/end these, because there's no nearby stitches in another color to tuck the beginning or end of the thread under, and if I do only 1 or 2 stitches with each color, I also don't seem to end up with enough 'loops' on the back side of the fabric to securely tuck in ends, it is hard to reuse the same loops over and over. So far, I've resorted to knotting ends together, but this makes the back side of the projects very messy and on top of that, it creates a visible difference in tightness between the stitches where I've used knots and the ones where I tucked in ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one more pattern left to do from this set, and I want it to be perfect. But this pattern has even more of those free-floating five-stitch thingies than the one in the image above. So: &lt;strong&gt;How to properly start/end a cluster of 5 cross-stitches in 2/3 colors, that's not adjacent to any other part of the pattern?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T09:46:10.503" Title="How to start/end a cluster of 5 cross-stitches in 2/3 colors, that's not adjacent to any other part of the pattern?" Tags="|technique-selection|cross-stitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10543" CreationDate="2021-09-01T09:48:50.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can simply use water.&lt;/strong&gt; Spray it on, disperse it with a sponge or so, and leave it for a while. The fibers will soak up the water and expand.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For texture to appear the wood naturally needs differences in hardness/concentrations of fibers - I'm not sure small pieces of balsa wood or Popsicle sticks have enough of a grain to really be notable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use distilled water if you don't want any contaminants to potentially cause discolouration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on grounding the wood before spray-painting, consider using a water-based coating, as it can have the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T09:48:50.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10547" CreationDate="2021-09-01T12:19:48.130" Score="4" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to reuse the waste material I have from trimming and grinding quartz and I had the idea of mixing the material with epoxy, shaping it, and then putting it into a rock tumbler. Will a rock tumbler smooth and polish epoxy? Has this been tried before with success, and if so is there a specific type of epoxy that is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11739" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T18:43:47.803" Title="Rock Tumble Epoxy" Tags="|material-selection|epoxy-resin|lapidary|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10546" CreationDate="2021-09-01T17:27:21.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can definitely mix the quartz waste with epoxy.  In fact, it can be mostly waste, with just enough epoxy to bind it together.  Mix thoroughly so all of the quartz is covered with epoxy and there aren't pockets of quartz powder.  It's also helpful to press the mixture into shape to force it together and eliminate tiny gaps and air pockets (you want a solid material containing only quartz and epoxy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a lot of extremely fine quartz dust, it will act as a thickener, making the epoxy like epoxy clay that you can shape if you get the ratio right.  Coarser quartz will act as a filler, saving epoxy and imparting strength and hardness.  But the mixture will have a tendency to slump.  If the mixture isn't like clay, you can use a mold to create and hold the shape you want until the epoxy hardens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rocks are very brittle and heavy, and a rock tumbler works well at knocking off sharp edges.  Even the most brittle epoxy is much more resilient than stone, and lighter.  If you use a brittle epoxy as a binder for a mostly quartz mix, a rock tumbler is likely to smooth edges if you run it long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polishing will be different from stone.  The epoxy will already have a smooth, shiny surface.  If it is clear, you will see the quartz, but the surface will be epoxy.  If you haven't used a mold, the surface may be bumpy, but it will be epoxy and shiny.  So polishing isn't what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the surface is bumpy or you want to expose some bare quartz, grinding or sanding is the way to do that.  The fastest way to polish it is sanding with a very fine grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this with a rock tumbler, the results will probably depend on the mix of quartz and epoxy, and the condition of the surface.  If the surface is not uniform (e.g., crevices or a lot of high bumps), a rock tumbler isn't likely to be effective, at least in a reasonable time frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can avoid the need for a rock tumbler by using a mold.  If you are making freehand shapes, do it in a medium like clay.  Polish the model, then make a mold of it.  The quartz filled epoxy will come out in smooth, polished form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-09-01T18:43:47.803" LastActivityDate="2021-09-01T18:43:47.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10543" CreationDate="2021-09-02T07:26:49.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can brush it with a wire brush, going with the grain. The wires push fine groves into the wood that looks like natural wood grain and works really well in miniature crafting. If you press the brush down hard (without bending the wires) you'll get a deeper texture. If you pass the brush over the wood more often, you'll get a finer texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One very common example is a wood floor or wooden furniture for tabletop miniatures made of popsicle sticks. The sticks alone usually don't have much grain at all. Painting it on is much too big for the scale. Wire brushing thin groves into the soft wood and then applying a dark wash (with or without a base coat of paint) makes it really look like wooden boards shrinked down to scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T07:26:49.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-02T07:27:06.847" Score="2" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a simple way of coating or encapsulating a photograph so that I can set it inside a block of two part transparent epoxy casting resin? The photograph is from one of those print your own photo stations that you find in Walmart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example to make a custom plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-09-02T09:24:53.687" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T14:19:36.937" Title="How can I seal a photograph inside a block of resin?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-02T10:04:55.543" Score="1" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lightweight bike-camping setup that involves a coated nylon tarp over the bike.  I'd like to add some guys to improve the shape and stability, but this will require stitching attachment points in the middle of a panel.  I'm concerned about the stress on the stitches causing a rip, so how should I construct the attachment points to protect the fabric? I have the tarp and spare guys, but expect to have to buy some material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T10:41:32.797" Title="Adding a guy rope point mid-panel to a tarp, how should I sew to minimise the risk of tearing?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10550" CreationDate="2021-09-02T10:41:32.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of line forces being attached to a flat surface, the key is distribution. Using a material that is sufficiently strong (webbing), create a panel of substantial dimensions. It's going to be somewhat subjective, or it's going to be trial and error, without substantial engineering analyses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd consider to start with a 150 mm square or a rectangle of webbing about 150 mm long. For &amp;quot;ordinary&amp;quot; fabric strap/webbing, secure the ends (about 50 mm each end) with an unstitched segment in the middle. Your cording can attach to the gap, while the forces are spread over the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you require more strength or security, consider to place one layer of webbing on the outside (rope side) and another on the inside. Running this concept even farther, use an adhesive. A problem arises with nylon, as very few adhesives will stick to nylon or polypropylene (a common tarp material).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T10:41:32.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10549" CreationDate="2021-09-02T14:19:36.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Embedding inkjet prints (which I'm pretty sure is what Walmart photo station prints are) is a little challenging.  The resin can not only liberate the dried ink but also the paper itself can change color as it saturates in the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better to not let the inked paper touch the resin directly.   Get a spray can of flat clear coat.  I have used Krylon but any brand should do.  Put the picture down on an old cardboard box or some other surface that you don't mind being coated in overspray, and give it a very light misting from farther away than the recommended 6-12 inches.  You aren't trying to get it wet with this spray paint as this can distort the ink too.  Instead, use multiple super light layers to build up a protective coat on the front, letting each layer dry before applying the next.  Once you feel that the front is sufficiently sealed and protected, repeat the process on the back. You can be a little heavier when doing the back because the front coating is now holding the ink in place, but don't go nuts and drench the back in one shot.  Once you have coated both front and back and after that coating has been given more than recommended time to dry, you should be able to embed the coated image in resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point what you are doing is embedding the hardened clear coat in the resin.  The inkjet photo is just along for the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T14:19:36.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-03T12:58:02.210" Score="5" ViewCount="2134" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instructions on resin casting with silicone moulds frequently say to use a long necked lighter on the surface of two part epoxy casting resin to remove bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am in an environment where naked flames are prohibited can I use a hair dryer or another similar heat source to achieve a similar effect or does it need to be a flame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T20:32:48.283" Title="Can I use a hair dryer to remove bubbles from casting resin?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|casting|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2021-09-03T20:38:07.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answer provided some good details, but I don’t believe it was what you were looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The art style name that consists of big body parts and a small head which has been trending for the last few years is called “Alegria”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11749" LastActivityDate="2021-09-03T20:38:07.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10553" CreationDate="2021-09-03T20:47:31.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hair dryer is actually a bad way to deal with bubbles.  It blows too much air, too little heat, and can blow dust onto the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start by minimizing bubbles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many techniques to minimize bubbles in the first place.  That would really be a good subject for a separate question, so I won't get into that tangent here.  But that's the first step --minimize the bubbles you will need to deal with.  Avoiding as many as you can is better than trying to get rid of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kinds of bubbles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many kinds and sources of bubbles.  If you own a vacuum chamber, you can eliminate one source of bubbles by extracting them from the resin before you pour it.  If you own a pressure pot and have a small mold that will fit inside, you can shrink tiny bubbles that have trouble rising to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, as a practical matter, you can deal with just a few large bubbles deep in the resin, or bubbles that rise to the surface.  If the resin is viscous or fast-setting (hint: don't use fast-setting resin for molding or coating), bubbles may have trouble rising to the surface.  Those you can encourage out with a pin or toothpick.  Surface heating isn't an effective way to get those out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's surface bubbles that you're trying to pop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ideal solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing for that is a naked flame; it's high heat that will instantly pop the bubbles without significantly affecting the cure, with very little air movement and no dust.  In fact, it can burn off dust, leaving much less visible residue.  You can use a small butane lighter rather than a blow torch.  You pass it close and quickly over the bubbles.  However, if you must work where naked flames are prohibited, even that isn't an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternative solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next best solution will be a source of high heat with the least possible air movement.  A wind can affect the resin surface.  It can blow resin out of the mold or cause excessive resin to spill off a flat surface you're trying to coat.  A wind causes unevenness and ripples in the surface.  If you combine that with heat and overdo it, you can end up with a surface that isn't mirror-flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest thing to this requirement is a heat gun.  The best type for this is an embossing heat tool, the kind used for working with embossing powders.  They get hot with minimal air flow because that would blow away the embossing powder.  If you don't have one of those, a regular heat gun is the next best thing.  If it has a high and low setting, and the high setting also blows a lot more air, use the low setting.  If the high setting is just hotter, use the high setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to get the feel for speed and distance.  You need to hold the heat gun far enough away so you aren't blowing a strong wind on the surface (around 6&amp;quot; for a hot blower with low air volume).  You don't want to keep it in one area until bubbles pop; it should be hot enough at the surface that bubbles pop quickly as you pass over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick video from a resin supplier on doing it with a regular heat gun: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZckiG0CQz0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZckiG0CQz0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I'll add addressing your comment about using a soldering iron or burning tool (a great question).  That's a bad idea for two reasons: it's bad for you, the resin, and the tool, and it isn't effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bad for you, the resin, and the tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin that touches the tool will cook, putting off bad fumes and smells that can range from obnoxious to hazardous.  While the tool is touching the resin, it will start to cure the resin in that spot, so the spot may not end up mirror flat, and worse, may discolor or start to boil and create even more bubbles.  It will also be a mess to clean off the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ineffective&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the heat source is to cause bubbles of all sizes and quantities to pop without having to touch the surface.  The kind of heat that's useful for this is high heat that causes rapid expansion of the air in the bubble so the bubble pops before the resin surface gets hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A soldering iron or burning tool can get very hot, but they don't radiate enough of that heat to be effective at popping bubbles by just waving it near the surface.  Air is an insulator, and the tool has little radiating surface, so not much heat moves from the tool to nearby objects.  A heat gun is designed to heat air, and uses air to transfer the heat by convection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A soldering iron or burning tool would offer no benefits over popping large bubbles with a pin.  The problem is that there typically aren't just a couple of surface bubbles, and some surface bubbles are tiny.  It usually isn't practical to try to deal with them individually, and you can't pop tiny bubbles by poking them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-09-05T20:32:48.283" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T20:32:48.283" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10544" CreationDate="2021-09-05T01:10:22.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ugh, confetti stitches are the worst! Especially when it's not a full coverage piece like you're describing. But you have options :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest starting option with an even number of threads is a &amp;quot;simple loop start&amp;quot;. So instead of using two threads of colour, use one and fold it in half to make a loop at the end that you go through (on the back of the work) when you make your first stitch. Example here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://stitchedmodern.com/blogs/news/how-to-use-the-loop-method-to-start-cross-stitch-or-embroidery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://stitchedmodern.com/blogs/news/how-to-use-the-loop-method-to-start-cross-stitch-or-embroidery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finish you can use a pin stitch to anchor at the end and then follow with your usual finish technique to tuck in the threads. Pin stitch: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iA8JCvgZHwE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iA8JCvgZHwE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always park each colour as you do it, then go back and do your usual finish after, even turning around and going back through a second time, since there's so few stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a single technique that can do it all, check out the loop start/finish in this video. It doesn't seem to have a special name, but it works no matter how many (or how few) threads you're using and you don't even have to turn your work over to do it!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xke09TSAMcg&amp;amp;t=15s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xke09TSAMcg&amp;amp;t=15s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very useful if you're working on a large frame, which is what prompted me to learn it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11755" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T01:10:22.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2183" CreationDate="2021-09-05T09:57:13.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have good access to the outer surface of the wood itself (i.e. if it's not covered in fabric), I'd glue another 1/4&amp;quot; or better 1/2&amp;quot; layer of ply to the outside, and use woodscrews that go through both layers to attach a caster that has 4 screw holes.  Use the fattest woodscrews that will fit through the caster plates, with a slightly tight pilot hole right through the wood.  You may want to cut the tips off the screws to avoid damaging the interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ply to ply with wood glue will be very strong, but still I wouldn't just uses pieces the size of the caster plates, instead one piece for both casters at one end, another piece for the casters at the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T09:57:13.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-05T15:43:28.257" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know if sketching is a drawing skill, and if can I use drawing exercises to develop my sketching skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11757" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-05T19:36:46.460" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T19:36:46.460" Title="Is sketching a drawing skill? And can I use drawing exercises to develop my sketching skill?" Tags="|drawing|sketching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10560" CreationDate="2021-09-05T19:28:11.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the definitions of some of your words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by sketching you mean the random doodling without goal that many people engage in as a tension release, then probably not.  Yes, such doodling is practice at pencil control and may allow you to discover some interesting curve sequences and shading techniques, but it isn't going to help you develop your artist's eye.  And since it is pursued without goal, the end product doesn't have to stand up to rendering criteria.  If you start doodling with the image of a horse in your mind and later decide that is looks more like a dog, then you are no closer to gaining the ability to deliberately render horses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the other hand your definition of sketching has goal, if you call it sketching (as opposed to drawing) because you intend to keep it locked up in a sketch book that you never show to anyone, then this kind of sketching will immensely assist you in learning to draw.  Sketches aren't sacred, so when you make a mistake in a sketch, you can not only erase and fix it, you can write down on the blank space on the page exactly what you did wrong and how you corrected it.  If the mistake is too big, you can move a few inches over on the page and leaving the earlier attempt in place to document the failure, start again.  As long your sketching is an attempt to render a specific object or scene, then your sketching is adding to your ability to draw specific objects and scenes in a most valuable way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that having been said, it all depends on your definition of the words &amp;quot;drawing skill&amp;quot;.  If your intention is to learn how to make abstract but beautiful patterns on the page without concern for how well your creation reflects real life, if your goal is to make people feel something when they look at your creation even if they never truly figure out what it is you were trying to portray, if your definition of drawing has nothing to do with rendering reality, then everything that I have offered here is worthless and you will have to explore your art without my assistance to find your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T19:28:11.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10560" CreationDate="2021-09-05T19:36:04.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sketching is a form of drawing. Often a drawing starts out as a sketch. So, yes, you can definitely do drawing exercises to develop your sketching skills - the more so because many drawing exercises consist of sketching something, like the basic shapes, or the construction of shadows or perspective lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your question brings up two interesting points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is hard to tell when a sketch becomes a drawing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A sketch can be defined as an unfinished drawing, but has become a form of art in its own right, likely due to its expressionistic character.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sketching is usually not really regarded as a skill itself.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This probably has to do with the fact that while a sketch usually leads to drawing, it is a lot more free-form and idiosyncratic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These matters are tied in with the fact that drawings, and especially sketches, only came to be regarded as meaningful, interesting, and - especially - valuable  artworks themselves after during the renaissance the idea of the artist as an individual was introduced (through humanist ideology, think about the concepts of the &lt;em&gt;genius&lt;/em&gt; and the &lt;em&gt;homo universalis&lt;/em&gt;, for example). But for most of the history of the visual arts most drawings only formed the preparatory steps for paintings or sculptures, which were made of much more valuable materials that could not be wasted by experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T19:36:04.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2183" CreationDate="2021-09-05T21:19:39.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a washer behind the nut on the inside would have been stronger, but it sounds like the castor plate is still secure, just the wheel broke off.  Chris H's solution of adding more wood and using wood screws is a good mechanical solution, but the added thickness may ruin the illusion of the legs if they're supposed to look like they touch the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, I would look at replacing the castor (possibly with one that is more heavy duty but the same diameter), with one that has the same mounting hole pattern.  Since your fastening job held up better than the castor, fasten the replacement with the same bolts and nuts.  The problem will be handling the nut under the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tightening the nut originally may have pulled it into the wood a little, which will help.  The process I would try is this, working with one screw at a time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use some form of makeshift clamp to hold the nut in position through the fabric.  Then back out the screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use super glue in a dispenser with a long needle tip (available as a thin metal or plastic tube), and get a little super glue between the edge of the wood hole and the nut.  It will wick into the gap between them.  Avoid getting it in the nut's thread (although you can put a drop of acetone into the thread if you do).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the glue on that nut is cured, move on to the next screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The super glue is only to keep the nut in position under the fabric.  It may shear when you tighten the screws on the new castor, so you probably won't be able to excessively tighten them.  But you don't need to, they only need to be snug.  You can put a drop of thread locker on the end of the screw or into the nut threads to keep the screw secure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-09-05T21:19:39.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10565" CreationDate="2021-09-07T19:48:43.813" Score="1" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in making a &lt;a href=&quot;https://magpiegames.com/product/noteboard-bundle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Noteboard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o227t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o227t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a whiteboard that folds to pocket size.  The image shows what's sold as a bundle of the whiteboard in the background plus a carrying pouch and some dry-erase markers.  The whiteboard is 35&amp;quot; x 15&amp;quot; and folds to 3&amp;quot; x 5&amp;quot; size to carry around.  That's the part I want to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems straightforward enough. If I had to guess, the basic structure is some sort of laminated and cut paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see it, there are three main moving parts to the challenge (metaphorically speaking):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it actually plain old laminate or something better suited for whiteboard markers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The the slides of paper are obviously not laminated adjacent to one another in a static way, so how is that accomplished?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not sufficient to laminate a bunch of slides separately and then, say, tie them together. This is because, even though you can now fold the whiteboard to a pocket-sized shape, as intended, you can no longer draw a continuous line across multiple slides. How can you also have every point still connected?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11768" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-09-08T06:52:17.493" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T06:52:17.493" Title="How do you make a Noteboard?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10564" CreationDate="2021-09-08T00:32:15.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture, it looks like a lamination.  It is probably cardstock with a very thin lamination layer on each side.  The cardstock is die cut from a full-size sheet, separating each rectangle except for an area in the middle horizontally and vertically to keep the rectangles aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lamination layers are probably embossed on the folds to help seal the layers to each other in the gaps between the rectangles, and to make them thinner and flexible on the folds.  The surface isn't likely flat everywhere, there are probably grooves at the folds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of construction wouldn't be difficult with commercial equipment, but you would have a hard time replicating it the exact same way at home.  But if you have access to some tools and are willing to put in a lot of time, you could produce something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make one large board, you would need a roll laminator.  That's also the only practical way to handle the very thin lamination film that would facilitate folding.  You might be able to get a library, school, or printshop to do that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could tape together 3&amp;quot;x5&amp;quot; cards to maintain the alignment for laminating, using a small piece of tape in the middle of each side.  But you need to consider the type of tape.  Most normal clear tapes and their adhesives won't do well in the heat of a lamination machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to use something like small rectangles of thin paper (to avoid creating a ridge in the lamination), like wrapping tissue, and a glue stick in that area on the card edges.  You don't need a lot of strength or longevity, just something thin to maintain alignment for lamination that won't shrink, melt, ooze, or discolor.  It will also be much easier to fold if most of the gap between the cards is empty, so use the shortest practical pieces to join the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative would be to get a large piece of cardstock and cut out the slots between the rectangles, leaving a small area on each side to maintain alignment.  Paper might be easier to fold because each layer will be thinner, but it will be less rigid (more like a book cover than a board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gap between the cards is important for folding, and folding in two directions adds a little complication.  In the first fold direction, you can fan-fold, so the creases just need to be adequate to make a 180° fold (and on alternating faces for what will be mountain and valley folds).  It will probably take two or three adjacent scores, each bending a little, to achieve a flat, 180° fold that doesn't quickly fatigue and break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the other direction, you're trying to fold many layers.  You can fan-fold, but there will be a lot of thickness.  Each successive layer of the fold needs to be wider, and the gap between cards in this direction will need to be wider than the gap in the first fold direction.  To get the folds to nest and lay flat, you might need to score each successive layer slightly farther apart (by twice the thickness of the sandwich).  Also, fan-folding in the first direction means that the scores for the second fold direction need to be on alternating faces for each row of cards.  It will take some planning.  Fan fold a sheet of paper in one direction, then the other, then reopen it to create a guide for scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For folding, you could use a scoring tool and straight-edge to make several adjacent scores for each fold.  You'll need a good embossing surface for scoring the sandwich.  A rotary scoring tool (looks like a pizza cutter with a dull edge), would probably do the best job on this.  It also might help the folding if you perforate the creases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-09-08T00:42:36.863" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T00:42:36.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9038" CreationDate="2021-09-08T20:15:14.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It also matters how much the sleeve cap is curved. A steeply curved sleeve cap needs to be set it, medium or low curves can be done with either method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11774" LastActivityDate="2021-09-08T20:15:14.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2183" CreationDate="2021-09-09T12:52:29.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use No More Nails mounting adhesive, and regular nails in combination (the nails clamp the parts while the glue is drying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply No More Nails to both surfaces, and then pin the caster in place using regular nails. Between them they should provide sufficient bonding to survive anything that you could reasonably throw at them. No More Nails has a very thick consistency that allows it excellent surface bonding because it gets into every crack and grain and then dries to a solid consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-09-10T23:32:21.993" LastActivityDate="2021-09-10T23:32:21.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-09T13:59:23.093" Score="1" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use liquid silicone to make several simple moulds, which I will then use to make resin casts. My aim is to mass produce a custom miniature base, that I originally 3D printed, in two part epoxy as it's faster to cast 50 bases than to print them if I make several molds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the simplest possible container that I can pour the silicon in to while it sets around my miniature base?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, would a plastic Tupperware box be sufficient, or a Pyrex dish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-09-09T15:02:15.470" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T20:30:31.710" Title="Simple as possible DIY box for making silicone molds" Tags="|epoxy-resin|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10568" CreationDate="2021-09-09T15:11:35.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aeromarineproducts.com/mold-making-101/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AeroMarine Products' page on moldmaking&lt;/a&gt;, (emphasis from source)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, silicone RTV mold making rubber does not stick to anything, and nothing will stick to it. &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The exception is that it will stick to itself, other silicones, silica, and glass.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, I have used cut-down and clean milk cartons, which make an effective base for a square mold. YouTube resin caster &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/c/Rybonator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rybonator&lt;/a&gt; has used single-use plastic cups, paper cups, plastic food containers, and custom-built constructs made of stiff cardboard to produce molds. I've additionally seen multiple cases of people building their mold box out of Lego blocks, an example of which can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myfluxcapacitor.com/silicone-mold-making-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key points you'll want to consider are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid any material to which resin will stick (no glass, silicone, or other silicates).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid anything that will later be used for food. If you aren't using food-safe silicone, it's best to err on the side of caution and keep your casting materials separate from anything you'll use for preparing or serving food.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T15:11:35.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10568" CreationDate="2021-09-09T20:30:31.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are already skilled at 3d printing, have you considered 3d printing a custom shaped box slightly larger than each specific base requires.  Doing this would minimize the amount of rubber you need and give you a great place to story your rubber molds between uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even print thin seams in these custom shaped boxes to allow them to be bent away from the rubber, easing its removal from the box at the end of the mold making process.  Such deflection points could easily bend back into their original shape to hold and reinforce the mold during future casting sessions and storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T20:30:31.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-12T23:25:20.057" Score="7" ViewCount="2547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm buying new pencils (all of the paint has flaked off of them so I don't know if they are 2B or HB), and I'm wondering which pencil lines are easier to erase. I googled it but all of the answers were very vague, and I'm newer to art so I didn't understand it too much.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If someone could please give me a nice, simple answer on which one erases better, that would be really helpful.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(Just to clarify, my eraser isn't the problem, I think. I'm using a Milan oval eraser, which works really nicely.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11789" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-16T16:54:04.550" LastActivityDate="2022-07-16T10:06:55.150" Title="Which pencil is easier to erase: 2B or HB?" Tags="|pencils|erasers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10574" CreationDate="2021-09-13T06:41:21.830" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, &lt;strong&gt;softer pencils are easier to erase.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Even though this may seem counterintuitive, as softer pencils produce darker lines, they contain proportionally more graphite and less binder (clay). Harder pencils maintain their shape longer and tend to produce relatively finer and lighter lines: this also means they are generally applied using slightly more force, which can crease the paper and make it harder for erasers to reach the graphite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is slightly dependent on other factors, as well, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brand and series: although similar, the ranges of pencils from different manufacturers are not equal - there is no hardness/softness standard. So the rule-of-thumb mentioned above might not always apply to drawings made with pencils from different manufacturers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Softer pencils are more receptive to smudging, which is harder to erase, because the graphite gets rubbed into the texture of the paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: there are also effects of an optical nature at work here: the darker marks of the softer pencils will seem to be erased more effectively because the difference in contrast will be more evident, and as harder pencils tend to leave creases these can be mistaken for traces of graphite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-02T09:02:46.523" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T09:02:46.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-14T00:51:05.957" Score="7" ViewCount="1064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to oil pastels. I was wondering if there was such a thing as oil pastel pencils. I thought I saw them during a Google search.  But now all I can find are hard pastels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11794" LastEditorUserId="352" LastEditDate="2021-09-16T14:12:25.503" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T09:23:57.593" Title="Do oil pastel pencils exist?" Tags="|drawing|oil-pastels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10576" CreationDate="2021-09-15T13:38:50.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never come across anything resembling wood-encased solid oil pastel cores, but was able to find &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;oil-based soft core pastel pencils&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; by Schpirerr - these can easily &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/search?q=%22oil-based%22%20%22soft%20core%22%20%22pastel%22%20%22pencils%22%20%22Schpirerr%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;be found online&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Based on the texture, gloss, and opacity of the drawings made with them (as seen among the product photos), these seem to come close to the typical pasty oil pastels but in pencil form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other &lt;em&gt;oil-based&lt;/em&gt; coloured pencils will however also allow you to more easily draw on top of regular oil pastels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else you can do to improve drawing accuracy is to sharpen the regular oil pastel sticks using a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest perusing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/topic/is-there-such-thing-as-oil-pastel-pencils/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this topic on WetCanvas&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-18T09:23:57.593" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T09:23:57.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10576" CreationDate="2021-09-15T19:53:34.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of the confusion may be the nomenclature.  There are oil pastel pencils, but they aren't like oil paint in a pencil body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colored pencil &amp;quot;lead&amp;quot; (the core), is generally pigment (colored powder) in a binder.  The binder is like a paste that is blended with the pigment.  The mixture is extruded into a rod that hardens enough to function as a lead (there are some additional steps in the process, but that's the gist).  The lead is glued inside a wooden cover to make the pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lead has to be hard enough to be useful.  It needs to be rigid and strong, but abradable by the paper surface so it leaves a mark.  Any colored pencil core will be hard.  The differences in the binder material affect the nature of the mark it leaves, and characteristics like how easy it is to sharpen it and use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get beyond the very cheapest colored pencils, most use a binder that is wax-based.  These are relatively easy and inexpensive to manufacture.  An oil-based binder can be used, which is more difficult and expensive to manufacture.  The result has a different feel, and requires more skill to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comparison of wax-based vs. oil-based core&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youshouldcreate.com/oil-based-colored-pencils/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Introduction to Oil-Based Colored Pencils&lt;/a&gt; has a good summary of the differences between wax-based and oil-based cores, which I'll summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Core hardness&lt;/strong&gt; – Wax pencils generally having a much softer lead. This leads to them breaking more easily when sharpening and not holding a sharp tip as well as their oil-based counterparts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Usability&lt;/strong&gt; – The reason that oil-based colored pencils are generally reserved for more advanced users is due the skill required to use them properly. Though they have a harder lead, they are much more susceptible to color smearing when on the page. Also oil-based colored pencils require slightly different techniques in their use, with a more deliberate and accurate layer of colors required to give the desired look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the ease with which oil colored pencils put down material, they are also more difficult to erase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blooming&lt;/strong&gt;  – One major downside found in the use of wax-based pencils in their tendency to bloom. This is a process by which wax is slowly drawn to the surface of the drawing over time. This can lead to a cloudy white film developing on the surface of a piece over time.  This is not an issue at all when using oil-based colored pencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Look&lt;/strong&gt; – The main reason for the existence of oil-based pencils is ultimately the look that can be achieved; the vibrancy and the way these pencils blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some differences in the techniques used between the two different types of colored pencil, but the above covers the bulk of the differences in the experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bestcoloredpencils.com/best-oil-colored-pencils/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Best Oil Colored Pencils - A detailed analysis of oil colored pencils&lt;/a&gt; also has a good bullet summary of key differences, presented as pros and cons of oil-based pencils relative to wax-based:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great control over color layering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be sharpened to a fine point which helps in intricate areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less prone to breaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unique blending.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can last for a long time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not beginner-friendly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less color per pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not as many sizes and sets available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The citations both include links to specific brands of oil-based pencils (I can't really comment on the products mentioned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-09-15T19:59:50.007" LastActivityDate="2021-09-15T19:59:50.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-17T07:54:57.750" Score="5" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have stack of nice paper, but it runs against the grain, when used for handbook binding. When binding, the paper grain needs to be parallel to the book binding edge. What happens if a book is bound against the grain? When &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the book: the cover, the boards, the endpapers, the inner book, etc. are diagonal to the edge of the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I expect backing to become harder or even impossible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the book bend on the long term?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there other possible consequences?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11808" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-17T10:38:08.497" LastActivityDate="2022-12-25T12:24:08.563" Title="Binding a book against the grain" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10585" CreationDate="2021-09-18T12:31:00.410" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often see/have owned sketchbooks from various brands that are described as 'Goldline'. What is Goldline? Is it a type of paper? A specific weight? A manufacturer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11817" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T16:10:03.897" Title="What is Goldline? Is it a paper? A manufacturer?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10583" CreationDate="2021-09-18T16:10:03.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Goldline is a registered trademark and brand name of ExaClair, a company that owns a number of more commonly known brands in the general areas of paper, fine arts supplies, office supplies, etc.  The Goldline trademark is applied to a range of products from various companies under the ExaClair umbrella, like Clairefontaine and Exacompta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-09-18T16:10:03.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10665" CreationDate="2021-09-19T21:41:10.983" Score="3" ViewCount="1362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting a home foundry, based in the UK to make small metal casts in aluminium and bronze - practicing with aluminium and moving on to bronze once I've got the skills and equipment set up right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking at building a furnace using the standard metal drum and refractory cement method but also wondering if &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.potterycrafts.co.uk/ProductGrp/p59230-aurora-40lt-1260c-top-loading-kiln&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the following sort of unit&lt;/a&gt; could be used to melt bronze to pour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2JGk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2JGk.png&quot; width=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes to the right temperature, and can be carefully controlled and run on household power so it would work well I think.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The sorts of reasons I can think of that it might not work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;opening the kiln at the top temp of around 1000 °C could damage it in some way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it goes to the right temperature but can't stay that hot for very long?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it goes to the right temperature but won't open at top temp as a safety feature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it costs too much to run at the that temp for long enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there is some sort of reaction with the metal and the materials of the kiln manufacture?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the construction (firebricks, metal shell, element) is not sturdy enough to stand up to casting temperatures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the kiln does not have ventilation for the fumes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not used for melting the metal, I would still probably need to open it at a high temp when taking out ceramic shells after they have been preheated in a kiln like this prior to pouring in the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who has any information, links or experience would be very much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11826" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-20T06:36:10.537" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T19:30:02.290" Title="Can you use a standard ceramic kiln to melt bronze for casting?" Tags="|tool-selection|casting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10596" CreationDate="2021-09-20T20:24:41.707" Score="4" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you call two identical shapes overlapping to form a perfect square or circle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvfFS.png&quot; width=&quot;350&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l2av1.png&quot; width=&quot;350&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQTO4.jpg&quot; width=&quot;350&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QQd1C.png&quot; width=&quot;350&quot;&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are simple examples; I want more complicated examples or the name of this type of art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a drawing where the negative space is identical to the positive space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11834" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-25T06:30:46.660" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T07:32:14.873" Title="What do you call two identical shapes overlapping to form a perfect square or circle?" Tags="|terminology|style-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10588" CreationDate="2021-09-20T23:58:17.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would call your example a square spiral. Most people wouldn't think of it as it two overlapping identical shapes. Rather, they would think of the black spiral as the one shape. The nearly-identical white shape is simply formed by the negative space outlined by the black spiral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find more complicated spiral patterns, have a look at search results for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=greek%20key%20spiral&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS821US821&amp;amp;sxsrf=AOaemvLi74ViQg5A-b1p7WOG8HPEu6x7FA:1632181159096&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwiDjcnR3I7zAhXZWc0KHW1oCvkQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=947&amp;amp;dpr=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Greek key spiral patterns&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://pixels.com/featured/greek-key-ornament-greek-meander-black-on-gold-lioudmila-perry.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An example&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21tAn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21tAn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=labyrinth%20pattern&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwitoqPh3I7zAhVRbK0KHUtKCEQQ2-cCegQIABAA&amp;amp;oq=labyrinth%20pattern&amp;amp;gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBggAEAUQHjIGCAAQBRAeMgYIABAFEB4yBggAEAUQHjIGCAAQBRAeMgYIABAFEB46BwgAELEDEEM6CggAELEDEIMBEEM6BAgAEENQhtkbWPXkG2D06htoAHAAeACAAV-IAZQFkgEBOJgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&amp;amp;sclient=img&amp;amp;ei=yBtJYa2eAdHYtQXLlKGgBA&amp;amp;bih=947&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS821US821&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Labyrinth patterns&lt;/a&gt;, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLLxq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLLxq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://timelesslabyrinths.com/types/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar patterns are used in Celtic art. You can find a selection in search results for &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=celtic%20spiral&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS821US821&amp;amp;sxsrf=AOaemvJ8rsediOtkyUr5wEE0hyB67--ZGw:1632181879672&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwit3JWp347zAhXJ_rsIHQXOAr0Q_AUoAXoECAEQAw&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=947&amp;amp;dpr=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Celtic spiral&lt;/a&gt;,&amp;quot; for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6A1X.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6A1X.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NryOk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NryOk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(images without specific source links are from the linked Google image search results)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2021-09-20T23:58:17.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10587" CreationDate="2021-09-22T16:08:23.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One answer to a question you did not ask; You will need a minimum of 4000 watts of power to have any hope of melting bronze . Much more power would be much better. The point is that it is not worth going further unless you have the necessary power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="3114" LastEditDate="2021-09-24T18:34:11.917" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T18:34:11.917" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8187" CreationDate="2021-09-22T20:25:46.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With most fountain pens, adjusting the rate of inkflow usually comes down to adjusting the fit of the feed (the plastic piece that lies against the nib) to the nib. The bigger the airgap between the two, the faster the inkflow will be, and the smaller the airgap, the slower the inkflow. However, while it's typically very easy to adjust for more inkflow, adjusting for less can be harder and may essentially destroy the pen if you don't know what you're doing, since you may have to heat up the plastic of the feed to reform it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most vintage fountain pens have the nib and feed friction fit into the section of the pen (the ring that screws into the barrel), so you could try adjusting the nib up/down, relative to the feed to try and get more or less of the feed in contact with the nib, and see if that does anything. But some modern pens may have the feed/nib secured (glued) to the section in some way, so you might risk breaking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that there are also two plates in a Pilot Parallel nib, you could also consider adjusting the distance between the plates to affect inkflow. I would suggest wearing gloves, or filling the pen and testing with water, if you want to avoid staining your fingers with ink. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2021-09-22T20:25:46.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-24T19:14:13.473" Score="4" ViewCount="4780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making moulds using an off the shelf two part silicone compound. I've made a mistake with one mould and while it's solid the surface is still tacky after 24 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that I can do to salvage this mould, or should I regard it as a complete loss, throw it away and start again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mold is supposed to be for casting using a 2 party epoxy resin. I'd prefer to salvage it if possible as it used about a 1/4 of my supply of silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-09-27T12:37:37.950" LastActivityDate="2023-09-20T13:45:08.243" Title="Can a home made silicone mould that's still tacky after 24 hours be salvaged, or is it a complete loss?" Tags="|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10588" CreationDate="2021-09-24T21:28:54.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A possible term is '&lt;strong&gt;counterchange pattern&lt;/strong&gt;':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Patterning in which a dark motif on a light ground alternates with the same motif [in] light on a dark ground.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lexico.com/definition/counterchange&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lexico.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iziPZ.gif&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtC4g.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z0ROX.jpg&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-patterns/counterchange-pattern-allied-to-the-chess-board-design.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://brianrussell.typepad.com/weblog/2005/07/art_ideas_count.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Frisian artist &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M._C._Escher&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M.C. Escher&lt;/a&gt; famously made extensive use of this type of pattern, inventing a lot of new ones.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Take a look at his work &lt;em&gt;Metamorphosis III&lt;/em&gt; from 1967-68, for example, which contains many patterns of this type, all organically transforming into one another:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ogVGs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ogVGs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;M.C. Escher, Metamorphosis III&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, they are not all counterchange patterns: often Escher's patterns involve two distinct units, being not only visually but also symbolically inverted (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dejvid.net/blog/2018/6/19/on-the-case-of-eschers-angels-and-devils&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;angels and devils&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For more examples, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://mathstat.slu.edu/escher/index.php/Regular_Division_of_the_Plane_Drawings&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A broader term that incorporates both types of patterning is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tessellation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tesselation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;An arrangement of shapes closely fitted together, especially of polygons in a repeated pattern without gaps or overlapping.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lexico.com/definition/tessellation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lexico.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://ttps://eschersket.ch/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;eschersket.ch&lt;/a&gt; if you're interested in creating repeating patterns yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-25T07:32:14.873" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T07:32:14.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-09-24T22:50:12.157" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make the following bend in 3/16&amp;quot; or 1/4&amp;quot; x 1.5&amp;quot; steel flat stock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIVL9m.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIVL9m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that on most bench type benders, I don't think you can do two opposing bends like this. I know I can do it on a hydraulic press with a 1.5&amp;quot; block die, but I don't have that equipment. Is there a way to do this on an ordinary bender either of the Hossfeld type or an auto-body type bracket bender?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2021-09-24T22:50:12.157" Title="Is there a way to make a U-bend using a Hossfeld type bender?" Tags="|metalworking|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2023-02-11T01:04:55.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2021-09-25T10:52:00.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's still tacky after 24 hours, that's not a good sign.  If it feels solid, you can try cleaning it to see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least some types of uncured silicone mix well with limonene, a solvent made from citrus peels that smells like oranges (use pure limonene, not a cleaner or other product that contains it as an ingredient).  The stuff isn't cheap (best price is currently around $20 per quart in the US, so you might spend more trying to clean the mold than the value of the silicone if you succeed, which isn't guaranteed).  If you can't get limonene, you can try mineral spirits, but that doesn't work nearly as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the mold in a sealable container, using standoffs or fishing line to suspend the mold with all faces exposed.  The best container material for limonene is PETE, but polyethylene or polypropylene will work for the short time they will be in contact with the solvent.  Polyethylene or polypropylene may temporarily swell, and the limonene will eventually start to pass through it, so don't store it long term in those plastics.  An airtight metal container will also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immerse the mold in the solvent for about a day.  The mold may swell.  The solvent will penetrate the silicone to some depth and leach out some of the subsurface uncured silicone.  Then wash the mold well in soapy water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limonene will be contaminated with silicone, so the only potential reuse for it would be recleaning the mold if more uncured resin leaches out over time, or cleaning future silicone disasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the mold sit for several days until there is no more orange smell and no signs of swelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the surface is still tacky, the mold is a lost cause.  If this process cleans the surface well, keep in mind that the silicone didn't cure properly, so it may not perform well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-09-27T12:38:47.147" LastActivityDate="2021-09-27T12:38:47.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10600" CreationDate="2021-09-25T12:23:02.640" Score="6" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some clay that I used some 10 years ago.  Now it is hard and dry.  Can I reuse it by adding water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11863" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-09-25T19:01:16.363" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T19:01:16.363" Title="Can I reuse sculpting clay that is very old?" Tags="|clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10599" CreationDate="2021-09-25T18:54:50.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can rehydrate even bone dry clay.  There are many videos online for how to do this.  A good one is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C64hVjTX8ak&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rehydrating Hard Clay the Even Easier Way&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several methods, but an easy one involves just preparing the block of clay and then leaving it alone for three or four days while it rehydrates. You add an appropriate amount of water to a plastic bag containing the clay, and immerse that bag in a large container of water to push the water in the bag against the whole block of clay so it isn't just pooled at the bottom of the bag.  Then tie the bag shut to seal it and let it sit for three or four days to get evenly rehydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an odd amount of clay, err on the side of less water.  If the clay doesn't get sufficiently pliable, add a little more water and repeat the process.  It's easier to get to the right consistency this way than starting with too much water, although I've seen people just putting the block of clay in a tub of water about 2/3 as deep as the clay, and then flipping the clay every few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-09-25T18:54:50.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="411" CreationDate="2021-09-30T11:16:37.823" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use an electric eraser. The shape and size of the eraser allow me to target small details that I want to erase. The button is very touchy so you can just tap it quick to get a small erase, or hold it down for longer erases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11773" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-09-30T17:38:03.367" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T17:38:03.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-02T14:52:13.287" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making tabletop gaming scenery from foam tiles (for example: XPS insulation tiles, or generic polyurethane foam sheets brought from a hobby store), is there a good way to make it more resistant to damage from general wear and tear, if heavy metal models are knocked over when the table is jogged, or during transport?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example coating it in a particular type or resin, using a lacquer\varnish, or some other readily available substance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to coat it and then paint over the top, or to apply a transparent coating after painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-10-05T18:44:07.047" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T08:15:28.927" Title="When making tabletop gaming scenery, how can I make PU foam more dent resistant?" Tags="|miniatures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10607" CreationDate="2021-10-03T13:43:45.947" Score="5" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is the right site to put this on, so if there is a better place to ask this, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wear overalls and keep my phone in the chest pocket. My problem is that the male part of the snap inside the pocket is scratching the phone. Is there anything I can do to fix this? I've thought about cutting it out and putting a denim patch over it, but I would rather not cut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11889" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T17:41:33.117" Title="Clothes snap cover" Tags="|clothing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10606" CreationDate="2021-10-03T16:42:08.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stick some spacers in the sides of the pocket to hold it open.  Then spread a thin layer of silicone caulk over the back of the snap, extending a little onto the surrounding fabric.  Give it at least a few hours to cure (or the time specified on the container), before removing the spacers.  I'd wait until the next day for it to fully cure before using it.  It will survive washing the overalls once it's cured, won't rub off, and will prevent scratching the phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T16:42:08.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-03T18:54:40.733" Score="4" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like using hemp twine to make bracelets but I hate the smell. Is there a an odorless twine that is similar in look and feel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11890" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T21:29:52.953" Title="Is there an odorless alternative to hemp cord?" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10608" CreationDate="2021-10-03T21:29:52.953" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternate fiber&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are endless fibers available.  Since you're using hemp, I'll assume you want to stick with a natural fiber rather than man-made (correct me if that's a bad assumption).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you want to use it for bracelets, I'd rule out fibers that are rough on your skin.  The best alternative fiber may be jute.  It is generally similar to hemp but softer.  It isn't quite as strong (hemp is probably the strongest natural fiber), but it's close, and strength isn't that critical for bracelets.  One thing to be aware of is that if the bracelet gets wet, jute is more likely to shrink than hemp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting rid of the hemp odor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are happy with hemp except for the smell, you can remove the odor from hemp.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.getsmellout.com/how-to-get-smell-out-of-hemp-string-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Get Smell Out of Hemp String&lt;/a&gt; describes a number of ways to do it, which I'll summarize here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sunlight and grass.&lt;/strong&gt;  Unwind the hemp string and place the unraveled string in direct sunlight on your lawn for 6-8 hours.  The chlorophyll in the grass helps to neutralize the smell.  The sunlight dries out the cord and the UV helps break down the odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vinegar.&lt;/strong&gt;  Mix vinegar with an equal amount of water and spray the cord with it.  The article recommends drying it in sunlight, which would work similar to above (and the vinegar smell will disappear when the cord dries out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mask the odor with fabric softener.&lt;/strong&gt;  Unravel the amount of hemp string that you would like to use and place it in the dryer along with 2-3 sheets of fabric softener.  Run for 10-15 minutes on high before removing the freshened twine to place in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Absorb the odor.&lt;/strong&gt;  The article describes putting the cord in a closed paper bag with an odor absorber and letting it sit for a period while the odor is absorbed.  It recommends 2 days with half a cup of baking soda, or 5-7 days with activated charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried deodorizing hemp cord, so can't vouch for how well the methods work, or whether the odor removal is permanent.  But these solutions are cheap and easy to try.  If you really like hemp, it's probably worth trying a method or two before switching to another fiber.  I'd probably try the vinegar and sunlight method first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-10-03T21:29:52.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-04T06:05:57.343" Score="4" ViewCount="1437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a great idea for a geometric lampshade that I would like to build. Think of something roughly resembling a geodesic dome. It will be made of individual triangular panels of roughly the following shape, each of which will be made of wood, with rice paper stretched across it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dg4IJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dg4IJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;![enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about how to fasten the frames together. The frames will be made of strips of wood with a cross section of about 3mm by 15mm, which need to be attached together face-to-face, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sc9Pe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sc9Pe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can't be glued because I want to be able to take it apart again if the rice paper needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tricky thing is that the fastener needs to have a flat profile. If I were to drill a hole through them and use a bolt, the nut and the bolt head would cast a shadow on the rice paper. So I'm looking for a way to fasten them that will have a fairly flat profile and cast as little of a shadow as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's kind of hard to describe how this thing will fit together, but in the above (yellow) picture the light is shining down from the top, rather than from the side, and the rice paper is at the bottom.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, tl;dr, I'm looking for a reversible way to fasten two strips of wood about 3mm thick, such that the fastener sticks out as little as possible from the finished piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't need to be super strong because it's only for a fancy lampshade, but it would be great if each fastener is easy to install, because the thing will be nearly a complete sphere and the fasteners will be on the inside, so the last few will need to be done by reaching inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's relevant I have only very basic woodworking skills and no fancy tools, but I can use 3D printed jigs to make cuts or drill holes in the wood with reasonable accuracy. If I don't need to make holes in the wood then it will save me some work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastEditorUserId="399" LastEditDate="2021-10-04T08:17:28.547" LastActivityDate="2022-04-24T17:21:40.087" Title="Fastening thin pieces of wood with a flat profile" Tags="|wood|woodworking|fasteners|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10611" CreationDate="2021-10-04T07:39:41.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might sound crazy at first, but consider &amp;quot;sewing&amp;quot; them together. The same principle is used in (traditional) book binding, where several pages and covers are sewn together. Only in this case I would use thin wire and twist the ends to tighten it instead of using thread and tying a knot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B8Y0J.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B8Y0J.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very low profile; press the twisted end against the wood to avoid shadows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easily reversable by cutting the wire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needle nose pliers help your work in spaces where your hands wouldn't fit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to drill &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of holes very presicely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light will shine through the holes if they are too big&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread can easily rip while tightening the knot. Some materials like nylon thread can stretch over time. I suggest using wire or tiny cable ties (if they fit).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T07:39:41.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10611" CreationDate="2021-10-04T08:25:05.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use screws, just the right ones, in the right places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countersunk machine screws will put the head flush with the outer face.  I suggest M3, which I've used in similar applications. In softwood it will pull in enough that you may not need to form the countersink in advance.  The inner face is a little harder but there are options.  Unfortunately &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pts-uk.com/products/nuts/socket-countersunk-sleeve-nuts/metric-a2/a906204&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;countersunk sleeve/barrel nuts&lt;/a&gt; start at M3x7, which is too long.  However if you consider the line a shadow would cast, you could get away with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pts-uk.com/products/nuts/hexagon-thin-nuts/metric-a2/a43903&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thin nut&lt;/a&gt; (half nut).  These are normally used as locking nuts but in low-strength applications are fine used alone.  They'd combine with an M3x8 countersunk machine screw (the length includes the head for countersunk types) giving you 2mm of protrusion.  An M3 thin nut is less than that.  A little trigonometry would allow you to work out how low the nut needs to be to not cast a shadow on the screen, but since your edit I reckon you could centre the fastener within the 15mm width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly you could use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265214195055&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;screw rivets (Chicago screws)&lt;/a&gt; which are used in leatherworking. Note that the quoted size is the minimum length, so size slightly under you final thickness - go for 5mm in your case  The outer head on the one on my belt is 1.5mm, and flat, the inner head the same thickness but slotted. Again, done up tight into softwood they'll even pull in a little denting the wood.  These will look nicer on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a basic drill - I'd probably use my hand drill (eggbeater drill) for this as it's gentler than a power drill.  You may need a countersink bit or tool, but you can get away with a larger drill bit for that in wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of these approaches would allow you to do up the last few from the outside, possibly ones that will be out of sight once it's in use, and possibly with the addition of gluing the last few nuts into place to let you get the screws started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T08:25:05.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10606" CreationDate="2021-10-04T14:26:41.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another gluing approach is to get (solvent-based, not PVA) fabric glue, and glue a patch on the inside.  Get plenty of glue on the patch, but much less (try none at all at first) on the garment as too much will soak through.  As in Fixer1234's answer, you'll need to hold the pocket open.  Follow the instructions on the glue, but it might need to dry until it's tacky before pressing the patch onto the back of the fabric, covering the snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pocket is big enough you could even use iron-on hemming tape, but it probably isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T14:26:41.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10611" CreationDate="2021-10-04T16:47:02.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hold the slats together with &amp;quot;U-channel&amp;quot; binder strips.  These are plastic channels typically used to bind reports by sliding them onto the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMCxR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMCxR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image courtesy Amazon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pair of 3mm thick slats plus the rice paper will be approximately a standard capacity (1/4&amp;quot; on the US version) for these binders.  They can be cut to length, or several positioned next to each other for long runs.  They apply enough pressure so that something like a lamp shade will stay together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach doesn't require drilling any holes and leaves a finished appearance.  You can take them off to repair the rice paper and then reassemble it.  Black and white are commonly available colors, but you can find them in other colors if you hunt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They won't last forever, though.  After maybe a decade, the plastic can become brittle and they can crack.  So if you need the shade to last forever, you would want to periodically inspect it for any cracks and maybe plan on replacing the channels prophylactically every 5 years or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T16:47:02.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10611" CreationDate="2021-10-05T03:23:45.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, build some jigs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1). make a jig to hold each strip flat against the bottom like the blade of a hand plane but with an attack angle of 45 degrees.  Allow the edge of the strip to protrude downward from the skate of your homemade plane just enough that the top most edge of the strip is level with the plane of the bottom. Then apply your wooden bladed hand plane to a hard-surface mounted sheet of sand paper until the protruding edge is sanded away.  Repeat this for both ends of every strip.  This should leave you with beautiful mitered faces like the ones shown in your drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue set of three strips into your triangle shapes using wood glue and painters tape as clamps.  Once they are dry, you can build your second jig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second jig is just a larger triangle, built the same way as those which you just glued up, but made of thicker wood.  The inside opening of this larger triangle should be just big enough to allow one of your new triangles to slide inside.  This second jig should be mounted on a stable surface such that one of its equilateral faces lays flat against the base while the other two standing upright such that the pointed/mitered joint between them is at the top. Into this top point, we will want to cut a groove in the middle of each side, perpendicular to the plane of the base and parallel to the length of the bottom side.  I hope that makes sense as this isn't easy to describe.  What I am trying to set up is a saw guide which can be used to consistently cut spline channels into all three corner faces of each of your triangles.  The inner walls of this jig's encompassing triangle should hold your project triangles steady as you carefully saw each channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once this is done, you can cut small triangles out of an appropriate thickness of wood and glue them into these channels as corner splines.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thehandymansdaughter.com/spline-jig/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an article that describes the idea of splines better than I can.  It's target shape is a square box, but the idea is the same.  The jig described in that article has the corner facing downward which works well with tablesaws.  The jig I described has the corner facing upward which works better with handsaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus of this technique, the flat surface of the spline material which protrudes into the interiors of each corner of your triangles could provide a great surface to attach/glue the rice paper to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T03:23:45.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10611" CreationDate="2021-10-05T13:00:46.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I would use the so-called chicago screws. They are not countersunk though, but it will be simpler then common countersunk wood screws because for the countersunk (self-tapping) screws you will still have to drill precise holes and then extra drill the deepening for the head, which is not as easy as it seems. For the chicago screws you just drill a hole once and don't need to be super precise. Removing afterwards is also easy if you don't tighten them hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chicago screws are available in all possible sizes and you could even find some with realy thin head profiles, check on aliexpress for example.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;E.g. here is an example with a very low profile head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36NkL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36NkL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6534" LastEditorUserId="6534" LastEditDate="2021-10-05T13:27:41.533" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T13:27:41.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10606" CreationDate="2021-10-05T17:41:33.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A less chemically based approach: Instead of cutting it out and patching it, just sew a small (denim) patch on the inside of the pocket over the backside of the snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T17:41:33.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10611" CreationDate="2021-10-05T18:04:44.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magnets or velcro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are easily removable but strong enough for a lamp shade. And better yet, both parts can be made to be invisible from the inside!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the magnets, you can buy thin round magnets and then just use thin strips of metal. The best part of magnets (in my mind) is that you can use a jig to prepare all the side pieces the same; each piece would be interchangeable. See the ASCII art diagram below for my thoughts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;____________ ... _______________&#xA;|                   _______    |&#xA;|    O             |_______|   |&#xA;|___________ ... ______________|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the &lt;code&gt;O&lt;/code&gt; is a flat bottom hole &amp;quot;drilled&amp;quot; using an endmill (using a regular wood bit would work too, but lots of care needed on depth). The hole need NOT go all the way through the piece! Then you would use a router at a very shallow cut to remove only a little more depth of material than whatever metal strip you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of velcro, just do the routing part on the middle of each side piece. and instead of classic velcro maybe use some of the 3m style that both sides are the &amp;quot;hook&amp;quot; part of the velcro but can be &amp;quot;snapped&amp;quot; together. That way all pieces are the same and can be rotated and you don't have to worry about matching the female/male (aka hook/loop) of the velcro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11899" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2022-04-24T17:21:40.087" LastActivityDate="2022-04-24T17:21:40.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10574" CreationDate="2021-10-05T18:21:55.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both are pretty much equally easy to erase, especially between HB and 2B. It is much more about the way the mark was made than the lead it was made with that determines how easy it is to lift off. Same goes for very soft and very hard leads. A line drawn with force will drive the graphite deep into the paper fibers as well as embossing the line below the original paper surface, making it difficult to erase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joachim's answer is right in that soft leads are usually drawn with less pressure so are usually easier to erase. However hard leads are typically used for under drawing because their lines, when drawn lightly, are easily removed (as well as being less apparent if the artist chooses not to erase them). Actually, a lightly drawn line with a very soft lead might actually be harder to erase than a hard lead drawn with the same weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T18:21:55.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10605" CreationDate="2021-10-05T19:37:53.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;PVA glue can make the foam much more dent-resistant.  If you use polystyrene foam, many coatings and finishes will attack it.  The usual method to protect the foam is to first coat it with a layer of PVA glue.  A single paint-like coating of the glue will provide chemical protection if you get complete coverage.  Multiple coatings (three or four generous coatings, waiting for each layer to dry before adding the next), will be thick enough to create a tough plastic shell on the foam that will be generally resistant to minor dents and dings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PU is much more resistant to chemical attack by coatings and finishes, and is a lot tougher than PS foam, and less susceptible to dents and dings.  But you can still use PVA glue to create a physically protective shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make the shell even stronger and tougher by reinforcing it.  The question refers to foam tiles and sheets, so I assume the surface is flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin the PVA glue a little with water, saturate a piece of kraft paper or paper towel, and apply the paper to the foam  (thin the glue enough so it soaks in and saturates the paper, but no more than an equal amount of water).  One continuous layer of either of those kinds of paper should be enough for dent protection.  Two layers of newspaper would also work (wait for the first layer to dry before applying the second).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is paper mache, which is really tough stuff.  When it's dry, coat it with another layer of glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of paper, you can use a piece of cloth (natural fiber, like cotton), such as an old bed sheet, following the same process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shell reinforced with either paper or cloth will make the foam nearly immune to the kinds of dents and dings you're concerned about.  You can paint the surface with almost any kind of finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-10-05T19:47:50.790" LastActivityDate="2021-10-05T19:47:50.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10605" CreationDate="2021-10-06T08:15:28.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to use EVA foam.  It will bounce back undamaged.  That's what a lot of craft foam is. Cosplay foam is the same stuff but slightly denser (i.e. firmer) and comes in a wide range of thicknesses. You can also get floor mats made of EVA foam in 30cm/12&amp;quot; interlocking squares (and occasionally half that size).  The &amp;quot;top&amp;quot; is usually textured, but the back is more often smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EVA can be painted directly with acrylics, though &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Painting-and-Finishing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;priming can be useful as well&lt;/a&gt;. It's a little more expensive than PU foam, but if you're reusing the scenery repeatedly it would be well worth the extra cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-10-06T08:15:28.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-06T08:20:45.097" Score="8" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting erratic behavior when I adjust the upper thread tension knob on my sewing machine. For example, no matter how slowly I adjust it, it's either too loose or too tight. Or during sewing the tension would suddenly change from slightly loose to way too high despite me not touching the knob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it happens because I don't oil the tension discs. If I am supposed to, doesn't that mean that the thread will become greasy during sewing? And won't thread just immediately wipe the oil off of discs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find an answer to my question on the Internet. Everyone just says that the machine needs to be oiled, but nobody says if the thread tension discs should be oiled too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sewing machine is pretty old. I have lost the instruction manual, and I couldn't find a copy on the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11900" LastEditorUserId="2994" LastEditDate="2021-12-07T13:02:46.237" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T13:02:46.237" Title="Are you supposed to oil the upper thread tension discs on a sewing machine?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10623" CreationDate="2021-10-06T17:55:41.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope. You do not oil the tension discs. You may need to open it to remove lint or check for damage, rust, and wear. Then, it may be that you need new discs. But they are not part of the lubricating maintenance. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tS4pH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Singer CG 550 tension&quot; /&gt; I agree with @allison c to have it looked at by a professional on occasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need to add this information:&#xA;upper thread tension: “If the upper tension device appears not to be applying pressure on the thread when set on the half-way position, check that no lint or thread ends are lodged between the discs. Raise the presser foot (this will open the discs) and blow between the discs (or use a long-haired brush). This will remove any lint or thread ends which may be fouling the discs.&#xA;It is not realized by many sewing machine users that raising the presser foot also releases pressure on the tension discs allowing easier removal of work. This is in fact the case with all but a few very early machines. It is, therefore, very important always to thread the upper thread with the presser foot raised in order to allow the upper thread to negotiate its entry correctly into the discs.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bibliography &amp;amp; research&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Lucking, Peter; The Sewing Machine Handbook, Arco Publishing, Nee York 1985.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2021-10-11T12:52:34.577" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T12:52:34.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10630" CreationDate="2021-10-07T22:25:31.443" Score="6" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have an extremely realistic artstyle, so I fear that whenever I try to draw my very short character, they'll just look like a toddler in comparison to the others. What can I do to prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current drawing is little more than a sketch because it's kept bothering me.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBNcd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBNcd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11905" LastEditorUserId="11905" LastEditDate="2021-10-09T00:46:08.920" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T10:54:33.553" Title="How do I draw a very short human without making them look like a child?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-09T01:33:33.537" Score="3" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried a few Polytek 2-part mixtures to make expanded PU foams in the density range of 8LB per cuft. These are still too soft as I am trying to achieve the firmness and surface feel of a yoga block (mostly made of high density EVA foam). Can anyone suggest any suitable material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note that EVA foam is easily gouged damaged while PU is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11912" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-03-09T18:11:41.553" LastActivityDate="2023-03-09T18:11:41.553" Title="Is there a castable material similar to high-density EVA foam?" Tags="|foam|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-09T18:39:15.723" Score="2" ViewCount="2209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a name for the genre of making objects that look different from different angles (a kind of illusion)&amp;gt; For example the following cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/MartijnBAARDA/status/1147884991818412034?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw%7Ctwcamp%5Etweetembed%7Ctwterm%5E1147884991818412034%7Ctwgr%5E%7Ctwcon%5Es1_c10&amp;amp;ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.insider.com%2Fsquare-circle-ambiguous-cylinder-optical-illusion-2019-7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Circle &amp;amp; Square&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i2.wp.com/www.ai-claudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/keras-tensorflow-logo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tensorflow logo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about the genre of the art, but I found they are unlikely to be &amp;quot;optical illusion art&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;impossible art&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11915" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-10-09T23:58:56.100" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T16:45:15.930" Title="Art genre of objects that look different from different angles" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10627" CreationDate="2021-10-09T23:56:28.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just today, this appeared in my YouTube subscription:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-cNofvv8nk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-cNofvv8nk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Vlfm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Vlfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Intersection Solids&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(image from linked video)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is called &amp;quot;objects of intersection.&amp;quot; A search of these terms is not particularly illuminating, but the video covers the concept quite well, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally used a similar technique in the past to create pieces of &amp;quot;art&amp;quot; using text. This is generally called ambigrams and is indeed the result of two to three objects of intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baO1-HSodIs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baO1-HSodIs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above video shows the Fusion 360 sequence involved in creating an ambigram. Image below is a screen capture from the linked video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7N2c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7N2c.png&quot; alt=&quot;ambigram creation by Fusion 360&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can perform these creations using any 3D modeling software that supports Boolean intersections, although some that do not can be manipulated to accomplish the same result. For example, Fusion 360 (free, hobbyist version) supports this type of creation, while OpenSCAD (free, multi-platform) requires creative coding. Tinkercad (web based, free) does not explicitly support Boolean intersection. It's possible to use the subtraction feature on multiple copies to accomplish the objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the question in the comment regarding what genre of art should be assigned to this type of work, I refer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.typesofeverything.com/types-of-art/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Types Of Everything&lt;/a&gt;. The linked page suggests these types of art as genres:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;abstract art&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;impressionism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;expressionism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;romanticism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pointilism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;folk art&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;art nouveau&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cubism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;realism&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the list is an accurate representation of existing genres, one could consider that Intersection of Objects is a craft, not an art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2021-10-10T17:38:47.047" LastActivityDate="2021-10-10T17:38:47.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10627" CreationDate="2021-10-09T23:57:09.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an art form, or genre, it is called &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Op_art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;op art&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; (short for - you guessed it - optical art). It makes use of optical illusions, and emphasizes how our interpretation of reality can easily be 'fooled' by our visual perception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsHtT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsHtT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;This is a nice example: although a digital work, the basic idea is that the flat surface seems to contain a certain volume: it bulges towards the observer. But depending on the size of the image on your screen, it may also show another optical illusion*: interference patterns known as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moir%C3%A9_pattern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moiré fringes&lt;/a&gt; (another way to see those is to zoom the page in or out). Furthermore, as this image slides across your screen as you scroll the page, it may show additional optical illusions, such as colour fringes, or movement.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sculpture, this often derives from the observer having a fixed point of view. As a three-dimensional shape, our conception of it can easily change based on our standpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.thisiscolossal.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/illusion.gif&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Kinetic sculpture by Markus Raetz. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thisiscolossal.com/2014/01/a-kinetic-sculpture-creates-the-illusion-of-a-rotating-head/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as a more generic term, &lt;strong&gt;optical illusion (art)&lt;/strong&gt; is completely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;* This effect also comes natural to monitors, since the pixel grid has to simulate round shapes, so it may not always be an *illusion*. It can even show up due to image compression.&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-10-09T23:57:09.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2021-10-11T07:34:35.833" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all comes down to proportions. When drawing humans, the proportions of different body parts are usually measured in &amp;quot;heads&amp;quot;. One example by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.deviantart.com/leharc--blueheart&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leharc--BlueHeart on DeviantArt&lt;/a&gt;: (click the image to magnify)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1Nyz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T1Nyz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An infant is usually 4 heads tall, an adult 7 - 8 heads. In addition to that, the head of an infant has an almost circular shape, while the head of an adult is more oval.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &amp;quot;M old&amp;quot; figure and the &amp;quot;10 yr&amp;quot; one are both 7 heads tall, but the &amp;quot;old&amp;quot; one is taller because their head is oval.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hand of the &amp;quot;3 yr&amp;quot; figure aligns with the hip bones. The hand of the &amp;quot;adult&amp;quot; figure only starts at the hip bones. The finger tips reach halfway between hips and knee.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The torsos of &amp;quot;adult&amp;quot; figures tend to be 1/2 - 1 head shorter than their legs. The torsos of children are longer or as long as their legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The necks of young children are almost invisible. The necks of adults are clearly distinguishable from the shoulders and the head.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The arms and hands of young children tend to be very wide and have the same circumference throughout. The arms of adults have different angles and circumferences at the shoulders, biceps, elbow and wrist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The entire hand from wrist to fingertip is usually one head long. That means that children have shorter hands than adults.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heads of children are as wide as their torsos. The heads of adults are narrower than their torsos / rib cages.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's transfer these proportions to some fantasy races of different sizes. The following example is made by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.de/pin/440297301048686256/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clyde Rohrer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97YlN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97YlN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dwarf, halfling and half-orc are examples of stocky builds. Their torsos and legs have the same length and their fingertips reach halfway between hips and knees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gnome isn't too far off, but her legs are longer than the torso. What distinguished her from a child are her secondary sex characteristics (breasts and wide hips).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The elf, human and half-elf have very female bodies because their legs are approx. 1 head longer than their torsos. You only see that the elf is male nonetheless because of his secondary sex characteristics (square jaw, flat chest, muscled upper body).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the halfling and gnome are the most at risk of being confused for children. For the gnome the distinction is clearly made by the secondary sex characteristics. The halfling looks adult because he has a square jaw and shoulders (in comparison to the very round lines of an infant), a skull that's narrower than his torso, a clearly defined neck, long arms with varied width and a muscled chest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want your character to be muscled, you can go for the androgynous look and make the legs and arms longer than the torso. Try to keep the head narrower than the chest area, even if the face isn't human. You can also add some angles in the face and shoulders to make them look male.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5VyLz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5VyLz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFUOi.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFUOi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I didn't butcher your character too bad, but I tried to make them look more adult. The shoulders are less round, they now have a neck, the face is narrower than it was and has more angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-10-11T18:58:00.317" LastActivityDate="2021-10-11T18:58:00.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10633" CreationDate="2021-10-11T12:47:49.503" Score="8" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandma is getting old. She loves her knitting and needlework. Especially with less visitors coming to her retirement home in Covid times, it keeps up her spirits. But now she tells me her fingers are becoming too &amp;quot;crummy&amp;quot;. What other kinds of handiwork are there that might be suitable when one's dexterity declines? Ideally (but not necessarily), it would be some textile work that is easy enough to pick up. (She has been knitting, sewing, crocheting, and even knotting at various points in her life; but I suppose all of this is becoming too difficult for her). I would love to give her the necessary equipment for her upcoming birthday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11918" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T09:05:52.590" Title="My grandma's fingers are becoming too old for knitting. What alternatives are there?" Tags="|sewing|knitting|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10634" CreationDate="2021-10-12T23:54:41.557" Score="3" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen countless graphite/pencil artists use a transparent plastic sheet that they place their hand on to prevent smudging of the picture they draw. Exactly what is this called, and can you buy these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11927" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T09:56:14.460" Title="Plastic sheet for drawing to prevent smudging" Tags="|drawing|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10631" CreationDate="2021-10-13T07:58:03.323" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If she has rheumatic arthritis, the best thing she could do is continuing knitting and crocheting for short periods. Many movements that are done during physio therapy for arthritis of the hand are actually very similar to the movements during knitting. I found this pilot study &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5813366/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The knitting community-based trial for older women with osteoarthritis of the hands: design and rationale of a randomized controlled trial&lt;/a&gt; that writes (emphasis by me):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although exercise therapy has been shown effective in reducing symptoms and disability associated with HOA [Hand Osteoarthritis], adherence to treatment programs remains low.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;[...]&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The premise behind the knitting program is to &lt;strong&gt;use a meaningful occupation as the main component of an exercise program&lt;/strong&gt;. The knitting program will include two components: 1) bi-weekly 20-min knitting sessions at a senior’s club and 2) 20-min home daily knitting sessions for the five remaining weekdays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the study is not executed or not finished yet, so the results are not available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make her life (and hobby) easier, there are a number of tricks that people with arthritis or other disabilities utilize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consciously knit or crochet very loosely to reduce muscle strain. Choose thick yarns and lose patterns. This also reduces the dexterity required to work. &lt;sub&gt;source 2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try birchwood or bamboo knitting needles. Those are lighter and warmer to the touch and more flexible than metal needles, reducing strain on the hands. &lt;sub&gt;sources 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a &amp;quot;circular&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;cable&amp;quot; needle, even for flat works. That way the part of the work you're not actively knitting can rest on your lap or a table and your hands don't have to hold the weight of the whole work. &lt;sub&gt;sources 1, 2 &amp;amp; 3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch between several projects requiring different techniques. You can knit a sweater for half an hour, rest, then switch to crocheting a doily for 20 minutes, rest again, then switch to cross stitching a table cloth for half an hour. That avoids excessive, repetitive strain on your hands. &lt;sub&gt;sources 2 &amp;amp; 3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rest often while working. If your hands hurt or get stiff after working too long, consciously schedule short rests. If that means one minute of watching TV and stretching your hands after each finished row, let no-one stop you from taking those rests, not even yourself. &lt;sub&gt;sources 2 &amp;amp; 3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use acrylic, wool or wool blend yarn, because it's more flexible and forgiving. This also reduces strain to the hands. &lt;sub&gt;sources 1 &amp;amp; 3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a wide flat crocheting hook instead of a rod-shaped one. Wood is the best material because it's sturdy but flexible and warm to the touch. &lt;sub&gt;source 1&lt;/sub&gt; I've found these advertised as &amp;quot;Bosnian&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Japanese&amp;quot; hooks. Here's one random example from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/il-en/market/flat_crochet_hook&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Etsy&lt;/a&gt; (the top part is the handle and the bottom tip is the actual hook):&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmfNW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmfNW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For embroidery or cross-stitching, try a leather or rubber thimble instead of a metal or plastic one. That gives your finger more traction to pull the needle through without requiring more muscle tension or strength. &lt;sub&gt;sources 1 &amp;amp; 2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your hands hurt or are stiff, soak them in warm water for a few minutes before starting to work. That loosens up stiff muscles and reduces rheumatic pain. &lt;sub&gt;sources 2 &amp;amp; 3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use fingerless compression gloves or special knitting gloves. These put gentle pressure on your hands, which might (depending on the person) reduce pain, relieve tension and improve wrist posture. They also keep your hands warm. &lt;sub&gt;sources 2 &amp;amp; 3&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stretch your hands after working. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.knitfreedom.com/blog/knitting-pain/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to special stretches&lt;/a&gt; to relieve knitting pains. Maybe you can print some instructions for your grandma.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source 1: &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.arthritis.org/living-with-arthritis/needlework-with-arthritis/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smart Tricks to Make Needlework With Arthritis Finger-Friendly&lt;/a&gt; by the  Living With Arthritis Blog&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source 2: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.everydayhealth.com/rheumatoid-arthritis/living-with/crafting-with-ra/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The &amp;quot;Knitty&amp;quot; Gritty: Crocheting With Rheumatoid Arthritis&lt;/a&gt; by Everyday Health&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source 3: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scarfknitting.com/865/knit-arthritis/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Knit With Arthritis; What To Do When It Hurts&lt;/a&gt; by Scarf Knitting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she has other problems like a tremor that impacts her fine motor control, there are some other crafts that don't require too much dexterity she might be interested in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tatting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shuttle Tatting&lt;/a&gt; can be used to create lace, doilies and other decorative textiles. You can easily 3D print or buy tatting shuttles in different sizes and (at least in my personal experience) once you get used to the motions the technique doesn't require much dexterity or strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making yarn bowls or lamp shades or other objects with yarn. She can use glue or the more traditional method or stitching the layers together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making bowls or objects with paper maché over a balloon. She can then add a layer of yarn on top of the paper maché like a yarn bowl.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making Pompoms that can be used as ingredients for other crafts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making a seasonal wreath by wrapping yarn and ribbons around a cardboard disk or styrofoam ring. She can then add other seasonal decorations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Punchneedle work is something of a trend lately, but you have to understand the technique and have the right kind of fabric for it to work. Please consider watching some review videos online. You can use it to decorate things like pillow cases, rugs or wall decorations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-03-23T13:07:21.730" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T13:07:21.730" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10632" CreationDate="2021-10-13T09:56:14.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you can buy any generic plastic sheet for that purpose. Sturdier plastic - acrylic, PET - sheets will probably work better as they are less prone to movement.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Many artists use regular paper sheets to rest their hands on while drawing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you really want to diminish the risks of smudging, you can tape both your drawing and the plastic sheet to your working table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great alternative is to use bridges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEQc5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEQc5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jerrysartarama.com/artist-leaning-bridge&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The great advantage over sheets is that they don't need to rest on the surface, which will prevent any accidental surface damage. They are also relatively easy to craft yourself (allowing for customization).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;On the other hand, they will slightly impede your hand movement, and need some getting used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T09:56:14.460" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-15T19:23:41.273" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any solutions/suggestions for removing a paper label, whole and undamaged, from a metal can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the only thing I can think of is heat to try to soften, if possible, the glue. (What is that adhesive, anyway?) I think any chemical would be out of the question, unless it's fairly &amp;quot;volatile&amp;quot; or evaporative, like acetone/nail polish remover. Is there something I may be missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11940" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-10-16T18:39:07.737" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T23:35:23.553" Title="Solutions or suggestions for removing and preserving label from canned good?" Tags="|adhesives|paper|preservation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10625" CreationDate="2021-10-16T10:54:33.553" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to make somebody short but not childlike you cuold add features that are associated with puberty. For example, square shoulders and jawline on men and hips\bust on women.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T10:54:33.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10635" CreationDate="2021-10-16T19:04:10.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There probably isn't a universal solution because different manufacturers attach the labels in different ways and with different adhesives.  If you are dealing with very old cans, there may be additional differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with steam.  There's a good chance that it will release the glue holding the label to itself in a loop.  Unfortunately, steam will also soften the paper, so it will likely tear if you try to pull on it.  Just keep applying steam at the seam until the paper separates on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the label is also glued to the can, the steam will likely also release that.  It will penetrate paper and it will warm the can, both of which will help, but the fastest release will happen if you can direct the steam into the seam between the label and can.  As the paper releases, let gravity pull the paper away, exposing more seam as you work your way around the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the paper is glued to the can only at the seam where it is glued to itself, and if you can sacrifice the seam, you could just use a hobby knife to cut the label off on both sides of the seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T19:04:10.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10641" CreationDate="2021-10-18T12:06:20.227" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a necklace from ring shaped beads, which have two holes through which the beading wire runs diametrically (similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32795305746.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;). While all other rings will be filled with other beads, I'd like to keep the last ring open and use it as part of a toggle clasp. However I'm unsure how to attach it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilayk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilayk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have thought of two possible approaches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run the beading wire through one hole, bring it back on the outside and fixate it with crimping beads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PA14n.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PA14n.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantage: beading wire will be visible where it crosses the outside of the bead and this will add extra space between the last ring and the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a headpin through one hole, wrap the outside end into a loop and attach this loop to a loop of the beading wire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9p0es.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9p0es.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantage: adds extra space between the last ring and the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, any suggestions on how to attach the ring bead without adding extra space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8081" LastEditorUserId="8081" LastEditDate="2021-10-18T13:49:18.613" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T19:19:54.803" Title="Attach ring shaped bead for use as toggle clasp" Tags="|jewelry|beads|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10640" CreationDate="2021-10-18T19:19:54.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can envision a number of approaches to avoid wrapping the wire around the ring and the need for crimping beads.  The exact process would depend on what the beads are made of and how flexible or brittle the wire is.  If the wire is too brittle for some of these solutions, you may be able to use a different type of wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid wrapping the wire around the ring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid wrapping the wire around the ring by doing everything through the bead wall.  This would involve either drilling a second hole, so the wire goes in one hole and back out an adjacent hole, or feeding the wire into the bead and back out the same hole.  The hole might need to be enlarged if it isn't already at least twice the diameter of the wire.  The wire loop, alone, may be enough to keep the wire from pulling out of the hole.  If not, you could string a small bead on the wire before putting the end of the wire back through the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could also use a headpin, but instead of creating a loop and attaching it to the beading wire, put the end of the pin through the hole in the previous bead (may require enlarging that hole if it will also contain the beading wire).  I'll suggest ways to secure the ends of wire or pin, but you may be able to do your idea #2 inside the next-to-last ring, where it won't add space between the rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secure the wire or pin without crimping beads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loop or twist the wire around itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Form the end parallel with the wire a short distance and secure it with solder or clear glue.  Variation: whip the end to the wire with very fine wire (optionally solder the whipping).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After making the loop, push the end of the wire back into the hole in the bead wall and secure it within the wall of the bead.  Depending on the bead material, you may be able to melt the bead to the wire inside the hole (high friction even if the doesn't bond), or wick a drop of superglue into the hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure the end of the wire inside the ring wall by wedging a pin in the hole to compress the wire to the hole wall.  If the bead material is not brittle, you can press an appropriately sized pin into the hole with pliers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After getting the wire through the bead wall, put a short 90° &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; bend in the end.  Cut a small slot in the bead surface so the &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; can sit below the surface.  If needed, secure it there with a dot of glue, or heat to melt the bead around it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-10-18T19:19:54.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8017" CreationDate="2021-10-19T17:52:21.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. At one point in time all canvas was made on manual loom machines. There are paintings from that time done on canvas therefore painting canvas can be hand loomed. It can be woven as tight as you need it to be and it should unravel no differently from machine loomed fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T17:52:21.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8017" CreationDate="2021-10-20T10:13:17.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the handmade canvas was to be used only for painting, &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10642/8251&quot;&gt;rebusB's answer&lt;/a&gt; is the obvious truth.  And that can certainly be used for the original painting.  However, the question also states the intention to use the canvas in an inkjet printer.  Even if you could get the canvas to feed, the results would likely not be acceptable.  There is canvas media made for inkjet printers that you could use for those reproductions, but it needs to meet a number of criteria that would be hard to replicate by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The canvas needs to be in the range of thickness and stiffness that will work with the printer's feed mechanism.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The surface needs to be very uniform, both for proper feeding and uniform printing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fabric needs to be uniformly coated with a material that properly controls absorption of the ink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the right materials, advanced skill level, R&amp;amp;D to perfect the process, a lot of time to produce each canvas, and a significant expected failure rate, it is probably humanly possible to replicate a canvas that would work.  But success would have requirements far beyond producing a canvas to paint on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatives for the inkjet reproductions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The best results, and perhaps only practical solution, is to purchase inkjet canvas media.  This will look and behave like artist canvas and give consistent good results on an inkjet printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is another approach that probably won't meet your expectations, given the lengths you are willing to go to for authenticity, but I'll cover it for completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture will already be in digital format if you plan to print it on an inkjet.  Image processing software, like Photoshop, has an &amp;quot;embossing&amp;quot; feature that allows you to apply a &amp;quot;3D&amp;quot; texture to an image.  Canvas is a texture that is usually available.  The feature adjusts brightness to superimpose the highlights and shadows that the texture would produce.  You print on paper, and can typically adjust the apparent depth of embossing and the angle of illumination to match how you will display it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the print from an angle, the reflected light will give away that the surface is actually smooth, although you can minimize that by using matte paper.  The effect is reasonably convincing at normal viewing distance, but up close, you can see that the texture is actually part of the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveats&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pro quality inkjet printers produce their amazing results only on ideal media; the media is an integral part of the results.  The printers will apply ink to any surface you can move through the printer, but the results won't achieve the realism and accuracy if the media doesn't contribute its role in the process.  The results can even look like crap on mediocre or poor media, regardless of the capabilities of the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without specialized equipment and materials, you won't be able to manually produce media that will give you the professional-level output the printers are capable of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need to be aware of the limitation of surface reflectivity if you want to replicate painting with an inkjet printer.  The ink soaks into the media, so the surface will always look like the media surface unless you subsequently apply a protective finish coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water colors have a matte finish, so replicating them on an inkjet will work on any kind of media (but will look the most realistic on matte media).  Oil or acrylic paint dries shiny.  The only way for an inkjet print to replicate it realistically is to either print on glossy media or apply a glossy finish coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil and acrylic paint also have noticeable thickness variation that is obviously missing when printing on smooth paper or even inkjet canvas media.  Printed commercial reproductions often go the extra step of embossing the media to create the appearance of brush strokes and thick paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-10-29T23:36:56.317" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T23:36:56.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2070" CreationDate="2021-10-20T23:31:03.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's low temperature ceramic firing could it be heated in your home oven to highest possible temperature and rubbed off or at least smeared/smoothed? Heat safe gloves obviously needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9368" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-10-21T08:28:04.940" LastActivityDate="2021-10-21T08:28:04.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10635" CreationDate="2021-10-20T23:35:23.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always understood that soaking in water overnight did this. But I haven't tried it for a few years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9368" LastActivityDate="2021-10-20T23:35:23.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2070" CreationDate="2021-10-24T04:47:34.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use a kitchen blow torch, but be careful.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I recommend applying heat, then using fine wire wool to prevent scratching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11992" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-10-24T05:23:40.077" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T05:23:40.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2021-10-24T11:43:10.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with your application, so I might be off track here, but have you considered creating a hem, and sewing flexible neodymium magnetic strips into it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are much stronger than the standard flexible strip magnets.  Just as a clarifying example (not a specific recommendation):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09717HXYR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09717HXYR&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2QCK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2QCK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest this because magnets can hold material in place but if too much force is applied they will come undone without causing any damage, and can simply be re-attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can also be repositioned easily if your needs change, without necessitating puncturing the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-02-16T12:48:12.587" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T12:48:12.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-24T12:00:25.053" Score="10" ViewCount="4444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an alternative to resin to fill a series of jars with, that will harden solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My aim is to make it appear as if the jars are filled with an opaque liquid that could pass for some kind of generic produce at a distance (milk, jam, table sauce, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to put a tube in the center of each jar to create a chamber, and then fill the space between it and the side of the jar with &amp;quot;something&amp;quot; colored to make the jar seem full, so that you can take the lid off of the jar and put a model or miniature diorama inside and let it be hidden until the lid is taken off (For example, a jar of honey containing a model of a bee).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal go-to for this is epoxy resin, but I don't have the budget or ventilation required to use resin on this scale (and it's far too messy), so I'm looking for a cheaper and safer alternative, like a plaster compound or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs to be non-toxic, set solid, and to be able to be colored so that it's opaque, but does not need to be particularly durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered simply painting the inside of the jars but it just looked like a flat surface and didn't have that slightly translucent look that you would get with a liquid that you can achieve with resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2021-10-26T17:00:28.317" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T06:46:54.010" Title="Low cost alternatives to resin for creating the illusion of there being an opaque fluid in a bottle or jar" Tags="|material-selection|safety|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10679" CreationDate="2021-10-24T14:57:56.777" Score="2" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some material that I can use to fix a small table candle in. The candle will be about 10cm long with a 1cm diameter. The idea is that there will be a wooden board with holes of various shapes and a number of candles standing behind it so that a flickering light will be visible through the holes (see sketch below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could of course get small candle holders. But I vaguely remember that there used to exist some kind of material that we used for this. I think the best way to describe it is as a kind of non-sticky bubble gum: it is easy to shape with your hands, does not fall apart, and does not harden over time. So you could make a small ball, flatten it into a disc, and press the candle into it and it would stay upright. Obviously the material had to be fireproof. Unfortunately, I do not have a photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what sort of material I'm describing here? Or something else that I could use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hfTaa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hfTaa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2021-11-03T15:01:51.897" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T21:44:56.823" Title="Material to fix a small candle in" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-10-24T18:44:23.363" Score="8" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Supposedly washi tape doesn't leave residue, but what if it's in the heat or just stays on something for a long time? Will it still leave residue like all tapes overtime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11995" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T01:22:17.217" Title="Will washi tape adhesive leave residue overtime if it stays on a surface for a while?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10650" CreationDate="2021-10-24T21:47:47.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;PVA glue is available in white, yellow and clear varieties. I've had the white and yellow stuff set up (cure) in bottles and remain liquid appearance, but have not used the clear stuff to know what happens over extended time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white and yellow glues are inexpensive and water soluble and will take common food coloring to achieve various colors and hues as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of the description, if the glue sets/cures in the jar, it won't affect your desired results, as it still appears to be liquid. If it is partially filled, the top surface also appears to be liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T21:47:47.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10650" CreationDate="2021-10-25T08:07:53.050" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint that's fairly compatible with the material of the bottle can be applied evenly by pouring it into the container, swirling round and tipping out.  You may need to do this 2 or 3 times.  This should mimic milk fairly well.  PVA could be applied similarly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a clearer filling you could use coloured varnish instead, but this wouldn't really look like jam, as that's solid throughout the container so refracts light different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your inner vessel is very close to the size of your outer vessel, you won't need much filler, so epoxy wouldn't be so expensive after all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T08:07:53.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10650" CreationDate="2021-10-25T09:45:00.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the existing answers, you can also use &lt;strong&gt;acrylic paints&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are translucent paints (or (mix them with) mediums or gels), they are inexpensive, will set quite rapidly (if sufficiently exposed to air), you can mix in other materials (e.g. for an imitation of jam you can add blobs of pre-dried and somewhat darker coloured acrylics), and they are usually relatively non-toxic, especially after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fill the jars, you can first pour in some acrylic paint, then, while holding a somewhat sturdy plastic sheet the size of the inner container, pour in the rest along the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T09:45:00.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10650" CreationDate="2021-10-25T12:43:27.373" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to do this with &lt;strong&gt;sugar&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you boil a heavy sugar syrup enough it will set hard and clear, almost like glass. I accidentally filled a bowl with brown &amp;quot;glass&amp;quot; and bits of orange this way, and it was almost impossible to get out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugar is cheap and doesn't need special ventilation, but you do need to be &lt;strong&gt;very careful&lt;/strong&gt; handling hot syrup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12001" LastEditorUserId="12001" LastEditDate="2021-10-26T09:40:06.133" LastActivityDate="2021-10-26T09:40:06.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10627" CreationDate="2021-10-25T13:41:21.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Anamorphosis&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anamorphosis is a distorted projection requiring the viewer to occupy a specific vantage point, use special devices, or both to view a recognizable image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anamorphosis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anamorphosis is a distorted projection or perspective requiring the viewer to use special devices or occupy a specific vantage point (or both) to reconstitute the image. The word &amp;quot;anamorphosis&amp;quot; is derived from the Greek prefix ana‑, meaning back or again, and the word morphe, meaning shape or form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Anamorphic-Sculpture/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructables.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By extension there are meanings for each artistic representation: anamorphic cinema, anamorphic sculptures, &lt;a href=&quot;https://creativecloud.adobe.com/es/discover/article/the-art-of-anamorphic-illusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;anamorphic painting&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.perceptualart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Michael Murphy&lt;/a&gt; is one of the artist who represents his art with anamorphosis calling it &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKfpYVK_r0E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anamorphic Art Installations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2021-10-25T18:27:52.763" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T18:27:52.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10651" CreationDate="2021-10-25T15:31:30.523" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found wood works fine; just drill appropriate size holes where you want. There are essentially unlimited options in the appearance of the wood. I used oak which I sandblasted to emphasize the grain. One caution, for multiple candles, there needs to be generous separation to avoid mutual heat from melting the candles. My brother ( Professor of Design) made a similar candelabra; The first time it was used (and only time ) it was given the name &amp;quot;conflagration&amp;quot;  because of the interaction of the close  candles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T15:31:30.523" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10650" CreationDate="2021-10-25T16:18:45.693" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a firm gel using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agar&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;agar&lt;/a&gt; mixed with hot water. It's clear, colorless, nontoxic and is actually edible. It looks like Jello after it sets, but it doesn't melt at warm room temperatures. You can color it with ordinary food coloring. It's much less expensive and safer than casting resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8865" LastActivityDate="2021-10-25T16:18:45.693" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10650" CreationDate="2021-10-25T21:53:41.287" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fairly easy solution would be to use &lt;strong&gt;candle wax&lt;/strong&gt;. This can be melted and coloured then you can either fully fill the vessel or apply as a thinnish layer to the inside of the glass to create the look you want. If you did go for the thin layer around the vessel, then it should be possible to subsequently partially fill with water then apply a thickish layer on top to space fill and keep the contents in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12008" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2022-04-11T06:46:54.010" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T06:46:54.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10650" CreationDate="2021-10-26T05:35:53.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative to the agar gel in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10661/6316&quot;&gt;MTA's answer&lt;/a&gt; is a gelatin and glycerin mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The basic recipe is food safe and often used to make molds for food items.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can store it in a freezer for months (without any additives).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The basic recipe will keep fresh at room temperature for several weeks. You can add things like honey or citric acid to protect it from mold growth for a longer time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's reusable. You can simply melt the gel by heating it up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can mix it with food coloring, naturally colored liquids like honey or powders like corn starch (for a milky look).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The basic recipe&lt;/strong&gt; uses 2 parts powdered gelatin (sugarless; not the sheets), 2 parts glycerin (from a drug store or pharmacy) and 1 part water. Soak the gelatine powder with the glycerin for 5 minutes, mix in the boiling water and strain it once (most of) the gelatine is molten. &lt;strong&gt;Do not boil&lt;/strong&gt; the mixture or you destroy the gelatine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/MIj_I6mW5QQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video of the basic recipe here&lt;/a&gt; and an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructable for making moulds and prosthetics here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-10-26T05:35:53.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10587" CreationDate="2021-10-27T19:30:02.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Could it be used&amp;quot; is a different question than &amp;quot;would it be effective for the task&amp;quot;.  The question bullets a number of concerns about why it might not work, at least without potentially damaging the kiln.  I'm not familiar enough with that equipment to address what safety interlocks it might have or the potential for damage.  If those were not relevant concerns, you could use it to melt metal, but this is really the wrong tool for the job.  It would not be an effective tool to rely on for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firing ceramics requires accurate temperatures and slow temperature changes, which is what the kiln is designed to provide.  A kiln like this uses radiant heat.  It could eventually melt the metal, but it would take forever.  You not only need to raise the temperature of the metal past its melting point, you need to add substantial energy to change its state from a solid to a liquid.   If this was the only tool available, you had a one-time task, and no time constraints, this might let you do it.  But it wouldn't be practical to build a process around for repeated applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melting a pourable amount of metal requires transferring a lot of heat.  Furnaces for melting metal focus on exceeding the melt temperature as much and as fast as possible.  They do this by methods that are much more efficient at transferring energy than radiant heating, such as immersing the crucible in a flame vortex to use convection, or have it in direct contact with the heat source, or use something like induction heating to create the heat directly in the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm reminded of an earlier question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/8910/can-someone-tell-me-the-purpose-of-this-multi-tool/8924#8924&quot;&gt;Can someone tell me the purpose of this multi-tool?&lt;/a&gt;, about a wallet-sized card containing an assortment of punch-out emergency survival tools.  None of the tools on the card could compete with a purpose-made tool for a given job.  In a survival situation, you could use them if you had to, but nobody would use them routinely as their normal tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-10-27T19:30:02.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10627" CreationDate="2021-10-29T16:45:15.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect is called &lt;strong&gt;metamorphisis&lt;/strong&gt; and also has a hint of &lt;strong&gt;juxtaposition&lt;/strong&gt; if the two (or more) forms create a commentary through their relationship to each other. However it is more of a device than a whole genre unto itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception to that might be &lt;strong&gt;metamorphic paintings&lt;/strong&gt; where common objects are arranged to form another object, typically a human head, and were often  allegorical in nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T16:45:15.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10653" CreationDate="2021-10-31T01:22:17.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not everything sold as washi tape is the same.  According to an article by a washi tape seller, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.washitape.com/blogs/craft-project-ideas/what-is-washi-tape&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;What is WASHI tape?&lt;/a&gt;, washi tape from Japan is made by a few companies, possibly licensed by the developer, and has consistent, high quality.  There is also washi tape manufactured in China that has very variable quality, including big differences in adhesive characteristics.  There are brands from the US and a few other countries, but these may be manufactured in China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, while &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; washi tape can be made with paper from some different plant sources than is used in making washi paper, there is also tape based on tissue paper or other materials, like fabric, that is sold as washi tape but isn't.  There are also &amp;quot;washi&amp;quot; tapes with various coatings.  So it makes sense to limit the answer to the &amp;quot;authentic&amp;quot;, Japanese paper product with consistent characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adhesive is removable and repositionable, which typically is better at not leaving residue regardless of the adhesive substance.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://wikilivre.org/culture/what-does-washi-tape-do/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;What does washi tape do?&lt;/a&gt;, the adhesive is made from natural rubber.  It's very good at being cleanly removable without damaging the surface, but at least some brands can leave small lines of adhesive residue if it remains in place for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bottom line is that you shouldn't count on washi tape never leaving any residue unless someone reports a particular brand used on the same surface material, left in place for more than say a year, and they were still able to remove it without leaving any residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T01:22:17.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-02T23:33:18.890" Score="3" ViewCount="786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this beautiful night lamp, and it fell on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower part hit the floor, a little bit more than 1 meter deep. A part at the bottom got broken off, so it cannot stand by itself.&#xA;Original shapes are still present, though, because quite a few pieces that got broken off are large. I want to glue them back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know how to approach this, but ordinary superglue wont work. because there are still some little holes that need to be filled. the important thing is, that it holds together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best type of adhesive material to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12065" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T14:43:02.453" Title="Which material should I use to fix broken glazed ceramic lamp?" Tags="|adhesives|ceramics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10675" CreationDate="2021-11-03T06:34:54.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience I can say that this is a complicated project. You want all the pieces to stick together safely and in perfect position to avoid gaps that weren't there before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once &amp;quot;repaired&amp;quot; a broken ceramic object with hot glue, but the glue hardens too quickly. I couldn't press the piece into position to avoid gaps and once I made my way to the top of the object, the shards didn't align anymore and caused even more gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Super glue&lt;/strong&gt; is ideal to hold shards in their original position, because it can flow into gaps and it dries quickly. But it can leave milky residue on surfaces and it's too brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another very beautiful but much more complicated way to fill the gaps is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kintsugi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kintsugi&lt;/a&gt;. It's a traditional Japanese technique that uses natural lacquer and gold powder, but you can recreate the effect with modern materials like &lt;strong&gt;epoxy resin and gold mica&lt;/strong&gt;. I highly recommend watching some tutorials like &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/eO9CnS-NqO8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one by Alex&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/NqBI7RcsKAc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one by Chezlin&lt;/a&gt; and many more you can find online. Maybe you decide that highlighting the cracks with gold isn't what you want. There are also many tutorials on how to repair ceramics with epoxy glue like &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/OUlcDThfhUU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one by Lakeside Pottery&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Rg4q0g8zXi8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one by Ron Hazelton&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this technique is too complicated and you just want the pieces to stick together again, &lt;strong&gt;construction silicone&lt;/strong&gt; is an ideal long-term solution because it sticks to almost anything and stays flexible after curing. You could fill small gaps with it, but it may look ugly. It's best to glue the pieces from the inside so the silicone won't be visible. You can touch and form fresh silicone with your fingers if you wet your finger in water with lots of dish washing liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-01-12T14:43:02.453" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T14:43:02.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10651" CreationDate="2021-11-03T13:25:36.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two non-flammable solid options to make a holder/base yourself are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium (which might need different tools but is in some ways easier to work than wood).  I'd probably use two plates joined with screws, drilling appropriately-sized holes in the top one to leave pockets for the candles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plaster.  I'd make a wooden box, fill it with plaster of paris and set greased candles into it, supporting them with a jig.  Remove the greased candles once it's set and you have a holder ready to use.  The wooden box will allow joining to the front panel and protect the plaster in handling, as it can be rather brittle.  You could even use concrete, if you happened to have some spare. The wooden mould/shell could be replaced with cardboard but you might need to fix that in place before pouring the plaster.  The plaster stops the flame getting to the shell; it doesn't need to be a thick layer, just enough to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both these cases I'd still use a little molten candlewax to stick tall candles into the holes, to make them more secure against falling over if the whole thing gets knocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are non-flammable putties, but most of the ones I can track down are either prone to drying up (glazing putty), or smoke a lot even if they don't burn (Blutack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sculpting clay (real clay that comes out of the ground, not polymer or air-drying) is non-flammable and formable by hand.  Even after a little drying it's rather soft for this job, but might work if there's no danger of the holder being knocked and tipping over the candles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2021-11-04T21:44:56.823" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T21:44:56.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10681" CreationDate="2021-11-03T16:15:44.983" Score="3" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture depicts a speaker protection grille which needs to have the cloth replaced. I managed to source an apparently identical piece of fabric (a cotton/elastane mix according to the seller) but I experimented a bit and as expected I wasn't able to eliminate the folds at the corners on the back of the wooden frame. The manufacturer of the speakers apparently managed to do so and I was curious what technique is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9lsC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9lsC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12067" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-03T17:13:49.580" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T06:47:53.010" Title="How is this fabric stretched without folds?" Tags="|adhesives|fabric|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2021-11-03T17:13:09.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a guess, but I think you simply have to use a glue that has a somewhat long working time (30 - 60 minutes).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After applying the glue, attach the grille cloth as you would stretch canvas unto a frame, from one corner to the opposite, and then attach the edges rotationally (the texture of the fabric in your photo shows this torque around the corner).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Once the mesh is in place, you can adjust its position to your liking. The excess fabric can act as a guide here to spread the fabric evenly, I imagine. Afterwards simply use a cutter knife to neatly cut off the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-11-03T17:13:09.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10680" CreationDate="2021-11-04T06:47:53.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer of the original grille eliminated the folds by cutting them away. If you look very closely at the corner, you'll see that the feint lines of the fabric stop abruptly. That's where the excess was cut away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the original fabric was glued on with a liquid glue. The process usually is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply glue around the edge and wait according to product instructions until the glue gets tacky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the new fabric on a flat surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the frame on top, glued backside up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fold one long edge over the frame and stick it to the glue, but leave the corner lose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stretch the fabric on the opposite long edge and stick it to the glue, but leave the corner lose. This can be done in short sections.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat on the short edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now attach the corners: simultaneously grip the fabric on both sides of the corner and stretch it. You'll get a fold right down the center of the corner. Attach  the stretched fabric and either push the central fold neatly together (standing up) it push it flat against the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; sharp knife, scalpel or razor blade cut away the excess fabric. If the corner fold stands up, cut it away with 1 - 2 millimeters excess, then push the excess flat against the frame. If the fold is already flat, cut as if it wasn't even there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of the process can be seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/T1Ibywv7eM0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this youtube video&lt;/a&gt;. There are many more videos like this around, so if you're unsure it's best to keep watching some people do it and learn their technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T06:47:53.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-04T13:15:37.490" Score="2" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I wanted to make a custom phone stand, or a vertical stand/pocket for my laptop -- is there some kind of clay I can get that I can mold/shape and then let harden so I can use it? Something that won't be fragile after it has hardened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't need the final form to be too heat resistant. The objects will just be used to hold my phone or laptop while they charge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm hoping for something I can mold with my hands so I can get the angles and shape exactly how I need/want them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It does not matter how long it takes to harden.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is just for personal use so I don't need it to be pretty when it is done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My goal is to spend less than 20 dollars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't need it to fold or to be able to be disassembled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am ultimately going to make two stands:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One stand for my phone with a hole near the base for my magnetic USB charging cable so that when I put my phone down it connects and starts charging but disconnects when I remove the phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One vertical one for my Dell laptop. Something like the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKCfZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKCfZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brydge.com/products/macbook-vertical-dock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10605" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T09:41:43.977" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T09:50:24.773" Title="Is there a kind of clay or similar material I can easily mold to use as a stand/holder for electronic equipment?" Tags="|material-selection|clay|heat-resistant|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2021-11-04T18:09:57.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the most available materials are cardboard and paper. Cardboard is easy to cut into shapes like a laptop stand. If you want maximum stability, cut cross-sections of the stand out of many sheets of cardboard and glue all the sheets together to make a solid stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also shred the cardboard or paper and mix it with 50/50 water and white glue to make paper maché that can be sculpted. The paper maché shrinks when it dries, but it gets incredibly solid while still being lightweight. A solid object made from paper maché can take a week or longer to fully dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method often used is roughly shaping the object with something like chicken wire or a similar wire mesh and then covering this &amp;quot;skeleton&amp;quot; with several layers of paper and glue. It's very practical, dries faster than solid paper maché and doesn't shrink. For it to be able to hold up a laptop you'll need a strong skeleton, though. Since the paper is just a thin skin, it crumbles under pressure unless it's well supported by the skeleton. The finished object can be painted and varnished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above methods have the advantage that you can add weights like stones or metal scrap to the bottom of the stand to make it more stable. If the stand is too light weight, it might fall over at the slightest nudge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-11-04T18:09:57.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10693" CreationDate="2021-11-05T20:54:54.860" Score="4" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add patches of material to a dress (95% cotton, 5% elastane), however I don't own a sewing machine and it would be a lot of work to sew by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially I just want to add shapes to the dress by adding fabric of another colour- these patches would be approximately the size of a hand.&#xA;After some research, it seems there is temporary fabric glue, which could be a solution. It would be a bonus if I could take the patches off again afterwards! But I am concerned that the temporary glue might not hold on for an evening of moving around in the dress?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option seems to be 'fusible bonding web'. I have no experience with this; would this be a better option than glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also not sure if glue/bonding web would stiffen the material, so that the dress may not sit and fall well. Could this be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks for any advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12084" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T21:21:13.103" Title="How can I attach fabric detailing to a dress?" Tags="|adhesives|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2021-11-06T06:08:32.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are endless materials you could potentially use.  I'll assume you want to make both stands out of the same material (correct me if I'm wrong).  The $20 limit eliminates a few moldable materials.  There are a number of different basic approaches you can use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want a &lt;strong&gt;sleek design with thin walls&lt;/strong&gt;, like the laptop stand in your link, that won't be practical with dirt-cheap materials and simple, handmade construction.  But you could actually come close at a low cost if you can do some planning and design in advance, and some iterative building.  You could basically replicate the laptop stand from off-the-shelf materials like plastic pipe and sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you warm PVC pipe, you can shape it.  You can also form sheets into curves and tubes with heat.  Small sheets of acrylic, ABS, or polystyrene are inexpensive and easy to work with, and you can assemble the pieces by solvent welding.  You can also get inexpensive sheets sold as diffusers for ceiling light fixtures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can live with square corners, you could make something similar from thin wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Staying for a moment with stock materials that you cut and assemble, Elmy's suggestion of &lt;strong&gt;cardboard&lt;/strong&gt; is a good one that would work for both stands.  People make strong furniture out of corrugated cardboard, and I've seen a cardboard bridge that supported a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The laptop stand is very doable in cardboard, a number of different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can create a skeleton from a single layer of corrugated cardboard and cover that with paper mache or paper mache clay for additional strength and shaping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use several layers of corrugated cardboard plus some support pieces for rigidity (and cover that to enhance its appearance).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create it from cross-section slices with corrugated cardboard so the whole thing is a solid block in the shape you want (you could probably stand on that).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want just square corners, you can replicate the curved ends with sections of cardboard tubes (nest and glue several layers).  An alternate method is to use corrugated cardboard and slice between the corrugations on the outside of the curve.  It will then bend easily into a curve, and you can wrap and glue the outside with a sheet of kraft paper (making it curved corrugated cardboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to mold the whole thing by hand with a clay material, there are plenty of air dry clays.  You can buy them ready-made, but they're easy and inexpensive to make yourself, and those are just as good (or better if you experiment a little to optimize it to your requirements and preferences).  A good place to start is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ultimatepapermache.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimate Paper Mache&lt;/a&gt; (a variety of very good air dry clay recipes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go this route, you need some clearance so your electronics slide in and out easily, and most of these clays shrink a little when they dry.  They also tend to crack if you create thick layers (although that's easily fixable and doesn't affect the strength).  You can make the stand entirely from clay if you make it in relatively thin layers and allow each layer to dry before adding the next.  But it's usually faster and easier to create some form of skeleton in the basic shape and cover that with one or two layers of clay or a layer of paper mache and a layer of clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to preserve the equipment openings the entire time that at least the innermost layer of clay is drying, so you probably won't want to tie up your actual equipment as a placeholder.  Pad your gadget all around with a layer of chipboard, like from a cereal box, and measure that.  Then there are a few different approaches you can use for the equipment hole in the stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replicate the shape and thickness with layers of corrugated cardboard and chipboard glued together to make a dummy, and cover that tightly with plastic wrap.  Hold the dummy in position with a makeshift fixture and form the clay around it.  After the clay is fully dry, remove the dummy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a sleeve for the gadget out of corrugated cardboard or other suitable material (chipboard will warp from the clay's moisture), and incorporate that sleeve as part of the stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to air dry clays, there are cement products, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0877B827X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SculptCrete&lt;/a&gt; that you can mold like clay.  These cure faster than the air dry clays and don't shrink or crack.  They will give the stand more weight.  For the same thickness, the air dry clays are probably stronger (less brittle, able to handle tension stress), but I've never tested it.  With SculptCrete and similar products, you can create thinner walls, that won't break when you handle them, than with normal cement, but I wouldn't skimp on wall thickness.  Putting equipment in and out can create leverage that would stress the walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is an alternative to clay that involves shaping a wet material, which would probably work for this application.  You need some form of basic skeleton that also serves to hold the dummy or sleeve in position.  Use &lt;strong&gt;fabric&lt;/strong&gt; (old towels work well), or heavy-duty paper shop towels.  Saturate them with cement or Plaster of Paris. Wrap this around the dummy and drape it over the skeleton.  When it hardens, you have your stand.  One thickness of cloth towel soaked in cement would be plenty.  You might want two layers of paper shop towels.  This will work better with an integral sleeve to protect your equipment because cement can be abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casting&lt;/strong&gt; your stand is another approach that can be done without a lot of precise planning.  Position the dummy or sleeve.  Create a simple mold around it for the outside shape (can be done in layers to simplify complex shapes, and you can use fast mold construction like gluing cardboard forms and coating it in Vaseline).  Pour the casting material between them.  Just don't make the walls too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good materials for casting would be cement like CementAll, HydroCal (an enhanced Plaster of Paris that's stronger and less brittle), or Plaster of Paris made with a little PVA glue (much stronger and less brittle).  To protect the equipment from scratches, mold in a protective sleeve.  An alternative is to sand the equipment cavity smooth, then apply a layer of paint or PVA glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T18:09:24.440" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T18:09:24.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10692" CreationDate="2021-11-06T11:47:40.090" Score="4" ViewCount="3206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make a floor mat where the base is wood and the top are pebble stones. The bonding must be strong and permanent as it needs to withstand the force of people walking in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What glue or other material is used for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12088" LastEditorUserId="1120" LastEditDate="2021-11-08T14:52:37.997" LastActivityDate="2021-11-08T14:52:37.997" Title="What can I use to glue pebble stones to wood?" Tags="|adhesives|wood|stones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2021-11-06T12:52:15.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing your examples, I've got another idea. There is an air-dry clay called &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_porcelain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cold porcelain&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; because the finished material looks somewhat like porcelain but it doesn't have to be fired in a kiln. It's very hard and can withstand a lot of force (if it's thick enough). Some recipes are rock solid, others are slightly bendable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An honest warning: every time I tried to create cold porcelain, I failed. But there seem to be many people out there who love this stuff and craft lovely things with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some links with recipes and instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Cold-Porcelain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WikiHow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.clay-it-now.com/coldporcelainrecipe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clay-it-now&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/BtBmz6ltHfg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube: comparison of 3 different air-dry clays&lt;/a&gt; - She's very honest about failing the cold porcelain recipe the first time, but in comparison to the other clays it yields the best result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/vWl6ilMZ2oA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube: recipe for extremely flexible cold porcelain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/aqPqbkT_KWI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube: recipe for cold porcelain that doesn't shrink&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To save you some time, here are my personal experiences with failed attempts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to use &lt;strong&gt;corn starch&lt;/strong&gt;, not potato starch or tapioca starch or rice starch or any other kind of starch. It must be corn starch. I don't understand the chemistry behind it, but any other kind of starch will turn into a rubber ball instead of a clay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with small batches. Instead of a cup of corn starch, start with 1 - 2 table spoons. That way you don't waste a ton of materials when it doesn't work out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your glue is very thick (I used wood glue instead of crafting glue), dilute it with water. Otherwise the clay will be too dry. On the other hand, dry clay doesn't shrink as much as very soft clay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try different methods. If the microwave method doesn't work for you, try the stovetop method or vice versa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start kneading the dough as soon as possible. I wear a vinyl glove over a knit or leather glove to protect my hand from the heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep kneading for at least 10 minutes, even if the stuff sticks to everything and seems impossible to knead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not add more oil or lotion to the mix if it's too sticky. Add starch instead. I once added so much oil that the clay left oily stains everywhere and was disgusting to touch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold porcelain is water soluble. You need to coat the finished object with a protective layer like varnish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T09:50:24.773" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T09:50:24.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10533" CreationDate="2021-11-06T14:34:00.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paint you use before spraying requires you to pre-filter the paint with a thin cloth and your paint must be mixed with water.  Increase the spray evenly and the spray area must be airless.  or closed area  And should clean the airbrush thoroughly first by cleaning or other until confident before spraying paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12089" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T14:34:00.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10687" CreationDate="2021-11-06T16:15:15.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A project often seen on video resources is similar to your objective. One places objects on a flat surface, usually surrounded by a tray structure. The objects are then immersed in an epoxy casting liquid, which cures in a matter of hours or days. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfOE9nvH2Rs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Table tops&lt;/a&gt; are a common project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, having the surface covered with the casting material would result in disfiguring scratches. One could, however, ensure the stones are as tightly packed as possible and pour the liquid just short of the surface of the assembly. Additionally, colorant can be added to the casting liquid to &amp;quot;accept&amp;quot; any scratches that would result from use as a floor mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd consider to add a sand or smaller pebble material between the stones to provide additional traction. The smaller material may become sacrificial in use, but could easily be refreshed as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If liquid casting is not your selection, conventional epoxies would also work. Note that long duration cure time epoxies are going to be stronger than the often-advertised five-minute cure epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T16:15:15.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10685" CreationDate="2021-11-06T18:31:10.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, the simplest and probably best solution is to sew the patches on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used different types of fabric glue in the past and all of them were very disappointing. They left ugly spots on the fabric (as if you had spilled sauce on your clothing). None of them held the fabric together after the first wash, but not all of them could be washed out, so the ugly stains remained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fusing or fusable interfacing works better to combine 2 pieces of fabric, but fusing &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; makes the fabric stiffer and takes away any stretch. In some areas you want that effect, like in shirt collars, but in other areas this would look and feel very odd. The advantage is that fusing can be peeled off again. But since it fuses with fabric by melting glue, it might also leave stains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sewing patches on clothing for a short while is dead simple. Please don't think you have to stitch as fine and evenly as a machine. We're all humans and no machines, we don't have to be perfect. A stitch length of about 5 mm or 1/4 inch is sufficient to securely sew fabric. If the patch is only supposed to stay on for a short while (like for a costume you only want to wear once), you can go with 1 cm / 3/8 inch stitch length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't even need to tie any knots in the thread. Just start with a really tiny stitch (about 1mm long) and then stitch a second time over the first one. That's enough to secure your thread in the fabric. If you're afraid the end might slip out, stitch a third time over the same stitch. Do the same if you run out of thread and you never need to tie tiny knots in your thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't own a sewing machine, but hand sewing is not appealing to you, you might find a friend, family member or neighbor with a sewing machine you can borrow. There are also &amp;quot;makers spaces&amp;quot; where you can use machines and tools for your projects (usually for a monthly payment). A local repair café is another solution, if they have a sewing machine. Some sewing machine shops might lend out machines or let you use it on-site for an hourly fee. And lastly there are different social media portals like facebook groups or local neighborhood networks where you might ask strangers in your local area if they would lend you their sewing machine. It's a great opportunity to get to know new people in these crazy times and they might also give you some advice (like how to sew an elastic seam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-11-06T21:21:13.103" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T21:21:13.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10687" CreationDate="2021-11-06T22:10:39.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resin method suggested by fred_dot_u is probably the most secure approach.  A less expensive variation is to press the stones into a bed of mortar or cement.  The stones will be very secure if more than half the thickness is embedded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want the appearance to be more like a pattern of loose stones than a bed with stone tops showing through, there's another approach that will work.  You can glue the individual stones to the wood with an appropriate adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wash and thoroughly dry the stones so their surface is clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint the wood a suitable background color because spots are likely to be visible between the stones.  Black or a dark color is generally better because it is less visible and total coverage isn't needed.  Use a thin paint that soaks into the wood rather than a thick layer that can peel off.  Ideally, you want some wood texture and porosity to bond to.  The wood won't be very visible, so more of a tint than a paint shell will be fine.  Stain would also work as long as it doesn't leave an oily surface and is totally dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gluing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either do this freehand as you go, or lay out the stones to position them where you want them, then one-by-one, remove a stone, put down a good blob of adhesive, and press the stone into it, or put a good blob on the back of the stone and press it into place.  You want enough adhesive to cover a good area on the back of the stone, and enough thickness so the stone is well supported and won't want to roll if weight is put on an edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear silicone caulk (or a color matched to the painted wood; black is readily available), is a good adhesive for this.  The clear or color-matched silicone won't be very visible.  Silicone will adhere well to both surfaces and can flex if needed when you step on the stones so it doesn't break or come off (which will also be comfortable to walk on).  You can also use construction adhesive (typically comes in a caulking tube; polyurethane-based is good for this).  Just paint the wood to match the color of the adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method described above assumes the stones are big enough to be glued individually.  If by &amp;quot;pebble stones&amp;quot; you mean something like pea gravel size, you can use a &amp;quot;bulk&amp;quot; variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't need to paint the wood.  Spread a layer of the silicone caulk roughly half the thickness of a typical stone (construction adhesive won't be practical for this).  You might want to temporarily place a frame around the mat to keep stones and silicone from being squeezed off the edges (although you could cut away excess later if you don't).  To make the frame non-stick for the silicone, wax it or line it with strips of HDPE (you can cut these from milk jugs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spread a single layer of the clean, dry pebbles over the surface and press them into the silicone.  Put another piece of wood over the whole mat and stand on it to press the pebbles into the silicone, which will make a more uniform level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T17:31:46.060" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T17:31:46.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-07T21:44:41.913" Score="5" ViewCount="1479" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recommended shelf life for Plaster of Paris varies from 3 months to a year.  I have some old stock that has been stored well-sealed, but contains a lot of clumps.  The clumps can be easily crushed into powder with slight squeezing with your fingers.  The powder still hardens when mixed with water, but I assume it won't have the same strength as fresh plaster since some percentage of it has already rehydrated to some degree.  There are a number of options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toss it and buy fresh plaster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sift it.  Use what is still powder and toss the clumps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crush the clumps, sift to ensure a fine powder, and use it all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-calcine it in an oven (with crushing and sifting).  This will return it to &amp;quot;fresh&amp;quot; Plaster of Paris (people recycle old castings this way).  However, &amp;quot;casting plaster&amp;quot; typically has various additives.  If those are affected by the heat, the resulting plaster may be more brittle or suffer from other shortcomings of &amp;quot;pure&amp;quot; PoP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After sifting; crushing and sifting; or calcining, crushing, and sifting; mix it as filler with fresh plaster.  Any shortcomings will degrade the fresh plaster a little, but there should be a reasonable mixing ratio where any degradation wouldn't be noticeable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using old or recycled plaster for cruder requirements, like making a support shell, is not a problem.  As long as it hardens and doesn't break it's fine.  Using it for fine castings is more demanding.  I'm hoping for advice from people who routinely work with plaster who have tried some of these techniques.  How necessary are they (how much, and what kinds of, degradation do you notice using old plaster in this condition), and do these techniques make a noticeable improvement in performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-01-15T10:00:50.070" Title="Advice on using old plaster" Tags="|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2021-11-08T16:09:22.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plaster of Paris is gypsum. It hardens by absorbing water to form a hydrate. Once that happens, crushing etc. has no effect. If you were able to seal it exceptionally well (not in a cardboard box), it should be good. A couple of websites say it can be dehydrated by heating above 350° F. That should restore original properties (by dehydrating it ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-16T09:57:21.107" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T09:57:21.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2021-11-11T10:12:41.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is to use &lt;code&gt;Sugru&lt;/code&gt; which is a mouldable glue and heat resistant to 180C (356F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From wikipedia: Sugru (/ˈsuːɡruː/), also known as Formerol, is a patented multi-purpose, non-slumping brand of silicone rubber that resembles modelling clay. It is available in several colours and upon exposure to air, cures to a rubber-like texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=sugru&amp;amp;ref=nb_sb_noss_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=sugru&amp;amp;ref=nb_sb_noss_1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a little expensive but very versatile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12008" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T10:12:41.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-13T15:12:16.177" Score="4" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make simplistic models of atomic structures using spheres (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molecular_model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;overview&lt;/a&gt;). Each model consists of maximum 10 spheres that have the same diameter. Normally I use ping pong balls or balls made from styrofoam as they are easily available and have almost no weight. Here is a rendered sphere arrangement as an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vp2mq.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/227140604_Shapes_of_Delaunay_Simplexes_and_Structural_Analysis_of_Hard_Sphere_Packings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Requirements&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to create sphere structures that can easily be constructed and modified. After construction the spheres should stay in their positions but it should also be possible to easily change the sphere positions. It should be possible to attach spheres in any orientation and not only at predefined positions. As spheres should allow easy handling with your hands and be visible for demonstration their optimal diameter is in the range of 3 to 6cm. The shape shall be spheres, no deformed or bevelled variants.&#xA;Spheres must be touching, therefore I cannot use spoke models that are sold as molecule construction kits, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2mvc.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/sg-en/listing/254605960/vintage-molecule-model-building-organic?show_sold_out_detail=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I easily attach and detach the spheres? Are magnetic balls suitable for my purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible methods&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;keeping together with your own hands:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the easiest way but your hands cannot hold not more than 5 spheres in defined positions. Permanent fixation is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;gluing spheres:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process is not reversible and it takes long time until the glue hardens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;spheres fully consisting of magnetic material:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tested them. Will they work? They attract each other and might allow only limited configurations. For demonstration spheres with at least 3cm diameter are needed. Sphere arrangements might be not stable under their own weight. They are costly and before I buy them I would know if the spheres arrest in any position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;partially magnetic spheres:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are sold under the brand &lt;a href=&quot;https://snatoms.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Snatoms&lt;/a&gt;. They can easily and reversibly be connected. However, they are not suitable as they are bevelled and allow connection only at defined positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjiTH.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also interested in digital models and looking for a program that allows easy creation of touching spheres. See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/81194/77682&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12117" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-13T15:46:19.827" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T10:12:43.757" Title="Make sphere models" Tags="|material-selection|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10700" CreationDate="2021-11-13T16:08:43.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Velcro-covered spheres&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since children's games making use of Velcro balls can be found in many toy stores, a cheap option would be to start with buying a few of these balls (&lt;a href=&quot;https://contents.mediadecathlon.com/p1614781/k$fc7ce78a77b5b9129cb31e3a177d2721/velcro-target-balls.jpg?&amp;amp;f=1024x1024&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;e.g.&lt;/a&gt;), find some additional self-adhesive Velcro straps or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hafele.si/prod-live/static/WFS/Haefele-HAD-Site/-/Haefele/en_SI/images/default/velcro-tape-adhesive-tape_007.81.077_x/00794194_0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tape&lt;/a&gt;, and attach the side with the opposite functionality (hook or loop) to the balls. This will allow for a lot of configurational freedom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another option in the same vein, which will give you a little more leeway in the visual appearance of the balls, is to attach both sides of the tape, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://img.joomcdn.net/a22bd15310ef684a214ca19b18e8b7e92ce94cfc_original.jpeg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velcro pads&lt;/a&gt;, to any kind of sphere you want.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is especially preferable if you want the spheres to be of a harder/rigid rather than soft material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There actually exists another type of toy that you wouldn't have to customize, called '&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bunchems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bunchems!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;'. They seem to work on a larger scale version of the hook-and-loop principle, and won't require additional tinkering (don't let any children play with them, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJJIhWiKdg0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;though&lt;/a&gt; [links to a video, but you only have to see the cover to get the idea] :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-11-13T16:08:43.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10700" CreationDate="2021-11-14T04:41:37.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toothpicks and Styrofoam Spheres.  Use the toothpicks to both symbolize the bonds and hold the spheres in appropriate alignment with each other.  Since you want the spheres to touch, use slightly larger styrofoam spheres so that a half a toothpick can be hidden inside each conjoined spheres.  (...or break your toothpicks in half).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2021-11-14T04:41:37.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10700" CreationDate="2021-11-14T18:57:46.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also 3D print spheres in different colors (representing different atoms) with regular cutouts that serve as sockets for connetors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example is this honeycomb sphere:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pSmhE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pSmhE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you print fitting hexagonal collums, you can connect several spheres. Technically it won't allow &lt;em&gt;any orientation&lt;/em&gt;, but I think it's close enough to be practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One aspect you need to keep in mind is the structural integrity of different 3D printing technologies. Cheap filament extrusion prints are very instable along the planes of the print. If you print the connectors standing straight up like collums, they are very likely to snap. You should print them in a slanting position to give them more stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin prints, on the other hand, are much more stable, but also more expensive. It might even be worth buying hexagonal wood dowels from a home construction store and adjusting the size of the 3D printed spheres to the size of the dowels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T10:12:43.757" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T10:12:43.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10707" CreationDate="2021-11-14T21:03:38.280" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I extend the length of a plaid, wool maxi skirt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was lighter material, I can simply sew on a lace trim, but this is winter wool maxi skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wish to extend an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WvApP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WvApP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7cg9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7cg9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T16:13:51.610" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T07:53:18.053" Title="How do I extend the length of a Plaid Wool Maxi Skirt" Tags="|clothing|technique-selection|wool|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10706" CreationDate="2021-11-14T23:15:29.710" Score="4" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a commission due this Christmas, it has to be on a 40 x 30 canvas, and the whole drawing has to be in charcoal, so I want to know if it'd be the same thing as if I was drawing on paper. Or should I change to paper instead of a canvas? What would work best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T00:17:39.207" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T03:38:39.463" Title="Pros and cons of using charcoal on a canvas" Tags="|material-selection|charcoal|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10705" CreationDate="2021-11-15T00:16:56.627" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends on what you want to draw, and in what style.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working with charcoal on canvas will really emphasize the texture of the canvas, creating a rough impression. It will be hard to draw details - in relation to the size, that is: you can still draw details but they'll have to be larger or implied rather than drawn carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coincidentally I've recently visited an Ilya Repin exhibition, and he made a few charcoal drawings on canvas as well (I'm not sure if they were preparatory sketches).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Below is a detail of approximately 40 x 71 cm (more than twice the size of your canvas) from one of those works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLtmw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XLtmw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detail of Ilya Repin's Portrait of Vera Pushkareva, made with charcoal on canvas in 1899&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Ilya Repin | Portrait of Vera Pushkareva (detail) | charcoal on canvas | 1899.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The complete work can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/183298784@N08/51680373948/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Mind that facial features and other details are drawn with pencil.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, a lot of the texture pushes through, and creates a noise, bringing to mind high ISO photography, or old television imagery, at times even glitches (where the canvas has a repeating pattern, which will be more obvious on linen).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For sketches it works quite well since it's easier to create an impression, as a higher amount of noise tends to be easier to be interpreted visually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this is naturally dependent on the roughness of the canvas, as you will be able to find canvases with a very fine weave, but never without texture (and will likely cost you more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, if you've set your mind to working on canvas but don't want to sacrifice detail, is to ground the canvas with an acrylic base and wipe it level with the bumps in the texture. It's not easy to get it perfectly smooth, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other considerations:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I assume a drawing on paper would be framed, so both objects would be around the same size, with fixed dimensions. Unless you're framing a drawing on canvas, it would be more receptive to dirt and damage. But it would also be more of a statement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T00:49:20.257" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T00:49:20.257" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10704" CreationDate="2021-11-15T12:01:36.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Color Consideration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory it would be ideal to have the same fabric with the same pattern, but this looks like a circle skirt. Even if you got a piece of the same fabric, you wouldn't be able to match the pattern at the bottom without cutting many, &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; small pieces and sewing them together again. The resulting extension would most likely look odd. That leaves only a deliberate misalignment of the patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better idea is to buy a woolen fabric in one of the darker colors seen in the stripes. That repetition of colors results in a very harmonic look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could opt for black or a similar neutral color. In that case, it's a good idea to add that color in several places - for example at the waist band and at the bottom of the skirt - to harmonize the look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful when manipulating the waist band or you'll have to reset the zipper. Another idea to add a splash of color is to unpick the outer seam of the waist band and add &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piping_(sewing)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;piping&lt;/a&gt; between the skirt and the waist band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Add a Ruffle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, this is the easiest and most promising solution. It also requires the least knowledge about sewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should find a fabric that has the same or less weight than the wool of the skirt. Very heavy fabrics will be harder to sew and won't look as pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut rectangular strips of fabric for the ruffle. The total length is the circumference of the lower hem multiplied by 3 (for a thick ruffle) or by 2.5 (for a softer, wavy ruffle). The width of each strip of fabric should be 2 inches + 2 times 1/4 to 1/2 inch seam allowance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sew all the strips together along the short edges to make a very long band.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fold the band in half lengthwise (long sides together) and iron / press it. Don't skip this step, it will make your work much easier and look more professional.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and the longest stitch length. Use a very sturdy (polyester) yarn. With the fabric folded in half, stitch one row at the intended seam and a second row halfway between the first row and the raw edge of the fabric. These are your gathering threads. In theory one gathering thread would suffice, but having 2 of them makes the work easier and usually looks better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tie the gathering threads together on one side and gently pull them on the other side. The fabric will gather up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sew the gathered ruffle onto the lower hem of the skirt. I assume you know how to do that and finish the raw edge (it would be too much to describe every single step here). If not, I recommend watching video tutorials.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of this method is that you can calculate the material requirements very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Add Straight Extensions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more complicated because you actually have to cut ring shapes for the fabric to lay straight in the finished skirt. You also have to deal with the lining of the skirt, so I'll assume more sewing experience than for the ruffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the skirt flat on a large piece of pattern paper or packaging paper. Trace the curve of the lower hem. Add seam allowance on the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the curve (towards the center of the circle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trace a bigger curve (by 1 inch + 1 seam allowance) on the &lt;em&gt;outside&lt;/em&gt; of the first curve on the paper. Cut the curve template.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut enough strips of fabric using the curve template from wool fabric and lining fabric to reach the circumference of the skirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sew all the wool strips together and all the lining strips together along their short edges. Divide each strip into 4 equal parts and mark the quarters with an erasable mark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide the skirt into 4 equal parts and draw an erasable mark on the lining and outside of the skirt near the bottom hem to mark the quarters. This will help you with re-assembling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unpick the entire bottom hem of the skirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sew the extension lining to the original lining, right sides together. Sew the extension wool to the original wool, rights sides together. Try to stitch right in the crease where the fabric was originally folded. Use the marks you drew earlier to make sure the fabric is evenly distributed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press all the seams. It's very important to do that step now, before you re-assemble the skirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the lining of the skirt through the center of the waist band and pull the outer fabric up around the waist band. Your entire skirt is now right sides together. Align the extension lining to the extension wool using the marks drawn earlier, then sew them together, but leave a big enough opening to turn the skirt again. Do that by pulling the waist band through the opening and either hand-sew or top-stitch the opening shut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget to give all seams a final press.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method may sound like it requires less material, but that's deceiving. You'll probably need as much fabric as for the ruffle because you have to cut curves out of rectangular fabric. You'll also have a lot of cut-off that's too small to be useful for anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extend the waist band&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just listed for completeness, &lt;strong&gt;it won't reach your goal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is by far the most complicated solution, because you'll have to move or extend the zipper. You need to replace the original waist band, because the fabric is more worn on the inside. Even if you unpick the existing waist band and use all existing fabric on the outside, you'll always be able to see where it was creased originally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to that the fact that your hips won't be magically slimmer and there won't be more fabric at the zipper. If you extended the waist band, the skirt would still sit at the same position on your hips. You'd have more fabric extending &lt;strong&gt;up from your waist&lt;/strong&gt;, but the skirt wouldn't be longer at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T14:21:36.357" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T14:21:36.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10710" CreationDate="2021-11-15T16:46:55.717" Score="4" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a door that swings open quite fast, and we need a sort of decorative strip that can go on the wall to prevent the door handle from banging into it. The problem is that we need to be able to paint over the material used, so it will look like the rest of the wall. I'm not sure if this is even possible, as I can't seem to find anything about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12126" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T17:10:56.833" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T20:49:52.447" Title="What sort of wall protectors can you paint?" Tags="|material-selection|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10708" CreationDate="2021-11-15T18:08:56.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about &lt;strong&gt;a strip of wood veneer&lt;/strong&gt;? It's easy to paint and to adhere to the wall. It's also cheap, and you might even be able to get leftovers from your local hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extra resilience you can opt for a layer of rubber or foam sandwiched between the strip and the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T18:08:56.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10708" CreationDate="2021-11-15T20:05:46.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have cement walls and you're trying to protect the doorknob, I'd look at EVA foam, which you could paint to match the wall (although it wouldn't be invisible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you are trying to protect is the wall (drywall), there are various resilient wall protectors you can buy or make, but I've yet to find a really satisfactory solution via putting something on the wall.  I've even seen a big rubber doorknob catcher &amp;quot;cup&amp;quot; get punched into the wall, making a huge hole when it got slammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that are relatively effective for protecting drywall can be hard to hide. In a commercial or industrial setting, a large, heavy-duty metal plate is sometimes used, but those could damage a non-industrial doorknob.  A metal plate will spread the force over a large area and would probably be the thinnest material; a large square of high-pressure laminate might also work.  You can paint either of those, but any finish is likely to chip off when beat on by a doorknob.  With high-pressure laminate, you might find a laminate sample that would blend in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution I've found is to use hinge-mounted stops.  You pull out a hinge pin and reinsert it through a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the hinge, you may be able to use something like this that works entirely inside the hinge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jO29u.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jO29u.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image courtesy Lowes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that type isn't compatible with your hinge, this type will normally work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WaAQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WaAQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image courtesy Lowes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the door gets serious abuse, this style can eventually leave a dent in the wood it presses against.  The type with a large rectangular pad (as shown), is less likely to leave a dent than the type with a round bumper on each side.  You can also reduce the chance of getting a dent if you put a stopper on several hinges so the stress on each one is reduced (just adjust them to make contact at the same time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, a doorstop that mounts on the baseboard molding and catches the bottom of the door will work better than something wall-mounted to catch the doorknob, and will be less noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the hinge-mounted or baseboard-mounted doorstops are available in a variety of finishes to blend in.  So you generally don't need to paint them, although you could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-11-15T20:49:52.447" LastActivityDate="2021-11-15T20:49:52.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10705" CreationDate="2021-11-17T03:38:39.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've created numerous paintings with rough sketch on the first layer of canvas. I would imagine it would depend on the roughness of the canvas. I have not personally tried to do a final piece on a piece of canvas with just pencil or charcoal. Only light outlines. Prime canvas would be even more difficult to achieve because it gives a waxy layer on top of the canvas. The pencil would have a hard time sticking to the canvas without wiping it away. I don't think it is impossible. Like Joachim mentioned, it would be have grain and noise element to it as well, which would be a learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: different, broad strokes not as much detail&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Cons: Not for beginners, canvas texture learning curve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2021-11-17T03:38:39.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10713" CreationDate="2021-11-17T20:39:16.177" Score="4" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;During life drawing sessions, I would like to do fast watercolors so I need a way to quickly dry my glazes. Since there are other people, I would like it to be quiet as well as fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a heat gun work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-18T15:32:41.457" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T15:32:41.457" Title="Is it okay to use a heat gun to quickly dry watercolors?" Tags="|painting|watercolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2021-11-18T14:49:49.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;h3&gt;I don't think there is anything to worry about.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;em&gt;fixer1234&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Chris H&lt;/em&gt; point out in the comments, be sure to keep a &lt;strong&gt;low heat&lt;/strong&gt; setting. Like UV light and humidity, heat (&lt;strong&gt;especially when concentrated and focused&lt;/strong&gt;) does have a negative impact on the pigments and paper, but as long as you don't go far above what can conceivably be environmental temperatures, you have nothing to worry about. After all, the history of watercolour and its preservation shows that working temperatures and normal environmental conditions don't significantly impact the longevity of artworks in that medium - they were developed to be used in these conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; drying your glazes with a heat gun &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; noticeably detrimental, if that would help you enjoy your time spent painting more, and develop your skills quicker, it could easily outweigh the damage done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do remember that depending on the amount of water you use the &lt;strong&gt;air flow&lt;/strong&gt; of a dryer or heat gun can also influence the lines of your brushstrokes, especially those made with pigments with higher granulation (i.e. less staining ones, see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/7627/6388&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;In short:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a low temperature setting;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a low air flow setting;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moving the gun/dryer around in an even pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as &lt;strong&gt;noise&lt;/strong&gt; is concerned: both heat guns and hair dryers seem to produce sound of around 70 dB(A) and up, but I think it's easier to come by quieter heat guns, although it's hard to find any specs on sound levels online. Lower temps and air flows will of course produce less noise.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A quieter but less practical alternative would be a portable heater. Some of these are lightweight enough to be able to be picked up and aimed at your drawing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You mention life drawing sessions, so I assume there is heating in the space: would it be possible to make use of those heat sources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-18T15:31:33.663" LastActivityDate="2021-11-18T15:31:33.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2021-11-19T09:23:25.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This type of string art was actually fairly popular about 50 years ago, and there were many classes and patterns available.The idea, though, was that you might start with simple practice  patterns, but as you become more experienced, you would create your own patterns; thereby graduating from &amp;quot;crafter&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;artist&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days, you can find many patterns online e.g. this type of  thing: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.guidepatterns.com/35-string-art-patterns.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.guidepatterns.com/35-string-art-patterns.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not find that exact pattern online, and in fact you probably won't; as the pattern would usually have even numbers of lines around each nail, as the pattern forms by wrapping around each nail. It is actually possible to make that pattern, but not much fun, fairly mechanical, and with no surprises. One of the things to keep in mind about that particular pattern is that making it in reality would require some knotting and or sewing together of the lines as well, not just wrapping around the pegs/nails. Otherwise it will tend to clump instead of staying nice and symmetrical.  Also, as mentioned in the comments below, you can't do it with a single string, unless you &amp;quot;double-up&amp;quot; the central string, hiding the first pass under the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to learn the craft/art, you should start with simple patterns, like this one below, (specially done in different colours here to make it easier to follow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mVgct.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, you plan out your pattern on paper, to figure out where to put the nails in the board. You then place the nails, tie the end of the string to your starting point, and start stretching the string from nail to nail, wrapping around the outside and continuing to the next nail in the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to some of the answers elswhere, you generally use only one string, unless you want different colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9490" LastEditorUserId="9490" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T00:26:08.880" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T00:26:08.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3853" CreationDate="2021-11-19T12:08:41.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Demigod's answer describes the pattern in the picture.  There are 36 pins (10° increments around the circle), and each pin is connected to the diagonally opposite pin plus the pin adjacent to that on each side of it.  That is the entire pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As people have pointed out, three connections on each pin is a complication, but there are several ways to do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use multiple strings and tie the odd strings to the pins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a template containing holes for the pins.  Run the string through the holes, hiding some connections behind the template.  Insert the pins in the holes after the pattern is completed.  (Chris Johns' solution.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also do it with a single thread by temporarily using the circumference.  For example, the single string to the opposite side: after getting to the opposite side, connect to the next pin on the circumference, then make the connection to the pin opposite that pin, continuing in similar fashion around the circle.  When the entire pattern is complete, secure the strands to each pin with a bead of glue around the pin.  Cut away the connections around the circumference after it hardens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that even thread has thickness, which becomes important on a pattern like this where dozens of strands are on top of each other close to the center.  A thick wad of strands interferes with the threads or strings forming nice straight lines.  In replicating the pattern with actual strands of something, it becomes very difficult to keep the pattern clean and uniform.  And even using thread instead of string, the center will have a bulge and won't look flat like the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-11-19T13:10:43.420" LastActivityDate="2021-11-19T13:10:43.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10721" CreationDate="2021-11-19T20:33:36.357" Score="4" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often find myself changing directions by mistake and not noticing it until I find a hole, while knitting in the round using DPNs. This especially happens when I’m just starting a project, when the work can easily flop to the other side of the needles, so that even if I’m always knitting counter-clockwise, I start going the wrong way. I think I’ll try a progress keeper to mark the outside of the work. Any other tricks to prevent this from happening? Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T22:01:20.240" Title="How to avoid knitting the wrong direction in the round?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-20T06:54:36.903" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to crochet an amigurumi skull but I don’t understand what 2dc-cluster 5 means. The same goes for [sc3inc over Ch.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12141" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-21T18:38:41.133" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T02:58:12.807" Title="What does this pattern mean in crochet?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10719" CreationDate="2021-11-20T12:08:49.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always look at where the working thread comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I knit &amp;quot;continental&amp;quot; style, so I would always knit clockwise in the round. My loose end of the working thread always sticks out of the left side of the last stitch, and that last stitch is always right of the working thread. So if I pick up my work and the thread goes into the left stitch, I know I'm holding it the wrong way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you write you always knit counter-clockwise, I assume you use the &amp;quot;English&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;throwing&amp;quot; knitting style. Then your working thread probably comes out of the right side of the last stitch and that stitch must be left of the working thread. Have a close look at your work when you're certain you're working in the right direction and see where the working thread comes out of the last stitch. It doesn't matter if you knit or purl, the working thread will always be at the same side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last but not least a well-meant advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a beginner using the &amp;quot;English&amp;quot; knitting style, maybe because you learned it from your grandma, it's worth switching to the &amp;quot;continental&amp;quot; style. In that style, you don't have to take your hand from your work to &amp;quot;throw&amp;quot; the working thread over the needle for every stitch, which reduces repetitive strain on your hands and increases the speed of your knitting. There are many videos on YouTube or other video platforms available that explain the differences between both styles. You mostly change the way you hold your working thread. You can create all knitting stitches in both styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-11-21T22:01:20.240" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T22:01:20.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10720" CreationDate="2021-11-21T03:11:08.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;dc = double crochet. 2dc means double crochet 2 times. With a 5 double crochet cluster.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;sc = single crochet. sc3inc single crochet with 3 increase over (ch)chain stitch.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Increase: adding an additional stitch into the same stitch pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started crochetting a few years ago, I have a little experience crocheting hearts, and flowers this past year. So hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources that I came across for help.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/how-to-make-double-crochet-stitch-3987790&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/how-to-make-double-crochet-stitch-3987790&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/single-crochet-stitch-tutorial-979083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/single-crochet-stitch-tutorial-979083&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mycrochetpattern.com/beginners/5-dc-cluster-in-one-chain-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mycrochetpattern.com/beginners/5-dc-cluster-in-one-chain-stitch/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mycrochetpattern.com/beginners/3-sc-increase/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mycrochetpattern.com/beginners/3-sc-increase/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wikihow.com/Increase-in-Crochet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.wikihow.com/Increase-in-Crochet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2021-11-21T05:08:15.673" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T05:08:15.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-21T06:15:47.983" Score="3" ViewCount="2882" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to my brief research, in case someone wants to apply concrete to another material made of concrete, resin is needed to make them stick together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I am wondering if cement or concrete could stick to cured epoxy, and if they did, how hard and reliable the connection would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12147" LastEditorUserId="12147" LastEditDate="2021-11-21T06:46:53.753" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T12:11:21.283" Title="Does cement or concrete stick to cured epoxy-resin?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|concrete|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10723" CreationDate="2021-11-21T17:38:24.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Concrete/cement has limited adhesive strength. Surface roughness, undercuts, and rebar/mesh is used to hold concrete structures together. As implied in your question; The epoxy/resin provides most of the adhesive strength when bonding concrete. If epoxy is cured, concrete will provide very little adhesion to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2021-11-21T17:38:24.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10723" CreationDate="2021-11-21T21:49:09.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Epoxy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question mentions resin and then asks about epoxy.  There are certain resins that can be used as a bonding agent, but epoxy isn't one of them.&#xA;It is sometimes used to anchor something like rebar in holes in the old concrete to add mechanical strength between the old and new layers.  You can also use epoxy to glue together two pieces of cured concrete.  But epoxy generally won't bond to wet surfaces, so putting fresh epoxy on the old concrete and then pouring new concrete on top won't accomplish anything, and as blacksmith37 describes, fresh concrete won't adhere well to cured epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concrete adhesion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concrete is very strong in compression, but very weak in tension (being pulled apart).  So &amp;quot;adhesion&amp;quot; is a relative term.  Good adhesion between the layers basically means that the bond will be adequate to tolerate the stresses it will be exposed to for a reasonable time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With two layers of concrete that are each thick enough to have some strength, the issue is usually delamination--the old and new layers separating.  The old surface is typically pretty smooth, and the cement in the new layer doesn't penetrate to a significant depth.  Rather than a lot of three-dimensional surface wrapping around aggregate, the seam is a uniform plane.  Any weak areas that are stressed, or water soaking into the porous concrete and freezing, can break the brittle bond, and the seam is the easy place for the break to propagate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cement sticks to some materials, but again, the bond is relative.  For example, it will stick to wood and some types of plastic, so using those materials to create forms or molds benefits from mold release.  But it doesn't bond to them the way you think of glue bonding.  It sticks just well enough to make cleaning the forms a chore, and before the cement is fully cured, the bond may be strong enough to pull off some of the weak concrete surface when you de-mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonding concrete to concrete&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting new concrete to stick to old concrete requires conditions as close to optimal as you can get them.  The more corners you cut, the weaker the bond will be and the shorter the life of the joint.  The old surface needs to be clean and free of dust and loose material.  It also needs to be damp but not soaking wet.  If it's dry, it will suck water from the new cement, and if it is soaking wet, water will fill the pores and dilute the surface cement of the new layer; either condition resulting in a weaker joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some form of bonding agent is typically required so that the joint doesn't fail in a much shorter time than solid concrete.  A number of materials are routinely used for this purpose (which may be in the composition of a pre-mixed material designed for leveling or patching).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Portland cement.&lt;/strong&gt;  Portland cement is the binder that holds concrete together.  A slurry of pure Portland cement provides a lot more binding in a joint than cement diluted with sand or sand and stones.  A layer is worked into the surface and then the new concrete is added before it hardens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resin.&lt;/strong&gt;  The resin you see referred to as a binder is water-based, typically PVA or acrylic.  Although regular PVA glue can be used, the commercial products sold as a concrete binder are often formulations that are somewhat waterproof when cured.  The water-based acrylic formulations are optimized to act like glue, but in a pinch, people sometimes use acrylic paint that bonds well with concrete.  The resin can be applied as a layer, or sometimes it can be added to the new concrete.  The new concrete must be applied before the bonding agent dries; cement generally won't stick to dried glue or paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonding a new layer will never be as strong as solid concrete, but it can be strong enough to last a reasonable time.  Different bonding agents may work better under different conditions, but it is generally a matter of being &amp;quot;good enough&amp;quot; for what it will be exposed to and how long it needs to last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further reading: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dcpu1.com/blog/guide-to-concrete-adhesion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guide to Concrete Adhesion: What Will Concrete Stick To?&lt;/a&gt; provides some detail on what concrete will and won't stick to.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElNThXvtJ18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to bond new concrete to old concrete&lt;/a&gt; is a quick tutorial on how to do it.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qm4TLiM5go8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4 Ways To Bond New Concrete To Old Concrete&lt;/a&gt; shows a test of four different kinds of bonding agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T12:11:21.283" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T12:11:21.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-22T15:04:10.170" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week I bought a painting on cardboard. The problem is that some divisions of my home have a LOT of humidity. This artwork is intended for my future home, so I need to store it for some months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The painting is fully wrapped in film paper, it was sent this way by the author. Should I remove the film paper, or should I keep it wrapped? My question is about mould and paper deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12154" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-23T08:48:29.633" LastActivityDate="2021-11-25T20:05:45.097" Title="Conservation of painting on cardboard" Tags="|painting|preservation|acrylic-paint|cardboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-22T21:31:48.440" Score="1" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into polishing 3D printed models to a high shine after sanding up to 3000 grit. I am currently trying a rotary tool but it is small and would like something more stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some jeweler's polishers but they are usually rated at a high RPM. Due to the lower melting point of the plastic, I need something with a lower RPM around 1000 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I'm looking for a unit that uses 3-inch buffing/polishing wheels. Are there any particular brands of bench buffer/polishers that can run at a low RPM?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9726" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2021-11-23T00:36:25.173" LastActivityDate="2021-12-23T01:00:45.093" Title="Low RPM buffer/polisher for plastic" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10728" CreationDate="2021-11-22T22:16:53.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've polished about a dozen 3D printed models, some ABS, some PLA. It's possible to get a near mirror finish, very reflective with ordinary wet/dry sandpaper and also with Micromesh™.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're correct to be concerned about the low melting point of the plastic. This is why one uses a polishing material along with water, to carry away the abraded material and to keep the surface cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Micromesh™ I use has a figure of 12000, although that is accompanied by a caution that the numbers are not comparable to conventional sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a device that (barely) shows a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08Q42RSNT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;variable speed polisher&lt;/a&gt; on Amazon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKQZm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKQZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;amazon polisher&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image is courtesy of the linked site. This image shows a zero to ten thousand rpm variable speed, but this image is the only reference I can find for the speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the question/answer section specifies that it should be operated dry, which excludes the cooling effect of a system which allows a water flow. One could argue that the extension handle could be used with water, as it places the activity away from electrical components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the videos from the linked site shows the machine being switched on, and it appears that the zero portion of zero to ten thousand changes the speed from zero (off) to some arbitrary higher speed. A useful speed control would allow gradual ramp-up to reach a speed suitable for polishing plastic in the manner you seek. Perhaps a question via the Amazon facility would provide a clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been unable to locate any true wet/dry equivalent in the hobby/non-commercial product line. The tools in the commercial field are aimed for countertop sized work and larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T22:16:53.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10726" CreationDate="2021-11-23T09:28:31.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with film paper is that it impedes the breathability of the materials. If your house is a lot more humid than the author's house, unpacking the painting will result in the cardboard absorbing a lot of water (and contaminants). However, whatever contaminants &lt;em&gt;currently&lt;/em&gt; invest the cardboard will prosper in their hermetically sealed vivarium, and affect the cardboard - as well as the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the work is made with acrylics, it probably has had enough time to dry sufficiently, and can suffer low breathability for a while. But if it's oil paint, you really don't want to keep the artwork sealed in film, as it will impede the drying process and likely cause long-term problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'd suggest letting a friend, family member, neighbour, colleague, or acquaintance (I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; those are all the options :-) ), store it in a space&lt;/strong&gt; where - as &lt;em&gt;Elmy&lt;/em&gt; suggests in the comments - the atmosphere is stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want low humidity, a temperature between ca. 15° and 25° Celsius (59° and 77° Fahrenheit), low light or darkness, no dust, and to keep it away from doors, windows, or other potential sources of shifts in these conditions, and out of reach of most things: you don't want people storing things on top of it, or against it, or for it to keep getting moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's really not an option, storing it in the most environmentally stable room of your house is the best choice, preferably - as &lt;em&gt;fixer1234&lt;/em&gt; suggests - along with a dehumidifier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would advise you to take the work out of the film in that case and wrap it - loosely! - in bubble wrap: this both allows for breathing and will protect the work, especially the edges. Then place it in another container, like a drawer, where it will stay out of the light and have an extra layer of isolation, so that any changes in temperature and humidity will be minimized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-11-25T20:05:45.097" LastActivityDate="2021-11-25T20:05:45.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-25T15:48:55.207" Score="5" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several silicon molds that I normally used for casting with a two part epoxy resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use them to make scenery for a miniature diorama at Warhammer 40K scale, but I want to customise the models that come out of the molds. Including cutting them down to smaller sizes, adding ware\battle damage, or drilling and pinning them together to make unique pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin is far too hard for this. Cutting them down would be difficult and would probably blunt my hobby knife. It's also too brittle and can snap of shear in unexpected ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something that is easier to cut than resin that I can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried plaster but it is too soft for these molds and breaks into pieces when you try to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe some kind of PLA or plastic that cuts easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The molds are for things like rocks or walls or buildings. Typical diorama things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2021-11-25T21:14:09.040" LastActivityDate="2021-11-25T21:14:09.040" Title="Seeking a material that is softer than resin, but harder than plaster, for casting in a silicon mold?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10731" CreationDate="2021-11-25T19:49:26.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plaster&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plaster should be close to ideal for this application.  Before you give up on it, here are a few considerations and ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even at a thickness of 1/4&amp;quot; or 3/8&amp;quot;, plaster should be strong enough not to easily break up.  Check these possibilities that may be the cause:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not using a good ratio of water to plaster (especially too much water or way too little water).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not waiting long enough for all the plaster to get saturated with water, or not mixing adequately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Demolding too soon and the plaster isn't yet strong enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The plaster is full of air bubbles (use more vibration and tapping to get them out when you pour).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The plaster is old.  Plaster absorbs moisture from the air every time you open the container (or through the container if it isn't airtight).  The moisture allows some of the plaster to hydrate or partially hydrate before you use it, so the casting isn't as strong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make the casting stronger by reinforcing it (good if the item is large but thin).  Line the mold with a layer of plaster and get the bubbles out.  Then lay in some drywall repair mesh and cover with another layer of plaster, or saturate some coarse cloth with plaster and layer it in the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you can get the plaster out of the mold without it breaking, you can add a lot of strength by coating it after the plaster dries.  Dilute PVA glue with a little water and paint the surface.  When that's dry, give it a second coat.  This will help with handling the casting, but it may be of limited value for carving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternate casting materials&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something about the mold is just problematic for casting it with plaster, the next thing to try would be a stronger plaster-like material that is soft enough to easily carve with a hobby knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing the plaster with a small amount of PVA glue adds a lot of strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydrocal is an enhanced plaster that is stronger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jesmonite or its competitors, like Hydroflow, is a stronger casting material that uses plaster with latex acrylic resin rather than water.  It's a bit pricier than plaster, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A few other alternatives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plaster-like casting materials can be demolded within hours and are fully cured within a day or two.  If you have the time, there are air-dry materials that will also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air dry clay or paper mache clay can be applied and dried in relatively thin layers.  It is very strong, so you can often create a shell, with the thickness governed by how much carving you need to do, rather than casting a solid block.  Some formulations are very good at retaining fine surface detail from a mold.  Some air dry clay recipes allow you to demold almost immediately.  Others do better if you wait until it is fully dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can make a clay or putty by mixing sawdust and PVA glue.  Press it into the mold to create a relatively thin shell and let it dry for several days.  If you need more thickness, add another layer after it is fully dry.  The result can be carved or machined similar to wood.  As long as the mixture is putty-like, rather than crumbly, the glue will fill the surface detail when you press it into the mold, and the result will have a surface similar to a resin casting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use hot melt glue.  Apply a thin layer to the mold.  Use a heat gun at a low setting to melt all the glue to a very liquid consistency so it flows well into all the nooks and crannies.  When it has cooled, add another layer (don't use a heat gun after the first layer; you want to minimize heating of previous layers).  Build up layers to the needed thickness using thin layers and allowing it to fully cool before applying the next layer.  Hot glue shrinks when it cools, so if you fill a mold of any significant size with hot glue all in one step, it may distort as it cools.  Doing it in thin layers, allowing each to completely cool, avoids that.  Hot melt glue can be painted, and at room temperature is easily carved or drilled (for any drilling or machining, just be careful to not let the bit get hot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-11-25T20:16:33.013" LastActivityDate="2021-11-25T20:16:33.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-26T23:25:35.897" Score="4" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am seeking to identify an elastic cord with a flat and folded rubber core that I use for restringing dolls. What is this type of core called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kG45y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kG45y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unknown cord&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12164" LastEditorUserId="12164" LastEditDate="2021-12-09T08:31:48.813" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T08:31:48.813" Title="I need help identifying the core of this elastic cord" Tags="|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10734" CreationDate="2021-11-27T00:44:27.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The product shown in the image is often called elastic shock cord. It is usually but not exclusively a rubber center with a wrapped fabric outer covering. The &amp;quot;not exclusively&amp;quot; aspect is because any manufacturer of elastic cord can call it shock cord. Bungee cord is another somewhat ambiguous term which will return from a search this same product, among others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T00:44:27.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-11-27T22:21:16.417" Score="1" ViewCount="5048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a gift using Mod Podge. I just found out I have to wait 4 weeks before it cures, but I only have 2 weeks! It's sticky, and it's not shiny!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used regular Mod Podge, Gloss (3 layers) to decoupage tissue paper to a styrofoam ball (it's a Christmas ornament, to be presented to my boss who is visiting from Germany). &lt;strong&gt;It is sticky, and it's not shiny enough!&lt;/strong&gt; So I thought I would seal it with Ultra Mod Podge Gloss spray - but I just found out I can't put the sealer on now - &lt;strong&gt;the Mod Podge I used to decoupage takes 4 weeks to cure - but I only have 2 weeks till he comes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I make it cure faster, not be sticky, and make it glossy with only 2 weeks left? If I put the Ultra Mod Podge Gloss spray on now, what will happen? Is there some other product I should use to seal it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12167" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-11-29T21:37:50.083" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T20:15:21.033" Title="How can I speed up the curing process of Mod Podge?" Tags="|technique-selection|decoupage-glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10736" CreationDate="2021-11-30T14:17:21.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please keep calm. Most products do have differences between being &amp;quot;fully cured&amp;quot; and being &amp;quot;cured enough to handle&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no first-hand experience with this particular type of ModPodge, but 2 weeks should be enough to dry. Hang / store it in a warm and dry room, preferably right in an air flow to accelerate the drying and see how the surface changes over a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;In an air flow&amp;quot; means things like above a heater, in the path of a fan, in front of a AC unit or similar. The movement of the air is supposed to remove the moisture from the ModPodge quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't risk putting it directly into a low oven because the heat can cause other problems. If you want to try this anyways, leave the oven door open to better regulate the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T14:17:21.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10745" CreationDate="2021-11-30T21:13:16.613" Score="5" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to make homemade candles for Christmas this year and I want them to have a nice relaxing lavender smell to them. The first time around I used about 10 drops off lavender essential oils in 12 oz of hot wax, but that didn't seem to do the trick. The fragrance is barely there. Is there any way to do this with essential oils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how I can use essential oils to make a candle smell good while burning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastEditorUserId="12180" LastEditDate="2021-12-01T19:18:41.437" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T14:05:21.120" Title="How do I add fragrance when making homemade candles?" Tags="|wax|candle-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10743" CreationDate="2021-12-01T15:20:47.370" Score="3" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I attach frilly extension of skirt using a sewing machine WITHOUT the thread appearing on the front of the skirt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without sewing machine only alternative to sew on the frilly extension is to blind-stitch by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VIKrR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VIKrR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front of skirt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPEmu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPEmu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back of skirt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-02T10:27:30.777" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T13:49:46.717" Title="How do I attach frilly extension of skirt using a sewing machine WITHOUT the thread appearing on the front of the skirt?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-01T20:05:41.367" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just unloaded a bisque fire and noticed that a mug (made from B-Mix cone 5/6 Laguna clay) has a 2 inch crack on the bottom. Is there any way to fix the crack my using glaze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-02T10:28:36.217" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T10:28:36.217" Title="I just fired a mug (cone 5/6 B-Mix clay) in my kiln and there is a 2 inch crack along the bottom. Is there any way to save this by glazing it?" Tags="|restoration|ceramics|clay|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10741" CreationDate="2021-12-02T01:57:05.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what I see in the picture is what’s up, this should do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what I see is the plaid skirt with a serged hem that is folded up and hemmed with a professional blind stitch machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the blind hem stitch. There is a trick to remove the thread with one pull if you start at the right spot. Regardless, remove that hem, without removing the serged edge. Then, using the instructions in your 1304’s manual blind hem it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ISyzL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;page 27 Singer 1304 manual&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See in illustration #2 how the zig zag hits the fabric, this would be the “right” side or front/showing side of the garment. Because the one zig zag stitch hits all and not the straight stitch, this is what makes it a blind hem. Of course there are ways to fold the fabric before stitching, which is pretty generic in this manual. You probably want to practice the blind hem with scrap fabric to get a feel for the method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to “marry” or “kiss” the fabrics together so when you pull on the finished piece the thread is pulled to the back. This is what makes it disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVEjD.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; alt=&quot;wiki pic&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's use this illustration and identify with your materials:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;#1 blue - plaid fabric front/right side&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;#1 green - plaid fabric folded&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;#1 red - both plaid &amp;amp; frill&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;#1 green - frill&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;#1 light green  - frill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The orange “top view” is how the stitch should appear on the inside (wrong side) once pulled and pressed.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;#2 shows the cross section view finished.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is where you have to think creatively to attach the correct side of the frill. That’s why I highly recommend practicing on scraps and identifying front/back so you fold correctly.  I know I would attach the frill backwards on my first try. ☺️&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastEditorUserId="817" LastEditDate="2021-12-02T13:49:46.717" LastActivityDate="2021-12-02T13:49:46.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-02T14:16:23.997" Score="4" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a cup on Etsy (that's in the likeness of the one John Dutton uses in the show Yellowstone.) It looks awesome but I noticed tiny pinholes in the glaze on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know nothing about pottery but read a little online. The concern is that the holes are deep enough to connect to the inside of the cup and either draw water in or leach something out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guessed that if I were to weigh the cup, fill the cup with water for some time, empty and dry it, and weigh it again, then an increase in weight might confirm the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I weighed the cup last night and it was 343.5 g. I left it filled with water overnight. I emptied and dried it thoroughly this morning. Now the cup weighs 360.6 g. That's a significant increase of 17.1 g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But like I said, I don't know enough about pottery to know for certain. Is this normal for ceramic? Is there something I haven't considered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to use this cup daily and wasn't just looking to buy it for looks, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are images of the holes found in the glaze after opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1IwDy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1IwDy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tiny gap on side of inside&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zffq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zffq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pinholes on base of inside&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="12186" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-02T14:48:16.717" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T17:58:45.873" Title="Should a ceramic cup gain this much weight after this test?" Tags="|safety|ceramics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10739" CreationDate="2021-12-02T16:05:08.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use essential oils to to make homemade candles. Make sure you add it into the wax mixture when creating it and never add it directly on the top of a pre-made candle because essential oils are flammable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my quick searches of 'essential oils for homemade candles' their recommended essential oil drops are between 30-45 drops. Then I do see blogs focused around aromatherapy suggesting 80-100 drops. 10 drops might not be enough. Trial and error are probably the best thing that could be done since it is several weeks before Christmas. It will give a couple weeks to try them out and see if it is the fragrance you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the blog by runtoradiance they mention about &amp;quot;flash points&amp;quot; related to high heat and soy candles, and how important it is to pick the right type of essential oil for diy scented candles. How hot and cold temperatures affect essential oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in the comments above it is going to take a couple weeks for the smell to fully develop in a home made candle. Just keep trying and see what is best scent wise to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resources related to how much wax to add to home-made essential candles:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;How to make essential oil candles: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.essentialoilhaven.com/how-to-make-candles-with-essential-oils/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.essentialoilhaven.com/how-to-make-candles-with-essential-oils/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Easy diy essential candles: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.runtoradiance.com/easy-diy-essential-oil-candles/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.runtoradiance.com/easy-diy-essential-oil-candles/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;How hot and cold temps affect essential oils: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theresaneoforthat.com/how-hot-and-cold-temperatures-affect-essential-oils/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.theresaneoforthat.com/how-hot-and-cold-temperatures-affect-essential-oils/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2021-12-04T14:05:21.120" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T14:05:21.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10744" CreationDate="2021-12-02T19:27:43.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should a ceramic cup gain this much weight after this test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good ceramic, probably not. Properly coated good ceramic, surely not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad ceramic with a joke of a coat? Maybe possible. Especially if the cup is on the big-ish size, and if the coat is broken in really many places (it seems that it is), and if the clay is very porous (the underside might give a clue, but not necessarily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the words of the song (see Elvis): &amp;quot;Return to sender&amp;quot;. It might not even be usable as a pot for some flowers. Even flowers demand a minimum of quality from their environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2021-12-03T17:16:56.433" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T17:16:56.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10749" CreationDate="2021-12-03T11:45:49.660" Score="4" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific name for this style of 3d art where objects have a black outline/border?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Some of them are colorful (like Lucha Fury) while some of them have a simple color and shading (like the Naruto skin in Fortnite).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see some call it &amp;quot;Telltale games style&amp;quot; and others refer to it as &amp;quot;Cel shading&amp;quot; which is a rendering technique... So, am I mixing things up? Is it a single art style, multiple art styles, or none of them? I'd really like to follow this style for my 3d journey, but I'm not sure what is the correct keyword(s) to search for examples and tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LNDlw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LNDlw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wolf Among Us - Telltale Games&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjKLg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjKLg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fortnite&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Wolf Among Us - Telltale Games&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Fortnite - Naruto Skin&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q27Sd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q27Sd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFMBe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFMBe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Lucha Fury&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;GTA Chinatown&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="12005" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-03T12:16:34.300" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T15:24:57.010" Title="What is the name of this 3D rendering style/technique with solid colors and black outlines?" Tags="|terminology|technique-identification|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10748" CreationDate="2021-12-03T12:13:53.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right on track: this technique and the derived (generic) style your images have in common are called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cel_shading&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cel shading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, named after the transparent celluloid sheets that are used in classical comic and animation production:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rtvF1.png&quot; width=&quot;350&quot; alt=&quot;celluloid sheet with Donald and Mickey&quot;/&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://animationbasketcase.wordpress.com/2015/05/27/celluloid-animation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These sheets are used to separate animation from the inanimate background and static props. On them, the outlines are usually drawn on one side, and the objects coloured in on the back, giving crisp outlines.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These outlines are rendered in 3D using edge detection, to simulate a flat character. To the same effect, real-time lighting effects are often a lot less gradual (i.e. it is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_quantization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quantized&lt;/a&gt;). This can be seen clearly on the pants of the Naruto Skin shader, whereas Telltale opted for a more subtle lighting, balancing TWD's art style between the comic style of their source material and the realism the emotionally heavy storyline demands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-05T15:24:57.010" LastActivityDate="2021-12-05T15:24:57.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10751" CreationDate="2021-12-03T17:25:01.980" Score="2" ViewCount="1334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across two kinds of frames:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First type has frame width around 1 cm to 1.5 cm max. But it is thick frame. I mean if you view it from side, it will look thick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/91Rni.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/91Rni.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;             &lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9HRB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9HRB.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second type has width around 0.75&amp;quot; to 1&amp;quot;. So it's wide, but if you view it from side, it is doesn't have much height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tk1p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tk1p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2Etf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2Etf.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;                                     &lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find exact images and their side views, but I've shared relevant images and few rough illustrated examples above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So both have similar mat mounts but the borders have different widths and weights. Both are meant to be hanged on wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was about to get my artworks framed, but I just paid attention to this detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like the narrow border as shown in 1st case. But I want to understand the reasons. The shop I visited for framing had most of the frames with wide borders. I couldn't find a narrow border. Except a few but I didn't buy them because they were small in overall size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So is there any specific purpose of each of them? Does a narrow or wide border matter depend on the type of artwork?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-05T11:40:42.410" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T13:31:51.497" Title="Why choose a thick or thin frame for displaying artwork?" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10750" CreationDate="2021-12-04T14:38:38.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a purpose, but &lt;strong&gt;it is almost exclusively aesthetical&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like the material and colour of a frame, the width of the frame and that of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mat_(picture_framing)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;passepartout&lt;/a&gt; (or mat) have a huge visual impact on the way an artwork is perceived.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A mild example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeAps.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CeAps.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;Artist: Lynne Roebuck. Source: adapted from Pinterest&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where proper framing can accentuate an artwork's composition and colour scheme, improper framing can make the same artwork look drab. Professional framing is an art of nuance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the depth of a frame, while not having as much visual impact under most circumstances, depends mostly (and practically) on the type of artwork: a photograph doesn't need a lot of frame depth, whereas a painting, being deeper by nature, preferably needs additional space on the front side as well as the backside for conservational reasons (protection from dust and to facilitate acclimatization, respectively).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Objects that have an even more significant third dimension, like tapestries or sculptures, need more volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other, practical, considerations for the thickness of a frame are material costs (a beech frame is cheaper than one of rosewood) and structural strength (larger and heavier artworks demand a stronger structure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to passepartouts, their function is more to obscure distracting aspects of an artwork, like hiding the edges of the canvas or paper, or to isolate a subject or a more well-balanced composition.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Getting the right colour, width, format, aspect ratio, thickness, grain, &amp;amp;c., is naturally again a matter of aesthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compare different options, you have ...well, different options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In smaller local shops you can usually ask for a comparison between various alternatives, especially if they specialize in framing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're slightly experienced with any image editor, you can even get a (crude) comparison by trying out things digitally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or physically cut out rectangular shapes in differently coloured paper and of different sizes and widths and determine what works best by shuffling those around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T13:31:51.497" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T13:31:51.497" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-04T19:49:13.283" Score="1" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most 3D pens on the market (for example the 3Doodler Create and the Mynt3D) use rods of 1.75mm PLA filament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be very similar to the 1.75mm PLA used by a desktop printer. Which is usually much cheaper than 3D pen refills&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody every tried using desktop printer PLA with a 3D pen, and are there any guides\videos available demonstrating techniques for its use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T21:57:35.847" Title="Can you use PLA filament from a desktop 3D printer with a 3D pen?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-04T21:06:30.820" Score="3" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I made DIY clay ornaments to give as Christmas gifts. I did some experimentation prior to the important day but still struggled. I have tried an air dry polymer clay by Sculpey, as well as a generic brand of terracotta polymer clay for beginners. The glaze I used was a double glaze specifically for pottery. I also tried Mod Pod, and acrylic sealer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Maybe the attempt to use acrylic paint instead of a different type of paint on the clay could have been a mistake, I am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue was that whenever the glaze dried, no matter what the ornament came in contact with it stuck to the object and pulled away from the clay ornament and pulled the paint right off. It is frustrating, I have also had this happen with other projects I work on with acrylic and clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use an oven drying process of 250F for ~20 minutes for the clay ornament to completely dry;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for it to cool completely;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sandpaper to give clear coat something to stick to;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for clear coat to dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint it with white acrylic paint as a primer base&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for it to completely dry;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sandpaper to give acrylic paint something to adhere to;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps of acrylic and sandpaper until desired amount&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint it with acrylic paint;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for it to completely dry;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add glaze;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait to dry;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add an additional coat of glaze;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait to dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further investigation and input:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;First few searches on Duckduckgo for &amp;quot;diy Christmas ornaments&amp;quot; use an already colored polymer clay, or using natural color of the clay, and using textures on the clay to give it festive look. Also when acrylic paint is used, it is not entirely covering the whole ornament. Some use glitter, I am not a huge fan of glitter because of micro plastic. Another option to use instead of glitter is using colored sand to decorate ornament. This doesn't entirely answer my original question, but it gives other options instead of using a sealer or clear coat on ornament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I prevent paint and glaze from peeling off of clay Christmas ornaments?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2021-12-07T02:41:43.887" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T09:02:34.790" Title="How to prevent paint from peeling off of clay christmas ornaments?" Tags="|painting|preservation|polymer-clay|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10752" CreationDate="2021-12-04T21:57:35.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. I have both devices and agree that the cost is much less for the spooled filament than the manufacturer's provided small quantities. Both devices use ABS and PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3D pen I have used 3.00 (2.88) mm filament as does one of my printers. The worst aspect of this method of use is that the curvature of the filament from the spool causes binding within the pen and requires the user to apply force periodically to ensure feeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not tried it, but I suspect one could extend a few meters of filament from a spool, apply a weight and some hair dryer heat to encourage gravity straightening. Heat from a heat gun will likely distort the filament diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T21:57:35.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10753" CreationDate="2021-12-06T14:39:41.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to have to do with the process of sanding, adding sealers and layering the acrylic paint in a specific order. It is going to need more than 2-4 layers of sealer and acrylic paint to finish the ornament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my process I added a white primer as a base, but could have added a sealer on the very first layer, and then added a primer. Numerous layers need to be sanded to give it an abrasion, so the acrylic as well as the sealer has the ability to stick. Otherwise it is going to be ripped off whether it is because one ornament is resting beside another in storage, or just because it's held in the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://wastedtalentinc.com/can-you-use-acrylic-paint-on-polymer-clay/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-05T09:02:34.790" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T09:02:34.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10704" CreationDate="2021-12-07T07:53:18.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slightly different approach to Elmy's &amp;quot;Extend the waistband&amp;quot; idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the zipper out.  Now, widen the skirt slightly in that upper portion.  One of the former zipper seam allowances will become an underlay, and the other will be an folded overlay.  You can use hook and eye closures instead of a zipper.  You'll probably need to extend both the underlay and the overlay by attaching a band of cloth or a grosgrain ribbon.  This should be chosen to be of a similar color.  The band or ribbon doesn't have to match the skirt color exactly, because it won't actually show when you're wearing the skirt.  Some interfacing would help stabilize things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually I don't use a metal eye in this situation -- I do use a very small metal hook from the hook and eye package, but then I create a quasi-eye out of thread. For each &amp;quot;eye,&amp;quot; you need at least six threads and you should make sure the overlapping stitches are uniform in length and tension.  You might think the loop should sit a little loose on the fabric, but you should resist this temptation.  Actually such an &amp;quot;eye&amp;quot; will work better if there's no looseness or tightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This thread eye works better than a metal eye because there's less bulk.  Also, to accommodate slight fluctuations in your measurement at the waist and upper hip, you can make TWO rows of thread eyes, and then choose whichever row is more comfortable on any given day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old waistband will now just be an extension of the skirt.  Because the circumference of the former waistband will now be slightly larger than before, the skirt will sit a little lower on you than before.  You won't have that tight &amp;quot;waistband&amp;quot; look any more but that's a nice look also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help you understand this proposal, imagine putting on a skirt with a waistband, which is a bit big on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the zipper seam allowances weren't generous enough to allow the skirt to sit one inch lower than before, you can add a bit more circumference by letting the skirt out a bit at the other side seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make the former waistband fit through the upper hip area better by tapering it a bit wherever the skirt originally had a seam.  (With this A-line skirt I suspect there were only two vertical seams -- but maybe three....)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're doing any pressing (with the iron), be careful to protect the skirt fabric with a pressing cloth because of the wool.  To eliminate a former crisp folded edge, put a damp washcloth (clean) between the skirt fabric and the pressing cloth.  You may also spray a bit of water on the crease you're trying to get rid of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus additional option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could leave the skirt unaltered and wear it with a white cotton petticoat that is one inch longer than the skirt so it peeks out from underneath.  The petticoat should have a nice scalloped edging at the bottom.  These edgings are sold by the yard.  You could attach this straight to the bottom of the petticoat or you could gather it depending on the look you prefer.  Gathering would make it look more purposeful so that might be an advantage.  To understand this idea, think back to the crinoline petticoats of the 60's (still used to this day for square dance outfits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit anachronistic in an A-line plaid wool skirt but it could be a fun solution.  I wouldn't use a dark color because then it would look like an unfortunate accident (as though the skirt shrank but the lining didn't).  The reason this approach would work is that the petticoat will only have one inch sticking out below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T07:53:18.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-07T16:27:02.843" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interested in making crafts that would be natural coloring for diy projects around the holiday season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;webstaurantstore.com gave a lot of examples of what to use as a natural food coloring, which could also be used and incorporated into crafts done at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such as using beet root powder for reds, turmeric powder for yellows, cocoa powder for browns etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.webstaurantstore.com/blog/3696/natural-food-coloring.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.webstaurantstore.com/blog/3696/natural-food-coloring.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Natural coloring for holiday ornaments instead of acrylic paint?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2021-12-11T16:19:04.933" LastActivityDate="2021-12-11T16:19:04.933" Title="Natural coloring for holiday ornaments instead of acrylic paint?" Tags="|dye|dyeing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2021-12-08T08:13:41.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10758" CreationDate="2021-12-08T04:03:10.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use yarn, even if you don’t knit or crochet you can wrap it around popsicle sticks and stuff. Dried orange slices with cinnamon sticks, star anise etc are pretty. Unfortunately I can’t think of anything sparkly. Pinterest will have tons of ideas! Merry Christmas :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2021-12-08T04:03:10.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10763" CreationDate="2021-12-09T00:10:10.060" Score="3" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the fastest way (i.e. most efficient way) to wax a ceramic pot before glazing. I'm starting to do production pottery and need to find the quickest way to wax the bottom of pots without wasting time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have all of the pots lined up (upside down) and go along painting on the wax with a thicker paint brush as not to waste time. I have also watered down my wax so that it is quicker to paint and quicker to dry. But, any other advice would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-11T11:46:33.227" LastActivityDate="2021-12-11T11:46:33.227" Title="What is the easiest way to wax the bottom of a ceramic pot before glazing?" Tags="|ceramics|pottery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10762" CreationDate="2021-12-09T19:46:37.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your pottery all have exactly the same size and shaped bottoms, you could make a shield out of cardboard or acrylic with an opening in the center which exactly matches that bottom.  You could then add more cardboard or acrylic on the bottom side of that shield to build up a downward pointing ridge that fits the first quarter inch of the sides of each pot.  This shield could then be quickly placed on top of each pot and held in place with one hand while the other hand applies the brush to the exposed bottom.  The shield would hopefully catch any excess wax, keeping it from rolling down the sides to interfere with the glazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the wax may gather on the shield after each use, you may need wipe it off after every few pots.  Creating a second tool in the form of a towel covered cone which matches the shield's opening and sides, could give you a place to perform that cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final improvement to the shield would involve finding a wide brush which can apply wax to an entire pot bottom in one stroke.  Once you have such a brush, you can add raised sides to the top of the shield to form a trough to guide that extremely efficient brush stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2021-12-09T19:46:37.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11954" CreationDate="2021-12-12T18:13:33.807" Score="5" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to indicate the angle at which a person is depicted in the visual arts: &lt;em&gt;en profil&lt;/em&gt;/in profile, &lt;em&gt;en trois quarts&lt;/em&gt;, frontal. While these all generally relate to portraits, I wonder if there is a term for seeing a person from the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In video games there is the term 'third person', but while this term AFAIK is gaining ground in the film world, this has more to do with the position of a camera in relation to a person we &lt;em&gt;identify&lt;/em&gt; with than with one &lt;em&gt;we are watching as someone else&lt;/em&gt; (or &lt;em&gt;empathize&lt;/em&gt; with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hammershøi famously depicted people this way in his still interiors, influenced by Vermeer and Ter Borgh:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNCGk.jpg&quot; width=&quot;350&quot; alt=&quot;Vilhelm Hammershoi - Interior with Young Woman seen from the Back - 1904&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interior_with_Young_Woman_Seen_from_the_Back&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This painting is titled 'Interior with Young Woman seen from the Back', but I wonder if there is a more technical term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-11-10T22:09:27.530" Title="What is it called when we view a person from the back?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10767" CreationDate="2021-12-13T16:17:44.013" Score="9" ViewCount="1360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to write a letter, in the present, addressed to my children in the future (no sad reasons involved; I just thought it would be nice to share my emotions of a new parent directly with my grown-up children, if with a long lag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper and ink would need to thus withstand about 20 years of storage. Ideally, the writing should still be legible then, paper not crumbly etc. It wouldn't need to be mint condition, but practically readable and &amp;quot;keepable&amp;quot; - perhaps they want to hold on to the letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What combination of materials (paper, ink) would you suggest? Specifically, I am thinking about the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/477/whats-the-difference-between-drawing-paper-and-regular-paper&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; talks about differences in drawing vs. printer paper, and states that drawing paper is more long-lasting. Is it sufficient for two decades of waiting? Is a specific type of paper best advised?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it practical to pull this off without special storage? I'd like to store the letters with other documents, i.e. dry and safe, but without special storage conditions like air-conditioning. I live in fairly humid climate (UK) but not excessively so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about ink? I understand most inks fade over time, would this be an issue?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the choice of ink impact choice of paper and vice versa?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12231" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T01:55:49.840" Title="Future-proofing paper and ink letter" Tags="|paper|preservation|ink|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10766" CreationDate="2021-12-13T19:11:26.137" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The choice of paper won't be very difficult. There are different types and brands of paper available in craft stores, stationary sections and even copy shops. You'll want to go for &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;acid free&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; or &amp;quot;art&amp;quot; paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even cheap copy paper will most likely survive 20 years undamaged, but it will become very yellow and get a brittle texture which increases the risk of tearing. I have some old, cheap copy paper lying around that's almost 30 years old and despite not being white anymore, it's still usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ink is a different story. The safest solution is to write your letter with a &lt;strong&gt;graphite pen&lt;/strong&gt;. Regular blue ink (the kind used in school) fades withing 10-20 years (more or less). There are so many different types of ballpoint ink around, that it's impossible to tell how long the ink of a certain pen will last. You can ask the sales personnell in a craft or stationary shop for special pens that don't fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have a quill or dip-pen, the safest bet is &lt;strong&gt;archival quality Registrars' Ink&lt;/strong&gt;. Depending on where you live, it's probably a modern variation of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_gall_ink&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;iron gall ink&lt;/a&gt; that has the special property of actually tanning the paper and thereby permanently dying the paper itself. The moment you write with this ink, it can look almost pale, but the script keeps on darkening over time until it reaches a deep, dark brown. There might also be ballpoint pens available with this type of ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-12-13T19:11:26.137" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10744" CreationDate="2021-12-13T22:58:54.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ceramics are made of clay and inherently clay is porous. When the clay is first fired it goes from greenware to biqueware. At this point your mug would still be porous and allow water to be absorbed. Once you glaze a piece and fire it again, then this is called glazedware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on if the clay/glaze is low fire (cone 5/6) or high fire (cone 8/10) this can lead to water absorption and retention or a lack there of. I would ask the etsy artist who you purchased this mug from what type of clay/glaze they used. Is it low fire or high fire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they used low fire, then absorption is possible and normal. If you want a mug that is almost completely impervious to water then you would need a high fired mug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you aren't happy that your mug isn't completely water proof then I would consider returning it. But if you're ok with drinking from a mug that is still porous and it isn't leaking all over the place while you have a cup of tea or coffee then I would keep it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastEditorUserId="12180" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T17:58:45.873" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T17:58:45.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-13T23:03:56.980" Score="3" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working with a ceramic column and I'm trying to connect a soft rubber gasket to it, but I need an adhesive to hold the rubber gasket inside the columns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ui6nO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ui6nO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need advice on which adhesive to use when trying to adhere a soft rubber gasket to the inside of a ceramic column. I was told I should use gorilla glue, but I'm not sure if that is my best option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T16:14:31.473" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T16:14:31.473" Title="Best adhesive to use for rubber gaskets inside ceramic column?" Tags="|adhesives|ceramics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10766" CreationDate="2021-12-14T12:56:06.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is much easier than the other answer suggest. As long as your storage stays dry you should be fine for a few decades with any kind of paper and any kind of ink pen or a regular pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have numerous handwritten notes from the 1950s written with different ink pens on different pieces of paper. As long as they stayed dry all of them are still perfectly clear and legible. The paper is somewhat yellow but there is no deterioration visible on the ink. In museums you can see handwritten notes several centuries old. As long as the paper stays dry it will easily last a century or two without any special ink or paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12241" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T12:56:06.997" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10766" CreationDate="2021-12-14T18:12:35.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both papers and inks are available as &amp;quot;archival quality&amp;quot; products. &amp;quot;Acid free&amp;quot; is a similar designation. These products are manufactured to degrade little over time. Just look for those terms at any arts supply or office supply store. As long as your letters aren't stored in an extreme high-temperature and/or high-humdity environment, they should fare well for decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12244" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T18:12:35.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10775" CreationDate="2021-12-15T13:18:56.670" Score="5" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider an aquarelle painting mostly done with watercolour and little touches of gouache.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May it be considered as mixed media because it includes more than one medium, or does it still qualify as watercolour? The same question about an oil painting done with oils and signed for instance using a different medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, what are the criteria for qualifying as mixed media ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10789" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T19:23:07.403" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T16:31:55.930" Title="Definition of mixed media in painting" Tags="|drawing|painting|material-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10774" CreationDate="2021-12-15T14:17:10.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is all fine - choose whatever you think is important to communicate to your audience&lt;/strong&gt; - that is, what you think will get your concept across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mixed media&lt;/em&gt; as a medium in the visual arts is not strictly defined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With two mediums you can also opt to simply name those two (e.g. &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;watercolour and gouache&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;oils and ink&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;), so it's even clearer, but, again, it depends on what you want to communicate to your audience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't opt for mentioning the medium I signed in, because it's (usually) unrelated to the artwork as an individual piece (I rarely sign the front to begin with since I think it distracts from the work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T14:54:56.043" LastActivityDate="2021-12-15T14:54:56.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10774" CreationDate="2021-12-16T16:31:55.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combining different painting and drawing materials, rather than one medium.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using heavy paper material for reworking into the painting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil pastels on acrylic, and watercolor paintings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soft pastels used on watercolor paintings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watercolor pencils and crayons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charcoal working on top, in between, and into the paint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pieces of cut up papers, and magazines added into paintings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The beauty of mixed media is that it is left open to the creator, and you don't need to be excellent at fine art or drawing skills to make beautiful art&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liveabout.com/mixed-media-painting-4173710&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.liveabout.com/mixed-media-painting-4173710&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mixedmediaart.net/mixed-media-art/what-is-mixed-media-art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.mixedmediaart.net/mixed-media-art/what-is-mixed-media-art&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2021-12-16T16:31:55.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3048" CreationDate="2021-12-16T21:36:04.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic paints mixed with Liquitex Varnish Medium. Choose matte, satin, or gloss. Dolls can even be washed once the paint has cured. No harsh detergents. Mild dish soap is best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12256" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2021-12-17T14:30:46.047" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T14:30:46.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10321" CreationDate="2021-12-17T23:45:05.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it's called a one shoulder overall. See the links below for vendors selling something similar to what this boy is wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.evisu.com/us/splash-embroidered-one-shoulder-overalls-2esgnw1js285rx.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.evisu.com/us/splash-embroidered-one-shoulder-overalls-2esgnw1js285rx.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://riceforlunch.com/home/product/asymmetrical-one-shoulder-overalls/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://riceforlunch.com/home/product/asymmetrical-one-shoulder-overalls/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T23:45:05.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10836" CreationDate="2021-12-17T23:52:28.547" Score="4" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I properly apply sodium silicate to a ceramic bowl to achieve the type of effect seen in the image below? I know that I need to apply it after I have opened the hole in the bowl on the wheel, but then what are the next steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXN2L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXN2L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T11:43:34.240" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T02:45:21.143" Title="How do you apply sodium silicate to a ceramic bowl to achieve a cracked effect?" Tags="|ceramics|technique-application|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10782" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-12-18T12:55:28.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/medium-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;medium-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;medium-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T12:55:28.000" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T12:55:28.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10783" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-12-18T12:55:28.000" Score="0" Body="If you're unsure on how to achieve a certain effect using a specific technique. Please describe the things you've tried so far. Note that asking for complete guides is off-topic." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T12:55:28.000" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T12:55:28.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10784" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2021-12-18T12:58:26.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;material-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-identification&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-identification&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-identification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/medium-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;medium-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;medium-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T12:58:26.583" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T12:58:26.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10785" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2021-12-18T12:58:26.583" Score="0" Body="Use when you want to find out where to get a specific material. Give a detailed overview of what properties you are looking for, what materials you have been able to find, and how they are not right for what you want to achieve. Note that asking for shopping recommendations is off-topic here." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-18T12:58:26.583" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T12:58:26.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10769" CreationDate="2021-12-18T16:10:13.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spent five years in the hand tool industry, working with hardware, and working with glues, and adhesives. Also looking at options that are specifically for ceramic. There are a few things to keep in mind. 1) None of these options are for food-grade safe. Wasn't mentioned in the question above. 2) Not all adhesives are water-proof. 3) It might not be in this instance, make sure your area has something covering surface below the project you are working on. Have a spatula/scraper on hand for application so you are not touching it with your hands/fingers. Also keep in mind to wear rubber gloves to keep your fingers safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that aside here are some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gorilla 2 Part Epoxy, 5 Minute Set (this type was specifically for ceramic) &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001Z3C3AG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Z3C3AG/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Krazy Glue for home and office use &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07YQ7DZBJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YQ7DZBJ/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;J-B Weld 50112 ClearWeld 5 Minute Set Epoxy (this is used with ceramic) &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B009EU5ZM0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EU5ZM0/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally worked with Gorilla Glue, as well as J-B Weld. Both are excellent brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-glue-for-ceramic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-glue-for-ceramic/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ceramices.com/best-glue-for-ceramic-repair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ceramices.com/best-glue-for-ceramic-repair/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2021-12-18T16:10:13.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10788" CreationDate="2021-12-18T23:35:30.347" Score="6" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm painting acrylic on smooth-sanded birch plywood, painting along over some pencil marks I made as guidelines. Some pencil marks are now painted over with yellow acrylic and the pencil marks still show (though lightly), while other darker paints do not have any transparency and do not show pencil marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried erasing them after the yellow dried, but the pencil marks are not working well. I'm using an eraser labeled for use on paper and film, brand says &amp;quot;Staedtler Mars-Plastic&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to paint more yellow over the pencil, but at this point I've painted a layer of designs on top of the yellow background, so spot-painting more yellow will stand out/be uneven with the rest of the yellow background. Whoops - should've tried erasing the underlying pencil before continuing with the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ways to erase the pencil under acrylic? Here are some pictures (thankfully the pencil marks are faint but look for a sine curve on the yellow):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/32rJI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/32rJI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;yellow background with pencil mark under it&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOj6w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOj6w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;yellow background with pencil mark under it&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="12264" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-20T20:25:12.677" LastActivityDate="2021-12-20T20:25:12.677" Title="How to erase visible pencil marks on wood that has been painted over with acrylic paint?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|pencils|erasers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10787" CreationDate="2021-12-19T00:35:06.410" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You cannot erase it anymore.&lt;/strong&gt; The graphite is underneath the paint, slightly mixed up in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to get rid of the graphite is by painting over it, I'm afraid. But instead of painting layer after layer of a translucent paint, an easier option is to either mix titanium white in with the yellow, or apply a layer of titanium white first. Titanium white is one of the most opaque tints.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;An alternative is to find a more opaque yellow, that is one that contains more pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T00:35:06.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10766" CreationDate="2021-12-19T01:55:49.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have real life experience with this scenario.  My father wrote a letter to me on the day I came home from the hospital.  He wrote it on yellow legal pad paper with a standard ball point pen.  He then folded it and sealed it in a normal #10 envelope.  It was filed among the other family papers in a wooden file cabinet which travelled with my family from New York state to the Bahamas to Florida.  The file cabinet was beaten up and severely aged by my eighteenth birthday when my mother, by then a widow, delivered the letter to me. We steamed the envelop open and found that the legal pad paper inside had faded to a tannish light brown.  The ink was clearly visible and the message was priceless.  Forty years later, that envelope now rests in my safe and is among my most valued possessions.  It is brittle and one of the folds has broken partially free, but it is still perfectly readable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my answer to you is to write your letter now, before the perfect archival paper and permanent ink arrives.  Get your thoughts down on paper with whatever tools you have available in this moment.  If you later transcribe it onto a better medium, that is a bonus.  But 99% of the treasure of what you are trying to create here is in your words, in the personal nuances of your penmanship and the flavor of your word choice. None of that treasure lies within the paper your words are written on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2021-12-19T01:55:49.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-21T15:37:29.967" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into cheap materials I can cast candles into, and I'm wondering if recycled HDPE plastic would be a safe mold to cast candles in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12276" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T21:06:55.757" Title="Can you cast candle wax in a HDPE Mold safely?" Tags="|casting|mold-making|candle-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-22T02:30:07.680" Score="4" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not exactly a craft made by me, but this is the best thing I can find to ask this question. I am a new owner of a nice leather bound book, got it a few days ago, and I am wondering how exactly I should go about preserving it, as I read about issues with drying up or experiencing red rot, and am very concerned, and I can't find anything saying how to actually work to prevent red rot, only how to slow it &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; it starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book is brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How exactly do I go about preventing it? And what are further methods for the preservation of leather books?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently just have it on a shelf in my room, out of direct sunlight. I am not using gloves, as I read not to, but am washing my hands completely and as well as I can before touching it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12278" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-09T14:40:56.363" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T14:40:56.363" Title="How to preserve/care for a leather book?" Tags="|preservation|book-binding|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10791" CreationDate="2021-12-24T22:17:25.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Safely&amp;quot; can have a lot of meanings, as Chris H mentions in a comment.  A mold of paper-thin HDPE could soften and burst, but something more substantial, like a recycled bottle or jug, won't melt from the hot wax and spill wax everywhere, and won't leach harmful chemicals into the wax.  So it's safe from that perspective as long as you start with something that was designed to be a container and is substantial enough that it keeps its shape when you handle it.  In fact, candle molds are commonly made from HDPE.  But there is a catch if by &amp;quot;safely&amp;quot; you mean getting the anticipated outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HDPE softens at a much lower temperature than it melts at.  HDPE candle molds typically have thick walls so they are very rigid, and sometimes also have reinforcing shapes on the outside.  A thin-walled container, like a recycled bottle, can easily be deformed at room temperature by squeezing it with your fingers or applying a little air pressure.  At room temperature, it returns to its manufactured shape when you stop.  But if you warm it to the temperature of melted wax, it deforms much more easily and will retain the deformed shape if it cools like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by &amp;quot;recycled HDPE&amp;quot;, you mean HDPE you've melted and formed into rigid flat stock, that will work fine if you create a mold from it.  If you're referring to using (washed out) bottles or canisters, they are likely to deform if you don't contain the outside.  So you could do something like embed the bottle in sand to keep its shape, and then fill it with hot wax and allow it to cool before removing it from the sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to be aware of is the potential for the heat to soften and collapse the neck and opening of the bottle, or shrink the unfilled portion.  The bottles may become single-use molds that you need to cut away unless you first cut off the top to the desired candle height, and then fill it to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-12-26T20:27:48.227" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T20:27:48.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10799" CreationDate="2021-12-25T11:48:06.903" Score="6" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the technique/fabric technology to make raised surface pattern as seen on Captain America suits (see the image below)? At first sight, I thought it was quilting pattern, but upon closer inspection, I noticed that there is no stitching line at all around the bumpy pattern! It is so fascinating!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpMgT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpMgT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12294" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T16:44:44.297" Title="Captain America suit's raised surface pattern?" Tags="|sewing|fabric|material-identification|costume-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-25T18:12:51.940" Score="3" ViewCount="1017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several pieces of model scenery that I originally painted using a spray paint for the base coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to touch up some of the paint, but I can't simply spray them again as the areas are too small and too complicated to mask off, and I don't think that I can reliably color match the paint by by mixing other colors together to apply it by brush. I'm going to try, but I'm looking for a plan B in case I can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to capture some paint from the spray so that I can apply it to the scenery using a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't need to be perfect, just enough to touch up some chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-12-31T18:15:54.757" Title="How do I &quot;capture&quot; spray paint so that I can apply it with a brush to touch up some damaged areas on a model?" Tags="|paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10797" CreationDate="2021-12-25T19:29:08.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you spray the paint into a container, nearly any container will suffice if one aspect is considered. As you force the paint out of the can, some of the propellant will also travel with it. The paint will bounce from the surface, but it will be assisted by the propellant as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a cylindrical container and spray the paint at a downward sideways angle, similar to a spiral staircase. If you have available the application tube often found with lubricating products, you can reduce the back-spatter and achieve better results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, using the application tube will allow you to build a cardboard shield that slides over the tube, covering the opening of the cylinder, providing additional protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic bags of sufficient size will also work but make allowance for exhausting the propellant away from your face and other sensitive areas around you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2021-12-25T19:29:08.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10796" CreationDate="2021-12-25T20:38:48.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to do this and still keep the material flexible.  Here are a couple that lend themselves to low-quantity, low-cost applications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a sandwich of foam rubber, like EVA, between two layers of fabric.  The outer layer of fabric needs to be a little stretchy, and the backing fabric non-stretch.  Use spray adhesive to bond the layers together.  Use a heatable metal template in a press to create the pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a vacuum table to suck the fabric (should be a little stretchy), into a template of the pattern.  Apply a coating to the back of a material that bonds with the fabric but is thick enough to not soak through it, and dries rubbery, like silicone caulk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Like the previous method, suck the fabric into a pattern template on a vacuum table.  Insert pre-cut patterns of foam, like EVA, into the cavities.  Apply fabric glue to the ridges of the pattern and bond a non-stretch backing fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a few other ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For large quantity runs and complex designs, you can invest in creating mating metal dies (expensive).  The fabric is coated on the back with a material like silicone and then pressed in the dies to emboss it, typically with a hydraulic press.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's possible to get the appearance of deep embossing by silk screening with puff ink.  If the color is matched to the fabric and a fuzzy fabric is used, the ink can look like the fabric.  But I'm not aware that you can give the ink a surface texture.  So this would not be a way to replicate something like the Captain America suit, where the fabric texture is very visible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2021-12-29T16:44:44.297" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T16:44:44.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10801" CreationDate="2021-12-26T04:53:19.360" Score="0" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new in this community. Recently, a thought has been bothering me a lot and I haven't able to give myself a convincing answer about the same. Some background over here, I am software engineer who just finished his Masters in Computer Science. I am also a trained classical musician (I play the Indian classical instrument tabla, I learnt the instrument for almost 8 years). As a child, I also gave competitive exams for craft and drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question that is bothering me is that, &amp;quot;Why should one pursue art?&amp;quot; I understand that these arts (literature, painting, music, etc.) are a wonderful way of expressing the human creativity and expression. But as a human being, shouldn't life be pursued for the betterment of the human civilization? Push the boundaries of science? Help humanity? I know the argument over here seems flawed and has many holes in it, but I haven't been able to wrap my brain around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone enlighten me? Or give some direction to my thought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12295" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T16:18:53.987" Title="why pursue art?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2021-12-27T11:32:18.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10800" CreationDate="2021-12-26T16:18:53.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Art can be one of many ways to &amp;quot;pursue the betterment of the human civilization&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think back to the beginnings of human civilization. In cold climates, humans had to stick pieces of fur together to keep them warm, and thus the art of sewing was born. Twigs or straw was woven into baskets to help carrying things. Once humans were able to extract fibres from plants (or animals), they had to make them longer in order to get useful tools like ropes or fishing lines, which created the art of spinning. From this spun yarn they started making clothes and fishing nets, ship sails and many more objects that made life easier and ensured the survival of humans. Add stone masons and carpenters to the mix and humans had houses to shelter themselves from the elements and wild beasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most forms of art originate from these basic crafts. Once you could weave fabric, you could add &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gutenberg.org/files/17370/17370-h/17370-h.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;patterns to the fabric&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.academia.edu/11916994/Tablet_woven_Ribbons_from_the_prehistoric_Salt_mines_at_Hallstatt_Austria_results_of_some_experiments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;or ribbon&lt;/a&gt;). Once you could hollow wood out to make a container from it, you could also &lt;a href=&quot;https://archaeologicalmuseum.jhu.edu/class-projects/providing-for-the-afterlife/kohl-tube-in-the-shape-of-a-palm-column/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carve designs into the tube&lt;/a&gt;. Once you could knot a fishing net, you could miniaturize this net into &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filet_lace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;filet lace&lt;/a&gt;. Even the oldest extant pieces of &lt;a href=&quot;https://archaeology.uiowa.edu/prehistoric-pottery-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;neolithic pottery are decorated&lt;/a&gt;, even though the decoration doesn't have any practical value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humans seem to have always possessed an inherend drive to decorate their surroundings. Whenever there had been a technique or technology to produce a practical object, it soon got improved to make the object more decorative. Inventions like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scienceandindustrymuseum.org.uk/objects-and-stories/jacquard-loom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jaquard weaving loom&lt;/a&gt; gave us the inspiration to code instruction in paper punch cards and read and write digital information for the first computers. The high towers or gothic churches gave rise to modern architecture, which allows us to build sky scrapers today. The first cave drawings developed into life-like oil paintigs, gave the inspiration to photo cameras and are now further developed into &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avatar_(2009_film)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;digital renderings of phantasy planets&lt;/a&gt;. The same technology is also used in medicine to render internal organs of patients before surgeons operate on them. Origami is used to fold solar sails for satelites and space probes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From time to time it is argued that certain old arts or crafts are useless in our modern life and shouldn't be preserved, but you never know when the next great invention builds upon the hundred and thousands years of experience of our ancestral craftsmen (and women).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if an artwork doesn't have an obvious practical use, it still makes our life more beautiful. Imagine living in a world without music, in a house with only white walls, wearing only white clothes, going to work in a white office building, going to a white temple or church without decorations... Your whole life would probably feel extremely uniform and boring, maybe even pointless. A song on the radio, a picture on your livig room or office wall, colorful clothes and sacret images in a church or temple give your life some highlights. They give your brain some distraction from the monotony of life and may increase creativity for your day-to-day work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And traditional arts that may have lost their practical values today can still remind people of past generations and make them feel connected with their ancestors. That may not push the boundaries or sciense, but it's an improvement for the individual people who may otherwise feel lost and meaningless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a personal note: Over the last 2 - 3 years I was increasingly interested in historical arts and crafts. Before that time, I thought that our ancestors were not as clever as we are and had more primitive technology, so everything they did must have been worse than what we do today. Oh boy was I wrong! Our ancestors spend much more time on the creation of a single piece of art or craftmanship and it had to last much longer (like machines and clothes that had to last several years). Therefore our ancestors developed techniques and used materials in certain ways that are much better than our modern materials - if used in the correct way. Our modern technology has led to things like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fast_fashion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fast fashion&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Consumerism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;consumerism&lt;/a&gt; that is detrimental for the environment and most people working in the creation of textiles or electronics. I personally think that a &amp;quot;betterment for the human civilization&amp;quot; would be rethinking our relationship with textiles and re-adopting some historic techniques of our ancestors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2021-12-26T16:18:53.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2021-12-29T18:23:09.900" Score="5" ViewCount="710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recipe booklet I disassembled and put into sheet protectors (I'm a bit of a messy cook at times), and the 3-ring binder I put the sheets in is a bit bulky and prone to popping open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a bookbinding stitch/technique that would be appropriate for 3-ring sheet protectors? (Google was spectacularly unhelpful, as it would return results for the sheets or bookbinding, but not both ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the sheet protectors, in their current binder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pc3M8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pc3M8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A photo of the 3-ring sheet protectors in their current binder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12306" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2021-12-29T19:04:59.793" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T22:43:10.837" Title="Is there a bookbinding technique that will work with sheet protectors?" Tags="|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10803" CreationDate="2021-12-29T22:43:10.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting the pages in sheet protectors creates a lot more bulk and thickness than the original book, so this is just something that needs to be dealt with if you want to use sheet protectors.  The sheet protectors are great for their purpose, but they don't last forever; depending on the material, they can eventually get brittle or split/tear.  So I'd be hesitant to use any kind of permanent binding unless you did something like bind many more sheet protectors than you need, and move pages to another pocket when a sheet protector gets damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few thoughts and ideas to deal with the issues using a non-permanent binding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My first thought would be to stick with looseleaf, since that's what the sheet protectors are designed for.  It is the simplest solution and retains the advantages, like easy replacement and the ability to pop out a recipe for use without having to work from a giant binder.  Some ways to mitigate the problems:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't overstuff a binder (although your picture looks like this may not be your problem).  If everything doesn't easily fit in the binder, look for ways to organize the recipes to subdivide them into several binders.  If there is a limited number of recipes you use regularly, maybe put them in a separate binder that is sized for easy access.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use looseleaf binders with a stronger ring closure so they don't accidentally get pulled open as easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an alternate style of binder that fits looseleaf pages but doesn't pop open in the middle with a pushbutton (but you lose the convenience of easily popping out an arbitrary page).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are individual rings that are hinged in the middle and the ends lock together (punch your own front and back covers and incorporate them in the rings).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a binder with loops (typically plastic), where one end is permanently attached and the other feeds through the pages and then locks to the spine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a binder consisting of front and back covers connected by nylon rods that hold the pages.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a binder with screw posts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have access to a binding machine (they aren't insanely expensive), you can punch additional holes in the sheet protectors and use a wire or spiral binding.  These can be reopened a limited number of times if necessary, or the binding can be removed and replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2021-12-29T22:43:10.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10822" CreationDate="2021-12-31T11:13:36.227" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experience casting fibreglass canoes. When I cast a canoe I first coat the inside of the mold with Gelcoat for a smooth, fibre-free exterior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on casting some little plaster/resin trinkets, that I will mold in silicone. I would like to reinforce these with fibreglass or copper wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I coat the inside of the mold so that I have a smooth, fibre-free exterior? Is there anything else I have overlooked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12310" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T18:04:50.430" Title="Is there an equivalent to Gelcoat for casting plaster?" Tags="|casting|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10797" CreationDate="2021-12-31T18:15:54.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've concluded that spray paint simply dries too fast to make it practical to apply it with a brush. Trying to do it is a good way to ruin your brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2021-12-31T18:15:54.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-01T15:27:53.213" Score="4" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a set of giant sized candy cane decorations for my driveway next Christmas consisting of a white downpipe with a red strip painted around it, and a hanger on it for a lantern. Like you might see on a 1980s Christmas special for a children's cartoon, or outside a life sized gingerbread house. They're going to be about 6 feet long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to have the red stripe as a spiral going around the cane rather than just red rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy\simple way to mark it out or some kind of jig that I can make to mark out the line&amp;gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-09-04T10:27:51.223" LastActivityDate="2023-09-04T10:27:51.223" Title="How do I draw an evenly spaced spiral around a long cylinder?" Tags="|drawing|technique-selection|props|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10807" CreationDate="2022-01-01T20:00:47.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do it with string (one piece twice or two pieces to mark the outline, then paint).  Once you pick the angle and pull the string tight, it will define an even spiral.  But there's an easy, one-step solution that gives you a perfect spiral without needing to paint.  Use a piece of red ribbon the desired width of the stripe and wrap the tube at the desired angle.  As long as the tape isn't stretchy, the starting angle will define a perfect spiral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not going to be handled, you only need to secure the ends.  If you want it more secure, you can tape the ribbon edge.  Or after figuring out the angle you want and the ribbon length you need, leave one end of the ribbon secured, unwind it, and use glue or double-sided tape on the back of the ribbon as you rewind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find red ribbon in the needed width, make your own.  Cut strips of something weatherproof like Tyvek and glue or tape them end to end to create a ribbon of the needed length (just ensure that the ribbon edge is straight), and paint it red, or cut up a disposable red plastic table cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to figure out the angle with a piece of string or strip of paper, mark a starting line on the tube for the edge as a guide, then apply red tape to the tube at that angle.  You can get tapes like duct tape or electrical tape in red.  As long as you apply the tape flat, it will maintain the spiral.  If you somehow stretch it so it comes out uneven, peel up the problem area and reapply it.  If you use something like electrical tape, which is a little stretchy, use a paper strip against the previous edge of the tape as a guide to maintain the spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-01-01T20:19:16.147" LastActivityDate="2022-01-01T20:19:16.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-02T11:47:43.113" Score="0" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to make an Alien Pod as an art project. Normally I would create the basic shape using foam, wood or clay, and then pour the resin over the top and harden it with a UV lamp, leaving the scaffold/structure in place inside a resin shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time I'm looking to make a model that is translucent, so I need to be able to remove the structure that it's built around afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of this can be done easily simply by leaving a hole in the underside and breaking the scaffold up with a knife and pulling it out. But I need to make sure that whatever is actually touching the resin will peel off of it without leaving bits behind. Which rules out things like paper or foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something that I can wrap around the scaffold that will not stick, or which can be easily pulled off, preferably something that can be painted on or which comes in sheet form?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Molding silicone is out, as it drips off before setting, so I just end up with a puddle at the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-01-02T23:30:44.810" LastActivityDate="2022-01-02T23:30:44.810" Title="Creating a scaffold for UV resin coated model that will easily peel off once the resin has hardened?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-02T21:00:33.847" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my project I would like to print small cardstock cards (250-300g/m^2) roughly size of DIN A7. Now it is almost impossible to find paper and printers for that format, so I figured I will use DIN A6 and print two on one and use a cutting board to separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I couldn't find any printers claiming to do borderless DIN A6 - its mostly only photo formats in 10x15cm (which is almost DIN A6) but I can't really find white cardstock/cardboard cards in that format, all paper in that format is geared towards photos and not suitable (I need sturdy cardboard like cards and compromise on print quality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody has tipps or printer recommendations that would allow to print borderless onto DIN A6 at those paper weights? I wonder if any &amp;quot;overprinted&amp;quot; ink that remains in the printer could damage it / smear onto next prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12316" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T06:38:36.517" Title="Borderless printing on DIN A6" Tags="|paper|printing|cardboard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10809" CreationDate="2022-01-02T23:22:12.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As fred_dot_u mentions in a comment, you can use mold release (although if you make the structure out of something porous or absorbent, you may need a lot).  In terms of a non-stick wrap or coating, a couple of readily-available materials work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the project lends itself to wrapping with something in sheet form, use oven parchment paper.  That is impregnated with silicone and is a great non-stick surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another wrapping that not much sticks to is HDPE, which is a common material for plastic bags (it will be printed on the bag or identified on the retail container).  You might want to test a spot to confirm that your resin peels off easily.  Cut the seams off the bag to create sheets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want something to apply to the surface, silicone caulk (100% silicone, not siliconized caulk), is good.  You can smear a thin layer with your finger, or thin the caulk to paint consistency and paint it on.  You can thin it with a number of solvents, like paint thinner or xylene, but limonene works even better (pure limonene, not a cleaner that contains it).  If you go the thin and paint route, give it at least several days for the solvent to evaporate out (until you can no longer smell it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another material that not much sticks to is wax.  Melt a low temperature wax and brush it on.  If any wax bits stick to the finished resin, they are easily removed.  If the item will fit in a freezer, that will make the wax brittle and easy to wipe off.  Otherwise, blow a heat gun into the cavity (low enough temperature setting so as not to scorch the resin), melt the wax, and wipe it out with something absorbent.  Vaseline is often used for this purpose, but it can be hard to clean off for an application like this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-01-02T23:22:12.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10813" CreationDate="2022-01-03T00:45:48.420" Score="4" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for ways to create razor sharp edges of watercolor paintings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I provided an exeample that I found online from a paper manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was wondering how on earth they managed to stop the watercolor ink from flowing into the edge of the papier in such a straight line in the margins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ordinary painters' tape would cover the margin but the ink would surely creep underneath it making the edge less sharp right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can one achieve such a razor sharp white margin, on rough paper when using watercolors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0aP8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0aP8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastEditorUserId="12317" LastEditDate="2022-01-03T03:03:37.167" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T07:05:05.587" Title="How to achieve sharp straight white margins on rough watercolor paintings?" Tags="|paper|watercolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10812" CreationDate="2022-01-03T03:36:30.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, it's likely due to the method used to fasten the paper and prevent crumpling once it gets wet. This is done by using &lt;strong&gt;water-activated tape&lt;/strong&gt; (a.k.a. gum paper tape and stretching tape).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The paper is moistened (causing it to stretch), laid on a surface, and then taped along the edges. Once dried, the paper can be painted on without causing it to warp, since it has already assumed its maximum stretch. Once the artwork has dried, the tape can (usually) be removed without damaging the paper (sometimes removing the top layer of the paper, depending on the type and quality of both components), and offers very sharp edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility (more plausible in case of the image you posted) is the use of &lt;strong&gt;masking fluid&lt;/strong&gt;. This is often a transparent medium that can be applied like paint to the paper, and will prevent any water(colour) from going there. Afterwards, it can be removed relatively easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T03:36:30.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10810" CreationDate="2022-01-03T06:38:36.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to print 2 cards on DIN A6 and cut the excess off, why don't you print even more cards on A4 and then cut them out? A4 is the standard paper format and there are &lt;em&gt;tons&lt;/em&gt; of different printers that can print borderless A4 and &lt;em&gt;tons&lt;/em&gt; of papers and cardstock in A4 with different weights, colors, finishes and other properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't even need to print borderless A4, if you're OK with losing some paper as cutoff. Evenly space your motifs on the available paper and then add cut markers &lt;strong&gt;outside of the actual motif&lt;/strong&gt; to help you cut every card to precisely the same size without leaving any outlines on the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some very good tutorials available for designing business cards, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.castleprint.co.uk/design-business-card/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one that explains the cut markers&lt;/a&gt; I mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q63EA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q63EA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-01-03T06:38:36.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-03T19:03:36.360" Score="2" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make a miniature that is approximately 6x5&amp;quot;, with a roof covered in wooden shingles. The body of the model will be PU foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any suggestions for materials or techniques that I could use to make the roof that do not involve cutting out individual shingles, which would be extremely time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-03T23:11:04.857" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T14:41:25.223" Title="A simple way to create the appearance of wooden roof shingles?" Tags="|material-selection|model-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10816" CreationDate="2022-01-04T05:52:57.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way to make miniature shingles I know of is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a thin piece of cardboard. The usual thickness of cereal boxes is best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a strip of this cardboard as wide a single row of shingles + 1/3 extra width.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put vertical cuts into the strip at regular intervals, cutting about 2/3 of the width. It will look more natural if the cuts aren't perfectly perpendicular or spaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue the strips of shingles onto the roof, overlapping each row by 1/3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to give your shingles a more random or weathered appearance, here are some extra steps to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place all your prepared strips of cardboard into a container with a handful of pebbles or small stones and shake it for a while. That introduces random bends and dents and damage to make it look more weathered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take each strip and slightly bend each odd shingle up and each even one down. Then take your scissors and cut a thin sliver from the entire upper row of shingles and bend them back straight. That gives it a very natural and hand-made look. &lt;em&gt;I saw this trick in a YouTube video but I don't remember who created the video.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut random corners of individual shingles, cut some shingles in half or cut some away completely. This gives it a very old and damaged look.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2022-01-04T14:41:25.223" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T14:41:25.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10465" CreationDate="2022-01-05T09:11:56.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, it does.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, as fixer1234 mentions in the comments, softer pencils relatively contain more graphite (hence they can produce darker tones). As relatively more graphite is deposited into the texture of paper, it will be easier and more visible (i.e. obvious) if it gets smudged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly - and this is mostly theoretical and aligned with your own hypothesis - a more superficial abrasion will cause the graphite particles to be deposited more loosely onto the paper, which will similarly make it more susceptible to smudging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-05T09:17:59.087" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T09:17:59.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10821" CreationDate="2022-01-05T14:04:26.883" Score="2" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to cast an indoor kitchen countertop out of concrete including a concrete sink.&#xA;Something like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JrV2r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JrV2r.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the hole is for a small cooktop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to use glass fibre mesh for strength, superplasticizer and additives improving water resistance in my concrete mix, however since it is going to have very frequent direct contact with water, I want to seal the surface as well. The problem is that where I live(Klaipėda, Lithuania) I struggle finding any products for this whatsoever. I can easily get PU based clearcoat and silicone based &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.domino.com.ge/en/products-en/building-materials-en/paints-and-varnishes-en/emulsion-paints-en/priming-eskaro-aquastop-prof-1-l/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydro-isolation primer like this one&lt;/a&gt; but none of them are designed to specifically seal concrete countertops from water damage so I am hesitant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen advise to use PVA type 3 wood glue for sealing concrete and my thinking is that since it's water soluble before curing, I can dilute it a lot for first few layers so it gets absorbed by the concrete as much as possible and then use a few increasingly concentrated layers so it bonds really well with the concreate and not only coats the surface. So my thinking is that it should be a pretty good solution and even better than thicker PU based clearcoat that might only form a layer at the surface that could wear off easily. I think I could also use hydro-isolation primer in the same way, but I have not heard of people doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe someone with more experience could advice - is using PVA for this a good idea, or would I be better off using the silicone hydro-isolation primer? Or am I maybe missing something entirely and there are better options I could get my hands on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T18:28:54.817" Title="Is water resistant PVA (type 3) a good option for sealing indoor kitchen concrete countertop with a sink?" Tags="|casting|concrete|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10820" CreationDate="2022-01-05T17:09:46.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no.  Countertops near a sink often have water puddles sitting on them for awhile, and a sink is submerged in water.  You really need a surface that is at least waterproof, not just water resistant.  Even better than waterproof is something rated as submersible.  Water resistant PVA won't be suitable long term, and would make it nearly impossible to add a proper coating later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is the characteristics of the surface.  A kitchen countertop will get physical wear and tear, so you need a surface that is hard and won't easily scratch or abrade (PVA is soft).  It will also be exposed to a variety of water-based and oil-based materials that could stain or discolor it (a problem for PVA), and bacteria and other micro-organisms that can transfer to food.  A nearby kitchen window could be a source of UV that could yellow or damage a surface coating over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of work will go into making this, and if it isn't done right, it will be an ongoing headache.  It may start to look unattractive, and would be a mess to maintain or replace.  I wouldn't make this out of concrete if you can't get the right materials to do the project properly.  I haven't tackled this personally, so can't recommend the best sealant/surface coating.  But there are a lot of online videos covering this, and products specifically designed for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-01-05T18:28:54.817" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T18:28:54.817" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10805" CreationDate="2022-01-05T18:04:50.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gelcoating the mold works with fiberglass because the resin bonds with the gelcoat.  Plaster won't (the gelcoat layer will just be a smaller mold).  There are a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reinforcing material&lt;/strong&gt;: Fiberglass cloth won't be a good material for plaster because the plaster won't penetrate the cloth like resin does.  You could probably use fiberglass wool, but coarse, open-weave fabric, like burlap or gauze, or drywall repair mesh, will work better and is easier to use.  With plaster, you will avoid &amp;quot;wild&amp;quot; fibers showing on the surface if you first put down a surface coating of plaster, then add plaster-soaked fabric or embed mesh in an additional plaster layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Surface coating&lt;/strong&gt;: If the gelcoat is also to provide a glossy resin surface, you can accomplish that after the plaster has fully hardened (many days so there is low residual moisture in the plaster).  You can brush, spray, or dip the finished piece in any suitable finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casting material&lt;/strong&gt;: If a matte, resin-looking surface will work, you can use a &amp;quot;polymer-modified&amp;quot; plaster and avoid the need for coating it.  There are a few off-the-shelf casting materials, like Jesmonite, that mix plaster with acrylic polymer liquid instead of water.  The result is much stronger than plaster, and looks like a resin casting (although matte instead of glossy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-01-05T18:04:50.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-06T21:20:00.603" Score="3" ViewCount="920" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any recommended ways to remove acrylic model paint from a PET or PLA model kit that has not been varnished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, to allow old kits to be stripped down and repainted once your skill level has improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-01-07T17:30:04.327" Title="Methods for removing acrylic paint from PET or PLA model kits?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10824" CreationDate="2022-01-07T03:42:07.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll assume you did a good job of preparing the surface so the paint is well-bonded, and the old paint has long since fully hardened.  So techniques for removing recently-dried paint aren't likely to have much effect.  You've also probably weighed just painting over the old paint and that wouldn't be satisfactory.  To strip the paint, you'll need something that attacks dried acrylic paint but not PET or PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we stick with common, readily available materials, here are five that work pretty well to remove dried acrylic paint from non-porous surfaces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lacquer thinner.&lt;/strong&gt;  Some of the common ingredients in lacquer thinner are hazardous, and some lacquer thinners have been reformulated with greener, safer ingredients.  Unless you have some chemistry knowledge, it can be tough to know how a particular lacquer thinner product will behave with these materials.  At least PLA is attacked by some of the ingredients commonly found in lacquer thinner.  So I would probably just avoid this option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acetone.&lt;/strong&gt;  PLA is attacked by acetone.  PET would tolerate the amount of exposure needed for cleaning, especially at room temperature (it is rated as being poor for long-term exposure).  If you can easily and reliably identify which pieces are PET, acetone would probably be the fastest cleaner, but it's the least safe.  There are other listed solvents that carry little or no risk for the model and are effective, so I would eliminate acetone, also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Household (sudsing) ammonia.&lt;/strong&gt;  This doesn't so much dissolve acrylic paint as break down the film.  The fumes require good ventilation and you need to be careful what tools you use with it (e.g., if you brush it on, it isn't friendly to any wood, brass, or aluminum that may be brush components).  PLA is supposedly safe at room temperature, but heated ammonia can encourage it to breakdown.  PET is rated poor with ammonia in concentrations greater than double the typical household product.  Bottom line: you could probably get away without damage from cleaning either plastic with it, but it wouldn't be my first choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Denatured alcohol.&lt;/strong&gt;  This is a mix of ethanol and methanol with no water dilution as with rubbing alcohol.  You can find it in the paint department.  It is a pretty good solvent for dried acrylic paint.  PET is impervious, and PLA nearly so to the alcohol (a test of alcohol in a PLA bottle resulted in some white discoloration after 16 weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some of the substances that can be added to denature it attack PLA.  The denaturant is at a low concentration, but your model is likely to be soaking in it for awhile.  If you are going to use this solvent on PLA, you might want to soak a scrap piece in it for several hours to see if it is affected by that brand.  Also be aware that methanol is poisonous and pretty flammable, and burns with a flame that is nearly invisible in sunlight so it could take longer to realize there's a fire if it ignites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Isopropyl alcohol&lt;/strong&gt; (the higher the concentration the better, preferably 91% or higher; you may need to shop around pharmacies to find it at those concentrations, or order it online).  This isn't quite as effective as denatured alcohol, but it will work, and it is safe for both PET and PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My choice would be either type of alcohol (subject to the precautions mentioned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general method is to soak the item in the alcohol and check it periodically (start with every 15 minutes or so, and judge by progress).  If you left it in the alcohol long enough, you could probably wipe the paint off.  But the paint will soften and you can speed the process by removing paint as it does.  Use a plastic scraper to push off softened paint, and a soft toothbrush or something similar to scrub paint out of crevices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-01-07T03:42:07.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10824" CreationDate="2022-01-07T17:30:04.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of products commonly recommended for stripping miniatures by mini painters of various experience levels; as with any solvent, each of these should be tested on a spare piece of the same material or a portion of the model that won't be visible to ensure they won't affect the underlying plastics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The most commonly recommended solvent is&lt;/strong&gt; a cleaner called &lt;strong&gt;Simple Green&lt;/strong&gt; (in the US) &lt;strong&gt;or Biostrip&lt;/strong&gt; (in the UK). From &lt;a href=&quot;https://ageofminiatures.com/how-to-strip-miniatures/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Age of Miniatures&lt;/a&gt;, these are described as &amp;quot;very gentle on the miniature, because it is water based. The chemical is not as aggressive – just stick your miniature into it, get it out an hour later and finally brush all the paint off.&amp;quot; These are the ones I've seen most frequently referenced on various mini painting sites and forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another that should be safe on most plastics is isopropyl alcohol&lt;/strong&gt;. Higher concentrations will work better; I've had good experience removing paints and sealants from resin pieces using 91% isopropyl, and have heard from others that the more commonly available (lower) concentrations are considerably less effective. In the US, at least, 91% isopropyl is readily available in most areas that sell first aid supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most other solvents I've seen referenced carry a risk of dissolving the underlying model and/or carrying health risks to the user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2022-01-07T17:30:04.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10792" CreationDate="2022-01-09T12:01:35.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, in a local thrift store, I found a Finnish leather-bound bible from 1901 - with the illustrations by Gustave Doré - so was naturally curious to know the answer as well, and did some digging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially with leather books, it's important to &lt;strong&gt;keep it away from moisture and (direct) sunlight&lt;/strong&gt; (this turns out to be the mantra of conserving anything art-related :). An atmospherically stable environment is desirable to prevent the leather (and the rest of the materials of the book) from shrinking and expanding.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Dusting should be done carefully with a dry cloth, a feather duster, or &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a hairbrush sold as baby’s first&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.²&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention this in your post, but I'll repeat it for the sake of completeness: when handling the book, preferably &lt;strong&gt;wash your hands&lt;/strong&gt; to get rid of the most aggressive contaminants. Nevertheless, &lt;strong&gt;it's desirable to use bare hands&lt;/strong&gt;, as the natural oils of our skin will actually benefit the leather and improve proper handling.²&lt;sup&gt;,&lt;/sup&gt;⁴&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Covering leather in plastic to protect it is discouraged, as it will hinder the breathing of the leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Always avoid solvents and abrasives&lt;/strong&gt; when working [with] leather.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;²&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Be extremely careful and skeptical about using &amp;quot;DIY&amp;quot; products&lt;/strong&gt; that are recommended by people without any related professional knowledge. What may result in an appealing appearance now may end up ruining the leather (e.g. Vaseline or glass cleaning products, and even saddle soap might not be as benevolent as some make it out to be ¹&lt;sup&gt;,&lt;/sup&gt;³).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following general rules on book-handling are even more important for leather-bound tomes: &lt;strong&gt;don't stack them too loosely or too tightly&lt;/strong&gt;, as the first will cause the books to sag which might fatigue or tear hinges, and the latter will put strain on the hinges.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When taking a book off a shelf, &lt;strong&gt;never pull it by the top of the spine&lt;/strong&gt;, but find a way to grab it in the middle.⁴&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the leather of your book ever becomes brittle or cracked, or starts to suffer from red rot, you can use something called &lt;em&gt;Cellugel&lt;/em&gt;, which will stabilize the leather without discolouring it. This product has been recommended to the author of the article on &lt;em&gt;biblio.com&lt;/em&gt; by a conservationist,² and is mentioned by another author³ as well.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Another product with similar effect suggested by the latter author³ is 'Restoration Leather Conditioner', and according to the author is used by &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;such institutions as the British Museum and the Library of Congress&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. &lt;strong&gt;The use of 'Restoration Leather Conditioner' is recommended on a yearly basis by another author⁴ to keep the leather in good condition&lt;/strong&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidolonhouse.com/chronicles/how-to-leather-conditioning-for-fine-bindings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; for a guide). Do note that at this point where the leather and binding are new it might not be necessary at all to treat the leather yearly. I suggest consulting a conservator.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I will not go much deeper into treating damaged leather or red rot here, because hopefully it will be very long until your book suffers that fate. Apart from the fact that those cases should be consulted and probably treated by professionals, it might be an interesting topic for another Q&amp;amp;A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ahls.us/care.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ahls.us/care.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Written by a now retired restorer of (leather bound) books&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.biblio.com/book-collecting/care-preservation/leather-books/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.biblio.com/book-collecting/care-preservation/leather-books/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Written by the authors of '&lt;em&gt;The Care and Feeding of Books Old and New: A Simple Repair Manual for Book Lovers&lt;/em&gt;', Bern Marcowitz and Margot Rosenberg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bookthink.com/0071/71alt.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bookthink.com/0071/71alt.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Written by the columnist on book repair for &lt;em&gt;BookThink.com&lt;/em&gt; Gail Altman. I cannot find any professional information on this author, however.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eidolonhouse.com/chronicles/dos-donts-care-for-leather-bound-books&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://eidolonhouse.com/chronicles/dos-donts-care-for-leather-bound-books&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;By Joseph Adams, &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidolonhouse.com/curriculumvitae/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;who&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;has over 19 years of book binding and restoration experience&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-09T12:14:56.617" LastActivityDate="2022-01-09T12:14:56.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-10T15:37:34.783" Score="4" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01LVZ2OZU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this sharpening stone&lt;/a&gt; and soaked it in water for an hour before using it on some fairly dull pocket knives. I have never sharpened a knife like this before, and only have watched a bunch of Youtube videos to learn how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got my blade somewhere around a 15~20 degree angle as far as I can tell, and am applying approx 8lbs of pressure, mostly when pulling back (and just relax when moving the knife forward across the stone). In the videos the stone just sort of sits there and maybe a fine grey/silver/metal grit/dust starts to appear on the stone's surface. This is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; what is happening for me. The blade of the knife is quickly accumulating a large amount of, very wet, stone dust build-up on it (the surface of the stone is also accumulating this dust/paste). I don't see this happening in any of the videos online and don't see anyone talking about this anywhere... I sharpened for maybe 30 minutes and the knife was... kind of sharp, but definitely not razor sharp. I feel like perhaps this dust is a symptom of something I'm doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the knife I'm trying to sharpen:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAPRs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAPRs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My knife&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T13:40:18.233" Title="Why is my sharpening stone producing a lot of dust/paste or crumbling?" Tags="|cutting|tool-modification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-10T19:02:37.870" Score="2" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a small paperweight liquid toy, and I have no idea which type of paint to use to paint the buoyant object inside in order for it to not lose its colours while moving inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3REyx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3REyx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;toy boat&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use water based paint on the boat object (the same paint that is used to paint on paper), would it fade away or wash out because it is moving inside the oil and water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12349" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-03-20T20:21:39.267" LastActivityDate="2022-03-20T21:16:36.610" Title="Does water colour paint on miniatures wash out a when it is freely moving inside water or oil?" Tags="|paint|watercolor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10828" CreationDate="2022-01-11T03:04:23.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have experience with the product you are using (I mean, the stone). For kitchen knives, I use a much coarser stone, with a satisfying level of success. I never noticed any of the wet dust problem you mention. I also get the job done in under one minute (no perfection required in my case, just the good ability to cut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my 2 cents would be along the lines of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is normal for that wet dust to be there (unlikely IMO);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you have an under-quality product. Maybe a scam, maybe just an unlucky failure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can give it a try with another (kind of) stone, and compare the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T03:04:23.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10828" CreationDate="2022-01-11T06:06:33.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This knife needs either a different angle for sharpening or you'll have to grind the ridge right at the sharp edge away. Also, you have a rather coarse grinding stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cross-section of the blade looks something like this: (over exaggerated)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uyFZe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uyFZe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert in knife making, but I think it's formed this way to keep the edge sharp for longer and make it resilient against nicks. If you grind at a 20° angle, you only grind the ridge down, but the actual cutting edge is not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should practice blade sharpening on an old kitchen knife that has a triangular cross section. Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wodZS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wodZS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coarse side (labeled &amp;quot;400&amp;quot; on your stone) is to &lt;strong&gt;grind the blade down&lt;/strong&gt; to the right angle and to remove big nicks. Looking at the blade under a magnifier after grinding, you'll see many fine scratches along the direction you ground. The fine side (labeled &amp;quot;1000&amp;quot; on your stone) is to &lt;strong&gt;remove small nicks and scratches&lt;/strong&gt; (from coarse grinding) on the blade. To actually polish the blade to razor sharpness you'll need a much finer grinding stone. The standard for finer stones seems to be 3000 and 8000 grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finer your stone, the less stone dust I would expect. Since 400 is very coarse for a grinding stone, I'm not surprised you see a lot of stone dust while grinding the ridged blade. The ridge knocks the fine sand particles the stone is comprised of   loose. You should see less stone dust when sharpening a blade with a triangular cross-section and when using less force, but the grinding will take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-01-11T06:06:33.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-11T16:23:41.773" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;My edges tend to look sorta weird and I suspect it's because I'm not moving my work to the front for purls and back for knits, on the first stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I already have one stitch on my needle it's easy to move the yarn to the front of back, but before that (for the first stitch)... there's no yarn on my right-hand needle, so I can't move the yarn to the front or back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can tell on my left hand needle, that depending on if my last stitch was a purl or knit, the yarn is pointing back or front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone has a step by step with pictures link, please provide it. Or a video, although I prefer pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12356" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-11T16:39:33.710" LastActivityDate="2023-04-25T20:04:45.200" Title="How do I move my yarn to the front or back for the first stitch of a row?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10835" CreationDate="2022-01-11T17:03:50.047" Score="6" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often find myself hand sewing small seams or buttons, repairing a garment or embroidering something using standard hand sewing needles. After about 8 hours of active use, the needles start to become harder and harder to push through the fabric and they take on a dull, black color. I assume this is corrosion due to the natural sweat and acid on my hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of some of my needles. The ones on the bottom are (mostly) unused, the ones on the top are used for a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUn57.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gUn57.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;9 hand sewing needles lying horizontally; 4 needles with a silver shine on the bottom, 5 needles of a dull black color on the top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is not that the tips of the needles are blunt, but the surface seems to become less smooth and has a harder time gliding through the fabric. Sometimes I hear the needle stopping in the fabric for a fraction of a second before going in further. Sewing with these needles gets increasingly frustrating until I realize what's going on and switch to a new one. New needles don't cost a fortune, but I find it frustrating how quick they become unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to restore a used needle to it's former smooth surface? Or is there a way I can treat a brand new needle to prolong the lifetime of it's smooth finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T08:06:02.193" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T08:06:02.193" Title="Is there a way to &quot;revive&quot; or protect hand sewing needles from corrosion?" Tags="|sewing|preservation|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-11T21:07:44.200" Score="4" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've read that the slipknot is considered the first stitch of a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the slipknot a knit or a purl?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a knit, then how does one start with a purl?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to do long-tail casts for knits and for purls, but the first stitch (the slipknot) confuses me in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12356" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T08:26:48.100" LastActivityDate="2023-04-23T14:24:34.110" Title="How do I make my first cast on stitch a purl stitch?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10833" CreationDate="2022-01-11T21:32:31.583" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tl;dr: Your best option may be to buy gold plated or stainless steel needles.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyday needles are nickel plated (says &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_needle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; and other sources).  Nickel corrodes in contact with sweat, worse for some people than others because some people have saltier sweat.  Working in a cool room with freshly (frequently) rinsed hands should help, but this will only slow the corrosion down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gold won't corrode, and at a quick look, &lt;em&gt;gold plated needles&lt;/em&gt; are only slightly more expensive (mainly because of the existence of cheap brands that don't make gold-plated ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;em&gt;stainless steel needles&lt;/em&gt; are even marketed as hypoallergenic (nickel-free), and similarly seem to cost only a little more than the normal nickel-plated carbon steel, though it's hard to get a direct comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Barrier gloves&lt;/em&gt; (e.g. latex, nitrile) are likely to be a pain when you need dexterity, but would otherwise be a solution.  Only the tips of the finger(s) and thumb(s) that regularly contact the needle need to be covered; finger cots are available or just use the finger cut off disposable gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be possible to remove the corrosion.  I have removed a different type of corrosion from (repurposed) sewing needles using Brasso &lt;em&gt;metal polish&lt;/em&gt;, rinsed afterwards with denatured alcohol and dried with paper towel.  Steel wool will take it off but will also remove the nickel plating over time.  Both of these approaches are perhaps a little tedious anyway, with each needle needing wiping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely dipping process for cleaning would be a &lt;em&gt;jewellery cleaner&lt;/em&gt; solution that includes ammonia.  You can buy this or make it if you already have household ammonia. It may have adverse effects on the needles but would be worth a try. I might have some but don't hand sew enough to corrode needles so can't test for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2022-01-12T08:52:22.780" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T08:52:22.780" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10781" CreationDate="2022-01-12T02:45:21.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you pull your clay into the cylinder you want, scrape off the excess moisture/slip on the outside of the cylinder with a rib. Apply the sodium silicate solution with a paintbrush (to your turning cylinder) where you want the crackles. The heavier the application the larger the crackles (1 coat = fine crackles, etc.) Then dry the sodium silicate on the outside of the cylinder with a heat gun, hairdryer, or torch while turning until dry to the touch. Then push out/stretch the clay from the inside of the cylinder to form your piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your crackles are tiny, you might try drying it a little bit more before stretching again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12360" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T02:45:21.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-13T03:12:06.503" Score="1" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm restoring an old fan that used a horseshoe-shaped steel pipe for the base, and the ends of this pipe are closed of with two caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caps are made of a transparent plastic, their shape reminding of a &amp;quot;mushroom&amp;quot;, like this piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2J7vV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2J7vV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This piece is hollow and inside there's another spherical cap made of polished chrome steel.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So when it's fitted in the pipe you can see a transparent spherical cap and inside it the chrome spherical cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that the plastic cap is broken and damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From photo analysis I determined that the plastic cap can be cut from a 27 mm diameter sphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there's the issue: I don't know where to get a transparent, plastic hollow sphere 27 mm in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hollow sphere 25.4 mm (1 inch) in diameter would also work, I'd only have to cut a spherical cap with a slightly larger solid angle. It wouldn't be identical, but close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that I can't find anything or anyone that sells this.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've only found some hollow transparent spheres used for Christmas decorations, but none 1 inch in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out how could I make one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12368" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T08:23:48.093" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T08:42:12.153" Title="How can I make hollow transparent spheres between 25 and 29 mm diameter?" Tags="|plastic|material-sourcing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10837" CreationDate="2022-01-13T06:55:02.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you only lacked the right search term. I found this by searching for &amp;quot;transparent internal pvc ball cap&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJq7vm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJq7vm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It fits inside a PVC pipe, which has an inside diameter of 1-1/4&amp;quot;. The only manufacturer I could find is Formufit. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://formufit.com/products/1-1-4-in-furniture-grade-pvc-internal-ball-end-cap?variant=38113744027797&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their web shop&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;I am in no way affiliated with this manufacturer or shop&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like it could be a standardized product, designed to fit standardized PVC pipes. So maybe you could find it in different web shops or in your local home construction store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &lt;strong&gt;dome lenses&lt;/strong&gt; that might fit and if you're ok with the cap being metal instead of transparent plastic, you could have a look at &lt;strong&gt;hand rail end caps&lt;/strong&gt; and find a lot of different designs and sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, consider 3D printing a cap with a &lt;strong&gt;resin printer&lt;/strong&gt; using the smallest available layer thickness. The resolution of these printers is enough to create a transparent object with only a slightly matte surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T08:42:12.153" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T08:42:12.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10869" CreationDate="2022-01-13T11:20:46.177" Score="2" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a statue (Yes Man from Fallout: New Vegas, if you're curious :3) and I was looking to cut it to add electrical internals.&#xA;What is the best method of cutting and re-attaching pieces of polyresin?  (All I know about the actual composition is that &lt;a href=&quot;https://gear.bethesda.net/products/new-vegas-yes-man-statue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this retail link&lt;/a&gt; describes it as &amp;quot;polyresin&amp;quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand tools are much preferred.  Currently I was thinking of something such as a wire-saw and super glue, but I'm not sure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12371" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-11T19:17:07.650" LastActivityDate="2022-10-11T19:17:07.650" Title="Cutting and reattaching sections of a polyresin figure" Tags="|adhesives|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-13T21:21:52.190" Score="8" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instruction videos from most airbrush manufacturers always show the dual-action gravity-fed airbrush being used with the tops firmly attached to their paint reservoirs, but many artists choose to run their airbrush with the reservoir open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an artistic or a practical reason for this (for example, being able to see the paint levels), or is it simply because it looks more interesting on the videos?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RF_4tgCR1Ng&amp;amp;t=209s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T19:15:28.803" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T19:15:28.803" Title="Why do some artists leave the top off of their airbrush reservoir when painting?" Tags="|airbrush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10840" CreationDate="2022-01-14T12:28:26.247" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely because it makes it &lt;strong&gt;easier to see the consistency&lt;/strong&gt; of the paint and &lt;strong&gt;how much is left&lt;/strong&gt;, and makes working with the airbrush a little quicker: not only because &lt;strong&gt;you don't have to fiddle with the lid&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;you also won't have to clean it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In some cases or situations &lt;strong&gt;it can improve the flow&lt;/strong&gt; of the paint when the hole in the lid has insufficient airflow (or is simply clogged) and temporary vacuums occur.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I doubt it is because it looks more interesting in videos, although allowing the viewer to see the colour under different lighting conditions could definitely play a role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons to keep the lid on include preventing spills and maybe keeping your paint clean when working in a dusty environment.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have also read about users keeping them on so they can tilt their brushes every now and then to improve the flow of the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T12:28:26.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-15T11:39:21.500" Score="4" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;When airbrushing a full size cosplay prop of a magic sword that is gradated from near black in the middle (centerline of the sword) to near pure white at the edge (Blade of the sword), with blue and purple tones in between, what is the best order to lay down the paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example should I put down a white base coat, and then apply the lighter tones first, before finishing up with the darkest ones. Or should I put down a black base coast and then  apply the lighter tones until I get to the white edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or any other order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a picture available, but imagine a regular sword that's just been taken out of a blacksmith's forge and is white hot at the edges. But in blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-01-16T17:25:19.383" Title="Painting order when creating a &quot;glowing edge&quot; on a magic sword prop, using an airbrush" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-15T17:33:17.220" Score="5" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Curious about this odd &amp;quot;offset&amp;quot; stitch on my sewing machine, does it have a name? When would it be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's under the &amp;quot;stretch&amp;quot; heading, so I gather it would be used on stretchy fabrics, but I haven't been able to find any info about it in the manual or on stitch explainers online.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYUTv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYUTv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image showing offset stitch image, labeled I on the machine&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12381" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T22:06:35.730" Title="What is this stitch option on my Euro Pro Deluxe Denim &amp; Silk" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-16T17:20:17.633" Score="5" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/10549/how-can-i-seal-a-photograph-inside-a-block-of-resin&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, I suddenly wondered if there is a type of ink that would dissolve slightly as the epoxy resin sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say that a text gets printed on a sheet of white opaque acrylate, and, like in the linked question, gets cast in a block of resin, is there a kind of ink that would slowly lose its bond with the acrylate sheet as the resin gets cast and hardens, so it would appear as if the text is permanently evaporating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T13:46:24.113" Title="Is there a type of ink that dissolves in epoxy resin?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|ink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10856" CreationDate="2022-01-16T17:20:39.477" Score="3" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an oil painting - done on oil painting paper - which I would like to mount onto wood (plywood or solid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I achieve an archival bound of paper to wood?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm especially interested in the kind of adhesive to use - does it depend on the paint medium (i.e. do I have to use a different adhesive for acrylic) and do I need to prepare the wood in a special way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2022-01-27T15:57:09.547" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T22:17:06.360" Title="How can I mount a painting paper onto wood?" Tags="|painting|adhesives|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10842" CreationDate="2022-01-16T17:25:19.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with airbrush, but the general advice is to either start with the lightest color and work your way through to the darkest one, or to start with a middle tone and add highlights and darker areas later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem is that most light colors cannot completely cover a dark color in a single layer. If you base coat the sword in black and then paint the edge pure white, you might need several coats to achieve the amount of saturation you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A black base coat is most often used for objects with a structure you want to highlight. It's easier to add the shadows first before drybrushing the highlights than to first paint the highlights and then try adding the shadows without painting all over them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, light colors reflect more light than dark ones. So if you wanted to add some magic glow to the sword, you should base coat the sword white and add a transparent layer of whatever &amp;quot;magic&amp;quot; color you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a nonmagic sword I would probably base coat the entire blade in metallic and then add highlights and shadows or if you don't want metallic, base coat the edge in white and the center in black, before blending and adding more colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-01-16T17:25:19.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10844" CreationDate="2022-01-18T07:02:44.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 questions here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there an ink that's soluble in epoxy? Yes, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10848/6316&quot;&gt;Chris H's answer&lt;/a&gt; for more details&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you cast a print in epoxy and make it dissolve &lt;em&gt;just the right amount&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;so it would appear as if the text is permanently evaporating?&amp;quot; I think you must fake it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy has - depending on the chemical composition - vastly different hardening times (from 5 minutes to several days) and consistencies (from water-like to putty). As it hardens, it produces heat, which produces movement in the still liquid resin. The result can be seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/6364/6316&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; where a faux tortoise shell turned out to harden in one solid color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to all that the fact that printed text usually uses as little ink as possible, so printing enough ink to get the desired effect might need several passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get everything right, you'll need the right kind of epoxy that lifts enough ink from the underground without diluting it into invisibility, you'll want to control the ambient temperature to get the resin to set right and you'll need to shield the cast from vibrations and other influences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly think it'll be easier to fake the effect by &lt;strong&gt;injecting tinted epoxy in the desired shape with a syringe&lt;/strong&gt;. This technique is well-known and used to create veil-like effects. You can also dip the tip of a toothpick into tinted epoxy and draw a veil through the clear cast. One example of it can be seen in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/F-DeUXlwKPQ?t=574&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;, but there are many more out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you work with very liquid epoxy, you need to wait until it becomes viscous, or the veil may disappear again. Another YouTube video that explores this effect is &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/gPBuA3nd1u0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. However, to squeeze epoxy through a syringe it must be very liquid. My advice is to either use 2 different epoxies (honey viscosity for the cast and very liquid for the ink) or letting the transparent cast become viscous for a while and then mixing a fresh batch of tinted epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T14:58:07.850" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T14:58:07.850" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10844" CreationDate="2022-01-18T13:15:02.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried with some pens.  I don't have casting epoxy, only slow epoxy glue (Araldite precision), but it's enough to demonstrate a problem or two within a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A water-based overhead projector pen (Guilbert/Niceday red) was untouched by the epoxy (&amp;quot;W&amp;quot; in the photo).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A solvent-based permanent overhead projector pen (Stabilo OHPen universal, also red) that is definitely alcohol-soluble, reacted with the epoxy and turned yellow (&amp;quot;O&amp;quot;).  Not evenly though - overlap in the strokes still shows red at the moment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Sharpie (magenta) faded a lot, and really shows where the strokes overlapped (I went over a few times to get more ink down).  I don't know if the fading is due to reacting or dissolving, but there's no dissolved effect visible (&amp;quot;S&amp;quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top row is after a few hours under epoxy.  The bottom row is a comparison with no epoxy.  The substrate is clear PET (grabbed from the recycling bin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuW1I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuW1I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test of epoxy vs. pens&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further test in work with a green OHP pen and acrylic resin produced a tiny bit of diffusion, but nothing useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think you've got a couple of issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;getting down enough pigment to be visible even after dissolving&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chemical reactions between the inks and the epoxy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2022-01-25T13:46:24.113" LastActivityDate="2022-01-25T13:46:24.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-22T15:26:54.613" Score="7" ViewCount="924" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an international standard for brushes that use animal hair bristles that shows them to be cruelty free?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example that the animals were raised and slaughtered under humane conditions, or that the bristles were harvested from animals without them first having been killed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am concerned about buying brushes that come from overseas fur farms where the animals are mistreated, or where the pelts are a byproduct of an animal based industry with poor standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2022-01-23T07:40:53.113" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T22:48:21.390" Title="Is there an international standard for cruelty free natural brush bristles?" Tags="|paint-brushes|material-sourcing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-22T18:37:13.093" Score="2" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.embroidery.com/Bernina-Deco-500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bernina Bernette Deco 500&lt;/a&gt; which comes with a card of a strange format. I thought at first that it was a compact flash, but it has only one pins row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I read, this machine use the PES format which can be generated from &lt;a href=&quot;https://inkstitch.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inkstitch&lt;/a&gt;. Does anyone know how to copy my custom pattern to this type of card? Is there a card reader I can by somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ORKl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ORKl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Card from profil&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ciVQh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ciVQh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Card back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="70" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-01-23T22:24:49.777" LastActivityDate="2023-10-14T19:12:36.743" Title="How to copy an embroidery pattern to a Bernina Bernette Deco 500?" Tags="|sewing-machine|embroidery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10852" CreationDate="2022-01-22T21:14:20.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cursory search yields: The manufacturer doesn't want you to write your own patterns onto this type of card (or they want to earn big money to graciously allow you to design and use your own patterns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This card has a propriatary format, meaning there is no standard hardware to use it. You must buy a special card reader from the manufacturer (there seem to be a few manufacturers who support this card).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card you have is most likely read-only. They are intended to be marketed like a sewing pattern or a CD. The manufacturer writes one pattern onto the card and sells the pattern via the card to customers. I found some rewritable cards online, but for a much higher price.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There once was a &lt;em&gt;very expensive&lt;/em&gt; product called &amp;quot;Magic Box&amp;quot; by Brother that included a (hardware) card reader / writer and a software that could convert images into pattern formats and write them onto the card. As far as I read, the product is discontinued and it's impossible to activate the software, even if you buy it sedond hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion: &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; users aren't supposed to write patterns onto these cards. An overwrite function was / is mostly intended for professional users (like shops or crafters who do commisioned works) and therefore very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T21:14:20.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10851" CreationDate="2022-01-22T22:20:20.540" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Apologies.  My original answer focused on the predominant types of natural bristles (which don't have issues of animal cruelty), and skipped the small market segment that is associated with animal cruelty and which the question was actually focused on.  This is a significant rewrite and expansion to provide a more complete and accurate answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several aspects stated or implied in the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there international standards relating to cruelty in the production of brushes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, there is no such ISO standard.  Many countries regulate some aspects of animal treatment.  These are generally effective at making the predominant kinds of natural bristles cruelty-free, but largely ineffective at addressing the issue this question focuses on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarifying the nature and source of the problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question and comments refer to overseas fur farms where animals are mistreated and the industry has poor standards.  This misstates the nature and source of the problem, and suggests that one could buy cruelty-free sable brushes from caring, well-regulated American fur farms if only there was an identified standard printed on the box of brushes.  So let me start with some context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural brush bristles come from two kinds of sources.  The vast majority come from domesticated farm animals, like pigs, horses, ponies, oxen, goats, etc.  The animals are raised for other purposes and the hair/bristles are a minor by-product.  Domesticated animals are a big investment, intended to provide service over a long time or mature to become food. As such, they are generally well-treated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harvesting hair from these live animals entails processes that most people would not define as inhumane; anything traumatic to the animal would be detrimental to the purpose for which they are being raised.  Hog bristles are the predominant source of natural brush bristles, and they are recovered from the skin as a waste product after the animal is slaughtered for food.  For animals raised for food, at least developed countries typically have some regulations on their humane care and slaughtering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the vast majority of natural brush bristles would be deemed cruelty-free by most people who don't have issues with the domestication of farm animals, and that is not the source that is the focus of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other kind of source is non-domesticated animals, which accounts for a tiny portion of natural bristles, but is where most questions of animal cruelty come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non-domesticated animals&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each type of animal hair has some unique characteristics.  There is a wide range of domesticated animals, from which a variety of hair characteristics are available.  Some non-domesticated animals have hair with other characteristics, which make good brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these animals can be bred in captivity, and some don't do well even with that, requiring that they be captured in the wild (or they are easily trapped so it isn't worth the investment of raising them in captivity).  For the most part, their fur is the reason they are raised or captured.  Often, the body portion of the pelt is used for fur and the tail is used for brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the animals bred and raised in captivity, the money is in the fur, so there is an incentive to keep the animals healthy and injury-free.  But the fur farms are not animal sanctuaries where caretakers try to provide the best possible quality of life.  The goal is to keep the fur uninjured and reasonably healthy only for as long as it takes to grow to mature size.  The non-domesticated animals bred and raised in captivity are not like pets or farm animals.  They're wild, fast, predatory animals that are contained in an enclosure.  Their care is different from raising domesticated herbivore food animals with a similar goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Animals trapped in the wild are typically killed at that location as soon as they are discovered, so there's no incentive to use non-injuring traps, which would greatly reduce productivity.  Trapping is often performed by people on a subsistence income who view the pelts as a commodity; humane treatment for the &amp;quot;varmints&amp;quot; is typically not a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various methods are used to kill the animals bred and raised in captivity.  The incentive is to do it in a way that doesn't ruin the fur.  A humane method that doesn't induce panic would be consistent with that, but there's no way to know what method was used.  For wild-captured animals, the method used to kill the animal at the capture location typically does not guarantee an immediate and painless death, although an experienced trapper can quickly put the traumitized, trapped animal out of its misery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not impossible to make brushes that most people would consider cruelty-free from non-domesticated animals raised in captivity, but we don't know which sources accomplish that.  For wild-caught animals, it's likely that they were not trapped and killed by methods most people would consider cruelty-free, and we don't know what brushes contain their hair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brush labelling as to hair content is very unreliable; the labelled species is often merely suggestive of the brush's characteristics; it may or may not contain hair from the labelled species, or may be a mix of different animal hairs.  As a purchaser, it is impossible to reliably know whether a specific brush or brand qualifies as cruelty-free.  The default assumption should be that it probably is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can you do?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brushes made from the hair of non-domesticated animals exist because the hair has characteristics that are different from the hair available from domesticated animals, and some people are willing to pay the cost of obtaining hair from those sources.  It is available for a price, but you can't count on it being cruelty-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brush manufacturers try to emulate the characteristics of these animal hairs by combining hairs from different domesticated animals and/or synthetics.  You can try those to see if they meet your needs.  But if only the &amp;quot;real thing&amp;quot; produces the results you want, realistically, you would probably need to weigh use of the brushes against your priority that they be cruelty-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2022-01-30T22:48:21.390" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T22:48:21.390" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10851" CreationDate="2022-01-22T23:58:28.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only concrete way to ensure your brushes are cruelty free is to buy synthetic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12405" LastActivityDate="2022-01-22T23:58:28.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2022-01-23T01:49:24.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using PVA glue which is specifically used for book-binding would be safe for the artwork as well as safe for the wood that it is mounted to. Making sure the wood is sealed appropriately before applying the artwork would be an interest before using the PVA glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;PH neutral acid free&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Will not become brittle over time&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Says it's reversible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How To Mount Artwork To Wood: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strathmoreartist.com/blog-reader/how-to-mount-artwork-to-a-piece-of-wood.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.strathmoreartist.com/blog-reader/how-to-mount-artwork-to-a-piece-of-wood.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Product Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0025TZ26Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Books-Hand-Neutral-Adhesive-BBHM217/dp/B0025TZ26Q/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2022-01-27T22:17:06.360" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T22:17:06.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10859" CreationDate="2022-01-23T21:34:20.950" Score="3" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now I have a sewing machine with a walking foot (Bernina Activa 145), I'm having another go at my upcycled  bike inner tube wallet design (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/5471/319&quot;&gt;old question from when I tried hand-sewing it&lt;/a&gt;); the answer I accepted suggested topstitching but it wasn't tidy enough by hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the walking foot I couldn't deal with the inherent stretching and I got uneven stitching and puckered rubber. Now I'm using the walking foot that's fine, but the needle doesn't seem to reliably go right through and pick up the bottom thread (I'm not saying the walking foot has changed this; I'm inclined to think it's right on the edge of working and my luck has let me down).  Should I be using a thinner needle? A thicker one? Something special?  Giving up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-01-23T23:04:42.220" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T06:28:12.993" Title="Needles for machine-sewing rubber" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10857" CreationDate="2022-01-23T22:04:05.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;are you using anything to lubricate the needle as it passes through the rubber? Machinists use fine mist sprays (and in CNC, heavy mist sprays) to lubricate the cutting tools. A silicone or PTFE based spray would make the puncture of lower friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-01-23T22:04:05.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10857" CreationDate="2022-01-24T06:28:12.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a thick, sturdy needle to sew rubber. I would suggest a thick leather needle, if you have one. The tips of those have cutting edges that pierce cleanly through the material and create a tiny space for the thread to sit in. Otherwise try a needle for upholstery or heavy denim and see how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1709895062.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2deu&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;random example of AliExpress&lt;/a&gt; that demonstrates the different shapes of leather needles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVGXs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVGXs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need heavy thread. It should probably be some synthetic thread to resist the drag of the rubber. Cotton thread is not suited for sewing rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to lubricate the needle as it passes through. That's best done by covering the rubber edge you intend to sew with silicone oil, talcum powder or starch. I could imagine a DIY solution of attaching a small, oil drenched paint brush so that the needle passes through the bristles on every stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that the rubber sticks to the foot or the lower part of the machine and doesn't get transported smoothly. People have different solutions for that like: covering the machine with a teflon plate that has holes for the feed dog, putting a sheet of tissue paper or newsprint between the rubber and the machine, or covering the machine with a layer of masking tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-01-24T06:28:12.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-24T21:26:51.100" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully there are some ceramic gurus on here. I have bought a premixed stoneware glaze powder. It has directions to add 1 L of water and 0.5 L of pehatine (so 1.5 L water) to 1 kg of glaze powder (so 2.5 kg total). This would result in a specific gravity of approximately 1.67 (2.5 kg / 1.5 L).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to brush the glaze but pour and dip it, so I don't need the pehatine for that. I &lt;a href=&quot;https://digitalfire.com/glossary/specific+gravity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;read&lt;/a&gt; that a specific gravity of 1.8 was pretty much the highest possible without using deflocculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started mixing the powder with water only. I didn't power mix it, but just stirred it vigorously with a spork. I used 0.25 kg powder and 0.3 L water (specific gravity 1.83), so as not to have it too runny/watery. But already the viscosity is waay to watery (essentially runs like water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried adding some vinegar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://digitalfire.com/glossary/glaze+gelling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gel&lt;/a&gt; it, but not much happened, except after some time a part of the powder settles out of the slurry/solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is wrong, how can my glaze have such low viscosity at such high specific gravity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I calculating specific gravity correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is in pehatine exactly and what does it do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why doesn't the vinegar gel / slurry / fix the glaze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12419" LastEditorUserId="12419" LastEditDate="2022-02-01T11:42:54.963" LastActivityDate="2022-02-01T11:42:54.963" Title="Ceramic glaze too watery or too deflocculated: specific gravity or thixotropy error?" Tags="|material-selection|terminology|ceramics|clay|technique-application|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2022-01-26T01:52:16.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheat paste or rabbit skin glue. They will not release chemicals into the paper that will degrade it over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately oil paints on paper is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; non-archival if the paper was not sized or sealed with gesso or something equivalent prior to painting. The oils will eat away the paper as fast as anything you glue the paper to the board with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2022-01-26T01:52:16.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10868" CreationDate="2022-01-26T11:24:41.030" Score="2" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's me.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I want some advice on how to create a side angle easily. If you have the front face ready.&#xA;I created a character recently and was only able to create his front face, I am having trouble in making his side face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I am starting from with the image and the angle:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUCQa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUCQa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Side Face (I want to create)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the front face I have been working on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrTdb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrTdb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone roughly give advice how it should look from a side view?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be happy. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12425" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2022-01-28T02:21:02.240" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T02:21:02.240" Title="How to create 3/4 face angle on a cartoon character?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10867" CreationDate="2022-01-26T18:11:14.350" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;When purchasing a new pant, it needs to be altered to the length of my leg. When I get the alteration at a branded store, the edge is nice and flat, as shown in the image below.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a201e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a201e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I give it to a local tailor for alteration, the edge ends up puffy as shown in the images below.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bg9k6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bg9k6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apaTE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/apaTE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tailor said it'd become flat after ironing, but it didn't.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My question is, about what sewing technique is used to make the edge flat like in the first image? If I know what to tell the tailor, at least they'd do it properly next time...or at least I'll be able to fix those two black pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12428" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T17:58:11.417" Title="What flattening technique is used when a pant / trouser length is altered?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10866" CreationDate="2022-01-27T01:08:58.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tailor should have pressed it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They really need to press down on the iron. When I worked in the tailor shop &amp;amp; costume shop, I gained new shoulder muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat has to be high, steam or spraying water on the fabric helps and pressing on a very sturdy table (not a consumer ironing board).&#xA;The tailor shop also had a wooden Padded Sleeve Ironing Board on top of a table. The hem can be placed like a sleeve over it for better focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;workaround: take to the dry cleaner to press it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2022-01-27T01:08:58.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10865" CreationDate="2022-01-27T22:07:56.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drawing the human face in a front view and trying to turn it in a way to make it a side view would be kind of difficult to achieve without erasing and mostly starting over. Because the human face shape changes when the face is turned away. Such as the direction of the nose, and overall shape of the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example below are faces in different angles: pointed up, down, 3/4, and profile. By looking at these images you are able to tell how different the face structure changes when the head is turned. It will give some ideas of how to draw a character in a 3/4 view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Studying the anatomy of the human face, the bone structure, the muscle structure would be a good benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cyqgX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cyqgX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took your image, and tried to draw it in a similar style related to the original front facing drawing. (Drawing with mouse so, I apologize) The face is going to have to turn and adjust so that the right side(our viewing side) will be the farthest away from the viewer. To make it look like the person face is turned.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Duzlz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Duzlz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2022-01-28T02:11:42.010" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T02:11:42.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10839" CreationDate="2022-01-28T05:14:53.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut it with a jeweler's saw, according to the thickness of the polyresin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand the surfaces that are to be joined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick them together with Superglue or Duco Cement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12270" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T05:14:53.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10828" CreationDate="2022-01-28T13:40:18.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me this sounds like either the stone is of poorer quality or it has been over-soaked prior to use. Given the build up of residue, there are a few things you could try. A shorter soak time would be the obvious choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would probably do here is give the stone a very brief soak then actually sharpen the knife with the stone immersed under a couple of inches of water. Any residue should then not build up but dissipate into the water. After sharpening with the 400 and 1000 grit, I would then dry the knife and finally sharpen using a sharpening steel to finish the honing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12008" LastActivityDate="2022-01-28T13:40:18.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-01-31T02:57:35.603" Score="3" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a name for drawing/painting by texture and pattern naming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example naming that goes along with these patterns and expands further?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4hDW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4hDW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would ask for a specific book but I believe that is off topic for this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T21:07:23.380" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T21:10:56.127" Title="When drawing what is the name of these textures and patterns?" Tags="|drawing|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10871" CreationDate="2022-01-31T03:21:31.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hatching and Crosshatching techniques&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different types of hatching and crosshatching:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scribble hatching: overlapping circles or squiggles. This leaves a rough organic feel and texture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hatching: Parallel lines to fill in a tone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patch hatching: Creating small interlacing lines, varying in angle (that look like a patch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cross hatching: Similar to the patch hatching, but avoiding 90° angles while interlacing lines, staying with acute line angles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contour hatching: Instead of keeping the lines parallel, you wrap the lines around, like a curved surface. As you draw, the lines will wrap around the curved surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://johnmuirlaws.com/hatching-and-crosshatching-technique/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://johnmuirlaws.com/hatching-and-crosshatching-technique/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T21:10:56.127" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T21:10:56.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10882" CreationDate="2022-02-01T14:10:36.880" Score="2" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have poster paints - Camlin poster paints to be precise. I have 2 palettes, but both of them are plastic palettes. When I try to put a color on any of the palettes, they “go away”, like they don’t stay, the plastic kinda “absorbs” the color. Does this happen for everyone and do we have to use a palette made of another material or is there a solution to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the color &amp;quot;goes away&amp;quot;, I mean the consistency changes when the color touches the pallet. The brush also isn’t able to use the color mixture on the palette. As for the palette: as I said, it’s a plastic palette, meant for kids. I also have another palette, but it too is plastic and reacts with my poster paint the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12453" LastEditorUserId="12453" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T06:16:46.610" LastActivityDate="2022-02-27T08:24:36.967" Title="Why do my poster colours behave strangely on my plastic palette?" Tags="|paint|plastic|poster-color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-01T22:25:04.593" Score="2" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;We learned to make jewelry from fine pewter from a book titled &lt;em&gt;Principles of Centrifugal Rubber Mold Casting&lt;/em&gt;. But the book wasn't clear on how to open the rubber mold after vulcanization in preparation for channel cutting.  What's the best way to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took us years to understand how to really do it, so I'm posting this as a self-answered question. Any additional answers are also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12270" LastEditorUserId="12270" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T02:01:01.980" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T02:38:08.213" Title="How to open a black rubber mold in preparation for channel cutting?" Tags="|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10878" CreationDate="2022-02-01T22:25:04.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the video &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/uOYkHcXCtzU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/uOYkHcXCtzU&lt;/a&gt;, you see a craftswoman remove a mold from the vulcanizer, taking care to not burn herself. She places it on a work table and carefully inserts a large screwdriver to separate the two mold halves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vulcanizing the mold causes the halves to firmly stick together.  Separating them requires a lot of prying power, like very forcefully inserting a large screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12270" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T02:38:08.213" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T02:38:08.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10880" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-02-02T12:16:08.863" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T12:16:08.863" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T12:16:08.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10881" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-02-02T12:16:08.863" Score="0" Body="Use when your question is specifically about the usage or characteristics of poster colors, an opaque and usually cheap water-based paint." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-02-02T12:16:08.863" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T12:16:08.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10875" CreationDate="2022-02-02T12:24:40.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For new plastic palettes this is normal behaviour, and will go away after some usage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I looked into methods to get rid of this annoying aspect, but none seem to actually work well. Roughing the surface up will only make it harder to clean. I suggest to just bear with it, as it will eventually improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can opt for a porcelain palette, which naturally has a less hydrophobic surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-02-02T12:24:40.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-05T15:24:15.640" Score="5" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;An art student said, &amp;quot;I didn't use to like Picasso because I thought he's just a lineist.&amp;quot; The pronunciation was LIN-ee-ist, in contrast with &amp;quot;colorist.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not find &amp;quot;lineist&amp;quot; in the Oxford English Dictionary; in fact, every search for &amp;quot;lineist&amp;quot; turns up nonsense. The word is auto-corrected to &amp;quot;alienist&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;lines,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;linguist&amp;quot;, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graphic novels of Jason Lutes, for instance, and 1940s-1970s newspaper comics, are lineist, I thought. Perhaps Monet and Renoir were colorist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is &amp;quot;lineist&amp;quot; a known term? Is the contrast between it and &amp;quot;colorist&amp;quot; common?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If so, in what context? Is it attested anywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OED knows the term &amp;quot;colorist&amp;quot;, first attested 1685(!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A painter considered in terms of his or her use of colour; spec. a painter skilled in the use of colour. Frequently with modifying adjective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is &amp;quot;lineist&amp;quot;, and the dichotomy between it and &amp;quot;colorist&amp;quot;, that&#xA;I am curious about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12467" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T21:04:06.133" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T20:09:11.100" Title="What do the terms &quot;lineist&quot; and &quot;colorist&quot; mean in reference to painting styles?" Tags="|drawing|painting|terminology|color|comics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-05T21:13:29.930" Score="8" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find out what technique was used back then (1700's) when they made those nice gilded frames for, e.g., mirrors. See included image as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How did they do the spirals and pearls that you can see in the image? Did they hand carve the spiral or did they mold them using perhaps rabbit skin glue with french chalk? How come there is almost always a &amp;quot;line&amp;quot; that seems to be running through the entire spiral? How about the pearls? Google hasn't much to say about this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXwtt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXwtt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10456" LastEditorUserId="10456" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T21:18:53.290" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T18:22:19.507" Title="How did they make spiral decorations and pearls on old frames?" Tags="|mold-making|wood-carving|gilding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2022-02-06T08:07:20.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard terms like &amp;quot;lineast&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;colorist&amp;quot; used for animators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They aren't the standard terms used in the field, but I've heard them used nevertheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;lineast&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; is the person who &lt;em&gt;draws the outlines of the subjects&lt;/em&gt; and backgrounds, and the &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;colorist&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; is the one that &lt;em&gt;fills in the outlines with colors&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense in the world of animation, as the skill sets are different.  Also, the outlines are often drawn and tested before coloring is performed so a change can be made without wasting the extra effort required to color the animation cells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="352" LastEditorUserId="8250" LastEditDate="2022-02-16T16:53:40.617" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T16:53:40.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2022-02-06T13:08:29.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my contribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around 1919, the lineist aesthetic emerged, which proposed the line as a symbolic representation of the surface, thus replacing the plane. Among the first lineist works are those of Rodchenko and those of the Obmokhu Association of Young Painters, made up of the first class of Svomas students. These non-objective constructions of a linear type were exhibited in May 1921 at an exhibition in Moscow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;https://es.paperblog.com/constructivismo-485665/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;constructivism sculpture&lt;/a&gt; (Spanish)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the definition includes only sculpture, it's perfectly applicable to drawing and painting where, in my opinion, it refers to a structural representation, based on construction axes and that to some eyes can be interpreted as &amp;quot;unfinished&amp;quot;. On the other hand, the close relationship between the beginnings of Picasso and constructivism is very well known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An image search on Google of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=Obmokhu%20painters&amp;amp;rlz=1C5MACD_enFR506FR507&amp;amp;sxsrf=APq-WBsdQOkyFJmpggQb8l538fhIj1AL1A:1644152149844&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwj1hOSGkOv1AhXFtqQKHeEwA9oQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&amp;amp;biw=1556&amp;amp;bih=1210&amp;amp;dpr=1#imgrc=n_CkLE433Amo4M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Obmhoku painters&lt;/a&gt; gives a generic concrete visual idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my research in Spanish, I tried &lt;code&gt;lineist&lt;/code&gt; together with &lt;code&gt;constructivism&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In May 1919, an exhibition of a &amp;quot;group of young painters&amp;quot; (Obmokhu) took place in Moscow. Apart from &amp;quot;cubist&amp;quot; paintings of poor quality, works &amp;quot;destined for production,&amp;quot; projects of decoration, designs and logos were exhibited anonymously. The name of the creator was erased as well as that of the old &amp;quot;artistic will&amp;quot; (Kunstwollen). Everything was drowned out in the battle of words of a violent revolutionary discourse. Social argumentation overruled formal motivation, &amp;quot;aestheticism&amp;quot; was declared a &amp;quot;waste for the human mind.&amp;quot; Two years later, these same artists &amp;quot;declared art and its priests outlawed.&amp;quot; 20 The Obmokhu association continued to organise its annual exhibitions till 1922. The most remarkable show of this group took place in the month of May 1921. In addition to its regular members Rodchenko and Yoganson participated with an important number of three-dimensional linear structures, some of which are suspended. This participation conferred on the event the rank of a real &amp;quot;constructivist salon.&amp;quot; The 1921 exhibition marked the climax of the &amp;quot;lineist&amp;quot; tendency and that of sculptural constructivism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;From the book &lt;strong&gt;AVANT-GARDE RUSSE&lt;/strong&gt; by Andrei Nakov, page 95&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hHROm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hHROm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Monument to the Third International – Vladimir Tatlin&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2022-02-06T19:05:34.590" LastActivityDate="2022-02-06T19:05:34.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-07T00:46:27.973" Score="5" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm drawing from the book &lt;em&gt;Julien's studies of heads: selected from paintings of eminent artists, or drawn from nature&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/gri_33125008674232/page/n1/mode/2up&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a page shows two drawings: one being a rough outline with a cross through it to show proportions, and next to it another drawing of the same subject but detailed in and with no cross through it, am I meant to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;draw the first one with a cross as an aid, and then draw the 2nd one without a cross, or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;draw the first one with a cross and then use the details from the 2nd image to flesh it out, and then erase the cross?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g7VCI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g7VCI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Example from &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/gri_33125008674232/page/n51/mode/2up&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;p. 52&lt;/a&gt; of the cited and linked book&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12474" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-02-07T09:12:30.493" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T21:38:35.203" Title="What am I supposed to do with these reference images?" Tags="|drawing|reference|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10888" CreationDate="2022-02-07T01:08:33.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you are wanting to do with the drawing. If you are doing mockups or brainstorming ideas, the cross through drawing will be left there. If you are doing a quick sketch before you progress on your overall piece of art. You would lightly draw in the casting shapes and erase them once you have the overall image mapped out. You could also use the light outline and then blend it in with a tortillon or a blending stump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a right or a wrong way of using them. But for beginner artists it would be suggested to use the outlines to understand how objects face to understand perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the link you posted in the comments. The beginning artist will want to use a grid method to understand the exact points (the cross reference) to get your eyes to understand how far each point is drawn. The third eye in the image shows a singular line drawn across. Showing a less grid-like pattern so you are able to look at the distance between the single line, and notice the difference between the bottom and upper eye lid. Also the distance between the pupil and iris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oikQ6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oikQ6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/gri_33125008674232/page/n11/mode/2up&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://archive.org/details/gri_33125008674232/page/n11/mode/2up&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2022-02-07T21:38:35.203" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T21:38:35.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10888" CreationDate="2022-02-07T09:44:16.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some excerpts (rather one half, emphases by me) from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/gri_33125008674232/page/n5/mode/2up&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;introduction to the book&lt;/a&gt; by Thomas Fairland, in which the usefulness of the images is made clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system endeavoured to be illustrated in the accompanying Plates, by a progressive course of figures, is that essential method of decidedly determining the relative bearings of all the most conspicuous points in a geometrical manner, before proceeding with details, as is indicated in the early examples by dotted lines; &lt;strong&gt;nothing is arranged or recommended in the copying of the present subjects&lt;/strong&gt;, but upon principles which can be equally and truly applied to the delineation of the real objects, and therefore the learner may rely with certainty on the foundation these will become for subsequent practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having mastered [the single features of the face], the full face may then occupy his attention; and in this a few mechanical rules will assist him: as, for instance, in attempting the entire face he may first describe an oval, somewhat narrower towards the bottom than at the top, when he is at liberty to draw, or suppose to be drawn, a perpendicular line down the middle, which serves as a guide for the situation of the nose and mouth ; this line is to be crossed by others, on which are placed the nostrils, mouth, and chin. In every variety of position &lt;strong&gt;the existence or supposition of these lines is of great service to the learner&lt;/strong&gt;, as they enable him to place the features much more accurately than could be done without an adherence to them; always remembering that in every case the lines on -which the eyes, nostrils, mouth, and chin are placed, must perfectly correspond with each other, and be always at right angles -with the perpendicular line supposed to be drawn through their centre: the continuance of this method will more readily produce accuracy, and undoubtedly render the practice more easy and agreeable to the beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In other words, the reference lines are there to get a feeling for the relative proportions, directions, and volumes, and can be used both as physical guides in your drawings or as purely visual aids.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T09:44:16.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10893" CreationDate="2022-02-07T21:38:59.657" Score="7" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a crochet pattern. And it states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommended materials and  tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Plush yarn (Yarn Art Dolce / Himalaya Dolphin Baby) 100-150гр.;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does 100-150rp mean? (I've never heard about the unit rp)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess it is somehow related to the thickness or amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12479" LastEditorUserId="12479" LastEditDate="2022-02-14T13:02:32.843" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T13:02:32.843" Title="What does &quot;100-150rp&quot; mean (yarn)?" Tags="|crocheting|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10891" CreationDate="2022-02-08T02:14:23.230" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that context, it would most likely be some measurement that would allow you to choose a different yarn and make sure it's suitable to the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two recommended yarns each have 131 yards (120m) in a 100g ball. (Source: the Ravelry pages for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/yarnart-dolce&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yarn Art Dolce&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/himalaya-el-orgu-iplikleri-dolphin-baby-colors&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Himalaya Dolphin Baby&lt;/a&gt;.) That falls into a range of 100-150 yards per 100g. If you chose a similar style of yarn, made from similar materials, that had between 100-150 yards per 100g, you would get similar results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would further guess that the pattern was not originally written in English, and the abbreviation &amp;quot;rp.&amp;quot; is an untranslated abbreviation from the original language. I sometimes translate knitting and crochet patterns, and it's easy to miss an abbreviation when translating. If you know the original language of the pattern, or provide the name and source of the pattern, it might be possible to sleuth out what the abbreviation stands for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T02:14:23.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10891" CreationDate="2022-02-08T07:14:10.900" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Addition to csk's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;гр.&amp;quot; is probably Cyrillic letters (at least, they are as such in the question text), corresponding to English &amp;quot;gr&amp;quot; (not &amp;quot;rp&amp;quot;). In Russian, &amp;quot;гр.&amp;quot; is common but incorrect abbreviation for &amp;quot;gram&amp;quot; (the correct ones are either &amp;quot;г&amp;quot; or international &amp;quot;g&amp;quot;, as in SI).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this probably refers to the amount of yarn (100-150 grams).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12482" LastActivityDate="2022-02-08T07:14:10.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-09T01:58:30.717" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Linear perspective tutorials like &lt;a href=&quot;https://drawabox.com/lesson/1/7/distortion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drawabox&lt;/a&gt; often mention distortion, but never define it.  Wikipedia defines distortion for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_distortion_(photography)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photography&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distortion_(optics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;optics&lt;/a&gt; and they seem related, but I want a definition specifically for drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12491" LastEditorUserId="12491" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T17:04:48.037" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T20:40:28.690" Title="What is distortion?" Tags="|drawing|terminology|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-09T04:53:03.247" Score="0" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have problems in blending and getting smooth texture when I use my charcoal pencil on a &lt;strong&gt;Monte Marte Jumbo Drawing Pad&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;strong&gt;Strathmore&lt;/strong&gt; but yet to try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsnQx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsnQx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Graphite&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExoLd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExoLd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Charcoal&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="12495" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T06:22:01.283" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T06:22:01.283" Title="What paper type should be used for charcoal drawing?" Tags="|paper|charcoal|sketching|graphite|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2022-02-18T20:10:09.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10897" CreationDate="2022-02-09T08:43:56.547" Score="8" ViewCount="1700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in historical costume making (or rather &amp;quot;historybounding&amp;quot;: integrating historically inspired items of clothing into my day-to-day wardrobe). Currently I want to tackle making a historically inspired corset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I don't always know which material to use for the boning. Many museum examples and historical instructions tell me to use baleen (aka whalebone) which is not available anymore today. Some extant corsets contain metal strips as well as baleen and a strip of wood and I don't know which material goes where in my modern recreation. Some people use zip ties because they are cheap and accessible, but some also report that their zip ties snapped or poked them uncomfortably and had to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I know or decide which material I should use for boning a corset?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T14:45:26.983" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T20:33:50.840" Title="Corset making: which material should I use for the boning?" Tags="|material-selection|sewing|costume-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10896" CreationDate="2022-02-09T13:56:25.480" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important question you need to answer is: &lt;strong&gt;How much strain does the finished corset have to withstand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a drastic waist reduction via tight-lacing, the entire corset will be under enormous strain. You'll have to use very strong materials for the fabric, the sewing thread and the boning. If you want a slightly stiffened bustier as a form of shapewear, you can choose lighter, more flexible materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cording&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a mostly overlooked historical method of creating shapewear that holds its shape very well but stays flexible and doesn't impede movement. It's bendable in every direction and makes for a very comfortable garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need 2 layers of fabric that are slightly wider than your pattern piece and a type of string or cord that is stiffer than knitting yarn but not too thick. 1 - 3mm hemp or sisal string from the gardening department worked well for me. You should not use wired string or the wire may rust and destroy your corset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of sewing boning channels onto the fabric, you sew both layers of fabric together to create cording channels between them. You can either measure and sew first and then pull the cording through the channels or you lay the cords between the layers and sew it in with a zipper foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A corded section looks ike this. Find this image and detailled instructions in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.corsettraining.net/how-to-make-a-corset-with-cording/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog by corsettraining.net&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NTbp9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NTbp9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since cording cannot break or poke you, it's suited for tight-lacing as well as soft corsets or corseletes, but since it lacks stiffness it cannot support certain silhouettes or free-standing bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Synthetic baleen&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a plastic boning that is marketed as synthetic or &amp;quot;German&amp;quot; baleen. It comes in long strips that can be cut to length and the ends rounded with a file. It can be molded when warm and molds itself to your body when you wear the garment. Because of it's flat shape it's mostly bendable in one direction (forwards &amp;amp; backwards), but less so perpendicular to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7cXzm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7cXzm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the closest thing to real baleen that is currently available. You only need a few strips of baleen to give a corset a stiffness and flexibility that was common in historic pre-1970s corsets (or rather &amp;quot;stays&amp;quot; in this case). It is not suitable for tight-lacing or waist reduction because it can break under stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Zip ties&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crafty alternative to artificial baleen. The properties are very similar: it's thin, lightweight and flexible. But zip ties don't mold themselves to the shape of the wearer. On the contrary, they are intended to be bent around cables and stay in that shape. So corsets boned with zip ties suffer from permanent bending of the bones, for example after sitting or bending down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like baleen, they are not at all suitable for tight-lacing because they tend to permanently bend into tight corners that poke you in the ribs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Modern plastic boning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These come as woven fabric tapes that have thin plastic wires woven into them or as long plastic strips, sometimes already encased in fabric. The wider varieties usually are stiffer than the thin ones, but overall they are very flexible. The big advantage is that you can simply sew over them without encasing them in boning channels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one example called Rigilene or Featherweight with 8 plastic wires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fjG7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3fjG7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are commonly found in modern wedding dresses or haute couture garments. They are very practical, easy to use and almost invisible. The narrow ones have almost no stiffness, which makes them viable for garments made of soft, drapey fabric. The biggest difference to artificial baleen is that they don't mold to your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Spring steel boning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want waist reduction and/or tight-lacing this is the only viable option for you. Even if you don't want to tight-lace, it's good to have a strip of metal boning right next to the lacing holes for added strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast to all other materials, spring steel is only bendable in one direction. That gives it unique properties that you wouldn't want in many historical stays, but need for the typical wasp waist corset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel boning is usually sold in long strips of several meters / yards. You'll need metal shears to cut it to length. I tried cutting it with nippers and couldn't get through it. It's also available in pre-cut lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEHPl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEHPl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to cover the ends of each boning strip to keep it from tearing through the fabric. There are small metal caps available for that purpose and a rubber-like dip that dries onto the metal. I've used the metal caps and they work well, but are fiddly to get on. The dip should protect the metal from rust (at least in theory), but I have no experience with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Spiral steel boning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's made of metal, it's rather flexible and soft. It's very comparable to artificial baleen with the exception that spiral steels can bend in all directions and don't mold to the wearers body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easier to work with that spring steel because you only have to nip through a steel wire to cut them to length. There are also metal caps and dipping solutions available to protect your garment from the sharp edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AwMQy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AwMQy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wooden busk&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a special item that was only used in historical stays but fell out of fashion with the invention of metal corset closures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a smooth strip of wood the same length of the stays that was inserted into the very front to keep the stays straight and force an upright posture. There was always only one busk in a pair of stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the sturdy and not bendy busk, wood was not used as boning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an extant ca. 1830s pair of stays with a wooden busk inserted in the center (&lt;a href=&quot;https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2018/12/30/a-corset-for-the-late-1830s-sort-of/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRtNW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRtNW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So how do I choose?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a historical costume, try to get as close as possible to the historical materials. Depending on the time period, the most common boning materials were baleen, cording or steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot get artificial baleen, try spiral steel for a very tight corset and zip ties for a pair of stays without waist reduction. Simply using a stiffer fabric or an additional layer of fabric also adds stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically the center back where the lacing holes are was more reinforced than the rest of the corset. Especially at the very edge, where the lacing string would pull most on the fabric, there were often either 2 strips of baleen used or a narrow spring steel, even if the rest of the corset was boned with baleen. This prevents the lacing holes tearing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a modern corset, corselette or similar shapewear, it depends on the intended use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spring steel is the only option for tight lacing wasp waist corsets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spiral steel offers very much support for heavier figures and moderate waist shaping. Keep in mind that it can rust, so washing the corset is a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artificial baleen is very comfortable while providing a lot of support. If you need a lot of bust support but want to wash your corset regularily, this is a very good option for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modern plastic boning is very versatile (due to the varied widths) and work for corseletes as well as lingerie. It doesn't offer much support, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cording is probably the most accessible material and offers moderate support.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T20:33:50.840" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T20:33:50.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10894" CreationDate="2022-02-10T20:40:28.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The distortion discussed in the Drawbox article are related to using a two point perspective in a manner that makes the object in the drawing look distorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_(graphical)#Limitations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia has a nice article&lt;/a&gt; on the limitations of the two point perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perspective images are calculated assuming a particular vanishing point. In order for the resulting image to appear identical to the original scene, a viewer of the perspective must view the image from the exact vantage point used in the calculations relative to the image. This cancels out what would appear to be distortions in the image when viewed from a different point. These apparent distortions are more pronounced away from the center of the image as the angle between a projected ray (from the scene to the eye) becomes more acute relative to the picture plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiki article has this picture to illustrate misusing&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGaxX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGaxX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The work shows a scene that provides many deliberate examples of confused and misplaced perspective effects. Although the individual components of the scene seem self-consistent, the scene itself can be classed as an example of an impossible object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial list of &amp;quot;errors&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The man in the foreground's fishing rod's line passes behind that of&#xA;the man behind him.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sign is moored to two buildings, one in&#xA;front of the other, with beams that show no difference in depth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The&#xA;sign is overlapped by two distant trees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satire_on_False_Perspective#Summary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The wiki article&lt;/a&gt; goes on to list many more errors in the picture - these are all examples of distortion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6946" LastActivityDate="2022-02-10T20:40:28.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-10T21:04:27.950" Score="6" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to do a terrible thing, I'd buy beautiful skeins of hand-dyed yarn and rush home and wind them into super tight balls by hand. I now have a ball winder and a lot more sense. I'm rewinding these tight balls into loose ones using the winder. If I leave them to rest like that will the tension of the yarn be restored? Is there anything else I should do, like soak them in water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8768" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T18:30:52.060" Title="How to rehab tightly wound yarn?" Tags="|knitting|crocheting|yarn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10900" CreationDate="2022-02-11T18:30:52.060" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a question that comes up occasionally on the Ravelry forums, and the general consensus is that soaking will help with yarn that has lost its tension from being wound into too tight of a ball. It may work better or worse depending on the kind of yarn, so it might be best to test it on one ball (or one ball of each type that you have) before committing to a whole batch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But don't soak the yarn while it's wound into balls. First, put your yarn up in hanks. Yarn balls would take a long time to dry, and they could get moldy. The easiest way to wind a hank is to use a yarn swift. If you don't have one, this question has some good advice: &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3615/how-to-wind-a-hank-of-yarn-without-a-swift?rq=1&quot;&gt;How to wind a hank of yarn without a swift?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to tie off the hank &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; taking it off of the swift, or whatever item/person you have it stretched out on. I recommend tying it in four places, and weaving each tie back and forth through the yarn several times. That will prevent it from turning into a terrible, tangled mess when you take it off the swift. &lt;a href=&quot;https://tuesdaystitches.com/how-to-tie-a-yarn-hank-for-dying/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This blog&lt;/a&gt; has good photo illustrations of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soak the yarn using the same process you would use to hand-wash a delicate knitted/crocheted item. Use cool to warm water, whatever is appropriate for the on fiber type. Use a gentle detergent, such as Dawn dish soap or a basic shampoo without any conditioner mixed in. If there's any concern about the dye running out of the yarn, wash different colors separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let soak for 20-30 minutes to make sure the fibers get fully saturated and have time to relax. Gently squeeze the yarn hank in the soapy water, then in rinse water. Take care not to tangle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Squeeze out as much water as you can by hand, without wringing or twisting. Then squeeze between clean, dry towels. Hang it up to dry. Optionally, put a fan on it or hang it outdoors in a gentle breeze to help it dry faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're ready to re-wind it into balls, stretch the hank back out on the same device you used to wind the hank in the first place. Make sure it's secure and as un-tangled as possible before removing the ties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T18:30:52.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-13T15:44:26.957" Score="4" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning to make numerous custom bound journals where I use a piece of transparency film as the protective cover around all my pages and would also be bound with the pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of my idea was having a black and white image printed on the covers and then a colored transparency over them for a cool coloring effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not find any pre-colored transparencies that were the correct size; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dickblick.com/products/midwest-products-pvc-super-sheets/?fromSearch=%2Fsearch%2F%3Fq%3DMidwest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I did managed to find these&lt;/a&gt; but my journal size is 5.5 inches by 8.5 inches, or an 8.5 inch by 11 inch sheet of paper folded on the long edge. The material must be flexible enough for me to fold it to this proper size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up purchasing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.grafixarts.com/products/computer-grafix-film/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Computer Grafix brand clear film for inkjet&lt;/a&gt; form my local art supply store, with the intention  of dying or painting the sheets to color them myself but I’m not exactly sure how to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the whole sheet colored, and if I just print on them I know the printer will have a border and not go all the way to the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other concern is that as mentioned, I plan on making &lt;em&gt;multiple&lt;/em&gt; journals, so I need a process that isn't intensive when it comes to making multiples -- I plan on making between 50 and 200 of these. Ideally, if I could avoid extra steps like cutting to size, or deconstructing things to get them to be the shape I want, that would be great. But if there's no way around it I understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do already pre-colored 8.5 inch by 11 inch transparencies exist? If not how do I dye/color the properly sized transparencies I already have?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2022-02-14T12:46:51.840" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T12:46:51.840" Title="How to completely dye or tint or color clear transparency sheet?" Tags="|paint|color|dye|transparency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10902" CreationDate="2022-02-13T19:04:28.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are fabric dyes for synthetic fibers that will work to tint clear transparency film, but it is a messy, time-consuming process.  Also, anything you print or paint on the surface is unlikely to hold up to wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy colored transparency film in a range of colors.  A search on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/colored-transparency-sheets/s?k=colored+transparency+sheets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; yields a good range of options.  It includes both 8.5x11, and larger sizes that would provide an oversized cover if desired, coverage for a thicker spine, or could be trimmed to size (quickly and easily trimmable with a paper cutter).  The colored transparency film is like the clear transparency film in thickness, stiffness, etc.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNMRE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNMRE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind wasting some of the material, you can buy colored, transparent plastic document folders that can be easily trimmed to size.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07T87W72Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Sooez-Document-Project-Transparent-Assorted/dp/B07T87W72Q/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=transparent+folders&amp;amp;qid=1644782137&amp;amp;sr=8-7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are thick and stiff enough to serve as document folders (similar purpose and handling as a journal cover), and already pre-folded.  They are made of a type of plastic that is a little more flexible than transparency sheets (which are intentionally stiff for easy, one-handed handling on a projector).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DA2Cc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DA2Cc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be colored lamination pouches.  These are readily available in wallet and badge sizes, but might take a little hunting to find in larger sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-14T00:07:58.493" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T00:07:58.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10902" CreationDate="2022-02-14T06:49:59.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading the answer and comments I'd like to point out what probably &lt;strong&gt;won't work&lt;/strong&gt; and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;transparent inkjet sheets&lt;/strong&gt; are coated with a rubbery substance that can absorb the printer ink. This coating will also absorb any moisture it comes in contact with, like the natural sweat and oils on your fingers. And since our fingers naturally come in contact with all kinds of dust, oily foods and other dirty things, that'll stain the edges that are touched while leafing through the journal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rubbery coat isn't permanent either. You can rub it off with some force. Depending on the material you bought, the printing may be damaged sooner or later. You can try mitigating that by laminating the finished print in a very thin plastic layer. If that works but you're bothered by the border the printer cannot print, think about leaving an intentional border around the color sheet and the underlying image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clear film for laser printers would probably be sturdier and more heat resistent, but I have no personal experience with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Color film for theater lights&lt;/strong&gt; (aka &amp;quot;color gel&amp;quot;) is relatively thin and flexible, but many brands do have an expiration date! After that date, the film may become brittle and the thin layer of color can start cracking and peeling off the carrier film. I've seen this in person and tried finding images of old color filters, but was drowned in shopping ads and polished finger nails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T06:49:59.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10907" CreationDate="2022-02-14T17:02:33.967" Score="5" ViewCount="5478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked a question about transparencies, and while doing research for it, I found a lot of websites mentioned their products were &lt;strong&gt;N mil&lt;/strong&gt; thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does &lt;em&gt;mil&lt;/em&gt; mean when talking about the thickness of a material? How does it compare to other common units of measure?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2022-02-14T18:06:23.277" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T13:04:05.837" Title="What does 'mil' mean when measuring thickness?" Tags="|paper|plastic|terminology|wire|transparency|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10906" CreationDate="2022-02-14T17:02:33.967" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The internet has informed me one &lt;strong&gt;mil&lt;/strong&gt; is a measurement that equals one-thousandth of an inch (0.001 inch) or 0.0254 mm. You can convert any length unit into mils via &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=google%20mil%20to%20inch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google's length unit conversion&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;Google labels it &lt;strong&gt;Thousandth of an inch&lt;/strong&gt; instead of &lt;strong&gt;mil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the comments below, there are some British English applications where the term &lt;strong&gt;thou&lt;/strong&gt; (short for thousands) is used instead of &lt;strong&gt;mil&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also learned that to convert between &lt;strong&gt;mil&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;gauge&lt;/strong&gt; one can take the number of mil and multiply by 100; thus a 2 mil thickness converts to 200 gauge (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.uline.com/CustomerService/ULINE_FAQ_Ans?FAQ_ID=49&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;according to ULine's website&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explanation of &lt;strong&gt;mil&lt;/strong&gt; I found from a helpful &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.globalplasticsheeting.com/mil-thickness-compared-to-mm-millimeter-and-inches&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic sheeting website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does mil thickness compare to mm (millimeter) and inches? What does mil stand for in measurement?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic sheeting is measured in mils.  A mil is a measurement that equals one-thousandth of an inch, or 0.001 inch. One mil also equals 0.0254 mm (millimeter). Thus a mil is not the same thickness as a millimeter. The term &amp;quot;mil&amp;quot; is not an abbreviation but a unit of measure.The chart below gives you an idea of mils to millimeters to inches. An every day trash bag ranges between 1.2 mils and 1.7 mils. A much stronger trash bag that offers better tear resistance is between 3 mils and 6 mils. A credit card is around 30 mils thick while a common deck of playing cards including the box is approximately .75 inches thick or 750 mils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;mil&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;mm&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;inch&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Item&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.0254&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.001&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.07619&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.003&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.152399&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.006&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;10&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.254&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.01 (1/64 in)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;15&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.381&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.015&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;20&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.508&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.02&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;30&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.762&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.03  (1/32 in)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Credit card&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;60&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.524&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.06  (1/16 in)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;100&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.54&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.1  (3/32 in)&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the same website had some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.globalplasticsheeting.com/thickness-of-plastic-sheeting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;helpful information for visualizing thickness in mils&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thickness of Plastic Sheeting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic Sheeting [...] is rated with the term, &amp;quot;mil&amp;quot;. [...] Most human hair is  One-thousandth of inch, or 0.001 inch [or 1 mil].  The most common size in the thickness rating for plastic sheeting is 6 mil. This is 6-thousandths of an inch, or 0.006 inch. Generally, the thicker the plastic, the stronger it is.  If it has string/scrim reinforcement, then the string within the plastic will give it added strength. Depending on the application, the composition of the plastic can play a big role regardless of the thickness.  For example, additives added to the plastic such as the fire retardant (FR) additive may play a more significant role than the thickness of the plastic if the job requires FR plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that the term &amp;quot; heavy gauge&amp;quot; plastic is not to be confused with &amp;quot;heavy mil&amp;quot; referring to heavy plastic sheeting. The term &amp;quot;gauge&amp;quot; refers to the thickness of metal. It really doesn't apply to plastic sheeting/ plastic sheets.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Thickness of Plastic Sheeting&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Common item for comparison&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;75 mil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;U.S. Nickel&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;60 mil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;U.S. Penny&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;50 mil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;U.S. Dime&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;10 mil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Business card&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6 mil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;white trash bag used in kitchens&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4 mil&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;standard piece of paper&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2022-02-16T13:04:05.837" LastActivityDate="2022-02-16T13:04:05.837" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10906" CreationDate="2022-02-15T08:12:14.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is basic English etymology:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mil (n.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1721, in per mil &amp;quot;per thousand,&amp;quot; from Latin mille &amp;quot;thousand&amp;quot; (see million); compare percent. As a unit of length for diameter of wire (equal to .001 of an inch) it is attested from 1891; as a unit of angular measure it is recorded by 1907. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etymonline.com/word/mil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.etymonline.com/word/mil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like a large part of English and typical imperial units, mil comes from Latin for thousands. &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As in One Thousands of an inch.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Mil is also the root word for million. And milli as in milliamps or millimeters, in metric units. Mil is a the root of them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also true for other languages like Spanish, where a mil pesos for example means a thousand as in One Thousand Dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12531" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T08:12:14.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10906" CreationDate="2022-02-15T09:50:01.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;mil&amp;quot; is not a standardised unit, and whilst it can usually be interpreted as &amp;quot;one thousandth&amp;quot; of something the only safe course of action is to ask the supplier for clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, it's &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; safe to interpret it by context (e.g. paper would be unlikely to be several millimetres thick) and by reference to the location of the seller (Americans use English units, just about everybody else uses metric units). But you'd be most unwise to rely on that if gross misjudgement would be expensive: a court would probably not consider &amp;quot;I assumed that...&amp;quot; to be an adequate level of certainty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9910" LastActivityDate="2022-02-15T09:50:01.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-17T00:47:33.170" Score="4" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to protect my herbarium specimens. They vary in thickness quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, I looked into using a laminator, thinking that would do the trick by acting like a vacuum-formed shell.  Such a shell would accommodate a range of thicknesses, protect the specimens from handling, and seal out air.  But since laminating film doesn't stretch, and laminating machines don't accommodate significant thickness, I'm looking for another solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What method is there to seal in, protect, and preserve my herbarium?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12556" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T16:58:19.087" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T23:35:08.800" Title="How can I protect my herbarium?" Tags="|tool-selection|plants|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2022-02-17T06:51:51.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pilot's Color Eno leads work great for outlines.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the light blue variety is quite light to start with, lifts easily and whatever is left tends to dissolve while painting over it in the painting process. Making it excellent for under sketch for drawing out comics, paintings, and drafting. Erases easily, and draws smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2AAri.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2AAri.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2022-02-17T20:04:00.523" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T20:04:00.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10829" CreationDate="2022-02-17T06:56:43.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylics should do the trick and you can seal it with a polyurethane varnish to help protect the colors from wearing away - it also gives a lovely glossy finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look up tutorials on painting and sealing polymer clay, they should give you more in depth info if you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12559" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T06:56:43.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-17T14:45:02.850" Score="2" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to be 2 methods that I've seen online to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;infuse the tea leaves in hot oil if choice (virgin olive, coconut etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doing the same thing as above but with cold oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the 1st method and I've left it to infuse for 4 days in a jar now but the scent is still weak. For reference I'm trying a green tea/toasted rice concoction for a candle scent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a better way? Soaking it with alcohol first? I don't have a still at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastEditorUserId="12565" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T00:52:36.837" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T06:35:35.470" Title="How to infuse candles/soaps with scents from tea leaves?" Tags="|soap-making|candle-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-18T15:05:13.113" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a part with 3mm thickness aluminum plate (about 10 by 10 cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my first try, I painted the plate with permanent ink and drew the layout using a tungsten pen and a square ruler.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;After having made a cross mark, I used a center punch, took it to my drill press, and started drilling with a 3mm drill bit at first, then a 5mm drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my second try, I printed my layout and stuck it to the plate with latex glue, then used the center punch on the paper, and used the drill press just like during my first try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first try lacked precision due to the imprecision of my hand and ruler.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;During both of my attempts I also had a problem with the drill press as I wasn't able to position the center punch mark to the drill bit accurately enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My drilled holes are usually off-center by almost a millimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually make my part with a 3D printer. This metal working is quite new to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I missing anything? How should I have done this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note&#xA;this is my design&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nu02b.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nu02b.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12573" LastEditorUserId="12573" LastEditDate="2022-02-18T21:44:21.343" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T17:55:36.663" Title="How to use a drill press to drill with drawing layout" Tags="|metalworking|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10829" CreationDate="2022-02-18T19:39:22.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water colours will certainly wash off, if you are able to apply them in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested in the comments, acrylics might work, but that likely depends on the bond with the substrate. You can ground the plastic, and/or roughen it up slightly with some sandpaper.  Acrylics will need a coating or sealer to make it waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T19:39:22.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2022-02-18T20:09:11.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are '&lt;em&gt;lineists&lt;/em&gt;', there is likely such a thing is '&lt;em&gt;lineism&lt;/em&gt;', and that at least comes up with several hits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.saatchiart.com/paintings/lineism/feature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.saatchiart.com/paintings/lineism/feature&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/lineism/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/lineism/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on these and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=lineism&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar results&lt;/a&gt;, the term seems to be generally used to indicate &lt;strong&gt;a stylistic tendency to accentuate lines in artworks&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also performed a search query on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Internet Archive&lt;/a&gt;, since the term could be outdated, and, indeed, there are some — but very few — hits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Even those who are not considered to be selectionists believe that natural selection is very important in evolution. So &lt;strong&gt;the epithets, selectionist and pure-lineist&lt;/strong&gt;, fail to indicate the difference between the two groups to which they have been applied. It would be quite impossible to divide biologists into two distinct schools on the basis of a subject upon which there are many different shades of opinion.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Excerpt: &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/jstor-2456043/page/n21/mode/2up?q=lineist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Piebald Rats and Multiple Factors&lt;/a&gt;, article published in The American Naturalist, vol. 50. 1916.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;This 'mocking tone' also attached to the Communist Party's 'correct lineism': &lt;strong&gt;a 'correct lineist' was a comrade whose holier-than-thou espousal of party dogma made other comrades want to spit&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these articles the word is used in a more abstract way: the 'lineist' is someone who draws a linear or direct conclusion from something, or sees something in an all too straightforward manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most notably for our context are the following quotes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;The 1921 exhibition marked the climax of &lt;strong&gt;the &amp;quot;lineist&amp;quot; tendency&lt;/strong&gt; and that of sculptural constructivism.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Excerpt: &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/avantgarderusse00nako/page/38&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Avant-garde russe&lt;/a&gt;. Andrei B. Nakov. 1986. p. 95&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Lineism,&amp;quot; practised in Russia between 1919 and 1922, suppressed the material sensuality of the pictorial plane in order to replace it with a conceptual reduction of the single straight line.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Excerpt: &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/avantgarderusse00nako/page/94/mode/2up?q=lineist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Avant-garde russe&lt;/a&gt;. Andrei B. Nakov. 1986. p.39&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are from a book about suprematism in art (coincidentally the same one as referenced in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10886/6388&quot;&gt;Danielillo's answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since this seems to be the only hit when it comes to suprematism (or art history in general), it could be a translation of or neologism for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrei_Nakov&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;French, Bulgarian&lt;/a&gt;, or Russian word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Looking into that did lead to finding the word &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Liniizm&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; as coined by Russian avant-gardeist &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Rodchenko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alexander Rodchenko&lt;/a&gt; (also mentioned in Danielillo's post):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;We know that before Construction No. 126 was painted he had been working on a theoretical statement to be called Liniizm (‘Line-ism’ or ‘Linearism’), in which the whole immensely complex problem could be addressed&lt;/em&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tate.org.uk/research/publications/tate-papers/12/aleksandr-rodchenkos-lines-of-force&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that word has also (and more often?) been translated as 'linearism' (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://monoskop.org/images/2/2f/Lavrentiev_Aleksandr_1992_What_Is_Linearism.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this PDF&lt;/a&gt; of the article 'What is Linearism?' by Alexander Lavrent'ev, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few additional but not particularly relevant comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite a few of the references come from Latin texts, but - and this is corroborated by how Google hardly finds any hits with the query '&amp;quot;lineist&amp;quot;' -  this is due to bad Optical Character Recognition when the texts were digitized (mistaking '&lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/epistolaecumste00wagngoog/page/n274/mode/2up?q=lineist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lineis&lt;/a&gt;' &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_lSIUpWb8y_AC/page/n483/mode/2up?q=lineist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;several&lt;/a&gt; times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the old rendition of 'finest': &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/dli.bengal.10689.1859/page/n281/mode/2up?q=lineist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fineist&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, sometimes misinterpreted to be 'lineist'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T20:09:11.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10917" CreationDate="2022-02-18T23:26:26.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On thin material, sometimes it's easier to get precise placement by drilling with a handheld tool because you can adjust the bit location as you start to make the hole, then the hole will guide you and the drill (and being perfectly perpendicular to the piece usually isn't critical on thin material).  With a drill press, the hole will end up where you position things, so precise positioning is critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your workflow or requirements pushes you to using a drill press, there are a few things that can make the job easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need to make a lot of holes in a pattern, use fixtures for alignment.  This is useful for multiple holes the same distance from an edge, or multiple pieces with a hole in the same location.  Fine tune positioning with scrap pieces (can be any cheap material of the same dimensions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Making a location guide mark for a drill press works a little different from doing it for handheld drilling.  The drill press will force the hole to the position you set up.  If you use a center punch and don't then position the piece precisely, you can get an off-center hole, an angled hole, or a broken drill bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a drill press, the hole will be where the drill press is aligned (unless it's forced off-center by making the drill bit buckle, like too much pressure too fast and a dull bit). You don't need a center punch if you have a way to precisely align the piece. There are a couple of positioning strategies that can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a very shallow guide or just location marks on the piece.  Start with the clamps loose enough so you can slide the piece around for adjustment.  Position the piece as accurately as you can.  Iterate some initial, very shallow surface drilling just enough to confirm that the hole will be centered, adjusting if necessary.  Tighten everything once you're confident in the positioning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A variation on that theme: start with the smallest drill bit you have (for the minimum error off-center), then enlarge the hole in several steps.  The initial hole only needs to be deep enough to center the next bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a really deep divot with a center punch.  Leave the clamps loose enough so the piece can slide its position but not rotate with the drill bit.  With the drill press off, lower the bit, center it in the divot by moving the piece so the bit is not being deflected in any direction (visible when lowering the bit into the divot).  Start drilling.  Let the piece center itself (while the hole is still very shallow, nudge the piece if necessary if the hole isn't quite centered).  Once the hole is accurately centered, you can tighten the clamps, although that might not be necessary for small holes; the hole will act as its own guide.  Just prevent the piece from rotating or vibrating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're making systematic error (the error is always in the same direction), practice with some scrap.  Make a series of holes and measure the error.  Then position the way you normally do, and make a manual adjustment to compensate for your normal error.  Even if you don't make the precise same error each time, if you are normally off in roughly the same direction and by roughly the same amount, compensating for the average error will improve your precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If this kind of drilling will be a recurring requirement, you can invest in  a cross slide vice.  This is a vice mounted on an XY screw adjustment that lets you fine-tune the position.  If you carefully align the orientation of the drill press table with the drill, and the vice with the table, you can also use it to position the first hole, then use the adjustment screw to translate the piece to make other holes across the piece the same distance from the edge and at an accurate interval.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/orVkQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/orVkQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;image courtesy Harbor Freight&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T17:55:36.663" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T17:55:36.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10923" CreationDate="2022-02-19T17:07:00.213" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to create something akin to this album cover to hang on my wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSG69.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSG69.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not at all sure that the original was created this way, and maybe the cover is not even a photo of a physical object at all, but I think it could be done by printing out some images, tearing them and gluing together. The aspect I am most interested in is recreating the edges. What sort of material tears this way? I notice a lot of long fibers sticking out, is it canvas? Or some very thick paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12578" LastActivityDate="2022-02-20T11:01:29.780" Title="What sort of paper is &quot;The Dark Pool&quot; album cover made of?" Tags="|paper|material-identification|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10921" CreationDate="2022-02-19T17:33:39.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like ancient bookbinding printed paper or a kind of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_marbling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;paper marbling&lt;/a&gt;. There's a large classification list and examples at the University of Washington &lt;a href=&quot;https://content.lib.washington.edu/dpweb/patterns.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Digital Collections&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/baFOr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/baFOr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carnegielibrary.org/discover-historic-bookbinding-marbled-endsheets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carnegielibrary.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More printed bookbinding paper classification at &lt;a href=&quot;https://pius.slu.edu/special-collections-exhibits/exhibits/show/binder-s-art/decorative-papers/paste-paper/pulled-paste&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Binder's Art&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NS3RY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NS3RY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2022-02-19T19:54:51.147" LastActivityDate="2022-02-19T19:54:51.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10921" CreationDate="2022-02-19T22:28:27.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the images used for this collage look like torn from several coloured prints of astrophotographic images to me, printed on a heavy, presumably hand-made paper.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The image below seems to feature a rock texture (which makes sense, since the person is standing on it), and to have been cut with scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the Ben Day dots in some of the prints, but it is unclear if they were part of the original photo or due to the printing process. I assume the former, since they're not visible on all of the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the colours of the images and the fibres, I think they were torn from somewhat older books or even posters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it will be hard to print paper yourself and get this exact same look, but if you want to print the images yourself, I suggest visiting an art supply store and looking into the heavier deckle-edged sketching papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you might want to go to thrift stores or second-hand book stores and find books with similar imagery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-02-20T11:01:29.780" LastActivityDate="2022-02-20T11:01:29.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10916" CreationDate="2022-02-21T06:35:35.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with your ingredients is that both (green tea and toasted rice) only have a mild scent to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scent mostly comes from essential oils. Things that are rich in essential oils like lavender flowers, eucalyptus leaves or mint have a very strong scent that can be overpowering. But it's easy to extract their scent into a neutral oil and use that to infuse things like candles or soap. In fact, most tutorials for &amp;quot;tea infused candles&amp;quot; use mint or lavender tea instead of green tea!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both green tea and rice have only a very small amount of oil, so it's harder to extract any scent from them. You should &lt;strong&gt;heat 100 ml oil in a pan to medium-low heat and steep tea leaves in it for 15 minutes.&lt;/strong&gt; If the oil is too hot, it destroys the scent. If the scent is still not enough, add more tea. Don't worry if your tea bags break apart in the hot oil, that's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory you could extract more scent by putting the ingredients in alcohol, but &lt;strong&gt;mixing alcohol into candle wax makes the candle melt and drip, the alcohol makes the drips themselves flammable and such a candle poses a high risk of burning down your home.&lt;/strong&gt; The only safe options for adding scents to a candle are essential oils or scented wax melts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many candle scents available by many manufacturers, including green tea. They usually contain instructions like &amp;quot;add X drops of oil to Y weight of wax&amp;quot;. If you find a scent too strong or irritating, you should add less to the molten wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paraffin wax can hold the most scent without any additives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-02-21T06:35:35.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10929" CreationDate="2022-02-21T19:45:06.500" Score="5" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3D printer in which I can print the attached object for use as a planter. I am assuming that the easiest molding process would be to use a silicone mold. As a first timer for creating a mold, my plan is to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print the cylindrical container to surround the object&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;glue the base of the object to the base of the box&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pack some clay on the inside so that the resulting wall thickness is sufficient for concrete&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coat the inside of container and object with a release agent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pour the silicone into the container and let it set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break away the container&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use knife and cut a zig-zag pattern on the side of the mold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull out the object&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;close the zigzag pattern and tape it up ready for concrete pouring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What grade of silicone should I use to minimise difficulty pulling out the object from the mold. A silicone with low viscosity? Have I missed some crucial steps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wa28H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wa28H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12590" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T15:55:14.030" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T08:49:10.840" Title="Some guidelines to create a silicone mold of this flower pot object" Tags="|casting|silicone-mold|pottery|concrete|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10928" CreationDate="2022-02-22T11:12:48.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Alternative to a silicone mold&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just as well print the pot twice in different sizes and use those prints as a mold. You'll probably need to print &lt;strong&gt;both sizes at the same time&lt;/strong&gt; because you cannot fit a slightly smaller pot through the opening of the large pot. You can print them with thin walls because they only have to withstand some liquid concrete, but no wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a square wood or a board and glue the upper edge of the smaller pot to it. Then center the bigger pot over it and glue the edge. You now have a mold you can fill with concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the concrete is completely cured, you'll have to break away the outer 3D print. You can chose to keep the inner print as a water barrier or break it away as well for a pure concrete look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Complex outside&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This flower pot has a very complex surface. That's what makes it so attractive for 3D printing and the reason why such objects were very rare before 3D printing: &lt;strong&gt;it cannot be mass-manufactured in the conventional way.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rough shape is a cylinder with some very prominent protrusions. If you cast the outside of the pot in a single mold, it will be very hard getting the pot back out after the mold cured. If you also cast the inner space as a single mold, it will be almost impossible to get the concrete cast out of there without either destroying the mold or the cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to cut the outside mold vertically into at least 2 parts, but 3 are probably better. Due to the irregular surface, it will be hard to create clean lines. It's better to seal the opening of the pot, lay the entire mold container onto one side and pour molding silicone up to 1/3 of the volume. Put some big indentations into the silicone (with something like wooden dowels) to help you align the mold parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the first part is completely cured, remove the dowels (but not the printed pot!) and cover the whole mold with a very generous amount of mold release. Rotate the mold by 90° and pour a second part of the mold like above (including indentations for alignment). Once that's cured, stand the container upright, add more mold release and pour the third part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Complex inside&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll encounter the same problem in the cavity of the pot: fill it with silicone and you'll have a really hard time getting it out in one piece again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I propose finding (or printing) any cylindrical object that is almost as big as the cavity at its smallest part. When you fill the cavity with molding silicone, suspend the cylinder in a way that it fills as much of the cavity as possible without actually touching the walls. Once the mold is completely cured, you can first remove the cylinder, which should give the silicone enough room to be removed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the cylinder is part of the mold and needs to be inserted when you pour the concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mold container&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concrete is thick and heavy. If you don't want your pour to distend or leak, you need either very thick silicone or a structure that gives the silicone more stability. You should not &amp;quot;break away&amp;quot; the molding container at all. Instead, pull the cured mold out, separate the parts and remove the original printed pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you want to pour the concrete, reassemble the mold parts and insert them into the container to give them stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wall thickness&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would you &amp;quot;pack some clay on the inside so that the resulting wall thickness is sufficient for concrete&amp;quot; when you could 3D print the pot with a sufficient wall thickness? At the very least, I would greatly increase the thickness of the bottom of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to save on printing material, a better solution might be filling the entire inside of the pot with clay except a smooth cylinder (very similar to the one I suggested for making the inside mold). That makes the molding process much easier, but it might create weaknesses in the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finished concrete pot would have the structured outer wall but a simple, smooth cylindrical inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Molding silicone&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a 2 part molding silicone for this project and it should be pourable. Be careful when mixing both parts to avoid introducing air bubbles. Pour the liquid silicone in a thin stream into the mold (that removes bigger air bubbles) and don't pour directly over the object. Instead, start pouring at a side wall or the bottom of the mold container and let the silicone rise up around the object to avoid trapping air bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Concrete&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want a rather liquid concrete mixture to make sure that all the protrusions are completely filled. Shake, tap or vibrate the filled mold to help air bubbles escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T05:54:49.953" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T05:54:49.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10473" CreationDate="2022-02-22T17:05:44.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mayarts.com/ribbons/1-8-inch-silk/?attribute_color=SK-8-14%20-%20RED&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is what I ended up getting: a &amp;quot;hand-dyed silk ribbon with woven edge&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It is very soft and supple — just like I wanted. It's actually &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; mild - no way the edges will slice through old paper.  This ribbon was perfect for the job, although rather expensive at $30/spool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8602" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-02-22T19:33:16.550" LastActivityDate="2022-02-22T19:33:16.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10928" CreationDate="2022-02-22T23:52:12.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won't duplicate all the good information in Elmy's answer; this will be supplementary ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If concrete is the material you want to cast, here are some considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify terminology, &amp;quot;concrete&amp;quot; implies a cement-based material that contains stones, which won't be compatible with a thin wall or fine surface detail.  If you want a cement-based material, you'll need something containing cement and very fine sand, that can be mixed to a pourable consistency and cure strong.  There are a few pre-mixed materials that do well for this kind of application.  Rapid Set's CementAll is a popular one, generally available at big hardware chains.  ShapeCrete and SculptCrete would also be good.  A similar material that would also work is polymer-modified plaster, which is a mix of plaster and acrylic resin, sold as Jesmonite and various other brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can go reasonably thin with ceramic, but not cement.  Cement is brittle and has low tensile strength (easily pulls apart or breaks under a load that stretches it).  If you want to use cement, plan on a reasonable wall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another implication relates to the mold.  Small, thin surface detail will easily break off during demolding.  So the mold needs to be designed to avoid undercuts that will catch in the mold.  Avoid a &amp;quot;sock&amp;quot; mold (a thin, elastic mold that you peel off), and incorporate mold seams in undercut locations so the mold can be removed without pulling on the cement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mold considerations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elmy's answer suggests ways to facilitate removing the mold from the inside -- making the inside cylindrical or making a thin, flexible mold of the inside that is held in place by a removable cylindrical core.  If you go the second route, there's an additional helpful approach.  Much of the problem interior detail will be out of sight.  Modify the 3D model so the inside basically follows the shape of the outside, especially where visible at the top, but doesn't have fine surface detail or undercuts that will snag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a practical matter, this design will probably require at least the outside to be a flexible mold, like silicone (it would take an insane number of rigid sections to avoid undercuts).  Silicone is expensive.  You can reduce the amount required by 3D printing an external shell.  Make the silicone layer just thick enough to capture the surface detail and provide some material for good alignment of sections.  Contain that in a 3D printed shell that follows the gross shape.  Make that shell in sections that clamp together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Possible silicone alternative&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very inexpensive, reusable molding material you can make at home that can replace silicone for casting a variety of materials.  The primary ingredients are gelatin and glycerine.  An online search for &amp;quot;gelatin glycerine mold&amp;quot; will yield a lot of variations on the recipe.  A couple of good ones for a start are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.observationsblog.com/sciencetechnologyexperiments/reusable-molding-material-homemade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reusable Molding Material: Homemade... - Observations&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ultimatepapermache.com/gelatin-and-glycerine-mold-recipe1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gelatin And Glycerine Mold-Making Recipe, Cheap And Reusable • Ultimate Paper Mache&lt;/a&gt;.  It generally behaves like a soft silicone mold.  The resulting mold isn't as durable as silicone in terms of reusing it many times, but it can be melted down and reused to make a new mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't research how well this material works with cement.  It's soft, so it could distort under a lot of weight.  It's also possible that the high alkalinity of the cement could affect its properties.  It would probably work  best with a fast-setting cement mix so the water doesn't have too much time to affect the material and potentially degrade surface detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This material is very flexible, so it might make it easier to demold the result.  It would also offer the possibility of casting fragile detail and undercuts, then demolding by melting any residue that doesn't easily peel out.  The drawback of melting it to demold is that cement is very porous, so some of the melted material would probably soak into the cement and affect the surface appearance (which may or may not be good).  If any cement debris sticks to the mold, it will settle out when you remelt the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plan on experimenting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using cement for this kind of object is really pushing the boundaries.  Assume that it will take a lot of trial and error to get everything right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-23T15:39:15.597" LastActivityDate="2022-02-23T15:39:15.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-24T23:56:58.737" Score="5" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made this jar using plaster:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhW6M.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhW6M.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I painted it with plastic white paint as a base, and then applied this gold metallic paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to paint some horizontal brown lines using oil-based brown paint and a small brush, but I need some ideas and help on how I can get (a) perfect horizontal line(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it will be hard to do so using painting tape (by taping 2 parallel horizontal lines using painting tape and keeping around 10 cm between them, then painting the area between the 2 pieces of tape), as it will be hard to maintain equal space between the 2 parallel tapes. I will then also run the risk of removing or damaging the gold paint after removing the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another method to do so?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or are there any online stencils that I can order which can help me in doing what I want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12594" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-03-11T12:58:24.560" LastActivityDate="2022-03-11T12:58:24.560" Title="How can I draw a horizontal line on a spherical object?" Tags="|painting|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10935" CreationDate="2022-02-25T00:27:14.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Build a structure from common materials, i.e., books, blocks of wood, etc., at the height necessary to match your objective line. You can use a pencil secured to the structure, making contact with the pot, rotating manually the pot, scribing each line as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, you can trust your steady hand, or use the line to apply masking tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s?k=vehicle%20pinstripe%20tape&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vehicle pinstripe tape&lt;/a&gt;, as it is stretchy for the purpose of following vehicle body panel curves and distortions. Vehicle pinstripe tape would be applied along the pencil lines, providing the masking you desire, to restrict your paint lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a modification of Triplefault's method (from Home Improvement SE) with fewer materials and purchase expenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Duplicated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/245309/how-i-can-draw-a-horizontal-line-on-my-plaster-jar-using-paining-tape-or-stenci/245317#245317&quot;&gt;Home Improvement SE&lt;/a&gt;, but probably better suited here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2022-02-25T17:18:32.760" LastActivityDate="2022-02-25T17:18:32.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10935" CreationDate="2022-02-25T01:15:00.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A globe-shaped object is hard to create a stencil for because it curves in two directions.  To have access to the painting surface, the stencil shape would be a cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make the stencil from tape, it can be difficult to position it because only the very edge of the tape can form a cylinder; if any other part of the tape grabs the surface while you're positioning it, the tape won't form a clean, uniform circle around the object.  Once the edge is pefectly in place, the rest of the tape can by crumpled against the object.  Tape also runs the risk of pulling paint off the surface if the paint isn't well adhered or the surface is weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle pinstriping tape is suggested in fred_dot_u's answer.  That is stretchy so it can conform to a 3D surface.  But the adhesive is designed for automotive paint, which is very tough stuff, adhered to a tough surface.  You would want to experiment with it, or any tape, on painted plaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to use a rigid cylinder that isn't adhered to the object where that will work, or tacky putty.  The tacky putty I'm referring to is a putty that sticks non-aggressively to a surface and is designed to not stain or damage the surface.  There are various such products sold to stick light-weight objects, like photos, temporarily to painted walls, or to seal weatherproofing film to painted walls.  Some of these putties can leave a stain if left in place for a long time, so you would want to test the product in an inconspicuous place (I haven't recently used any, so can't make a specific recommendation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the tacky putty in combination with a rigid cylinder to create a mask (position the cylinder, then press a band of putty against the cylinder edge to create the stencil edge, then remove the cylinder), but you could also use it with the kind of setup described in fred_dot_u's answer, where you would press a band of putty around the object, then use a knife in that setup to precisely cut it for the edge of the stencil, and peel off the putty in the painting area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a rigid cylinder or tape, use thick paint so it doesn't wick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cylinder approach details&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the diameter at the top and bottom of the area where you want a paint band.  Make a cylinder of each diameter from sheet material with enough strength to support the weight of the piece, like cardstock.  Ensure that you start with material that has a straight, clean edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the paint band is around the equator, support the piece on the bottom cylinder, and position the top cylinder so the two cylinders create a stencil for the paint band.  Note that the top and bottom cylinders don't need to be the same size, so the paint band doesn't need to be the same distance up and down from the equator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9KBZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9KBZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the band will be entirely north or south of the &amp;quot;equator&amp;quot;, position the larger cylinder, and use its edge as a guide for applying the putty (or painter's tape).  Remove the cylinder and then support the piece on the smaller cylinder so it acts as a stencil.  The image below shows the putty/tape and cylinder at the top, but you can flip it upside-down so the cylinder acts like a stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzoIL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzoIL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note in the diagram that when you need to use tape, the edge you want perfect is on a smaller diameter than the other edge of the tape, so it's almost impossible to lay down tape perfectly.  Using putty solves this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Elmy notes in a comment, you need a method to ensure that the cylinders and object are accurated aligned horizontally, like using a level.  You also need to be careful to keep the positioning secure so nothing shifts while you're painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Last resort masking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned that any form of tape or putty might damage the gold, and don't want to risk trying to touch it up, here's a last resort method to safely mask.  Wrap the piece tightly in plastic wrap.  Then apply painters tape tightly in the area and vicinity of where the band will be, overlapping where the edge will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the diameter after it's wrapped to make the cylinder.  Use the cylinder to identify where the edge of the band will be, and cut the wrapping with a knife (if that creates a groove in the plaster, it will be filled with paint).  Remove the wrapping from the side you will paint, and use the smaller cylinder to complete the stencil.  The painters tape will peel off the plastic film to remove the mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-02-26T00:48:53.080" LastActivityDate="2022-02-26T00:48:53.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10935" CreationDate="2022-02-25T15:47:06.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put the project in the middle of a lazy susan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build a structure on the table to hold the brush at the right height this could be your hands and arms, but I'm envisioning books or blocks of wood to improve the repeatability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the brush against the project&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spin the lazy susan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12611" LastActivityDate="2022-02-25T15:47:06.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-26T02:43:37.333" Score="2" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new raw plaster jar, as shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RsVnf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RsVnf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to paint it using this Gold metallic paint from AkzoNobel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carrefouruae.com/mafuae/en/root-maf-category/nonfood-navigation-category/home-garden/diy-electricals/tool-boxes-nails-screws/tools-sets/levi-s-multipurpose-metallic-decorative-paint-gold-750ml/p/LEVISGOLD750ML&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Levi's - Multipurpose Metallic Decorative Paint Gold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have these two 10-cm rollers, one of which is microfiber and the other is foam, as shown in this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eDjfk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eDjfk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So which roller should I use for my project (meaning, which one best fits the plaster surface + the paint type I am going to use), and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am excluding using a paint brush to avoid any brush strokes, and I have excluded using spray as I do not have a spray gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12594" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T18:33:46.087" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T20:36:44.997" Title="Which roller is best for applying paint to a plaster jar?" Tags="|painting|paint|paint-brushes|plaster|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10939" CreationDate="2022-02-26T15:07:35.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is mentioned that you would like to use it as a gloss finish. Foam would be ideal for gloss shine. But not sure if the roller would be an effective way of using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questionable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These types of rollers you listed would be used in these manners:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Synthetic/polyester fiber are to help not stick together/mat, and not glop paint. Making them effective for water based latex paints. Which is suitable for any surface type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Foam rollers are typically work well with oil or high-gloss latex paints, particularly on porous surfaces such as bare wood. Which the plaster might need a primer prior to covering it with the gloss finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consider the nap&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Based off of the rougher the surface the thicker the nap you would want to use. &lt;strong&gt;So a nap of 3/16 to 1/4 would be your best option for smooth gloss finishes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/16 to 1/4inch is commonly used for smooth surface coverage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If there are only two options of paint roller covers to choose from, the microfiber cover might be a better option because the plaster surface isn't porous enough to use something like a foam cover. But the foam cover is commonly used to do gloss finishes. So, the question is debatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edited]&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Choosing the right brush or paint roller: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frogtape.com/inspiration/tutorials/projects/how-to-choose-the-right-paint-rollers-and-brushes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.frogtape.com/inspiration/tutorials/projects/how-to-choose-the-right-paint-rollers-and-brushes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source saying you can use a paint roller with gloss and steps:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://artradarjournal.com/2021/12/05/can-you-use-a-roller-with-gloss-paint/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://artradarjournal.com/2021/12/05/can-you-use-a-roller-with-gloss-paint/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way to use gloss for paint roller:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://treehozz.com/what-is-the-best-roller-for-gloss-paint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://treehozz.com/what-is-the-best-roller-for-gloss-paint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information about nap sizes and roller types:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/c/ab/best-paint-roller-for-your-projects/9ba683603be9fa5395fab90b35a4d7e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.homedepot.com/c/ab/best-paint-roller-for-your-projects/9ba683603be9fa5395fab90b35a4d7e&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8260" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T20:36:44.997" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T20:36:44.997" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10945" CreationDate="2022-02-26T18:44:58.160" Score="2" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the book &amp;quot;Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain&amp;quot;, the author shows two  profile drawings of the same woman by two different authors. The author does this to make a point about artistic styles, calling the left more &amp;quot;painterly&amp;quot; while the right one more &amp;quot;linear&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMSuM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Drawing on the right side of the brain&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the author says (page 58)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were using identical materials (the ones in your Materials List),&#xA;and we both drew for the same length of time, about thirty-five or&#xA;forty minutes. You can see that the model is the same—that is, both&#xA;drawings achieve a likeness of Heather Allen. But  Brian’s portrayal&#xA;expresses his response to Heather in his more “painterly” style&#xA;(meaning emphasis on shapes), and my drawing expresses my response in&#xA;my more “linear” style (emphasis on line)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I admit the two styles are different but I don't understand what the author means by &amp;quot;painterly&amp;quot; as opposed to &amp;quot;linear&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12615" LastActivityDate="2022-03-04T18:32:44.510" Title="In drawing, how is a &quot;painterly&quot; style different from a &quot;linear&quot; style?" Tags="|drawing|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-02-26T18:59:49.010" Score="11" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been knitting, crocheting, sewing, weaving, and most other things textile related for decades and have never come across this tool. I inherited a box of yarn and other crafting items that included this in a sealed bag with three small balls of yarn and a yarn needle. I have never seen one of these before. Can anyone tell me what it is?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/edPWi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/edPWi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12614" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T23:07:40.963" Title="Can you identify this yarn tool?" Tags="|knitting|crocheting|yarn|tool-identification|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10875" CreationDate="2022-02-26T19:26:56.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add a very small amount of dish soap (just a small drop on the tip of a small brush) to your paints when they are on the pallet. It will break the surface tension and allow the paint to “relax” onto your pallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12614" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-02-27T08:24:36.967" LastActivityDate="2022-02-27T08:24:36.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10941" CreationDate="2022-02-26T23:48:26.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A linear style uses lines to represent the subject. Hence it emphasizes contours and details, because these can be drawn more easily with lines. In the right image you can see how the hairs are more detailed. Usually the shading is done with hatching, as this is a linear way of representing shape and lighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A painterly style, on the other hand, is usually a more loosely way of representing things. The term is derived from the idea that with paint you work with larger areas, with spots and blots, and gradients. It is often more expressive, less concerned with details and more with the overall impression and atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the terminology the author uses, but would call what she calls 'painterly' 'sculptural', because a sculptural approach emphasises shape, three-dimensionality/volume, and usually clair obscur (because the different planes are more clearly delineated, and express shading more obviously).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The hair in the left image is obviously seen as a single complex shape, not a bundle of multiple objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-02-27T13:08:52.763" LastActivityDate="2022-02-27T13:08:52.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10941" CreationDate="2022-02-27T09:38:52.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, the difference between these styles comes from &lt;em&gt;how the painter perceives the subject&lt;/em&gt;. As humans, we all see the world differently. Some people concentrate on the big picture and overall composition of an entire scene; others are drawn to the small details that might be hidden to other observers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Linear&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; painters concentrate on the lines that certain features form. In your right example, the hair flows in front of the shoulders and the hairline from the very tip of the forehead is continued in the slope of the neck. Other examples include representing movement by following bigger lines through the body, like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://designhost.gr/topic/8044-how-to-draw-movement-16-top-tips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example from Design Host&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jeJXg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jeJXg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you turn the linear style up to the extreme, you can reduce entire bodies or objects to simple geometric figures, like this other example &lt;a href=&quot;https://designhost.gr/topic/8044-how-to-draw-movement-16-top-tips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Design Host&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6DwUe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6DwUe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Painterly&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; painters (or &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;sculptural&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, as Joachim calls it more correctly), on the other hand, concentrate on the 3-dimensional planes and areas instead of lines. The entire hair on the left image is composed of 3 planes: the majority in the center, a raised plane from the forehead to the front ot the neck, and a deeper layer from the very back of her head to her back. Other very common examples segment a face into its planes, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://natstudiesart.wordpress.com/2021/08/24/doodle-warriors-full-planes-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one from Nat Studies Art!&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3aAe2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3aAe2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;sculptural&amp;quot; picture usually portrays the subject as a 3D object, giving it depth by emphasizing the structure. To stay with the elephant example, here are some &amp;quot;sculptural&amp;quot; ones from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.istockphoto.com/de/vektor/familie-von-elefanten-isoliert-auf-wei%C3%9Fem-hintergrund-gm1151172504-311892014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iStock&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/efLpB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/efLpB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that might be confusing is that using a lot of lines to paint a picture doesn't make it a &amp;quot;linear&amp;quot; picture. Hatching and other shading techniques are common and don't define the art style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still call &lt;a href=&quot;https://doitbeforeme.com/realistic-elephant-drawing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this example from Do It Before Me&lt;/a&gt; a &amp;quot;sculptural&amp;quot; drawing, although the depth perception is created by lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0PeCa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0PeCa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the example below from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/cherishart/30200448165&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cherish LoveArt&lt;/a&gt; is (in my opinion) a &amp;quot;linear&amp;quot; drawing because it emphasizes the lines and textures of an elephant's skin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7LAXl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7LAXl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2022-03-04T18:32:44.510" LastActivityDate="2022-03-04T18:32:44.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10947" CreationDate="2022-02-28T01:03:01.367" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project where I have two 5mm wide elastic bands &lt;a href=&quot;https://wollzauber.com/zubehoer/baender-gummibaender-kordel-seile/prym-kinder-elastic-band-5mm-5m-weiss&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(such as these ones)&lt;/a&gt; that I would like to connect in ten distinct locations that are seperate from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I have tried using regular sewing thread and created a loop that goes through the bands, and I closed it by making a double knot. This was quite time intensive and the result was also too loose to properly hold the two bands together when they were stretched. My goal is to connect them so they stick together even if you pull at the ends of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach I tried was to use some kind of filament that I poked through the bands, creating another kind of loop that connects them and then twisting them tight. This worked better in the end and the bands were sticking together more tightly than with the sowing approach. However, it was also quite difficult and time consuming to accurately poke the filament through the bands exactly where I want them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better solution to this problem? I don't want to change the shape of the bands so I want to avoid e.g. wrapping filament completely across the entire width of them or make some kind of knot, as it would smush the bands together and make them change shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12619" LastEditorUserId="12619" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T15:37:34.323" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T18:56:13.280" Title="Connecting 5mm wide elastic bands in multiple locations" Tags="|sewing|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10946" CreationDate="2022-02-28T12:25:46.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply sew over them with a sewing machine. If you don't have a sewing machine, hand sew a few times through both bands instead of placing just a single loop. About 6 - 10 stitches should be stable enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a sewing machine, lay the bands on top of each other and sew a straight stitch everywhere you want to connect them. Use a small stitch length. Start sewing at the top, sew to the bottom, then reverse stitch all the way up again. That secures the thread so it doesn't come lose again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hand sew the bands, don't use any knots at all because they can be easily pulled through the elastic. Use an &amp;quot;anchor stitch&amp;quot; instead: Begin the seam by a tiny stitch (no more than 1 mm) through only one band. Then stitch through the same holes 2 more times (for a total of 3). Then lay the other elastic band where you want it and sew both together. When you finish, place 3 tiny stitches on top of each other again, then pull the needle through the top rubber band, right next to the seam you just sewed. Cut the thread where it reappears from the band (opposite of the 3 tiny stitches). This technique secures the thread in the bands so it cannot be pulled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-02-28T18:56:13.280" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T18:56:13.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10939" CreationDate="2022-02-28T17:22:03.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there's minimal difference functionally between the two types of roller, &lt;strong&gt;for the case you have specified here, covering a curved surface, neither is a suitable choice.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A paint roller is designed to rapidly cover a flat surface&lt;/strong&gt; without leaving brush strokes; your vase you wish to paint has no flat surfaces at all, and the roller cannot and will not curve around the surface to apply a good coat. You'll get lines of paint, likely with thick globs along the edges of them as paint is squeezed out of the roller by the vase. Ultimately, you'll have a poor result, as this is a case of choosing the wrong tool for the job, regardless of which roller you select.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two options for how to proceed with painting. One, &lt;strong&gt;you can use a brush&lt;/strong&gt;. If you want to minimize the appearance of brush strokes, try a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-Chiseled-Foam-Paint-Brush-8500-2/100671926&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;foam brush&lt;/a&gt;, which will flex around the surface but, as it has no bristles, will leave very minimal brush lines if any. If these aren't available, careful application of the paint using a new, clean, good-quality brush can minimize the appearance of brush lines, but you may wish to practice on another surface with the same paint first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two, &lt;strong&gt;you can use a sprayer&lt;/strong&gt;. There are simpler options than a full airbrush or paint sprayer system; the Preval system is one that is frequently recommended to crafters in the US who don't want or need a full airbrush or sprayer system; it's likely a similar device exists in your area as well, as it's effectively a jar with a specially designed can of compressed air attached to it. You'll similarly want to practice a bit with your specific paint so you don't experience uneven application, runny paint, or splattering on your final project. If you invest in a more expensive system, ensure you also take the time to learn how to fully clean the system after use so it will last you a long time, through many projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there's really no way around the fact that &lt;strong&gt;a roller is the wrong tool for this job&lt;/strong&gt;. You can attempt to proceed with one or the other, but neither is going to offer a good result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2022-02-28T17:22:03.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10950" CreationDate="2022-03-01T05:56:55.410" Score="3" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love my journal, but I wish there was a better way to get stuff from my computer into it without the hassle of printing onto paper, cutting it out and gluing it in (not to mention the warping...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any printer models that print directly onto the face of the paper without rollers, such that they could accommodate a book?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, how would you efficiently transfer between physical and digital text/art with a pre-bound book?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12624" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T06:57:19.437" Title="Is it possible to print directly into a bound journal?" Tags="|book-binding|printing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10949" CreationDate="2022-03-01T06:53:47.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: &lt;strong&gt;such a printer does not exist&lt;/strong&gt; (at least not as far as I'm aware).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons are the precision required for the common printing technologies and the price dumping in the consumer market. Manufacturers must sell hundreds of thousands of their printers to make a profit. Printing in a bound book is such a nice scenario that there's simply not enough money to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;ink printing&lt;/strong&gt; the printer head (where the ink comes out) must be a precise distance from the paper away. The printer head is also very small, so it has to move over the paper from side to side repeatedly to cover the whole page. If the page is bound in a journal, you'd need to press it as flat as possible, which might damage the journal. The printer head would also need to move up and down because the first page is higher than the last page. This kind of technology is certainly possible, but would be too expensive for the consumer market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;laser printing&lt;/strong&gt; the page must be negatively charged. The laser then discharges every spot that's supposed to stay white but leaves the remaining charge in the spots that are supposed to be black. The prepared page then passes in front of the toner cartridge, where the remaining negative charge attracts the toner particles. The page is then heated up to melt the toner into the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, it would certainly be possible to achieve this in a bound book, but it's much easier and cheaper to move the paper over the components than the components over a bound book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a journal I would use thin paper. Packages of printer paper usually have an information about how heavy the paper is. The standard office paper is 80 g/m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; (grams per square meter), but you could easily go as low as 60 g/m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. At 40 g/m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt; you have things like plotter or parchment paper, which might work, but might not be what you want. Anything lighter than that is probably more like tissue paper, which smudges in an ink printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To glue the paper into your journal, you should use a spray glue instead of liquid glue to avoid warping. Glue stick also avoids warping, but can leave behind bumps of uneven glue. It can also help to put something really heavy on top of the journal right after glueing, like several bricks heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-03-01T14:47:17.807" LastActivityDate="2022-03-01T14:47:17.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10953" CreationDate="2022-03-04T15:18:22.043" Score="4" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming both are of excellent quality, on what basis do I decide which ones to purchase?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I don't have any experience crocheting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBqJf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dBqJf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FqatG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FqatG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-03-07T08:03:58.317" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T08:03:58.317" Title="Pros and cons of classic crochet needles and handled crochet needles" Tags="|tool-selection|crocheting|crochet-hooks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10952" CreationDate="2022-03-04T15:53:43.630" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you've labelled the top image as &amp;quot;handled&amp;quot; due to your unfamiliarity, the correct term for that style of hook is &amp;quot;ergonomic,&amp;quot; with all that name implies. They are much easier to hold onto due to the larger end, allowing those with problems with their hands to work with them, and allowing the average person to work longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://easycrochet.com/the-best-ergonomic-crochet-hooks/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;EasyCrochet&lt;/a&gt; gives a nice bulleted list of benefits to ergonomic hooks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Achieves better tension &amp;amp; gauge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less achy hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comfortable grip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can crochet longer without breaks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to crochet with arthritis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary benefit of standard hooks is that they are typically far less expensive and more accessible; for moderate improvements, you can also purchase a set of pads similar to foam pencil grips to add to them, but smaller hooks will remain very small even with this additional grip added to them. In my personal opinion, standard hooks are only of benefit to a new learner who isn't sure if they want to proceed, or someone who crochets only small projects infrequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of their very low price point and wide availability, a single basic hook and skein of yarn are a terrific starting point for the new learner; this initial learning process will also give you a better sense of what type of handle you might want to look for in moving to a more comfortable ergonomic hook, as many more styles beyond that pictured exist. I would not particularly recommend doing larger projects or working long-term with basic hooks, however, as they simply aren't all that comfortable or pleasant to work with compared to a well-suited ergonomic set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2022-03-04T15:53:43.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-04T18:45:37.350" Score="4" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a realistic looking muffin but I am uncertain what materials to use. Other than clay or plaster, what solutions are there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something that I could literally bake like a real muffin, that won't go off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T07:56:30.553" Title="What is the best material to make a fake muffin from?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10954" CreationDate="2022-03-07T07:56:30.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use expansion foam and colour it afterwards with spray paints, as is suggested &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Fake-Cupcakes/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. But that's a lot of unnecessary (toxic) waste, and, besides, you can't bake it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So I suggest basing your method on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ehow.com/how_6522400_make-fake-bread.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recipe for fake bread&lt;/a&gt;, which allows you to use ingredients very similar to the ones you'd use when making real bread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mix 4 cups of flour, 1 cup of salt and 2 cups of water in a mixing bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This dough is for white bread. You can use food colouring to colour your muffins (e.g. brown for 'chocolate muffins').&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Knead this dough well, and put it into muffin tins, cupcake trays or liners, or even just mugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bake the fake bread until it browns in an oven set at 300 degrees Fahrenheit [150 °C]. Check it at 20 minutes. Adjust the time and temperature for your oven, if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a loaf, so I suggest checking it earlier than 20 minutes (and let me know what time works best if you try this method out :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brush craft glue over the top of the fake bread to simulate the shine from egg white on real bread, if desired. Sprinkle the top with [..] decoration [if desired].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T07:56:30.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-08T03:22:06.613" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently became interested in interior design, and I would like to apply the classic style that can be seen in the images below from the movie &amp;quot;House of Gucci&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I've been able to research it, I found out that the style of the bas-reliefs is Greek or Roman, but I cannot find the exact house where this scene was shot, or any other apartments with the same design style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you identify for me the culture/style of these bas-reliefs?  It would also be great if someone happened to know the name of the house where the scene was shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2wJz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2wJz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm especially interested in these details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3F2u3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3F2u3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoQld.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EoQld.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12647" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-03-16T07:58:50.777" LastActivityDate="2022-03-16T07:58:50.777" Title="What is the style of the bas-reliefs in these photos?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10957" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2022-03-09T15:49:03.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Greetings, I'm Elmy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been active member of Arts &amp;amp; Crafts for more than 3 years and it's one of my favorite SE sites. I've tried many different crafts like sewing, wood carving, casting epoxy and many more and I like helping others with the problems they encounter. What entices me most about A&amp;amp;C is the creativity you can find in the projects people ask questions about and the creativity with which some of those questions can be answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already am a moderator on another SE site and therefore know what to expect and what is expected of me. Even as a regular user I have made it a habit to leave comments that hopefully help the poster to improve their question or provide additional information that could influence possible solutions and answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-03-09T15:49:03.377" LastActivityDate="2022-03-09T15:49:03.377" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2022-03-09T15:49:03.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11247" CreationDate="2022-03-09T19:15:44.000" Score="2" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a miniature trophy made out of plastic (3D printed from PLA) and I want to paint the base to look like polished mahogany. It's about 2&amp;quot; across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any guidance on which colors to use, which order to use them, or any techniques that I can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-03-10T10:36:07.833" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T00:19:58.180" Title="How do you paint a plastic miniature to look like polished mahogany?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10956" CreationDate="2022-03-09T19:17:10.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scene in &lt;em&gt;House of Gucci&lt;/em&gt; you're referring to was filmed in &lt;strong&gt;Villa Polissena&lt;/strong&gt;, in Rome. It was built in the 1920s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hefty decorative character of the niches with the busts and the central bas-reliefs seem a tad too opulent for it, but overall this particular room breathes &lt;strong&gt;neoclassicism&lt;/strong&gt;: the rigid delineations and symmetry, the sober palette of subdued pastels ('&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cama%C3%AFeu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;en camaïeu&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;'), the classical style of the reliefs and decorations, the (pedimented) window frames, and the subdivision of the walls all point to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a few higher-quality images of the interior seen in this scene from &lt;em&gt;House of Gucci&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHQbF.png&quot; width=&quot;450&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5VGkA.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.hola.com/allabouteu/2015/12/villa-polissena.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://artmaki.de/albums/villa-polissena-rome/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since neoclassicism imitated the ancient Roman style in all its aspects, the bas-reliefs, with their rigid theatrical figures and composition and classical motifs, are probably neoclassical as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N4DQT.jpg&quot; width=&quot;450&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hp7gK.jpg&quot; width=&quot;470&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Isz2E.jpg&quot; width=&quot;470&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gosee.news/news/celebrity/a-visit-with-mafalda-princess-of-hesse-and-rolf-sachs-in-the-villa-polissena-for-salon-magazine-photos-by-wolfgang-stahr-c-o-nerger-m-o-57365/issue/1048&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.welt.de/iconist/unterwegs/article158396071/So-wohnt-die-Urururenkelin-von-Koenigin-Viktoria.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;sup&gt;by &lt;a href=&quot;https://artmaki.de/albums/villa-polissena-rome/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wolfgang Stahr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-03-14T18:45:36.883" LastActivityDate="2022-03-14T18:45:36.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-10T16:00:14.497" Score="6" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to do a monochrome oil panting in just one color with tone gradation using dark, halftone and highlights. I tried doing this with raw umber and zinc white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first used raw umber to create my &amp;quot;drawing&amp;quot; the gradually added paint to create shape and volume. My halftones were too pale and muddy and of a different temperature. How to achieve monochrome look that is genuine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8955" LastActivityDate="2022-03-11T09:22:19.107" Title="What two oil colors can be used to create a monochrome portrait painting with dark, halftone and highlights without muddying?" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10961" CreationDate="2022-03-11T09:22:19.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with monochromatic painting is that white paint doesn't create half tones. My art teacher never tired to tell us that &amp;quot;white isn't a color, it's the absence of color.&amp;quot; It took me longer than I'd like to admit to understand what she meant with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at a classical color wheel we see the fully saturated colors at the edge and the same colors mixed with increasing amounts of white towards the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zpT8E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zpT8E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of a classic color wheel created with paints&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shutterstock.com/de/image-illustration/color-mixing-chart-watercolor-painting-primary-378288394&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source: ShutterStock&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at Ultramarine blue and try to lighten the color, the next lighter tone seems to be a mixture of Emerald green + blue instead of a mixture of Ultramarine + white. The same happens from Scarlet red all  the way up to Cadmium yellow. &lt;strong&gt;The next lighter tone is always a mix with a different base tone&lt;/strong&gt; instead of a mix with white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting again at Ultramarine and moving towards the center of the wheel there is an increasing amount of white (or rather water in case of water colors) mixed into the paint. But instead of getting lighter, &lt;strong&gt;the color gets less saturated&lt;/strong&gt;. It seems chalkier, maybe foggy or more pastel like, but not much lighter. The white paint decreases the color value instead of increasing the lightness. That's why &amp;quot;white is the absence of color&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must admit that the color wheel above was most probably created using water colors and those behave different from oil paints. The closest thing created with oil paints I could find was this &lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.naturalearthpaint.ca/products/colour-mixing-chart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mixing chart by Natural Earth Paint Canada&lt;/a&gt; (Click the link to see a bigger version of the image in their web shop. I'm not affiliated with them in any way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Av1wG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Av1wG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chart showing a matrix of 12 paints and the mixture of each with each&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image quality is very bad, but the color tones should be clear enough. Each tone is given in its fully saturated form and &lt;strong&gt;mixed with Titanium white&lt;/strong&gt; below that. There are different white pigments in paints, the most common being Titanium white and Zink white. &lt;strong&gt;The same base tone mixed with Zink white would look different&lt;/strong&gt; from the one mixed with Titanium white. There are even mixes of Titanium and Zink white available that create a slightly different effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And let's not forget that the quality of your paint can also play a huge role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My advice&lt;/strong&gt; is to create a similar mixing chart with the colors you have. Mix one base tone (for example Burnt umber) with all variations of black and white you have. Then mix the same base tone with the 3 primary colors. Create a small color field or a gradient (white - color - black) on a sturdy piece of white cardboard to keep it as a reference. Just experiment and see how your paints react to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a good example of &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/1FuJowe37nY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;monochromatic portrait painting by Zin Lim&lt;/a&gt; on Youtube. You'll see that they use Cadmium yellow in addition to Burnt umber, Ivory black and Titanium white. The pure Burnt umber is actually the dark tone. To create lighter tones, they mix it with cadmium yellow and a hint of white. To create highlights they mix more white and only a hint of yellow into the umber. That makes the highlights lose color value (they get chalky or muddy), but in proximity to the saturated tones that were lightened with yellow it looks natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, that's the best way to create monochromatic paintings. The result should matter more than the materials that went into it. I could use 10 different paints of a red tone and still call the result a &amp;quot;monochromatic painting&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-03-11T09:22:19.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10963" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2022-03-13T10:15:00.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Joachim&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi, I'm Joachim. I'm a visual artist with a focus on painting and drawing (and art history).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've been a moderator for Arts &amp;amp; Crafts for the last 18 months. I am also one of the most active users, here and on our Meta. In addition, I tend to focus on moderating activities across all the sites I frequent on the network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not only the subject matter that makes Arts &amp;amp; Crafts my favourite SE site, but also its community: users here are generally very helpful and friendly, without the curtness and inflexibility of larger (and most other) communities.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Additionally, it can be inspiring for my own projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-03-13T10:15:00.033" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T10:15:00.033" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2022-03-13T10:15:00.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10965" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2022-03-13T15:03:23.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Ken Graham&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello everyone, my name is Ken Graham. I am nominating myself for the position of a moderator on this exciting community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a moderator on two other sites at the present moment, thus I am would be willing to try and be at service to the community here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2022-03-13T15:03:23.793" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T15:03:23.793" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2022-03-13T15:03:23.793" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-13T18:37:12.777" Score="3" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope that this question is not too far off-topic for this stack, but I was hoping to make a custom shaped pillow for back-sleeping that is molded to the shape of my head. I aiming for something that resembles the middle section of this commercially available pillow:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaWaH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaWaH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm going for is a hollow for the back of the head and a bridge for the neck. I don't need the side platforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've toyed around with different ideas for taking a mold of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I first thought of making a 3D scan of my head and then 3D printing that scan, but that seems like overdoing things in bad a Mission Impossible kind of way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I thought perhaps an easier low-tech idea would be to use plaster of Paris to make the mold: I would fill a large container with plaster of Paris, cover the top with gauze, and then I'd lean in and stay motionless for however long it takes it to set. The last part seems the most problematic, however, since I imagine that the set time for a large amount of plaster of Paris is much longer than if you have it out in thin strips that can easily aerate. I'd have to lie there motionless for hours or risk making a bad cast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm pretty much stuck at this step: casting a mold of my head. I imagine (hope) that this is the most difficult part. After that I plan to create the negative of that cast in foam, which I expect would pose fewer problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what would be the best way to go about this, with or without plaster of Paris?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12679" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T19:11:10.073" Title="Making a Custom-Shape Pillow for Back Sleeping" Tags="|material-selection|casting|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2022-03-13T19:11:10.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can create a basic shape (like the middle section in the picture in your post) out of styrofoam or another material, use that to fill up said container, and only use plaster of Paris to get the particulars of the shape of your head. That way the plaster will dry quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please make sure your position while lying on your back is right, however — you don't want to find out after a few nights that your neck is at a wrong angle and have to redo the project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T19:11:10.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10942" CreationDate="2022-03-13T23:07:40.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a bone folder (aka paper creaser) to me. A plastic version though, not actual bone. I've got one that's similar in bright orange, although mine doesn't have the notch near the  tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It definitely comes under 'other crafting items&amp;quot; rather than yarn related though. It should be blunt, because they're used for making creases in paper without puncturing it, so that the paper can be folded more easily. Think book binding, card making etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I'm not surprised it showed up in a bunch of unrelated crafting stuff; they're slippery critters, prone to wandering off and reappearing somewhere else entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11755" LastActivityDate="2022-03-13T23:07:40.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10970" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2022-03-14T00:18:07.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;fixer1234&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi.  I go by fixer1234.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a retired engineer and life-long crafter and hobbyist.  I've been active on the Stack Exchange for 7-1/2 years and discovered Arts &amp;amp; Crafts 2-1/2 years ago.  I love this gem of a site.  I've always been active in community moderation on the sites I frequent (often before stuff gets into the review queues)--curating content, meta discussions, and helping new users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-03-14T00:18:07.890" LastActivityDate="2022-03-14T00:18:07.890" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2022-03-14T00:18:07.890" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-14T15:42:45.450" Score="3" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a small plaster jar, and I want to paint it the same color as the wood table. My question is, can I use Jotun Woodshield Exterior Stain on the raw plaster jar; will (this) wood stain stick on plaster? If not, what is the best paint for plaster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jotun.com/pk/en/b2c/products/exterior/woodshield-exterior-stain.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the product description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not need it to be 100% as the table color, but at least close to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12594" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-03-15T06:34:26.970" LastActivityDate="2022-03-15T06:34:26.970" Title="Can I use Jotun Woodshield on a plaster jar?" Tags="|painting|paint|plaster|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10972" CreationDate="2022-03-14T21:37:46.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll suggest something to try on some scrap plaster to see if you can come close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stain brings out the wood's grain because the surface varies in porosity; more porous areas get darker.  Plaster is uniform and extremely porous, way more porous than wood.  Stain adds color to the wood's own color, plaster starts as a white background.  So just applying stain to plaster won't match the color on wood.  The only way to potentially come close would be to experiment along the following lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First seal the plaster surface with an almost clear finish that approximates the color of the bare wood.  One way to do this is by adding a tiny amount of &amp;quot;natural&amp;quot; wood stain to a compatible clear finish.  Use a glossy-type finish because you want only the finish's resin, not the fine powder that is added to create a matte finish.  You will also probably need to dilute the finish with an appropriate solvent to a low viscosity that absorbs well into the plaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply a light coat of this to the test plaster and let it soak in and dry.  You will need to be very methodical in trying varying ratios of stain to finish, viscosities of the finish, and amount applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always apply another coat of the mixture for more color and better sealing, but you can't undo too much.  You will need some amount of sealing everywhere, but a coarse brush might provide a little better simulation of the color variation of a wood surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is for the finish to be absorbed and almost seal the plaster.  You might try multiple light applications where you wipe off any excess that doesn't immediately absorb, and let the coat dry before applying the next.  If some does not absorb and leaves a shiny surface, lightly buff it to matte with very fine grit sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have an almost-sealed plaster surface with a color that matches the bare wood, apply a light coat of the stain and immediately wipe off the excess.  Let it dry.  If the color is too light, apply another coat in a similar fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the color comes out too dark, you might be able to lighten it a little by using very fine grit sandpaper to lightly buff the surface.  Another method that might help is to use an appropriate solvent (as described on the container for cleanup), on a rag and wipe off some of the stain.  This may be hard to judge because the cleaning solvent and stain is likely to be partially absorbed into the sealed plaster and can appear darker until it is fully dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of variables, so to get it right will require a lot of scrap plaster and experimentation to perfect the process before using it on the actual piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike with wood, most of the stain will remain a thin surface coating.  If the piece will be handled, you may need to apply some type of protective finish coat after the stain is fully dry.  This will probably be another area requiring experimentation to avoid the finish coat dissolving some of the previous coatings and creating unexpected patterns or artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-03-14T21:37:46.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10976" CreationDate="2022-03-18T12:33:02.420" Score="6" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a new hobby in braiding threads using the traditional Japanese technique of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumihimo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kumihimo&lt;/a&gt;. I started braiding with the typical foam Kumihimo disk, which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtjRKm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtjRKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of a white foam disk with 32 indentations around the edge&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that one hand always has to hold the disk, while the other hand can grab a single strand to braid it. You also need to push the strands into the little cuts along the edge to hold them tight. If a strand slips out, the tension goes crazy and the braid gets really bumpy and uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional tool to braid Kumihimo is a wooden &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marudai&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marudai&lt;/a&gt;, which stands on legs and frees both hands to braid simultaneously. In addition to that increase of speed, the weighted bobbins also create even tension on all strands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U2yMV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U2yMVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of a wooden stool with a wide hole in the center; 16 colorful threads hanging evenly spaced around the edge and disappearing into the hole, where they form a braid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Marudai you can buy on the internet are quite expensive, so I want to make my own. Unfortunately I'm not good at woodworking and can't build one for myself. How can I easily craft one and what is the best material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-03-18T15:20:56.523" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T15:57:53.850" Title="How to make a cheap DIY Marudai for Kumihimo?" Tags="|tool-fabrication|braiding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10974" CreationDate="2022-03-18T12:33:02.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a Marudai out of any material that is very smooth and doesn't snag the threads. Any smooth metal, plastic, glass, glazed ceramic, or varnished wood can work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important feature of a Marudai is the &amp;quot;well&amp;quot; - the slight depression around the center hole. The well gives the strands freedom to move while still keeping them under even tension. There are several DIY Marudai out there made of laser cut plywood or acryllic sheets or an old wooden stool with a hole drilled in the center, but all of them lack the well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strands form the braid in the space between the point where they touch each other (in the center of the Marudai) and the point where they drag the most against the surface. If the entire surface is flat (lots of drag) and there's only a small hole, that limits the space where the braid is actually formed, makes the braid uneven and not tight enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal recommendation is: If you cannot craft a Marudai with a well, craft one with a really big hole instead. A cross-section of some different shapes of Marudai would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tMm37.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tMm37.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gave me the idea for my own DIY Marudai is this contraption of a lamp shade and a wooden plate by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weavershand.com/kimprov.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ruth MacGregor Warnick&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrHpR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrHpR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another variant is this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/QHjUK8xRPW4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marudai by  T3hJones&lt;/a&gt;. It has a wooden plate with a high rim that mimics the traditional well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lix0J.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lix0J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen people use a metal flower stand with a smooth, even rim, but I can't find the picture anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I use this really big flower pot with a protruding rim. Here it is with my current braid and some colored stickers to help me not cross the wrong strands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guiAP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guiAP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my bobbins (aka &amp;quot;Tama&amp;quot;) I cut a rubber tube into pieces long enough to push 2 metal nuts inside. Since my threads kept slipping off the sides, I added a rim of hot glue. They aren't pretty, but very practical and the rubber and hot glue dampen the clacking sound when they hit each other (or the flower pot) during braiding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oNBLo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oNBLo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left are the raw components of each of my bobbins: a piece of rubber tubing and 2 metal nuts.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In the center is the assembled bobbin with a rim of hot glue. The weight of each bobbin is 30 grams, which is less than traditional Tama but works really well for me.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Right are some spare bobbins tied together to form the counter weight that is clipped to the braid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T12:33:02.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10974" CreationDate="2022-03-18T15:57:53.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the answer from Elmy, one could also consider to contract to have the Marudai created on a 3D printer. The traditional form would be relatively straightforward to design from an even barely competent designer (yours truly) and barely a blink for a skilled model creator. By printing in ABS plastic, hot acetone vapor smoothing removes the 3D printed layer lines and creates a shiny uniform surface, to prevent thread snags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched for &amp;quot;3D printed kumihimo&amp;quot; which resulted in a number of returns for models representing the &amp;quot;poor&amp;quot; design referenced in Elmy's answer, otherwise I would have posted links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum size of a model depends on the printer bed, but using joining methods, especially when combined with hot acetone vapor smoothing, my limit would be a circle nearly 600 mm in diameter (~24 inches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also discovered that there are a number of laser cut marudai available on the internet, also of the poor design. A better solution would be the 3D printed good version combined with a laser cut stand/support. The prices of the laser cut versions are a fraction of the &amp;quot;traditional&amp;quot; ones I found on eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-03-18T15:57:53.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10978" CreationDate="2022-03-19T04:12:41.063" Score="4" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thirty years ago, I bought some chairs that are still my favorites, but they are in need of repair.  The chair's supporting structure consists of a canvas sling that hangs from a bent wood frame.  A large leather cushion fastens into the sling.  I found a picture of a chair with essentially the same supporting structure (the cushion, not shown, is different, but the chair is probably from the same manufacturer).  The supporting structure looks basically like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLB9z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uLB9z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/shop/RetroAppeal?ref=simple-shop-header-name&amp;amp;listing_id=642723877&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RetroAppeal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sling is a canvas &amp;quot;bucket&amp;quot;.  The four corners of the wooden frame hold metal hanger loops.  Each corner of the sling has a heavy leather support that wraps around the metal hanger loop and is sewn to the sling.  Here's a close-up of one such corner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TYi5c.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TYi5c.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That picture is actually from a matching foot stool, which doesn't get any stress.  So that leather is still in good condition.  On the chairs, the leather got stretched and cracked where it was puilled against the metal hanger loop, and the leather started to tear at the edges (sorry, no pictures of the damage, but it is easy to visualize what happens to the leather supports when you try to pull the metal hanger loops through them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sling corners are two layers of heavy leather (i.e., wrapped top and bottom), over several layers of heavy canvas.  The right way to fix it would be to replace the leather corners.  I don't have the tools or ability to do that, and don't have ready access to any kind of shop that could do it for me.  Even if I could locate such a shop, the repair would not be cost effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corners are heavy-duty materials under a lot of stress.  The leather is stretched and has surface cracks.  On many loops, about 10% of the width has torn.  Once it starts to tear, the leather quickly loses strength, and fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to leave the leather corners in place and repair them that would have strength and durability similar to the original construction?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came up with a solution that I'll share as an answer in case anyone else runs into a similar situation.  But I would also welcome any other solutions readers may have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-03-19T04:12:41.063" Title="How to repair leather supports on a sling chair?" Tags="|restoration|leather|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10977" CreationDate="2022-03-19T04:12:41.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution I came up with was to leave the leather in place and cover it with something equally strong and durable to handle the stress and wear and tear.  I used strong cotton webbing that is available in various colors, with the same width as the inside of the metal loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The webbing wraps around the loop and extends the full length of the leather, top and bottom, to provide a lot of surface area.  I used E-6000 adhesive to glue the webbing to the leather, with lots of clamping to ensure it tightly conformed to the shape.  A cross section of the repaired corner looks like this (not to scale):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oGrhH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oGrhH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saturated the bulging portion around the metal hanger (complete circumference), with CA glue (low-viscosity super glue).  It soaks through, absorbs, and hardens quickly in contact with cotton, creating a hard, rigid, really tough tube around the loop (without changing the appearance of the webbing).  This won't tear or break from the stress.  The rest of the webbing provides a lot of surface area for glueing, with the stress going in the direction that the glue joint is the strongest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a picture of a repaired corner.  Black was the best webbing color I was able to access on short notice.  Very little of the webbing is visible when the cushion is in place.  I repaired all of the corners so they matched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xebLP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xebLP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-03-19T04:12:41.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-20T01:32:36.697" Score="2" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive got a tub of Imperial brand &lt;em&gt;Castable Refractory Cement&lt;/em&gt; and I'm wondering if it's able to withstand molten silver? Perhaps in casting jewelry or as a crusible.&#xA;The online product details are as follows;&#xA;&amp;quot;Repairs bricks and linings. Fast setting and non-asbestos. Can be cast into custom shapes or as one solid stove bed. Can be used indoors and outdoors. Resists temperatures up to 1204 Deg. C (2200 Deg. F).&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12704" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-03-20T16:27:45.200" LastActivityDate="2022-03-20T16:27:45.200" Title="High temp castable refractory cement ok for molten silver?" Tags="|material-selection|metalworking|jewelry|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-20T11:36:47.927" Score="6" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an experienced seamstress who recently started knitting.  After countless hours of fitting woven garments, it's a bit of an understatement to say that fitting a knitted sweater is giving me a lot of anxiety.  The reason for this is that I have very forward set shoulders.  This causes the shoulder seam to run towards the back.  In extreme cases, the shoulder back not quite wide enough and there is too much fabric across the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a threadbare RTW T-shirt.  You can see the diagonal creases along the back caused by my shoulder pulling it forward.  I have identical T-shirts that I wear less often that don't fit this well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SaHhL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SaHhL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In flat patterns, the simple adjustment is to redraw the shoulder seam by removing a piece from the front and giving it to the back.  The front shoulder ends up with a steeper slope, while the front has a flatter slope.  The sleeve cap is also shifted to the front.  This usually makes it impossible for vertical repeats to match at the shoulder seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZeNXS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZeNXS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mellysews.com/shoulder-fitting-adjustments-when-sewing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;via Melly Sews&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a woven shirt I made with a forward shoulder adjustment.  The shoulder seam runs along the top of my shoulders.  Sadly, those vertical stripes don't match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/82MvS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/82MvS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to RTW, the shoulder seam often fits worse on knitted garments than it does with woven garments.  Here is a Croft &amp;amp; Barrow sweater that fits all kinds of wrong in the shoulder area.  It doesn't help that the shoulder seam sits too far back even at the base of the neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/62GiA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/62GiA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at quite a lot of information regarding fitting knitted sweaters, but I can't find anyone discussing this type of adjustment.  Would I go about this the same way I would with a woven fabric?  Are there any sort of issues I should be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12707" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-09T10:54:56.957" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T08:33:49.860" Title="Forward Shoulder Adjustment in Knitted Sweaters" Tags="|knitting|clothing|clothing-fitting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10979" CreationDate="2022-03-20T16:01:39.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Silver melting at 1762 F plus some superheat; The product should tolerate the temperature if the info is correct. But a crucible also needs some strength, do you want to guess if the material would be strong enough? As commented by @fixer1234, intended use may be to cover fire brick. I would get a manufactured crucible like silicon carbide or ceramic. It would be messy if a crucible failed while holding molten silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2022-03-20T16:01:39.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10829" CreationDate="2022-03-20T21:02:51.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water and oil are both problem liquids.  Water-based finishes (not water colors, which are inherently unsuitable, but acrylics, for example), improve their water resistance as they dry and cure, but they can often degrade if submerged in water for a very long time.  Oil can affect the adhesion of the paint, and can break down some finishes over very long exposure.  The model repeatedly moving through the liquid would also help to strip off any degraded finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image used in the example looks like the colors are in layers.  If that will mostly be the case, you could cast the model in layers using colored resin, which would avoid the problems of adding a finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are areas that don't lend themselves to that, you could paint those with colored resin of the same type, or another resin or adhesive designed to  bond with it (you can add colorants to resins and adhesives).  Use a material that integrates with the model, or forms a bond as strong as the resin, itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the same resin is ideal; otherwise, think in terms of materials that will weld themselves to the surface and can be made the color you want, rather than looking at paint or finishes designed to be added decoration.  For example, there are some epoxies that are formulated to form a really strong bond with many plastic resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use proper surface preparation.  It can also help to include shallow recesses in the mold for the &amp;quot;paint&amp;quot; spots so that the paint spot doesn't have a raised edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-03-20T21:16:36.610" LastActivityDate="2022-03-20T21:16:36.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-24T16:16:01.497" Score="4" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I gather up some fallen leaves in the autumn time, and I want to turn them into colourful decorations. The first step must be to get them properly dried out for further processing like painting etc. &lt;strong&gt;What is the best way to dry tree leaves?&lt;/strong&gt; Leave them in the sun, put them in the oven, some other method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care about keeping their natural colours; I just want the dried leaves to be &lt;strong&gt;sturdy&lt;/strong&gt; enough that they don't crumble at a touch, still &lt;strong&gt;flat&lt;/strong&gt;, and preferably a &lt;strong&gt;fast&lt;/strong&gt;/efficient drying process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer varies according to climate (e.g. temperature or humidity of the surrounding environment), then I'd be interested in all different answers depending on the possible climates - let's make this post useful for as many people as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2022-03-24T18:21:16.197" LastActivityDate="2022-03-24T20:50:42.150" Title="How can I efficiently dry tree leaves?" Tags="|plants|drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10985" CreationDate="2022-03-24T20:50:42.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have dried plants and leaves by just putting them between leaves in a sketch- or notebook. Acid-free paper likely yields better results, and - especially with specimens that contain a lot of moisture - an extra layer of a more absorbing paper between the specimen and the leaves of the sketchbook is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For thick leaves, a thick absorbent and soft material is favorable, as it will keep the shape better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a flower press, or quite easily make one out of two sheets of wood and four wing screws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECEPz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECEPz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.protecttheplanet.co.uk/the-potting-shed/large-flower-press.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will, however, not prevent those beautiful autumn colours from fading.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The colours of flowers remain in relatively good condition, but I think the process that leaves go through cannot be stopped by drying them (that's what happens naturally, as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm posting this as the additional info points out colour is not really an issue.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have in the meantime read up on a potential solution that retains the colours, at least for longer, and provide the leaves with more strength. TBC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-03-24T20:50:42.150" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2022-03-27T11:14:27.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware (I don't knit sweaters), you should treat your knitted fabric like a woven one. That means, if you already have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/blocks/measuring-for-blocks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bodice block&lt;/a&gt; that fits your shoulders well, try fitting the swater into this block as you knit. That can mean increaseing or decreasing rows along the shoulder in a different pattern than given in the original pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you knit with a thick yarn or very loosely, it could lead to uneven edges or stretched stitches along the seam, since the lose knit has more opportunity to move and stretch. This problem shouldn't arise in a tight pattern with thin yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to completey change the way the sleeves are attached to the bodice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Reglan Sleeve doesn't have any shoulder seam at all:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I7wz3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I7wz3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://sheepandstitch.com/the-everyday-raglan-an-easy-beginner-pattern/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Saddle Shoulder has a wide strip of fabric where the shoulder seam would be. That makes it more forgiving.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sH3nz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sH3nz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://stolenstitches.com/blogs/knit-basics/the-basics-of-saddle-shoulder-construction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source and instructions&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A yoked sweater is knit in the round and has no shoulder seam at all:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dFx2e.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dFx2e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yarnspirations.com/lookbook-2019-10-yoke-sweaters.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm not affiliated with any of the linked products or shops)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-03-27T11:14:27.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-28T07:20:52.770" Score="6" ViewCount="1786" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have some real tree leaves, gathered in the autumn and &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/10985/232&quot;&gt;dried out&lt;/a&gt; in preparation for using them as decorations (e.g. hung around the house or stuck to the walls). If the natural colours of autumn aren't bright enough, or have dulled during the drying process, then I might want to paint the leaves to make them more bright and cheerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What kind of paint works on dried tree leaves?&lt;/strong&gt; If they need any kind of preparation before being painted, e.g. covering them in some kind of sealant or undercoat, then that counts as part of this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="232" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T14:04:00.177" Title="What kind of paint to use for tree leaves?" Tags="|paint|plants|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10988" CreationDate="2022-03-28T08:43:14.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a painting surface, dried leaves aren't too different from old, brittle paper.  I think pretty much any kind of paint chemistry will work with leaves, although water-based paint may be more likely to curl or warp the leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger issue is how to apply it without breaking the leaves.  The safest application method is probably spraying it on.  The paint will add a little strength to the leaves once it dries if there's a good coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the leaves and the paint, you might want to paint both sides to avoid curling or breaking from the stress.  Experiment with a few leaves.  If you collected a good supply, and only some of the leaves don't stay flat and intact with the paint you choose, you could save some time and paint expense by painting just one side, using the good ones, and tossing the bad ones.  After all, leaves grow on trees.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T08:43:14.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10988" CreationDate="2022-03-28T14:03:47.070" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spray paint is definitely the best approach due to the delicate nature of the leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick drying acrylic spray paint works for me with sprigs. The leaves need to be free of loose material like dust, before painting. You can do this by gently brushing with a paintbrush, or on a cool slow setting using a hairdryer).A quick drying clear lacquer should also work if it's acrylic. The acrylic forms a plastic coat that seals, protects and strengthens. It has the advantage of drying very quickly which is a property you want, to hopefully avoid the leaves getting curly or sitting around damp. I usually give a couple of coats to sprigs. You may get some nice patterns as a by-product to spraying flat on paper/fabric etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12741" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T14:03:47.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10988" CreationDate="2022-03-28T14:04:00.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a number of different paint media that can create very different and interesting effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acrylic paints&lt;/strong&gt; are probably the cheapest, most available and obvious paints to choose. They stay slightly flexible after drying, so changes in the leaves' shape due to moisture shouldn't crack them. ModPodge mixed with paints would also work and give the paint more transparency, if that is desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil paints&lt;/strong&gt; could probably create interesting effects, especially if you use them like a glaze to enhance the natural color instead of completely covering it. The disadvantage is that oil paints take a long time to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil pastels&lt;/strong&gt; dry a lot quicker but are a lot firmer. You'd need thick and sturdy leaves to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enkaustik&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Encaustic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is a technique where you melt colored wax onto paper. You could use the same technique to &amp;quot;paint&amp;quot; wax on leaves and it even works well with cheap crayons. This will probably work best on very pale leaves (because the wax is thin enough to show the paper or leaf in spots) and it can protect the fragile leaves from damage. The disadvantage is that the thin layer of wax can crack easily if not handled carefully. And make sure to put a sheet of baking paper between your iron / hot plate and the leaves to catch any spills. Or melt some wax of different colors on this paper and dip the leaves into the molten wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood stains&lt;/strong&gt; would probably soak into the fibers of the leaves and look more natural than acrylic paints (if you use red wood stain). If the leaves don't have a uniform consistency, you could get patchy results, though. And if the leaves have a waxy surface the stain won't work at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spray paints&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10989/6316&quot;&gt;as mentioned by fixer 1234&lt;/a&gt;) are very good at creating a very smooth and even coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use any water colors or aquarelle paints because they probably won't stick very well to the leaves and there's a higher risk that they crack and flake off if the leaves bend or rub together after painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-03-28T14:04:00.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-03-29T04:03:09.063" Score="6" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandfather passed away recently. My grandma took a rose from his burial plot after we laid him in the earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to find a way to preserve it for her or use it in some kind of other craft that she can keep around the house as a memoir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas are appreciated. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have very little supplies but can probably acquire necessary equipment if the task isn’t too cumbersome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2022-03-29T20:00:48.623" LastActivityDate="2022-03-29T20:00:48.623" Title="What's a good way to preserve live roses?" Tags="|preservation|flowers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10992" CreationDate="2022-03-29T06:13:05.610" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to dry the rose as soon as possible, before it wilts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the air in your home is dry and warm, hang the rose upside down over a heater or in front of an AC outlet by a piece of yarn you tie to the stem. Do not hang it in direct sunlight or it'll lose its color. Spraying the flower with ordinary hair spray before drying it helps keep all the petals in place. The petals will shrivel up a little bit, but the overall shape of the flower will be well preserved and the flower won't bee too delicate or brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the air is cool or humid, dry the rose by surrounding it in a desiccant. There are different desiccants that work for this purpose, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silica crystals. Can be bought in bulk online or in craft stores. If you're lucky you can get them in a gardening shop. Drying time: 5 days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A mix of equal parts of borax and cornmeal in a bowl and add 2 - 3 tablespoons of non-iodized salt per quart of mix. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ehow.com/how_5622801_dry-flowers-salt.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source: eHow&lt;/a&gt;) Drying time: 5 - 15 days (needs to be checked every few days).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry fine sand. I suggest using the kind sold for bird cages. Sift the sand and make sure it's completely dry. Drying time: varies (has to be checked every few days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove all leaves from the stem. Take a big plastic or paper cup and a knife with a sharp point and cut a little X into the center of the bottom. Push the stem through that slit until all of the flower head is inside the cup plus half an inch / 2 cm free room on top. Then &lt;strong&gt;slowly&lt;/strong&gt; pour your desiccant into &lt;strong&gt;the side of the cup&lt;/strong&gt; (not directly on the flower) and let it pile up around the flower. Once the desiccant surrounds the flower head, gently sprinkle desiccant directly over the flower head until it's entirely                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          covered. Let it sit that way for the time required by your desiccant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying with a desiccant can make the flowers extremely delicate and brittle and you must be utterly careful and gently whenever handling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the rose is completely dried, you could put it in a high glass display dome like this type (&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://fioreatelier.com/preserved-flower-glass-dome-with-led-wedding-001&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to image source and shop&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not affiliated in any way. This is just one of many examples of flower display domes&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hn3q5l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hn3q5l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could embed it in epoxy resin. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt; my personal experience with epoxy to preserve valuable items is that you might be disappointed. You have exactly one try to make it right. If it doesn't work, you could try again with another rose, but it will never be that special rose again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy will yellow after some time. Low quality, cheap epoxies can yellow immediately, high quality ones will do after some months in direct sunlight or after some years kept out of direct sunlight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without a vacuum chamber it's impossible not to trap air bubbles between the flower petals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy does change the color of dried flowers. Red color will be bleached and white will get a yellow or brown tint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-03-29T06:13:05.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10997" CreationDate="2022-03-29T20:41:17.240" Score="3" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;An old question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/170/is-there-a-way-to-determine-the-fiber-content-of-a-yarn-if-ive-lost-the-label&quot;&gt;Is there a way to determine the fiber content of a yarn if I've lost the label?&lt;/a&gt;, asked about identifying the fiber content of mystery yarn.  The answer it received described a number of simple tests that identify broad categories of fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For analyzing crime scene evidence, there are a number of forensic tools that can identify not only the exact type of fiber, but sometimes even the manufacturer.  I imagine some of this work involves things like chemical tests that could not readily be done at home.  However, much of it is as simple as looking at the fibers under a microscope and comparing that to pictures of different fibers.  A microscope or strong magnifier is something many people have ready access to, or a camera or phone camera can often be used for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there forensic tools, like simple microscopic examination, that can be done with basic equipment to which most people would have access, that would reliably and specifically identify the fiber content of mystery yarn or fabric?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarification, I'm generally aware of the nature of the forensic tests, but not the specific details.  For example, I don't know whether a specialized microscope is needed for microscopic examination.  I'm hoping readers very familiar with fiber identification or forensic methods can identify/describe techniques that would likely be accessible in a home setting to specifically identify fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-03-29T21:50:12.023" LastActivityDate="2022-03-31T06:59:38.637" Title="Are there &quot;forensic&quot; tools that can typically be done at home to identify fiber content of yarn or fabric?" Tags="|material-identification|technique-identification|yarn|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2769" CreationDate="2022-03-30T03:34:32.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The existing answers all seem to focus on stability and longevity.  That's all true, but I think a more fundamental reason is suitability to the task of providing specific, desired colors where you want them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dyes are transparent.  They add their color to the color of the surface they're applied to.  You never get the pure color of the dye, the color is always affected by the surface color (including white), no matter how much dye you apply.  The color is also affected by other characteristics of the surface, like how absorbant it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pigments are opaque.  As long the surface is covered by the pigment, the color will be exactly the color of the pigment.  Pigments allow you to get precise and predictable colors regardless of the surface you're painting on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can observe the same issues with inkjet printers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pigment-based inks produce saturated, vibrant colors that look like the ink, regardless of the paper (although the overall appearance will be affected by the color of the paper that shows through any gaps).  A person could paint with pigment-based ink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dye-based inks can look good on optimized media like photo paper, but even the best inks and printers can produce very disappointing results on regular paper.  Also, dye-based inks don't lend themselves to painting by humans because the liquid form often don't look like the end result.  The inks are calibrated so the printer can use mathematical formulas to apply the right amount of the right inks to produce a specific color.  But using the inks to produce a desired color manually by eye requires trial and error on disposable duplicate media.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-03-30T17:46:43.010" LastActivityDate="2022-03-30T17:46:43.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="690" CreationDate="2022-03-30T03:36:08.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure it's the best answer, but I found a research paper by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Iacopo-Osticioli/publication/259614511_Laser_removal_of_mold_and_foxing_stains_from_paper_artifacts_Preliminary_investigation/links/00b4952f8909fbf2df000000/Laser-removal-of-mold-and-foxing-stains-from-paper-artifacts-Preliminary-investigation.pdf?origin=figuresDialog_download&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ciofini et. al.&lt;/a&gt; to remove ('bleach') mold and foxing from paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In it, they use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a QS Nd:YAG (532 nm) laser,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;operating at an energy of 200 mJ/cm^2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with a frequency of 2 Hz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and 500 pulses per cm^2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with significant effect, and without breaking fibers nor discoloring them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTz0E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTz0E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of laser is apparently readily available, too, as the 532nm wavelength is used by aestheticians for tattoo removal.  Even a cursory search for &amp;quot;QS Nd:YAG 532 nm laser&amp;quot; will return many many hits on eBay, google/DDG shopping, Digikey, DHgate, and more.  Because of that, I don't think it serves anyone for me to link to sponsored/advertised products, esp. given that direct links will probably break in the flow of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As related trivia, these lasers are green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="63" LastEditDate="2022-04-05T19:48:12.500" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T19:48:12.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10994" CreationDate="2022-03-30T11:55:20.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most people at home a &lt;strong&gt;burn test is still the most viable option to identify unknown fabrics and yarns&lt;/strong&gt;. With a little experience handling different types of fabric, it becomes &lt;strong&gt;easier to guess the fibers by look and feel&lt;/strong&gt; than to employ forensic methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forensic analyses use tools like microscopes with a much higher resolution than a phone camera can achieve (even with a gadget), polarized light, strong acids, infrared spectroscopy or gas chromatography. Also, from a forensic perspective the type of the fiber is often far less important than a comparison with a fiber from a different location that a suspect might have left there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 broad categories of fibers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Animal fibers (wool, silk, fur etc.) consist of proteins&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't absorb water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are covered in microscopic scales. Most fibers are 10 - 60 μm thick (1 micrometre = one millionth of a metre or 0.001 mm, or about 0.000039 inch), so you need a professional microscope to even see the scales.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plant fibers (cotton, linen, jute, hemp) consist of cellulose (a polymer made of glucose monomers) and include &amp;quot;regenerated fibers&amp;quot; (artificial fibers made from cellulose) like viscose and rayon&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Absorb water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can only be dissolved by a very strong acid (sulfuric acid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cellulose has a twist. Fibers of different plants can twist in different directions. Again, since fibers are microscopic, it's impossible for an amateur so see or test the twist of a single fiber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inorganic fibers (acrylic, polyester, nylon etc) consist of inorganic chemicals (mostly carbohydrates)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many can be easily dyed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have very regular diameters under magnification.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pcforensics.weebly.com/uploads/8/8/3/0/8830216/forensics_fiber_analysis.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forensics Fiber Analysis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.de/books?id=xQmkAgAAQBAJ&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;ots=RM8zmIWI-p&amp;amp;dq=identification%20fiber%20forensic&amp;amp;lr&amp;amp;hl=de&amp;amp;pg=PP1#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=identification%20fiber%20forensic&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Identification of Textile Fibers&lt;/a&gt; very interesting read with lists of characteristics of different fibers and microscopic images&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even found a Master’s thesis: &lt;a href=&quot;https://odr.chalmers.se/bitstream/20.500.12380/218483/1/218483.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Towards Recycling of Textile Fibers - Separation and Characterization of Textile Fibers and Blends&lt;/a&gt; by ANNA PETERSON. The chosen analytic methods are solid-state NMR [nuclear magnetic resonance] spectroscopy, IR [infra red] and Raman spectroscopy, none of which are doable by an amateur at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-03-31T06:59:38.637" LastActivityDate="2022-03-31T06:59:38.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11000" CreationDate="2022-03-31T09:10:55.693" Score="5" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a picture frame which has a transparent sheet fixed within it. This is placed on an easel, and the artist can physically see the target image through the transparent sheet. All they need to do is draw\trace the image onto the transparent sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-01T13:23:31.767" LastActivityDate="2022-04-01T13:23:31.767" Title="Does drawing on a transparent sheet what you can see behind it have a name?" Tags="|drawing|painting|technique-identification|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11001" CreationDate="2022-04-01T12:41:12.290" Score="4" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to cast epoxy resin on a pine cone, and used 1kg total (resin + hardener). I used around 3 drops of dye but the object is too dark now (and not see-through). Is there a way to somehow make it more transparent after it has hardened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctYRQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctYRQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LDQnU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LDQnU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/itouE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/itouE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12755" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-04-05T04:24:03.187" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T04:24:03.187" Title="Can you make epoxy resin art clearer (more transparent) after the object has dried?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|dye|transparency|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10998" CreationDate="2022-04-01T12:56:42.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The method or technique with which you copy a subject by following its lines with a pencil (or other tool) on the surface it appears on or behind is simply called &lt;strong&gt;tracing&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not familiar with the specific object you are referring to, but '&lt;strong&gt;tracing frame&lt;/strong&gt;' seems a viable term for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, easels with clear transparent &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly(methyl_methacrylate)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;acrylic&lt;/a&gt; sheets — as units — are also commercially available (seemingly mostly marketed to children).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can find these easily online by combining the word 'easel' with any of the acrylic brand names (Perspex, Plexiglas [e.g. '&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=perspex%20easel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;perspex easel&lt;/a&gt;']).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since acrylic sheets can be found in most (European) hardware stores, you can easily craft the item you are describing yourself.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For example, you can get wooden stretcher bars, as they can be bought in different lengths to accommodate the size of the sheet you'd like to use, and use them to frame the sheet, as it can be embedded by the ridges these stretchers have, so the sheet can easily be fastened (something like this):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xgkmh.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xgkmh.png&quot; alt=&quot;badly photoshopped image of 'acrylic sheet' on a wooden painting stretcher&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-04-01T12:56:42.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10999" CreationDate="2022-04-03T00:52:31.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagnostics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the pictures, it looks like the problem is transparency rather than darkness from too much dye.  In fact, the tinting is barely visible, so ignore my comment about trying to fade the dye color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the sides, it looks a bit translucent rather than transparent.  That could be from the dye causing cloudiness because it isn't compatible with the resin, or the resin surface being a little matte.  There are tiny spots scattered around that look clearer, which suggests it's the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top view looks much more transparent (also suggesting it's a surface issue), although it's very distorted.  The top surface is very uneven.  That suggests that the resin was disturbed after it started to gel and harden.  That very irregular surface would explain the distortion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cloud of microscopic air bubbles is another thing that can make the resin look translucent.  There are a lot of air bubbles at the top, but they are much larger than that.  If those weren't introduced by mixing, they may have been trapped in the pine cone, and didn't all escape before the resin started to harden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you repeat this, use much slower setting, less viscous resin.  Trickle it slowly outside the pine cone so the resin level rises slowly, allowing the air to escape as the resin flows into the nooks and crannies.  This kind of project would really benefit from a vacuum chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what to do now?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by washing it with alcohol, then soapy water in case what you're seeing is just a film of whatever you may have used as mold release.  As a further confirmation that the translucency is due to the surface, look at whether it's more transparent when the outside is wet.  If the problem is that the resin is cloudy, there's nothing you can do now.  But from the pictures, it doesn't look that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you confirm that it's a surface problem, you can either polish it, as Matt suggested, or coat it, as Elmy suggested.  But if the problem is the surface, it is extremely superficial.  Before tackling Elmy's suggestion, I would just try to buff it,  maybe start with one side to determine if that approach will be sufficient. I wouldn't even use sandpaper.  If just buffing with a cloth doesn't do it, try buffing it with a very mild abrasive like toothpaste to polish it, then rinse it and buff again with a dry cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T00:52:31.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10999" CreationDate="2022-04-04T05:00:28.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This cast was probably too high for this specific resin and &lt;strong&gt;due to the exothermic reaction the resin heated up so much that it boiled&lt;/strong&gt;. That's why there are gigantic air bubbles in it and the surface looks so distorted. You can see a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/M2UbPeOOri8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;demonstration of epoxy boiling in this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin is a complicated material to work with. For perfect results you want to mix very exact amounts of resin and hardener and you want it to set in a controlled way. Once the 2 components are mixed together, they start a chemical reaction that produces heat. At the same time, the reaction is accelerated by heat, which in turn produces even more heat. It gets out of control very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the temperature reaches a critical point, the resin starts bubbling and steaming like boiling water and it sets extremely fast (I've had a resin with 24 hours curing time bubble up on me and set in 1 hour once). This steam is very unhealthy and you should put the cast outside and leave it alone there immediately. It's lost anyways... Maybe put an upside-down bucket or anything over it so no animal or other person touches it or breathes in too much steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way around it is to &lt;strong&gt;cast several thinner layers one after the other cured.&lt;/strong&gt; Resin is a bad heat conductor, so you have to make sure that each layer is thin enough that it cannot even create too much heat. Whether the layers are horizontal or vertical doesn't matter. If you are careful with the amount of dye you cannot even see the separation between the layers. The safety data sheet of your resin should contain the maximum safe layer thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To improve the clarity of your cast&lt;/strong&gt; you have 2 options: either polish the resin to a mirror finish or coat it with a final coat of resin or clear varnish. Polishing is a lengthy procedure that requires much patience and experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much simpler and quicker fix is to pour a final layer of varnish or epoxy over it. You'll need to sand the existing surface with coarse sandpaper to make it even more rough, or the epoxy will pull away from some areas (which is very visible in the end). You'll need to put the pine cone on a stand where excess epoxy can drip off. And in my experience this works best with an epoxy as viscous as honey (so it doesn't flow off too quickly) or with UV resin you can cure quickly. Have some tool at hand with which to move the epoxy around to cover every spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final step: declare the side with the bubbles as the backside ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-04-04T11:06:14.060" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T11:06:14.060" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10247" CreationDate="2022-04-04T08:32:36.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Products that will do the job are labelled with terms like nippers, snips, sprue cutters/clippers, flush cutters, side cutting nippers/pliers, diagonal cutting pliers, and various other terms, often prefixed with the term &amp;quot;precision&amp;quot; to differentiate it from tools for larger applications.  There is a little variation in the design because they're optimized for different purposes.  You need to select the exact type of cutting head that you prefer for your task.  There are trade-offs between the various designs, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how easily they fit into where you need to cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;angle and position of the blades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how flush they cut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much leverage (handle length) and grip comfort you need in order to do the amount of cutting you do at one sitting without fatigue (maybe not too important if you can crack walnuts in your bare hands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;service life (I'll discuss below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing an online search on the various tool names will show the variety of designs available.  There are some obvious characteristics to filter on initially, like basic design and shape, and the description of what materials they are, and are not, designed to handle.  Ones that are designed to handle metal are sold for purposes such as metal sprue cutting, wire cutting, jewelry work, and electronic work like cutting component leads on circuit boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few not-so-obvious considerations for the blade design and construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cleanest, flushest cuts (and cuts in poorly accessible areas), will come from thin, low-profile, sharp blades.  Cuts on small, delicate parts require precision-mating blade edges, and the thinner, sharper, and longer the blades, the more precision is required.  There are some ramifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin, sharp blades have the least strength, are the most easily nicked, bent, and dulled, and generally experience the fastest wear.  They don't stay sharp and useful as long as cutting tools with a heavier-duty cutter that is not razor sharp, but relies somewhat on crushing the metal instead of just cutting it (but those tools leave burrs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the blade edge gets a little deformed spot, you may be able to do some cleanup, and sharpen that spot (although it will usually be weaker).  But because the blade edges need precision mating, there is generally little you can do to repair or sharpen them.  The tool lasts as long as it lasts and then becomes no longer useful for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The metal-cutting blades are available in various materials, like carbon steel with various hardening treatments, stainless steel, chrome-vanadium steel alloy, and tungsten carbide.  The harder the blade material, the harder the metal they can cut and the slower the blade will wear out.  Harder blades may also allow you to cut thicker metal pieces.  The material used is generally reflected in the tool price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting a small metal piece puts extreme pressure on the blade's cutting edges.  Even though the blade is harder than the material being cut, it still gets deformed and stressed, which eventually wears and chips the edge.  The hardest (and most expensive), blades also tend to be the most brittle and fragile.  So they let you cut harder metals and will stay sharper longer if you're careful and lucky, but they're also easier to damage, less repairable, and for damage that is repairable, it's harder to clean up to prolong the tool's usability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a huge range in price for these tools (more than an order of magnitude), from cheap ones to professional grade.  The professional-grade tools will let you cut harder, thicker metals, last longer, and perform well for longer.  But you will need to decide whether you can justify the price.  If you have a limited use for the tool, it may make sense to go with a cheaper one (that can do the job), that you consider disposable, which you replace as needed.  Don't expect that just because you spend a fortune on a professional grade nipper, that it will last a lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-04T16:28:14.020" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T16:28:14.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-05T22:09:14.557" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create a blend of thermochromic pigments, specifically a black pigment that becomes &amp;quot;colorless&amp;quot; at 100F and a red pigment that becomes &amp;quot;colorless&amp;quot; at 113F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My desired end result would be a blend that is black up until 100, then red from ~100-113, and &amp;quot;colorless&amp;quot; above that temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description of the product in question is that it turns a &amp;quot;translucent white&amp;quot;, and I'm not sure if that has the color of, say, coconut water, or something more or less transparent, and how much effect that would have on the red pigment (i.e., if it would turn pink/grayer). Also, would this depend on the medium they are dispersed in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the pigments I am looking at are reversible leuco dyes encapsulated in polymers ~ 3-5 microns thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12765" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T22:09:14.557" Title="Will mixing thermochromic pigments, of which one becomes transparent, result in a more faded color for the other?" Tags="|pigments|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-05T23:34:53.450" Score="21" ViewCount="5244" Body="&lt;p&gt;The RGB color model is supposed to describe how additive color works, and the CMY model how subtractive color works.  But a number of things don't add up, some even appearing to violate laws of physics.  Just a few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red, green, and blue are the only (additive) colors that cannot be created by mixing other colors.  What makes them primary colors, or even unique?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The RGB model says red light plus green light produces yellow light.  Each color has its own wavelength.  How can combining two wavelengths produce a third, all in the same wavelength ballpark?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White light is a collection of all the wavelengths of visible light.  Red, green, and blue light are just three wavelengths. How can just red, green, and blue create all the other wavelengths in white light?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the color model is based on physics principles of how light works, it seems like it ought to explain the full range of wavelengths used for vision in the animal kingdom.  That whole range should behave similarly.  Why does it describe how colors work only for the color range of human vision.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The equivalent question for CMY.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, why (and how) are RGB and CMY the primary colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-06T07:27:07.033" LastActivityDate="2022-04-09T02:56:28.610" Title="Why are RGB and CMY the primary colors?" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11005" CreationDate="2022-04-05T23:34:53.450" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; The RGB model isn't really a model of how light works.  It's a model of how our vision system processes color.  Red, green, and blue are like keys that manipulate our vision system; that's what makes them primary colors.  The creation and use of RGB colors &amp;quot;hacks&amp;quot; our vision system to create optical illusions of color that we can't distinguish from real color.  The answer explores the integral relationship between RGB and our vision system for an appreciation of why RGB are the primary colors.  CMY is an extrapolation of RGB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;RGB&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Color Vision&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color is how we perceive different light wavelengths.  Virtually all of the characteristics of how colors interact are defined by how our vision system processes and perceives color.  So let's start with color vision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visible light is a continuum of wavelengths.  We need an efficient way to process the near-infinite color information that bombards us in real-time.  Nature has come up with a solution.  Our vision system performs some simplifications and abstractions.  It reduces color to a &amp;quot;shorthand&amp;quot; representation, which is what our brain then uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How it works and why RGB are primary colors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our eyes have three kinds of photoreceptors for color vision (cones).  They react to short, medium, or long wavelengths of light, and their sensitivities overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KPHj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KPHj.png&quot; alt=&quot;image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Cone-fundamentals-with-srgb-spectrum.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;source&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the sensitivity curves don't evenly divide the color spectrum, with one type sensitive to blue, one to green, and one to red.  In fact, the medium and long wavelength cones almost (but not quite), completely overlap. At the far ends of the spectrum, it is mainly one kind of cone that is stimulated.  For most of the spectrum, a given wavelength stimulates either two or three kinds of cones to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each type of cone will react to a broad range of colors, but can't tell what color light stimulated it.  Any wavelength it is sensitive to will stimulate it, but the closer the wavelength is to the cone's sensitivity peak, the more it will be stimulated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your vision system interprets this by comparing the output signals of the three kinds of cones to each other to deduce what color light would have produced that combination of reactions.  The result is translated to a color representation, which is what we perceive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red, green, and blue are like code keys that trigger perception of a given color.  Their ability to trigger a whole gamut of color perceptions that mirror our experience with real color is what makes them primary colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Could different primary colors work?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no.  A longer explanation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color (your experience of it), is what your vision system says it is, and it behaves as your vision system is designed.  Any other primary color scheme won't produce the same result when processed by your vision system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason is that, in part, externally created RGB output works through optical illusions, tricking your vision system based on how your cones work and how their output is interpreted (more explanation later).  To do that, any color system needs to mirror how your vision system works, including the sensitivity profiles of the cones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason is that RGB is a simplification.  Color information that isn't needed to perceive color is discarded (more explanation later).  There are holes in the color information that don't usually affect you.  A different primary color scheme will have a different set of holes, which won't align with how your vision system processes color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RGB vs. Vision System&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In nature, color is a linear progression of wavelengths, not a color wheel.  Red, green, and blue are simply three colors that can be combined independent of the color spectrum, so the linear nature of the spectrum becomes irrelevant.  That allows treating them as a color wheel, and representing colors that don't exist as a wavelength in the visible spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, blue light is at one end of the visible sprectrum, and red light is at the other.  There is no wavelength for magenta.  But magenta can be represented with the RGB information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our vision system normally provides good color perception if it is interpretting the color of real objects illuminated with broad-spectrum light.  But if we artificially create colors or illumination using RGB, some strange things can happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RGB electronic displays don't really reproduce the colors reflected off the original, illuminated object.  They produce optical illusions that your vision system interprets as the intended color.  Your vision system can't differentiate whether it is seeing normal light or RGB.  That allows coding of &amp;quot;misinformation&amp;quot; to trick your vision system.  In this case, we're using it as a benefit.  (I'll cover some examples below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you illuminate with RGB light, it can mess up colors and illustrate the holes in the color information.  Although the light can look white, the wavelengths needed to reflect the color of objects may be missing or limited, so objects can look miscolored or dark.  That's why the color rendering index was created for light bulbs, as @ChrisH mentioned in a comment.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYbdx4I7STg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; linked by @eyeballfrog in a comment does a great job illustrating the difference between true white light and RGB white, and the effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examples of how external RGB output can manipulate your brain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brain deals with an abstraction of reality.  If necessary, it extrapolates what a color combination should look like, even if you have never seen that combination in real life.  For example, yellow and blue light combine to produce white, so you can never see the (additive) color yellow-blue in real life.  But if you view yellow light in one eye and blue light in the other, you can trick your brain into inventing the color yellow-blue (which looks like a combination of what yellow and blue each look like, not green).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can you create white light by combining only red, green, and blue light?  You don't.  It's an optical illusion.  If you provide your eyes with red, green, and blue light, your vision system reacts with the same response as to white light, so your brain interprets it as white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can mixing red light and green light produce yellow light?  It doesn't, it's another optical illusion.  The medium and long wavelength cones are sensitive to ranges of color that straddle the yellow wavelength.  Yellow light triggers both kinds of cones, and that ratio of activity is interpreted as having been caused by yellow light.  But the raw signal that is being interpretted is that both the medium and long wavelength cones have been stimulated.  Instead of yellow light, those two cones can be similarly stimulated by the right combination of red light plus green light.  The cones don't know what part of the light spectrum did it, and your vision system interprets it as yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What makes RGB the &amp;quot;cone code&amp;quot;?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll circle back to elaborate on what makes RGB the cone code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vision system deciphers color via how the cones respond to it.  It is able to discern and differentiate every color in the visible spectrum because every color stimulates a unique pattern of cone responses.  It also isn't a mix and match, where the response patterns are unique but&amp;quot;random&amp;quot;, and the vision system matches them to a table of colors.  As you move across the spectrum, the cone output patterns follow smooth, complex curves that the vision system is designed to interpret.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colors that are close to each other on the spectrum produce output patterns that are similar, and the perceived colors look similar.  The spectrum looks like a rainbow because as you move across the wavelengths, the color we perceive follows the pattern, with one color blending smoothly into the next to form a continuum of hues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vision system cares only about the net output of each cone, it doesn't care how the cones got stimulated to produce that output.  Intense light of a wavelength near the tail of the sensitivity distribution can stimulate the cone to the same output as weak light of a wavelength near it's peak sensitivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was adequate during evolutionary times because everything was illuminated by broad-spectrum light (the sun, fire, etc.).  The vision system could assume that the cones were all responding to the same distribution of light wavelengths. It only needed to compare the cones to each other to interpret the output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With modern technology, we can fool the vision system to perceive colors by artificially stimulating the cones with the right wavelengths and intensities on other parts of their sensitivity curves to produce the same output pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that for most of the spectrum, two or three kinds of cones will be stimulated by whatever wavelength you use.  For example, when using a combination that includes reddish light and greenish light, the reddish light will stimulate both the M and L cones to some extent, and the greenish light will also stimulate both the M and L cones to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The output of each cone reflects its total stimulation.  It becomes a puzzle to pick the right combination of wavelengths and intensities so the net stimulation of each cone matches its response for the intended color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most of the spectrum, you could find multiple combinations of wavelength and intensity to evoke a particular color.  But what if you want to evoke all possible colors using the smallest number of triggering wavelengths, varying only their intensity (i.e., primary colors)?  One requirement is that you would need to use a set of wavelengths that allows each type of cone to have the strongest response on at least one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the sensitivity curves, that would require at least a wavelength in the blue range for the S cone, a wavelength in the greenish range for the M cone, and a wavelength in the reddish range for the L cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's not sufficient, there are requirements for the response patterns of each cone compared to the others.  Varying only the intensity of each fixed, component wavelength needs to produce a cumulative response matching not just a single color, but all of the patterns for the spectrum.  The results also need to be a continuous progression of color as you increment the intensity of a component wavelength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a lot of complex requirements and constraints.  But there happen to be &amp;quot;Goldilocks&amp;quot; spots in those three color ranges that allow you to use just three wavelengths to simulate most of the spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because each selected wavelength needs to influence multiple cones for this scheme to work, the selected wavelengths can't be at the extremes of the visible spectrum, where a single type of cone is responsive.  The bluest blue this can evoke is the selected blueish wavelength at 100% intensity, and the reddist red it can evoke is the selected reddish wavelength at 100% intensity; this trick can't evoke colors farther out on the spectrum.  Thus, the gamut of RGB primary colors can't include the entire visible spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;CMY&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since RGB models how our brains process additive color, CMY (the color space), is an extrapolation of it for subtractive color.  It just works in reverse using the RGB primary colors (note that CMYK is a different conversion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fO18n.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fO18n.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this chart, &amp;quot;nothing&amp;quot;  is the absence of color being contributed.  On an RGB device, &amp;quot;nothing&amp;quot; would appear as the background color of the device, which might not be pure black.  On a CMY application, &amp;quot;nothing&amp;quot; would be the background color of the media, which might not be pure white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, every color in one model can be expressed in the other; one is just the inverse of the other.  In real life, colors created from CMY primary colors are often muddy, not like the equivalent RGB color that the model suggests.  The model isn't wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is with how the colors are implemented.  There are issues like the colors being created by mixing pigments, or colorants that aren't a pure color, so you don't get pure subtractive color.  When CMY colors are created, the conversion is much more complex than the chart above describes because of the need to compensate for real life considerations like available colorants and how they behave.  But that's a subject for another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-09T02:56:28.610" LastActivityDate="2022-04-09T02:56:28.610" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11005" CreationDate="2022-04-07T14:36:12.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a follow up to fixer's answer, there's no specific wavelength of R, G, and B that have to be used. They are chosen to get the largest possible range of what we can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as pointed out by benrg, the R G B values are not wavelengths but colors. Two spectrum that produce the same color would be equally valid (ignoring the effects on reflections and refractions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pick specific values for Red, Green, and Blue you define an Absolute color space &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_space#Absolute_color_space&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_space#Absolute_color_space&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at this chart of various RGB color spaces there's quite a few choices. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RGB_color_spaces&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RGB_color_spaces&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should also be possible to intuitively see why a triangle made of different colors than Red, Green, and Blue would be inefficient and leave out colors that we can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/drNRy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/drNRy.png&quot; alt=&quot;different RGB color spaces&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even the bigger RGB color spaces do not capture everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12806" LastEditorUserId="12806" LastEditDate="2022-04-07T20:19:03.363" LastActivityDate="2022-04-07T20:19:03.363" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-07T16:36:07.527" Score="5" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;A perennial problem I have is that I often wear khaki/chino trousers and the hems fray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to repair this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point I took some of these trousers to a tailor with some olive green twill fabric with the idea that he could make green cuffs to replace the frayed hems, but he refused to do it, saying it would look weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T05:37:11.093" Title="Fraying hems on trousers" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11010" CreationDate="2022-04-07T19:35:56.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they're fraying because they're too long, the solution is probably to take them up a bit before they fray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if they're the perfect length for with shoes, but you often wear them indoors without shoes and fray them by treading on the hems, it's not going to be so easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a few pairs of chinos I've had, the hem is double and generous in size. That would provide just about enough material to remake something - again ideally just before the fabric wears through. But of course a narrow hem is common, as on the jeans I'm wearing now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-04-07T19:35:56.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11005" CreationDate="2022-04-07T19:49:15.657" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm the author of this image that was used in the top-voted answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2KPHj.png&quot; width=&quot;320&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;and I do not endorse that answer.&lt;/s&gt; (It's been edited, and I haven't looked at the edit yet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made that image to disabuse people of the misconception that we see RGB. People commonly say that the three types of cone &amp;quot;detect red, green, and blue light&amp;quot;, and you can see in the image that that isn't true at all. The other answer acknowledges that discrepancy, but saves the misconception by modifying it slightly into a form where postprocessing in the brain turns the cone responses into RGB. That's still wrong. &lt;em&gt;RGB is not the internal color space of the brain&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(That should be obvious, because which RGB would it be? There are many sets of additive primaries called &amp;quot;RGB&amp;quot;, including CIE RGB, Adobe RGB, Rec.601, sRGB, and Rec.2020. Today, sRGB dominates, but that's for reasons of engineering and interoperability, not because it matches the brain's internal color space more closely than the others.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's true that there is a three-dimensional space of psychological colors, because there are three cone types. It's also true that the brain transforms the cone outputs into a different &amp;quot;coordinate system&amp;quot;. But it isn't RGB. The internal color axes seem to be dark/light, red/green, and blue/yellow, as explained in Wikipedia's article on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opponent_process&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;opponent process&lt;/a&gt;. Here's a picture of the opponent colors from that article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/71/Opponent_colors.svg/320px-Opponent_colors.svg.png&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are four opponent hues, not three, and the three that most closely match the sRGB primaries don't actually match them very closely. The opponent-process blue is essentially sky blue, but the B of sRGB is quite violet, as you can see in this image where a rectangle of it is superimposed on a photograph of the sky:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9vsg.png&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name RGV was sometimes used historically instead of RGB for three-primary additive systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where do RGB and CMY come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, you need at least three primaries to get good color, because with two primaries, you only have two parameters (the quantity of each one) and so you can't cover more than a two-dimensional subspace of the three-dimensional space of psychological colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With three primaries, you still can't cover the whole space, but you can cover a three-dimensional subspace at least. If the primaries are well spaced around the color wheel, then you can produce every hue. If they're saturated (far from the dark/light axis), then you can produce fairly well saturated hues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, it comes down to practical engineering issues: some pigments and phosphors are (or were) cheaper to manufacture than others. When you optimize subject to all of these constraints, you end up with red-green-violet(blue) for lights, or red-yellow-blue for pigments. The historical red-yellow-blue systems evolved into the CMY systems used in printing today. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the primaries from Moses Harris's &amp;quot;prismatic color wheel&amp;quot;, drawn circa 1785, and an extreme close-up of CMY dots on newsprint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TVf9H.jpg&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More primaries are better. You can't reproduce every color with three. That's especially true of paints/inks, which are far more complicated than emissive displays like TVs, because the mixing behavior is nonlinear, and the appearance of the result depends also on the illuminant. Three colors is just the minimum that gets you acceptable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red, green, and blue are the only (additive) colors that cannot be created by mixing other colors. What makes them primary colors, or even unique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing. You can make them by mixing other primaries, if you choose other primaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The RGB model says red light plus green light produces yellow light. Each color has its own wavelength. How can combining two wavelengths produce a third, all in the same wavelength ballpark?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White light is a collection of all the wavelengths of visible light. Red, green, and blue light are just three wavelengths. How can just red, green, and blue create all the other wavelengths in white light?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primaries in RGB systems aren't wavelengths. Color vision has nothing to do with spectral/rainbow colors. (This is another common misconception, which often manifests as people claiming that magenta is &amp;quot;not a real color&amp;quot;.) Color vision evolved for other reasons, and the appearance of the spectrum is an evolutionary accident. Yellow is between red and green in the 3D cone space, and also in the spectrum. Violet is between red and blue in the 3D cone space, but not in the spectrum. That doesn't mean anything. The spectral colors doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the wavelength spectra of primaries from particular CRT, AMOLED, and LED-backlit LCD displays:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/29/CRT_phosphors.png/360px-CRT_phosphors.png&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Aaron-Quigley-4/publication/319440880/figure/fig4/AS:614169539788816@1523440837705/Measured-screen-emission-spectral-for-Galaxy-S6-AMOLED-and-Nexus-5-LCD-The-line.png&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these violate the sRGB standard, as long as they result in the same tristimulus values (up to overall brightness). This is something that fixer1234's answer basically gets right, except that it's couched in the idea that RGB is the brain's internal color space, which is wrong. What matters is only that the internal color space is three dimensional, while wavelength space has a much higher dimension (theoretically infinite), and as a result you have a huge freedom in choosing wavelength spectra that will map down to the same 3D point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can you create white light by combining only red, green, and blue light? You don't. It's an optical illusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just wrong, unless you specifically define white to be the spectrum of sunlight. Even then, you could engineer a sRGB-compliant display whose primaries added to a close approximation of sunlight when displaying white, if there were any reason to do that. You can see from the graphs above that the output of real displays when displaying white is actually a pretty broad spectrum. The (AMO)LED display has the narrowest peaks, unsurprisingly, but even those are pretty broad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big part of the problem is that the same words that describe psychological colors are also used to refer to spectral frequencies. &amp;quot;Combining only red, green, and blue light&amp;quot; sounds like a spectrum with three sharp spikes, but it's not. The word &amp;quot;only&amp;quot; shouldn't be there; there's no &amp;quot;only&amp;quot; about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since RGB is how our brains process additive color, CMY is an extrapolation of it for subtractive color. It just works in reverse using the RGB primary colors. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theory of mixing pigments is much more complicated than the theory of mixing lights. Even in the simplest model, the absorptive effect of different pigments doesn't subtract, but multiplies (or adds logarithmically). As a result the perceived color depends nonlinearly on the amount of each pigment, in a way that can't be modeled by tristimulus values. It also depends on the illuminant, which is a complication that doesn't exist in emissive color (though ambient lighting conditions do affect how colors from emissive displays are perceived).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is not at all true that CMY is the opposite of RGB. This is another weirdly common misconception. If you do a web search for &amp;quot;RGB CMYK conversion&amp;quot; or words to that effect, you'll find innumerable sites that literally just compute K = 255 - max(R,G,B), C = 255 - K - R, etc. I'm amazed that anyone really believes that CMYK is that simple: if it were, why even bother to define a separate standard? You could just compute 255-R in the printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12808" LastEditorUserId="12808" LastEditDate="2022-04-08T01:04:52.723" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T01:04:52.723" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11010" CreationDate="2022-04-08T05:29:48.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;An ounce of prevention…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the same principle as on dress pants made of finer wool: A thin band made of a sturdier material (e.g. polyester) sewn to the inside of the hem, protruding ever so slightly, protects the thinner material from wear and tear. About a millimeter overhang is enough and is invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nh6pf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nh6pf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSYEq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSYEq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This protective band gets added &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the correct length of the pants has been checked and adjusted as necessary. If the pants are too long, there’s unnecessary strain on the fabric all the time. If the fraying of your pants isn’t too bad, a good tailor should be able to add this kind of band and still hide the existing damage. These bands come in lots of colors, so matching should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="324" LastEditDate="2022-04-08T05:37:11.093" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T05:37:11.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10631" CreationDate="2022-04-08T08:50:05.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine bobbin lace should be doable even with arthritic fingers as long as your grandmother is able to handle the bobbins. There are rather thick ones available and you can use thicker thread and needles with thick heads, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12811" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-08T09:05:52.590" LastActivityDate="2022-04-08T09:05:52.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11016" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-04-09T10:08:32.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/clothing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;clothing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;clothing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sewing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sewing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/knitting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;knitting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;knitting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-09T10:08:32.743" LastActivityDate="2022-04-09T10:08:32.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11017" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-04-09T10:08:32.743" Score="0" Body="This term is used to broadly cover anything related to making garments fit. It can be used for questions about alterations of clothing. As this tag includes the word 'clothing', that tag shouldn't be used along with it." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-09T10:08:32.743" LastActivityDate="2022-04-09T10:08:32.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10912" CreationDate="2022-04-11T23:35:08.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a lot of misconceptions before researching this.  I assumed many leaves would become so brittle, they would crumble at a touch, and specimens would slowly degrade, due to bacteria and mold, and chemical reactions within the plant material and with air and humidity.  I envisioned needing to initially disinfect the specimens, then after drying, hermetically sealing them away from air, humidity, and handling.  It turns out the specimens are actually pretty tough and stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bacteria and fungii don't feed on the specimens once they're dry.  There can be some color changes during the drying process, but dehydration stops the kind of chemical activity that goes on inside the plant.  Mounting the specimens minimizes flexing and adds a little strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as environmental conditions, keeping the ambient temperature and humidity stable, and the humidity below the point that supports mold growth, is apparently enough to keep the specimens in good shape.  It isn't necessary for them to be hermetically sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collections at museums and universities can date back hundreds of years.  The storage rooms are probably controlled for temperature and humidity, but the specimens are just mounted on heavy, acid-free paper, and basically stacked. A typical setup is cabinets containing stacks of what look like acid-free manilla folders.  Within the folders are bundles of specimen sheets with a protective sheet between them.  Specimens that are too thick to mount on paper are just stored in boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks like protecting the specimens is mostly at the front end.  Once they're properly pressed, dried, and mounted, they don't need more than common sense precautions in storage and handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T23:35:08.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8326" CreationDate="2022-04-12T09:54:09.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silhouettes were inexpensive novelty items mainly sold at gift and novelty shops or given away as advertising promotions.  They needed something as a frame so people wouldn't cut their fingers on the glass, and to give it some semblance of finished appearance.  But the economics limited it to the cheapest possible frame, with the fastest possible assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was a simple &amp;quot;U&amp;quot; channel folded from sheet metal.  The channel was notched so it could be folded into a rectangle.  Framing of the silhouette took just seconds: wrap the channel around it or slide the glass into the loosely formed frame, then catch the hook to lock it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Style name&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll suggest that the reason it was hard to identify the style is because it really didn't have one.  The frames look like they were designed to be visually ignored to the extent possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were never sold as standalone items, only as a component in a completed item, like a silhouette.  The silhouette had a style, but the frames were basically junk serving a function on a piece of art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few styles might come to mind to describe the frame.  For example, &amp;quot;minimalist&amp;quot; was suggested in several now-deleted answers.  Minimalist is a visual style that focuses on the essential; using limited materials, neutral colors, simple forms, and avoiding excess ornamentation to achieve elegance.  The frame does the first part as a result of being cheaply made, but wasn't designed or made to be elegant, and I would argue, didn't achieve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it needs a style name, it seems like what would capture the essence would be something like &amp;quot;cheap functional&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;junk chic&amp;quot;, but I'm not sure those are standard, recognized styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are merchants selling replacement frames online.  The descriptions are totally generic, like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;metal frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simple metal frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;silhouette frame (as in replacement frame for silhouette)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vintage metal replacement frame for reverse silhouettes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are dirt-cheap frames still made in a somewhat similar way--the simple folded sheet metal channel with notched corners.  Most of the ones currently made don't require end-user bending and locking, they're completed at the factory.  The metal is often embossed with some kind of design so it isn't just flat sheet metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're fancier, but still generally referred to simply as &amp;quot;frame&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;metal frame&amp;quot;.  Finished items are typically referred to simply as &amp;quot;framed &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;whatever&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt;&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;whatever&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; with metal frame&amp;quot;.  The frame is non-descript so there's no description or focus on it.  And since the frames were never sold on their own, they're more like a repair part for a silhouette if you want a totally authentic appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-04-12T09:54:09.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3745" CreationDate="2022-04-12T16:23:05.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TAKE EXTRA CARE WITH SILVER NITRATE {SN} - IT WILL STAIN YOUR SKIN brown/black and can takes days/weeks for your skin to shed a few layers and return to its original colour.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Personally I wouldn't add it to clay even if wearing gloves - if you touch your face or, say, scratch your arm or another part of the body with SN contaminated gloves, you risk staining your skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12835" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-12T17:19:42.453" LastActivityDate="2022-04-12T17:19:42.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-13T01:12:13.367" Score="2" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many crafts can have a need to reduce or remove water from something.  This is often done in a regular oven at a low temperature setting, or using a dehydrator that basically does the same thing.  Microwave ovens typically have a keep-warm setting or power adjustment that can be set at a low level, like 10%.  Using that low setting for a long time tends to dry things out without them getting more than warm, and seemingly faster than doing it in a regular oven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often experiment with small amounts of materials that I want to concentrate or dry out.  Doing it in a microwave can be a lot faster than preheating an oven and then doing it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a safe alternative?  Are there any potential hazards I should be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-13T01:28:30.450" LastActivityDate="2022-04-13T15:49:09.783" Title="Is it safe to dry or dehydrate things in a microwave using the keep-warm setting?" Tags="|tool-selection|safety|drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11023" CreationDate="2022-04-13T01:12:13.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A microwave can be a great alternative, but there are potential hazards to be aware of.  Considerations of &amp;quot;safe&amp;quot; relate to both your material and the microwave and containers you're doing the drying in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question and answer was triggered by something I've done successfully dozens of times, and today resulted in my material being contained in a molten blob of plastic fused onto the microwave turntable.  The specifics of my disaster might be a bit unusual, but I'll include information that will apply to many situations where people might want to use the microwave to dry stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low power settings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a regular microwave, low power settings are actually full power for a fraction of every minute.  An inverter microwave reduces the power level.  On my inverter microwave, the inverter only goes down to 40% power, so a level like 10% is actually 40% for the first quarter of each minute.  You need to know how your own microwave implements power settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Microwaves don't heat material evenly throughout; they get absorbed by the material as they pass through and most of the heating is near the surface.  The hot material then spreads the heat into the surrounding material and the temperature equalizes.  At low power settings with a normal amount of material, the material doesn't get too hot during the power cycle and then cools a bit during the off part of the cycle as the heat spreads around.  Some of the heat from the warmed material also dissipates into the oven environment, warming other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working with small amounts of material, the burst of full power (or 40% power in my case), can make the material hot if that's the only thing absorbing the energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How things heat during normal microwave operation doesn't scale to what happens with small amounts of material.  It isn't small differences in behavior, it can be huge differences, and things, both good and bad, can happen much faster than you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hot spots&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inside of the microwave gets nodes of high energy (hot spots), and low energy.  There are interesting YouTube videos of people heating a large thin pancake, and the node pattern makes art on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those hot spots also work vertically.  On my microwave, there's a lot more heating at turntable level than several inches above it (as I now have learned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a lot of material distributed around the turntable, the heating can equalize.  But if you have a small amount, and it is in one spot, it's different.  The material can heat much faster, or if it mostly passes through areas of low energy, a lot of the energy ends up getting absorbed by other things, heating things other than your material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What gets heated&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you work with small amounts of material and long run times, even at low power, many things don't behave as you're used to.  A few are mentioned above.  Here are more.  Under the category of &lt;em&gt;Things that normally don't get hot, get hot&lt;/em&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The water that evaporates from the material goes into the air inside the microwave.  It's still water.  The more you dry the material, the more of its water is floating around inside the oven, getting in the hot spots because it can go everywhere, and turning to steam.  The steam heats other things in the microwave, like your container and the turntable glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As your material dries, several things happen.  The remaining water in your material heats faster and makes the material hotter.  And more and more of the energy and heat is being transferred and absorbed by things other than your material, so they get hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many materials aren't much affected by microwaves when they're at room temperature.  But if they are hot, they absorb microwaves and get hotter.  The hotter they are, the hotter they get.  Glass is one of those.  There are YouTube videos of people preheating a glass bottle, and then melting it in the microwave (no kiln), and turntable glass that started out hot, and then the microwave got it glowing red hot.  When you run the microwave for a long time, even at low power, and there isn't much material in it, and it is also being heated by the steam from your material, the glass will start to get very hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many microwave-safe materials are safe for their intended use, based on some assumptions about how they will be used.  For example, some microwave soup comes in a heavy-duty polypropylene cup.  You peel off a seal at the top and stick it in the microwave.  Ninety seconds later, you have hot soup.  When you're done enjoying the soup, wash out the container and you have a free, heavy-duty, microwave-safe cup for you projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polypropylene is virtually unaffected by microwaves, but some of the materials added to it for coloring and other properties, can be slightly affected.  But it's in minute amounts, and the container is full of soup, so the effect is irrelevant.  Guess what happens if you use it to hold a small amount of material, the material stays in a low-energy area, and you let it run for half an hour?  Your material doesn't get all that hot, but the container absorbs a lot of energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Guess what happens if it is also sitting on a glass turntable that is getting really hot?  It quickly goes from semi-hot liquid in a soup cup to a melted plastic container, &amp;quot;hot-glued&amp;quot; to the turntable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What things to avoid drying in a microwave&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A general conclusion from my disaster is that small amounts of material are a problem.  Small amounts and microwave ovens aren't a good combination, and things that otherwise wouldn't be a problem can become a problem.  If you need to use a microwave for small amounts, don't use power cycle timing.  If you have an inverter microwave, set it on the lowest power that actually uses that power 100% of the time.  Manually control the time for each microwave exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the considerations above, there are some materials that generally would be better not to dry or dehydrate in a microwave.  This is by no means intended to be a comprehensive list, just a few things off the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cellulose-based materials.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you have something like soaking wet paper and you want to dry it to damp, and you will be carefully monitoring it, that will probably be fine (as long as the heat, hot water, and steam won't affect whatever it is).  However, paper and other cellulose materials can be super-dried in a microwave, and get very hot.  It can be damaged (become brown and brittle), and even ignite under certain conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that reason, I also wouldn't use it to dry plant specimens, like for a herbarium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dehydrating mineral materials.&lt;/strong&gt; Certain common materials change form when they absorb water, and you can sometimes reverse the process by removing the water.  For example, calcium chloride, which is used as a desiccant.  You start with pellets of calcium chloride.  As it absorbes moisture from the air, it goes into solution.  Rather than discard the solution, you can dry it out, turn it back into solid form, and reuse it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't an issue to do that kind of thing in an oven.  But you need to be careful doing it in a microwave.  When materials go from liquid to solid, there may be heat of crystallization--a lot of additional energy that needs to be either added or removed for it to change state.  It can do unexpected things with time and temperature in a microwave, and potentially damage the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-13T08:24:01.820" LastActivityDate="2022-04-13T08:24:01.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11023" CreationDate="2022-04-13T15:49:09.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drying usually means removing water with a good flow of fresh (dry) air. So an oven with open door is perfect. A microwave with closed door does not circulate fresh, dry air. I under stand they are not sealed but they have very limited fresh air circulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2022-04-13T15:49:09.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11031" CreationDate="2022-04-14T01:11:03.653" Score="4" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on my first painting commission for a client and have finally reached the underpainting (underdrawing) stage — after months of composition drawings, photoshoots, etc., suffering innumerable stumbles and pitfalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally transferred the image to a primed and toned canvas using carbon paper and a large-format print of the reference photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to refine the drawing on the canvas.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It was suggested to me to use vine charcoal for this purpose — ostensibly when moving to the underpainting stage it is naturally wiped off, where graphite or other forms of charcoal would show through — but find that it doesn't adhere well at all to the primed, semi-smooth canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, because of my NDA with the client, I can't show my work here, but could anyone who has ever encountered this suggest a better tool for creating the underdrawing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any insight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12841" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-15T14:44:03.113" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T14:48:58.717" Title="Best drawing material for creating an underdrawing on a primed and toned canvas" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11032" CreationDate="2022-04-14T07:55:22.373" Score="3" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my holiday trip I bought a ball of regular crocheting yarn. However, the yarn is wound around an empty cardboard tube, which takes up a lot of space and doesn't fit into my usual crafting bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I wind the yarn into a ball&lt;/strong&gt; (without the cardboard tube) &lt;strong&gt;by hand, can it have any negative effects on it?&lt;/strong&gt; Can the properties of the yarn change? Can it behave differently or take damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/10900/6316&quot;&gt;this similar question&lt;/a&gt;, but it doesn't provide any detail about what exactly happens to the yarn if it's wound tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's of any importance:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The yarn is 100% cotton, size 100, mercerized and gassed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T09:53:22.477" Title="Can hand-winding crocheting yarn into a ball have any negative effects?" Tags="|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11030" CreationDate="2022-04-14T17:27:22.550" Score="3" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this is at the house of a deceased relative (IOW asking the former owner is not possible for obvious, sad, reasons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I slid a &amp;quot;Get out of jail free&amp;quot; card into it to illustrate what I guess it was used for (holding something thin, but what?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tLO8T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tLO8T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Holder with card slid in&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2nd picture shows it disassembled. The 2 (formerly probably white) thin cardboard pieces give it some stability.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3aqSW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3aqSW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;disassembled&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the 2 thin cardboard pieces back was not so easy, so I wonder how this was mass produced (it doesn't look like a one-off piece to me; the cuts are very clean and parallel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was with a pile of papers, estimated to be at least 30 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching the net didn't give any leads, but that could be my poor google-fu (though I saw a lot of interesting origami projects in the last hour LOL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12843" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T00:04:36.817" Title="What was this holder, made from paper, used for?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2022-04-14T23:52:26.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember seeing these things.  My recollection is that it was just a novel card wallet (for up to four cards). Weaving a card through the strips holds it in place, and the alternating strips let you see what the card is without needing a transparent pocket. Weave in reverse on the two sections to hold the strips together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two cards back-to-back in each middle section lets you view each from opposite sides. Folding it up makes it not much bigger than a single card. It keeps them together, and the outside sections protect the cards. It's something fun and functional you can make from paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strips in the middle can be cut with scissors; they don't need to be perfect.  Fold the paper in half and then fold the sides in half.  Unfold the sides, leaving the sheet still folded in half.  Use the crease as a stopping guide when you cut the strips in the middle section starting from the folded edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-15T00:04:36.817" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T00:04:36.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11027" CreationDate="2022-04-15T14:48:58.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few alternatives I can think of you can use to refine your underdrawing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a small brush you can paint the finer details, either with &lt;strong&gt;acrylic&lt;/strong&gt; for quicker corrections, or already in &lt;strong&gt;(diluted) oils&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a dip pen in combination with &lt;strong&gt;acrylic inks&lt;/strong&gt; (I'm not sure how Indian inks will behave under oil paint in the long run).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use &lt;strong&gt;coloured pencils&lt;/strong&gt;, preferably choosing a colour that is only slightly darker or lighter than your imprimatura (just avoid graphite, as it will will really muddy up any lighter paint).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your imprimatura happens to be darker than white, another option is to use (a) &lt;strong&gt;white chalk&lt;/strong&gt; (pencil), but this is not practical for detailed work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a footnote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;it is naturally wiped off&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not entirely true: while the application of the charcoal is usually so light that the mere proximity of a brush will sweep some of it away, it will likely at least partially mix with your paints.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is obviously not necessarily a bad thing, especially in the underpainting stage, but just something to be aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T14:48:58.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11028" CreationDate="2022-04-15T20:27:04.083" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yarns that naturally have some stretch to them can get over-stretched and lose their elasticity if tightly wound into a ball. It's something you have to watch out for with wool and other animal fibers. With an inelastic yarn like mercerized cotton, this shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible issue when winding a ball is if your winding technique twists the yarn. If you add twist to the yarn, when you work with it, it will tend to fold back on itself and form kinks. The added twist can also affect the tension of your knitting and cause it to bias. This is more of a problem with mechanical ball winders, so it's unlikely to be a problem with hand-winding a ball. Just pay attention to your winding technique and make sure you're not adding twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2022-04-15T20:27:04.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-16T16:55:07.110" Score="3" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4svE8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4svE8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inside of boots&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; I've been repurposing the tops of leather riding boots, no longer useful for wearing.  There is a 5&amp;quot; leather band on the inside top of the boots, and 1&amp;quot; leather down the sides of the stitching in the backs. I like the unlined boots as they allow to have better contact on the horse for riding/jumping.   The image is of my custom Vogel boots, showing the inside singing which came off easily, however my partially lined French Waxed Calf custom Dehners are more of a challenge. The leather is a bit heavier, and I'm having difficulty removing the inside liner. inside vogel &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Npwd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Npwd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;insidevogel&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Can the tops of the black boots be soaked in water/glycerine?  I did not want to use acetone because I do not want to dry out the leather I'm going to be repurposing.  (I carefully removed all the stitching threads and can remove ripples from the brown boots so I can use them for projects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12852" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-16T17:05:20.780" LastActivityDate="2022-04-21T05:33:01.337" Title="trouble removing glue from inside leather pieces of tall boots" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-16T18:58:35.970" Score="5" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a pack of Faber-Castell &amp;quot;Grip 2001&amp;quot; graphite pencils (see image.below).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've bought other Faber-Castell grip pencils before, but not these specific ones. I've used their &amp;quot;Colour Grip&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Art Grip Aquarelle&amp;quot;, which didn't feel oily, but the &amp;quot;Grip 2001&amp;quot; pencil's grip feels oily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m trying to figure out if they’re meant to be like that or not: does any know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8fEUZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8fEUZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo depicting the Art Grip Aquarelle, Colour Grip, and Grip 2001 pencils lying on a wooden surface&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11438" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-08-14T15:40:52.663" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T13:22:03.180" Title="Are Faber-Castell pencils meant to be oily?" Tags="|pencils|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11036" CreationDate="2022-04-19T09:18:50.873" Score="3" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many fascinating videos and pictures of people creating gorgeous tables and kitchen counters from epoxy resin. I'm planning on making such a table for myself, but it got me thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I need to do to preserve the finished table in pristine condition? Would the surface get scratched with normal use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T11:42:30.017" Title="How to care for large epoxy tables and counters?" Tags="|preservation|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11035" CreationDate="2022-04-19T11:42:30.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some kinds of epoxy are not suited for any storage or work surface.&lt;/strong&gt; There are special products marketed specifically for the purpose of coating counter tops or tables. The problems listed below are mitigated as much as possible in these specialized products, but they might be much more noticeable in any epoxy not specifically designed for counter tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy is &lt;strong&gt;prone to staining&lt;/strong&gt;. It looks as smooth and clear as glass, but it can be stained permanently, especially by acidic substances like coffee, wine, fruit juice, mustard or ketchup. Some people recommend acetone (nail polish remover) or a paste of baking soda with water to remove these stains, but the deeper they seeped into the epoxy, the harder they are to remove. A simple workaround is to use dark colors for your projects where stains are less noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most epoxies are not food safe&lt;/strong&gt;. Please make extra sure that you use a food safe epoxy for your kitchen counter or make sure to never put food directly onto the epoxy surface. If you didn't mix the correct ratio of resin and hardener there remains an amount of uncured chemical in the finished surface that will never stabilize and get inactive. So if you made a mistake with the mixing ratios, you might have to scratch the epoxy from the surface and start over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shiny smooth surface &lt;strong&gt;is prone to scratching&lt;/strong&gt;. More precisely: It's prone to micro scratches that aren't very noticeable to the naked eye but dull the surface. You must avoid abrasive cleaners (including abrasive sponges). You can place coasters under any objects like glasses, dishes and pots to prolong the shiny finish, but ultimately it's unavoidable that the surface eventually becomes dull. You can also polish a dull epoxy surface to restore it's gloss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some epoxies are &lt;strong&gt;prone to yellowing&lt;/strong&gt;. Epoxy becomes yellow when it's exposed to UV light. Since natural sunlight contains UV light, eventually all epoxy objects will yellow over time. How quickly that happens mostly depends on the chemical composition and thereby the product you buy. A workaround is to use dark or warm colors like yellow, gold, orange, red and brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some honest reviews of peoples epoxy counter tops several months after finishing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HhxgzRw41hA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt; Bronte's Life&lt;/a&gt;: Some yellowing, one big stain, some slight chipping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/vhYmYNB3I9c&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt; Magda Molina&lt;/a&gt;: No yellowing, one stain, several micro scratches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/kBxkuuXhXYA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Colorado Mountain Living&lt;/a&gt;: Lots of micro scratches, some big scratch, one chipped corner. No yellowing or stains visible due to the dark base color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-04-19T11:42:30.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11033" CreationDate="2022-04-20T05:07:20.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can soak leather in water. It's a very common step in leather working, especially to decorate the leather with punches. To avoid water stains you should always soak the entire piece of leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the boots were made with traditional materials, the glue is a water-soluble organic glue (there are several different types of glue, but the traditional ones are almost all water soluble). Soaking in warm water can help dissolve the glue faster. However, several modern glues or contact cements are not water soluble, so if the leather piece doesn't detach after a few hours, you can only scrape it off, which probably damages the leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soaking leather in any type of alcohol (ethanol, isopropyl, acetone, etc) dries them out and makes them brittle. &lt;strong&gt;Never apply acetone to leather, don't even wipe the leather with acetone!&lt;/strong&gt; Acetone destroys the tanning components which are the big difference between a raw hide and leather. Leather treated with acetone even once will crack and rip and simply be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want your boot leather to be softer and more pliable, you can add 1 part glycerin to 2 parts soaking water. That acts like a moisturizer for the leather, but prolongs the drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-04-21T05:33:01.337" LastActivityDate="2022-04-21T05:33:01.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11040" CreationDate="2022-04-20T08:41:11.287" Score="4" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mechanical pencil (Mephisto 0,3) which has been clogged for a while now. This pencil model doesn't feature a 'cleaning rod'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking into the front piece of the pencil I can see something is blocking it.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I can't take the nozzle/clutch and the canister that contains the leads (lower left side of image below) apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking out the lead was not helpful, nor trying to force out whatever likely bits the nozzle contained by using the releasing mechanism and holding the pen in different positions. I also tried inserting the pencil lead back into the nozzle from the opposite side, using it as a cleaning rod: I feel the obstruction, but cannot put enough force on a 0.3 mm pencil lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any item at home (needles, pins, wires, &amp;amp;c.) with a small enough diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there an alternative way to unclog my mechanical pencil?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3Stl.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3Stl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-20T08:49:22.123" LastActivityDate="2022-04-21T08:08:59.760" Title="Jammed lead in mechanical pencil: how to expel?" Tags="|pencils|pencil-maintenance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11038" CreationDate="2022-04-20T09:22:01.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I had a similar problem, I used a stripped wire as a DIY cleaning rod. Depending on the size of lead, you could also use a regular sewing needle, straight pin (they come in extra fine as well), crafting wire or bead needle for the task. It doesn't have to be 100% the same size as the lead, it just has to fit into the hole at the tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assemble the pencil and push the end (where the eraser sits) down onto a stable surface. That opens the lead mechanism and gives you easy access to the tip. Insert the DIY cleaning rod into the tip and wiggle it around. That should dislodge any clogged lead pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-04-20T09:22:01.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11038" CreationDate="2022-04-20T19:01:49.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jams aren't just broken lead.  They often include a chunk of lead wedged in the jaws of the mechanism, and may include lead debris and powder that have been compacted in the feed tube or mechanism.  They don't easily come out just by pushing new lead behind them.  If you are able to push the plug out but don't clean out all of the debris,  you're already on the way to the next jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, I'll try to cover all the options, because even with a cleaning tool, some methods are more effective than others.  So only portions of this answer will address your current predicament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 0.3 mm size is pretty small, so typical household items that work for larger pencil sizes may not fit.  It happens that 0.3 mm stainless steel wire is commonly used for various outdoor purposes and can be found at many sources.  It is easily bent, but it's a lot stiffer than the equivalent copper wire, and short lengths will stay straight as you push them through the pencil if you're careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question says the pencil has &amp;quot;been clogged for a while now&amp;quot;.  If you don't have a suitable cleaning tool at home, let it be a while longer until you can find one.  But if you want to exhaust your options for using it now, the Disassembly section, below, might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal way to clear a jam is by plunging it out with a cleaning tool.  And you can do that with the mechanism fully assembled or disassembled; there are some implications.  But if you can disassemble it, you can sometimes clear it without a cleaning tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disassembly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disassembling the mechanism is a better way to thoroughly clean jams.  You can see what you're doing, you have access to everything that needs cleaning, and you can get all the debris completely out of the pencil.  Even if you don't have the right cleaning tool, you can often make due with other things when the mechanism is apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes once it's apart, you can see that the jam is caused by a piece of lead wedged in the jaws, and you can dislodge it without a cleaning tool.  Or you can clear enough of the jam to use something like another lead to gently push out what's left (keep a few of the hardest leads you can find for this purpose if you can't find the right cleaning tool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the picture, it looks like the mechanism isn't one that comes apart just by gravity or unscrewing something obvious.  But they typically aren't assembled in a non-reversible way, like by parts snapping together permanently, or gluing or welding the mechanism together.  Usually, something unscrews or they're just a tight friction fit.  If you don't have disassembly instructions, a few things to try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On many pencils, the metal cone containing the nozzle unscrews to reveal the mechanism.  Try unscrewing that, using something like a flat rubber band for friction if you can't grab it well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the cone doesn't unscrew, try grabbing the lead loading tube and turning it to see if it unscrews the mechanism from the tip (this would be an unusual method of assembly, but it can't hurt to try, just don't force it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try pulling the lead loading tube out of the tip with some gentle force (the strength in your fingers).  Rather than just yanking in opposite directions using the strength in your arm muscles, grab the parts and push them apart from each other in a controlled way with your fingers.  Do it on a big, white surface so if it suddenly pulls apart, no important pieces will disappear.  Recognize that no friction fit should take unreasonable force to pull apart.  If reasonable finger force doesn't do it, something probably unscrews.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning while fully assembled&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People usually do this by pushing the cleaning tool into the nozzle to push the plug out the back of the mechanism.  It's fast, and often gets you going again in a hurry, but it isn't a good idea.  That just temporarily moves the debris to a place where it will get pushed back in, and may leave debris stuck in the mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's your only option, it's better to use the correct size tool--some kind of sturdy pin or wire that snugly fits in the nozzle.  Something that doesn't fit snugly may push out the clog, but leave debris behind, even compacting it in nooks and crannies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First empty out all the lead behind the mechanism.  If you manage to push the debris out the back, get it out of the lead loading tube using something like a pipe cleaner, or if you can remove the tube, you may be able to blow it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't disassemble it, the better way to do it would be with a long cleaning tool inserted through the lead loading tube.  Something that long will easily bend when you push on it, so you need either something very stiff, or make a tool by enclosing all but the end of the wire in a tight-fitting tube that fits inside the lead loading tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach is securing a cleaning pin in the tip of a tube or wooden stick that fits in the lead loading tube; something like a WD40 spray tube or a thin wooden stirring stick; you may need to hunt for something that fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an undersized wire is all you have, you won't be able to clear out all the debris well.  But if you're using a snug-fitting cleaning tool from the back end, you can get some of the debris out of the jaws.  After pushing out the plug from behind, push the cleaning tool in far enough to spread the jaws, tap the mechanism to jar the debris from between them, then push the tool through to plunge the debris out.  Repeat that a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consider an alternative pencil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, I think you're in a losing battle using that pencil for 0.3 mm writing.  I've tried 0.3 mm pencils several times in the past because of the thin line they produce.  But the leads are delicate and notorious for breaking, and softer leads that can make a dark line tend to crumble inside and cause jams.  If you want to use 0.3 mm, it's only practical if you use a pencil with a mechanism you can easily disassemble for the frequently needed unplugging and maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the last few year, some Japanese manufacturers have come out with some clever mechanisms that minimize breakage.  I haven't tried them, myself, but various articles and reviews I've read report that they are better at avoiding or reducing breakage and jams.  A video by retailer JetPens, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PESa3Du3udY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why You NEED an Overengineered Japanese Mechanical Pencil!&lt;/a&gt;, describes some of the mechanisms, although I didn't check to see if every one is available in 0.3 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One mechanism takes a different approach.  Rather than trying to avoid breakage of a 0.3 mm lead, it uses a larger, stronger lead, but rotates it to keep a sharp point on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get the urge to try 0.3 mm again, I would probably only consider a pencil with a mechanism that makes it practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-04-21T08:08:59.760" LastActivityDate="2022-04-21T08:08:59.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11042" CreationDate="2022-04-21T23:24:37.550" Score="3" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if there's such a thing as a refillable porous point pen.  To clarify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By refillable, I mean from bulk ink, like a fountain pen, not where you reuse the pen body and replace both the ink and delivery system like a pen refill.  My searches have turned up only fountain pens and technical pens (metal capillary tube ink delivery), as ones where you refill just the ink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Porous point refers to a hard, rigid porous point, not a soft tip like a felt marker.  I've seen refillable brush pens, but those don't have a rigid tip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pen refers to something that draws a line with a width in the ballpark of a ball-tipped writing instrument, like a ballpoint or rollerball.  A micro-fine tip would be great, like the Micron 0.1 mm and smaller technical/art pens, but those tips are lucky to survive using up the original ink.  So I assume anything refillable would need to be in a size range at least like the Pilot Razor Point (0.3 mm), that's designed to hold up to normal writing, and produces a line like a fine to medium point pen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most porous point pens can be recharged if you pry off the back cap, but they aren't designed to be refilled.  If you inject too much ink, you can get a leaky mess.  Something designed for refilling will have easy access and a controlled amount of ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has used such pens, it would be a bonus to know whether the tip survives extended use through refilling, and retains a point of about the original size, or does it wear down, producing an ever-widening line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen ink sold for the purpose of refilling such pens.  My assumption is that the ink viscosity would be similar to fountain pen ink, and the precise viscosity probably isn't critical.  If somebody is aware of a characteristic of porous point ink that is different, making fountain pen ink unsuitable, that would also pretty much answer the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T19:40:27.660" Title="Is there such a thing as a refillable porous point pen?" Tags="|tool-selection|pens|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2022-04-22T19:40:27.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll close the loop on this question.  Thanks to @ChrisH for identifying &amp;quot;fineliner&amp;quot; as the useful search term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refillable fineliners do exist, and there are a few products currently available.  Both water-based and oil-based inks are used for this type of pen, so fountain pen ink probably wouldn't be precluded for refilling if the pen started out with water-based ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copic makes a pen with not only refillable ink, but replaceable nibs, and ChrisH identified a double-sided pen from Zebra with different size nibs at each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The currently available products that showed up in a search all require unique ink cartridges.  A manufacturer of generic cartidges could duplicate them, but it appears to be such a small niche market that there wouldn't be a payback for the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cartridge approach is fast and clean, with reduced risk of needing to remove ink stains from yourself and other things.  But with no generic cartridges to hold down market prices, the refill ink can be more expensive than disposable fineliners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It generally isn't a good idea to try to refill the cartridges because removing and replacing them stretches the hole and they can leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: such products do currently exist.  But the business model seems focused on  selling over-priced supplies rather than supporting an enduring masterpiece of writing perfection.  The refillable pens don't provide obvious benefits in use over less-expensive disposable pens, but probably contribute a small reduction in waste plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-04-22T19:40:27.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-26T23:07:15.507" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a package from a swiss brand called Geigy. It’s made in the 60s. What technique has been used to create the ant would you say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ymg1f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ymg1f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12897" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-04-27T11:35:55.060" LastActivityDate="2022-04-27T11:35:55.060" Title="What technique has been used for this illustration?" Tags="|technique-identification|printing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11043" CreationDate="2022-04-27T11:33:46.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very likely made using &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;silkscreen&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithography&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lithography&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since these designs seem to have been made using stencils cut out of paper, I think silk screen printing would have been the more practical approach. The grid-like outlines of the shapes also corroborate this type of printing. (Of course, consequential prints were probably made using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Offset_printing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;offset printing&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is a photograph of a prototype for this box of the ant-killer Neocid, since even the folding lines seem to have been printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source of your image can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/eyemagazine/48863859458/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: '&lt;em&gt;Graphic Design Manual, Principles and Practice&lt;/em&gt;', by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armin_Hofmann&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Armin Hofmann&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;He was part of a team of designers who were employed by the Swiss pharmaceutical company Geigy in the 1960s to advertise their products to doctors and in medical journals (as direct advertising to the public was prohibited).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Hence the artist of this particular packaging is an unknown student (see image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/99dZR.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/99dZR.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Detail of page 20 of &lt;em&gt;Corporate Diversity: Swiss Graphic Design and Advertising by Geigy, 1940-1970&lt;/em&gt;, Lars Muller Verlag, 2009&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The style is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Typographic_Style&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;International Typographic Style&lt;/a&gt;, which is also known as Swiss Style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-04-27T11:33:46.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11048" CreationDate="2022-04-27T18:04:04.287" Score="2" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm simply wondering if there are any types of yarn that hold up well in water? Or should crocheted swimwear not be used for actually swimming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T08:26:28.637" Title="What types of yarn are best for swimwear?" Tags="|crocheting|yarn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11049" CreationDate="2022-04-27T23:42:35.307" Score="2" ViewCount="1753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently working on a project that uses back loop only single crochets and my yarn is 100% acrylic. The project is super stretchy and I am wondering if it is the stitch or the yarn or both that causes it to be so stretchy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T14:11:33.657" Title="Is it yarn that makes a product stretchy or the type of stitch?" Tags="|crocheting|yarn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11046" CreationDate="2022-04-28T08:26:28.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synthetics&lt;/strong&gt;: good choice. Synthetic materials (made prom petroleum compounds) don't soak up any water and therefore dry very fast. They usually don't sag while wet and hold their shape for a long time. Depending on the manufacturing process, they can be created already colored, so they cannot bleach in chlorinated water. Since they don't soak up water, they are very resistant to damage by salt water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Synthetic natural fibers&lt;/strong&gt;: ok to bad choice. This category includes things like modal, viscose / rayon, bamboo and other fibers synthetically made from natural sources like cellulose. They usually soak up a lot of water and take long to dry. Their colorfastness can vary, but I would compare it to cotton. As natural fibers they are damaged by salt water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cotton&lt;/strong&gt;: bad choice. It soaks up a lot of water, which makes it sag and stay wet for a long time. It also loses color when you swim in chlorinated water and it's easily damaged by swimming in salt water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Linen&lt;/strong&gt;: ok with caveats. It also soaks up water, but dries faster than cotton. Linen is notorious for not being color fast and it's bleached even faster by swimming in chlorinated water. Since linen fibers are usually somewhat sturdier than cotton fibers, it withstands salt water a little better, but only a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wool&lt;/strong&gt;: probably bad choice. Wool doesn't soak up much water, so it dries faster than cotton. It also retains some warming properties while wet. But wet wool has the tendency to sag a lot and stay in that shape if not dried properly. Wool can be very scratchy and uncomfortable when worn directly on the naked skin. It also has a tendency to shrink and felt it it's moved a lot while wet. I cannot asses it's color fastness, but as a natural fiber it's also damaged by salt water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T08:26:28.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11047" CreationDate="2022-04-28T12:28:05.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a mix of several different aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The yarn&lt;/strong&gt; can stretch a tiny amount, but that tiny amount can accumulate in a crocheted or knitted work. Acrylic and wool yarn are the most stretchy ones, while cotton doesn't stretch much at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The technique&lt;/strong&gt; drastically influences how the fabric stretches. Plain weave fabric doesn't stretch at all along the grain line, but plain knit fabric (like jersey) does. Single crochets are usually very tight and not stretchy, but double and triple crochets get more and more stretchy. There is no general rule that defines stretchiness. Many patterns with holes (like ajour or knitted lace) tend to stretch more than plain patterns, but then there's patent knitting which looks very plain but is the most stretchy knit I have ever seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The tool size&lt;/strong&gt; (hook or needle) in comparison to the yarn size &lt;strong&gt;and how tightly you work&lt;/strong&gt; influence how tight the resulting fabric is crocheted or knit.  A loosely worked fabric can stretch more, simply because there is more yarn in each stitch that can be pulled around. If you want very tight fabric, use a 1 - 2 size(s) smaller hook and keep the working thread under more tension while you crochet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2022-04-28T14:11:33.657" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T14:11:33.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2351" CreationDate="2022-04-28T16:18:41.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that it makes a difference. I like to look for measurements in crochet projects or come up with my own measurements to use as guidelines so if I use a smaller or larger hook size, I can decrease or increase my stitches to reach the desired measurement. That being said, you may still notice a difference in the tightness of your work depending on your project (what stitches you are using), type of yarn, tension, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T16:18:41.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="176" CreationDate="2022-04-29T18:29:13.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clove oil slows the curing, or cross linking, of linseed based oil paint.  I use a small sponge in a bottle cap and put a few drops of clove oil on it.  Then I place the clove cap on my palette (which is a glass sheet inside a covered rectangular Tupperware) and cover it.  Oil paint will stay fresh for a week or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12914" LastActivityDate="2022-04-29T18:29:13.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-04-29T19:36:41.277" Score="4" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started crocheting with a medium weight Viscose, Polyester, Nylon blend yarn and it likes to split a lot while I'm doing front post and back post double crochets as well as some other stitches. Does anyone have any tips on how to avoid splitting while I'm crocheting with these types of yarn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T15:23:19.003" Title="Tips for working with yarn that splits easily?" Tags="|crocheting|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11056" CreationDate="2022-04-30T06:41:42.693" Score="2" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make L plates (it is used for learner motorcycle riders in many countries) at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, I made it using a thick 250 gsm paper. I got L printed on it. But with time it faded and when I washed my bike, it got ruined. The color and paper became useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I found another solution to fix the color problem. I didn't print it this time. I got a red colored tape. And pasted it on the paper. It solved the color problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But still the paper is not waterproof and I need slightly more thick board. Something like 300 gsm would be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of what I would need: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/YYi_ZqrJycA?t=48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://youtu.be/YYi_ZqrJycA?t=48&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this video, you can see the board is thick and I feel it's not some cardboard. So it is most probably waterproof too. He tried to twist it. It was very flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want material like that. I could not find it online. Maybe I don't know exactly what to search for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest material I found out was this - made from some PVC material. But it is very small. I need at least 18 x 18 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ur2jP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ur2jP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So are there any other alternative material or solution to make this kind of board/plate?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T14:18:17.397" Title="What material(s) I can use to make this kind &quot;hard&quot; waterproof board at home?" Tags="|plastic|cardboard|pvc|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11055" CreationDate="2022-05-01T10:21:56.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often seen on a couple of YouTube channels the practice of recycling plastic bottles by melting and applying pressure in a form. It's HDPE and carries a number two recycle symbol. One &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpsXvO5LsTY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;useful video&lt;/a&gt; covers most of the details involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An inexpensive toaster oven is frequently used to bring the material to the correct temperature, which is then poured onto baking paper. A plank or other suitable pressure plate is applied while the plastic cools. The video shows the use of a flat plate sandwich maker type appliance and a silicone baking sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only complication I envision is that the material does not bond well to anything other than itself. This might require that markings be placed on the base (white) board, comprised of the same material of a different color, then heat and pressure applied to melt the markings into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very much waterproof and sturdy as the thickness can be adjusted by the creator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-05-01T10:21:56.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2022-05-01T13:28:15.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many sewing machines are designed with adjustable speed, but some of them may not be very sensitive. You can easily adjust the sewing speed from the screens of the sewing machines produced today and continue sewing instantly.  On some sewing machines, this setting is positioned at the bottom so that you can adjust it with a screwdriver.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you are looking for a sewing machine that can adjust the speed well, I use the Brother SE1900, and recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12915" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-05-01T17:17:45.593" LastActivityDate="2022-05-01T17:17:45.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11055" CreationDate="2022-05-01T20:44:37.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing you may be able to readily find, or salvage, is corrugated plastic board (looks like corrugated cardboard, but made from plastic sheet instead of paper).  It's commonly used for things like signs because it's rigid and durable.  But in terms of things you can make at home, here are a few ideas to add to fred_dot_u's suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuse plastic grocery bags into a stiff panel&lt;/strong&gt;.  Start with white bags, and cut off the printed area, which will show through.  Cut off the bottom seam and the handles so you're working with a rectangular sheet.  Fusing a lot of layers can make a sheet that has stiffness close to something like a plastic &amp;quot;manilla&amp;quot; folder.  That's typically done with the bag layers between sheets of oven parchment and an iron at a low to medium setting.  There are lots of online videos about fusing plastic bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fuse with a high setting, the bags shrivel up and develop melt holes.  But once a bunch of layers have been bonded at low heat, they maintain their size pretty well at higher heat (at low heat, the plastic softens enough to stick together with some pressure; at a temperature high enough to actually melt the plastic, it will behave like melted plastic, so don't get it that hot unless you're fusing layers thick enough to not develop melt holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something pretty rigid, like the example in the video in the question, you can make some panels as described above, then stack those between oven parchment and melt them together and press them in something like the food grill shown in the video in fred_dot_u's answer (probably not a good idea to use the grill for cooking food afterwards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it takes a ton of plastic bags, so you'll be saving the planet once you collect enough.  After cutting out the printed section, you can fold the resulting sheet so you're working with multiple layers.  It can easily take a dozen of those to get a stiff panel.  Fuse no more than about eight layers at a time, ironing one side, flipping it over and ironing the other, and repeating until it's fused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can start with several of these panels and fuse them together in a similar fashion using slightly higher heat, and flipping the sandwich repeatedly so the heat migrates through and softens the  mating faces in the middle.  Once the panels start getting thick, it becomes more practical to fuse them together into even thicker panels using something like a food press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to cover the sandwich with something like a heavy book until it cools to room temperature because it warps and curls otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;strong&gt;fuse layers of Tyvek&lt;/strong&gt; if you're careful, but it will take some experimentation and practice.  About eight layers of fused Tyvek starts getting reasonably stiff.  Use only plain white because any printing will show through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyvek doesn't seem to go through a softening stage like plastic bags, where the layers will stick together with a little pressure.  When it reaches a certain temperature (a low setting on an iron), it will shrink a a bit, and then the layers will melt together.  Starting with white Tyvek, the fused sheet becomes translucent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make panels from HDPE jugs&lt;/strong&gt;.  Gallon jugs from milk, vinegar, bleach, household ammonia, and some other stuff are usually HDPE, and bleach and ammonia jugs, and sometimes milk jugs, are white.  You should be able to cut panels of about the right size.  If you start with a round jug, you can flatten the curve in the cut sheet by warming it slowly on both sides until it softens a little.  Then lay it on a flat surface and cover it with some books until it cools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the jug wall isn't stiff enough, cut several panels and stack them.  If there's still a little curvature, put them back to back so they curve in opposite directions.  Then fuse the edges together by running a soldering iron or hot knife along the edge (no need to melt the entire sheets together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working with translucent sheets and need white, you can stick a piece of white paper between them (don't go all the way to the edges that you need to fuse).  You can fuse three sides to create a pocket, insert the paper, than fuse the last side.  You can create the &amp;quot;L&amp;quot; on the paper or stick tape on the inside of the sandwich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-05-01T20:44:37.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11055" CreationDate="2022-05-02T14:18:17.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deviating from previous suggestions into one that would require some extra legwork, but would avoid risk of fumes or burn injuries/damage, I'd suggest &lt;strong&gt;closed-cell PVC foamboard&lt;/strong&gt;, frequently known by the genericized brand name &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Sintra&lt;/strong&gt;.&amp;quot; While buying it new can be a bit costly, you can typically get smaller pieces of it for cheap, if not free, from local sign printing businesses, as its common use is for outdoor signage. I've been able to source a wide variety of scraps in multiple colors from signage shops by simply asking if they have scraps. It's durable, can be painted easily with any plastic-adhesion paint or primer, and is relatively easy to work using basic woodworking tools, so edges can be rounded off to avoid scratching paint on the motorcycle itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T14:18:17.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2022-05-02T19:09:49.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fitting techniques in knitting don't seem to be on the same level that they are for sewing.  What fitting information I can find mainly focus on the bust/waist/hip area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a forward shoulder adjustment requires a bit of geometry (ie. math).  Besides your gauge, you need to know 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;width of the shoulder area (ie. the value you would use to determine how many stitches across it is)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shoulder drop length (I have a normal 1.5&amp;quot; drop from the base of the neck to the end of my shoulders)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;amount to adjust the shoulder by (I need to remove 0.5&amp;quot; from the front and add 0.5&amp;quot; to the back).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to use stitches/rows here because that's what my shaping calculator uses internally, so it's easier for me to grab those numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my imaginary sweater pattern, I have a gauge of 4.25 st/in and 6 row/in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;21 stitches for the shoulder area that I would decrease over for the shoulder seam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 rows for a shoulder drop without a shoulder adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the forward shoulder adjustment, I need to either change by 2 stitches (for sleevecap adjustments) or 3 rows (shoulder seam adjustments).  Since we working with the shoulder seam (the sleevecap adjustments are too complicated to cover here), our adjusted rows for the shoulder drop look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 rows for the front (steeper slope)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 rows for the back (shallower slope)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you also need to make adjustments to the number of stitches wide the shoulder area is.  For that, we need to dig up the good old Pythagorean theorm:  a squared + b squared = c squared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculate the length of the slope:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sqrt(pow(rows / rows_per_inch, 2) + pow(stitches / stitches_per_inch, 2));&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of my slope for 9 rows and 21 stitches is 5.1638&amp;quot;.  Now I need to back solve the number of stitches based on this slope (hypotenuse) and the number of rows I have for both the front and the back.  If you don't do this, one piece will be much longer slope than the other and you have to do a bit of easing to get them to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;sqrt(pow(hypotenuse, 2) - pow(stitches / stitches_per_inch, 2)) * rows_per_inch;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 stitches for the front (rounded down from 20.233)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;22 stitches for the back (rounded up from 21.53)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, you evenly distribute the number of bind offs you need to do for each row on both the front and back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I knitted 3 samples of shoulder slopes (top to bottom):  back (22 stitches x 6 rows), front (20 stitches x 12 rows), normal (21 stitches x 9 rows).  I've marked stitch 10 from the left with a hot pink stitch marker (I did a column there of purls, but they don't show up very well on the right side).  The shaping is done with short rows to make the slope very distinct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GsdYo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GsdYo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now of course, if you have vertical stitch patterns, they're not going to match at the shoulder seams if you just knit according to your pattern.  However, depending on the stitch pattern, this might be something you could fudge by moving things over by a stitch.  In my sample, shifting the purl column by 1 stitch on both the front and back would have made them match, but that might not be the case for every point on the slope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcFGb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcFGb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12707" LastActivityDate="2022-05-02T19:09:49.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-03T20:19:25.740" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a bit of an odd question but I am a male crocheter who is trying to make lingerie and swimwear. I am wanting a diagram that shows various styles of bottoms and tops along with their associated names but out of deep respect for my wife and a desire to maintain my own standards, I want to ensure that any images displayed are not modeled on other women.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Does anyone know of any appropriate diagrams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am okay with it if they are diagrams of broader categories as well as specific ones. Modeled on mannequins is also totally fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-05-25T08:45:04.963" LastActivityDate="2022-05-25T08:45:04.963" Title="Appropriate diagrams for styles of lingerie/swimwear tops and bottoms?" Tags="|crocheting|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11064" CreationDate="2022-05-04T12:59:40.433" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 260 GSM photo paper (it is used to get photographs printed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I was really surprised to find out that it feels thinner as compared to my 250 GSM art papers. I expected that it would feel at least similar to my art paper's thickness, but it feels thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are A4 papers. If I try to hold the &lt;strong&gt;art paper&lt;/strong&gt; horizontally (parallel to ground) from one side in one hand, it doesn't bend easily due to gravity. It bends but it feels thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I tried same for this &lt;strong&gt;photo paper&lt;/strong&gt; and it bent easily. It also visually looks tiny bit thin as compared to the art paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm really curious if I actually got a 260 GSM photo paper or I got a wrong (e.g. less GSM) paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or this difference can be because art and photo papers are for different things? So the GSM varies? Or GSM unit is constant irrespective of paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T05:25:06.347" Title="Is GSM a &quot;constant&quot; unit irrespective of what the paper is intended to be used for?" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11301" CreationDate="2022-05-04T15:28:28.273" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am familiar with standard measurements like bust, cup, and hip/waist measurements but are there any other standard measurements that should be taken into account when crocheting custom swimwear? I want to ensure that the fit is absolutely perfect for those who make a custom order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastActivityDate="2022-10-18T09:10:55.960" Title="What measurements should I request from people when crocheting custom made-to-order swimwear?" Tags="|crocheting|measurements|clothing-fitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11062" CreationDate="2022-05-04T20:21:12.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;GSM is Grams per Square Meter, so yes, GSM is constant irrespective of the type of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an A4 format that might be difficult to judge by hand, however, since that would be little less than a 16th of a square meter, which, for 260 GMS, would weigh a little over 16 grams:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;260 / ((100x100cm)/(21x29.7cm)) ≈ 260/16.033 ≈ 16.22 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elasticity of paper has nothing to do with the weight (within practical limits :), but with things like the fibre density, the coating, other additives, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since for all I know you have a high sensitivity for feeling weights,  another option of course is that the package was incidentally wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T20:21:12.707" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11062" CreationDate="2022-05-05T05:25:06.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the GSM (grams per square meter) unit is constant irrespective of paper type. It's the most common (scientific) way to compare different thicknesses of paper and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:iso:536:ed-4:v1:en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ISO 536-2019&lt;/a&gt; is the (current) international standard that defines how manufacturers are to measure that value. &lt;em&gt;Unfortunately you have to pay for viewing the full content.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; measures the grammage or weight of paper, not any other properties like density or rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo printing paper is a highly specialized paper for exactly one use-case. It's probably not made of common office paper, but of paper pulp that was preprocessed in a certain way. To achieve a very uniform thickness throughout the entire paper, the paper pulp was probably ground very fine. And it's also coated with a special substance for printing. All that influences the density of the finished paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Art paper is also a specialized paper, but for a different use-case, requiring different properties. The raw material (usually wood chips) may not have been ground down to the same smooth pulp as in the photo paper, giving the art paper a less uniform thickness, but more rigidity and a lower density, because it traps tiny air bubbles inside the paper. In addition to that, art paper is usually acid free, which rules out certain processing  techniques of the paper pulp like acid baths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-05-05T05:25:06.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-06T19:50:10.183" Score="3" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make the edge of a diamond with chains in crochet with no stitches in the center of the diamond but I am unsure of the best way to get a 120 degree angle turn with only chains. I am needing what looks like a cookie cutter outline in the shape of a diamond. Is this even possible? If not, is there a stitch that I can use that will give me a clean looking obtuse angle with relatively few stitches? I need this exact shape with the space in the middle and everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUYP2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUYP2.png&quot; alt=&quot;diamond cookie cutter&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastEditorUserId="12899" LastEditDate="2022-05-10T19:32:00.670" LastActivityDate="2022-05-10T19:32:00.670" Title="How can I get a 120 degree angle with crochet chains?" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11069" CreationDate="2022-05-07T09:13:43.670" Score="5" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this folding canopy mechanism where arc-shaped spines are hinged around a central pivot?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BL5ss.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BL5ss.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pram hood&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVCl9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVCl9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ikea childrens' chair cover&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have googled high and low and coming up blank... feel like I'm missing a vital keyword! (&lt;code&gt;hood&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;parasol&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;concentric&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;collabsable&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;folding&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;retractable&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;nested&lt;/code&gt; ... ). It must have a name... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Context: I'm trying to build a &amp;quot;ladybird&amp;quot; cover for a festival trolley for our 18 month old daughter who is coming to Glastonbury festival with us this year.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12947" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-05-07T23:35:15.573" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T13:20:25.983" Title="What is the name of this kind of mechanism?" Tags="|fabric|technique-identification|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11067" CreationDate="2022-05-07T09:24:37.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Armadillo Flip&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pvGG8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pvGG8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gumrukdeposu.net/en/baby-care-products/5475-mamas-papas-armadillo-flip-xt-stroller-bebek-arabasi.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ubOo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ubOo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.solucionescontract.com/en/producto/armadillo-garden-swing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zbSPX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zbSPX.png&quot; alt=&quot;chair&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.homecrux.com/armadillo-chair-shields-your-child-inside-a-shell-like-space/22306/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2022-05-07T10:27:06.480" LastActivityDate="2022-05-07T10:27:06.480" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11067" CreationDate="2022-05-08T13:20:25.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, as far as I can tell, &lt;strong&gt;there doesn't seem to be a specific widely known name&lt;/strong&gt; for this kind of folding canopy mechanism.  That's not to say that it doesn't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; a name, but that all of the names and terms I've found are either so generic that they could apply to many different kinds of folding mechanisms, so obscure that they're likely to draw blank stares from most people (and few search results from Google) even if they're familiar with the mechanism, or they have multiple meanings that can confuse people (and Google) if you use them without additional context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you really want a name for it, I do have one for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It's a &lt;em&gt;calash top&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, the term &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wordsmith.org/words/calash.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;calash&lt;/a&gt; (also spelled &lt;em&gt;caleche&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;calèche&lt;/em&gt;) can refer to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a type of horse-drawn carriage (also known as a &lt;em&gt;barouche&lt;/em&gt;) with a soft folding hood over the rear seats, using a folding mechanism similar to what you depict;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &lt;em&gt;calash top&lt;/em&gt;, the folding top of the aforementioned carriage, or one similar to it; or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &lt;em&gt;calash bonnet&lt;/em&gt;, a type of 18th century women's headgear resembling the hood of the calash carriage, and also using a similar (although simpler) folding mechanism.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Abraham_Lincoln%27s_carriage_(barouche),_c._1860-1865,_on_loan_from_the_Studebaker_National_Museum,_view_2_-_National_Museum_of_American_History_-_DSC00334.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PidhO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Green_Calash_Bonnet.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88OTO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Pictures: 1) A calash or barouche carriage, showing the distinctive folding top. &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Abraham_Lincoln%27s_carriage_(barouche),_c._1860-1865,_on_loan_from_the_Studebaker_National_Museum,_view_2_-_National_Museum_of_American_History_-_DSC00334.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photo&lt;/a&gt; taken by Wikimedia Commons user &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Daderot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Daderot&lt;/a&gt; in the National Museum of American History, Washington, DC, and released to the public domain via the &lt;a href=&quot;https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/deed.en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CC-Zero 1.0&lt;/a&gt; public domain dedication. 2) A green silk taffeta calash bonnet. &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Green_Calash_Bonnet.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photo&lt;/a&gt; courtesy of the Missouri Historical Society, St. Louis, via Wikimedia Commons.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=calash&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google image search for &lt;em&gt;calash&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, you'll probably get about an even mix of the headgear and the carriages.  And, of course, a bunch of random results like hotels and companies and health supplements named &amp;quot;Calash&amp;quot;, as well as a mix of other types of horse-drawn carriages that may or may not be properly called calashes, despite not having the distinctive calash top.  A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=calash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;general web search&lt;/a&gt; first brings up a bunch of dictionary definitions, followed by mostly of random pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has an article for the carriage (under &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barouche&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;barouche&lt;/a&gt;), but apparently none for the headgear yet, although it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; mentioned in the general article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bonnets&lt;/a&gt;.  At least Wikimedia Commons has pictures of both the &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Barouches&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carriages&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Calashes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;headgear&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, it does not seem to be a widely used term at all.  But it's probably the best name there is for what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least, for what it's worth, if you &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=%22calash%22+baby+cart&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;search Google for &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;calash&amp;quot; baby cart&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (with quotes to force the word &amp;quot;calash&amp;quot; to be included in the results), you'll get a bunch of images showing baby carriages with similar hoods as in your question.  Then again, searching e.g. for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=convertible+baby+cart&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;convertible baby cart&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; also brings up a very similar set of images.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://thesaurus.plus/synonyms/calash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some sites&lt;/a&gt; even claim that &amp;quot;calash&amp;quot; can be a generic synonym for a baby carriage, or at least for the kind with a folding top.  So take it for what it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="289" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T13:20:25.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-12T03:38:40.633" Score="7" ViewCount="1958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to crochet a half sphere.&#xA;I can crochet a ball, no problem (I'm crocheting in the round, by the way). However, I can't find any (readable) patterns for a half-ball (meaning a ball cut in half).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried a few guesses, but I can't figure out how to make the end of the sphere flat, and not rounded as I increase or decrease (depending on if I start at the half or the end of the ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, I want to make a lemon that looks cut in half, like what's shown in this picture.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zb8h5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got that image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://knittingday.com/5293/crochet-lemon-free-pattern&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, which does have instructions, but they're unreadable (it has strange words mixed in)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just need to figure how to make a half-ball.&#xA;Does anyone have a pattern or any guidance on how to make the end of the half ball flat (or as flat as possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9817" LastEditorUserId="9817" LastEditDate="2022-05-12T03:49:03.000" LastActivityDate="2022-05-15T17:00:25.603" Title="Crochet Half Sphere/Ball" Tags="|crocheting|amigurumi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-12T03:45:47.420" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to crochet a disc like object. Really, I want to make a lemon slice.&#xA;However, I can't figure out how to make the disc flat, and not rounded. I'm not sure if I need to make my decreasing/increasing more intense, or something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want something like in this pic:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j2AYW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j2AYW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://knittingday.com/5293/crochet-lemon-free-pattern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; (where I got the pic) with a pattern, but it's not readable (there's strange words mixed in). I can't find anything else related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any patterns or guidance on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9817" LastActivityDate="2022-05-12T03:45:47.420" Title="Crochet A Round Disc" Tags="|crocheting|amigurumi|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2023-02-01T08:20:49.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11073" CreationDate="2022-05-12T09:42:14.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's try to get more sense out of the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been auto-translated from Russian by the look of things. Provjazyaem = Провязяем = (We) knit (according to Google with help from &lt;a href=&quot;https://translit.cc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://translit.cc/&lt;/a&gt;), with Vyvjazyvaem having a similar meaning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ubavlenij = Убавлений = Decrease&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stjagivaem = Стягиваем = Tighten&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That page links to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.liveinternet.ru/users/saraeva_ekaterina/post406433047/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the original Russian pattern&lt;/a&gt; and Google seems to do a bit better at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www-liveinternet-ru.translate.goog/users/saraeva_ekaterina/post406433047/?_x_tr_sl=auto&amp;amp;_x_tr_tl=en&amp;amp;_x_tr_hl=en-US&amp;amp;_x_tr_pto=wapp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;translating it&lt;/a&gt;.  There are still deficiencies - &amp;quot;1р&amp;quot; in the Russian seems to mean &amp;quot;1st row&amp;quot; (the Russian &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Er_(Cyrillic)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Er&lt;/a&gt; looks like the Latin/English P but matches our R).  It also seems to convert ст (=st = stitch?) into Tbsp (tablespoons!) at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I speak about as little crochet as I do Russian, but Google with these more obvious fixes should help quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do know from having lived with a crocheter is that shaping the stuffing as you put it in will be critical to the finished shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2022-05-15T17:00:25.603" LastActivityDate="2022-05-15T17:00:25.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11080" CreationDate="2022-05-13T02:55:52.720" Score="8" ViewCount="2759" Body="&lt;p&gt;An earlier question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/183/how-can-i-laminate-with-contact-paper-without-leaving-bubbles&quot;&gt;How can I laminate with contact paper without leaving bubbles?&lt;/a&gt;, asked about covering books with adhesive contact paper, presumably to provide some protection.  The image in the question was of clear adhesive plastic film sold for the purpose of protecting paper documents, books, etc.  The specific example shown was a product called Transpaseal, which is described as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transpaseal book covering film.  Self adhesive rolls of durable plastic film.  Ideal for covering all types of books or design work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other similar products, and one would assume that a product sold for the purpose of protecting books and paper documents would be designed to protect them.  It ought to be possible to verify that the product is actually suitable for the purpose; e.g., the adhesive is non-acidic, and doesn't break down in long-term use, etc.  Purchasers could check reviews to verify that a particular product didn't destroy other people's books or documents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can also assume a degree of common sense, like not gluing plastic film to an heirloom book, or one whose value depends on it being in mint condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An upvoted comment on the earlier question says that contact paper is a terrible method of book conservation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we stick to protecting non-rare books from the wear and tear of normal, regularly-occurring use, is it, in fact, a terrible method?  Why?  Does this apply to any and all cold adhesive lamination films, or could films of certain types/specifications be a good solution to protecting books?  Would the material/construction of the book's cover make a difference in this advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T18:54:38.063" Title="Is laminating books with adhesive plastic film a bad idea (and why)?" Tags="|paper|lamination|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11076" CreationDate="2022-05-13T05:56:05.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can offer one data point in favour - the dictionary I used in school and covered with plastic film 30+ years ago shows no signs of excess acid damage (yellowing, brittleness) on the endpapers, including under the film on the insides of the covers. This appears to be good quality commercial printing paper, clearly not art paper, and shows some signs of age as well as of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic itself shouldn't be an issue for acidity, and common glues, apart from bone glue, can easily be acid-free. If the glue was acidic I'd expect to show quite clearly by now where it's in contact with white paper.  A couple of textbooks from only 25 hears ago don't show this, and the plastic may even have been from the same roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However even on the inside the film itself has yellowed slightly (I can't tell on the outside over the red cover with gold lettering). I pealed up a corner very gently to check it wasn't the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I can't tell if they've changed the formulation, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.whsmith.co.uk/products/whsmith-self-adhesive-book-covering-film-5m-roll/0000030600294.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is almost certainly what I used - own brand from the biggest UK chain of stationers, and the backing paper looks like I remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that my original use is probably the main intended use - adding toughness to protect against rough handling,  spills, etc. for a few years, rather than archival (for which non adhesive films are sold), but that may have or to do with the inherent damage to the book caused by the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2022-05-13T08:04:46.193" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T08:04:46.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2022-05-13T13:35:18.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My procedure as learned from a librarian (those books are covered with a thicker kind to make them last longer, but it also works with the thinner kind):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Move the book, not the foil.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark and cut the foil to the required size. Gently fold and mark the center line with a small cut, this will leave the foil with a small notch, unlike markings on the paper. (Alternatively, waterproof pen on the foil should work too, but needs more equipment, you have the scissors out anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the foil paper-side up on the table and gently pull off the backing on the side away from you until slightly beyond the central line - basically enough for one side plus the spine plus a small margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gently place the spine of the book along the center (use the notches for alignment). For thin books, just put it on, for wider spines, start at one vertical side and gently roll it onto the foil, using the curve of the back. (Paperbacks sometimes are curved inwards, in that case, use the process for the front &amp;amp; back cover as described below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then tilt the book slightly &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from you and use it to pull the whole setup towards the edge of your table. Then guide the book down along the edge, so that the table edge works like a straight edge. As the foil remains flat on the table (and usually there’s also a bit of static helping it cling to the table), there’s very little risk of air bubbles forming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finish the edges of this side (cut and fold as needed) first, then turn the book around so that you can repeat the process for the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastActivityDate="2022-05-13T13:35:18.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11073" CreationDate="2022-05-13T15:50:23.547" Score="9" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cut face of the lemon is a flat circle in pale yellow. You start with a magic ring and proceed in a spiral in single crochet (in US terminology) with 6st in the first circle&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; and &lt;em&gt;roughly&lt;/em&gt; increasing 6st per full circle. It's important to stagger the increases or you'll get a hexagon. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/how-to-crochet-a-circle-4051535&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for example for a more detailed tutorial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The last round of the flat face is worked in white to represent the pith. The radial lines separating the segments are embroidered (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; crocheted) using the same white thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You then move to dark yellow to represent the peel. You can try the slightly less incomprehensible translation from &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/11075/12976&quot;&gt;Chris H's answer&lt;/a&gt; to work out the exact stitch numbering, but in general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;sharp&amp;quot; corners (like the edge where the lemon is &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot;) are often obtained by over-increasing in one round and decreasing back in the next (this is probably why the lemon looks like it's got a bit of a &amp;quot;collar&amp;quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you may want to decrease a bit less frequently than you would do for a perfect sphere in order to get the oval lemony effect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as Chris alludes to, stuffing will be crucial for shape here (all crochet yearns to be a ball), and I would recommend something spongy that you can cut into a half-sphere rather that loose stuffing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Edit&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking at the picture on a bigger screen than my phone, I now suspect that the two parts are worked separately and sewn together. The flat part is pale yellow, then one row white, &lt;em&gt;then one row dark yellow&lt;/em&gt;; the lemon-shaped half is worked starting from the nubby tip and progressing like a sphere that stops at the widest point. Make sure that the two pieces end up with the same number of stitches on the edge. You then join the two pieces by either sewing the edges together or potentially working a slip stitch row hooking each stitch into &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; stitches, one from the peel and one from the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]: These first 6st may have been done in white for the central pith, but you don't have to, you can embroider over (point 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastEditorUserId="12976" LastEditDate="2022-05-14T10:58:39.427" LastActivityDate="2022-05-14T10:58:39.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11076" CreationDate="2022-05-13T19:54:51.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/11076/is-laminating-books-with-adhesive-plastic-film-a-bad-idea-and-why?newreg=42ae2f11e00e436a93a9f254d9b66732#comment13557_11076&quot;&gt;fixer1234&lt;/a&gt;'s direction that we should assume the artist is binding their own books - then permanent, self adhesive cold lamination is a viable method. It is worth noting that many of these films expand and shrink with heat and cold. The artist should take care to apply the method allowing for a 1/8th of overlap in any seamed areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, were it my book I would likely avoid this method. Contact paper and even archival self-adhesive coatings are unlikely to be removed without some damage to the book. Even repositionable glues tend to stick harder the longer they are in contact with paper. If I went through the effort to create the piece, I would not want to risk any damage and would opt for Fold-On Archival Book Jackets. These adhere to themselves, and not to the book. They add rigidity and protect from minor water and scratch damage. These have the added benefit of being replaceable, so if they become scratched, faded, or yellowed, I can put on new ones and still maintain the beauty of my bound book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12979" LastEditorUserId="2335" LastEditDate="2022-06-30T18:54:38.063" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T18:54:38.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-17T11:19:38.397" Score="2" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several model paints that I use for miniature painting which I need to use in order to maintain color consistency. In their natural state they are too thin for my taste. Almost like an ink or a wash (They're supposed to be regular paints, not specialist or contrast paints). They tend to run into small details, and I need to use a lot more coats than usual in order to provide consistent coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to thicken these paints slightly. For example, some kind of additive that I could mix in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving it on a pallet for a while helps but it's not 100% consistent each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I'm looking for alternative paints of the same color from other suppliers, but that's a different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T04:07:15.620" Title="How do I thicken acrylic model paint in a consistent manner?" Tags="|material-selection|paint|material-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11076" CreationDate="2022-05-17T13:53:02.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally do not use any methods of preserving books that's not reversible because if that protective layer becomes damaged itself, it cannot be replaced with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T13:53:02.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11082" CreationDate="2022-05-17T16:24:11.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic paint is sold in different viscosities for different purposes. It is basically acrylic medium plus pigment.  The acrylic medium is the binder that holds the pigment together when it dries.  It's watery, and depends on the water to keep the acrylic polymer dilute so it doesn't start to cure.  If you let it start to dry, it will begin to cure. That will give you a short working period when the paint is more viscous, but it isn't really a solution to your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pigment can consist of colored and non-colored powders that don't go into solution.  Non-colored pigments can be used as thickeners or to add inexpensive bulk.  The colored pigment is the expensive part, and also acts like a thickener. What you need is more pigment, best added in the form of a paste-consistency material that adds more binder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a very similar color in thicker acrylic paint, you can mix in some of that to thicken it.  Otherwise, there are some things you can add to your paint to thicken it.  Some will affect the color and some will affect the opacity without changing the color much.  Some can affect the glossiness of the dried paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is heavy-body acrylic gel medium designed as a thickener.  This is a paste-like acrylic gel that looks white/translucent, but dries clear.  It will thicken the paint, but will also further dilute the already-sparing pigment.  Depending on how much you add, it could affect the opacity, so it could potentially require several coats or a thicker coat.  Since the gel medium contains its own binder, it won't degrade the strength of the dried paint film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other materials you can use to thicken the paint, but they typically add white, which will desaturate the color, and may affect the strength of the paint film.  These include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gesso&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;modelling paste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paste made from talcum powder and either PVA glue or Mod Podge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have used a paste made from cooking starch or flour with water, but the resulting paint is likely to get attacked by micro-organisms.  You can thicken the paint with various dry powders, but that is likely to make the paint film brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joachim raises a good point in a comment that if the miniatures are plastic, any additive could affect how well the paint adheres if your paint is specifically formulated for plastic.  It may take some experimentation, and any effect will be tied to the amount of material you add.  You can always prime the miniatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-05-18T04:07:15.620" LastActivityDate="2022-05-18T04:07:15.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11076" CreationDate="2022-05-17T16:58:40.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specific question on the title is: &amp;quot;Is laminating books with adhesive plastic film a bad idea (and why)?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say, this depends on the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to protect a book that means that it has value to you. There are books that clearly need protection, like textbooks from elementary school. Although they can be reused and preserved, they also have a &amp;quot;limited&amp;quot; life expectancy. Adhesive plastic has clear advantages and will really protect the book from liquids as well as general wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on some other books, it would be totally out of the question. Especially hardcover books, artbooks, or encyclopedia-type. The operation is &amp;quot;irreversible.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I covered all my art books (soft and hardcovers) with non-adhesive plastic and very small pieces of tape, not pasted on the book, but on the plastic itself so the plastic covers fit like a &amp;quot;sock.&amp;quot; After many years, the tape shrank a bit leaving a small line of glue. The plastic is now dull, but the books are, as I intended, protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with novel-like books, I would not use adhesive to cover them. Who knows, the novel you have could be a first printing and is or may become a collectible item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12990" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2022-05-17T17:29:23.200" LastActivityDate="2022-05-17T17:29:23.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-19T04:54:47.810" Score="4" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nice geode sample that is sadly structurally unsound, and I am looking for a solution to make it sturdier so I don't run as much of a risk of it breaking on me. I have a separate geode that has a black material on it that seems like it makes said geode more structurally sound. What material is it? I have tried googling to find an answer, but I have been unable to find a proper answer. I am looking to figure out what it is so I may get some to use on my other geode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material is rather sturdy, heavy, and cool to the touch. The lower &amp;quot;mass&amp;quot; of the dark stuff feels like concrete, though I can not tell what the coating on the outside is made of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKYtx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKYtx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Geode_Cathedral_with_material&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mBKYn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mBKYn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Another_Picture_of_it&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2945" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-05-19T09:20:13.770" LastActivityDate="2022-05-19T09:20:13.770" Title="What is holding this geode together and how?" Tags="|technique-identification|material-identification|lapidary|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-20T14:02:50.003" Score="3" ViewCount="2473" Body="&lt;p&gt;My twist pen was working just fine until I put it up to do something and came back to start again.  Now when I twist, it has no stop and the point won't come out.  There is no turning friction when I twist the pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unaware of what brand it is and there is no visible problem with it. I can take off the very top, which holds the clip, and that's all.  It won't pull apart, and it isn't obvious how to access the inside, or the refill for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vK6SM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vK6SM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12998" LastEditorUserId="1269" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T09:28:19.003" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T09:28:19.003" Title="How can I fix my twist pen that no longer extends the point?" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-20T16:01:22.707" Score="1" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rasp that no longer works and I found out it's made of 1090 steel, and want to use it to make a tomahawk, but I can't find the proper temperature for quenching.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In case that's important: I use a gas forge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12998" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-05-20T16:10:34.937" LastActivityDate="2022-05-20T19:26:57.303" Title="Any quenching tips for 1090 steel?" Tags="|metalworking|metal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11088" CreationDate="2022-05-20T19:26:57.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A challenge depending on how hard you want it to be. Assuming it is carbon steel. No alloy means low hardenability so it need a severe quench to make high hardness. The high carbon means it is more susceptible to cracking during a severe quench. For a hatchet, a combination of adequate toughness with limited hardness should be possible. A hardness of HRC 30 to 40 appears very possible according to Jominy bar hardness and that should be very satisfactory. The TTT curves( time, temperature, transformation) for 1080 steel ( 0.8 Carbon) indicates it needs to cool to below 250 F in about one minute.  So an oil quench from about 1550F may be good depending on thickness of the part. Sounds like a good senior project for metallurgy students. It may be more hit or miss as a &amp;quot;do it yourself&amp;quot; project. A big advantage would be a hardness tester. There are a fair number of variables such as loosing carbon during hot forging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2022-05-20T19:26:57.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-21T04:07:31.943" Score="4" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to oil paintings and I have found that black is very difficult to work with.  I’d like to do some dark/goth paintings but I’m having trouble making the black blend to grey.  The transition doesn’t look smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13010" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-05-22T00:19:43.107" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T13:58:25.063" Title="How to blend black to grey for dark paintings?" Tags="|oil-paint|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2022-05-21T17:41:10.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fundamentals of painting and color theory: black is rarely used (of course it can be in certain instances). But when observing with the human eye, shadows or dark colors in general are typically dark blues, greens and purples. Taking black and adding white to it to make gray might actually be quite difficult to get exactly what you want, and might come out as muddled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at artwork such as by Monet, or even Rembrandt, the colors used in their darker paintings aren't actually black. You might find they are dark greens, or dark yellows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The artist in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/KtSh1zQbyqw?t=36&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; explains in detail, making a richer, tuned off-black from complementary colors, that can be lightened with white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-05-22T00:11:45.520" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T00:11:45.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11096" CreationDate="2022-05-22T21:25:17.270" Score="8" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make some clothes designed for my wife, who is plus-sized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the basics of bust, waist, high hip, hip, but I've never taken measurements before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences I can see from guides online are things like, do I measure the hips under the belly fold? How do I find the correct places to measure if guides expect the belly button to be elsewhere or the waist to be the narrowest part of the body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="386" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T22:05:58.290" Title="How to take the measurements of a plus-sized woman?" Tags="|sewing|preparation|measurements|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11095" CreationDate="2022-05-23T19:48:21.407" Score="3" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Context for this question is that we're thinking of using a hard-cover book as a guestbook for an upcoming wedding. We would be putting polaroid pictures inside this guestbook. The hard-cover book is not designed for this, but is a textbook that's relevant to the couple. The worry is that putting polaroids inside the book would prevent the book from closing. I am wondering if case-bound books' binds are perfectly sized to the pages they contain or if there is some wiggle room. Also would placing a weight on top of the book for a couple of days allow things to &amp;quot;squeeze&amp;quot; into place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13020" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T11:09:41.250" Title="Are case-bound books sized to the number of pages they contain?" Tags="|paper|book-binding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11092" CreationDate="2022-05-23T21:06:28.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of related considerations for how to apply the measurements, not just the locations where you take them.  But I'll limit this to just where to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the person's physique, the objective is for the clothing to hang in a flattering way, with a minimum requirement that it isn't tight in any place that causes it to constrict, ride up or down, stretch out of shape, or stress seams or closures like buttons or zippers. That generally means the important measurements are wherever the minimum and maximum dimensions are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the person's measurements for minimum and maximum dimensions are in the typical places, you can measure in the typical places. If the person's shape profile puts minimums or maximums in places that are a little different, measure wherever captures that information, and include everything that the garment will be exterior to (like body folds, undergarments, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the minimums or maximums don't correspond to the anatomical reference points in the pattern guide, you may need to adjust the pattern, or use a different pattern that's a better match to the person's shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more a person's shape or proportions differ from the average for which a particular pattern was designed, the more you will need to supplement those measurements, and adjust the pattern, to produce a good fit.  There are also other options for a person who is hard to fit using off-the-shelf patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-05-24T10:19:35.127" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T10:19:35.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11093" CreationDate="2022-05-24T11:09:41.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are, with a bit of slack.  If you stick too much in, the book will become misshapen and eventually the spine will be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just happen to have a stack of lab books on my desk.  These are case-bound, and have had printouts stuck in (office paper, so thinner than polaroids).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ajS5W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ajS5W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lab books&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the bottom one on this stack is somewhat stressed.  The middle one is probably twice as thick as a new book, and the top one has got so stressed from being overstuffed and used repeatedly that the spin has come off completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to just stick a few photos in, you can get away with it, but if you're thinking of photos on a lot of the pages, a different solution would be better.  I also have holiday note/scrapbooks at home.  These were typically made using notebooks that were themselves a souvenir, and get quite misshapen.  But they're better if you keep the photos away from the spine, and distribute them over the area of the page.  The worst case would be a full-width photo at the top of every page, with writing underneath.  Putting photos face-to-face isn't always a good idea anyway, certainly not with inkjet printed photos, so photos on facing pages should be offset in case they stick together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're starting from a textbook rather than a book designed to be added to, apart from not having much space for writing, you may find the binding is tighter to start with, leaving less room for stretch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T11:09:41.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11092" CreationDate="2022-05-24T22:05:58.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guides for measurements are frequently extremely limited; most commercial patterns are sized by bust, waist, and hip alone-- perhaps inseam if you're lucky. However, measurements for fitted garments frequently require far more precision, as seen below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hIdzv.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hIdzv.png&quot; alt=&quot;an in-depth form for measuring a person's body&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this doesn't necessarily solve the problem of measuring a body that doesn't fit societal norms, and as a plus-size sewist, there's a few tricks I've found for measuring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bust:&lt;/strong&gt; The bust measurement should be taken around the fullest part of the chest, usually over the nipple. To ensure an accurate measurement, this should be done on a person who is already wearing whatever bra they intend to wear with the final garment. Take care that the measuring tape remains parallel to the floor around the entire bust; if it's at an angle, the number will be incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For plus-size or busty people, always take the underbust measurement as well. The overwhelming majority of patterns are drafted for a B or C cup, with some going up to a D cup. This means that these patterns expect a bust measurement that is two to four inches larger than the underbust; if the cup size is larger than these values, the pattern will need adjustment to fit correctly (which I can advise on further, if needed, but is probably beyond the scope of this question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waist:&lt;/strong&gt; Usually, the waist is described as the smallest part of the torso, but as you have noted, this is not always the case in plus-size people. To find the waistline, have the person bend their torso to the side. The point where the body naturally bends (usually just below the bottom of the ribcage) is where the waistline measurement should be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hip:&lt;/strong&gt; For the sake of comfort, I would include the lower portion of the belly in the high hip. The low hip should be taken around the widest point of the hips and buttocks. Again, make sure that the measuring tape is parallel to the floor here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the distribution of fat tissue, it may also be important to measure the size of the arms and legs, especially the upper arms and thighs. However, these limbs vary more dramatically from person to person, and will depend on your wife's specific weight distribution and musculature. (As an example, due to my exercise habits, I frequently need to check sizing against my calves, because I accumulate fat tissue evenly across my body and enjoy hiking.) She may have some input on this and be able to tell you which parts of clothing frequently do not fit her correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11189" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T22:05:58.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11061" CreationDate="2022-05-24T22:12:14.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best sources for diagrams like this is Mood Sewciety. They are a fabric seller, but also have a variety of free patterns and guides to different types of skirts and sleeves that I reference regularly. They do also have a guide to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/types-of-swimsuit-silhouettes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;various swimsuit silhouettes&lt;/a&gt; which is illustrated entirely with drawings. Some of their pages do have photos of actual women modelling some of their swimsuit patterns, but none are present on this specific page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11189" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T22:12:14.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11130" CreationDate="2022-05-25T18:20:30.727" Score="4" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter decided she wanted to making something out of wood, and the resulting wagon for toys is being painted with leftover household gloss paint in various colours (mainly by me as it's &amp;quot;stinky&amp;quot;).  Since we started painting, she's thinking about decorating on top of the gloss paint with a wide range of colours.  So far the project has used solely materials we had to hand, and that means her paints if we want plenty of colours; the best by far are acrylics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reasonable way to use these over gloss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gloss should be quicker and harder drying than artist's oils, discussed &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/3887/319&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; though I haven't handled the latter for decades.  The piece is also small enough that we can warm it to speed up curing (even in an oven, but in full sun the air inside my van can reach 40 °C and it can go weeks without being driven).  As this is a kid's project, it's likely to get some rough handling, but doesn't have to last forever.  I have water-based varnish (for wood) here, and I've often used oil-based paints over water-based successfully in DIY, but water-based over oil-based less so.&#xA;oil-based&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T13:47:15.190" Title="Can I paint with acrylics over household gloss paint (oil-based)?" Tags="|paint|acrylic-paint|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-26T16:59:44.383" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Below is the anatomy of a sandal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2kbVn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2kbVn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;midsole&lt;/em&gt; is found in shoes, too, and I think that they serve the same purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; What are the properties that should exist in a midsole for daily casual wearer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt; daily casual midsole must have these properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be flexible and maintain its flexibility despite water, salt, sun (UV).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should protect the feet from sharp objects, such as small rock pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be lightweight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best choices for mid/out-soles that I found so far seem to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EVA foam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Synthetic rubber (used in tires).  This is perhaps more suitable for outsoles (part facing the ground).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking forward to hear your properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11001" LastEditorUserId="11001" LastEditDate="2022-05-27T18:43:39.993" LastActivityDate="2023-02-07T08:55:49.743" Title="What kind of properties to look for in the rubber that is used in the midsole of shoes or sandals?" Tags="|leather|rubber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-27T13:10:46.890" Score="7" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would I need to search for online to get the type of wood that is used to make these budget displays stands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have a proper name or description?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXdWA.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXdWA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T09:00:21.140" Title="What is the proper name for the material that these cheap displays stands are made from?" Tags="|material-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11101" CreationDate="2022-05-27T15:20:55.967" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty confident that's laser cut plywood.  The dark edges give away the laser cutting and ply is strong enough and stiff enough even down to a few mm thick.  It's also cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser cutting is a cheap process if you have access to a laser cutter, but the setup costs are high.  You may be able to find somewhere locally that does it commercially.  However you can make something similar with a bandsaw or jigsaw and hole saws or spade-type wood drill bits (with scrapwood behind) if your time isn't too valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-05-27T15:20:55.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11101" CreationDate="2022-05-28T00:35:04.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks laser cut, the burnt edges are the giveaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clearly an engineered sheet material rather than natural wood. I suspect it's most likely plywood but it's also possible it's MDF (cheaper but weaker). You should be able to tell the difference with a close visual inspection, MDF will be uniform while plywood will have a discernible grain direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the plywood and mdf used for laser cutting are usually sold specifically for the purpose. The plywood is of a much more consistent quality than regular plywood. Also the glues used in constructing the material will be of types suitable for use with laser cutters. You can find the stuff by searching for terms like &amp;quot;laser plywood&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;laserply&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;laser MDF&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="584" LastEditorUserId="584" LastEditDate="2022-05-28T09:00:21.140" LastActivityDate="2022-05-28T09:00:21.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-28T09:22:14.937" Score="5" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should I look for in a laser cutter intended to cut 3mm plywood with the aim of making custom shelves to display painted miniatures or to make the base structure for table top gaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, laser type, laser power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-13T19:38:14.577" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T19:38:14.577" Title="What kind of laser cutter is required to cut 3mm plywood" Tags="|tool-selection|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11104" CreationDate="2022-05-28T21:57:23.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical hobbyist laser will either be a diode laser or a CO2 laser, when the focus is 3 mm plywood. I have both, with the diode laser having an optical output power of 5 Watts at 100% power. The CO2 laser is a 60 Watt unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diode laser will cut laser-grade 3 mm plywood but can take up to seven passes at fairly slow travel speeds, along with substantial charring of the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CO2 laser will easily cut the same laser-grade 3 mm plywood in a single pass, at reasonably fast speed and minimal to zero charring of the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't recall the travel speed of my diode laser as it's become a dust collector, but the first job that was done on both machines went from a duration of forty-five minutes on the diode laser to about five, perhaps ten on the CO2 machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost plays quite a factor in these machines. A reasonably powerful CO2 machine will require some means of liquid (distilled water) cooling, while the diode versions are almost always air cooled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CO2 lasers generate smoke, as do the diode lasers, but the cabinet of a CO2 machine has an exhaust port to which an exhaust blower is connected, with the exhaust directed to a window or similar vent. A diode laser usually has none of the above, unless a specific product is selected for this feature. Glowforge may have that feature, but it is not a popular machine in the laser community, due to mandatory internet connectivity for operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Software for using either type of laser varies, with &lt;a href=&quot;https://lightburnsoftware.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LightBurn&lt;/a&gt; rapidly becoming the program of choice. It works with both types, is well supported and tremendously easy to use. Consider to visit the LightBurn forum for discussions regarding both types of lasers as well as the program features. &lt;a href=&quot;https://lightburnsoftware.com/pages/tutorials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt; has a number of videos from the creator which may be of value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other information to assist your decision can be found on various forums and involve much discussion regarding accessories for CO2 laser machines, cooling options for CO2 machines. Too much to cover in this resource, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2022-06-05T10:35:26.170" LastActivityDate="2022-06-05T10:35:26.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-28T22:02:16.743" Score="3" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing an art project which involves a chemical reaction (ideally available easily like alcohol, bleach, acetone etc). I'm using acrylic paint/ ink on glass. I want my painting to have fractals, something like the image below to make it blister. Any suggestions on which chemical I can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtDCB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtDCB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which chemical/ substance would eat up/ scatter the paint like the below image?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12163" LastEditorUserId="12163" LastEditDate="2022-05-28T22:54:37.363" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T10:39:06.773" Title="Which chemical/ substance could help make fractals in acrylic paint on glass?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|ink|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11106" CreationDate="2022-05-28T22:40:42.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife enjoyed the effect of acrylic paint on glass. There may be a term for the process, although it escapes my alleged mind. The technical side of this purported grey matter suggested, with limited success, the use of a hydrophobic coating such as RainX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When applied to glass in the proscribed manner, it caused bubbling within the areas to which it was applied. One can apply it to the entire glass or to selected areas as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another hydrophobic coating is known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.neverwet.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NeverWet&lt;/a&gt;. It may not be perfectly transparent, but that might not be a factor if you're removing the acrylic from the glass after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My search for other products using &amp;quot;hydrophobic coating for glass&amp;quot; provided many results if the above is not practical/useful for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been informed that acrylic removed from glass is called &amp;quot;strappo.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a suggestion due to the &amp;quot;in home&amp;quot; comment...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone based materials will mostly reject water. There are a number of lubricants that are silicone based, but they aren't necessarily in every home. Substances that are petroleum based, such as petroleum jelly and petroleum lubricants (WD-40) may also create a surface to reject water, when applied to glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay away from soap-like substances as they perform in the opposite manner and will attract water and cause the surface tension to be reduced, allowing a greater, smoother spread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2022-05-29T00:23:24.990" LastActivityDate="2022-05-29T00:23:24.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-29T01:40:59.700" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a method/tutorial for building an electric furnace that has the capacity to handle around 10kg/22lb of aluminium?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13034" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-05-29T02:51:53.540" LastActivityDate="2022-05-29T02:51:53.540" Title="Looking for advice on making an electric furnace that can handle 10kg/22lb of aluminium" Tags="|metalworking|metal|casting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2022-05-30T20:04:53.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-29T03:35:05.670" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best thing to do after an error mid-firing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: I started a cone 6 glaze firing (honyaki) this morning in the hope I could beat the outside temperature (predicted to get to 31°C (87.8°F).&#xA;I had windows opened in the morning and fans directed at the kiln/controller unit but around&#xA;8 hours into the firing at a temperature of 1200°C (2192°F), I got an error message &amp;quot;E-db&amp;quot;, meaning that the controller board detected a high internal temperature and stopped the firing. I have restarted a firing in the past after a power issue, but in this case, the error blocks the kiln from directly starting again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using an Excel Select Fire model EX324SF. I was firing a cone 6 with a 25-minute hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I continue/restart firing the kiln after an error?&#xA;What is the best thing to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13035" LastEditorUserId="13035" LastEditDate="2022-05-29T22:51:29.547" LastActivityDate="2022-05-29T22:51:29.547" Title="Can I continue/restart firing kiln after error" Tags="|ceramics|pottery|kiln|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11106" CreationDate="2022-05-30T10:22:21.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I completely understand what your result should look like, but the example image is most likely created using acryllic pouring technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works by covering a canvas with a relatively thick layer of base paint (in this case it's black) and then pouring a relatively large volume of paint (in this case it's white) over the still wet base layer. Since both layers are wet, the paint can spread over the entire canvas and eventually level out. The blisters (more commonly called &amp;quot;cells&amp;quot;) are created by a hydrophobic substance like silicone oil. The oil is lightly mixed into the wet paint before pouring. After being poured, the oil droplets spread out and displace any paint above the base layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many crafters use a silicone-based hair product in a spritz bottle and they add 2 - 3 spritzes into the cup of paint before pouring it. It can take several minutes for the first cells to develop and they continue to grow and develop until the paint is dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to create the same effect on glass, you could cover the glass with a base layer of clear acryllic gel before pouring paint over it. However, I strongly suggest watching several tutorials for acryllic pouring before attempting it. The consistency of the paint is crucial for the development of the cells. Too viscous paint won't spread or develop cells, but too liquid paint will spread too much and mix with the base layer. Many crafters use additional ingredients like dishwashing soap to thin their paints and give them the right properties for pouring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to spritz a few drops of the silicone oil directly onto the very clean and dry glass and then pouring a very liquid paint over that. But you'd have to test if this even works the way you intend to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, make sure to perfectly level your glass / canvas before pouring and to have a tray or other contraption underneath to catch any overflowing paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A completely different idea that came to my mind is used in miniature painting to create a rusted effect. You'd paint the miniature (like a tank or shipwreck) a rust color and let it dry. Then you spray ordinary hair spray directly into a plastic cup (to collect the liquid) and paint that liquid onto any areas you want to be rusted. After that dried completely, you quickly cover the whole thing in the &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; (not rusted) color the object is supposed to have. When everything is completely dried, you dip the miniature in water and gently rub the surface. The water dissolves the hair spray and the outer layer of paint that only adhere to the hair spray, revealing the rust color underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique only works with acryllic paints because they become water resistant after drying. It doesn't create the same clear-cut edges between base paint and outer layer as in your example image, but a jagged, almost torn looking edge (at least at the scale of a miniature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-05-30T10:39:06.773" LastActivityDate="2022-05-30T10:39:06.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-30T15:24:00.147" Score="6" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited a rather old Iwata Revolution a while ago, which should be a big step up from my much more basic one. However, after some initial success and then a break, I'm struggling to get it to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptom: Pushing the trigger down, in any position, causes air to rush out of the nozzle as usual. Pulling the trigger back leads to a backflow of air into the cup, causing the paint to bubble, and no paint comes out of the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've tried: Complete disassembly and cleaning with lukewarm tap water. Attempted to spray both water and acrylic medium, but both exhibit the problem described above. Visual inspection found all parts appear clean, uncorroded and undamaged. Pulling the needle back by hand (instead of using the trigger) produces the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: The needle and nozzle are both quite new (I had to replace them). I had it working quite nicely early in the year but it's been unused for 2-3 months. It was thoroughly cleaned and disassembled before this break. I mostly used it for acrylics; I'm not sure how the previous owner used it but I believe he would have taken reasonable care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas about what else I could look into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: On @fixer1234's advice I took it apart and gave it a 4-hour soak in hot water and dish soap, replacing the water with freshly-boiled water when it went cold. I then soaked all the parts except the main body in denatured alcohol for another couple of hours. No change unfortunately. I could repeat the latter process but the parts are already gleaming and it's hard to see what I'd be trying to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11839" LastEditorUserId="11839" LastEditDate="2022-06-02T13:53:32.133" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T13:36:18.080" Title="No paint coming through airbrush" Tags="|airbrush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11113" CreationDate="2022-05-31T03:37:29.433" Score="0" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the guidance on lampwork insists that propane should be stored outside, but I don't quite get the logic of this. If the tank is outside, then you need a hard pipe, with all that that entails. Also, if there is a leak, it is a 90% chance the leak is in the soft hoses and fittings, which are all INSIDE anyway. So, having the tank outside doesn't really help you. Also, if the tank is outside, then you have to go outside to shut the tank off, but if the tank is inside, then you can much more easily shut the tank off when you are done working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common accident scenario I see is somebody with an outdoor tank that they leave open all the time (which I bet is what most artists do), then the leak develops in their indoor hoses, so the fact that they have the tank outside is irrelevant--except that it makes it much more likely they will not take the trouble to turn the tank off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the bottom line here is tanks don't leak, hoses and fittings leak, and the hoses and fittings are INSIDE THE HOUSE. So, how is putting the tank outside helping? All it does is INCREASE the number of hoses and fittings you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T05:27:15.020" Title="Safety of propane storage for lampwork" Tags="|glass|safety|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11112" CreationDate="2022-05-31T05:27:15.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gas leaks are the lesser evil in this scenario. You can (and should) install gas detectors in any rooms with propane piping to warn you of any leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger problem is that houses (or things inside houses) can catch fire, especially in a room you actively work with fire. If any burning material comes close to or even touches a propane tank, it can erupt in an absolute massive explosion that can destroy not only your house, but also the neighboring houses. Firefighters must be able to see and recognize the danger immediately, because it changes the strategy of a simple house fire from &amp;quot;going in to extinguish the fire&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;stay the hell away, evacuate the neighborhood and cool the tank&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course a house fire involving propane piping can lead to explosions, too. But the scale is different. If the tank is shut off, there is only a small volume of gas in the pipes that results in a smaller explosion (or just an acceleration of the fire). If the tank was left open and a pipe fails during a fire, it mostly fuels the fire (just like your burner does), but the tank won't explode because the gas flowing through the pipes pushes the fire away from the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most areas it's actually illegal to store propane tanks exceeding a certain size inside the house (or any structure directly attached to the house, like a garage) because that directly endangers the lives of firefighters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T05:27:15.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10980" CreationDate="2022-05-31T08:33:49.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;only buy patterns that give you an outline of each of the pieces that will be sewn together, with measurements&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;compare these with a knit garment that fits you well, and adjust as needed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use your gauge (determined from a good-sized swatch) to knit to the dimensions (See Zimmerman's &lt;em&gt;Knitting Without Tears&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;alternatively, use the commercial patter for inspiration, but draw your own outlines, using a garment which fits you well as the basis -- the &amp;quot;garment that fits you well&amp;quot; could be knitted from yarn, or it could be made from a stretchy knit fabric&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you could improve the fit of the Croft and Barrow sweater (with cables and ribs) as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;undo the top part of the seam that sets the sleeve in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;reduce the width of the sleeve in the cap (in the area where we see the bulge in the front)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;in other words, make the sleeve cap narrower&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;also, make the sleeve cap taller&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;then re-do the part of the seam you took apart -- if the edges don't match perfectly, you may introduce a bit of gathering in the sleeve as necessary -- if there is not much gathering, it won't be visible when you're wearing the sweater&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you would need large adjustments to solve the basic problem -- the changes needed are fairly subtle.  Also, I don't think you will need to do anything with the shoulder shaping to make this sweater fit you better.  Knitted three-dimensional creations are so much more forgiving than sewn garments made from woven material.  The slight wave in the shoulder seam doesn't really matter, and I would not bother redoing the shoulder shaping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T08:33:49.860" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2331" CreationDate="2022-05-31T09:01:31.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start by using a damp sponge to de-hair the sofa or chair I'm going to sit on while working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I would wind my yarn into center-pull balls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would put the ball I'm currently working with in a protective sock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T09:01:31.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11028" CreationDate="2022-05-31T09:53:22.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up winding a length of yarn around a sturdy cardboard card. I cut an approx. 10 x 5 cm / 3.5 x 2.5 inch piece of cardboard and then cut the long side down to create a T shape at each narrow end (so the yarn doesn't slip off). Then I wound the yarn around this card loosely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem I encountered was that the yarn twisted a lot during winding. I had to stop many times and let the card hang down to untwist on its own. Apart from that, I noticed no negative effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume there will be kinks at the end, where the yarn had to bend over the edge of the cardboard. If that bothers you, use the cardboard tube inside a roll of toilet paper, aluminium foil or cling wrap instead of a flat card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T09:53:22.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-31T18:21:42.183" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve an old trunk which is covered on the outside with paper or maybe thin printed canvas. Parts of paper are flaking off. I am seeking preservation rather that replacing the paper. I want to keep the old paper, but what can I used to stick paper back on wood trunk?  Plus seal it?  I am in a small Alaska town with few resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reluctant to put on a heavy varnish, as it would then be much harder if I ever decide to strip the old paper for some other future refinishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Determining if this in any actual OLD Piece is something I know nothing about. This was found, so no provenance. The plate attaching lock hasp to top is stamped Pat. Nov. 30 (nail)69. In some places there appears to be canvas or cloth attached under the flaking paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13040" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-06-04T08:38:24.863" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T09:04:25.087" Title="Old Trunk Preservation vs Restoration" Tags="|paper|preservation|restoration|sealer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-05-31T18:43:20.483" Score="5" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;During clearing out the home of my deceased parents, I found some plates which are tools for either knitting, stitching or sewing. First I thought they were part of the knitting machine Brother KH-588, but then I found others in a completely different place, so I assume that they are not related to this machine. These are thin metal plates of about 10 cm in size each, with some sort of clamps on them. Does someone have a clue what these things are, and what they are used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuHbo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuHbo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13041" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T05:34:13.977" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T16:41:46.617" Title="What's that tool for knitting, stitching or sewing?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11118" CreationDate="2022-06-01T13:29:29.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the best way to preserve a paper coating is with an archival PH neutral glue. Using a clean, quality brush you could gently work the glue behind the flaking bits of paper. Of course, not knowing the contents behind the paper, this glue could still pull acidity from the trunk and into the paper, degrading it further. Similarly, the water content of the glue could damage the paper depending on what exactly the paper is, and how it was originally applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, as was mentioned in comments - the patina/wear of this piece could be significant to its value as a historical item. If you have any reason to believe that it has historical or antique significance, I'd recommend either letting it age as it has thus far - or engaging a professional antique restoration professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12979" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T13:29:29.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-01T20:32:43.777" Score="4" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a decorative vase or sculpture shaped like what I can best describe as a silver twisted cuboid, please see this 3D model for what I'm talking about: &lt;a href=&quot;https://skfb.ly/ouSsD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://skfb.ly/ouSsD&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwjEZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwjEZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot of 3D model&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The horizontal cross section is a perfect square of the same size from top to bottom but rotated about the vertical axis by 90° at the bottom compared to the top with the angle interpolated smoothly in between. The height of the sculpture would be around 30-50 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I'm looking for a way to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recreate the shape with smooth sides (the edges don't need to be as sharp as in the model)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make the surface silver and reflective&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ideally without breaking the bank. Any suggestions on what materials I could use and how to achieve the shape? I don't have a good idea for point 1, for 2 I was thinking about something like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01LX67ATU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;silver adhesive vinyl wrap&lt;/a&gt;, but I doubt I could get nice wrinkle-free results with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13045" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-06-01T21:18:33.213" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T17:25:42.333" Title="How could I make a twisted cuboid sculpture like this?" Tags="|material-selection|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11121" CreationDate="2022-06-01T22:28:50.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This particular shape &amp;quot;screams&amp;quot; 3D printed. There are a number of programs which would allow one to create the model to be printed. I'm particularly fond of OpenSCAD, a descriptive language type of 3D modeling software, but many others have this capability. One would be able to configure for high resolution to reduce layer lines, as well as to print with ABS for acetone vapor smoothing. The model's height means that it might have to be printed in vertical segments, but ABS also solvent-welds with great strength and sands nicely. With finer abrasives (Micromesh™), a mirror finish can be achieved. (direct experience)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the model is printed, it can be coated with an electrically conductive paint. The resulting model can then be processed with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroforming&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;electroforming&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electroforming is a metal forming process in which parts are&#xA;fabricated through electrodeposition on a model, known in the industry&#xA;as a mandrel. Conductive (metallic) mandrels are treated to create a&#xA;mechanical parting layer, or are chemically passivated to limit&#xA;electroform adhesion to the mandrel and thereby allow its subsequent&#xA;separation. Non-conductive (glass, silicon, plastic) mandrels require&#xA;the deposition of a conductive layer prior to electrodeposition. Such&#xA;layers can be deposited chemically, or using vacuum deposition&#xA;techniques (e.g., gold sputtering). The outer surface of the mandrel&#xA;forms the inner surface of the form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process can be accomplished at the hobby level, although for something of the size described, it may be necessary to use a commercial resource. Nickel is not particularly expensive compared to silver metal and can be quite shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the option of wrapping, silver Monokote™ exists in the radio control airplane world. This allows heat shrinking to remove wrinkles and to cause the adhesive layer to activate, but there would be a joining line on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final option, once the model is created and the surface is smooth to a satisfactory level, a carefully applied paint job may provide the desired results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-06-01T22:28:50.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11126" CreationDate="2022-06-02T21:25:55.860" Score="3" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make a human-shaped sculpture, that will have string or rope coming out of it and that string will be tied to something, which will make that string tight and keep the sculpture in one piece. But when I cut the string, the sculpture will collapse. Ideally, the sculpture would be lifesized, could be smaller, but at least 1 meter high. It is not necessary to be able to reassemble the sculpture after it collapses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other thoughts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the toys from which I got the idea: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bnoQUf6znE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bnoQUf6znE&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;but the difference would be that I want to cut the string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am thinking about which material, in my amateur home workshop, could I use. First I thought about wood, but then I thought that would be too heavy and expensive and hard to work with to make a human shape. Then I thought about plaster, but I am worried it might shatter when the sculpture collapses and it would leave a mess. I am now thinking of paper mache around some wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I am thinking if this idea makes sense at all :) so if you have some tips, I am grateful to hear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bonus would be if the torso would be hollow so that I could put another sculpture inside the big one so that it would fall out when the big sculpture falls apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13047" LastEditorUserId="13047" LastEditDate="2022-06-06T15:05:01.480" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T15:05:01.480" Title="Collapsible sculpture" Tags="|material-selection|sculpture|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11123" CreationDate="2022-06-03T09:46:37.583" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are looking for a collapsible &lt;em&gt;Transformer&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get inspiration from a &lt;strong&gt;Cubebot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cubebot® is a wooden toy robot inspired by Japanese Shinto Kumi-ki puzzles. Made from wood and elastic, Cubebot can be positioned to hold dozens of poses. When it's time to rest, Cubebot folds back into a perfect cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.areaware.com/collections/cubebot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this is easily achievable in cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhSZL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhSZL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2022-06-03T19:30:59.487" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T19:30:59.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11123" CreationDate="2022-06-03T14:19:14.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd look at paper lanterns and lampshades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A classic paper lantern (as shown below) is simply a set of wire or bamboo rings glued to lightweight paper and arranged to create a sphere (oblong, rectangle) form when opened up. They don't self-support at all; I chose the specific photo below to show the inner wire frame holding the structure open. When that structure is removed, the lantern collapses back into a flat disk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MR8bd.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MR8bd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar construction is this floor lamp with a paper shade from Ikea (discontinued); The lampshade is a spiral of wire covered in lightweight paper that is held open by gravity; the lamp frame extends to the top where the shade is fixed in place and allowed to fall open to cover the frame and bulb. If the shade is disconnected from the frame, it will collapse down to a flat disk, similar to the paper lantern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmydG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmydG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T14:19:14.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11123" CreationDate="2022-06-03T16:36:09.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use the same mechanism as in the linked video, the key to that is small diameter rigid tubes with just enough clearance for the string/rope.  When the string is tight, it pulls the tubes together and aligns them to make a rigid structure.  When the string is loose, the weight and imbalance of the sections causes it to collapse to the extent allowed by the slack string (if the string is cut, it will completely collapse as long as the tubes don't naturally stack into a balanced, stable structure, and the string can freely slide inside the tubes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make the frame/mechanism out of small diameter rigid PVC pipe or tubing. Build up the exterior with any suitable material, like paper mache.  Just keep the &amp;quot;joints&amp;quot; free to move.  For example, make the ends of the sculpted sections curved so the sections don't rest on each other in a stable way; only the tubing skeleton should have square ends so the pieces are stable when the string is tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea with the torso hiding something else that falls out will be hard to do unless you have two independent control strings, and you release the torso first.  The structure strings will need to be tight, and will be under a lot of tension.  The sculpture will start to collapse as soon as that tension is released, so whatever is holding the torso closed would need to be released first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do something like securing the sculpture strings with a release knot; separate strings in each leg could be tied to a common line that secures the sculpture upright.  Pulling another string would release the torso contents, then pull the release knot.  In practice, though, it will take a lot of force to release a knot under the kind of stress keeping the sculpture erect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T16:36:09.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11121" CreationDate="2022-06-03T17:10:05.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a 3D printer, you could make this from stacked and glued square wafers of wood or even cardboard/chipboard.  At the ends, the squares would be aligned (or better, you can use solid blocks of wood).  In the twisted section, you rotate each square a tiny amount (the offset at the corners less than the thickness of the wafer).  Note that it will take &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; of wafers.  Once the sculpture is assembled, sand the faces smooth (each face will be a flat surface).  If you use cardboard, you can harden the faces by letting them absorb some thin resin or glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silver surface can be done with paint, or wrap each face with aluminum flashing tape.  Use oversized tape.  The aluminum will stretch a bit to conform when you press it into place and burnish it.  Do one side, trim the excess, then do the next side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-06-03T17:25:42.333" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T17:25:42.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11118" CreationDate="2022-06-04T09:04:25.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first option is to &lt;strong&gt;go to a local art ot craft store and specifically ask for &amp;quot;archival&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;acid free&amp;quot; paper glue&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that option fails, a &lt;strong&gt;starch paste can act as a mild paper glue&lt;/strong&gt; and its properties can be imnproved by mixing PVA glue (common white glue, preferably acid free) into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://psap.library.illinois.edu/collection-id-guide/adhesives&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Preservation Self-Assessment Program&lt;/a&gt; writes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starch adhesives (1st century A.D.–present)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Starch adhesives are activated by soaking and/or cooking powdered starch in hot water to form a paste. The most common starches used to make these adhesives are rice and wheat. Starch pastes are widely used in papermaking and paper conservation applications, as they are both water-soluble and reversible. These pastes are pH neutral and remain stable over time under appropriate conditions. This type of paste is susceptible however to biological attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get the best glue-y paste from either &lt;strong&gt;wheat or rice starch&lt;/strong&gt; (look for it in asian supermarkets). Other types like corn, potato or tapioka starch are less suitable. If that is the only starch you have available, test it on some scrap paper before attempting to repair your chest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.humblebeeandme.com/double-your-white-glue-with-homemade-paste/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instruction to double archival white glue with a homemade starch paste&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put 4 tbsp starch in a small sauce pan and mix it with 8 tbsp of water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cook it over medium heat and never stop whisking the whole time until it cooks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's ready when it turns from a chalky white to translucent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove from the heat and keep whisking until the mixture is cool. If you don't whisk it while cooling, it becomes jello-y like a pudding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer the cooled paste into a small jar and mix it with the same amount of white PVA glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of this mixture is that it dries slower than pure glue, which gives you ample time to work. You can also thin it with a few drops of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T09:04:25.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11111" CreationDate="2022-06-06T13:36:18.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the manual bubbles in the color cup can be from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose nozzle cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improper nozzle to body connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracked or damaged nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finger tighten the nozzle cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reseat the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace the nozzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its not dried acrylic paint it is probably one of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T13:36:18.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11099" CreationDate="2022-06-06T13:47:15.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The acrylic will have a hard time sticking to the glossy surface no matter what it is made of. That is why sanding to roughen the surface and then priming are a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to that lower adhesion the properties of oil based paints mentioned in the comments, slower drying being the main one, your top coat will be fairly fragile compared to the base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper and most permanent approach would be to stick with the stinky paint. Anything else in this case will be hit or miss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T13:47:15.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2022-06-06T13:58:25.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are making dark gothic paintings and want to use a lot of black in your compositions consider making black the ground (base color) and then, after it has dried, work with colors and lighter greys over that base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would be painting the light into a pitch black world, very goth, while keeping your other colors clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T13:58:25.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11087" CreationDate="2022-06-06T14:10:26.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a mechanical pen of unknown origin that is broken. You report there is no way to open the pen to examine or adjust it. You say it just stopped working out of the blue. How to fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the info you provided, the only fix is a new pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Yes it &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; rugged, maybe marketed as a &lt;strong&gt;tactical pen&lt;/strong&gt; but no brand. Could be you got played by someone cashing in on the tactical pen niche.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T14:10:26.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-07T12:15:47.520" Score="7" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I crochet something, I always end up with gaps in between my stitches, leading to a sort of open-weave effect. That's fine for baggy cardigans and the like, but for tops, dresses, skirts, etc, I'd rather it not be so see-through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen patterns for sale with example pictures that don't have those gaps, but I'm broke, so I haven't actually bought them to see if the pattern says anything about how I might achieve that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a certain stitch pattern/type that works? Smaller hook? ... lining? And if it is a matter of lining it, how would you sew a lining into crochet? Would the gaps in the stitches cause a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13053" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-06-07T12:37:47.067" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T14:34:19.900" Title="How to avoid gaps between stitches in crocheted clothes" Tags="|crocheting|clothing|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11133" CreationDate="2022-06-07T15:51:01.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I crochet swimwear and I have observed that if I crochet tighter, it reduces the space significantly between stitches. The type of stitch is probably the biggest factor contributing to holes though. Stitches like the Alpine Stitch or the Rice Stitch are a bit chunkier and shouldn't have too many holes, especially if you crochet tightly. The Shell Stitch is also good. If those stitches still give you too many holes, you can always test different types of yarns/hook sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A medium weight Polyester/Viscose/Nylon blend yarn with a size 3.75 hook using rice stitches produced a garment that had no holes at all for me. Hope this helps in some way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12899" LastActivityDate="2022-06-07T15:51:01.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11137" CreationDate="2022-06-07T17:58:48.123" Score="5" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working on this piece for several days now. With this specific piece, I am looking for a mix of both renaissance halo and a expressionist feel. It has been problematic because I think the light direction is coming from different places. But most importantly I want the light to be coming from behind. Where the halo is behind the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First beginning steps of creating the piece with adding slight coloration to the hair and hands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFSwV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFSwV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to keep the halo effect around the head. So in some ways I would want the light to be shining from behind. But in this way I guess it would be taking away from the light that is currently shining forward. Dampening the color from the front would help with the lighting issue. But I am still kind of stumped how I would show light coming from behind. I am thinking maybe doing a faint outline around the head and hands with a lighter color to make it seem like it is illuminating. I tried this one numerous attempts. It seemed like it was doing well, but then I back stepped and went back over it because I second guessed myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how to illuminate from behind to get the effect of something shining in a dark atmosphere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This piece is being done in acrylic paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second rework:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pN01m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pN01m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T17:42:17.867" Title="Direction of light in a dark painting?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10534" CreationDate="2022-06-07T23:55:53.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several knit silk long sleeve shirts. They have lasted very well , if there is a failure it is at a seam but I do not know the seam material. I wear them in the pool on cool days , the silk  is much warmer than similar thickness  cotton. I also have a silk sport coat that looks fine after years of service. I would not hesitate to buy silk clothing .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2022-06-07T23:55:53.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11135" CreationDate="2022-06-08T11:37:18.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The light currently seems to be coming from a diffuse source a little bit above the observer's position (or slightly above the painting's 'window').&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you want the light to come from the halo, remember that being a disc the nimbus will cast a very diffuse light as well.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In the following image manipulation I added highlights (using the Dodge Tool in Photoshop) to areas directly affected by the halo's light (the hair, especially the part unobscured by the person's head, and the direct reflection of light on the person's arms):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2BJT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2BJT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These highlights can be more subtle or more harsh depending on how bright you want the halo to be. Also take into consideration that it might shine onto the floor and cast the person's (diffuse) shadow, and into the background.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Around the head single hairs will be lit up very well, although this effect will naturally be less pronounced against the halo itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3eO0.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3eO0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image edited from &lt;a href=&quot;https://flipflopfotography.wordpress.com/2012/04/15/studio-lighting-backlighting/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I interpreted the halo as the neckline of a shirt. Since there are no outlines of a body in the background, it's hard to tell the shape of the body, so I would suggest changing that first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fBMc6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fBMc6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I've made the background bright only to show a hint of where the shoulders could be visible. This can of course also be done against a dark background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to properly paint a halo with this particular orientation of the head. In early renaissance paintings the halo is indeed usually centred behind the head and represented parallel to the viewing plane, but especially later on it was often painted in perspective relative to the orientation of the person's head. It can also be an outline instead of a disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DNFLI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DNFLI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7isu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7isu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that slightly scaling down the head will help give a more naturalistic idea of the person (in some of the images above I accidentally used the smaller head):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpbK9.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpbK9.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course (as seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/10625/how-do-i-draw-a-very-short-human-without-making-them-look-like-a-child/10630#10630&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; as well) reducing the size of the head will give the person a slightly more adult look as well, which might not be what you want.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It might also be more evident that the person's hands could now be somewhat oversized, but I feel that actually adds to the expressionistic character of the painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-06-08T11:37:18.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11135" CreationDate="2022-06-08T12:41:37.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick tip for lighting from behind a subject: reverse the placement of lights and shadows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When painting a human you usually have highlighted areas in the front of the body and on top of the shoulders. Shadows are usually at the edges of limbs. If I cut a vertical strip from your painting that includes both arms I get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A small shadow at the very top of the upper arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light in the center of the upper arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadow at the bottom edge of the upper arm and the upper edge of the lower arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, light in the center of the lower arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deep shadow at the bottom of the lower arm, because the least bit of light reaches there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is illuminated from the front. There doesn't seem to be any light coming from behind the figure, because any areas that face back are in shadows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To have the light coming from behind, you need to change the order of shadows and highlights as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The upper edge of the upper arm must have the brightest highlights. This is where most of the light from behind is visible. There is no dark outline at this edge at all, because all the light comes from behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The center of the arm can probably stay as it is now (medium light)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything below the ulna needs to be in shadow, because light from behind cannot reach there. The shadow between both arms gets bigger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lower arm should only have a narrow highlight (medium light) at about 1/3rd of the height. It still gets some light from behind, but it's also in the shadow of the upper arm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lower edge of the lower arm is in deep shadow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing with the trousers. If there is a light source &lt;em&gt;behind&lt;/em&gt; that person, the outer edges of the trousers should be much brighter. If the halo &lt;em&gt;is the light source&lt;/em&gt; then the top of the drawn up legs and the feet need to be lighter than they are now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-06-08T12:41:37.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-08T18:32:52.673" Score="5" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of online videos show making an air dry clay, often used with a silicone embellishment mold.  The ingredients are starch, a little oil, and a clear, one-part liquid adhesive.  Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OL2S2UfKTHU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example video&lt;/a&gt; that displays the adhesive used at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3AjI9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3AjI9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by the language, these videos appear to be by Russian crafters.  The adhesive often appears in a dispenser bottle with mostly (I assume) Russian writing, many with a brand name of &lt;strong&gt;Titan&lt;/strong&gt;.  The adhesive is typically described as just &amp;quot;polymer adhesive&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;polymer construction adhesive&amp;quot;, available in hardware stores there.  It does not appear to be a form of clear PVA glue, which is popularly used in a similar way, and the characteristics of the clay sound different from cold porcelain (looks like less shrinkage, no cracking, harder/tougher result).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been unable to identify the adhesive (maybe not sold outside Russia?); the type of formulation, or what the equivalent would be in a product sold in the US.  The only &amp;quot;polymer construction adhesives&amp;quot; I've found are sold in caulking tubes or tubs, which implies a different consistency at a minimum.  Is anyone familiar with this adhesive, and what would be a comparable type of adhesive sold in the US?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional info&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find this link that refers to the Titan products (and confirms that they are Russian): &lt;a href=&quot;https://en-n.decorexpro.com/montazhnyj-klej/titan/#h2_266621&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glue Titan&lt;/a&gt;.  The link includes a list of adhesives with supposedly similar performance (a wide variety of types, so not useful).  It also includes a recipe to make a DIY version.  However, that is not a polymer formulation, so I suspect it's like the DIY recipes for Mod Podge that aren't the same as the actual product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another link, &lt;a href=&quot;https://numavig.com/Titan-Wild-glue.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titan Wild glue for polystyrene XPS foam Depron&lt;/a&gt;, refers to Titan Wild, and identifies the ingredients as  copolymers of vinyl acetate.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mcpolymers.com/library/vinyl-acetate-based-polymers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An Introduction to Vinyl Acetate-Based Polymers&lt;/a&gt; describes many possible varieties of vinyl acetate-based polymers, so this information is of limited use identifying an equivalent US product.  It does suggest that the DIY formula in the other link is not the ingredients of the real product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-06-08T21:00:09.333" LastActivityDate="2022-06-08T21:00:09.333" Title="What kind of adhesive is this?" Tags="|adhesives|material-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-09T01:59:41.907" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyfUl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyfUl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;strong text&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out why one side of the paper is different then the other.&#xA;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13064" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T01:59:41.907" Title="Sulfite drawing paper is different shades on each side" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2022-06-11T19:57:59.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-12T05:54:10.127" Score="5" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a sizeable inflatable structure about 15'x 15' with a height of around 15'. I want to extend my classroom's workspace during certain times on various days. I need some help with deciding on the material. It needs to be inexpensive but also durable. It would need to handle being outside for a few hours each day for about a month. I also need it not to have a bottom or floor. The shape of the structure could be similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HmLJy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HmLJy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it could be tied or snapped to anchors in the cement. I have read that people have used a 4-mill painter's tarp or Heavy Duty Poly Tarps. But maybe 6 mil Polyethylene Film, Plastic Sheeting, or Nylon Taslon TPU Coated Fabric would work. Do you guys have any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more info: It will be outside in a patio area. My classroom has a garage door on one side that opens into a patio area flanked by pillars. The patio area in front of the garage doors is open to the sky. But on either side, the patio is covered by the second story of the building I am in. Imagine the space in front of my garage door as a large well. It is excellent for letting sunlight in, but we also get the rain and snow, which can be pretty hot in the summer. Sometimes this space is OK for my classes to utilize, but a lot of the time, it is a problematic space for us to work in. I thought a blow-up structure that could have some environmental controls would be fun and a bit magical. So this inflatable idea would hopefully solve the problem of my need to extend my classroom's workspace during certain times on various days without being completely at the mercy of the Texas weather. I have had inflatables be a project in my classes before, and we have made one about 20 feet square. Here are a few examples: &lt;a href=&quot;https://photos.app.goo.gl/YjSMZbXmfZwfJsre9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inflatables in Sculpture Class&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also here is a picture of the space where I am wanting to have an inflatable room - there is an inflatable sculpture that the students made that looks like a large white pillar.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cG4sU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cG4sU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inflatble Pillar created in my class&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3URlO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3URlO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inflatable pillar created in my class&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13070" LastEditorUserId="13070" LastEditDate="2022-06-14T15:05:41.350" LastActivityDate="2022-06-14T20:49:40.873" Title="Materials for inflatable structure" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-13T14:07:57.363" Score="4" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often work with the specular properties of my paintings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since charcoal gives me a more matte black than almost any (combination of something with) black oil paint could, I at times want to use it in paintings. But I don't like the charcoal mixing in with my colours, as it results in muddier hues.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I realize I can wait with applying charcoal until the paint is dry (to the touch), but if I want to cover both up simultaneously with a glaze, I need to be able to fix the charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there an archival method I can use to seal in the charcoal without risking impairing the longevity of my paints?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is about oil paints, but a method for acrylics would be welcome as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-03-13T11:20:45.830" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T13:06:25.810" Title="Method to fix charcoal to an oil painting" Tags="|material-selection|preservation|acrylic-paint|oil-paint|charcoal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11135" CreationDate="2022-06-13T17:42:17.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term used for high contrast between light and dark in artwork is called chiaroscuro. The ability to make an object appear three dimensional using light and dark contrasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples I found of this to help are famous paintings to give the same/similar effects are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Matchmaker by Gerrit van Honthorst, 1625&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magdalene with the Smoking Flame, by Georges de La Tour, c. 1640&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Potato Eaters by Vincent Van Gogh, 1885&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at these images, such as &amp;quot;The Matchmaker&amp;quot; there is over 50% darkness in this painting. But if you look at the edges of the individual in the center foreground you can see that the light is slightly outlining the character. Around her face, hands and even into her dress. In all three cases each one has bending of light and gradient of colors smoothed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;The Smoking Flame&amp;quot; the light source is not coming from behind the character but you are able to see how the light effects the woman sitting beside the candle and how the thin lines of light come from her legs, and the light shining on her arms and how the skull is effected by the light coming from behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to throw in &amp;quot;The Potato Eater&amp;quot; because the front center character is experiencing a light source that is coming from behind. He added a light haze around the character. Notably around the characters head. To show that the character is effected by the light source. You can also notice details in the center character of her clothing. It is still quite dark but visible with the eye. Compared to &amp;quot;The Matchmaker&amp;quot; which is quite dark in color and not able to see a lot of detail. The viewer is able to observer that there are medium grays in the dress, and even yellow reflected of the characters face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR; My final note is that when it comes to dark paintings and light. The object or character that is being hit by the light, the closer the object is to the light source will appear the brightest. The further away the object is away from the light source the darker it becomes because it is further away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiaroscuro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiaroscuro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I started looking on duckduckgo: &amp;quot;Famous dark paintings with light&amp;quot; which first popped up &amp;quot;The Matchmaker&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T17:42:17.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11141" CreationDate="2022-06-13T19:30:28.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a bit of additional kit, I think this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sunjoygz.com/inflatables-tents/air-constant-tent/644.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;inflatable tent&lt;/a&gt; listed as being for advertising purposes could complete your objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of inflatable designs with quite a wide range of dimensions, some with floors, which could be excised if other means of restricting the tubes are created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uA0wF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uA0wF.png&quot; alt=&quot;inflatable tent image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions of this particular unit show as 16.4 feet in diameter, which would imply about half that height, which also would require some modification/additional kit to get the rather substantial height in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a 20 person tent that is also an inflatable, but it has a floor that might not be easily removed and is certainly not an inexpensive purchase. Pricing is subjective, however and if not stated in the post, is open to interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to reach your 15 foot parameter by using a set of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ohmyprintsolutions.com/shop/inflatable-tube-pillars/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;inflatable arches&lt;/a&gt; found at the bottom of the linked page, and creating your own covering using generic plastic sheeting or tarpaulins. No pricing is apparent, previous reference regarding inexpensive applies. Image from linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHZOm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHZOm.png&quot; alt=&quot;inflatable arch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T19:30:28.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-14T00:05:01.103" Score="5" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is my laser cutter trying to engrave super thin lines that it should be cutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll post the solution I found, but other answers are also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13077" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-15T01:50:25.557" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T01:50:25.557" Title="Laser cutter engraving when it should be cutting" Tags="|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11146" CreationDate="2022-06-14T00:05:01.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your laser cutter is treating vectors as raster information, there's a good chance that it's receiving incorrect instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such example of this might be in Adobe Illustrator where you can combine raster and vector into layers and it will often output only raster information from that point forwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this matches your case, try turning off all raster layers so nothing is being output except vectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13077" LastActivityDate="2022-06-14T00:05:01.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11141" CreationDate="2022-06-14T20:49:40.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just want to define some space, there are all kinds of options.  You could inflate a large, light-weight weather baloon, or make the equivalent.  You just need enough air pressure and volume on the inside to offset the weight of the material and any losses, and the material and seams need to be strong enough to not stretch or separate.  From there, you start adding complications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material and seam strength.&lt;/strong&gt;  Chances are, you won't have a blower that produces the precise amount of air needed to just perfectly inflate the room and keep it that way.  Anything over that amount of air will stress the material and seams.  Light-weight plastic film will be hard to seal without melting holes in it, and it will also stretch under pressure, eventually bursting.  If you use plastic film, it generally needs to be thick and strong.  Polyethylene sheeting will be hard to reliably join with adhesives; those seams are generally heat sealed.  Vinyl sheeting can be heat sealed or joined with adhesives, but will have limited life in direct sunlight unless the material and any adhesives are designed for UV exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use Tyvek with adhesives or tape as long as you don't exceed the holding power of the adhesive (and the adhesive bond won't last forever).  Tyvek also is not air-tight, so it only works with continuous inflation.  Inflatable Tyvek structures are often used as the form for making sprayed foam or concrete domes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fabric seams can be sewn, and there are various methods for making strong, long-lasting seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air losses.&lt;/strong&gt;  You can use almost any material if it has the right characteristics, but if the material or design has significant air leakage, the amount of air you need to pump in can get ridiculous.  You could make the structure from an old parachute, especially if you treat it to seal the fabric better.  You just need to pump in enough air to stay ahead of the leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No bottom/floor?  Add a sealing skirt around the bottom edge, like used on a hover craft (not air-tight, but reduces the losses).  Need for people to enter and exit?  Add an air lock, like shown in your picture, or form the support structure from sealed inflatable tubes and then enclose it to add the room shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weather/environment.&lt;/strong&gt;  The outside environment adds many problems and considerations.  &lt;strong&gt;Wind&lt;/strong&gt; can add huge stresses.  The structure shape can help (e.g., a dome will reduce the wind effect).  Wind will deform the shape unless it is under substantial pressure (which means a lot of internal pressure, and strong material and seams).  It will put tremendous strain on whatever is anchoring it in place.  &lt;strong&gt;Sunlight&lt;/strong&gt; will deteriorate many materials.  It will soften plastic film.  It will create a greenhouse inside, which can get very hot.  You can counter this by using reflective film, like space blankets, to make or cover the roof.  &lt;strong&gt;Precipitation&lt;/strong&gt; adds a surprising amount of weight to the structure, which you would need to offset with increased air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;People inside.&lt;/strong&gt;  Using the structure as a room that people will occupy adds another whole dimension of considerations.  It's possible to use what's basically a sealed shell that's inflated by internal pressure.  But people add health and safety issues.  You need proper replacement of the internal air for breathing, issues of volatile compounds in some plastics and adhesives that people will be breathing for an extended period, flamability risks, temperature and humidity need to be maintained at healthy levels, prolonged exposure to the blower noise can harm people's hearing, etc.  There may be local codes or ordinances covering use of such rooms, and the inherent risks can create liability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of structure becomes more practical for people if it doesn't need to be a sealed shell.  You can use a supporting structure of inflated, sealed tubes.  The structure can be a skeleton to which you add an appropriate shell to create the walls and ceiling (generally requires high air pressure for the supports, or very large supports that eat into the available space).  Another way to do this is to make the walls and ceiling from such tubes.  This is normally done with a double wall that is connected at intervals so the layers stay parallel and a uniform thickness.  The wall is inflated, which gives it some rigidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conditioned space.&lt;/strong&gt;  Normal buildings are pretty well sealed and insulated.  They are heated and cooled by recirculating the internal air, which is continuously and incrementally conditioned.  Imagine trying to heat or cool a building with all the doors and windows open to the outside.  Inflatable buildings that aren't sealed and insulated have huge losses like that.  Even sealed structures that are a single wall of plastic film or coated fabric have very little insulation value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Structures with trapped, still air between double walls can provide insulation.  But if the support structure is sealed tubes that are kept inflated by constantly-flowing air, the support structure will function as a heat exchanger, moving the internal room temperature toward that of whatever the air source is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using portable air conditioning units as the inflation source for such a structure isn't likely to work; they probably won't put out enough air flow or air pressure to keep the room firmly inflated.  The &amp;quot;practical&amp;quot; solution is a double-walled structure, with walls made of strong, well-sealed material with almost no air leakage.  Inflating the walls provides the structure.  Once inflated, you only need to periodically top off the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a portable heater or air conditioner to condition the air.  In the winter, you may not need to add much heat if the room is insulated and occupied by people because people give off a lot of heat.  But be careful of the type and placement of any heater you put inside because you don't want it to heat up the wall or ceiling material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could theoretically make such a structure in this size from scratch, but it would be a huge amount of work and pains-taking testing.  One way to make the job more manageable would be to make it from pre-made modules.  The modules would be strong, air-tight, inflatable rectangles that you glue or tape together.  Examples would be air mattresses or inflatable &amp;quot;raft&amp;quot; pool floats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention using the structure a few hours per day.  One thing to be aware of is that setup can take some time.  Inflating a sealed sculpture can be done pretty fast.  But the kind of structure that will be suitable for human occupancy and conditioned air could take considerable time to set up and inflate.  It probably isn't something that would be practical to do each day for a few hours of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-06-14T20:49:40.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-15T19:01:51.277" Score="5" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a rattle can that's half full of paint, but from which all of the propellant has leaked out, be used for anything other than a paperweight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, can the paint be extracted and used in some kind of craft or upcycling project that specifically needs paint formulated for a spray can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2022-06-15T20:24:29.067" LastActivityDate="2022-06-28T17:40:27.947" Title="Can a half full rattle can with no propellant have any practical uses in art or craft?" Tags="|paint|upcycling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11150" CreationDate="2022-06-15T19:52:09.160" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repressurize&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can repressurize the can.  If you have a compressor, a valve stem from a tire makes a good adapter (insert the service end into a tire filling adapter, and use the rubber end that goes inside a tire to make a seal on the spray can).  You put it over the &amp;quot;stem&amp;quot; that the nozzle fits on, press down to make a seal on the can, and fill to around 70 PSI.  Here's a video showing the process: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPrVkVfL47Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HOW TO REPRESSURIZE SPRAY CANS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do it with a butane lighter refill canister (butane is often what is used as the propellent).  You just use the refill canister to pressurize the can through the stem the same way a butane lighter or hobby torch would be refilled.  Here's a video showing that process: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sYNQmSVyPk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repressurize spray cans with lighter refill&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick discussion on pressure.  You need enough pressure to push the paint out properly, but more isn't better.  Too much pressure and the spray quality will be affected.  Compressed air isn't what's used when the cans are filled at the factory.  The propellant is something that's a gas at room temperature but a liquid under pressure.  As you spray and use up the paint in the can, more propellant evaporates inside the can to maintain the pressure.  The pressure in the can is determined by the vapor pressure of the propellant, so it stays constant as long as there is propellant in the can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compressed air doesn't liquefy at a temperature or pressure useful for spray cans.  It remains a compressed gas, and the pressure goes down as it expands to fill the space in the can when you spray.  With compressed air, you need to put in a little more pressure than needed so that the pressure doesn't drop too low as soon as you spray a little.  But you don't want so much pressure that the paint doesn't spray correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, if you run out of original propellant, there isn't much paint left in the can.  So one filling with compressed air will let you use up the contents.  If you manage to empty the propellant on an almost full can (like by spraying with the can upside down), you might need to do several fills with compressed air to keep the pressure in a good range for spraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to overpressurize with a butane refill because butane vapor pressure isn't that high.  With an air compressor, around 70 psi is optimal (it's a little more than what's needed).  If you exceed around 90 psi, it may affect the quality of the spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a safety matter, you won't run into problems if you stay in that range.  Can strength needs to meet certain minimums regulated by the government.  In North America, the lowest grade spray can must pass pressure testing at 140 psi without deforming or buckling, and 210 psi is the minimum burst pressure.  South American standards are very close to that.  In Europe and many of the Asian countries, the minimums are higher.  So if you go nuts with an air compressor, you will get feedback, like the can starting to balloon well before it bursts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as hazards, it always makes sense to use eye protection, and it doesn't hurt to protect your clothing.  You're working with paint and pressure, so take common sense precautions because mishaps can always happen.  Butane isn't toxic, and there isn't enough of it in a refill canister to be unusually dangerous when used properly.  But it's flammable, so don't repressurize with butane around an ignition source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a comment, A.K. asked about toxicity and the need for a respirator.  Any toxicity would be in the paint, and most people using spray paint cans would wear a respirator only if they were doing a lot of spraying in an enclosed space.  Unless you plan to seriously over-pressurize the can to the point of bursting, there wouldn't be a need for a respirator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extract the remaining paint&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to repressurize, you can empty and save the contents into a suitable container.  Make sure there is no pressure in the can.  Then drill a small vent hole near the top with the can upright to vent any remaining pressure.  On the opposite side near the top, drill a drain hole.  Then pour the contents into the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@StuartF makes a great point in a comment.  The can may not have enough propellant to push out the contents, but it could still have some pressure.  Wear protective gear for you and your clothes when you make the vent hole.  The suggestion of puncturing the can by pushing it away from you into a fixed point is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repurposing the can&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the can empty, you could add something like sand if you really want a paperweight.  :-)  Or after the inside has dried out, use it as a cylindrical form for something crafty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-06-28T17:40:27.947" LastActivityDate="2022-06-28T17:40:27.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11153" CreationDate="2022-06-19T08:05:39.297" Score="7" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;For our wedding we are going for a very light 'alice in wonderland' theme, which includes a 'down the rabbit hole' table where we would like guests to drop their well wishes in.&#xA;The table will be covered in astro turf for a grass effect. But that actual rabbit hole will be a charity/donation bucket with a sloped lid and slot, which will be sunken into the table.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBI5O.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBI5O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;purchased bucket&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for my usual things like this i would cover the surface in silicone sealant, and press soil into it.&#xA;Which works wonders and looks amazing.&#xA;But I'm worried that if I use real soil, when people put the cards through the slot the soil will mark them as it rubs against it and we don't that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas on what we can use in place of soil that still looks realistic but would leave no marks on things rubbed against it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13101" LastActivityDate="2022-06-19T10:24:42.547" Title="How to make something look covered in soil, with out risk of staining/marking" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11152" CreationDate="2022-06-19T10:24:42.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In model making, granulated cork is used for fake soil. That shouldn't mark, or at least not without a fair bit of effort. It also glues well, for example with PVA wood glue. Some may be dyed, and that might shed a little colour but natural cork should be a good colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-06-19T10:24:42.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-20T13:03:16.557" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between these airbrush accessories in terms of how they would be used and the effect that they produce when spraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Numbered 1 to 7 from top left to bottom right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an answer from an artistic source (for example a trade review or an unboxing video with demonstrations), which goes beyond the product description on the retailers website.  I'm specifically looking for information that is NOT included in the source link, not a cut and paste of the manufacturer's original description as these can be extremely unreliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrUJ5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrUJ5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Airbrush accessories&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003229255949.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-06-24T19:03:52.803" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T19:03:52.803" Title="What purpose do these airbrush accessories serve and how does their use\effect differ?" Tags="|tool-usage|airbrush|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11154" CreationDate="2022-06-20T15:21:25.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First those are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; airbrush nozzles. They are &amp;quot;Airbrush Cover Assories&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They claim to be guides to assist in creating specific effects like a specific line weight or soft cover. Not sure how that would work since anything dragging against the support will damage whatever paint has gone down. Also they would collect overspray and create drops and smears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the official descriptions from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803042941197.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AliExpress website&lt;/a&gt; item with that image (edited only for layout, spelling errors are theirs):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NT-1: Long distance, large area, large angle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NT-2: Efficient disperse airflow at close-range operation, and makes the-edge of color lump more smooth, and reduce the paint accumulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NT-3: Close range, large area, large angle, and reduce the paint accumulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NT-4: Medium distance, large area, large angle,and&#xA;protect needle, make the airbrush plays a finest performance with fewer restrictions of spary scope.(it can work with o-ring to adjust the tightning locked position)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NT-6: help collecting airflow, reducing the spary scope of airbrush, hollow out structure design can ensures the smooth airflow, suitable for painting shadow and thin lines in small area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NT-7: press against the surface of item to spary it, suitable for&#xA;painting lines of uniform thickness: large hollow out design can&#xA;reduce the paint accumulation, and with unrestricted spray scope,&#xA;freely control the spray effect.(it can work with o-ring to adjust&#xA;the tightning locked position)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But frankly they do nothing to change the spray pattern. That comes from the nozzle, needle set, airflow, and how you handle the brush. These items are window dressing at best. If they were to actually block the airflow like they describe it would just make a mess.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit: a user suggested there may be a niche application for these tips. If so hopefully someone with experience in that area could fill in the blank.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2022-06-21T23:11:06.067" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T23:11:06.067" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11154" CreationDate="2022-06-22T15:37:31.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Harder &amp;amp; Steenbeck Infinity (and a couple of other) airbrushes. Most nozzle and needle sets I own for the Infinity came with either a nozzle cap like #3, #4 or #6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know #4 should be used as a spacer to be able to spray thin lines evenly, which doesn't work very well and you get better results freehand with a little bit of practice.&#xA;#3/6 should be used as a needle protection for when working very close to the subject.&#xA;To my knowledge, they do not alter the spray pattern. The other shown caps just look like variations from #3 or #6 and I can not imagine them altering the spray pattern either, although I cant be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most efficient way to control your spray pattern is to use different needles and nozzles (beside the obvious: distance to subject, airflow and needle control).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2022-06-23T07:58:50.503" LastActivityDate="2022-06-23T07:58:50.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-06-23T03:28:17.613" Score="1" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I teach art and would like to make some strong 14&amp;quot;x 12&amp;quot; trays that the kids could easily carry and that can be easily washed. These are high school age kids and primarily sophomores to seniors, so 16 - 18 years old. Does anyone have suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13070" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-06-23T03:39:28.447" LastActivityDate="2022-06-23T08:55:31.437" Title="Strong lightweight material for an art and craft tray" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11157" CreationDate="2022-06-23T07:47:23.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can find HDPE (or maybe it's LDPE) cutting boards in various sizes and thicknesses. One can also purchase sheet polyethylene in various thicknesses. Using this material in a manner similar to wood, a simple tray can be constructed with coarse threaded screws or wood screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of plastic rejects most adhesives and is easily cleaned of paint, glue and materials that may adhere to other types of surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in the comments, more information regarding your capabilities and limitations would better define the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-06-23T07:47:23.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11157" CreationDate="2022-06-23T08:55:31.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of materials that can make a strong tray.  The &amp;quot;easily washed&amp;quot; part is probably the biggest determinant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll assume &amp;quot;washed&amp;quot; means with water rather than hydrocarbon solvents.  How you wash the trays will make a big difference, also.  If they need to be submerged and soaked, or hosed down, they need to be completely waterproof/submersible.  If they can be sponged off with a damp rag, they only need to be water-resistant, and that opens up a lot more options.  Another option is to use a cleanable or disposable liner so the tray doesn't need to be washed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the goal to &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; trays or to &lt;em&gt;make&lt;/em&gt; trays?&lt;/strong&gt;  If you just need trays, consider buying cheap, ready-made trays (cheaper and way faster than making them).  If they need to be REALLY strong and indestructible, you can buy molded plastic food service trays that are roughly the size you need for a few dollars each, available from places like Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they don't need to be quite so strong and indestructible, there are disposable food service trays made of styrofoam or compressed biofiber in the range of 50-60 cents each (here's an example slightly smaller than your target size, I didn't do an exhaustive search for your precise size: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08JFXGJY1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bloomoon Heavy-Duty Disposable Food Serving Trays&lt;/a&gt;.  Depending on the material and cost, you could use them a few times with minimal cleaning and discard them, or coat them to make them more water-resistant or harder so they last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the goal is to make them, here are some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waterproof and washable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/corrugated-plastic-board/s?k=corrugated+plastic+board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Corrugated plastic board.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  This stuff is very strong and waterproof.  It's often used to make outdoor signs, and it's commonly used for trays and totes that contain a lot of weight.  You may find precut sheets the size you need.  There are standard size sheets roughly double your target size that could be cut in half.  I think they're made from polypropylene, so they're difficult to glue.  Construction with this material typically entails scoring and folding, and heat welding.  Discarded signs can be a free source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cellular PVC house trim.&lt;/strong&gt;  This is sold as sheets, boards, and trim moldings at the large hardware chains.  The brand-name stuff can be a little pricey; the chains often have their own in-house brand that's a little less expensive.  If you know a builder or renovator, they often have large scrap pieces left over from jobs, and might donate it to the cause.  You can cut it with woodworking tools and screw it together, or glue the pieces together with the PVC cement used for plumbing.  It doesn't have the load-bearing capacity to use it for structural purposes in building construction, especially in freezing weather, but it is very strong and will stand up to anything you could throw at a tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a local company that makes vinyl window mini-blinds, they often have scrap slats.  Or if you know someone who replaced vinyl mini-blinds in their house, they may be happy to let you take the old blinds off their hands.  These are much thinner than the cellular PVC sheets, so they are much more flexible.  But they are still surprisingly strong if you secure the ends.  They can be fastened side-by-side to create the bottom of the tray.  You can make it even stronger, and keep the slats from separating, by adding another layer of slats running perpendicular.  You can also put a little PVC cement between the layers of slats for additional strength and stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water-resistant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These materials will all require a little care and common sense for cleaning them without degrading the material, or use a liner to avoid the need to wash them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Formica/melamine/vinyl-faced wood.&lt;/strong&gt;  This is available at big hardware stores.  Sheets are typically used for backs of cabinets and bottoms of cabinets and drawers.  Trim pieces are often wrapped molded wood composite.  The laminate facing is easily cleaned.  You mainly need to worry about water getting into joints, seams, edges, or an untreated backside.  Use glue in any joints to seal the faces, and a little caulk or other sealer on seams and joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wood/wood products.&lt;/strong&gt;  Marine plywood will stand up pretty well, especially if you add a good sealer.  But you can also use regular plywood, OSB, Masonite, or other composite wood products, along with wood.  Just do a good sealing job on the wood faces, and the same advice as the previous bullet for joints and seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper.&lt;/strong&gt;  You can make a strong, lightweight tray from several (two or three), glued layers of corrugated cardboard oriented perpendicular to each other.  Cover that with at least one, preferably two, continuous layers of paper mache made with waterproof wood glue.  Seal it well (two or three heavy coats, drying in between), with a waterproof varnish.  This kind of sealing will hold up to temporary surface wetting, but it won't be submersible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cloth saturated with plaster or cement.&lt;/strong&gt;  These are very strong (a few layers of plaster cloth are used for casts for broken bones).  A single cloth towel saturated with cement and laid on a form to harden will make a strong tray.  Even though cement is heavy stuff, you don't need a huge amount of it in a tray.  After the cloth is on the form, vibrate the form, then top off the surface with more cement to make it smooth and stronger before the cement has started to cure.  You can form handles with the cloth when you put it down.  Cement can be a little abrasive, so you may want to sand the surface after it's dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plaster will work better with several thinner layers, each applied before the previous layer has set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either, saturate the surface with sealer after it is fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question doesn't provide details on the intended usage, so you will need to assess which of these approaches will provide appropriate strength and washability for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-06-23T08:55:31.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11163" CreationDate="2022-06-26T23:50:05.040" Score="5" ViewCount="1176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 36&amp;quot; of Aluminum 6061 square bar (5/8&amp;quot;x5/8&amp;quot;) that I am trying to cut into uniform I-shapes shown below where two parallel 2&amp;quot; x 1/8&amp;quot; x 5/8&amp;quot; sections are cut from the long sides of each 2.5&amp;quot; piece.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QtP8Z.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QtP8Z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read online that the most accurate method would be to have a long bar that matches the wider dimensions (2.5&amp;quot; x 5/8&amp;quot;) and running it through a CNC mill to cut it in to the uniform shape, then cutting it in to 5/8&amp;quot; sections. Unfortunately I do not have access to such a large section of aluminum nor a CNC mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertical bandsaw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill Press&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miter Saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bench Grinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking the most straightforward albeit lengthy (and inaccurate) process would be making four cuts from the outside towards the center, then drilling four holes into the side using the drill press with a 7/64&amp;quot; diameter bit then making another cut to remove any remainder material as shown below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWMYa.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWMYa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would need to follow up with either diagonal cuts into the grooves because my bandsaw blade is 0.5&amp;quot; wide from teeth to flat side, so it wouldn't fit flush against the inner plane yet to do cut the long dimension. I think I would have to do additional cuts to get more material out of the way to cut it flat.&#xA;At this point the drilled holes seem sorta unnecessary, but I wouldn't want to risk cutting deep into the finished product right at a corner (stress concentration point) with the diagonal cuts (mainly cut #2). That would result in something like below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U7aSS.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U7aSS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could try to clean away that last triangle to get a flat surface with additional cuts or a file then I could make the long cut along the length of the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process seems extremely tedious and probably illustrates my inexperience really well-- is there anything else I can do with the tools I have to make this more efficient and repeatable?&#xA;I will need to process at least 20 of these for the parts I need. Unfortunately there are no metal shops for small jobs where I live, and purchasing from another state costs almost as much in shipping and handling as the parts themselves cost in material and labor, both of which are in the hundreds of dollars range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would like very flat and parallel surfaces, but with the steps outlined so far each side is going to have at least one triangular lump that is difficult to file down.&#xA;Would a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade help with cutting straighter down into the aluminum? Or maybe a compact angle grinder with a very small diamond blade to start the cut from the top? Even after reading about tools for different metal cutting applications I can't find any that really suit this particular cutting job besides a CNC mill which is thousands of dollars at a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. How can I improve/change this process?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Would I need additional tools for this project?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be willing to spend $200-$300 on a new tool/bit set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance for any advice and input!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13124" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T00:35:52.133" Title="Beginner Question: How would I cut this shape out of 6061 Aluminum?" Tags="|tool-selection|metalworking|metal|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2022-06-27T00:35:52.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't overestimate the difficulty involved in filing aluminum. One can nearly sculpt aluminum into any shape in a very short time, using a sharp file and a file card. It is even practical to use only a file to create a single unit, but not 20, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An angle grinder will either break the cutting disk or clog nearly immediately; reject that option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hobbyist mini-mill, not CNC. It would be somewhat tedious to cut 20 pieces, but not overly so, as your requirements are straightforward. There's no user-to-user communications on this resource, but this is something I'd take on at hobby prices. You may want to broaden your search into mini-mill forums in which you'll find agreeable hobbyists willing to take on your project as a lower cost option. If you do so, you'd want to specify tolerance of the dimensions. For example: do you need 1/8&amp;quot; (0.125 inches) to plus/minus 0.001 inch tolerance? Would you provide the raw material, as you've noted that you have the bar? Less expensive to ship if it's cut to length, even if slightly oversize, using a hacksaw. Aspects of this sort also apply to your own work efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that you could use a hacksaw with a new/sharp blade, (lubricate the blade when in use), an equally sharp file with a file card (I'll have to research lubing a file) and perhaps the drilling as you've suggested. I reference the lubrication, as a file will quickly clog with aluminum, reducing effectiveness. The file card may not keep the teeth as clean as desired. WD-40 and kerosene are common lubes for aluminum machining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your miter saw (electric?) is a good choice for cutting pieces to length, as it will provide more squareness to the cuts. If you have access to a sliding miter saw, you can also set depth-of-cut to your requirements. Additionally, creating the depth-of-cut at the edge of the piece as noted and sliding the work to cause adjacent cuts will remove the triangle of concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, however that the precision available on a sliding miter saw is limited by the flex of the depth-of-cut mechanism. You could mitigate this by applying &amp;quot;excessive&amp;quot; downward force to achieve the desired depth. Once completed, filing could return a uniform depth over the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vertical bandsaw also provides the equivalent capability, as long as you can be certain to limit the depth of cut and to provide appropriate guide on the outside cuts. Making cuts that leaves the appearance of a comb, then cutting away more and filing away the remainder is common in the hobby world, at least my hobby world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T00:35:52.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11165" CreationDate="2022-06-29T09:52:19.953" Score="2" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lo0WY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lo0WY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above is a miniature example of my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an arts and crafts project, I need to trace a shape on a paper (which in this case is a triangle), on to a black illustration board, and the shape on the black illustration board must be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13060" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-06-29T11:28:19.943" LastActivityDate="2022-06-29T14:34:01.710" Title="How do I trace a visible shape from paper to black illustration board?" Tags="|drawing|cardboard|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11164" CreationDate="2022-06-29T11:40:22.593" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a technique used often during the renaissance that allowed artists to transfer their 'cartoons' (a full-size and often completed drawing of the composition) to walls or canvas (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/research/research-resources/studying-raphael/studying-raphael-drawings-and-cartoons#&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique is known as &lt;strong&gt;pouncing&lt;/strong&gt;, and involves perforating the lines of the cartoon (in your example the triangle), fastening it to the surface of the support (i.c. the black illustration board), and wiping charcoal powder along the surface so it penetrates the holes.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The resulting dots of charcoal powder on the support can then be connected by pencil or brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you only need to replace the charcoal powder by &lt;strong&gt;chalk powder&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E6Nn8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E6Nn8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Detail of drawing by Raphael. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tuttartpitturasculturapoesiamusica.com/2010/10/raffaello-sanzio-1483-1520.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, what you can try is covering the back of your design with chalk powder, laying it on top of the black illustration board, and using a somewhat blunt pencil or tortillon to trace the lines of your design. Depending on the surface of the illustration board (that I'm not familiar with) you might be able to get a somewhat legible tracing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-06-29T11:40:22.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11164" CreationDate="2022-06-29T12:01:08.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand why you don't make a &lt;strong&gt;cardboard template&lt;/strong&gt;. This seems like the most simple solution. Drawing with pencil on the board should be visible enough. If not, use it as a stencil by applying a thin layer of paint and pushing it onto the black board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also different kinds of &lt;strong&gt;transfer paper&lt;/strong&gt; for this purpose. The most common are graphite paper or yellow carbon paper. Some packages of transfer paper even contain black and yellow ones. Searching online you'll find a lot of products and with some luck you can get it in a local office supply, art or craft store. Even some fabric and sewing stores offer yellow transfer paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to buy any special product for this purpose, you can recreate a &lt;strong&gt;similar effect to graphite paper with a soft pencil&lt;/strong&gt;. Fill the back of the paper with a soft pencil and really push it down to apply a thick and even layer of pencil lead. Then position the paper on the black board (right side up) and trace the lines with a hard pencil or ballpoint pen, like you would do with carbon paper. The effect is not a strong as with carbon paper, but the silvery reflective pencil lead should still be visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-06-29T14:34:01.710" LastActivityDate="2022-06-29T14:34:01.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-03T07:37:12.200" Score="2" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a problem with binding a rectangle of fabric with rounded corners. The fabric had a slight stretch to it and the corner was rounded off about an inch / 3 cm, so no sharp angle there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I bought jersey binding, because it looked best on my fabric. It looks exactly like bias binding (is prefolded the same way), but instead of a (non-stretch) plain weave cut on the bias, it's cut straight from (stretchy) jersey. Here's a random example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TpptP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TpptPm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was that - even after intense ironing - &lt;strong&gt;I couldn't get the corner to lay flat&lt;/strong&gt;. The jersey always seemed to pull on the corners, curling them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ripped the binding off again and repeated the process with plain cotton bias binding. This time I had no problem at all ironing the corners flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;strong&gt;When should I chose jersey vs. bias binding for my sewing project?&lt;/strong&gt; Is the use of jersey binding limited to certain areas of applications (like inward curves vs. outward curves)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T07:37:12.200" Title="When to chose jersey binding vs. bias binding" Tags="|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11169" CreationDate="2022-07-04T19:57:04.453" Score="5" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to upcycle a skirt by adding a lace trim to increase the length, but I think it sticks out like a sore thumb.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The skirt is straight but the hem below has extreme waves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I flatten these waves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can I add horsehair braid to the back of the skirt (above the pink frills) so that the waviness is consistent between the skirt and the trim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poD5a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poD5a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-07-05T08:14:51.280" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T05:52:57.853" Title="How do I rescue a skirt that I attempted to lengthen but now has a very wavy hem?" Tags="|sewing|clothing|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11168" CreationDate="2022-07-05T05:41:01.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering the materials and cut of the skirt, it behaves exactly like I would expect it to. Since the circumference of the bottom hem is bigger than the hip circumference, the skirt has to either stand out in a cone shape or fold in in places until the outer silhouette resembles a barrel. This property is called &lt;strong&gt;the drape of fabric&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great example can be seen in Melly Sews' article &lt;a href=&quot;https://mellysews.com/what-is-fabric-drape/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One pattern, many fabrics. Understanding fabric drape&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjfrJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjfrJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material of the skirt looks somewhat stiff (possibly linen?), so it has no drape and naturally stands out in a cone shape. Adding any more weight to the bottom is more likely to draw it into a wavy barrel shape. Adding more stiffness (like calico, horsehair braid or interfacing) to the hem can increase the stiffness and revert it to its cone shape (but only for fabrics that have little drape to begin with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking about fashion, style and aesthetics is obviously always a subjective topic, but this skirt clearly is meant to have a cone shape. In a typical circle skirt the bottom hem is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; wider than the hip, so it's &lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt; to fall down in waves. But here to bottom circumference is only very slightly bigger than the hip, so there can only be very few, very big waves, which looks odd. So my personal recommendation is to keep the bottom hem as wide and circular as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color of the trim is another problem. Yes, it sticks out like a sore thumb, because it's the only bright color on the entire skirt. If you want to use this trim, I suggest adding a strip of either the same trim or a ribbon of the same color above the trim and optionally at the hip. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwTul.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwTul.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gives the entire skirt a rounded appearance and makes the trim look &lt;em&gt;intentional&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trim itself can be considered another problem, depending on your taste. The upper edge is pleated, making the upper circumference smaller than the lower one. Just like the skirt, this trim will stand out in a cone shape. If you like this shape, keep it, it looks cute. If you don't like it, you have to either use a different trim or unpick the pleats from this trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWBsu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWBsu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T05:41:01.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-10T12:22:57.307" Score="2" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m recreating all Goodfellas suits and wanted to know what this type of shirt was called and what the type of collar he wears is called as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bU6GU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bU6GU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13166" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-07-11T06:26:52.490" LastActivityDate="2022-07-11T13:23:07.870" Title="What is the shirt collar Ray Liotta wears here called?" Tags="|terminology|costume-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11170" CreationDate="2022-07-11T13:23:07.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the length, which is a little difficult to eyeball in this open position, it can be a long-point or a spearpoint/arrow collar (the latter is more informed by the fact that Goodfellas/Scorsese makes extensive use of these*).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Because of the straight lines and seemingly standard length I assume it's a long-point collar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of shirt is even harder to pinpoint, since it's mostly obscured, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://therake.com/stories/style/celluloid-style-goodfellas/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Rake&lt;/a&gt; calls it &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;an oversized camp collar shirt&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, in which 'camp collar' refers more to the way it's being worn than its appearance: it's an &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;open, unstructured, lay-flat collar&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;,  according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artofmanliness.com/style/clothing/the-camp-collar-shirt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ArtOfManliness&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;What's also noteworthy is that, since Ray is wearing a jacket, the sleeves are likely long, whereas &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a proper fitting camp collar sleeve should end right around your elbow, and be loose, flaring out slightly&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, argues  &lt;a href=&quot;https://theessentialman.com/camp-collar-shirt-fit-guide-men/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TheEssentialMan&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bamfstyle.com/2020/09/19/goodfellas-30/amp/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BamfStyle&lt;/a&gt; calls the shirt &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a one-piece “Lido collar”&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; (item #17).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Searching for that, a lot more references to the &lt;strong&gt;one-piece Cuban collar shirt&lt;/strong&gt; come up, and they clearly resemble Ray's shirt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6VEW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6VEW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;one-piece Cuban collar shirt on TimothyEverest.co.uk&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://timothyeverest.co.uk/one-piece-cuban-collar-shirt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This incorporates the collar type as well, so I think this answers your question.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I left the rest of my research in because it might provide more helpful information - if not for this one, maybe for your other Goodfellas shirt reproductions :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not directly relevant, but I think you might appreciate this: in &lt;a href=&quot;https://therake.com/stories/style/celluloid-style-goodfellas/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog&lt;/a&gt; on ALittleBitOfRest, the author argues the collars seen in Goodfellas are of a different breed altogether, as they are more teardrop-shaped than regular spearpoint collars, and do also seem a lot longer than the other examples there.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The author claims that they &amp;quot;&lt;i&gt;'ve heard reports that it was based on something worn by Italians in the 1960s&lt;/i&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-07-11T13:23:07.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11174" CreationDate="2022-07-12T12:26:28.830" Score="2" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the following &lt;em&gt;sandal&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vI2A2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vI2A2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Construction of a similar sandle can be seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKIb1UcjscY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.  The mid-sole is visible at time 1:03, after which the video shows wrapping the sole in leather and then gluing on the bottom sole (separate wear pads for the sole and heel).  It has the following properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrapped by leather, with an inside that is flexible and has a rubbery feel to it as it absorbs shocks the normal way you would expect a shoe would do.  This inside is what I refer to as the &lt;em&gt;midsole&lt;/em&gt;.  My question is to find out the material that is often used here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no top-sole as the foot sits on leather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a bottom sole, which is a thin light-brown layer.  This is the other sole that I would like to know its material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the mid-sole material used here?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the mid-sole chopped from a bigger block?  Or is it molded in this shape?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the bottom-sole material?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11001" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-07-12T18:33:01.343" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T18:40:52.703" Title="What kind of mid-sole and bottom-sole is used in such leather sandals?" Tags="|material-identification|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11168" CreationDate="2022-07-12T13:51:48.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My apologies to interrupt you, ladies, I hope that you don't mind us (gents) comment on your clothings.  But, I have to admit, we care about your looks more than ours, and I think I have to say that you better do it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Synopsis&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6GnF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I6GnF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Key Design Elements&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the key design elements that I suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add spirals by means of stitches, and some straight cloth (that is not fluffy). Straight cloths seem more relaxing, while fluffs feel rough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, whatever straight fabric that you use to create those spiraling lines, make sure that they're a variation of some white, very similar to the colour of the skirt itself.  Try to avoid any strong colour variations.  Because, similar colours are, again, more relaxing to the observer, while stark colour changes (such as a sudden pink) implies a conflict (subconsciously at least).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the spirals are in the same direction, but also make sure that their angles and turning speed are different, so that they feel &lt;em&gt;natural&lt;/em&gt;, like a flower, or an organic thing (not a machined thing).  When something looks a bit varying, in a natural way, it gives a more relaxing feeling to the observer that he/she is an integral part of nature (not a robot).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extend the skirt, however you want it, by adding new spiral layers.  It can grow as long as you want to be.  It can even grow so long, you drag it behind you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you end the skirt, do not make it flat (horizontal to the ground), instead make it end in an angle, so one side is higher, in a way to reflect the spirals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Delete that pink fluffiness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extra Thoughts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it is too hot, you may leave the spiral lines open from behind in some areas to allow air to freely circulate, while (at the same time) offer privacy by not allowing people to see what's behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the straight fabric that you add to overlay on the spirals may have gaps behind it for airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, you will feel cooler and have the effect of wearing lighter skirts, while looking like a long one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if you want this extra air-circulation idea, but I think it's a neat trick, and generally helps with skirts (because skirts are nice for cooling; for heating, pants are better as they trap air).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Final Remarks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, if done right with care, without rushing, but with adequate planning, drawings, mockups using pins, etc, it will eventually look better than the original one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not sure how much of your time it will consume, and whether it is worth your time.  Henceforth, if I were you, I'd do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I'm feeling experimenting and risk-taking, I'd do it, while putting in my mind that the risk might be that errors may ruin the skirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Else, I'd drop this plan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: I commend you for trying to re-use old things.  I think such behaviour is a sign of a higher intelligence.  All the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11001" LastEditorUserId="11001" LastEditDate="2022-07-13T05:52:57.853" LastActivityDate="2022-07-13T05:52:57.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11172" CreationDate="2022-07-12T18:40:52.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the video, the body of the sole wedge looks like cork (could be several sheets glued to create the wedge shape). The cork grain looks like sheets of solid cork rather than molded ground cork.  Cork is very commonly used for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was wrapped with leather (wet molded).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The light brown wear pads glued to the sole and heel are some kind of off-the-shelf, molded rubber or plastic (hard to tell specifically from the video).  The use of two separate pads suggests it might be a harder, stiffer plastic for better wear; separate pads allows the sole to flex more easily (but it could also just be a cost-saving measure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T18:40:52.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-15T00:21:43.177" Score="4" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a funky old pen where the threads on the barrel have worn away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuibT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuibT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barrel body and cap are mostly brass.  The &amp;quot;business end&amp;quot; of the barrel, in the middle of the picture, is plastic except for the tip, and its plastic threads screw into brass threads in the barrel.  The refill is pushed against the barrel tip by a strong spring behind the other end, so it always stresses the threads.  The tip snaps tightly into the cap, so every time the cap is removed, it pulls against the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years, the plastic threads have sheared off.  Even though you can still see some thread ridges in the picture, it's now at the point where there isn't enough thread height to hold the end in the barrel, it just slides in and out of the barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the pen was made with some generic internal pen hardware (it isn't a brand name pen).  I'm guessing that all such pen hardware does not conform to universal standards, so there would not be a simple way to just buy another barrel end and expect it to mechanically match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at ways to build up the plastic to create some type of sleeve that could mold itself to the brass threads, or use the barrel to cut the threads.  Another approach might be to mold an insert on the brass threads that could be bonded to the plastic stem (would probably require reducing the diameter of the plastic threaded area).  As a last resort, I could always put in a new refill and glue the barrel shut to get as much final use out of it as the refill lasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before experimenting with those solutions, I'm wondering whether there is already a standard fix for this.  For example, are there just a few makers of pen kits, and replacement barrel ends are, in fact, available (based on measurements since the kit can't be identified)?  Or, have people already figured out a solution for fixing these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2023-05-26T13:50:48.053" Title="Is there a standard fix for a pen barrel with worn threads?" Tags="|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-15T13:05:44.207" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to create these blobs that look like they're made of glass. They might actually be made of glass.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have tried clear adhesives, but I would love more input on good ways to craft clear and light reflective pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the inspiration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YNrGA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YNrGA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;glass sculpture picture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13197" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-07-15T13:32:16.200" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T18:27:38.660" Title="What's a proper glass-like material for sculpting blobs?" Tags="|glass|sculpture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11176" CreationDate="2022-07-15T18:27:38.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The piece in the image might be made from glass rod and a blow torch, but here are a few ideas for other materials that could work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lucite rod.&lt;/strong&gt;  Warm it carefully with a low-temperature heat gun (it will scorch if you get it too hot), and it will soften enough to bend and stretch, and will stick to itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clear hot melt glue.&lt;/strong&gt;  You can get clear hot melt glue sticks (they aren't as clear as glass, but probably clear enough to this purpose).  It will slump and flatten, so to retain the circular cross section, you need to cool it before it rests on a flat surface.  People dispense the glue bead into a cold water bath to make things similar to the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method that would probably work (haven't tested it): use a glue bead as viscous as possible by working at the minimum temperature at which the glue flows.  Most common hot glue guns have, at most, a high/low setting, but if the glue stick is multi-temperature and you extrude it on the low setting, it will be a little more viscous.  Hold the nozzle a distance from the surface so the bead doesn't immediately flatten, and dispense onto a cold surface.  The bottom of the bead will flatten, but the bead will retain much of its cross section on the visible part.  With a cold glass (pyrex or other type tolerant of rapid temperature change), or metal surface, you can release the cooled glue by letting a little alcohol wick under the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clear silicone caulk.&lt;/strong&gt;  The resulting bead will be very flexible, but it will retain its shape.  GE silicone caulk type I (the kind that smells like vinegar when it cures), cures in the presence of moisture.  If you squirt the bead into a water bath, the surface quickly skins over, so it tends to retain its circular cross section if you don't disturb it too much.  It will still stick to itself.  It will also want to stick to the water container.  If you use a polyethylene or polypropylene container, it will peel off once it has hardened (it will likely distort if you try to move it before it's hardened).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T18:27:38.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10866" CreationDate="2022-07-15T21:28:41.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;removing any excess fabric may also help with keeping the pressed seam thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13191" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T21:28:41.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10574" CreationDate="2022-07-16T10:06:55.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experimented with this a lot and found that all hardnesses of graphite pencil erase about the same when used with the same amount of pressure. What makes a difference is that you usually press harder when using a harder lead. Pressing harder drives the graphite particles deeper into the paper fibers. It also embosses the paper so the graphite is lying in a valley, making it harder for an eraser to reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13201" LastActivityDate="2022-07-16T10:06:55.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-16T10:23:39.307" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with the graphite dust that accumulates on graphite pencil drawings. The usual approach is to brush it off periodically with a very soft bush, but I'm in a situation where brushing graphite dust onto things would not be acceptable. What would be a good way to lift and trap the dust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought a kneaded eraser might work, but would be awkward to apply to a whole sheet repeatedly. I'm considering tack cloth as is used in wood finishing, but I read that they can leave residue on things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13201" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2022-07-16T16:28:35.010" LastActivityDate="2022-07-16T19:00:27.143" Title="Cleaning pencil dust without brushing it off?" Tags="|pencils|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11180" CreationDate="2022-07-16T19:00:27.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Work with the piece on an oversize sheet of paper, like butcher or kraft paper, to protect the table surface, and brush the graphite dust off the back of the work onto the paper to collect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Periodically vacuum the dust off with a small hand vac with a soft brush nozzle and a HEPA filter (graphite dust is very fine, so you need a vac with a HEPA filter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a drafting &amp;quot;dry cleaning pad&amp;quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.draftingsuppliesdew.com/pacific-arc-professional-dry-cleaning-pad&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;).  These are a porous fabric bag containing powdered gum eraser.  You squeeze the bag to push some powder out onto its surface, then lightly wipe the surface of the work.  The loose graphite sticks to the powder, and the powder is easy to manage and won't transfer graphite onto other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The powder is also available as &amp;quot;drafting powder&amp;quot; (example: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000HF6ZFC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/ALVIN-Drafting-Powder-2oz-Shaker/dp/B000HF6ZFC&lt;/a&gt;) that comes in a shaker can.  You sprinkle some on the work and periodically brush it around, and temporarily brush it out of the way of the area you're working on.  It works the same way but is kind of messy because you leave it there while you work.  The loose powder requires working on a surface that isn't inclined too much from horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: the powder and pads are designed for drafting, where you typically want either dark lines or white paper.  They tend to take a little of the line depth with them, which slightly lightens them.  It isn't too noticeable when it's just dark lines on a white background because the background also gets lighter when you clean it.  With a drawing containing different levels of shading, the lightening will be more noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-07-16T19:00:27.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-17T16:43:00.677" Score="4" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attached is a picture of my Hasbro Revan lightsaber. It's almost accurate to the actual hilt of the Knights of the Old Republic game. The one thing I want to change is the green button and make it black. What materials do I need or is highly suggested?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/neqKy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hasbro Revan FX Elite Lightsaber&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13206" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T04:30:53.620" Title="How should I paint/color my Revan fx lightsaber green button to black?" Tags="|material-selection|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10866" CreationDate="2022-07-17T17:58:11.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the tailor didn't heat the iron to a high enough temperature to alter how the fibers naturally lie. That fabric looks like synthetic (not organic) fiber to me. There's a sweet spot for temp on synthetic fabrics. Too high can melt/burn through the fabric, but too low doesn't flatten anything. Your home iron probably has a couple of settings for synthetics (eg nylon); try them from low to high until it works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13207" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T17:58:11.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11143" CreationDate="2022-07-17T18:57:16.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using conte crayon instead of charcoal. It has more binder in its formulation than any charcoal. My favorite matte black paint is chalkboard paint (acrylic based)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13207" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T18:57:16.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11054" CreationDate="2022-07-17T19:00:45.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean that the yarn is fraying at the end, you could try melting it together. All those are synthetic fibers that would melt at high enough heat. I would try ironing the end between sheets of wax paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13207" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T19:00:45.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-17T20:56:31.000" Score="7" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to repaint a wooden retail store sign. Its lettering is still crisp, but the rest of the wood it's on has darkened with exposure to weather, making the whole thing less legible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About the sign:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wood is some kind of plywood, apparently designed for use in building boats. I can probably get the technical name of the material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wood was barely sealed, or not sealed at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lettering was painted with 1-shot sign-painting enamel (this was probably before their change in formula)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want to cover the whole outward-facing section of the sign with color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sign is mounted to the storefront, and I do not have permission to take it down. I was told that the mounting is &amp;quot;complicated&amp;quot; and the store owner doesn't want nit futzed with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Constraints and considerations:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure that unless I entirely sand off the existing lettering, I have to use oil-based paint, since latex won't adhere well on top of it (right?). I'm worried because I can't reach the back of the sign where it's mounted to the storefront. That means the oil-based paint I apply to the front will prohibit the wood from fully expanding in front, but not in back, increasing the risk of cracking the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also worried about adhesion between the oil-based paint and wood that has been exposed to the outdoors for a long time, no matter how dry it seems to be (I'm waiting for some really sunny days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My tentative plan so far:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanding the surface of the sign&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applying oil-based exterior primer (with a roller)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applying an undercoat (Is this necessary? I'm unsure) (with a roller)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applying oil-based exterior paint (with brushes and a roller)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applying 1-shot sign-painting enamel for lettering (with brushes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Is my plan sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13207" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-07-21T16:52:52.660" LastActivityDate="2022-12-30T19:40:20.253" Title="Outdoor wooden sign repaint" Tags="|painting|paint|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11182" CreationDate="2022-07-17T21:08:09.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much you're going to be touching the button, hobbyist enamel paint (applied with a brush) could work. You can sand the surface of the button first if you're worried about adhesion. I've found Testors brand works pretty well. They sell it at hobby craft stores and art supply stores in very small jars in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest covering the area around the button with blue tape or masking tape, to prevent messes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13207" LastActivityDate="2022-07-17T21:08:09.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-20T05:50:48.813" Score="3" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are sewing two panels together and then pressing the seam allowance open , when do you serge the edges? Do you serge that end before stitching the two panels together, or do you stitch then serge afterwords. I imagine doing it after has the benefit of getting a smaller open seam, but is much harder to work with under the machine.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.sewmaris.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/SergeCollage.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;open seam allowance&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13248" LastActivityDate="2022-07-26T12:35:35.210" Title="When do you serge with an open seam" Tags="|sewing|seams|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11188" CreationDate="2022-07-21T12:01:54.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to press open the seams, such as the 1st picture on the left, it’s easier to serge all of the edges before sewing the seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The 1st pic shows this order: cut, serge, sew, press open.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second pic with the seem serged together, is typically serged after the seem is sewn. Though, it is possible to serge the seem and then straight stitch after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have practiced all options for various reasons with different types of fabrics. When serged separately, alterations can be made later.  &lt;em&gt;“Take it in” or “let it out”&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When serged them together, that’s it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for woven fabrics that you want to make alterations to in the future, serge all your edges after cutting, make your pattern markings, then sew and press seems open as you progress through the garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T12:01:54.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11194" CreationDate="2022-07-25T15:18:34.463" Score="4" ViewCount="1852" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the following shoe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCA5z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCA5z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has some leather that is wrapped around some cork, and held in place by &lt;em&gt;glue&lt;/em&gt; and nail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is in a very similar scenario:  suppose that we replace that cork by rubber, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; How would we be able to wrap leather around it securely for the purpose of a shoe?  Which type of glue to use to make the leather stick to the rubber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various types of rubber, such as natural rubber, or EPDM.  I prefer natural rubber or EPDM.  If your answer is specific to a given kind of rubber, kindly state which rubber you refer to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I found some advice saying that it is tricky to glue things to rubber, while finding products marketed for rubber. So I thought that people with more hands on experience can go beyond manufacturers' claims and share what actually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11001" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-07-25T19:53:58.327" LastActivityDate="2022-07-26T02:38:42.207" Title="How to securely glue leather to rubber?" Tags="|adhesives|leather|rubber|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11193" CreationDate="2022-07-25T21:10:59.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shoes are demanding in terms of adhesive requirements.  It often involves bonding different materials to each other, including porous materials like leather or fabric to rubber or plastic, which can be hard to bond to.  The bond needs to survive continuous flexing, being exposed to high and low temperatures, getting wet with water (or hydrocarbons like gasoline at a filling station), and have a life approaching that of the shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, these requirements have been around for a long time, and solutions have been figured out and perfected.  There's a good assortment of proven adhesives, some designed specifically for this purpose, that are routinely used to manufacture or repair shoes, including bonding rubber to leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of what's sold for this purpose are variations on polyurethane glue (like Gorilla Glue), or cyanoacrylate glues (superglue).  But the most effective, and what shoe manufacturers and repairers use, are mostly variations of a flexible, rubbery material, like Neoprene, in a solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very common one used in the industry is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bargeadhesive.com/products1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Barge Cement&lt;/a&gt;.  It's sold to professionals/manufacturers by the gallon or drum, but you can find it in small containers at retailers.  Others go by names like Shoe Goo, Shoe Fix, Boot Fix, and similar variations on the theme.  There are a few general purpose adhesives with a similar formulation (often called &amp;quot;construction adhesives&amp;quot; because of the high bond strength on a variety of materials), like E6000.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://glueinsider.com/shoe-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; has a list of good adhesives in consumer-sized packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find reviews of adhesives for this purpose online.  The examples mentioned above are typically at the top of those reviews.  I tend to have E6000 on hand because it is generally very good at bonding a wide variety of stuff, and have used it to reglue rubber soles to the leather (these repairs have held up for several years so far and show no signs of deterioration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-07-26T02:38:42.207" LastActivityDate="2022-07-26T02:38:42.207" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11188" CreationDate="2022-07-26T12:35:35.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the fabric, the properties of the finished piece and the person sewing the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best to serge &lt;strong&gt;each edge independently&lt;/strong&gt; if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fabric is slippery, frays extremely quickly or is otherwise hard to handle. Serging each piece gives you more room for errors and to undo seams without undoing the serging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The garment is supposed to be worn by different people or by a person with a rapidly changing body (like children or pregnant people). Leaving a big seam allowance gives you the opportunity to adapt the garment to different body shapes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fabric is very thick and you want to avoid bulky seams. Pressing the seam open looks neater in thick fabrics than pressing the seams to one side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best to serge &lt;strong&gt;both pieces together&lt;/strong&gt; if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to finish quickly and save resources. Serging uses up &lt;em&gt;A Lot&lt;/em&gt; of thread.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's little risk of you ever needing to undo the seams.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best to serge the edges &lt;strong&gt;after sewing the seams&lt;/strong&gt; if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cut with big seam allowances but don't want to leave all that extra fabric in the finished garment. For example if your pattern doesn't fit you 100% and you want to make little alterations before cutting the seam allowance back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best to serge the edges &lt;strong&gt;before sewing the seams&lt;/strong&gt; if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fabric frays a lot. You'll want to get that dealt with as soon as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The finished piece will be very big or heavy and difficult to get under the machine after sewing the seams.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some situations dictate one order or another, but in most cases it's up to the preference of the person doing the sewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-07-26T12:35:35.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11198" CreationDate="2022-07-27T05:31:04.197" Score="4" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have project made up of small triangles of wood forming a polygonal shape.  Between each of the pieces of wood is a gap, and I would like to fill this gap with a clear material that can be sanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried silicone, but it comes out lumpy and there's no way to smooth it out.  Ideally, I think a thick epoxy resin mixed with clear filler might work, but I can't seem to find something like that.  I've also seen there is such thing as transparent grout, but finding a small tin of it has been difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you go about filling these cracks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  Adding details as per request:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the overall objective is to put light in the model, and have it shine out the cracks so:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clearness matters, as clear as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strength would be nice, but it doesn't need to be super strong&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;being able to sand it smooth makes a big difference in the final polish and shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is hollow, but I have already used silicone to back the gaps (just can't fill out to the face and smooth correctly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13077" LastEditorUserId="13077" LastEditDate="2022-07-27T14:52:15.593" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T21:29:25.543" Title="Is there a clear grout/paste like material for filling in cracks?" Tags="|transparency|sculpture|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11196" CreationDate="2022-07-27T18:45:16.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mainly write this answer to give you the possible pros and cons of &lt;strong&gt;using epoxy&lt;/strong&gt;. Without seeing your project (mainly the size) I cannot recommend using it. You can achieve incredible results with epoxy, but honestly it's a difficult material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find fast curing (5 - 10 minutes) epoxies in many construction stores or online. They typically look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JrglM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JrglM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;This is a random example. I'm not affiliated with the manufacturer in any way.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the hardener usually has a yellow tint and the cured epoxy will continue to yellow in time. Honestly it looks very old and unattraktive. You can create nice effects by tinting it red, though (&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/6124/6316&quot;&gt;read this related question&lt;/a&gt;). Trying to tint it blue will result in an ugly green tone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want perfectly colorless and clear epoxy that won't yellow too much in time, you'll have to buy a special craft resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QzKEom.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QzKEom.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;This is a random example. I'm not affiliated with the manufacturer in any way.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are often marketed as &amp;quot;liquid glass&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;jewelery&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;crystal&amp;quot; resins. However, these are usually meant to be poured and then level out on their own, so the consistency is very liquid. Different brands offer different curing times (usually between 30 minutes and 24 hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use such a liquid epoxy, you either need to apply many thin layers and let each cure completely, or you have to wait after mixing the components until it starts thickening up. Once the epoxy starts thickening, there's only a very short time left to work with it (until it's too hard) and you risk trapping air bubbles in it. If you plan on sanding the finished piece anyways, that might be acceptable for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mixing ratios&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might get the idea that mixing more hardener into the epoxy should make it more viscous, but the opposite is true. Both components (resin and hardener) are initially liquid and must be mixed as exactly as possible in the ratio defined by the manufacturer. Having too much or not enough hardener will result in a sticky resin that never fully cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fillers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing crushed glass shards or tiny glass balls into epoxy creates a pretty effect. Glass has a different refraction index than epoxy, so you'll be able to see where glass and epoxy touch. With glass shards it looks like a shattered crystal but has the full strength of epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fhKrrl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fhKrrl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dkonline.2022store.ru/category?name=glass%20resin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;em&gt;This is a random example. I'm not affiliated with the manufacturer in any way.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Health considerations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All epoxies must only be used outside or in a well ventilated room or you must wear a respirator the entire time while working with it. Even if the resin doesn't outright stink, the chemicals released while curing can irritate your airways and eyes and even cause allergies. You have to wear nitrile gloves because skin contact can cause allergies even several hours after contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must wear a mask (like an N95 or FFP2 or better) whenever you sand epoxy and you should keep the sandpaper wet to bind the dust. The dust becomes airborne very quickly, gets inhaled and irritates your airways and lungs. Since Epoxy is anorganic, your body cannot break it down and it stays in your lungs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T18:45:16.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11196" CreationDate="2022-07-27T21:16:02.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being a 3D shape adds some complication.  If it was a flat surface, you could dam the outside edges and use any number of clear, hardening materials that flow, like epoxy resin.  You could still do that if you orient the piece so one seam is up and level, dam the ends of that seam, and fill that seam and let it solidify, then repeat for every other seam, which would take forever.  But it would let you use a clear epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the primary objective is to let light through the seams, a translucent filler can work.  Diffusers on light fixtures are often translucent to mask the ugly bulbs behind them or to spread and even out the light without significantly reducing the amount of light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between clear and translucent is that clear materials let light travel straight through the material, so you can see things like the edges of what's bordering the fill.  Translucent materials let light pass through, but it is bent in random directions on the way, becoming diffused.  The light is too jumbled to make out details, but it will pick up large-scale characteristics, like the reflected color of what's bordering the fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear grout works that way.  These tend to be translucent more than clear, but pick up the color of the glass or tile it's in contact with.  You can add clear filler to something like epoxy (fumed silica, which is basically glass, is often used).  That thickens it so it stays where you put it and doesn't flow.  But if the refractive index of the fill doesn't match that of the epoxy, light gets bent in random directions as it passes from one material to the next within the mixture, and it becomes translucent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind on projects like this: you can usually find materials that will work.  But often, the materials will be expensive, at least in the quantity you need, or are sold for an application that normally uses it on a different scale.  You might need to buy a much larger quantity than you need as the smallest size available, or might need to buy wholesale quantities of something normally used in tiny amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few ready-made materials that could work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clear grout.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://whywelikethis.com/best-transparent-grouts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The 5 Best Transparent Grouts (2022 reviews)&lt;/a&gt; reviews some example products that the authors think are good (not all of the products listed are close to transparent, though, or else some of the links are corrupted and point to something else).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturers appear to use &amp;quot;transparent&amp;quot; for any product that picks up the color of what it is in contact with.  That effect only needs to happen near the surface, a thick layer can be close to opaque.  Reviewers of several of the products on Amazon discussed hoping to illuminate the grout in one area and have the light spread through the seams so they glowed over a wide area, but the illumination was very local.  If you have a strong light on the inside of your piece, you should get some amount of glow to highlight the wood, but it won't be super bright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can largely control the surface at the time you apply it.  You'll be able to sand off errant bits of grout, even smooth the surface if needed.  You probably won't be able to effectively polish the surface to make it shiny, but that won't affect it's performance.  These are translucent, and even a very smooth surface is likely to have a bit of a frosted look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A closely related product is &amp;quot;clear&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;epoxy repair medium&lt;/strong&gt; designed for things like granite countertops and tile.  Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000VLY7UM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;.  The viscosity is low enough for it to act like a glue in a hairline crack, but it is thick enough to mostly stay where you put it.  So if it contains a filler, there probably isn't much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a repair, you cut off the excess after it hardens.  The seam picks up the color of the surrounding material, making it close to invisible.  Thin layers are clear, thick layers are somewhat opaque, but it should transmit enough of the light to at least glow and highlight the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clear UV resin.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you start with a thick (viscous) UV resin, it will pretty much stay where you put it until you cure it, and you can do one seam at a time so you aren't fighting gravity.  You can also build it up in layers.  These will typically flow enough to self-level, and they usually come in dispenser bottles so you can put it exactly where you want it, so you shouldn't need to polish the surface.  However, you could.  Dentists often use UV resin for temporary fillings, and grind and polish them.  Some clear UV resins will eventually yellow, others don't.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://3dinsider.com/uv-glue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What is UV Glue? Properties, Pros and Cons, Best Brands&lt;/a&gt; has some good discussion and some product reviews.  Besides the products sold primarily as glues, you can get product sold as resin for molding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moldable plastic.&lt;/strong&gt; There is a type of plastic that you warm in hot water or with a low temperature heat gun and it becomes very soft and pliable so you can mold it.  When it cools, it's hard and similar to nylon.  It's clear when hot and becomes translucent when cold, but it should transmit light well in the thickness you're talking about (just use the uncolored material; you could also mix in some color pellets to tint it but I'm not aware of how that affects transparency).  When hot, it will bond to many materials, including wood, a bit like hot melt glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your project, you would soften it and roll it into a rod, then press it into the seam.  You can smooth the surface by warming it with a heat gun, then wetting your finger and lightly rubbing it to smooth and polish it.  You shouldn't need to sand or polish it, but you could once it's cool (it's machinable).  Just take your time, and maybe lubricate the surface with some water, so the friction doesn't build up enough heat to resoften it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material doesn't become liquid and flow when hot, it just becomes soft and moldable.  The working temperature is around 150°F, which can be hot enough to be uncomfortable to work with with your bare skin, although it softens a little below that temperature.  The point being that enclosing a light inside the piece could build up heat if you don't use a source like LED light.  I wouldn't worry with LED lights, but if a hot light source is used and it is on for a long time, this filler could soften to the point where someone handling the piece could deform the filler, in which case you would need to smooth it out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of companies make the product, and they're all pretty equivalent.  You can find them by doing a search like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hot+water+moldable+plastic&amp;amp;i=arts-crafts&amp;amp;crid=2C2V9IG5FB120&amp;amp;sprefix=hot+water+moldable+plastic%2Carts-crafts%2C75&amp;amp;ref=nb_sb_noss_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hot water moldable plastic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clear hot melt glue.&lt;/strong&gt;  Even normal, translucent hot melt glue will transmit light and work for this purpose.  There are lots of YouTube videos of people making flashlights/reading lights or &amp;quot;light sabers&amp;quot; from a glue stick with the end melted onto an LED bulb.  But you can get it in clear, which would be closer to what you're looking for.  Much of what is readily available is multi-temperature, which means it melts at the low temperature setting and doesn't self-destruct at the high setting.  The low temperature range is still pretty high in terms of what it would encounter under normal circumstances.  If you can find high-temperature-only glue sticks, that would be better, but even low-temperature or multi-temperature should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good glue gun will let you control where you put it, and you can get it to self-level by going over it with a heat gun at a low temperature setting.  If you're careful, there wouldn't be a need to sand and polish.  Errant glue can be scraped off with a knife or removed from the wood with a little sanding.  But it is a pretty soft material that gets softer or becomes liquid when it heats up, so it isn't practical to use sanding to polish the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mold a polished surface into it, though.  For example, mold a flat or curved piece that fits the top of the seam from silicone caulk.  Heat the glue surface to melt it and press the molded piece against it.  When the glue is cold, peel off the mold and the hot glue surface will be smooth and shiny.  You can also use other materials, like a glass or metal rod.  A few drops of alcohol at the edge of the glue after it cools will wick in and release the form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot melt glue stays hard in a big enough temperature range that I wouldn't worry about it melting if you use LED lighting inside, especially if you use high-temperature glue.  But if you create an &amp;quot;Easy Bake Oven&amp;quot; by enclosing a halogen or incandescent bulb inside, and leave it on for a long time, low-temperature or multi-temperature glue could start to melt.  Even then, it probably wouldn't flow anywhere.  But if it did get hot enough, the glue could become liquid and potentially flow and make a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-07-27T21:29:25.543" LastActivityDate="2022-07-27T21:29:25.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11200" CreationDate="2022-07-31T00:17:09.303" Score="7" ViewCount="1508" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the episode &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOziR7PoVco&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bob Ross - Ebony Sunset (Season 1 Episode 3)&lt;/a&gt; a black canvas is used. I was following along painting my own version of the painting, but found that I obtained a dull brown when I added &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadmium_pigments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cadmium&lt;/a&gt; yellow near the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of the base black is a layer of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alizarin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alizarin&lt;/a&gt; crimson. I started with a white canvas, and added a layer of midnight black. Without waiting for the layer of black to dry, I added the layer of alizarin crimson, then some &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Van_Dyke_brown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Van Dyke brown&lt;/a&gt; around the edges, and then the yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing that I had made a brown mess, I allowed the paint to dry and I retried applying alizarin crimson followed by the yellow and achieved the gradient of red-to-orange-to-yellow I had hoped for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it correct that for this painting one should ensure that the black base coat has dried before starting to follow along with the video?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15434" LastEditorUserId="15434" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T01:47:14.053" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T01:47:14.053" Title="Bob Ross - Ebony Sunset - Did he use a dry black base coat?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11199" CreationDate="2022-07-31T08:17:22.677" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bob Ross usually starts his paintings with a completely dried base coat. He starts this particular episode explaining that he already prepared a coat of alizarin crimson, but that should make the canvas red, not black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I assume he did is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare the canvas with a black base coat and let it dry completely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right before the show, add a thin layer of alizarin crimson. He most likely did it in the exact same way he shows how to add the vandyke brown, only spread over the entire canvas instead of just the edges. It's vitally important that this layer is very thin, but at the same time covering the entire canvas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(This is where the show starts) Add an equally thin layer of vandyke brown to the edges of the canvas and blend it with the crimson.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint the sun with cadnium yellow, moving the brush from the center of the sun to the outside in a circular motion. That leaves a lot of yellow paint in the center that doesn't mix with the crimson + brown base coat. Around the center, the brush picks up more and more of the crimson + brown base and it gets evenly mixed with the yellow, creating a soft transition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the colors of a painting vibrant, you mustn't mix them with black. So working on a fresh black base coat will inevitably make the colors muddy and brown because the brush always picks up some of the base coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your light colors (white, yellow, etc) still come out muted even after you let the base coat dry, the paint you're using might be low quality. Painting light colors over a dark background requires a lot of pigments to cover up alle the black, but pigments are the most expensive ingredient in paints. So cheap paints usually contain less pigments and more fillers than expensive paints, which makes them less opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-07-31T08:42:44.667" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T08:42:44.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11202" CreationDate="2022-07-31T17:08:49.963" Score="3" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In producing a painting I taped some canvas to a board, which resulted in margins. Unfortunately the margins are not as clean as I would like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly I just want to make my next paintings better instead of fidgeting too much with the same painting. But something I wouldn't mind try to fix is the margins. Near the top left you can see little spits of paint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fONix.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fONix.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried patching some of these spits of paint with titanium white and a pallet knife, but it sticks out because (1) it appears bluish and (2) this white doesn't seem to match the white of the canvas itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MEH4Q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MEH4Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I clean up the margins of this painting so that they are a nice uniform white (i.e. no bluish smudges)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15434" LastEditorUserId="15434" LastEditDate="2022-07-31T19:21:29.007" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T19:21:29.007" Title="How to clean up margins of a wet-on-wet oil painting?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11201" CreationDate="2022-07-31T18:08:11.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you don't clean the margins at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you painted on a canvas that wasn't stretched on a wooden frame (so just the fabric), the logical next step is to do exactly that. To mount the canvas, the edges are stretched around the wooden frame and nailed or tacked to the back of it. That means the final picture will be smaller than the canvas. Ideally all parts of the canvas you didn't paint should dissappear that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you painted on a canvas that was already mounted, you should paint all the way to the edge. You should even paint the edges with the base coat (black or white or whatever you fancy) to give the painting a neat appearance. That means you need a better way to hold the canvas steady while painting than some sticky tape. The traditional way is of course an easel, but you could just as well hammer a few nails into a big wooden board to hold it steady or screw some wooden blocks onto a board. Be creative, I'm sure there are many more solutions that work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If neither option is doable now, the &amp;quot;professional&amp;quot; way to neaten up the edges is via a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mat_(picture_framing)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;passepartout&lt;/a&gt;. That's a paper or cardboard frame that hides all the ugly bits at the edge of the canvas. It can give the entire picture a very different look or mood, depending on its size and color. You should try holding some long cardboard or paper pieces in different colors next to the images to find the color of passepartout that fits the painting best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T18:08:11.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-07-31T19:15:45.887" Score="4" ViewCount="929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to get into silicone casting, and eventually I'm going to want to produce food safe products in &lt;em&gt;custom&lt;/em&gt; colors. (Food containers, utensils... teething toys. Stuff that needs to be safe for both food contact and being repeatedly in my, or someone else's, mouth. Or in extended contact with &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; mucous membranes, in case I decide to be weird and make nose plugs. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using already-colored product is not an option unless someone makes a color range of a single, food-grade product that would allow mixing to get custom colors. Although, I want to eventually be able to do metallic and/or glow-in-the-dark colors as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't need &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; product recommendations, just general info, e.g. are alcohol-based food-safe dyes okay? Mica powder? Basically, what do I need to be looking for in order to &lt;em&gt;find&lt;/em&gt; a suitable product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and of course, it needs to be a product that doesn't prevent curing or otherwise cause the silicone to no longer be food safe. (Obviously we're talking about platinum-cure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; this is possible; there are plenty of colored  silicone  products in existence, in far too many colors to believe it isn't possible to create custom colors. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKICa.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;/&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lW6lP.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;/&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMep8.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;/&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7QY6f.png&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;/&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Images courtesy Amazon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's an example of glowing colors: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07F2NNM3Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2NNM3Q&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems almost impossible to find information on how this is accomplished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. Yes, I'm aware that legally speaking I would need to get my products certified. Even so, surely there are products known to be &lt;em&gt;capable&lt;/em&gt; of achieving certification, just as I'm sure there are others known to be harmful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11651" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-08-10T15:10:25.773" LastActivityDate="2022-08-10T15:10:25.773" Title="How to color food-safe silicone?" Tags="|material-selection|casting|food-safe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11203" CreationDate="2022-08-01T06:25:37.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're kind of asking the wrong question.  &lt;strong&gt;How&lt;/strong&gt; to color food-safe silicone is the simple part.  You just add food-safe colorants.  There are companies that sell these, like Colorsoul, a Chinese company, sells &lt;a href=&quot;https://colour-soul.com/product/lsr-colorant/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LSR liquid silicone colorants&lt;/a&gt;, some of which are food safe silicone additives when properly used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard part is in the definition of food-safe or other kinds of &amp;quot;safe&amp;quot;.  It isn't food-safe because you make it from components that are food safe.  It's food safe because you convince the appropriate government regulatory organization that your finished product meets their requirements for being labelled as safe for a specific purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different kinds and levels of &amp;quot;safe&amp;quot;, with different requirements.  For example, medical devices, infant bottle nipples or teething toys, food storage for various types of foods and storage conditions, temporary food contact, high-temperature cooking utensils, etc.  It can be expensive to meet these regulatory hurdles (and even more expensive if you don't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a &amp;quot;food-safe&amp;quot; (or other kind of &amp;quot;safe&amp;quot;), label applies only to the specific type of use you get it approved for.  So you couldn't get approval for a utensil that will be in temporary contact with food, and then make nose plugs out of the same material and claim they're safe for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making something that you can claim or imply is food-safe, and sell legally and with limited liability, generally isn't within the financial means of a hobbyist occasionally making them in their basement.  It requires a substantial investment that would normally be amortized over a lot of production on a commercial scale.  And the colorants are sold in quantities appropriate to that scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To better address the clarification added to the question and discussed in comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will be making these items just for use by yourself and your family and friends, won't be selling them, and they don't pose a clear and present danger to the public, the government won't come after you, and your friends probably won't sue you if they get sick and understood the risks.  People are free to put anything they want into their mouth and other orifices (nose and ears are some examples of other orifices).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can use any basis you want to define a level of safety you're comfortable with.  Say it will be adequate to just restrict the materials to substances that have been certified as usable in food-safe end products, and you will judge proper curing by the physical characteristics of the finished item (does it feel properly cured, no odor, no surface residue, etc.).  Just use colorants that are sold for use in food-safe products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LSR, mentioned earlier, is one.  But you could also contact other big makers of &amp;quot;food-safe&amp;quot; silicone or colorants, like Smooth-On, to inquire about which of their products might be suitable.  Making products sold as food-safe is normally done on a commercial scale because of the costs involved; that's the audience and market for the colorants.  So sellers of the colorants don't advertise them to the public or sell them in small retail quantities for hobbyist use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use pigments that aren't harmful and may be more readily available.  For example, colored mica is used in things like eye shadow, which needs to be safe enough that people won't be seriously harmed by accidentally getting some in their eye or ingesting a small amount.  It takes very little of it to color silicone, it gets permanently contained within the silicone, and nothing leaches out of it when exposed to water or substances in food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-08-02T20:42:38.183" LastActivityDate="2022-08-02T20:42:38.183" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-04T08:51:42.607" Score="5" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose that we have a mold, made of whatever material that we are happy with.  This mold is usually used to be filled by some casting material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many casting materials exist.  Usually, this material is supposed to capture details in the mold, and hold the little details.  It is also supposed to be durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my casting requirement is &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do not care about the details.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do not care about the durability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, my &lt;em&gt;requirements&lt;/em&gt; are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cast must be durable enough &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; to be used as a template for a single leather work, after which the cast is thrown away.  So I don't care about long time durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sturdiness should be enough to allow for using the cast to press it on a wet leather (to wet-form/shape leather) for a single time.  After this single time, the cast is thrown away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The casting will be used to wet-form the leather into a 3D shape, such as a bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Surface details are not important, as the leather won't capture the details anyway.  There can be a few chips at the edges, no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The texture and colour of the cast is irrelevant, since it is not used in the final product (it is used only to press some wet leather to form some shape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The process is repeated for many pieces.  So it has to be fast in terms of my time involvement (but it's fine if the casting needs to harden for a few days after I make it).  This eliminates slow techniques, such as crafting a template using wood that is chipped until it forms the required shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The mold for the casting will be custom made for that use, but with some fast process, such as shaping it from clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are different casting materials, such as various types of plasters, chemicals to mix to form various plastics, etc, but I don't know much about these, as I have never did any molding nor casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this requirement, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;my question is:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;  What is the cheapest casting material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The casting material and technique may depend on the molding material.  In case it does, feel free to pick the molding material and technique suitable for your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11001" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-08-05T01:15:47.277" LastActivityDate="2022-08-05T01:15:47.277" Title="Cheapest casting material for a single use of wet-forming leather?" Tags="|casting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11205" CreationDate="2022-08-04T17:32:10.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One material to consider, in quite good supply, with substantial strength and fast working time is HDPE. It is recycling symbol 2 and is used to make various bottles and other products. Durability is high, although you've noted that it is a single use item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One chops up bottles into easily melted pieces until the material will flow, although it is viscous. Obviously, the mold must be able to handle the temperatures used to melt the plastic, 131 °C / 268 °F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can create walls on the mold sufficiently to provide for appropriate thickness of the cast, increasing the strength from that of the ordinary bottle from which the plastic has been melted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is that a piece of this melted material, when cooled, of approximately 10 mm thickness would withstand wet-leather forming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheapest? Perhaps yes, if you can collect from recycling bins or from your own use. The only cost becomes the toaster oven necessary to melt it, although I've seen videos of electric griddles being used as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUR6_bQLU-E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter Brown's video&lt;/a&gt; shows that using a griddle did not work as well as he liked, and moving to a toaster oven apparently worked for him. I should note that he used a blender to &amp;quot;pulverize&amp;quot; the plastic, in his words and it does seem to do a great/fast job. I hope to remember that for my next HDPE project. Baking paper is also a requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-08-04T17:32:10.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11205" CreationDate="2022-08-04T18:58:26.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your clarifications in the comments, if the idea is to quickly create the mold from clay, the casting material would need to be something workable at room temperature.  You could use &lt;strong&gt;cement&lt;/strong&gt;, which is cheap.  As long as it is just sand and cement, or contains very small aggregate, it will pick up fine enough details for your purpose.  But any design that protrudes from the surface that is thin or comes to a sharp edge will be brittle.  If you don't want to mix your own, a concrete topper or leveler would work.  There is finer, stronger cement often used for casting, like CementAll, but it's more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mold and shape green sand as a reusable, high-temperature mold material.  Green sand is a mixture of sand, clay, and water, and sometimes other additives, commonly used for casting metal.  There are &lt;strong&gt;metals&lt;/strong&gt; that melt at low temperatures that can be cast with household stuff (but pay attention to proper ventilation, fire precautions, and PPE).  You can remelt the metal to make new castings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mold a positive out of clay, you can use that to cast a mold out of concrete, plaster, or green sand, which can be used to mold other materials that would soften clay.  Those other materials can be reusable, so the net cost is low.  For example: &lt;strong&gt;hard wax&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;hot-melt glue&lt;/strong&gt; (build up in layers to reduce shrinkage), or &lt;strong&gt;hot-water-moldable plastic&lt;/strong&gt;.  I would use this technique with green sand only for casting metal, as the other casting materials are likely to hold onto some of the sand, which would be a problem for reusing it, and some could crumble the sand getting it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use this technique with concrete, and probably plaster, with fred_dot_u's suggestion of recycled HDPE.  But note that HDPE requires keeping it under some pressure in the mold until it is cool because it really warps, especially if not cooled evenly and slowly.  The mold would need to be reinforced, like contained in a sturdy wooden box, to prevent the pressure from breaking the mold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The casting doesn't necessarily need to be solid.  The casting can be a shell containing the detail, which you support by filling from behind with a cheap, or reusable material.  This can save you some cost if you are using a casting material with a consistency like putty that you can press against the wall of the mold to create a shell.  In addition to what's been mentioned, there are some cement products, like &lt;strong&gt;SculptCrete&lt;/strong&gt;, that can be molded like clay by mixing the appropriate amount of water.  They're more expensive, but you don't need much to mold a shell of it, which you can then backfill with cheap material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-08-04T20:41:38.903" LastActivityDate="2022-08-04T20:41:38.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-04T22:07:10.910" Score="2" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get into silicone casting, in particular to be able to make food-safe items out of (platinum-cure, obviously!) silicone. For various reasons (including simplicity/ease), I expect to be using primarily silicone-in-silicone. (Assume silicone-in-silicone for the purposes of this question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, silicone is supposed to be pretty inert stuff, but I was also watching &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mSAaTkBnaM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; that talked about urethane intrusion into a silicone mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there's a bunch of incomplete information floating around, so I'm hoping to get something of a more definitive answer. &lt;strong&gt;What guidelines need to be followed to make a food-safe mold and/or part?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, is it critical to stick to molds and/or positives that are already food safe, or is there a point at which merely using food-safe silicone can &amp;quot;sanitize&amp;quot; an unsafe surface? What materials (e.g. urethane?) do I need to keep far, far away from my molds to avoid contamination that would render them unsafe? Also, what steps if any do I need to take to keep the molds themselves safe after environmental exposure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd like to follow (or at least be &lt;em&gt;able&lt;/em&gt; to follow) the US FDA &amp;quot;small business&amp;quot; standards. Meaning, I'm not going to be paying for expensive certification, but should be able to show that the processes I'm following would be able to pass certification. I'm not &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; planning on selling anything, but this feels like a comfortable standard for things that might affect &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; health or that of family and/or friends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final parts will be, at minimum, hand-washed before exposure to food and/or mouths. If necessary, I'm not aware of any reason I would not be able to boil, bleach, or bake them before use (provided that doesn't degrade the silicone, which I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; it shouldn't...).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Examples of stuff I want to be able to recreate might be sticks, bones, 3D prints of dubious provenance... really, &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; that is assuredly not food-safe to start out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11651" LastActivityDate="2023-02-15T01:05:05.977" Title="What precautions need to be observed to create a food-safe silicone mold?" Tags="|material-selection|casting|mold-making|food-safe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11205" CreationDate="2022-08-04T22:19:37.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plaster of paris (a.k.a &amp;quot;drywall mudding&amp;quot;) is probably your best bet for cheap and strong; [almost] every hardware store has it.  The only drawback is a possible film (on the underside of the leather ifit is wet) - several variables can affect this.  If it's a problem, you can use a poor-man's fixative:  Hair spray (cheap and quick-drying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15455" LastActivityDate="2022-08-04T22:19:37.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-07T13:31:27.210" Score="7" ViewCount="1649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try to replicate the fire effect that you can see in the picture below using hot glue, to produce a ring of flames around a 3&amp;quot; model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of paints and/or techniques should I use so that it retains some of the translucency of the hot glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I, for example, color it by hand using alcohol marker pens, or use a certain kind of paint with an airbrush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UMvtf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UMvtf.png&quot; alt=&quot;images showing flames created with hot glue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan to extrude the glue from the gun and to paint the colors, as this is what I know already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2022-08-10T08:35:12.373" LastActivityDate="2022-09-09T12:34:57.990" Title="How do I paint hot glue so that it's slightly translucent?" Tags="|material-selection|painting|medium-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11210" CreationDate="2022-08-10T09:31:25.363" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best material that comes to my mind is Window Color, an acrylic based liquid paint used to create faux stained glass ornaments. Alternatively, acrylic paints designed to paint directly on glass work as well. It's important that the paint is formulated to stick to glass and stay flexible after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of Window Color and glass paints are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It stays very flexible after drying. Whereas hot melt glue is rather flexible, most other paints will chip off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colors that are vibrant and translucent are readily available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paints mix easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's relatively cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; stick to hot melt glue, but I have no first-hand experience and my old Window Color paints are a rubbery, dried mess. You might have to cover the entire glue flame with a thick coat of Window Color to make sure it doesn't separate from the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a test comparing acrylic glass paints with regular acrylic paints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yApEN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yApEN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;test batch of hot melt glue flames&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left (foreground): Hot melt glue painted with acrylic glass paint. The paint drew back from the glue in small places. It's translucent and vibrant. I only had yellow and orange paints, it would look better with red in the mix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left (background): One bit of unpainted hot melt glue to demonstrate the opacity of the base material. My glue isn't very transparent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right: Hot melt glue painted with normal acrylic hobby paint. The paint drew back from the glue instantly and only stuck to it in rough patches. The paint itself is also opaque. I stopped this test after applying yellow paint because anything more would have been a waste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other ideas I had for paints (common acrylic paints, alcohol markers) have the disadvantage that they don't stick well to hot melt glue. Something in the formula for glass paints makes them stick to hot melt glue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and let me tell you how &lt;em&gt;utterly horrible&lt;/em&gt; my &amp;quot;flames&amp;quot; look... If you really want to create something like in your question, you'll need a glue gun with adjustable temperature or work in a very cold environment. I barely managed to make 3 spikes stick up, not to mention add any flame-like details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-08-10T14:59:39.233" LastActivityDate="2022-08-10T14:59:39.233" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11216" CreationDate="2022-08-12T16:42:08.283" Score="8" ViewCount="3498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have project in which I want to use epoxy resin. I want to get a white non-transparent color, pretty solid though, and I was wondering if acrylic paint is a good option to mix into the resin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15486" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-08-12T19:31:19.933" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T04:08:21.303" Title="Giving epoxy resin an opaque color" Tags="|material-selection|color|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11214" CreationDate="2022-08-12T19:15:19.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, water-based products and epoxy don't mix well, and normal acrylics are water-based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I'd try stirring in titanium dioxide powder (titanium white pigment). You probably wouldn't need much, and it should be good and strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen white epoxy before, but that was a special technical type.  I don't know if it's available for craft purposes, let alone with the other properties you might need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-08-12T19:15:19.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11214" CreationDate="2022-08-13T02:18:20.410" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Chris H's answer, and titanium dioxide powder is one of the best solutions (it's the go-to white pigment in most things; it's what is likely coloring the white acrylic paint, so you would be adding the color without the problematic acrylic binder).  People do use acrylic paint to color epoxy, and it can work, but it isn't really a good solution.  This answer will be more of a supplement to Chris H's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to note: with any colorant, you generally want to mix the epoxy first, then add the colorant to avoid having it affect the cure.  A slower-setting epoxy will give you some working time before the epoxy starts to gel.  Thoroughly mix the resin and hardener, and give it a minute for the reaction to start.  Then add the colorant and thoroughly mix it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to color epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dye.&lt;/strong&gt;  These are colored liquids that leave the resin transparent or translucent, but they can filter enough light that it is hard to see through.  Some people use food coloring or alcohol inks, which aren't really compatible, but you can add tiny amounts of these and get it to work (not more than a few percent without affecting the epoxy).  Dyes aren't a good solution in general if you need it opaque, and white is particularly hard to do with dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pigments.&lt;/strong&gt;  These are very fine powder that is chemically inert in what you're coloring.  Most pigments used as colorants are opaque, blocking light from passing through.  You see their color from the light that reflects off the particles near the surface.  Most white pigments are mineral compounds, like titanium dioxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pigments used as colorants are ground finer than most powders used for other purposes. This allows a tiny amount to be thinly disbursed and still provide good, opaque color (as well as helping it to stay suspended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that most common white powders you happen to have on hand aren't likely to be good for this purpose, even assuming they don't react with the epoxy or interfere with the cure, and are very fine powders.  Many loose powders look whiter than they actually are, and wouldn't look pure white when used as a resin colorant (for that matter, many clear substances look white as a powder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If good white colorants were hard to come by, there are a few readily available materials that could be used in a pinch, that wouldn't do as good a job.  But titanium dioxide is used in so many things that it is readily available in small quantities at places like Amazon.  If you're going to go the pigment route, this is probably your best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't take much pigment to color resin.  However, using a lot of it won't affect the resin (other than to act like a thickener, potentially turning the liquid resin to a paste or clay if you went wild with the amount).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A safety note: because pigments are ground so extremely fine, they may stay suspended in the air for a long time.  So if you use them, it's best to handle them in an air-controlled hood. Otherwise, wear a respirator or N95 mask to avoid breathing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pigment-based colorants.&lt;/strong&gt;  These are the pigments suspended in a liquid.  Their consistency tends to be &amp;quot;thick&amp;quot;, like glue or paint, or even close to a paste (the higher the percentage of pigment, the thicker it is).   These have the advantage that you aren't working with a messy and potentially hazardous powder, but you generally can't add more than a few percent to the resin without affecting it (which fortunately is enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two kinds of liquids the pigment can be suspended in--ones that are compatible with the resin, and ones that aren't (even though you can get some of them to work).  Acrylic paint is an example of the latter (the liquid is mostly water).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;good&amp;quot; liquids are ones that are compatible with the resin.  Some of the commercial resin colorants premix the pigment with a small amount of resin.  It doesn't take much, so the additional resin is usually in the &amp;quot;rounding error&amp;quot; of the mixture.  Even then, the manufacturers recommend premixing the epoxy in the normal ratio, then adding the colorant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you don't want to mess with pigment powder, pigment-based resin colorant would be a good solution, and that is also readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T02:18:20.410" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-13T12:56:15.363" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a model of a building out of cardstock to use as background for some of my miniatures, I want to have a corridor with a vaulted ceiling butts which up against a curved wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I measure the curve of the wall (Vertical cylinder in the image below), and then draw it out on to a flat piece of card (Horizonal shape), so that when I bend the card round it fits perfectly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The curve to cut it highlighted in red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSOMn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSOMn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only using the 3D image as an example, this is going to be real world hand craft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2022-08-13T18:32:48.783" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T18:32:48.783" Title="How do I create a pattern to cut the intersection between two curved objects?" Tags="|model-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11217" CreationDate="2022-08-13T18:14:42.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the middle part of the last century, I had a mechanical drawing class, even though I had not yet reached high school. One of the skills taught in that class was the development of drawing the intersection of two bodies. I believe this question qualifies in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just about any drawing program will work for your objective. One can use a CAD program with which one is familiar. I use Inkscape (free, multi-platform) but also LightBurn, a laser application (paid, multi-platform) but any line drawing software will do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one has access to precise, accurate drafting equipment (T-square, drafting table, triangles), one can also do this manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key factor is to have orthographic views of the model. If your model is in a contemporary 3D modeling program (Meshmixer?), you can set the views and use a screen capture to create the orthographic images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/WZIDEgmwrOI?t=15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; presents the overall concepts and practice of drafting such a project. I used &amp;quot;manual method drawing cylinder intersections,&amp;quot; even though one of your objects is not a cylinder. It would have been far too challenging to determine proper terminology for the hemi-cylindrical shape engaging the cylinder in the image provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results of the search are consistent with what little I recall from so many decades past. In your project, you'd end up with a drawing of a rectangle representing the face-on view of the cylinder with an arched rectangle centered in the rectangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the result of a rectangle represents a squared view of the cylinder, there's a perspective loss, although I'm not sure I'm using the right terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the search to &amp;quot;sheet metal drawing intersecting cylinders&amp;quot; and discovered a more comprehensive result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Sheet_metal_drafting/Chapter_4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikisource&lt;/a&gt; provides a series of problems and solutions similar to your objective:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dVQzt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dVQzt.png&quot; alt=&quot;Right Angle T-Joint projection&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining the above video with this Wikisource information may give you the background necessary to accomplish your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've created the model, knowing the program in which it was created may be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, Pepakura (not-free, not expensive) provides for &amp;quot;unfolding&amp;quot; an STL file and may be the fastest and easiest option, considering the amount of work required to CAD out or hand draw your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another program for Windows, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.unwrap3d.com/u3d/order.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimate Unwrap 3D&lt;/a&gt; runs US$50 - $60 depending on version. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.unwrap3d.com/u3d/index.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;home page&lt;/a&gt; graphics indicate that it would provide a similar result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJgvH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJgvH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultimate Unwrap screen shot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-08-13T18:14:42.910" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11214" CreationDate="2022-08-14T08:09:09.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glass microbubbles will cause the epoxy to go a diffuse white. These are available from suppliers of epoxy for boat building, as they reduce the density of the epoxy. They are compatible with the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12022" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-08-14T10:09:49.170" LastActivityDate="2022-08-14T10:09:49.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11214" CreationDate="2022-08-15T05:39:36.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add my 2 cents to the discussion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used acrylic paints in epoxy before and had no problem mixing the paint into the epoxy. However, I did have a problem that certain (sugar based) food colorings simply wouldn't mix into epoxy. Your specific case is one of the easiest to manage, but in general epoxy is not an easy material to work with and there are several aspects you need to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You shouldn't mix more than 10% (by weight) of liquid substances into the epoxy or it doesn't cure properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mixing water into epoxy makes it cloudy white.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some paints (especially cheap ones) contain chalk and other fillers. These have a tendency to separate when mixed into epoxy and the heavy fillers sink to the bottom while the light pigments stay suspended.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a consequence of all points above, you should only use high quality acrylic paints in epoxy. High quality paints usually have a pasty consistency (low water content), a high pigment content (able to tint the resin with less added paint) and finer pigments (less likely to sink to the bottom).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be mindful of which paint you use. Most high quality paints come in opaque, semi-transparent or transparent and there should be symbols on the paint tube to show which kind of paint is inside. If you want an opaque resin, you should get an opaque paint to color it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-08-15T05:39:36.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11509" CreationDate="2022-08-15T21:13:41.723" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the following binder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vCGjL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vCGjL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such binders are usually made of a single plastic sheet.  The sheet is flexible and durable as you open/close the binder.  I think they're formed into their U shape by a heat gun.  Such binders are not to be confused with the vinyl binders that wrap a flexible vinyl around a solid thick core of wood or cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;  what kind of sheet this?  Under this question, we may get the following sub-questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are multiple materials that are usually used for the same purpose, what are they, and what are their pros and cons?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's usually the thickness of such sheets?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've done so far:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.binding101.com/resource-center/vinyl-binders-vs-poly-binders-which-is-better&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; seems to say that the material is either &lt;em&gt;polyethylene&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;polypropylene&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11001" LastEditorUserId="11001" LastEditDate="2022-08-15T22:01:47.140" LastActivityDate="2023-02-11T00:50:20.337" Title="What materials are chosen for poly binders?" Tags="|material-selection|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-16T18:52:46.310" Score="5" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IoHmg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IoHmg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image pldescription here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Plastic with metal spokes that extend and contract when handle is turned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15504" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T18:46:58.930" Title="What is this craft tool used for?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11225" CreationDate="2022-08-16T19:50:30.690" Score="4" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this an actual stitch, or am I just hacking together a knot and a running stitch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread needle through the fabric&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the needle through the previous stitch (between the fabric and previous loop's thread)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loop the needle around the thread coming out of the fabric, from step 1, twice to create a knot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the knot tight and repeat the steps a few millimeters away, in a line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(MS Painted graphic for reference)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wjv2w.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wjv2w.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image of described stitch, created in MS Paint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15506" LastActivityDate="2022-08-17T06:38:14.470" Title="Is this an actual, named, stitch?" Tags="|sewing|cross-stitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11222" CreationDate="2022-08-16T19:51:20.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a weaving device and may have a specific name. Even though I've had one in hand, I am unable to find an appropriately specific term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threads for weaving (often for lace) are wrapped in a specific pattern on the pins and the crossing threads are woven in alternating patterns along the radial threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the pattern is completed, the pins are retracted, allowing the work to be removed. Many of these completed items are then stitched into a larger piece, such as doily or tablecloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our makerspace has had a few weavers pass through and this device is common among the varied weavers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2022-08-16T19:51:20.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11223" CreationDate="2022-08-17T06:38:14.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The result looks like a &amp;quot;bullion stitch&amp;quot; or a &amp;quot;french knot&amp;quot; and there's a quicker way to get the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the bullion stitch you wrap the thread around the needle before stitching a short length forward. Ideally the spiral of the wrapped thread is just as long as the stitch length. This stitch is used for things like flower petals or other strongly textured embroidery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bullion stitch&lt;/strong&gt;: (&lt;a href=&quot;https://pumora.com/bullion-stitch-clover-flower-embroidery-tutorial/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://sewguide.com/make-embroidery-flowers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;further tutorial&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAjnv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAjnv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the french knot you also wrap the thread around the needle, but you stitch back into the same hole where the needle came out or very, very close next to it. The result is a small, raised knot that is also used for floral embroidery or just texture in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The french knot&lt;/strong&gt;: (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stitchdoodles.com/hand-embroidery-stitch-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7QRo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7QRo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-08-17T06:38:14.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-19T05:45:56.583" Score="-1" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;When painting a Tamiya 1:48 scale WWII plastic P51B aircraft kit, which parts would you use an Ink on, rather than paint or a wash in order to replicate the picture on the box for the following component&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cockpit interior&#xA;Cockpit canopy&#xA;Wings&#xA;Fusalage&#xA;Guns&#xA;Control surfaces&#xA;Armament&#xA;Pilot&#xA;Landing gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2022-08-24T12:28:55.650" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T12:28:55.650" Title="When would you use an Ink on a Tamiya 1:48 scale aircraft kit?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2022-08-21T09:12:13.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11226" CreationDate="2022-08-19T08:23:40.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First let's look at the definition of some products and techniques used in model painting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ink&lt;/strong&gt; is pigment suspended in a liquid (low viscosity) medium. It can achieve a solid, opaque coverage in a very thin layer, thereby preserving the small details of the miniature. There are some transparent inks, but the default for miniature painting is opaque. As usual, low quality inks may also be translucent because of a lower pigment content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paint&lt;/strong&gt; is usually also opaque, but suspended in a thicker (high viscosity) medium. Depending on the quality (pigment content) you may need a thicker layer to achieve a solid, opaque color, but high quality paints usually can be thinned down to a much more liquid and ink-like consistency and still be opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wash, Shade or Glaze&lt;/strong&gt; originally describes a technique rather than a product, but several companies sell products they call by those names. A wash is a very liquid, very thinned down dark (traditionally dark brown or grey) paint or ink that is applied on top of already painted areas. It's supposed to flow into recesses and leave more pigments there, creating a shadow effect. A shade is pretty much the same as a wash, just in other colors. A glaze is either ink or paint that is very thinned down with a viscous medium to create a transparent paint that doesn't flow into recesses like a wash or shade would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;advantage&lt;/strong&gt; of an ink is the intense color and very quick, opaque coverage of big areas. You could use it as a base layer before adding highlights and shadows.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The &lt;strong&gt;disadvantage&lt;/strong&gt; is that their high pigment content can quickly overwhelm underlying paints, which makes them hard to mix wet-in-wet. They also don't behave well on a wet palette and dry quicker than acrylic paints. If you wanted to use an ink for dry brushing, you would first need to dilute it with a viscous acrylic medium, practically creating a paint from an ink. Most inks have a glossy finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very good comparison can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://tangibleday.com/wash-ink-and-shade-whats-the-difference/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post by Tangible Day&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for realistic scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would use an ink as a base color for my miniatures, especially if I have several miniatures of similar color like skin color, uniforms, banners or cloaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would use an ink to add a highlight of a stark contrast on top of other paint layers. For example, if you want to add a white or yellow highlight on top of a black base coat, you might need a thicker layer of paint, but you can achieve the same with a thin layer of ink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would use paints for most of the painting and especially blending colors. (Mostly because I love using a wet palette, but also because it's easier to create color transitions).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would use paints for dry brushing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would thin down either paint or ink of the desired color to create a wash. Ink is harder to use because a tiny amount can quickly overwhelm other colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say you can easily paint miniatures with paints only, but it's harder to do if you only have inks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-08-22T18:33:49.587" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T18:33:49.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-20T14:25:23.847" Score="3" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for techniques that can be used to make roots or vines that hang down from the ceiling, on a 35mm miniature scale. Mostly the vines themselves, I have the leafs covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kind that a hero might use to swing across a booby trap, or which an eldritch creature might use to walk across the ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For visual reference, the jungle creepers behind King Louie in the ruined temple scenes from the Disney animated version of the Jungle Book, or the creepers that Tarzan swings from in Disney's Tarzan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-10-06T15:05:31.447" LastActivityDate="2022-10-06T15:05:31.447" Title="Technique for making roots\vines for wargaming backgrounds" Tags="|technique-selection|model-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-20T15:06:54.507" Score="0" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a solvent that I can used to remove melted Perspex from tools. For example Perspex that has melted on to a drill bit or saw blade during cutting and then hardened as it has cooled down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would rather not melt the Perspex by reheating it, or chip away at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T06:39:51.407" Title="Solvent to remove melted Perspex from the blades of metal tools?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11229" CreationDate="2022-08-20T20:56:16.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Melted acrylic doesn't bond well to the metal, it's mostly just mechanically stuck in any nooks and crannies, and wrapped around.  You wouldn't have to chip away every bit of it.  If you can get under an edge, large chunks should break away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On something like a drill bit, you can loosen the plastic's grip by squeezing around the caked plastic with pliers.  With a little friction to grip the plastic shell, you can reverse the drill and back the bit out of it, or drill into some wood and the plastic will get pushed off.  Physically removing the hard plastic is usually the easiest and fasted way to get it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use solvent to dissolve it off if you have a lot of solvent and a lot of time, and don't mind dealing with the fumes.  There are a number of readily available solvents that will dissolve acrylic or at least soften it, including acetone or MEK (available in paint departments).  It takes a long time for solvent to work its way through solid acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A solvent that dissolves acrylic will turn it into acrylic goo, so you're trading one problem for another.  Acrylic will go into solution, so all of the solvent will become goo.  Eventually, all of the acrylic on your tools will become soft enough to wipe off with a rag, but it will leave a film behind, requiring another soak in fresh solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solvents have dangerous fumes (fire hazard and not good to breathe), and they will defat your skin, so wear protective gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-08-21T06:39:51.407" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T06:39:51.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-21T16:25:12.387" Score="5" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making some pegs for my music instrument.  I have seen in the market a lot of these pieces under the category of &amp;quot; Acrylic&amp;quot;.  They have a metal rod in the down part inside the acrylic to work as a core where the strings are pulled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I started to work for my first time with epoxy resin to replicate these pegs.  I was wondering, is epoxy resin stronger than the acrylic? Or vice-versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of the acrylic pegs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wy3EY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wy3EY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15486" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-08-21T18:11:12.333" LastActivityDate="2024-02-22T15:06:30.773" Title="Acrylic piece vs Epoxy resin" Tags="|material-selection|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11228" CreationDate="2022-08-21T19:51:19.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for wire core twine in the garden department or a hobby / craft store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not expensive for the amount you get and comes in various materials, thicknesses and colors. Garden departments usually have hemp or sisal twine, which has a more natural look at scale. Craft stores may only have shiny polished twine for basket weaving or similar crafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the wire core the twine will hold the shape you bend it into and due to the fiber mantle paint and glue sticks well to it. Just be careful when cutting the twine or you may ruin your scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are 2 examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Owhdh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Owhdhm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Click for bigger image. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.joom.com/en/products/5ea939101436d40101f6c6d8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV97w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XV97wm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Click for bigger image. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B097XQ4DBG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-08-21T19:51:19.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-22T01:11:44.217" Score="3" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are, from what I can find, two main kind of bobbin lace roller pillows (photos are illustrative, from various listings):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2aimf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2aimf.png&quot; alt=&quot;bobbin lace roller pillow with small roller and domed pillow&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NoRNb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NoRNb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bobbin lace roller pillow with large roller on stand&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there specific styles of lace (tape lace vs straight lace or different regional styles such as Bucks Point vs Russian) that are used on each type of roller pillow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seem videos with people doing straight lace on the first style and tape lace on the second style, but there are so few videos that I can't tell if that's reflective of how they should be used or just happenstance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10650" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T07:30:21.157" Title="Are different bobbin roller pillows specific to different styles of bobbin lace?" Tags="|fiber-crafts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11233" CreationDate="2022-08-22T07:30:21.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a modern perspective, the type of pillow you chose (especially if both choices are roller pillows) is mostly based on your personal preference and working style. Traditionally different styles of pillows were used in different regions, but there isn't one best or worst type of pillow. There are also modern flat pillows with moving parts that act like a roller pillow by sliding the center part up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pillow &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be wide enough for your lace pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be stiff enough that any pin you put in stays where you put it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case of tape lace the lace pattern must be long enough to fit once around the pillow (it can be longer, but cannot be shorter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pillow &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rest at a height that is comfortable for you to work in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be stable enough that it doesn't roll when you don't want it to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally be big enough (in width and circumference) that all bobbins can rest on it in an orderly way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pillow in the first picture has the advantage that you can rest your arms on it while you work and that the bobbins lay vertically. If you work with a whole lot of bobbins, they can rest on the sides as well as the bottom. With the pillow style shown in your second picture the bobbins hang down vertically. When using that with a lot of bobbins, they bunch up and in the worst case they tangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare these two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j4S5F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j4S5F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.kirsten-koester.de/2006/11/01/mein-selbstgebautes-kloppelkissen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PdFiA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PdFiA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.annaberg-buchholz.de/de/meldungen/2021/05/annaberger-kloeppelwettbewerb-2021-wird-ausgelobt.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But these are extreme cases. While working with only a few bobbins, there shouldn't be much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think modern flat sliding pillows are the most versatile for a beginner because you can do flat works like doilies or lace collars on them as well as lace tapes. And they are smaller than most alternatives to stow away or take with you on a trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both styles of pillows in your pictures are traditional forms (in different regions) and have been used for centuries, so you can expect them to have worked well for centuries. The big rolls may also be easier to DIY (again: people have been doing this for centuries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say in most cases the width of the lace is the deciding factor when choosing one of the traditional pillow styles. For narrow lace tapes or small doilies both work fine. But for wider patterns (like a wide collar, stole or curtain) you need a wider roll. At a certain size it just gets more practical to work with one big roll instead of a smaller roll inserted into a wider pillow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T07:30:21.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4139" CreationDate="2022-08-24T04:36:15.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good success with tacky glue.  It works best when applied to a hard surface (so the wood side) and then gently smoothing the felt down onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've only got a small area to cover and the area that would be touching the wall (or floor) is irregular or difficult to reach, superglue also works.  Some caution is required here: if you apply too much glue it might seep through and will then harden the felt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2608" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T04:36:15.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11237" CreationDate="2022-08-24T15:04:50.927" Score="4" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been learning &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wet-on-wet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wet-on-wet&lt;/a&gt; painting by following along with Bob Ross. In his videos he emphasizes at various times that it is important to have really thick paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the paints I am using might not be thick enough because I quickly become a &amp;quot;mud mixer&amp;quot;, as Bob Ross called it, when I very gently try to add a second layer of thinner paint. The rule that Bob Ross suggested was squeezing the tube of paint and checking if you get a long extrusion, but I am not doing that to commercial products in physical store (that is a great way to not be allowed back) and certainly cannot do not in an online store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When shopping for oil paints, how can I check if the paint will be thick enough to do wet-on-wet painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15434" LastEditorUserId="15434" LastEditDate="2022-08-24T15:59:38.650" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T17:32:28.220" Title="How to tell if an oil paint in store is thick enough for the wet-on-wet technique?" Tags="|paint|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11236" CreationDate="2022-08-24T17:32:28.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only have experience with acrylic paints, but I noticed some extreme variations in different paints I purchased in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider anything you can buy at a discounter rubbish and not worth your money. Never buy any paints in anything like a Dollar / Euro store or the like. Also stay away from beginner paint sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommendations from other painters can help you a lot. But you have to be careful that they are honest recommendations and not just sponsored advertisement. The text reviews on different online platforms can also give you valuable information, but you have to take the time and find out which of them are genuine and which are empty words or paid advertisement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you actually go into a craft or artist supply store, you'll most likely notice different paints of the same manufacturer arranged in different categories. Those are usually:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;College&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Study&amp;quot; quality: often big tubs of paint. Cheap in comparison to other options but good enough for art students and hobbyists. These often have a liquid consistency (to make them cheap). One example (by Schmienke) costs 10€ for 200 ml.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Akademy&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Studio&amp;quot; quality: slightly smaller tubes with a more viscous consistency and a higher price tag. This is probably the golden ratio between price and quality you should go for. One example (by Schmienke) costs 15€ for 200 ml.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Artist&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Professional&amp;quot; quality. The production of these involve special technologies to make them smoother and combine the pigments with the binder in a special way. They usually have the highest pigment content and the most viscous consistency. Certain specialty pigments (like semi precious stones) are only available in this category. One example (by Schmienke) costs 8€ for only 35 ml, which makes it 45€ for 200 ml.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to go for &amp;quot;Artist&amp;quot; quality unless it's something you value. You could probably test a few &amp;quot;College&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Study&amp;quot; grade paints and only upgrade to &amp;quot;Akademy&amp;quot; if you still don't get the desired result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When online shopping, it's a lot more complicated. Anything cheap or advertised for beginners is probably too liquid. Some online shops offer pictures of the opened tube, which can be a clue to the consistency. Others advertise the high pigment content or the thick, creamy consistency. As mentioned above, text reviews can contain valuable information, for example if someone complains about the liquidy consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, you may have to try different paints until you find you personal favorite and stick with it. Skip the cheap paints and start in the middle price range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-08-24T17:32:28.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-08-28T06:41:50.970" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that I can do to Das air dry clay to give a firmer consistency. Similar to two part epoxy modelling putty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, is there a plasticizing additive that I can mix in to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make some small scale models with a wire armature, the kind that you would normally do with two part epoxy putty. Air dry clay is too soft for what I want to do (at least at my skill level), but I don't want to use putty due to the quantities required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-08-29T12:04:44.070" Title="Can I make Das air dry clay firmer, like two part epoxy putty, before sculpting?" Tags="|material-selection|material-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11238" CreationDate="2022-08-29T12:04:44.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Air dry clay&amp;quot; is such an unspecific word used for so many different products that it's impossible to tell which one you have or what to do with it. The only sure way to make it firmer is to let it dry for a while (like 30 minutes) and then knead it thoroughly to even out the moisture content. Repeat until you have a consistency you can work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I propose buying a product that is designed for sculpting purposes or make your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store-bought products include the two part putties you mentioned, but you could also use polymer clay (the kind that gets hard when cold and has to be warmed in your hands first) or wax designed for sculpting or mold making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One DIY modeling paste that seems to be very popular is called &amp;quot;cold porcelain&amp;quot;. It has a very smooth texture, which makes it well suited for modelling, but it dries very hard. However, cold porcelain shrinks while drying, so it may not be ideal for your purposes. See recipes and my personal experience in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10688/6316&quot;&gt;this related answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-08-29T12:04:44.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-01T03:48:47.797" Score="4" ViewCount="5329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to fix a silver necklace. It is, however, too thin for me to just add a new link to to join the broken parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it be welded together somehow, or is there some other preferred methodology? It doesn't have to be a high quality fix at all, it just has to be together again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture of the chain is below. It was sold as sterling silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4H4sp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4H4sp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing the necklace and its break&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a close-up of the breakage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P1930.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P1930.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of the breakage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15557" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-09-07T17:13:15.060" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T20:27:41.827" Title="How to fix a broken, very thin silver necklace" Tags="|jewelry|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11228" CreationDate="2022-09-01T14:21:04.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at your question again, I suddenly remembered these toys I used to play with. A search pointed out they're known as '&lt;strong&gt;fuzzy sticks&lt;/strong&gt;'. They are bendable metal wires of approximately 15-20 cm long, and covered in often brightly coloured 'fuzz':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vn6FQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vn6FQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;macro photo of fuzz sticks of the green variety&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More images &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=Neon%20fuzzy%20sticks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;They come in white as well, which might be easier to colour. You can probably find them in a variety of lengths as well. I believe their diameter, the fuzz included, is around 3 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-09-01T14:21:04.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-07T15:17:02.213" Score="5" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of buying a black canvas, I'm going to buy a white canvas and spray paint the whole thing black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting the whole thing with acrylic would not be wise.&#xA;And I think the spraypaint is going to crack or something, is there an alternative or some way to apply the spray paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2022-09-07T16:28:18.697" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T02:08:10.987" Title="Is it safe to spray paint a canvas?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|canvas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10765" CreationDate="2022-09-07T23:31:08.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear View&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's called simply 'rear view'. I know this from attending art school in London. And visiting more than 100 art museums around the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear means 'from behind'. It's somewhat hard to look up, obscured by cars and rear view mirror for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you Google 'Degas, rear view of a dancer' and click images, you'll see about 1 million results, including a painting by Degas with this name:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[https://www.bridgemanimages.com/en-US/degas/rear-view-of-a-dancer-black-chalk-pastel/black-chalk-and-pastel/asset/376536][1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or Google 'rear view of a dancer' you'll see 12.3 million results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2022-09-07T23:31:08.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10959" CreationDate="2022-09-08T00:19:58.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a lifelong artist and owner of a museum display with many thousands of miniatures. I'm going to share the method I would use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably use acrylic for this job, it's quicker drying and easier to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, Google 'mahogany wood bases' and screenshot this to refer to. Have it by you when painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at how the bases have a black line around the top or bottom or both. Observe the colours you can see in the light, medium, and dark areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mahogany has a lot of red in it; to paint something like this I would prepare a palette of scarlet red, maybe crimson red, black, bright yellow, sienna brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint the black line defining top and or bottom of the base, first. Don't fuss - it will be softened by later overpainting. Just paint it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using thin bright red paint, wash over the rest of the object following 'the grain' of the wood. Let your brush strokes suggest wood grain. Let dry or nearly dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip: Use a tissue while painting to take some of the wetness from the brush. You want thin flowy paint, but lessen the wetness by touching brush tip with a tissue while painting. Take off too much paint on the object, with the tissue as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having painted the object red, which will help your piece have the back-glow that mahogany does, lightly overpaint with a browny orange red. Blot as needed with tissue. Brush strokes should follow the grain - go around around base, or across a square one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let dry or almost dry, then paint the somewhat higher areas where the light hits the surface of the base on the top, at one side, a browny orange-red colour (mix scarlet, yellow, and a tiny bit of black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While that is still wet, add a little white to that colour and put that on the very lightest areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let it dry, then overpaint lightly with any of the colours to get the desired effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop before finished - don't labour it - to keep the work fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2022-09-08T00:19:58.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-11T16:59:12.253" Score="5" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to create plans for converting a regular futon frame and mattress into a slide out style sofa bed using the original parts of the futon, an additional iron twin bed frame, and cardboard (including all glues and related materials for strengthening, upholstering and covering the cardboard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this:&#xA;Is it safe to cut into the original futon mattress in order to make it capable of completely folding over itself when converted back into a couch? The mattress feels like it's stuffed with a combination of poly-fill and other recycled fill material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a sewing machine and planned to measure, cut, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;apply fabric glue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, and sew (to reinforce the glue) 2 lines about 4-6 inches apart down the center length of the mattress (one at a time to avoid getting the filling everywhere), so that when it is folded into a couch it can fold over to make the bottom support, and when it is opened as a bed the center cut piece isn't noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My boyfriend is worried that cutting into it and sewing by hand would be too messy and take too long. I disagree since I plan on making everything else first, and doing all of the work on the futon mattress last. We also have 2 foam mattress toppers as well as one of the cheaper toppers with the fitted sheet style edges that I planned on incorporating into the design. The futon mattress offers the most cushion for the bed though. Does anyone else have experience re-purposing an old futon mattress and cutting into it &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; catastrophic disaster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15592" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T14:16:13.003" Title="Is it safe to cut into a stuffed futon mattress?" Tags="|sewing|preservation|cutting|safety|upcycling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11254" CreationDate="2022-09-12T12:28:24.850" Score="5" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been an amigurumi crocheter for a while, so I've never had to worry about yarn weight/TEX, because we have many yarns that are meant for making amigurumis. But recently I decided to make &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-dragon-shawl&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Dragon Shawl&lt;/a&gt;, and I'm having some difficulty to find the right yarn to make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original pattern uses &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/malabrigo-yarn-rios&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Malabrigo Rios&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; yarn, which has a &lt;strong&gt;TEX = 520&lt;/strong&gt;. I live in Brasil, so it's kinda hard to find this yarn here, and it's VERY expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yarn I'm willing to use is made by &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/nouvellando/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nouvellando&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (a regional seller), and has a &lt;strong&gt;TEX = 270&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both yarns are 4 ply (but I think I can order the Nouvellando one with 5 ply or more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm REALLY in love with the Nouvellando yarn colors, but I don't know what to expect as a result if I use it, because its TEX is the half of the original yarn's TEX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use it, will my shawl be half of the original shawl's size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, can I crochet my shawl using two strands of this yarn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original pattern was made using a 4.0mm (G) hook. If I use a 8.0mm (L) hook, will I have a good result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13253" LastActivityDate="2022-09-12T20:15:30.597" Title="What is the result if I use a yarn with smaller TEX than the original pattern?" Tags="|material-selection|crocheting|yarn|crochet-hooks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11252" CreationDate="2022-09-12T18:55:25.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yarn thickness / weight / TEX in combination with the size of tool (crochet hook, knitting needle, etc.) influence the size of the stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your yarn is thinner than the suggestion but you use the same size hook, it will be looser than the original. Since this particular shawl is a filet pattern, the actual dragon pattern might get lost in all the loose stitches. Choosing a bigger hook only increases the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a hook that is suggested by the yarn (which would be smaller in this case), your stitches get smaller as well. If you work according to the original pattern, the finished shawl will be smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That's why there is a gauge given in the pattern:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gauge: 8 stitches and 10 rows = 10 cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means to follow the original instruction you have to make 8 (horizontal) stitches be 10 cm wide and 10 (vertical) rows 10 cm long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do that in 3 ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find thicker yarn. That's the most simple solution but not the one you prefer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make your yarn thicker by using 2 strands at once. My experience with crocheting is limited, because I personally find it too fiddly, but doing it with 2 strands at the same time makes it even more fiddly. I would not recommend this for a beginner. If you're experienced and confident that you can manage, go for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the thinner yarn but make more horizontal stitches and bigger vertical ones until you can reliably create a 10 x 10 cm swatch. If the original pattern asks for 4 stitches to create one filet square, try making 6, 7 or 8 instead for one square. If the patterns asks for double crochets to fill one filet square, try making a triple or quadruple crochet instead. Create a test swatch of 8 x 10 filet squares that is as close as possible to 10 x 10 cm and use the same number and type of stitches for the actual shawl.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage of option 3 is that the stitches are still thinner in diameter, so the overall impression of the finished shawl will be more empty space than yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative hack: make smaller stitches but enlarge the pattern to fit your yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Filet crochet is a pattern of regular squares. The filled squares become the motif (the dragon in this case). If your yarn is only half as thick as recommended, your squares will be about half as big. That means you need twice as many squares horizontally and vertically to create a shawl in the right size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to enlarge the dragon motif is to double it in size. If the pattern asks you to crochet one row with 1 empty, 3 filled and 2 empty squares, you crochet 2 rows with 2 empty, 6 filled and 4 empty squares instead. That changes the overall impression of the finished shawl to more yarn than empty space. It also makes the edges a little more blocky (like a badly pixelated image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To smooth out the edges you need to copy the motif onto a sheet of squared paper, doubling it in size (4 squares on paper for each filet square of the pattern). After doing that, you smooth out the pattern by leaving single squares empty along the edges where filled and empty squares meet in the motif.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this makes it clear: the light blue squares are the ones that should be filled if you simply double the size. Leaving them empty smooths out the contours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v430h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v430h.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2022-09-12T20:15:30.597" LastActivityDate="2022-09-12T20:15:30.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10765" CreationDate="2022-09-13T20:51:17.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Posterior: The back or behind, as opposed to the anterior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.medicinenet.com/anatomic_orientation_terms/definition.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.medicinenet.com/anatomic_orientation_terms/definition.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15600" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T20:51:17.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11222" CreationDate="2022-09-15T15:00:31.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the pins retract when the bottom of the handle is twisted?  If so, They are POM POM makers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T15:00:31.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10157" CreationDate="2022-09-17T01:56:27.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After cleaning eggs with soap and water &lt;strong&gt;(VERY IMPORTANT)&lt;/strong&gt; and sealing one end with hot glue Made the mistake of not cleaning the first 2 duck eggs and color separated and washed off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I filled mine with water about 2/3's way up so they don't crack with expansion.  Placed unglued side up in an egg tray or sitting in cut rings from an empty toilet roll or empty paper towel roll cut in 1/2&amp;quot; circles makes about 12 holders on a big cookie baking pan.  Frozen them for about 30 minutes probably not solid if I cracked them open but 1/2 way frozen probably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then removed the glue off the one end (I forgot to do that and left a white spot on the one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4,  Carefully place them so they don't crack into a 1 part vinegar 6 part liquid food dye solution with spoon the water needs to completely cover the egg or you have to spoon dye over the egg entire 2 minutes.  Water should be soft boiling where they will sink from the weight of the ice. May bob up an down if your boil is too sever and could crack. Just hot enough its going to boil or a very soft boil required. The dye water melts the ice as they are sitting in the dye you pour the water out the unstopped end after dying and have an even dye job. Use Med to Med/low heat to get a soft boil. &lt;strong&gt;Dye for 2 minutes max&lt;/strong&gt; or something breaks down and dye can rinse off or get a separation look and become about 3 shades lighter.  Can do a second &lt;strong&gt;surface dye&lt;/strong&gt; that means egg floats on top no water inside and spoon dye over top constantly for 2 min. and they will darken up a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove eggs with a big spoon or you will leave marks if not careful.  I initially used tongs and left streaks but still pretty can lay on side that is good if putting in a basket. I tried a second dye bath but to no success to solve problem tong marks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first eggs were my sons pet ducks eggs fresh from him and they weren't cleaned with soap only water and all fresh eggs have a natural protective layer on them so they don't rot left out of fridge for a while.  Store bought eggs have that washed off, but I still cleaned them with soap them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left my duck eggs on my counter 2 weeks before I blew out the egg.   But chicken eggs weren't room temp when I put them in the water and took the dye less well maybe chicken eggs just don't dye as easily as duck.  Didn't freeze chicken eggs just filled with water holding my finger over one hole then placing them in dye and they sunk to bottom like frozen ones so you don't have to freeze them.  I dyed them 2 X after 15 minute cool time in between dye jobs and it darkened them a bit but not as much as the duck eggs. I just filled some of the duck eggs full of water too not frozen and they dyed great, so up to you.  Look at all the descriptions on paper towel if you can read them hard to write on paper towels lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15616" LastEditorUserId="15616" LastEditDate="2022-09-17T02:10:54.193" LastActivityDate="2022-09-17T02:10:54.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-19T10:35:30.597" Score="0" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to paint 2 part epoxy resin onto a 3D print to hide the layer lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to do this without it destroying the brush that I'm using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T12:01:28.043" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T12:01:28.043" Title="Using a brush to apply 2 part epoxy resin without destroying it?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11259" CreationDate="2022-09-19T11:10:12.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to rinse the epoxy out of the brush before it cures. The liquid components of epoxy are (as far as I know) all health and environmental hazards, so you'd need to dispose of the rinsing liquid as hazardous waste. And depending on the  liquid that can dissolve your type of resin and the kind of bristles your brush has, it's very questionable that it will survive the procedure and still be usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the simplest solution is to use a disposable brush, a stirring stick, a strip of cardboard or sturdy plastic or a piece of sponge or cloth grabbed in a pair of tweezers instead of a brush. As long as the resin is still liquid, the surface should smooth out regardless of whether you use a brush or something else. And once the epoxy starts curing enough to become sticky, it doesn't matter if you use or brush or not, it won't smooth out anymore.&#xA;After you're done, let the epoxy cure completely and dispose of the brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: there are simpler methods of smoothing out a 3D print. Transparent nail polish achieves a similar effect but is removable after it's dried. Acetone vapor smoothing is a well-established method for ABS prints. And there's always the option of sanding / sand blasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-09-19T11:10:12.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-19T22:25:40.010" Score="1" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the image below you can see an articulated Barbie doll with her body modified with what looks like silicone or some type of phicen material. Does anyone know how to get this look for the doll body, while retaining its articulation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sxTFH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sxTFH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;images showing a Barbie doll&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15624" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-09-19T22:36:05.837" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T14:06:41.640" Title="Barbie body upgrade to silicone/TPE" Tags="|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-09-20T12:34:10.630" Score="3" ViewCount="2038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a display/collage and need to stick some art works to mounting card to then be displayed in a frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is highly like I'll want to rearrange or reuse the works in a different display or arrangement. I need them to be stuck flush to the back card. Which once mounted will be be flush with the glass of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tape, most glue and blue/white tact do not seem appropriate (the have a enough &amp;quot;3D&amp;quot; size to leave a shadow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far the only option I can really think of is getting one of those glue sticks (Pritt Stick in the UK) and apply it very sparingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15626" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-09-20T12:59:50.173" LastActivityDate="2022-10-01T10:45:23.237" Title="How to temporary stick paper/card together so it can be removed later without tearing and too much residue" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|paper|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11262" CreationDate="2022-09-20T14:09:54.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like what you're looking for is a &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;repositionable glue&lt;/strong&gt;,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;restickable glue&lt;/strong&gt;,&amp;quot; or other &lt;strong&gt;temporary glue&lt;/strong&gt;, which are typically available as sticks, liquids, and sprays, depending on your need. They create a lightly tacky layer similar to what you'll find on the back of a Post-It Note, allowing your item to behave in the same manner--sticking where you want it to stick, while being removable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it does necessarily leave a &amp;quot;residue&amp;quot; on the surface to which it is applied, I've never seen any of the ones I've used leave any residue or damage on the other surface, as long as the directions on the product are followed properly. Typically, the glue will specify to wait a designated time to ensure it doesn't transfer between the two surfaces and functions properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2022-09-20T14:09:54.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11270" CreationDate="2022-09-23T10:50:53.143" Score="7" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;After watching several YouTube videos about DIY Silk Screen Printing, I'm almost ready to give it a go. I've built my own wooden frames. I have almost all the gear I need, just waiting for the photo emulsion to arrive today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I just realized that part of the process is to wash out the photo emulsion after exposure to the light. And it just hit me: is this going to ruin my wooden frame? Is there something I should do to the wood &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; applying the photo emulsion and later washing it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there some other recommendation / tip when using wooden frames?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15635" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-09-23T21:47:23.453" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T17:53:32.603" Title="Does washing out the exposed photo emulsion damage a wooden frame?" Tags="|preservation|printing|silkscreen|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11268" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-09-23T21:46:33.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before printing, the mesh is usually covered with a photosensitive emulsion, so that a transparent film with an image of the artist's choice can be transferred to the mesh: the exposed parts of the film will harden the emulsion through exposure to UV light, and the soft emulsion can be washed off, leaving a negative of the image on the mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a squeegee, ink can then be distributed across the mesh and will be pushed through the open parts, resulting in a positive print on the substrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More information:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_printing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on screen printing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/printing&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;printing&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;printing&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;printing-container&quot;&gt;printing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-09-23T21:46:33.343" LastActivityDate="2022-09-23T21:46:33.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11269" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-09-23T21:46:33.343" Score="0" Body="Silkscreen printing, also known as screen printing or serigraphy, is a printing technique in which a framed mesh (the 'silk') is used to distribute ink on a range of substrates. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-09-23T21:46:33.343" LastActivityDate="2022-09-23T21:46:33.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2022-09-23T22:44:17.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking through some YouTube videos on creating one's own screens, it is indeed remarkable how few people consider this, so it might not matter a lot short-term, but if the wood of your frame is untreated, and you're planning on reusing it, I would definitely coat it, as the frame will get exposed to a lot of liquids: not only the photosensitive emulsion, but emulsion remover, water, and a variety of inks, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest treating the wooden frame with a couple of polyurethane coatings to improve its water and solvent resistance.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Another way is to impregnate the wood with (flaxseed) oil to at least give it some water resistance, but the efficacy might depend on the type of wood used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-09-23T22:44:17.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11261" CreationDate="2022-09-26T14:06:41.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no modification of the original body involved in this kind of customization; the person who altered this doll did so by removing the head of the original Barbie doll, and replacing the entire body with an appropriately sized silicone one sold by another company. The level of &amp;quot;articulation&amp;quot; will depend on the type of replacement body purchased, which can range from a full internal skeleton covered by the silicone &amp;quot;skin,&amp;quot; to just armature wire run through a piece of silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swapping bodies is a very simple and common way to modify this type of doll (colloquially known as &amp;quot;playline&amp;quot; as they're intended for children to play with), to improve articulation, proportions, etc. It's typically done by heating the softer vinyl head with boiling water or a tool like a hairdryer to soften it enough to remove the neck plug and placing it on the new body while still soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2022-09-26T14:06:41.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11222" CreationDate="2022-09-27T10:54:45.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently these devices are called &amp;quot;daisy wheels&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;daisy knitters&amp;quot;. They were a novelty in the 1930s (usually made of metal) and had a short revival in the 1970s and 80s (usually made of plastic). The plastic variety was sold under the brand name &amp;quot;knit wit&amp;quot; and another brand name for the metal tools was &amp;quot;crazy daisy winder&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2rz2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2rz2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are similar (modern plastic) tools that have removable pegs instead of retractable spokes that are called &amp;quot;flower looms&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;bloom loom&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stumbled upon the identification of the tool and an example of what to do with it in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/_ULRYpvAnm8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Youtube video by Retro Claude&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a vintage daisy knitter with the original instruction manual with some example patterns provided by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://timdc.pastperfectonline.com/webobject/5A72B944-96FE-4365-B99C-487699106873&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;South Canterbury Museum&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjAavm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjAavm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6we8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6we8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're supposed to create a number of individual daisies with it and then connect them by sewing or crocheting the edged together to form an object like a cardigan or afghan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/129515983/1930s-daisy-top-made-using-daisy-knitter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vintage PDF pattern on etsy&lt;/a&gt; for a sweater that includes these daisies:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwA7n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwA7n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual techniqe and idea seems to be much older and possibly originated in / around Teneriffe. Here's a link to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/cu31924058822986/page/n7/mode/2up&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;free 1904 book&lt;/a&gt; that explains many different styles of Teneriffe lace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-11-09T18:46:58.930" LastActivityDate="2022-11-09T18:46:58.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11262" CreationDate="2022-09-29T20:21:07.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is exactly the purpose of rubber cement.  You can easily peel the two pieces apart, then roll up the remaining cement and flick it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15660" LastActivityDate="2022-09-29T20:21:07.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11311" CreationDate="2022-09-30T07:03:42.557" Score="0" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making a Christmas scene for a classic American home made dolls House using traditional Midwest home crafting skills, it is common to include a holly wreath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name given to green material in the picture below? It consists of short strips of plastic or foil wound into a twisted thread or wire. To simulate holly leaves or fir tree bows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IYunq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IYunq.png&quot; alt=&quot;image&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to a foil Christmas garland that you would put on a Christmas tree, but greatly reduced in size (for image scale, about the size of a US silver dollar, roughly 1.6&amp;quot; diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking about the product created from bound using twisted wire so that it looks like foliage. Not the green strips that it's make from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="15772" LastEditDate="2022-10-25T21:33:56.187" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T20:14:44.843" Title="What is the correct name for the simulated greenery used to make wreaths for doll house furnishing?" Tags="|material-identification|kids-crafts|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11300" CreationDate="2022-10-01T08:15:36.590" Score="2" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make some home-made molds out of two-part casting silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mix both components in equal proportions, pour them into a container with the item that I'm trying to cast (A resin model of prop for a dolls house) and leave them overnight to set in a warm dry place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silicone sets perfectly everywhere except where it is touching the resin blanks. It's firm, has an even color and texture, and has no bubbles in it. Textbook perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it touches the original it is slimy and sticky, and there are multiple air bubbles. It's like there is a thin layer of slime only where the two materials are in contact with each other. There and only there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've cast from this resin earlier this week, and from the same bottles of casting silicone, and everything was great. And it's set everywhere except where the two materials touch so I don't think that I didn't mix the silicon properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using this exact same brand of resin and silicone for a couple of years now and this is the first time that I've had this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, I thought that I'd simply used too much mold release spray on the original, so I tried it again without it, but I had the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first failure I cleaned different sets of blanks using three different methods to determine if there was an external contaminant involved and tried the casting process again..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detergent scrub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alcohol scrub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alkali scrub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exact same problem all three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Elegoo gray resin (one-part, photosensitive UV cure), and Limino molding silicone. I've successfully made two casts using the same bottles less than a week ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2023-01-25T21:20:47.693" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T16:09:10.800" Title="Why are my home-made silicone molds coming out slimy where the silicone touches the thing that I'm casting?" Tags="|casting|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11262" CreationDate="2022-10-01T10:45:23.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use basic low tack masking tape for things like this. It comes off of most surfaces without leaving a mark. If you have a bigger budget try frog tape. Which is used for masking off areas when painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-10-01T10:45:23.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-01T22:38:38.397" Score="5" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this problem is multi-part. I am making a custom emblem for an auto club that is supposed to replace the VW emblem on a grill. Exterior use, obviously. I am making the emblem with a SLA resin 3D printer. Pretty much no other way for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First issue is that every chrome spray paint on the planet isn't chrome at all, but even if you can manage a decently reflective surface, every sealant we have tried immediately dulls the pseudo-chrome finish to a dull grey. Clearly there is some kind of chemical reaction here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intention here is to make things like this on an ongoing basis, so ideally any solution would be one that is not intended for single use things. Like sending a custom emblem out to have it chrome plated for $100. I might have to make a thousand of these, so I'd prefer to be able to spray them and seal them myself for a reasonable per unit cost. I'm not too particular about it being mirror finished or anything, but I am particular about it peeling in the sun, or dulling to flat grey with a sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here had any success with chrome spray paints for exterior use? Or any sealants that work on chrome spray painted surfaces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify, I am in the USA and may need to buy any paints or sealants regularly. I'd prefer to not have to buy from overseas just because of the time restrictions and availability. Waiting a month for a restock is probably not going to work. I'm ok with brush on finishes if they are truly chrome and sealed, but I'd prefer to keep it in the un-psychotic price range. I am aware of alsacorp and their product looks stunning and exterior, but at $90 a can I am not sure I can justify that cost unless there truly are no other products that can handle this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15667" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T17:46:34.013" Title="Are there any chrome spray paints you can use a sealant on?" Tags="|painting|paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11243" CreationDate="2022-10-02T02:00:25.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use acrylic paint just use hot water and water it down before painting the canvas, but spray paint will work also, just hold the can further away than what you would normally when painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15668" LastEditorUserId="15668" LastEditDate="2022-10-02T02:01:31.030" LastActivityDate="2022-10-02T02:01:31.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3273" CreationDate="2022-10-02T02:04:24.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lines and markings all come from brush and stroke used. I can use the cheapest paint possible and unless you knew you would never know. When it comes to detail, taking time, using a brush that you are comfortable with and your stroke is the things that count. The first run might not be what you want and look bad but you always add to it until it looks the way you want!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15668" LastActivityDate="2022-10-02T02:04:24.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11278" CreationDate="2022-10-04T12:28:26.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As fixer1234 wrote in the comments, anything with solvents ruins the chrome paint, so you cannot seal the spray painted object with anything that comes out of a spray can. Many (but not all) chrome spray paints also react with acrylic clear coats. The problem is well known in the Cosplay and miniature communities and among other crafters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the cheapest solution is to apply floor wax / floor polish on top of the completely dry chrome layer. The most recommended brands are Pledge floor wax and Future floor polish. (Sources: &lt;a href=&quot;https://cosplay.com/archive/thread/2oqp4y/chrome-spray-paint-coating-help&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coslay.com&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.statueforum.com/showthread.php?t=133877&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;StatueForum.com&lt;/a&gt;) You can experiment with dipping the object (if the floor polish is liquid enough), applying it with a soft brush or air brushing it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, Alclad made a clear coat specifically for their own chrome paint that doesn't ruin the shine, but that means you're bound to a specific product from a specific manufacturer. The coat is tested in these Youtube videos by &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/rRSD3h0PooU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adam Savage&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/T6JwSYKdK3g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VinceVellCUSTOMS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of none of those solutions appeal to you, the next best option is to try different brush-on gloss varnishes. You should avoid any products containing xylene, toluene or acetone, because those will react with the chrome paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one last tip: For best results many crafters propose applying a glossy black primer underneath the chrome spray paint. It just helps creating an even, metallic shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-10-04T12:28:26.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11278" CreationDate="2022-10-04T20:00:47.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question asks about coating chrome paint, but you really need to take a step back to the chrome finish, itself.  Applying a chrome-looking finish to plastic has always been a challenge.  Before you get to trying to top coat it for protection, it's tough to just get a mirror finish.  If you are able to apply a mirror finish, then you face additional challenges of keeping it that way.  Some finishes will darken.  Some will eventually develop matte areas.  Some will wear away if they get any handling.  Some will degrade if exposed to sunlight.  The need for protection, the type of protection required, and what protective coating is compatible will depend on what you used for the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One approach is to &lt;strong&gt;create the finish using something that doesn't require a protective coat&lt;/strong&gt;.  A few possible ways to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Paint that looks like polished chrome is made using a silver-colored metal dust of extremely small particle size.  If you mix some of that metal powder with a two-part epoxy top coat (designed for exterior use), you may get a polished chrome-like finish that is tough and stable enough to not require additional coating.  This approach is something you would need to research further for precise implementation details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is chrome vinyl wrap that is commonly used on car bodies.  It will conform to the complex curves of a car body, but I'm not sure how practical it would be to apply it to a small emblem with a lot of tiny 3D details and 90° edges on what I assume is a round shape.  Warming the film and vacuum forming it over the emblem might work.  But again, this would take some research and trial.  This video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOdAth82Qm4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to vinyl wrap with chrome&lt;/a&gt;, will give you an idea of how the wrap behaves in normal application on a car body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warming it and vacuum forming it over the emblem would provide more conformity, but it would need to be tried to see how well it works.  Small, inexpensive vacuum formers are available or can be made.  For this application, you just need a vacuum table (a box with a grid of holes that would probably work with a shop vac); the controlled heating needed to almost melt thick sheets of plastic would be too much for this kind of film.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you start with chrome paint&lt;/strong&gt;, Elmy's answer is pretty much the bottom line.  This video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB9wwCyG1dw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Protecting Alclad Chrome - 14 Clear Coats Tested&lt;/a&gt;, compared 14 kinds of clear coats on a specific chrome paint.  The results are probably applicable to other paints.  Acrylic floor polish did one of the best jobs and was inexpensive compared to most of the other options.  But the testing did identify a few other products that were very good or better.  One was a two part epoxy, one was a specific polyurethane top coat, and the others were clear coats designed for this purpose.  Note that the coatings were at least superficially tested for durability by trying to scratch them with a fingernail, but they weren't tested for how the materials hold up to sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, in almost all cases, real durability requires allowing plenty of time for the paint to fully cure before coating it (on the order of a week, sometimes more), and allowing even more time for the clear coat to cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in case you weren't aware of it, most experienced modellers don't spray chrome paint directly on the plastic part.  They start with a base coat of a gloss black paint that bonds with the plastic and dries to a very smooth surface.  The chrome paint is applied to that after it's cured (typically more than a day).  It doesn't take a thick covering of chrome paint over the black to produce a chrome look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main idea I wanted to cover is &lt;strong&gt;something unusual that might be the best solution&lt;/strong&gt;, that I stumbled across in this video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ninpBuzNSxQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chrome Finish on Plastic- Did I Find the Answer?&lt;/a&gt;.  Coincidentally, the application in the video was chrome finishing a plastic hood ornament for a car.  The video covers a number of products that were tested, but the surprising one was something sold as a system for fingernail polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You apply a clear, UV-cure acrylic resin that self-levels to a very smooth surface, and you harden it.  Then you brush on a very fine colored powder (silver was one of the colors in the kit).  A thin layer of the powder bonds to the coating and looks like polished metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The acrylic coating is tough (and immune to sunlight UV).  I don't know how much handling the bonded powder would take before it wears off.  But if it needs protection, my assumption is that this finish would be much easier to protect than chrome paint, with a bigger range of options.  In the video, the author comments that the finish isn't fragile like chrome paint and thought there was no need to add a protective top coat on the hood ornament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possibility is &lt;strong&gt;chrome plating the plastic&lt;/strong&gt;.  I thought this wouldn't be practical at home, but a Russian guy has a video, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZ4wyJvnHNQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Few people know this secret of plastic chrome plating!&lt;/a&gt;, of how to do it with readily available materials that don't involve serious hazards.  I'm not up on my chemistry enough to know what metal actually gets plated onto the plastic.  In his process, the final plating step uses a solution made from stainless steel, and a lead electrode.  I don't know if lead is used so it doesn't bond with all the ions in the solution, and the part gets plated with stainless steel, or the solution mainly serves as an electrolyte, and the part gets plated with lead.  But it turns silvery and that may be all that matters.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author claims the process pulls chrome from the stainless steel into solution, and that's what gets plated.  In another video, he plates an aluminum part with essentially the same process, but uses a stainless steel spoon instead of lead as the electrode.  So the metal plated onto the part probably isn't lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-04T20:36:50.923" LastActivityDate="2022-10-04T20:36:50.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-05T11:02:34.487" Score="0" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making a silicone mold from a generic brand two-part mold-making solution, what impact does it have on the setting process if the mold is left to cure in an area that is above the manufacturer's recommended temperature by 5-10 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, will it become too hard and brittle, or will it set too quickly and warp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2022-10-11T16:08:07.180" LastActivityDate="2022-10-11T21:03:54.163" Title="What effect will it have on silicone mold if you leave it to set and the temperature is too high?" Tags="|mold-making|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11285" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-10-06T15:22:58.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Model building is the process of creating a physical representation of an object or idea. It is used for such purposes as illustrating a concept or intended appearance, prototyping an idea, or replicating an object, at least in appearance, at the same or a different scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Model building can entail a range of crafts, from scale models (of trains, planes, cars, etc.), scenery for board games, model figures or miniatures, to architectural models and matchstick models. It can involve creating a replica from scratch, using materials and components similar to the actual item, assembling a kit of prepared components that yield a result similar in appearance to the actual item, or using completely different kinds of materials with a completely different form of construction to yield a result resembling the appearance of the actual item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sources:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_building&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Related tags:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/miniatures&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;miniatures&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;miniatures&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;miniatures-container&quot;&gt;miniatures&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cutting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cutting&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cutting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;cutting-container&quot;&gt;cutting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;painting-container&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mold-making&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mold-making&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mold-making&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;mold-making-container&quot;&gt;mold-making&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sculpting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpting&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sculpting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;sculpting-container&quot;&gt;sculpting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/adhesives&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;adhesives&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;adhesives&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;adhesives-container&quot;&gt;adhesives&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/plastic&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;plastic&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;plastic&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;plastic-container&quot;&gt;plastic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/wood&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;wood&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;wood-container&quot;&gt;wood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paper&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paper&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;paper-container&quot;&gt;paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/metal&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;metal&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;metal&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;metal-container&quot;&gt;metal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;technique-selection-container&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;material-selection-container&quot;&gt;material-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tool-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tool-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tool-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tool-selection-container&quot;&gt;tool-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-12T23:59:02.533" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T23:59:02.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11286" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-10-06T15:22:58.000" Score="0" Body="Model building is the process of creating a physical representation of an object or idea. Use this tag for questions about model building as a craft, or any aspect of the process, preferably in combination with the tag for the specific procedure your question is about. For questions about miniatures, use the [miniatures] tag instead." OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-12T23:59:02.533" LastActivityDate="2022-10-12T23:59:02.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11284" CreationDate="2022-10-08T19:57:45.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: this answer responded to a different wording of the question, so the focus is different, but it still responds to the question in its current form.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is, &amp;quot;It depends.&amp;quot;  This can be answered in only a very generic way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Silicone&amp;quot; describes a general class of materials.  Within that are various chemistries for curing (e.g., condensation or peroxide), or catalyzing (e.g., platinum or tin), even UV, and wide variations in properties.  The effect of heat is different for different curing/catalyzing chemistries, as well as when and how much heat is used during curing.  &amp;quot;Two-part&amp;quot; chemistry doesn't narrow it down much as that still includes a variety of curing/catalyzing methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat during curing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of heat during curing varies.  For example, with tin-catalyzed silicone, heat has no effect on the cure.  However, excessive heat (and what constitutes &amp;quot;excessive&amp;quot; varies), can degrade the silicone, resulting in lower mechanical properties (whatever those would be in the result).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, the curing of platinum-catalized silicone is directly affected by heat (20-25% increase in cure rate for roughly every 10°C).  Too rapid curing can degrade the physical properties of the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these two examples, the problematic heat range is different, but the effect on both would be degrading the resulting physical properties relative to the characteristics the system was designed to produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't clear whether too-rapid curing of platinum-catalized silicone could leave unreacted components trapped in the silicone; or if so, whether those could migrate out and leave a surface residue like you describe in your question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/11276/why-are-my-home-made-silicone-molds-coming-out-slimy-where-the-silicone-touches&quot;&gt;slimy silicone molds&lt;/a&gt;.  However, properly mixed silicone (that has not expired), will generally cure throughout if given enough time, so I wouldn't place this high on the list of potential causes for your other question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat after curing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is very affected by the chemistry of the silicone, how much heat it is exposed to, and when in relation to the curing process it happens.  But assuming the cure has gone to &amp;quot;completion&amp;quot; (per the manufacturer's instructions), before the silicone is exposed to &amp;quot;excessive&amp;quot; heat, there can be a post-curing effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone doesn't reach full cure in the minutes or hours specified on the product.  It reaches a &amp;quot;mostly cured&amp;quot; state that is good enough to start using it.  The cure continues at a slow rate over a very long time, during which the physical characteristics will change a little.  For a chemistry that is affected by heat, a post cure exposure to elevated heat can accelerate that process to reach the final characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some chemistries produce by-products or residual materials that remain in the silicone after curing.  Some of those materials will migrate out of the silicone over time.  Sometimes, this will change the characteristics.  For example, the silicone may become less flexible.  Also, the by-products may not be good for you, which could be relevant if the use is for a food or medical purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So some silicone products are purposely exposed to heat in a &amp;quot;post-cure&amp;quot; to accelerate that process and get the silicone to its final state and characteristics.  The situation described in the question could have a similar effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What effect will it have?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be no effect, or could be a noticeable effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some kinds of potential effects wouldn't change the characteristics.  Assuming you clean the mold, you might never know whether it was affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the chemistry, the physical properties could change a little.  Any physical characteristic could change, but recognize that some characteristics wouldn't necessarily affect your usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the example changes mentioned in the question, it would have to be hot enough to scorch the silicone, or remain at the upper end of its temperature range for a prolonged period, for it to become hard and brittle.  Warping would not be a likely effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to narrow the range of possibilities, the question describes this as an occupied workspace.  Assuming the temperature is in a range tolerable by humans, the likely outcome would be that any effects wouldn't be very noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update based on modified question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exceeding the recommended temperature, whatever that may be for a specific product, by 5-10°C is not a huge temperature difference.  Since the temperature in the working area is often poorly controlled and inaccurately measured, it is likely that manufacturers build in a little cushion in their instructions so that if user measurements are slightly off, the product doesn't fail.  YMMV on what that buys you for a specific product or chemistry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned earlier, some chemistries are unaffected by any temperature in a range tolerable to human users.  If those materials have a specified curing temperature range, it is because the manufacturer conducted testing in that range and doesn't want the liability for speculating about temperatures they haven't tested.  For those silicones, curing at 5-10°C over the recommendation probably won't have a noticeable affect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as mentioned earlier, some chemistries are directly affected by curing temperature.  For platinum-catalized silicone, for example, a 10°C higher temperature will speed up the cure rate by 20-25%.  If you are already above the recommended temperature range, speeding up the cure that much could affect the quality of the cure and the resulting physical characteristics.  Exactly how that would affect a particular product depends on the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever effects result, if any, the speculated problems of becoming hard, brittle, or warped would not likely be among them for any two-part silicone product cured at 5-10°C above the manufacturer's recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone isn't cheap, and stuff can go wrong for various reasons even when you follow the manufacturer's recommendations.  There is also expected wastage as you perfect your processes and techniques for various use cases.  If you are going to invest in using it, it makes sense to minimize potential issues by working within the manufacturer's recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's your time and money, so if you want to experiment with how a product behaves outside the recommended conditions, have at it.  But recognize that you're working with conditions that are unsupported by the manufacturer, and likely not reliably documented by anybody else who might have tried it (unintentionally or intentionally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the question wording continues to refer to some &amp;quot;generic&amp;quot; two-part silicone, as if that described a specific kind of material.  It doesn't.  Two-part silicones for mold-making encompass various chemsitries.  This question is focused on temperature.  The different chemistries react differently to temperature.  But more important, they have different considerations for what they're compatible with, and what substances will inhibit or affect curing.  That is much more pertinent to using the material effectively, and solving issues that arise.  Knowing what curing chemistry the silicone employs is fundamental to using it successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-11T21:03:54.163" LastActivityDate="2022-10-11T21:03:54.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-12T16:01:09.530" Score="4" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;yesterday I made a vase (shape is like a regular mug without handle) using regular clay. It was my first pottery attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made it using two slabs, one circular for the base and one rectangle rolled for the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as I was working on attaching and smoothing, the bottom stuck to the board and I used a wire to detach it but it didn't cut perfectly and a slice of the base stayed on the board, like 1mm. however both slabs were 4~5mm thick initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for now I've put it in a plastic bag and sealed it. so it should stay wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I make another circle and attach it to the base (by scratching and wetting both)? or will it break in drying and firing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;anything else suggested?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3126" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T04:53:39.130" Title="Can I add more clay to an object for reinforcement?" Tags="|clay|pottery|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11289" CreationDate="2022-10-13T13:45:12.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I have very little practical experience with clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably be easier and more practical to remove the current bottom entirely and replace it with an undamaged one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason is that if the bottom already droops now, you'll have a really hard time reinforcing the bottom without accidentally destroying the entire vase. To create a strong bond you have to kind of massage the new clay into the existing one, otherwise the bond is prone to cracking during the drying or firing phase. That means supporting the damaged bottom from the inside of the vase without accidentally damaging even more of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be easier to create a strong bond around the rim of the new bottom than over the entire surface of the old one. You can even give the existing walls of the vase some additional drying time (but not too dry!) to make them more resilient against bending and drooping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since you already know that the bottom likes to stick to the surface, intentionally make your new bottom thicker and then cut it to the desired thickness when you cut the vase from the table. You can also leave the bottom a bit thicker than desired and then cut it to it's intended thickness after some drying time. I suggest watching some videos of people forming clay dishes to see this precise shaping of a half-dry object. It's far easier than trying to give very wet and malleable clay it's final shape and then getting it to keep that shape without deforming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-10-13T13:45:12.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-14T17:59:29.350" Score="3" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to septic systems and love to do acid etching on glass. Will the acid cause problems with my septic system? Thanks y'all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15726" LastActivityDate="2022-11-18T04:52:53.657" Title="Acid etch and septic systems" Tags="|safety|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="142" CreationDate="2022-10-14T19:30:04.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are smaller crochet hooks as well, and they have a different numbering system. These are often called Steel Crochet Hooks, and are the type of hooks you'd use with crochet thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Metric&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;US&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;UK&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3.50 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;00&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3.25 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.75 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.25 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1 1/2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.10 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;2 1/2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.90 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.80 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;3 1/2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.65 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;7&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.50 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;8&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;4 1/2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.40 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;9&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.30 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;10&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;5 1/2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.10 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;11&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;1.00 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;12&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;6 1/2&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.85 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;13&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;7&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;0.75 mm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;14&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://sarahmaker.com/crochet-hook-sizes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crochet Hook Size Chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15632" LastActivityDate="2022-10-14T19:30:04.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11289" CreationDate="2022-10-15T04:53:39.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most annoying things about clay, is the difficulty in joining it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly spray your item in drier areas to create uniform dampness&#xA;and/or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unwrap damper parts so they dry slightly to be the same dampness as other parts (watch over it!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To join a piece on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Score the base of your item&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply clay slurry (clay mixed with water to form a thick paint like consistency)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the extra piece you want to apply and smooth it on to fully attach&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any air bubbles between new piece and base, will expand during firing, which can disastrously cause your item to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;split&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;even, explode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So try to avoid air bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experience (mine) A level Pottery, grade B, UK.&#xA;Lifelong artist&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T04:53:39.130" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11275" CreationDate="2022-10-15T05:14:23.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;miniature Christmas leaf ribbon trim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one includes tiny fir, mini holly and even green snowflake trim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you might also like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;miniature Christmas leaf trim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;miniature Christmas leaf ribbon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaf ribbon trim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other kinds of leaves like oak etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T05:14:23.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11143" CreationDate="2022-10-15T05:23:57.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hairspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually buy the more eco pump-action ones without propellant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just spray your charcoal areas lightly before you paint them. A few light coats is better than a heavy spray, which can make your charcoal run or spread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test a small area first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always use hairspray for my small to large charcoal drawings, it keeps them very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this method for 45 years without mishap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note - only over spraying has ever caused a mishap&#xA;Also you might need to try a few products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can paint over the hairspray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T05:23:57.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-15T11:36:09.307" Score="2" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I worked with watercolour I could leave wet paint on the ceramic palette, let it dry, come back to it days later, apply water and pick up where I left off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do the same with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.winsornewton.com/row/graphic-art/inks/drawing-inks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Winsor &amp;amp; Newton drawing inks&lt;/a&gt;? If so, what do I use to reactivate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15728" LastEditorUserId="15728" LastEditDate="2022-10-17T15:15:13.037" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T15:15:13.037" Title="Can I leave Winsor &amp; Newton inks to dry on the palette?" Tags="|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11296" CreationDate="2022-10-15T12:47:12.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.winsornewton.com/row/graphic-art/inks/drawing-inks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these inks&lt;/a&gt;, then no, you cannot reactivate them: they're bound with shellac.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This type of ink is also known for its water-resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-10-15T12:47:12.623" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-16T07:58:07.780" Score="1" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image below is made by AI, using Midjourney.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to ask what art style this can be considered.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And which famous artist does such an art style resemble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIfbu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIfbu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MidJourney image showing what seems to be an office scene with many cubicles, some filled with people&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15732" OwnerDisplayName="quarks" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-10-17T07:34:08.327" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T14:44:12.650" Title="What is this art style?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11291" CreationDate="2022-10-17T10:21:45.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is doable if your heart is set on trying out acid etching, you'd just need to be careful about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to work as the site manager for a set of artists studios which were all on a septic system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing you want to be aware of with a septic system is that it's sensitive to what goes into it; that's not just for acids, that's for everything, but that's not your question. Given you can use small amounts of ordinary bleach etc. for cleaning toilets, you ought to be able to do home acid etching, you'll just need to be careful to either neutralise the acid when you're done, or heavily dilute it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to make sure that the bacteria that populate your septic system and keep it running don't completely die off; that the amount of acid disposed won't be too much for the bacteria to overcome. It's what allows you to use bleach to clean a toilet, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some acids can't be used at all, but these aren't the ones you'd use to craft with, so you should be safe with hydrochloric, phosphoric or nitric, provided you dilute it at about 5:1 or higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15514" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-10-17T17:33:03.280" LastActivityDate="2022-10-17T17:33:03.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11276" CreationDate="2022-10-17T12:00:21.073" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem turned out to be the high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raising it sufficiently above the manufacturer's recommended level was &amp;quot;cooking&amp;quot; the silicon through heat rather than curing it through a chemical reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the resin blanks were cold, and were a poor conductor of heat, so the areas that it occupied deep inside the mold cured at a slower rate than the rest of the mold. Hence the slime was uncured silicon mold material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution was to leave the entire mold to cure at room temperature for a longer period of time to allow it to cure evenly, and to ensure that the blanks weren't cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been confirmed through repetition as being the nature of the problem that was being experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2023-01-27T16:09:10.800" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T16:09:10.800" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11063" CreationDate="2022-10-18T07:16:37.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have number of thoughts on this coming from a design and sewing background…not a crochet person though…but have worked with stretch fabrics and knits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The standard measurements that you have mentioned above all relate to girth.  And in commercial patterns, there are formulas which account for girth and height when grading a pattern down to a smaller size or up to a larger size based on statistical averages…but bodies are anything but standard which is why they have lengthening and shortening lines on these patterns.  It is also to be noted that after a certain size, the vertical adjustments in the grading formula are not as large, or they would be designing clothes for exceptionally tall women.  The measurements that you need to consider should be based on distances between your girth measurements.  So from bust to waist, from waist to hip, from bust to shoulder/neck base, crotch circumference which includes possible back and front variations (some bums are bigger than tummies and vice versa).  There are diagonal measurements from centre front waist to bust point and a whole slew of others to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following images suggest on a draft for a woven garment a number of measurements to take into consideration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSneY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSneY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Draft of Fitted Bodice Front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xligi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xligi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Draft of Fitted Bodice Back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Draft of Fitted Bodice Front&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Draft of Fitted Bodice Back&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From experience with two-way stretch patterns, it is of note that a wider, shorter body may fit the same pattern size as a taller, skinnier body because of the vertical and horizontal stretch… this is the reason pantyhose are marketed with height and weight sizing which occasionally does not actually work…&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So the next thing to contemplate is how much stretch your crochet stitches have across and down as this is also going to affect fit and who it will fit.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It may be necessary to have certain stitches in areas for coverage that do not stretch and a different type or arrangement (lacier, net-like) in some of the other areas to allow for some give to help with fitting a wider range of clients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A long while back, I was able to get my hands of a clear fine stretch “yarn” (came on a spool) that could be added in on a knitting machine at the ribbing to help with recovery of the ribbing.  It may be necessary to either include this in some areas to allow more stretch in certain areas to also fit a wider range of client.  This fibre might not stand up to chlorine in pools though…which leads to another consideration…the end use of the garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As one of the stars in Laverne and Shirley once asked about a pocket hankie… ”Is it for showin’ or for blowin’?” Will the swimwear be worn for show and not go near water or will they be used for actually swimming? The yarn used will need to have certain qualities if worn to be wet, in salt or in chlorine. Some fibres behave differently when wet and some dyes will be affected by chemicals found in the ocean or in the pool. These factors will also affect fit when dry and when wet. You may need to source your yarn and really get to know its qualities and just work with one type only so that you are not dealing with a multitude of variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Random thought: Lycra can be sliced into narrow widths (how narrow is too narrow?), stretched a little, and will curl along the length and could be used as yarn…?  Might solve some fitting problems…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15736" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-10-18T09:10:55.960" LastActivityDate="2022-10-18T09:10:55.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2022-10-19T06:02:29.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll venture out and call it &lt;strong&gt;abstract art&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abstract_art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; gives this definition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abstract art uses visual language of shape, form, color and line to create a composition which may exist with a degree of independence from visual references in the world.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;[...]&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Abstraction indicates a departure from reality in depiction of imagery in art&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We see a 3-dimensional grid shape and some human-shaped blobs and this image is independent of anything that exists in the real world. Granted, it is much less abstract than most works of human artists. When speaking about &amp;quot;abstract art&amp;quot;, most people think about a level of abstraction that results in only lines or geometric shapes. This AI-created work has a much lower level of abstraction where humans are condensed into an oval torso and a round head with painted-on eyes (comparable to a puppet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a way that makes complete sense and reflects how imaging AI works: it is fed with a high number of real world images and is told to &lt;em&gt;abstract&lt;/em&gt; new images from the data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-10-19T13:44:15.180" LastActivityDate="2022-10-19T13:44:15.180" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2022-10-19T20:43:48.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The art piece itself seems as though it would be a digital illustration of a busy work, specifically cubicle, environment. The cubicles are symmetrical, but the humans are asymmetrical. It leans less to abstraction, and more to a digital illustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elmy replied that it is abstract. Although it has some abstract components in the piece, it still is based in reality, like the fact that it looks like a work style environment. It still is based in reality, at least in the sense of the second description of what abstract art means. I think the image pulls together more than abstraction with objects and shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to point out a key feature is that it has a Lego-style quality to it, or at least in its essence has a similar characteristic to it. I'm also reminded of when I was a child, those little figurines such as the Polly Pocket in the early 1990's. They were little figurines with a body and head that snapped together to create a humanoid doll made of plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might actually be multiple questions because what art style it is and what artists it most resembles are two entirely different questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing about AI art is that it comes up with images that have never been created before, based on similar images it has seen before. So unless the software prompts for the artist style so the software can emulate it specifically, there wouldn't be an answer to the question of what artist is similar in style.  For example, &amp;quot;Office cubicle environment made in Lego's in the style of [Blank]&amp;quot; would not be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-20T00:16:42.033" LastActivityDate="2022-10-20T00:16:42.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11307" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-10-21T02:19:57.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/painting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;painting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;painting-container&quot;&gt;painting&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paint&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paint&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paint&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;paint-container&quot;&gt;paint&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/acrylic-paint&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;acrylic-paint&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;acrylic-paint&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;acrylic-paint-container&quot;&gt;acrylic-paint&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/oil-paint&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;oil-paint&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;oil-paint&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;oil-paint-container&quot;&gt;oil-paint&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paint-brushes&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paint-brushes&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paint-brushes&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;paint-brushes-container&quot;&gt;paint-brushes&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/staining&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;staining&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;staining&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;staining-container&quot;&gt;staining&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/varnish&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;varnish&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;varnish&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;varnish-container&quot;&gt;varnish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T02:28:00.507" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T02:28:00.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11308" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-10-21T02:19:57.583" Score="0" Body="For questions about a protective or decorative treatment, surface alteration, or coating on an object, including application and material selection, preferably in combination with a tag specific to the material to be finished. Not intended for the meaning of completion processes. For questions about painting, paint, staining, or varnish, use the appropriate dedicated tag instead." OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-21T02:57:03.807" LastActivityDate="2022-10-21T02:57:03.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11275" CreationDate="2022-10-25T15:50:02.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You described this material as &amp;quot;like a garland but smaller,&amp;quot; and Google results for &amp;quot;miniature (pine) garland&amp;quot; seem to return exactly what you're looking for. If you specifically want to make dollhouse wreaths, you can look for &amp;quot;artificial Christmas garland ties,&amp;quot; which are precut to the size of large twist-ties and made of stiff wire. Some of them should be approximately the correct width and length for a dollhouse wreath, but check the exact product for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12906" LastActivityDate="2022-10-25T15:50:02.070" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11317" CreationDate="2022-10-27T02:10:01.100" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;My two favorite mediums are charcoal and graphite, and am asking for some pros and cons between the two. I was thinking like a Venn Diagram type of pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Charcoal Pros:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easily blendable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can go very dark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Charcoal Cons:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It blends very well, but also smears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15777" LastEditorUserId="232" LastEditDate="2022-10-28T16:35:35.507" LastActivityDate="2022-10-29T07:01:14.957" Title="What are the pros and cons of graphite as opposed to charcoal?" Tags="|charcoal|graphite|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2279" CreationDate="2022-10-27T02:19:24.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hair can be hard to draw sometimes, but I think it is very fun! Here are the steps I personally go through to assure realistic looking hair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make a light outline of the general hair shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make ‘pieces’, or several sections of hair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start shading from the darkest parts of the hair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blend with the lighter strands of hair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add details such as flyaway strands, and extra detail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15777" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T02:19:24.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2022-10-27T12:15:43.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A short quote from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.artsupplies.co.uk/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-graphite-and-charcoal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this site&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Choosing Between Graphite and Charcoal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charcoal and Graphite both bring different properties to your work.&#xA;Beginners may find it useful to weigh up the pros and cons of using&#xA;both drawing materials, before settling on one to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Charcoal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much easier to create broad, expressive marks, so may be more suitable for beginners working on a large scale.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It’s matt finish makes it much easier to layer and create the darkest blacks without any reflectivity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because it is less precise it encourages spontaneity, which makes it easier to build up drawings quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great for capturing quick composition ideas, or for use in Life Drawing classes when you need to be able to record things quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is much messier than Graphite to work with. Even if you use Charcoal pencils you will still find that they generate more dust than&#xA;graphite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be more difficult to transport charcoal as it is more fragile and messy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It’s easy to disturb the dust charcoal generates and accidentally smudge or dirty your work. More fixative is required to protect your&#xA;final work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Graphite&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Graphite Pencils are perhaps the first drawing tools you’ll be introduced to as a beginner. They’re simple and easy to use, and most&#xA;people are familiar with them outside an art setting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Graphite isn’t as messy as charcoal, so it is less likely to smudge and much easier to protect (requiring very little, if any, fixative).&#xA;This makes it more simple to work with for new artists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Graphite is more durable and easier to transport than Charcoal, so would be easy to take out on drawing trips and classes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you’re working on a small scale then the precision tip of a pencil is more suitable for rendering small details.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artists working on large scale drawings might find traditional pencils too small – it takes longer to cover an area with a pencil&#xA;than it does a charcoal stick. For example, if you’re attending life&#xA;drawing classes, you might find the precise nib of a pencil too&#xA;restrictive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you’re building up layers of graphite they can quickly become reflective and shiny which can be unsightly in your finished piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reflective surface can also be problematic when you come to photograph your work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T12:15:43.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11275" CreationDate="2022-10-27T20:14:44.843" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer by way of @Esther is pine tinsel. Or to be more precise (X)mm pine tinsel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T20:14:44.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2022-10-29T07:01:14.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the biggest difference between the two is &lt;strong&gt;controllability&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;CHARCOAL&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With charcoal it is easy to set up a &lt;strong&gt;tonal sketch&lt;/strong&gt;. Depending on the quality and type of paper, &lt;strong&gt;it can be manipulated easily, through smudging and erasing&lt;/strong&gt;. Smudging is the only way to really achieve smooth tonal gradations. It is &lt;strong&gt;a quick medium&lt;/strong&gt;, especially handy for approximating lines and broad gestures, and therefore ideal for model drawing, as contours and surfaces tend to change slightly during sessions, and &lt;strong&gt;quick blocking in of the composition and lighting&lt;/strong&gt; is preferable over a detailed description.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Charcoal also is much more inert than graphite, and can be mixed with oils and other paints without having to worry about it changing their properties (excepting, of course, the slight darkening and muddying of hue). That's why it's more often used as underdrawing for paintings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;GRAPHITE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphite (in the form of a pencil), on the other hand, is great for &lt;strong&gt;precision&lt;/strong&gt;. The harder material lends itself much better to being sharpened and &lt;strong&gt;maintaining that sharpness&lt;/strong&gt;. Depending on the paper, precision and erasability can be better or worse, but will usually beat those of charcoal. Pencils can be used more easily with tools like rulers and compasses. Graphite also comes in a variety of tones, that can be used to achieve a broad tonal range in addition to hatching, which requires control and sharpness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphite also comes in blocks and even in powder. With the blocks some of the precision is sacrificed for increased coverage. I honestly haven't found a proper use for these over pencils or charcoal yet.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Graphite powder has very specific uses, that I don't think are necessary to get into here (charcoal can also easily be ground to powder, so that specific form is not exclusive to graphite).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-10-29T07:01:14.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-30T02:18:53.490" Score="3" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recipes for air dry clay often include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Materials to absorb water from ingredients that get blended with high water content.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Materials that swell when wet to add temporary bulk during modelling, and shrink when the water dries to leave a lightweight, porous structure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Materials to add elasticity to make the clay workable while wet and less brittle when it dries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Psyllium husk powder is a water-soluble fiber (it's the primary ingredient of many dietary fiber supplements).  It absorbs a tremendous amount of water.  At low concentration in water, you can make a stretchy &amp;quot;slime&amp;quot;.  At slightly higher concentration, it turns into a rubbery mass.  It seems like a small amount might be a useful additive in air dry clay for all the bulletted reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, materials that absorb a huge amount of water and shrink again when they dry tend to cause cracking if the other ingredients don't form a strong, non-brittle structure.  So success is likely very dependent on the other ingredients it's mixed with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a search to see if anyone had tried it, and had posted either a discussion or a clay recipe, but couldn't find a thing.  It could be that nobody thought to try it, or people tried it, it failed, and they didn't write about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of experimenting with it, myself.  But these kinds of experiments can burn through a lot of time and ingredients.  Rather than reinvent the wheel, or rediscover all the ways in which it might be useless, it makes sense to build on what other people have tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any readers have tried using psyllium powder in air dry clay, does it provide any benefits such as the bullets at the top, or does it fail miserably and is a waste of materials? (And what was the nature of the clay that produced that experience?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-30T03:49:09.800" LastActivityDate="2022-10-30T03:49:09.800" Title="Does psyllium powder improve air dry clay?" Tags="|material-selection|clay|material-making|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11322" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-10-30T05:26:56.333" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-30T05:26:56.333" LastActivityDate="2022-10-30T05:26:56.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11323" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-10-30T05:26:56.333" Score="0" Body="For questions about visual communication involving the marking of public space." OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-10-30T05:26:56.333" LastActivityDate="2022-10-30T05:26:56.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-10-31T21:45:19.267" Score="5" ViewCount="2322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried using gel pens, ballpoint pens, sharpies, markers (although this was an obvious answer) and felt tip pens on colored craft (EVA) foam, but they all seem to smudge or never fully dry. The ink tends to rub off upon touch. Obviously once it dries it does it less so, but I find that it can still smudge or leave imprints on the skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used something that was more effective that doesn't require using paint? The type of lines i need to draw range from hand lettering to thicker lined outlines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15795" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2022-11-02T06:20:27.937" LastActivityDate="2023-12-21T09:24:28.180" Title="Is there a specific type of pen/marker that won't rub off on EVA foam?" Tags="|foam|markers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-01T14:24:23.083" Score="5" ViewCount="5478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cricut Explore Air and do not believe it can cut thin wood. But then again, this is why I am asking the question. Are there certain Cricuts that can or can not cut wood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15804" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-05T07:59:54.247" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T19:34:08.250" Title="Which Cricut cuts wood?" Tags="|wood|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11325" CreationDate="2022-11-01T16:55:31.040" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/RIqPFAnzrZg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; only the Cricut Maker and Explorer are able to cut wood and only very thin wood of 1/16th of an inch or 1.5 mm or thinner. You also need to use very soft wood like Balsa or Bass. Since wood veneers are even thinner than wood sheets, you can cut these as well and even veneer of harder wood types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot cut any plywood, even if it's thin enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a deep cut blade or knife blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a strong grip cutting mat (the purple one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;painters tape to additionally secure the wood on the adhesive mat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your material (wood or veneer) you also have to set your machine to cut in several passes. More details and the cut settings can be seen in the video linked above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-11-01T16:55:31.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11327" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-11-02T03:03:10.270" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-02T03:03:10.270" LastActivityDate="2022-11-02T03:03:10.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11328" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-11-02T03:03:10.270" Score="0" Body="For questions relating to the optical characteristic of transparency as a requirement or objective. Use in combination with tags for the material or process to which it applies. For questions specifically about the clear plastic sheets called &quot;transparencies&quot;, use a combination such as [plastic]+[transparency] if a tag is needed." OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-02T03:03:10.270" LastActivityDate="2022-11-02T03:03:10.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7901" CreationDate="2022-11-02T10:28:18.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to visit a shop with products for school children (I do not know the &amp;quot;beautiful&amp;quot; way to call it in English). You can find covers for paper notebooks and books and other kinds of things easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a child I used them on paper notebooks, soft-cover books, hard cover books, and for other things. They are made of PVC. If the paint on the book cover has bad quality, the paint &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; stick to the inside of the plastic cover. They might also get destroyed in various ways, but considering their price, replacement s not an issue. Just buy a few of them from the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you will look for the transparent ones, you will notice that they can come in all kinds of colors. Just visit the shops around you and see what is available. If you suspect that the book has some non-standard size, or is very thick, then it might be a good idea to take the book with you while shopping - just to make sure you buy a product of proper size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to find similar items at shops specialized in products to support artists and craft-ers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As a true hack, search for PVC sheets - the kind you find in gardening shops - sold by the meter / mile / whatever. You can cut them in any size you want. To create the &amp;quot;pockets&amp;quot;, use heat or a sewing machine (the sewing step has to be large, to not actually cut the sheet). For heat &amp;quot;gluing&amp;quot;, fold the plastic sheet, apply a sheet of aluminum on top, slide the side of the foot of a clothes iron along the line of &amp;quot;gluing&amp;quot;. The aluminum sheet will prevent the plastic sticking to the hot iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;true, cool&amp;quot; hack is to use kitchen plastic wrap. I have no idea if it will stick to the book - it really depends on the quality of the paper used to make the book, and its finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to number 2 above, there is a way to fold the plastic sheet to create the pocket, without any gluing or sewing - I just do not know how to explain it - I did not use it since I was a child. It was long ago. I forgot when I was a child :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2022-11-02T10:52:36.490" LastActivityDate="2022-11-02T10:52:36.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="375" CreationDate="2022-11-03T03:01:19.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't clear  whether the idea of the magnets was to hold the two hearts together, or these were two cute &amp;quot;refrigerator&amp;quot; magnets.  But it sounds like the magnets, themselves, were adequately strong to do their job; the only problem was keeping them attached to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those magnets are molded as a flat strip.  They're a bit flexible in a long strip, much less so in a short piece, and they want to return to flat.  Whether they were attracted to each other or a metal surface, the magnets were flat when in contact (it's the only way they have enough attraction to hold any weight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were attached to the wood with double-sided tape designed for attachment to a flat surface.  The hearts aren't flat.  So the magnets were always trying to pull away, and the tape stuck to the wood better than it stuck to the magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you glue the magnets tightly to the wood, they won't hold the weight because the whole magnet won't be in contact with the other surface.  Attaching the magnet to the wood needs to be done with the magnet flat and something filling the gaps and contours between the magnet and the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do it that way, the adhesive will need to bond to both surfaces enough to support the weight of the wood (not much), and tugging on it to pull the magnet off the metal surface it's stuck to, but it won't need insane, super strength.  An adhesive that's a bit flexible will do better than one that dries hard, and it won't need as much adhesive strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elmer's wood glue (Joel Huebner's suggestion), won't stick well to the magnet long term, but it might be a strong enough bond for this lightweight purpose.  But it would probably suffer from the same problem as the original sticky tape.  A thick layer could fill the gaps, but it shrinks a lot when it dries, so either it would distort the magnet or pull away from it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thick super glue, also suggested by Joel, will fill small gaps, but is brittle, so it would be susceptible to breaking again.  There are rubberized super glues that fill small gaps and remain a bit flexible.  They would probably work but they're expensive, and overkill for a lightweight requirement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy, mentioned by SF and Matt would probably work, but is overkill for a lightweight requirement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sugru, mentioned by Stephie, would probably be a good solution, but the stuff is expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cheap alternative would be a layer of silicone caulk thick enough to fill any gaps when the magnet is flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going back to how the magnets were originally mounted, they really just used the wrong tape.  There is heavy-duty mounting tape that consists of a thick foam ribbon with aggressive adhesive on both sides.  The adhesive will stay stuck, and the foam adjusts to the irregularities in the contour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Of course, SF's suggestion of attaching a strong, small magnet with a screw won't come off.  If you're going to drill a pilot hole for the screw, just drill a larger diameter, shallow hole, and glue in a small, strong magnet for fancier appearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T03:01:19.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11332" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-11-03T06:16:46.000" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-03T06:16:46.000" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T06:16:46.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11333" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-11-03T06:16:46.000" Score="0" Body="For questions about producing a sharp edge or point on something. Use in combination with a tag for the object, material, or process it applies to." OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-03T06:16:46.000" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T06:16:46.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="375" CreationDate="2022-11-03T20:19:16.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to glue a strong round magnet to something with some thickness, it helps enormously to partially recess the magnet. Drill a hole into which the magnet fits quite snugly, slightly shallower than the thickness of the magnet. Then you can use epoxy, or PVA wood glue (or many other glues). This helps because glues in general are far stronger in shear than under tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the surface of the magnet is below the surface of the host material (your wood) it will hold far less effectively. You can use this to your advantage if you only have too-strong magnets but it's hard to tune the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-11-03T20:19:16.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3645" CreationDate="2022-11-04T09:51:03.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question that asks specifically whether a particular machine will handle the task of cutting a lace design, and fred_dot_u answered that.  The question also asks if there's another way to do it.  Presumably, we're long past the wedding for which the question was asked, but for other readers landing here, I'll mention an alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way this is commonly done is with an embossing and die cutting machine.  A number of companies make them and they typically look similar to this example made by Sizzix (not an endorsement, just an available picture):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ukWcQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ukWcQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;image courtesy Amazon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crank moves a cassette, containing the paper, die, and spacers, through the machine, where pressure pushes the paper into the die and punches out the pattern.  They come in various capacities and capabilities, and the range of prices runs less than the range of prices for the computer-based cutting machines, but they overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The machine characteristics are different in a number of ways, besides the obvious difference that you manually crank one and the other cuts on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cutting machine will cut virtually any design, but you need to tell it how to do that (typically via a downloaded file or something you create on your computer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The embossing machine punches out a pattern with a die, so you can typically only make what you can buy a die for (certain kinds of patterns are popular, so, for example, you are likely to find a lace pattern).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the embossing machine, you buy each die, whereas the cutting machine doesn't cost you anything for a design you make yourself.  Crafters who make varied use of their embossing machine can run up an investment in a collection of dies and embossing folders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The embossing machine is much faster than the cutting machine.  Once it's set up (which doesn't take long), it takes just seconds to crank a cassette through, and the whole pattern is punched out at one time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cutting machine works by tracing each line comprising the pattern with a blade, sometimes many passes.  On a very detailed pattern (like lace), the cutting can take a long time to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The finished item can normally be removed from an embossing machine die without tearing.  With the cutting machine, the paper needs to be firmly stuck to the mat during cutting.  Very fine patterns can sometimes be hard to remove from the mat without tearing, so there can be some wastage after the long cutting time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both kinds of machines can do more than cut or punch patterns.  The embossing machine can also emboss (which, again, is a fast, all-at-once process, limited to the patterns you can buy, although crafters can make simple embossing dies themselves of lesser quality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cutting machines can often also draw, and fancy ones can emboss.  Again, it's based on instructions you provide, and it can be slow (though faster than cutting), because it's done by tracing every line in the pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T09:51:03.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3645" CreationDate="2022-11-04T17:54:28.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer. I have a Cricut, so long as you buy the right cutting blade and have the right thickness of mat (Dependent on the thickness of the paper you are cutting) it will do exactly what you are asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main limiting factor will be your creativity, and ability to use the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T17:54:28.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11324" CreationDate="2022-11-04T17:58:25.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend on what you intend to do with the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any acrylic based paint pen should mark it sufficiently to label pieces or to draw lines to cut later on, but if you want to draw a design (for example, decorating cosplay armour with a pattern), you may be better off cutting vinyl and sticking it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T17:58:25.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11324" CreationDate="2022-11-04T20:36:55.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharpies can be good on plastic (including foamed plastic like EVA craft foam) but they're not always the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I've tested (top row, blue) a Schwan Stabilo OHPen 841 universal permanent superfine and on the bottom (pink) a fine Sharpie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmrAV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmrAV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test: OHP pen vs Sharpie&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On both rows, from the left the mark was&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;made and immediately smudged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;made, left about 10 seconds then smudged (rubbed hard in the case of the OHPen)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gone over 3 times, then smudged (again, rubbed vigorously for the blue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;made and left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gone over 3 times and left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few minutes later, after taking the photo and typing this answer, the Sharpie still smudges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Permanent overhead projector pens aren't available in as many colours as sharpies, but are very useful for marking on many plastic materials, and seem far more photo-stable - I've seen sharpies fade to nothing after a few weeks in sunlight (on plant labels) but I have things that have lasted years labelled with these pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further test with a fatter permanent OHP pen (red, same series) suggests that allowing it to dry for a minute or so is a good idea.&#xA;The finer pen seems to withstand hard rubbing better than the broader one, partly, I suspect, because it marks deeper into the foam (as the pressure is distributed over a much smaller area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do be sure to get the permanent sort, not the water-based washable ones.  Denatured alcohol will take most permanent markers off smooth surfaces if necessary, but on foam would just make a mess&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-11-04T20:36:55.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-05T13:26:18.743" Score="6" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm modifying/repairing a backpack, and have once again encountered a problem that's fairly common with outdoor gear. In this case it's exacerbated by sewing a very thick stack of fabric where seams come together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The waterproof coating (probably polyurethane on nylon this time) leads to a lot of friction for the needle. Friction is worse with thick needles but these tough fabrics break thin needles easily. It's not uncommon for my machine to stall with a thick needle, and even those can break.  When hand sewing the difficulty isn't in breaking through the coating, but increases as thicker parts of the needle pass through the hole. Even the thread is subject to quite a bit of friction (more of an issue sewing by hand than with a basic machine stitch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to lubricate the needle as it passes through the coating? I'm not sure oil is a good idea on such fabrics, but (soapy) water can make the fibres swell and I'd be worried about it dripping inside the machine as the foot compresses the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T17:17:12.147" Title="Friction against the needle sewing coated outdoor (waterproof) fabrics - lubrication?" Tags="|sewing|fabric|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11340" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2022-11-05T20:04:09.770" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-08T03:38:26.487" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T03:38:26.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11341" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2022-11-05T20:04:09.770" Score="0" Body="For questions about the use, and normal end-user care, of small, computer-controlled cutting machines that are often used in a hand-crafting workflow. Includes machines incorporating various cutting methods, i.e., blade (like Cricut and Silhouette), small laser cutters, etc., where the cutting element is guided by a computer to cut a pattern. Include this tag only when use of the machine is the central focus of the question, not supplemental information." OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-08T03:38:26.487" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T03:38:26.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11344" CreationDate="2022-11-07T13:57:07.710" Score="3" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a kiosk that I am building for a small public library, I am considering options for how to decorate it. The library's palette is rather weird, and I am unable to think of a suitable solid color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think a fabric finish would look and feel very nice. Inspired by products such as the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SpuNS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SpuNS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fabric covered VR headset from google&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://time.com/4518212/google-daydream-view-virtual-reality-vr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RgnRp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RgnRp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fabric covered speaker&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pascogifts.com/en/media/cache/resolve/medium/files/vogue-speaker-powerbank-bedrukken-59ca0bc2926a6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is with wear, cleaning, and durability. I intend for this kiosk to last 5-8 years, and the materials will be touched by users' hands but not sat on. Do you have experience with such a project? What should I watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15841" LastEditorUserId="1236" LastEditDate="2022-11-07T20:41:15.380" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T17:20:42.703" Title="Durability of fabric glued to wood/plastic" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2022-11-07T14:44:12.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A problem with current AI-powered imagery is that, since—based on my limited knowledge of their processes—they &lt;em&gt;patch&lt;/em&gt; together new images based on a vast database of existing images (generated during AI training), it is hard to properly place these images within existing (art historical) frameworks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise (and probably to a lesser degree the colours and lighting) reminds me of computer renders. It is similar to what DALL-E 2 sometimes does when you query a &amp;quot;render&amp;quot; of something, likely due to it having processed many path-tracing renders which are known for their noise.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It's too much of an illustration to remind me of a specific artist, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise what comes close is puppet- or stop motion animation, claymation, or similarly hand-made miniature-based scenery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But both renders and plasticine are mediums, not styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your picture could represent a photograph of a claymation setup, but then the question is whether you're looking for the style of the photo or the style of the scene :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, my—very pedantic—answer would be that it is &lt;strong&gt;AI style&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively it could be called &lt;strong&gt;AI/CG (computer graphics) impressionism&lt;/strong&gt;, distinguishing them from formal impressionism, since these 'impressions' differ considerably in quality from human impressions, based, as they are, on &lt;em&gt;generalized existing interpretations&lt;/em&gt;, not on (human) sight.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since not paint but something akin to a clone-brush is being used by these AIs, these 'impressions' not only depart from another type/model of knowledge, but also are expressed through other means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T14:44:12.650" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11342" CreationDate="2022-11-07T15:49:16.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion fabric is not a suitable material for any object that's supposed to last 5 - 8 years while being handled by a large number of people. If you cannot detach the fabric and wash it, it will look and feel dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The durability shouldn't be a big problem if you use synthetic fibers. There are also thick and sturdy upholstery fabrics that should easily withstand being touched for several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleaning &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a problem, especially if the fabric is glued to wood and cannot be cleaned effectively. Natural fibers like cotton soak up the natural oil and sweat from peoples hands and quickly look dirty. Synthetic fibers have a tendency to amplify odors produced by bacteria that live on our skin, so the fabric will smell dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just needs a single child with chocolate or ice cream on their fingers to ruin the fabric if you cannot clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative I suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completely water-proof the fabric after it's glued on. This may increase the cost for the entire project and the feel of the finished object will be very different.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a water-resistant structured paint or even a water-resistant wallpaper to cover the kiosk. Wallpaper poses the risk of bored children trying to rip it off, so it has to be applied with a strong glue instead of usual wallpaper paste. Speckled or structured paint is usually available in home construction stores either in spray cans or in buckets to be brushed on. Please read the instructions on the buckets because you may need specific equipment to properly apply the paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a random example (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.duplicolor.com/product/trunk-paint/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;) of speckled paint in a spray can. The lids give you an idea how the paint looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZsyW.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZsyW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-11-07T15:49:16.870" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11342" CreationDate="2022-11-08T06:57:56.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find the kind of glue to stick to both materials (kiosk and fabric), then it might be an interesting idea. No paint will be able to match the visual feeling of a fabric. And if the fabric has a strong 3D structure (read: upholstery), or if you combine different fabrics... wow!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as already pointed out, cleaning ans wearing will kind of destroy your project over time. The solution would be to apply a healthy layer of transparent coating (or several thinner healthy layers) over the kiosk at the end. Throughout the lifetime, the finishing might then be cleaned and additional finishing reapplied in order to extend the life of the kiosk indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T06:57:56.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11339" CreationDate="2022-11-08T17:17:12.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using spray silicon as a lubricant. Just check to be sure it is compatible with the materials, although the amount that might transfer would be negligible so probably no worries. We used it in the sail loft I worked in for that very same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T17:17:12.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11342" CreationDate="2022-11-08T17:20:42.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using hard thin covering materials like Formica or Linoleum come to mind. They are durable, are typically attached using glue, and come in a wide variety of colors and textures including those that resemble fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T17:20:42.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11278" CreationDate="2022-11-08T17:46:34.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frustration with trying to seal &amp;quot;chrome&amp;quot; paint and other substitutes is that they are just that: substitutes for a more intensive process which is the only way to get the resulting finish you are seeking. If you are going to mass produce them (&amp;quot;...might have to make thousands of these...&amp;quot;) then a more industrial solution is both sensible and in the long run cheaper. And you will get real chrome, like you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this doesn't satisfy the OP question but for the problem at hand creating the real thing instead of using a substitute, at least once you move out of prototyping and into real production, would probably give you the most satisfaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T17:46:34.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2022-11-08T17:53:32.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No. We used wooden frames in a t-shirt shop and they were exposed to both the rinse of the emulsion, the cleaning out of the pigments between uses and the solvents used to erase the screen before the next application of emulsion. They were fine, they just get stained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure the wood was properly sealed in the making of the screen. But even raw wood would be fine as long as they are not soaking in the water for extended periods. The screen will go before the wood rots away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T17:53:32.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2022-11-10T02:52:42.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question asks about a laser cutter, but also asks what kind of machine is normally used and recommendations.  What's normally used is not a laser cutter.  These kinds of items are likely injection molded.  It also might be possible to stamp them out of sheet material in a press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make them yourself on a small scale, with a computer-controlled hobbyist machine of any kind, will be a bit slow, since these all need to trace the pattern, either slowly or many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a laser cutter, as Chris Rogers suggested, and the pros and cons have already been covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be surprised if a hobbyist blade-type cutting machine could handle 1.5 mm PET (whether it would work at all, or if it did, would quickly wear out or break the machine).  I'll provide some context as to why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried it on a cutting machine, but I have tried manually cutting patterns out of PET sheets from the walls of soda bottles using a hobby knife.  It is hard to initially penetrate the material, and then the cutting resistance is much higher than paper, chip board, or vinyl film, the materials the cutting machines are designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My soda bottles had a wall thickness of about 0.2 mm, so the material in the question is 7-1/2 times as thick as that. PET 1.5 mm thick is a hard plastic panel, not a film or thin sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you cut something like a paper product or wood, you cut the fibers.  The fibers aren't stretchy, so you also get some tearing as the blade pushes the two sides apart.  If it's thick, several passes will separate them all.  On a thin vinyl sheet, you cut through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On thick plastic, some of the blade action is just distorting the plastic.  It stretches rather than tears when the blade pushes it apart, and it partially returns when the blade is removed  (it doesn't all stay &amp;quot;cut&amp;quot;).  So even if the machine is capable of penetrating the plastic, it would be likely to at least require a lot of repeat passes after the machine thought it was done, and the edge of the cut would be full of burrs and threads that would need to be cleaned up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make these out of 1.5 mm PETG using a reasonable cost, computer-controlled, hobbyist machine, I would suggest 3D printing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-15T05:29:13.390" LastActivityDate="2022-11-15T05:29:13.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="138" CreationDate="2022-11-10T10:03:56.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that craft knifes of this size are generally reckoned to be disposable, and new are really sharp, but don't hold their edge well.  I prefer a proper scalpel (or second best an X-Acto type) where only the blade is replaced but I've had a few where a scalpel blade was permanently moulded into a plastic handle, and it does seem rather wasteful to go chucking them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a good opportunity to practice with a stone, which is quite easy on a straight blade.  There are a few options, but I'd choose a double-sided (coarse/fine) oilstone, just a cheap one to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest part is getting the tip really really sharp, which is an issue if you're using the tip to cut out stencils (just as an example) but completely unimportant for sharpening pencils (extreme example in the other direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T16:49:55.793" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T16:49:55.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-10T12:03:42.370" Score="6" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an old top loader kiln that was previously used for stoneware (up to 1300°C). The elements needed to be replaced, so I replaced with some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154000554855&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nichrome ones&lt;/a&gt;. I purchased three elements each rated for 3kW, so connecting these up to 240V I should be drawing around 12.5A. However, they keep burning out over 1200°C. Initially I thought it was because they needed to be operated at a duty cycle less than 100%, so I bought some 20A relays and programmed an Arduino to switch the elements on for 4 seconds, then off for 1 second (80% duty cycle), but alas they still fail at around 1200degC. I then tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133152527512&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kanthal elements&lt;/a&gt; and encountered the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ramp rate isn't excessively fast - around 150°C per hour above 1000°C. I've tried cleaning the firebricks to ensure there is no carbon or other contaminants to attack the elements. Am I missing something obvious? I'm going crazy, I've done maybe 20 firings and the elements melt just about every time between 1180 and 1220°C, and I would like to consistently get up to 1280°C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15863" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-16T16:04:26.530" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T16:04:26.530" Title="Kiln elements melting at mid-fire temperatures" Tags="|kiln|electronics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11352" CreationDate="2022-11-10T16:30:47.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nichrome melts at around 1400°C according to Wikipedia, so you'll need careful control to get the kiln itself to 1300°C, including (I suspect) ramping down the power as the kiln gets close to temperature.  Kanthal isn't much better (1425°C, going to 1500°C for some grades in some applications).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use 100% duty cycle at first, then reduce it steadily as the kiln warms up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget that when the air is only a little cooler than the element, heat transfer will be reduced, leading to a hotter element for the same input power.  The same is true for heat transfer into solid parts of the kiln. A hotter element will have a higher resistance, reducing the power at constant voltage, but this is a fairly weak effect in nichrome. If you have a suitable ammeter then (assuming the input voltage is constant), you should be able to estimate the element temperature from the resistance, i.e. from the current. There are simpler, more accurate, and more expensive ways to measure the element temperature of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But switching over a timescale of seconds is likely to be too long. Think how fast a light bulb comes up to full brightness as an indicative timescale.  In 4 seconds it's probably starting to melt already, and it probably only survives a few such cycles.  But switching with a relay much faster than a second will soon wear out the relay.  Naively I'd be looking at either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stage lighting dimmer hardware - the same as household dimmer switches but rated to several kW.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;solid state relays, but I've only used little ones.  They'll switch faster than mechanical relays, and don't wear out when used within spec - but they do dissipate some heat of their own as they toggle so you'll need to take care they don't burn out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I'd look at ramping down the duty cycle as things start to heat up, from 100% below about 1000°C to probably only about 10% with a period of 1s at 1300°C.  This slower heating will also deal with another issue - your thermometer reading probably lags behind the air temperature nearest the element as heat doesn't distribute itself instantly.  Note that your ramp rate may not suffer too much, as it's probably already off for long periods - it's just that the periods it's on for are too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it came with a controller, all this should be built in, for some value of &amp;quot;should&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2022-11-10T16:46:40.050" LastActivityDate="2022-11-10T16:46:40.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-12T08:59:28.470" Score="1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning large quantities of budget arts and crafts tools by hand in a sink is a chore. Is it safe to load them into an ultrasonic cleaner with warm water and just leave it to do its thing, or is it likely to damage them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm primarily referring to bulk packs of brushes, metal/wood clay sculpting tools, silicone sculpting tools, and plastic cookie cutters that can be bought for under $10 in a craft store for a set of maybe 6-8 tools/brushes and used for children's artistic play rather than professional artists tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap, but not single use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-16T16:07:31.237" LastActivityDate="2022-11-16T16:07:31.237" Title="Can an ultrasonic cleaner be safely used on budget art and crafts tools?" Tags="|paint-brushes|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-12T13:56:29.410" Score="4" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked these up at a market. Both the lady who sold them to me and the framer who is framing them said they think they were made by hand. I've done a fair amount of googling to try and find a technique that could be used to make them and come up blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are effectively very thin card with a layer of foiling on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest how they were made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRtsa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRtsa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JiTWr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JiTWr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VccfE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VccfE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDFOU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDFOU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15877" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-12-06T12:09:23.260" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T12:09:23.260" Title="What process was used to make these pieces?" Tags="|technique-identification|foil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="366" CreationDate="2022-11-12T18:16:24.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rust implies they are carbon steel. Although rust removes very little metal ,it will quickly dull a sharp edge. Many modern knifes are stainless steel ( 13 % chrome ) and resist rust well. If you use them much it is worth replacing with stainless. Rust does not weaken or chip steel. Years ago , carbon steel razor blades were coated with platinum or other corrosion resistant material ; this prevented corrosion of the cutting edge and they stayed sharp much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2022-11-12T18:16:24.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11358" CreationDate="2022-11-12T20:20:38.077" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've owned a lot of stainless steel knives and tools of other kinds.  I've never had any of them rust.  I recently bought a set of stainless steel knives and the blades get rust spots every time they're cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5MQb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5MQb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this image, there are spots scattered around the blade (rust and blemishes from previous rust spots), but the significant new rust is next to the handle, along the bottom edge in the unserrated portion towards the handle, and on the top edge above the end of &amp;quot;Dynamic&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These knives happen to be steak knives (and the use they get is cutting food, then they're washed in a dishwasher).  My question is on the metal, since the same metal can be used in tools used in crafting.  Henkels is a reputable brand; I doubt they would make knives from carbon steel and label them stainless steel.  And for comparison of usage, I've always used stainless steel eating utensils that get the same usage and cleaning, and none of them has ever rusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I assume there is something different about the grade of stainless steel that is used in these knives, and some grades are prone to rusting like carbon steel. Obviously, people can't do metallurgical tests on a picture to identify the metal.  I assume that characteristics like rust-proneness of various types/grades of stainless steel are known.  Perhaps people might even be familiar with what type of stainless steel Henkels uses in their knives (through their own testing; Henkels doesn't release that information).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of tools are made of stainless steel, and they get used with wet materials and water cleanup. Tools that rust like this example could require rust removal before use with many art/crafting materials to avoid contamination, discoloring, or other problems.  When buying tools, is there a way to identify whatever this type of stainless steel is, by sight (some visible characteristic or manufacturer information stamped on it), or by asking the manufacturer about a spec, so I can avoid buying tools made from the same stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-12-06T18:24:16.310" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T18:24:16.310" Title="How to avoid stainless steel that rusts?" Tags="|tool-selection|metal|maintenance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11357" CreationDate="2022-11-12T22:18:15.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What causes stainless steel to rust is salt and water. So, if washed and dried it should not rust. I agree Henkels has a good reputation and seems unlikely to use carbon steel. However there are many alloys used in &amp;quot;stainless&amp;quot; cutlery. Most are about 13 % chrome. Alloys with a minimum of 5% Cr are considered stainless, these would be resistant to rust but not as good as 13 % Cr but better than carbon steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No obvious answer. Possibly the cause is something very unusual like a faulty dish washer cycle or brackish water. Maybe Henkels will tell you the alloy they use. A commercial analysis will cost more that the knives. Maybe you know someone with access to a XRF portable element analyzer, they have become common and relatively inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="1236" LastEditDate="2022-11-14T06:44:07.590" LastActivityDate="2022-11-14T06:44:07.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11355" CreationDate="2022-11-13T05:41:18.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I knew these had a familiar look.  I owned one of a similar genre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the 1970s and 1980s, holographic metallic foil became the rage.  It was used to make all kinds of art.  In some cases, shapes were cut out of it to create silhouettes or mosaic pictures, or to add an accent to them. But there were three styles related to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one, the holographic foil was used as the background medium, and a picture was printed on it.  Sometimes the foil was also etched with patterns that reinforced the picture detail.  The foil gave the picture a somewhat 3D appearance; not quite holographic, but the picture popped off the background with a sense of depth, and you got the impression that from the right angle, you could see behind things in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One picture that was used for this, a number of times for some reason, was an apparently well known picture of Nell Gwynn's house (the version I owned):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ArR6H.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ArR6H.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second way the foil was used was to etch some eye-catching graphic elements in it, and sometimes elements of the picture, and then print a picture on it that left the graphic portions of the foil visible.  That gave a similar effect as what was previously described, but the foil, itself, became part of the picture.  Here are a few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSFgu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSFgu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source &amp;amp; further information: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/1078529386/vintage-foil-art-picture-eagle-print&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vintage Foil Art Picture Eagle Print Silver and Gold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFbwJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFbwJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source &amp;amp; further information:&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/1203605595/vintage-1970s-silver-foil-art-wall-decor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vintage 1970s Silver Foil Art Wall Decor Piece&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third way the foil was used was to etch the entire picture into the foil and not print on top of it.  That produced examples like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYUbE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYUbE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source &amp;amp; further information: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/1279706812/vintage-80s-gold-spiral-optical-illusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vintage 80s Gold Spiral Optical Illusion Art Vintage Gold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dpi35.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dpi35.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source &amp;amp; further information: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/1261512078/vintage-pisces-zodiac-gold-foil-framed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vintage Pisces Zodiac Gold Foil Framed Art 70's Astrology&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to examine your pictures to see whether they contain a printed image on top of the foil, like the second case, or are done entirely in the foil, itself, like the third case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-11-13T16:52:11.877" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T16:52:11.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11354" CreationDate="2022-11-14T11:37:23.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use ultrasonic cleaners in work quite a bit, and have also used them for cleaning bike parts and tools, so here are some thoughts from that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything made as one part (cookie cutters, some sculpting tools) will almost certainly be fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where one part is moulded over another, or if they're screwed together, probably fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paintbrushes may well suffer, whether crimped with a metal collar or with bristles moulded into the plastic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you should fill the bath with water, and put your tools in an inner vessel (glass jars work well) in which you may use water (with or without detergent) or solvent.  Don't put flammable solvents in the bath itself (unless the instructions explicitly permit this - very rare) and don't get the bath dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that for things like paint dilution matters - whether or not you use ultrasound, a mixture of paint and water can still gum up brushes, so you might find that the ultrasonic bath makes a good start but you still need plenty of rinsing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some loosening of dried-on (but not really stuck) material is to be expected, but you'll generally need to use a compatible  liquid, which could be water, brush cleaner etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-11-14T11:37:23.837" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11366" CreationDate="2022-11-16T21:37:14.657" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on a jumper with a pattern for Christmas. It involves using a few colours. I've been weaving the colours on the back of the work as this was what I saw on YouTube tutorials etc., but the part with the main pattern has gone very thick and lumpy, presumably because there are so many layers of yarn at the back. Unfortunately I can't upload a photo as they keep being over the maximum file size!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to avoid the jumper being so lumpy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15908" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T19:17:12.027" Title="Knitting with multi-colours: why has the piece gone so bulky/thick?" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11291" CreationDate="2022-11-18T04:52:53.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;howlieT's answer is technically correct in isolation, but could lead to problems.  So this answer will supplement it with more context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A septic system is not a drain that goes to a treatment plant.  Waste sits in it for a long time being broken down to the extent it breaks down.  The process relies on bacteria to do the work.  If you make the contents inhospitable, you can kill off the bacteria or reduce their ability to multiply at an appropriate rate to break down the waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the contents sit for a long time, what you put in is cumulative over a long time.  You can occasionally flush small amounts of bleach and that will be diluted enough to not be a problem.  Or you could occasionally flush small amounts of some common acids, and they would be diluted enough to not be a problem.  But that doesn't mean you can safely flush bleach every day, or bleach today, acid tomorrow, and something else the next day.  It all builds up and has a cumulative effect that is greater than each one individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are additional problems from allowing concoctions of chemicals to collect.  For example, acid in combination with bleach will release chlorine gas, which will compound or accelerate disinfection of the needed bacteria.  If you pour a little ammonia-based cleaner down the drain, that will combine with the bleach and create the toxic gas chloramine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't try to list every possible harmful chemical reaction that could result from household (and non-household) chemicals being added to the septic system soup.  The toxic gasses and other reaction byproducts will be in low concentration.  But the problem isn't you breathing the fumes, it's the bacteria living in it and being continuously exposed to the toxins over a long period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, technically, you can occasionally put small, diluted amounts of this or that into the septic system.  But you need to be very cognizant of everything you add, including how much and how often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a practical matter, some chemicals, like what you use to clean the toilets, really have no other place to go.  So the system will collect a certain amount of that.  But there's no good reason to put crafting acids into the septic system.  They can be easily neutralized so they aren't a hazard, and absorbed into a little sand or dirt so it's no longer liquid.  That can be dried out and then safely discarded in the trash.  That costs you nothing, and then you don't need to be concerned with what it might do to your septic system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-11-18T04:52:53.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11364" CreationDate="2022-11-19T19:17:12.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I saw your question my first reaction was, you kept the yarn to tight between the stitches taken with it, which makes that the different sections in that one colour are pulled towards each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you leave your yarn at the back to loose it might get knotted and as such begin to bunch up, but this is much less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can face a bit of extra work, try knitting a test piece where you use only two colours and test out how tight the yarn needs to be in the back. Working with many colours will make the matters worse if you make mistakes with the tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2022-11-19T19:17:12.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7849" CreationDate="2022-11-21T07:28:05.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plaster/Cement Material&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Hard, heavy, and moldable like plaster or cement&amp;quot; sounds like the intent is to cast the items rather than shape them by hand like clay (although there is cement that is moldable like clay, like Sakrete's ShapeCrete).  There are some materials that cure at room temperature and would be strong enough to use for bowls or cups (although more fragile than clay or porcelain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, CementAll from Rapid Set is a type of fine cement often used for casting art objects.  Jesmonite is a high-grade plaster mixed with an acrylic resin, which is much tougher than plaster.  It's used in construction as well as casting art and utility objects that will get handled.  There are a few other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Making it food safe&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem, as Elmy's answer describes, is that none of these are food safe.  You can seal a concrete countertop to make it &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot;, but it isn't the same kind of food safe as cups and bowls need to be when they will be holding food or hot liquids and you will be eating and drinking from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is no kind of air-dry sealer or coating that will be equivalent to a kiln-fired surface in terms of longevity.  Elmy's answer talks about using a food-safe varnish or lacquer.  You could probably give a cup or bowl a food safe surface that way.  The problem is that while those finishes might, themselves, be food safe, they aren't designed to make something permanently food safe in active use.  The cups and bowls wouldn't remain food safe for long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longevity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kiln-fired surfaces basically turn into a kind of glass, which is hard and tough.  If you notice grey stains in the bottom of your coffee or tea cup, those are deposits of metal from your spoon because the surface of the cup is harder than the silverware.  If you don't break or chip the cup or bowl, the surface will stand up to decades of use, utensils, and cleaning, and will still be food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no air dry sealer or finish you can apply that will come close.  What is used to seal concrete countertops soaks into the concrete pores to seal it against liquid penetration, and leaves a film of plastic on the surface.  That makes it cleanable.  If the surface is clean and you drop some food on it, the food will still be safe to eat.  But you can't use the surface to cut food on, that would scratch the plastic film.  And cleaning the countertop and sliding stuff around on it abrades the surface film, so you periodically need to seal it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make cups and bowls out of these kinds of air dry materials and air dry sealers/finishes, you will have fragile cups and bowls that periodically need to be resealed to remain food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A possible solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative that is strong and durable, with room temperature curing, would be to cast them with a food safe resin-based material.  If you use just casting resin, the result would look like plastic rather than porcelain or clay, and it would be much softer.  It would get scratched and abraded with use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can mix in inert mineral material, like sand.  Make it mostly mineral material, with just enough resin to act as a binder.  The result will look very different, closer to mineral than to resin.  It will also be hard and tough, more like rock than plastic.  Corian countertops are a somewhat similar material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to be aware of with these resins is that being food safe requires perfect curing.  Implementing this to produce a food-safe end result would be subject material for a different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-11-21T07:28:05.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-22T10:21:39.497" Score="1" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to Cricut machine. I just tried my hands on one today and almost pulled my hair out. I have a Cricut Maker 3 and have been struggling with the size settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My material is A4 size and the mat is 12&amp;quot;x12&amp;quot;. The &amp;quot;artwork&amp;quot; is a .svg in A4 size. I am just trying to cut a few rectangles out from an A4 paper. However, Cricut insists my material is 33cm x 35cm and my mat 12&amp;quot; x 24&amp;quot;. I can't find any options to set the correct size. I have configured the load type(see attached) but that doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15924" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T07:26:54.353" Title="Cricut detects material and mat size wrongly" Tags="|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-11-23T20:18:35.837" Score="4" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to paint using two airbrush containing different color paints and\or needle sizes. Swapping between them as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I leave one airbrush to sit for too long while I'm using the other the paint dries in the nozzle and it clogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At there any techniques or tools that I can use to prevent this. Or at least to increase the time that I can leave one sitting idle for 10-15 minutes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2022-11-24T21:11:05.607" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T21:11:05.607" Title="Can I stop paint drying in my airbrush nozzle if I leave it to stand for an extended period of time?" Tags="|airbrush|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11368" CreationDate="2022-11-24T07:26:54.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mat and the material you cut on the mat are called &amp;quot;load types&amp;quot; in Design Space (the software for Cricut). Load types include: without a mat, on a mat, multiple ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.cricut.com/hc/en-us/articles/360009504333-How-do-I-change-the-mat-or-material-size-in-Design-Space-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cricut help page&lt;/a&gt; tells us how to chose the load type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you select &lt;strong&gt;Make It&lt;/strong&gt;, a pop-up window prompts you to choose how you will load your materials. Only those options compatible with the size of your design will be available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also tells us that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum cutting area on a 12 in x 12 in (30.5 cm x 30.5 cm) mat is 11.5 in x 11.5 in (29 cm x 29 cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A4 is  210mm x 297mm, which is &lt;strong&gt;too long for your cutting mat&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an important note for Cricut Maker 3 and Explorer 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If your design is too large to be cut on a mat but the right size for a Smart Material, the load type will default to Without Mat. If your design has multiple components that are the right size for a mat or a Smart Material, the Multiple Ways option will be available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That lets me suspect that your .svg file is too big to fit on the mat and the software chooses the &amp;quot;without a mat&amp;quot; setting instead. possible reasons why the design doesn't fit are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's actually supposed to be bigger than you think&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It isn't positioned correctly at the 0 coordinate. The cricit starts cutting in the upper left corner, but if there's a lot of empty space in the .svg file, that tells the cricut to cut more to the right and/or bottom, which can push the design outside the mat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should either try cutting a different design just to test whether that works as expected or edit the .svg file to scale it down and make sure there is no empty space around the actual design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T07:26:54.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11369" CreationDate="2022-11-24T17:07:20.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following advice is actually from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nailsmag.com/392637/prevent-clogging-bubbling-back-and-spitting-with-your-airbrush&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a website on spray painting nails&lt;/a&gt;, but it's the same principle, and seems like a very good way to prevent the airbrush interior from clogging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each use, empty the color cup by depressing the trigger until the paint runs out. &lt;strong&gt;Fill the color cup with airbrush cleaner and spray it onto a paper towel until the liquid sprays clear.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Some airbrush manufacturers also recommend leaving the color cup filled with cleaner between uses and at the end of each day so that residual paint doesn’t dry up inside and clog the gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still don't have any experience with spray painting using a proper airbrush, so other users might have better advice, but this sounds like a good way to keep everything clean and useable. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T17:07:20.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11369" CreationDate="2022-11-24T19:34:21.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you mean by an extended period of time, and it depends on the kind of paint and how fast it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to clogging the nozzle, the paint in the cup starts to thicken.  Its spray characteristics will change as it thickens.  Even if the lid forms a decent seal, there's air in the cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will keep using the airbrush as long as the paint is still liquid and the airbrush can push it out.  Other people clean out the airbrush as soon as they stop spraying, even if they will be using it again soon.  Some people pick a time, like 10-15 minutes and clean it if they expect it to sit longer than that.  Emptying the paint back into a proper container keeps it fresher and you'll get more uniform results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming you're talking about a time short of emptying and cleaning, and longer than a few minutes, what can you do to keep the nozzle from getting clogged?  The main thing is sealing it from the air, preferably in contact with some solvent, to keep it from drying out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the airbrush didn't come with a nozzle cap, make one out of something like Sugru or Oogoo (homemade Sugru from silicone caulk and starch).  It just needs to seal out air and not trap much air under the cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go an extra step by leaving a small clearance inside the cap and stick a little bit of paper towel in there soaked in an appropriate solvent for the paint (water if acrylic).  The cap will hold that in contact with the nozzle and keep the paint from drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to go through all that, cover the nozzle with a piece of tape that doesn't leave any residue (and leave a folded-over end to make removal easy).  Or wrap the nozzle tightly with plastic cling wrap and tape that to keep it from loosening.  You can use the wad of wet paper towel trick inside the cling wrap, just make everything a tight fit so there isn't air in the pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-11-24T19:34:21.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11378" CreationDate="2022-12-03T04:51:31.513" Score="4" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a project that involves permanently connecting two vinyl (PVC) inflatable pool toys like these: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08P3VFYR3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pool Punisher&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if this is possible by using a PVC cement or some sort of chemical weld for PVC? Any particular kind I should look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2022-12-03T08:42:18.390" Title="What is a good adhesive for permanently connecting two vinyl (PVC) inflatable pool floats?" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|material-sourcing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11377" CreationDate="2022-12-03T08:42:18.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to use a different approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The float material&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are adhesives sold for repairing inflatable PVC boats.  They do a great job, on a boat.  But they may not be ideal for a pool toy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-quality inflatable boats are made from a coated fabric.  The fabric provides the strength and the coating makes it waterproof and air-tight.  If they need repair, a permanent repair uses a patch of similar material.  The adhesive makes a permanent bond.  Afterward, you still have fabric for strength, and a waterproof, air-tight surface.  What happens to the original coating doesn't make much difference because it is then just an internal layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moderate-quality inflatable boats can be made from just a thick sheet of PVC.  The seams are typically heat-welded.  If it needs a permanent repair, you would normally use a patch.  The situation is similar to coated fabric.  The vinyl is thick enough that the adhesive can do what it needs to do on the surface and you still have substantial unaffected vinyl below it for strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap vinyl pool toys are made from a relatively thin sheet of PVC.  It has enough strength to not burst.  But whatever strength it has comes from the intact vinyl.  When you glue vinyl, many of the adhesives that make a permanent bond with it affect the physical characteristics of some thickness of it.  With a cheap pool toy, that is likely to be much of the thickness of the vinyl.  So there would be very little thickness of vinyl for strength, and it may be prone to bursting in that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a patch, the adhesive would go to the edges of the patch, so the border of the patch could end up a weak area.  If you glue two of the toys together, each is a patch for the other, but you could have weak areas around the border.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific inflatable you linked to didn't get very good reviews.  Some of the many 1-star reviews describe the material they're made from as cheap, light-weight vinyl, which wouldn't bode well for gluing.  This question asks about permanently connecting them, but the lifetime might not be very long.  And if they're permanently connected and one unit irreparably fails, you lose both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PVC adhesives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shiny PVC in pool toys can be hard to adhere to.  The stuff that works well and retains flexibility generally affects the vinyl.  PVC plumbing cement would make a chemical weld, but it would affect most of the thickness of the vinyl.  It could make it more brittle or weaker.  It might not, but finding out would be an expensive test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some adhesives that bond with the surface but don't affect it to a significant depth.  They're sold as part of a patch kit or separately in tiny tubes.  It would get expensive on the scale of your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternate approach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was my project, just on the basis of the product reviews, I wouldn't risk two inflatables by permanently joining them (even if you could do it inexpensively for the adhesive and at low risk of the adhesive weakening the wall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would tape them together with waterproof duct tape, which you could get in a matching color or a camo pattern.  Apply the tape to the clean, dry inflatables, and do it when you are ready to put them in the water.  Wipe the surface down with alcohol, and inflate them to normal pressure.  The sides will balloon out so you can tape them where they will be in contact when inflated, and you will be applying the tape to the stretched surface (this is much harder to do with adhesive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tape may not last a whole season.  Just apply new tape as needed.  If you deflate them, the stretched vinyl will shrink again.  Repeated deflation and inflation may loosen the tape's grip.  If it comes loose, replace it.  The amount of tape used would be pretty inexpensive, and applying it doesn't take much time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2022-12-03T08:42:18.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-04T20:56:14.603" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to add some material to the chair seen below that will hold up better than the current material that is covering the chair.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The chair is pretty comfortable, so I like to keep it like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just need something for the back and bottom. The bottom of the seat is 20 by 18 inches and the back is 20 by 22 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked online stores for options, but got overwhelmed by all the choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am open to any ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOEyM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hOEyM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-12-07T18:03:48.090" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T18:03:48.090" Title="Covering for office chair" Tags="|material-selection|fabric|restoration|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11379" CreationDate="2022-12-05T07:39:51.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory it's not too hard to make your own custom chair cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost you'll need to measure your chair. Measure the seat and backrest separately and don't forget to measure the thickness of them. These measurements should give you a roughly box-shaped cover that you should draw on a piece of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you'll need to think about closures. How will the box-shaped cover fit over the chair and most importantly: how will it stay on the chair? Do you want to use a zipper? Then you'll need a sturdy one, preferably with metal teeth. Do you want to incorporate a drawstring? that has to be a sturdy cord. Maybe some hooks and bars? Make sure to get the big ones that don't bend under force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lastly, think about where those closures have to go. You can decide whether you want to cover the backside of the backrest or save on fabric by leaving it mostly open (this influences the closures; a drawstring would probably be easiest for this open back). But you'll have to leave openings on the seat cover for the central column and all the levers. Draw a hole big enough for the mechanics in your sketch and where you want to put the closures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this sketch you should make a pattern. Redraw the sketch in full size on some packing paper or a paper tablecloth and don't forget to &lt;strong&gt;add at least 1/2 inch or 1 cm seam allowance&lt;/strong&gt; to all sides. If you want a drawstring closure, add 1.5 inch / 4 cm seam allowance to the edges where the drawstring will be. Don't forget to label each piece like &amp;quot;backrest front&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;seat left side&amp;quot; before cutting the pieces. This helps you figure out how much fabric you'll need for it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a sturdy fabric. I suggest a plain cotton weave from the upholstery or outdoors section of a fabric store (either physical store or online). Especially the seat area must withstand a lot of wear and tear. Artificial fibers like acrylic or poly*something can feel sweaty and uncomfortable in hot weather. Read how wide the fabric is and try arranging the pattern pieces in that width, then measure how much length you need to fit all the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest is simply assembling the pattern from the fabric. My experience with chair covers is that they can be a very tight fit, so I suggest sewing the cover first with the widest stitch length your sewing machine offers. Then test the fit of your cover. If it's too tight, ripping out the stitches is quick and easy. If it fits, sew over the same lines a second time and then finish the seam to avoid fraying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T07:39:51.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11379" CreationDate="2022-12-05T15:08:54.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, you can use whatever fabric you think will be comfortable. Some may experience some additional wear, but you can patch or remake the piece as needed, so with comfort your main focus on the chair itself, you should similarly reflect that on the covering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider your aesthetics as well. Do you want the cover to look professional? Or just be comfortable? Personally, as I don't generally have people looking at my desk chair much (the corners may occasionally appear on a webcam, but the back isn't high enough for more than that), I went for comfort on mine. The cover I have over my chair, which was sewn for its more damaged predecessor, is a very simple construction of a sewn envelope that slides down over the back, and a gathered piece using an elastic drawstring for the seat. I will admit, the construction could likely be slightly better, as the seat cover slides forward a bit--I'd recommend, perhaps, a laced pattern at the underside instead if you went for a similar construction, to prevent it from sliding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using this cover for a very long time (more than 10 years), and the wear on it is extremely minimal. I didn't use a heavy duty upholstery fabric, just basic blanket fleece I picked up on sale. The loose construction allowed me to switch it to my current chair when the old one finally broke down too much to continue using, meaning it even outlived the chair I constructed it for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, the answer you turn to depends on the result you wish to desire and the amount of work you wish to put in; Elmy's answer is a good one, with a more aesthetically pleasing, professional result in exchange for more effort. Mine is the &amp;quot;quick and dirty but still long-lived&amp;quot; version of a solution, and I'd imagine there's other options as well. Good luck to you, whichever path you choose to go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T15:08:54.010" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11387" CreationDate="2022-12-06T22:07:17.007" Score="5" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like a fairly simple thing to do, but I haven't found a single DIY how-to online about making your own tube yarn. I don't mean &amp;quot;t-shirt yarn&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;fabric yarn,&amp;quot; which I have seen many articles about, I mean the stuff from the arm-knitting craze. I'll include images below. From what I can tell, it's usually either a jersey cotton or something like velvet or fleece sewn in a tube with some sort of cable cordage or straight up .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems silly that no one has attempted to make their own, especially since purchasing tube yarn can get expensive, but the materials to make it would be relatively cheap. I suppose it would potentially be time consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I underestimating the difficulty of making your own tube yarn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J60v6.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J60v6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Velvet tube yarn with the cordage or fill showing.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;You can see the seam in some of the tube yarn here, which is what leads me to believe at least some types of tube yarn wouldn't be a custom-woven fabric or anything.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pfGm1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pfGm1.png&quot; alt=&quot;An image showing the cordage or fill inside of tube yarn&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wDM4I.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wDM4I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A close-up image of tube yarn&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15999" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T02:49:05.950" Title="Can you sew your own tube yarn?" Tags="|sewing|knitting|yarn|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-07T06:38:29.650" Score="5" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to create a gemstone tree as a gift for someone. I think I have a good game plan ready as they do not seem too complicated, but based on the tree I already have and how I would like to design it, I don't know what steps to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The below image has an example of what I am looking for. The tree is made of wire, but something coats the main trunk of the tree as well as the roots, giving it a more grounded design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://secure.img1-fg.wfcdn.com/im/80990352/resize-h600-w600%5Ecompr-r85/1881/188186665/Large+Amethyst+Clustered+Gemstone+Tree+on+Amethyst+Matrix+%28The+Protection+Tree%29.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gemstone Tree Exampl,e&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about doing something like this? I was thinking some form of modeling clay, but I have doubts on if it would work how I want it to. The tree I own is similar to the reference image, with the trunk being smooth and almost resin like to the touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2945" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-12-20T20:24:52.310" LastActivityDate="2023-01-13T20:04:44.820" Title="How would one go about creating a &quot;trunk&quot; for a gemstone tree?" Tags="|material-selection|material-identification|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11384" CreationDate="2022-12-07T09:50:45.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me like something that flows, probably from being warm, though there are epoxies that would flow just the right amount before setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The less-than-glossy finish looks almost like hot glue to me, and that's available in black.  Hot glue is slightly soft at room temperature, and dents with a fingernail (though you probably can't try that test). It would be easy to test on scrap materials, which would be a good idea as it's not easy to sculpt with. Rewarming might have been used too, either with an oven or a hot air gun (or possibly even both, using the oven to soften it all and the hot air to melt it locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy black epoxy, or black dye for clear epoxy.  Most epoxies designed to be a visible finish are very glossy, runny, and set rather slowly.  You probably want one with a setting time of a few minutes (but not the 1 minute epoxy glues, they're usually too runny).  So this could be a black epoxy glue (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Epoxy-Adhesives/Repair-Power-5-Min-Epoxy-Metal-25ml-332348-p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;).  Warmer ambient temperatures speed up setting but also make it flow more. When I've used epoxy to coat things with vertical surfaces, I've had to scoop some up at the bottom and move it to the top, early in the setting time. This makes it hard to the quantity right, and you have to stop while it's still runny enough to flow smoothly. Epoxy can't be melted to smooth, once set; any smoothing has to be mechanical and that's not going to work here. Again, test on scrap materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coating is clearly quite a variable thickness, as we can see the shape of the twisted wires in the trunk, but see a thicker layer on the base.  That could have been done in 2 layers.  In this case it looks like a similar material has been used to even out the underside of the base.  If you do this, be sure to use a jig to hold the tree steady as you cast the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T09:50:45.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11382" CreationDate="2022-12-07T21:09:07.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I think I've got it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start with the strip of fabric folded over inside out.  Sew away from you as normal.  Once you've got a few inches sewn, pull the closed section inside the open section, coming back towards you past the foot.  Insert the filling and secure it (clips?). Keep on sewing out, inside out, and turning the right way in and the tube will grow back towards you along the filling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing it by hand it will work in steps: you'll have to bring the edges together to form the seam, sew a bit, pull back towards you, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be possible to have a ring towards the back of the machine, supported from the front, to guide the fabric where it turns round.  Keeping tension on the finished section tube would then mean less stop-starting, and I've seen ways of feeding strips (e.g. grosgrain) aligning the edges that could be scaled up and adapted to feed this strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsTsQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsTsQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch of sewing up tube yarn&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fabric here is red, bright on the right side, dark on the wrong side.  Thread is yellow and filling is blue. You should be able to take both fabric and filling from spools, and the finished tube ends up by your feet.  So you can make it as long as you can source materials&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2022-12-07T21:31:46.537" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T21:31:46.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11382" CreationDate="2022-12-08T02:31:12.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution I came up with is generally similar to Chris H's. The work flow is a little different, so I'll post it so you have some variation to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Supplies&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fabric ribbon:&lt;/strong&gt; The circumference of the tube will be 22/7 times the diameter.  Add about 3/4&amp;quot; to 1&amp;quot; to that for seaming, and that will be the width of the ribbon needed to make the tube.  The longer the ribbon, the fewer joints you'll need along the length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fill:&lt;/strong&gt; As a practical matter, you'll want fill that's already basically in &amp;quot;rope&amp;quot; form since it would be time consuming to form it into a rope as you go, and difficult to make it a uniform density if you're forming it from a big wad.  You might be able to buy fiberfill &amp;quot;rope&amp;quot; on a big reel.  If not, you could use something else for fill.  Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many strands of soft yard.  Since it will be hidden inside, you might be able to cheaply buy some yarn that a knitting supply store can't sell; it doesn't matter what it looks like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bundle of strips of loosely-twisted cloth cut from rags, or odds and ends that a fabric shop wants to get rid of.  Material like jersey, fleece, or old flannel will have some bulk and softness.  But even strips of thinner, flat fabric, like old sheets, will work when they are loosely twisted and then bundled. Stagger where individual pieces start and end, but you don't need to go to great lengths to secure the ends together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic grocery store bags.  Even the flimsy produce bags will have some bulk once they're opened, crumpled, and straightened out again.  Bundling a bunch of those bags works great as fill.  Join them end to end, and stagger the joints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making the fill from relatively short pieces, you can pre-make long ropes so it's ready to use when you make the tube yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;String:&lt;/strong&gt; You need one piece of string or twine that is longer than the first section of tube.  This should be smooth and &amp;quot;slippery&amp;quot; rather than rough twine like sissal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seam the first section of tube with no fill; that gets added in the next step.  The tube gets seamed inside out.  For the first section, use a piece of fabric ribbon that is not the shortest piece.  Fold the fabric ribbon in half the long way with the good face on the inside (you stitch a flattened, inside-out tube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enclose the string on the inside.  So that it doesn't get lost, attach one end of the string to one end of the fabric ribbon in the middle of the width of the ribbon (where the ribbon is folded in half).  Use a few strong stitches to secure the string.  Stretch out the fabric ribbon and string to ensure that the string is longer than the fabric when the fabric is flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stitch the seam to create the (flattened) tube.  The extra width of fabric for seaming will stick out beyond the seam.  The string should be inside the tube but free to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secure the free end of the string so you can pull against it.  So you should have a length of string secured at one end, then running through a tube of fabric and attached to the far end of the fabric tube. Now you're ready to start making the tube yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Making the first section of tube yarn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pull the fabric tube away from the secured end of the string, the tube will turn inside out.  You use this action to capture the fill.  Place the end of the fill at the end of the tube.  Pull the fabric just enough to start it turning inside out.  That will create a little pocket.  Stuff the end of the fill into the pocket.  It might simplify things to secure the end of the fill in the pocket with a few stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then pull the fabric, turning it inside out around the fill.  When the first section of tube is completed, you will have the exposed string running from where it is secured to the start of the tube yarn, then the length of the first tube yarn section (filled and correct side of the fabric out), with the unused portion of the fill hanging out the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detach the string.  You're done with it and you can use it for some other important purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Making subsequent sections&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You make the subsequent sections the same way, using the finished section of tube yarn as the string.  For the second section, use a length of fabric ribbon that is a little shorter than the first section so there is some of the first section sticking out that you can grab.  After the second section, the tube yarn should be long enough to always have some sticking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fold the next section of fabric ribbon around the finished tube yarn, with the wrong side out.  Align one end with the end of the previous tube with the unused fill hanging out.  Stitch the tube closed around the previous section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the fill is hanging out, you will have the ends of the old and new sections, with the new section as a layer on top.  Hand-stitch the two layers together near the edge  to join the sections.  The excess fabric will become hidden on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you pull the new tube away from the start of the tube to turn it inside out over the fill.  There will be a lot more friction.  If you stretch the first section end-to-end, it will get thinner, making it easier to move the outer layer of fabric.  You can work the outer tube along starting from the other end.  Push the far end in the direction of the section joint to create some bunching, and then pull the bunching along, caterpillar-style, until the new section is right-side out around the fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-12-08T02:49:05.950" LastActivityDate="2022-12-08T02:49:05.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11384" CreationDate="2022-12-10T14:35:11.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the looks of your example image, it could be an acrylic paste or gel. Acrylics are cheap, very easy to work with, come in all colors and bond well enough with metal. One advantage is that acrylic gels or pastes stay flexible after drying, so you can still adjust the trunk slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-12-10T14:35:11.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2022-12-12T01:57:16.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not use Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Plus? It blocks oil and water-based stains, no sanding, dries fast, is OK for exterior &amp;amp; is water-based. You can use finish a coat of your choice. Only caveat I can think of is that the sign should be completely dry at the time it’s worked on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I'm suggesting this is that I have used Zinsser as a standby for many/most things that need undercoating before painting--shed &amp;amp; house painting, signs, all kinds of other projects. I am not affiliated with Zinsser in any way, and there are probably many other brands that would work as well, though people in the trades recommend it very often.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I wouldn't use it for artwork, etc., and I would research requirements for surfaces I've not worked on before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16029" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-12-30T19:40:20.253" LastActivityDate="2022-12-30T19:40:20.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-13T04:54:37.170" Score="-1" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on an image AI to translate images into different styles of art. What style is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqbdP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqbdP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16034" LastEditorUserId="221" LastEditDate="2022-12-16T11:42:48.127" LastActivityDate="2022-12-16T11:42:48.127" Title="What art style is this?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11391" CreationDate="2022-12-13T06:48:23.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not everything is art, and not everything is style. Also, different people have different opinions about what &amp;quot;art&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;style&amp;quot; are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see in your picture 2 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some &amp;quot;crazy&amp;quot; filters applied to some image; no art, no style, just digital processing;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;collage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; of the above-mentioned processed pictures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot judge if a collage of images of ambiguous value has value in itself just because collage is &amp;quot;a technique of art creation&amp;quot; (as stated on the quoted Wikipedia page).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2022-12-13T06:48:23.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11391" CreationDate="2022-12-15T22:58:11.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The style of the collage aspect is strongly reminiscent of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andy_Warhol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Andy Warhol&lt;/a&gt;'s work—in particular, his collages, such as &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marilyn_Diptych&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marilyn Diptych&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; and his other brightly colored portrait collages, with similar but varying images of the same person stacked side by side in multiple rectangular boxes.  So it would make sense to describe this work as &amp;quot;in the style of Andy Warhol.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WPvKn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WPvKn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Marilyn Diptych&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warhol died in the 1980s and did not live to see the modern revolution in computer graphics and digital art, but it seems certain that he would have welcomed these developments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warhol is very strongly associate with the style labeled &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pop_art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pop Art&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (and was, most probably, the style's best known practitioner).  However, unless the subject of this portrait collage is a celebrity that I do not recognize, one of the arguably most important elements of Pop Art—the connection with popular, commercial, or &amp;quot;lowbrow&amp;quot; culture—seems to be lacking.  For example probably the most famous of all Warhol's collages of is not of a person at all, but rather of &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.moma.org/collection/works/79809&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cambell's Soup Cans&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.  So I personally would not describe this work as &amp;quot;Pop Art&amp;quot; in the sense that the term was used to describe the works of Warhol (or other artists, such as Roy Lichtenstein or Richard Hamilton).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="221" LastEditorUserId="221" LastEditDate="2022-12-15T23:05:31.123" LastActivityDate="2022-12-15T23:05:31.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11396" CreationDate="2022-12-17T13:46:56.147" Score="9" ViewCount="1280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this old needle, that I found in a box at a car boot sale and cleaned for rust, and I wonder what it is called? It is ~12cm (5&amp;quot;) long, and the eye is large enough that I can use it to sew with something like baling twine, and it has turned out to be very good for an ancient technique called 'nålebinding' (ie. 'needle binding' translated) with thick yarn. The fact that it is somewhat flattened and bent at the sharp end is actually a helpful feature, in my opinion. I'd like to buy some more in different sizes - but what are they called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tppRt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tppRt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11507" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T16:23:29.483" Title="What is this needle called?" Tags="|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11395" CreationDate="2022-12-17T16:19:44.353" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks a lot like an old sail/sailing/sailor's/sail maker's needle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7QKQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7QKQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;A rare and interesting Welsh Sailors or Sail Makers tool kit. A full set of sail makers needles, string and large for penetrating the heavy canvas along with two net making/repairing tools. All houses in an original case.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; The length of the case is 19 cm. &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.antiques-atlas.com/antique/19thc_welsh_sail_makers_tools_sailors_needles__/as223a891&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T16:19:44.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11395" CreationDate="2022-12-17T16:23:29.483" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a leather working needle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLxdz.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLxdz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-large-leather-working-needles-543376326&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones in this picture are 7&amp;quot;/17.8 cm, but are described as 'large'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2022-12-17T16:23:29.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="356" CreationDate="2022-12-21T23:02:43.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;em&gt;The Complete Book of Origami&lt;/em&gt; by Robert Lang (pg 3-4):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a fold becomes more complex, the tensile properties of the paper assume greater importance. ... A more complicated fold (such as the Deer) requires a thin, crisp paper for best results. ... The considerations when choosing a paper are thickness, strength, ability to hold a crease, crispness (how well flat surfaces support themselves) and forgiveness (how much a crease damages the paper). These qualities, however, cover conflicting objectives. A crisp paper gives clean lines to a model but does not lend itself to subtle shaping and gentle curves. Thick paper takes creases better than thin paper, but complicated models, which have many layers of paper in them, will burst at the seams if made from thick paper. &lt;strong&gt;Foil-backed paper&lt;/strong&gt; (wrapping paper) has become very popular for complex folds. It holds creases extremely well, it has moderate tensile strength, and it can be readily shaped. Unfortunately, it has abominable forgiveness—the slightest wrinkle leaves a permanent mark on the surface, and the paper weakens drastically after it has been creased a few times. The shiny, metallic surface is not particularly appealing in many folds, but that problem can be circumvented by folding the metallic side toward the inside of a model. Nevertheless, every model in this book can be folded from foil paper, so you might want to invest in some. It is often sold in stationery stores with wrapping paper. Many art stores also carry it in large single sheets, and you can usually get the thinnest paper there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16055" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2022-12-22T01:23:07.423" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T01:23:07.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11406" CreationDate="2022-12-22T12:23:59.907" Score="3" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our dog ripped out a number of loosely threaded tufting buttons from our mattress and I'm looking for advice on how to repair or replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the loop that attaches them to the mattress:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a34Cs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a34Cs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tufting loop/endpoint?&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the intact &amp;quot;button&amp;quot; looks like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YekuQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YekuQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Intact tufting button&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured I would need a circle template to sew around and then finally attach it to the loop. I'm uncertain about how I would remove the template after I form a circle around it, or how I would finally attach it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be simpler to do it in place around the hook with a curved sewing needle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16100" LastActivityDate="2023-01-19T13:20:16.697" Title="How to repair mattress tufting buttons" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11405" CreationDate="2022-12-22T14:38:20.397" Score="1" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;does anyone know what ceramic tins are made of? I bought &lt;a href=&quot;https://lafortaleza.net/surtidos-navidenos-estepa/dulces-de-espana/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a ceramic tin of sweets&lt;/a&gt; and the tin itself just doesn't feel like the traditional ceramics that I know of. I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://farandaway.co/blogs/the-artisan/types-of-ceramics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a list of different types of ceramics&lt;/a&gt;, but I am just not sure what type of ceramics the ceramic tin I bought belong to. If I have posted the question in the wrong forum, please let me know. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16103" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T15:47:27.750" Title="What is ceramic tin made of?" Tags="|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11403" CreationDate="2022-12-22T15:47:27.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put, the tin you have purchased is &lt;strong&gt;not ceramic at all&lt;/strong&gt;. The listing specifies the material used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;METALLIC BOX 350G&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Ceramic&amp;quot; in the title and description refers not to the material from which the box is made, but to the &lt;em&gt;decoration&lt;/em&gt; on the box:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original design, where the characteristic ocher and indigo tones stand out, which &lt;strong&gt;recalls the most traditional Sevillian ceramic art&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Meticulous illustrations&lt;/strong&gt;, made with the collaboration of master ceramicists, make this container a treasure both inside and out. Mantecados, Polvorones, Roscos de vino*…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Translated by Google Translate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box itself is a standard metal container; it doesn't &amp;quot;feel like traditional ceramics&amp;quot; because it isn't ceramic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2022-12-22T15:47:27.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11402" CreationDate="2022-12-23T06:12:14.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might think of the wrong kind of template. Instead of a disk (paper, plastic, metal), think of a bent wire (not closed / welded; the ends should overlap). You sew the button around it and through the middle piece, until you get the desired shape / size. Then you just remove the wire carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T06:12:14.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11054" CreationDate="2022-12-23T15:23:19.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try to give it more twist, possibly split it and re-twine it. But that will change the way the yarn looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best is just to work careful and make sure you always have the whole of the yarn when you pick up a stitch and when you go round the yarn with the hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T15:23:19.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11119" CreationDate="2022-12-23T15:46:58.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think these items are shapes to make yarn flowers and a kind of lace for which I can not find the name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This search results page (&lt;a href=&quot;https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/184788390935058081/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to pinterest search results&lt;/a&gt;) shows a series of different shapes which each have a set of pins sticking up or out for string to be wound around, going from a stick over the middle of the shape, and then to one on the other side of the shape, forming a flower shape which has all yarn crossing in the middle. That middle is next sewn together, so the flower gets structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When used for that lace method there can be more creative winding and a lot more 'sewing' or embroidery over the yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your templates are up-side-down in the picture, you would work on the flat side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system in these templates seems to allow to retract the 'sticking out' pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2022-12-23T16:41:46.617" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T16:41:46.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2022-12-23T21:09:25.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The machines I used in school had a stitch under that name which was a narrow zigzag, almost a straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy option is to try out the stitch on several kinds of fabric, and see what the stitch looks like and what happens when you stretch the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T21:09:25.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11412" CreationDate="2022-12-23T23:43:48.390" Score="3" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a project I have to cut an acrylic glass rod (diameter = 5mm) into a few small chunks. Then, I have to sand the cut surfaces and polish them. Since the surface to be polished is very small, I don't want to buy a special polishing agent.&#xA;So is there a household substance that I can use as a substitute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3238" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T09:35:12.077" Title="Are there substances used in everyday life that are suitable for polishing acrylic glass?" Tags="|acrylic-glass|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11411" CreationDate="2022-12-24T00:20:34.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a suitable abrasive substance nor wish to purchase some, you really have only toothpaste as a possible solution. Some products are not abrasive and will accomplish nothing. Some may be excessively abrasive and result in a poorer surface than desired. Obviously, testing is indicated if you try toothpaste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, flame polishing may provide what you require. A butane torch burns quite cleanly and can be controlled to the necessary extent. A gas range also burns cleanly, but control of such a large surface of burning propellant is going to be less easily managed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat guns are another clean route, but if you have none, it's a purchase you wish to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other heat sources are going to deposit soot or other impurities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're able to locate a suitable heat source, experimentation is again indicated. It's easy to overheat and distort the plastic, especially 5 mm material. Aim for minimal application, as you can more easily repeat the heating than you can remove too much! Laser cut acrylic has nearly glass smooth edges, due to careful application of heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZFZA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZFZA.png&quot; alt=&quot;10 mm laser cut acrylic cube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image is of a 10 mm laser cut acrylic cube. Due to the high magnification, one can see the striations caused by the stepper motors. If a smooth surface was required, I'd sand it with the highest grit sandpaper I can find (1200) followed by micromesh (undesired purchase for you) with a water bath. The result would be glass smooth at the expense of some elbow grease. Using heat would be much faster and less laborious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2022-12-24T09:35:12.077" LastActivityDate="2022-12-24T09:35:12.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10582" CreationDate="2022-12-25T12:24:08.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going against the grain, 90 degree, will result in a book that will want to open a bit more than usual, but not so dramatic that you should not do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you mention using the paper on the diagonal and going to the effort to have all items that can be made so to be made on the same diagonal. I feel that you run a big risk of the book going to bend and likely not all in the same degree, resulting in a book that looks very untidy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no choice but to use paper with the grain on the diagonal, at least even it out with all the other parts of the book in the best direction.&#xA;That way you do stand a chance on a book that is acceptable in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2022-12-25T12:24:08.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10510" CreationDate="2022-12-25T12:49:45.773" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going by the 25 count per inch, I assume your stitches will be about 1 mm each, which is extremely tiny for any kind of cross stitch embroidery.  I doubt you can get a fabric which is fine enough to meet that thread count and still be loose enough to embroider over and take out the threads afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go instead to stabilizing the fabric itself on its back, with interfacing fabric or 'non-woven material' which you can leave on after embroidering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select a quality shirt which has the grain of the fabric straight and wash it so you are sure that it will stay that way before you spend the effort of working on it.  Make sure you have the fabric completely flat and straight, and iron it on with the advised heat, so it sticks the best it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work you embroidery with the material in a ring (or other frame) so it can not stretch at all while working. Stretching it will release the fabric attached to the back.  Use the knit of the fabric as your counting guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have finished the embroidery you can take away all the interfacing that is not actually in the embroidered area, but be careful not to damage anything in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise to go for a different process myself. I would embroider on a suitable fabric and applique that onto the shirt. This way you can save the work once the shirt is worn out and transfer it to a different garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2022-12-25T18:08:29.097" LastActivityDate="2022-12-25T18:08:29.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10834" CreationDate="2022-12-25T13:36:21.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not matter whether that first stitch is a knit or purl, it will not impact the whole of the project. It will hardly been seen if left open like a shawl, it will be hidden in the seam when you make an item out of several panels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel is it important, you can make one (or a few) extra cast on stitches and take out that first (or those extra) one(s) leaving all the stitches knit or purl as you like. You can undo the extra cast on stitches easiest if you left them drop from the needle when turning around at the end of the row, and cutting through the loop of the slipknot if they do not fall away naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I learned to cast on there was no way to make knit or purl, it was just cast on and it worked. I have later learned a knitting way to cast on and in those you can make a difference but it mostly does not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2022-12-31T10:55:32.887" LastActivityDate="2022-12-31T10:55:32.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-26T19:32:37.700" Score="0" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;When drawing a western style graphic novel:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have several panels in which a character is giving expository dialog. The frames are drawn with a wide viewing angle and from a distance so that several text bubbles can appear in each frame. The speaker is drawn some distance form the reader and there is a significant amount of background in the frame drawn at a low level of detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to transition to a close up scene that focuses on the face of the speaker. They are in emotional distress due to the painful memories being exposited in the dialog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to draw attention to the speaker's face, is standard method to lighten the background so that it is less obvious to the reader, or darken it to draw the reader into the lighter area of the frame which is the face of the speaker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2022-12-29T20:44:48.687" LastActivityDate="2022-12-29T20:44:48.687" Title="What should I do to the background pallet when focussing in on a character who is distressed?" Tags="|drawing|comics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2022-12-28T18:28:10.010" Score="3" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the two videos linked below, John Muir Laws says that when drawing anything you should start by gesture sketching. What does he mean by gesture sketching: is it the normal sketching that we do when we are starting to draw something? I'm uncertain because I thought gesture sketching is a technique for figure drawing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;And what is the difference between sketching and gesture sketching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ux1Nqnzc37c&amp;amp;t=2945s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Muir Laws - Essential Drawing Techniques 49:05&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAY2mVEg-xY&amp;amp;t=1528s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gesture Sketching 25:28&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16143" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2022-12-30T06:56:00.287" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T19:16:18.223" Title="What is the difference between sketching and gesture drawing?" Tags="|drawing|terminology|sketching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11416" CreationDate="2022-12-28T21:10:49.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that depends on what you want the reader to focus on. Comic book panels aren't primarily about aesthetic image composition or a realistic reflection of the world, but about directing the readers eye and conveying the plot of a story in a smooth way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the character is in distress because of the environment (like crossing a dangerous river or the bad guis hiding in a maze of shipping containers), then I would focus on the environment for 1 - 2 panels before fading it to the background and focusing on the characters face showing the fear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the characters distress has no direct link to the surrounding, then you shouldn't put much detail into it, because it draws the attention away from the character. You could even draw it only roughly or blurry and possibly cover parts of it with text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;strong&gt;fade the background&lt;/strong&gt; by removing details or removing color. Removing details is easy: You mostly draw the outlines and very few additional lines. Removing color means that you give all objects in the background the same base color. Blue sky, dark blue trees, light blue mountain tops. Or orange sky with a yellow sun and yellow buildings reflecting the sunlight. The background is still there, but it's obviously less important that the character or object in a contrasting color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In panels where you want to focus on a motion like a hand-to-hand fight, you should even leave the background completely blank. I've seen some comics where fight scenes are drawn with a very light (sky) blue background which looks very natural and doesn't distract from the action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is true for key moments of a characters emotion or inner state. When a character learns something that completely changes their world (like the death of a loved one), or they lose control over their emotions (think of the Hulk), that happens &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the character and drawing any environment would take the focus away from that &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the color of the background, there are some obvious choices. Night scenes should be darker than bright sunlight, of course. If the character is blinded by some light source, you can help the reader identify with the character if this one panel is significantly brighter than the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But colors can also convey emotions. Red is a classic background color for anger and rage, certain green tones can invoke a feeling of sickness and pale blue can make a scene feel cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also hint at the emotional state of a character. Bright and fully saturated colors can evoke a feeling of happyness or being energetic, while muted colors (moving towards grey in a color wheel) can convey a feeling of depression or hopelessness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the caracter is mourning someone, I would keep the background mostly in muted blues, violets and greys, regardless of what it would look like in reality. Constrain yourself to a narrow angle of the color wheel to express the sadness of the scene. A more artistic approach would be to fade half of the face of the character into the background color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the character is injured, fighting someone or running away, I would keep the colors brighter and use more colors for the background to express the energy and adrenalin of the scene. If the background would naturally be dark, I would create a halo around the character to increase the contrast (which also increases the &amp;quot;energy&amp;quot; of the scene).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2022-12-28T21:10:49.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11425" CreationDate="2022-12-31T20:22:17.787" Score="7" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand if this sounds like an odd question, so please allow me to explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reading an entry in a French dictionary and translating it into English. This entry is “sauvegarde.” In a general context, this term is translated as “safeguard,” “protection,” or even “conservation.” However, in the context of bookbinding, the definition essentially says, “Strip of paper made to protect the endpapers of books during the bookbinding.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my knowledge of bookbinding is sorely lacking, but I am reasonably confident that “safeguard” is not the word that goes with that definition. My research indicates that this strip of paper might be called “waste sheet” or “flyleaf,” but I am not entirely sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the word that matches the above definition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addendum&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some information to add that should clarify things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a website that gives an expanded definition of “sauvegarde” in the context of bookbinding. This definition essentially says, “It is a strip of paper the length of the volume, that one folds in half and that one sews before the endsheet at the beginning and after the endsheet at the end of each volume; they are used to protect the endsheets: one removes them before finishing the bookbinding and at the moment of gluing the endsheets on the cardboard.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference URL: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.moulinduverger.com/reliure-manuelle/lexique-sauvegarde.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.moulinduverger.com/reliure-manuelle/lexique-sauvegarde.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, for those of you who are not familiar with the parts of a book, I have found a website that does a good job explaining them. I will provide the link below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference URL: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bookprinting.com/resources/parts-of-a-book&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://bookprinting.com/resources/parts-of-a-book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16158" LastEditorUserId="16158" LastEditDate="2023-01-01T22:28:33.430" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T18:51:40.050" Title="What do they call a strip of paper made to protect the endpapers of books during the bookbinding?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11421" CreationDate="2023-01-01T19:37:24.493" Score="6" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does cutting or trimming a food safe silicone make the cuts unsafe for food contact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&#xA;Can I trim a food safe silicone mold that I wanted to cut out or remove a feature, can I do so and continue using it to make food items safely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example: can I trim a food grade silicone spatula/turner so that it has a better edge (sharper/less blunt)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to find the best community to ask, and this seems to be it. Please direct if there is a better one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16171" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T20:16:22.603" Title="Does cutting/trimming food safe silicone make it unsafe?" Tags="|food-safe|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11420" CreationDate="2023-01-01T23:20:56.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should still be food safe in the way you're probably thinking, but let me expand on a few ramifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The silicone, itself&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the manufacturer has fully complied with the requirements for labeling the item &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; (the safety of which is limited to using it for an intended purpose), the silicone, itself, should be food safe throughout.  If you chop off a corner and expose the internal material, it won't transfer hazardous substances to your food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caveats to this part are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You use it for the purpose it was approved for.  There are many classes of food safe materials, and the requirements vary for usage characteristics such as temperature, incidental contact vs. long-term storage, the type of food it will be used with, etc.  As long as you use the item for its advertised purpose, you're fine in this regard.  For other purposes, it might or might not be fine.  You don't know the limitations of the materials used and the manufacturer makes no claims, so you're on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Food safety is generally defined by a government body of each country.  Manufacturer's are expected to follow the guidelines and comply with the requirements of the countries in which the product will be sold.  There generally isn't government oversight of the products manufactured.  If a manufacturer labels something as food safe and it isn't, they could be subject to a private lawsuit, with the onus on the injured party to prove the problem.  If a lot of people are injured by a product, or an issue that could threaten a lot of people happens to be identified, a government entity might order a recall or seize a shipment from another country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers of cheap products in certain countries have been known to cut corners as normal business practice.  If the products are hazardous, and if the problem is identified, the penalty is usually just loss of the bad product.  So there isn't a huge financial incentive to not cut corners.  I'm not aware that food-safe silicone products from manufacturers in these countries have ever been a problem.  But if you plan to modify such products and expose the interior material, that could potentially carry risks if the products aren't in compliance with their labeling.  Just a consideration to think about when selecting products to modify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The surface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the silicone, itself, there are food safety considerations related to the mechanical properties and condition of the food contact surface.  If there are a lot of nooks and crannies, surface roughness, cracks, etc., those can be hard to clean and can harbor bacteria or contaminants.  If you're going to modify a utensil or food mold, be careful to leave a smooth surface and no cracks, partial cuts, or seam openings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cutting out a feature on a mold&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove a feature from a mold, you generally need to either fill it (if the feature is a protrusion on the finished item), or cut it out.  Cutting something out of a mold generally leaves a hole, which then needs to be closed off.  Either way, the materials you use for that will become part of the mold, so that also needs to be food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will need to bond sufficiently with the silicone in the mold to stand up to use as a mold, or at least be mechanically held in place during molding.  So for that material, you need to consider not just whether it's food safe for this purpose, but whether it is suitable for a mold, and how you will ensure it maintains its shape without distortion, how you will incorporate it onto the silicone, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-03T00:48:38.707" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T00:48:38.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11423" CreationDate="2023-01-02T00:49:15.070" Score="3" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some 3mm dyneema kite line and I'm looking to crochet the line into a strap/cord which can be used to tie things, hoist etc.  What is the strongest crochet stitch which would allow me to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would have a flat and a round option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16172" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T15:18:35.083" Title="Strongest crochet stitch for making a non stretch strap/cord" Tags="|crocheting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11422" CreationDate="2023-01-02T08:41:30.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are looking for the wrong craft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crocheting your string will thicken up but it will be still be only one strand and any damage that breaks a single strand will break your whole string. And the tight bends in which you force you string in crochet do not work well in dyneema, which is at it strongest straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go for braiding strands together, at least 8 strands in a round or semi round pattern. With that you do not need to bend your string in tight bends, the several strands will support each other and the failure of one strand will not weaken the whole of your strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find instruction for braiding online but I have added some I have online, (non commercial site, made by me.)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://knopen.ismijnhobby.nl.bales.id.au/tables/braid-text_table.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the page where I have the links to the braids,&lt;/a&gt; I would go for the eight strands making a square braid, or the round eight with some extra strings for a core. Or using two or three strings for each braiding strand, a 4 strand round braid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2023-01-02T15:18:35.083" LastActivityDate="2023-01-02T15:18:35.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11325" CreationDate="2023-01-02T17:54:56.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cricut cutting machines that can cut wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cricut Maker:&lt;/strong&gt; This machine can cut a variety of materials, including balsa wood, basswood, and chipboard, up to 2.4 mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cricut Explore Air:&lt;/strong&gt; This machine can cut balsa wood and basswood up to 1.5 mm thick, as well as chipboard, matboard, and foam board up to 2 mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cricut Joy:&lt;/strong&gt; This machine is specifically designed for cutting lightweight materials such as paper, vinyl, and cardstock, but it can also cut balsa wood and basswood up to 1.5 mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you will need to use the appropriate blade and settings for each type of wood. You can find more detailed information about cutting wood with Cricut machines in the user manual or on the Cricut website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information, see the Cricut article &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://help.cricut.com/hc/en-us/articles/360009556693-Cricut-Maker-Cutting-balsa-wood-with-Knife-Blade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cricut Maker: Cutting balsa wood with Knife Blade&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16174" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2023-01-03T19:34:08.250" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T19:34:08.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11419" CreationDate="2023-01-03T18:51:40.050" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the citations below the best translation for &amp;quot;sauvegarde&amp;quot; is &amp;quot;waste sheet&amp;quot; based on matching the description you have given to description of waste sheet in the bookbinding process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://cool.culturalheritage.org/don/toc/toc1.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bookbinding and the Conservation of Books A Dictionary of Descriptive Terminology&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“It is a strip of paper the length of the volume, that one folds in&#xA;half and that one sews before the endsheet at the beginning and after&#xA;the endsheet at the end of each volume; they are used to protect the&#xA;endsheets: one removes them before finishing the bookbinding and at&#xA;the moment of gluing the endsheets on the cardboard.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;matches the description for the definition of the term &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cool.culturalheritage.org/don/dt/dt3733.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;waste sheet&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A sheet of paper tipped to the outside over the permanent endpaper to prevent it from becoming damaged or soiled during the binding of&#xA;the book. Special instructions on binding the book may also be written&#xA;on this sheet. Originally, the waste sheet was printed with an&#xA;abbreviated title so that the publication could be identified. The&#xA;so-called printed waste sheet is known as the half-title paper and is&#xA;always found in books of any pretension to high quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also -&#xA;From the article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.conservation-wiki.com/wiki/BPG_Endpapers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BPG Endpapers&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waste sheets protect the pastedowns or linen stubs during binding&#xA;operations. They can be removed before pasting down, or adhered&#xA;underneath the visible board sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.conservation-wiki.com/wiki/BPG_Endpapers#Terminology&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BPG Endpapers - Terminology&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also -&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.conservation-wiki.com/wiki/BPG_Endpapers#Made_Endpapers.2C_Sewn_On_.2816th_C_-_19th_C.29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BPG Endpapers - Made Endpapers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the book was small, the first white flyleaf was left as a waste sheet to be torn off at the time of pasting down the cover lining leaf of the endpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching the article for the words &amp;quot;waste sheet&amp;quot; will demonstrate that different bookbinding practices treat the waste sheet in different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6946" LastActivityDate="2023-01-03T18:51:40.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-06T17:28:20.967" Score="10" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to knit a tea cosy like shown in this picture (not affiliated; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lilac-teapot-cozy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image source&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFFvWm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFFvWm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want it to give proper insulation to my tea pot to keep the contents warm for longer. Originally I planned on using the English Rib pattern (aka Patentmuster in German), but seeing it now I'm uncertain how well it actually insulates. Due to its stretchyness it seems like a quite loose pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any knitting patterns that are known to be very well insulating? I would prefer to knit only with one strand, but I can do 2 strands if I must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T16:45:17.217" Title="Which knitting pattern is particularly heat insulating?" Tags="|knitting|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-07T22:12:50.250" Score="4" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently colouring my son's baby box (a gift box we receive from the government in Scotland which is made of cardboard and decorated with black and white pictures) using oil pastels and pencil. I'm hoping to use the box for keepsakes and give it to my son once he's old enough to not wreck it. However, now I'm going to have a box that is expected to be handled by a child that will be covered in oil pastel. So I need to find a fixative that will be resistant to frequent touch and also hopefully of low toxicity.&#xA;I have done some research and it looks like lots of good spray fixatives can still leave surfaces sticky and smudgable, so I'm pretty sure I will need something that gets painted on, possibly a varnish? I have had a look at SpectraFix products as they are meant to be non-toxic and was about to go with their Natural Glass varnish before noticing it wasn't for oil pastels. Any fixative suggestions would be appreciated and tips on their application for someone who is a complete novice would be great. Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16218" LastActivityDate="2023-02-18T18:46:37.880" Title="What (preferably non-toxic) fixative would work best for oil pastels on a cardboard box?" Tags="|safety|oil-pastels|fixative|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11431" CreationDate="2023-01-08T10:41:39.753" Score="6" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to repurpose a 2K epoxy adhesive in a kind of casting resin: I've got to pour in a small electrical switch into a wooden hole that was drilled too large. The adhesive is transparent, that would look ugly, so I wondered if I can color it. Since I'm far away from shops and due to time pressure, I can't buy the proper ingredients, instead I need a workaround.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What substances could I use as pigmentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color doesn't matter at all and opaqueness is preferred over tinting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3238" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-10T00:50:06.927" LastActivityDate="2023-01-10T05:52:38.467" Title="Are there every-day substances that can be used to color 2-component epoxy adhesive?" Tags="|material-selection|epoxy-resin|pigments|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11428" CreationDate="2023-01-08T12:35:25.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I've suggested titanium dioxide powder for opaque white epoxy. That's pretty specialised and would need to be ordered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's really no time for that, it looks like baking soda works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have slow epoxy here but I've done a small-scale test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By eye I initially used equal volumes of resin, hardener, and bicarbonate of soda. I then added a bit more soda. There was no bubbling or other visible reaction as I mixed. It took more mixing than normal, so it might not work with 5-minute epoxy or faster. The result was a paste that might sculpt fairly well, or might flow (we'll know later) and would be opaque for layers thicker than about 0.5mm.  After a few hours it's about as solid as I'd expect (i.e. not quite) but I reckon a 1mm layer is needed to be opaque.  The next day it's hard, just like that epoxy normally goes, but white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably go for an even higher proportion of baking soda, just make sure it's free of lumps first.  Some applications use only about 5% epoxy with the rest filler - but that's industrial materials and processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2023-01-09T21:58:06.283" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T21:58:06.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11428" CreationDate="2023-01-08T20:47:02.183" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider using sawdust. You can pack a considerable amount of dry filler materials into epoxy without it losing its adhesive properties. This not only colors the epoxy the same shade as the wood (it will probably be darker and look wetter than the dry wood) but it also saves on the amount of epoxy you need to fill the hole. The drawback is that you might introduce &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of air bubbles, which most people see as a defect in cured resin, You might have to sand and touch up the cast with a second layer of epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possibilities include almost any powder like pigments, ground up chalk or charcoal, fine ash, cocoa, ground up dry water colors, all kinds of powdery makeup and many other things you may find. Be aware that all of these powders tend to sink to the bottom during the curing of the epoxy, so you might end up with a semi translucent top layer and a fully opaque depth. This happened to me even though the epoxy I used had a honey-like viscosity, but during the curing it first gets more liquid before getting hard and it had a curing time of 24 hours, which is ample time for the powders to settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be careful with paints. Allegedly oil paints mix well with epoxy, but I never tried that. I tried acryllic paints and had some unexpected results, as documented in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/q/6124/6316&quot;&gt;this old post&lt;/a&gt;. Some paints didn't mix at all and others drastically changed color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-01-09T12:04:36.393" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T12:04:36.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11428" CreationDate="2023-01-08T21:19:55.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a two-part answer for different audiences.  The question title may attract people interested in a solution for epoxy casting or other projects involving a substantive amount of resin.  The body of the question describes needing to make a drilled hole a little smaller, so a tiny amount of resin.  Two very different use cases and considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1. Resin to make a hole smaller&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Considerations:&lt;/strong&gt; You need a small amount of resin.  There won't be much resin surface exposed, but you don't want it transparent.  Since you aren't concerned about the color, you probably don't care if the color changes over time.  For a small surface area covering something that isn't backlit, it won't make much difference whether it is opaque or densely translucent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommendations in these answers are likely to be better than some random powders, but you could really use a broad range of household powders that are very fine.  I would still test it first, though.  The materials suggested in the second part of this answer (see below), are intended to also be suitable for casting purposes.  The broader range of materials in the other answers will provide additional options that will be adequate for the requirements in this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this use case, the question more important than &amp;quot;what&amp;quot; is probably &amp;quot;how much&amp;quot;.  You can mix a small amount of opaque powder and turn the resin opaque but still liquid.  This would allow you to pour it into the cavity, where it will spread out and self-level.  Or use the hole as a mold by sealing one face, pour a layer of resin, and drill a new hole through it after it hardens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, mix in a lot of powder so that a small amount of resin serves as a binder.  The mix will have a putty or clay consistency.  You can push it where you want it and sculpt a solution.  After it hardens, you can further smooth and shape it with tools.  You could also use it the same way as liquid resin, but you would need to press it into place since it won't flow (the benefits would be less resin required, and no worries about sealing the cavity so liquid doesn't seep where it isn't supposed to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2. General case for casting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pigment vs. dye&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest and most effective way to get opaque coloring is to add pigment, rather than a liquid dye. Pigment is any very fine powder that doesn't dissolve or react.  There are dyes that can be added in enough concentration to make it hard to see through the epoxy while still keeping it pourable, but nothing you likely have laying around the house, and they don't mask well in thin layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People sometimes use food coloring, but that tends not to be color-stable, isn't opaque, and can affect the appearance of the epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Opacity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To look like uniform coloring, you need an extremely fine powder.  The powder will obscure visibility more effectively if it is something that is actually opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White-looking powders that are tiny crystals (e.g., baking soda, sugar, salt, borax), are actually transparent.  Used as a pigment, they will make the epoxy translucent rather than opaque (their index of refraction is different from the epoxy's, so light will still pass through but will be randomized).  If the layer is thick enough, that will still obscure what's behind it, but in thin layers, you may be able to make out what the epoxy is hiding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an opaque material, as long as the layer is thick enough at the concentration of pigment so the pigment is at least one particle deep everywhere you look, it's opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some recommendations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talcum powder is a good, readily-available material (make sure it is talc rather than corn starch, which is often substituted in baby powder).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various forms of carbon (e.g., powdered charcoal, lamp black, graphite, etc.) are the go-to black pigment.  If you don't have some form of it in a powder, you can make your own from something like pencil lead, the electrode of a dead dry cell battery, or a barbeque brickette, although it may take some work to get a uniform fine powder (luckily, you don't need much).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calcium carbonate is often used as a filler (from common sources, grinding some chalk is an easier way to get a fine powder than crushing egg shells).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another often readily-available material is mica powder in the form of eye shadow, although that will add a decorative shimmer to the epoxy (it's sometimes used with another pigment to make it look metallic or pearlescent).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plaster of Paris might work, although I've never tried it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elmy's suggestion of sawdust can also work for casting, but for that application, it should have a very small particle size and a low moisture content, and a vacuum chamber is usually needed to get rid of the air bubbles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small amounts of oil-based paint supposedly can work, but I've never tried that.  Acrylic paint is sometimes used.  That is pigment in a water-based binder, and water and epoxy don't mix.  High-quality acrylic paints that are a paste consistency have less water relative to the pigment.  Mixing in small amounts, the negative effects of the water will often be masked by the pigment.  It isn't ideal, but it can work.  Acrylic paint wouldn't be near the top of my list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General considerations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many household substances that are powders, or can be turned into powders, can be mixed into epoxy.  Some will work fine, others not so much.  In sorting out what to try, here are a few considerations beyond what has been mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would generally avoid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything that dissolves in water.  Some of the particles will end up on the surface.  Cleaning the surface, sweat from hands, etc. may dissolve those particles leaving matte areas that affect the appearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powders that are crystals that dissolve in water.  Many of these are &amp;quot;hydrates&amp;quot; (a chemical form that contains bound water).  Some of these aren't particularly stable, and break down over time, such as losing their bound water.  This could affect the appearance of the epoxy in unpredictable ways.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Food products.  Complex organic stuff can break down over time (often accelerated by UV exposure), change color or appearance, or be attacked by microbes already in it.  So the result might not have a stable appearance long-term.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powders that are mineral in origin other than the exceptions above, are generally safe bets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amount&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need a huge amount of pigment to make epoxy opaque, although it wouldn't hurt if you use more (i.e., it won't affect the epoxy cure or for most practical purposes, its strength or how well it adheres to what you're putting it on/in).  In fact, you can use mostly pigment with just enough epoxy to act as a binder since the pigment is cheap and epoxy isn't.  It needs to be very well mixed so there are no pockets of pigment powder, and you will want a longer-setting epoxy to give you time to mix it and work with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pigment will thicken the mixture.  At just a few percent of the mixture, there won't be too much change in viscosity, and that may be enough to give it opaque color in the thickness of epoxy you need.  Adding more pigment, it will turn into a paste consistency.  When you start getting to the point where the epoxy is more of just a binder, the consistency will get more like sticky putty or clay (that's basically what epoxy putty and clay is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pigment settling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Elmy mentions, pigments can settle.  This is a bigger issue when the epoxy is low-viscosity, there isn't much pigment, the pigment is heavier than the epoxy especially if it is not a super-fine powder, and/or the epoxy has a long setting time.  Settling isn't an issue with light fillers like sawdust, which Elmy suggested, or carbon powder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a mineral filler at clay consistency, any effect might just leave the surface looking glossy rather than matte.  At lower concentrations, settlement can be reduced by using more-viscous epoxy, with a gelling time not excessively longer than what you need for working time (it doesn't need to fully cure to stop any settling, it just needs to reach the state where it starts to gel and become very thick).  Start with pigment that is an extremely fine powder; that takes much longer to sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can speed up the cure once everything is as you want it by gently warming the epoxy, although that might temporarily reduce the viscosity, so it becomes a race between settlement and curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settling is mainly an issue if you are casting something thick.  If you're just making a small amount, like for a repair or to line an oversized hole, it won't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-10T05:52:38.467" LastActivityDate="2023-01-10T05:52:38.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-08T22:43:01.967" Score="3" ViewCount="1456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a leather and stainless steel bracelet that I received as a commemorative gift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time one end of the leather bracelet has come out of the stainless steel clasp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for the best glue to attach both pieces back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the following constraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any substance should be available within the United Kingdom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any solution should not visibly damage the leather or metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The solution should be able to stand up to general wear and tear. The bracelet will be worn daily and could be removed from the wrist multiple times in a day. The clasp is magnetic so a small vibration occurs each time the clasp is closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8JLWn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8JLWn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bracelet&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16184" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2023-01-09T22:34:28.580" LastActivityDate="2023-01-10T09:30:34.637" Title="Repairing a leather and stainless steel bracelet" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|metal|restoration|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11432" CreationDate="2023-01-09T06:40:18.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the leather fits back in the clasp&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like it in the picture, but if the leather can be inserted back in the clasp, I would use E6000 adhesive to glue it in.  It bonds aggressively with both materials and remains flexible (shock-resistant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coat the end of the leather and get some glue over the tip and into the center of the braid.  Give it a short time for some to absorb into the surface, then slowly push it into the clasp with a little back and forth twisting motion to spread the glue around inside the clasp.  Wipe off any excess glue while it's still wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the outside clean, wrap some tape around the leather and clasp to stabilize it so it doesn't move or pull apart while the glue is drying (painters tape or fresh masking tape should work without leaving residue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would give it at least overnight for the glue to dry (the clasp and tape will seal the joint and slow drying).  Then carefully remove the tape without pulling on the joint.  If you can still smell any of the solvent, give it at least another half a day to dry.  Once you can no longer smell solvent, give it a day for the joint to reach full strength before using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the leather doesn't fit back in the clasp&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll suggest a few approaches based on the picture and some assumptions.  With a lot of repairs of this nature, there isn't a standard way to do it.  Basically, you want to connect the leather with the clasp in a way that looks like it did originally, or at least looks good and like it was intended to look that way, and so it stays together under use.  I'll assume the method also needs to be doable without specialized tools you aren't likely to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clasp looks flattened and there isn't obvious adhesive on the end of the leather.  I'm guessing that the leather went into what started as a tube (the leather might have been compressed to reduce its diameter and inserted before it expanded again), and then the tube was compressed to make a tight friction fit.  The magnet may have been glued in afterwards.  The assumption was probably that there was enough friction holding in the leather that the magnets would separate before the leather moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four repair approaches come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secure the leather back inside the clasp.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the clasp already compressed and a magnet in the other end, this would be hard to do without modifying the end of the leather.  The key would be doing it in a way that's invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting the leather into the clasp&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to reduce the diameter of the end of the leather and make it stiff so that it slides into the tube fairly easily.  Friction on the inside of the tube will cause the braid to expand, making it much harder to get the leather inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a fixture to compress the end of the leather.  Drill a hole in a material like wood that is a hair smaller than the hole in the clasp.  Cut a thin slot through the wood on one side from the edge of the wood into the hole.  Use a screwdriver in the slot to spread the hole a little bigger and get the end of the leather into the hole (no more than the depth of the hole in the clasp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the screwdriver and put the wood in a vise to compress the hole by pushing the slot closed.  Leave the leather there for a while (maybe an hour).  Then stretch the hole again with a screwdriver in the slot, remove the leather, and immediately push it into the clasp.  If it expands too quickly, try it again with a fixture with a smaller hole or a wider slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't compress it enough, remove a little of the leather from the inside of the braid.  One way to do that is to secure the leather in the hole fixture, and carefully drill out a center hole to a depth of no more than the depth of the hole in the clasp (see note at the end of the answer).  The idea is just to remove a little material and give the remaining material a place to go when you compress it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that can help get the leather back into the clasp is to bevel the end of the leather with fine sandpaper.  That might be easier if you secure and harden the end with something like superglue (cyanoacrylate, the low viscosity version; a very fine dispenser tip helps).  Wrap a bit of polyethylene bag tightly around the end of the leather and then put a small amount of superglue on the end of the leather.  It will soak in and also stiffen the leather at the end.  In the US, most plastic grocery store bags and produce bags are made of HDPE.  The heavy, translucent plastic bags inside boxes of cereal are also HDPE.  Pre-test some superglue on the plastic to verify that you can peel it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Securing the leather in the clasp&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can easily get the compressed leather back in the clasp and still have some working time, consider gluing it in as described at the beginning of the answer.  If not, here's an alternate way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a superglue dispenser with a &amp;quot;needle tip&amp;quot;.  Just outside the clasp, push the leather braid toward the clasp to loosen it, and stick the dispenser tip through a gap in the braid into the center of the braid inside the clasp.  With the clasp down (so gravity is pulling the glue down into the clasp, inject the glue a little at a time into the center if the braid.  I'm assuming the magnet has a good seal so the glue won't run out around the magnet.  You want the glue to soak into the leather and run out the gaps in the braid to the inside of the clasp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue will adhere the leather to the clasp and also harden the leather so it can't reduce diameter when it stretches when pulled to open the clasp.  That should be plenty secure.  If the glue soaks into the leather exposed outside the clasp, it shouldn't be very visible, especially if you wipe any free glue off the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're gluing, keep some cotten swabs wetted with acetone handy to wipe off any excess glue (leather workers might want to weigh in on how damaging a quick wipe of acetone would be to leather, and any better way to clean off superglue, or post-wipe treatment).  Don't use any form of dry wipe unless you want that permanently glued to the bracelet, turning it into a charm bracelet.  :-)  It would be worth doing dry runs with scrap materials to perfect your technique before doing it on the bracelet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secure the leather to the end of the clasp in a way that looks like it's inside.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gist of this method is to glue some form of thin, strong, stiff but flexible cable inside the end of the leather braid.  That is secured to a plug that fits snugly inside the clasp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that could work for the cable would be cotton string soaked in diluted PVA glue and dried straight.  Use something like a small diameter nail to expand the braid and open a hole down the center (it doesn't need to reach very far--1 cm is probably enough.  Glue the cable inside the braid and  stretch and work the braid tight around it.  Many adhesives will work for this, but E6000 or Barge cement would be my first choices.  Drill a hole in the plug, feed the cable through, and glue it in the hole (superglue via a needle tip dispenser), and to the inside face of the plug (E6000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the braid so it's a slightly smaller diameter than the outside of the clasp, with a nicely squared edge.  Glue inside the braid will hold that together.  With the cable inside, you might need a fixture similar to what was described in the previous approach for compressing the end.  Use that while the glue is drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then insert and glue the plug inside the clasp (E6000), so the leather is tight against the end of the clasp.  The gluing technique for the plug would be similar to gluing in the leather described at the start of the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secure the leather inside something that looks like it's an intended part of the bracelet design and fasten that to the clasp.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach is somewhat similar to the previous one, but instead of securing the fastening plug to the inside of the braid, it is secured to something decorative on the outside of the braid.  For example, the end of the braid could be wrapped with jewelry wire that goes with the metal in the clasp.  That would be wrapped very tightly, and would have the advantage over the original design of the wire ridges to grab the leather compared to the smooth surface inside the clasp.  You could further use superglue inside the wrap to saturate the leather, hardening it so it can't compress and gluing it to the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secure the clasp inside the leather braid so only the other half of the clasp shows.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gist of this approach is to loosen the braid at the end enough to create a hole that the clasp fits into.  Drilling out a little of the internal leather would allow a thinner leather shell over the clasp.  Glue the clasp inside the leather (something like E6000 adhesive or Barge cement would bond them together and hold the braid together at the end).  Wrap the joint with tape to stabilize it while it's drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Leather that's been hardened with superglue can be drilled out with regular drill bits.  I've never tried to drill plain leather and don't know if a regular drill bit might chew it up, leading to damage visible on the outside.  Plain leather might do better with some type of abrasive Dremel bit that sands away a hole.  Any readers who work with leather are welcome to weigh in on this, or any of the rest of the suggestions.  These are all extrapolated from having done similar kinds of things, but never exactly this kind of repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-10T09:30:34.637" LastActivityDate="2023-01-10T09:30:34.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11427" CreationDate="2023-01-09T19:28:19.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all honesty, I wouldn't give this box to my child until they are at least a teenager. You can use the box for keepsakes in the meantime, but I wouldn't let my child have unsupervised acess to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason 1 is for safety considerations. Oil pastels have a soft consistency and are easy to smudge with your fingers. But even if there's a layer of sealant on top, it's still soft underneath which can cause any varnish to crack and flake off when being handled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe search the online shop of the manufacturer of the oil pastels you used for a special oil pastel fixative, or ask your local craft store for a suitable fixative. The advantage is that manufacturers produce their fixatives specifically to work best with their own brand of oil pastels. You can also use fixatives from a different manufacturer, but the results may vary. Just regular varnish won't stick to the oily surface. Be sure to follow the instructions of the fixative because applying too much melts the oil pastels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reason 2 is more sentimental. My mother also kept some objects from various times of my childhood and I always felt that there had to be a certain distance between the creation of the object and my appreciation of them. Maybe roughly double my age, meaning that I could appreciate a picture I drew at age 3 when I was 6 and I could appreciate my first writings I did at 6 when I was 12. Mostly because I forgot those objects in the meantime and could rediscover them, but also because it made me realize how much more advanced my drawing and writing skills had become since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-01-12T10:33:07.377" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T10:33:07.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11417" CreationDate="2023-01-11T14:29:18.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gestural drawing is making your marks using quick, light, loose and open movements of your hand. Thus more gestural than tight and/or precise. It is not focused on capturing textures or modelling light and shadow. The gestural drawing is about getting a feel for the subject at hand and how it will translate to the page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gestural stage can be thought of as a chance to capture the essence of what you are drawing: its overall composition and how it fits on the page. It acts as the spine of a more developed drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sketching also suggests a more open approach to a subject, something that is not as developed as a highly finished ie. analytical capturing of an object or scene. It really comes down to time spent making the work. A sketch will have less time invested than a detailed rendering of something, and gestural drawing is even more &amp;quot;urgent&amp;quot; and direct. The sketch can stop at a gestural level or be taken further but would still be something less finished looking than a more formal drawing or painting. The sketch can also skip the gestural step, or you can do that part in your mind as you draw more controlled lines on the page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of this &amp;quot;less time&amp;quot; or less controlled aspects of making a work are to suggest that the sketch cannot stand on its own as a work of art. The minimalism of using few essential marks to capture the complexity of the world can be quite beautiful and powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2023-01-11T14:48:55.420" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T14:48:55.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11439" CreationDate="2023-01-11T20:17:09.603" Score="6" ViewCount="2972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been repairing a Chinese porcelain tea set for a friend using the faux-kintsugi technique involving gold mica powder and 2-part epoxy, based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/10678/6388&quot;&gt;Elmy's answer here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using UHU Plus Schnellfest 2-k-epoxidkleber, but the curing (or handling) time of 5 minutes (&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;5 min verarbeitbar - nach 20 min fest&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;) is too fast to mend multiple pieces, and I can only make my batches so small (I use a single drop from both tubes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there anything I can add (or do) to slow down the handling time of the epoxy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably this would be a common household ingredient, but all answers are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize I can add less of the hardening agent, but imagine this will just as easily compromise the durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T19:07:39.337" Title="What can I use to slow down the curing of 2-part epoxy?" Tags="|material-selection|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2023-01-12T06:35:38.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, keeping epoxy cold retards the curing time, but if the normal curing time is only 5 minutes, you won't win much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using too little hardener will ruin your resin and &lt;em&gt;won't&lt;/em&gt; prolong the curing time at all. Imagine 2-part epoxy as one liquid of chains (this is the resin) and one liquid of locks (this is the hardener). When separate, they both are liquid, but once you mix them, whenever one lock encounters two chains in this mixture, it connects them and thereby hardens the epoxy. You always want enough locks in your mixture to connect all the chains, otherwise you leave uncured resin in there. If there are too few locks, they will work as quickly as always, but they simply won't be enough to cure all of the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed at which the curing happens is an intrinsic property of the chemicals in the epoxy. Your best bet might be to use a different brand / type of epoxy. There are many different resin products with working times like 5 minutes, 30 minutes, 1 hour, 4 hours, 12-36 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your application I would suggest a working time of 5-30 minutes, because you'll have to stabilize the shards until the epoxy is cured enough to hold them. I honestly doubt that you'll be able to glue more than 2 or maybe 3 (if you're lucky) shards at the same time. My personal experience with epoxy is that the longer you need to handle it, the more of a hassle it is. You need to wear gloves while working (because epoxy can cause allergic reactions up to several hours after skin contact) which limits tactile feedback. It's &lt;em&gt;so easy&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;so frustrating&lt;/em&gt; to accidentally smudge some wet epoxy all over the place. If I ever need to glue pieces with epoxy, I always try to prepare everything so I have to touch the pieces as little as possible (preferably not at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe your current epoxy will work better for you if you use a different mixing technique. Put equal amounts of resin and hardener separated on a sturdy plastic sheet. Then take a stirring stick and transfer a small amount of resin into your &amp;quot;working area&amp;quot; of the plastic sheet. Use a second stirring stick to transfer a roughly equal amount of hardener into the &amp;quot;working area&amp;quot; and mix both with the second stirring stick. You can reuse the first stirring stick for each batch, but you'll need a second one for the hardener (or reuse one with completely cured resin on it), otherwise you risk partly curing the resin reserve on your sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="1236" LastEditDate="2023-01-17T13:29:02.797" LastActivityDate="2023-01-17T13:29:02.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2023-01-12T07:01:56.937" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a frame challenge, but honestly the solution is to buy slow epoxy in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difficulty is that consumer products seem to have divided into fast, unusable after a few minutes, and very slow, runny enough to flow for several hours (e.g. Araldite precision, which is what I tend to use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find one nominally rated to an hour, that's ideal. I've used these in industrial versions. Note that time ratings aren't accurate, and one manufacturer's 10 minutes is another's 5..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right that temperature can have an effect. Heating can cause quicker curing so an overnight product is strong in a few hours at about 50°C. With cooling, of the glue or the workpiece, you can only go so far, for two reasons. Firstly the unreacted components get too stiff to mix straight out of a freezer, and second, condensation on the glue or workpiece becomes a problem, which spoils the bond. One thing to note with heating is that the peak runniness is higher. This can make for a good bond as the epoxy wets the parts better, but can mean more flow than you want.  By keeping your glue pot cool and your workpiece warm you can get best ratio of pot life to curing time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T07:01:56.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2023-01-12T07:15:30.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question asks how to slow down the epoxy setting, and the reason is because the process you're using doesn't leave enough working time to glue multiple pieces, wasting a lot of materials.  You've already identified cooling as a way to slow it down (probably the easiest way, although that won't buy you much time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question you asked, the setting time  is driven by the chemistry, so the ideal solution for gaining more working time is to use an epoxy system designed for a slower setting time.  Once you select an epoxy system, I'm not aware of a good way to change its speed through chemistry (at least not with anything you would have at home).  You especially don't want to reduce the hardener.  That won't slow it down, it will just leave unreacted resin in the hardened mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a slower-setting epoxy or cooling the one you have would be the best solution for slowing the setting speed.  However, slowing the setting speed isn't the best solution for your problem.  The problem is really the process you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Better solution to the problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like two issues are driving the desire for more working time: blending and using the mica mixture to glue the parts, and lack of a good way to mix smaller batches, resulting in wastage if you don't try to glue multiple pieces to use it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The mica&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing the mica into the epoxy used to glue the pieces is a bad idea.  It's not just using up some of the working time and complicating the glue-up, it's also affecting the alignment of the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pieces of broken porcelain typical fit back together with zero gaps.  Anything you put between the pieces will prevent a perfect reassembly.  Each glue joint will throw the remaining pieces farther out of alignment.  Adding the mica to the epoxy introduces solid material between the porcelain pieces that will prevent them from fitting back together perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible alternate assembly adhesive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, low viscosity superglue (cyanoacrylate) is probably the best adhesive for porcelain repair from the standpoint of pieces fitting back together.  It works with a microscopic layer of glue, so pieces fit as perfectly as they're going to get.  Unfortunately, superglue is very brittle, and even the waterproof ones won't handle water immersion if the tea set was to be used after repair.  They also don't handle heat well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tea set will only be displayed, you could use superglue to reassemble the pieces, then reinforce that with epoxy over the seams so it still looks like kintsugi.  That's also the fastest way to repair it since there is virtually no curing time during assembly, especially if you use an accelerator.  Just an alternative approach to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plain epoxy for assembly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But back to doing the repair entirely with epoxy, using just the epoxy without the mica to reassemble the pieces will let you compress the seams more for a better fit.  Slowing the setting time will work against you.  You will achieve the best fit by assembling several pieces to verify the alignment, then gluing just the piece most critical to aligning the other pieces. Use the least amount of epoxy that will hold the pieces together without excess, and squeeze the pieces together to spread the epoxy into the thinnest layer possible.  If you can, use tape on the seam to stabilize the joint and keep a little compression on the seam.  Let that do its initial cure, then repeat the process with the next piece.  Slowing down the setting time will stretch the time needed for the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The objective should be the best possible repair on the tea set.  That will take as much epoxy as it takes, just don't unnecessarily waste it.  Don't jeopardize the repair and the tea set to save a little epoxy.  If the pieces interlock enough to stay together, you can try gluing more than one piece at a time, which will make better use of the epoxy.  Without the mica at this stage, you're only wasting epoxy, not the mica, too.  A &lt;strong&gt;faster&lt;/strong&gt; setting time will reduce the chance of the parts moving during the cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kintsugi&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the pieces have been reassembled, the surface isn't likely to be perfect.  There will be missing chips of porcelain, surface gaps where the epoxy didn't fill the whole seam, etc. Use the kintsugi for that.  Mix an undersized batch of epoxy plus mica, and use a syringe or similar tool to paint it precisely along the seams.  If you run out, add a little more.  For this stage, you can make a batch big enough for the whole object (or as much of it as you can paint in the working time), and cooling the mixture to stretch your time will be beneficial. Use a disposable syringe since it won't be worth trying to clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might even want to use a fast-setting epoxy for the reassembly, and a slower-setting epoxy for the kintsugi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-12T09:30:57.227" LastActivityDate="2023-01-12T09:30:57.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-13T04:06:08.930" Score="4" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a cat bed using macrame cord with Elmer’s Glue-All mixed with water, and a giant beach ball as a model. I want it super stiff so it keeps its shape. What can I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention I’m not doing a typical criss-cross pattern; I’m wrapping it from the top to half way in the round. It’s a huge beach ball, 32 inches. I just want to make sure when I deflate the ball the cord stays in place. It doesn’t matter if it looks like macrame cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16249" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-13T18:51:41.977" LastActivityDate="2023-01-18T23:49:51.577" Title="Cotton cord super stiffener" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|yarn|string|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2023-01-13T04:39:56.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Epoxy comes in different speeds&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, &amp;quot;5-minute epoxy&amp;quot; is what people go for, because it benefits from advertising.  I actually use the West System 105 family, which is closer to 500 minute or 1000 minute depending on which hardener you use lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, epoxy is often used for fiberglass layup - surfboards, Corvettes, boats, airplanes. When you're doing a big layup like that, you need time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can get 2-minute, 10-minute, 20-minute, 60-minute, 180-minute or whatever speed of epoxy suits you, and a better hardware store will sell a spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-minute epoxy is a compromise between working time and &amp;quot;the person having to hold the piece with their hands while it sets up&amp;quot;. It's also not made to use with fillers such as adhesive or fairing filler (there wouldn't be time to mix it).  So with longer cure epoxy, you simply need to find a way to hold it, brace it, clamp it, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Make large enough batches to be sure of your ratio&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to do a batch of a single drop is inviting a mixing mistake.  Base and hardener must be mixed at the correct ratio and not any other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much base and long-chain molecules will not be nearly as long and it won't be as strong.  Too much hardener and it will be contaminated with leftover hardener which will weaken it and make the repair poisonous to humans.  Hardener is toxic - it's an immune system irritant. Skin blocks it reasonably well but ingestion is a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing ratio will not change cure time. It will just make a mess. &lt;em&gt;Unless the instructions tell you otherwise - some epoxies work a different way&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with throwing away epoxy - I use West System's metering pumps, so I get it in multiples of 23 cc and it costs me $0.50 USD. I have no problem with this. Epoxy is cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But also, cured epoxy is non-toxic, unlike the B-part. You don't want to, 3-4 years later, find a mostly unused pack of epoxy which has leaked or dried out. Then you're forced to throw it in the trash with the B-part not reacted, and thus adding toxins to landfills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16251" LastEditorUserId="16251" LastEditDate="2023-01-13T22:23:57.810" LastActivityDate="2023-01-13T22:23:57.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11442" CreationDate="2023-01-13T06:39:47.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't had a chance to answer the questions yet, but I'll just toss in some ideas (the reasons for some of the questions will become obvious).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use multiple layers.&lt;/strong&gt; Wind the first layer and let it dry enough to be stable but not bone dry, then put another layer on top (you can wind into the valleys between the cord rings in the first layer). This will still look like macrame cord but will be more than twice as stiff because the thickness contributes additional stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a &lt;strong&gt;large plastic serving bowl&lt;/strong&gt; and use it as an insert/liner to keep the shape (it doesn't need to be the full height or the exact same curvature or diameter). It doesn't need to be super-rigid; something in the &amp;quot;disposable&amp;quot; category will help keep the shape. If it doesn't want to stay in position, use a few dabs of hot-melt glue to keep it from moving around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coat one or both sides with clear epoxy resin&lt;/strong&gt;. After the Elmer's is completely bone dry, brush on a thick coat.  After it cures, if it still isn't stiff enough, add another coat. The coat doesn't need to be super-thick to add a lot of stiffening. Downside: this option will make the cord look like it's coated in plastic. Upside: it will be very easy to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it's acceptable for either the inside or outside to not look like macrame cord, cover the surface with a few layers of &lt;strong&gt;paper mache or a layer of paper mache clay&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Superglue&lt;/strong&gt; (cyanoacrylate adhesive, the thin stuff). Do this outside because it will release a lot of bad fumes. Cotton is one of the materials superglue reacts with to rapidly cure. If you saturate the cord with superglue, a lot of it will soak in, then rapidly harden, turning the cord into hard, stiff plastic. It will take a lot of superglue for something this size (just guessing on the order of maybe a pint bottle or more, so it will be an expense; calculate the volume of cord in the bed and you'll need close to that much superglue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the beach ball with a sheet of polyethylene as a release agent (e.g., polyethylene sheeting or sheets cut from plastic grocery store bags). When you wind the cord, don't pre-saturate it in Elmers.  Just use a method that keeps the windings in place (e.g., periodic spot of hot melt glue). Once the winding is complete, saturate the cord with superglue (I won't cover all the reasonable precautions here). It will turn into a hard, stiff plastic bowl that looks like macrame cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do a quick experiment with a short length of cord to see if you could substantially reduce the amount of superglue needed but still add significant stiffness (I've never tried it the following way): Make the bed with the Elmer's as planned (wrap the beach ball first with polyethylene). Once the Elmer's is completely dry, the cord may still be porous enough to absorb some superglue and harden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe epoxy and superglue are pet safe after they're cured. But cat smelling ability is better than people's. If you use either, give it several days after you can no longer smell any chemicals before gifting it to the cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2023-01-13T06:39:47.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11384" CreationDate="2023-01-13T20:04:44.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were asked to replicate that design I would use copper wire to form an armature, and air dry clay to give it body. To give it that smooth effect I would either use melted wax or UV pouring resin, with a high gloss varnish over the final paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-01-13T20:04:44.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11447" CreationDate="2023-01-14T10:40:29.673" Score="4" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;My balcony is a bit small so I had to buy a smaller hammock stand and retie the hammock knot in order for it to fit in the smaller stand, it looked approximately like the image I appended below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the knot was made approximately like this, but I know there are steps missing and I hope someone here might know the name of the knot and the details of tying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hammock has a hem with small cutouts in it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go through the hem with the cordage (end bit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drag out small loops in each cutout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go through the loops with the cordage (end bit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beautiful hammock knot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not nail down step 5 very good so my knot is quite ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image I found that looked similar to how it was...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tTIdJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tTIdJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Knot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the prettier of the two knots I made...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNwmN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNwmN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My good attempt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11392" LastEditorUserId="11392" LastEditDate="2023-01-14T18:06:37.793" LastActivityDate="2023-01-15T06:01:35.243" Title="How to tie the knot at the end of a hammock?" Tags="|knots|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11446" CreationDate="2023-01-14T20:54:52.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best books on knotwork ever written is the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ashley Book of Knots&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, and the hammock knots are on page 588. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://ia801904.us.archive.org/35/items/TheAshleyBookOfKnots/the%20ashley%20book%20of%20knots.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to a pdf version of the book.&lt;/a&gt;  While this book tells you all you need to know, I am pretty sure it is not written in a way you can understand unless you work through a much bigger part of the book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not as professional but easier to understand are these two pages, text in Dutch: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.knoopenzo.nl/hangmat/7.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Easier but less smooth.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.knoopenzo.nl/hangmat/8.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Harder but nicer.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far the link answers. Now the how-to without the pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undo the mass of string between the eye and the fabric of the hammock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tie one temporary string or use a bit of sticky tape just below the eye (the bit which is neat in your second photo), and one just below where you want to stop the covering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now take one long length of string, and tie a common wipping with it. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/common-whipping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See how it is done, in pictures and animated.&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=common%20whipping%20instructions&amp;amp;oq=common%20wipping%20&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0i13i512l2j0i22i30l5j0i15i22i30j0i22i30.5751j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_qBXDY5rSKoiB9u8P8pmHiAU_27&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video of the knot.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should help you with the bit you did not manage before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will help you if you keep a bit more space between the fabric and the eye of the hammock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-15T06:01:35.243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-15T06:01:35.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11426" CreationDate="2023-01-16T10:38:27.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a fundamental level, heat insulation means trapping hot air around an object (or person) and keeping cool air away from the object (or person). With that in mind I tested a few knitting patterns in a completely subjective and unscientific experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aspects that increase the heat insulation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a fuzzy, fluffy yarn. The diameter of the core may be even less important than the diameter of the fuzz.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's better to make the knitting too big than too small. If the knitting needs to stretch in order to fit the object or person, you lose insulating air layers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a knitting pattern that results in several layers of yarn. The best patterns in my test are double knitting (double layers in all of the knitting) and English rib (double layers in half of each rib).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create ridges or ribs that don't lay flat against the hot surface. This traps additional air. The best patterns in my test are cable knitting and English rib.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the end &lt;strong&gt;English rib (aka Brioche) turned out to be the best pattern for me&lt;/strong&gt; after all. However, it may be problematic for some applications because it stretches insanely wide. If that is the case for you, &lt;strong&gt;double knitting is the best alternative&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-01-16T10:38:27.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11442" CreationDate="2023-01-18T23:49:51.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use  baking soda with the super glue it will set rock hard. Sprinkle baking soda first, then saturate it with super glue. Do that in layers until you get the hardness you are looking for.&#xA;Try it on something  else first because you will be surprised at how the 2 react together and become like concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16286" LastActivityDate="2023-01-18T23:49:51.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5427" CreationDate="2023-01-20T19:11:30.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key issue here is probably that your trying to mold something so thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get round the curing issue with two part casting resin by using an external heat source. I regularly cast very thin pieces using generic two part clear  casting resin by mixing the resin in a jug that's allowed to sit in a bowl of hot water for several minutes and then leaving the mold next to a heat source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, objects that are cast so thinly will either be brittle if mixed for hardness, or will bend\warp if mixed to avoid being brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No resin on the market that I am aware of will be suitable for anything the size of a sword of that description. It's one of the reasons that cosplayers typically use other materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use resin, my suggestion would be to purchase a clear acrylic rod to run down the center of the mold to give it strength, and then to cast the individual pieces to fit around it, and to make the sword considerably thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would caution that even if you are successful you may have difficulty being allowed to carry a resin sword at a competition or a convention. Your sword would have a very thin, and could fall foul of rules prohibiting anything that can carry an edge. If the edge of your blade is less than about 5mm thick, it could be classed as a &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; weapon. A resin dagger with a 3mm edge absolutely can kill someone. It would also likely shatter if you knocked it against pretty much anything hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your model is too thin to vacuum form, you could possibly pay to have it 3D printed using transparent PLA but it wouldn't be perfectly transparent, or you could cut it from single sheet of clear acrylic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you I would look at the reason why you wanted it to be clear. For example, if it's supposed to be made of ice you may be better off cutting it from acrylic and painting it to look like ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the sword to be &amp;quot;invisible&amp;quot; such as Death's blade from the Discworld franchise, then consider using knit wire to represent the outline of a blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe that the material that you want, for the purpose that you want, exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T19:11:30.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10523" CreationDate="2023-01-20T19:14:30.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend on the type of detergent, and the type of paint used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, an alcohol or oil based paint won't take evenly to a surface that has detergent residue on it. You may experience blotching, pealing, or uneven drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard acrylic paint would take more or less normally so long as the surface was dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-01-20T19:14:30.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-22T09:29:42.483" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rANdJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rANdJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/art_iusupov/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;art_iusupov&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you help me to identify this type of art style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-01-23T07:30:07.407" LastActivityDate="2023-03-25T00:02:30.297" Title="What is this art style called?" Tags="|drawing|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11456" CreationDate="2023-01-22T23:18:51.847" Score="2" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this pattern and/or how do I make it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7MQQa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7MQQa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume it is plain weaving with a loom, but I am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16311" LastActivityDate="2023-01-23T07:12:37.047" Title="What is the name of this pattern?" Tags="|pattern-drafting|weaving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11455" CreationDate="2023-01-23T07:12:37.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bracelet is done using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_weave&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;plain weave&lt;/a&gt; (also called tabby weave, linen weave or taffeta weave), which goes over one thread and under the next one alternatingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The patches of color initially looked like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basketweave_(weaving)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;basket weave&lt;/a&gt; to me, but looking closely you see that they are simply embroidered with a different color over the plain weave ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recreate something like this you'll need a simple loom, which can be bought or crafted from things like cardboard (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theweavingloom.com/how-to-make-a-cardboard-loom/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this example by The Weaving Loom&lt;/a&gt;) or a wooden frame (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.simplyhandmadestudios.com/blog/the-loom-how-to-make-a-weaving-loom&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this example by Simply Handmade Studios&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-01-23T07:12:37.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11454" CreationDate="2023-01-23T07:33:14.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has realistic proportions, and emphasizes shading and tonality through hatching and delineating clusters of shadow.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It focuses on details, on characteristics of the sitter, so it's very likely (intended as) a portrait (and not a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tronie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;type&lt;/a&gt;), yet the overall impression is one of swiftness, of rapid gestures, and intentionally made to look like a sketch (intentionally, because this was posted as-it-is, in a clean state, and because the image is well-balanced and in the same stage throughout—indeed, all the drawings on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/art_iusupov/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the artist's Instagram&lt;/a&gt; are in this style).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as this is not a personal style of the artist, I'd say this is illustration done in the style of &lt;strong&gt;concept design/design concept&lt;/strong&gt;: it's a rapid but clear construction of a specific subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following are the first results currently shown on the Google Images page when searching for 'concept design drawing':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFry6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mFry6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first results on Hoogle Images search page for the mentioned search term&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;click image for larger version&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, this is only an attempt to frame it within existing, broader styles—this could very well be the artist's personal and idiosyncratic style (but in that case, they seem to be influenced by conceptual design illustrations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-02-22T23:55:54.223" LastActivityDate="2023-02-22T23:55:54.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-23T15:11:48.997" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use AI to transform some of my pictures into this exact style and was hence wondering how this style is called. Thanks for any help/ideas!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rZ2N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rZ2N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tarockcard&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O595093/tarot-card-f-piatnik/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image from tarot card published by F. Piatnik &amp;amp; Söhne&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16314" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-02-14T04:35:32.300" LastActivityDate="2023-02-14T04:35:32.300" Title="What is the art style of this picture called?" Tags="|style-identification|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2023-01-24T23:55:29.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-24T19:08:02.563" Score="4" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a giant unopened bucket of HTR 386 resin, but I don't know what this plastic half-circle thing is on the top of the lid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MRrG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MRrG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;resin bucket lid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's surrounded by a solid metal circle, and the plastic half-circles lift up a little at the sides, but that seems to be all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've contacted the company, but no response yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16318" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-01-24T21:08:48.537" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T18:18:30.453" Title="What is this thing on top of my bucket of resin?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11459" CreationDate="2023-01-24T21:08:15.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lid to the pouring spout :) I know them from cans of turpentine. Those two plastic semi-circles can be lifted to give a better grip when unscrewing the lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture gives a better ...picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnB9b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnB9b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/UTB8SR8utlahduJk43Jaq6zM8FXar/206319027/UTB8SR8utlahduJk43Jaq6zM8FXar.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most images of versions of the rectangular tin cans that often feature them lead to dead links, so I've not been able to find a name for this kind of plugs yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-01-25T18:18:30.453" LastActivityDate="2023-01-25T18:18:30.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-26T05:46:19.173" Score="6" ViewCount="2588" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a suitable tape for permanently joining pieces of cardboard or paper together, that can then have paint (or other finish) applied to it just as it could to the paper/card itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve been making some polyhedra out of cardboard—nothing fancy, just corrugated stuff cut from boxes, joined together with some painter’s tape that I had handy. This was originally in the nature of a prototype, before I draw up something to be printed on paper or card, complete with tabs for gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intended context is a school classroom. I’d like to make, or let students make, something reasonably sturdy that will last a few months, sitting around. (If I can make something more durable that will last me a few &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt;, so much the better, but that’s a lesser consideration.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the more time I spent on this prototype, assembling the pieces with tape, the more I liked being able to use tape instead of glue. It covers the joins, and it’s easier to apply to the final joint than trying to press down a tab that’s on the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the object!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble with painter’s/masking tape is that it’s meant to be peeled off, and so it doesn’t stick very securely. Already some of the edges on the earliest pieces are peeling up. But the more permanent tapes I have (or know of) have a plastic surface. I’d like the finished object to take paint, or pencil, or whatever—so students can decorate their work freely, and I can add some visual appeal (or mathematical info) to mine. And I’d like to avoid having to wrap it in a paper coat first! I want the tape to essentially give the same surface as paper or card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own searching hasn’t turned anything up. I did learn that masking tapes come in different adhesive strengths, so maybe just picking a stronger tape would serve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16324" LastEditorUserId="16324" LastEditDate="2023-01-27T14:23:55.710" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T14:23:55.710" Title="Paintable tape for joining paper or cardboard?" Tags="|adhesives|paper|cardboard|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11276" CreationDate="2023-01-26T07:32:38.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Testing demonstrated that high heat triggered the symptom, leading to a solution of avoiding the heat. The self-answer speculates on the underlying mechanism, which if correct, suggests that this is a dependable solution. Room temperature curing appears to avoid the problem, but the suggested reason isn't characteristic of silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ordinarily, the &amp;quot;why&amp;quot; wouldn't matter as long as the solution works. However, there is an alternate explanation for the symptom. If correct, it suggests that the silicone and resin aren't incompatible. Their working together may rely a bit on meticulous care and luck. If that's the case, using them together could lead to occasional failures of the same kind with a room temperature cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manufacturer, the Limino silicone uses a platinum cure chemistry. Many materials inhibit the cure of this chemistry; see this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dow.com/en-us/faq/platinum-catalyzed-silicone-inhibitors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list from Dow&lt;/a&gt;. It takes only trace amounts to inhibit the cure. If the resin contains any of these substances, or produces any during its cure, it will be in the master. Cleaning the surface won't affect what is inside the master.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even fully-cured resin can exude materials. That happens faster at higher temperatures. If you clean the surface, mold it, and the silicone cures before the master exudes any of it, you're home free. But if trace amounts migrate to the resin surface before the silicone cures, it would inhibit the cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems like a plausible explanation for why the silicone that is in contact with the resin has a film of uncured material when cured in a hot place. This can be verified as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the resin master and leave it in the same hot location for longer than the silicone was there (you're just determining whether or not anything migrates to the surface, so the longer you leave it there, the more likely you'll see it; you can repeat the test later with shorter times to calibrate the operational window). Then apply some of the silicone and cure it at room temperature. See if the problem is replicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is, it means the resin and silicone aren't compatible. You can get away with using them together as long as conditions are within certain limits, but you're always at risk of wasting expensive silicone if the cleaning isn't good enough, or the cure takes too long, or the temperature is higher than normal, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you determine that the materials aren't compatible, you might consider choosing a different solution. Since you're probably locked into the resin (it could be that any resin for that machine would have similar issues), an obvious choice would be to use a silicone with a different curing chemistry. Other options could be the subject of another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-26T22:58:10.717" LastActivityDate="2023-01-26T22:58:10.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2023-01-26T11:17:32.350" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's carton sealing tape that's basically kraft paper, or two layers of paper with embedded threads for extra strength, with glue on one side. You typically wet the glue to activate it. It's used for shipping cartons, so it holds up pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main caveat is that for permanence, you need to do a good job of wetting the glue and making sure it's well-adhered. That would work well for corrugated cardboard or chipboard. It might be a bit much for card stock. The tape is ubiquitous in the US. Your profile shows that you're in Australia. If this didn't come to mind, maybe it isn't commonly used in Australia?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question mentions paper and card stock as well. For lighter materials like that, you could make your own tape with paper strips and a glue stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other lighter duty option that comes to mind is variations on double-sided tape. Some types dispense like tape, you apply it, then peel off the top layer, which is some form of release film. Some others come in an applicator dispenser. You run the applicator over the surface and it dispenses a ribbon of adhesive that is ready to use. Use that in combination with a paper strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can prefold the strip down the middle to aid in alignment. This is basically the paper and glue stick option, but a little faster and with less mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, since the models don't need the kind of strength of a shipping box, the lighter-duty tape would probably be fine for the cardboard, too. The main thing to watch with recycled corrugated cardboard or chipboard is that they can collect a lot of dust on the surface in storage and use, which degrades how well the adhesive sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joachim's comment on paper tape warping is an important consideration. Paper that's glued down should be fine. But portions that aren't well adhered could warp or bubble when painted. You would want to test the double-sided tape option for that before using it since there would likely be portions of the paper not glued down. If using a glue stick, you'd need to be careful to get complete coverage. With carton sealing tape, you'd want to be meticulous about getting all the glue well activated and getting the entire piece of tape well adhered to the cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would also be a consideration for using paper for the model. Almost any kind of paint could warp paper segments. With card stock, a few very light coats of non-water-based spray paint should be OK, but that might warp if painted with water-based paint. The surface of corrugated cardboard can distort if it gets wet, so don't saturate it with a heavy coat of water-based paint. It does better with several light coats of non-water-based spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris H makes a great suggestion in a comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut strips from A4 or letter printer labels. The biggest aren't quite full sheet but they'd get you to about 25cm long. Some use really quite strong glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That saves you the mess and time of working with a glue stick or double-sided tape. Just to take that idea a step farther, depending on the size of the segments, the needed tape dimensions might be close enough that a standard precut label would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-01-26T18:59:55.573" LastActivityDate="2023-01-26T18:59:55.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-26T11:52:27.590" Score="1" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started making epoxy resin jewellery as a hobby, but I'm having trouble getting it to not be sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used the AB resin 1:1 instead of 2:1 and that takes ages to set and is still sticky. I've now gotten a UV resin and with light it's getting hard but still sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where am I going wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16325" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-01-26T17:35:13.977" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T19:48:35.757" Title="Epoxy resin won't dry and remains sticky" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11465" CreationDate="2023-01-26T13:46:17.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;2-part epoxy must &lt;strong&gt;always be mixed in the correct ratio&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chemical components of 2-part epoxy are designed to bond with each other. Each unbound component is liquid, but as soon as they bond, they become solid. Intentionally using a different mixing ratio results in unbound (liquid) components left in the final object, so part of it is still liquid. You always get the best results with 2-part epoxy if you mix it as precisely as possible according to manufacturer guidelines. Please keep in mind that some ratios are given in weight and some in volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV resin is also a mix of chemicals that is initially liquid, but the components only react with each other if exposed to UV light. Depending on the chemicals used (for example this is very common in UV nail gels), this reaction does produce some by-product that forms a sticky, almost oily film on top of the resin. If you pour a very thick layer of UV resin, this by-product cannot escape to the surface and is trapped in the resin instead. For UV nail gels it's recommended to wipe the cured resin with nail polish remover after it's cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Chris H mentioned in the comments, UV resin also requires a certain amount of light to cure. Shining a small UV flashlight on it may not be enough to cure the resin properly, even if you shine it for longer.&#xA;Also keep in mind that opaque or colored UV resins need a lot more light and longer to cure because the color blocks the UV light from reaching deeper layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-01-27T06:09:23.223" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T06:09:23.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2023-01-26T15:01:14.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try a paper self-adhesive or gummed (water-activated) &lt;strong&gt;hinging tape&lt;/strong&gt;. These are designed for framing applications, and tend to adhere well to paper; they're similar to the carton sealing tape described by fixer1234, but without the reinforcing threads. It's rather easy to get your hands on, as it's extensively used in framing applications; I'd suggest sticking to paper over linen (search for &amp;quot;paper hinging tape&amp;quot; instead of just &amp;quot;hinging tape&amp;quot; to find sources available to you). It should take paint equally as well as your paper and/or cardboard base, as it's also paper-based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2023-01-26T15:01:14.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2023-01-26T20:28:26.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drywall tape is cheap and pretty permanent.  It is designed to have drywall mud applied over it, but paint sticks to it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16329" LastActivityDate="2023-01-26T20:28:26.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2023-01-27T06:39:38.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our first aid kit there's always a roll of sticky tape to apply wound dressings. Since we almost never use the first aid kit, this tape is used for various different situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base material is a thin, lightweight fabric, so it's extremely bendable but doesn't tear. There are woven and non-woven varieties. Since the non-woven ones stretch, I suggest using a woven one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glue also sticks much better than most standard sticky tapes or paper labels (we use it to label freezer containers. Paper labels simply fall off in the freezer). You can write on the tape with a pen, so I assume you can also paint it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what this tape is called in English. I found terms like &amp;quot;surgical tape&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;cloth tape&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;fixing plaster&amp;quot; (might be a bad translation). It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdS9C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdS9C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T06:39:38.547" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2023-01-27T12:21:32.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want your &amp;quot;art&amp;quot; to last a long time, I would exclude any ribbon product with glue on one side from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you should find a good glue for paper, which will not die in a few months / years. Then make your own &amp;quot;ribbon&amp;quot; of paper - cut long stretches of paper from something. You might even find for purchase such ribbons - without the glue. Then apply the glue, apply a ribbon of mesh of fiberglass (used in constructions and home repairs), then the paper ribbon. Make sure that the fiberglass mesh is fully &amp;quot;immersed&amp;quot; (covered) with glue, before adding the paper ribbon. Paint as needed when it is cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the glue is paintable when cured, you might not even need to use a paper ribbon. Just glue the fiberglass mesh on one side of the carton box, let it cure, glue it to the other side, let it cure. at the end, if needed apply another level of glue (it will also minimize the height of the bumps created by the fiberglass). Paint as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look for additional artistic effect, use some fabric instead of fiberglass. Hemp sack comes first to mind. Either cut it as ribbons, or use it to cover large areas. Apply it as I described before. he surface of your art will now have the texture of the fabric (hemp sack or something else), and the color of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might even use different fabrics on different areas / edges, for more artistic flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing you were doing at the beginning with those tabs was actually one of the better things you could to - quality wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2023-01-27T12:31:56.073" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T12:31:56.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8559" CreationDate="2023-01-27T16:14:10.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend on the specific paint and it's pigment density. If the paint has a high pigment density then mixing it with a color-free acrylic medium should give you a wash that can be placed over other high pigment acrylic paint without significant reactivation so long as they are allowed to dry suffiicently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the paint has a low pigment density then you will struggle to achieve an even appearance and may just have pooling and blotching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pigment density can vary significantly between colors so you would need to experiment to find your ideal mix. You will likely have more success with dark colors than light colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T16:14:10.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11465" CreationDate="2023-01-27T19:48:35.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presuming that you've mixed the resin to the correct ratio, mixed the two parts together sufficiently, and allowed the correct amount of time for them to set, it's possible that your resin is too cold. This can slow down the curing process, causing it to be sticky long after it should have fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, place them somewhere warm and allow them additional time to cure. Overnight next to a radiator, for example. But not too close in case they warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't the case, you should look at any additives that you are using to color the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you are using alcohol based inks that aren't properly mixed in  with the resin, are allowed to sit on the surface of the resin, or if you use too much alcohol based ink and have changed the composition of the resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you're experiencing the same problem with both UV and two part epoxy resin I would suggest the latter of these two may be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-01-27T19:48:35.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11231" CreationDate="2023-01-28T12:09:23.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic pegs cut from a single piece of material will typically be more resistant than pure epoxy pegs (except for scratching), particularly with a twisting motion as epoxy has little elasticity. It will snap when acyclic will bend or tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy with a metal or acrylic core can overcome most of these issues and provide a more resilient peg, presuming that the core is thick enough and is of a material with sufficient flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This of course comes with the general &amp;quot;you get what you pay for&amp;quot; caveat. A cheap A will usually be less resilient than a higher quality B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-01-28T12:09:23.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-29T10:39:47.083" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I just stuff it with whatever filling it's just gonna be a sausage, I need the belly to be flat, and the back convex. Is there filling\stuffing that comes in sheets maybe? Preferably the one that springs back into shape well, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16353" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-01-29T14:47:20.747" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T06:45:35.110" Title="How would you make a plushie's bottom flat?" Tags="|sewing|stuffing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11475" CreationDate="2023-01-29T16:19:04.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A potential solution would be high density polyurethane foam used in furniture making. It comes in sheets that can be easily cut to size or to a specific shape with a hot knife (Normal disclaimer regarding fumes and ventilation applies) or junior hacksaw saw blade, and it comes in a variety of firmness. It also returns to shape when deformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search for &amp;quot;upholstery foam&amp;quot;. It's a common item on ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of upholstery foam is that it can come in hypoallergenic and fire retardant versions. Making it especially safe for plush toys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-01-29T16:19:04.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11475" CreationDate="2023-01-29T19:10:08.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/11476/8251&quot;&gt;Aaargh Zombies's answer&lt;/a&gt; is a good idea, and upholstery foam comes in big, thick pieces, so you could fill almost any size plushie by cutting one fill piece to size and shape. It tends to be very dense and sometimes stiff because it's designed to support body weight. If that is too stiff for you, a variation on that theme would be to use low density foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get sheets of low density foam up to several inches thick. To fill the plushie with it, you'd probably need to cut a number of layers. You can cut the stuff with a scissors or sharp knife, so you could shape it without a hot knife (make each layer the shape needed for that slice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small plushies, you might be able to use a big sponge of the type often used for washing cars. Shape one side with a scissors for the convex back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tiny plushies, you could work with cheap foam kitchen sponges in layers as described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-01-29T20:01:42.530" LastActivityDate="2023-01-29T20:01:42.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11475" CreationDate="2023-01-30T06:45:35.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One traditional way is to cover a piece of cardboard that's cut to size with fabric and sewing that in as the bottom. This gives you a nice flat bottom to stand / sit your plushy up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is too stiff for your taste, you could use fusable interfacing to stiffen up the bottom. There are many different kinds of interfacing, but you want the stiff kind (intended for heavy fabrics) for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to add a layer of stiff fabric on the inside of the plushy. Use anything you can find that has some stiffness to it or stiffen up some leftover fabric yourself. If the plushy doesn't need to be washed, you can mix 50% water with 50% white glue or school glue or wood glue and apply that to the fabric. If you need to wash the plushy, you need to use an acrylic-based product like ModPodge, acrylic gel or varnish. Then cut the bottom piece from the stiffened fabric and from the desired plushy fabric and sew both pieces in place as if they were only one layer. Trim the seam allowance of the stiffened fabric very short to avoid weird creases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T06:45:35.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-31T10:03:21.430" Score="2" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am really confused regarding this topic. Suppose I want to draw a cone. There are two ways to draw it, upside down and the standard upside up. Now as a viewer from above, how would I draw these figures on a 2D paper. To me both diagram look same. Note shading is not allowed, only contour lines!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially what I am asking is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall that to show the illusion of depth, we let parallel lines coverage. My question is the converse, how should the parallel lines behave when I want to show the illusion of height/protrusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16370" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T17:24:51.453" Title="How to show depth and elevation using contours lines in sketches?" Tags="|sketching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2023-01-31T12:30:10.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's specifically a topographic map, then for depressions you use contours with small lines pointing towards holes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7VdI.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7VdI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image of the countour&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12752" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T12:30:10.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-01-31T14:35:47.950" Score="6" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large body of work that I need to complete, and I had been using Stuart Semple's Black 2.0 and Black 3.0. It seems he's out of stock, at the moment, and I'm on a deadline. I have not done much experimentation with other matte black media, so I'm hoping I can learn from some of the community's experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good alternatives to Black 3.0, Mussou Black, and the strictly-licensed VantaBlack, for a very dark, very matte, black paint? Each of these is out of stock or prohibitively expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more familiar with acrylic paints, and their fast drying time is helpful, but I'm not opposed to other media, so long as I can get an impasto texture from it, and it's not prohibitively difficult to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to get similar results from a high-quality PBk6 (Carbon black) or PBk7 (Lamp Black) acrylic paint? I presume that Semple's black is little more than carbon in a matte acrylic medium, but there's clearly something about it that you can't reproduce with Windsor-Newton and a matte spray finish... or am I mistaken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: For others' reference, I stumbled across this guy's YouTube video, which shows the process of making black paint to be (unsurprisingly) substantially more involved than is immediately obvious. Even knowing what he does, he was not able to get a pure black, and it took an enormous amount of work to grind it to a usable consistency: (Channel: &amp;quot;The Alchemical Arts&amp;quot; Video title: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJ9UDPaKBA8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Not so simple Charcoal Black pigment!&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16373" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2023-02-01T14:51:42.610" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T16:22:41.780" Title="Alternatives to the most-hyped ultra-black paints?" Tags="|material-selection|paint|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11417" CreationDate="2023-01-31T14:52:31.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two words describe two different aspects of the work. &amp;quot;Gesture&amp;quot; describes the technique, &amp;quot;sketching&amp;quot; describes the degree of completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Gesture drawing&amp;quot; is a technique that emphasizes using the motions of larger body joints, instead of just the fingers. It is a popular starting point for the beginning of many types of drawing, but it is also a technique that has been used to execute finished works. Its usefulness as a beginning step is both physical, as well as intellectual. Physically, it is literally loosening joints and warming up muscles to get ready for some serious work. Intellectually, it is encouraging the mind to focus on large-scale light and shadow placement, rather than small-scale details. The result is often characterized by large sweeping strokes, rather than small, precise strokes. (Keep in mind, it's a spectrum that goes from &amp;quot;very tight&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;very loose,&amp;quot; not a dichotomy that is either gestural or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Sketching&amp;quot; is a phase of the thinking/planning process wherein you create a small-scale or quickly-executed version of what your final might look like. This doesn't have to be a drawing. Often sculptors make &amp;quot;sketches&amp;quot; that are low-cost (in terms of time and effort as much as money) maquettes or dioramas that are easy to repeat or modify. (Again, it's useful to remember that this is a spectrum that runs from &amp;quot;half-baked thoughts on the back of a napkin&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;highly polished and almost done,&amp;quot; not a dichotomy that is either a sketch or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Gesture sketching&amp;quot; then, would be an easily-executed experiment/test/prototype that is executed using a gestural technique. One benefit of doing a gestural SKETCH in particular, is that it's cost is low enough that you can throw it away and do another one, without being too heartbroken about the loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16373" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T14:52:31.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2255" CreationDate="2023-01-31T15:36:32.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technical term for the technique he's demonstrating is &amp;quot;craquelure.&amp;quot; You might get some mileage out of researching how this technique is typically achieved. Craquelure is commonly done in ceramics, which might not be useful to you, but there are other media that achieve the same thing in ways that might be useful for your application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way that I'm familiar with to achieve the &amp;quot;craquelure&amp;quot; effect he demonstrates is to add something to the paint that will shrink as it dries/cures. A common trick in prop-making is to mix water-based glue in with water-based paint. The common basis makes them mix well, but as the glue dries it will shrink and crack. Many glues are specifically formulated to stay the same volume as they dry, so you may need to experiment to find a glue that will actually shrink enough for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if a flour and water paste would work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16373" LastActivityDate="2023-01-31T15:36:32.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2023-01-31T15:47:51.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things you might be talking about. In topography and other formal diagramming systems, there are conventional standards for indicating elevation changes. Affaltar provides some information about that in their answer. If you're interested in diagramming, it would be helpful to know what kind of diagramming, and which discipline you're working in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more &amp;quot;artistic&amp;quot; exercise of drawing contours has less to do with execution, and more to do with training your brain. The practice is an exercise in picturing an object in your mind, associating that object with the outline on the page, and then imagining what lines would look like if they were wrapped around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that your brain learns to recognize the contours you've drawn, as much as it learns to produce the contours you will draw. This practice of drawing is more about holding a real object in your mind, and representing reality, than it is about providing information about the shape of the object. It's easy for REAL contour lines around a REAL object to produce optical illusions that make it hard to tell what shape the object is. So, if your contours look &amp;quot;wrong&amp;quot; or odd, one reason might be that it's one of those real situations where the contours in real life produce an optical illusion, or are difficult to &amp;quot;read.&amp;quot; Another reason, is that your brain is still learning to interpret the lines you've drawn. They might BE correct, but LOOK wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, that's a very &amp;quot;artsy-fartsy&amp;quot; answer, so to be a bit more practical: don't forget that your contours should be around a single axis, and they should be the same distance from each other on whatever axis you've chosen to draw them around. Drawing your contours in perspective is also a good way to help the shape &amp;quot;read&amp;quot; more easily. If you're drawing contours in perspective, things can get a little complicated, which is where the brain-training comes into play. Once I get a minute, I'll see if I can upload some examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll reiterate: This is for drawing that is not interested in being restricted to a particular diagramming paradigm. If you're interested in diagramming, your solutions will be related to the conventions of that particular type of diagramming (e.g. architectural blueprints, engineering designs, topographical maps, etc.). Similarly, if you're wanting to draw a cylinder, directly from the top, orthographically, you're going to have a hard time making it look like anything more than concentric circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from those qualifiers, here are some tips and tricks to help make contour drawing a bit more straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optical Illusions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of an optical illusion I mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/84vfU.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/84vfU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Optical Illusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, we can't tell if the shape in the plane is a bump or a dimple, because there's just not enough information drawn. It's not wrong, but if we add some information about where the viewer's eye is relative to the plane, it will &amp;quot;read&amp;quot; more easily. One way to add such information is with a horizon line, or by drawing in the thickness of the plane's edges, which will give our eyes a clue about where the perspective lines are converging to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Single Axis:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, it's tempting to draw contours that following the &amp;quot;cylindrical&amp;quot; shapes of an object, because they're convenient. This is certainly a valid style, and has its place, but as an analytical exercise for practicing, it's not as useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWG7x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWG7x.png&quot; alt=&quot;Not Single Axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Studying the 3D shape of an object is often more useful when restricting ourselves to a single axis (even if it's not a conventional vertical or horizontal axis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/opRme.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/opRme.png&quot; alt=&quot;Single Axis&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evenly Spaced:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slightly more exaggerated version of the bump/dimple on a plane. You can see that our contours are made at even intervals, but the curves that trace the bump/dimple end up getting close to each other because of how perspective distorts them. Making the contours an even distance will allow the distortions due to perspective to sell the shape better. Uneven &amp;quot;cuts&amp;quot; make it hard to tell whether the distortions are due to perspective, or irregular spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TL1cp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TL1cp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Evenly Spaced&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some details to pay attention to that will help sell the dimensionality of your contours are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drawing in perspective:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of your contours flat discs in space. Their shape will change depending on whether they are above the viewer's eye level, or below it. Thinking of discs that are stacked like a column right in front of you, just a vertical pillar: one of the discs far above the viewer's eye level will appear very round. The same disc close to the viewer's eye level, right in front of them, will look like just a straight line. The same is true with your contours. A contour that's around a part of the object far above the viewer will look more like its cross-section. A contour that's closer to the viewer's eye level will look more like a straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, with this cylinder drawn orthographically, the curves are all the same shape, because they're not drawn in perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a9Z8L.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a9Z8L.png&quot; alt=&quot;Orthographic&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this cylinder drawn in perspective, the curves that are farther below the eyeline have a more extreme curve to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wLhgL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wLhgL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Perspective&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perspective Occlusion:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When contours are receding away from the viewer in the right way, one or both ends of the contour may be occluded by the sides of the object. In terms of &amp;quot;line&amp;quot; the contour will simply merge with the silhouette, instead of showing a slight bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On parts of the shape that are closer, we may see a slight bend at the end of the contour line as it begins to wrap around the object. We may even see the whole contour altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lt4UT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lt4UT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Perspective Occlusion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16373" LastEditorUserId="16373" LastEditDate="2023-02-02T16:11:43.377" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T16:11:43.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2023-02-01T03:05:51.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of basic principles that define how contour lines behave. Let me start with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you hold a ruler vertically in front of your face. You see the full height of the ruler:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxwqE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxwqE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tilt the ruler away from you, it appears shorter because some of its length is used in a direction away from you, which doesn't affect it's vertical appearance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obJnF.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obJnF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tilted it to horizontal, it would disappear (well, except for the physical end of the ruler, which has some thickness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ruler has a flat surface. If you tilt it away from you, not just the ruler's length gets shorter. The markings also get shorter (closer together). But the spacing between them stays uniform. The marking are still evenly spaced, just less distance between them because they all fit in a reduced visual height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A curved surface is different. For this example, think of a globe of the earth. Imagine we were to slice the globe in half, cutting from the north pole to the south pole, and then looked at the cut face. And imagine that a clock face is superimposed on that, with the north pole being 12:00 and the south pole 6:00. The hours would divide the edge of the globe's surface into equal lengths (the distance around the cut edge of the globe would be the same between every hour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We mark the hour locations and put the globe back together. Then we create a &amp;quot;latitude&amp;quot; line running through 1:00 and 11:00, another latitude line running through 2:00 and 10:00, and the equator runs through 3:00 and 9:00:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQLN1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQLN1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did that by hand on a spreadsheet, so it isn't perfectly to scale, but it shows the idea (ignore that the remaining pictures are even worse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look down at the globe, directly at the north pole, the curvature affects what you see. The curvature doesn't have a big effect on the view down to the 1:00-11:00 latitude; not much of the surface is in a direction away from you. Between the 2:00-10:00 latitude and the equator, the surface is oriented in a direction mostly away from you, so little of it affects the dimensions you can see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MlS0t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MlS0t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, each of those latitudes is the same distance apart on the surface, but your view looking down at the north pole is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Raaab.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Raaab.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I warned you the drawings get worse. The contour lines aren't evenly spaced, but the spacing isn't random (that point might be hard to see with just the couple of lines in the diagram). The spacing follows a progression of closer to farther apart based on the curvature. On a complex surface, like say a face, the changing directions of the features will be reflected in the contour lines changing the distance between them and changing the progression of separation distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the way contour lines work is that they represent lines an equal distance apart along the actual surface. If the surface is flat, the lines will be evenly spaced. If it is curved, the spacing will follow a progression. If the surface is tilted or curved perpendicular to your view, the lines will appear closer together. The steeper the tilt, the closer the lines will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how does it work with a cone? A cone is both curved and flat. If the cone is vertical, you can't draw verticalish contour lines (at least in the most intuitive way), because the surface goes from a wide base to a point; lines on the surface wouldn't be parallel, they would converge at the point. The most intuitive way to get parallel lines is to run them in the circular direction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bSGbe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bSGbe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the height direction, the cone behaves like a flat surface, the lines remain equally spaced. It doesn't matter whether the cone is right-side-up or up-side-down. But the portion of the contour lines facing you follow the same shape as the base, the circumference just gets smaller as you go up the cone. The contour lines show the shape of the cone by their curvature, similar to the base, and the equal spacing between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/11484/8251&quot;&gt;Matt's answer&lt;/a&gt; points out, you can create parallel lines in other directions on the surface of a cone (even vertical), e.g., the single axis &amp;quot;worm&amp;quot; diagram in that answer. That works just as well. It can be a little less intuitive to create as a first pass at getting the hang of contour lines, so I didn't cover it in this answer, but think of that as &amp;quot;phase 2&amp;quot; of contour lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That answer also makes another important point not to miss. The contour line spacing is affected by the surface's orientation perpendicular to you, but that orientation doesn't have a direction (whether you move towards you or away from you along that orientation doesn't affect the contour line spacing). Many optical illusions are based on this ambiguity. In creating contour lines, you can ignore whether the surface is protruding or receding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-02-02T17:24:51.453" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T17:24:51.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7496" CreationDate="2023-02-02T06:00:43.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s a different pen, but: I checked my Lamy Logo twin pen (pencil + ballpoint) and its attachment points are different for the pencil mechanism and the ballpoint cartridge, so switching them around would be a non-trivial operation, if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The attachment point for the ballpoint is a tube that the cartridge slides into, while the attachment point for the pencil mechanism is a rod that slides inside the pencil. And, having disassembled and re-assembled the pen to check this, I must say that the mechanics do not inspire confidence...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8416" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T06:00:43.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10832" CreationDate="2023-02-02T07:04:00.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your assumption is kind of wrong. There are different techniques to starting and finishing a row that result in different edges. Some of them look uneven but are best to be sewn together, others are neater and more decorative. My go-to technique is to always purl the last stitch, no matter what the pattern says and to always pick up the first stitch without knitting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's also the reason why the first and last stitch are never part of the pattern. For a pattern repeat of 4 stitches you have to cast on 6 - 4 for the pattern and 2 for the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T07:04:00.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-02T20:38:45.107" Score="3" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my current project, I'm trying to create a harmonious color scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at the tools like &amp;quot;Analogous colors&amp;quot; provided on new-age color wheels (RGB, CMYK, CIA Lab, CIA UV) I'm disappointed with the result. The old RBY (red blue yellow) still creates the best result (pleasing &amp;amp; colors look good side by side), but I'm still convinced the base colors (exact tones/hues) used in it aren't perfect. Therefore I want to create my own color system/wheel based on different hues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explanation: A 12-hour color wheel follows a fixed step around the wheel. If the base colors do not use the perfect color tone, a fixed step provides you with the wrong color. As a result, the 12-hour wheel does not look as pleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need to reposition the colors using different base colors to create better distances between them, it would be helpful to create the wheel based on 2 colors aligned at the top and bottom of the wheel. Following this method would produce 2 gradients instead of 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about using Yellow and the real complementary violet/purple as those 2 base colors 12 o clock and 6 o clock. The goal is to create all main colors: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, ~cyan, dark violet, ~brighter violet. I understand you can't get all main colors by simply mixing yellow with purple, but I'm sure with enough creativity we can find out what colors actually are on the other sides of the wheel, but it's not allowed to use one of the new-age color wheels mentioned above for calculations/trial and error. Mixing in real life is the closest we can get to a harmonious wheel, those colors consist of red, yellow, and blue, and we only need to find the correct tones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideas I have so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temporarily we can use red and blue from a color wheel like RYB or NCS and mix/blend it into our base colors. If we repeat this multiple times with blended colors and base colors we could get close to the real tone of red/blue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another way could be to mix the base colors with colors from RYB/NCS, using one color of the first colors produced in the gradient. Now we can repeat the steps mentioned above to blend the colors into our base colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another way could be to trial and error mix red and blue until we get the exact hue of our purple base color, so we could limit the possible reds and blues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Might there exist a way to calculate distances from the wavelengths (visible spectrum)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16397" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2023-02-04T14:44:14.737" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T18:59:43.037" Title="Creating a harmonious color wheel based on a new color system" Tags="|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11495" CreationDate="2023-02-02T22:24:05.253" Score="6" ViewCount="958" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miniature_wargaming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;miniatures wargame&lt;/a&gt;, I wanted trays to carry a number of figures at once around the tabletop. I got a pair of color-coded foam-core presentation boards and cut them up to the desired sizes. The figures are placed per-game and are not permanently attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxGp4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxGp4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trays with miniatures figures on top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem now is that the surface of these presentation boards is very glossy-slick, such that the figures very easily slide off the trays. What's the best option for making the top tray surface permanently rough or sticky to give some traction to the miniature figures (while maintaining the present tray colors)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that adding attachments to the bottom of the miniatures is not an option, as my overall library of miniatures is too large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resolution&lt;/strong&gt;: I used Chris H's suggestion of &amp;quot;repositionable spray glue&amp;quot; and it seems to be working well for me. Big thanks to them, as I hadn't heard of this type of product before. Among the results I'm finding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's extremely easy to apply (just a single swipe per board), and doesn't take very much. I did about 20 trays as an initial test, and still have most of a small can left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just placing the miniatures on the board, and the problem is solved of them generally sliding off the sheer surface when moved. If I press down on them firmly, it's even sticky enough to hold them upside-down usually without falling off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a light enough adhesive that removing the miniatures is effortless, and stacking up the trays for storage and separating them out later is no problem, as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm pretty sure it's not what the product is intended for, but the trays have kept enough stickiness for at least two weeks so far. If they deteriorate at some point, I'll be happy to give them another quick touch-up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastEditorUserId="16398" LastEditDate="2023-03-05T06:42:15.457" LastActivityDate="2023-03-05T06:42:15.457" Title="How can I make a presentation board rough or sticky?" Tags="|cardboard|foam|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2023-02-02T22:37:30.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first approach would be to cover the top surface of the presentation board with felt. It won't be sticky, but it'll keep the pieces from sliding quite so easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that wasn't secure enough, the next thing I'd try is Mod Podge, or another material that dries/cures kid of soft. If you could get a very slightly rubbery surface, it might hold things in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, the obvious choice is double-sided tape, or installing some kind of magnet, hook, or velcro. But those are obviously more work, and a little permanent (if you've gotta install something on the bottom of the figures, too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16373" LastActivityDate="2023-02-02T22:37:30.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2023-02-03T03:29:19.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want something in sheet form with more friction than Matt's felt suggestion, they sell sheets or rolls of rubber webbing that looks like netting or has a loosely woven appearance. Thin versions are sold as drawer liners to keep stuff from sliding around. Thicker versions are sold as non-slip pads for rugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option that would leave a soft rubbery surface: thin silicone caulk to paint consistency with mineral spirits or limonene, paint it on, and let it dry until you can't smell the solvent anymore (might take a couple of days). It will leave a thin rubbery coating. You might want to test it on a scrap piece to ensure the solvent doesn't affect the foam core panel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T03:29:19.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11488" CreationDate="2023-02-03T07:28:59.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Color wheels are not an artistic expression, they are a tool to model of how light (RGB, HSV/HSL and other color models) or paints and inks (YMC, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munsell_color_system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munsell system&lt;/a&gt; and other color systems) are perceived by human observers. In a metaphorical sense the color wheel is to the artist what the table of elements is to the chemist. Chemists don't just sort the table of elements differently because &amp;quot;it would look more balanced&amp;quot;. Artist don't sort the color wheel differently because the common order represents valuable information about how adjacent or opposing colors behave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artists may create different color wheels (or other mixing tables) to use as a reference during their work. their goal isn't to make it look pleasing, but to document how their particular paints behave when mixed together. Since no paint is of one pure color without additives or impurities, every type and brand of color behaves differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a great example from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.virginiasumnerart.com/blog/acrylic-paint-color-wheel-and-comparison&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post by Virginia Sumner&lt;/a&gt;. She created 6 small color wheels with 6 different brands of acrylic paint to check how they mix. Click the image to enlarge.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.virginiasumnerart.com/uploads/1/2/1/8/121814251/colorwheel_2_orig.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eINITm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;6 color wheels created with different brands of paint&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious differences are seen in purple. Some paints created a muddy brown instead of purple, others created a lighter tone. None of them are what I'd call &amp;quot;purple&amp;quot; because the pigments of the paints simply don't reflect pure purple light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How I understand your question, your goal is to create a pleasing artistic representation of the color wheel instead of a tool. Doing this by only mixing primary colors is extremely hard and (in my personal opinion) should be done with CMY inks instead of paints, because they produce the &amp;quot;cleanest&amp;quot;, most vibrant mixed colors. BTW that's exactly how inkjet printers work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to use as many paints as you need to make your color wheel look pleasing. Mixing paints almost never yields a perfect result because pigments don't behave like pure wavelengths of light and paint contains additional substances that can interact and change the tone of the color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the key aspect of your color wheel is harmonics, maybe have a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_Color_System&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Natural&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munsell_color_system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munsell&lt;/a&gt; color systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T07:28:59.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2023-02-03T08:54:55.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anti-slip tape&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They sell this in most hardware stores, it is used in stairs. The top side is not sticky, but provides good friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61uUtFkLxPL._SL1200_.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6856" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T08:54:55.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2023-02-03T17:29:39.183" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get repositionable spray glue. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/v000143932/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M make it, for example,&lt;/a&gt; but there are cheap versions too. They're often used for mounting things like stencils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would essentially turn your foam board into a rigid Post-It, and give you a surface that's actually tacky, rather than just non-slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T17:29:39.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2023-02-03T20:28:21.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cheap and easy option is to get yourself a sheet of self-adhesive rubber pads. They are also known as bumper stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are often used for furniture or smaller objects, to prevent them from slipping (or to keep surfaces safe from scratching). They are sold in many supermarkets and most hardware stores (in Europe, at least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, or as large sheets that you can cut to fit. They are commonly black or transparent (also known as silicon drops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think something like the following would suit your needs, if you find it at around the size of the underside of your miniatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ime6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ime6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://stuhlgleitershop.de/products/anti-rutsch-fusse-schwarz-epdm-selbstklebend&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-02-03T20:28:21.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2023-02-04T13:31:11.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another random idea - silicone baking mats. They're pretty rubbery and non-slippery, and (depending on where you are) might be easier to get than actual rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16419" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T13:31:11.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11500" CreationDate="2023-02-04T13:47:22.780" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly what the genre of this painting is. It looks nice to me, so I hope I could see more of it from other artist as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cidYl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cidYl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16420" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-02-04T14:09:15.143" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T11:14:53.700" Title="What is the art genre of this painting on the T-shirt?" Tags="|painting|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11499" CreationDate="2023-02-04T15:07:54.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Formally it reminds me of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outsider_art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;art brut&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (or the related &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Na%C3%AFve_art&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;primitivism&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;), because of its somewhat crude and naive style. It &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; also be considered &lt;strong&gt;expressionist&lt;/strong&gt;, but it's hard to tell without seeing more art by the artist (and expressionism is a very broad art movement, which might not help you very much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The texture and colour scheme are slightly reminiscent of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Klee&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul Klee&lt;/a&gt;'s work, but the artwork you post is more naive and straightforward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMjff.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMjff.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paul Klee - Abendliche figur - 1935&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Paul Klee, &lt;em&gt;Abendliche figur&lt;/em&gt;, 1935. &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:LaM_Klee_figure_le_soir.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image's content is quite obviously &lt;strong&gt;symbolist&lt;/strong&gt;, though: through easily legible symbols and representations we can deduct the artist's (possible) intention.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The main figure has symbols for a sun and a moon behind their left and right hand, respectively, a heart symbol at around the physical location of their heart, and their belly seemingly occupied by the head of another, squatting figure. Green leaves on both sides suggest a presence of and possible synergy with nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the shirt and the information I found about it online doesn't show an artist, I think this artwork was made by Rob Thomas of Matchbox Twenty himself, as the pieces depicted on other shirts in the Hard Rock Café Signature shirt series &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.brassmonkeyvintage.com/product/1994-hard-rock-cafe-signature-series-edition-don-henley-art-t-shirt-l&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seem&lt;/a&gt; to have been created by their respective artists, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Art brut or outsider art consists of works of art that are usually created by non-art-educated artists, who lack theoretical, historical, and/or formalistic education.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-02-05T11:14:53.700" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T11:14:53.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-04T15:34:26.213" Score="6" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a series of models that have sharp edges, and I want to create a thin line of glitter along them so that the edge will sparkle a specific color when turned under a light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried most of the obvious options, including painting pre-mixed modge podge with glitter on to them with a brush, but I am not happy with how any of them came out as it was difficult to control the concentration\density of the glitter, or to maintain a thin enough line due to the thickness of the glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also considered using glitter pens, but I am unable to find any that have a transparent medium carrying the glitter. They all create colored lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a series of refillable artist's pens designed to use with acrylic paint that have an aperture that's wide enough to carry the glitter that I would like to try to use, but I am uncertain about what medium to use to carry it. Neat PVA is too thick, a mix of PVA and water is too thin and won't give me the control that I need, and most of the thinner glues that I'm aware of dry too quickly and would probably destroy the pens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any suggestions on what I should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs to dry transparent, to adhere to a surface painted with acrylic paint, and be thin enough to apply as if you were drawing a line with a biro while carrying the glitter with it. And it needs to dry slowly enough that it won't just clog the pen aperture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific product, or a way of modifying a specific product that might achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, is there an artists' product that could be used to thin PVA, other than water?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-02-05T10:15:21.333" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T05:55:10.523" Title="Medium to carry glitter in a DIY glitter pen?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11488" CreationDate="2023-02-04T18:59:43.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Can you create a harmonious color wheel?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably, depending on how functional you need it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A conventional 12-hour color wheel is really just a block diagram arranged a circle. It uses the placement geometry of the 12 divisions to show relationships between the colors. The spectral spacing of those colors around the wheel is distorted to force primary colors and complements into their locations on the diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gradients between the primary colors on the wheel are just artifacts of this process. The color distances around the wheel look like whatever they look like as a result. The wheel, when used in the conventional way, wasn't intended as a tool for accurately representing the color distribution of the spectrum, let alone identifying harmonious colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the color wheel is built on true primary colors, it can perform a number of functions. Complementary colors are across from each other, with the black or white point in the middle. The primary colors can be used to create pure desired colors. You can get a sense of whether any secondary colors might be reproduced poorly by those base colors. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the format of the color wheel to plot other combinations of base colors that aren't true primaries and see how they work together, but it would have more limited use. It couldn't perform at least some of those functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't care about most of those functions, you could just use the format to show a circular progression of colors for some other purpose, like a harmonious color scheme. (Depending on the scheme, some of the wheel's features could function.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But consider whether the impetus for this effort is focused in the right place. Is the purpose to create a harmonious scheme of 12 colors, or a system for producing harmonious colors. I'll come back to that later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Are the ideas in the question on-track to create a harmonious color wheel?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, that depends on how functional you need the color wheel to be. Some input on specific points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Limit of two base colors&lt;/strong&gt;  The question suggests starting with two base colors and then using various mechanisms to fill in the other colors. True primary colors, by definition, cannot be made by mixing other colors. So this approach can't be used to create a conventional color wheel, at least one that can perform all of its functions. The question suggests workarounds, which will be discussed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color choice of yellow and purple doesn't really give you two primaries. If you are starting from a RYB base, each of those colors needs to contribute. Purple = all primaries except yellow, so you sort of have just one primary color in addition to black. But that does serve as an anchor point, opening up the wheel to more flexible placement of the other colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blend red and blue with base colors:&lt;/strong&gt;  You can't get to a pure color if you've already blended in something else. You can keep increasing the amount of red or blue so the proportion of the something else is lower, but the something else will always be an impurity. This approach is kind of cheating on an artificial constraint you imposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, any color in your model, that needs to be a pure building block color, must be either in the model as a base color, or creatable from true primary colors in the model. You need red and blue in the model. Adding them to something else and then trying to get rid of the something else doesn't serve a purpose. Just put them in the model cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing is getting the right colors in the right places on the wheel. The idea of starting with a 2-color base (really a single primary), is a mechanism to give you more freedom in assigning colors to the other positions on the wheel. Once the wheel is completed, it isn't all that relevant how you created it; it will be a finished tool. Use any method at your disposal; don't artificially constrain yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blend external colors to build gradients:&lt;/strong&gt;  This is essentially the same as the previous bullet. You can build gradients this way, but you can never get to the pure color. The model needs to start with the two pure color endpoints and then create the gradient in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trial and error mixing:&lt;/strong&gt;  This sounds like the idea is to work &amp;quot;offline&amp;quot; to create the perfect color, then plug it into the model. Sure, that could be a way to create/select a color. It would be faster to do it mathematically, but your objective is &amp;quot;looks good&amp;quot;, and there isn't a math function for that. Trial and error is a logical way to get to &amp;quot;looks good&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calculate color distances from the wavelengths:&lt;/strong&gt;  This sounds like relating the color distribution to the spectrum, which is in some of the suggestions I'll mention below. That seems like a great place to start. But there's a crazy twist on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color actually exists only as an internal sensation. The vision system translates light wavelengths to create it. So your perception of color is based on wavelengths, ergo, color equals wavelengths. &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Oooh, I finally got to use &amp;quot;ergo&amp;quot; in a sentence.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt; The mathematical color models abstract away the wavelengths. So if you want to build your model on top of, or with the aid of, an existing color model, you'll need an additional mechanism to relate it back to wavelengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need to force certain colors into certain geometric positions on the wheel, there are all kinds of things that may improve the harmony of the displayed colors, or at least would be avenues to explore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can think of a conventional color wheel as the continuous color spectrum wrapped into a circle, then distorted to forcibly center the primary colors. Then it displays a 12-color resolution of it. Using proportions that more accurately represent the spectrum may look more natural. Wrap the color spectrum in a circle, superimpose the wheel on it, align it as desired, and make each position the color centered there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Building on the previous bullet, you ought to be able to rotate the wheel so it is centered on different colors. In fact, if you just overlay the wheel on the actual spectrum, I'm guessing that color complements wouldn't be aligned, and you're playing with color spacing anyway. There wouldn't be a special consideration in using the centered colors. That would provide some flexibility in the exact colors to select.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The gist of the objective is to get better distances between the colors. There are a number of ways to do that. For example, find better colors for the positions on the wheel, find better positions for the colors, and/or increase the number of positions (you mentioned in chat that the number of positions needs to be 12, so that option wouldn't apply).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Can a harmonious color wheel be used to produce harmonious colors?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'll refer to the color wheel producing colors, but really it's producing colors from base colors of the color wheel.) Any color wheel can be used to produce harmonious colors, just select harmonious colors to produce. Assuming the color wheel is built on a reasonable collection of base colors, it can create all kinds of colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that almost the entire spectrum can be represented in the existing color models using three primary colors. All the colors are in there. Some look good together and some don't. The color model and color wheel let you create them all, regardless of how they look together; they're all just colors. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stated objective is to identify colors that look good together. The reference to a new color system suggests that, rather than simply a single pallet of harmonious colors on the color wheel, the objective is a tool that produces only colors that look good together because of its base colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The project is focusing on the tools that create all the colors and trying to make the tool, itself look good. That suggests that if the tool looks good, any colors it creates will look good together. But consider that if you were going to put up some shelves and wanted them to look good, it wouldn't accomplish that objective by painting the screwdriver a nice color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colors that are not primary colors can be created multiple ways, mixing different combinations of primary and secondary colors. To produce the target color, it doesn't matter how the true primary colors are combined in the base colors as long as the mix contains the right totals. That's why, for example, you can produce brown from red + green, red + blue + yellow, orange + blue, purple + yellow, etc. As long as the base colors in your model contain the needed true primary colors, the appearance of the color wheel doesn't really make a practical difference (other than the purity with which it can produce the desired colors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By creating a tool that looks good, you're replacing a model based on true primary colors with a model based on secondary colors. That greatly reduces your ability to create pure desired colors because your base colors are true primary colors that are already adulterated with additional colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this approach only hobbles your ability to create colors. It doesn't help with an objective of producing colors that look good together (unless the idea is to create a good looking pallet and then use that to identify rules that could be applied more broadly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2023-02-04T18:59:43.037" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11501" CreationDate="2023-02-05T21:11:11.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pens are designed to work with acrylic paints, you could use clear acrylig gel as the carrier and dilute it with acrylic retarder to prolong the drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the clear acrylic gel is self-explanatory. It's your glue, it dries transparent and it sticks to other acrylic paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The retarder is a clear, watery liquid that slows down the drying of acrylic paints. A little retarder can result in a 10 minute drying time (of a thin layer that would usually dry in a minute), the longest I ever witnessed with a lot of retarder was roughly 45 minutes. Use it to water the acrylic gel down to a consistency that works with the pens. It should be available in any craft or art shop that sells a selection of various acrylic paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-02-06T05:55:10.523" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T05:55:10.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2023-02-06T05:44:25.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper, baby! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your game does not destroy furniture, you cannot get anything more slip-free (and till detachable when needed) than sandpaper. Glue it to the surfaces which should not slip (grains facing grains, of course), and you are all set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You even have a variety of choices, like brands, grain sizes, colors etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;worst case&amp;quot; alternative to get stickiness is to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velcro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;hook-and-loop fasteners&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Glue them to the surfaces and your figurines will stand there securely. Different sizes (widths) and different colors exist too. You can buy them as ribbons of any desired length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2023-02-06T05:51:18.453" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T05:51:18.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11507" CreationDate="2023-02-06T16:35:33.273" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;This design has been in my mind for a quite while. Do any of you know how to create/identify this kind of typography? I need some help because this kind of design intrigued me a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVDoR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVDoR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source unidentifiable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16420" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-02-11T18:28:32.287" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T15:26:13.410" Title="Does anyone know how to make/ identify this typography style?" Tags="|technique-identification|style-identification|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2023-02-06T18:46:08.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will post my results as an answer here, both to show them, and to inform others who are meaning to experiment with this faux-kintsugi method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Considerations of the existing answers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/11439/6388&quot;&gt;Elmy's method&lt;/a&gt; turned out to be the best option for my application and situation. I didn't want to buy a new slower-drying resin, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/11440/6388&quot;&gt;suggested by ChrisH&lt;/a&gt;, since I had glued most of the porcelain (and the next time I might want to try something closer to real kintsugi). &lt;strong&gt;I do suggest buying slower drying epoxy if you're still in a planning phase!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/11441/6388&quot;&gt;fixer1234's solution&lt;/a&gt; as well, glueing parts with superglue, and applying the resin/mica mix afterwards. Glueing went a lot better, and at times indeed seemingly seamless (or 'seemless'), but applying the resin/mica mix afterwards turned out to be difficult, as I didn't want to ruin any of my brushes, and a (semi-)hard material either carries too little mix, or can't be controlled precisely enough for clean, thin lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good to know the ratio is so important for the material's bond and durability, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/11443/6388&quot;&gt;pointed out by Harper&lt;/a&gt;, but this was a purely cosmetic job, as I believe the &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/6248&quot;&gt;epoxy wouldn't be food safe&lt;/a&gt; anyway. Throwing away large parts of otherwise perfectly fine epoxy resin was not a nice idea, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Results&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the epoxy resin/mica mix had dried, the excess was remarkably easy to remove. I used a simple blade cutter to go over the lines and scratch the excess off. The porcelain (even on the recto side, which has a decorative print on it) didn't get damaged at all, and I was able to go from this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRz4W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRz4W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Faux-kintsugi applied along a single transverse break - Before, showing clots and an overall thick line&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9rwZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9rwZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Faux-kintsugi applied along a single transverse break - After, showing a fine, single line&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture doesn't do it justice: both the line and colour are quite beautifully subtle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the more complicated breaks, the lines tend to be less subtle, but achieve a nice result nonetheless:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ojh7H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ojh7H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it certainly yields worse results when trying to glue several pieces together, or when parts are missing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zxTyl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zxTyl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I coloured the bare, rough surface of a chipped away part of the porcelain with the mix, but don't like the effect at all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-02-06T19:07:39.337" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T19:07:39.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11505" CreationDate="2023-02-06T18:53:03.893" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're only talking about the (mix of) typography, since that is the feature jumping out, this is actually known as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ransom_note_effect&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ransom note effect&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In typography, &lt;strong&gt;the ransom note effect is the result of using an excessive number of juxtaposed typefaces&lt;/strong&gt;. It takes its name from the appearance of a stereotypical ransom note, with the message formed from words or letters cut randomly from a magazine or newspaper in order to avoid using recognizable handwriting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-02-06T18:53:03.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11100" CreationDate="2023-02-07T08:55:49.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How thick and stiff it needs to be depends a lot on what the footwear is for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many sandals don't have a midsole, just two layers (or even one on cheap pairs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many smart shoes have just a thin hard sole and an insole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sports shoes might have a double midsole or structure in the top of the sole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling shoes are an extreme example with a thin stiff sole and midsole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hiking boots can have chunky soles and midsoles stiff for only part of the length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to decide what it's for.  For many of these, as you say, EVA foam is used, but that's only half the story.  There are different densities of EVA, and you don't even have to pick just one.  EVA bonds well with urethane glues, including to any rubber you might use for the outsole, making it a good choice for a glued construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-02-07T08:55:49.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11221" CreationDate="2023-02-11T00:50:20.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is pretty much answered within the question. The link in the question is to an article by a supplier, and focuses on the binders that supplier offers. But the article seems pretty comprehensive, and consistent with all of the similar binders I've seen. So this answer will mainly summarize and confirm information in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.binding101.com/resource-center/vinyl-binders-vs-poly-binders-which-is-better&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;provided link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What kind of material is used to make poly binders?&lt;/strong&gt; Polyethylene appears to be the predominant material, with polypropylene used for some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the pros and cons of the different materials?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either material can provide the right compromise of stiffness vs. flexibility in a good thickness for a binder. They both offer appropriate mechanical strength and durability to hold the ring mechanism without it tearing out, to open and close over a long service life without fatiguing and splitting, and to hold up to the wear and tear of use. Both are washable to keep them clean, and waterproof to shield the contents from splashed liquid and not be affected by perspiration when handled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are inexpensive plastics that are readily available in sheet form, and easy to handle in the manufacturing process (e.g., cutting, attaching the ring mechanism, folding, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't obvious why polyethylene is more commonly used (cheaper?, better characteristics? more readily available?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There appear to be a few reasons for selecting one material over the other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stiffness/flexibility differences might allow use of a better thickness material to meet the requirements for a specific binder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polypropylene appears to be the choice for custom colors (perhaps easier to color, or the colored sheet material is more readily available?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polyethylene appears to be used for applications that require frequent sanitizing (e.g., medical or veterinary settings).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the sheet thickness?&lt;/strong&gt; The linked supplier offers poly binders in four thicknesses from 23 gauge to 75 gauge, which ought to be roughly consistent with competitors' products. There is no standard for binder thickness and no need for a custom-made thickness, so the increments are probably common thicknesses that are readily available. The different thicknesses affect cost, stiffness, and durability. I'm not sure what this particular &amp;quot;gauge&amp;quot; reference translates to. I happen to have a poly binder laying around, and its thickness is about 0.5 mm or roughly 0.02 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2023-02-11T00:50:20.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8419" CreationDate="2023-02-11T01:40:07.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question describes using 2350 to keep the Dragon Skin from sticking to the Smooth-On 15 mold, but the problem seems to be described as uncured Smooth-On 15 between the mold and the original. It isn't clear from the question what release material, if any, was used to originally make the mold. It sounds like the talcum powder trial was used on the finished mold to cast Dragon Skin. So the nature of the problem isn't entirely clear, and this answer will need to be very general to cover the bases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the uncured silicone is Smooth-On 15 that didn't cure when originally making the mold&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The uncured silicone won't retain surface detail and isn't stable. Demolding will mess up the surface. In some cases, the silicone might eventually cure in whatever shape it's in after demolding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything you use as a mold release for the Dragon Skin will have unpredictable effects. The uncured silicone isn't a solid surface, plus it might migrate into the solvent in the mold release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons, you're better off removing any uncured silicone before it potentially cures and before using the mold if the mold is still good enough for your purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the uncured silicone is contaminated with something that inhibited its cure, that could potentially inhibit the cure of the surface of the Dragon Skin. So if there is uncured Smooth-On 15 on the surface of the mold but the mold is still adequate for your purpose, that is another reason to thoroughly clean off any uncured silicone before using the mold. Then a suitable sealer-release agent should prevent anything still on the surface from affecting the Dragon Skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you used 2350 Sealer on the original when making the mold, there would be reason to question compatibility, and I'll cover that below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't need mold release on the original (or possibly even if you used some, depending on the release agent), the issue may have been caused by the original, itself. Both of the Smooth-On products are platinum cure, and a long list of materials can inhibit the cure, even in trace amounts. If the original contained any of those materials, or its surface was contaminated with some, that could explain the inhibited cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used 2350 on the original, that likely would have sealed the surface, so the 2350 would be what to look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once silicone is cured, nothing will &amp;quot;uncure&amp;quot; it. So if you made the mold from the original, and it ended up with a fully-cured surface, any subsequent uncured silicone between the mold and the Dragon Skin casting has to be the Dragon Skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the mold is sticky, it isn't ready to be used. Anything sticky is something that shouldn't be there. Adding talcum powder to make it less sticky isn't a good solution. You're just adding more stuff that will affect the surface of the casting. Before using the mold, clean it down to a good silicone surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the uncured silicone is Dragon Skin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings us to the key point asked in the question. If the only thing between the mold and the Dragon Skin is 2350, and the uncured silicone is Dragon Skin, could the 2350 be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://polytek.com/products/pol-ease-2350-sealer-release-agent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;According the the manufacturer&lt;/a&gt;, 2350 is white petrolatum dissolved in mineral spirits. In the manufacturer's materials I looked at, they say it can be used for casting silicone, and don't mention an issue with platinum cure, but at least those materials didn't expicitly state that it's compatible with platinum cure. That is a point you could ask the manufacturer about, or see if it's mentioned somewhere else. But if it is affecting the cure, there are a couple of possible reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One is the mineral spirits. The instructions warn to allow the solvent to fully evaporate before casting. Mineral spirits dissolve not only the petrolatum, but also uncured silicone (and even swells cured silicone). You can dilute uncured silicone in mineral spirits to make silicone paint. It slows down the cure until most of the mineral spirits has evaporated, and a significant amount can't evaporate while it is sealed inside the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the 2350 isn't fully &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot;, any residual mineral spirits will migrate into the uncured silicone. Long after most of the casting silicone is cured, there can be a film of uncured silicone at the mold surface, which will take a long time to cure while the casting remains in the mold (and the casting will be ruined if you take it out before it is cured).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mineral spirits will eventually migrate farther into the casting and the casting surface will cure, but it will be soft and swollen until you eventually demold the casting, and the trapped mineral spirits can migrate back out and evaporate. But that may also distort the surface of the casting because it will be swollen silicone that conforms to the mold, which will shrink when the mineral spirits evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other potential cause is the purity of the petrolatum used in the 2350. Petrolatum is actually a pretty crude material derived from petroleum. It is made by separating a range of compounds via distillation. It contains a variable mix of substances that are components of petroleum, and is refined to different levels depending on the application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petroleum contains a crazy number of compounds and impurities. For example, sulfur compounds are a common impurity, and they're one of the substances that inhibits platinum cure. It isn't clear whether any inhibitory substances, like sulfur compounds, would be in the fraction used for petrolatum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't know how the 2350 manufacturer sources the petrolatum, or what refining steps might be used to ensure that it's compatible with platinum cure (if, indeed, they claim that it is). So unless the manufacturer claims it's compatible with platinum cure, you can't rule out the possibility that it could be the cause of your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2023-02-11T01:40:07.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11489" CreationDate="2023-02-11T14:03:42.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated above, if you want to make something non-slip then you can buy non-slip rubber matting quite cheaply, like the previous answers suggest, but if you want to make them &lt;strong&gt;sticky&lt;/strong&gt;, or to have some form of adhesion (for example, so you can move the board by pushing the figures rather than the boards, then look for a product called Museum wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a thick tacky substance that acts like a glue, but which can be removed quite easily. Model makers sometimes use it to attach miniatures to an object to hold them in place while they are painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Museum wax would effectively lock the miniatures in place, but still give you the option to remove them later. A little like with a post-it note. But with stronger hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-02-12T10:28:14.217" LastActivityDate="2023-02-12T10:28:14.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11208" CreationDate="2023-02-12T20:18:36.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercial food safe silicone items are commonly sold. This question assumes you can make these items at home to the same safety standard if you follow certain precautions (what those precautions are is the subject of the question). That is not a good starting premise. Some context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is silicone even dangerous?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silicone is a family of substances, and silicone rubber also has additional substances in it. Some of the compounds are recognized as completely safe, others can cause damage when taken internally. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/260287493_Safety_and_toxicity_aspects_of_polysiloxanes_silicones_applications_chapter_in_Concise_Encyclopedia_of_High_Performance_Silicones_eds_Atul_Tiwari_and_Mark_D_Soucek_WILEY-Scrivener_Publisher_USA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Further reading&lt;/a&gt;) For internal use (e.g., food/beverage, food contact, medical), the FDA has limits on the presence of the potentially harmful substances. Some silicone rubber is within the allowances once cured, and some requires additional processing to extract those substances (discussed below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; mean, and can you make silicone items at home that are?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial food safe items are &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; because they meet government requirements to be labeled as food safe. &amp;quot;Food safe&amp;quot;, in this case, is a product claim, and in that usage, the term has a regulated meaning defined by the government.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the right conditions, you can produce silicone items at home, many or most of which would probably meet, or come reasonably close to, the requirements. But you can't do it reliably, or differentiate the items that do not. The risks depend heavily on the specific silicone you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The government requirements are covered within mountains of regulatory documents. They are readily available, and you can find summaries that will give you the gist of it. Those requirements generally cover the &amp;quot;what&amp;quot; for the results, not the &amp;quot;how&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;how&amp;quot; is what you're supposed to bring to the table. The system is designed for manufacturers that will be selling the products to the public. The manufacturers are expected to know how to reliably meet the standards, and to have the expertise, equipment, and processes to accomplish it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question mentions &amp;quot;small business&amp;quot; standards, which I assume refers to the FDA Food Safety Modernization Act (FSMA). I'm not very familiar with the details, but my understanding of it is that it doesn't relax the relevant regulations. The regulations are to ensure public safety. You don't get to put the public at risk because you're a small player who can't afford to do everything properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can save some cost by not getting products certified, which may be all you need if you aren't planning to sell them. But to be &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; as the term is defined, they still need to meet the requirements of the regulations, and you still need to bring the expertise and processes to meet the standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do the &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot; advertising terms mean?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy silicone labeled as &amp;quot;non-toxic&amp;quot; and/or &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot;. Some manufacturers advertise that you can use it for food-related purposes, like making molds for food. Other manufacturers sell apparently similar non-toxic silicone and warn that it is not for making food molds or that use of the material doesn't guarantee that the result will be food safe. So what does the labeling &amp;quot;non-toxic&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;use for food molds&amp;quot; really mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thefiltery.com/what-does-non-toxic-mean/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Filtery&lt;/a&gt; (an interesting read),&amp;quot;Non-toxic&amp;quot; doesn't actually mean anything specific on a product claim. Dictionaries typically define it as &amp;quot;non-poisonous&amp;quot;, which just means that if it harms you, it won't be via a chemical reaction. The term doesn't mean that it is non-harmful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Food safe&amp;quot; has a regulated meaning when used as a product claim (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.industrialspec.com/about-us/blog/detail/fda-compliant-food-grade-food-safe-meanings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;short summary&lt;/a&gt;). It refers to the finished product, not the raw materials used to make it. But to make a &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;food safe&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; product, you need to start with &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;food grade&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silicone components should be &amp;quot;food grade&amp;quot; for this purpose, but don't qualify as &amp;quot;food-safe&amp;quot; because they are not the finished item. So advertising claims that the silicone is food safe aren't covered by the regulations and are meaningless, and intentionally misleading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food safe is not a blanket term meaning it is or it isn't. It means safe for a specific type of usage under a specific range of conditions, like temperature, type of food, length of contact, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Companies that advertise their silicone as usable to make molds for food, are implying things about safety that are misleading. Sure you can use it to make molds for food; you can use anything you want to make molds for food, so it's technically a true statement. Does the silicone meet FDA food safe standards when cured? You might want to ask the manufacturer that question (and pay attention to all the caveats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Availability of &amp;quot;how-to&amp;quot; information&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question and comments refer to the problem of information being unavailable. The information is available, just not in the form you want. It is somewhat like getting information to safely remove your own appendix. The information for removing an appendix is found in medical textbooks; you would be hard pressed to find a tutorial for the casual hobbyist who wants to do it with stuff readily available at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The information on how to guarantee safety is geared toward industrial processes that can't typically be replicated at home. It tends to be technical, and in sources used by people in industrial and academic settings with the appropriate training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tutorial on making food-safe silicone stuff at home, if you can find it, can only focus on the normal process of handmaking silicone molds, with some common sense precautions. It can't cover how to reproduce the safety level possible in a manufacturing setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do manufacturers produce food safe products, and how is that different from home?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers start with food grade silicone (perhaps even essentially the same as some of the stuff available on the consumer market). They have equipment that can do precision measuring and extremely thorough mixing, and other production steps if needed, which often aren't done at home (e.g., degassing, post curing [see &lt;a href=&quot;https://silicone.co.uk/news/what-is-post-curing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rdabbott.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Dow-Corning-Post-Curing-Silicone-Elastomers.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;], etc.), and can tightly control the process to optimum conditions. They work with big batches, which minimizes inaccuracies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may do the casting by a different method than typically done at home (e.g., use of a press, or injection molding), that allows them to use clay-like silicone instead of liquid. Silicone that is closer to clay consistency has a number of benefits (e.g., ability to reliably mix thoroughly, not very sticky, less prone to pick up contaminants, no need for mold release, etc.). They are likely to use machined and polished original metal molds, rather than copying something, which provides a number of benefits besides lasting almost &amp;quot;forever&amp;quot; in production (e.g., easy to thoroughly clean and sanitize, no need for mold release, no exposure to cure inhibition, ability to control and monitor temperature, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do trials with the silicone to verify its characteristics, optimize conditions, and establish measurement baselines. They do extensive testing on the materials and the results to ensure they are safe and meet all requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they could achieve the results simply by mixing and pouring the silicone, there wouldn't be much incentive to invest in all of the equipment and time for the rest of the process. And if the testing never failed, there would be an incentive to skip it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making the products at home would typically consist of using silicone labeled &amp;quot;food safe&amp;quot;, with the mixing and pouring steps done by hand, and generally trying to be careful. It might include checking the result by sight and touch to see if it seems like a good cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with the right silicone, most of the time, that could be close enough, and the results would be pretty safe. But it won't reliably replicate the quality and safety of the commercial product, and it carries risks that you have no way to assess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ramifications&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If silicone is accurately, completely, and uniformly mixed, and cures properly and completely (which may take a long time without a post cure), it's pretty stable and inert. But if not, you could get the chemical components in your food. Even if they aren't poisonous, some of them aren't good for you (depends heavily on the specific silicone). Many things can result in incomplete cure (which may not be obvious): inaccurate mixing, cure inhibition, use of silicone past its shelf life, use of silicone that was stored or shipped under poor conditions, use of defective product, using the finished product before the cure is complete, etc. Use of silicone advertised as food safe doesn't guarantee that your finished item will be. Manufacturers that make this clear are being honest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are different types of potential harm. If there is an immediate, serious effect, that is at least good feedback that there's a problem. But you can also have problems resulting from cumulative exposure over a long time, and not be aware of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At least in the US, the regulations on food safe products apply to the supply chain and sellers (it's meant to protect the public). Individuals are free to put anything they want in their own bodies (and companies can sell you the silicone for your own use to do that).  If you make your own items for use with food and end up harming yourself, it's all on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you give or sell those products to other people, or share food prepared with those products, you could become liable if someone else is harmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Say you use good silicone and do a good job of making the items, the result appears to be properly cured, you take proper precautions in using it, and only use it in approved ways. What's the likelihood of someone being harmed from it? Probably pretty low. Many people are buying the silicone and making food-related products at home, and they're not dropping like flies (at least not yet). But the risks are not zero, and manufacturers think it's cost-justified to spend a lot of money testing to avoid that risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might well be able to make items that turn out completely safe for the way you want to use them. But that isn't guaranteed. Making products at home is inherently less safe than the commercial products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Precautions to take&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the equipment, precision process control, and testing of a manufacturing setting, items made at home will be inherently less safe, and you won't know it. If you don't perform due diligence in selecting the silicone and do proper testing, you will be the guinea pig. There are no precautions you can take that will produce items at home that are reliably food safe as the term is defined. There are only precautions that can help minimize additional risks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list will get you started, but probably doesn't include everything you can do to reduce risk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Figure out all the ways you might want to use the item, then make sure the silicone is rated for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The single most important precaution is starting with the right silicone. If you use silicone that cures to food safe, you've eliminated most of the risk that would not be apparent. Buy silicone that's advertised as &amp;quot;food grade&amp;quot; (or at least advertised as non-toxic and food safe and then investigate further). Stick with major manufacturers, and prefer a manufacturer that accurately represents the product (if they make misleading claims, it raises questions of how much you can trust their other claims). Ask the manufacturer if the cured silicone meets FDA food safe requirements without supplementary processing. Research the manufacturer for reputation for quality products, product recalls, regulatory action, lawsuits, etc. If you don't start with appropriate silicone, you can't get there from here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upon delivery and prior to each use, test a small batch to verify that it cures properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use silicone past its use-by date, or silicone that doesn't cure perfectly or as fast as you expect. If it is still good enough for another purpose, use it for that, but not for a food-contact application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As asked in the question, you are not limited to copying only items that are, themselves, food safe as long as you use an appropriate process. Since the possibilities are limitless, you would need to ask a new question about how to mold a specific item for a food safe result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not incorporate anything that is not food safe (you can't make a food safe item by wrapping an unsafe item in a layer of silicone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Familiarize yourself with what substances inhibit the cure of the type of silicone you're using and avoid them (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.aeromarineproducts.com/curing-issues-trouble-shooting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brief summary&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dow.com/en-us/faq/platinum-catalyzed-silicone-inhibitors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;platinum cure specifically&lt;/a&gt;). Platinum cure can be inhibited by trace amounts of substances left by your gloves, tin catylized silicone, cleaning solutions, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a mold release is needed, use something food safe, or at least non-toxic and easily and completely cleanable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be meticulous in measuring, and using every bit of each silicone component you measure. Small batches will have bigger measuring inaccuracies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mix extremely thoroughly so the mixture is completely uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carefully inspect the finished items for anything that is not good, cured silicone. If the entire item does not look and feel perfect, don't use it with food. The risks aren't in the obvious rejects that you are aware not to use. They are in the ones that superficially look OK. You'll eliminate some of these by rejecting anything marginal or not uniformly good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use some method to objectively measure the cure and properties, even if it is just a durometer test and you compare hardness readings to a standard or baseline for that silicone when fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the finished item has surface pocks from air bubbles, those will be hard to clean and will be prone to capturing contaminants. Consider not using it with food. Degassing the silicone in a vacuum chamber will minimize air bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use the items for food contact immediately after demolding. The initial stage of cure is sufficient for demolding and handling, but the cure is not yet complete. If the product does not tell you how long full cure takes, give it at least a week before using it with food, or do a post cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean and sanitize the finished item before use. Use only methods and materials that are compatible with the silicone. Remove any surface residue, like mold release, then clean off any solvents or cleaning products used in that step. Bleaching or baking, as mentioned in the question, would be counter-productive as cleaning methods. Microorganisms are not the concern, and those methods would introduce something new to clean off, or bake on residue. Baking, at least at high temperatures, can also shorten the silicone's life (but baking at a moderate temperature may be warranted as a post cure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that no amount of surface cleaning will affect problems below the surface, and internal substances can migrate out or be exposed via damage or wear. Cleaning won't make it food safe if it is not already inherently food safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use the items outside of the range of conditions the silicone is approved for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these precautions are more important for a silicone that requires a complete cure or post cure to be food safe. But you may not have the means to know for sure, so doing them can't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-02-15T01:05:05.977" LastActivityDate="2023-02-15T01:05:05.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11505" CreationDate="2023-02-13T05:57:31.830" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not call it really a &amp;quot;typography style&amp;quot;, as it is a random collection of styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, from an artistic POV, I would call it a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;collage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. It is a collection of cropped pictures, each picture containing a letter (or other symbol) with various type settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2023-02-13T05:57:31.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-14T20:26:03.973" Score="5" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;When drawing speech bubbles for an English language comic, is there such a thing as an &amp;quot;ideal&amp;quot; or preferred ratio to them in regards to their width and height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideal in terms of visual attractiveness. Effectively the graphic design version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://scottwilsonarchitect.com/the-golden-ratio-in-architecture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the golden ratio in architecture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I've noticed that some comics tend to have very wide speech bubbles that are only a couple of lines deep, or narrow speech bubbles with one or two words across but many lines deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it simply a matter of fitting them to the available space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My background is more in Asian language comics where you can fit an entire sentence in the same horizontal space as a single word written in English and the tendency is to prefer even spaced blocks of text, or to write vertically in a way that's not usually done with English language text, so the whole ratio thing is throwing me a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-02-15T18:56:20.107" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T17:06:31.743" Title="Is there an &quot;ideal&quot; width-to-height ratio for speech bubbles in English language comics?" Tags="|comics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11514" CreationDate="2023-02-15T05:41:16.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not aware of such &amp;quot;ideal&amp;quot;. In this context, &amp;quot;ideal&amp;quot; is defined by what is expected by the author / artist. There are several aspect to be considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;length of text;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;available area;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;layout of the &amp;quot;boxes&amp;quot; on the page;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the design of each &amp;quot;box&amp;quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patterns used;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;artistic effects targeted;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;personal &amp;quot;feeling&amp;quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, feel free to experiment and see what fits best for you, and for the story you are currently writing. It might even be useful to change the styles from story to story, to create a &amp;quot;branding&amp;quot;. A Pizza Hut building will always be recognizable, even if there is another business inside, or a kinder garden. You can achieve that level or &amp;quot;identity&amp;quot; with your comics too. You can create THE new standards, you do not need for others to do that for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2023-02-15T05:41:16.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11514" CreationDate="2023-02-15T08:41:37.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any &amp;quot;ideal&amp;quot; ratio of speech bubbles, but I feel there are some subjective rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are only 1 - 3 short words to write, you can opt for a long and narrow speech bubble and put every word in a new line. That disrupts the reading flow and puts strong emphasis on the words. In my personal opinion it's appropriate for dramatic situations and phases like &amp;quot;Oh my God!&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;What happened?&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Watch out!&amp;quot; but not for emotional situations and phrases like &amp;quot;Welcome back&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;I love you&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have more than 3 words to write, the speech bubble should be wider than high, simply because a western audience is used to reading long lines of text.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of the time it's better to have rectangular speech boxes instead of oval speech bubbles, because the ovals either force you to leave some space at the top and bottom free of text, or to break the lines awkwardly into shorter and longer ones to use all the space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In wide panels, a speech box shouldn't be wider than 80% of the panel, simply because that looks odd. In very wide panels, that makes speech boxes so wide that your eyes have to move away from the focus (the character that's speaking).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A speech box can (but doesn't have to) have the same width as the panel, but then it should be considered narration. One example would be a panel showing a city in the distance with a box telling us that after X days of travel our heroes finally approached their destination. Another example is a character narrating events of the past: you show the past/memory in the panel and write the spoken words in a wide box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many people find lines of up to 60 characters (including spaces) readable, but anything longer than that becomes intimidating and people might not read it at all. (source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://baymard.com/blog/line-length-readability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The optimal line length&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the most deciding factor for the size and ratio of speech bubbles in the space available on a panel. A golden rule of dramatic content like film, theater and comic books is &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Show. Don't tell.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; so you should try keeping your speech texts as short as reasonably possible and show the key elements of the story in your drawings instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-02-15T19:27:39.937" LastActivityDate="2023-02-15T19:27:39.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11514" CreationDate="2023-02-15T16:04:43.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is no specific &amp;quot;ideal ratio&amp;quot; for the shape itself&lt;/strong&gt;, other than that in English (and other words with a horizontal layout), you will generally want the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oval in shape&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wider than it is tall&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Limited to no more than ~25 words per bubble&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid circular or nearly-circular speech bubbles&lt;/strong&gt;--these have an awkward appearance and will be off-putting to viewers. Similarly, &lt;strong&gt;avoid rectangles&lt;/strong&gt; unless you're doing exposition (&amp;quot;Five hours later...&amp;quot;), or have a mechanical voice of some sort (&amp;quot;I'm sorry, Dave, I cannot do that.&amp;quot;); this is part of a &amp;quot;hidden language&amp;quot; that exists within comics, and readers will generally automatically understand that text in a rectangle falls into one of these categories, even if they can't put that understanding into words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid other shapes outside of specific effects.&lt;/strong&gt; A speech balloon made up of a lot of lines might look cool to you, but it gives a &amp;quot;disoriented&amp;quot; effect (&amp;quot;What did I drink last night?&amp;quot;). One made up of spiky edges implies an exclamatory statement (&amp;quot;How dare you!&amp;quot;). A dashed outline suggests a whisper, a cloud-shaped bubble suggests a thought (or, if working in a more &amp;quot;manga&amp;quot; or Eastern-inspired style, an outline made up of numerous lines running perpendicular to what the drawn outline would normally be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, &lt;strong&gt;avoid being too wordy&lt;/strong&gt;; you don't want your bubbles to be cramped or to overwhelm the page--if it's all text, it may as well just be a novel, after all. The &amp;quot;25 words per bubble&amp;quot; guideline is a general one based on print comics passed around in the industry, and other standards do exist (DC's &amp;quot;35 per page&amp;quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://techmomma.tumblr.com/post/182656654445/speech-bubbleword-balloon-tips#:%7E:text=Standard%20DC%20comics%20typically%20have,between%20two%20or%20three%20characters.&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;guideline&lt;/a&gt;, for example); in general, less is more with comics, where you want to &amp;quot;show&amp;quot; more than &amp;quot;tell.&amp;quot; Tailor your own personal word limits to your specific situation. A comic structured for Webtoon, which will therefore be read on a smaller mobile screen, should aim for fewer words than one that might be in print at standard manga size, which in turn should aim for fewer than one printed in standard US comic size. Choose an appropriate clear, sans-serif font (many free options exist) and edit yourself harshly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, all that said, &lt;strong&gt;these &amp;quot;rules&amp;quot; are more like guidelines&lt;/strong&gt;, and like the &amp;quot;rules&amp;quot; in any form of art, once you understand them, you'll understand how and when to break them as well. But like drawing a stylized figure, you'll need to understand the underlying structure first; don't dive straight into being &amp;quot;unique&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;weird,&amp;quot; get a firm grasp on &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a solid handle on speech bubbles, as well as more of the implied language of comics you already understand without knowing it, &lt;strong&gt;I strongly recommend reading the book &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scottmccloud.com/2-print/1-uc/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Understanding Comics&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; by Scott McCloud&lt;/strong&gt;, which does a fantastic job of breaking down that implied language in a very clear, understandable way. (You may also like the sequel &amp;quot;Making Comics,&amp;quot; which drills deeper into some of the concepts in Understanding, but it's not necessary; the other sequel &amp;quot;Reinventing Comics&amp;quot; aged poorly and is, quite honestly, skippable.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources: &lt;em&gt;Understanding Comics&lt;/em&gt;, college-level comic production courses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2023-02-15T16:04:43.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11427" CreationDate="2023-02-18T18:46:37.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only fixative for oil based mediums is drying time, which can be months at the least. After the pigments are dry to the touch and do not smudge (test an small area not normally visible) you can preserve them with clear, oil based, varnish. The nice thing about this is that once they are dry and varnished they are fairly durable but it only works if the oils in the pigments are allowed to dry completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2023-02-18T18:46:37.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-20T19:58:26.433" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a &amp;quot;Super Mario Invincibility Star&amp;quot; for my son. I've been working with resin now for roughly 5 years and have yet to see anyone create glowing resin with diffraction grating. I want to avoid more wasted time, money, product, patience, sanity, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made holographic resin, and I have made glowing photo-luminescent resin. But I can't seem to pull off creating the two effects combined. My go-to resin so far has been Total Boat Tabletop 1/1 ratio. I have LIT extra fine glow powder pigment for the luminescence. And I did use diffraction grating sheets which I formed holographic silicone transfers, using Smooth-on Platinum 15 silicone mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, my man has 3D printed a model of the star with glow-in-the-dark filament, in hope that I could use it somehow in the creation of this star.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I'm working with so far. But, I can't seem to put the puzzle together of what the best process would be. Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16517" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-02-21T01:16:09.327" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T14:36:54.667" Title="What is the best way to make photoluminescent resin with diffraction grating holographic effect?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-21T08:02:25.040" Score="4" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a bit puzzled on the subject of stretcher bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you make a canvas from stretcher bars and canvas (rather than buying ready-to-paint stretched and treated canvases), what is meant to happen when you finish your painting, and say you want to put a frame around it. And maybe hang it on a wall, something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just glimpsed at a Youtube vid on this subject and the idea seemed to be that you don’t in fact remove the canvas from the stretcher bars. Instead, you slot it into the frame and then attach it will clips, apply various preservative materials, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question then is: is this the normal, time-honoured approach? It’s just that stretcher bars are a little pricey, and I had assumed they were probably re-usable items, rather than consumables. Maybe I need to try making them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No doubt there is a rationale for this, i.e. if you remove a stretched canvas from its stretchers it’s going to go all floppy (the most obvious explanation I can imagine!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16520" LastActivityDate="2023-02-22T21:49:30.410" Title="Are stretcher bars always left attached to an oil painting?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11522" CreationDate="2023-02-21T11:40:39.743" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's a time-honored tradition to leave canvases on the stretchers. There are some exceptions to this, but the usual reasons are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stretching a canvas cleanly without tension irregularities and without damaging it is a tricky task that requires some experience. Leaving the canvas on the stretchers means any layperson can hang up the painting or put it into storage without needing any expertise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the name implies, stretcher bars allow for increasing the tension of the canvas by stretching it without having to remount it. Over time the canvas will lose some tension, so the stretcher bar can fix this problem very quickly and easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To stretch the canvas you put tacks through the canvas, which can damage it. Leaving the canvas on the stretchers reduces the amount of damage over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having the canvas attached to the stretcher bars instead of the frame means that it's easy to change the frame whenever you want to. You also reduce possible damage to the frame (which can be considered an artwork by itself) because you drive the tacks into the wood of the stretchers instead of the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The paint itself also gets drier and harder over time. You probably have noticed very small cracks in famous old paintings. Any movement of the canvas can increase this cracking and poses the risk of paint flakes falling off the canvas. Always keeping the canvas stretched minimizes the possible movements and reduces the damage to the paint itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exceptions I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The artist wants to paint on an unmounted canvas. It can be stretched and framed afterwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For storage and transportation of many canvases it might be not practicable to have them on stretchers. I've seen some artists offering their works in a big catalog of unstretched canvases that are easy to transport. However, one of the worst things you can do is roll a painted canvas into a tube to store it that way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make your own stretchers you should be aware that they do not have a rectangular cross section. The outer edge is higher than the inner one so that the canvas only touches the very edge, but not the front of the entire stretcher frame. This prevents lines forming at the edges of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T11:40:39.743" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11521" CreationDate="2023-02-21T14:36:54.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A diffraction grating effect will work for light from a point source or in a beam, probably reflected though transmitted light could work with very clear resin. Glow in the dark materials are diffuse sources that won't be suited to the grating. So you would have one effect in a darkened room, and a different effect under direct illumination. It's not clear whether that's desirable. You won't be able to use a grating surface to add sparkle to glow in the dark pigment, whether persistent (phosphorescent) or UV excited (fluorescent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-02-21T14:36:54.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11522" CreationDate="2023-02-22T21:49:30.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Elmy is absolutely right with their answer, I want to stress that &lt;strong&gt;the price of stretcher bars should not impede your creativity&lt;/strong&gt;. If you want to reuse your stretcher bars, just do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, paintings are vulnerable, and framing them properly is important, but they can also be stretched too tightly or unevenly, which might cause even more problems in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, there are a lot of factors at play when it comes to the longevity of a painting (especially changes in humidity and temperature can be detrimental), and removing the canvas from a stretcher is certainly not the worst thing that can happen to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, as well, that there is a dedicated and beautiful profession in which problems caused by subpar treatment of paintings are addressed: the conservator. That might not be a great excuse to go wild (but you don't need that anyway in the arts ), but it's certainly good to know that if one of your works will ever require that care and attention, they are there for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-02-22T21:49:30.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-02-23T16:02:58.863" Score="5" ViewCount="3624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make dioramas and use epoxy resin for water features. However, epoxy is expensive ($80 for a gallon where I live), toxic, and it gets cold where I live, which isn't good for curing. So what are some cheaper alternatives; something preferably non-toxic, relatively cheap, and doesn't care about how cold the garage I work in gets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key properties: long-lasting, pourable and hardening, or at least gets somewhat hard. The biggest concern for me is price and temperature. All other factors are more of a bonus. If it's resin-like but cheaper but even more toxic then I'm fine with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16388" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-02-24T10:08:38.430" LastActivityDate="2023-02-25T19:34:41.370" Title="What are some inexpensive alternatives to epoxy resin for diorama water effects?" Tags="|material-selection|epoxy-resin|model-building|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2023-02-23T16:48:58.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something inexpensive that comes to mind is &amp;quot;fake glass&amp;quot; made from sugar. This is what is often used for prop windows and bottles. You can color it or put a clear layer over a painted surface (that can take some heat). Here's instructions for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thoughtco.com/making-stage-glass-with-sugar-602211&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;doing it with just sugar&lt;/a&gt;, and instructions for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Fake-glass-bottleSugar-glass/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a more complicated mix&lt;/a&gt; used to cast fake bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finished items should last a long time, but I don't know if they might attract pests or if they are hygroscopic and could get sticky in high humidity. You might be able to coat the surface with some kind of clear top coat to avoid those potential problems (never tried it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the surface to which you want to apply the &amp;quot;resin&amp;quot; can't take the heat, pre-cast the fake glass. I'm not sure whether it's too brittle to try to cut it to shape after it's cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is clear wax sold for candle making, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0185Y9DOQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/Density-Penreco-Candle-Making-Supplies/dp/B0185Y9DOQ/&lt;/a&gt;. I've never used it, but it looks like it should work. It isn't cheap, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need too thick of a layer, you might be able to use clear hot melt glue, especially if the area you're filling can take some heat. It is pretty transparent (not like Lucite, but clear and colorless). You can melt a bunch of it in a small pot or craft melter and pour it, or preheat the surface, pump in a bunch with a glue gun, and keep it all hot during the process with a low temperature heat gun. If you get the glue a little hotter than what comes out of the glue gun, it becomes much less viscous and will flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot melt glue does shrink a bit as it cools. Best case, you will have a divot when it cools that you can top off. Worst case, if what you put the glue in isn't solid, that can distort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If all you will see is the surface, there isn't really a need to cast something thick. You just need a surface that looks like water. People often do that with Mod Podge, glue, paint, and other materials (like toilet paper to add bulk and retain shape). Aluminum foil is sometimes used as a base layer to get the light reflection effect. &lt;a href=&quot;https://craftknights.com/how-to-make-water-for-a-diorama-with-and-without-resin/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Make Water for a Diorama - With and Without Resin&lt;/a&gt; might be a good start (ignore the resin part). The author uses a specific paint designed for water effects, but people often use regular acrylic paint. There are lots of online resources for achieving a realistic water look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://diyquickly.com/how-to-make-realistic-water-in-a-diorama/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Make Realistic Water in a Diorama | Detailed Guide (2023)&lt;/a&gt; goes into a little detail on creating surface texture. The author prefers glazing medium/gloss gel. They recommend a product called &amp;quot;E-Z Water&amp;quot;, which appears to be a form of low-temperature meltable plastic. That will probably be more expensive than epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-02-23T18:26:01.473" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T18:26:01.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2023-02-23T17:07:32.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how deep you want the water to be (or rather, how much of it you need to look transparent), you can try using &lt;strong&gt;PVA glue&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It cures slowly (requiring cover while drying in order not to get all dusty and dirty), shrinks while drying (which may cause warping of whatever it is applied to), but it is significantly cheaper, can also be dyed, and manipulated somewhat into shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T17:07:32.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2023-02-23T19:00:00.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/WaterBase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woodland Scenics&lt;/a&gt; web site carries a few different water related products. There's no indication of temperature problems as the product is melted and poured into place, at which point it becomes transparent/translucent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIONb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIONb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pouring E-Z Water&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image above of E-Z Water being poured into scenery, captured from linked site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The site offers coloration/tints for the products as well, with cautions regarding one set of colorants to not be used with a specific set of water products, alternatives provided in the product text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the other comments, I would expect there is a PVA component to these products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T19:00:00.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11505" CreationDate="2023-02-24T15:26:13.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a specific name for this typography style. But there are several alternatives to find results in Google. The main one is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=kidnapp%20typography%20style&amp;amp;rlz=1C5MACD_enFR506FR507&amp;amp;oq=kidnapp%20typography%20style&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j0i22i30j0i390l4.11408j0j7&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kidnap Font&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a graphical alternative, you will find many results in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=mixed%20messages%20typography&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;ved=2ahUKEwjsrc2nu679AhVaZqQEHax8AdQQ2-cCegQIABAA&amp;amp;oq=mixed%20messages%20typography&amp;amp;gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoECCMQJzoGCAAQCBAeOgcIABCABBAYOgYIABAHEB5QjghYvBJguxVoAHAAeACAAXmIAd4GkgEDOS4xmAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&amp;amp;sclient=img&amp;amp;ei=Xdb4Y6yLG9rMkdUPrPmFoA0&amp;amp;bih=1208&amp;amp;biw=1533&amp;amp;rlz=1C5MACD_enFR506FR507&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mixed Message Font&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T15:26:13.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2023-02-25T05:10:46.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways and it depends on the size and shape of the thing you are felting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's something really thin and flat, you can put it between two sheets of plastic. You place the wool in between the plastic, and hold it shut with your hands. Then carefully stab the needle between the folds, aiming at the wool. This is a fairly delicate process, but you can get fairly thin and sharp lines like this.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Fs2hPlrq8M&amp;amp;t=190s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;For reference, here is a youtube video on how to make cat ears.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can get a piece of leather. I use leftover veggie tan. Cut out a rectangle about 3 by 6 inches. Bigger, for bigger hands. Then the long side in half, to make a square hotdog.&#xA;The put it on your non-stabbing hand. With the thumb on one side, and the your four other fingers on the other side. Similar to how you would shape your hand for a sock puppet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwords, you can mold the sides with water and friction so they curl towards the outside, kind of like a shell.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sarafinafiberart.com/products/sarafina-s-original-grab-and-stab-finger-protector_tool-grab-stab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a link to the product by Sarafina, if you don't want to make it yourself. &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like carefully holding it and just being really careful about how I'm stabbing, so to not hurt myself. I find this better than the finger gloves, because this way I can feel the wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16539" LastEditorUserId="16539" LastEditDate="2023-02-26T01:08:14.217" LastActivityDate="2023-02-26T01:08:14.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1808" CreationDate="2023-02-25T05:13:14.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some with polymer clay. Just sculpt it around the needles with the desired shape, and you can make it perfectly ergonomic to your finger shape and grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just squeeze lightly, and then pop it into the oven in a tray of cornstarch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16539" LastActivityDate="2023-02-25T05:13:14.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11535" CreationDate="2023-02-25T17:39:34.647" Score="3" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a bulky and wide character with the help of exaggeration. The problem is that it loses believably. How do I make a character resemble the upper portion of the gallery rather than the lower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For example, these looks natural:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/awqQQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/awqQQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source not identifiable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIlZc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIlZc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.businessinsider.com/thor-ragnarok-new-characters-2017-4#the-two-start-fighting-at-the-end-of-the-trailer-11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUb8A.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rUb8A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source not identifiable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;These look unnatural:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6usne.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6usne.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sources: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.motika.com.mk/prebildani-27-foto/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Left&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brunosfitness.com/category/steroids/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Right&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMqSn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMqSn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source not identifiable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHnb3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nHnb3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/McNeilColin/status/961737527550992384&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;artist not discernable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16541" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-03-08T19:52:20.090" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T19:52:20.090" Title="How do I exaggerate without losing believability?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2023-02-25T19:34:41.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the nature of the diorama that you're making you create the perception of depth (For example, in a river), by painting the riverbed 2-3 shades darker than normal, and then using 2-3 coats of clear varnish to create a thin transparent layer (Or simply a thinner layer of resin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this method but with photosensitive resin rather than epoxy, as it's easier to get the bubbles out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-02-25T19:34:41.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11533" CreationDate="2023-02-26T15:55:22.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presuming that you already have some experience drawing human forms, and that you don't need links to &amp;quot;how to draw&amp;quot; style resources I would suggest that you use a software tool such as DAZ Studio (Free) or Poser (Paid) to generate reference images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both packages have the ability to create custom muscular figures of varying proportions. From biologically accurate to extreme fantasy, and to pose\position them in a representative manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then trace the images that they output, or draw freehand based on the images as you would any other reference piece, until you feel comfortable with drawing muscle figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has the benefit of being able to generate reference images that match your chosen scale, position and perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-02-26T15:55:22.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8893" CreationDate="2023-02-27T02:55:36.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither material is absorbent and both will prevent solvent from evaporating, so a contact cement would be good for this. I don't know what's available in Australia, but 3M makes &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069424/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HI-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive&lt;/a&gt; that sticks to both kinds of materials and should hold up outside in the sun and rain. The link says it's for industrial use but a different color can of the same name is sold in the big hardware chains. Disclaimer: I haven't actually tried it myself (but it's used industrially and commercially).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-02-27T02:55:36.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11539" CreationDate="2023-02-27T07:31:37.537" Score="4" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to experiment with dryer lint&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;; things like blending it into paper pulp to add tiny colored fibers (or making paper just from the lint), and seeing if it might add strength to plaster, cement, or DIY air dry clay. So I need to turn the mats of lint back into individual fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't figure out a way to break it up dry (putting it in a blender dry doesn't work). It doesn't break up when I try agitating it in water by hand. With water in a blender, the lint just wraps itself around the blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a way to turn the mat of lint back into loose fibers? It can be a dry process, or the fibers can end up suspended in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lint_(material)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia: Lint (material)&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Dryer_Lint_Close.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt; on that page.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-02-28T14:37:10.013" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T14:37:10.013" Title="Is there a way to unclump dryer lint?" Tags="|technique-selection|fiber-crafts|upcycling|preparation|material-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11538" CreationDate="2023-02-27T12:01:51.373" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you need to do is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carding the lint&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carding is a process used in spinning fibers like cotton or wool and it disentangles the fibers and arranges them (mostly) in one direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zd5Fu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zd5Fu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;old lady hand carding wool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://nazmiyalantiquerugs.com/area-rug-guide/rug-making/carding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may notice that the traditional hand carders have a striking similarity to some dog grooming tools, so this may be a cheap way to try it:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jGOhsm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jGOhsm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dog grooming brush&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/-/en/ACE2ACE-Brush-Remover-Short-Button/dp/B08881PMQB/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.motherofpurl.net/blog/2018/4/3/how-to-use-wool-hand-carders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tutorial for hand-carding wool&lt;/a&gt;. You need 2 carders, put the lint on one of them and pull it apart by moving both carders in opposite directions while interlocking their barbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-02-27T18:47:11.870" LastActivityDate="2023-02-27T18:47:11.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4139" CreationDate="2023-02-28T04:10:52.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to apply felt for this purpose is to not use your own glue. Self-adhesive felt is sold widely in hardware stores and hobby shops, and available online. Depending on how thick you want it, it's available in sheets of different colors, so you can find a color that blends if any will show, and you can cut it to size. It's also available as small self-adhesive pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going with self-adhesive felt saves the mess of applying glue. The adhesive used is selected for the purpose, so it doesn't have the kinds of potential problems mentioned in some other answers, and it is applied well at the factory. It also saves buying a specialty glue for this purpose that you might not use up before it expires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you have something like felt weather stripping that you want to cut into pads, spread a thin layer of silicone caulk on it and stick it to the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastEditorUserId="16545" LastEditDate="2023-02-28T06:22:23.617" LastActivityDate="2023-02-28T06:22:23.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1808" CreationDate="2023-03-01T09:44:16.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;heat-shrinking tubes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Cut them to the right length (or slightly longer), apply them to the needle, heat them (as a result they will shrink and &amp;quot;embrace&amp;quot; the needle). Wait for them to cool down. Apply as many layers as desired, one by one. There is no risk of spilling or gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably need to buy a few tubes of several diameters, from very thin (to fit on the thinness of the needle) to larger (to reach the final thickness desired).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2023-03-01T09:44:16.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11546" CreationDate="2023-03-02T17:13:20.130" Score="3" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to do low-budget plastic casting. The process is pretty simple. Put Styrofoam in acetone. It dissolves into some goo. Stick the goo in a mold and wait for it to harden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try it, the goo goes into the mold looking good. But after it hardens, it's full of bubbles. It isn't clear where the bubbles are coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air in the Styrofoam bubbles off as the Styrofoam dissolves and shrinks to a tiny amount of goo. To make sure all the air is out, I've even let the goo sit in acetone for days. It goes from white goo to a uniform, translucent gel, which I take to indicate that the last bit of air is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it hardens (which can take weeks for even a thin casting), it's clear and hasn't noticeably shrunk. But now it's full of bubbles that make up a substantial amount of the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some secret to casting with this polystyrene goo to get a solid, bubble-free result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-03-03T17:38:48.803" Title="How to avoid bubbles in castings using dissolved Styrofoam?" Tags="|plastic|casting|material-making|styrofoam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11545" CreationDate="2023-03-02T19:06:04.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there's a secret. You need to use a different solvent if you want no bubbles (but be careful what you wish for).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What the bubbles are&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were breaking down the Styrofoam and using it immediately, some of the bubbles could be the original air. As you discovered, there's still a tiny amount of trapped air initially, which dissipates if you leave the goo in the acetone for a few days. As an example, say 99% of the air is released initially. If the Styrofoam is 95% air, that means you still have roughly 1 part air for every 5 parts polystyrene, which would be a lot of bubbles. But since you're letting all the air dissipate, that isn't the source of your bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you mix polystyrene and a solvent, you can think of the volume of material as roughly the volume of the plastic plus the volume of the solvent. If polystyrene dissolves in that solvent, the distribution of solvent will stay somewhat uniform throughout the material, especially if the material is not too thick. So the material will shrink as the solvent evaporates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polystyrene doesn't dissolve in acetone. If it did, you wouldn't get the goo, it would go into solution and the solvent would become a uniform syrupy liquid. With polystyrene, acetone acts somewhat like water does in clay, it allows the plastic molecules to slide around. That makes it soft, and it loses its structure (and the trapped air).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the goo sits for a long time in acetone undisturbed, the polystyrene settles and compacts a little. After a few weeks, the tightly packed polystyrene goes from translucent to clear, and stabilizes like that. At that point, it isn't gooey or sticky, it's like stiff, rubbery dough. The reason it's like dough instead of plastic is that there is still a lot of acetone in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you make a casting, as the polystyrene solidifies, the trapped acetone collects in pockets. It eventually migrates out, leaving the pockets behind. That's why it doesn't shrink when it hardens. The bubbles will give you an idea of how much of the gel was acetone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want shrinkage, the bubbles are your friend (although it leaves the plastic brittle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Non-bubble&amp;quot; solvent&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want bubbles, you need to use a solvent that polystyrene actually dissolves in. Xylene is one, and can be found in paint departments. Limonene (pure) is another, and can be found online. It's much safer than Xylene (and smells like oranges), but also much more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ramifications to using an actual polystyrene solvent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have plenty of time (days), you can get enough Styrofoam to dissolve to build the concentration to a dense, gel-like consistency that will still self-level in a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While making the gel, when the concentration of plastic gets high and the gel gets dense, the air trapped in the Styrofoam will have a hard time getting out of the gel when the Styrofoam breaks down. You may need to let it sit in a sealed container for weeks to get rid of the bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you keep the mixture no denser than a thick syrup, like honey, the air will get out in a reasonable time. But the material will have a high percentage of solvent and will shrink a lot when it hardens (and the finished plastic will come at the cost of more solvent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't get a nice-to-handle material. Anything between a syrup and soft gel consistency will be sticky and messy to handle. When it gets very dense, it becomes rubbery and loses most of its stickiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With these solvents, the plastic doesn't skin over like it does with acetone. The entire material gets denser and shrinks (although eventually, the surface will harden while the inside is still a bit pliable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The more solvent it contains, the longer it will take for the plastic to harden. Even a thin casting starting with a dense gel can take months to harden throughout. Gel made from acetone hardens much faster (weeks rather than months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The gel will stick to many kinds of plastic that you might use for a mold until it is completely dry and hard at the mold surface, which can take half a year or more just for something thin (unless you use mold release).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stickiness encourages people to use the goo as a general purpose adhesive. It will work for plastics that dissolve in the solvent. But for most other surfaces, it will easily separate once it completely hardens (unless it penetrates the surface and has some mechanical connection).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It can take years for all of the solvent to migrate out. Even after it feels hard and solid (months), there is still some solvent distributed throughout. If you warm the plastic, it will soften and flow again. If you were to cast something and let it harden for months and then leave it in a hot car for hours, you might find that it has slumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've actually used this as an advantage. I made a big batch of xylene gel long ago and kept it sealed in a plastic paint container. Over the years, enough xylene found its way out that it hardened into a tough rubbery material. I cut out chunks of it and warmed it, which turned it back to a dough consistency that could be pressed into a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/Recycling-Styrofoam-EPS-Into-Castable-Styrene-Plas/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Recycling Styrofoam (EPS) Into Useable Castable Styrene Plastic at Home&lt;/a&gt; describes that author's experiments. They came up with a similar solution as their best way to mold recycled Styrofoam. They dissolve the Styrofoam in limonene and then dry it to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gummy_bear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;gummy bear&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; consistency. They put chunks in a mold and heat it in a toaster oven. It melts and flows to fill the mold, and they bake it for a while to drive off some of the solvent. When it cools, they have a solid plastic casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Helpful Hints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With an actual polystyrene solvent, you can speed hardening by leaving it in a hot place for a few days (xylene boils at 281°F, limonene at 349°F, so if you bake it at too high a temperature, the solvent could create bubbles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acetone boils at 133°F, so if you warm the acetone goo much above the temperature of hot water from your faucet, you might get even more bubbles. But you could experiment with keeping the mold warm below that temperature to see if that drives out acetone to reduce the bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The limonene method described in the link is a nice solution, but it will be very expensive &amp;quot;free&amp;quot; plastic. You can reduce the amount of limonene required by substituting time. Do the Styrofoam dissolving in a sealable, see-through jar. Keep adding Styrofoam to the gel until the Styrofoam doesn't quickly break down. Seal the jar and leave it for a few hours or overnight. If the Styrofoam has all dissolved, repeat with a little more Styrofoam until you get a gel that still has tiny remnants of Styrofoam the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go too far and have chunks of Styrofoam that won't dissolve, add a small amount of limonene and let the sealed jar sit overnight. If necessary, repeat until all of it breaks down except for some tiny remnants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the sealed jar sit in a bath of very hot water until the Styrofoam remnants disappear and all of the air bubbles have migrated out (likely many hours to a day). That will give you much denser gel to start with, getting more plastic out of the limonene. You will still need to let limonene evaporate to gummy bear consistency if you want to minimize shrinkage and produce a hard plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because of the inherent problems (bubbles or shrinkage and ridiculous hardening times), polystyrene gel can be more useful as a binder for filler material if you don't need it to be clear. If the gel is just filling the voids in packed filler, the mixture won't shrink when it hardens. With significantly less gel, plus filler for structure, it will also harden faster. You can use almost any dry, cheap material as filler, which saves most of the plastic needed (and the cost of the solvent). The mixture will be like sticky clay that you press into the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this form, it will become hard enough to handle sooner (but you may need mold release to easily and cleanly demold it before it is completely hard throughout). If you use a filler that doesn't slump, you can demold it when it's hard enough to handle without damage, and put it on an elevated screen to let it dry from both sides (warming it will speed the drying more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the plastic doesn't need to be clear (e.g., it will get painted), and you don't want to mess with blending filler, acetone makes sense. The whole process is much faster, it is easier to handle, and you don't get the shrinkage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that polystyrene, at least made this way, breaks down in the stong UV of sunlight. Anything you make from the gel won't survive outdoors long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-03-03T17:38:48.803" LastActivityDate="2023-03-03T17:38:48.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11533" CreationDate="2023-03-02T22:50:51.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed practicing it's the key to reach your desired result. Oractuce both drawing from real life and your memory/imagination. Also, keep an eye on how your favourite artists work on proportions in their artwork. Investigate and try to understand what they wanted to tell by modifying proportions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A classic example of this can be the David sculpture by M.A Buonarotti. His hands are huge compared to that of a teenager (and that without mention his facial features).&#xA;with this, Buonarotti wanted to talk about how strong was David, determined to defeat Goliath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/76fT3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/76fT3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Just compare the sizes of the head and the hand&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the other hand, Comics are the best example of exaggeration, just see Matteo Scalera's work (Black Science for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZMN7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZMN7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;See how he stretch and shrink the masses of the bodies&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a good tip to create consistent characters, you should keep an eye on the silhouette of them. Usually we can recognise someone by his silhouette, it's like a stamp in our minds. So it's good to start character designs with some thumbnails focusing just in the silhouette. Also, doing this you will be defining the anatomy of the character, and then you can decide what you are coing to exaggerate basing on what the character is and how the character behaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope these tips to be useful. When comes to art, there is no such thing as a right solution. Do not get discouraged if the result is not fine, try to change what is not working on your drawing. You will eventually get good results if you keep on it, that is for sure always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16583" LastActivityDate="2023-03-02T22:50:51.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11533" CreationDate="2023-03-03T07:44:48.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, &lt;strong&gt;look at actual strongmen and heavy lifters and don't exaggerate at all&lt;/strong&gt;. There's a difference between &lt;strong&gt;bulky and balloony&lt;/strong&gt;. The more you exaggerate, the less natural it looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower images of your question are all &lt;strong&gt;examples of body building&lt;/strong&gt; with the goal to make individual muscles as visible as possible. But these muscles aren't stronger than those of your average construction worker. They are just more visible, usually because they are trained specifically for visibility instead of strength and the body builders deprive their bodies of the natural layer of skin fat that would cushion them. Most (if not all) of the extreme examples also use substances to make their muscles grow bigger than natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as an example, let's have a look at an old image of a young Arnold Schwarzenegger:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/veOTtm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/veOTtm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nzz.ch/feuilleton/arnold-schwarzenegger-der-mann-der-sich-dauernd-neu-erfindet-ld.1695206&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, actually &lt;strong&gt;physical strength&lt;/strong&gt; looks different. Here's a list of the objectively (measured in a contest) &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World%27s_Strongest_Man#Championship_breakdown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;strongest men on earth&lt;/a&gt;. Click through a few of the names to see photos of the people. As an example, here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Stoltman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom Stoltman&lt;/a&gt;, winner of the 2022 competition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DAEPSm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DAEPSm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/BeingScots/status/1406886895506837509&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the similarities?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both men have a wide, bulky body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bulk is centered around the upper chest and upper arms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are wide (side to side) and flat (front to back). Although in real life there are several strongmen who have quite a tummy. That doesn't impede their physical strength at all, it's just not how the general public imagines a strongman to look like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the differences?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schwarzeneggers muscles are visually defined. You see the outlines of each individual muscle. (This is even more exaggerated by the lighting). If you exaggerate that even more by making them bigger, it looks like a bunch of balloons stuck under his skin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Stoltmans body the ridges between his muscles are visible, but faint. Over all, his body is smoother than those of body builders. There is no muscle group that sticks out like a balloon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stoltmans muscles are actually smaller than those of extreme body builders. &lt;strong&gt;Size does not equal strength&lt;/strong&gt;, so making muscles bigger than those 2 examples does not make your character look stronger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you show the strngth of your character? By their actions. Superman never needed bulky muscles to lift a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-03-03T21:09:22.767" LastActivityDate="2023-03-03T21:09:22.767" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11562" CreationDate="2023-03-03T21:36:13.287" Score="6" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to recreate a certain type of costume:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVvV5m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVvV5m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Image source and copyright: Heimatmuseum Dahme&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My specific problem is that the black stripes on the skirt are supposed to be velvet. As far as I know there could be beads and braids involved, but the material for the main stripes always has to be velvet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The skirt in the example has very faint vertical stripes, which are also visible in the areas of the velvet decoration, so they are cutouts in the velvet instead of inserts of fabric. In some stripes quite clear that a wide strip of velvet was cut into 2 halves with a wavy or zig-zag cut in the middle and both halves were sewn a distant apart. I thought about building the patterns from narrow velvet ribbons, but that doesn't work with the many wavy or zig-zag lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oNnD9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oNnD9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that velvet frays a lot and sheds fibers when it's cut. So how is it possible to create such intricate designs as seen here, especially the elongated hexagons?&#xA;Can I buy a yard of tightly woven cotton velvet (about 450 g / m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) and cut zigzags and waves like that without it disintegrating? Or how do I need to pre-treat velvet in order to have it not fray?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My velvet arrived and just for completeness I want to post the result of my quick-and-dirty test swatch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3bGV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3bGV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is untreated cotton velvet (ca. 350 g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) and from the left to the golden stripe is the salvage edge. It's sewn onto the fabric with a narrow (ca. 5 mm) zig-zag stitch, but all of the cut edges fray and shed velvet fluff like crazy. I can rip the velvet from the fabric with little force (see upper strip, the black outline is the few threads that are still sewn onto the fabric) and I suspect it would look similar after being washed. The zig-zag cut of the lower strip is still attached to the fabric, but it's already so frayed that you can see the red fabric through all the holes. &lt;strong&gt;Velvet definitely needs some kind of treatment on the back of the fabric to hold the threads in place.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-03-13T06:45:49.503" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T06:45:49.503" Title="How to cut intricate patterns from velvet?" Tags="|material-selection|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-03T23:07:16.987" Score="2" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small branch of a silver pine (freshly cut, with needles still attached) and I’d like to cast it in epoxy. I’ve built a mold about 24 x 26 x 6 cm (9.45 x 10.24 x 2.36 in). The volume is roughly 3.7 l.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve not worked with epoxy before, but I wanted to cast this branch as a memento of a tree that’s been in our yard for 30 years and just got cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve seen that you usually have to work with dry flowers or wood when using epoxy and add layers 1 cm at a time over the course of multiple days in order to avoid overheating the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it realistic to make such a big cast? Would epoxy work well with a fresh branch that’s probably got a bunch of water and sap in it? What should I do to keep the branch intact, if at all possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16593" LastActivityDate="2023-03-04T15:54:32.183" Title="Is it possible to cast a pine branch in epoxy resin" Tags="|epoxy-resin|casting|plants|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11550" CreationDate="2023-03-04T09:41:11.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible? Yes. Is it easy? Not quite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, if there are any more branches left, grab a few, just to have some extra in case something goes wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem to tackle is the moisture. It is possible to cast fresh plant materiel in resin, but the moisture will be trapped inside and rot the branch over time. Put the branch in a container that's just big enough and gently pour simple table salt over it until it's completely covered. You can find numerous tutorials for drying flowers like that. I would probably let it sit for at least 2 weeks to make sure all the moisture is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next is the mold. Either make sure it's made of a material epoxy doesn't stick to or apply a generous amount of mold release prior to casting. You should also consider that your mold is quite big and the resin itself has a mass that pushes the mold walls outwards. I would build a cardbord or wood scaffold around the mold to keep it in shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next question is: which resin to use? 4 liters of epoxy are going to be expensive, but the expensive stuff may be well worth it. Resins in general have the problem that they come out yellowish and further yellow over time. If you want a crystal clear cast, you need to use crystal clear resin. For castings I prefer resins with a low viscosity (thin texture) and a long curing time, like 24 hours or more. Those give air bubbles time to rise and don't overheat as quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a vacuum or pressure chamber, that can help avoiding air bubbles. A vacuum chamber only has to be big enough to accommodate one cup of freshly mixed resin. A pressure chamber must accommodate the whole cast, since it has to pressurized during the curing time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you prepare the actual pour, please consider your own health and safety first. Only work outside or in a very well ventilated room. Always wear gloves that are safe for the resin you use (nitrile for epoxy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the safety data sheet of your chosen resin, it should tell you the maximum thickness you can pour. This information is important because epoxy cures in an exothermic reaction and heats up. If you pour too much at once, the resin heats up to boiling and starts bubbling, which ruins your cast. If your mold is heat-insulating (like surrounded by a wooden box) cut the thickness in half to be on the safe side. It should be easy enough to calculate the volume of resin you can pour to the maximum thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When actually pouring, mix the 2 components as closely as possible to the ratio given by the manufacturer. Keep in mind that some ratios are given in volume and some in weight. Stir the components carefully (to not introduce air bubbles) but thoroughly. If you have a vacuum chamber, put the cup in to release all air bubbles. Pour in a thin stream aiming for a corner of the mold and let the resin spread out naturally. Dislodge big air bubbles with a wooden skewer or similar tool. If you have a pressure chamber, put the mold in to let it cure, otherwise lightly cover the top to avoid dust or dirt and let it cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next layer should ideally be poured after the first layer has become hard, but still tacky. The instructions or safety data sheet of your specific resin should give you specific information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After everything is finished, you should keep the cast out of direct sunlight. Even crystal clear epoxy will yellow over time, especially when exposed to UV light. I've had a cast turn amber after sitting on a window sill for a month in summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-03-04T15:54:32.183" LastActivityDate="2023-03-04T15:54:32.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-06T07:47:08.137" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;The theory, as far as I am told, is that paper is too absorbent for acrylic paint, so it makes it dry too fast and prevents blending.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;But is it so?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'll explain how this question came up.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Anyone who's already got the answer, please feel free to skip the explanation and go to the last paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complete beginner in acrylic painting, I bought some acrylic paper (290 gsm), some student-grade paint and paintbrushes from an arts &amp;amp; crafts shop, and gave it a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may make you laugh, but what I attempted first thing was blending (I know...), with a fairly large (probably 1 cm or so) flat hog bristles brush (yep), using ultramarine blue and lemon yellow.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can imagine the streak-fest that ensued, with no indication of blending whatsoever. The paintbrush is now permanently stained blue.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Even just trying to paint normally, I couldn't go over a previously made brushstroke without stripping parts of it off. And I wasn't really applying any crazy pressure.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So I was wondering: how would one be able to blend by drawing the paintbrush over paint that is already there, if it lifts it off instead of mixing the colours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, back to the drawing board :), I watched many YouTube videos on acrylic painting, e.g. those by Art Sherpa + others, and learned a lot, including the fact that I needed possibly even heavier paper, and that my paper needed to be &lt;strong&gt;primed&lt;/strong&gt;, despite being marked as 'for acrylic'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried two priming techniques I found: A) acrylic medium with 3 coats of gesso on top, B) 3 coats of white acrylic straight on paper.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This was fairly painful, to be honest. Not only it took ages, but despite taping down the paper, it also really warped a lot, and only after several days it flattened a bit, still bumpy though.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I would not be very motivated to paint if I had to go through this each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime I also bought (what I am told is) better paint (among others, some Talens Amsterdam, not the Expert one, just the basic one for now; some Winsor &amp;amp; Newton Galeria is on its way today).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it was thanks to the better paint or to the priming, or a combination of the two, but at least I was now able to dilute the colours more and paint smoother, longer strokes without seeing much lifting of previously made ones.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Still no joy with blending though. It just was not possible to drag the paintbrush in the area between two colours and have them mix on the canvas (what I now know is called 'wet on wet blending').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still made a few paintings just to try (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjCGJb5ltZM&amp;amp;list=PLBh_3EUqSVyekPokIVAZMtD800KtQEn_J&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-Vh7N-jKKw&amp;amp;list=PLBh_3EUqSVyekPokIVAZMtD800KtQEn_J&amp;amp;index=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JrXhYv_4mw&amp;amp;list=RDCMUCe2-08Jqy85scSe5lGXPCvQ&amp;amp;index=26&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Yes, I know I am crazy, I went for paintings with &lt;em&gt;the highest&lt;/em&gt; possible amount of blending required, and two of them were even meant for oil in the first place. Pushing myself? Or just plain silly?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Unsurprisingly, the choppy, blocky look of the sky and sea really ruins them, so I would still be able to find a way to blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's the &lt;strong&gt;big surprise&lt;/strong&gt;. I spotted &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yt4iCoO7et0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; where the painter shows she makes preparatory sketches in a simple light paper sketchbook.  I thought, hold on, I have a sketchbook, a 120 gsm with nothing special to it. Had some leftover primary blue and titanium white from a session I had just finished. Took a flat 7 mm synthetic flat brush, put down some blue next to some white, and: 1) absolutely smooth brushstrokes, no sign of paint lifting off or breaking; 2) when I tried blending horizontally, I got the smoothest, most seamless gradient of blue; 3) no taping, just clamped the paper down, and it almost did not warp at all!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I then went on to paint a dawn sky on another page of the sketchbook, same story, absolutely smooth and much more effective than any heavier paper, primed or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/3273/how-can-i-paint-consistently-coloured-lines-with-acrylic-paint/8254#8254&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; where priming is mentioned, and it seems to me that it is assumed that priming &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am now left with some doubts: do I need to prime paper at all? As it's apparently not helping me blend acrylics better, am I doing it wrong? If I gave up priming paper and painted straight on acrylic/watercolour 290+ gsm, or lighter, would my paintings deteriorate with time?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'm obviously no Caravaggio, but I'd still like them to last a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16604" LastActivityDate="2023-03-06T21:04:59.223" Title="is priming really necessary for heavy acrylic or watercolour paper, and should it help blending acrylics?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|blending|surface-preparation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-06T10:40:13.910" Score="0" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;As follow-up to my previous question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/11533/how-do-i-exaggerate-without-losing-believability&quot;&gt;How do I exaggerate without losing believability?&lt;/a&gt;, I'm trying to draw a large, bulky character that has an exaggerated, but still believable, physique. I'm trying to understand how body proportions would differ between a character with a large body frame vs. a normal-sized character so that I can appropriately exaggerate the physique but still have it look natural and believable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do body proportions differ between a naturally large body frame physique and naturally small body frame physique (what characteristics make a physique large body frame vs. small body frame)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice people can share on how much the physique can be exaggerated before it loses realism would also be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large Body Frame example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKfqS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKfqS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Large Frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i0.wp.com/teaser-trailer.com/wp-content/uploads/Jumanji-Movie-BTS-Picture-2.jpg?ssl=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small Body Frame example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LrpYh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LrpYh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Small Frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image source unidentifiable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16541" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-03-06T21:08:44.833" LastActivityDate="2023-03-06T21:13:41.797" Title="Difference in proportionality of a large body frame character vs small body frame character" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11553" CreationDate="2023-03-06T20:19:11.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By realism, I assume you mean something that looks &amp;quot;natural&amp;quot; for a human.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purpose, lets exclude physiques that are extremely atypical for medical reasons. Genetic or hormonal abnormalities can produce unusually short or tall stature that is also atypically proportioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, recognize that what you're referring to as &amp;quot;large frame&amp;quot; has a complex relationship with height. People tend to associate &amp;quot;big&amp;quot; with tall. A surprising number of &amp;quot;bad-ass&amp;quot; Hollywood action stars who look big on-screen, are actually short, and camera tricks are used to make them look big relative to the other actors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large and small frame is somewhat of a misnomer. Skeletons are shorter or taller, but otherwise surprisingly similar. The bones can get thicker and stronger if they are asked to support more weight or anchor more strenuous muscle activity, but that doesn't contribute much to the physique. What you see as the physique is primarily the muscle and fat. Take some stereotypical examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skinny teenage computer geek, no athletics:&lt;/strong&gt; Minimal muscle development, and little body fat because a high metabolism and rapidly growing body burn off calories. Dwayne Johnson in your picture here was always &amp;quot;big&amp;quot;, but take Arnold Schwarzenneger, pictured in Elmy's answer to your previous question. Here's what he looked like as a school-aged kid:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ib1SM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ib1SM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.needsomefun.net/10-arnold-schwarzenegger-childhood-photos-revealed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Someone with significant obesity but still active:&lt;/strong&gt; They are carrying a lot of extra weight in the form of body fat and excess skin. So everything they do builds muscle (although their heart and lungs might not have the capacity to support endurance for athletic activity). Some of the body fat will be distributed all over, and some may collect in specific areas. If most of the fat is well-distributed and the skin is still very elastic, the person can look &amp;quot;big&amp;quot; but not unnaturally proportioned. That was sometimes referred to euphemistically as &amp;quot;large framed&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Construction worker or lumberjack:&lt;/strong&gt; They are likely to have well developed muscles everywhere and some well-distributed body fat. They may look big but fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Athlete:&lt;/strong&gt; They will have well-developed muscles. If they focus on a single sport, specific muscles may become especially developed. Depending on the sport, they may have limited body fat because they burn off calories and avoid excess weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Body builder:&lt;/strong&gt; They have extremely over-developed muscles (even if they don't use steroids to make them artificially even bigger). To make the muscles more visible, they purposely get rid of almost all body fat. Body builders competing for the big titles will try to over-develop muscles everywhere, so at least it's uniform (like that picture of Arnold in Elmy's answer, reposted below for reference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/veOTtm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/veOTtm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nzz.ch/feuilleton/arnold-schwarzenegger-der-mann-der-sich-dauernd-neu-erfindet-ld.1695206&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That doesn't look natural in the sense that a human would normally look like that without serious intervention, but it also doesn't look like a different species. Many people find it at least interesting and not unpleasant to look at. Using steroids to grow ridiculous-sized muscles in specific places while other areas are normal size stands out as strange, like the &amp;quot;unnatural&amp;quot; pictures in your previous question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pictures of the same person before and after some physical development:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9aWiL.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9aWiL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/1101833865053371090/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Source&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The after picture looks like the person is wider and has a larger frame. The difference is primarily muscle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastActivityDate="2023-03-06T20:19:11.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11552" CreationDate="2023-03-06T20:44:55.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The paper has little to nothing to do with the blend-ability of acrylic paint, though the &amp;quot;tooth&amp;quot; or surface texture of the ground may be a factor. Think gessoed panel vs burlap or cold press watercolor paper, the former may make blends appear smoother because it is a smoother surface. Counter to that a very smooth surface will not hold on to the paint and it will just smear around instead of blending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are encountering here is just a quality of acrylics in general. They dry fast naturally, much faster than oils. Some ways of working  around that is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slow the drying time using a retarder and/or acrylic medium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;premix intermediate colors for the blend so you are making smaller jumps between blended colors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make the paints more &amp;quot;wet&amp;quot; so they are looser and can mix more easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use overlapping textured application of the steps of the blend so that though they remain discrete colors they appear to blend to the eye&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use soft bristle brushes like sable, real or synthetic, since stiffer bristles are going to show more brush stroke and less blending. (This would be the case with any medium btw.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priming is usually done to protect the ground from the solvents in the paint as well as make a better more permanent surface to paint on. A nice thing about acrylics is they they don't destroy the paper so can be used on unprimed grounds unlike oil based paints which will break down the fibers over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2023-03-06T21:04:59.223" LastActivityDate="2023-03-06T21:04:59.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2023-03-07T06:39:36.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know how it was done traditionally, but I have alternatives of the same &amp;quot;modern&amp;quot; solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the velvet, &amp;quot;paint&amp;quot; the contour you want with glue. When the glue is cured, cut the contour (the velvet) through the glue. Make sure you leave some glue on the side which you want protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a support fabric, lay it on a flat surface. Apply a layer glue on the support fabric, then lay the velvet on the glued fabric (they should become one - as a sandwich). After curing, cut the shapes that you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the glue needs to remain flexible after curing. When fresh, the glue needs to be quite fluid, to allow it to penetrate the fabrics and do its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2023-03-07T06:45:20.563" LastActivityDate="2023-03-07T06:45:20.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2023-03-07T06:43:36.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A totally different answer, more on the traditional side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply the velvet on the target. Sew it good. At the end, cut along the path, preserving the sewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exactly the technique when creating buttonholes. They do the same in factories when sewing t-shirts, but there they use special machines which cut while (immediately after) sewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: According to a comment, the industrial machines cut &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the stitching. Since you are unlikely to replicate their behavior in a simple home environment without highly specialized machines, please do NOT cut &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt;, unless you do it on your own responsibility :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2023-03-07T18:56:09.093" LastActivityDate="2023-03-07T18:56:09.093" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4047" CreationDate="2023-03-07T10:30:45.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option for fabric origami is lightweight polyester because it can still hold the pleats after being washed. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://sewguide.com/pleated-fabrics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sewguide.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polyester is the favourite for making the pre-pleated fabric. On polyester, the pleats formed remain the same for the life of the fabric. The soft, smooth and lightweight and flowy nature of polyester fabrics, especially polyester chiffon fabrics makes it a popular choice in dressmaking. Other best fabrics preferred for pleating are silk and wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still get the same advantage from a blended fabric of at least 65% polyester content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several natural types of fabric that pleat very well, like linen or cotton but these also tend to accumulate additional creases from being handled or worn. That makes silk or wool suiting the best natural options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important secret lies in the process of pleating. Synthetic fibers pleat when they are hot, natural fibers when they cool down. That means the safest way to pleat any fabric is to get it hot and wet, put it into the desired shape and hold it there until it's cooled and dry again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're pleating fabric with an iron, pass the iron over it (steam intensifies the creases) and then keep the fabric in position until it's cooled down again. You can use a wooden board called a &amp;quot;clapper&amp;quot; to press the fabric while it cools down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fabric origami you need 2 thin cardboard pieces that are prefolded in the tessellation pattern. Sandwich the fabric between both templates, fold them up and bind them tightly with some strings or ribbons. Then steam the whole package for half an hour (or longer for thicker packages containing lots of fabric) and let it cool down completely. You get a better result if you can pressurize the fabric package while steaming, for example in a pressure cooker. Only unfold the package after it's cooled down all the way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard or read somewhere that adding vinegar to the steaming water is supposed to help permanently pleating the fabric, but I cannot find a source right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-03-07T10:30:45.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11561" CreationDate="2023-03-07T10:30:47.573" Score="4" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is using glue a secure and professional method for attaching fully drilled pearls and other natural beads to 18k gold jewellery pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you provide guidance on a recommended method for carefully inserting them onto the post without using glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of how the emeralds and carnelians are set onto the posts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G9boM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G9boMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td style=&quot;text-align: center;&quot;&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cartier.com/it-it/gioielleria/collezione-di-gioielleria/cactus-de-cartier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cartier&lt;/a&gt; (from a line called Cactus de Cartier—this specific product seems to be no longer available). Click for larger image.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="16610" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-03-08T17:33:08.350" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T17:33:08.350" Title="Attaching Pearls to 18k Gold Jewelry: Professional Techniques" Tags="|jewelry|technique-selection|stones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11560" CreationDate="2023-03-07T10:54:09.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, glue is &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; acceptable in professional jewelry making, regardless of the materials used (usually, none of them are cheap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I see two slightly different solutions. Both of them require you to weld the pins (poles) to the ring. The difference is when you attach the pearl: before welding or after welding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pins come with the head pre-formed, then you have only one chance, to weld the pins to the ring &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; you attach the pearl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure that the pins will not escape the welding and fall, you should make holes in the ring, install the pins into the holes, and then weld the pins to the ring from the inside of the ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both mechanical shocks (e.g., using a hammer for the forming of the pin head) &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; high temperatures (from welding) might destroy the pearls. You need to work carefully and plan ahead for everything you need to do. Jewelry making is not something to be done in a hurry and without thinking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As far as I know, there is no glue able to attach the pins to the ring without the risk of losing them later. And gluing the pearls directly to the pin and to the ring sounds like an abomination - which I would never do if I were to make jewelry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2023-03-08T15:15:44.647" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T15:15:44.647" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11549" CreationDate="2023-03-07T15:09:53.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few options I can see to execute this design cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a laser cutter&lt;/strong&gt; to cut the velvet. This will slightly melt the edges of the fabric, preventing it from fraying. Full synthetic velvet will be fully sealed, and velvet from natural fibers will have minimal fraying. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mellowpine.com/cnc/laser-cutting-fabric/#:%7E:text=Velvet,-Velvet%20fabric&amp;amp;text=Velvet%20is%20a%20man%2Dmade,sealed%20edge%20with%20no%20fraying.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a product like Fray-Check&lt;/strong&gt; on the back of the fabric to seal the edges, before or after cutting. Anti-fraying products tend to have a thin superglue-like consistency and you'll want to test them before using them to make sure they don't bleed through to the pile and damage the appearance of the velvet. Application will likely be easiest prior to cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a &amp;quot;reverse applique&amp;quot; technique.&lt;/strong&gt; In this technique, you'll sew a panel of velvet behind the red fabric, then stitch in the edges of the design you wish to create. After cutting away the fabric in front, the velvet will be revealed, and you can then finish off the edges of the red top layer. You'll be left with a very similar look without the issue of shedding or fraying from the velvet being cut, including leaving the pattern in the red fabric aligned between pieces. You can find numerous tutorials on the process online; here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://sewguide.com/reverse-applique-tutorial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic guide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more I look at the original image, the more I feel it's likely that the original process used was Reverse Applique. It's a very old technique highly compatible with hand-sewing, which likely was how a dress like that would have been produced historically. It's likely also the most time-consuming process, so if the goal is replication of the appearance over historical accuracy, the other options will provide a similar look more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2023-03-08T15:33:35.657" LastActivityDate="2023-03-08T15:33:35.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5590" CreationDate="2023-03-10T01:14:16.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to play with ideas for mechanisms, I've used corrugated cardboard. You cut out a disk for the body. For the teeth, use a sheet of &amp;quot;one-sided corrugated cardboard&amp;quot; (just the backing and corrugations; it bends), or strip off one layer of paper from corrugated cardboard, and cut long, thin strips. Glue the strip around the disk. The corrugations are very uniform and will mesh like gears. It's pretty crude, and the teeth won't hold up to stress, but it's fast to make. You can make the teeth stronger by gluing in short pieces of something that fits the hole, like a skewer (corrugation sizes vary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLJu7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLJu7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/209558188903141873/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Credit: Education.com on Pinterest&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another fast solution is how gears were made before there were modern gears. One gear is a disk with pins radiating out. The mating gear is a carousel with vertical pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pgO2E.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pgO2E.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.efunda.com/designstandards/gears/gears_history.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Credit: Efunda Engineering Fundamentals&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This style is fast to create and will work with cheap materials like cardboard and skewers or round toothpicks, with more reliable mating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgAmC8tF-ws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; combining a cardboard gear with a carousel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for something good enough to be permanent, actual gears (replace them with laser-cut acrylic only if you need the appearance), you can make them from PVC pipe. A good video of how to do it: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtmMNt2ke4g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Make Plastic Gear at Home&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/owmoy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/owmoy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the basic technique:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a flat panel of PVC from PVC pipe. There are online videos on how to do that. Basically, you cut a section of PVC pipe, slit it lengthwise, warm it with a heat gun, flatten it into a sheet, and weight it down with something flat while it cools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a paper template for the gear. You can do that on a computer and print it. The video shows how to do it with a compass. Glue the template to the PVC panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the outer disk of the gear from the panel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The video shows how to make a V-shaped cutting tool from sheet metal that fastens into a soldering iron and easily cuts out the gap between the teeth. That example uses the casing from a dry cell battery, but you could use any heavyish sheet metal, or probably even a soda can if you don't apply too much pressure. The teeth can be further shaped with a file if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you put in the work to make a gear from PVC pipe, you can make a mold of it and cast more if you need more of the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastEditorUserId="16545" LastEditDate="2023-03-10T14:49:02.277" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T14:49:02.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="607" CreationDate="2023-03-10T18:22:48.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may take some of the guesswork out of the process to use a microwave flower drying kit. These became available after this question was asked. Microwave ovens vary in power, so there is still some experimentation involved, but the kits simplify the process and remove some of the variables, and the materials are optimized for the process. The kits also come with instructions and guidance so you aren't starting from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of several models in different sizes under the name &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09GXQHYCK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aboofx&lt;/a&gt; and there may be others. I haven't personally used one yet, but have seen crafter videos where they do. One is demonstrated in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bOFLaYyaEc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;. They appear to do a good job and the crafters swear by them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to get one this spring and will supplement this answer with my own experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-03-10T18:22:48.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11568" CreationDate="2023-03-11T18:58:09.053" Score="3" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a beginner hobbyist painter (using acrylics at the moment), I am trying to learn the basics and do some practice, and found the videos made by a US guy ('Paint Coach') very instructive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 questions regarding &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLgIyFXbvj8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, where a still life with 3 green apples on a pink background is suggested as a way to study colour transitions, shadows, reflected light etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does it make sense to attempt this using acrylics, although it's originally done in oil?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My idea was that the exercise was mostly about learning about values, hues, etc. than about oil per se or about getting a painting exactly matching the instructor's one. Just checking with you if my assumption is correct or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How would you go about mixing the various colours for the apples (using acrylics)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I tried it out earlier today :), and my main issue was the colour mixing part, especially for the apples (more &lt;em&gt;optional&lt;/em&gt; details/explanations below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the advised blocking method, I had to mix first a dark green and a light yellow-green.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;That however resulted in the former being more a dull olive green, and the latter a much more vibrant and too light green.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;From there it was all very challenging to lighten and darken the colours to make the 'in-between' shades.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To make things worse, the paint, being acrylic, started filming and drying on the palette, so I could not inter-mix, ended up making some more greens and getting even more 'off' hues.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In essence, the result was very noisy and lacking harmony, with bright, cold greens next to dark, warm ones, really fighting each other instead of looking like they belonged together.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So I wonder if the trick that I missed was to make some sort of initial 'reference' green, to darken and lighten more conservatively, to maintain some harmony and coherence in the final palette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I can show that &lt;a href=&quot;https://krita.org/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Krita&lt;/a&gt; identifies just a limited and more harmonious set of colours in the reference photo (I set the max to 20).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CxQl0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CxQl0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be able to make all these colours by making only some of them first, and then branch out by inter-mixing or dulling/lightening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought/doubt: perhaps this exercise was too hard for a complete beginner? Maybe I should have started with a simple sphere lit from one side, without reflected light, trying to give it form and volume by lightening and darkening only one basic colour.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or would that be wrong, too, meaning, would I still need to mix rather different hues to start with and do a lot of inter-mixing and transitions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I watched these two IMO very nice videos regarding colour mixing, and I learned a lot from them (but clearly then I still do not know what I must do exactly in practice):&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQYcG4Km1-k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQYcG4Km1-k&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYGi18U4D4M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYGi18U4D4M&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found something using Krita, which may (partly) answer my question 2.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When you pick a colour from the reference image, Krita's 'Advanced Colour Selector' shows you where it is located in a HSV map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understood correctly what this tells me, it looks as though, for all the apparent complexity of the green apples still life I am discussing here, all the greens are just different tints or shades of about the same yellow-green hue, and all the pinks, including the shadows, come from the same rather pure red hue. The only exception is the reflected pinkish light on the apples, which sits more in a yellow-orange hue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sampling from the top of an apple&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QppUJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QppUJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sampling from the lighter part of the shadow on the pink background&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yUwE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yUwE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sampling from the reflected light&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0smGR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0smGR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The little line you see on the hue wheel almost does not move when I stay in the same 'object', only the dot moves around inside the triangle.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I am interpreting this as in: you can get all the apple greens by lightening or darkening a basic yellow-green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming this is the case, the question will be if I am able to do it in practice, mixing actual colours from tubes.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For this reason, &lt;em&gt;my question 2 is still not fully answered: I do not know if this strategy is correct or if it would work in practice, in particular with acrylics.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact though, even before finding out the above, that's what I had done for the pink background and its shadows: I took some magenta, added some primary yellow to shift it towards red, lightened with titanium white for the lighter parts, and darkened it (with considerable difficulty and trial+error) with primary blue + primary yellow for the shadows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing is certain: nowhere in the reference image do I find the cold, bluish greens I had used in my first attempt, perhaps explaining why I found the result so odd and lacking harmony.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16604" LastEditorUserId="16604" LastEditDate="2023-03-12T13:42:36.747" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T11:19:15.420" Title="colour mixing for a still life with apples" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|color|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11565" CreationDate="2023-03-12T20:30:49.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, the video tutorial is really good and valuable for beginners, but as you noticed yourself, acrylic paints behave differently and require a different painting method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First &lt;strong&gt;my thoughts about the tutorial&lt;/strong&gt;: everything he says about composition and simplification, brushstrokes, hues and values is correct for both acrylic and oil paintings. All of it is important to really understand and internalize for any artist who wants to improve their paintings. Unfortunately he cannot go into detail in such a short video, so maybe look for additional tutorials about each individual topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing that is not applicable to acrylic paints is the visual part where you see him actually painting the apples. Oil paints need a very long time to dry so it's easy to mix different paints directly on the canvas (wet on wet). Acrylic paints dry too fast for that and you mostly need to mix wet on dry, which requires you to apply several slightly transparent layers instead of one fully opaque one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/eQianIC5oMM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tutorial by Drawing &amp;amp; Painting - The Virtual Instructor&lt;/a&gt; is more helpful. It's also about painting an apple, but with acrylic paints. The author describes the meaning of an underpainting (painting only the value, not the hue) and how to gradually build up the apple from a very simplified first layer of hues to adding gradually more details and depth to the colors. You'll find many parallels to your original oil painting tutorial, but applied in a way that's more relevant to acrylic paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to &lt;strong&gt;the clashing colors&lt;/strong&gt;: If you start your painting with clashing base colors, you always create stark contrasts, a &amp;quot;noisy&amp;quot; painting that many describe as having a &amp;quot;high energy&amp;quot; and lacking harmony. It feels agitating instead of calming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you already suspected, &lt;strong&gt;you should start your painting with a single base tone&lt;/strong&gt; for each object. One base green for the apples and one base pink for the background. It should be a medium brightness relative to points of light reflections and shadows. You don't have to use a single base tone from a tube of paint, you can mix it, but you should limit yourself to a mix of 2 paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you can lighten up the paint by mixing it with bright yellow (or a mix of yellow and white) or a lighter color of the same tone (like a lighter green). You can darken it by mixing it with brown (for warm colors), dark blue (for cold colors) or a classic mix of Prussian blue, madder red and chrome oxide green. You can decrease the saturation by mixing it with white, black or grey. And you can &amp;quot;break&amp;quot; or mute the color by mixing it with the opposite on the color wheel (this one actually has a tendency to contrast or clash with the base tone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the lower left corner of the oil painting tutorial at 2:30. You see the palette with the medium green used for the first blocks of green on the apples. At 2:42 you see the lighter green is mixed by adding a big blob of yellow to the first base tone. From 3:09 - 3:20 you see more and more small blobs of colors touching the base green and being mixed with it. That way you can create a great number of colors that are much more likely to harmonize with each other. You also give yourself a chance of achieving very similar tones from the same limited number of paints after the first batch dried on your palette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tip for &lt;strong&gt;keeping your paints wet&lt;/strong&gt; is using a &amp;quot;wet palette&amp;quot;. It's a sponge in a water filled container, topped with a sheet of water-resistant paper. I myself crafted such a wet palette from an empty plastic food container, a cheap sponge I cut to size and some parchment paper for baking. The greased baking paper doesn't allow the water to soak into the paints, it has to be parchment paper because that is still slightly water-permeable. Eventually the paper will disintegrate and it can even mould if left for too long, but it's a great help for keeping acrylics from drying out during a painting session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-03-13T10:00:31.950" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T10:00:31.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11565" CreationDate="2023-03-13T11:19:15.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense to attempt this using acrylics, although it's originally done in oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does. The video is mostly theoretical to begin with, and breaks up painting a still life (and, as the creator keeps emphasizing, any subject) into very useful, basic steps: composition, rough outlining, simplifying shapes and using flat planes to quickly create an overall impression, direction of strokes, and the importance of values.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;These are all equally important for painting as well as drawing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Regarding your doubts (&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;perhaps this exercise was too hard for a complete beginner? Maybe I should have started with a simple sphere lit from one side [..]?&lt;/em&gt;): I don't believe it is too hard, and I think your main problem was just that the colour mixing didn't work out for you (which I believe is at least for a great part a technical problem—see below). A sphere is actually really hard to paint, as you need a lot of smooth transitions, and a very exact positioning of the reflections and shadows for it to look right. It would still be a great exercise, though, but I think one you should first attempt in charcoal or pencil (the first being more painterly and intuitive to work with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you go about mixing the various colours for the apples (using acrylics)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More so than oils, cheap/student-grade acrylic paints can be hard to mix properly, because they are chromatically not very pure. Some contain a lot of filler (and/or opacifiers and/or dyes), making them mix poorly with each other, as well as with other acrylic paints with less filler, as the ratios we assume would work won't. It also desaturates colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest getting a large range of student-grade colours, or invest in higher quality acrylic paints (preferably without &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; filler).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In the first scenario, you look for colours that most resemble the target colours, and mix in less additional colours to adjust them. In the second scenario, mixing should be a lot more straightforward and intuitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be able to make [the colours below] by making only some of them first, and then branch out by inter-mixing or dulling/lightening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CxQl0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CxQl0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you would.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I see three basic hues here: a pink, a green, and a grey. The first two can be seen in the middle of the top row; the purest grey is the first colour depicted.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The browns can be mixed using these three hues, but you might want to use a dark brown to darken the other hues, and a white to do the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the advised blocking method, I had to mix first a dark green and a light yellow-green.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;That however resulted in the former being more a dull olive green, and the latter a much more vibrant and too light green.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;From there it was all very challenging to lighten and darken the colours to make the 'in-between' shades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always make sure the first, basic colours you mix are right; don't try to fix muddy colours by bringing in other colours, as this will only make them muddier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make things worse, the paint, being acrylic, started filming and drying on the palette, so I could not inter-mix, ended up making some more greens and getting even more 'off' hues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the method Elmy describes in her answer, the &amp;quot;wet palette&amp;quot;, you can use a retarder to slow down the drying while working, or put plastic film over your palette in-between sessions. You can also place it in the fridge to slow the process down even more (keeping the acrylic paint fresh for months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your (incisive) colour wheel experimentation conclusion is spot on: within the separate objects depicted, only the value really changes. By dragging the small circle within the triangle to the lower right corner, you find the pure value you should use for painting these objects.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For the apple, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/53muP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/53muP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Nitpicking here, but do note that the reference image used is based on a photo in a video: that's two steps removed from the actual real-life subject, which, naturally, has a lot more colour depth and richness to it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also find it useful to know that almost every material, no matter how matte and/or dark, reflects adjacent colours. I find realizing this, and seeing this in the world around me, really helps me depict objects in the same space. The apple reflects the surface it rests on, so for painting that part of the reflection, you'll need to mix in a little of the basic colour of that surface (the pink). This will immediately 'ground' the apple within the picture space.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(The effect of lighting is actually the exact same process, but since a light source is usually very bright, we tend to think of it as a 'whitening' of the colour, whereas, in fact, it is reflection of the same kind.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-03-13T11:19:15.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11574" CreationDate="2023-03-14T21:05:16.073" Score="7" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have these rods with rounded ends, originally from a light fixture, with a full golden color of medium brightness and shine. I'd like to use those ends, and perhaps file more semispheres from the material. However, sanding one (to remove circular manufacturing traces), the cleaned material is not only quite light but hardly yellow, almost silvery with just a tinge of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want is to make it golden again, but not too dark nor dull, though high shine isn't necessary, nor matching the original finish. And while there's the option of finding another alloy, I want to learn about this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I simply let the piece lie around, but this particular stuff hadn't darkened after a few days. (That was in cold, dry weather; current mild conditions actually do the trick. So I'm satisfied, but I let the question stand.) So I put it in water (really the last puddle from a bottle of ozone/oxygen disinfectant which had been standing around for months and smelled no more), thinking that would speed oxidation; yet the result of watering was still light and also actually coppery, shown in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2MMA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2MMA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A metal rod with original golden body and a tip turned coppery&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This photo doesn't bring out the lightness difference that well. Think of the tip as two notches lighter rather than one; and that was also so before the reddening.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I went to read up on aging brass, thinking that was the material. I don't want to use strong chemicals or buy anything, so the options seemed to be salt sludge, vinegar solution (possibly salted), and coffee or coffee grounds. Yet all those articles aim at a pronounced patina, whereas I just want back a saturated golden hue like the original finish has, though the precise color doen't matter. Hence I'm wondering what to use and how to control the effect, also in relation to the times I'm at the workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I get my gold back? That is, which agent do you recommend,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and how far to dilute it so that appreciable action will take &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; up to 3 or 4 hours, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; at least 21 hours?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People indicated in comments that the metal might be pot metal or else low-copper brass because it's so bright and doesn't catch fingerprints, neither on the show surface nor nakedly. Density is around 8.6 g/cm&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;. It feels slippery under saw and file but is tougher than typical brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below's a bulk color comparison after two or three weeks of cold, dry air exposure vs. newly sanded. It had darkened pretty nicely. Note that the bright one isn't quite silver and the copper red shown above is unmistakable I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hm9Xp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hm9Xp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sanded&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Sanded&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EFgX1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EFgX1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;air exposed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Air exposed&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, the application is giving this friendly fellow eyes, golden orbs (with slit pupils of course) on painted wood.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W29Y4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W29Y4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chinese dragon head sketch&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt; My most elaborate, and prettiest, piece is finally done, after letting it lie a few times out of fear of botching what I had ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PYfCW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PYfCW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;finished dragon before a sky, jewel heaps on clouds&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16648" LastEditorUserId="16648" LastEditDate="2023-12-19T13:31:34.867" LastActivityDate="2023-12-19T13:31:34.867" Title="How to darken this light-golden metal" Tags="|metal|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="588" CreationDate="2023-03-14T21:14:40.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon pencils are made of clay and lamp black (sometimes mixed with graphite or charcoal, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pencil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their darks are indeed much deeper and more matte, and they blend and smudge well. However, they are hard to erase. I think this is why they aren't as popular a medium as the more lenient graphite and charcoal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a quick test I made to show some of the similarities and differences between the three mentioned pencil types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jO2M0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jO2M0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(From top to bottom: 2B carbon pencil, 2H carbon pencil, 2B graphite pencil, willow charcoal.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;From left to right: tortillon smudge, finger smudge, kneaded eraser.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Used paper: Daler Rowney Drawing Paper, 160g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Click image for larger version.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it's mostly the erased part that differs dramatically: the carbon has only slightly faded, whereas the graphite and charcoal are a lot lighter.  This is the major drawback of using carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precise lines can be achieved with carbon pencils.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You might have to sharpen the carbon pencils a little more often than regular graphite pencils to maintain a similar precision, but it's not that different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T21:14:40.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11571" CreationDate="2023-03-15T18:19:49.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll get some ideas started. Some thoughts (updated):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It isn't really clear what the rod composition is. The gold color on the surface appears to be different from the metal comprising the rod (not just oxidation of the rod material). It looks and behaves like brass or bronze plating, rather than something like a lacquer coating. The implication is that you couldn't restore the same gold color on the dome by letting the metal oxidize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was brass plating, I'd expect it to be covered with dark, oxidized fingerprints from handling. It could also be something like titanium nitride, which has a gold color and is often used to coat things like drill bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rod is a silvery metal that isn't soft, darkens a little with oxidation, and it looks like the oxidation takes on a bit of a coppery tint. It isn't steel (non-magnetic). It probably isn't aluminum (which can be anodized with a lot of colors, but it's soft, oxidizes quickly to a grey color, and you would have noticed the light weight). The density estimate also pretty well rules it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's even possible that the dome and the rod are different metals. The rod could be made as tubing and the dome attached to the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question has been updated and talks about the exposed metal darkening and taking on a gold color. I'm not aware of anything that tarnishes as a gold color. So that's great if it will restore itself, but hold off on the champagne until the color matches the rod surface. If it doesn't get there, I'll leave the information in this answer to provide some options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Estimating the density looks like the effort was too crude for that to be helpful. An estimated density of 8.6 g/cc is in the ballpark of what some of the likely metals would be. If you think it's actually very close to that number, it would rule out something mostly tin. Mostly zinc might still be within the margin or error. But it sounds like the weight estimate is not reliable, or precise enough to differentiate the composition in a way that would be useful. In case you're able to refine the estimate, here's a table of metal densities for comparison: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.theworldmaterial.com/density-of-metals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Density of Metals&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be an alloy, but for this application, it would probably be something variable and nondescript (pot metal), rather than a specific alloy with targeted properties. It might be mostly zinc or tin, although those are soft metals. As Chris H suggested in a comment, it could be low-copper brass. The presence of a little copper might explain the coppery colored oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The type of metal makes  a difference in several ways. Plating will stick to some metals better than others. You often need to plate a piece with a layer of one metal and then plate that with the finish metal. You could always just try to plate it directly with brass and see what happens. If Chris H is right about it potentially being low-copper brass, brass plating ought to stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is at least one method that involves heat, and the melting temperature comes into play. For example, tin melts at 232°C (you could melt it in a toaster oven), zinc at 420°C, and most of the other metals it could be (or that are likely to be alloyed in), melt at much higher temperatures. If you have a small butane or propane torch, you could heat one of the cut ends, or shave off some small pieces and heat them, to see if melting starts at a relatively low temperature. If you happen to have an infrared thermometer, you could measure it and get an idea of the likely predominant metal. Here's a table of melting points: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.americanelements.com/meltingpoint.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Melting Point of Metals &amp;amp; Alloys&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I probably wouldn't put more effort into identifying the metal. If the color doesn't restore itself through oxidation, I'd just focus on picking a solution that will give you the appearance you want and that you're in a position to try. If you don't like the result, remove it and try a different method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how to restore the gold color to the dome? Since we don't know what the finish on the rods is, the resulting color on the dome isn't likely to exactly match the rest of the rod. If that's important, you might want to refinish the entire rod (or both if they will be used together). If an exact match isn't important, consider the fast and easy solution of a brass or polished bronze spray lacquer. The small area might not be that noticeable and a little overspray will help it blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the look of a bare yellow metal (no glossy lacquer), there are a few ways to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gild it&lt;/strong&gt; using an imitation gold leaf, which is usually a brass alloy and the color may be reasonably close. Gilding a curved surface is hard. You would need to do it as a collection of small areas, and could end up with some tiny gaps that are difficult to fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brass or bronze powder:&lt;/strong&gt; This technique involves applying something to the metal that dries a little tacky, at least to fine powders. Then the surface gets dusted with the metal (pigment-sized powder) and burnished, which leaves it looking like polished metal. It's surprisingly durable. A variation on the theme is systems used for fingernail decoration. Those use a UV resin dusted with a metallic-looking powder (not sure if it is even metal, but it looks realistic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electroplating:&lt;/strong&gt; You can electroplate brass at home with readily available supplies, and no dangerous chemicals. There are a number of variations on how to do it (search &amp;quot;brass plating at home&amp;quot;). Here's a video to give you an idea of what's involved: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIz58GGCbk8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Electroplate Copper and Brass at Home&lt;/a&gt; (it covers both brass and copper plating, done with essentially the same method).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some metals, there's a way to plate without a solution bath and power source. You basically rub a paste on the item. I've never explored whether that's available for brass, but it might be worth checking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat plating:&lt;/strong&gt; I just came across this option. It involves getting the item pretty hot (demonstrated with a steel item), then you brush it with a brass brush and the item picks up some of the brass. Here's a video of the technique: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmxpQC6zYV4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brass Plating at Home - Brass Brushing&lt;/a&gt;. I don't know whether both the brass and the item require the high temperature to transfer the metal (with steel, you heat it to 600°C, which is well below brass's melting point of about 930°C). So, for example, whether you could get a lower melting point metal hot but below its melting point, and it would pick up some brass with this method. But this is a simple, cheap method to try (just be careful not to get the dome hot enough to melt, and if it is made of a soft metal, the brass brush could scratch it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="8251" LastEditDate="2023-03-16T21:58:39.387" LastActivityDate="2023-03-16T21:58:39.387" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11514" CreationDate="2023-03-15T21:59:15.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an &amp;quot;ideal&amp;quot; width-to-height ratio for speech bubbles in English language comics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really. Alternatively: the ideal ratio is relative to the context and contents of each individual bubble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few general guidelines apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The main thing to always keep in mind: &lt;strong&gt;the text should flow&lt;/strong&gt;, no matter how experimental your layout is. I see this done 'wrong' at times, and it is confusing and breaks the immersion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Secondly: apart from that first rule, &lt;strong&gt;a text balloon's size and ratio are subordinate to the contents of the panel&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; it should not cover vital information. This means that, at times, a balloon can have unusual shapes, or is disposed of altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not all speech bubbles should have the same aspect ratio. If they do, a page becomes static and visually boring. Each bubble ideally represents the tone an character of what is said, and/or who by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bubbles should contain sufficient space. This means that no matter how much or how little text they contain, a specific (and often similar) border will be surrounding that text within the balloon, and, as this will likely be equal on all four sides while vertically the size is variable, a preset ratio is even theoretically impossible. That is, unless you mess around with the width and height of your fonts, but this will probably only annoy your readers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catering to a western audience, you'll preferably have bubbles that &lt;strong&gt;are wider than they are tall&lt;/strong&gt; (as seems to be the consensus among us answerers :), as this is congruent with our usual and therefore favoured way of reading.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;To emphasize this flow, especially with longer sentences or paragraphs, a ratio that is similar to that of a typical paragraph in a textbook could be preferred, but this is purely theoretical.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Nevertheless, going through comic book examples, you will see this is the norm. Even in generally vertical balloons, the text still needs to be read from left to right, and &lt;strong&gt;breaking up sentences into single words just makes reading a little more jarring&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few relevant quotes from Gary Spencer Millidge's &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.millidge.com/product/comic-book-design/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comic Book Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, standard ellipse shapes can waste space, covering too much of the artwork and also proving an uncomfortable fit for the arrangement of text. Because of this, it is not unusual to see slightly &amp;quot;flattened&amp;quot; ellipses, irregularly hand drawn shapes, rectangles, and other variations of speech balloons used with success. [p. 102]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly how much space to leave between the lettering and the edges of the balloons is a matter of judgment. Too little can make the balloons appear crowded and difficult to read; too much can distract from the artwork, or cover up too much of the panel. [p. 102]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caption boxes that contain narrative text or character &amp;quot;voiceovers&amp;quot; are generally rectangular in shape. Because they are not directly associated with any particular object within the panel, they can be placed more freely, so long as they contribute to the overall composition and reader flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to incorporate the golden ratio, a better place for that would be the panels themselves, as the length of text in speech bubbles varies way too much.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As you can see in the image below, this standard division using the golden rectangle already provides a nice layout for a page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iljn9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iljn9m.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://kiwihellenist.blogspot.com/2019/02/golden-ratio.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are only really four variations to this, and it offers yet another approach that is probably way too formulaic to keep your comic interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;* Unless, of course, the text (/sound) actually obscures important information, like someone talking so much it makes focusing impossible for a character, or a siren blaring over another text balloon. In that case, though, it can be argued the text balloon *is* more important.&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-08T17:06:31.743" LastActivityDate="2023-11-08T17:06:31.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11143" CreationDate="2023-03-16T12:04:58.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a brainstorming about getting the blackest black and the matte-est matte with what you already have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create charcoal dust, with grain sizes to your taste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go on with your painting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before the paint is cured, apply the charcoal dust over the desired surfaces. As much as possible, press the dust into the paint. If you want the dust to have &amp;quot;brush traces&amp;quot; use some brush with harder hairs (even a toothbrush might work) for the pressing. Be careful to not bring paint over the black dust. Clean the brush to avoid that - if you follow this method.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning, a good amount of dust will go away. You will need to be careful to to allow it to spread over other uncured areas of your painting. After the painting is cured, you might want to use a vacuum cleaner to remove loose dust. Maybe compressed air will do an even better job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this method, you will have the black on the top, with nothing to &amp;quot;eat&amp;quot; its matte properties. If you apply something over it, some glossyness will be unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2023-03-16T12:04:58.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-17T19:31:00.227" Score="4" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make some itty bitty wooden cubes, so I bought some crafting matchsticks and planned to cut them. However, when I cut them, they break up into strands of wood and become brittle. Any idea how I could reinforce them (like soak in in wood glue)? Or recommend a different material/brand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to cut them with a dremel tool. (: I want them to be close to 1/4 cm cubes and plan to paint them and glue them together to create pixel-esque designs, so making resin cubes is not a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16660" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-03-29T11:43:54.223" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T11:43:54.223" Title="How to keep Craft matchsticks from splitting while cutting?" Tags="|wood|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11577" CreationDate="2023-03-18T04:52:33.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used wood from popsicle sticks and wooden coffee stirrers for model making. Matchsticks might be more fragile, but what I used would be a starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual tool is a razor saw, like Chris H suggested, used in a tiny aluminum miter box. The saw I use is similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pv9fI.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pv9fI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08VRHNN5Q&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a very thin blade with very fine teeth that cut on pull. Very fine teeth will minimize tearing, so the wood will hold together better. The miter box looks like this, but mine is a different brand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhnUV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhnUV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CM12TLT&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My miter box is sized to use with razor saws (important so the blade doesn't drift around in the slot, and it will be in the slot for the length of the cutting stroke).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something as tiny as matchsticks, I would do them in batches. Make a block of aligned matchsticks. Gluing one end, like Chris H mentioned, will hold the block together (only the far end is glued to stabilize the pieces; as you cut the other end, you have loose cubes). The bottom of the miter box usually has some ridges, so you would want to line it with cardboard or something to level it for this. If you can, find a way to clamp the block in the miter box. These miter boxes usually have a lip so you can press it against the edge of the worktop to keep it stable while you cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't try to speed up the process with more pressure on the saw. It should make a clean cut with minimal loss of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a Dremel tool, a carbide blade wouldn't be the best for this. You can get circular saw-tooth disks. They come in different diameters and different teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMHNx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMHNx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HRT94RH&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones pictured are a little thick. I use ones that look like they're cut from thin sheet metal. They make a clean cut in small soft wood and don't remove much (couldn't find a picture).  A large diameter disk might have too much drag if your rotary tool doesn't have a strong motor. For something as small and fragile as matchsticks, use one with a lot of fine teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another type of disk that would work for this is resin cutting disks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhrfT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhrfT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000SMQS5G&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-03-18T04:52:33.663" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-18T16:49:26.483" Score="1" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I prepared a sticker in CorelDraw, and printed the design on vinyl self-adhesive stickers. The vinyl self-adhesive stickers are not durable.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Then I thought of laminating the vinyl sheet and then sticking it on the cricket bat. But the self-adhesive glue is not that strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know what kind of glue they use to make these kinds of stickers.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The glue they use is very strong and the stickers can be removed by applying heat without damaging the cricket bat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9703" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-03-29T11:42:31.633" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T11:42:31.633" Title="How are cricket bat stickers made, and what glue is used for them?" Tags="|adhesives|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11582" CreationDate="2023-03-19T17:28:44.667" Score="5" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use hollow-backed stampings (about 2&amp;quot; x 3/4&amp;quot;) on a necklace but they are too lightweight.  Are there any ideas, besides resin and polymer clay, for filling in the backs to make them more substantial?  Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are images -- the depth is less than 1/4&amp;quot; -- thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvQsK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KvQsK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eeY9r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eeY9r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7iyf0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7iyf0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16666" LastEditorUserId="16666" LastEditDate="2023-03-19T20:29:17.213" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T23:12:14.033" Title="How to fill hollow back brass stampings to add weight for pendant use?" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11579" CreationDate="2023-03-19T17:48:24.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question made me curious, so I contacted a large cricket sticker manufacturer (Stickmore Design &amp;amp; Printing, an Australian company; probably named after the founder, Mr. Stickmore, since surely, no company would base their name on such a groaner pun). I asked about the type of glue they use, and what they considered the useful life in normal use. This was the reply (I'll exclude the contact information since this is a public forum):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi Dolly,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All our stickers are digitally printed and created using self-adhesive polymeric vinyl.  We use two types: white high tack and clear pressure-sensitive vinyls; depending on the job.  The printing machine uses eco solvent inks and we finish the job with an overlaminate for additional protection which includes UV protection.  The stickers are also contour cut by us into any shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of life, this is always difficult to predict and I don’t know anyone that would like to put a number on it but, hopefully, I can give you some idea that might help.  We have been supplying stickers to bat makers since 2017 and the feedback is that the stickers should last the useful life of a bat.  Having said that, the bat must be cared for and a bat cover is highly recommended to prevent the stickers from being scratched by rubbing against items in a cricket bag e.g. spikes and zips.  I, myself, use a bat for a couple of years before doing a full refurbishment and this includes a change of stickers (only because I can ).  I also know of a senior male cricketer who is using the same bat for 4 years with the same stickers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this response is helpful but please let me know if you have any further questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind regards,&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Ed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like they don't know what type of glue it is. They buy two types of self-adhesive vinyl stock from a supplier, &amp;quot;white high tack&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;clear pressure-sensitive&amp;quot; (I'm guessing less-than-high tack). Whatever the adhesive is, it works for them, so it doesn't matter, and they don't care about the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could find suppliers of self-adhesive vinyl stock and ask them, but you wouldn't know if their product is what's used for cricket bat stickers. Even if you ask about vinyl suitable for cricket bat stickers, you won't know if it's the same glue or how good it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever it is, it's applied at the vinyl factory, probably with a process you couldn't, or wouldn't want to, duplicate at home. The glue is also probably an industrial product sold in large drums for a manufacturing setting. The same glue may not be available in a small retail package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this doesn't answer your question, but at least it prunes the tree you would need to explore. There are glues that will stick vinyl to wood that you could apply, but you would need to start with non-adhesive vinyl. If you apply your glue over pre-applied glue, the sticker is still held on by the lousy glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-03-19T17:48:24.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11580" CreationDate="2023-03-19T20:06:32.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brass accepts &amp;quot;ordinary&amp;quot; solder with minimal difficulty. One could apply heat to the stamping and use electrical soldering wire to increase the weight. Electrical solder is preferred as it contains a non-acidic flux which can be washed away with alcohol, while plumbing solder may have acid or none at all for flux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an electrical soldering iron will minimize the cosmetic effect of the heat on the front surface as well as allow for more precise control of the application of solder. With the right technique, you can layer the solder in a gradual manner rather than load it heavily in any specific area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solder will also increase the durability and reduce the flexibility of the brass material, if that is a consideration of value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-03-19T20:06:32.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11580" CreationDate="2023-03-20T23:12:14.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like fred_dot_u's solution. An additional thought. The pictures look like the front might have a lacquer finish. If so, the heat from soldering might affect it. In that case, you could need to strip the front, polish, and recoat it. It isn't a big deal on something that size, but it would probably remove the patina and leave a polished brass look (although you could restore the patina). Just something to be prepared for if that would make a difference. You could solder the smaller piece first to see how it goes, and have a smaller job if it does create remedial work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the front does have a lacquer coating, and you don't want to risk changing the appearance, there's another way to fill the back and add some weight. Get or make fine powder of a heavyish metal (you can use a Dremel tool to grind a scrap piece of steel, copper, or brass), or very fine sand, and build up layers of the powder that you saturate with superglue. If you premix a small amount of baking soda with the powder, the layers will harden quicker. Do it in a well-ventilated place because it produces a lot of fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to deal with the fumes or don't have a lot of superglue on-hand, mix the powder with a little glue that will stick to metal to create a clay, and press it into the back to fill it. There's a lot of surface to bind to. Something that thick will take a long time to dry, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-03-20T23:12:14.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2023-03-23T01:35:58.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should wash the mold in hot water to vulcanize it a bit and then dry it with a heat gun or hair dryer on the inside, very carefully.  After that, if you have a tube of Silpoxy for mold repairs, take a brush or use your finger if you don't mind peeling off goo and apply 2 layers sort of like greasing the mold with vaseline, but make certain to apply thinly and gently so you keep detail.  You might have to go to a third coat. As it dries you might notice it seems to release water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you want to try the limonene method of cure without spending 20 bucks, get a bottle of rubbing alcohol and a couple of oranges.  Peel the top thin layer off the oranges with a peeler and put thin orange peels in alcohol in an old glass jar, use peels of 2 oranges and 1 cup alcohol and put it in a place that is warm. It will smell very orangey in a few days, and you can use it to try that method without spending a fortune.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet paper towels with the orange alcohol and pack the inside of the mold. Check it and rinse it out in a few days. The decoction also works using vodka and at least you will have the orange form of limoncello to drink if you make enough-some to soak the mold and some to drink.  Don't drink what you used on the bad mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16687" LastEditorUserId="16545" LastEditDate="2023-03-25T09:51:41.050" LastActivityDate="2023-03-25T09:51:41.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2715" CreationDate="2023-03-23T20:17:04.373" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;lapidary hand saws. basically hack saws with diamond coated blades. do keep it wet when cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16690" LastActivityDate="2023-03-23T20:17:04.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11577" CreationDate="2023-03-24T11:13:24.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a lot of this type of material for making dolls house style furniture and accessories. What I tend to do is to soak the wood in warm water, and then I split it along the grain using a regular craft knife with a good quality stainless steel blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the wood is damp it brings out the grain which makes it much easier to add texture to by dry brushing, and it makes the wood more likely to split than to splinter as it is soggy. You just need to score the wood and then apply firm pressure to it along the line of the grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to cut across the grain, try a hand held miter cutter on dry wood. It's easier to apply more pressure than you can from a craft knife, and it's more precise than a rotary cutting tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2023-03-25T07:56:41.753" LastActivityDate="2023-03-25T07:56:41.753" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11591" CreationDate="2023-03-26T18:06:39.430" Score="15" ViewCount="3021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to build a small round tabletop pond (radius 15 cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to put a small rubber duck inside, and I want it to &amp;quot;swim&amp;quot; constantly, preferably moving randomly in the pond (as opposed to a fixed swimming path, like in circle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a good way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea I had is having 2 small pumps in strategic points on the circle (in the bottom of the pond), so that they create water circulation. But I don't really know how to place them. I'm also concerned that the water surface would be too bubbly because of that, so not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any direction. It doesn't have to include pumps or any electric device, so please suggest anything you find suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2149" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-03-29T11:43:12.603" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T11:43:12.603" Title="Making a rubber duck swim in a tabletop pond" Tags="|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11589" CreationDate="2023-03-27T09:30:25.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use only one pump, split the exit into two. Somehow, the two resulting exists will be able to move inside the pond, at least left / right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you might want to try to enable the duck to be able to change the position of the water exits (i.e., the exists are long enough for the duck to hit them occasionally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: changing the relative position of the water exists from the pump will change the movement pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to install some elements on the two water exists, to adjust the pressure - different pressures, different reactions of the duck when in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making the pressure adjusting elements to change automatically while in operation for extra randomization will not be possible to be done easily, as far as I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus info: water pumps for aquariums tend to be more silent than other pumps. And usually you can find tubes and splitters also, where you find the pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional gear: you might want to install a tiny motor inside the duck, connected to a propeller installed outside the duck. If you are technically inclined, you install the propeller in a tube inside the duck, so the propeller would not be visible outside. This propeller will add extra randomness combined with the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For supplying electricity to the motor inside the duck, you can use some photo-element, and a small lamp above the setup. If the lamp changes colors / intensity (in a pattern, or randomly), the duck's movement will become even more random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have in mind the kind of motors that provide vibration to mobile phones, or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another bonus: if you do not mind the extra sound and splashes, use air pumps (aquarium pumps should be fine) to create movement in the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2023-03-27T09:35:29.297" LastActivityDate="2023-03-27T09:35:29.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11589" CreationDate="2023-03-27T10:30:01.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've run a lab experiment (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.raspberrypi.com/news/photocatalysis-raspberry-pi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article in MagPi, the Rapsberry Pi magazine&lt;/a&gt;) in the past that had some rather neat rotation in the reaction vessel.  We did this with angled hose fittings, one inlet and one outlet, and a small pump.  The angle is important to get good rotary flow, i.e. the hose fittings should be as close as possible to tangential to the round tank. We used a &lt;a href=&quot;https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/water-pumps/7026882&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;miniature water pump&lt;/a&gt; run at the lowest voltage that it worked at reliably (5V on a nominally 12V pump), and the pump introduced no bubbles.  I tried some cheap pumps from eBay.  They were fine to start with but not robust enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows what happened when we added dye (methylene blue) to the system.  The water is flowing in at the top of the image, out at the bottom.  The flow isn't much, but it gets a good rotary motion going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1Hjh.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1Hjh.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beaker is about 7cm/3&amp;quot; in diameter here. Note the bubbles come from squirting in the dye with a syringe from out of shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To upgrade this for your use I have a few ideas, which may be comined, and coudl easily be controlled with some simple electronics of a Raspberry Pi or Arduino:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the pump intermittently at random&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run it off different voltages to get fast/slow movement.  In our case we had to run really hard to get bubbles, unless there was a slight leak admitting air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a reversible pump, and reverse it (ours wasn't reversible, some of the cheap ones are - I've just looked on AliExpress).  Reversing the flow wont give a mirror image of the movement on the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have one outlet, multiple inlets, multiple pumps (or valves), with T pieces as required for the hose.  In this case you'd probably want one tangential inlet, and one radial, so you could, for example, start it swimming round in circles, switch inlets, then it would dart across to the other side.  A tangential inlet in the opposite direction could also be good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An inlet in the base might give some interesting effects if run briefly (even better if you can detect when the duck is over the inlet and turn it on, which could be done with a camera and OpenCV)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't fabricate the connections like this, you can try sealing the hose straight through the wall and finishing with a 90° elbow to get the tangential motion.  You can even run the hose in from above with an elbow.  Depending on any decoration you have around the pond, it might be possible to conceal this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to experiment with the water depth, so put the inlets high enough that the duck will float if they're at the surface, but low enough that you can raise the water above them by a few cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your pond is square, you'll get a less circular flow, and there's a risk it will get stuck in the corners.  But you can get a tangential flow more easily as that's square to the walls.  Using 3 T pieces to inject flow at all 4 corners should ensure it keeps&#xA;going in the same direction, probably sucking the water from the middle of the base if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your 6:1 pond:duck ratio is the minimum worth going for; 10:1 would be better I think.  You might also get good effects with multiple ducks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of plumbing ideas, to combine, modify etc..&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaYSS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaYSS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Pumps marked * would be good to have reversible, with appropriate drive electronics.  Arrows indicate the direction of flow at in-/outlets that I think should be better if you can't reverse the pumps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2023-03-28T10:42:25.983" LastActivityDate="2023-03-28T10:42:25.983" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11589" CreationDate="2023-03-27T11:29:34.190" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This honestly started as a fun idea, but it might actually work to integrate a magnetic stirrer into the pond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bola.de/media/image/5f/33/5f/Magnetisches-Ruehren-1-Englisch.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.bola.de/media/image/5f/33/5f/Magnetisches-Ruehren-1-Englisch.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;magentic stirrer&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bola.de/en/technical-information/stirring-and-mixing/stirrer-magnetic-stirring/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magnetic stirrers are usually used in a lab to (you guessed it) stir liquids. What's special about them is that the mechanism that does the stirring isn't in contact with the liquid that's being stirred. So even if your pond runs completely dry, the stirring mechanism won't take any damage. The disadvantages are that the stirrer itself adds height to the pond and you need to put a magnetic stir stick in your pond, which might not be visually appealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a lab, you usually want to stir things quickly and thoroughly, so even the lowest setting of most stirrers is quite quick. If you don't want a vortex in your duck pond, you'll probably need to look for a low speed stirrer (I saw one with 5 rpm online, which is 1 revolution every 12 seconds) or an analog one. If a lab stirrer doesn't work for you, &lt;em&gt;any tool&lt;/em&gt; that can rotate a magnet beneath the pond will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would tether the rubber duck to the stir stick in the pond to keep it a constant distance from the very edge. Then it should start floating in circles when you activate the stirrer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-03-27T11:29:34.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11589" CreationDate="2023-03-27T23:07:30.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question describes wanting random motion rather than a fixed path. Here's an idea to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of circulating the water around the pond, use a small pump to pump water straight up from the bottom on opposite sides of the circumference of the pond, with very little force (call that 12:00 and 6:00). From each pump outlet, the water will reach the surface and spread out in all directions. The &amp;quot;fan&amp;quot; shaped flows will meet in the middle, and the water will flow toward the sides, perpendicular to the line that the water outlets are on (call that 3:00 and 9:00).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything floating in the water will move in some random direction away from the 12:00 or 6:00 water discharge. Momentum will carry it a little into the flow from the other side, and it will be pushed in another direction. Eventually, it will be herded by the water flows toward the circumference on one side or the other (3:00 or 9:00).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 3:00 and 9:00, hide a magnet below the surface (possibly in some scenery). Put a magnet on the bottom of the duck, with the same pole interacting on all three magnets, so the duck is repelled on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the duck is herded toward one of the magnets, it will be deflected in the general direction of one of the pump outlets, and will have enough momentum to be carried a little bit &amp;quot;upstream&amp;quot;, where the cycle will be repeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of action might stabilize into a simple loop, where the duck gets deflected by the magnet, and the flows return it to the same point, so the motion repeats. That can be avoided by combining this with the magnetic stirrer idea in Elmy's answer, with the duck's magnet being the only free magnet inside the pond. The stirrer will give the duck a periodic kick that will alter its path. Adjust the water level so that the stirrer attraction on the duck's magnet is weak (so it influences the duck, but the duck doesn't lock onto that magnet and become the stirrer; the water currents should be the main drivers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastEditorUserId="16545" LastEditDate="2023-03-28T15:14:36.570" LastActivityDate="2023-03-28T15:14:36.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11589" CreationDate="2023-03-28T08:38:36.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a sufficiently long and flexible hose, attaching a pump to it and putting it into the pool will result in the open end &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMxyy5NrZ-o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;snaking around in the water in a seemingly random motion&lt;/a&gt;. The resulting changes in the inlet water vectors will then propel the duck in similarly random ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10760" LastActivityDate="2023-03-28T08:38:36.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11597" CreationDate="2023-03-29T18:08:38.610" Score="4" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to make a clean rectangular hole in the top of a plexiglass box that looks like this. Normally I would go to laser-cutting but the fact that it's already in box form makes it hard with the depth of most laser beds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rtqyh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rtqyh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yB4YS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yB4YS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do y'all recommend? Hole can be hard or rounded edges, just need it to not look busted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T22:20:07.950" Title="How to Cut A Clean Rectangular Hole in a Plexiglass Box" Tags="|cutting|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11596" CreationDate="2023-03-29T22:20:07.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a rectangular hole, consider using a fairly small diameter drill bit, 3 mm diameter or smaller, one ideally designed for drilling acrylic. Too much pressure may crack the plastic, hence the reference to a plastic cutting drill. There have been posts suggesting a conventional drill run in reverse will work, as well as using a masonry bit (not in reverse). Smaller is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a template outlining your rectangle and drill the initial holes in the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One may be able to create suitable results from this point by using an oscillating tool with a fine tooth (high tooth count) cutting blade or an abrasive blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can also repeat the small hole drilling along the line of the template. Once enough holes are drilled, application of force will snap free the inner rectangle, leaving a series of protrusions which will have to be filed or sanded flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oscillating tool will be challenging to control compared to the drilling but will result in less post-processing overall if one can manage to properly direct the blade. Consider to apply multiple layers of masking tape outside the rectangle outline to protect the uncut area. If you have the material available, use metal strips to create the outline, providing much stronger protection and also a guide for the cutting blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the rectangle removed and the surface finish to your liking, you can play a butane torch or heat gun along the exposed edges to create a smoother surface. Use caution as overheating is easily accomplished as well as heat applied outside your desired area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-03-29T22:20:07.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-03-30T01:24:47.817" Score="4" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to figure this out for quite a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique is ancient, and has been used by artists as different as Caravaggio and Manet. Each highlight appears to have been done in a single stroke, and for whatever reason, it looks as if the brush had only four or five individual hairs half a millimeter apart: you can see the paint underneath in those gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How did they do that? What kind of brush? Or is it the paint? Or the oil medium?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/el2JD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/el2JD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGzwJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGzwJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Caravaggio, Fragment of &lt;em&gt;Supper at Emmaus&lt;/em&gt;, 1601&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Edouard Manet, Fragment of &lt;em&gt;Portrait of Berthe Morisot&lt;/em&gt;, 1872&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJY5V.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJY5V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U27Po.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U27Po.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;John Singer Sargent, &lt;em&gt;Mary Crowninshield Endicott Chamberlain (Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain)&lt;/em&gt;, 1902 ...&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;...and detail&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-04-03T11:03:13.863" LastActivityDate="2023-04-03T11:03:13.863" Title="In oil paintings, how do you paint transparent highlights?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|technique-identification|technique-application|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11598" CreationDate="2023-03-30T06:11:05.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Caravaggio might have painted the hair highlights separately, or used relatively small bristle brushes to paint a few separate hairs simultaneously. In his time, these details were usually added after the bulk of the work was done (the highlights in general were applied in the last stage).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It was still very common in the 17th century to 'draw' that much detail, especially so for surfaces that demanded that extra attention to create their 'material rendering'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a better idea of the technique used, here are a few more examples of hair highlights done by Caravaggio:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EqiI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EqiI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/the-musicians-caravaggio-michelangelo-merisi/JAFnUOPVHaNgxg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Musicians&lt;/a&gt; [detail], 1597&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r8v6j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r8v6j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/supper-at-emmaus-michelangelo-merisi-da-caravaggio/SAEXa9MdfikXZw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Supper at Emmaus&lt;/a&gt; [detail], 1601&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKtf6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKtf6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/saint-john-the-baptist-in-the-wilderness-michelangelo-merisi-called-caravaggio/qgFz_54y0Kfktw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saint John the Baptist in the Wilderness&lt;/a&gt; [detail], 1604/05&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially in the second example you can see how the hair is built up: there is a dark, warm ground or imprimatura serving as the main colour; to this, swift brushstrokes of a darker brown (burnt umber?) were added to give more shape to the hair; a lighter, blond colour (a yellow ochre with lead white?) is used to bring out locks of hair that catch the light.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;These last, lighter tones were painted with mixtures of pigments and oil of varying degrees of fluidity, but overall there is a distinction between complete locks of hair, and highlights on single hairs.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Here you can also see how some lighter locks have received individual highlights, painted separately (esp. directly to the right of the ear).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compare this with, for example, the following portrait by Albrecht Dürer from a century earlier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b8idN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b8idN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Albrecht Dürer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/portrait-of-a-young-venetian-woman-albrecht-d%C3%BCrer/4QHm8iCbgjn1Og&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Portrait of young Venetian woman&lt;/a&gt; [detail], 1505&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that, while the application of Caravaggio has become freer, the procedure is still very much alike: three loosely applied, lean, and possibly somewhat scuffed basic shades (of which one is likely a ground, imprimatura, or grisaille), over which individual strands were painted with a more opaque paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hair in the following portrait by Van Dyck, painted not a decade after the death of Caravaggio, shows a similar structure, but is applied in an even looser way, and—except for the highlights—completely wet-on-wet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfV95.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfV95.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Anthony van Dyck, &lt;a href=&quot;https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/saint-john-the-evangelist-anthony-van-dyck/PAF6RI-EW2NO6g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saint John the Evangelist&lt;/a&gt; [detail], 1618/20&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all these instances, it seems to me that the highlights were painted in an opaque paint with tiny brushes over a more loosely and thinly applied series of shades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that Manet was usually painting &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wet-on-wet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wet-on-wet&lt;/a&gt;. It was the preferred method of the realists and impressionists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general structure of painting, even here around the eye, is similar, though. You can see how the white of the lit side of the nose is of the same hue as that of the eye, and how these highlights around the eye lay on top of a very lightly applied dark brown, possibly part of the initial sketch, through which the texture of the canvas shows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HASCm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HASCm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the dark ground; a darker hue with which the eye's contour and the pupil were painted (possibly as part of the initial sketch); the intermediate greyish flesh tone (mixing in with the former darker brown along the top edge of the eye); a light flesh tone, with which the lit parts of the face are painted; and an even lighter and semi-translucent white with which the white of the eye is painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While scratching has been used to etch detail into the still wet paint (notably by Rembrandt), I don't believe these are scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the details pointed out in the paintings not being glazings (and having revised my answer after this was rightfully pointed out), &lt;strong&gt;I think the answer to your titular question is still nevertheless 'glazing'&lt;/strong&gt;: if transparent highlights are desired in oil painting, the only viable option &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; 'glazing', since that is the application of transparent layers on top of existing ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images that were added later to the question have (again) complicated the matter, but I think (the altogether different) brushstrokes like the central, vertical ones in this cropping below..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SlIvj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SlIvj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;John Singer Sargent, &lt;em&gt;Mary Crowninshield Endicott Chamberlain (Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain)&lt;/em&gt; [detail], 1902. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nga.gov/collection/art-object-page.45604.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..are simply quick brushstrokes with opaque paint, probably painted with a rougher bristle brush or a brush the artist knew would have this character and give these slightly separate lines, e.g. a dried out brush that Singer Sargent knew would give this texture.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The illusion of transparency is due to the textured way in which the paint is applied to the canvas—the brush likely having been handled in a grazing way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-04-03T10:56:39.237" LastActivityDate="2023-04-03T10:56:39.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11607" CreationDate="2023-03-30T17:45:14.120" Score="6" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &amp;quot;size&amp;quot; setting on the brother embroidery machine.  The software appears to be the same on most machines, but I'm using a PE800 specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I add a layer and change the size, I can shrink it only to a limit.  Then it will shrink no more.  The limit on smallness is very, very large... some demo items can only fit in the largest orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is there a limit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I get around it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it has something to do with the thickness of the paths?  Nothing about what I'm doing indicates there should be any reason it can not shrink further.  Other paths shrunk fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastEditorUserId="16730" LastEditDate="2023-04-04T20:53:37.340" LastActivityDate="2023-04-05T14:36:56.603" Title="What limits me from making a layer smaller on &quot;Brother&quot; embroidery machines?" Tags="|embroidery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-01T03:02:45.253" Score="6" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to follow along with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4E35-8x_y04&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bob Ross - Snow Fall (Season 1 Episode 12)&lt;/a&gt; and I am having difficulty with the mountain in the background. I am finding that unless I press really hard that I don't distribute any paint, but if I press sufficiently hard I am scraping the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4M8vX.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4M8vX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture below shows that the indent is deeper on the sides of the knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wanDh.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wanDh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below shows that there seems to be some curvature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kHBeZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kHBeZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be using this palette knife? Or should I get a straighter edge? Or am I using the knife incorrectly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15434" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-04-01T12:27:03.727" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T16:15:12.667" Title="Should a paint knife for wet-on-wet be bowed?" Tags="|painting|oil-paint|tool-usage|technique-application|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11602" CreationDate="2023-04-01T12:26:39.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two more factors are important here: the tautness of the canvas, and—especially—the angle of incidence. You can see how Ross is holding his knife at maybe a 20° angle here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uSlI8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uSlI8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mostly mentioning this because you make no remarks about these parameters, and for all I know that's not where your problems stem from. However, seeing the photos of the marks your knife leaves on the canvas, it looks like that could be the issue.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Have you tried using the convex side of the palette knife?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that Ross has quite a lot of paint on his knife, and that he doesn't scratch with it: he seems to use it like someone delicately putting a lot of butter on a sandwich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I myself have only used smaller, or, at least, narrower, palette knives. A short, rhombus-shaped one, which was very rigid, and good to use for making small scratches in the paint, or even just plucking hairs or other unwanted particles from the surface; and a very flexible, 7 cm long narrow one, which, while not being able to carry as much paint as the one you and Ross are using, would allow for similar applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T12:26:39.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11602" CreationDate="2023-04-01T16:15:12.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first impression was that your paint looks too watery (or rather &amp;quot;oily&amp;quot;) to be effectively distributed with a pallette knife (but I might be mistaken. It's hard to tell from your pictures). If you watch Bob Ross put paints on his pallette, most of them have a consistency like toothpaste and keep their shape when squeezed out of the tube. That makes it easier to pick up a sufficient amount on the knife and transfer it onto the canvas without denting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your paint is viscous enough, you should load your knife more often with a fresh batch of paint. Scrape the knife flat over the pallette to load off excess paint, then scrape it at a 80 - 90° angle over the paint to take up fresh paint. You can basically only do one major stroke before having to load the knive again because you can only use the very edge of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The curve in your knife &lt;em&gt;definitely doesn't make it better&lt;/em&gt;. Honestly, I would try straightening it out. With some luck, that could already solve your problem. If you have other pallette knives, maybe try them instead. In my experience the thin long ones are better at evenly distributing paint, but don't have the nice edge you want for a mountain top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/mT0RNrTDHkI?t=968&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this other Bob Ross video&lt;/a&gt; where he shows in very much detail how he mixes the paint for a mountain with the knife and how he picks up the paint with the knife. There's supposed to be a small roll of paint at the very edge of the knife. That's only possible if the paints have a firm consistency. At 6:00 minutes he shows that hes using &amp;quot;Bob Ross&amp;quot; brand paints and explains &lt;em&gt;several times&lt;/em&gt; how important it is that you use &amp;quot;firm and dry paints&amp;quot; for his technique. (I could neither open nor find the episode you referenced, so I cannot check if he explains the same details in it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-04-01T16:15:12.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11608" CreationDate="2023-04-02T00:20:56.643" Score="6" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a jacquard satchel. The fabric is very fine, don't know if it is silk or synthetic. Being black and silver, it is hard to photograph well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uHYNu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uHYNu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handles are heavy cord wrapped in the same fabric. The fabric is still intact, with no obvious holes or wear spots beyond the surface. But very fine threads are fraying all over the surface (not just from the seam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufQyd.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufQyd.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger threads are visible in the picture. There is also a fuzz of micro-threads that don't stand out in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to clean up the loose threads and do something to keep the handles from fraying more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can clip or &amp;quot;shave&amp;quot; the handles to remove the loose threads without unraveling anything. But how can I then protect them so they don't continue to fray?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to radically alter the appearance if possible. I considered some kind of clear coating on the handles, but don't know what would protect the fabric while still being comfortable to hold, and not change the fabric appearance. An additional consideration is that I have no sewing skills, so anything that involves disassembling the satchel would be beyond my abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-04-04T05:18:40.570" Title="How can I fix and protect fraying fabric handles?" Tags="|fabric|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11605" CreationDate="2023-04-03T10:56:22.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you cannot really protect the fabric itself easily / beautifully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have in mind only one option - to be done by someone with experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the handles (or at least one end of each);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull a protective tube over each handle;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reattach the handles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2 might involve creativity: what material to chose what color etc. If you want to maintain the original appearance of the bag, then have the protective tubes (sheaths) made form some good quality black material. But red or pink will match equally well, if you are so inclined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very creative alternative (more like an attempted hack, rather than a solution) is to trim the frays away, and then to &amp;quot;paint&amp;quot; the handles with some kind of flexible glue - in the idea of liquid rubber. However, I do not have the experience with it, and I cannot guarantee that it will save the bag - or maybe just destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A solution which does not require any special skills is to use a wider ribbon (color of your choice) and just wrap it around the handles. Worst case, you just make knots at the ends to fix it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The down side of this solution is that it might be quite short-lived, and therefore you might need to do it repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slight improvement will be to sew through the handles and the ribbon, just enough to not allow the ribbon to unwrap - and thus extending the life of the hack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastEditorUserId="6715" LastEditDate="2023-04-03T11:01:27.397" LastActivityDate="2023-04-03T11:01:27.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11600" CreationDate="2023-04-03T14:46:48.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The software on your machine is extremely basic, and therefore unable to do more than minor adjustments to the loaded pattern; the reason behind this is that your embroidery file isn't just a pattern to be filled in, but a pattern of every point where the needle enters the fabric, at what point and in what order. Simply resizing without re-rendering will either move the stitches closer together (scaling down), which could become much too tight on some patterns, or move them farther apart (scaling up), leaving much more of the background fabric exposed than intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The commonly recommended scaling&lt;/strong&gt; for patterns without re-rendering &lt;strong&gt;is no more than 10%&lt;/strong&gt;; at this level, the issues with stitch spacing are less visible and easier to ignore. Above this level, specialized software is needed to handle adding or removing stitches--and even then, you still may not get the desired result and may find better results by purchasing a different size (if available). I personally have had better luck with scaling down on patterns using more basic software, as it tends to be a bit better at removing stitches than inserting them, but have largely now turned to buying the size closest to what I want and sticking to very small adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://silverseams.com/2021/03/the-embroidery-resizing-problem/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This blog&lt;/a&gt; has some more detailed information on the perils of resizing, including some helpful graphics to illustrate the potential issues, as well as information on using specific software to help get around these issues (and why it might be tricky to do so with pre-rendered designs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With higher-end machines, the processing power is also increased, allowing these to do greater resizing steps, but even those still have their limits, similar to those of machines with lower memory and processing power. Some of the cautions from the manual for the Husqvarna Viking Designer Diamond machine include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;If the design is very detailed, some of it may be lost or distorted, and/or it can become very dense. Some designs should not be reduced more than 25% if they have too many details.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;If you are enlarging a design too much, you may see stitch irregularities.... Depending on the memory left in the machine, you may find some designs too complex to resize in the machine. Please use ... Embroidery Software to resize very large and complex designs.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Resizing a very larger or complex design may take a few minutes. Once you touch OK, you cannot cancel.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: Designer Diamond manual, page 7:8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this machine has the ability to select whether the pattern is re-rendered (and is able to do so onboard), the recommendations there are still to always re-render over 20%, with multiple cautions in the section about resizing using the onboarding software about the unpredictability and pitfalls of resizing a pattern. Even with this accessible, I still primarily opt to buy multiple sizes of a pattern to fit my needs better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2023-04-05T14:36:56.603" LastActivityDate="2023-04-05T14:36:56.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11605" CreationDate="2023-04-04T05:18:40.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution I can come up with involves some hand-sewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are so-called &amp;quot;bias tapes&amp;quot; available in almost all shops that sell fabric or sewing supplies. They usually come in in different materials and widths and usually the sides are folded in towards the center when you buy them. Most importantly, the threads run diagonally through the tape (aka &amp;quot;on the bias&amp;quot;), which makes the tape slightly stretchy and mold itself to curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UPN8q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UPN8q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would get some single fold bias tape in a shiny black or silver that fits the bag. Chose a width that can wrap around the handles with the sides still folded inwards. If the tape is slightly too narrow, get more than the length of both handles because it can stretch around, but becomes shorter by doing so. If it's slightly too wide, you can stretch it lengthwise, which makes it narrower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then simply sew the tape over the existing handles. Fold about 1 cm / 0.5 inch of the tape over so the edge is neat and doesn't have any exposed threads. Take a (preferably long and thin) hand sewing needle and some (preferably synthetic) thread. Start at one end of a handle and stitch a few times through the same spot of the handle to anchor the thread. Then fold the bias tape around the handle with both sides being folded inwards and sew the edges of the folds together. At the other end of the handle, stitch a few times through the handle to anchor the tape again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably take a while, but in my experience this can be done while watching TV or similar entertainment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-04-04T05:18:40.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-05T09:55:59.743" Score="3" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to paint (or otherwise colour) the silicone cover on a continuous LED strip?  If so, are there specific paints to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am running an LED strip along a wooden lamp I am making.  The strip is a COB (Chip on Board), continous LED only 4mm wide and &amp;lt;2mm thick (as shown below). The LED strip will be run in a small channel/rebate so the top is flush with the surface of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LED strip is a yellow colour that contrasts badly with the wood.  When the light is off it will look ugly, so I'd like to hide it. I have experimented putting the LED strip behind a diffuser, however any diffuser that sufficiently hides the yellow colour of the strip also blocks too much light.  So, my next thought is to try to colour the strip in some way, perhaps using an airbrush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of the LED strip set into a rebate in a piece of ash.  This represents its position in the final piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/37tU8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/37tU8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4mm Continuous LED strip partially set into rebate in a piece of ash&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16750" LastEditorUserId="16750" LastEditDate="2023-04-06T14:06:49.357" LastActivityDate="2023-04-18T00:10:22.487" Title="Can I paint the silicone cover on an LED strip?" Tags="|paint|airbrush|lighting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11609" CreationDate="2023-04-05T20:35:35.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are contending with multiple issues--coating silicone and color/brightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As fred_dot_u mentioned in a comment, silicone is one of the few things that will stick to silicone. If the surface of the LED strips will be exposed to handling, you could tint clear silicone and apply it. You also might get tints designed for faux stained glass to &amp;quot;stick&amp;quot; in the sense that it doesn't bead up before it dries and doesn't fall off as long as it isn't disturbed. But you would need to protect it with something clear and semi-rigid, like plastic or glass, because it would rub off if handled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that aspect is doable, although a colored diffuser might be a better solution (even if it isn't a good one, it might still be better, and more practical, than trying to color the LED surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two problems with color. Assuming the wood is some form of brown, you get to brown from yellow by mixing it with black. So putting something like a smoke-colored (gray) diffuser over the yellow LEDs should get you closer to something wood-color. It doesn't take much black, so the diffuser may not need to be very dark. But as you found, you will lose some of the light in the process. How much light you lose depends on how much tint there is; how much you need to modify the yellow to a color you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem with color is that the colors are complementary depending on whether the LED is on or off. When it is off, you're dealing with subtractive color, and both the wood and LEDs are illuminated by broad spectrum light. So colors can absorb the part of the spectrum you don't want and leave a color you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the LEDs are on, you're dealing with additive color. You can't start with yellow light and add other colors to it to make brown. You can only remove components of the yellow light. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://colorcodes.io/brown/wood-brown-color-codes-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;color codes page&lt;/a&gt; gives some typical RGB combinations for wood browns. The LED yellow light is a combination of red and green in nearly equal amounts. You could filter out some of the green to get the red-green balance closer to what's in brown. But brown requires some blue light that is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gray filter that corrects for subtractive color just makes the yellow not as bright when the LED is on. Any color correction you make for when the LED is on will do unwanted things to the color when the LED is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-04-05T20:35:35.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-06T09:02:01.197" Score="1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;This leather bag got caught in a heavy shower, and got drenched with water. After it dried up, the texture changed. You can see the damage on the bottom left side. It's wrinkly, and the granular texture is different (it has larger grains).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hpq2E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hpq2E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to restore it as best as possible? I already applied leather conditioner, but it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16738" LastActivityDate="2023-04-06T09:29:19.460" Title="How to restore leather texture after water damage" Tags="|restoration|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11611" CreationDate="2023-04-06T09:29:19.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an answer per se, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some stretching / pressing might help, but I am reluctant. Some kind of oily &amp;quot;massage&amp;quot; might help also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that if the leather is &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot; (not glued to a non-stretch reinforcing material) you can end up with curls instead of wrinkles - which would be quite bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a matter of fact, my initial reaction (before reading the text) was that the problem was in the upper part of the picture. So, if you wear that wallet in the rear pocket of your pants for a while, you should get your desired effect without any additional effort (besides carrying it with you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I would just embrace the new personality of the wallet, rather than risk destroying it. To anyone else besides you, the wallet looks exactly as it was supposed to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2023-04-06T09:29:19.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11624" CreationDate="2023-04-07T14:42:40.107" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an art project where I'd like to carve a jack-o-latern, let it decay slightly (think post halloween, pumpkin left out, slightly melting face) and then cover the result in chrome, or a similar mirror finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I preserve a jack-o-latern for posterity, while still getting the decaying effect?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I was thinking that something like dipping the carved pumpkin in bleach and then letting it dry, then adding some sort of protective clear coat might work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-04-11T07:57:05.073" LastActivityDate="2023-04-13T10:14:24.567" Title="How to preserve slightly decayed Jack-O-Latern" Tags="|preservation|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11621" CreationDate="2023-04-07T15:46:28.127" Score="3" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a mosaic/Turkish lamp class, and currently looking at seed beads for the infill.  Something like the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cL4k4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cL4k4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the seed beads I'm finding online are &lt;em&gt;silver lined&lt;/em&gt;.  I have two worries about these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That they might block more light than non-silver lined ones, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;that the silver lining might be too visible and not fit the aesthetic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with seed beads and translucent mosaics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T21:27:57.640" Title="Are silver lined seed beads appropriate for turkish or mosaic lamps?" Tags="|beads|lighting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11618" CreationDate="2023-04-07T17:38:29.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bleach will kill microorganisms on the surface, but it doesn't penetrate very far. If you want to let the pumpkin decay to the point that the structure starts to break down, bleach won't halt the decay. You would need to preserve it using a method that preserves biological specimens. I know immersing it in formaldehyde is often used. I think there is also a way to immerse it in successively less diluted alcohol. I'm not up on the subject, but it would be easy to research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you stop the decay and preserve it, it probably will be rubbery (at least the decayed areas), not rigid like a fresh pumpkin. It will also probably be very wet and difficult to dry to the point that you could paint it, at least without dehydrating it, which would change its appearance. To have something solid, you might need to create a mold of it and then cast a replica. There are relatively inexpensive ways to do that, which could make a good subject for another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the chrome effect, I have some ideas as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray-painting the result would work to get a chrome look. You wouldn't be limited to a specialty paint. You can buy chrome spray paint inexpensively at paint, hardware, or auto supply stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be less work to just make the entire Jack-o-lantern from clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-04-11T07:58:54.900" LastActivityDate="2023-04-11T07:58:54.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11619" CreationDate="2023-04-07T21:27:57.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have experiences with translucent mosaiks, but silver lined beads will create a very different look than your example image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main goal of silver lining beads is to make them more visible on a background like fabric. Light is reflected off the silver in the center (instead of just passing through and being absorbed by the fabric) and makes the bead stand out more, especially on dark fabric. But all that assumes the bead is being hit by light from the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try shining a light through a silber lined bead, you'll see a very dark line going through the center with only a halo of color around it. It will certainly not look as brilliant as the lamp in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you're looking for the wrong kind of material here... there are transparent plastic &amp;quot;raindrop pearls&amp;quot; available in many home decoration stores that might work better than actual beads because the don't have any holes in them. I've often seen similar shaped decor stones, pearls or nuggets (plasric and even glass) in several sizes and colors in home decor stores. Here's a random example from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Tafeldeko-Raindrops-Crystal-Decorative-Championship/dp/B00MYCIARC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; (not affiliated):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rqOh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rqOh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-04-07T21:27:57.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5392" CreationDate="2023-04-12T02:26:16.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hot water and a couple drops of rubbing alcohol is what I use to bring back all of my acrylics! Add a little at a time and mix well so that you know where you are with the process!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15668" LastActivityDate="2023-04-12T02:26:16.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11618" CreationDate="2023-04-13T10:14:24.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be much easier for you to carve the shape out of some material (polystyrene, soft wood, soft cements...) and then paint them to your taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT, if you really want to use biological specimens, you need to look at the method named &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastination&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;plastination&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. The Wikipedia article does not go into all the details, but if you research a bit more, you will find information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My worry is that you will need to waste a lot of time and a lot of material before you can consider yourself successful. Or you could just buy a license and their materials to use the technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am in no way affiliated with the people, companies or technologies (directly or indirectly) referenced in this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6715" LastActivityDate="2023-04-13T10:14:24.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-14T17:36:47.457" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to research sewing but haven't managed to find the appropriate key terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three types of stitch I've seen: inner stitches, side-by-side stitches, and outer stitches.  Examples are below, but &lt;strong&gt;what are the correct key terms for these?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inner stitch: faces touch in a way that is hidden:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzDII.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzDII.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side by side stitch: neither face touching:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMF9q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMF9q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Outer stitch (surged?): faces touch in a visible way:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pgvA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pgvA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-05-27T23:10:42.233" LastActivityDate="2023-05-27T23:10:42.233" Title="What are the proper key terms for inner stitch, side-by-side stitch, and outer stitch?" Tags="|sewing|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11625" CreationDate="2023-04-15T12:50:44.417" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're approaching the subject wrong. Whether a seam lies on the inside or outside of a garment has nothing to do with the type of stitch you use. It's called &amp;quot;inner seam&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;outer seam&amp;quot; respectively and the same stitch can produce an inner and outer seam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with this example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pgvA.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pgvA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The straight seams are &amp;quot;overlocked&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;serged&amp;quot;. This is a method designed to keep fabric edges from fraying and you'll find this type of seam finishing in most industrially sewn clothes. Usually the overlocked edge is on the inside of the garment. Putting it on the outside in this example was a design choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are special sewing machines called &amp;quot;serger&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;overlocker&amp;quot; that sew only this type of seam, but you can also do it on a regular sewing machine using a zig-zag stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzDII.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzDII.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a type of stitch. It's the method how most textile items are sewn. You sew them inside out (by putting the fabric &amp;quot;right sides together&amp;quot;), then you finish the edges to avoid fraying and finally you turn the item right side out. That makes the seams very neat and hidden inside the item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many, &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; ways to sew this type of seam. To give you some names to work with, see this example (&lt;a href=&quot;https://sewingmachinejudge.com/sewing-seams-seam-finishes-2/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;click the link&lt;/a&gt; to get a short description of every seam type shown below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQRva.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQRva.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you call &amp;quot;side by side stitching&amp;quot; is not done with fabric, for 2 reasons: fabric is too soft to hold its shape like this and the edges would fray and rip apart. This type of stitching is only done with materials that don't fray (like leather or neoprene) and that cannot fold over like fabric. This particular example is called &amp;quot;cross saddle stitch&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMF9q.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMF9q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-04-15T12:50:44.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11630" CreationDate="2023-04-19T19:43:54.713" Score="3" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to using my Cameo 4. I'm trying to cut out some reflective equilateral triangles from fabric and heat transfer vinyl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm able to cut all sorts of other shapes from this material, including some shark shapes that came with the software, and some different plant shapes that looked good as well. They all looked exactly how they looked in the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for some reason, my hollow equilateral triangles (yield signs) are not cutting very well. One side is always narrower than the others and it looks odd. I tried flipping the shape over to see if that made a difference, but it did not. I have every reason to believe that the PNG or SVG files that I'm using have equal sides. I double-checked this in Figma, where I generated the shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I just don't know what I might be doing wrong, or where I'm possibly missing something, or misusing the machine somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any ideas or things to check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sTO53.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sTO53.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBDFy.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OBDFy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/275SP.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/275SP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16803" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T08:29:52.583" Title="Silhouette Cameo 4 not able to cut hollow equilateral triangles with equal sides. What should I try?" Tags="|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11628" CreationDate="2023-04-20T00:08:56.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a Cameo a few times at the local makerspace. The flexibility in the settings is quite substantial. I would suggest to shift to a different material, adjust the settings appropriately. A light paper or construction paper will be less expensive and will provide a suitable test bed. If you have a plotter pen option, that would also be useful, drawing the shapes rather than cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examine the carrier sheet for damage from previous cuts, rotate the sheet, try a new one. If the HTV material has a backing, you can get away without a carrier sheet if the settings are correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned a program different from Silhouette Studio as the source of the design. Consider to create the shape in Studio to see if that changes the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T00:08:56.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11628" CreationDate="2023-04-20T08:29:52.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the cutting tool itself isn't as precise as you expect and you have to factor this inaccuracy into your design. (Please note that I've never used a Cameo, but the nature of the problem in inherent in all plotters / cutters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blade tools of the Cameo (and other plotters / cutters) looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcwU7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcwU7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blade itself is centered, but the point of the blade (where the actual cut is made) is not. That means, when the tool changes directions, the blade tip still follows the old direction for a few millimeters until it gets dragged into the center of the path. In addition to that the material you cut (fabric backed vinyl) may stretch and bunch up in front of the blade, increasing the inaccuracy even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking very closely at your sample, we see that one corner of each triangle is very pointy and the opposite one is rather rounded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2tnXs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2tnXs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is that the cutting tool moved clockwise when cutting one of the triangles and counter-clockwise when cutting the other one. That means that the little distance between the cutting point and the actual center of the path is applied twice in your case (outer triangle too much to the left, inner triangle too much to the right) and becomes too obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way around this is to plan for the tools inaccuracy in your design. Deliberately move the inner triangle to the left by the measured distance in your finished cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T08:29:52.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11034" CreationDate="2023-04-20T13:22:03.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The grip dots are likely made of thermoplastic elastomer, or TPE, as this material often seems to be used for grips of handheld tools. This material can get oily if it comes into contact with oils or solvents, or when exposed to high temperatures .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/11034/are-faber-castell-pencils-meant-to-be-oily#comment13442_11034&quot;&gt;mentioned in the comments&lt;/a&gt; (that is, on one account), this oiliness is not standard for the Faber-Castell Grip 2001.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to remove it, as suggested by user &lt;em&gt;fixer1234&lt;/em&gt;, with some water and &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/11034/are-faber-castell-pencils-meant-to-be-oily#comment13441_11034&quot;&gt;mild detergent&lt;/a&gt;, or with some &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/11034/are-faber-castell-pencils-meant-to-be-oily#comment13456_11034&quot;&gt;rubbing alcohol&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Using talcum powder or cornstarch you might be able to (temporarily) lessen the oiliness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/39972202&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt; from a forum on digital cameras might shed some more light as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;rubber&amp;quot; pad on the camera bottom is likely made from TPE - thermoplastic elastomer. Basically, it is a mixture of rubber and plastic that can be molded by thermoplastic injection molding machines. Google &amp;quot;Santoprene&amp;quot; for product information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once of the things that occur with TPE is oil migration. Rubber contains oil and it will slowly migrate to the outer surface. This process occurs so slowly that it is not noticed unless you have something like a metal plate covering the TPE for an extended period, and/or subjected to heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wipe it clean. It is normal, and no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-04-20T13:22:03.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3181" CreationDate="2023-04-22T22:18:12.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; hate pulling from skeins, inside or outside, mainly because a skein of yarn is really loose, and using something like a yarn bowl with a ball of yarn works really well and allows me to rewind it without looking &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; tight because skeins are wound around a center spoke as you see on yarn winders, just smaller. Balls of yarn are also easily portable, and you don't have to worry about it tangling (another side effect of skeins being loose) as several loops of yarn tend to fall off and impede knitting or crochet. But it's always a personal choice, there are reasons for leaving in a skein like if you don't actually take it around, then you don't need to spend time winding a ball, and for some people it's the ball winding process that gives them the most tangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-04-23T09:15:14.553" LastActivityDate="2023-04-23T09:15:14.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11637" CreationDate="2023-04-23T01:21:11.487" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project where I need to mount a speaker inside a pre-fabricated 8” steel sphere. The cutout diameter for my speaker is 5.25”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cleanest way to cut the 5.25” hole in to the 8” steel sphere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to a drill press, a Dremel, a hand drill, and some files. Open to buying other tools for the project if they’re not super expensive, but don’t really have access to any water jet / laser cutting thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my steel sphere and speaker components for reference. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kingmetals.com/Mobile/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=2338&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kingmetals.com/Mobile/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=2338&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W5-1138SMF-5-1-4-Paper-Cone-Subwoofer-Speaker-264-917?quantity=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W5-1138SMF-5-1-4-Paper-Cone-Subwoofer-Speaker-264-917?quantity=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2023-04-23T07:03:39.397" Title="How to Cut 5.25” Circle in 8” Steel Sphere" Tags="|metalworking|metal|cutting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11426" CreationDate="2023-04-23T04:46:32.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple stitch pattern to use for a thicker, and thus more insulating stitch pattern, is double stockinette, it's a two-stitch repeat, k1 s1wyif, translation, knit one and slip one with yarn in front, and on the return row, the stitches that you knitted(aka the ones with a purl bump) are the ones that you should slip. &lt;strong&gt;Warning&lt;/strong&gt;, this pattern uses a lot of yarn, since it is two layers of plain stockinette stitch but that is a fair trade-off for thicker work. This is a simple explanation, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://nimble-needles.com/stitches/how-to-knit-the-double-stockinette-stitch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is a better explanation, with pictures and video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few extra tips for this stitch pattern, use needles a size down what your yarn recommends, and &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; forget that yarn in front while slipping otherwise it doesn't look like stockinette stitch, if you change up the knit stitches, you can create double 1x1 ribbing which will be a great insulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt; I have no affiliation whatsoever with the website(s) posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastEditorUserId="16813" LastEditDate="2023-04-24T16:45:17.217" LastActivityDate="2023-04-24T16:45:17.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10834" CreationDate="2023-04-23T05:04:40.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The slipknot can either be a purl or knit stitch, I looked at it closely and there is a purl bump and a V (a small reminder that knits and purls are the same but reversed). It'd be easy to switch it based on your pattern because you can just take it off flip it and put it back, although it won't make a big difference since it's one stitch among an edge, which is bound to look different than the rest of the work, and it's one stitch of hundreds(for most things).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is if you look closely you can tell whether or not it's a purl or knit(it can differ based on your slipknot tying technique) and you can choose which one you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2023-04-23T14:24:34.110" LastActivityDate="2023-04-23T14:24:34.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10832" CreationDate="2023-04-23T05:12:48.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do is I put the needle in through the first stitch and I can switch the yarn to the front or back by going around the entire needle around the bottom and then I have it as I want. But if your edges look wonky then maybe it's a technique issue with your selvage and &lt;a href=&quot;https://nimble-needles.com/tutorials/how-to-knit-neat-edges-essential-knitting-tips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;'s a link to a few tips to improve selvage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt; I have no affiliation whatsoever with the website link(s) posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastEditorUserId="16813" LastEditDate="2023-04-25T20:04:45.200" LastActivityDate="2023-04-25T20:04:45.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11633" CreationDate="2023-04-23T07:03:39.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hole saw&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1V8PI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1V8PI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Image Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09ZTV19BG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will look generally like this, but the cutting edge may vary depending on what is required to cut the steel (how hard it is). You will probably be fine with a hole saw rated for steel pipe. 5.25&amp;quot; is a commonly available size in bi-metal hole saws. It needs a cutting depth of more than 1-1/8&amp;quot; because the curvature of the sphere will put the pilot hole 1&amp;quot; inside the hole saw before it contacts the surface to be cut, and the sphere wall is about 1/8&amp;quot; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rotary tool circle cutting jig&lt;/strong&gt;. You might need to make one for this task. It's an arm with a mounting attachment for the rotary tool at one end, and an adjustable pivot point. You can buy these for cutting circles on flat material; the arm is usually rigid. For this task, you need an arm that will bend around the sphere so that the cutting bit can do its work close to the collet. Because of the curvature, you would need to set the radius roughly 1/4&amp;quot; longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-04-23T07:03:39.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-24T16:40:41.807" Score="3" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my sweater knitting technique, I use M1R (Make 1 Right) and M1L (Make 1 Left) with two knit stitches in between every other round as shown in RJ Knits video on his top-down sweater (&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/GV05jGAuGIk?t=380&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) and it leaves some small eyelets and it made me wonder if there is a better increase that would improve it specifically for this increase pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;: I have no affiliation whatsoever with the website link(s) posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-04-26T08:34:35.680" LastActivityDate="2023-05-26T14:41:42.873" Title="What's one of the best increase techniques that can avoid or minimize eyelets for sweaters?" Tags="|knitting|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-27T03:41:55.600" Score="3" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I am working on a project where I am mounting a set of speakers into steel spheres as enclosures. I have holes cut in the spheres to accept the speaker body, which fit nicely, but the mounting bracket of the speaker sticks out on either side due to the curvature of the sphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a good method for filling or eliminating this gap? The steel sphere is 8&amp;quot; diameter, the speaker is 6.14&amp;quot; outside diameter (edge of the mounting bracket), and the cutout in the sphere for the speaker body is 5.25&amp;quot;. Here are some pictures of my setup for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNf5y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNf5y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r7HHO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4ZWv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4ZWv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three strategies came to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Getting a rubber gasket that could sit between the speaker bracket and the surface of the sphere. This is easy install wise, but seems hard to find the correctly sized part and might end up with the same problem, just with a gap between the bottom of the gasket and the sphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dremeling notches into the edges of the cutout of a pre-calculated depth and spacing, then hammering the notched sections flat. Pretty labor intensive and potentially imprecise, but would probably lead to the closest mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hammering the edges of the speaker mount to sit flush with the sphere. Probably would look busted, but it's on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these or other methods that seem like they would be the best approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my steel sphere and speaker components for reference. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kingmetals.com/Mobile/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=2338&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kingmetals.com/Mobile/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=2338&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W5-1138SMF-5-1-4-Paper-Cone-Subwoofer-Speaker-264-917?quantity=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W5-1138SMF-5-1-4-Paper-Cone-Subwoofer-Speaker-264-917?quantity=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2023-04-27T15:49:43.800" Title="Fill Gap Between Speaker Mounting Bracket and Spherical Steel Enclosure" Tags="|metalworking|metal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11641" CreationDate="2023-04-27T08:03:57.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option you have would be to find a local makerspace or solicit a creation via &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/3Drequests/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit&lt;/a&gt; for someone to design and print on a 3D printer the precise shape you require.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a simple matter to generate a cylinder of the diameter of the flange and of sufficient height to intersect the sphere. As you have already the diameters of both, various parametric modeling programs can accept those values and provide for a plastic &amp;quot;collar&amp;quot; which would meld the two shapes together in a semi-organic fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IO0X2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IO0X2.png&quot; alt=&quot;sphere and collar&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I threw together the above image in OpenSCAD but didn't bother to run the math necessary to allow for the speaker, other than the outside diameter. The code to create this image is four lines and would be more for the entire project, but it's representative of one method to create a starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can choose the material and color to match the desired sound characteristics. PLA is a hard inexpensive plastic while TPU can be found in varying flexibility ratings which may damp some frequencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, printing something of this type of design can be done with the flat side on the print bed, removing the need for support material and the attendant post-processing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-04-27T08:03:57.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11641" CreationDate="2023-04-27T15:49:43.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Silicone or polyurethane caulk&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to practice a bit on how to apply it neatly, but it will fill a gap of this size well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the speaker to be removable, wax the sphere before applying the caulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6856" LastActivityDate="2023-04-27T15:49:43.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2023-04-28T02:13:25.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the dilemma for joining in a new ball of yarn, how to do it in the most invisible way possible. There aren't any good options (that I know of) for avoiding tails while leaving the work unaffected, so you will probably have to settle for the tail options but for something like the superwash singles yarn you mentioned with fine lace, then I don't know at all because I've never knitted with that yarn in lace before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastActivityDate="2023-04-28T02:13:25.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="66" CreationDate="2023-04-28T02:53:28.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that a stitch marker would be useful, but a custom-made one from scrap yarn. What I'd do is take a strand and make a loop in it and before you start your next stitch, slide it between the work and hook, with the loop facing away from you, this way you can use the other side of the marker (that being the side without the loop because you turn the work) and you pull that side and guide the hook through. To help with the chain row, I'd pull the marker through the loop with the hook in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastActivityDate="2023-04-28T02:53:28.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10462" CreationDate="2023-04-28T03:29:45.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good skill to have is to be able to read charts as they can be more concise as well as make it easier to visualize the look of the pattern. &lt;a href=&quot;https://nimble-needles.com/tutorials/read-knitting-charts-for-beginners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link (no affiliation) to a tutorial to help you read charts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up what a chart says, the bottom row of numbers is how many stitches you need to cast on, and each column will show you that on each row, you need to do a certain stitch, and the numbers on the sides are the rows, and you start on the bottom right usually and the return row will start on the same column that you ended the previous row on, just up one row.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The key will tell you what each symbol on the chart will mean and what you should do, all you have to do is keep track of where you are and you can keep a note of that, or just count rows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-05-02T08:07:39.627" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T08:07:39.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-04-29T18:48:49.353" Score="2" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to fabricate an acrylic/plexiglass bonnet with an open top and outside dimensions of 20&amp;quot; x 20&amp;quot; x 36&amp;quot; with 1/4&amp;quot; wall thickness. Essentially the bonnet pictured below, but with no top:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/38j3N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/38j3N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yiqk5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yiqk5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qYrSw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qYrSw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems easy enough by gluing two 20&amp;quot; x 36&amp;quot; pieces to two 19.5&amp;quot; x 36&amp;quot; pieces. But I don't understand how to get the really smooth and seamless-looking edges that are pictured here? Did they use a heat gun to do this? Or is there a particular type of adhesive or polishing process I need to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2023-05-01T14:43:14.847" LastActivityDate="2023-05-01T14:43:14.847" Title="How to Make a Plexiglass Bonnet with Seamless Edges?" Tags="|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11650" CreationDate="2023-05-01T22:34:55.260" Score="4" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought two skeins of Crafter's Secret Big Idea cobalt blue yarn (810 yards) for a sweater that I'm knitting and the second skein had a knot that I didn't tie in the middle of it, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T08:04:38.097" Title="Why does my yarn have a random knot in it?" Tags="|knitting|yarn|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11649" CreationDate="2023-05-02T08:04:38.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely just a &lt;a href=&quot;https://skeinyarn.com/blogs/notions/lets-talk-about-knots&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;yarn knot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yarn is essentially a piece of string that, during the milling process, sometimes breaks. The mill isn't going to throw away good yarn because of a single breakage. So, what they do is tie the yarn together with a knot and the process carries on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is corroborated &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stitchandstory.com/blogs/getting-started/natural-vs-synthetic-yarns-why-does-my-yarn-have-knots-in-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knots aren't tangled yarn, they're a point where the yarn has been broken and tied back together. They can be a frustrating but unfortunately inevitable part of knitting with natural fibres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding a knot in a new ball of yarn can be irritating but unless you hand spin your yarn, and know where your joins are, you’re likely to come across more than a few if you regularly knit with natural yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can treat it like a new ball of yarn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-05-02T08:04:38.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-14T06:49:30.563" Score="2" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a plan for my mask to make a template pattern out of in a 3D modeling software, as seen below. The blue model is for scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDM5h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDM5h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;![A 3D model of the mask I plan to make, with a picture of its planned pattern on the side&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty big, and the only foam I have right now is 2mm thick, so I'm worried that it won't be very sturdy, especially in the horns. So, I'm wondering, is there a good way to support it? I was thinking either cutting out more foam or a different material to go inside of it like in the next image, or make a wire skeleton. Would I have to try and get thicker foam instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ldtz7.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ldtz7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Different flat shapes lodged inside of the model.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To note, I also plan on making a sword prop that I have the same issue with, and I'm hoping that I'll be able to use the same method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16883" LastEditorUserId="16883" LastEditDate="2023-05-15T04:41:40.550" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T04:41:40.550" Title="How would I go about making this 2mm EVA foam mask sturdier, and what should I use?" Tags="|material-selection|costume-design|foam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11652" CreationDate="2023-05-14T15:17:15.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your model is hollow but able to hold its own shape, you could use an expanding foam to fill it in order to make it solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be extremely sparing as if you use too much it could burst out of the seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From context you seem to know your way around 3D modelling software, so you could simply make a crude version of your mask in the software and then ask someone at your nearest makerspace to help you to 3D print it, and then wrap the foam around the 3D print as a surface finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-05-14T15:17:15.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-15T01:58:33.120" Score="1" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project where I need to have a 2-stitch cable cross over the other as shown in the picture. But I want it to be symmetrical (as in I don't just want one crossing over the other) and I don't know how, or even if it's possible. How would I do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture (&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/14IbU5rQG7-JTAtThjhCBFHzfIJuM2aMM/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/14IbU5rQG7-JTAtThjhCBFHzfIJuM2aMM/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T08:47:47.853" Title="How to knit a cross for 2 stitch cables that is symetrical" Tags="|knitting|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11654" CreationDate="2023-05-16T08:47:47.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 possibilities that come to my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't cross&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a cable you purl the background and knit the cables while shifting the cable stitches to the left or right in each row. If you don't shift the positions of the stitches in the next 2 rounds, the cables will still stand out, but they won't be crossed. It will look like they touch, but never interwine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only method I know of to make it absolutely symmetrical. However, even if you knit the cables perfectly side by side with 4 perfectly even stitches, our human minds will always see the pattern as 2 distinct cables that touch and move apart again, instead of cables that cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intertwine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of crossing both cables with 2 stitches each, you can also cross all 4 stitches individually. That will make the asymmetry stand out slightly less. But crossing is always asymmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knit the rows as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knit the first stitch of the cable, cross 2 stitches, knit the last stitch of the other cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cross the first 2 stitches, keeping the outer stitch behind the work, then cross the last 2 stitches, keeping the inner stitch in front of the work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knit the first stitch of the cable, cross 2 stitches, making sure they cross the same direction as in row 1, knit the last stitch of the other cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-05-16T08:47:47.853" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11658" CreationDate="2023-05-17T09:56:44.650" Score="3" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ring I was told is made of 'white gold' that has a glossy, mirror-like finish that is a problem for two reasons: 1) it easily scratches and 2) I'd prefer the ring to be less flashy/visually loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What material is recommended to abrade the outside of the ring to change it from more glossy to more matte? A fine-grit sandpaper, perhaps? Would that have any effects on the surface, like making it feel rough (hopefully not)? Also, if this goes wrong could it be polished again? Thanks for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhPlg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhPlg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ring with finish&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvuz9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvuz9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ring material based on stamp&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 585 in the hallmark appears to mean 14-carat gold, a measure of purity. I don't know what the &amp;quot;Ωλ 85&amp;quot; means, but one website suggests it represents the manufacturer. The ring is from Greece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second characteristic ‒which is not mandatory for Greece‒ reflects&#xA;the identity of the manufacturer, in the form of letters, symbols or&#xA;numbers. This is a special feature, which is at the manufacturer's&#xA;discretion whether to engrave it on the jewelry or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://kiriakosgofas.gr/ti-einai-ta-karatia-xrusou/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://kiriakosgofas.gr/ti-einai-ta-karatia-xrusou/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16894" LastEditorUserId="16894" LastEditDate="2023-05-17T15:01:31.930" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T15:52:31.933" Title="What kind of material is recommended to abrade a ring to reduce glossy finish?" Tags="|metalworking|metal|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11657" CreationDate="2023-05-17T15:52:31.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ring appears to be solid so polishing with various grades of silicon carbide paper ( wet  or dry ) will provide various degrees of matte like finish. Good hardware store or auto pars store will have these papers. I suspect 320 grit will be close to what you want. For one small component like the ring, hand polishing should be satisfactory. I would start with 180 or 240 grit; they may even be satisfactory . Remember , they work by removing metal. Or a cooperative local jeweler may do it at lost cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T15:52:31.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5379" CreationDate="2023-05-17T18:14:49.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like in flat knitting (assuming that you're knitting in the round) you need to alternate between purl and knit stitches each round, so you could either knit by the pattern, purling all knits and kitting all purls, or you could use a stitch marker (at least 1 stitch away from the end of the needle) to mark where you need to switch stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extra option that you have is that you could also knit it flat and join it in the round with mattress stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16813" LastActivityDate="2023-05-17T18:14:49.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11661" CreationDate="2023-05-18T23:25:53.023" Score="4" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a &amp;quot;Tibetan Flag&amp;quot; class where students will make their own string flags.  I've been trying to find the appropriate fabric, but everything I've found so far is either too substantial, or too thin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzDYh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzDYh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a name for this type of cloth?  It's thicker than sheer cloth, but thinner than pretty much anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastActivityDate="2023-09-25T10:13:04.703" Title="What is the name for cloth that is extremely thin/transparent, but not quite sheer?" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11660" CreationDate="2023-05-19T08:17:54.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be cotton muslin, but I don't know if this is the traditional material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Muslin is a very loosely woven material, but with thick threads. That means you can see through it when you hold it against the light, but it looks more substantial when no light is shining through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Muslin is more like the name of a category of cloth, not the name of a specific cloth. Things like cheesecloth are called muslin, but are probably woven too loosely for your purpose. Things like nut milk bags are also called muslin, but are probably too fine. General information like weight per square meter won't help much either because a fabric might be heavier because it's either woven loosely from heavier thread or because it's woven tighter from finer thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid you'll have to try samples from some different fabrics. A local fabric store will probably make this process much easier than ordering samples online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-05-20T08:04:12.950" LastActivityDate="2023-05-20T08:04:12.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-20T13:12:53.357" Score="2" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;Project: To make a life sized statue of Freddy Mercury in black marble effect casting resin (Two part epoxy, 1 to 1 by volume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Process: A clay statue has been sculpted around a mesh armature, and a standard box mold has been created using the clay statue. This has been completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A welded rod skeleton will be placed inside the mold, the skeleton will be load bearing, and will allow easy mounting of the finished statue to a plinth, and for the attachment of the arms and head, which are being made separately. This has been completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The body of the skeleton will be wrapped in a low grade fiberglass material and coated in a two part resin which will harden around the skeleton further strengthening it, and filling up space inside the mold with a material that is lighter weight than the marble resin to reduce the overall weight of the statue. It is also cheaper than the marble resin, reducing the overall cost to produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a thick layer of fiberglass is used (with additional material packed underneath it to pad it out) there will only be enough room left inside the mold for a thin outer layer of marble effect resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if only a thin layer of fiberglass is used (with no additional padding underneath it) there will be more room inside the mold for a thicker layer of marble effect resin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has not yet been completed, but is a method that has previously been used for 1/4 scale sculptures with good effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be over a dozen separate pours involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: should the &amp;quot;padding&amp;quot; around the skeleton be kept to a minimum so as to allow a thick layer of resin as is technically possible(For example, 1-2 inches on the body and legs), or should it be heavily used so that the resin forms only a thin skin on the surface of the statue (For example, 1/8 - 1/4 of an inch) with the bulk of the statue consisting of fiberglass over an armature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a good in between level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer recommends a maximum thickness of no more than 2 inches. In practice a thickness of over 1 1/2 inches will may not be practical due to the number of pours required, so as to not put too much stress on the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resin is purely a decorative finish and is not load bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2023-05-21T16:49:04.810" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T20:29:56.677" Title="Recommended resin thickness on a life sized status cast around a metal armature?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11662" CreationDate="2023-05-22T05:20:30.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the resin itself isn't load bearing, you should try to reduce the amount of it as much as reasonable. Adding more resin to the statue adds considerably more weight wich may overwhelm the capacity of the armature or other parts of the resin which have to support protruding details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing the thicknesses of different resin objects I'd say 1/8th of an inch is too thin. That is basically a thin sheet of resin that I'd mostly use for jewelry or &amp;quot;stained glass&amp;quot; resin objects. It feels fragile, though I personally never broke one. However, air bubbles or irregularities in the mold and padding could reduce the thickness even more, leading to gaps or fragile areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/2 of an inch feels more secure. That's a thickness you find in resin coasters, lamps and other artworks like bowls and wall decorations. These objects can support their own weight and don't break when handled roughly. The statue should easily be able to withstand someone (or something) bumping into it without damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 inch thickness or more feels like a waste to me. It adds a lot more weight (and cost) to the statue without any perceived benefit. Since your resin is black, you won't even need the thickness to achieve full coverage of the stuffing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last word about the padding: I hope you pack or secure it tightly enough to the armature that it cannot shift or rotate around the metal rods. If not, you create something like plate tectonics with the potential to fail spectacularly. If the resin &amp;quot;floats&amp;quot; on a layer that can shift around or that is only attached to the armature in very few places, you might damage your stature during transport or installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-05-22T05:20:30.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-22T20:09:46.423" Score="2" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a floating shelf of concrete, using a mold.  I want several edges to have smooth round rocks embedded in them with a bit of &amp;quot;relief&amp;quot; to reveal semi-spherical rocks.  Ideally I would build up these edges of the mold with a firm liquid resin using gravity to hold the rocks in place, then become firmer. Then I will pour the concrete.  Once the concrete is dry and removed from the mold, I'd like to wash away the resin to reveal the rock - now on the edge of the concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to hold the rocks in place AND keep the concrete from forming out to the edge of the mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What material can I use to do this ? The color or clarity of the resin is not important as it will be washed away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16931" LastEditorUserId="16931" LastEditDate="2023-05-22T20:12:09.700" LastActivityDate="2023-09-03T16:16:10.483" Title="I am looking for a hard set resin that can be washed away with water" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11665" CreationDate="2023-05-22T21:19:22.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a 3D printer operator, the first thought in my alleged mind is to use PVA, a type of (expensive) filament which is printed as support for complex models. The model is placed in a water bath and agitated, which dissolves the PVA, leaving a cleanly supported model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVA is also a component of white glue and yellow glue (paper and wood glue), but I've not tried to wash away dried glue of either type for any reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, hot glue is a similar product and I can attest from experience that hot glue will drop its bond when subjected to isopropyl alcohol. This may be the most effective method to accomplish your objective. A bulk purchase of glue sticks, deposited in your mold using a hot air gun for maximum thermal transfer will provide both the securing of the semi-spherical rocks as well as the exclusion of the concrete mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you decline to use IPA to remove the hot glue, it will also fall free of the concrete and rock mix under the heat gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-05-22T21:19:22.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11240" CreationDate="2023-05-23T19:35:26.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a few of these repairs. They're never perfect.&#xA;It can be soldered using silver solder, if you know how to do that. With this fine a piece I'd use easy or Easy45 solder and be very careful with flame control, using your finest torch tip. I would also make sure to use some kind of antiflux down the length of the chain where you DON'T want it soldered for at least 1/2 cm (more won't hurt). Note that this will solder it together, and with the right cleaning you won't see the join. However, the chain will no longer be flexible where it was joined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16939" LastActivityDate="2023-05-23T19:35:26.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11175" CreationDate="2023-05-26T13:50:48.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a job for a denture-reliner kit. It won't be a permanent fix and will need to be repeated, but it should give you a good, solid connection between the two parts that will hold well. Depending on how often you unscrew the parts, I'd imagine you'd only have to repeat this every six months to a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a denture-reliner kit that gives you a powder and a liquid to&#xA;combine together into a gloopy substance that can be applied to a&#xA;denture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow the instructions for combining the ingredients into&#xA;the gloop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a coating of the gloop around the insert of the pen that goes into the barrel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the pen together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe off any excess gloop with a damp cloth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait the amount of time it says to wait in the denture-reliner kit's  instructions (usually a few minutes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the pen and set the pen part somewhere to dry and set (I'd give it at least half an hour and preferably a few hours).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's any excess gloop that you didn't manage to wipe off properly, it can be trimmed off with scissors or a craft knife.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't like the end result or would like to do the job over with some fresh gloop, hot water and a bit of elbow grease will remove the stuff from the pen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastActivityDate="2023-05-26T13:50:48.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11639" CreationDate="2023-05-26T14:41:42.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TECHknitter offers a &amp;quot;very nearly invisible increase&amp;quot; that may work for you depending on the kind of stitching you're doing the increases into. What she does is lift the next stitch's parent stitch up onto the left needle untwisted and then she knits into it and into the next stitch. See it &lt;a href=&quot;https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/05/very-nearly-invisible-increase.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4733" LastActivityDate="2023-05-26T14:41:42.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11677" CreationDate="2023-05-27T16:41:25.320" Score="2" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;One teacher told me it doesn't matter at all as long as half the stitch is on the fabric - the machine will accommodate and tighten. Another woman told me she always keeps the full stitch on the fabric for it to work correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16959" LastActivityDate="2023-05-28T10:21:40.397" Title="Can you sew over the edge of the fabric with a zigzag stitch using a sewing machine?" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11678" CreationDate="2023-05-27T20:51:48.810" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Paasche VL airbrush that, up until a month ago, hadn't been used in about 30 years. I got a compressor and used it twice successfully for about a half hour each time. A booklet that came with the compressor recommended cleaning it with a 50-50 mix of Windex and water, so I sprayed a few ounces through it each time when I was done painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to use it today and air comes out when depressing the trigger, but pulling back on the trigger is very stiff and won't dispense paint. Once pulled back, the trigger is loose and the rocker stays put. When I loosen the lock nut, the trigger and rocker snap back into the normal position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZzVq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZzVq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Airbrush with stuck needle&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the needle is stuck. I've tried pulling it out per the instructions but I can't move it more than a millimeter or two by hand. I'm reluctant to use pliers in case I damage it, but don't know what else to do. Assuming that's the problem, how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compressor booklet says to lubricate the needle but don't use WD-40 or light machine oil. It doesn't say what type of lubricant to use instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16790" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-05-27T22:49:20.577" LastActivityDate="2023-05-28T15:40:40.323" Title="How can I unstick my airbrush needle?" Tags="|maintenance|tool-usage|airbrush|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-27T22:42:14.773" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some paint brushes require people to transport plastic, wood, or fibers for bristles to a paint-brush factory in a tractor trailer (aka &lt;em&gt;semi-truck&lt;/em&gt;). The tractor trailers burn fossil fuels. If the paint brush is used in the United States and manufactured in China, then ships burn diesel fuel carrying the brushes across the ocean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not intend to lecture. If we move on with the discussion, just assume that someone might want a paint brush containing no plastic parts, metal parts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would an arts &amp;amp; craft enthusiast create their own environmentally friendly (&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;green&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;?) paint brush, which harms plants and/or animals less than a store-bought brush (relatively speaking)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16829" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-05-27T22:45:43.580" LastActivityDate="2023-06-03T02:04:43.257" Title="How do I make home-made environmentally friendly paint brushes?" Tags="|painting|paint|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11679" CreationDate="2023-05-27T23:17:47.423" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project where I need to stain a birch dowel to a dark brown natural wood color. I tried my normal Varathane Dark Walnut stain (an oil-based stain which has worked really well for me in the past on both poplar hardwood and Baltic birch plywood), and for some reason it turned out horribly, much lighter than in past iterations and really blotchy / streaky. Looking into ways I can fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend recommended trying a tea staining method like the one described here, which uses a chemical reaction between black tea, vinegar, and steel wool: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.js2partners.com/amp/how-to-distress-wood-diy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.js2partners.com/amp/how-to-distress-wood-diy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether the fact that the wood has already accepted an oil stain will prevent this from working. Please advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastEditorUserId="15968" LastEditDate="2023-05-27T23:45:18.360" LastActivityDate="2023-05-28T18:05:06.610" Title="Can Tea Staining Be Used on Wood That Has Already Had an Oil-Based Stain?" Tags="|wood|color|woodworking|staining|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11673" CreationDate="2023-05-28T10:21:40.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can sew over the edge of the fabric with a zig-zag stitch, but depending on the configuration of your machine, the results can look very differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One common problem is that the feed dog (the little teeth in the bottom plate that transport the fabric) cannot grab the fabric on both sides of the needle. Every sewing machine is different, so some people may find that the fabric is pulled to one side or isn't transported at all, but others may not experience any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overlocked edge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common application for a zig-zag stitch on the edge of fabric is to finish the edge to avoid fraying. You may have to reduce the tension of the upper thread to get a clean result, otherwise the fabric can be pulled together. There are also special sewing foots that keep the fabric flat after sewing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSxMmm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSxMmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overlock sewing foot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rolled edge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another application where you want one side of the zig-zag to be off the fabric is a decorative rolled edge. You need to increase the tension of the upper thread to deliberately pull the fabric together. Inserting a string of yarn at the edge increases the visual size of the finished edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/48Jj6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/48Jj6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rolled hwm sewn by machine&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-05-28T10:21:40.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11674" CreationDate="2023-05-28T15:40:40.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I usually just use my teeth in situations like this, because I'm uncouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, take a pair of pliers with a wide flat set of jaws, and a thick elastic band. Grip the needle with the elastic band between the needle and the jaws. This will allow you to get a good grip without risking damaging the needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't come out with a gentle tug, then soak your airbrush in the appropriate thinning agent for the paint that you're using overnight, and then try again in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-05-28T15:40:40.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11676" CreationDate="2023-05-28T18:05:06.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oil from the first stain will have penetrated the wood grains to a varying degree, and will prevent the tea and vinegar stain from distributing evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; not result in an obvious blotchiness, but it very well could. Moreover, the reason the first stain turned out &amp;quot;blotchy/streaky&amp;quot; can have several causes, and these could all influence this subsequent layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-05-28T18:05:06.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-29T17:16:11.093" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to identify the pattern of the purse in the image below, and want to know how to begin the chain number of the stitch. Is it a double crochet or single crochet? What type of yarn do I use for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVr2L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVr2L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16739" LastEditorUserId="6398" LastEditDate="2023-06-13T14:25:20.923" LastActivityDate="2024-03-18T07:07:05.790" Title="Can someone identify the pattern of these purses?" Tags="|crocheting|yarn|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11686" CreationDate="2023-05-29T19:42:39.933" Score="0" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to order a canvas painting of dignified men walking in a boulevard. I was told that solid colors on the sides of the canvas won't look good. I saw many samples of canvas on the web where the sides are just continuation of the scene, however I considered having blurred background on the sides (same texture as the edges of the painting, but blurred). Another option was a mirrored reflection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify - with canvas sides I mean the actual canvas fabric that is stretched over the sides of a wooden frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any guidelines to this? Which style is the most appropriate for such painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16969" LastEditorUserId="16969" LastEditDate="2023-05-30T20:23:47.473" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T13:22:01.993" Title="How to choose style for canvas painting's sides?" Tags="|painting|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-30T15:30:36.060" Score="3" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project building speaker enclosures using hollow carbon steel spheres like the kind listed here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dA1dm.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dA1dm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kingmetals.com/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=1349&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to produce these enclosures with a variety of looks / finishes, but with a consistent form factor and fabrication process, so I want to use the same sphere component as a starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one of the looks / finishes, I was thinking a blackened cast / raw iron look would be really cool, something like in these reference images:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pQk5.png&quot; width=&quot;350&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/umB8h.jpg&quot; width=&quot;450&quot;&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any treatment I could do to the outside of the steel sphere that would achieve this kind of look + texture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-05-30T17:08:02.587" LastActivityDate="2023-05-30T17:18:34.623" Title="Surface Treatment to Make Carbon Steel Look Like Cast Iron" Tags="|material-selection|metalworking|metal|technique-selection|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-05-30T16:26:51.713" Score="2" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want create a small statue with a set of gargoyle\bat like wings that are outstretched, but which curve inwards. The total span of each win will be less than 8&amp;quot; (≈ 20 cm) from base to tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd like to cast the wings using a clear two part epoxy resin with a recommended mixture of equal parts by volume A and B, and to color them with alcohol based ink and containing light refracting particles so that they appear to glow when a light is shined through them from embedded LED lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have achieved this effect before with other statues so I know that I can achieve this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that when trying to cast a thin curved object like this, using a two part mold will A) be very hard to get right and B) require a lot of casting silicon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to attempt to cast the wings flat, and then to remove them from the mold before they have fully hardened, and introduce the cure manually by bending them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would need the resin to be touch dry so that the details are not destroyed when the bend is introduced, but not fully hardened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this is possible as I've previously accomplished the effect by accident—though I am not certain how. Possibly through contamination or incorrect mixing (cast models sagging, and then hardening to normal levels later on so that they cannot be un-sagged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any known techniques, such as using incorrect proportions, or mixing in additional chemical agents, that would allow the resin to remain pliable after setting, and then set fully later on?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-05-30T16:57:48.407" LastActivityDate="2023-06-02T06:16:06.520" Title="Manually bending an epoxy-resin object: can I adjust the materials to have it remain pliable?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11683" CreationDate="2023-05-30T17:18:34.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obscure alchemical recipes aside, the easiest way to &amp;quot;turn&amp;quot; steel into cast iron is by painting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steel probably needs to be degreased (using thinner) and primed (with a metal primer). After that you can simply apply acrylic paint to the sphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mix in dirt or sand with the acrylics to get that textured look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest finding real-life reference for the look you're going for: your reference images look off and somewhat fake, especially too blue. Using real-life reference you could easily see the size of the particles you can mix in with the paint, and even get the sheen and reflectivity right, if so you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-05-30T17:18:34.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11682" CreationDate="2023-05-30T22:15:19.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that a solid colour on the sides of a canvas looks bad. The reason we started hanging paintings on the wall without frames (since the second half of the 20th century) was to accentuate the paint, the process, the craft, and often leaves the evolution of the painting visible. Covering it up again makes it look like a very cheap alternative to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A continuation of the scene on the sides of the painting can often be seen when an artist finds out at a later stage during the process that there is a better composition or crop available. Part of the painting gets eliminated this way, but at least remains visible.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This also emphasises the process. If a continuation is painted onto the sides after the framing, however, this will likely be visible. So not something you should (be able to) choose for, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what exactly you are talking about when you say &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;blurred background on the sides (same texture as the edges of the painting, but blurred)&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, but I think this will again seem like a cheap trick, and I would advice against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, a &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;mirrored reflection&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; is quite a vague description to me, but idem dito.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bottom line: if you want to have the edges remain visible, stretch the painting unto a stretcher the way the artist intended, and leave the edges as they are.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If that is not to your liking, you can add a frame to the painting.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-05-31T13:22:01.993" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T13:22:01.993" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11682" CreationDate="2023-05-31T05:29:39.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe as an addition to Joachims answer I'd like to highlight the different processes how the edge of the canvas gets it's paint. You'll see that it can be an indication of how the artist worked and the overall subjective quality of the painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bare edges indicate that the canvas was stretched on the same frame while it was painted and the artist simply didn't paint the edges. This has a tendency to look unclean because you cannot stop painting perfectly at the edge. IMO it indicates the work of a hobbyist who didn't think about the edges while painting. It can also be an artist's choice if more of the canvas is left bare (think of abstract paintings that only have some paint splashed at them).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid colored edges are the next step many hobbyists take because the bare edges look weird. It can look good if the majority of the background has the same color, but looks weird if the scene is painted all the way to the edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mirrored edges are an indication of a print. Digital artists create the image just as it should be on the front of the canvas, but usually neglect to extend the image to allow the canvas to wrap around the frame. The typical workaround to avoid bare edges is to mirror the content at the edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A continuation of the background around the edges is what we typically associate with a handmade, high quality painting. Traditionally the artist stretches the canvas on a frame to paint it, then it's left to dry flat and finally stretched on a slightly smaller frame so no bare parts of the canvas are visible. At the time of painting, the artist doesn't know exactly where the edge of the final frame will start. Alternatively the artist does paint on the final frame and deliberately extends the painting around the edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, if you want to hire an artist to paint a canvas for you, you should speak to them about such details. They'll be able (from experience) to tell you what they're able to achieve and what looks good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T05:29:39.277" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11684" CreationDate="2023-05-31T06:16:50.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Curing epoxy is a gradual process. It goes from liquid to completely hard in a certain amount of time, but in that time it goes through several stages like goopy, tacky, touch dry and bendy, only slightly bendy and fully hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can bend any correctly mixed epoxy, but the hard part is finding the right moment to do so and supporting the bent part until it's fully cured. An additional challenge is that any tools you use to bend or support the epoxy can leave permanent marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer the curing time of the epoxy is, the longer it stays in each stage, so a longer curing epoxy might be better for this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/WeshDOA3vR0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Youtube tutorial&lt;/a&gt; shows how to bend epoxy that isn't fully cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/hCmE2yY8Kvk?t=592&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; indicates that heat can bend a thick sheet of fully cured epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were making your project I would try the heat bending first. It probably takes longer, but that gives me more control. If trying to bend not-quite-cure epoxy, you have to open the mold before you can test the consistency of the epoxy, which is more risky IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-05-31T06:16:50.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11684" CreationDate="2023-06-02T06:16:06.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to lay out a few layers of Saran wrap, outline the bat wings and pour the epoxy on the plastic. As the wings start to harden, you can pick them up and bend them as you'd like. If you want, use foam or cardboard to make a mold of how you want them shaped and then once they are hard enough, but still pliable, you can lay them over that and they can finish drying how you want them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16987" LastActivityDate="2023-06-02T06:16:06.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2787" CreationDate="2023-06-02T06:21:17.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dollar store, or party stores, sell balloon stakes for putting the balloons in the yard. The balloon stakes are a clear (whitish) plastic and they are hollow. I pour the epoxy down those and they make nice thick epoxy rods. For a light saber I might suggest a thin hose. Either water hose or the many sizes of clear construction hoses or tubes they sell at Home Depot or Lowe's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16987" LastActivityDate="2023-06-02T06:21:17.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11675" CreationDate="2023-06-03T02:04:43.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is one approach for making paint brushes which are more environmentally-friendly than factory-made plastic handled brushes (relatively speaking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the use of such a brush is limited in scope to one of the following two applications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Making minimalist line contour drawings (e.g. a black outline of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;drawings of grass or other plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend using the spiny leaves of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yucca_glauca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;yucca glauca&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yucca_baccata&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;yucca baccata&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; as a paint-brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yCw7c.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yCw7c.gif&quot; alt=&quot;ANIMATED GIF IN WHICH ONE SPINY LEAF IS REMOVED FROM A YUUCA PLANT GROWING IN THE CITY OF AURORA, COLORADO WITHIN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAmnTm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAmnTm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PHOTOGRAPH OF YUCCA LEAF&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2pKjK.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2pKjK.gif&quot; alt=&quot;animated gif demonstrating how to paint with a yuuca leaf or other dry stiff piece of environmentally friendly alternative to a factory made paint brush&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Gzj2m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Gzj2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;complete grass background&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After completing a grassy background, foreground objects such as animals and/or people can be painted on a separate sheet of paper and glued on top of the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the images shown above, iron oxide concrete colorant was used as paint, but this post is mostly about how to make a paint-brush, not make your own paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some species of yucca have stiff leaves and other species of yucca have soft leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend not using yucca leaves if they look or feel floppy, such as the leaves of the soft-leafed spineless cane yucca or yucca gigantea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yuccas with stiff leaves (such as yucca baccata) are low-water use plants which grow easily in localities with less than 40 inches of annual rainfall or other precipitation. If you have a house, you can easily grow one in your front or backyard for a renewable supply of paint brushes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the state of Colorado, USA. I find yuccas growing wild all of the time when walking outside, but they live in California, and other places too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16829" LastActivityDate="2023-06-03T02:04:43.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-06T18:58:02.953" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my garden I have planted some rosemary and I want to make:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rosemary-smelling incense and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rosemary-flavoured vape liquid (combined with other flavours as well).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I do not know&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what process to use in order to make these liquids.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what kind of liquids to make for each case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Via asking around on Reddit and Twitch chat streams I found that I can make either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Essential oils using a carrier oil such as almond oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of alcohol/water based liquid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what kind of liquid do I need to make for each case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-06-07T07:05:00.530" LastActivityDate="2023-06-09T05:03:20.517" Title="What kind of liquid do I need for rosemary smelling incense and rosemary flavoured vape liquid?" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-06T21:36:28.797" Score="5" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't sure if this belonged here or at lifehacks, but due to the nature of the problem this stackexchange seemed the better choice. I ordered a plain piece of clothing, a poncho, online with the intention of adding my own design to it, but they sent me the wrong item. They let me keep it and just gave me a refund because the correct item is no longer in stock. That would be all well and good except I'm having trouble working with what I got. I needed a plain item but the one I was sent has a ton of rhinestones all along the edge of the garment. The rhinestone border is roughly 10 centimeters thick, goes all the way around the edge of the garment and the rhinestones are each about 2 millimeters wide with about 3 millimeters of space between them. They're shiny, but seem to be made of plastic with a metallic-looking coating as opposed to being actual metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried some of the methods I've seen online to remove them: sticking the garment in the freezer overnight, applying soap and water and roughly rubbing them together and using a steam iron. Freezing did absolutely nothing. It didn't even loosen them. The soap and water worked better, but it only managed to remove a tiny area very slowly. Just plucking them works but it's even slower. But I don't want to resort to acetone or glue removers because the harsh chemicals may damage the garment and then I still couldn't use it. With the sheer number of these things I need to get rid of there has to be a better way because otherwise this is going to take ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there a quick, easy way to remove these rhinestones without damaging the garment so I can get on with my project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17010" LastActivityDate="2023-06-07T16:56:31.363" Title="Quick and easy way to remove rhinestones?" Tags="|adhesives|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11704" CreationDate="2023-06-07T16:56:31.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rhinestones are most probably the &amp;quot;hotfix&amp;quot; kind, meaning they are coated with a thin layer of hotmelt glue on the backside. Most of the time this glue doesn't permeat the fabric but only catches the topmost layer of fibers. That's why they tend to fall off after some washing cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would try is to soak the bottom hem in boiling water and scraping the stones off with some long and sturdy implements like serving spoons or knifes or strips of wood. Please be careful not to burn yourself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, you can try melting the glue with a hot iron. The usual temperature for applying these stones is about 330°F or 120°C, which should be a mid-range or &amp;quot;synthetics&amp;quot; setting on your iron. Secure your iron upside down (hot surface facing up), cover it with a clean cotton fabric and put the poncho on top of that. After heating an area for 20 seconds, try scraping the stones off with a spoon or backside of a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help either, I'm afraid manual removal is the best option. Maybe rub two areas against each other so the stones dislodge each other? Or chuck it in a dryer together with some rubber balls. In the end you'll still have to pick individual stones from the poncho, but hopefully not every single one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-06-07T16:56:31.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11703" CreationDate="2023-06-09T05:03:20.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all: you &lt;strong&gt;should not&lt;/strong&gt; try to make vape liquid at all. This stuff gets inhaled and partially absorbed by your lungs, so you should treat it with the same consideration as a medication. I've heard of a case where someone put some regular garden herbs (unfortunately I forgot &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; herbs, but they were considered harmless cooking ingredients) into a cigarette and it landed them in hospital for 2 days. Don't put any chemicals into your body unless you understand what they do or some professional who knows about this stuff tells you that it's safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb water extracts the taste of an ingredient and oil extracts the smell of it. So if you want to extract the scent of rosemary for an aroma lamp, the usual process is to infuse a neutral carrier oil with the ingredient you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the ingredient very fine and put them into an airtight container like a glass bottle. Slightly heat the carrier oil (but only &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt;!) and pour it into the bottle with the prepared ingredients. Close the bottle and wait for 2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same process but with alcohol is used when the ingredient doesn't have a lot of oil (like vanilla or cedar wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the extraction is done, you can use the oil to scent your home by many different ways like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;putting a few drops into a scent lamp or fragrance block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sticking one or several wooden sticks into the oil to help it evaporate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mixing a small amount of isopropyl alcohol into it and letting it evaporate directly from the bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-06-09T05:03:20.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-09T22:27:55.247" Score="2" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making my own small resin jewelry pieces, using metal for framing them.  I'm using Mercola liquid glass crystal resin that is advertised as being extra strong and ultra transparent. I mixed it at a ratio of 100:55, and sometimes months after curing, I see the jewelry starting to get foggy even though I'm protecting them from substances like perfume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the resin to stay clear and not to get cloudy over time. Is there any solution for this? Maybe a varnish that keeps it clear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17031" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2023-06-12T14:17:07.083" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T05:09:10.640" Title="How to eliminate cloudiness in my cast resin pieces?" Tags="|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11712" CreationDate="2023-06-12T18:42:49.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A change after some time means there's something unreacted in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.andreoy.gr/cdn/farfuture/EHOEVUG-nFdQzDiHKFBnkvVGX08dOTcmiLJiRP0t8J4/1640594090/sites/default/files/2021-12/tds-liquid-glass-crystal-2019-en_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions&lt;/a&gt; say 100:50, and imply that's by weight. Are you weighing precisely?  An imbalance is likely to leave unreacted material. A set of 0.1g kitchen scales can be had for £/$/€10-20. But why are you using 100:55?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you mixing small quantities, thoroughly but by hand? It sounds like it's quite quick-curing, but you need thorough mixing to ensure it reacts properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the instructions say to ensure absolute dryness and even low humidity. Bringing the epoxy from somewhere cold into a humid workspace would be particularly bad. Again, water in epoxy can cause cloudiness, but that's more likely to be immediate. If you're using dyes, make sure they're the proper ones, and not introducing water. Even alcohol-based products can draw water out of the air if left open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-06-12T18:42:49.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11712" CreationDate="2023-06-13T05:09:10.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Chris H. that it's probably inaccurate mixing. Imagine 2-part epoxy like one liquid with chemical locks dissolved in it and another liquid with chemical keys in it. It only hardens if one lock reacts with one key, so for a perfect result you want the perfect number of locks and keys in your mix. If you have to many locks and too few keys in the mix (or vice versa), some part of the epoxy will remain liquid, even though the object feels hard and sturdy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So please try to mix both parts of the epoxy as closely as possible to the manufacturers instructions. Read the instructions carefully to determine whether you should measure the parts by weight or by volume, that can make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When mixing the parts together, make sure you scrape the sides and bottom of your mixing cup. Personally I find scraping the sides and bottom more important than mixing the center of the cup, because the center gets mixed automatically by that. Not mixing epoxy properly is just as bad as using a wrong ratio of the parts - you have the correct number of locks and keys in your mixture, but if they never touch they cannot harden properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some resins change color while mixing, some are clear from the beginning. It's harder to see in clear epoxies, but if you look closely, you should be able to see that the resin looks foggy when you start mixing it. It's not opaque or even whitish, it looks maybe like a wisp of steam where the 2 parts touch. Once the resin is mixed properly this fog disappears completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note: Please avoid breathing in the fumes of the epoxy when looking at it, they can can irritate and damage your airways, even if the epoxy doesn't stink. You should only mix and cure epoxy in a well ventilated room or outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T05:09:10.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2023-06-16T12:10:11.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Super glue. I have been using super glue to attach pieces of cereal box card together to make pieces of smaller structures like boxes. It sets solid in ~10 seconds. Some practice is needed to make sure that the glue isn't too close to the edges as there will be some spreading. Do around the edges and a couple of fixing spots in the middle. With the box structures I was making the edges could be sanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17063" LastActivityDate="2023-06-16T12:10:11.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11720" CreationDate="2023-06-19T07:46:44.407" Score="4" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm testing out the &lt;strong&gt;Silhouette&lt;/strong&gt; cutting machine &lt;strong&gt;Cameo 4&lt;/strong&gt; on Windows 11 from a friend by designing and trying to cut out a bunch of 1.5 inch circular logos, but after running a few tests, it seems the machine is slowly getting more and more inaccurate in the cutting outlines as it progresses to the bottom of the sheet. Here are some of the settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaEsX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaEsX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set &lt;em&gt;Feed Type&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;Manual&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Cutting Mat&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;None&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Media Size&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;A4&lt;/em&gt;. My Glossy Sticker Paper size is A4 and I'm certain that I printed it on A4 setting as well with my &lt;strong&gt;Epson L4260&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHM4N.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHM4N.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are more settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fowG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5fowG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although not perfect, it does do a good job cutting the first row. By the way is this quality expected? I would have expected it to be a bit more accurate since it has the Registration markers as guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dqy0M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dqy0M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as the cutting progresses toward the bottom, I noticed that the cut outlines slowly start shifting upward until in the last row it is totally off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndmu5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndmu5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these machines always this inaccurate or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17073" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-06-26T05:39:42.503" LastActivityDate="2023-06-26T05:42:08.693" Title="Silhouette cutting slowly shifts upward as it progresses to bottom on A4 glossy sticker paper" Tags="|cutting-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-20T03:41:41.090" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m making a large oil painting and want to use a violet hue to flood the background. I usually paint with cobalt violet and Dioxazine purple, both of which are frustratingly transparent and require several layers of application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my best options for a cool violet hue for a consistent, non-blotchy background? Willing to consider acrylic or other non-oil media for this as it won’t be mixed with anything or engage with the foreground in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9164" LastActivityDate="2023-07-18T19:19:20.840" Title="Opaque purple paint options" Tags="|acrylic-paint|oil-paint|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11717" CreationDate="2023-06-20T20:05:05.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use black gesso or other dark pigments mixed into the ground. Then the transparency of your violet/purple paints will not be trying to overcome a white background, requiring less pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not an option then mixing (more opaque) primary colors to get the purple you want is an option. Just make sure the tone (lightness) of the red and blue pigments are close (lighten the darker of the two with white) and that you match cool with cool and warm with warm to avoid muddiness. This gives you the advantage of more control and variety in the final color as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;Are you mixing the Dioxazine purple with titanium white to get your tone or using straight up and relying on its transparency to the white ground to get the tint you want? It should be strong enough to make a good tinted body color and that should give you the cover you are looking for.&#xA;ie. you may just be using your paints too thin to get any body color from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2023-07-18T19:19:20.840" LastActivityDate="2023-07-18T19:19:20.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-25T14:06:26.760" Score="3" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several coils of yellow agricultural PVC hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intention is to paint them, and to use them to represent thick high voltage cable for a prop. They will be completely static in coils, and will not be required to flex or bend. In fact this will be discouraged by fixing them in place as much as is practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are a salvaged material, and while not ideal for my purposes they are free and available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to clean them with a degreasing agent, sand the surface down lightly, clean them a second time to remove dust created by sanding, and then to paint them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any specific techniques, products, or product families that would help me to achieve a high quality result, or which should be avoided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, specific types of paint that would adhere well to a pvc surface, or which would adhere poorly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-07-29T10:04:59.067" Title="preparing and painting reclaimed PCV Hose pipe?" Tags="|material-selection|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11716" CreationDate="2023-06-26T05:42:08.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(This was originally posted by the author.)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran another test and this time I checked that the cut was perfectly parallel to the left of the page but it was not parallel to the short edges, as you can see below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I therefore concluded that the Silhouette machine is definitely the problem and would not recommend it to anyone. Case closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lP1Sg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lP1Sg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-06-26T05:42:08.693" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2023-06-26T05:42:08.693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11719" CreationDate="2023-06-27T07:29:32.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually PVC pipes and hoses are sealed to make them extra water resistant. Unfortunately that makes them harder to paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1: sanding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the hose is cleaned of any soil or obvious dirt. You need to roughen up the surface you want to paint because otherwise the paint might pool or rub off. Medium or fine grit (anywhere between 80 &amp;amp; 200) sandpaper or sanding sponges should work fine and you want to treat the surface until it's visibly less shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please wear a particle filtering mask for this step. You don't want to inhale a cloud of plastic dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2: cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to clean the sanded hoses with acetone, because it acts as a degreaser and also swells up the surface slightly, which makes it take up the paint better. The acetone needs 30 minutes to react with the PVC and you get the best results if you start painting at that time instead of waiting longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please wear gloves for this step because acetone drys out the skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3: painting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get the best results by using spray paint. The paint should say that it's &amp;quot;plastic-rated&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;rated for PVC&amp;quot; or it should list PVC as applicable material on the can. Plastic-rated spray paints contain special additives that make them bond to PVC. If your paint doesn't say it's applicable to PVC, it may not stick or rub off after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the instructions of the manufacturer (amount of shaking, spraying distance to the surface, drying time etc.) and apply a thin coat. After the first coat is dry, you can apply a second coat to achieve a higher quality result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please only use spray paint outside or wear a respirator while painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-06-27T07:29:32.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-06-30T17:08:42.707" Score="0" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Procreate on the iPad, I want to avoid getting smudges on the screen, but still want to use my fingers to zoom and pan, etc. I have tried using a Matte screen protector and it helps reduce smudges but the image quality up gets worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think the perfect solution is to use a glove that covers all 5 fingers. Of course, it has to be made from a material that allow touch detection to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't know if a tool like this exists. Can anybody enlighten me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Edit: The smudges I care about are the ones caused by the fingertips (of my index and thumb) interacting with the screen. I own 2-fingered drawing gloves and I'm using them. But since the bare skin of my thumb and index finger touches the screen, it causes smudges. Here I'm asking for a similar glove that covers all 5 of my fingers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17127" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-08-21T09:56:00.330" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T09:56:00.330" Title="(Drawing on iPad) Do they sell artist gloves that cover all 5 fingers?" Tags="|tool-selection|tool-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-01T18:28:13.420" Score="4" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQ1KN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQ1KN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This was my sons baby bracelet 30 years ago, is there any way I can soften it so I can reopen it and add a new piece of leather so it can be fastened again. Thanks everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17132" LastActivityDate="2023-08-01T13:50:39.667" Title="How to restore a 30 year old plaited leather bracelet" Tags="|restoration|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11947" CreationDate="2023-07-02T16:05:50.283" Score="5" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hardcover from Everyman's Library whose fore-edge is a concave crescent. (See first picture.) Is there a word for this effect? Second, and more importantly, how might I achieve this effect in manual bookbinding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I have added three pictures of a book I am currently working on, which is bound using a French link stitch (and kettle stitch). Is it at too late a stage to attain the desired effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chris H's comment helped me realize that the French link stitch is loose enough to push the pages back to form something like the desired effect. It then becomes a question of, first, doing something at the spine to secure this shape; and second, rounding out the sort of plateaux formed at the fore-edge by so pushing an already square-cut fore-edge into a crescent shape (see fourth picture). As regards the first question, is there a way to do this without covering the parts of the spine where stitching is apparent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5M4WQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5M4WQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Yyg2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Yyg2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZG4G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZG4G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tjf4y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tjf4y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17140" LastEditorUserId="17140" LastEditDate="2023-07-02T17:45:53.953" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T16:31:50.840" Title="In bookbinding, how to make the fore-edge form a concave crescent?" Tags="|book-binding|paper-cutter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-03T07:00:58.127" Score="2" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if there exists a kind of epoxy or resin that doesn't dry &amp;quot;hard&amp;quot;. I've seen so many of the hard variety in stores and online. The thing is, somewhere, somehow, I've gotten the idea that there is a kind that is sort of flexible, or squishy? Does such a thing exist? I really appreciate your help with this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17145" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-07-03T13:28:30.787" LastActivityDate="2023-07-14T15:35:24.913" Title="Are there epoxies or resins that do not cure hard?" Tags="|material-selection|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11729" CreationDate="2023-07-03T18:25:27.567" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grad school friend sent me a link to a painting that he liked; let me put the link and then an image.  Evidently painted circa 1963. We were not able to identify the artist or, for example, find an actual book  displaying   this.  There are letters in the lower left that resemble KYKOLNIK, but that could just be something to do with a website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh there is a big list of artists transliterated  at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_20th-century_Russian_painters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_20th-century_Russian_painters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://s00.yaplakal.com/pics/pics_preview/2/6/6/17977662.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://s00.yaplakal.com/pics/pics_preview/2/6/6/17977662.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hPG94.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hPG94.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17149" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T11:46:39.240" Title="Identify Socialist Realist painting" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2023-08-11T11:17:25.663" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-03T23:02:27.480" Score="2" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to carve a tapered recess into a piece of wood, like that of the center element in the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4iRW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4iRW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-09-04T10:31:00.030" LastActivityDate="2023-09-04T10:31:00.030" Title="How to Carve Tapered Recess into Wood" Tags="|technique-selection|woodworking|wood-carving|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10949" CreationDate="2023-07-04T06:57:19.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only need to print vector line graphics (including text), the current lowest cost solution is a pen-based plotter, commonly known in China as a &amp;quot;writing robot&amp;quot;. They are available on most e-commerce platforms, usually for no more than a two-week base salary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to print color blocks or other bitmap graphics with a certain area, I think you can only give it to a professional printery. It is often not cost-effective for individuals to customize professional printing equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17153" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T06:57:19.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11726" CreationDate="2023-07-04T11:39:47.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ural artist Nina Vasilievna Kostina (1934-2021)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;http://dianov-art.ru/2023/04/02/zhivopis-niny-kostinoj/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dianov-art.ru&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2023-07-04T11:46:39.240" LastActivityDate="2023-07-04T11:46:39.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11733" CreationDate="2023-07-05T07:16:30.007" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I though an idea for some clothes, but I want to see whether my idea is looking good or not and create the rough sketch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made some rough doodles/sketches about my idea but I want to see if this idea actually looks good. Would using paper and some sort of a doll will suffice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I switch into cheap fabric, what I actually want it to prototype it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2023-07-31T15:52:38.967" LastActivityDate="2023-08-04T12:34:21.173" Title="I have an idea for a clothing concept. How I can mock my design so I can improve it?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11730" CreationDate="2023-07-06T04:59:16.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the term &amp;quot;mockup&amp;quot; or short &amp;quot;mock&amp;quot; is what you're looking for. In fashion design it is a test version of a garment made from cheaper fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using paper for a mockup doesn't work, unless the final fabric should be stiff and inflexible like paper. You cannot see how a garment shapes itself around the body of a wearer if the material you use for the mockup cannot do that. You should use a fabric for the mockup that behaves at least mostly like the fabric you plan on using for the final garment in terms of elasticity and drape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are dress forms / dressmaker's dummies half the size of a real person. These are often used in fashion design schools to test out ideas with less fabric than would be needed for a full-sized human. However, if you go too small (like &lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;/&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt; human size or smaller) the fabric behaves differently. Drape is heavily influenced by the weight of the actual piece of fabric, so a small piece for a small mockup folds an hangs completely different from a doll than a full-sized piece from a real human.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T04:59:16.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11727" CreationDate="2023-07-06T07:22:55.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: there are tools designed for that. Here are just two random examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lcs3w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lcs3w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Spoon carving knife&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pyem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8pyem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Curved carving gouge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer is that tools alone aren't enough to produce this result. You also need the skill to use them. In modern times machines like CNC routers can help with shaping precise forms, but you also need the skill (knowledge) and tools (router bits) for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-07-06T07:22:55.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-07T01:30:28.403" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can a guillotine (AKA paper cutter) do that a bookbinder's plough can't, if anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17140" LastActivityDate="2023-07-09T12:57:13.900" Title="Advantages of a guillotine over a bookbinder's plough?" Tags="|cutting|book-binding|paper-cutter|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11723" CreationDate="2023-07-09T10:59:52.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several kinds of leather feeders, I see specialists on TV use them as the first step in restoring leather items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I myself have only used colourless shoe polish on a natural leather bag and it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your braided bracelet you have the additional problem that you can not reach part of the surfaces and will have all the different surfaces of the leather where you can reach. It might be worth it to contact a leather restorer, like in a main museum for advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watching the BBC program The Repairshop they are working on a leather case and Suzie who is the leather specialist mentions saddle soap as the first step, cleaning and feeding the leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2023-08-01T13:50:39.667" LastActivityDate="2023-08-01T13:50:39.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-09T12:09:32.453" Score="1" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under what circumstances would it be preferable to choose to cut or engrave using multiple lower powered passes rather than a single higher powered pass with a diode laser?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please presume a material that burns rather than melts (for example, cutting wood or leather, rather than ABS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="352" LastEditDate="2023-09-10T14:54:56.523" LastActivityDate="2023-09-10T14:54:56.523" Title="When would multiple low power passes of a laser be preferential to a single higher powered pass?" Tags="|cutting|tool-usage|engraving|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11740" CreationDate="2023-07-10T07:27:35.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are few possible scenarios that come to my mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fire hazard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the risk of incinerating the material is too high, because the laser needs to move slowly to cut all the way through, it's better to cut in several passes instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Melting material&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the material has the tendency to melt at the cut edges (instead of evaporating cleanly) but you need high power to cut all the way through, you can end up with unclean cuts that are wider at the top than the bottom. This is due to the top receiving more laser light and therefore more heat, which causes more melting. It might be beneficial to cut only partway through and letting the area cool down before the next pass cuts further through the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refocusing for thick material&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cutting thick material like plywood, it may be beneficial to change the focus distance of the laser between cutting the upper and lower layers. However, you must be extremely cautious not to move the material around or the next pass will cut in a different location and ruin everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my hobby-level experience with laser cutters it was always safest to cut all the way through in one pass. Every pass increases the risk of &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; going wrong, simply because there is more time and movement involved that can go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't reduce the charring of the edges, because the laser has to burn all the way through anyways. You might reduce the amount of soot that forms a shadow at the cutting edges, but only if you have any air extraction at all and that extraction is too weak to remove the soot in a single pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-09-09T19:45:16.930" LastActivityDate="2023-09-09T19:45:16.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11727" CreationDate="2023-07-10T17:15:01.737" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never tried it, but wood burning with a laser is possible, or using a square wood chisel to cut nearly straight lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We begin with a rectanguilair prism or rectangulair piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the first pass, the laser burns a 1/8 inch wide black colored line into the wood or a 1/8 inch wide steel square tipped chisel carves a shallow groove 1/4 inch wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second laser pass can be divided into three sub-paths (2.1, 2.2, 2.3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On path 2.2, the laser re-traces the original blackened line, making the original laser etching deeper after pass 2 than the etching was on pass 1.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser passes 2.1 and 2.3  makes two new lines which were no etched during pass 1.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lines, or curves, run side by side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before anything is done (on iteration zero), the entire wood surface is flat (depth zero).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between iteration 1 and iteration 2, there exists an etching path of depth 1 which is 1/4 inch wide. There is one shallow valley or groove in the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between iteration 2 and iteration 3, there exists an etching path of depth 1 which is 3/4 inch wide and there existing an etching path of depth 2 which is 1/4 inch wide. In other words we have three grooves, 2 of which are shallow and 1 of which is deep. The two shallow grooves parallel the deep groove. The deep groove has been cut twice. The two shallow grooves have only been cut once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cross section of the wood piece would look like a minature step pyramid or south american meso-American pyramid, where the ayramid I made of air or the step pyramid is the absence of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16829" LastActivityDate="2023-07-10T17:15:01.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-10T18:00:28.507" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I poured paper pulp through a sheet of fine stainless steel mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left the paper pulp out to dry in the sun for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper pulp is stuck to the steel mesh. It is as if the paper pulp is glued onto the steel mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you dry flat sheets of paper pulp in the sun while preventing the paper from sticking to the surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a barbequing accessory such as a non-stick flat black-colored flexible heat-proof mat for BBQ vegetables work better instead of fine stainless steel mesh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There exist kitchen blenders designed for fruit smoothies. Sometimes people put unwanted junk mail (paper solicitations) and water into the blender. In theory, the contents of the blender can be poured onto a flat surface and dried in the sun ☀.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make recycled paper embedded with colorful flower petals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wNHWX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photograph of paper pulp in wooden box having a stainless steel mesh bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wNHWX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photograph of paper pulp in wooden box having a stainless steel mesh bottom&quot; title=&quot;Photograph of paper pulp in wooden box having a stainless steel mesh bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16829" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2023-07-17T10:28:50.610" LastActivityDate="2023-07-17T10:28:50.610" Title="How do you prevent paper pulp from sticking to a flat surface as it dries?" Tags="|paper|flowers|papier-mache|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11725" CreationDate="2023-07-11T13:22:35.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say the short answer is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;. &amp;quot;Epoxy&amp;quot; is the name of a 2-component artificial resin that always cures hard (at least when it's mixed and cured properly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make squishy toys at home, but as far as I know there is no material involved that would be called a &amp;quot;resin&amp;quot; or even &amp;quot;epoxy&amp;quot;. There are DIY kits available online that contain all the materials you need, or you can follow various online tutorials and get the ingredients yourself. Here's just a &lt;a href=&quot;https://melscience.com/AU-en/articles/diy-squishy-recipes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;random tutorial by MEL Science&lt;/a&gt; (not affiliated) that shows 3 different recipes based on candle gel, al­gi­nate and silicone sealant. Each one has a slightly different consistency and some tear more easily than others. By searching for DIY squishies you can find countless other tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another material that comes to my mind is molding silicone. It feels similar to epoxy in that it's also a 2-component material, but chemically it's completely different. It stays elastic after it's cured and well suitable to making squishy toys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-07-11T13:22:35.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-12T00:48:46.967" Score="3" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this antique-looking dressform for my partner, but I can tell it's seen better days. It says Adjustoform on the neck, which I expect is the brand. I want to repair it as best as possible, but I don't know the first thing about dressforms, nor antique repair. What I think I might need to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steam the covering to clean it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply some sort of contact adhesive over the undercovering and re-lay the covering so that it lays flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;find a new foot for the stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any pitfalls I should watch out for, or other things I need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YT6R1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YT6R1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17195" LastActivityDate="2023-07-12T00:48:46.967" Title="How to restore antique dressform?" Tags="|tool-selection|technique-selection|restoration|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11725" CreationDate="2023-07-14T15:35:24.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various urethanes that cure to a rubberlike  consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2023-07-14T15:35:24.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-15T17:24:29.870" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for books consisting only of watercolor templates in a fixed format. These might be famous paintings or a theme-specific collection. I do not want books with explaining texts or painting on mixed media. The closest thing I found so far are postcard collections, but those are often not watercolors. Background: I have a hard time finding a motivation to paint. With such a book, I would copy them one by one (at least in theory...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17216" LastActivityDate="2023-07-15T17:24:29.870" Title="watercolor templates" Tags="|watercolor|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11754" CreationDate="2023-07-16T10:38:05.703" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanna learn to paint clouds, so I checked some tutorials and noticed that usually people highlight the top part and shade the bottom part of each &amp;quot;cotton ball&amp;quot; a cloud is constructed from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I took a picture of a real cloud and noticed that the top parts of each &amp;quot;cotton ball&amp;quot; are dark, while the bottom part is white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y28Xg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y28Xg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17224" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-08-21T10:02:00.197" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T10:02:00.197" Title="Which parts of a cumulus cloud should be highlighted?" Tags="|painting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-16T14:04:19.713" Score="2" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone, trying to be helpful, dismantled a number airbrush so that the could be cleaned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The didn't take any notes on how the parts came apart and panicked when it came time to put them back together. Which made things worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that part A goes into the base of the airbrush where the air hose is attached, part C goes in next, the way up shown on the picture, and them part B is screwed in afterward to hold them both in. I don't know where part D goes in, it seem too large even to be part of the airbrush, but it must have come from somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zWCNx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zWCNx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every airbrush of this type that we have was dismantled, so I have no examples to go on, and I don't want to dismantle one of the more expensive ones in case I can't get it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the parts appear to be part of the main air inlet valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2023-07-19T08:24:31.290" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T08:24:31.290" Title="How do I reassemble this generic airbrush based on the pictured parts?" Tags="|maintenance|airbrush|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11743" CreationDate="2023-07-17T10:28:10.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making your own paper, the frame and deckle ( = the frame with the mesh and a second frame for straight edges) is only used to lift the pulp from the vat ( = container with the paper slurry). After a short time, the fresh pulp is moved from the frame onto a flat surface where it can dry into a sheet of paper. This process is called &amp;quot;couching&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen different materials used to dry the fresh paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic sheets / cut open garbage bags&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old bed sheets, tablecloths or t-shirts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen tutorials that don't use a frame and deckle, but instead something like a metal tray or the lid of a metal box with a cloth on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some tutorials to get you started:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paperslurry.com &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paperslurry.com/2014/05/19/how-to-make-handmade-paper-from-recycled-materials/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Make Handmade Paper from Recycled Materials&lt;/a&gt; (which also links to a tutorial on how to craft your own frame and deckle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Craftaholic Witch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thecraftaholicwitch.com/how-to-make-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Make Paper&lt;/a&gt; Uses a simple plastic mesh instead of a frame and deckle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/5xrWrKIVBgo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video by NevermindPaper&lt;/a&gt; including instructions to make your own frame and deckle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/u-dgZ9HoihU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video by Vijayta Sharma&lt;/a&gt; shows how to make recycles paper without a blender or frame and deckle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-07-17T10:28:10.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11748" CreationDate="2023-07-18T05:43:56.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is never just one way to highlight an object. It always depends on where the source of light is supposed to be and what you want to express.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to paint as realistically as possible, you'll have to decide where the sun is. If it's behind you as the observer of the picture, all parts of the cloud that are most in the foreground should be highlighted because they receive the most light. If the sun is behind the canvas and therefore behind the cloud, the parts of the cloud that are furthest back should be the lightest and the parts in the foreground should be darker, just like your photo shows it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most people don't actually care for a super-realistic representation of clouds in paintings. Clouds are a means to create a certain mood. White, fluffy clouds for a light mood and dark stormy clouds for a dark mood. Red or orange clouds for a sunset scene can also create a dreamy mood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYYEu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYYEum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Gathering Point 24 x 30&amp;quot; oil on linen ©2010 Katherine Kean&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Click image for full size. &lt;a href=&quot;https://katherinekean.blogspot.com/2010/08/storm-building.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click here for image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dark clouds create a stormy mood and an impression of cold winds. The eye is drawn into the light center of the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5rwh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5rwhm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;6&amp;quot;x6&amp;quot; Mini #8 - Billowing Cloudscape Painting by Mya Bessette&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Click image for full size. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.myabessette.com/original-paintings/6x6-mini-8-billowing-cloudscape-painting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click here for image source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the dark sky the clouds create a light mood and an impression of a warm summer day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-07-18T05:43:56.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-18T08:07:49.603" Score="5" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several sheets of a plastic like material that I recovered after stripping down industrial led light banks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One type is a clear plastic like sheet, the other type is a semi opaque sheet used as a light diffuser. Neither sheet has any marking of any kind. The light banks are generic and unbranded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to paint them and use them in a craft project, the primer I use says not for use on acrylic or polystyrene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without having access to any material data sheets is the a good way to ID the above, for example burn color or hardness, or reaction to certain chemicals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an ID beyond the normal &amp;quot;paint a sample and see what happens&amp;quot;. Which I will be doing anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-07-24T14:07:11.480" Title="How do I identify if a material is acrylic or polystyrene?" Tags="|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11752" CreationDate="2023-07-18T12:40:04.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your primer tells you what solvent it's based on, you can test a sample of material with the same solvent.  One reason for not using a particular solvent with a particular plastic is that it dissolves the plastic.  But some surface etching may be desirable to improve adhesion.  Acetone, for example,  will attack most of these, dissolving polystyrene pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, or before testing with solvents, a combination of density and the softening temperature should help.  With reference to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plasticsmag.com/thermoforming.asp?fIssue=Mar/Apr-03&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this table&lt;/a&gt; (sadly only in °F), we can see that thermoplastics differ in their density (a.k.a. specific gravity) and the temperature at which they can be formed hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For materials that sink, we can use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://sciencing.com/calculate-density-water-displacement-7373751.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;water displacement method&lt;/a&gt; to work out the volume of a sample, and weigh it, to calculate the density. Water has a density of 0.997g/cm³ (to all intents and purpose, 1g/cm³). You need reasonable precision for this sort of thing - curiosity like this is one reason why I have a cheap set of 0.1g kitchen scales.  Acrylic is denser than polystyrene and ABS, but polycarbonate is denser than all 3.  HDPE will float - just about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same table has a column for lower processing temperature.  At this temperature, heated in an oven, it should be possible to bend a sheet of the material without breaking, and have it hold its shape.  You'll need a good oven thermometer or infrared thermometer, as oven thermostats aren't accurate enough.  Start cool and work hotter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately both ABS and PS soften at around 260°F (130°C).  And they have the same density.  Sheet polystyrene is rather brittle at a cool room temperature (CD jewel cases are made of PS); ABS much less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin polycarbonate bends in a springy way even down to very low temperatures.  So does acrylic, but less so. &lt;a href=&quot;https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/ductile-brittle-transition-temperature&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Another table&lt;/a&gt; this time in °C, shows temperatures below which plastic become brittle. These are rather soft boundaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic is a bit harder to scratch than polycarbonate, but without comparing to known pieces it's hard to judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were going to compare to known materials, they all tend to have distinctive smells when you saw them or heat them (not to burning, but higher than the minimum forming temperature) - but you don't want to inhale great big lungfuls of the fumes anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my guesses as to the most likely materials.  All are hydrocarbons materials, and will burn with a yellow flame and give off a fair bit of soot.  They can also have additives to make them less flammable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-07-18T12:40:04.143" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11748" CreationDate="2023-07-18T19:02:58.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; of it is that clouds, being made of tiny water vapor (or other) particles, both reflect &lt;em&gt;and transmit&lt;/em&gt; light. So in addition to the standard directional highlighting on the &amp;quot;surface&amp;quot; of the cloud there is internal reflection and retransmission of the light, ie &amp;quot;subsurface scattering&amp;quot;. The clouds become self-illuminating and thereby self-shadowing depending on how that light is bouncing around. It is why they are so amazing looking and do not render quite as simply as actual balls of cotton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clouds can take on a huge variety of appearances depending on their altitude, their positional relationship to where the sun or moon or whatever light source may be illuminating them, the density of the air, etc. As far as capturing that complex play of light and shadow you are starting with the right approach: careful observation. Next start experimenting with different techniques (material, shading, form) to express what you have observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2023-07-18T19:02:58.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11722" CreationDate="2023-07-18T19:34:51.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They were not called &amp;quot;artist's gloves&amp;quot; but I did pick up a cheap pair of five fingered gloves that supported touch screen capacitance at a local hardware store, so yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2023-07-18T19:34:51.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11757" CreationDate="2023-07-19T02:55:19.957" Score="2" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project where I need to cut a large number of a complex shape into some papyrus paper (about 100-200 sheets.) The shape is quite intricate, and I'm not sure of the best approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/14790/cutting-a-stack-of-paper-into-a-shape-with-a-router/14793#14793&quot;&gt;discussed on the woodworking forum&lt;/a&gt; (who suggested I migrate to here) that I could use a two duplicate wooden or metal templates, then clamp the papyrus sheets between then and run round the edge with a router. They seemed to think I would not get a good finish.&#xA;Does anyone have a suggestion how best to do this? Preferably without great expense. The shape is roughly rectangular (with lots of rough bumps and indents around the edge) and about 8.25&amp;quot; x 7&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each item can have slightly rough edges, and they don't need to all be absolutely identical but reasonably close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the outline I am trying to cut:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVL3n.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVL3n.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17237" LastEditorUserId="17237" LastEditDate="2023-07-19T15:54:58.833" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T14:48:02.213" Title="Cutting a stack of paper into a complex shape (got to make a LOT of these)" Tags="|papercutting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11756" CreationDate="2023-07-19T11:07:57.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lowest cost realistic option I can think of is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a piece of aluminium sheet around 2mm thick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;print a paper template, and stick it to the aluminium.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp the aluminium between 2 sturdy wooden boards, with one side just sticking out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a hacksaw, needle files, and maybe a drill or tin snips for rough removal (depending on what you have available) work the sheet down to the shape you want, one edge at a time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smooth over the edges with a needle file or (better) fine wet/dry sandpaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a craft scalpel (X-Acto knife) cut round the template.  Use a proper cutting mat.  You might get away with doing 2 or 3 sheets at once, maybe only one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've made the template, it will probably only take a couple of minutes per sheet to cut them once you get your hand in.  That's roughly 3-4 hours, plus the time to make the template.  Less than a day in total, but I suggest that the hand-cutting is best done in fairly short sessions to avoid hand-fatigue leading to mistakes. It takes a surprising amount of effort to hold down a template like this and cut cleanly in one pass. Clamping it to the work surface would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shopping list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminium sheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plywood sheet (a good use for offcuts/scrap) *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hacksaw *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;File(s) *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet/dry sandpaper *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fine craft knife * and plenty of spare blades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting mat large enough for the workpiece *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamps *&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Items marked * are quite likely to be present in a basic home workshop, like mine, or useful for future craft projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-07-19T11:07:57.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11756" CreationDate="2023-07-20T04:59:33.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that papyrus can be laser cut. However, if the sheets aren't perfectly flat, they may not cut cleanly because they get out of the laser focus point. You can cut several sheets at once (if you can get them to lay flat), but the lowest sheets may not cut all the way through. The process will create a lot of soot that makes the sheets smell burned for a week or two and it can leave a brown residue next to the cut edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea that is kind of similar to the router: Clamp 10 - 20 sheets of papyrus between 2 metal or sturdy wood templates. You need to clamp them really tight with many clamps all around the edge. Or have one central clamp and 2 clamps that you move along the edge as you work. Then apply a wire brush (either handheld or machine) around the edges of the template. Papyrus should be brittle enough that it breaks away at the edge of the template.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another idea: Clamp a stack of papyrus sheets together and use a wood chisel to cut the edge. Place the stack on a cutting mat or some soft wood you don't need anymore. Then position the chisel so it's facing straight down and gently tap it with a light hammer until it cut through all layers. Reposition the chisel until you're all the way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of this method is that you don't need a precise metal or wood template, but the disadvantage is that the precision of the cuts depend on the size of the chisel. It may not look very natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-07-20T07:02:43.987" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T07:02:43.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-20T15:35:41.577" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this chair in many places, for instance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as sold in Brazil (under the name &amp;quot;Old Jones&amp;quot;):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KiDUF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KiDUF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9O1iK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9O1iK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as sold in UK (&amp;quot;Butler Milo Iron &amp;amp; Leather Accent Chair&amp;quot;):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tw4X2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tw4X2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(there are other places as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like a fairly common design, though I can't find who invented it not when nor what it was named.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to describe it briefly: an iron hoop at - maybe - 45º, with leather stapled over/around the upper and lower sections of it (though not always a single piece of leather), raised from the floor by hairpin legs (the same iron thickness of the iron hoop); the leather pieces are kept streched by another part of the iron structure that lies beneath the hoop; all the iron structure is painted (usually black) and are mostly naked (the only covered parts are the upper and lower sections of the hoop); particularily the naked sections of the hoop serve as armrests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I can't create tags yet, but I would like to tag it &amp;quot;design-identification&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;designer-identification&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;chair&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;armchair&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;furniture&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17247" LastActivityDate="2023-07-24T11:19:58.977" Title="What's this chair design name?" Tags="|technique-identification|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2023-08-11T11:16:38.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11761" CreationDate="2023-07-21T02:52:41.107" Score="3" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found this beautiful star, but nowhere a guide how to fold it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t want to disassemble it as it is a decoration at a local café.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would someone help me to identify how is it called and more importantly, how to fold it? I guess we need 3-4 pieces of rectangular paper and the star completes once the parts are put together, but it’s my wild guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WMHBzm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WMHBzm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l5HJtm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l5HJtm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRZgWm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRZgWm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WtCc6m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WtCc6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17248" LastActivityDate="2023-07-21T14:37:57.830" Title="How to make this 3D star with folded edges?" Tags="|origami|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11760" CreationDate="2023-07-21T14:37:57.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This shape is called the &amp;quot;origami omega star&amp;quot;. It is folded from 6 equal pieces of paper. The folding itself is not too complicated, but the assembly is quite hard to understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/xKmgqv8N3-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;just one video manual&lt;/a&gt;, you can find many more when searching for the correct name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-07-21T14:37:57.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11759" CreationDate="2023-07-24T11:19:58.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a little research, I found what may be the origin of the design, based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raymond_Loewy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raymond Loewy&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;https://penccil.com/museum.php?p=853008315981&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hoop Chair&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAtWx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAtWx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastActivityDate="2023-07-24T11:19:58.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-25T04:56:06.680" Score="3" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a producer of wooden &lt;a href=&quot;https://canelaza.com/walking-canes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;canes&lt;/a&gt;, but some of my customers have complained about the loose and insecure connection between wood and copper/brass. I want to address this issue and achieve a strong and reliable bond between wood and copper/brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you provide guidance or tips on achieving a durable and dependable bond between wood and copper/brass for my wooden stick production?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgFIp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rgFIp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17270" LastActivityDate="2023-08-05T11:45:39.160" Title="How can I achieve a strong and reliable bond between wood and copper/brass for my wooden stick production?" Tags="|wood|woodworking|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-07-28T19:32:05.913" Score="3" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project where I need to blacken some steel components to a matched finish, including a length of steel chain. I am using Jax Iron, Steel and Nickle Blackener: &lt;a href=&quot;https://jaxchemical.com/shop/jax-iron-steel-nickel-blackener/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://jaxchemical.com/shop/jax-iron-steel-nickel-blackener/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually with this product I follow up with a Rustoleum spray on enamel coat to prevent rust immediately after drying from the blackening process. This has always worked well for me. However I am wondering if this is feasible for chain, since the proximity of the links will prevent the enamel from reaching all surfaces, and the friction between the links when moving seems like it would take the enamel off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I go about rust proofing the length of chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2023-08-30T17:48:34.227" Title="How to properly blacken and rust protect steel chain?" Tags="|metal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11773" CreationDate="2023-07-29T00:11:50.947" Score="3" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago I made this bookmark for my son:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9tfP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9tfP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it is fraying at the edges from use. (Not visible is a backing of 14 count aida that is held to the front with white back-stitching. In retrospect, this was not a good decision.) I would like to preserve/repair this bookmark somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial idea is to remove the backing and use a fabric adhesive to affix the bookmark to heavy white card stock. Of course, this approach won't fix the edges, which I will have to just trim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if you all have any other ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16081" LastActivityDate="2023-08-01T10:12:16.707" Title="How to repair a cross-stitched bookmark" Tags="|cross-stitch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11769" CreationDate="2023-07-30T07:40:09.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My approach would be this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the backing by carefully taking out the backstitches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would use a thick, non-woven iron-on interfacing on the backside. If you only have thin interfacing available (that's the standard), apply 2 layers. Put a piece of baking paper on your ironing board, lay the bookmark on top, front facing down. Lay a piece of interfacing on top (glue facing down) that is bigger than the bookmark but smaller than the baking paper. Pre-heat your iron to the temperature recommended by the interfacing and press it down hard on the stack without moving it around. Let the stack cool flat on the board or it may permanently bend. You can force it flat by putting a heavy object on top while it cools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trim the interfacing to the exact edge of the bookmark. Trim all lose threads from the damaged edge at this step as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want, you can add a new layer of fabric for the backing. Make sure all edges of the backing fabric are turned inwards to avoid fraying. Personally, I would hold it in place with a few temporary stitches instead of fabric glue. Glue has a tendency to seep through the fabric and cause spots of discoloration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repair and secure the edge by stitching around it and through the interfacing and backing fabric with a yarn that resembles the one used in the cross stitching. Personally, I would stitch over the entire white edge to cover it with a new edge. I recommend a blanket stitch stitched so close together that the strands of yarn lay side by side (to hide the damaged edge). You can also use a buttonhole stitch to reinforce the edge. There are also more decorative variatins of the blanket stitch, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/TXTgMq4LLhc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as shown in this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you need to fold the edge of fabric over to finish it without fraying. Since this is not possible here, the iron-on interfacing is added to give the stitches a foundation. Since interfacing is usually not woven, it doesn't fray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-08-01T10:12:16.707" LastActivityDate="2023-08-01T10:12:16.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11775" CreationDate="2023-07-31T10:21:59.267" Score="4" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a man's wedding band (from a wedding long ago) that I want to give to a friend who is getting married. The ring is gold with a center band of a silver color, but I don't know what the material is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the silver band is quite hard to distinguish so it looks like a simple gold ring until you look closely. My vague recollection is that the band is made of white gold, but I really can't remember. Is this something that a jeweler could determine quickly? Is it expensive to test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason we want to know is that this friend does physical work and it's important that in an emergency it would be possible to cut the ring off. He's worried that if it's titanium it could be hard to cut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17302" LastEditorUserId="1120" LastEditDate="2023-07-31T21:44:36.540" LastActivityDate="2023-08-01T10:39:04.417" Title="How can I tell what a silver band on a gold ring is made of?" Tags="|material-identification|jewelry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11774" CreationDate="2023-07-31T11:46:58.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are any scratches on it, that should provide a route to a identification. White gold will scratch similarly to gold (it's at most a little harder) while base metals used in jewellery are much harder. An existing scratch that crosses the stripe, if consistent across it, would indicate white gold. If the middle band is exposed on the inside, you could even scratch it lightly - try a sharpened piece of copper wire, or brass, to start with, as they're harder than gold but softer than anything worrying. See&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.jewelrynotes.com/the-mohs-scale-of-hardness-for-metals-why-it-is-important/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moh's scale for relevant metals&lt;/a&gt; - basically a bigger number can scratch a smaller number on this scale. Values for white gold are &lt;a href=&quot;https://reflectivejewelry.com/ethical-sources/comparative-hardness-of-white-metal-wedding-and-engagement-rings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, you don't need a positive ID, just to know it could be cut in an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, a valuation for insurance purposes should need to know whether it's white gold, silver, or base metal. That might provide a route to getting an expert to have a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-07-31T11:46:58.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11774" CreationDate="2023-07-31T14:02:32.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a jeweler or dealer around you that specializes in buying old gold, they should have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Touchstone_(assaying_tool)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;touchstone&lt;/a&gt;. That is a black, smooth stone on which gold objects leave a line if you rub them on it without visibly damaging the objects. Most jewelers use such a stone to determine the purity of the gold (based on the color of the lines), but for you it would be enough to see if the ring leaves a line at all that is typical for gold. An experienced jeweler or dealer should be able to tell you if the material is gold or not in a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSw9w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSw9w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As discussed in the comments, a touchstone works by utilizing the relative hardness of the materials (stone and jewelry). Even if the stone cannot tell you exactly what the silver material is, it can tell you whether it's soft enough to be as easily cut as gold in an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-08-01T10:39:04.417" LastActivityDate="2023-08-01T10:39:04.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11765" CreationDate="2023-08-05T11:45:39.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stock answer is to increase surface contact area. For example, marrying to flush surfaces is inefficient as it allows for little protection against sheer stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple solution would be to drill a hole in both surfaces, and tap them for a screw thread. Glue a threaded rod into the wooden part using epoxy or two part resin, and then simply screw the metal part on to the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-08-05T11:45:39.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11681" CreationDate="2023-08-05T17:35:00.063" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like tunisian crochet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7swrVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7swrVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an article about how to get started with it &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.purlsoho.com/create/tunisian-crochet-basics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.purlsoho.com/create/tunisian-crochet-basics/&lt;/a&gt;.  Cotton seems to be the most common type of yarn for handbags.  I'd recommend a cotton cord yarn for extra durability and to show off the stitch texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17314" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-08-08T05:29:00.330" LastActivityDate="2023-08-08T05:29:00.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-06T17:41:39.927" Score="2" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a project where I'd like to suspend several objects in a 12&amp;quot; x 12&amp;quot; x 12&amp;quot; clear rubber cube. This is meant to be an art object, so longterm durability is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In researching casting rubber options, it seems like a lot of the nicer more durable options are meant for smaller volumes, and are cost prohibitive at this scale. Meanwhile the more affordable options mention that they'll decay over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple I've been looking at that seem representative of the options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Urethane casting rubber, durable but expensive: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.smooth-on.com/products/clear-flex-30/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.smooth-on.com/products/clear-flex-30/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Latex, cheap but will decay: &lt;a href=&quot;https://douglasandsturgess.com/products/latex-10-clear-5-gal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://douglasandsturgess.com/products/latex-10-clear-5-gal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another option I could look into, or some way of combining these materials?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of maybe making a 10&amp;quot;x10&amp;quot;x10&amp;quot; latex cube and then surrounding the outside with urethane. Would that be viable and prevent decay over time? Or is there another material I can check out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2023-08-06T17:41:39.927" Title="Best Material(s) for Casting Large Volume Clear Rubber Object" Tags="|material-selection|casting|rubber|material-sourcing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-07T15:44:39.450" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if collagen / agar gelatin can be used as an inexpensive material to suspend objects in, like casting rubber. In the application I have in mind the gelatin will in a fully sealed container, not exposed to air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will gelatin decay under these conditions? Is there a difference between the collagen and agar in this regard that would make one a better option than the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T05:57:54.867" Title="Does collagen / agar gelatin decay if not exposed to air?" Tags="|material-selection|preservation|casting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11784" CreationDate="2023-08-08T09:37:41.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most widely spread collagen material that could do what you want is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gelatin + glycerin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also known as ballistic gel and often used to make molds for chocolate or fondant. For a hard, rubbery consistency mix 2 parts glycerin and 1 part water (by volume), dissolve 2 parts gelatin in it and heat the mixture to melt it. You might want to add an fungizid to avoid mould. Don't boil it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative recipe for 7,5 liters of a long-lasting ballistic gel by the German channel &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/mlBp9YPiVhM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hunting-Gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1215 g ground gelatin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3750 ml destilled water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1875 ml glycerin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1875 ml isopropyl alcohol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a softer consistency, add more liquid in the given ratio. The finished mixture can be melted again and again. Gelatin has a yellowish-brown color and is translucent, but not transparent. There are some special products that promise a glass-clear gelatin that are worth trying out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to several sources this gel can last more than a year when stored in the fridge. If it's sealed in a container the alcohol should be sealed in as well, hindering the growth of mould and bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/eVrgxPXr9xU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video tutorial on YouTube&lt;/a&gt; by Lovecraftforever&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.observationsblog.com/sciencetechnologyexperiments/reusable-molding-material-homemade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chemical explanation and a slightly more complicated, weight-based recipe&lt;/a&gt; by observationsblog.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Agar-Agar&lt;/strong&gt; also forms a gel, but it has a consistency that I would describe as &amp;quot;brittle&amp;quot;. The worst property of agar gel (for your application) is that microorganisms &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; like to grow on this stuff. That's why it's used in laboratories as culture medium. I would rule it out for a long-term project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other materials&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &amp;quot;molecular kitchen&amp;quot; settings we also find sodium alginate, which forms a gel shell around a liquid. I'm not sure you could even create a big, uniform block of sodium alginate gel, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iota Carrageenan and Kappa Carrageenan are usually used in the kitchen to gel dairy products. Iota Carrageenan forms elastic gels like gelatine, but Kappa Carrageenan forms a brittle gel like Agar-Agar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methylcellulose only forms a gel when heated and returns to a liquid state when it cools down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are collagens of diverse sources that are usually only used in laboratory settings. The technical term is &amp;quot;collagen hydrogel&amp;quot; and it seems to be a field of study on it's own. I'm not sure how applicable these materials are for your scenario, but you'll get a ton of results when searching for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazingfoodmadeeasy.com/info/modernist-techniques/more/gelification-technique&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An interesting list of food-grade gels&lt;/a&gt; can be found in the Amazing Food Made Easy blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-08-09T05:57:54.867" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T05:57:54.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11815" CreationDate="2023-08-10T10:21:42.870" Score="3" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Pfaff 360. I've used sewing machines before, but this is the first I've actually owned and I don't recall this being an issue I've noticed. I believe I have the tension settings correct (based on the &amp;quot;dangling bobbin&amp;quot; test, and adjusting the upper dial), but it looks like straight stitches are slightly slanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPc74.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPc74.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Straight stitch showing slanted thread&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The needle entry points look OK, so I don't think this is an issue with one of the zig-zag cams being engaged by mistake. For example here I've just run some fabric through to puncture it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1Q95.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1Q95.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;needle entry pattern&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my accuracy in sewing a straight line/fabric stretch aside this looks like random jitter to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also read that this can be caused by torsion in the thread, which is just some Gütermann polyester. But I wondered if I have some remaining tension issues. I wouldn't say the stitches are obviously loose and with different top thread/bobbin colours they're well separated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a GIF - it does look like the needle is coming down slightly at an angle, but it's hard to really tell if this is an optical illusion or not (I'll get a video with less shaky cam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPfwC.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rPfwC.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDrnh.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qDrnh.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17352" LastEditorUserId="17352" LastEditDate="2023-08-10T11:09:50.990" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T10:50:26.487" Title="Pfaff 360 straight stitches are slightly slanted?" Tags="|sewing-machine|thread|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11788" CreationDate="2023-08-10T14:15:18.677" Score="2" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Satin is notoriously difficult to work with, from puckering to fraying, from slipping to sliding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interfacing a fabric often allows for more structure, and often makes for an easier time sewing with said fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately these satin and interfacing don't combine well. Iron-on interfacing often requires an iron-setting of two dots, with satin only allowing ironing at a single dot heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can one best 'stabilize' satin to make it easier to work with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastActivityDate="2023-12-31T09:50:20.997" Title="How can one interface satin?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11787" CreationDate="2023-08-10T14:26:10.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple: &lt;strong&gt;You use sew-in interfacing&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all interfacing requires an iron; a very wide range of sew-in options exist and can be used with satin to give the completed garment more structure. Do note that &lt;strong&gt;the purpose of interfacing is to provide structure, not to make fabric easier to handle&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you're looking for a way to stiffen the fabric while working with it&lt;/strong&gt;, but maintain the usual structure of satin in the completed garment, you can try using a washable glue or starch, or sewing/gluing a bit of wash-a-way embroidery stabilizer in place; these will be removed by washing the garment, leaving you with only satin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also sandwich your seams between pieces of wash-a-way to help guide it through the machine without slipping, and using sewing clips instead of pins to hold your pieces together. Wash-a-way is very easily removed, and clips won't contribute to puckering or fraying while providing a greater area of contact with the fabric for stabilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2023-08-10T14:26:10.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-10T14:56:05.870" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jerseys often get baggier over time. Their knitted material however makes me hesitant to even attempt to tailor them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming we're talking about factory-produced knitted jerseys, what is the best way to tailor the width of such jerseys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I assume that home-made jerseys might best be unraveled and knitted again)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, here is a standard looking factory knitted jersey in an image from Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/irlVc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/irlVc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Jersey&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastEditorUserId="17355" LastEditDate="2023-08-12T04:09:12.277" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T10:39:30.083" Title="How to tailor jerseys?" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-13T22:34:45.773" Score="3" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I am working on a project where I am mounting a speaker in an acrylic sphere. To do this I am got an acrylic sphere with a pre cut hole online, then cut tabs into the edges of the hole using a dremel, then attempted to carefully bend the tabs flat using a heat gun and pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result was messy, the sphere quickly started deforming in other parts, and the piece ended up ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that this is a sphere and I can't just back the piece with wood as is recommended in online tutorials, how can I bend down the tabs without deforming the main structure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of what I'm trying to accomplish (similar speaker mounting method with bent tabs in a metal sphere):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGheC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGheC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the deformation I got on my first attempt with acrylic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxixs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cxixs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2023-08-15T06:40:07.260" Title="How to Bend Tabs in Acrylic Sphere without Deforming" Tags="|acrylic-glass|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11790" CreationDate="2023-08-13T23:29:22.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's less risky than a heat gun, but a method using nichrome wire may provide a solution. Create a circle of the wire with a means to ensure the loop does not short against itself. Placing the wire on the bend locations will create localized heating, certainly more localized than the heat gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wire will mar the surface at the bend point, but I suspect that any method will create some distortions. By adjusting the power applied to the nichrome wire, you can regulate the speed of heating and bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also may get away with creating an analog to a whisk with a single loop, using the nichrome wire. Make the loop flat bottomed and apply it to each tab in turn. This also creates an even more localized, more easily controlled heat source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pushing this method in a different direction, a block of metal (copper?) carved to a shape to match the tab can be heated externally and applied to each tab in turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For either of these &amp;quot;single tab&amp;quot; approaches, consider to alternate bending with not-bending, to keep the heat from the succeeding bend migrating back to the already hot, previously bent tab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-08-13T23:29:22.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11786" CreationDate="2023-08-14T03:44:55.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried changing the needle. Sometimes even a slight bend in the needle could do this. Always try the more simple fixes before moving towards paying out of pocket to get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17371" LastActivityDate="2023-08-14T03:44:55.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11789" CreationDate="2023-08-14T05:58:01.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sewing jersey is not as easy as sewing woven fabrics and should be avoided by a beginner sewist. When using Jersey or any knit fabric to make your own clothing, it should be treated almost like any other fabric. However, the quality of the fabric and how you treat it (especially when washing it) influences how well it keeps its shape or how quickly it becomes baggy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make your own sewing pattern from your individual measurements, remember to add some width to make the garment comfortable. Thick knits like in the picture above should not be skin tight! If you use a commercial pattern, compare the actual measurement of the waist (of the front + back piece) with your own waist measurement and make sure it will fit you comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cutting the fabric, lay it flat on an even surface. I highly recommend a big table with a smooth surface, but sometimes the floor is the only available space. Try to lay the fabric out as relaxed as possible, meaning you shouldn't stretch any side. But you also shouldn't bunch the fabric up because then your pieces will be bigger than intended. Make sure your fabric isn't pulled in any direction by gravity or any objects. If the fabric is skewed in this stage, the finished garment will be wonky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marking knit fabrics is difficult because you can easily stretch them while doing so. Most tailors chalk I used requires too much pressure to leave a line. There are chalk rollers, water-soluble pens and heat-erasing pens you could use. If nothing else works for you, there's still the good old method of marking your pattern with tailor's tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use a special jersey needle when sewing the pieces and try not to stretch them while sewing. I suggest using lots of pins or clips to ensure nothing can slip around. Handle cut pieces delicately because they might start unraveling. All raw edges should be overlocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, once you have your finished garment, you want to keep it in pristine shape as long as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your knit fabric is actually made from wool, you must either hand wash it or use a wool cycle on your washing machine. You should also use a special wool detergent because regular detergents make wool itchy. Wool must not be put in a dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would avoid tumble dryers for any heavy knit fabrics. The tumbling damages the fibers and the constant pushing and pulling of other clothing items in there can make the garment baggy. However, thick sweaters also shouldn't be hung up to dry. The water still in them makes them heavy and permanently stretches them. I usually lay my sweaters flat on top of the drying rack (over the other stuff that hangs there to dry). For wool sweaters it's recommended to lay them flat on a towel to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-08-14T05:58:01.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11790" CreationDate="2023-08-15T06:35:43.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be almost impossible to bend those tabs in acrylic cleanly to get a professional-looking result, at least without a lot of specialized tooling, and some sacrificial samples to experiment and practice on. However, there's a much simpler approach that would yield good results. Instead of bending tabs to create a mounting, create a separate mounting disk from flat stock and chemically weld it to the sphere hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mounting would be simple to cut from a flat piece with a circle cutting jig. Cut a circle the size needed for mounting, then a concentric hole for the speaker, leaving a mounting rim. You can polish the outer edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've ordered the spheres with the hole sized to allow making tabs, you can enlarge the hole. Place the precut hole against a flat surface, and then cut off an additional slice the appropriate distance from the surface. You could use a band saw, or even a Dremel tool in a jig. Use appropriate speed and precautions to avoid melting the acrylic. Sand the cut edge smooth and flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sphere hole should then mate tightly with the flat surface of the mounting disc. Put the pieces against each other and chemically weld them, which is how virtually all acrylic components are assembled. Inexpensive kits are readily available containing a small bottle of welding solvent and a capillary application tool. You put the pieces together, then run the application tool along the joint and the solvent wicks into the joint, welding them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-08-15T06:35:43.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11790" CreationDate="2023-08-15T06:40:07.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working with the opening upwards, fill the sphere with water to just below the bend line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to seal any hole in the bottom temporarily. The water will keep the plastic coolenough that it doesn't deform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when using the heat gun, shield the plastic you don't want to heat. Plywood scraps can be assembled to form a slot, which will be very helpful. The sphere can be wrapped in  cotton or slightly loosely in aluminium foil to protect the outside from overheating. Holding the tab in something wide and flat while you bend it is a good idea. Plywood again, attached to the jaws of pliers, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to heat fairly slowly, to allow the heat to soak through to the inner face, especially with the water nearby. But alternating heating the outside through a slot and the inside with a deflector should help. If your heat gun has a curved metal deflector to go round pipes etc. that may be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-08-15T06:40:07.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-15T11:24:55.820" Score="4" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this black belt for pretty much a year now and it has started tearing at the hole that I am always using. Is this fixable or do I just need to buy a better quality belt? Also, if it isn't worth the money and time to fix it, what can I do with it, and how do I dispose of it properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past 3 years, I have changed two black belts because they all have the same issue. It becomes kind of annoying to go to the shop every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDuOG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of tearing on the back side of a belt&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDuOG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of tearing on the back side of a belt&quot; title=&quot;Photo of tearing on the back side of a belt&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17381" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2023-08-16T13:38:28.750" LastActivityDate="2023-09-03T15:02:57.833" Title="Can I fix this issue with my belt?" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11796" CreationDate="2023-08-16T06:23:27.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only had that happen on quite cheap belts, made from some sort of processed leather product laminated onto a backing layer. It's not repairable; a repair would have to be cosmetic, flexible, and strong and nothing can do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen this with solid leather, but most of my belts are fabric or webbing. They last well too. So does the one I made from a bike tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-08-16T06:23:27.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11809" CreationDate="2023-08-18T12:56:28.533" Score="2" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make multiple small doodles of baby pandas on my new hydroflask. But I'm afraid if I choose a wrong tool to do it, the dishwasher may spoil it. Can you please advice on the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of paint to use to keep it dishwasher-safe?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If markers or marker-pens are better than paints, what type/brand should I look for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will decoupage glue that I use as varnish keep the bottle from getting ruined in dishwasher?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12246" LastActivityDate="2023-08-27T12:49:38.283" Title="Painting/doodling on my white Hydroflask" Tags="|material-selection|paint|tool-selection|varnish|markers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-19T06:55:35.480" Score="3" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make my friends, who own a clothing boutique, some custom silicone wristlets. I can’t find exactly what I’m looking for and would love to add their name or something or the such to an individual bead in said wristlet. I’ve researched and researched and have come up with zero ideas on how to do that. Would hydrodipping work? Like print tiny images from a printer onto hydro paper and dip each individual bead? I’m not a business and only want to make this special gift for two special ladies. Anybody know how I could accomplish this or have any ideas I could try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17399" LastEditorUserId="221" LastEditDate="2023-08-21T04:47:51.680" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T04:47:51.680" Title="How can I add my own images to silicone beads?" Tags="|beads|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-20T19:19:23.777" Score="3" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to carve the book side texture shown on this wooden carving of a small book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mD9NV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mD9NV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;book side texture screenshot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but on the sides of pinewood box measuring 14 x 9cm x 4cm. This is the area I wish to carve on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3miW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3miW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;surface to carve texture on&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not a woodcarver and am unsure what will be needed. I think I need a 1/4 V tool to achieve the effect but am very unsure. Don't want to end up purchasing expensive tools i might not need. Also, the wood on the outside isn't very thick so I don't want to end up accidentally creating a hole and damage the surface I'm working on. Would appreciate and be very grateful if anyone could offer me a quick tutorial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17406" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-08-21T07:54:53.220" LastActivityDate="2023-11-25T13:08:15.483" Title="How to carve a side texture of a book on a wooden box?" Tags="|wood|woodworking|wood-carving|carving|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2023-08-21T05:35:25.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of your book and the size of the groves you want to add there are different tools you can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wire brush&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make the natural grain of the wood more defined by running a wire brush along the surface several times. Always drag the brush from one corner to the other one to avoid unevenes in the structure. Wire brushes come in different hardneses and the harder your brush is, the more defined the structure becomes. I only ever used a hand wire brush for this technique and I suspect a rotary tool doesn't work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test on a waste piece how the wood reacts to this treatment. In general this creates a very fine texture like natural wood grain. If there are areas of softer and harder wood, the texture will be uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hacksaw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could simply saw some very shallow lines into the wood with a hacksaw. I'm thinking about 1mm depth, so it's basically just &amp;quot;drawing a line&amp;quot; instead of actually sawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage is that you might create a lot of splinters and it's hard to create an even line over the whole length of wood. Mos of the time the cut is deeper at the edges than in the middle of the wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X-acto knife / crafting scalpel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can create fine lines by dragging the tip over the wood. In the first pass, slant the knife to one side and in the second pass slant it to the other side. The result is a narrow V-shaped groove. You can see a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Ve-jVpUIE-E?feature=shared&amp;amp;t=322&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very short tutorial on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of this method is that you can create thick and thin lines and either very exact and parallel lines or lightly uneven lines with the same tool, depending on how much you slant it and how straight you cut the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nail or other sharp object&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drag the tip of a nail or similar sharp point over the wood. The advantage of this method is that you can use a ruler to make the lines straight. It also creates a rougher texture than the wire brush, which might suit a big object better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from a nail (that might need sharpening) you can probably also use the tip of a screw, the edge of a hacksaw blade or metal ruler or other hard edges you find in your workshop. Again, try it on a waste piece of wood to see how your individual tool works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;V-shaped file&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may already have one lying around, but it may not be long enough for your book. Just file some shallow grooves into the wood. Pretty self-explanatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whatever you can find lying around&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are countless other methods you could use. Look around at what objects you already have and experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T05:35:25.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11804" CreationDate="2023-08-21T15:25:56.803" Score="5" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to stain a light-blue shirt to make it appear as I had been sweating a lot as naturally as possible without, you know, actually sweating in it.&#xA;The end product is to be used in a cosplay event where I chose to appear as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMldOiiG1Ko&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steve Ballmer during his iconic speech from 2000s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I considered dyeing the shirt but I am afraid that it wouldn't look genuine enough from up close. I am also curious if this can be done with a cheap enough material that is readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17412" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T22:31:35.277" Title="How can I stain a shirt to make it look wet" Tags="|fabric|staining|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11802" CreationDate="2023-08-21T21:07:22.313" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wet with cooking oil looks a lot like wet with water (coincidentally I got oil on a light blue shirt recently, and only realised it wasn't water when it didn't evaporate), but I doubt it would be comfortable. There's also the risk of transferring the oil to other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't going to propose it as an answer, but it would look very effective, and people wear seriously uncomfortable costumes. You'd need very little oil, probably best applied by wetting a piece of scrap fabric the right shape, wringing it out then letting it soak into the shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T21:07:22.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11802" CreationDate="2023-08-21T22:31:35.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In lieu of dye, consider &lt;strong&gt;inks&lt;/strong&gt;. They'll spread like liquid (because they are) and will penetrate the fabric very well. Once dry, they're fairly stable, and can be set to make them more stable and less likely to stain you or other clothing, spread, transfer to others, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google has a wealth of tutorials on various inks you can purchase, as well as ways to &amp;quot;make your own&amp;quot; using combinations of dye and isopropyl alcohol; I would recommend getting two base shirts and using one to experiment with multiple processes from multiple different tutorials. Be sure to test how well it spreads, how &amp;quot;realistic&amp;quot; it looks, how difficult it is to transfer to other materials (fabric, skin, hard surfaces, etc), and how well it holds up to being washed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making sure the process you choose is stable is extremely important; historically in cosplay events, there have been major issues caused by individuals using materials (body paints, fake blood, spray-in hair color, etc) that was not stable, and caused damage to the event facility (as well as other people's clothing and costumes) as a result. Many events now have rules about what you are and are not allowed to use, and if you use something that transfers to, for example, a chair you're sitting in or another person's clothing, you may be asked to remove the costume or even leave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2023-08-21T22:31:35.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11756" CreationDate="2023-08-26T13:52:35.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be the kind of project that would be best completed using an automated cutting machine, such as a Cricut or Silhouette. You can feed in your outline as a PNG or Vector, and once you've calibrated it for your material it's just a matter keeping it filled with paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purchasing or leasing one may be an expensive option for a single project, but if you are doing this on a regular basis a used machine might expand your crafting capabilities for future products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local maker space may have one, or you may be able to find an online service that will allow you to upload your design and cut them on a pay per sheet basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2023-08-28T14:48:02.213" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T14:48:02.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11819" CreationDate="2023-08-26T16:48:55.487" Score="4" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a large candle and when the wick ran out there was a small hole with still a lot of wax around it.&#xA;So I melted it down to make other little candles. I purchased a wick but am having trouble making it stiff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the procedure I followed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I poured a little melted wax on the bottom of the glass to fix one end of the wick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;with some iron wire I tied the other end to the center of the upper part of the glass, in order to keep it taut&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I poured the rest of the wax&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wick has therefore remained perfectly vertical in the center of the wax, but when I light the candle and the top becomes liquid, the wick becomes floppy and falls into the liquid and goes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07GSZCPQC/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is the wick I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you make it stiff like in commercial candles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17433" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T19:55:32.657" Title="How to make candle wick stiffer?" Tags="|wax|candle-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11798" CreationDate="2023-08-27T12:49:38.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://feelingnifty.com/hydro-flask-painting-diy-tutorial/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apparently&lt;/a&gt;, you can use acrylic paints to decorate your flask, and then seal it with a dishwasher-safe sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For painting you can use regular acrylic paints, and for doodling you can use acrylic paint markers.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I suggest to opt for higher quality products, as they will have a higher amount of pigment and improve the coverage on your flask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are paint markers available that are dishwasher safe (like, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.slumpys.com/Fusible-Art-Glass/Marabu-Pens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these ones&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For other products you might have to use a sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the linked article, the flasks were painted with regular acrylic paints, and afterwards a dishwasher-safe Mod Podge sealant was used to prevent if from peeling and chipping. This seems to work fine, but remember that this particular sealant is not food grade. However, as long as it is not applied to a surface where it will get into contact with food or your lips, this should be a safe choice. You might also be able to find sealants that are both dishwasher-safe and food grade.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Make sure to heed the drying time, though, to guarantee the highest level of inertness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-08-27T12:49:38.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11854" CreationDate="2023-08-28T11:20:18.493" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to explore &amp;quot;pattern darning&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;kogin&amp;quot; style embroidery, which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bt6pX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bt6pX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The patterns consist of straight lines in a regular grid, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9Vfn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9Vfn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually this is done on a fabric with thicker threads and an even weave (like aida). However, &lt;strong&gt;I want to embroider a much finer fabric, so I cannot use the threads of the fabric as a grid.&lt;/strong&gt; In theory I could count several threads, but those threads are too hard to see, so that's not a viable option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I used a piece of paper, drew a grid on it and poked holes for the grid with a needle. Then I transferred the grid onto fabric by marking a dot through each hole with a water soluble marker. I tried that approach with a 2 x 2 mm and a 1.5 x 1.5 mm grid. The result worked well, but making and transferring the grids is a lot of work. For a 10 cm sampler I have to mark several hundred dots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a quicker method of transferring a fine grid onto fine fabric in a way I can erase / dissolve the grid when I'm finished?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I considered include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water soluble embroidery interfacing, but I still need to transfer the grid onto the interfacing first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The historical method of dusting the grid pattern with charcoal powder (each hole in the paper leaves a dot of charcoal on the fabric), but the dots disappear when handling the fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling a spike wheel over carbon paper, but that poses the challenge of aligning each new line evenly and the carbon is not water soluble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulling threads in regular intervals leaves marks on the finished piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-09-18T11:19:25.317" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T17:20:16.797" Title="How to transfer 1.5 x 1.5 mm grid onto fabric?" Tags="|material-selection|embroidery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11873" CreationDate="2023-08-28T11:48:59.560" Score="2" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any techniques that can be used to imitate an oily sheen on a surface using matt acrylic paints and an airbrush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to color the carapace on a large beetle shell that ranges from black\green to light blue\green, with the light coming from above. I have only matt acrylic paints and want to use them if possible rather than buy pearlescent paints that I may never use again, and to explore new techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan B is to do a textbook zenithal highlight, and then use a gloss varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T20:58:52.223" Title="Creating an &quot;oily&quot; effect using acrylic airbrush paints?" Tags="|technique-selection|airbrush|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11812" CreationDate="2023-08-28T21:13:18.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the effect you are looking for is from thin film interface, like a bubble has those swirling colors as light is refracting through the thin film of the bubble surface in different ways because of microscopic differences in thickness. It can be recreated with special paints, often called dichromatic or opal paints (opals have the same effect) that to do the same thing with light passing through it. I would call those dynamic because they change as the light and viewing angles change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to capture this effect with standard paints would be to reproduce the effect of the light refraction at chosen angle. You would recreate the hues and patterns of the highlights with static colors. The problem is this would be fixed, not dynamic, so it would NOT be the same as the original effect. It would be a snapshot of it. This works better with 2d painting since we do not expect it to change, we only see the object at one angle. On a three dimensional model it may not be as effective as using the special paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, dichromatic acrylic paints are readily available. They are very transparent so they would work well as a layer over your base color. For painting a 3d model it would probably be worth trying them out as it would be a much more natural looking and dynamic finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T21:13:18.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11830" CreationDate="2023-08-28T21:38:08.697" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a class on puppets and trying to find a variety of good eye balls so that my students have as many options as possible.  I've seen a few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plastic spoons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ping pong balls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;googly eyes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;casting your own (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwopqYjSASQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwopqYjSASQ&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Half Round Wood Beads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the list above, casting eyes looks the best, and plastic spoons are the most versatile for different sizes and shapes.  But I know this list can't be complete.  What are some other things that can be used to create eye balls on puppets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastEditorUserId="16730" LastEditDate="2023-09-01T16:31:47.197" LastActivityDate="2023-09-01T16:31:47.197" Title="How can I create puppet eyes?" Tags="|puppet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2023-08-31T12:32:46.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11786" CreationDate="2023-08-29T10:37:45.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, this is completely normal. At least, if it's not normal, my machine does the same and I've never had any issues with it. If it makes you feel better, the same phenomenon happens to other people, too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iazak.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iazak.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual stitch holes are all in one perfect line. Between the stitch holes run 2 threads, one above and one below the fabric. Exactly in the stitch holes both threads cross each other twice to form the actual stitch. (Sewing machines do that in the bobbin compartment by grabbing the upper thread and moving a loop of it once around the bobbin.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This crossing cannot possibly be straight for both threads, they physically have to wind around each other. So one thread must move to the left while the other moves to the right. That's why the threads look slanted while the holes are in a perfect line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this schematic of a machine stitch by &lt;a href=&quot;https://colessewingblog.com/author/coleslegs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coles Sewing Centre&lt;/a&gt; makes it clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/581Lf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/581Lf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the tension is set correctly, the threads should cross right in the middle between both layers of fabric. Since the threads have to wind around each other, one must lean to the right and the other to the left, it's impossible for both threads to be perfectly straight. If you could remove the fabric, you should see both threads forming a double helix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tension is too low or too high, one thread is straight(er) and pulls the crossing loop of the other thread to the top or bottom of the fabric. The low tension thread has more room to move and twist around so the high tension thread is kept relatively straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-08-29T10:50:26.487" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T10:50:26.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11814" CreationDate="2023-08-29T17:24:11.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that it is traditional to use buttons as the eyes of dolls or puppets in western European countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T17:24:11.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11812" CreationDate="2023-08-29T19:22:34.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion creating a &amp;quot;shiny&amp;quot; effect with matte paints will always look odd. The human eye is very keen on picking up tiny clues and drawing assumptions from them, so when we see a matte finish we expect the light to act typically for matte objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we take for example a sphere with a single light source, the size and sharpness of the highlight created by the light source tells us about the properties of the surface. A small, sharp highlight with a sharp contrast between light and background implies a shiny, almost mirror-like surface. A blurry, spread-out highlight with a smooth transition between light and background implies a matte, maybe even rough surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VThL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VThL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you try to recreate a shiny surface on an object with matte paint, you have to paint a lot of sharp details, shadows and highlights. However, this may evoke a completely different effect of looking blocky, maybe unrefined or just &amp;quot;off&amp;quot;. Our eyes still see the natural shadows and highlights of the natural light which imply a matte surface and the painted shiny effect doesn't reconcile with what we see. I think this is like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uncanny_valley&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;uncanny valley&lt;/a&gt; for surface textures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some experience with painting tabletop miniatures and weapons like swords and axes never looked right because the &amp;quot;silver&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;metal&amp;quot; paints have a grainy texture that evokes a matte impression. No matter how diligent I copied highlights and shadows from photos of real swords or other miniatures, my painted weapons always looked fake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example I found on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/cbq186/some_learning_attempts_at_nmm_weapons_comments/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit&lt;/a&gt; with beatifully painted weapons, but none of them look truely shiny to me. The green skin tome OTOH looks very shiny to me because the natural light bounces off of it like it would off a shiny surface - probably because it &lt;em&gt;actually is shiny&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;So I highly recommend giving all surfaces that are supposed to be shiny an actual shiny finish.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U04aO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U04aO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T19:22:34.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-29T19:43:47.700" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many clock frames, as below, show a pattern of repeated indentations covering most of the surface of the frame. The still is from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1l21-Opg3g&amp;amp;t=131s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; showing the behaviour of the clockwork which is not relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaoP2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaoP2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Partial view of clock frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to search for an explanation and hoping an AI would know received the commentary that the marks were possibly aesthetic, provided improved grip or were a manufacturing artifact. As none of these seem likely, I asked for an appropriate StackExchange forum and was suggested either &amp;quot;Clockmaking &amp;amp; Horology Stack Exchange&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Clocks &amp;amp; Watches Stack Exchange&amp;quot;, neither of which exists. This forum seems to be the closest in intent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I have seen this effect on clocks mostly from earlier in the 20th century, I don't believe that they are tool marks from rollers moving material around in a CNC cutter of some sort. There is also the fact that the indentations do not cover the entire surface making the clamping hypothesis unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These marks are clearly not the same as the circular overlapping polishing marks used in the finishing of exterior visible surfaces and the introduction of features this small seem unlikely to be a work hardening exercise. The look to be too regular to be hammered individually into the plates. I don't believe the process is brass-specific - this may be self-selecting from the use of these frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any consensus on the purpose and mechanism of application of this interesting finish? Is it still in use in current processes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further examples showing broader adoption of the technique, but with no clear orignial source:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polish (1941) &lt;a href=&quot;https://archiwum.allegro.pl/oferta/klasyczny-zegar-wiszacy-junghans-1941-rok-i8131074718.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://archiwum.allegro.pl/oferta/klasyczny-zegar-wiszacy-junghans-1941-rok-i8131074718.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unknown &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dreamstime.com/stock-images-clock-mechanism-close-up-internal-image39512034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dreamstime.com/stock-images-clock-mechanism-close-up-internal-image39512034&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Soviet (&amp;lt;1991) &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.etsystatic.com/15337720/r/il/d0f287/1992046279/il_794xN.1992046279_mhi4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.etsystatic.com/15337720/r/il/d0f287/1992046279/il_794xN.1992046279_mhi4.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Soviet (&amp;lt;1991)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.etsystatic.com/15337720/r/il/b7d356/1992045813/il_794xN.1992045813_47pi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.etsystatic.com/15337720/r/il/b7d356/1992045813/il_794xN.1992045813_47pi.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;German &lt;a href=&quot;https://img1.etsystatic.com/124/0/7607498/il_fullxfull.889105327_rf5r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://img1.etsystatic.com/124/0/7607498/il_fullxfull.889105327_rf5r.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17451" LastEditorUserId="17451" LastEditDate="2023-09-02T21:18:41.610" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T21:18:41.610" Title="What is the reason for the repeated indentations covering most of the surface of clock frames?" Tags="|metalworking|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11808" CreationDate="2023-08-29T19:55:32.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The choice of wick is determined by many factors. Two are the diameter of the candle and melting temperature of the wax. If the candle is wide, or made of low melting point wax, the melt pool becomes deeper as enough heat cannot radiate outwards or burn enough wax causing the wick to become unsupported for too much of its height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern wicks are specifically designed to bend over to be self-snuffing and in your case using regular natural yarn could solve the drooping problem but unless carefully matched, introduce a smoking problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relationships of these, and the many other, variables is complex and I suspect you will need to experiment to confirm a suitable combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17451" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T19:55:32.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11796" CreationDate="2023-08-29T20:00:38.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material looks multi-layered which suggests that at least the backing layer is not made of leather as tagged. If it is some kind of paperboard, then it is likely not designed for repeated bending and will fail with repeated use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possibly intended as a single season fashion item, instead of meant for extended use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing a thin fabric layer to the back across an extended length would likely make the belt serviceable, if not as pleasing aesthetically. Using black fabric or thin dyed leather would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17451" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T20:00:38.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11768" CreationDate="2023-08-29T20:32:17.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right about the enamel being stripped between the links. The high point pressure would abrade the protective coating quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painted on chemical oxide finishes are extremely thin. The alternative industrial bluing processes utilise corrosive chemicals (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://downarchive.org/e-books/video-training/293578-agi-304-professional-metal-re-finishing-and-hot-caustic-bluing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Professional Metal Re-Finishing And Hot Caustic Bluing&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/download/gunsmithing/Amateur%20Gunsmithing.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amateur Gunsmithing, pgs 74-77&lt;/a&gt;) and are not much fun in a non-commercial setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sandblast your parts and etch them briefly in acid before bluing them, and then oil them afterward to protect the new finish, the roughness created by the preparation may be adequate to prevent the rubbing from shining up the parts during use. The oil prevents further corrosion from changing the colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem was faced in medieval times by knights' squires who were responsible for maintaining chain mail. There has been much written about how mail tumbled in coarse sand would become suitably polished suggesting the need for frequent treatment to prevent rust for anything with frequent movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17451" LastEditorUserId="17451" LastEditDate="2023-08-30T17:48:34.227" LastActivityDate="2023-08-30T17:48:34.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11727" CreationDate="2023-08-29T20:53:54.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The piece looks like it was made from a single piece. The typical approach for this would be to turn it from a longer piece in a chuck, or on a face place, without centres and use a boring bar to cut out the interior of the material before slitting it into the three pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reduce the amount of material, it is possible to use a curved trepanning tool to cut out hemispheres from the material in turn to avoid having to turn the entire interior out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last pass would need to be pure boring work as the interior is a pointed, not a spherical shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17451" LastActivityDate="2023-08-29T20:53:54.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11818" CreationDate="2023-08-30T02:49:05.043" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An explanation for the hole pattern appears in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07YBV4V74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; watch repair product:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGDXw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGDXw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, if I were a watchmaker, it would be very useful to have a basic grid to work on, a visual aid to place elements in the correct place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastActivityDate="2023-08-30T02:49:05.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-30T21:30:54.810" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a craft idea that involves affixing paperclips in a pattern onto a surface (painted wood or clay). What kind of adhesive would firmly attach the clips but remain invisible? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17455" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T09:50:57.820" Title="How to affix items like paperclips to a surface?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2023-09-02T17:11:15.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11826" CreationDate="2023-08-30T22:37:34.440" Score="2" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm outlining a class on building oil kaleidoscopes, and one of the things I find strangely consistent is that they all hold the oil and items at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not have the oil and items fill the entire tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will submerging the mirrors in oil mess with the reflections negatively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastActivityDate="2023-08-31T08:01:53.500" Title="Why do oil kaleidoscopes only have floating items at the end?" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11825" CreationDate="2023-08-31T00:13:06.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The optics of a kaleidoscope are based on the multiple reflections from the mirrors within. One can focus on the tube end containing the objects while maintaining appropriate focus for the reflections generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With objects enclosed in the entire tube, the reflections and the objects will be at various levels, requiring the viewer to change focus for each object (and associated reflection) floating within. I also believe that the results would be more cluttered or require far fewer objects if such clutter is to be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could conceivably fill the tube with an optical matching liquid, but without adding objects. This adds weight, cost and the higher risk of a very messy leak. An inappropriate liquid would make the viewing worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2023-08-31T08:01:53.500" LastActivityDate="2023-08-31T08:01:53.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-08-31T01:45:39.973" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried Gorilla super glue, hot glue gun, e6000, and couldnt get the plastic flowers to stick!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17455" LastActivityDate="2024-03-07T12:02:15.277" Title="How to stick plastic flowers to a spray-painted cigar box?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11827" CreationDate="2023-08-31T06:06:42.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only adhesive that comes to my mind is construction silicone. A family member used clear construction silicone to glue all kinds of plastic flowers and decorative objects onto wood boards to make displays and most of the objects held so fast they had to be cut off with a knife. However, some very smooth surfaces (some plastics or varnished objects) could be peeled off easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, consider drilling a hole through the box and the flower and fastening it with some craft wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-08-31T06:06:42.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11825" CreationDate="2023-08-31T06:58:31.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd also need a really transparent oil to avoid path length differences changing the colour of the objects. As it is the reflections that appear further out are dimmer because of mirror losses, and it's these that would be affected most. We now have such oils, but they have a cost, and they're not traditional so there's little incentive to use them. In a kaleidoscope stored on end, the objects would sink in a thick layer of oil, and not redistribute very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a layer with a bit of thickness might work, as the eye has a certain depth of field in which items are fairly well focussed. This depth of field is greater in bright light, as the pupil contracts. So you can have a thicker layer of objects with brighter illumination. But it would still be a fairly small fraction of the distance from the eye to the objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However depth perception is largely from binocular vision, which a normal single-eye kaleidoscope lacks. With only one eye, depth perception comes from expectations of the size of familiar objects (not applicable here), seing what is in front of what, and loss of focus. So the effect wouldn't be as interesting as you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-08-31T06:58:31.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11814" CreationDate="2023-08-31T07:19:13.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the most simple option you could draw or paint eyes on the puppet with water resistent markers or paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could glue any object on the puppet that resembles eyes, like the typical googly eyes, cut-out paper, cardboard or plastic eyes, sequins or random stuff you find lying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the use of a needle and thread you could sew on different eyes like beads, cabochons or big rhinestones, but you could also embroider an eye from just the thread or sew on little patches of a different fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the object you want to sew on as an eye doesn't have holes, there's also the technique of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shisha_(embroidery)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shisha or mirror-work embroidery&lt;/a&gt; with which you can attach small, flat objects to fabric without sewing through the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, the options are vast. I bet you could walk through a home construction store or empty out a trash container and find various objects you could use as eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-08-31T07:19:13.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-01T12:43:38.760" Score="2" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to create different scented wooden boxes for a business idea I have in mind. However, not having any experience in scented objects I wanted to know what would be the best way to go about this. The box I have measures 14 x 9cm x 4cm and is made of pinewood. My initial plan is to add the scent to synthetic wool, wait for it to completely dry and then insert this into the wooden box and seal it shut. However, I don't know how well this will work or the required amount of scent to achieve this. I don't want to spend a lot of money on fragrances I may or may not need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To conclude, Would like to know if anyone knows how much ml of fragrance would be appropriate to use on the fibre for each box and what would be the most effective and long-lasting method of keeping the scent. I am happy for a scent that lasts for more then a week and have contemplated adding holes in the box to achieve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, what would be the cheapest way to achieve this for different scents. Should I purchase the scents or attempt to make them myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has come across doing something similar and has their own idea of what works best would appreciate very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached a picture of the scented fibre In the box. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GMLV9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GMLV9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17406" LastActivityDate="2023-09-01T12:43:38.760" Title="How to create a perfumed scent box" Tags="|wood|woodworking|fiber-crafts|preparation|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11818" CreationDate="2023-09-01T16:13:23.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the brass plate serves as a sort of breadboard for the clock structure and components. All of the pieces attached line up with the holes, as well as one end of the assembly itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the holes would serve time saving and organizational functions. They allow for a gridded layout of the components and provide tap points for drilling out larger holes for screws to attach to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2023-09-01T16:13:23.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11824" CreationDate="2023-09-02T09:50:57.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d try lecture ultra gel adhesive! I haven’t tried it on wood but I use it for a lot of different materials and they have different kinds for different surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T09:50:57.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11727" CreationDate="2023-09-02T10:00:16.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how big the wood is you might be able to use some lino-cut tools or wood chisels to get a similar shape especially if you just want the middle part. This would work best on a softer wood like pine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically cut the overall piece how you want it. Then mark and carve out the general inside shape and then go back in with a LOT of sanding paper getting finer and finer until it’s smooth enough to finish with a varnish if you want to finish it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T10:00:16.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11789" CreationDate="2023-09-02T10:39:30.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a knitting specific needle for your sewing machine!! Ball point needles are generally better for knits than universal needles. It varies by machine so you’re gonna have to look into what’s specifically needed for your machine:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybTtI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybTtI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s still gonna be difficult so if you have any test material I would practice on that first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn it inside out, wear it, pin it and get to work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use something like the blue stitch in this pic and go SLOW:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/olz1s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/olz1s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won’t have to worry about finishing your seams with that stitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it feels like it’s not doable on the machine I’ve had a lot of luck backstitching knits by hand and just sealing them with a French seam. I think it looks nice and it lays flat also. You can also just backstitch it and pink the seams altho that might be kinda pokey to wear comparatively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to keep in mind is a lot of big machine stores actually use something called a surger for knits! It’s big and expensive but it cuts and sews the fabric all at once with basically no errors so it’s okay to not be as good as machinery you don’t have access too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something is already on it’s way out there’s nothing lost in trying to fix it up. I tend to avoid knits on the machine myself but honestly it’s something I think every seamster should try at least a handful of times because I learn something new every time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be hit or miss starting out but it’s impossible to get better at something you never do! Good luck!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T10:39:30.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1853" CreationDate="2023-09-02T11:02:53.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember trying both heat and nail polish when I used to dance and neither really lasted as long as I wanted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to consider is a combination of methods since the ends won’t be seen and you’re going for durability!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d try trimming it straight, heat sealing, then nail polish, then fold it over and use a tiny bit of glue. Make sure to make the fold long enough there’s room for glue AND the stitches later on because it’s hard to sew through glue but sometimes the adhesive doesn’t hold long term especially on slidey stuff like satin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then fold it over AGAIN so you can fully sew in the seam entirely so there’s no chance at all for it to fray unless it gets cut or the stitches get loose. Do two rows of stitches if you really really want to be sure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d use something durable like a backstitch so it’s really in there good! Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastEditorUserId="17463" LastEditDate="2023-09-02T11:04:27.870" LastActivityDate="2023-09-02T11:04:27.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11796" CreationDate="2023-09-03T14:08:33.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a project it could be fixable for a while but if you just want a belt it's way more worth it to just buy a better quality one if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have materials at hand and want to try and fix it I'd start by punching 2-3 very small holes on either side of the rip to sew through. Try and avoid having them so big or so close to the holes you're going to use as a belt because this might start another tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the rip with a sturdy fabric possibly even a very dense batting as that will hold together well. If you use fabric, tuck the ends under. If you use batting, you don't have to worry about that. Wrap it on both sides and sew it through the holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn it over and sew the gap shut either using invisible stitches or not! It's on the back so as long as it holds together it'll be fine. Keep in mind this will still eventually come apart but it might hold you over until you can get a new or better one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to but you could also use fabric paint on the entire patch to help it match the leather color and this would also seal the stitches in so it would last a bit longer. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2023-09-03T15:02:57.833" LastActivityDate="2023-09-03T15:02:57.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-03T14:41:05.180" Score="5" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make a ton of origami stars (like how I (and many others) used to in middle school) for a future music/live performance, but I want them to be the most glitzed-out 2000's glitter puke imaginable, while still being thin and foldable enough to make them by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like so bright and shiny that it'll be noticeable in dive bar lighting. I &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; want to use anything that would risk the glitter coming off. I'm thinking almost holographic of glittery sticker paper but no adhesive and very large sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the large uncut sheets don't exist premade, how would I go about making it without risking getting glitter everywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture for clarity on what I'd be folding them into.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I would like some of them to be larger, though, so I can attach a tab for people to unfold them, and a thing with maybe my artist name or a QR code to a single (a &amp;quot;single&amp;quot; song. you can make any website link into a QR code now) will be inside, I'm not sure yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want the regular ones to be about a half inch tall maybe a bit taller with a few bigger 1-2&amp;quot; ones with stuff inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I could get large sheets of glittery/holographic paper that's easily bendable? I'm looking for foldable holographic or glittery sheets/paper at least 8.5&amp;quot; x 11&amp;quot; but would prefer something like a roll almost like wallpaper or gift wrap but I'm having a hard time finding any of those as bright or non-holiday specific as I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image is just from googling &amp;quot;paper stars&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3cpNI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Photo of different colored origami stars&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3cpNI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of different colored origami stars&quot; title=&quot;Photo of different colored origami stars&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-09-10T14:55:50.683" LastActivityDate="2023-09-10T14:55:50.683" Title="How do I get or make large glitter paper sheets for origami stars?" Tags="|material-selection|paper|technique-selection|origami|props|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11841" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2023-09-04T10:38:27.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you know what material you are going to use, please use its appropriate tag, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/material-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;material-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-material-selection-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;material-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-technique-selection-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/adhesives&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;adhesives&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;adhesives&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-adhesives-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;adhesives&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-09-04T10:38:27.180" LastActivityDate="2023-09-04T10:38:27.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11842" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2023-09-04T10:38:27.180" Score="0" Body="When asking about the imitation of specific objects, or the reconstruction of a specific object on a different scale and, usually, in different (often cheaper) materials. Props are used in the theatre, but also in cosplay scenarios and for theme parties. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-09-04T10:38:27.180" LastActivityDate="2023-09-04T10:38:27.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11839" CreationDate="2023-09-04T12:35:15.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actual glitter paper relies on bonding glitter to paper (or card) and it always sheds, whether bought or home made.  You may be able to spray coat it and reduce the shedding, but you won't stop it completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead you might look at (textured) metallic foil card, or holographic card.  Both can go quite thin, and while they're not the exact effect you're going for, in dive bar lighting during the performance, the larger reflections may actually be better, though less good for the ones being handled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you could fold, cover with spray adhesive, then apply glitter (probably quite a coarse glitter).  Brush over with a soft brush to remove loose bits then apply a glossy spray sealer (or lacquer, or varnish, depending on what's available) to stick it down better.   This approach would probably result in the most robust final product with real glitter, at the expense of considerably more effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything reflective needs light to reflect, and directional lighting, like spotlights, works far better than anything more diffuse, as you get the glinting effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-09-04T12:35:15.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-05T22:19:39.403" Score="3" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sock puppet, and I would like to give it some good looking puppet eyes.  It doesn't need to be any specific material or shape, but I do want it to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be capable of good eye focus and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be somewhat bulbous, not just a flat circle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things like googly eyes don't maintain good focus and are very flat.  Premade eyes tend to have the pupil directly in the center, giving them poor close range focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I make well focused and bulbous eyes for my sock puppet?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AV0xM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AV0xM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;for example, the muppets tend to have eyes that aren't flat and focus on you&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-09-07T22:43:22.237" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T22:43:22.237" Title="How can I make well focused and bulbous eyes for my sock puppet?" Tags="|material-selection|technique-selection|props|puppet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11844" CreationDate="2023-09-07T18:23:31.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After searching around a bunch, here is what I've found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A good place to start looking for ideas is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://muppet.fandom.com/wiki/Muppet_Wiki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the muppets wiki&lt;/a&gt;.  There is a ton of inspiration to be had&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the muppets, a very common eye is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early years, many Muppet eyes were made from &amp;quot;Wacky Stacks,&amp;quot; a toy that consisted of a series of spheres of different sizes. Each sphere came apart into two hemispheres...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because these eyes are no longer sold, an alternative is to buy half round wooden beads and spray paint them white&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another very common eye is ping pong balls.  These can be cut down a bit if you want them to look embedded into the head.   For a cheaper alternative, styrofoam balls can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plastic spoons can be cut into small bulbous eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For all eyes, the most important part of focus is pupil location.  I used a hole punch on one-sided sticky velvet to get pupils.  I then stuck them onto needles, and used the needles to position them.  This video shows how: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWcHUzXKmiM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWcHUzXKmiM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the muppets universe, small pupils denote being older and large pupils are for younger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still haven't found a good way to make non-spherical eyes.  It seems like the kind of thing that might require a mold and some clay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPigr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPigr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T18:23:31.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5517" CreationDate="2023-09-13T15:34:44.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first choice would be spirit gum. Spirit Gum is an industry standard adhesive, and you can easily find it online. I personally recommend the brand Ben Nye. They are a credible company that a lot of celebrity makeup artists use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are unable to obtain spirit gum you can use eyelash glue. Eyelash glue is typically use for adhering fake eyelashes to make them appear bigger and darker. This you can also easily find online. Eye lash glue is relatively safer for the eye area and more accessible. That being said, always do a small patch test on your hand prior to your application to ensure you don't get an allergic reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17509" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-09-13T15:59:17.390" LastActivityDate="2023-09-13T15:59:17.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10523" CreationDate="2023-09-13T15:49:41.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very important to completely wash the soap residue off your surface before painting. Acrylic paint can very easily peel off of plastic, so by leaving a thin soap layer you're only increasing your chances of the paint peeling. Afterward, rinse the plastic in just water no soap with a scrub brush. Then, let it completely air dry (should take anywhere from a few hours to overnight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I would recommend to prevent paint peeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, using a fine-grit sand paper over your plastic before painting. That way, the plastic won't be as smooth and the paint will adhere more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, using a paint primer, and then letting it completely dry before you paint your final color. By adding a primer, you're increasing your odds of a perfect application. Another benefit to a primer is that depending on what color the plastic and the paint color, you can make your paint coat more vivid by paint on a white primer first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17509" LastActivityDate="2023-09-13T15:49:41.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11852" CreationDate="2023-09-18T22:02:27.157" Score="0" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching all over for something to use as snow in a snowglobe.  Most places suggest glitter, but the photos of the finished projects look very unproffessional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find someone on etsy selling &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.etsy.com/listing/115385922/genuine-snow-globe-snow-for-diy-snow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;genuine snow globe snow&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, and it does look correct.  But it is also extremely expensive for what seems like little chunks of plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I get affordable and chunky looking snow for a snow globe?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6bMQh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6bMQh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0VBu2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0VBu2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T08:28:02.333" Title="How do I get chunky looking snow in a snowglobe?" Tags="|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11853" CreationDate="2023-09-18T22:54:27.267" Score="3" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any standard for how an artist can indicate that a signature, copyright, trademark, logo, etc., is intended to be taken as part of a piece of art, and not as a genuine expression of authenticity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose an arbitrary individual is making custom Hallmark card designs, not for commercial use, but just to post online, and wants to include the Hallmark logo to make them look more realistic.  Is there a short symbol or string of letters they can mark the logo with to distinguish the custom cards from authentic Hallmark cards, analogous to how &lt;em&gt;sic&lt;/em&gt; is used within a quotation to convey some higher-level meaning about the accuracy of the quotation, but is understood not to be part of the quotation itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly for an arbitrary individual using a famous artist's signature in a painting made in their style, art which includes copyright information printed on it (custom Yu-Gi-Oh! cards), etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17538" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T10:48:36.127" Title="Is there a way to indicate the artistic quality of a signature, copyright, trademark, logo, etc.?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11850" CreationDate="2023-09-19T06:42:10.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course there are several different options available in different shops and at quite different price points. However, there might be some crafty alternatives you could try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Egg shells&lt;/strong&gt;: break the shells of 1 - 2 white eggs into pieces the size you want. Make sure to either use the shells of boiled eggs or boil the empty shells before crushing them. Rinse out the fine dust before filling the pieces into the snow globe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bleached sponge&lt;/strong&gt;: rip the sponge into tiny pieces. This may work with natural and artificial sponges and probably even with loofas or similar materials, although loofa probably creates a very different impression due to the stringy fibers. Natural sponges usually sink in water, but many artificial ones probably float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polymer clay&lt;/strong&gt;: Honestly I'm not sure if polymer clay particles float on water or sink to the bottom. But it's water resistant after baking and often used for the actual figures in snow globes. If it does float on water, maybe try if it sinks into baby oil instead (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aluminum foil&lt;/strong&gt;: cut it into small pieces for an alternative to glitter. You can roll the pieces between your hands to make chunky glitter flakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additives to the water&lt;/strong&gt;: There are several different substances you can add to the water to make the snow particles sink slower. Those include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 table spoons (or more) of glycerin per cup of water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 table spoons (or more) of clear glue (like Elmers) per cup of water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the globe with baby oil instead of water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see a comparison of these materials &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/cjyn_3wFXDc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The baby oil has a much higher viscosity than water, so it may open up opportunities for other chunky snow materials like white sand, crushed glass or crushed sea shells that would sink too quickly in plain water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-09-19T08:28:02.333" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T08:28:02.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11851" CreationDate="2023-09-19T10:48:36.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is the Fair Use logo: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WHT1g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WHT1g.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_use&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fair use is a doctrine in United States law that permits limited use of copyrighted material without having to first acquire permission from the copyright holder. Fair use is one of the limitations to copyright intended to balance the interests of copyright holders with the public interest in the wider distribution and use of creative works by allowing as a defense to copyright infringement claims certain limited uses that might otherwise be considered infringement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot speak to the legal percussions of your use; for that you might want to ask over at &lt;a href=&quot;https://law.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Law.SE&lt;/a&gt;, but this seems to answer your question.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(I am pretty sure that pure imitation is usually illegal. For personal use it's tolerated, but for commercial use a logo such as this, or writing something like &amp;quot;no copyright infringement intended&amp;quot;, won't change anything.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another option to imitate a brand like Hallmark is to change the wording or the style slightly ('Hellmark' and the like). That way you might more easily circumvent getting sued. And &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scoopwhoop.com/humor/fake-brands/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;humour ensues&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T10:48:36.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11811" CreationDate="2023-09-19T17:20:16.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like what you're looking for is &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Waste Canvas&lt;/strong&gt;.&amp;quot; Waste Canvas is a product designed to allow crafters to work cross stitch (and similar embroidery techniques) on any surface; it's an aida fabric that, instead of being woven, is held together using water-soluble glue. By moistening or soaking the project after completing the embroidery, the glue is removed, allowing the threads to be pulled free and leaving only the embroidery behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIXYt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sIXYt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An image of a corgi and lettering cross-stitched onto jersey knit material over partially removed waste canvas; loose threads are visible, showing how the waste canvas is removed from the project&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://littlelionstitchery.com/waste-canvas/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Little Lion Stitchery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://littlelionstitchery.com/waste-canvas/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Little Lion Stitchery&lt;/a&gt; has a great blog about their experience using waste canvas; their key takeaway points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prewash and press your clothing/fabric to remove any sizing; you want to avoid anything that might change the shape or size of the finished product, so making sure it's clean, pre-shrunk, and as flat as possible will help minimize that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the waste canvas is secure. You can pin, baste, or hoop it onto your fabric, depending on your own preferences; when hooping, the author notes the waste canvas is rather stiff, making it a bit difficult to hoop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the appropriate needle; you won't always be able to use a blunt needle as you would for stitching on aida alone. You'll need a needle that can handle stitching through whatever fabric you're using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be very careful to not stitch through the threads of the waste canvas, so you won't be stuck with a thread that can't be removed later&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully cut the canvas as close to the design as possible, without cutting either the design or the fabric underneath it. This will give you shorter threads to pull free, making the process much easier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removal can be done using a spray bottle, soaking, or placing the finished item under running water to soften the glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start removal by pulling the threads parallel to the blue marker threads, one at a time. Once these are all removed, the remaining threads should pull free easily, and may be possible to remove in small groups. Be careful to not distort your design or fabric in the process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sizes of waste canvas may be difficult to find, and may take some hunting around online if not carried by your local shops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also find good luck with &lt;strong&gt;Water Soluble Canvas&lt;/strong&gt;. Like Waste Canvas, this is designed to allow cross stitch/needlepoint work to be done on any fabric, however, rather than a woven material, it's a single sheet of soluble plastic. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thread-bare.com/blog/stitching-onto-a-garment-using-water-soluble-canvas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thread-Bare.com&lt;/a&gt; describes it as feeling &amp;quot;like a thin flexible plastic canvas&amp;quot; in their write-up on using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HMXla.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HMXla.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing a piece of water soluble canvas on top of a regular fabric, with stitching in place, demonstrating the usage&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.carinascraftblog.com/2014/11/20/tutorial-water-soluble-canvas.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carina's Craft Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of using water soluble canvas is very similar to waste canvas, though based on descriptions, it sounds like hooping it is unlikely to be practical due to the texture of the material. Advantages given on the Thread-Bare writeup include that the water soluble canvas is easier to see and remove than waste canvas, with the disadvantages that it benefits from adding interfacing for additional support (not necessary with the waste canvas), and is more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2023-09-19T17:20:16.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-19T20:22:13.537" Score="2" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Equipment Maintenance: What is the best cleaning material to use to clean up the two separate components of the generic 2 part mold making silicone used in jewellery making?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, to clean the measuring jugs that are used for Part A and Part B, as opposed to them in their combined form, or cleaning up a spill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking in terms of a family of products, rather than an individual branded product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, should I use a degreasing agent such as liquid dish soap, or a scouring agent such as a baking soda based hard surface cleaner. Do alkali or dilute acids perform the best? Would an alcohol based cleaning agent perform well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2023-09-20T17:06:42.517" LastActivityDate="2023-09-20T17:06:42.517" Title="What is the best cleaning material to use on the individual components of 2 part mold making silicone?" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11855" CreationDate="2023-09-20T06:20:53.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option to dispose of silicone and its chemical components is the local waste system. So first you should &lt;strong&gt;wipe the objects&lt;/strong&gt; (containers and mixing instruments) &lt;strong&gt;with paper towels&lt;/strong&gt; or old newspaper to remove as much silicone as possible. These should be &lt;strong&gt;disposed in the usual household waste&lt;/strong&gt;, not in the recycling system. Just keep in mind that they stick to the waste container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The waste is usually either burned (where silicone does not release any hazardous chemicals and releases less CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; than plastics) or stored in landfills (where it takes decades to decompose but doesn't release any hazardous chemicals or micro-plastics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What residue is left can be &lt;strong&gt;washed away with soap and water&lt;/strong&gt;. Silicone is hydrophobic, so water cannot mix with it, but it's lipophilic, so it can be dissolved with soap or alcohol. All safety data sheets I found (links below) say to wash the silicone components away with soap and water and none of them indicate any environmental hazards. However, I assume you can clog up a drain pipe quite quickly when trying to wash away big globs of uncured silicone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some studies that indicate that some chemicals released from silicone can cause cancer or infertility, so I would avoid releasing silicone components into the environment as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also advice against any scouring agent because it only scratches the surface of the instruments but does no better than paper towels for the actual cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples of safety data sheets of different 2-part molding silicone products by different manufacturers. (I'm not affiliated with any of them) You can read in all of them that the components are non-toxic and are supposed to be washed away with soap and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://jitsiliconesplus.com/flex/assets/content/28/7a/3/4/34/ghs-16001-mmr.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MOLD    MAKING  RUBBER  45W by JIT Silicones Plus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.riogrande.com/knowledge-hub/safety-data-sheets/belicone-silicone-mold-rubber-msds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Belicone Red 1/4&amp;quot; Silicone Mold Rubber Sheet by Rio Grande&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.warnertechcare.com/media/MSDS/W04503.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DUR-A-SIL by Insta-Mold, Inc.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-09-20T06:20:53.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11855" CreationDate="2023-09-20T07:05:18.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the 2-part resins I've used, the solution has always been to minimise the need for cleaning. Cured compounds are usually easier to remove (e.g. by peeling) than uncured, with the exception of epoxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you'll be using a container dedicated to craft, and I recommend dedicating one to each class of materials. Then it depends how you have to measure your components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If by weight, weigh one, zero (tare) the scales, weigh the other on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By volume, with similar volumes, you can do something similar - measure one, calculate the total volume required, and add the other to the container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By volume where one is much less than the other and/or using dedicated measures - measure the large component directly into your mixing jug, and measure the smaller using the appropriate scoop or measuring spoon. Add the smaller to the larger, and wipe with a rag or industrial paper towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, liquids are best cleaned up just by wiping, and always using the same container for the same chemistry. Powder components can be treated similarly, though the rag should be damp with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-09-20T07:05:18.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2023-09-20T13:45:08.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;sprinkle the uncured sticky surface with powered zinc oxide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17547" LastActivityDate="2023-09-20T13:45:08.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11869" CreationDate="2023-09-20T16:37:35.390" Score="5" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to recycle and use an old 2L soft-drink bottle as a flexible transparent surface in a craft project, but when you remove the label there is always a bit of adhesive/label that stays stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDwd5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDwd5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to get rid of that leftover adhesive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17548" LastActivityDate="2023-09-30T20:12:24.360" Title="Is there a good way to remove leftover adhesive from a soft-drink bottle?" Tags="|adhesives|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-20T21:51:03.940" Score="2" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to design a class on snow globes, and I would like to have ground snow inside of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I can't seem to find anything that is paste-like, bright-white, and non-dissolvable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked into:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grout/mortar: dissolves in water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plaster/stucco: never actually white&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;white cement with white sand: possible, but overkill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air dry white polymer clay: water soluble&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;polymer clay: if watered down into a paste, it seems to require mixing in water soluble glue.. maybe acrylic paint will do.  Doesn't harden without baking (not possible for this project)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flex paste (woodland scenic): water soluble&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flex paste (flex seal): super shiny and rubbery, doesn't seem like it would make good snow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;snow tex/vallejo snow: unsure if it's water resistant.  Can't find the info anywhere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can I use as a snowy, bright-white paste that wont dissolve underwater and doesn't require baking?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally it might look something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRI5lzMUkKA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRI5lzMUkKA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastEditorUserId="16730" LastEditDate="2023-09-21T16:54:18.473" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T16:54:18.473" Title="What can I use to create bright white, non-dissolvable snow?" Tags="|model-building|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-21T22:21:20.697" Score="3" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first question here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to print &amp;quot;magical&amp;quot; cards from my PNP game and I want to use a home technique that resembles (in-line) cold foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Equipment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black only laser printer ($119.99)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12&amp;quot; Hot press laminator ($36.99)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6-color Ink Jet Printer ($449.99)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal Straight-edge and X-acto knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/16&amp;quot; Corner Rounder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laser Toner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;320 gsm white card stock 8.5&amp;quot; x 11&amp;quot; sheets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silver Heat Transfer Foil Roll 12&amp;quot; x 200' (gives me aprox. 282 pages)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inkaid Clear Matte Coating for Ink Jet printing (this is what I want to replace)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear Matte Fixing Spray&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black Sharpie&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Method I've Worked Out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the laser printer, I print on the card stock the spots where I want foil on the 8-up 2.5&amp;quot; x 3.5&amp;quot; Game Cards and 4-up Location cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then put 8.&amp;quot; x 11&amp;quot; sheet of the transfer foil on top of the laser-printed sheet and put the two in the laminating sleeve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I run the package through the Laminating Machine and the silver foil sticks to the spots of printed laser toner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then have to spread a coating to allow for ink jet printing using some kind of brush (but it's not recommended for plastic or film)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow 24 hrs drying&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray with Artists' Fixing spray to fix the ink jet ink to the foil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another 24 hrs drying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut cards to size and round corners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use sharpie on card edges in case I've accidentally beveled an edge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there an aerosol spray alternative to the Inkaide coating that will adhere to the silver film (that won't bead up), that I can then ink jet print onto?&lt;/strong&gt; I don't know what kind of coating current ink jet foil sheet makers use, and they want to keep it a &amp;quot;trade secret&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago I would print these cards on full sheets of Papilion shiny silver that after drying, fixing, and drying again, I would peal off the backing and adhere it to the card stock, making the complete card face foiled. A few crafting companies offer the same kind of sheets, but don't offer shiny foil. The fixing spray I would use with Papilion still allowed the foil to appear shiny even though the fixing spray was technically &amp;quot;matte&amp;quot;. (BTW - Papilion is out of business. Used to be able to get the sheets at my local Dick Blick store)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back then, cold foil (in-line) printing was on these massive Gutenburg printing modules. This consists of two modules - First a UV-Fixed Glue printer, and then the foil transfer - that are added in before the individual C, M, Y, and K printing and then (usually) a UV fixed gloss surfacing module. This would result in a seven-module printing press. I had business cards batched printed by this place in Florida with a set press setup. The only other available in the US at the time was in San Jose, CA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games like &amp;quot;Magic the Gathering&amp;quot; still use an opaque white ink over pre-laminated foiled paper, then CMYK to get the the partially foiled effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a few places offer on-demand inline foil using a desktop digital foil printer ($1K), but they will only do the back of cards as it's only one image multiplied. They won't do the faces as each card has unique artwork. (And they charge a sh*t load of money for the service.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody please help me? Again, I'm looking for a clear spray the will adhere to the foil and not bead up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17550" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T22:21:20.697" Title="Ink Jet Printing Onto Foil Already Transferred to Paper" Tags="|paper|printing|foil|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11863" CreationDate="2023-09-22T09:14:26.703" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have an old antique beer mug with a large chip on the side. I am sure there must be a way&#xA;to patch this up with a suitable, colour matched, ceramic compound so as to restore it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5y6Mx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5y6Mx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody recommend a particular compound that is easy to work with and would be suitable for this type of restoration work ? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance, Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17551" LastEditorUserId="17551" LastEditDate="2023-09-22T09:16:50.207" LastActivityDate="2023-09-23T07:27:03.360" Title="Restoration/fixing of an antique chipped beer mug" Tags="|material-selection|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11862" CreationDate="2023-09-22T11:41:57.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First question: how &amp;quot;antique&amp;quot; is this mug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the expertise to make an educated guess, but at least to me this doesn't look like a cheap mug made to look old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the older an object gets, the more valuable it gets. But an incompetent repair attempt will completely diminish the value of the object because fixing the botched repair attempt can be even more expensive than a professional repair would have been in the first place. So &lt;strong&gt;if this mug is actually a valuable antique, do not attempt any restorations on your own&lt;/strong&gt;. Trust an experienced restorator with this task or keep the mug as it is and let it reflect its long history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on repairing it, be aware that it's a multi-step process that involves gluing, sculpting, sanding and painting. This in not done in an afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different ceramic fillers and 2-part epoxy clays available for exactly this scenario, like Milliput. Since the chip is quite big, I would recommend using a special glue in addition to ceramic filler to ensure a strong bond, as demonstrated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/egiygOu0wQc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video by The Ceramic Repair Studio&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the chip with alcohol to remove any oil or dirt. Wash your hands very thoroughly before handling the object or wear gloves to avoid introducing fresh skin oil into the chipped area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) Mix ceramics glue like Araldite in the recommended ratio. Apply a thin layer over the chipped area, but not over the remaining glaze.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix 2-part epoxy clay or ceramics filler in the recommended ratio and press it firmly on the chipped area. Form the clay in the desired shape but make sure to overfill the chip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the filler cure completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand the cured filler down to the shape of the original object with fine sand paper (approx. 200 grid).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint over the filler with acrylics paints to match the original color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply one or several thin layer(s) of clear shiny varnish to blend the repair into the glazing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire process in described in detail in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lakesidepottery.com/Pages/Pottery-tips/How-to-repair-chipped-pottery-china-ceramic-step-by-step.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article by Lakeside Pottery&lt;/a&gt;. By searching for &amp;quot;repair chipped ceramics&amp;quot; you'll find a lot more instructions, some more professional than others. My advice is to listen to ceramics creators and restorators rather than DIY channels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-09-23T07:27:03.360" LastActivityDate="2023-09-23T07:27:03.360" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-09-25T12:23:24.927" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want to draw a grid on the ground in one point perspective, do I always have to guess the placement of the second horizontal line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can make future lines proportionate with the previous ones by drawing diagonal guidelines, but is there any way to determine how far apart to place to the second line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if I'm say drawing a house in 1 point perspective, do I have to guess how far back to place the back edges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1336" LastActivityDate="2023-10-05T10:55:49.350" Title="Do you always have to guess the first line when drawing in perspective?" Tags="|drawing|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11868" CreationDate="2023-09-27T20:36:45.477" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm obsesses by this art piece I found while traveling and couldn't bring home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ER82n.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ER82n.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this style called? How can I find more of it? Are there any digital tools that could help me generate pictures like this using pre-existing photos?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17582" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-09-28T08:30:19.167" LastActivityDate="2023-09-28T08:30:19.167" Title="What is this type of dotted art called and how can it be achieved?" Tags="|painting|cutting|style-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11867" CreationDate="2023-09-27T21:51:44.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is presented is a somewhat extreme manifestation of halftoning. Many graphics programs will allow halftone to be applied to an image. The extreme aspect is that the grid count is low, akin to a low resolution rendering. Other graphic attributes may have been applied prior to the final halftone application, perhaps posterizing and certainly grey scale but the final result is due to low resolution halftone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I popped off a quick search for black and white image of Marilyn Monroe and found &lt;a href=&quot;https://fanaru.com/marilyn-monroe/image/269025/marilyn-monroe-black-and-white-wallpaper/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; which provided this un-modified (but cropped and resized) image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yUsYP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yUsYP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Marilyn Monroe cropped&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;image from linked site&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Paint Shop Pro™, but Adobe Photoshop™ is certainly going to be capable. Another search shows that GIMP is also capable of creating a halftone effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the default dot shape from square to round and increasing the size to 4 in the parameters provided for the following result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIfTb.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIfTb.png&quot; alt=&quot;modified Marilyn&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;image from Paint Shop Pro™&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2023-09-27T22:02:31.870" LastActivityDate="2023-09-27T22:02:31.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11859" CreationDate="2023-09-27T22:48:18.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of projects with recycled soda bottles. The best solution I've found is acetone (do this with plenty of ventilation and away from sources of ignition). Wet a cotton swap with acetone and rub it on the residue. Let it sit for a minute and repeat. It takes a few passes, but it does a good job of cleaning off the adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goo Gone (and probably other similar adhesive removers), also works, but not as fast. The acetone seems to soak through the residual label, softening everything faster. The Goo Gone seems to need to wick in through exposed edges. Like acetone, it takes a number of applications to get everything off. The adhesive removers also tend to be more expensive than acetone, and some leave an oily residue that takes an extra cleaning step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16545" LastActivityDate="2023-09-27T22:48:18.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11878" CreationDate="2023-09-28T22:50:13.220" Score="3" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try and make an old-fashioned oilcloth hat shaped like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.zeilers.shop/kopen/zuidwester/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dutch Harbor Souwester Hat&lt;/a&gt;. The base material is woven cotton, which I would waterproof using oil and wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When picking a fabric does it matter if I pick something thin (100 gr/m2) like printed cotton or should I pick a heavier canvas (200 gr/m2) or even really heavy fabric (400 gr/m2)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For firmness, I would use several layers when picking the thinner material.&#xA;Can I just choose which fabric has the nicest print or should I worry about thin material wearing out much quicker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9180" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2023-09-29T14:37:41.230" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T20:16:07.610" Title="What kind of fabric for an oilcloth hat?" Tags="|material-selection|sewing|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11859" CreationDate="2023-09-30T09:49:45.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a product that's literally called Stick Stuff Remover in one of those homeware catalogues. You're local hardware or hobby shop may have an equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's sold under multiple different names in different countries. De,solve.it, De-solv-it, Xmykal sticky stuff remover. It's the same stuff though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use solvents like AF Labelclene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2023-09-30T20:12:24.360" LastActivityDate="2023-09-30T20:12:24.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-01T08:17:59.640" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://5.imimg.com/data5/UA/FI/MY-21506777/4-500x500.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Text&quot; /&gt;&#xA;i wanted to know the pattern for sewing the rounded neck of this mens thobe, can someone send me a pattern or give me some clue about it, thanks in regard,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17603" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T08:17:59.640" Title="How to sew a rounded neckline on a men's thobe?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|pattern-drafting|measurements|clothing-fitting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2023-10-05T19:07:34.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11812" CreationDate="2023-10-01T20:58:52.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you want something like this, I take it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1x7vU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1x7vU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/timmelling/28917298321&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the colours are mostly defined by the reflection, your requirement of the light source being above the beetle doesn't say much about how the colours on the beetle are perceived, so I'll assume it is also observed from above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical colours are caused by iridescence, which makes it so colours change depending on the viewing angle and angle of incidence of light.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Note that what colours you see are those of the sky reflected (in slightly altered hues)—the dark parts don't reflect enough light to change the colour, and you can see a reflection of what are possibly trees on the sides of the dung beetle. If the carapace will remain in a single area, take this into account, and imagine how the reflections change based on that area (e.g. in front of a window looking outside, the blue hue would be visible towards the lit side of the carapace).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will work for a static effect is to paint the carapace black, then spray-paint a (greenish) blue gradient towards the centre or zenith of the carapace. Smoother areas can be spray-painted further away from the surface, and irregular surfaces might require more precise and closer spraying, and possibly manual brush work.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You can imitate a striated structure like the one seen in the image above by leaving a few stripes black. What will make the effect pop is to have a more saturated blue colour towards one side of the shield, and a saturated green towards another (you can see this most clearly along the 'collar' of the beetle, and other detailed areas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards, I'd still recommend using a gloss varnish to cover it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the varnish is really glossy, you might even consider painting the carapace black and &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; applying a glossy varnish afterwards, so the reflections will actually change in real-time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T20:58:52.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-03T03:01:39.940" Score="1" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I securely attach two rings to each other with a paracord?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIBOl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIBOl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;attach paracord between two rings&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17614" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T20:04:43.900" Title="How do I securely tie a paracord between two rings?" Tags="|knots|macrame|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11876" CreationDate="2023-10-04T02:10:32.037" Score="4" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in upcycling second-hand crockery by reglazing it, for example the porcelain plates, bowls, and cups that are abundant in second-hand stores. I need a way to remove the outer glaze to re-expose the porous surface of the underlying fired clay so that fresh glaze can be applied&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read about people using physical methods to remove fired glaze: sandpaper, grinders, sandblasting (eg. &lt;a href=&quot;https://potterycrafters.com/how-to-remove-glaze-from-pottery/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of using strong acids or bases to remove fired glaze is suggested in a Ceramic Arts Daily forum post &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/966-yikes-glaze-removal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, with no clear answer about whether it would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodium hydroxide is a readily-available strong base that slowly dissolves silica glass (the main component of most ceramic glazes). According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/53760/concentration-of-naoh-to-dissolve-glass&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on Chemistry Stack Exchange a 1 mol/L concentration of NaOH at 100˚C will remove ~1 micron of borosilicate glass over 1 hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unable to find an exact number for the usual thickness of glaze on porcelain crockery but I'd estimate that it tends to be in the hundreds of microns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given appropriate concentration, time and temperature, would using sodium hydroxide to remove fired glaze allow me to prepare porcelain crockery for reglazing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17619" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T15:44:02.353" Title="Can I use sodium hydroxide to remove glaze from fired pottery?" Tags="|pottery|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11875" CreationDate="2023-10-04T07:42:16.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't sound very feasible, for a few reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Mol/l is quite a concentrated solution of  NaOH, and will do nasty things to your skin, then you want to boil it as well, so it will splash. I've worked in chemistry labs, so I would do it, but I'd be very careful indeed around choosing suitable gloves and other skin covering (lab coats are good because they protect your arms but can be removed quickly if something soaks through them).  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2011-150/pdfs/2011-150.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;'s some safety information from the US CDC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you still only get etch rates of 1µm/hour, and a layer which I estimate (and a quick search agrees) to be in the high tens of microns.  So to strip the layer, you'd need to boil, maintaining the concentration against evaporation and reaction, for a couple of days in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The etch rate will increase rapidly at higher concentrations, and at 100°C you can get to about a 9 molar solution.  The risks go up as well.  And you need a reasonable volume to maintain the concentration and allow movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to consider the end of the process.  Glaze thickness isn't constant, and most glazed ceramics have unglazed regions (e.g. a ring on the bottom of a cup).  What does a concentrated NaOH solution do to unglazed ceramic.  Cosmetic damage to an unglazed out-of-sight bit is one thing, but when you've etched the glaze off the most visible areas, there will still be some left where it went on thicker (sticking with a cup, at the join to the handle, and quite possible in the bottom).  I'd expect some uneven etching of the unglazed surface, but that's a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a pattern under the glaze, this will have soaked into the clay to some extent, so won't be (completely) removed with the glaze.  That may or may not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to go down this route, it might just barely be viable as a finishing step after mechanically removing the majority of the glaze, depending on whether the NaOH solution attacks the ceramic itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2023-10-04T15:44:02.353" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T15:44:02.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11870" CreationDate="2023-10-04T20:16:07.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any first-hand experience, but here are someconsiderations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oilcloth is &lt;strong&gt;heavy&lt;/strong&gt;! You need a sturdy foundation fabric that can carry the weight without just ripping. So a lightweight (like 70 g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;) blouse cotton is out of the question. OTOH using a very thick and heavy fabric adds even more weight to the finished oilcloth without any positive effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fabric should be woven tight enough not to have any visible holes (like muslin or cheesecloth).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fabric should probably be woven in &amp;quot;canvas weave&amp;quot; (one thread goes over on, under one, over one, etc). Other weaves like twill or satin have one thread go over several others, under one or several, over several etc. This gives water more opportunity to seep through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fabric must be thick enough to not rip when it's oiled. Something like old bedsheets, tablecloths or tent canvas should do fine. Denim is already on the heavy side of the options, outdoor tarp or furniture fabric is probably much too stiff and heavy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things considered, I would probably use a 100 - 130 g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; cotton instead of a heavier canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Although oilcloth was traditionally made with beeswax and/or oils, modern alternatives use simple construction silicone. It's extremely flexible, water repelling and more lightweight than traditional oilcloth. If you're interested, here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/z_R0gEDZhAI?si=QmEgrrXKx4KfDELh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a YouTube video by NightHawkInLight&lt;/a&gt; (not affiliated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-10-04T20:16:07.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-05T08:29:18.503" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;For one of my art hobby projects, I want to create a miniature coconut tree trunk closely resembling an actual coconut tree. Below is a close-up image for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HsjpL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HsjpL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photograph of coconut tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of using some kind of leather or fabric which will be put around a flexible tube. I'm looking for some material that will be flexible enough to bend along with the inner tube to a certain degree. However, I'm not sure how to get the leather/fabric resemble the trunk texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone has some ideas for it, that would be immensely helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate the responses in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17621" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-10-05T13:45:10.910" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T17:06:40.770" Title="How to create a coconut tree trunk?" Tags="|material-selection|technique-selection|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-05T16:58:31.460" Score="2" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been doing some experiments with cymatic patterns in liquid using bass frequencies. I'm finding that the patterns appear on the top surface of a liquid, such that a pattern can only be displayed vertically, viewing it from the top down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any medium that could be used to display a cymatics pattern horizontally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2023-10-05T16:58:31.460" Title="Medium for Horizontal Display of Cymatics Patterns" Tags="|material-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-08T23:10:53.927" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a pumpkin sign that is secured to a dowel. I want to put it in a pot on my porch. What is the best option to keep it straight and secure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of using concrete or stones, but I am leaning towards making a clay bottom attaching that to wood, and then adding some sand and rock to help out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17645" LastEditorUserId="1120" LastEditDate="2023-10-09T15:26:29.047" LastActivityDate="2023-10-09T15:26:29.047" Title="How can I stabilize a sign on a dowel in a pot?" Tags="|material-selection|wood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11883" CreationDate="2023-10-09T00:06:24.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you ask should not be particularly difficult, but it depends on your material selection. Depth of pot and length of dowel may be the most important aspects. A photo would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that stones surrounding the dowel will provide for a secure mount, especially if you vibrate the pot by tapping on it (gently if clay) until the stones settle into place. Using stones alone is likely to be successful and will provide for easy removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go one step beyond, insert a piece of scrap plastic pipe of sufficient diameter to hold the dowel. This may allow the sign to rotate in the wind. If that is not desired, omit the plastic pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-10-09T00:06:24.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11896" CreationDate="2023-10-10T00:00:24.933" Score="6" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a few different projects (arcade stick, electronics charging station, dice tower…) using laser-cut oak veneer MDF. (The cutting will be done by an online service.) I know from a previous arcade stick build that the cut edges of the MDF wear very quickly. What can I do to both protect the edges from wear, and make them look nice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17649" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T16:14:03.377" Title="How can I nicely protect &amp; finish the edges of laser-cut MDF?" Tags="|wood|finishing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-10T00:12:28.337" Score="3" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a purse from a plastic Halloween cauldron by creating a drawstring opening and gluing/adhering it to the inside rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawstring opening is only to prevent items from falling out of the cauldon, and will not need to hold any weight (unless the cauldron is turned upside down with things inside it, which shouldn't happen often if at all). I am planning to poke holes in the side and screw in hardware to create a handle or shoulder strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVad3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVad3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Plastic cauldron&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic of the cauldron bucket is rather thin and I do not want something that could potentially melt or warp the plastic due to thermal reaction of the adhesive. I am also not exactly sure what type of plastic it is made out of, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.partycity.com/small-black-cauldron-35432.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as the description on the website where I bought it simply says &amp;quot;plastic&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best kind of adhesive to use for this project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2023-10-10T15:25:16.107" LastActivityDate="2023-10-15T18:35:47.430" Title="Adhesive or glue for attaching fabric to hard thin plastic" Tags="|adhesives|fabric|plastic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11886" CreationDate="2023-10-10T14:42:09.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to tackle a project like this, I'd start by making a full drawstring pouch to fit inside, rather than just an opening; with the thin material of the cauldron, having a greater surface area to adhere will help prevent against the glue failing and pulling loose--which is likely to happen regardless of the type of glue used. You didn't mention where you'd add the handle for the purse, but if it's meant to be part of the drawstring construction, having a full pouch would also prevent against losing any of the contents if and when the glue does fail, as all items would remain contained in the pouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To join the pieces, I'd use a &lt;strong&gt;spray adhesive&lt;/strong&gt; that indicates it's appropriate for plastics and coat the entire inside of the cauldron with that glue (using appropriate safety equipment as needed), then insert the pouch and press it against all sides of the cauldron to get as much of a full adhesion as possible. Again, we're &lt;strong&gt;maximizing the surface area that's glued down&lt;/strong&gt;, so the pouch should be as big as the interior, if not slightly larger, so it can be adhered to all sides without pulling away on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the handle is meant to be inserted through drilled holes, that changes the design considerations a bit; in this case, I might try creating the openings after gluing the pouch, and inserting the handle through both plastic and fabric. This would add an additional reinforcement to the connection between fabric and plastic, and would effectively negate any failure that might separate the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T14:42:09.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-10T17:48:58.963" Score="3" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an amatueur artist, dry paint and dust keeps getting caught up in my acrylic paintings when they are still wet.  Any help on what to do to avoid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXcd8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TXcd8m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dirt on painting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Click for a larger image&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17406" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-10-10T19:49:40.330" LastActivityDate="2023-10-11T06:27:32.977" Title="How to stop dust, dirt and dry paint sticking onto my paintings when drying?" Tags="|painting|paint|preservation|acrylic-paint|canvas|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11888" CreationDate="2023-10-10T19:48:01.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is always good to paint in dust-free environments, and/or in areas where there is little to no draft. You can opt to vacuum before painting, allowing time for the dust that gets swept up to settle first.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you're working on a working table that's full of other stuff, like unfinished projects, dust and dirt will easily collect, and any sudden movement can lift it up and move it around, and ruin a painting being worked on—take this into account, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for letting the works dry: with smaller paintings, I often let them dry hanging on a wall in a spot I know there will be little to no draft, or facing up in a drawer of a cupboard or cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;At times I've also used boxes to cover the drying paintings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-10-10T19:48:01.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11888" CreationDate="2023-10-11T06:27:32.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;em&gt;a lot of dust&lt;/em&gt; in your painting, so this answer assumes that you cleaned your work room of any visible dust on the floor and work surfaces as suggested by Joachim. If the problem persists after that, you should consider the flooring and furniture in the room you paint in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specks of dust look like they could come from an old carpet or the carpet-like flooring tiles commonly found in offices. Or maybe there are some old drapes on the windows that shed fibers. It could be a couch or armchair covered in velvety fabric that sheds fibers whenever someone sits down. Are you wearing clothes while painting  that might shed fibers as you move? Look around you for any textile and try to find the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep your brushes clean. I always put my fully dried brushes in a little cardboard box to avoid them collecting dust while not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-10-11T06:27:32.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-12T15:54:16.467" Score="1" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;My studio is in the basement of my house which is quite humid and there's no sunshine. As a result, it takes a long time for me to wait for my acrylic paintings to dry (one hour plus). Any suggestions on how to get the paint to dry quicker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17406" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2023-10-13T14:31:27.000" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T19:24:22.653" Title="Technique to make acrylic paint dry faster?" Tags="|painting|paint|acrylic-paint|canvas|drying|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11891" CreationDate="2023-10-13T05:52:21.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acrylic paints are already among the quickest drying paints there are and one hour really doesn't seem that much to me. Can't you just let the painting sit around for an hour undisturbed to dry? That seems like the easiest solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wrote in a different post that you use a hair dryer to speed up the drying. The first idea is to point the hair dryer at the back of the canvas instead of the front with the wet paint. That way you still blast dust around, but you don't blast it directly at the wet paint. You could also tip the canvas so the wet front is angled down during the drying process. Any dust particle floating around has less of a chance to land on a downward-facing surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, painting with dryer paints (less water / medium) obviously speeds up the drying, but certain techniques like wet-on-wet blending require a certain amount of moisture to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next best idea is to put the painting in a different environment to dry. That can be as simple as taking it into another room with less humidity and letting it sit there until it dries naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-10-13T05:52:21.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11891" CreationDate="2023-10-13T06:01:24.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your studio is humid, it may well benefit from a dehumidifer, to actually remove water from the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As these usually have a dust filter on the inlet, you could in theory direct the dry, slightly warm, output directly at the painting, but I suggest you don't. Instead rely mainly on drying the room a bit, and position things so the dehumidifier's fan gives you airflow around the painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's very humid in there, materials stored against the cold walls or floor may suffer from the damp. A dehumidifier would help with that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2023-10-16T19:24:22.653" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T19:24:22.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11902" CreationDate="2023-10-13T11:16:29.453" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been exploring the world of paint by numbers through NumeralPaint kits and am quite fascinated by the potential for artistic expression. I am currently on a quest to discover ways to achieve texture variation within these structured frameworks. Has anyone experimented with mixing mediums or applying different brush strokes to create a more dynamic texture using NumeralPaint kits? I am eager to learn from your experiences and possibly incorporate some new techniques in my next project. Your insights will be highly valued&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zlkQx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16881" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T06:41:36.073" Title="Techniques for Achieving Texture Variation with NumeralPaint Kits?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|oil-paint|paint-brushes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11885" CreationDate="2023-10-14T09:53:16.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applying an edge banding tape made of veneer or PVC can not only cover the cut edges but also provide a smooth, finished look. Ensure to choose a banding material that matches or complements your MDF veneer for a seamless appearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sealing the edges with a wood sealant or a sanding sealer can&#xA;provide a barrier against wear and tear. It also prepares the&#xA;surface for further finishing steps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanding the edges smooth and then applying a high-quality paint or&#xA;lacquer can drastically improve the appearance and durability. The&#xA;paint acts as a protective layer against wear while giving a&#xA;polished look.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coating the edges with epoxy resin creates a hard, glossy surface&#xA;that is both attractive and durable. It's a more labor-intensive&#xA;option but offers a high level of protection and a professional&#xA;finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good varnish can provide a protective coat, enhancing the natural look of the oak veneer MDF. Opt for a clear varnish to retain the wood aesthetics or a tinted one to add some color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill any imperfections on the edges with wood filler, sand smooth,&#xA;then apply a quality primer. This will create a solid base for&#xA;painting or varnishing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T-molding is a plastic edging that can be installed on the cut edges of MDF. It's available in various colors and styles, providing both protection and a clean finished look.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these methods can be employed based on the level of finish and protection you desire. You may even combine a few of these techniques to achieve a superior finish that will stand the test of time, ensuring your arcade stick, electronics charging station, and dice tower projects not only look appealing but remain sturdy and wear-resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16881" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2023-10-16T16:14:03.377" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T16:14:03.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11900" CreationDate="2023-10-14T14:58:29.687" Score="4" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new-ish to sewing and do so purely on a practical/utilitarian basis (e.g. patching an old pair of jeans so I don't have to buy a new pair).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of old cotton t-shirts I'd like to repurpose, including using pieces to patch over holes of current use t-shirts as well as cutting the old one into 6&amp;quot; x 6&amp;quot; (or so) squares and sewing them together for some handy double-layered cleaning, wiping, polishing, and/or (wood) staining pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the sewing machine I use -- Babylock Zest -- seems to not want to perform this (what I would have thought was a) pretty basic sewing task...the thread keeps getting all bound up, generally below deck in and around the bobbin area.  I have asked a few people and gotten comments like &amp;quot;your bobbin's messed up&amp;quot; (it's not...it works just fine on pretty much any other fabric) or &amp;quot;you're using the wrong thread&amp;quot; (it's just basic, standard cotton thread, so...?) or other comments that just don't track with my experience with sewing and this particular machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that it may be the material itself, although it is just standard cotton t-shirt fabric, but apparently it is (might be) a &amp;quot;knit&amp;quot;.  &lt;strong&gt;So my question is&lt;/strong&gt; does this explanation make sense?  i.e. Can a fabric so basic and ubiquitous as a t-shirt create issues when trying to sew it together to another one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17671" LastActivityDate="2023-10-15T13:54:58.610" Title="Difficulty in Sewing T-Shirt Material Together" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-14T19:18:35.203" Score="0" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have come across the wire mesh/fencing shown in the image at a residence in Johannesburg, South Africa that likely dates from the early 20th century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in finding out the original brand of the maker, the period of production and any information on the specific manufacturing process for this material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is different from regular woven or hinge joint fencing in that the material is much heavier, perhaps 2.5 mm thick, and is made using a technique that does not require a full loom, and locks each individual crossing positively in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A regular image search finds any number of examples of fencing, but none of the same style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e103F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e103F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unusual woven wire mesh/fence&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17451" LastActivityDate="2023-10-14T19:18:35.203" Title="What is the brand, period and manufacturing process for unusual style of wire mesh/fencing?" Tags="|wire|fencing|steel|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11897" CreationDate="2023-10-15T13:54:58.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, yes, t-shirts utilize different techniques to sew up well on a machine than woven fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T-shirts are made of knit fabrics - cotton and/or polyester. sometimes there will be more stretch on one knit versus another knit. When using a machine to sew knits, be sure to use the correct needle and if possible a walking foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your needle needs to be for knit fabric. The difference between knit needles and woven needles is the tip. Knit needles are rounded whereas woven needles are sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest fix is to use a walking foot. Along with the bottom feet the walking foot moves the fabric uniformly and prevents the thread from bunching up on the underside. {side note - My walking foot set me free to sew knits and make lots of t-shirt quilts and garments without interfacing.}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Workarounds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a walking foot, a trick with knits is to sew using a zigzag stitch, this helps the machine feed the stretch. You need to work with the presser foot to move the fabric past the needle. If your machine allows, you may be able to loosen the tension of the presser foot. Or a “teflon” (plastic) foot allows fabrics and synthetics (like vinyl) to feed smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to use interfacing to provide structure to the knit. This works especially well when patch-working for quilts. It also helps to stitch wovens and knits together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2023-10-15T13:54:58.610" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11886" CreationDate="2023-10-15T18:35:47.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any glue that comes in a &amp;quot;tacky&amp;quot; air drying form would be a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the glues that are typically clear, foul smelling, and are sold in squeezable tubes that are applied directly to a surface, that forms little strands if you dab it with your finger before it's fully dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the viscous Evostick product lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This glue type can penetrate fabrics and form bridges in gaps between threads and hard surfaces. So you get a much higher level of contact than with the more liquid glues (classic superglue, for example), and they remain slightly flexible so their bond doesn't break if flexed slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have the added bonus that they can be spread by a spatchuler for a much longer period than hot glues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2023-10-15T18:35:47.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11894" CreationDate="2023-10-16T06:41:36.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal experience with the paint by numbers kits is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They contain watery paints that deliberately have a uniform flat texture. They are probably supposed to resemble an Aquarelle painting instead of an oil painting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They contain cheap paints. Some cannot even achieve full coverage in one pass and have to be applied several times. Mixing such cheap paints with texture medium makes them even more transparent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a stiffer brush usually only leads to an untidy painting, but the watery paints cannot pick up any texture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trying to dry the paints out will lead to disaster. Sooner or later you will forget that you left them open and once they dry completely they are water resistant and cannot be diluted again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So trying to give the paints contained in such a kit more texture is destined to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, you could apply an acrylic texture medium on top of the dried paint. But please test this technique on some scraps before you apply it to your favorite painting. You may not like the way it looks in the end because the medium is transparent and the color is only at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next best option is to look for paint by numbers kits with oil paints. These tend to have a thicker consistency which allows you to apply texture. But be aware that oil paints take a long time to dry and have a strong odor. It takes some getting used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also kits with acrylic paints available specifically marketed for adults. I expect them to be more expensive than the usual kits and have paints with a slightly thicker consistency. I personally had one such kit that even had you mix paints to achieve a more professional result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But honestly, from that moment there's only a small step to buying some high quality paints and cardboard canvas and creating your own paintings. You can still print or draw an inspiration image as a template, but you don't have to throw money at companies to do the printing for you. That is exactly how I made the transition from paint by numbers to painting my own paintings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last word towards paint quality:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Don't buy cheap tubs from a home decor store or children's paints. Those are just as bad as the ones in the paint by numbers kits. You'll want to go to a hobby or artists store and get the medium priced paints. They are often called &amp;quot;college&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;studio&amp;quot; grade (as opposed to &amp;quot;artist&amp;quot; grade) and have a much thicker consistency and much better coverage than the cheap stuff. And you don't need to buy exactly the same colors as in a kit, you can mix most of them from only a handful of paints. It's worth getting help from a shop assistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T06:41:36.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11879" CreationDate="2023-10-16T16:05:14.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at textured faux leathers, they come in a huge variety of patterns and colors. The gator skin ones look fairly similar to the tree bark in your photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T16:05:14.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11874" CreationDate="2023-10-16T17:48:43.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are looking for a &lt;strong&gt;ring hitch&lt;/strong&gt;. The problem is ring hitches are single lead and you have two. I would recommend making the same Sling Hitch as you did with the first ring and join the two ends of the cord somewhere in the middle. This would be the most secure way to attach the rings. Plus you can easily adjust the length between the rings this way before finishing the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what do you do with the loose ends in the middle? You will need a &lt;strong&gt;bend&lt;/strong&gt; to join the two cords together. There are a lot of bends but the &lt;em&gt;Double Harness Bend&lt;/em&gt; (illustrated below) seems like a good candidate. When drawn tight you can trim the ends off and you will have a knot that will stay tied.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jATPv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jATPv.png&quot; alt=&quot;illustration of double harness knot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want two cords to tie to the second ring you would simply use two ring hitches. Again, there are many possible knots that can be used so it would be a matter of personal taste and maybe some experimentation to get the one that works for you. However this would never be as strong as two sling hitches since that kind of knot cannot unravel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of ways to tie things together and instead of a simple bend you may want a something more decorative. There are simply too many choices to list and making knots can get complicated. I recommend checking out &lt;strong&gt;The Asheley Book of Knots&lt;/strong&gt; which is an exhaustive yet accessible reference on knot making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2023-10-16T20:04:43.900" LastActivityDate="2023-10-16T20:04:43.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-17T11:27:58.450" Score="3" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to coat fluorescent PLA in clear, transparent varnish, and I am looking for a product that does not block UV rays. Is there anything like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17685" LastActivityDate="2023-10-17T19:06:23.857" Title="UV permeable transparent varnish for PLA" Tags="|material-selection|painting|varnish|transparency|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11905" CreationDate="2023-10-17T15:23:12.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like both acrylic and polyurethane should transmit near UV - the sort of UV you need. Getting actual transmission spectra of specific varnish products isn't likely to happen, but I've skimmed a few papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acrylic varnish is commonly used on PLA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be careful though &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to get a UV-curing product (you're unlikely to do this by accident), but also not to get one designed to slow the effects of UV of the item, as some wood varnishes are supposed to do.this is a selling point, so you'll need to look for varnishes that say nothing about UV - and probably run a test to be certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2023-10-17T19:06:23.857" LastActivityDate="2023-10-17T19:06:23.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3181" CreationDate="2023-10-18T02:40:40.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that breaking a skein down into balls helps when using multiple working yarns (for instance, with color changes) helps keep the working yarns manageable. Ever tried changing between four difference skeins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17689" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T02:40:40.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11133" CreationDate="2023-10-18T02:48:12.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can create a denser fabric by doing several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decreasing the size of the hook&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping more tension on the working yarn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using yarn that has more fluff/squishy to it. With more tension, it will thin as your working, then fluff back out after the tension is off (reducing the airy-ness of the fabric).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For #4/Worsted weight yarn, I tend towards a 3.5 mm or 3.75 mm hook for less airy fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17689" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2023-10-18T14:34:19.900" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T14:34:19.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10720" CreationDate="2023-10-18T02:58:12.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2dc-cluster 5 = 2 DC clustered together in the same stitch, done over the next five stitches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sc3inc over Ch. = Single Crochet 3 times in the same stitch, BUT these SC should be done AROUND the chain from the previous row instead of through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17689" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T02:58:12.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11827" CreationDate="2023-10-18T09:26:37.293" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adhering plastic flowers to a spray-painted surface can indeed be challenging due to the smooth and non-porous nature of the materials. Here are some steps and tips that might help in ensuring a better bond:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Surface Preparation: Sanding: Begin by lightly sanding the area of the cigar box where you plan to attach the flowers. Use a fine-grit sandpaper (like 220-grit) to create a rougher surface which will help the adhesive bond better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Cleaning: Clean the surface thoroughly with rubbing alcohol to remove any dust, grease, or residues from the spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Adhesive Selection: Although you've tried various adhesives, there might be others that could work better. Consider using a two-part epoxy adhesive, which is known for its strong bonding capabilities on a variety of materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Application: Mix the epoxy adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions.&#xA;Apply a thin layer of epoxy to both the cigar box and the base of the plastic flowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press the flowers onto the box firmly and hold in place until the epoxy sets (usually takes a few minutes, but refer to the epoxy instructions for exact curing times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Clamping: If possible, use clamps to hold the flowers in place while the epoxy cures. This will ensure a strong bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Curing Time: Allow the epoxy to cure completely before handling the box. Full curing time may vary, so check the manufacturer's instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional Support: If the flowers are heavy or the bond still seems weak, consider adding additional support like a clear backing material or mounting tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Professional Advice: If the issue persists, consider consulting with a local crafts store or a professional in the adhesive industry for more personalized advice.&#xA;Each adhesive behaves differently on various materials, and sometimes a bit of experimentation is needed to find the right solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16881" LastActivityDate="2023-10-18T09:26:37.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-19T06:58:01.363" Score="4" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a new painting and prepared the canvas with several thin layers of acrylic paint to create a solid black background which I then let dry for a couple of days. I then began painting over it with oils. Five days after applying the acrylic layer, I was removing a bit of the oil paint using oil of spike lavender which quite unexpectedly also removed much of the underlying acrylic paint. The acrylic layer is now a bit tacky in that spot and some of the oil paint has gotten mixed into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I safely continue to paint/mix the oil paint over and into this acrylic/oil combo? Or should I do my best to scrape off all the paint from the compromised area before painting over it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you can't paint acrylics over oils as the acrylic layer will crack and you can't mix them due to the evaporation vs polymerization mechanisms of the different paints, but technically the acrylic paint was dry. The solvent caused it to break down, but there should be a negligible amount of actual water in the paint itself. Since the acrylic paints (when dry) seem to just be polymerized -acrylates and &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot; oil paints are polymerized fatty acids, would mixing a water-free acrylic paint with oil paints using a non-water solvent be roughly equivalent to (somehow) mixing cured oil paint with wet oils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And moreover, will this lead to excessive cracking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17693" LastEditorUserId="17693" LastEditDate="2023-10-19T07:00:24.963" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T17:07:57.300" Title="Can &quot;dry&quot; acrylic paint be safely mixed with oil paints?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-20T15:12:41.407" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been all over the Internet looking at reamers, cone grinders, cone sanders, tapered wheel polishers and more, and I never seem to find a solution.  Everything is too small, too large or the angle is too far off.&#xA;I have a need to drill tapered holes in 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic sheet for #10 rubber stoppers, which are 50mm in diameter at their largest and 42mm at the narrowest.&#xA;I need the hole to exactly match the slope of the stopper, which I calculated to be 9.09 degrees, or, more simply, if the smaller diameter is 43mm and the larger diameter is 47mm, that's almost perfectly the slope of the stopper.&#xA;I can drill the 43mm hole with an adjustable bit I have.  What I need help with is a method to taper the hole out from there.  Maybe this means spinning something inside the 43mm hole and bringing the top out to 47mm.  Any ideas (without spending too much money) on achieving this?  Thanks so much in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17695" LastEditorUserId="17695" LastEditDate="2023-10-20T18:57:48.757" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T19:09:01.850" Title="Tapering a 43mm hole in 1/2&quot; acrylic sheet out to 47mm" Tags="|plastic|cutting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-21T18:53:35.803" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I printed a picture from my computer on regular printer paper. I then put a coat of Mod Podge on a glass block and glued the picture to it, but there were bubbles in the picture. While I'm trying to get the bubbles out, the paper keeps tearing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;How can I stop that from happening; what am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17697" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-10-22T10:07:41.397" LastActivityDate="2023-11-25T13:07:00.910" Title="Getting bubbles out of a print glued to glass" Tags="|adhesives|paper|glass|technique-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-21T22:19:18.537" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have spray-painted a lightly sanded wooden ornament using Aerosal, but have noticed that the wood has lost colour in some areas after  and general handling once fully dryed. Wanted to know if there was a recommended sealer to use after i have spray painted the surface or varnish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17406" LastEditorUserId="17406" LastEditDate="2023-10-24T18:48:54.983" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T18:48:54.983" Title="Sealer for wooden ornaments?" Tags="|painting|paint|wood|varnish|sealer|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11912" CreationDate="2023-10-24T17:38:39.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your comment presents the use of a drill press. This may turn your project into something that can be completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that you MUST clamp your work piece securely. Acrylic plastic is prone to &amp;quot;catching&amp;quot; and cracking, so use recommended practices to drill a pilot hole. The diameter of the hole will depend on the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach a piece of tool steel to an arbor/shaft, at the angle you have determined to provide your desired hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This portion may be best accomplished by using the services of a qualified shop. A good welding operation may be able to get the tool made in short order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r1EbV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r1EbV.png&quot; alt=&quot;tapered reamer mock up&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;image created by OP (me) using &lt;a href=&quot;https://openscad.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenSCAD&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I knocked this out to better present the concept. The angle shows is 9.09 degrees from vertical. The dimensions are arbitrary, but it should be clear that if the pilot hole is smaller than the base of the reamer, you'll be in trouble. I suppose I could have extended the triangle to a more narrow point, but this should give you a starting point. I did not scale this cutter to match your 43/47 mm dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that the cutting edges of the reamer are at an angle to the radius of the tool. This prevents the trailing edge from becoming a cutting edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T17:38:39.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11912" CreationDate="2023-10-24T19:09:01.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is experimental, but it's what I would do, considering acrylic isn't very hard. The goal is to make a rotary sanding block with the right taper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First drill to the small diameter. Then take a rubber bung of the right size and taper, ready-bored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run a bolt through the bore, making sure to use one that's a tight fit, and 4-5cm (a couple of inches) longer than the bung. The bolt head should be at the narrow end, with a large (mudguard/repair/penny) washer under it. At the wide end, another washer and two nuts, so everything is locked together solidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cover the bung smoothly and as thoroughly as you can with a single piece of coarse wet &amp;amp; dry sandpaper (silicon carbide paper). A gap is better than an overlap. Secure the workpiece and put the home-made tool in the drill press. Spin it up gently, wet the workpiece and sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're likely to have to change the sandpaper a couple of times, and finish with a finer grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest potential issue I can see is if the hole on a pre-bored bung isn't central. With a slightly smaller bolt it may be possible to centre it up. Alternatively make sure th drill is held square to the workpiece but allow them to move relative to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-10-24T19:09:01.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11913" CreationDate="2023-10-25T07:11:54.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case it's probably easiest to start over. Cleaning the glass and printing the picture again shouldn't be too much of a problem. You should also use a flat tool to push out air bubbles (any plastic (credit) card or a window wiper will do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, apply a slightly thicker coat of mod podge to the back of the paper than you stricktly need. The excess will help you push out air bubbles. The paper will start curling in on itself from the moisture, but give it some more time and it should straighten out again. Just take care that it cannot roll up and touch itself because that's very hard to untangle again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carefully pick up the prepared picture and hold it horizontally. Let only the very bottom of the paper touch the glass. Adjust it to make sure it's straight and in the desired position. Then start pushing the paper towards the glass so it starts curling upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once about one inch of the paper touches the glass, start gently pushing the excess glue and air out from under that section with a credit card or glass wiper. Make sure not to tear the paper. Push another inch of paper against the glass and push glue and air out again. Repeat this until the entire paper is glued on. Then wipe off the excess glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best image I could find is in German, but I think you can understand the process. Step 3 shows you how to gradually push the paper against the glass and push air out with a tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDlmE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDlmE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sanier.de/holz/moebel-mit-folie-bekleben&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-10-26T12:53:10.877" LastActivityDate="2023-10-26T12:53:10.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11929" CreationDate="2023-10-25T09:59:31.217" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this gold chain with these specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Designed like flexible springs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looks enormous but only weighs around 3.66 grams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It won't break. It won't rupture.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But it could get damaged by getting distorted in shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has a higher price for manual labor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the name of this chain design? Are there any technical details about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngPvh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngPvh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slide&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10045" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-10-25T12:44:46.087" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T19:06:20.047" Title="What's the name of this gold chain designed very flexible like a spring" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11930" CreationDate="2023-10-26T03:43:13.737" Score="1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to make a DIY S'mores costume, and I was wondering if anyone had advice on what spray paint color would match the color of a graham cracker. Any input and or advice regarding this would be much appreciated! Thanks so much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17720" LastActivityDate="2023-11-01T14:12:33.127" Title="In Need of Advice for Making a DIY S'mores Costume" Tags="|costume-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-28T23:53:04.270" Score="1" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m planning on creating cards - I have plenty of PNG’s saved on my desktop and I want to print them off and than use them to create cards - I have card stock for the base of my cards, what I’m wondering is what type of paper should I print on to use to attach to my card bases. I want what I print out to be able to standup solid for the fronts of my cards and some will be used for 3D applications.&#xA;Thank you and have a great day&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17736" LastActivityDate="2023-10-28T23:53:04.270" Title="Paper Selection" Tags="|paper|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2023-11-03T07:47:16.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-10-29T12:14:21.460" Score="2" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered cork backed coasters with what looks like vinyl top.  I'd like to attach an image from a magazine but it needs to be water/heat proof. Any suggestion as who what medium I could use. I only have one spare to practice on so would need a definitive answer.  Thanks so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17741" LastActivityDate="2023-10-30T10:34:00.280" Title="how to attach a magazine clipping to a vinyl coaster" Tags="|decoupage-glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11926" CreationDate="2023-10-30T10:34:00.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Epoxy comes to my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on the specific product, epoxy becomes glass clear and is well suited to enclose objects like pictures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can glue stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It becomes very hard and stable (resistant against heat and chemicals) when it's fully cured.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can find many tutorials online on how to use it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy can be hard to work with (if you want to avoid air bubbles and smudges and a general mess)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can have negative effects on your health like causing allergic reactions and irritate your airways (while you're working with it. Once it's cured it has no negative health effects)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cured epoxy tends to accumulate micro scratches easily, especially when objects like mugs are repeatedly put on it. That will give it a matte and only semi-transparent surface over time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epoxy isn't very cheap, especially if you want the &amp;quot;crystal clear&amp;quot; stuff that doesn't yellow over time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;epoxy doesn't stick well to vinyl&lt;/strong&gt;. If you cover the coasters anyways with other pictures, I would remove the vinyl. To give the coasters a smooth surface, I would first pour a thin layer of clear epoxy and let it cure completely. Then I would pour a second layer that contains the picture on top. You could also add pigments, paints or inks to the first epoxy layer if you want to tint the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next best idea I have is laminating the entire coaster including the picture. However, that probably requires a vacuum sealing rack, which is still such a niche product that even most maker spaces / open workshops don't have one. I also don't have any first-hand experience about how heat resistant the laminating foil is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about alternatives, but all that I could think of have at least one property that makes them unsuitable in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mod Podge is not heat resistant. It becomes gummy when heated and probably sticks the coaster to the underside of the mug / glass temporarily. Very annoying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear acrylics medium is pretty much like Mod Podge. It cures water resistant, but it never becomes &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; enough to not stick to mugs or glasses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other glues like white glue / Elmers glue are not water resistant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Super glue becomes hard, but also very brittle. I suspect it would chip off after a short while of being used. It can also turn milky white while curing if there's too much moisture in the air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-10-30T10:34:00.280" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7885" CreationDate="2023-10-31T17:16:44.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes melt mine, just a little and mix a small amount of Vaseline with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17749" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T17:16:44.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11919" CreationDate="2023-10-31T19:06:20.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a Mesh Woven Braided Chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17509" LastActivityDate="2023-10-31T19:06:20.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11923" CreationDate="2023-11-01T14:12:33.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Benjamin Moore makes spray paint in the shade 1113 Graham Cracker. I think that will be your best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17509" LastActivityDate="2023-11-01T14:12:33.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-02T17:23:27.803" Score="7" ViewCount="5566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a plain cotton t-shirt that I need to crop for a costume. I was wondering what is the best method to cropping it without it potentially fraying without a sewing machine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17509" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T18:51:25.270" Title="How to crop a T-shirt without it fraying" Tags="|sewing|cutting|clothing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11931" CreationDate="2023-11-02T18:53:27.707" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T-Shirt fabric does not fray.&lt;/strong&gt; Fraying is a property of woven fabrics; most t-shirts are made of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/sewing-with-jersey/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;jersey knit that resists fraying&lt;/a&gt;. It may shed a few loose pieces, but it's a very resilient fabric that will stay intact when cut. The best option to crop a shirt is to cut it a bit longer than you want, then pull on the fabric perpendicular to the edges. This will curl it up on itself, bringing it up to the length you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resistance to fraying is sufficient that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fiberartsy.com/how-to-make-tshirt-yarn/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;old t-shirts can be used to make yarn&lt;/a&gt; with nothing more than cutting the fabric into a long strip, then stretching it to roll it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2023-11-02T18:53:27.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11931" CreationDate="2023-11-03T07:31:59.420" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything Allison C mentioned in their answer is correct, but if you don't want the t-shirt to curl up at the edge, you can try iron-on interfacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default interfacing is non-stretch and coated on one side with a kind of hot-melt glue. If your t-shirt is oversized and you can manage to put it on without stretching it, this might work your you. There's also stretchy iron-on interfacing, but it's less stretchy than t-shirt fabric in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should apply the interfacing before cutting the shirt. Simply turn the shirt inside out and lay it flat on an ironing board or other heat resistant surface. Lay a strip of interfacing (I suggest roughly 2 inches / 5 cm wide) over where you plan to crop the shirt with the glue facing down and press it with a heated iron. Don't push the iron over the interfacing, but press it straight down, lift it up and press it into the next spot. After the shirt cooled down, cut it at the bottom of the interfacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-11-03T07:31:59.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11931" CreationDate="2023-11-03T07:38:17.927" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a flat edge similar to the bottom hem of a t-shirt, you can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.treasurie.com/how-to-use-hemming-tape/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;iron-on hemming tape&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a strip of extremely thin fabric, coated in glue that melts when you iron it. You just:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut the fabric slightly longer than the finished size you want. The allowance for the hem should be a little  more than the width of the hemming tape, which is typically 10-25mm (3/8-1&amp;quot;). Otherwise the glue will stick to your iron and you don't want that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fold it up inside with the tape in the fold, so the tape is against the wrong side of the fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;press firmly with a hot iron.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend pressing without the tape first, to set a crease in the right place, then let it cool a bit, slip the tape in, and iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-11-03T07:38:17.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-03T20:52:08.690" Score="2" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a bag out of thin, very old construction paper. It's about 5 inches tall, and 2 inches wide. I want to hand-sew a design with floss onto it. The floss is the texture of really tight yarn. I want to add beads. I'm only stitching the front. The back is going to be blank. What size needle should I use? I have sharp needles and doll needles. I've tried the doll needles, but they are too blunt and make too big a hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17771" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T11:21:50.703" Title="Needle size for sewing floss design onto construction paper" Tags="|sewing|paper|beads|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-04T14:12:25.133" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;This lumpy pattern developed on the breast panel of this wool suit that has been dry cleaned, ironed, and hanging in a closet next to other suits.  It has been a few months since I wore it, and I didn't notice this earlier although it may have developed slowly or suddenly.  Other things in the closet, and the pants hanging on the same hanger, do not have this damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDRQW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDRQW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17772" LastActivityDate="2023-11-04T14:12:25.133" Title="What kind of damage is this on a wool suit?" Tags="|fabric|wool|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2023-11-13T11:46:31.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-05T14:46:24.903" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to use PVA glue to stick a rectangular textured paper onto a wooden surface. I want the paper stuck completely flat with no unstuck corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know the best method of applying glue to a paper rectangle to stop any oozing out or other kinds of messiness, and to ensure the whole paper remains firmly stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to use &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.bostik.com/en-IE/products/stationery-craft/pva-glue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bostik PVA Glue&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdwXq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdwXqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Product image of a bottle of Bostik PVA Glue&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17406" LastEditorUserId="17406" LastEditDate="2023-11-06T20:56:58.483" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T06:40:02.463" Title="Advice for glueing paper onto wooden surface" Tags="|painting|adhesives|paper|wood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11931" CreationDate="2023-11-05T16:10:31.213" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple and easy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First things first, make the desired length of the crop with a pen or chalk (Use a ruler or tape to ensure accuracy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay the T-shirt flat on a cutting surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut along the marked line using a sharp scissors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To prevent fraying, consider these options:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;pinking shears&lt;/strong&gt; to trim the raw edge. The zigzag pattern created by pinking shears helps minimize fraying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply &lt;strong&gt;fabric glue&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;clear nail polish&lt;/strong&gt; along the cut edge. This helps seal the fabric and prevent fraying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a &lt;strong&gt;sewing machine&lt;/strong&gt;, you may finish the edge with a zigzag stitch or use a &lt;strong&gt;serger&lt;/strong&gt; to create a clean, finished edge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After applying one of the above methods to prevent fraying, gently stretch the cut edge to help it roll slightly inward and create a neat finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, wash and dry the T according to the garment's care instructions to further secure the cut edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-05T18:28:13.320" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T18:28:13.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11481" CreationDate="2023-11-05T16:22:41.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to get similar results from a high-quality PBk6 (Carbon black) or PBk7 (Lamp Black) acrylic paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may not achieve the same level of light absorption and perceiver depth as the most-hyped ultra-black paints like Vantablack or Black 3.0. These specialized ultra-black paints are formulated with unique properties that allow them to absorb an exceptionally high amount of light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the simple answer is, No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, here are some few tips to help you achieve the desired output:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply multiple &lt;strong&gt;thin&lt;/strong&gt; layers of black paint, allowing each layer to dry before adding the next.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opt for &lt;strong&gt;matte&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;satin&lt;/strong&gt; finishes rather than glossy ones (they absorb more light)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;consider manipulating the lighting conditions under which your artwork will be displayed. Place it under &lt;strong&gt;low or controlled lighting&lt;/strong&gt; env.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pairing the black paint with &lt;strong&gt;contrasting colors&lt;/strong&gt; or incorporating strong compositional elements can improve the visual enhancement of the overall effect of the black.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T16:22:41.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11936" CreationDate="2023-11-05T16:58:58.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;since the construction paper is delicate, using a sharp needle would be more suitable than a blunt one.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;choose a needle that matches the thickness of your floss without causing any damages to the thread.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;opt for smaller-sized needle to minimize the size of the holes and prevent excessive tearing. a needle size ranging from &lt;strong&gt;7 to 9&lt;/strong&gt; would be appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T16:58:58.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9023" CreationDate="2023-11-05T17:05:25.613" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditional water gilding is typically done using genuine gold or silver leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is possible to use imitation leaves for gilding, the may not yield the same result as genuine gold or silver. (imitation leaves are made from materials like brass or aluminum)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imitation leaves may end up with some minor differences in color, sheen or texture which may affect the final result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T17:05:25.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2023-11-05T18:21:33.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;try the following approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start by kneading the clay vigorously on a clean surface. After kneading for a while, repeatedly cut and compress the clay to further distribute the moisture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have access to the same type of dry clay, incorporate small amount of it into the sticky clay. Gradually add small portions while kneading and wedging, until the desired consistency achieved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you mentioned by yourself, adding a small amount of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) to water can create an alkaline solution. You may lightly spray the clay with this solution while kneading and wedging. Be cautious not to add too much of this solution, as it can make the clay too wet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastEditorUserId="17779" LastEditDate="2023-11-05T18:22:16.953" LastActivityDate="2023-11-05T18:22:16.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10523" CreationDate="2023-11-06T10:08:33.197" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very important, because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soap residue can create a barrier between the paint and the surface, hindering proper adhesion. Paint needs to bond directly with the surface to adhere well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soap residue can act as a contaminant on the surface. The remained thin film can interfere with the paint's ability to bond with the surface and may cause the paint to adhere unevenly or poorly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint adhesion is crucial for long-term durabilityof the finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T10:08:33.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10884" CreationDate="2023-11-06T10:24:38.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many cases decorative elements such as spirals and pearls were hand-carved by skilled craftsmen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJ6lW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJ6lW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ornate spirals and pearls on gilded frames were often hand-carved using &lt;strong&gt;chisels&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;gouges&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHJSw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHJSw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plenty of &lt;strong&gt;Time&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Skill&lt;/strong&gt; would do the trick, using &lt;strong&gt;specialized carving tools&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T10:24:38.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11724" CreationDate="2023-11-06T11:20:48.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main methods to achieve this output:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case binding with rounded spine&lt;/strong&gt;: The standards case binding style where the text block is sewn and adhered to cloth or board covers. The spine is rounded rather than flat for a cleaner aesthetic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;German case binding&lt;/strong&gt;: A variation of case binding where the spine and joint area are rounded and reinforced with cloth  for extra strength and flexibility, which is commonly used for heavy books.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;More details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In rounded spin (first method) the book pages are sewn and then rounded using a process called &lt;strong&gt;backing&lt;/strong&gt;. After backing the cover is attached usually by &lt;strong&gt;gluing&lt;/strong&gt; it to spine. this method is commonly used in &lt;strong&gt;all paperback&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;some hardcover&lt;/strong&gt; books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In German binding (case binding, hardcover binding), the book block (the sewn-together pages) are attached to the cover by means of &lt;strong&gt;endpapers&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;lining material&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Endpapers&lt;/strong&gt;: folded sheets that connect the book block to the cover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lining material&lt;/strong&gt;: Such as cloth or paper, is used to reinforce the connection between the book block and the cover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/voDsR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Graphic of 'Spine Linings' showing Japanese paper; Clothe spine linings; and Slips, tapes, or frayed-out cords&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/voDsR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Graphic of 'Spine Linings' showing Japanese paper; Clothe spine linings; and Slips, tapes, or frayed-out cords&quot; title=&quot;Graphic of 'Spine Linings' showing Japanese paper; Clothe spine linings; and Slips, tapes, or frayed-out cords&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Your questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a word for this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;strong&gt;German Binding&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;Case Binding&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Hardcover Binding&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How might I achieve this effect in manual bookbinding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare the book block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare the cover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach endpaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach the book block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create the spine lining&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish the cover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.philobiblon.com/casebd.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;German Case (Bradel) Binding&lt;/a&gt; useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastEditorUserId="9726" LastEditDate="2023-11-06T16:31:50.840" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T16:31:50.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11936" CreationDate="2023-11-06T11:21:50.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience I wouldn't try to sew or embroider any paper, especially not old, fragile paper. Any thread or floss is really thin compared to the width of paper, so any force you apply to the thread will rip the paper as if you cut it with a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on embroidering your bag, I highly recommend strengthening it with iron-on interfacing first. That's a fiber mesh with hot-melt glue on one surface that's intended to give thin fabric more stability. Since it's a mesh it can withstand more force before tearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage is that it can only be applied to flat material on an ironing board, so you'd have to disassemble your bag again. Or if you have enough paper, consider making a second bag and interface the paper before making a bag out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've done that, the best needle to embroider the bag is the thinnest you can fit your floss through. Some needles have round ears and others have narrow, elongated ears. Test your sharp needles with the elongated ears and find one that fits through the beads, then try if you can fit the floss through. If you only have needles with round ears, they work too, they just have a wider head and might get stuck in beads. Licking the very end of the floss makes it easier to thread it through the needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T11:21:50.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11938" CreationDate="2023-11-06T19:39:27.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the wood should be sealed. Sealing the wood helps the glue go on smoothly and prevents it from sinking in. It also prevents the acidity of the wood from leeching into the paper that is glued on. I recommend using an An acrylic polymer to seal the wood. Cover the wood with a layer of the acrylic polymer and let dry before gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, use a foam brush to apply a light coat of glue all over the wood, making sure to apply an even coat to avoid. You want the glue to look like a translucent white color on the wood. If it's clear, add more. If it looks completely white, spread it around a little thinner. Avoid big globs of glue because it can cause warping of the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the paper and line it up with where you want it. Then press it down in the position you want it on the wood. From there, gently run your palm across the paper to press it against the wood until all the air bubbles are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go over the paper with a small foam roller. This flattens the paper down and works out any air and excess glue. If glue does leak out of the sides of the paper then wipe it away with a paper towel. Roll over the paper a few times until the surface is completely even. Then let completely dry for a couple hours at the minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17509" LastActivityDate="2023-11-06T19:39:27.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8559" CreationDate="2023-11-07T13:52:19.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using tempera paints to create washes for miniature painting is a common technique. While acrylic washes are more commonly used, tempera paints can also be utilized effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using tempera paints as washes, you may need to &lt;strong&gt;thin them down further&lt;/strong&gt; to achieve the desired consistency (by adding water for example). By diluting the tempera paints, you can create washes that flow into crevices and recessed areas, enhancing shadowing and texture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While layering acrylic paints over tempera washes, it should generally work without any issues. Acrylic paints are compatible with tempera paints, and they should adhere well to the surface (A good idea is to test it on a small area before applying to the entire project).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealing your work with Mod Podge or polycrylic finishes should also be fine. If the washes are dry, they won't be affected by the sealing process (conduct a test on a small piece before you go into the entire project).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T13:52:19.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11251" CreationDate="2023-11-07T14:16:13.003" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is Yes, but there are some considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Altering the structure of the mattress may affect its overall support and integrity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may want to ensure that the remaining sections are still securely attached and won't shift or separate during use. Reinforcing the cut edges with fabric glue and hand sewing as you mentioned can help provide additional stability (But of course not as strong as them machine stitching).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filling material can vary depending on the filling product. Many futon mattresses contain a combination of poly-fill and recycled fill material. You may consider calling the manufacturer and ask for the exact combination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using foam toppers can help enhance the comfort and support of the sofa bed. Keep in mind to secure and integrate these additional layers properly with the modified futon mattress.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17779" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T14:16:13.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11931" CreationDate="2023-11-07T18:51:25.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i just did this to a bunch of my t-shirts this past summer! ive been really into crop tops lately anyway~&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i hand sewd french seams on the edge of all mine and theyve held really well through multiple machines washes. the side id do facing out just depends on my mood but basically it fully encases the seam so you dont have to worry about it coming apart from fraying or the weird stretchy rolly thing edges of unfinished knits do. it also has two seams sewn in so its very secure, lays flat and has two different finishing options. its the kindof seam you see in the inseam of jeans and a lot of denim materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one side kinda looks like its rolled up like how you would sleeves almost and the other side if you color match the thread well enough won't be super noticable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you want the rolly part out you'd cut the shirt using pinking shears with an extra 1 1/2-2&amp;quot; on the bottom. fold the pinked edge up to where you want the shirt to end with the pinked edge showing. sew a seam about a half inch up from the bottom of the fold (the new bottom of the garment). after the seam is inplace fold the pinked edge back down to touch the seam you just sewd and then fold that whole part down onto the hemline, encasing the pinked edge entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sew the fold into place along the very bottom of the garment. i feel like this is weird to visualize using just words so heres some pictures of both sides of a finished crop i made recently. i used a backstitch for almost all my handsewn stuff because its really secure and still looks nice in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this has the rolly side in so i started by turning my shirt inside out first and then doing the same thing i described above. be sure to pay attention to which side you want the front of your stitches to go and working acordingly! i think they can make really cute accents in a bold color. Have fun and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9eEK1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9eEK1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ivNYS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ivNYS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17463" LastActivityDate="2023-11-07T18:51:25.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10765" CreationDate="2023-11-10T19:33:56.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a term. My old university professor and friend used it in conversation only last week. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%BCckenfigur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rückenfigur&lt;/a&gt; is the German art term for a figure seen from behind, and placed inside the scene as a proxy for the viewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17798" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-10T22:09:27.530" LastActivityDate="2023-11-10T22:09:27.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11938" CreationDate="2023-11-17T06:40:02.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use spray adhesive, PVA, Elmer's or other brand of white glue, or Mod Podge. After gluing, I add a clear (matt or gloss) top coat, either a spray or brushon sealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately, when I am trying to glue any paper to any surface, to avoid wrinkling, I first adhere it to freezer paper with an iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use freezer paper:&#xA;A hard surface works better than a padded ironing board. Cover the surface with something to protect it from heat. (I use about 6 pieces of smooth fabric on my work table.) Place your paper face down on the protective fabric. Then place the freezer paper, shiny side down, on top of your paper. (If the freezer paper is larger than your paper, it will fuse to the protective fabric. I usually make it a smidgen smaller than the paper.) Use an iron (set on dry, not steam) on the non-shiny side of the freezer paper, constantly moving it until the plasticized side has fused to your paper. I would suggest you experiment with the kind of paper you are using and with various iron heat settings.  I usually use one of the higher settings. My iron has 7 settings. I usually use 5 or 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process will make your paper a bit thicker. Also, the freezer paper comes on a roll, so it will remain a little bit curved. If your image is not too big, the little bit of curl on the paper doesn't cause a problem  when gluing it. If your image is very large, you might put it under heavy books for a while or use washi tape to keep it flat on a flat surface. (Check that washi tape will not damage your paper. It is generally less likely to harm paper than regular masking or blue or green paint masking tape.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17825" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T06:40:02.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11956" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2023-11-17T09:13:16.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related tags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/maintenance&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;maintenance&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;maintenance&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-maintenance-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;maintenance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-technique-selection-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;technique-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/paint&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paint&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;paint&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-paint-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;paint&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/acrylic-paint&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;acrylic-paint&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;acrylic-paint&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-acrylic-paint-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;acrylic-paint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tool-selection&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tool-selection&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tool-selection&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-tool-selection-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;tool-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/safety&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;safety&amp;#39;&quot; aria-label=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;safety&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;tag-safety-tooltip-container&quot;&gt;safety&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-17T09:13:16.703" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T09:13:16.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11957" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2023-11-17T09:13:16.703" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions about the use, maintenance and techniques of airbrushes. " OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-17T09:13:16.703" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T09:13:16.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2593" CreationDate="2023-11-17T12:13:55.027" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://medium.com/@ruthaquilani/what-is-the-difference-between-street-art-mural-and-graffiti-1465508f0cc#:%7E:text=Street%20art%20encompasses%20various%20artistic,with%20narratives%20and%20cultural%20symbols.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Medium's definition&lt;/a&gt; :&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Street art&lt;/strong&gt; encompasses various artistic interventions in public spaces, often thought-provoking and accessible.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Murals&lt;/strong&gt; are large-scale commissioned artworks, transforming spaces with narratives and cultural symbols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Street art is a genre. Murals is a type of street artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, Keith Haring did plenty of artwork on canvas, that's not a mural yet it is street art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas a mural is not necessarily streetart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17828" LastActivityDate="2023-11-17T12:13:55.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11961" CreationDate="2023-11-17T22:13:31.543" Score="4" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few relatively new both screen and digital printed concert posters which were rolled. I would like to frame them in exact size frames but I am not sure how to go about safely doing that without them sticking to the glass. I can't use spacers as they aren't perfectly flat and I don't want to dry mount them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my only option then to use acrylic to frame them? I already have UV glass and I'm not sure what the chances of it sticking to the glass are. If there is a high chance they will stick to the frames should I bite the bullet and spend a little more for acrylic? And if so should I get abrasion resistant (even more expensive...) or normal? Is TAP Plastics my best bet for acrylic or somewhere else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also polycarbonate is a no go here right? Finally, I also saw that wooden frames can leech lignin into the borders of art if they don’t have a border around it. Should I be sticking to metal frames then? Or is that not a huge deal? Currently my frames are black painted (not sure about treatment) MDF&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17830" LastActivityDate="2023-11-26T07:43:05.530" Title="How can I safely frame rolled concert posters keeping in mind moisture from touching the glass" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11962" CreationDate="2023-11-19T16:36:53.747" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume that I'm going to investigate if jewelry pieces are strong enough under external loads. For example, consider a ring. I want to investigate if it can resist a punch force, or everyday forces like carrying a heavy suitcase while wearing the ring, or even sudden banging  to a wall accidentally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any guideline or standard or code that helps me determine the direction and magnitude of the external loads on the jewelry pieces? Any documentation on that? Sorry if it sounds like a stupid question, I'm just trying to find a hint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically focusing on the &lt;em&gt;gold&lt;/em&gt; metal and alloys of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10045" LastEditorUserId="10045" LastEditDate="2023-11-20T07:33:30.983" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T23:51:43.913" Title="External loads on gold jewelry" Tags="|metalworking|metal|jewelry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11959" CreationDate="2023-11-20T22:32:50.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my research, I went to TAP Plastics and purchased OP3 acrylic ($16.75 / sqft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is much clearer, and more known than what Michaels was trying to sell me for the same price called &amp;quot;Conservation Acrylic&amp;quot;. There is a way to get them to bundle a custom frame and the not-so-clear acrylic for $42, but it is of the same unknown brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can return the glass I bought from Hobby Lobby and they will install the new acrylic for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the overall best conservation on a budget with already rolled posters, here is what I am doing: (Yes I know it would be better at a custom framer but I am on a budget) (Price is for 18x24)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$16.99 black MDF frames premade from either Hobby Lobby, Michaels, or Amazon.&#xA;(Wait for either 50% off, 70% off, or buy one get two free) The frames aren't amazing but they look pretty nice, are cheap, and are good enough. Everyone says don't get MDF, but they have been fine so far. Michael’s frames are higher quality than Hobby Lobby imo. They also come with glass, not that we care, and usable mounting brackets if you wanted to be super cheap and save $3 buy buying the wire yourself. (You’d have to wire a lot of frames to make it worthwhile tho) However, they have horrible staples that are a pain to take out. There is an image comparison below, I’m not sure there’s a huge difference but given the choice I’m choosing Michael’s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$12 Lineco Frame Sealing Tape to prevent any lignins in the MDF from leaching into my art. You don't need a whole roll per frame, just a few cents worth. I got it from Amazon, local stores are significantly more expensive. Hobby Lobby will seal it for you for free if you use them to buy the foam backing. Not sure about Michaels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$50.25 OP3 (UV) Acrylic from TAP. It's currently $16.75 / sqft or you can get anti-glare for just a little more. I didn't get anti-glare as I don't like how it makes the colors seem dull, scratches easier, costs just a little more, and if it does scratch, you can't buff it without removing the glare coating. Glass was my first choice but glass doesn't allow the print to breathe which can cause it to stick or to mold, it is heavier, and it can shatter potentially ruining the art. Matteing would be better to keep the poster off the glazing material, but I want exact-size frames and the concert posters generally have to be rolled when you're at the concert to prevent immediate damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$6 acid-free foam backing. It's not Japanese cotton, so it may still contain some lignins but it should be very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$3 mounting from Hobby Lobby: points, screws, paper backing, and mounting wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hobby Lobby might tell you that backing paper won't stick to the MDF paint but it will, if you push back they are likely to just paper it for you anyway. If they don't, you can buy some online. If they do and it doesn't stick, Elmer's glue. yes, it's not great but it is so far away from the art that it will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total cost for my frames is around $77.50 each and should preserve and display my art for years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other notes: working with an independent shop is great, but they won't be nearly as forgiving if you change your mind and will likely cost a little bit more than a chain store. That being said, if going with a truly custom frame, they will definitely be able to help you way better than the big box stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Queen poster (red, front) is Hobby Lobby and the Metallica poster (colorful, back) is Michaels.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tgr7M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tgr7M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Images&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17830" LastEditorUserId="17830" LastEditDate="2023-11-26T07:43:05.530" LastActivityDate="2023-11-26T07:43:05.530" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11960" CreationDate="2023-11-21T09:02:41.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an industry standard, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.astm.org/f2999-19.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ASTM F2999-19&lt;/a&gt;, but it's focus is determining safety (mechanical hazards and material toxicity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://technology.matthey.com/article/65/3/480-492/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you can find a study comparing the wear resistance between platinum and gold alloys. It uses &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;standardised industrial procedures in order to provide comparable and reproducible conditions&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I have linked all the standards used to official sites (which are not always particularly practical).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following procedures are outlined in the paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scratch testing&lt;/strong&gt;, using &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a conical &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rockwell_scale&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockwell C hardness tester&lt;/a&gt; with a diamond indenter under controlled loads&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. Ground and polished 'coupons' were made of the 6 tested alloys (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://technology.matthey.com/documents/496120/615138/Frye-65-3-Jul21-f1.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Figure 1&lt;/a&gt;), and these underwent &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;scratching under both constant and increasing loads&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;See paragraph '2.1 Scratch Test' for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wear testing&lt;/strong&gt;. Cubes were made of the alloys (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://technology.matthey.com/documents/496120/615138/Frye-65-3-Jul21-f2.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Figure 2&lt;/a&gt;) for these tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;an &lt;strong&gt;abrasion test&lt;/strong&gt; that utilises a stone and sand media&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;corrosion test&lt;/strong&gt; in artificial human sweat&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;polishing test&lt;/strong&gt; employing a nutshell media&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tests 1 and 3 make use of an industrial standard for testing for the &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;detection of nickel release&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.en-standard.eu/din-en-12472-method-for-the-simulation-of-accelerated-wear-and-corrosion-for-the-detection-of-nickel-release-from-coated-items/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIN EN 12472&lt;/a&gt; (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://technology.matthey.com/documents/496120/615138/Frye-65-3-Jul21-f3.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Figure 3&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;See paragraph '2.2 Wear Testing' for more details.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The corrosion test was performed according to the standard &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.iso.org/standard/66162.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ISO 3160-2&lt;/a&gt; for corrosion resistance, and &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;involves application of artificial human sweat to the test cubes followed by heating in a closed chamber&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;See paragraph '2.3 Corrosion Testing' for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tensile testing&lt;/strong&gt; was performed in accordance with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:iso:6892:-1:ed-3:v1:en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ISO 6892-1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;microhardness testing&lt;/strong&gt; was done using a 100 g load (HV0.1) in accordance with [the withdrawn Vickers hardness test] &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.iso.org/standard/64065.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIN EN ISO 6507-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;More details on the mechanical properties testing that was performed can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.techformcasting.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Frye-Teresa-2017.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this PDF&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize these might not all be of import to you, but hopefully give you a starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T23:51:43.913" LastActivityDate="2023-11-22T23:51:43.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-22T03:37:09.333" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;After setting up a new epoxy table as a computer desk, I placed a small keyboard stand with rubber feet on it. Unfortunately, it seems like the rubber feet had some sort of adhesive coating on them, which I only discovered after trying to move the stand after two days. I used a combination of a small amount of Goo Gone and water to remove the adhesive, which worked, but the end result is a hazy spot on the epoxy.Although this spot will not be visible under normal circumstances, it still bothers me given that the table was just purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I see to completely remove the spot would be to wet sand using a 2000 to 3000 grit sanding block, and then following up with a cutting compound and polish. The rest of the table is in perfect condition, so I'm wondering if this will work without having to do the entire surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See below image of damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvbXj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvbXj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17844" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-24T18:32:33.133" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T18:32:33.133" Title="Repairing small spot on epoxy table damaged by adhesive" Tags="|technique-selection|epoxy-resin|maintenance|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11966" CreationDate="2023-11-22T04:06:20.463" Score="0" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the gold casting process explained here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://morrisandwatson.com/casting/the-casting-process&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://morrisandwatson.com/casting/the-casting-process&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The casting metal is melted in a special casting machine that is programmed to insert the metal under vacuum into the flask at the right time, temperature and rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAK5am.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAK5am.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wax tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QZYSvm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QZYSvm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Furnace melting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYTv4m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYTv4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Furnace melting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lXAupm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lXAupm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ndq9Dm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ndq9Dm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Yellow gold tree&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About furnace melting and filling the mold with molten gold, does gold enter the mold under pressure or without any pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal is under vacuum. So, does it definitely mean the metal is under pressure? I'm a bit confused with pressure, tension, compression, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10045" LastEditorUserId="10045" LastEditDate="2023-11-22T04:17:57.283" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T12:54:19.363" Title="Is gold casting under pressure or not?" Tags="|metal|jewelry|casting|mold-making|wax|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11965" CreationDate="2023-11-22T06:50:33.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a purely physical point of view, being &amp;quot;under pressure&amp;quot; means having a force applied to you. Our atmosphere is constantly applying a force on us from all sides, so objectively speaking we are constantly held under pressure. Our bodies cannot function without that pressure, like in the vacuum of space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked website doesn't explicitly state so, but I assumed the liquid gold would enter the mold without pressure. &lt;strong&gt;I've been proven wrong, please check the answer of OP.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original assumption was that in order to &amp;quot;insert the metal under vacuum into the flask&amp;quot; the molten metal must be in a vacuum as well. It is poured into the mold and flows down by gravity alone. Depending on when the vacuum is released (while the metal is still liquid enough to flow or not), the atmospheric pressure will push the gold into the smallest nooks and crannies of the mold without leaving air bubbles behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opposite of that process would be centrifugal casting, where the mold is spun in a circle and the centrifugal force pushes the material into the mold. You can read more about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gemsociety.org/article/lost-wax-casting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;both casting methods here&lt;/a&gt; (Thanks to Allison C. for the hint). I see no indication that this process is used by this specific manufacturer. If you ave questions or concerns about their process, maybe ask them directly for more detailed information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-11-27T06:41:10.120" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T06:41:10.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11965" CreationDate="2023-11-23T05:06:23.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Elmy correctly suggested, I asked them directly. This is their response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With our vacuum casting machines, the melting and casting process are&#xA;done within one large module.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The preheated casting flask is inserted in the bottom ection and the&#xA;metal is loaded into a crucible above the flask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unit is sealed, a vacuum starts and the metal is then melted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the vacuum reaches the desired pressure and the flask and metal&#xA;reaches the required temperature, the now molten metal is dropped into&#xA;the flask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a video of a similar unit, which may help you to visualise&#xA;the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqXk8Trn-Pc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqXk8Trn-Pc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shared video has an explanation shown below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..., the green needle is the flask chamber under vacuum, the blue is overpressure pushing metal into the flask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the difference between &lt;em&gt;overpressure&lt;/em&gt; minus &lt;em&gt;vacuum pressure&lt;/em&gt; is a decisive factor in deciding if the metal can be considered to be under pressure or not. But I'm still not sure whether I can consider the gold to be entering the mold under pressure or free from pressure. I need to know that as a requirement for numerical simulation of the casting process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUXc9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUXc9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10045" LastEditorUserId="10045" LastEditDate="2023-11-23T05:27:02.010" LastActivityDate="2023-11-23T05:27:02.010" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11417" CreationDate="2023-11-24T19:16:18.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unlike the other two answerers (and the author of the second linked video), I think gesture drawing has more to do with the subject's movement than with the artist's own movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gesture drawing emphasises the directions, curves, and large structural lines of the subject&lt;/strong&gt;. It is often an interpretation of movement (and thus time), rather than a reconstruction of light and shadow, volume, and ratio. This is likely why you thought it was a technique for figure drawing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It is also useful for figuring out compositions, and plays a more prominent role in animation, as well as in comic drawing, where movement can only be expressed using stills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sketching is a much broader term, and might include gesture drawing. &lt;strong&gt;Sketching is, generally, the act of any preparatory marking or shaping&lt;/strong&gt;, be it in pencil, paint, or clay, and gesture drawing can be part of the sketching process.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Especially when the dynamics of the subject need to be expressed or emphasized, it can be the very first part of the sketching process, so the artist can get a quick notion of the general flow of their work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-11-24T19:16:18.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2023-11-25T13:08:15.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest an U-shaped carving tool. V-shaped is harder to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is 2 mm U-shaped carving tool and grooves it makes. This one costed me ca. 10$. It is also useful thing in household.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8Q66.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8Q66.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pIum.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pIum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6534" LastActivityDate="2023-11-25T13:08:15.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-25T13:22:47.853" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project for a small side table where I would like to use a piece of 3/4” thick back painted glass. Ideally I’d like to go for a Day-Glo orange that gives a glow similar to that of the acrylic sheets seen in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I don’t want to just use acrylic is that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It won’t wear as well, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can’t find any of it in 3/4”.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photos below are the type of color saturation/glow I’m trying to capture in the project:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fhj5j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fhj5j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of four stacked acrylic boxes of which two are transparent, one is a fluorescent yellow, and one a fluorescent pink&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17854" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-28T09:55:31.280" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T09:55:31.280" Title="How can I get (something similar to) Day-Glo back-painted glass?" Tags="|material-selection|glass|technique-selection|acrylic-glass|material-making|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11972" CreationDate="2023-11-25T16:27:30.803" Score="5" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8d/James_Hind.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; photo and the shadows on face caught my eyes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9MXZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9MXZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shadow&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stripes on shirt and hair are normal. It can be the shirt's pattern. And about the hair, it's to differeniate layers of hair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why are the shadows on face also made by stripes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, my question is also tagged with &lt;code&gt;style-identification&lt;/code&gt;, so I want to know the name of this style as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But more important I want to know the significance of the use of stripes to make shadows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17495" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T15:06:37.980" Title="Why did they make shadows with stripes?" Tags="|painting|style-identification|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11971" CreationDate="2023-11-25T18:47:59.070" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you follow the link from the Wikipedia page, you get to the portrait's page at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait.php?search=ap&amp;amp;npgno=D29227&amp;amp;eDate=&amp;amp;lDate=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;National Portrait Gallery&lt;/a&gt;. That tells you it's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodcut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;woodcut&lt;/a&gt;. It's probably wrong (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/11974/319&quot;&gt;Joachim's answer&lt;/a&gt;, and the piece is more likely to be an engraving, but the reasoning below applies to both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most forms of printmaking, woodcuts can only print ink or no ink. That means that to get anything that's not pure black or white you need some form of halftoning. So the question becomes one of what how do you achieve halftoning by carving wood. Lines are both easier to carve and more robust than trying to leave behind a stipple pattern, and so they're a logical choice to get intermediate shades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stripes, like other forms of shading, convey more than just simple brightness.  Look at how they're used to show the curvature of the face and the curls in the hair.  Also look at how the lines taper approaching a highlight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2023-12-15T15:06:37.980" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T15:06:37.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11971" CreationDate="2023-11-27T14:07:19.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be polemical and say that, &lt;strong&gt;even though the National Gallery categorises it as a woodcut, it is more likely a line engraving&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not easy to create fine, smooth, and steady lines in wood. Wood has grain, and specific directions it wants to guide the gouge into.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A woodcut is usually characterized by lines of uneven and often irregular width; hatching that, when curved, tries to follow along the natural grain of the wood; curves that are only slight, or suffer imprecision (sudden changes in width where part of the wood chipped away); variations between darker and lighter patches, when, for darker parts of a drawing, the surface layer of the wood would be mostly left intact; crossing lines will generally show signs of abrasion; and similar telltale signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print you show consists completely of lines—even the dark hair, the lines of which in a woodcut would have been engraved into the top layer, consist entirely of lines. Very smooth lines. The lines in the hair and especially around the chin are very fine (this illustration is around 8 cm high), and perfectly curved.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The very clean illustration screams intaglio printing, not relief printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw136359/James-Hind?LinkID=mp59654&amp;amp;search=sas&amp;amp;sText=james%20hind&amp;amp;role=sit&amp;amp;rNo=2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a woodcut of James Hind&lt;/a&gt; from 1652, that is 2 years after the illustration you posted was made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h6a9X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h6a9X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the differences in the technique used are apparent—note especially the boots.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw136362/James-Hind?LinkID=mp59654&amp;amp;search=sas&amp;amp;sText=james%20hind&amp;amp;role=sit&amp;amp;rNo=6&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is another etching of James Hind, just to hammer it home (albeit this is from 1799):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pj76R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pj76R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can also see the darkest patch is actually hatched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The possible cause for the probable misinformation on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait.php?search=ap&amp;amp;npgno=D29227&amp;amp;eDate=&amp;amp;lDate=&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the page ChrisH links to&lt;/a&gt; in their answer, is that it categorizes the entire piece of paper (the dimensions verify this assessment), which, as can clearly be seen, is the illustration you refer to attached to a piece of printed paper: the illustration and the lettering are separate processes. I'm not sure why it is categorized as a woodcut, though. Perhaps the lettering was done using woodcut, but this is unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the Flemish painter &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthony_van_Dyck&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anthony Van Dyck&lt;/a&gt; heavily influenced the baroque in England, which came up around the time the image was made, so the German &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Holbein_the_Younger&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hans Holbein Jr.&lt;/a&gt; influenced the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_Renaissance&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;English Renaissance&lt;/a&gt; prevalent during the Tudor period. This period ended with Elizabeth I, only a few decades before the illustration in question was made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But its style seems archaic for the time (it, for example, really stands out in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait-list?set=142&amp;amp;displayStyle=thumb&amp;amp;wPage=5&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of portraits&lt;/a&gt; made around the same time). It is a small line engraving, perhaps intended to be more decorative than descriptive, and could have been part of a larger collection of portraits of criminals; in any case, it is rather crude as a portrait of an individual. It is very rigid, and prototypical. It also seems very traditional, almost medieval in style, and is certainly not baroque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is therefore difficult to pinpoint the style of this image&lt;/strong&gt;, especially because it was likely never intended as &amp;quot;art&amp;quot;, and artistic and personal preferences did not play a part in the creation process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clothing worn by the sitter is slightly more elaborate than what Shakespeare is wearing in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collar_(clothing)#/media/File:Shakespeare.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this painting&lt;/a&gt;, and I would say that, at least, &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; contemporary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of image, in which the face or bust of a specific person is depicted, is common for biographical texts, or as part of or opposing the title page of iconic books or editions. Hopefully that can be a lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-27T14:18:50.910" LastActivityDate="2023-11-27T14:18:50.910" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11970" CreationDate="2023-11-28T09:49:21.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't infuse glass with colours after it has been produced, and, indeed, coloured acrylic sheets thicker than 8 mm are really hard to find (unless you buy in bulk).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;While for coloured glass you won't need (and probably shouldn't get) as thick a sheet as 3/4&amp;quot; (19 mm), most affordable sheets of coloured glass seem to be textured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only ways you can achieve something that resembles the acrylic sheets depicted in your question in glass are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glass fusion&lt;/strong&gt;. A process through which you combine different glasses, usually of different colours. For this you'll need a (large) kiln. It might be easiest to find a glass fusion course near you to get acquainted with the process.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I think this will yield the best results for you, both aesthetically and functionally. It will also be the most complicated and expensive, probably, which in turn might make it more rewarding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using coloured sheets&lt;/strong&gt; to cover the glass. Your second best option to get the effect you seem to be looking for. There are many types and sizes of sheets readily available, mostly made of vinyl or acrylic. You can find &amp;quot;coloured window film&amp;quot; in many different shades, both plain and textured.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Since you haven't completely made up your mind yet, you could let the final look depend slightly on what you are able to find, either in local stores or online.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Painting the glass&lt;/strong&gt;. As &lt;em&gt;ChrisH&lt;/em&gt; points out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/11970/i-m-looking-for-process-for-manufacturing-a-piece-of-day-glo-back-painted-glass#comment15657_11970&quot;&gt;a comment&lt;/a&gt;, this will not yield as clear and arresting an effect as having the entire block be coloured. The thickness of the application &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; vary along the surface, and this will be very visible. It is also not very abrasion resistant, so you'd have to paint the undersides of the table (or sandwich it between sheets). If, however, you were to look for a more customizable and decorative method, this is still worth considering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA; &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just to be thorough, a final option is to scour second hand markets for items that consist of similar surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-11-28T09:49:21.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-28T21:51:17.223" Score="2" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to do mixed media painting like in this video by David Finch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/live/BQOgXuoJhI0?si=sfAgoc5UD2DZ2oEe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/live/BQOgXuoJhI0?si=sfAgoc5UD2DZ2oEe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I have is that after I apply fixative and let it dry, I can't apply any more prismacolor. It doesn't stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use matte art fixative from a can instead of an airbrush. I have tried adding several layers, but it doesn't help. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9815" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T16:04:02.213" Title="Prismacolor premiere pencils on top of fixative" Tags="|fixative|prismacolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11976" CreationDate="2023-11-29T16:04:02.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of matte fixative try using &lt;strong&gt;workable fixative&lt;/strong&gt;. It should seal the underlayers while preserving the tooth of the paper so you can keep working. Keep in mind once a layer gets fixed it is &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot; in that you cannot erase it, the fixative is not that workable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The waxiness of the Prismacolors may be working against you. Depending on how solid you are making the color it may be that the build up of the color material is preventing further color from adhering and its not the fixative at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2023-11-29T16:04:02.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-11-29T21:47:00.943" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Avon Brilliant snowman lamp. Last Christmas I realized that his acrylic arms are missing. I have called several craft stores and Avon regarding replacement arms with no avail. I was hoping to get some direction to find some replacements on this exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user17876" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-11-30T12:02:48.660" LastActivityDate="2023-11-30T12:02:48.660" Title="Looking for snowman hands" Tags="|material-selection|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2023-12-01T15:08:54.777" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11965" CreationDate="2023-11-29T21:58:07.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a simple answer because a few processes are used. A major factor is the high density of gold ;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;liquid gold pushes in to all volumes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;liquid gold pushes any gases into porous mold material leaving gold filling the pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;centrifugal force adds to the density of gold and it pushes into the mold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(repeat A in vacuum.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I worked, the mold sat on a vacuum table and a partial vacuum helped pull gold down into the porous mold.  I am sure a few more options can be visualized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-12-04T12:54:19.363" LastActivityDate="2023-12-04T12:54:19.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11978" CreationDate="2023-11-30T02:02:09.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;eBay lists a few 2001 Avon Brilliant Snowman lamps. One of them has a price of about seven fifty plus about sixteen dollars shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first suggestion would have been to commission a 3D printed version, using clear resin and SLA printing, but the model creation and printing would have exceeded the eBay cost of a complete unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you're going to have a full lamp plus the parts remaining from your existing lamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if you are sufficiently crafty, you can use the new/used lamp to silicone mold the arms and pour clear acrylic to create an additional set of arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would likely be the most cost effective method, especially since you can create the mold without damaging the originals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2023-11-30T02:02:09.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-03T02:33:35.020" Score="7" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm essentially trying to diffuse a daylight spectrum bulb and have very little depth to work with. I opted for bouncing the light out of a matte white chamber with a fancy shape so it distributes evenly and it works great but the light makes 2.4 bounces on the average so how much light the surface reflects makes a big difference in efficiency. eg. 80% reflection  is 58% efficiency and 90% reflection is 78% efficiency. (reflectivity ^ average_number_of_bounces)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using stacked up whitest copier paper that I could find but from what I researched, its only ~80% reflective. I don't know much about paint but google says that typical white paint is 70-80% reflective, that would not be an improvement. There is this cool diy paint on youtube that is supposedly over 98% reflective &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNs_kNilSjk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNs_kNilSjk&lt;/a&gt; and if I had some time on my hands, I'd go for it but unfortunately I don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, what's the best way to make a flat surface really really white (like 90%+ reflective) with stuff that you'd be able to find in a well stocked hardware store or perhaps easily ordered online? My budget is &amp;lt;€100 to cover 2 square meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11731" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T17:56:26.547" Title="Is there an easily accessible way to make a surface very bright white?" Tags="|material-selection|paint|lighting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11981" CreationDate="2023-12-03T10:44:17.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're making is fairly similar to an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Integrating_sphere&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;integrating sphere&lt;/a&gt; used in my line of work. Coatings are traditionally &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barium_sulfate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;barium sulphate&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnesium_oxide&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;magnesium oxide&lt;/a&gt; in the form of fine powder. The former is used as an art pigment, often mixed with titanium dioxide (another bright white pigment), and pure pigments are available online. So the trick might be to get those to stick with the minimum of binding agent. Wearing a respirator or good mask, I might coat the surface with a thin layer of spray varnish, then dust with the pigment powder, tipping it off when dry. It won't be very robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier options include the non-shiny side of aluminium foil. The reflectivity is a bit better than paper, but it's not as diffusing, so you might want to give it a very light spray of white spray paint on the most direct line of sight to the output (or anywhere that's on a 1-bounce route to the bulb). Note that halogen bulbs get hot enough to melt aluminium foil in direct contact. You may even be able to use the shiny side to reflect light that's going to have at least 2 more bounces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's probably no point trying silver paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally you can try making a diffusing reflector from a mirror, glass or plastic so long as the reflective metal coating is on the back. Scuff up the front surface with fine aluminium oxide or silicon carbide sandpaper (e.g. emery paper). Start with just a little sanding and test, expecting to sand a bit more. Work wet, test, dry, and wear a mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T10:44:17.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11981" CreationDate="2023-12-03T17:56:26.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a high quality commercial interior matte white paint. Use matte to expose the most surface area to the light and cut down on hot spots. With the reflectivity of the top white paints in the 90%'s it would be the easiest and most affordable approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search shows five major manufacturers with paints that have an LRV (light reflectivity value) over 90. The brightest appears to be a &amp;quot;Ultra Pure White&amp;quot; from one company (rhymes with bear) that has an LRV of 94.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2023-12-03T17:56:26.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11988" CreationDate="2023-12-04T13:21:02.943" Score="3" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of doing some leather sewing projects and saw there were two kinds of gloves that look the same to me and cost almost the same so I don't understand which one to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are called &amp;quot;hand sewing glove&amp;quot; (&amp;quot;syhandske&amp;quot;) and &amp;quot;sailmaker glove&amp;quot; (&amp;quot;segelmakarhandske&amp;quot;) from what I can tell. Might be called &amp;quot;sewing palm&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;seaming palm&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;roping palm&amp;quot; as well? What are the differences? (Basically I want to know if I can pick the one I think is prettier or if there are actual differences)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11392" LastEditorUserId="11392" LastEditDate="2023-12-04T14:31:55.193" LastActivityDate="2023-12-05T09:35:29.170" Title="Difference between hand sewing glove and sailmaker glove" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-04T21:48:04.457" Score="1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a plaster strip belly cast of my expecting wife. I am hoping for a simple solution to create a positive relief form using the plaster wrap now as the mould. I'm thinking a simple application of a coating to the desired impression surface to protect and harden it(?). Then hopefully applying a liquid/ fiber(?) layer to cast a positive finished impression knowing the plaster casting is the temporary and soon destroyed surface.I've found complex expensive solutions and hope you might offer the obvious couple of products I could use for a simple solution...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17895" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T16:27:00.710" Title="How to cast a positive form from a plaster wrap baby belly mould?" Tags="|casting|plaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2023-12-14T00:22:54.887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11987" CreationDate="2023-12-05T03:17:29.553" Score="5" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this T-shirt at the 2023 JP Morgan Corporate Challenge 5k race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like the fabric and would like to buy more shirts like it but I haven't been able to find an exact match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that it's a performance type T-shirt but this is a special quality that's not normal to generic performance polyester, and thus haven't been able to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two photos.  On the outside is a very light perforation kind of jersey knit, but it's more smooth on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMsYG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMsYG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shirt 1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLpq8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GLpq8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shirt 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17897" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T18:42:04.887" LastActivityDate="2023-12-13T18:42:04.887" Title="What kind of T-shirt (fabric) is this?" Tags="|material-identification|clothing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11986" CreationDate="2023-12-05T09:02:33.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you have there is a &lt;strong&gt;microfibre eyelet Dri-Fit&lt;/strong&gt; garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This weave is often referred to as &amp;quot;eyelet&amp;quot; (or an eyelet fabric), as well as &lt;a href=&quot;https://ukfabricsonline.com/mock-eyelet-sports-fabric&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(mock) eyelet&lt;/a&gt;. I have not been able to find a distinction between the two yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nike.com/fi/help/a/nike-dri-fit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nike's &lt;em&gt;Dri-Fit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; fabric, and you can find it labelled &lt;em&gt;Dri-Fit&lt;/em&gt;, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dri-Fit&lt;/em&gt;, like 'eyelet', refers to a weave, rather than a material, and it is &lt;a href=&quot;https://shopwith-trea.com/dri-fit-t-shirt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;apparently&lt;/a&gt; available in microfibre, (regular) polyester, pique, and heather. It does not only refer to the eyelet weave; 'mesh' and 'interlock' alternatives are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.provisionprint.net/post/which-dri-fit-t-shirt-to-use-for-t-shirt-printing-in-singapore&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;available&lt;/a&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/faEVw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/faEVw.png&quot; alt=&quot;overview of types of related fabrics&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://monsterprints.com.sg/guide-to-dri-fit-t-shirt-printing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also find it named &lt;em&gt;cool fit&lt;/em&gt; (again, if there is a distinction, it is not clear), and similar microfibre fabrics have that same &amp;quot;eyelet&amp;quot; distinction.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There might be an issue with using the term &lt;em&gt;Dri-Fit&lt;/em&gt;, as it is possibly trademarked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-12-10T17:54:48.400" LastActivityDate="2023-12-10T17:54:48.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11984" CreationDate="2023-12-05T09:35:29.170" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that both the English terms, &lt;em&gt;sailmakers palm&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; and &lt;em&gt;sewing palm&lt;/em&gt;, are used interchangeably (and sometimes combined as &lt;em&gt;sailmaker's sewing palm&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The Swedish terms aren't—based on internet searches—even though the tools indeed look as similar.&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is, however, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sailmakerssupply.com/email_archive/27&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;subdivision&lt;/a&gt; of the sewing palm into the &lt;em&gt;seaming palm&lt;/em&gt; and the &lt;em&gt;roping palm&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The seaming palm is used for sewing seams, patches and in general, lighter work. The eye has several indentation to accept the eye end of the needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The roping palm is used for heavier work such as sewing boltrope to the sail. The indentations in the eye are fewer and larger to accept the end of the larger needles that are required for heavier work [see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://collections.museumsvictoria.com.au/content/media/18/986618-large.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this image&lt;/a&gt;]. Leather extends up the thumb of the roping palm. This allows the user to wrap the thread around the thumb for greater pull without cutting into flesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important difference in the designs is that some have the 'thimble' in the middle of the palm, whereas others have them against the thenar eminence. One probably has an advantage over the other depending on the task and personal preference, but for heavier duty work (like roping) the one closer to the palm might be better, as the needle will be more in line with the arm, and more force can be applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think most if not all differences in design are matters of preference, as well. One that stands out is that some palms are single strips of leather with a hole in them, while others consists of two distinct strips, of which one is strapped around the thumb (and some DIY designs are Y-shaped).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I can also imagine that historically different countries or regions had design differences—the one sold &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tradline.co.uk/sailmakers-palm-dutch-1816-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is called &amp;quot;Dutch&amp;quot;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In books about sailing, it is referred to simply as a &amp;quot;palm&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/TheSeamansFriend/page/n129/mode/2up&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Seaman's Friend&lt;/a&gt; from 1874:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qIuy7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qIuy7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And in &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.462719/mode/2up&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make Your Own Sails&lt;/a&gt;, a handbook from 1966:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ueHWG.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ueHWG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* This seems to be the most common spelling, but it could also be sailmaker's or sailmakers' palm.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;† Could it be a regional difference in terminology?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/sup&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-12-05T09:35:29.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11985" CreationDate="2023-12-06T16:27:00.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you won't need a perfect reproduction of every small feature (which would require more expensive and elaborate methods and materials like latex or mould silicone), I recommend paper maché:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal the cast so it cannot stick to the materials you apply to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could opt for cling film or a big trash bag cut along the seams. You'll want to reduce wrinkles as much as possible, so be careful when laying out the plastic foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have a tub of latex, brush a thin layer over the entire surface and let it dry completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also contemplated covering the inside of the mold with packing tape, because glue shouldn't stick to the plasticy outside. Cut the tape into small segments to reduce wrinkling and make sure you cover every small bit of the mould.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Form the surface of the soon-to-be cast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend ripping segments of toilet paper into 4 pieces each and applying them with a solution of 2 parts water and 1 part PVA glue (known by many names like White glue, Elmers glue or wood glue). I'v used kitchen towel before, but found that it retains it's dimpled structure too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a nice surface, you'll want to lay a dry piece of paper down and then lightly push it into the mold with a brush containing some of the glue mixture. Air bubbles and wrinkles will be visible in the final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay down at least 4 layers of toilet paper, each glued securely together and completely dried, before continueing with the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stabilize the shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rip newspaper (no glossy magazines!) or thin (preferably slightly absorbant) paper into strips. These can be longer than the toilet paper peices to speed up the process. Glue down at least 3 more layers using a thicker solution of 50% water to 50% glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to continue this way, the final object would become extremely stable, but also quite heavy. So now it's time to fill the shape with some air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;traditional&amp;quot; way is to loosely ball up entire sheets of newspaper and glueing them on with the same strips and glue as used before. You could also incorporate modern materials like packaging peanuts, bubble wrap or pieces of styrofoam. Use whatever you can scavange from the trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important that these fillings are not much larger than a human fist. You'll want to glue each bit of filling down by completely covering it in paper strips and glue mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill the mold up to aprox. 3 cm / 1 inch below the final capacity that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The final stabilizer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The center of your cast should be nice and sturdy by now, but the edges can easily pull and twist out of shape. To add a scaffolding to the edge, spread some of the glue mixture onto a big sheet of newspaper or packing paper. Then roll it up into a messy tube and twist the tube into a spiral. Press this spiral onto the edge of the cast and glue it in place with more paper strips. If you want to be extra sure, you can repeat the process and add a second ring or you could add struds that cross from one side to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish your cast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, get it out of the mold somehow... not much to say here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like how the surface turned out, you can add a final layer of toilet paper on top to smooth out some irregularities. Smaller pieces of paper create a smoother surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After it's completely dry, you can paint it with any type of paint that isn't too watery, like acryllics or wall paints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Reference&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once made a shark head for a halloween costume that way. It was formed over a baloon and became rigid like a helmet (it also sounded like one when knocked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-12-06T16:27:00.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-06T22:17:35.387" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rolled poster that is very fragile and I don’t want to potentially crease it. I also can’t use heat or water as its sharpie signed. It’s not super badly rolled but it’s certainly not flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So two questions, can I mount it to a mat in the current situation or do I need to flatten it perfectly? And if so, how do I mount it? I’m afraid any kind of tape may permanently damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17830" LastActivityDate="2024-01-18T11:20:28.517" Title="Can I mount a rolled poster to a mat? If so, how?" Tags="|framing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-11T09:52:05.750" Score="1" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of material is used to make goalie leg pads? Some kind of synthetic leather?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17921" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2023-12-11T12:04:06.303" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T12:45:00.950" Title="Material for goalie leg pads" Tags="|sewing|material-sourcing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11991" CreationDate="2023-12-11T12:45:00.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegoalnet.com/forums/topic/844-my-homemade-ball-hockey-pads/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a set someone made. They used &lt;strong&gt;ballistic nylon&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;420D nylon&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;high- and low-density EVA foams&lt;/strong&gt; for the padding. Materials that are of high quality and have a high wear resistance, but are relatively light-weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that making goalie pads yourself is generally advised against online (for reasons similar to why DIY cycling helmets are not a particularly good idea, I assume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2023-12-11T12:45:00.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-13T11:12:50.890" Score="2" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a scalloped satin hem and I was wondering if I need to interface it to give it more structure and if I'll need a non woven or woven sew in interfacing for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17930" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2023-12-13T12:07:38.610" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T15:42:04.317" Title="Do I need to interface a scalloped satin hem?" Tags="|fabric|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2023-12-14T10:45:33.127" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am looking to create a personalised product which involves etching/engraving words into a pinewood surface that has been spray painted black. Any ideas on how to go about this and what is easiest and cheapest method? I have attached the surface below. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NB6xD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NB6xD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17406" LastActivityDate="2023-12-14T10:45:33.127" Title="Etching/engraving words onto wooden surface?" Tags="|paint|wood|wood-carving|calligraphy|engraving|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2023-12-16T00:23:29.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10884" CreationDate="2023-12-15T18:22:19.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is true that a lot of work was hand carved, but many elements are made of what is called &lt;em&gt;compo&lt;/em&gt;, the exact nature of which varies but is usually a resin, a whitening agent and glue. This material would be used in conjunction with a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you would have wood carving, compo elements glued (either before or after) a whitewash of gesso, then an application of clay bole, some rabbit-skin glue and then gold leaf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following image fragment is taken from the google image search for &amp;quot;antique compo frame mold.&amp;quot; I think one of them is perhaps one of the elements in your closeup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1t5d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1t5d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9907" LastActivityDate="2023-12-15T18:22:19.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11993" CreationDate="2023-12-18T15:42:04.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no simple yes or no answer, because it depends on the drape of your fabric and which effect you want to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fabric is heavy and drapey, you probably won't need any additional interfacing. If your fabric is very thin and lightweight and like the way it looks, you don't need interfacing either. Only if you want to give it more structure than the fabric durrently has (maybe because the scallpoed hem is for a sleeve and you don't want the scallops to flop around with every move), then interfacing it can achieve that. The strength of interfacing should fit the fabric - thin interfacing for thin fabrics and thick interfacing for thick fabrics. Otherwise the interfaced sections looks so different from the not interfaced fabric that the effect is comical or just weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this application a non-woven interfacing is slightly better than a woven one, because the interfacing will be cut into scallops as well you don't want to deal with 2 fraying fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are iron-on interfacings that are very practical and avoid visible basting threads completely. If you insist on sewing in the interfacing, take tiny stitches in the direction of the long fibers of the satin (the smooth direction). That hides the threads better than sewing perpendicular to the long threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2023-12-18T15:42:04.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="219" CreationDate="2023-12-26T13:08:06.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To precisely follow fine, intricate outlines you require small brushes.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;On the other hand, you'll need large brushes for smooth gradients in large areas, which are, preferably, continuous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most practical solution is to use a &lt;strong&gt;masking fluid&lt;/strong&gt;, which is available in any art supply store.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A masking fluid is a fluid that can be applied by painting or pouring, and which will solidify after a short time.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This gives you the opportunity to both follow fine lines, and cover a large area in two, separate steps: after having masked the bird, you can paint the background in one large gesture. After the paint has dried, you can peel off the mask, and you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this method you can keep on using pure watercolours (as in the example painting)—you won't need to change your watercolour opacity, consistency, or technique, and it won't muddy the colours of the bird by having the background colours shine through (watercolours are never opaque). Neither would you hazard peeling off part of the pre-existing painting, as DIY masks might do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4yRm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4yRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Peeling of a layer of dried masking fluid, revealing a perfectly clean substrate among a painted background&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.craftsy.com/post/how-to-use-masking-fluid/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-01-09T10:30:25.593" LastActivityDate="2024-01-09T10:30:25.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3145" CreationDate="2023-12-31T09:32:18.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you cut out pattern pieces for a garment, you should pre-launder the entire length of fabric using the same method you will use to launder the finished garment.  This is so you don't get any nasty (and especially unfixable) surprises when you wash it after the garment is made, including shrinkage, off-grain fabric, fabric with so much sizing that the washed fabric characteristics don't match the prewashed fabric characteristics, fabric that wrinkles to an unacceptable level after being washed, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be a pain to pre-launder fabric, especially dry-clean-only fabric, but it's better to find out how it handles being cleaned regularly before you spend the time and energy making the garment and find out that it didn't come through its first &amp;quot;regular&amp;quot; washing/laundering intact.  I didn't check the straight grain of fabric before I made a garment out of it ONE time, and I ended up donating the garment after a few wearings because it would NOT sit nicely on the straight grain no matter how much I tried to iron and starch it into conformity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't wash wool in the washing machine unless it's labeled as washable wool.  One of my children did a great job of turning a wool jacket into a felted doll jacket by throwing it in their wash.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17982" LastActivityDate="2023-12-31T09:32:18.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11787" CreationDate="2023-12-31T09:50:20.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can flatline the garment - cut the same pattern pieces from a fabric that will give you better handling characteristics of the fabric, place the flatlining fabric pattern pieces next to the fashion fabric with wrong sides together, and sew the pattern treating the fashion fabric plus flatlining fabric combo as if it were a single piece of fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17982" LastActivityDate="2023-12-31T09:50:20.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11827" CreationDate="2023-12-31T23:17:16.160" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;'E6000' is the best product ive used for glueing.&#xA;'Gorilla glues-GEL super glue' works great too&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tQIz.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tQIz.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJrsk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJrsk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17986" LastActivityDate="2023-12-31T23:17:16.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-02T18:37:17.283" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to print an eulogy off my email, copy a newspaper article, and make copies of photos to frame all together to give to my family members to hang on the wall, so they will be exposed to temperature changes and light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will you please recommend what would be the best paper and ink for word articles and photo paper to use for printing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the framing shop, but they want it all printed up before I bring it to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17995" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-01-13T12:42:37.343" LastActivityDate="2024-01-13T12:42:37.343" Title="Recommended paper and ink for printing memorials" Tags="|material-selection|paper|preservation|ink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12010" CreationDate="2024-01-03T00:40:28.107" Score="3" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what to search for, and I'm hoping you can help me find whatever this might be called:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something that looks like a keyring, but expands with pressure if pressed onto a tube; it then squeezes when released.  Maybe think &amp;quot;metal rubber band&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs to be metal for electrical conductivity, ~1mm in thickness, and about 2-3cm in diameter.  (I've scoured Amazon's keyring selection, but everything looks far too strong to expand and bounce back.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would something like this be called?  Other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10413" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T14:22:07.367" Title="Do there exist compression ring springs?" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|terminology|material-identification|metal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12009" CreationDate="2024-01-03T14:22:07.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends how much it needs to open/stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retaining_ring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;External circlips/retaining rings&lt;/a&gt; spring to mind - they're normally installed into a groove, but don't always have to be. Getting them out of a groove (and sometimes in) takes special pliers, but just used on a tube that shouldn't be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w82Sq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w82Sq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Circlips, via Wikipedia&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt; Retaining rings image from Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Axial_Rings.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Axial_Rings.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise 1-3 turns cut from a suitably-sized compression spring should work.  You can either buy springs or make them by wrapping wire round something undersized.  Piano strings are a good type of wire for making springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual effect of squeezing in one direction to expand in the other requires a more complex braided construction. Braided sleeves in (tinned) copper or steel are conductive, but will fray unless you seal the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2024-01-03T14:22:07.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12017" CreationDate="2024-01-05T07:46:52.133" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to charcoal and want to play around. I watched &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6W91dTXxfzA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; and I am trying to understand what tools and equipment he is using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the beginning of the video, it seems he is spreading lines using a simple compressed charcoal stick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 0:15, it looks like a stump, though he throws down some hard clear lines with it. Can anyone identify what is he using?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 0:18, the functionality looks like a kneaded eraser, though the material he is using looks tough and not so kneadable. Is that an eraser? A kneaded eraser?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 0:31, I am guessing this is a simple compressed charcoal pencil (actually a bunch of them).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 0:54, I think it's either a wet cloth or a wet sponge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And whenever he uses a spray, is it simple water, or is there a special liquid?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any help and advice on how to learn the right practices with these tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18006" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-01-07T16:12:35.670" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T16:12:35.670" Title="Identifying charcoal drawing equipment in a YouTube video" Tags="|material-identification|technique-identification|charcoal|tool-identification|tool-usage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12016" CreationDate="2024-01-05T18:27:13.717" Score="5" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a library makerspace, and one of the things we have available is alcohol inks.  They are not available in large quantities, the projects being made are generally about the size of a post card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, someone told me that alcohol ink is extremely dangerous and shouldn't be touched without good ventilation, gloves, and a respirator.  Upon further research, I've found that there are a lot of people saying to use these measures, but almost nobody actually exemplifying it in any tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that patrons inhaling small amounts of alcohol in one-off projects is probably well within the limits of personal liability, but either way I need to be clear about any potential risks or opportunities for litigation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To loop back to the main question: &lt;strong&gt;Are alcohol inks safe to use in a public makerspace?  How much is too much, how much is safe (if any)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently it's a fairly large room, decent ventilation, with small amounts of ink in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16730" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T15:25:01.003" Title="Are alcohol inks safe to use in a public makerspace?" Tags="|safety|ink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12014" CreationDate="2024-01-06T23:06:21.393" Score="2" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering, what is the historical origin, technique and name of the following drawing/painting style, done by means of little dots and nets. Or is it perhaps the effect of the drawing support or maybe some kind of digitalization artifact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pe389.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pe389.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18013" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-01-08T16:57:37.390" LastActivityDate="2024-01-08T16:57:37.390" Title="How is this style called and how is it done?" Tags="|painting|drawing|style-identification|portrait-drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12013" CreationDate="2024-01-07T00:46:44.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably an &lt;strong&gt;engraving&lt;/strong&gt;, a printing technique with which an original image is engraved onto a metal (often copper) plate using a burin.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;It could also be an &lt;strong&gt;etching&lt;/strong&gt;, whereby an image is etched into a protective layer on a metal plate, after which an acid is used to carve out the exposed areas. Etchings tend to have slightly blurry lines, because the lines are more irregular, but especially with reproductions it is often hard to distinguish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lines, or &amp;quot;nets&amp;quot;, are a technique called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hatching&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;hatching&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, a common method to get tonality and a sense of shape.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The dots are a less common technique known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stippling&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;stippling&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, used similarly to get tonality (like e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halftone&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;halftone&lt;/a&gt;). I find it is often used for softer and/or lighter materials, like skin, to contrast it with the rougher appearance of hatching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A known consequence of digitizing prints with regular patterns is spatial aliasing. This might happen with the pattern in the background, but it looks authentic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-01-07T00:58:50.157" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T00:58:50.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12012" CreationDate="2024-01-07T09:52:17.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no simple yes or no answer. It depends on the specific product and on the amount you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please consult the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) that should be included with the inks. If you don't have a physical copy, search for &amp;quot;safety data sheet [product name]&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked through a few random Safety Data Sheets for different alcohol inks or related products. Only a single one (&lt;a href=&quot;https://media.jacksonsart.com/pdf/Jacksons_Alcohol_Ink_SDS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;JACKSON’S ALCOHOL INK&lt;/a&gt;) hints at their product being safe to use without a fume hood or respirator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A system of local and/or general exhaust is recommended to keep employee exposures below the Airborne Exposure Limits. Local exhaust ventilation is generally preferred because it can control the emissions of the contaminant at its source, preventing dispersion of it into the general work area. Use explosion-proof equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All others mandate &amp;quot;use under ventilated conditions&amp;quot; or use &amp;quot;with local exhaust ventilation&amp;quot;. All data sheets warn against getting fumes or splashes into your eyes. In case of skin contact, all products recommend washing the skin thorougly with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should keep in mind that these SDS assume an industrial setting with a person working with their product for 8 hours. It's basically the manufacturers' legal protection against compensation claims. If you only use a few drops of ink in a craft project for an hour at most, you can be more lax about those precautions. But no manufacturer will tell you exactly how lax you can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific setting I would first require a short safety instruction before any person is allowed to use the inks. Put a physical copy of the SDS, as well as an abreviated version of it in easy language, in the same storage container as the inks. Provide gloves and eye protection for anyone who wants to use them (typically they'll collect dust, but now it's the liability of the user).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An abbreviated version of the SDS is a good idea for any tool in any maker space. It should list the name of the tool or material and general instructions for safe use like &amp;quot;WARNING flammable&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;wear gloves and eye protection&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;open windows during use&amp;quot;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T09:52:17.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12012" CreationDate="2024-01-07T11:53:01.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say &amp;quot;alcohol inks&amp;quot;, do you mean those small dropper bottles, that are sold in packs of a dozen different colors in craft stores?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is, yes, they are perfectly safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably stop reading here, but I'm going to need to write a longer answer because that's what's expected on this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alcohol inks that are sold in craft stores contain an extremely dilute form of alcohol, with only a small quantity per bottle, meaning that there is very little of the active ingredient to aerosolize or evaporate during use. So the fume risk is minimal close up, and negligible at a distance of more than about a meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://people.uncw.edu/lugo/MCP/DIFF_EQ/deproj/alevap/alevap.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Evaporation data&lt;/a&gt; (not identical, but a near enough equivalent for what you are doing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small opening at the top of each dropper bottle also minimises evaporation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that an individual can safely sit with them for an extended period of time in a room with only moderate ventilation and no respirator or mask, as the active ingredient will never reach a volume that would be harmful to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would only be at risk if you had people using them in a small room with no ventilation, and you were using them in a way that deliberately aerosolized them and they had their face inches over it. For example, if you were airbrushing them in the cupboard under your stairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even then, it would likely only give you a mild headache.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The warnings mostly apply to industrial or commercial use, where you have hours of exposure to highly concentrated inks. Such as in a print studio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally use them to dye resin, and have been doing so for some time. They are mostly alcohol in name only, the biggest problem is them staining things, not from the fumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes without saying, don't drink them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the issue of safety data sheets. I deal with them on a daily basis in a processional capacity, for industrial chemicals that pose a danger to health, and I have the appropriate training to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For crafting inks, safety data sheets are a statutory requirement and are there to limit liability, not to serve as guidance for use. They don't cover volumes, dilutions or use cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same safety data sheet is used for a dropper bottle as for a 50 gallon drum. In the same way that a tree and a toothpick are essentially identical as far as statutory documentation is concerned, but having one dropped on your foot would have a very different effect from the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, to put it simply, if you're using alcohol ink in an industrial quantity then apply industrial safeguard. If you're using it at home, then crack the window open and stop using it if you start to get a headache.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, to put it even simpler, it's perfectly safe, so long as you don't repeatedly sniff directly from the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2024-01-07T15:25:01.003" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T15:25:01.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12011" CreationDate="2024-01-07T16:12:06.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wouldn't say it is compressed charcoal that's being used at the start—rather the opposite: it seems to be a stump of very soft charcoal (you can see a large amount of loose particles trickling down the paper).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tool used at 0:15 is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tortillon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tortillon&lt;/a&gt;, essentially a cylinder made of rolled up paper that has been sharpened like a pencil, and is used to more cleanly and controlled smudge your medium.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At 0:18 he's using a kneaded eraser, just one that's shaped into a point. Why it looks tougher than regular kneaded erasers is that he's using it lightly, and in a controlled manner, as to keep the shape intact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pencil used at 0:31 is indeed compressed charcoal or a Conté pencil. They are quite similar, but differ in binder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thing at 0:54 indeed looks like a small piece of wet cloth. At 0:51 I think he's dapping on extra charcoal powder using a piece of (dry) cloth: notice how the panel he's working on is now lying down, which would make sense if he wants the loose particles to remain in place until he pins most of it down using that wet cloth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The liquid used in the video (that apparently comes in a spray bottle) is said to be nail polish remover in the comments on the video. While nail polish remover is solvent-based, this doesn't seem to be an archival technique: even though this particular work might be on canvas instead of paper (the tape seems to contradict this, though), the additives in nail polish remover will not be kind to the materials in the long run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T16:12:06.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2024-01-08T21:42:28.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, one name for this style is &lt;strong&gt;Alegria&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see a write-up on its history here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://eyeondesign.aiga.org/dont-worry-these-gangley-armed-cartoons-are-here-to-protect-you-from-big-tech/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://eyeondesign.aiga.org/dont-worry-these-gangley-armed-cartoons-are-here-to-protect-you-from-big-tech/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18016" LastActivityDate="2024-01-08T21:42:28.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12008" CreationDate="2024-01-10T08:12:10.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a long lasting piece, use acid-free paper (also called &amp;quot;archival&amp;quot; paper). You can probably find some in your local art store or online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vast majority of paper you can buy (like office paper or cheap drawing paper) is bleached with acid. That gives it a pure white shine, but the acid is never fully neutralized and remains in the paper. As a result it will continue acting on the paper fibers and deteriorate it over many years. The paper becomes more and more yellow and brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the paper is kept in a frame and not touched, the biggest difference will be the color. We still have decades old newspaper and such that is clearly aged, but still intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the printing itself, toner (used by laser printers) is actually more durable than ink. It creates a very thin layer of plastic on top of the paper and AFAIK it resists UV light more than ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-01-10T08:12:10.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-10T23:45:51.807" Score="2" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in incorporating concrete casting as a material into a series of sculptures. Here are my parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The concrete will mainly be used as a framing element for wall works, so rectangular shapes with a couple smooth curves between different points of elevation. Dimensions will be something like 3' L x 2' H by 2-3&amp;quot; D at an absolute maximum, and can be smaller / thinner depending on the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I want to achieve a smooth polished concrete finish on these elements, high brutalist is the aesthetic! So something I am able to&#xA;wet sand or otherwise polish until it is smooth and shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I will need to embed threaded inserts and other pieces of hardware into the concrete to attach other sculptural elements&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something as non-toxic as possible, preferably that I can work with with my bare hands without getting a chemical burn, and also without&#xA;silica dust if possible. I am able to take basic safety precautions&#xA;like a respirator and rubber gloves, but would like to avoid toxic&#xA;elements as much as possible for a material process I plan to reuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I go about sourcing a sculpting concrete that meets these requirements? Very new to all this! Are there any brands that have worked well for y'all or any specific parameters I should be looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also very much appreciate any process advice to achieve these results in  relation to the concrete I source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-01-12T14:28:38.123" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T14:28:38.123" Title="Good Concrete Material for Small Scale Sculpture Casting?" Tags="|material-selection|concrete|material-sourcing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2024-01-11T03:39:29.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One (perhaps somewhat satyrical) name for this style is &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corporate_Memphis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Corporate Memphis&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's in reference both to the similarity to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memphis_Group&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Memphis Group&lt;/a&gt; designs from the 1980s and the ubiquity of the style in tech company advertisements and media that want to come across as inclusive or friendly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EGdb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EGdb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lines up specifically with the corporate elements you mention in your question so I think this is what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T03:39:29.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12023" CreationDate="2024-01-11T18:22:14.130" Score="4" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently started graphite pencil drawings and would like to digitize my drawings. I've experimented with my document scanner (Canon Pixma MX 340) and my camera (Canon PowerShot G5 X Mark III). I am not really happy with either. Let me show a few examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the scanner I get images like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Wj36.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Wj36.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is rather dull. I can let GIMP auto-adjust the levels to make it a bit better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiWZt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiWZt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then I can also reduce the gamma to 0.4 to make make it a bit darker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9WOC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9WOC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is okay-ish, but the stroke with the hard 4H pencil just get lost partially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare this to the result from the camera, where I have adjusted the levels and converted to grayscale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pobzW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pobzW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the stroke from the 4H pencil is all there. But one can also see a large amount of paper grain here because I took the picture at the window and light didn't come from the direction of the camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that the flatbed scanner causes metallic reflection in the pencil drawings and therefore they appear much lighter than they would without that reflection. I deduce that from a test I did with a charcoal pencil on the top and a super soft 8B graphite pencil on the bottom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffrYC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffrYC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the reflection, both are pretty dark pictures. But when scanned on the flatbed, the pencil drawing on the bottom gets this metallic grey look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the impression that the scanner works very well for charcoal drawings. But what is the best way to digitize graphite pencil drawings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18029" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T06:39:56.837" Title="How to scan pencil drawings to get good dynamic range?" Tags="|pencils|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12022" CreationDate="2024-01-11T21:39:01.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I usually do is photograph graphite drawings from an angle that has as little reflection as possible. An easy setup for this is to have the drawing lit from the sides by two or more similar lights (similar mostly in the sense of colour temperature, but, since we're working with &amp;quot;greyscale&amp;quot; images, this is not really a big concern), so you can point your camera at the drawing in-between the lights, and it won't reflect any of the light sources.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;As long as you can eliminate the shadows in the grain of the paper - diffuser lighting will improve this as well - without having any rays reflected directly from a light source into the camera by the graphite, the resulting image should be a lot clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A flatbed scanner does the exact opposite: it shines a light straight onto the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to have the graphite itself be less reflective, like spraying the drawing with a matte (workable) fixative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2024-01-11T21:39:01.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12022" CreationDate="2024-01-12T06:34:34.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, with good quality scanners, I've found it better to adjust the scanner's settings. That's because the sensor had more dynamic range than the file formats typically used. With more modern hardware and software, scanning to 16 bit TIFF would be a good idea. But with a lot of corporate multifunctional devices (primarily for printing and photocopying) you have to take what you're given, and I no longer have a scanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is glare/reflection, dynamic range won't help much, but it will do a bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2024-01-12T06:39:56.837" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T06:39:56.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-12T06:43:22.780" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of creating a few domed stickers for my phone, like the ones shown &lt;a href=&quot;https://laserengraving.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Full-colour-Domed-Decals-and-viny-stickers.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I have created these in a silicone mold and want to apply some kind of glue to the backside so that I can adhere this to the back of my iPhone. I tried a few different adhesives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B003ULCZ7M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glue stick&lt;/a&gt;: The glue isn't very strong and the sticker comes off easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B008FP2RBM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Repositionable spray adhesive&lt;/a&gt;: This one didn't work that well either. It adhered alright in the first try but then after removing the sticker once, the adhesion was lost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend an adhesive that will work for me? I want the adhesion to be strong enough so that it sticks to the phone, however, with a strong pry, the sticker should be able to come off. The phone can be bare, so the backside is metal alloy or it might have a plastic case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18033" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-01-12T14:26:26.097" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T15:30:37.870" Title="What glue to use to make a resin sticker that adheres well to the back of an iPhone?" Tags="|material-selection|adhesives|epoxy-resin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12025" CreationDate="2024-01-12T09:53:36.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can be certain that the surface is clean and more important, flat, consider to use a variety of &lt;a href=&quot;https://phys.org/news/2021-04-gecko-tape.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gecko tape&lt;/a&gt;, also known as nano tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Llm0V.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Llm0V.png&quot; alt=&quot;gecko tape&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;image from linked site&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've purchased a sheet of the material and discovered that it works extremely well on smooth surfaces, including plastic. I have a USB hub with a piece attached, which bonds well to the device, but was problematic when the opposing surface had texture. This was solved with a piece of ordinary packing tape trimmed to be less obtrusive, attached to the textured surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the uses I've performed was to secure an electric toothbrush timer display to a mirror. This placed the display in a position of vertical stress, aka gravity, yet it bonded and held for a number of years, but was easily removed and replaced for battery changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various sources of the material result from a search, making it impractical to list any specific one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2024-01-12T15:30:37.870" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T15:30:37.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-13T18:48:20.580" Score="4" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to replicate this type of finish on aluminum and stainless steel hardware:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tY7FF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tY7FF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is Jax Iron, Steel, and Nickel Blackener on carbon steel (mild steel) with a Rustoleum 2x clear coat. I like this type of finish a lot but sometimes have to work with hardware that is only available in aluminum or stainless steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've tried the Jax equivalent products on Aluminum and Stainless with subpar results, so I'm wondering if anyone else has tried something that works better, or found a specific method that gets good results when working with these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a blackener product / process I can use to achieve similar results on these different materials?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15968" LastEditorUserId="15968" LastEditDate="2024-01-13T21:20:55.263" LastActivityDate="2024-01-13T21:20:55.263" Title="Good Blackener Product / Process for Aluminum and Stainless Steel" Tags="|material-identification|metal|metalworking|material-sourcing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-15T19:49:37.773" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if this book is in the public domain (the French translation by Victor Mortez) : &lt;a href=&quot;https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Libro_dell%27arte&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Libro_dell%27arte&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the book in italian is, but I'm not shure for the translation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me please ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18049" LastActivityDate="2024-01-15T19:49:37.773" Title="Is the Cennini's Libro dell'arte part of public domain?" Tags="|oil-paint|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2024-01-15T22:16:20.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11990" CreationDate="2024-01-18T11:20:28.517" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would glue it on a wood pannel (multiplex), because else I'm afraid it won't stay good (a mat will extend and shrink a lot with humidity)... To glue it, use for example upholsterer's glue, but it also depends on the kind of paper. I would try on a little corner before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18049" LastActivityDate="2024-01-18T11:20:28.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-19T12:22:48.540" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a platinum ring and I want to put a diamond on it. Is there a possibility to make the diamond &amp;quot;looking bright in the day&amp;quot; ? By this I mean that the diamond would look like if he was emitting light even in the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a thing to propose :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting a fluorescent/phosphorescent stuff between the diamond and the ring. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18058" LastActivityDate="2024-01-19T12:22:48.540" Title="Make a diamond bright" Tags="|jewelry|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2024-01-19T23:57:10.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-01-21T16:34:01.870" Score="5" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations on how to remove the finish from this ring?  I'm thinking about trying to refinish it. It's a cheap ring but has sentimental value.  When I bought it, it was listed as stainless steel/titanium. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3PIu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3PIu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18067" LastActivityDate="2024-01-26T09:53:10.937" Title="How to remove the finish from a stainless steel/titanium ring?" Tags="|metalworking|metal|jewelry|restoration|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12035" CreationDate="2024-01-21T21:22:43.730" Score="12" ViewCount="2140" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mom has a Silvercrest 33B1 sewing machine and I am looking for an appropriate set of needles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She mostly sews curtains, tableclothes and chair covers. These I assume use thin fabrics, either synthetic or cotton ones (I am not doing the sewing, so this is a rough guess) in most cases. Though, in rare cases she may sew faux leather as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wonder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do all sewing machines have common needle types? I mean, do sewing machine needles follow some standards in terms of mounting upon the machine, or does each manufacturer makes their own standard?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of needles are used in these cases?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1043" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-01-24T12:48:10.913" LastActivityDate="2024-01-24T12:48:10.913" Title="Do all sewing machines have the same needles (mounting wise)?" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12034" CreationDate="2024-01-22T06:00:59.807" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your machine takes a 130/705H type needle, which is the most common type of sewing machine needle (some older machines take a different type of needle).  Thankfully, sewing machine manufacturers have standardized the needle types used, although some of my antique machines (e.g., 1890 parlor treadle) take a different needle size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This information is on page 7 of your user manual.  If you don't have a copy, you can look at one here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1221393/Silvercrest-Snm-33-B1.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1221393/Silvercrest-Snm-33-B1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The needle size refers to the sturdiness of the needle.  You would use smaller sizes (9 is the smallest size I have seen) for lighter fabrics and the heaviest sizes (20 is the largest size I have seen) for leather, heavy canvas, etc.  Schmetz, a reputable needle manufacturer, has a great reference page here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.schmetzneedles.com/pages/sewing-machine-needle-chart&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.schmetzneedles.com/pages/sewing-machine-needle-chart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17982" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T06:00:59.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12034" CreationDate="2024-01-22T06:11:39.603" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 systems of machine needles that are incompatible with each other: those for &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; machines and those for professional or &amp;quot;factory&amp;quot; machines. Whenever you find machine needles in sewing shops or online and there's no specification of what type they are, in 99% of all cases they are of the &amp;quot;130/705H system&amp;quot;, which means they are &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; machine needles and will fit in all common sewing machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; machine needle packages there are also 2 very common types: Those with a selection of different needle sizes and those with only one needle size. A combi package with different sizes is always a good idea. Otherwise sizes 70 - 90 are considered the &amp;quot;universal&amp;quot; sizes that are suitable for most fabrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard pointy needles are suitable for woven fabrics (like curtains, table cloths, shirts, blouses and trousers and faux leather).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;There are special blunt needles for sewing knit fabric (like jersey, t-shirts etc.) and special leather needles with a cutting edge. Using the wrong needle for your fabric can break it or in the worst case damage your fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-01-22T06:11:39.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12033" CreationDate="2024-01-25T17:42:20.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd start with a 0000 steel wool. If you don't get the results you want I'd go to a 000 and then a 00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper feels like a last resort. Sandpaper will start to bite into the metal and soften the features of the ring. If you have to go there I'd go as fine as possible to start, maybe 1000 and work my way to something rougher if fine does not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6946" LastActivityDate="2024-01-25T17:42:20.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2482" CreationDate="2024-01-27T21:54:01.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are a beginner and have a limited budget, find a used machine from the 70's or earlier that is in good running condition.  They are still around, and they are workhorses that were built to be tools, compared to today's low-end machines that were built for occasional use and might not hold up under regular use - when I was buying machines 10-20 years ago for my children and the low-end machine I got would not keep its tension through an entire sewing project, and when I went back to the sewing machine store to complain, the salesperson chided me for buying a low-end machine for regular use #facepalm, saying they weren't built for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My go-to machine right now is a free-arm New Home machine from the 70s or maybe 80s that has 30 stitches including decorative and stretch stitches and a semi-automatic buttonholer.  My previous machine was a free-arm machine from Sears (made by White) from the 70s that had six stitches, including a blind-hem stitch that I ended up not using because I liked hand-stitched hems better, and no buttonholer. My previous machine to that was my first machine that my parents bought me when I was in 7th grade; a non-free-arm (because they didn't make them then) Sears machine that had straight and zigzag and nothing else.  Any of these machines will be able to be handed down to your grandchildren if taken care of properly.  A computerized machine will only be good as long as the computer is okay, and when the computer dies, the machine will probably not be worth repairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The minimum you would need as a beginner is straight stitch, zigzag stitch (Preferably with an infinite variability to width and not just a few fixed widths, which they do on low-end machines these days), and if you anticipate needing to make a lot of buttonholes, at least a semi-automatic buttonholer.  I think my six-stitch machine was perfect for almost everything I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you didn't ask about this, but since you might not know to ask:  When you are making  clothing, you not only need to have sewing skills, but also fitting skills, which can be developed over time.  If you make the garment and try it on and it doesn't fit right, you can't return it.  Fortunately there are a lot of references about fitting skills these days, both in print and online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the best to you in your adventure of making your own clothes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17982" LastActivityDate="2024-01-27T21:54:01.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-06T08:07:10.427" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of string is this at the end of this lanyard? I want to find string like this. It's to attach to a loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hS0Xh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hS0Xh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17614" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T20:41:37.237" Title="What type of string is this?" Tags="|string|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9095" CreationDate="2024-02-06T14:04:44.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Five-hole ground is known under several other names like Rose ground, Point a la Vierge, Virgin ground, fond de Mariage, fond de Flandres, Flanders ground, etc (that made it harder for me to find it). The notable feature is that it looks like a checkers board with every odd field empty. I do understand how this can be confusing when you try transitioning from an &amp;quot;empty&amp;quot; field to a different ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can see an example on the Wikipedia page for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobbin_lace_ground&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bobbin lace ground&lt;/a&gt; (for some reason I cannot include the picture directly, so &lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/00/Rose_ground_2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's the direct link&lt;/a&gt;). There's rose ground in the center, cloth ground in the left and half stitch ground in the right. &lt;strong&gt;They use the same amount of pins.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the other direction, when you want to transition from cloth ground to five-hole ground, you need 2 incoming pairs of bobbins for each square of five-hole ground, so &lt;strong&gt;two rows of cloth ground become one square of five-hole ground&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's probably most confusing is that you cannot draw the diagram for this on a simple grid. You need to double the number of dots in your grid and ignore half of them. &lt;strong&gt;The five-hole ground is shifted one dot up compared to the cloth ground&lt;/strong&gt;. That means that threads enter and exit the pattern at a 90° angle, as opposed to the usual 45° angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFuaI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFuaI.png&quot; alt=&quot;lace grid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light blue is the rose ground / Flanders ground / five-hole ground /whatever you want to call it.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Light green is cloth ground.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Dark blue is the transition from one ground to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Points A, B, C &amp;amp; D form one square of the five-hole ground.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You have 2 pairs of bobbins each coming into the ground at points A &amp;amp; B, meaning that 4 pairs form one square.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You have 2 pairs of bobbins each leaving the square at points C &amp;amp; D.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Let's assume point Z is the start of cloth ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At point Z you have one pair of bobbins coming from the left (not visualized here). This is your weaver pair. One pair of bobbins comes in from point C (dark blue). This is a passive pair. Work cloth stitch, place pin at Z and close with cloth stitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue working cloth stitch to point X. There you take in another passive pair from the left (not visualized).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue working cloth stitch to point Y. There you take in the second dark blue pair from the five-hole ground as a passive pair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the same steps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2024-02-06T15:11:21.747" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T15:11:21.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12051" CreationDate="2024-02-06T16:48:07.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's the same as I've got on my phone lanyard - which it looks like it is - it's braided nylon cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want 1mm to 2mm.  Both are widely available, but the little loops like that are often 1mm or 1.5mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2024-02-06T16:48:07.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12051" CreationDate="2024-02-08T18:56:44.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are in the USA or Canada you might be familiar with Handy Hundred string, which is common in 2.5 mm / about 1/10&amp;quot; or there abouts.&#xA;The same kind of line is also for sale as braided fishing line in 0.9mm (1/32&amp;quot;?)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;While not the same string it is near enough to do the work and seems readily available online in/from the USA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Europe you sometimes find string that will do the same job in shipchandlers as braided whipping line, and something that might do the job in builders markets as string to use in brick laying, but I have never been able to find a reliable source from one time to the next.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I guess these options might also work in the rest of the world but I have not tested that for myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="1388" LastEditDate="2024-02-08T20:41:37.237" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T20:41:37.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12057" CreationDate="2024-02-08T20:42:29.407" Score="4" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently dyed my 100% rayon dresses wine red with regular Rit Dye (not their synthetic &lt;em&gt;dyemore&lt;/em&gt; brand) because rayon is considered a natural fiber like cotton and linen, and requires the regular dye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was very happy with the results, however it bleeds out the dye at every wash to the point that I'm losing the color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, even though synthetic dye is not meant for natural fibers, will it &amp;quot;stick&amp;quot; better and not wash out as much? I'm thinking about re-dyeing my natural fiber dresses with synthetic dye if this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a sort of stretchy knit fabric that is marked 100% rayon. To be sure it wasn't polyester, I cut off a little scrap and put it in water to test if it would float like a synthetic fiber or sink like a natural fiber, and it must be natural fibers, because it sunk to the bottom quickly which makes me think it is indeed rayon as it was marked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18121" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2024-02-08T23:08:24.107" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T23:08:24.107" Title="Will synthetic dye bleed less than regular dye when used on rayon?" Tags="|fabric|dyeing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12056" CreationDate="2024-02-08T23:07:59.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ritdye.com/faqs/dyeable-fabrics-and-materials/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rit Dye website&lt;/a&gt;, rayon is considered synthetic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rit All-Purpose Dye can dye:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Washable Fabrics Containing Synthetic Fibers: Such as nylon, rayon and viscose&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Rit, and most other resources, recommend using a dye designed for natural fibers for it. That said, rayon does not take dye in the same way or as well as cotton, which is likely why you are losing so much color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few resources, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.waxonstudio.com/blog/how-to-dye-rayon#:%7E:text=Rayon%20dyes%20beautifully%20with%20fiber,cotton%20with%20fiber%20reactive%20dyes.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Waxon Studio&lt;/a&gt; (a textile workshop), recommend using fiber reactive dyes (aka procion dyes) with cellulose fibers like rayon. These are a type of dye specifically designed for cellulose, and will likely give you the most stable result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2024-02-08T23:07:59.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-09T22:14:49.367" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new with this craft, 2 years BUT not steady because of discouraging results so .....&#xA;Can anyone tell me please how do I get the pretty or  results when I add color to my epoxy resin the white alcohol ink? When I add the white alcohol ink on top of the color it doesn't activate and start that beautiful process of spreading or Blooming, it's just there and it ends up just being color being right where I put the drops . I hope someone understands my question and can tell me what I'm doing wrong.&#xA;TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18124" LastActivityDate="2024-02-25T10:11:36.350" Title="Working with epoxy resin crafts/colors blooming or spreading" Tags="|epoxy-resin|color|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12060" CreationDate="2024-02-09T22:16:58.783" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Brother XL-5060 from a freecycle post recently. After unjamming the bobbin and finding a replacement presser foot, I've got the machine to sew quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One issue though is that it doesn't seem to be able to sew slowly, at least not at first. Pressing the foot pedal down softly, nothing happens, there's a hum from the machine as if it wants to go but then doesn't, then eventually it starts rolling, but at this point it's running too fast.  If I ease off the pedal it now slows down to acceptably slow speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the generated hum before the machine starts and the fact that it slows down after it starts if I ease off the pedal makes me think there is some kind of resistance in the mechanism which the motor is trying to overcome.  The foot pedal itself is a generic one with no sensitivity adjustment on the bottom of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought some sewing machine oil and oiled the machine according to the instructions, but that didn't make any difference.  It still only has a &amp;quot;burst&amp;quot; start mode, which is no good for precision sewing, or for a relative beginner like me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I got it for free, I can't really justify spending the £80 the local shop want to service it - if I could guarantee that they would be able to fix the issue, then maybe I would think about paying it, but I have a no such guarantee.  Therefore, I'm looking for some basic troubleshooting advice on how to solve this issue, if at all possible.  It would be really nice to use this machine as it was a free item and I don't want to buy a new machine if I can get this one to work smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18125" LastActivityDate="2024-02-11T10:06:11.407" Title="Brother sewing machine starts too quickly" Tags="|sewing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12059" CreationDate="2024-02-09T23:11:02.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention in your starting process the practice of using the hand wheel to begin the motion. Your reference to relative beginner reinforces this omission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every sewing machine I've used, which is only a half dozen different models, have had hand wheels. One begins to press the foot pedal, then applies rotation to the wheel to address the problem you are experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not used a computer controlled programmable machine (complex embroidery) but your description allowed me to find images of that specific model and it appears to be a slightly-above basic design, with the aforementioned hand wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider to apply sufficient pressure to get the hum, then rotate the wheel by hand while increasing the pedal pressure. You'll note that the wheel does not have any protrusions to unsafely grab a finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your comment has caused me to run the process through my alleged mind. It's possible that I've overlooked one aspect of use that had become ingrained in my foot. I don't have a machine handy to test it at the moment, but I have the feeling that my method of starting slow was to press to get the hum, turn the hand wheel, then pulse the pedal deeper and back to shallow to get the desired slower speed. It's not a particularly scientific description of this currently-uncertain method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach is to get the hum, spin the hand wheel and immediately back off a bit on the pedal. That feels better in my mind at this point, and may be the more appropriate method I've used. Barely once a month stitching projects keeps this stuff buried in the dust between my ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2024-02-10T00:44:12.757" LastActivityDate="2024-02-10T00:44:12.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12059" CreationDate="2024-02-10T07:23:23.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you got it for free, if a service was guaranteed to fix it, you could consider whether the cost of the service is what you would pay to buy a fully-working machine second hand. You could also try to interpret what the shop says, to guide DIY efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But like you, I'd be inclined to try and fix it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that a machine that needs oiling also needs a good clean, and oil + lint will make for a sticky mess that causes the motor to stall at low powers. So I'd be looking for materials to show me how to strip it down thoroughly and clean everything possible, not just the regular cleaning instructions in the manual. Apart from removing covers, I'd be wary of dismantling blindly - some parts will relocate precisely with no tricks, but I wouldn't bank on all of them going together so easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2024-02-10T07:32:58.680" LastActivityDate="2024-02-10T07:32:58.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12059" CreationDate="2024-02-10T17:12:41.327" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked up the manual for your machine, which is here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.brother.com/g/b/manualtop.aspx?c=eu_ot&amp;amp;lang=en&amp;amp;prod=hf_xl505050605070euk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://support.brother.com/g/b/manualtop.aspx?c=eu_ot&amp;amp;lang=en&amp;amp;prod=hf_xl505050605070euk&lt;/a&gt;  It says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foot Controller&#xA;When you press the foot controller down lightly, the machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop. You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you need to practice pressing the controller down lightly and see if you can finesse it, or maybe that slower speed part is in need of repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17982" LastActivityDate="2024-02-10T17:12:41.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12059" CreationDate="2024-02-11T10:06:11.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have encountered the same problem to a different degree in several sewing machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sewing machines with a weaker motor struggle most with this. All low - mid priced modern machines I encountered (not a lot to be honest) had a relatively weak motor compared to vintage machines. I have a machine that is 40 - 50 years old and starts much smoother, though not completely smooth. I've seen digital machines that can execute a single stitch perfectly and stop again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the needle goes down, the thread is held under quite a lot of tension by the tension discs. This is probably one source of resistance you experience and it's how the machine is supposed to work, so not a defect you can eliminate. You can test this theory by sewing on scrap fabric with the presser foot raised (which also disengages the tension discs). If the problem disappears, it's a &amp;quot;feature&amp;quot; of your machine. You'll have to give the machine a push via the hand wheel (called &amp;quot;balance wheel&amp;quot; in the manual) to start it very slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &amp;quot;hack&amp;quot; around this is to reduce the tension on the bobbin case, but this is fiddly and you can cause other problems if you don't get it right. There's a tiny screw on the side of the bobbin case that presses a small metal plate (the tension spring) against it. When you insert the bobbin (page 17 of the manual), you pull the thread through an opening in the side and pull it under this tension spring. You can loosen it very slightly and also loosen the upper tension control (see manual) to reduce the overall tension the machine has to overcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another hack is to stop the machine when the needle is still going up instead of when the needle reaches the highest point. That has to do with how the machine sews. At the lowest needle position the thread is pulled into a loop and around the bobbin casing. When going up the thread is pulled up to close the loop again. At the highest needle position the loop is closed. When the needle descends, it pulls on the thread to go into the fabric and form a new loop. So if you start the machine whith the needle still moving up, the thread tension is lowest and the machine needs the least amount of energy to start. But most of the time you'll still need to adjust the needle position with the hand wheel, so this hack doesn't have any advantage against giving the machine a push while starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem ist still very noticeable even with the presser foot fully raised, there's some resistance in your machine. Others have already proposed to clean all lint and dust out of the machine. You won't believe what a difference this can make!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-02-11T10:06:11.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-11T17:00:50.913" Score="4" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have gotten my hands on some powdered pigment that is uv reactive, meaning that it reflects UV light in the visible spectrum. I would like to use this pigment for a few projects outside. The pigments are more or less transparent in daylight so I want to use it to coat some outside items to they will light up when lit up with UV light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is simply that I am a complete troglodyte when it comes to painting. So I would really appreciate some help with picking out a paint or coat that is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transparent to UV light. If it reflects or absorbs the UV light, the pigment wont work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durable enough to be used outside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adheres to ceramics and wood. I am planning on coating wood and flower pots initially.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As transparent to visible light as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at coatings such as epoxy and polyethylene and acrylic, but epoxy seems to yellow in UV, and polyethylene seems to absorb it, while acrylic seems to be pretty brittle and (I assume) will then not be great for wood coatings.&#xA;I would not mind using a paint, but I have no idea of what kind of base to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18132" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2024-02-11T19:16:30.600" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T20:29:47.670" Title="What kind of coating or paint can i use for UV pigments?" Tags="|paint|plastic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12064" CreationDate="2024-02-12T16:01:11.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shop SolarColorDust.com gives this information in their &lt;a href=&quot;https://solarcolordust.com/solarcolordust-white-to-shadow-sunlight-sensitive-color-change-pigment/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UV Pigment instructions&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions for Use:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;SolarColorDust® should be mixed at a ratio of 1 gram of pigment to 1 fl oz of a &lt;strong&gt;clear drying base&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This mixture can be applied to a WHITE surface in order to see a vivid color change!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Can be mixed into &lt;strong&gt;clear epoxy resin, neutral paints, Mod Podge, lacquer, varnish, clear nail polish&lt;/strong&gt;, and more in order to be applied to a white surface.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Angelus Neutral Paint is recommended for applying to shoes and other textiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to these options, you can also use a tacky glue (Aileen's Tack-It Over and Over, various repositionable spray adhesives, etc) to apply the pigment directly then coat with a varnish, though you may end up using more of the pigment in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting is that the instructions quoted above also contain a warning about leaving UV-reactive items in the sun, as doing so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;will create a &amp;quot;sunburn&amp;quot; on the pigment eventually causing it to cease changing color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the pigment cannot withstand extreme UV exposure, any medium you choose to mix it into should also be fine; color changes in these media are caused by extended exposure to UV, and an amount that would damage them would also damage the pigment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2024-02-13T15:24:17.267" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T15:24:17.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-13T22:01:04.087" Score="1" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I pick up a pattern from some designer which has a neat technique they use (for example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravelry.com/bundles/fission-knitting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fission knitting by Mary W. Martin&lt;/a&gt;) that I believe they invented, and certainly make a business out of teaching, and then I wanted to start designing, and maybe selling, my own patterns with it. What is the proper etiquette/requirements for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, nobody who writes pi shawl patterns ever seems to credit Zimmerman in them, and basically everything falls under the umbrella of &amp;quot;technique&amp;quot;, but conversely it also just feels like it would be kinda scummy to just lift the technique like that, even if it would be a genuinely different pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18142" LastActivityDate="2024-02-13T22:01:04.087" Title="Using someone else's technique in your own patterns" Tags="|knitting|pattern-drafting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-13T22:03:11.180" Score="3" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to make a hurricane lantern style candleholder that consists of a photo of the night sky, but where the stars are transparent so that the light can shine through while the black night sky remains opaque. I have tried printing a photo on a transparent acetate and wrapping that around a glass candleholder, but the black of the night sky doesn’t end up being opaque, so it ends up looking a bit washed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3j6HB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3j6HB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example image of the night sky&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered using a cricut to make an opaque silhouette, where the stars are cutouts, but I don’t think that the cricut would be able to cut the number of stars needed, and make them sufficiently small (when I upload to the design space it oversimplifies it, so only the largest stars appear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would like something that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is heat resistant enough to withstand being in proximity to a candle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can be produced using a printer or cricut, I’d like to be able to make several hundred of these for an art installation, so want to avoid something that will take several hours per candleholder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) is scratch resistant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice/thoughts would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18141" LastActivityDate="2024-02-14T20:25:54.600" Title="How to make a candle holder with very small transparent windows" Tags="|printing|lighting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12069" CreationDate="2024-02-13T23:05:00.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Cameo Silhouette will cut metal foil, and I suspect the Cricut will perform in a similar manner. Metal foil will certainly be heat resistant and also quite opaque where needed. It's likely you'll have to paint the foil black before cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon has a wide selection of foils that I'll use as examples. The first one of note on the list is 12&amp;quot; wide, 30&amp;quot; long and 0.005&amp;quot; thick (0.127 mm) and may be the top choice for your project. There are 38 gauge sheet offerings, but that's 0.006&amp;quot;/0.152mm, slightly thicker. Another entry is a meter long, 100 mm wide and 0.03 mm thick, which may be easier to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting metal foil/sheet is going to create a dull blade, but the brass and aluminum offerings are going to be softer than the steel of the blade and may last a sufficient time for your purposes. You'll know when it's time to replace the blade when it tears instead of cutting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't wedded to the idea of using the craft cutter, consider that one could hammer a series of nails into a suitable plank. Selecting various diameter nails would provide the variation of hole sizes required, and it would be important to drive them into the plank in such a manner that the protrusions are of uniform length. The support surface for the foil could be a softwood or a fairly hard foam, with the plank being shifted between foils to prevent the hole depth from becoming excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laser cutting metal = expensive to purchase, not all that cheap to farm out. My CO2 laser will not cut metal of any &amp;quot;thin-ness&amp;quot; and a fiber laser runs into the mid-to-high four digits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My travels for more information leads me to &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07GCW9FL5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;leather punch sets&lt;/a&gt; with hole sizes from 1/8&amp;quot; to 1&amp;quot; depending on the set selected. Image from link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsakS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsakS.png&quot; alt=&quot;punch set&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to turn it into a mass production sort of build, more than one punch set installed in the plank would provide for some variation. I'd suggest a lever-type press rather than a hammer to apply the necessary cutting force. I can envision placing the plank, dropping the press, lifting the press, rotating the work piece to a different orientation and performing the sequence again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've worked in a print shop environment where the huge paper cutting blade performed its task with a piece of HDPE under the entire length. It provides for a solid cut and can take repeated cuts without replacement needed. End grain hard wood cutting boards may serve as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1562" LastEditDate="2024-02-14T01:24:42.990" LastActivityDate="2024-02-14T01:24:42.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-14T10:56:52.030" Score="6" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of paper/material is suitable for acrylic paint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question arose in the context of children switching from drawing with watercolors to acrylic. For watercolors they simply used white printer paper, but this seems not to be good enough for acrylic - it gets easily deformed and/or soak through. Buying canvas does not seem an economically viable option - as the paintings are mostly of low quality, but produced in great quantities. Still, once the children have put their hands on acrylic paints, they will use them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18147" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T15:11:53.283" Title="What kind of inexpensive paper/material is suitable for acrylic paint?" Tags="|painting|acrylic-paint|canvas|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12071" CreationDate="2024-02-14T18:08:04.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my daughter, to use with a range of paints, pens, etc. I get cheap sketch books (I've now checked, it's 130gsm). We have a chain of shops selling basic art supplies, toys, and discount books. Their own brand materials are well worth it for kids (and adults joining in with them) even if they wouldn't be a good idea for professional art, except as practice materials, or for archival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She's just been using her acrylics on scrap card though (smooth, coated stuff). That's another option but not something I buy specially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2024-02-15T12:33:07.960" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T12:33:07.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12071" CreationDate="2024-02-14T19:54:24.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot recommend any specific brand of paper, but you should be able to recognize suitable sketch books by feeling them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you are familiar with the feel of your current paper. How stiff is one sheet if you hold one edge horizontally and let it droop? The usual thickness (or more correctly: weight) of printer paper is 80 g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Some very cheap sketch books use paper of only 70-75 g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. You can feel the difference with your bare hands if you are used to touchng regular printer paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to find sketch books of 85 - 90 g/m&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; online or in office supply shops, probably marketed at college or university students. Anything that feels thicker than usual but still thinner than cardboard is ok. They usually have their weight printed somewhere on the front cover or on the back. This small difference makes it more resilient against warping, but keeps the price in mid-range (as opposed to specialized aquarelle paper). I doubt that you'll need paper that's even thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-02-14T19:54:24.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12069" CreationDate="2024-02-14T20:25:54.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printing with a black and white laser printer onto acetate would be worth a try, assuming you've currently used an inkjet or even a colour laser. It would also be a good idea to threshold the image first, or at the very least greyscale it and stretch the contrast so the black is dense black. This would be essential if using a colour laser printer, to avoid composite black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to disable any toner saving or draft modes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course laser acetate is different to inkjet acetate (uncoated and with a higher melting point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2024-02-14T20:25:54.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12071" CreationDate="2024-02-14T20:39:41.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want either canvas paper or canvas boards; both of these are very inexpensive alternatives to stretched canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canvas paper comes in a pad, much like a standard sketchbook; numerous brands are available. The price runs about $1 per sheet (USD). Images shown as examples are from two larger brands, Strathmore and Canson; many other brands are also available, from just about any source that sells art supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MyJjj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MyJjj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The yellow cover for Strathmore Canvas Paper, textured finish, 10 sheets&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uG0uz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uG0uz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The blue cover for Canson Oil &amp;amp; Acrylic paper, 24 sheets&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canvas Panels are effectively a small board wrapped in gessoed canvas, ready to use; pricing for these also runs around $1 each when purchased in bulk. Since they're around a solid base, they will have no warping at all; these are what I remember using myself as a child, learning to paint with acrylic. Many brands offer these, and I commonly see them as &amp;quot;generic&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;private label&amp;quot; (store brand) offerings in nearly every store selling acrylic painting supplies; the example image below is a random option from Amazon:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qERY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qERY.png&quot; alt=&quot;A stack of Horizon Group USA branded Canvas Panels&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastActivityDate="2024-02-14T20:39:41.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12071" CreationDate="2024-02-14T20:50:02.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the children are young -- or even if they're old but not picky -- cardboard can be great for acrylic paints. Cut up boxes with them and then use the results as your canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="343" LastActivityDate="2024-02-14T20:50:02.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12071" CreationDate="2024-02-15T15:11:53.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'll second &lt;strong&gt;thicker paper&lt;/strong&gt;, but, unlike the other answerers here, I think you'll need paper weights of at least 200 GSM, preferably above 250/300, especially if you want to prevent warping.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For better results, you'll want to apply a ground first (of (acrylic) gesso, for example). Some of the warping of even lighter paper types might be prevented this way, but require you to put in some more time and effort: you'll need to fasten the paper with tape along the edges to retain the tension and assure that they dry flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More rigid materials like &lt;strong&gt;plastic&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;wood&lt;/strong&gt; and even &lt;strong&gt;metal&lt;/strong&gt; can be used (user discretion advised, as the hazards involved obviously vary with the age of the children).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For longevity, all of these, and especially plastic and metal, need proper preparation, or they will simply not last particularly long (but possibly long enough for your purposes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These materials can be prepared by sanding (and with metals in particular it is important to wear a mask and to work outside or in a well-ventilated area), to give them more texture for the paint to hold on to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After this, I recommend applying a ground as well. With wood to prevent it from absorbing the paint and bleeding; with plastics and metals for additional grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider using objects that aren't flat or rectangular. Regard everything in thrift stores as potential &amp;quot;canvas&amp;quot;, and only then check if it's viable: this can open up some creative new territory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It might be wise to check with local shops: thrift stores at times get large supplies of useful materials; hardware stores tend to have a lot of materials they can't sell any longer (especially wood), which they might want to give away for free or very low prices. For cardboard you could even organize a door-to-door collection (we used to do things like this when I was young, but it might not be considered safe any more).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2024-02-15T15:11:53.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11681" CreationDate="2024-02-17T07:01:29.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about 99% sure that isn't crochet, Tunisian or otherwise, but knitting. There are quite a few &amp;quot;diagonal&amp;quot; knitting stitch patterns out there, and this looks to be one of them, made with knit and slipped stitches. Look up &amp;quot;diagonal basketweave knitting pattern,&amp;quot; which seems close. It's finished with crochet slip stitches all along the opening, and of course, the flower. A pattern for a similar flower would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ch 6, sl st. in first ch to form ring.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;ch 4, tr 3. ch 4, sl st in to loop&lt;/em&gt; rep. italicized portion 5 more times for a total of 6 &amp;quot;petals&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This flower is very similar, although in the picture it does look as if maybe that one was done by making single crochets in a magic ring and THEN making the petals by going in to the sc stitches. And also they seem to only have 5 petals, and something I can't make out to attach it to the purse. Maybe 10 sc in a loose magic ring or a ring of chains, going in to every other one on the second round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18157" LastEditorUserId="18157" LastEditDate="2024-02-17T07:02:38.537" LastActivityDate="2024-02-17T07:02:38.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-17T09:27:10.897" Score="0" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've had an issue where after I set my presser-foot lifter and begin&#xA;to sew in a straight-line thread pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The needle does stall due to&#xA;insufficient torque.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, I release the foot and raise the cloth&#xA;off the feed plate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The threads are not tightened up to the cloth;&#xA;rather, they are loose, frayed, and gumming-up the feed-dog hole.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPkmM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPkmM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;an image of a sewing machine shows the presser foot pushing the&#xA;cloth onto the feed platform and the feed dog hole through which the&#xA;bobbin thread exits into the seen-cloth. &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I pull out the&#xA;cloth, cut all the loose bends, check that everything is set&#xA;according to the manual, and repeat the process only to run into the&#xA;same bug....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of the aftermath....&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tw5MU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tw5MU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;an image of the loose cloth coming out of the back of the sewn-cloth. &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, somehow the thread taken into the back of the shirt is not entering tightly but it's rather being kept under the feed-dog hole until I lift the sewn-cloth and manually pull the gumbled-thread out of the feed-dog hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll send a photo of my rig and the gummed up feed-dog hole after 48 hours. Until that time, please let me know if there would be other useful info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18158" LastActivityDate="2024-02-17T16:01:19.677" Title="Gumble of thread through bobbin hole? Thread loose on down-side of cloth?" Tags="|sewing|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2024-02-19T21:42:06.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12079" CreationDate="2024-02-17T15:56:14.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1HF8l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1HF8l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a photo of a thread properly wrapped around the thread-guide. &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This bug is reliable reproduced by not properly wrapping the thread under the thread-guide (at the red u-turn indicator). The lack of sufficient pully-caused tension results in the top thread expanding into the feed-dog chamber rather than being pulled tautly against the underside of the sewn-cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other signs of this operator-caused error are a loose top-thread or an overactive spool, but the easiest way to verify the problem is to follow the thread. The thread should be fully behind the thread-guide-ridge, leaving it inexposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, looser thread types should go into the &lt;strong&gt;duck-eye&lt;/strong&gt;--see image, red circle--(between the spool and thread-guide) rather than beneath the &lt;strong&gt;duck&lt;/strong&gt;--see image, purple square--, resulting in greater tension on the line.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYEEy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYEEy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of duck-eye, red circle; duck, purple square. &quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18158" LastEditorUserId="18158" LastEditDate="2024-02-17T16:01:19.677" LastActivityDate="2024-02-17T16:01:19.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-19T09:17:24.653" Score="2" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am researching machine knitting techniques, which have come up in my work. I otherwise know very little about this craft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have encountered diagrams such as the one below, but do not know how to interpret them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone please explain to me how to read these diagrams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFAFn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFAFn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18162" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-02-19T09:47:00.940" LastActivityDate="2024-03-26T09:13:23.757" Title="How to understand knitting diagrams" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-19T21:10:54.410" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically I used to doodle a lot when I was younger and decided to get back into it. I managed to find a comic and game artist that EXACTLY matches what I want my drawings to look like, and my goal is to one day reach his level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His name is Mateusz Skutnik. I’d really love to be able to draw like him but focus more on landscapes and less on subjects/creatures. Another great artist that I’ve always found inspiration from is Adolf Lachman for his work on the games Machinarium and Samorost 3, and also the landscape sketches of Peter Draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m struggling to know where to start? What are some good resources for what I’m looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alphonso Dunn’s urban sketching videos seem like a good starting point, but his style is more on the realism side, any other good recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m assuming that a good roadmap to start with is the one from the wiki and I’ll just skip the things about anatomy, but how do I tailor it towards a style that is more reminiscent of the artists I mentioned? The latter question has been the source of my frustration with drawing for quite a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18167" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2024-02-29T22:35:52.703" LastActivityDate="2024-03-02T13:35:22.710" Title="How can I adopt a specific style in illustration?" Tags="|drawing|technique-identification|ink|comics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-20T21:44:54.457" Score="2" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some great fake leather boots that work well in every way except that the fake leather is now peeling off of them rather dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, is there a way to save them? Shoe polish didn't work, and I'm thinking if I paint them they'll just peel off with the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like this is probably a common problem, and it seems a real shame to toss them in a landfill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18121" LastActivityDate="2024-02-20T21:44:54.457" Title="Any way to save peeling faux-leather boots?" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12085" CreationDate="2024-02-21T16:45:03.867" Score="0" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;In trying to troubleshoot some bunched up thread on the back of the workpiece,  I noticed the following wording in the manual of my Bernina Activa 145:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faulty stitching... Sewing computer threaded with foot down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2Blj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2Blj.png&quot; alt=&quot;excerpt from Bernina manual&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would this be the case? Obviously the needle position might have an effect, but raising/lowering the foot is a manual operation and independent of the needle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it's far more ergonomic to thread the needle with the foot out of the way of my (rather large) thumb, would it make a difference to remove the foot entirely for threading, with the foot holder in the lowered position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general this section seems poorly written, in that it refers to parts of the machine that aren't mentioned anywhere else in the manual and not shown in the diagrams.  But the bullet point is unambiguous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2024-02-21T18:24:35.603" LastActivityDate="2024-02-21T20:52:43.807" Title="Why would threading a sewing machine with the foot down cause faulty stitching (and what about threading with the foot removed)?" Tags="|sewing-machine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12084" CreationDate="2024-02-21T20:52:43.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all common sewing machines the tension disks are always engaged when the sewing foot is lowered. This may cause problems during threading if the thread doesn't properly slip between the disks (so it runs over them without actually being tensioned) or even slips from them entirely. I once had this happen to me and it caused long loops of the upper thread beneath the fabric because whenever the little arm thing that pulls the thread back up during each stitch pulled, it pulled more thread from the spool instead of closing the thread loop beneath the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, the same can happen if you sew with the foot in the raised position, because that also disengages the tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-02-21T20:52:43.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-21T21:42:09.250" Score="2" ViewCount="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently been surprised at just how much red dye bleeds out of fabrics I have recently dyed whenever I wash them. I am using regular red Rit dye and natural fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if other colors will not do this as much, in particular Navy blue. I read somewhere that red dye bleeds the most, and that navy blue has a surprising amount of red in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone had had experience with navy blue dye. Does it bleed out red much or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18121" LastActivityDate="2024-02-21T21:42:09.250" Title="Navy blue dye bleeds?" Tags="|dye|dyeing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12092" CreationDate="2024-02-24T01:14:53.210" Score="3" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am asking this question on behalf of my friend who is an artist. He has been doing a painting with oil and has used drying linseed oil and turpentine oil on it to make it dry faster as he was in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been almost 2 weeks since. However, now he needs to work with the painting again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is that he doesn’t want to just paint over the existing one. He has been using oil paint as a “translucent medium” by mixing the paint with more oil to ensure that the bottom layers of the paint can also be seen through. In this situation, where the painting might have dried, is it possible to make it modifiable again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18187" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-02-24T10:14:08.333" LastActivityDate="2024-02-24T10:14:08.333" Title="Is it possible to make oil modifiable again?" Tags="|oil-paint|transparency|drying|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-24T06:23:08.167" Score="1" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making string globes with doily string for my daughter's wedding in mid May. We plan on putting fairy lights in them.  My only concern: if it rains and is humid, will the Mod Podge maintain the shape of the globes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wedding will be held outside and in an open barn. If it is raining we won't hang them outside, but it could be humid in the barn. The wedding will be in Wisconsin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18189" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-02-24T14:52:41.400" LastActivityDate="2024-02-24T14:52:41.400" Title="Will Mod Podge hold up in humid weather?" Tags="|fiber-crafts|decoupage-glue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12090" CreationDate="2024-02-24T10:12:15.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can't make the oil modifiable again, no.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your friend added the drying linseed oil and turpentine to existing oil paints (and not just pigments), it really depends on the ratio whether it improved drying time or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have several answered questions on the drying time of oils, which I recommend perusing, or sending to your friend. You can find these on the right side of this page (they were automatically linked to your question based on keywords and tags).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The general response to how long the drying of oil paints take is that it depends on so many variables that we can't really give any concrete answer&lt;/strong&gt;: humidity, temperature, the aforementioned ratio of oils and pigments and other additives, the amounts and types of oils and pigments used, &amp;amp;c. all have a bearing on drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the thickness and current state, your friend might be able to &lt;em&gt;add&lt;/em&gt; additional layers, but be sure to heed the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fat_over_lean&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fat over lean rule&lt;/a&gt;: any new layer must consist of more oil than the former, so the painting will dry from the bottom (canvas/panel) upwards, and provide a (more) stable whole.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I realize you mention your friend &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;doesn’t want to just paint over the existing one&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, but he has to retain the transparency anyway (because of the required addition of oil), and this is the only stable way to adjust the current painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2024-02-24T10:12:15.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12091" CreationDate="2024-02-24T14:51:23.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a more general question about the humidity resistance of Mod Podge &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/questions/7961/humidity-tolerance-of-mod-podge&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mod Podge is &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;somewhat water resistant, but not waterproof&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. As Elmy points out in the answer to the linked question, you might want to opt for &lt;em&gt;Mod Podge Outdoor&lt;/em&gt;, or a similar product that's intended for more humid circumstances, but do note that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mod Podge Outdoor is not waterproof. Nor does it offer complete protection against the rays of the sun. The formula does make your project very water and UV resistant. So you can put your projects outside, but long-term exposure to the sun and rain will eventually be harmful. For projects that aren’t exposed to the elements 24 hours a day, Outdoor is perfect. &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vaessen-creative.com/en/brands/mod-podge/mod-podge-outdoor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a barn with high humidity this might still work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a potential problem with your particular craft is that the string itself could be highly sensitive to humidity, as it will absorb water, expand, and consequentially transfer this water internally. Even when attempting to cover the entire surface, I'm pretty sure (in theory) that it will remain susceptible to moisture. I have no experience with the craft or type of work, but can imagine it will lose shape because of this, so &lt;strong&gt;I would still recommend using a waterproof sealer in addition to the Mod Podge or equivalent&lt;/strong&gt;. Someone &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/crafting/comments/qsgjkq/whats_a_good_waterproof_sealant_mod_podge_isnt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; recommends &lt;em&gt;Rustoleum Clear Spray&lt;/em&gt;, so that might be a good starting point. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2024-02-24T14:51:23.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12058" CreationDate="2024-02-25T10:11:36.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is because you're resin has a high viscosity and the alcohol ink has a low viscosity but high surface tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In layman's terms the resin is thick, and the ink holds its shape well. So when you add the ink to the resin the ink doesn't want to go anywhere and the resin doesn't give it the chance to go anywhere because it presses against it and keeps it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot more to it than this, but this is the TLDR version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want your ink to bloom your best bet is to either to encourage it to move around, which I tend to do with a thin wooden toothpick, or to make your resin less viscous. A good was to do this is to warm your resin up. I sometimes do this by mixing my resin in a thin plastic jug or pot that's sitting in a basin of warm water. The hotter the water the runnier the resin. It's complicated to figure out exactly how hot you want the water as there are a lot of factors involved. The rule of thumb it that it should be cool enough that you can put your hands in it for 5-10 seconds without it stinging. Normal common sense rules apply about boiling water and burns. I shouldn't need to include them here as we're all adults and you can look them up seperately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2024-02-25T10:11:36.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-26T02:31:29.957" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 4ft by 4ft canvas that I need to finish in 3-4months. My working space is not ideal and unfortunately I have no where else to work. I have to make do with this limited working area and I'm having a difficult time figuring out how to set up my canvas so that I can work on it. It'll be an acrylic (possibly with oil after the acrylic), personal piece for a client. No pouring or throw, he wants realism and lots of detail. I mention that because while there isn't a whole bunch of splashing or dripping that'll be happening, I'll need to use a decent amount of water to keep the acrylics from drying too quickly. (This is my situation; the vent is directly above where my canvas-the only space for it-is currently, it's been incredibly cold in the early morning/evening/at night and quite warm/humid most of the day which has the others in the house constantly turning the heater &amp;amp; air conditioning on and off. I can't leave the canvas out in the living space due to our cats, and there are no other areas in the house to put it. No garage.) Here is a picture of my canvas as I have is set up against the wall with brick of all things, to keep is steady. (Note: the blue tape is not even and I am very much aware of that). Any suggestions, recommendations, words of advice are more then just appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AgeQ0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AgeQ0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: so I guess it wasn't clear enough to understand. Or maybe I didn't say it right. The reason I mention the heating/AC/etc. is to give y'all an idea of the environment in which I need to secure the canvas. There's really nowhere else to put it, and I'm not sure if the heat (from the heating) or the AC (air conditioning) would disturb the method of securing the canvas to the wall. (I.e. no glue - not strong enough/heat would weaken it, although that's kind of an obvious example, it's the best, most simple, one I can think of at the moment.) I know it sounds ridiculous, I hope this helps in understanding and if it sounds rude, that is not my intention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19197" LastEditorUserId="19197" LastEditDate="2024-02-28T16:18:43.033" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T11:49:11.780" Title="How can I secure my 4ft by 4ft canvas to the wall so that I can work on it?" Tags="|acrylic-paint|oil-paint|canvas|preparation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13094" CreationDate="2024-02-26T14:02:53.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what your budget is but I would suggest getting a basic wooden tripod aka A-frame easel. They are the most affordable and take up the least space yet are very versatile. Look for one that is fairly sturdy, has a clamp at the top, and adjustable platform height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is likely you can pick up a new one from your local art supply store for under $200.00 (with some assembly required), plus you can test it out at the store. Looking online there is a big price range for what appears to be the same models with some very overpriced ($1300 on AliBaba, what?!) so watch out for that.&#xA;Talking about something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vICRD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vICRD.png&quot; alt=&quot;(A-frame easel, sourced from https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/2017/11/09/ultimate-easel-guide/)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If purchasing one is not possible the basic design is simple enough to make yourself (if you forfeit the adjustability factor). In that case you could even lose the back leg and just lean it against the wall. Simply make a tall triangle of 2x4&amp;quot;s with the bottom horizontal attached at the height you want to work. You may want to use lighter pieces of wood but those are common, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2024-02-26T14:02:53.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12082" CreationDate="2024-02-26T14:51:38.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to learn to work in the style of the artists that inspire you is mimicry. Instead of &amp;quot;just doodling&amp;quot; start making copies of the work of the artists you like. This is 100% ok as long as don't try to take credit for their work, in fact it is a long tradition in the Fine Arts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could begin by tracing drawings to get a feel for how they are composed. Then move on to reproducing the drawings by eye. By doing this you will learn what makes those drawing work on a technical level. However, you need to refine your own drawing skills as well so you have the confidence and experience to build off of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the foundation start taking drawing and composition courses at your local art school or college. They usually have &lt;strong&gt;continuing education&lt;/strong&gt; programs that offer a range of courses. Can be pricey but consider it an investment... if you wind up with the skills of your inspirations it will certainly be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile look at reference materials on illustration, composition, etc. there are plenty of good books to get you started. Just absorb as much material as you can get your hands/eyes on. There are classics on the subject that have been around for decades for good reason, seek those out. They will have basic exercises that will give you control over line and tone. The illustrations you show also are using watercolor washes, so practice those as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, get out and practice. Get a sketch book, some drawing pencils with soft leads or a good art pen so your line will have some expression, and go draw some landscapes. You will discover so much this way and combined with the study of the illustrators as above will lead you to your own effective style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2024-03-01T00:03:31.393" LastActivityDate="2024-03-01T00:03:31.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13094" CreationDate="2024-02-27T12:56:11.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thoughts on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid air stream on the canvas&lt;/strong&gt;. Looking at the photo, I would glue a piece of cardboard to one side of the AC air outlet to redirect the air flow away from the canvas. That avoids dust and other stuff like pet hair sticking to the wet paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keeping the paint wet&lt;/strong&gt;: You mentioned using lots of water to keep the paint wet on the canvas. I suggest using an acrylic retarder instead where you need to keep the paint workable for a long time. As the name implies, it retards the drying of acrylic paints. It does make the paints a little more transparent, especially when used in high quantities, but it keeps the consistency much more viscous than water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DIY easel:&lt;/strong&gt; Such a big canvas is very unwieldy and needs a sturdy fixture. I would probably look around for something like 2 kitchen chairs or low stand-alone shelf to prop it up. Those bricks come in handy to make sure the DIY easel doesn't skid on the floor. Cover the DIY easel with some plastic foil to protect it from paint. Something like a wooden slat  or L-shaped metal strip tied or glued to the front edge of the DIY easel should be enough to secure the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glueing it to the wall:&lt;/strong&gt; You mentioned gluing the canvas to the wall, but I don't think it's the best idea. The only glue-based fastener I would consider is a removable adhesive strip like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tesa.com/en-gb/consumer/mounting-hanging-sms/adhesive-strip-powerstrips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tesa power strips&lt;/a&gt; (not affiliated; this is meant as an example, there are other brands of similar products). They promise to be removable without any residue, but in reality I've seen them leave stains behind or even pull paint from the wall. Depending on how heavy the canvas is, you need to apply a lot of adhesive to keep it on the wall. There's still a risk that the adhesive fails and the canvas falls off, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2024-02-27T15:27:16.613" LastActivityDate="2024-02-27T15:27:16.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-02-27T14:42:18.667" Score="3" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently stuck at finding a tulle (like) material as the picture below. I need it to repair torn embroidery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bought, after searching for hundreds of tulles online, 3 different kinds of tulle, and nothing matches. Now I'm not even sure if the material I'm looking for is in fact tulle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thread is almost transparent, with a bit of glitter, the holes are tinier than of regular tulle. It does not stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me identify this material or a suitable replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yX1jK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yX1jK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the tulle (like) material&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19200" LastEditorUserId="6316" LastEditDate="2024-02-28T07:03:53.147" LastActivityDate="2024-02-29T09:25:43.163" Title="Please help identify this material that looks like tulle" Tags="|fabric|material-identification|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13094" CreationDate="2024-02-28T17:14:14.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternately if you can puncture the wall, as Joachim asked in the comments, two large nails (if the drywall can handle it) or lag bolts* (made for drywall if it cannot) would do the trick. They would have to protrude enough to rest the upper stretcher bar on but not so much that they extend beyond the bars into the back of the canvas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the canvas is too heavy for two than use more, they just have to be in a straight line. Place them at the height you want the top of the canvas to rest, minus the width of the stretcher bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Bolts that either have a threaded collar that is tapped into a hole in the drywall or a butterfly clamp that expands on the backside of the wall to secure them. They spread the load out some so they do not tear out or otherwise move around in the soft drywall material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2024-02-28T17:14:14.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13098" CreationDate="2024-02-29T09:25:43.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best fitting term I could find for this fabric is &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;English Netting&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; (also called &amp;quot;english net&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;english tulle&amp;quot;) or &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobbinet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bobbinet Tulle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (also called &amp;quot;english bobbinet&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Classic Veils has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.classicveils.com/wedding-veil-fabric-types-colors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;great comparison between tulle and englisch netting&lt;/a&gt; with detailed photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern tulle usually has a diamond pattern like this:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GZGfMs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GZGfMs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diamond grid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;English netting has a hexagonal pattern like this:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OoL2s.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OoL2s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hexagonal grid&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bobbinet is woven like this:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SEuBp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SEuBp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;woven net with one color of thread running vertically, a second color of thread running diagonally to the left and a third color of thread running diagonally to the right&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way it's woven makes it non-stretch in all directions and very resistant against tearing compared to other net fabrics. That's why it's the most common background fabric for embroidered net and net lace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the thread is transparent and shiny, it's most likely 100% polyester or nylon. If the net should not stretch, it must not have any elastane or spandex content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-02-29T09:25:43.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-01T22:41:22.923" Score="2" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print a block of color in acrylic paint on a sheet of printmaking paper. Later I would print oil based inks on top of the acrylic, but both kinds of printmaking require the paper to be wet. So after I have printed the acrylic on the first go of wet paper, how can I rewet the paper, leaving the acrylic paint intact, so that I can make the ink print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or any suggestions as to how to make this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19216" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-03-02T13:09:41.567" LastActivityDate="2024-03-10T20:57:30.230" Title="Can you rewet paper with dried acrylic paint on it?" Tags="|material-selection|acrylic-paint|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13101" CreationDate="2024-03-02T13:09:21.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make it wet again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a moist cloth you can wipe the backside of the paper. If you want to work very carefully, you probably want to use a piece of cloth you know is clean or new, and distilled water.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Microfibre cloths I believe are more suitable than, for example, cotton cloths, because the latter tend to shed more fibres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printmaking paper allows for paints to penetrate the fibres, so I think your layer of acrylic paint should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder, though, if your paper actually needs to be wet for the additional printing: you can't soak the acrylic paint, and if the oil-based inks are only covering the acrylic paint, there is no use for the paper to be moist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2024-03-02T13:09:21.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12082" CreationDate="2024-03-02T13:35:22.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A different approach to &lt;a href=&quot;https://crafts.stackexchange.com/a/13096/6388&quot;&gt;rebusB's answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention how &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;right now I'm just doodling or making very rough sketches, not thinking too hard about what to draw, just to get myself comfortable with sitting down and drawing again&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. This is an excellent starting point: making it a habit to draw and enjoy doing it. Get a feel for how you naturally draw first: how you interpret what you see and express yourself. At this stage I recommend drawing with pencils, if you're not already doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a sketch you particularly enjoy for some reason (good composition, right mood, interesting shapes or linework, &amp;amp;c.), you can collect some reproductions of Skutnik's works for reference, take a fineliner, and try to approach his way of working as you trace your sketches.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you don't want to lose your sketch or simply want to have the possibility to try it again, you can initially copy or even trace your sketch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmpqZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmpqZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Mateusz Skutnik. &lt;em&gt;Submachine&lt;/em&gt;. 2021 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mateuszskutnik.com/archive/submachine-watercolor-2021-01/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is barely any shading, and what shading there is exists to make the subject pop out from the background. His linework has a certain carelessness to it, it's done in freehand (no tight straight lines), with no real attention to direction, structure, and perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it has in common with Lachmann is that everything looks organic. This is partially due to the aforementioned way of treating structure, but in his case also because of the use of subdued and natural colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on a quick glance of some of this works, I believe Lachmann mixes digital reproductions of physical media with renders to create an alienating hybrid of real and unreal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get acquainted with working, and thus seeing, this way, you can (and probably will) start making it your own through repetition. &lt;em&gt;Imitate, Assimilate, Innovate&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you feel you're hitting another obstacle, you can of course ask a new question here :), but you might also want to start educating yourself about the anatomy you mention, or composition, colour theories, shading, &amp;amp;c. What's important is that you keep enjoying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2024-03-02T13:35:22.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13094" CreationDate="2024-03-06T00:40:33.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I, too, was thinking of the Tesa strips; they also make a Velcro-type strip that can hold up to I believe 100 lbs.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I truly believe if you go to Michaels or Lowe's and tell them what you are trying to do, they will be more than happy to help.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Best of luck!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19230" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-03-06T11:49:11.780" LastActivityDate="2024-03-06T11:49:11.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-10T11:22:34.060" Score="3" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hand crank wheel that uses a thin leather cord to transmit power to another wheel. How do a join the cord together in a loop whilst on the machine under slight tension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19248" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T15:04:46.320" Title="Leather cord- joining whilst under tension for drive" Tags="|leather|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-10T16:41:08.690" Score="9" ViewCount="2947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a plastic trophy (of a big tire) that I would like to paint. For the actual tire part of the trophy, it would be cool if it felt like a tire (rubbery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a type of paint, that when dry, will feel like tire rubber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19249" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T18:16:40.463" Title="Paint that will feel like tire rubber" Tags="|painting|paint|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13109" CreationDate="2024-03-10T18:05:19.897" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A product by the brand name &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/s?k=plastidip&amp;amp;ref=nb_sb_noss&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PlastiDip&lt;/a&gt;™ exists in spray-on and brush on or dip form. It's somewhat rubbery and is often used as grips for tool handles. Available at the Amazon link in various colors and application types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used it in dip form to encase lead &amp;quot;muffins&amp;quot; to be used as fabric weights, protecting the surfaces from marking and any possibility of hazardous material transfer, but for your tire idea, a well masked hub sprayed with PlastiDip will certainly provide a tire rubber feel. Image from linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRUCT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRUCT.png&quot; alt=&quot;PlastiDip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2024-03-10T18:05:19.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13109" CreationDate="2024-03-10T20:41:11.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use &lt;strong&gt;black liquid latex&lt;/strong&gt; that is sold as body paint. It is natural latex that you can brush or pour on and it will give you an actual rubber coating. I have played with the stuff and it is a lot of fun, dries pretty fast and is real rubber so will definitely give you the feel of a rubber tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an acrylic primer as a base layer may help to get it to adhere better and that is also available in black (though the latex is opaque it cannot hurt to match the color). A quick search online shows a variety of brands, often sold as fetish item but also as makeup/fashion product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2024-03-10T20:41:11.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13101" CreationDate="2024-03-10T20:57:30.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make the paper wet again but the acrylic paint will resist the water, you cannot make dry acrylic paint &amp;quot;wet&amp;quot;, so those areas will not take up the ink in the same way. The acrylic will also increase the stiffness of the paper so intaglio techniques may not work since the paper cannot compress and release into the cuts to absorb the ink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wetting the paper, depending on how the acrylic is applied, may actually cause the acrylic layer to release from the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing monotypes the mix of the two may create interesting results and is certainly worth some experimenting, but it is unlikely you would get the same result as printing without the acrylic in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2024-03-10T20:57:30.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13109" CreationDate="2024-03-11T18:16:40.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid electrical tape will do the job. However it's pretty thick though and globs on so it will be challenging to have the underlying texture not be covered up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could try mixing in fine rubber powder filler with regular black paint, resin or whatever. Make sure to do plenty of trials before putting it on your final workpiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19252" LastActivityDate="2024-03-11T18:16:40.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-12T09:50:17.923" Score="4" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am knitting a vegetable-patterned sweater for my daughter, but have come to a part where I struggle with understanding the pattern. Perhaps someone can help me decode the instructions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pattern is originally in Swedish, and available &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.land.se/fixat/sticka-gronsakstrojan-till-den-lille-odlaren/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Google does a decent job at translating. The sweater is mostly knitted in the round, and I struggle understanding when one needs to start rounding for the neckline. Here's the exact excerpt (only including the size I'm knitting):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the armhole measures approx. 6 cm, start the neckline. Cast off the center front stitches. You must now switch to knitting back and forth. Cast off successively for the neckline 3, 3, 2, 1, 1 = 10 stitches. Knit the last stitch on the round with the base and pattern color yarn together. After the carrot pattern, continue to knit in one color with the base color until the armhole is 12cm. Now cast off 21 stitches in the center back and round for the neckline by casting off 3 stitches on each side. Then cast off the middle stitch in the armholes and skew for the shoulders: 13, 11, 10 = 34 stitches. Do not cast off but skew with turns and leave the stitches open. Place the stitches on each stitch holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point of confusion is two things, firstly: the cast-off &lt;code&gt;3,3,2,1,1&lt;/code&gt; I guess should go on the alternating sides of the front-stitches (that are to be cut later on). But isn't it odd that it's done assymmetrically? In the end, it would mean that 6 stitches are casted off on one side, and only 4 on the other. Any ideas why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly: after the cast-off in the center back, am I meant to start knitting back-and-forth first on the left-hand-side, and then on the right? Moreover, these &lt;code&gt;13,11,10&lt;/code&gt;-cast-offs, where on earth are they places? Has anyone knitted something similar and have a clue of what is going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19257" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T09:50:17.923" Title="Decipher part of a sweater pattern" Tags="|knitting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13108" CreationDate="2024-03-12T15:04:46.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume what you have is similar to a treadle powered sewing machine. Luckily there's still quite some interest in these antique machines, so you can find some tutorials online and you can even buy leather transmission cords in several online stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission cords are usually joined by a metal clip or piece of thick wire that is bent in place. Most cords you can buy already include this clip on one end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These instructions are from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://freemotionproject.com/2019/08/treadle-belt-replacement-tutorial.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Treadle Belt Replacement Tutorial&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis added by me):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get the belt in place, &lt;strong&gt;overlap the end with the clip with the long end and pull it nice and firm – not tight – around the wheel&lt;/strong&gt; on your sewing machine and treadle wheel. &lt;strong&gt;Mark a line where the ends of the treadle belt overlap&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now release the clips and shift the long end of the belt over to a convenient place you can work on it. The little narrow spot to the right of the machine is just too tight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the nail to make a hole in the end of the belt and tap it through with your hammer over the block of wood. You want it as perfectly in the middle as possible, not at an angle. Yep, using these Treadle Belt Pliers would probably make this a lot easier!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the hole created, place the belt back around the treadle wheel, and double check it’s fitting around the sewing machine properly too. Insert the metal clip into the hole and check the fit. The belt can fit a bit tight to start as it will loosen slightly as you use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other instructions like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sewingwithtreadles.wordpress.com/2012/10/05/how-to-put-on-a-treadle-sewing-machine-belt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This wordpress article&lt;/a&gt; (includes images)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXEoZIBserE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This YouTube video by Leah Day Quilting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/zst8TQtHwd0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This YouTube video by SewMachines&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you can find many more by searching for &amp;quot;how to install treadle belt&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since leather is slightly elastic and has a good grip, it should suffice to pull the cord snugly around the wheels while measuring the required length. You should not pull so much that the cord is constantly under high tension. However, leather is an organic material and will slightly change over time. &lt;strong&gt;It is perfectly normal to have to shorten a new transmission cord after 1 - 2 months.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need it to fit even tighter, it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be possible to soak the cord in water (to make it more pliable) and let it dry on the wheel (which makes it contract). But it could just as well ruin your belt, so no guarantees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-03-12T15:04:46.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-17T01:49:13.073" Score="3" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GSlyc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GSlyc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;automobile lettered emblem&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies, as I'm sure this is an unusual question. I'm wondering if anyone could come up with a way to create a stencil, or molding of the letters on this vehicle, with materials or techinques that would be safe for the car. If letters (and adhesive) are removed, I would like to be able to reattach them in the exact spot. What comes to mind is a large paper and tracing, and silicone sealant that I saw from this youtube video &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1H42C3nW_nw&amp;amp;t=393s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Make a Mold (CHEAP)&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I'm open to any creative ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19269" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T09:29:27.583" Title="Ideas on how to create a mold or stencil of lettered emblem on back of vehicle?" Tags="|material-selection|tool-selection|technique-selection|casting|silicone-mold|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13117" CreationDate="2024-03-17T09:29:27.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what sort of quality do you need, and whether you really want a mould or a stencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The former needs very good (and thick) mould release, very well applied, as car logo badges typically have a little undercut that your mould material could get into (this also suggests silicone rather than something brittle like plaster). I'd consider applying grease where the letters meet the bodywork, with an oil-based releae. I'd test both on a tucked-away bit of paintwork first. Moulding each letter separately, and assembling the moulds to get the final shape would reduce the amount of material needed, deal with the probably curved surface, and if one letter gets stuck due to flowing under the shape, you only have to redo that one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stencil might be achievable with brass rubbing techniques on thin card, followed by cutting with a scalpel. Alternatively see if you could download and print the logo (over several sheets of paper) and cut it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stencils in general work better for designs without loops, but by using repositionable spray glue you could reproduce the logo pictured. Imperfections in the positioning of the insides of the loops are very easily spotted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you want to do with it, a stencil may have the issue that the letters on the car are moulded, and have a draw angle. The face that attaches to the car will be slightly bigger than the outer face, so a stencil matching the latter won't slip over the letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T09:29:27.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-17T15:00:27.537" Score="1" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know about how artists develop their style on line art, everyone has a different line art style based on their preferences and they draw irregular lines with irregular width and length in the shapes they draw, what ways do they develop their line art style?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17620" LastActivityDate="2024-03-17T15:00:27.537" Title="How do artists develop their style on drawing line art?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2024-03-22T08:23:54.690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-20T18:00:10.163" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started drawing in crosshatching style, but I find it difficult to keep the lines inside the edges. I´m going to attached and example of what I mean. Any tips or techinique that I can apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTYzT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTYzT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I´ve tried to make the ouside line thicker but I don't like how it looks. I want to achive this kind of style:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRld0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRld0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19290" LastActivityDate="2024-03-24T17:55:04.667" Title="How to have clean lines inside the edges doing crosshatching?" Tags="|drawing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13120" CreationDate="2024-03-20T19:24:44.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could draw your hatch lines always starting at the edge you want to keep clean, drawing away from that edge. When ending the line lift off the paper while keeping the pen moving so you do not get a little blob where the pen stopped. You can do the same when starting the line, start moving in the direction you want and make first contact where you want the shading to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use masking or art tape to cover the areas you want clean if you really needed to have a hard edge where your freehand lines end. A stencil would also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just beware with any stencil or straight edge to watch out for the ink getting drawn under the edge due to capillary action. Some tape on the bottom of the masking object can raise it up enough to prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However letting the hatching exist outside the contour lines makes your drawing more free, expressive and open so you may want to consider that option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix to this more than anything will be practice. Over time you will naturally get more control of where the lines you draw freehand start and stop. Experience will also help inform you where and when a clean edge versus one that is less controlled will help the overall look of the drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2024-03-24T17:55:04.667" LastActivityDate="2024-03-24T17:55:04.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-21T04:48:10.003" Score="2" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a connect-the-dot book as a gift. I tried multiple pens on it, but all are unsatisfactory. They all have issues like ink running dry often (including in the middle of drawing a line), uneven/inconsistent line thickness (even happens in the same continuous line), and blotchiness (blobs of ink randomly and suddenly spill from pen, which ruins the piece). I would really appreciate a suggestion for a good pen that limits these problems. Thank you very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19291" LastActivityDate="2024-03-21T07:20:37.067" Title="Help buying good pen for connect-the-dot art" Tags="|material-selection|drawing|pens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13122" CreationDate="2024-03-21T07:11:02.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A liquid ink rollerball would work well if your speed is reasonably constant (pause too long and it will soak in, less so for better quality) that's my preference if I'm doing a lot on paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better quality rollerballs and ballpoint pens (Biros) are a possibility, but the cheap office supply ones often seem to give up partway through a line, as do the more decorative sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various fineliners would work well, especially those sold for engineering drawing. Again, pausing with the pen on the paper isn't a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like to hold the pen on the paper for long periods, a mechanical pencil might be the way to go. That means you're restricted to black (or a very limited range of colours) but a range of thicknesses could be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="319" LastEditorUserId="319" LastEditDate="2024-03-21T07:20:37.067" LastActivityDate="2024-03-21T07:20:37.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6239" CreationDate="2024-03-22T15:37:55.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a &lt;strong&gt;flat file&lt;/strong&gt;, which is essentially a filing cabinet with wider shorter drawers. Also look at other types of &lt;strong&gt;portfolios&lt;/strong&gt; that take up less space and cost less. There are also &lt;strong&gt;museum boxes&lt;/strong&gt; which come in a lot of sizes. Having multiple boxes/envelopes/drawers also lets you organize your work instead of having one big pile of drawings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2024-03-22T15:37:55.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13127" CreationDate="2024-03-23T21:06:13.610" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt; I have photographed original paintings by a family member and decided to print and frame a few of the photographs.  The prints are the same size as the original artwork, so 24&amp;quot; x 30&amp;quot; or 11&amp;quot; x 14&amp;quot;, for example. I'm not sure how to label them on the back of the frame so it's clear that it's a print of a photograph of the artwork and not the artwork itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; How do I format a label for such a framed print of a photograph of a painting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attempt:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Title&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Dimensions of original artwork (which is the same as the dimensions of the print)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Medium of the original artwork (e.g., acrylic on canvas)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Artist&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the above does not make clear that this is only a print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19296" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T13:30:44.643" Title="How to format a label for a framed print of a photograph of a painting" Tags="|printing|framing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13125" CreationDate="2024-03-24T10:05:36.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be a cultural or local difference, but I'm personally more familiar with the artist name coming first, wherever it involves promotional or commercial material (i.e. in western/northern Europe, but prevalent in the US as well, I believe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your question, I would simply state that the item is a reproduction, and what medium is used to produce it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;format&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;example&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;artist name&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Kazimir Severinovich Malewitsch&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;title&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Female Torso&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;original dimensions (height x width)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;52 x 73 cm&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;medium&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;oil on canvas&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is a photographic reproduction (medium)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a photographic reproduction (giclée print on canvas)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can add the artist's year of birth (and year of death if deceased) between parentheses after the artist's name.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can add the year of production after the title (e.g. '&lt;em&gt;Female Torso, 1928/32&lt;/em&gt;') or between title and dimensions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's also customary to indicate the type of edition (open or limited), and the number, in case of the limited, numbered edition. Buyers will want to know how unique their print is. This is usually added manually (and by the artist, who usually provides a signature, as well) when the prints are checked, which gives it an even more appealing look.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In your case there is no difference, but I pointed out that the dimensions noted on the back (or elsewhere) are of the original, for clarity's sake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can alternatively opt for '&lt;em&gt;Medium (this is a photographic reproduction)&lt;/em&gt;' or '&lt;em&gt;Medium. This is a photographic reproduction.&lt;/em&gt;', depending on what you find important and want to emphasize.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Once people notice the medium that is mentioned first is different from the medium of the item they are holding, they will usually realize that it's a reproduction, but this might not be as straightforward to people not familiar with either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a final note: there are standards, but no regulations: ultimately you can choose what you prefer based on your own wishes and experience.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The best thing to do, of course, is to let the artist decide, if possible, and discuss options that let the their (artistic) intentions come to the fore, but will also take into account the commercial viability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="6388" LastEditDate="2024-03-25T13:30:44.643" LastActivityDate="2024-03-25T13:30:44.643" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13125" CreationDate="2024-03-24T19:19:23.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is a reproduction it should not be labelled in the manner of an original work of art. A more appropriate label would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reproduction of &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Name of Original&lt;/em&gt; by &lt;em&gt;Artist's Name&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Date of Original&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Original Medium&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use the method of reproduction in place of the word and citing the original medium is very optional. The title should be underlined (unable to figure how to format that here). You do not want to confuse the viewer into thinking that the work at hand is in anyway an original piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, even as a family member, if you are not the original artist (ie copyright owner) you will need to have that person or their estate's permission to publicly display or sell the prints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2024-03-24T19:25:02.523" LastActivityDate="2024-03-24T19:25:02.523" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-26T00:41:35.927" Score="0" ViewCount="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Can you make purple watercolor paint by boiling purple-colored thistle flowers?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onopordum_acanthium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ca/Eselsdistel.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19300" LastActivityDate="2024-03-26T00:43:25.937" Title="Can I make purple watercolor paint from boiling Scottish thistle flowers?" Tags="|painting|paint|watercolor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13128" CreationDate="2024-03-26T00:43:25.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, if you boil thistle flowers at 212°F, the resulting solution will turn light brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes okay light brown water-color paint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19300" LastActivityDate="2024-03-26T00:43:25.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12081" CreationDate="2024-03-26T09:13:23.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be absolutely honest, I don't fully understand the topic either, but hopefully enough to point you in the right direction for doing more research on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the summary of the patent (which is badly translated from Chinese) you linked (emphasis added by me). Since the pictures in the patent clearly show a knit fabric, I replaced &amp;quot;weave&amp;quot; with &amp;quot;knit&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is entried with &lt;strong&gt;jacquard knit&lt;/strong&gt; and with reference to &lt;strong&gt;variation rib construction knit&lt;/strong&gt;, change rib construction alternately to knit using selenium-rich fiber/coolmax mixed yarns [...] and spandex thread is added on variation rib-loop and figured texture knit Road road, increase elasticity, pass through organic arrangement of yarn, &lt;strong&gt;it assumes diamond in shape flower pattern in fabric face, reverse side is in fine irregularities clour effect&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fabric that has a different knit / weave on the back than on the front are usually &amp;quot;double knit&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;double weave&amp;quot;, respectively, and the machines that can produce such a fabric are usually &amp;quot;double needle&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;double bed&amp;quot; knitting machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have (typically) one horizontal row of machine knitting needles and one vertical row. Each row can be fed a different type of yarn and each row can knit a different pattern. The needles are aligned so that each horizontal and vertical needle can pass through the same loop of the knitted fabric, thereby linking the front and back together into one coherent fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0FZTw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0FZTw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagrams show which needles are engaged or disengaged in each row of knitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFAFn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFAFn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read only the lower half of the diagram&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first 2 needles knit the fabric, the following 6 are passive in this row (they are disengaged and the machine simply skips them), the next 2 knit, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reverse order: the first 2 needles are passive, then 6 knit, 2 passive, 6 knit, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 knit, 4 passive, 4 knit, 4 passive, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 passive, 4 knit, 4 passive, 4 knit, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the diagram further, that results in the polka dot pattern seen in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExDOo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ExDOo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now read only the upper half of each diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 passive, 1 knit, 1 passive, 1 knit, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 knit, 1 passive, 1 knit, 1 passive, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in a simple rib pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And please keep in mind that both sets of needles knit at the same time, so the same thread is part of the front and the back pattern everywhere the needle is not passive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more resources to understand double bed knitting I came across are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;publication &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.researchgate.net/publication/322504973_Knitwear_Design_and_Technology&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knitwear Design and Technology&lt;/a&gt; by Tracy Diane Cassidy (University of Life)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lacelegance's LiveJournal: &lt;a href=&quot;https://lacelegance.livejournal.com/9917.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to set up front or collar bands on the knitting machine with two beds. Tutorial.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alessandrina.com &lt;a href=&quot;https://alessandrina.com/2019/05/13/casting-on-double-bed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Casting on, double bed&lt;/a&gt; which shows directly the diagram for simple rib pattern&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HU6ZQy9HDNA?feature=shared&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video by Knitology 1x1&lt;/a&gt; that shows a fabric being knitted on a double bed knitting machine that looks very much like what is described in the patent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-03-26T09:13:23.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-26T21:39:20.100" Score="4" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in making a &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensegrity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tensegrity&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; coffee table shaped like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aad9w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aad9w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;That is, two rigid (in my case wooden) frames connected by five prestressed tensioned cables (chains in the image) with a slab on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how such a table could be made height-adjustable (manually with a hand crank or automatic, should that make things easier somehow). Naturally the range of height adjustment wouldn't be big, something like 30cm. Having increments (even just at the two extremes) would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9I1o1mCJhrw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video of a Lego prototype&lt;/a&gt; using roller wheels. Such a system of two loops of cables with roller wheels plus a hand crank reel is the only solution I can think of, though quite intricate and I'm unsure how well it would scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in whether there are other parts or mechanisms that can be used to essentially lengthen or shorten tensioned cables synchronously (note that to raise the top part, the four cables in the corner need to lengthen while the one in the middle needs to shorten).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13045" LastActivityDate="2024-03-27T16:39:05.783" Title="Making a tensegrity table height adjustable" Tags="|material-selection|technique-selection|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13131" CreationDate="2024-03-26T22:38:27.417" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's an impressive prototype in the video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important aspect of your table is to avoid a design which can be back-driven. To that end, consider a worm gear drive system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video creator calls the drive wheel by the term turnstile, but it's a capstan. Note that there's a solid axle connecting one side to the other. This is a good way to motorize your table without running into side-to-side synchronization problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search presents a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0CC26QCMQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wide variety of these motors&lt;/a&gt;, including some with speed controllers, which would be pretty important for safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above link points to Amazon, image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dOCI8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dOCI8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;worm gear motor&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon also carries &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Z1M8MH3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stainless wire rope&lt;/a&gt; with 368 pound breaking strength that would be flexible enough to match the design in the video. Using flexible wire rope would permit scaling without complications, in my opinion. Use large diameter pulleys to reduce metal fatigue. If you require additional strength, increase diameter of the wire rope and the diameter of the pulleys as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from linked site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/acgVY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/acgVY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1/16&amp;quot; wire rope&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note in the image below the cross section of the wire rope. More strands means more flexibility. If you upscale to 1/8&amp;quot; diameter, aim for the highest strand count you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used both diameters, the smaller for control cables of an ultralight aircraft, with the larger diameter used for internal wing frame bracing. For optimum strength, use cable thimbles at the attachment points and use appropriate swages and a swaging tool to secure the thimbles. The swages are the small items in the photo of the spool of cable. Tools are priced from under US$20 for the small hand held, wrench compressed  version, to hundreds of dollars for powered versions. Cable swaging tool and wire rope crimping tool are suitable search terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrbRb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrbRb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wire rope cross section&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastActivityDate="2024-03-26T22:38:27.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13131" CreationDate="2024-03-27T16:39:05.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like there could be many ways of approaching this somewhat complex design problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest thing that comes to mind is having spools that are wound in one direction for the lifting wire(s) and the opposite direction for the tension wires all driven by one crankshaft. Then as one set of spools are taking up the other spools will release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question then is what is the ratio between the lifting and the tension wires as the table moves, is it 1:1 or some other relation? That would depend on the tensegrity design; how many pulleys between the spool and the anchored end. Changing the core size on the spools would be a way to control that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that the lifting wire and its armature is doing the work of four table legs and then some (to maintain the tension on the control wires). That is going to require some extra strength for those components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2024-03-27T16:39:05.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-27T19:54:26.730" Score="1" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the horizon level is aligned with the viewer's eye, how can a vanishing point lie below or above the horizon line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are vanishing points defined in relation to objects? (that can, of course, be below the horizon level)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19309" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T15:57:53.750" Title="Linear Perspective: Vanishing Point Below Horizon Line" Tags="|linear-perspective|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-28T13:26:42.270" Score="2" ViewCount="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experimented with varnishing or sealing gouache artworks on coasters? I'm concerned that since gouache is a rewettable medium, it might smudge and spread when in use. Additionally, I worry that applying varnish could pick up some of the paint with the brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19311" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T21:56:08.053" Title="How to varnish a gouache painting on a wooden coaster?" Tags="|painting|gouache|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13134" CreationDate="2024-03-28T15:57:53.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vanishing point will be on the eye level along with the horizon line for lines that are parallel to the ground plane. If an object has lines that are not parallel to that plane they will converge to a point off the horizon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if the ground in the distance is for example a hill or mountain or some other incline then the horizontal lines for a building nearby will converge below the horizon because the horizon is higher than your eye level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T15:57:53.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13135" CreationDate="2024-03-28T17:03:42.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a &lt;strong&gt;spray-on varnish&lt;/strong&gt; and circumvent the problem altogether.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Make sure to select a varnish intended for gouache, and let the coasters dry lying level to prevent any buildup from smudging the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's noteworthy as well is that varnishing gouache can dramatically alter the appearance of your work, as the varnish will deepen colours and increase the contrast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T17:03:42.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13135" CreationDate="2024-03-28T21:46:11.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditional gouache is one of the more fragile mediums out there. It is unlikely it will preserve well when trying to seal it against repeated soakings as with coasters even using a varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using gouache for its solidly opaque, highly saturated and even matte finish any clear coat on top of the paint will change how it behaves optically and you will lose that effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is however &lt;strong&gt;acrylic gouache&lt;/strong&gt; which gives the same look as traditional gouache but is waterproof like regular acrylic paint. So it will be highly water resistant and not likely to bleed or change optically when adding a top layer like a clear coat of matte medium and/or varnish for protection. It does handle a little differently than traditional gouache in that it may dry faster and not be rewettable. Also watch out for it drying on the brush since you cannot dissolve it out of the bristles once it is dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the final coat needs to be matte as well since a gloss finish will change how the pigmented surface interacts with light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="416" LastEditorUserId="416" LastEditDate="2024-03-28T21:56:08.053" LastActivityDate="2024-03-28T21:56:08.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-29T10:35:43.457" Score="1" ViewCount="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to help my daughter with a school project. The topic is space. She would like to use a black trifold poster board to present her project on but is trying to figure out how to create a shimmery/glitter effect all over the board. She wants it to resemble a starry night. Any suggestions on how to create this effect on a trifold poster board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19318" LastEditorUserId="352" LastEditDate="2024-04-03T15:54:18.420" LastActivityDate="2024-04-03T15:54:18.420" Title="Glitter trifold poster board" Tags="|tool-selection|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2024-04-04T04:39:07.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2024-03-30T03:41:27.567" Score="4" ViewCount="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost my crochet hook . Size 3.5 mm . If I switch to a size 3mm will it make a huge different in my afghan ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19319" LastActivityDate="2024-03-30T08:09:52.100" Title="Crochet hook size switch mid project" Tags="|crocheting|crochet-hooks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13140" CreationDate="2024-03-30T08:09:52.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; difference, but certainly a &lt;em&gt;noticable&lt;/em&gt; difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size difference between a 3 and 3,5 hook is just half a millimeter. The size difference in the stitches you make with both hooks may be even smaller than that, but I think it's unlikely that you manage to make your stitches exactly the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's assume each stitch gets only 0.1 mm smaller after switching to a smaller hook. If you crochet 50 stitches over the width of your afghan, you lose 5 cm (2 inches) in width. If you crochet 100 stitches over the entire width, you lose 10 cm (4 inches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can compensate by deliberately making your stitches bigger. But I still think that you will get a visible line at the part where you switched hook size because your tension will change in that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2024-03-30T08:09:52.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
</posts>